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December 2016

Cosy Pram Cover - crochet

CrochetCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to crochet a simple cover if you can get over the lurid sixties colour schemes. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations which would be less traumatic for a baby].

Instructions

The crochet blanket is made up of a number of large motifs sewn together and then joined with smaller motifs which are integrated as you work.

Large Motif (make 24)

Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and DK in Light colour (L) make 6ch loosely and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 3 chain, work 23tr into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch. [24 sts].
Break L and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M work 5ch, 1tr in same stitch as slip stitch; 1ch, * miss 2 stitches, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * 6 times more; miss 2ch, and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 5ch.
Break M and join in Dark colour (D).
3rd round: In D work a slip stitch into first 2ch space, 3ch, (1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in same 2ch space; * 1dc in next 1ch space, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 2ch space; repeat from * 6 times more; 1dc into last 1ch space, and join with a slip stitch into top of 3ch, slip stitch into next tr.
Break D and rejoin in L.
4th round: In L work a slip stitch in first 2ch space, 3ch, (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same 2ch space; 1dc into next dc, * (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next 2ch space; 1dc in next dc; repeat from * 6 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch.
Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

To Make Up

Using L, join motifs by stitching centre stitches of each motif together, and making 6 rows of 4 motifs.
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant by centre stitches, I think they must mean the centre stitches of the last round. Clearly the motifs are attached at the sides as in the picture]

Work 15 small motifs to fill the spaces formed by the larger motifs and join together as follows:

Small Motif (make 15 - joining as you work)

The smaller motifs are worked in 4 ply.
Using No 9 (3½mm) hook and 4ply in Dark (D) make 8 chain loosely and join with a slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring.

1st round: 6 chain, work (1tr, 3ch) 7 times into the ring and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 6 ch.
Break D and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M slip stitch in first space; 3ch, 2tr, in same space; (slip stitch inserting hook from right side of large motif into centre treble of 3tr on large motif; 3tr in next chain space of small motif) 7 times; insert hook into centre treble of last petal, and at the same time insert hook into top of 3ch, joining with a slip stitch.
[Editor's note: This sounds more complex than it is - you need to be working it to understand. All you are doing is joining the small motif in between the larger ones as you work round 2]
Fasten off.

This completes the motif - work the other 14 in the same way.

Finishing

With right side facing, Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and M in DK, work 1 round of dc around scalloped edge of cover.
Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Cut the lining material to fit around the scalloped edges. Turn in the edges and catch down all around the scallops inside the dc border.

Materials

Double Knitting: 2 x 50g balls of Light, and 1 each of Medium and Dark.

4ply: 1 x 25g in each of Medium and Dark.

One No 7 (4½mm) and one No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

½ yard of washable lining material to match the dark colour.

Tension

Each motif is intended to measure 4½ inches.

Size matters

18 x 27 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.

Stylecraft have a good range of acrylics with equivalent colours available in DK and 4ply.


CrochetIsEasy.jpg

Cosy Pram Cover - knitted

KnittedCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to knit a simple cover if you can get over the dramatic sixties colour scheme. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations].

Instructions

The pattern uses DK weight yarn with 2 strands held together.

Motif (make 12)

Using main shade (M) cast on 96 stitches and work 11 rows in garter stitch (every row knit but slip the first stitch of every row).

Next row: Sl1, k7, slip these 8 stitches on to a thread; k4, increase in the next stitch, (k9, increase in next stitch) 7 times; k5; slip the next 8 stitches on to a thread (88 sts).

Joining in contrast (C) as required and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: Sl1, k2C, * k4M, k2C, repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
2nd row: Sl1, k2C; yft, * p4M, k2C, yft; repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
3rd row: In M sl1, knit to end.
4th row: In M sl1, purl to last stitch, k1.
5th row: Sl1, k3M, * k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end.
6th row: Sl1, p3M, * k2C, yft, p4M; repeat from * to last 6 stitches;
k2C, yft, p3M, kl M.
7th and 8th rows: As 3rd and 4th rows.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until main part measures approximately 26½ inches ending with a 2nd pattern row.
Break off contrast C.
Next row: K4, k2tog, (k9, k2tog) 7 times; k5. (80 sts)
Break off M. and slip stitches on to a length of yarn.

Borders and finishing

With wrong side facing, rejoin M to the 8 border stitches on left side and work in garter stitch until Border measures 26 inches from cast-on edge, ending with wrong side facing.
Break M and slip stitches on to a thread.
Sew in position, using a flat seam, slightly stretching it to fit edge of
main part.
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining border stitches and complete to correspond with first Border, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Sl1, k7, then on to same needle knit across stitches of main
part and first Border (96 sts).
Work 10 rows in garter stitch across all stitches.
Cast off evenly.

Sew remaining Border in position.
Pin out to measurements.
Press lightly on wrong side.

Materials

6 x 50g balls double knitting in main shade (M) and 2 in contrast (C).

Two No 4 (6mm) needles

Tension

18sts x 20 rows to 4 inches over pattern. [Yarn is used double throughout].

