Pattern of the Month

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, k1 st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.