Size matters

22 x 27½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.
You could also consider knitting a single strand in a heavier weight yarn - Aran, worsted, even chunky. However you would need to knit a tension square in the pattern stitches.

November 2016

Elegance for winter cocktails

BeadedTop.jpg

I admit this is clearly styled for summer but I always thought to make it in black with gold beads and perhaps a gold metallic yarn for the collar.
Either way it's a lovely flattering top in fine yarn.

This pattern offers you the option of beads - which are threaded on in advance and then knitted in - or "trimmmed with embroidery". I found a good alternative to pre-threading beads which is hooking them, where you can work them in as you go. I wrote about this technique in an earlier entry, and repeat the instructions here at the end of these pattern instructions.
I think beads would be lovely for a winter version and perhaps embroidery for summer.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. Instructions in square brackets also apply to both sizes.
For beaded version the instructions are the same, but to form the
pattern work "bead over next stitch" instead of p1 in the pattern
rows. The beads are knitted in on the right side of the work and to
work a "bead over next stitch" bring wool to front of work, push a
bead up wool close to front of work, slip 1 purlways, wool back; the
bead is now lying on top of the slipped stitch.

To thread beads on to the wool, make a needle with a 4-inch length of fuse wire by folding up 1½ inches of wire into a loop, slip the end of the wool through the loop, then twist the wire very tightly to form a smooth needle with the wool fixed firmly at the end.

[Editor's note: I wrote about threading beads in a previous article - go to this link to see some pictures.]

Back

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and pink wool, cast on 107 (113) stitches and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. With right side facing, change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

For bead version: break wool and thread 126 beads.

1st - 6th rows: Work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
7th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k5, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k29; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
8th row: Purl.
9th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k6, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k26; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
10th row: Purl.
11th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k7, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1]
3 times, k22; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
12th row: Purl.
13th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k8, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k21; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
14th row: Purl.
15th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k 9, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k14, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
16th row: Purl.
17th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
18th row: Purl.
19th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k11, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
20th row: Purl.
21st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k14, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k4, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k7; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
22nd row: Purl.
23rd (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k3, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k8; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
24th row: Purl.
25th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k20, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
26th row: Purl.
27th (pattern) row: k1 (4),* k19, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch," k1] 3 times, k10; repeat from * to last 1(4) stitches, k1 (4).
28th row: Purl.
29th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k18, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k13; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
30th row: Purl.
31st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k17; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
32nd row: Purl.
33rd - 38th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.
39th - 44th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.

For bead version, break wool and thread 126 beads.

45th - 70th rows: As 7th to 32nd rows but reverse, motif by reading pattern rows (odd rows) backwards,for example 45th (7th) row will read:
45th row: k1 (4), * k29, p1 or "bead over next stitch" k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).

71st - 76th rows: As 1st to 6th rows.

These 76 rows form pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until there are 125 (131) stitches, taking increased stitches into stocking stitch a few rows straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.
**

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 97 (99) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until 5 lines of motifs have been done, then continue in stocking-stitch until back measures 22½ inches down centre. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 37 (39) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. Continue in pattern shaping armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and following alternate row. [107 (113) sts]
Purl 1 row.

Now shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, pattern 45 (48), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.
Next row:
Purl.
Next row: k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge, on the following 3 (5) alternate rows, then keep this edge straight, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th row until 30 stitches remain.

Work straight in stocking-stitch until front matches back.

With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, shaping shoulder by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows (the armhole edge).
With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 13, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: Purl.
Next row:
k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Collar

Join shoulder seams. With No 11 needles and white (contrast) wool, cast on 31 (33) stitches.
1st row:* k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: Rib 1, rib2tog, rib to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, rib 1.
3rd row: Rib.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits comfortably all round neck. Cast off in rib; join short sides.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. With No. 11 needles, right side facing and pink wool, pick up and knit 110 (110) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Embroidered Jumper: With white wool embroider motifs in the pattern by working 6 diagonal lines of running stitches through the purl stitches of each motif all over back and front (see photo).

Join side seams.
Sew collar in position all round neck.
Press all seams and embroidery lightly.

Materials

7 (7) ozs Fingering 4 ply in "Radiant Pink", and 1 (l) oz in white.
For bead version:
white knit beads.

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-35 (36-37) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

increase in next stitch: knit into the front and back of the stitch.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is a standard Patons 4 ply yarn. 1oz is about 28g, so 7oz is 4 50g balls; however I cannot offer any information on the yardage.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.


October 2016

Little Lumber Jacket

LittleLumberJacket.jpg

A delightful little child's jacket from the 1950s. Beryl knitted it for her grandson and it looks lovely on him - see pictures at the end. [She also gives useful feedback on the sizing].

Instructions:

Two sizes are given - see notes on sizing with the photos at the end. Larger size is shown in brackets, and where only one number is shown it applies to both sizes.

Pocket Flaps (make 2)

Using No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 13 stitches.

1st row: Purl.
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K2, (p1, k1) twice, wf, k2tog, (p1, k1) twice, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Break off wool and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1. .
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Work these two rows 8[9] times more, increasing one stitch the beginning of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}.

††
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, knitting the first stitch on every row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 8½[10] inches from the beginning, finishing at the side edge.

Shape armhole by casting off 3[3] stitches the the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch the the armhole edge on every row until 26[28] stitches remain.
††

Work 3[4] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the side edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P5[7]; cast off 13, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P8[8]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.

††
Keeping yoke pattern correct as on last 6 rows,
[Editor's Note: the 1st row in the 6 row pattern is always purl all stitches.]
continue until work measures 12[14] inches from the beginning, finishing at the front edge.

Keeping yoke pattern correct, shape neck by casting off 5[6] stitches at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 17[18] stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5[]inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, finishing at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8[9] stitches, pattern to end.
2nd row: Pattern across all stitches.
Cast off.

Left Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times, increasing one stitch the end of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}

Work as for Right Front from †† to ††.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the front edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P8[8]; cast off 13, purl to end.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P5[7]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Complete as for right Front working from ††to end.

Back:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 65[71] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures same as fronts up to the armhole shaping, finishing at the end of a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every row until 51[55] stitches remain.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the end of a purl row.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): Purl.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Continue in yoke pattern as on these 6 rows until work measures same as fronts up to shoulder shaping.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8[9] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 9[9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off.

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 32[34] stitches and

Work 2¼[] inches in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 1[2], (increase in next stitch, rib 3) 7 times; increase in next stitch, rib to end. {40[42] sts}.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 10th[10th] row until there are 50[54] stitches.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 10½[12] inches from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 14[16] stitches remain.

Cast off.

Collar:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 85[89] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1..
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K1, k2togtbl, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, k2tog, k1.
4th row: K1, p1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
5th rows: K1, k2togtbl, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k2tog, k1.

Work rows 2-5 inclusive 3 times more, then the 2nd row once.

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Pockets (make 2):

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch for 2½[] inches.
Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Using back stitch, join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Stitch Pockets into position on wrong side, stitching top of Pockets along inside of Pocket Flaps.
Stitch on Collar.
Attach buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
Stitch zip into position.
Press all seams.

Materials

7 [9] oz Double Knitting Yarn.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

12[14] inch open ended zip.
Two buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 23½[25½] inch chest.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½[15½] inches.
Sleeve seam: 10½[12] inches.

Abbreviations:

yf: yarn forward; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 sts together through back loops (aka "ssk" - slip slip knit, - slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit them together).
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Moorland, Double Quick, or Totem DK.
Easily to find modern double knitting yarns but you will need to review the quantities.
Beryl used 2½ x 50g balls of Sirdar Snuggly - a synthetic yarn with a very good yardage (165m per ball). The original pure wools required 4-5 x 50g balls (which is consistent with my own "rule of thumb" of around 100 yards per 50g ball for pure wools).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LittleLumberJacket3.jpg

And here is a picture of the cardigan knitted by Beryl in a modern yarn: 2½ balls of Sirdar Snuggly Double Knitting:

LittleLumberJacket2.jpg

Beryl had some notes on the sizing. The original pattern was for 4-7 year olds; her grandson was only 20 months old and she left the length as it was written - she says: "he is a chunky littel chap" and previous feedback for the Little Raglan Reefer suggested the lengths of these old patterns works up a bit short for modern taste. The sleeves could have been shortened (for a 20 month old) as you can see the cuffs are turned back. Beryl found the zip a challenge and ended up using the sewing machine.
Her conclusion is that if the knitter does the length longer and leaves the sleeves as they are it would be more suitable for a 2-3 year old.

Beryl said: "I love the jacket on my grandson and I have recently found a picture of my brother wearing the same cardigan that my Mum made for him!"

Doug.jpg

[And needless to say this one is my personal favourite - how is it that all our brothers from that era have such wonderful cheeky grins? All of them "Just William".]

September 2016

Plaid Pullover

PlaidSlipover.jpg

Pullover in a range of sizes, with an interesting plaid effect made by slipping stitches.
Joy first knitted it 35 years ago for her husband and he liked it so much he was always asking her to redo it. It took a while but she finally managed it - see her satisfied hubby at the end....

Instructions:

The instructions are given in 9 sizes with smallest size given first and the larger sizes in brackets.

Back


Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting yarn cast on 93 [99; 105; 111; 115; 121; 127; 133; 137] stitches.

1st row (right side): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end..
Repeat these rows 9 times more.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and commence pattern.

1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th sizes only

1st row: Purl
2nd row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, knit to end.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, purl to end.
4th row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, knit to end.
5th row: Purl 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches; [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, purl to end.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

3rd and 7th sizes only
(Note: same instructions for both sizes)

1st row: Purl
2nd row: K4, purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k7, * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, purl next stitch, winding yarn 3 times round needle, k4.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p4,yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p7, * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p4.
4th row: Knit 4, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k7 * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k4.
5th row: Purl 4, yb, slip l purlwise, p7 * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; yb, slip l purlwise, p4.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

All sizes

Continue in pattern ...

....until work measures 14 [14½; 14½; 15; 15; 15½; 15½; 16; 16] inches from the beginning , ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 69 [75; 79; 83; 87; 91; 95; 99; 101] stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 8¼ [; ; 9; ; ; ; 10; 10¼] inches from the commencement of the armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as given for back from to until work measures 8 rows less than the Back to armhole shapings ending with a wrong side row.

Shape First side of neck
Next row (right side facing): Pattern , 43 [46; 49; 52; 54; 57; 60; 63; 65], p2tog, p1. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Pattern to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to last 9 stitches, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern to end.

††
Continue to decrease in this way at the neck edge on every 4th row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until there are 29 [32; 34; 35; 37; 39; 41; 43; 43] stitches remaining.
Keeping side edge straight, decrease at neck edge as before until 20 [22; 23; 25; 26; 28; 29; 30; 30] stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as the Back to shoulder shaping, ending at the side edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 9; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches.
††

Return to the stitches on the spare needle on the other half of the front. Slip the centre stitch onto a safety pin.

Shape second side of neck:
Next row: Joining in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, p1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row:P1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: Pattern 7, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 7, work 2 together, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.

Complete to match the first side, working from †† to ††.

Neckband

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches down left side of neck, knit centre from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread or stitch marker), pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches of back neck, increasing into last stitch: 167 [173; 179; 183; 189; 193; 199; 205; 211] stitches.

1st row: Work in k1/p1 rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch; slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at back of work, place stitch on right hand needle back onto
left hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle and p3tog; p1/k1 rib to end.
2nd row: Rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at front of work, slip next stitch onto right hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle, then place both stitches on right hand needle back onto left hand needle and k3tog; rib to end.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more, then the first row once.
Cast off in rib, decreasing on this row as before.

Armbands

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join left shoulder seam and Neckband. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 90 [94; 96; 100; 102; 104; 108; 110; 112] stitches evenly along armhole edge.
Work 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and steam very gently, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Using matching yarn, join side seams and armbands.

Materials

Yarn A - bouclé double knitting: 3 [3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5; 5; 5] x 50g balls
Yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting: 3 [3; 3; 3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5] x 50g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit: 32 [34; 36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48] inches.

Chest actual: 34 [36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48; 50] inches.

Length: 23-27 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

sl: slip

yb: yarn back

A word on the wool

You can see in the picture this is knitted in two different colours and textures of double knitting yarn.

Finding a substitute will not be impossible as DK yarns are fairly standard, though it might be trickier to find the bouclé.

The example shown, used Stylecraft double knitting yarn in just the one texture (no bouclé). It took 125g of the maroon colour and just under 100g of the grey (or silver).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PlaidSlipoverU.jpg

Joy's DH - doesn't he look pleased? (and only a little self-conscious...)

August 2016

Bags for Beach or Festivals

FestivalBagII.jpg

Summer season bags in crochet this time - for beach - or for festivals if you want the full seventies vibe. Easy to make using a single basic granny square motif.

Instructions.

The bags are made up by joining a number of the same basic "granny square" motif. If you are feeling adventurous you could make up your own version of the squares to approximately the same size or you could use a variety of colours (in the "granny square" tradition) to use up wool oddments.

Motif

With Gold (G) make 4 ch, join into ring with slip stitch (ss).

1st round: in G, 3 ch, 11 tr into ring. [12 sts]
2nd round: in Red (R), join with Ss to top of ch, (3 ch, 2 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr), all in next stitch, miss 2 stitches, * (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr,) all in next stitch, miss 2 stitches, repeat from * 3 times; join with Ss to top of ch
3rd round: in Cream (C), 3 ch, 2 tr, in space between last tr and ch of previous round, (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) all in next ch sp, * 3 tr in SP between 2 groups, (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) all in next ch SP, repeat from * 3 times; join with Ss to top of ch
Fasten off.


Handbag

Make 10 motifs.
Join motifs as follows: wrong sides to inside, place 2 motifs together.
With C, make loop round hook (as if starting a chain), insert hook through corner ch SP of each motif and draw loop through, then draw
loop through loop on hook (this fastens the yarn to the work). Insert hook through both loops of next stitch of each motif and draw loop through, (this joins the motifs together), and draw the loop through
loop on hook, (this completes the join - you are essentially slip stitching the motifs together).
Continue in this way, ending at ch SP at opposite corner.
Fasten off.

Join remaining motifs in the same way, thus having 5 strips made of 2 motifs each

Now make a square by joining 2 strips together using the slip stitch technique as before. Make another square the same.
You now have two squares made up of 4 motifs and one oblong made up of 2 motifs.

Handbag - main part

[Editor's note: In this section you make diagonal edgings for each side of the square sections of the bag. You end up with another square with the original 4 motifs set "on point" as you can see in the photo.]

With right side facing and Gold (G), join yarn to corner ch SP of one of the squares, and work along first side edge as follows :
1st row: in G, 3 ch, 2 tr in corner ch SP, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr in centre of joining row, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr in corner ch SP [7 groups].
Turn, 1 Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.

2nd row: in Red (R), 3 ch, 2 tr in 1st SP between first 2 groups, 3 tr in
each following SP [6 groups].
Turn, 1 Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.

3rd row: in Cream (C), as 2nd row [5 groups].

Alternating colours as before, work 4 more rows, thus ending 3 ch 2 tr in G worked in SP between 2 groups. [1 group].
Fasten off.

Joining yarn to corner ch SP already used, work along 2nd and 3rd sides of square in the same way, then work along 4th side starting
and ending with corner ch SP already used.

Work the other main part in the same way on the second 4-motif square.

Handbag - flap

[Editor's note: At this point you might think "flap" is an instruction - but it isn't - it' just the description of the piece you are making next. The instruction is "just keep calm and carry on". Crochet is always more difficult to read from a pattern than it is to actually do it.]

With right side facing and G, join yarn to corner ch SP at long side of remaining oblong strip and work as follows:

1st round: in G, 3 ch 2 tr in corner ch SP, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice; 3 tr in centre of joining row; (3 tr in SP between
next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr 1 ch 3 tr in next corner ch SP, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr 1 ch 3 tr in next corner ch SP Continue in this way all round strip, ending 3 tr 1 ch, in 1st corner ch SP again. Join with Ss to top of ch at the beginning of the round.
2nd round: in R, 3 ch 2 tr in corner ch SP, then - as you did in 1st round - 3 tr in each SP between 2 groups, 3 tr 1 ch 3 tr in each corner ch SP, ending 3 tr 1 ch in 1st corner ch SP again. Join with Ss to top
of ch at beginning of round.
3rd round: in C as 2nd round.
Fasten off.

Handbag - gusset

With G, make 10 ch

1st row: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each following ch
Turn with 3 ch.
2nd row: miss 1st stitch, 1 tr in each following stitch Turn with 3 ch
[ 8 stitches, including turning ch of previous row which counts as 1 tr].

Repeat 2nd row until strip measures 24 inches (61 cm).
Fasten off.

Handbag - to make up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side.
Cut lining as for 2 squares and gusset, allowing ½ inch (1 cm) extra all round for turnings.
Pin gusset round 3 sides of each square; sew in position by stitching tip of each group of main part to edges of gusset .
Sew flap to remaining side of 1 square.
Using G, work 1 row dc, along 3 free sides of flap, working 3 dc in each corner and making a 10 ch loop at each end of long side approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in from the edge - these are the button loops (see photo).

Make twisted cord from 18 strands of remaining yarn, each strand 100 inches (254 cm) long (or however long you want the shoulder strap to be), and attach to top of gusset at each side of bag.

Join lining and place inside bag with seams to inside, turn in raw edges at top and inside flap, and slip hem neatly in position.

Sew on buttons.


Beach bag

Make 55 motifs.
Joining motifs as for handbag, making 11 strips of 5 motifs each

Beach bag - back

Join 6 strips together, thus having an oblong.

Point: With right side facing and using G, join yarn to corner ch SP of oblong and work along 1 short edge as follows:

1st row: in G, 3 ch 2 tr in corner ch SP, * (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr in centre of joining row; repeat from * ending 3 tr in corner ch SP [16 groups].
Turn, Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.
2nd row: in R, 3 ch 2 tr in SP, between first 2 groups, 3 tr in each following SP [15 groups].
Turn, Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.
3rd row: in C , as 2nd row [14 groups].

Alternating colours as before, work 13 more rows, thus ending 3 ch 2 tr in G, worked in SP between 2 groups. [1 group].
Fasten off.

Beach bag - flap

Working along opposite edge of oblong, work as for point.
In make a 10 ch loop into centre of last group (button loop).
Fasten off.

Beach bag - front

Join 5 strips together, thus making a square.
Work as for back, making one point for bottom of bag and omitting flap.

Beach bag - to make up

Press as for handbag.

Cut lining as for front and back, allowing ½ inch (1 cm) extra for turnings.
Place back and front together from points upwards, with wrong sides to inside. Using C, work joining row up one side, then work in
dc up side of extra motif of back.
Join second side in the same way.
Work 1 row dc along upper edge of front.
Fasten off.

Using a flat-stitch seam, join points by catching together tips of each group.

Make twisted cord as for handbag and attach to sides.
Line as for handbag.

Using 18 strands of remaining yarn, each strand 12 inches (30 cm) long, make tassel and attach to point.

Sew on button to match loop.

Materials

The yarn is an Aran or worsted weight in balls of 50g.

Handbag:
1 ball each in three colours: Cream, Lipstick Red, and Harvest Gold.
2 buttons.
½ yard lining fabric.

Beach bag:
4 in Cream, 3 in Lipstick Red and 2 in Harvest Gold.
1 buttons.
1 yard lining fabric.

One No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

Tension

One motif measures approximately
2¾ x 2¾ inches,
(7cm x 7cm)

Size matters

Hand bag:
About 8 inches (20cm) square.

Beach bag:
About 14 inches (36cm) wide and 20 inches (51cm) high.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
Ss: slip stitch
SP: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Capstan - an Aran weight yarn knitting to a tension of 18 sts to 4 inches. No clues as to the yardage but it was a fairly dense pure wool so I would not expect it to have a long yardage.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2016

The Fringe of Fashion

FringedWaistcoat.jpg

Fringes appeared everywhere last year so this may still have a place this summer. The seventies photo is delightful - a sophisticated peasant style making you long for an adventurous getaway to foreign climes - you can feel that heat.
However the editors haven't quite caught up in the ways of modern copy to match...
"... a dashing little crochet vest to wear in many ways."

Instructions.

The pattern is given in one size.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the underarm.

Back and Fronts

Using 2 balls of yarn and working with yarn doubled, make 128 ch

Foundation row: 1 dtr in 6th ch from hook, * miss 1 ch, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch; repeat from * to end.

1st row: 1 dc in 1st stitch, * miss next 3 stitches (that is: 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch), 8 ch, 1 dc in next stitch; repeat from * working last dc in 4th of 5 turning ch, turn with 10 ch (work into 3rd of 4 turning ch here on all following 1st pattern rows).
2nd row: 1 dc in 1st ch loop, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, 4 ch, make long stitch in last dc as follows: (yrh) 4 times, insert hook into last dc and draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through 2 loops on hook) 5 times.
[Editor's note: This long stitch is simpler than it looks - you make it in the same way you would a treble or double treble or triple treble - just start with 5 wraps on the hook as it tells you.]
3rd row: 1 dc in 1st stitch, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, turn with 4 ch.
4th row: 1 dtr in 1st ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in 1st dc, * 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows form pattern.
Repeat them 3 times more, then rows 1 to 3 again.

Divide for armholes as follows:

Next row: 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, (1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc) 6 times, turn.

Continue for right front, shaping armhole and neck as follows :

**
1st row: as 1st pattern row, omitting turning ch.
2nd row: 1 ss in 1st dc, 1 Ss in 3 ch of next ch loop, 1 dc in same ch loop, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: 1 Ss in 1st dc, 1 Ss in first 3 ch of next ch loop, 1 dc in same loop, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, turn with 4 ch.
4th row: as 4th pattern row.
**
Repeat the last 4 rows twice more, after which you have 5 stitches = 4 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr.
Fasten off.

Continue for back as follows:

Leaving 7 stitches unworked, rejoin double yarn to next dc, make 4 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, (1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc.) 12 times, turn.

Work the 4 rows as for right front from ** to ** then repeat these 4 rows twice more: after which you have 29 stitches = 4 ch, 1 dtr, (1 ch, 1 dtr) 13 times.
Fasten off.

Continue for left front as follows:

Leaving 7 stitches unworked, rejoin double yarn to next dc, make 4 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, * 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

To prevent heavy pressing and use of a hot iron, either of which could be injurious to the fabric, light pressing may be suitable as follows:

Block each piece by pinning out round edges and press using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth.

Join shoulder seams.

With double yarn, work 1 row dc along front and neck edges.
Work 1 round dc along armhole edge.

For the front ties: Make two lengths of ch. 20 inches (51 cm) long and sew one to each side of front, level with armhole division.

Fringes: Cut remaining yarn into 12 inch (30 cm) strips and taking 6 strands together each time, knot through lower edge, placing
each fringe in a chain space.

Materials

6 50g balls DK in white with the yarn used double throughout (see A Word on the Wool)

Crochet hook No
5 (5½mm)

Tension

One pattern (4 rows) is 2½ inches (6cm).

Size matters

To fit chest:
34 - 37 inches, (86 - 94 cm);
length from top of shoulders, 21½ (54 cm) without fringes.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space
L: loop
yrh: yarn round
hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Patons marketed two different yarns called Promise in different eras both DK equivalents. This pattern, being crocheted and from the 1970s, is the earlier manifestation - a smooth yarn "with Tricel" sold in 50g balls. [The later yarn marketed in the 1980s was a fluffy acrylic with a good yardage, thus sold in 40g balls].
Potentially any double knitting quality can be used (knitting tension would be about 22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches or 10 cm). However, working with the yarn doubled can be difficult, especially in crochet, so I would be inclined to look for a chunky cotton type yarn to substitute and use it single strand - although the choice may be more limited.

June 2016

Anyone for Tennis?

TennisDress.jpg

This is a knitted dress with crochet insets.....
"... to line up the prettiest back view".

No denying the charm of this dress (and model) though sadly I need them to be a little less revealing these days. But in the words of my 82 year old aunt - at the height of the mini skirt fashion when I was 13 - "well if I had legs like yours I'd bloomin' well show 'em off!".

Instructions.

Special cluster stitch as follows:
[Editor's note: You will probably find this stitch easier to execute when you try it as opposed to how it appears on paper.]

Make Cluster:
(yrh) twice, insert hook in next tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice, * (yrh) twice, insert hook into same tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice *; repeat from * to * twice more, draw a loop through all 5 loops on hook.

Front

Using size 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 156 (164 : 172 : 180) stitches and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until front measures 1½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14) k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11: 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [132 (144 : 152 : 160) stitches ]

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 84 (92 : 100 : 104) stitches remain, ending with a decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only :
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: {k - (11 : 13 : -)}, k2togtbl, knit to last - (13 : 15 : -) stitches, k tog., k - (11 : 13 : -). [84 (90 : 98 : 104) stitches

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until front measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 114 (120 : 128 : 134) stitches, ending with an increase row.
Work 11 rows straight.

Shape armhole and divide for neck:

Next row: cast off 4, k 51 (54 : 58 : 61), k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.

Continue on these 52 (55 : 59 : 62) 52/55/59/62 stitches for the first side as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 37 (40 : 41 : 44) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 25 (26 : 27 : 28) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at neck edge on every alternate row until 21 (22 : 22 : 23) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight.

Now decrease at the neck edge on the next and every following 4th row until 16 stitches remain.

Work straight until armhole measures 7 ( : 8 : ) inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6 stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches, k2tog, knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Left Back

With No 10 needles, cast on 61 (65 : 69 : 73) stitches, and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until back measures 1½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [49 (55 : 59 : 63) sts]

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 25 (29 : 33 : 35) stitches remain, ending with an decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only: Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k. to the last - (11 : 13 : -) stitches, k2tog, k - (11 : 13 : -). 25 (28 : 32 : 35) sts]

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until back measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, ml, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14). Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 35 (38 : 42 : 45) stitches.
Work 3 rows straight.

Continue shaping bodice and at the same time shape back slope as follows:

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row
: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog , knit to end.
Work 1 row straight.

Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog , k. to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.

Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14) [34 (37 : 41 : 44) sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at back slope on the next and every following
3rd row until 30 (33 : 37 : 40) stitches remain.

Continue shaping back slope and shape armhole as follows:

Next row: knit.
Next row: cast off 4, purl to end.

Continue decreasing at back slope on next and every following 3rd row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 14 (17 : 18 : 21) stitches remain.

Now decrease at the armhole edge on every alternate row and continue decreasing at back slope as before until 4 (5 : 6 : 8) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at back slope as before until 2 stitches remain.
Work 2 rows straight.
P2tog and fasten off.

Right Back

Work to correspond with the left back, reversing shapings.
Your 1st decrease row on the skirt will read:
{k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to end.

Your increase row on bodice will read:
k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to end.

Crochet border

With No 11 (3mm) hook, make 340 (356 : 372 : 388) chain.

1st row (right side facing): 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, * 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, *1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 Cl. (CL = cluster - see start of instructions) in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 4 ch, {1 tr in next 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of last 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, {1 ch, 1 tr in next tr} twice, 1 ch; repeat from * ending last repeat, 1 ch, 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

This completes lower edge border, do not break yarn.

Sewing in position as you go along, work left back border as follows:

1st row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, turn.
2nd row:: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Rows 2 to 6 inclusive, form border pattern.

Continue in pattern until border fits up left back edge to top of slope, when slightly stretched.
Then continue in crochet pattern beyond the end of the knitted piece until back matches front at armhole edge (see photo), ending with 2nd, 4th or 5th pattern row.
Fasten off.

Work right back border as follows:

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to 9th stitch in from left-hand edge of bottom border and make 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Finish to correspond with left border.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder and side seams, then join border to lower edge.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, work 1 round dc all round armhole.

Work picot edging as follows:
Next round: * 1 dc in next 3 dc, {ss, 4 ch, Ss} in next dc; repeat from * all round armhole, join with Ss in first dc Fasten off.

Neck, Back and Lower Edge Border: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, start at left back lower edge and work 1 row dc up
left back, all round neck, down right back and along lower edge, increasing and decreasing to ease round corners as required.
Join with Ss in first dc.

Next round: Work in dc to a point level with the start of the back slope shaping, then work picot edging up to shoulder, all round neck and down right back to point level with the start of back slope shaping.

Then finish by working in dc to lower edge, working 16 button loops.
First mark the position of the buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond - the first is to come over next 2 stitches, and the 16th to come 2 inches above lower edge, and the remainder spaced evenly.

To make a button loop: Work 3 ch, miss 2 dc.

Now work picot edging along lower edge, join with Ss in first dc.
Fasten off.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 (5 : 6 : 6) x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe in white.

Pair No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Crochet hooks Nos
11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm) needles.

16 buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch.
Crochet Border: 2 pattern repeats measure 4¼ inches in width.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches, 81 (86 : 91 : 97) cm;
length from top of shoulders, 29 (29½ : 30 : 30½) inches, 74 (75 : 76 : 77) cm.

Abbreviations:

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

ch: chain
CL: make cluster (see instructions)
tr: treble crochet
dc: double crochet
yrh: double crochet
SP: space
Ss: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Limelight 100% acrylic - knits as 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


This is styled reminiscent of the astonishingly popular seventies photo depicting the back view of a female tennis player (or more accurately "a student in tennis whites").

FionaButler.jpg

And not forgetting, the year after this photo was taken, we were all inspired by British tennis as Virginia Wade won the 1977 ladies singles at Wimbledon (without having to reveal her bottom).

WadeWins.jpg

I was unable to watch the match as I was working during my student summer break - but in the evening at Victoria railway station - where they had only just installed the new electronic announcement boards - I read "Wade wins Wimbledon 4-6, 6-3, 6-1" demonstrating the sense of elation felt by all since this was a pretty unusual departure from the norm for good old British Rail at that time...

May 2016

Diamond Marine Top

DiamondMarine.jpg

An irresistible summer top in clean cut navy an white.
As well as the understated pattern of navy diamonds, there is a subtle vertical line of patterning within the white body of the top, which draws the eye to emphasise the flattering shape.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

**
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and blue yarn (B), cast on 120 (124 : 128) stitches and work 10 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row.

Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: This row forms a ridge for the hem line.]

Work a further 9 rows in stocking stitch starting with a purl row, increasing 2 (6 : 10) stitches evenly across last row.
[122 (130 : 138) sts].

Break B.

With right side facing, change to No 10 needles and yarn W; pattern as follows:

1st row: k14 (18 : 22), * p2, k21; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k14 (18 : 22).
2nd row: p14 (18 : 22), * k2, p21; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p14 (18 : 22).

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight until back measures 4 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 12th row until there are 132 (140 : 148) stitches.
**

Work straight until back measures 14 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows. [120 (126 : 132) sts].
Continue straight until back 20½ (20½ : 21) inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 12 rows, then 5 (7 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 38 (40 : 42) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. [132 (140 : 148) sts]
Continue straight until front measures 11½ inches from purl ridge.

Wind off 4 small balls of yarn B. With right side facing, introduce diamond motifs, joining in a separate ball of B for each diamond.

1st row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k10 W, join in B and k1 B, k10 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
2nd row: p19 (23 : 27) W, k2 W, * p9 W, p3 B, p9 W, k2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, p19 (23 : 27) W.
3rd row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k8 W, k5 B, k8 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
4th row: p19 (23 : 27) W, k2 W, * p7 W, p7 B, p7 W, k2 W;
repeat from * 3 times more, p19 (23 : 27) W.
5th row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k6 W, k9 B , k6 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
6th row: as 4th.
7th row: as 3rd.
8th row: as 2nd.
9th row: as 1st.
Break yarn B.
10th-12th rows: in W, keeping 2-row pattern consistent.

Repeat these 12 rows twice more and at the same time when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and and following 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows. [120 (126 : 132) sts].

Now keep armhole edge straight but continue working diamond motifs until 3 complete patterns have been done.
Break B.
Work a few rows straight in W until front measures 16 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 58 (61 : 64), k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on first half of work and shape neck edge by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next 7 rows, then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row until 41 (43 : 45) stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 5 alternate rows.

Next row: in pattern, cast off remaining 5 (7 : 9) stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, k2tog, pattern to end, and finish to correspond with first side.

Collar

With No 10 needles and yarn B, cast on 179 (181 : 189) stitches.

Next row: k35, knit twice in the next stitch, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k101 (103 : 111), knit twice in the next stitch,, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k35.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k36, knit twice in the next stitch, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k103/(105 : 113), knit twice in the next stitch, k2,
knit twice in the next stitch, k36.
Next row:
purl.
Continue increasing 4 stitches thus on the next and following alternate row. [195(197 : 205) sts]
Next row: knit. [This last row forms ridge for hemline.

Next row: k38, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k107(109 : 117), k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k38.
Next row:
purl.
Next row:
k37, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k105(107 : 115), k2tog, k2, k2, k2tog tbl, k37.
Next row:
purl.
Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and following alternate row. [179 (181 : 189) sts]
Next row:
purl.
Break yarn B.

With right side facing, change to W and continue as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k32, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k99 (101 : 109), k2tog, k2, k2togtbl, k32, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, k30, k2tog, k2, k2togtbl,
k97 (99 : 107) , k2tog, k2, k2togtbl, k30, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Continue decreasing 6 stitches thus on the next and every alternate row until 77 (79 : 87) stitches remain.
Next row:
purl.
Next row:
k2tog , k2, k2togtbl, knit to the last 6 stitches, k2tog , k2, k2tog tbl.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k4tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, k4tog.
Next row:
purl.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Join shoulder seams.
Armhole Facings: With No 12 needles and yarn W, right side facing, pick up and k108 (108 : 116) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib using a bigger needle.
Join side seams.

Turn under the 9 rows of stocking stitch to wrong side up to the purl hem line all round the lower edge and slip-hem in position.
Turn under 6 rows of ribbing to wrong side all round armhole and slip-hem in position.
Join blue border on collar neatly at centre front, then turn under 7 rows of stocking stitch up to the purl ridge and slip-hem lightly on wrong side. Press hem.
Sew collar neatly in position.

Press all seams and hems.

Materials

7 (8 : 8) ozs 4 ply crepe in White (W), and 2 oz in Marine Blue (B).

A pair each Nos 12 (2¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

29sts x 37 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36 : 37-38) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 21½ (21½ : 22) inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is a standard Patons Cameo Crepe 4 ply yarn. 1oz is about 28g, so 7oz is 4 50g balls; however I cannot offer any information on the yardage.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2016

Seafarers' Sweaters

This has to be a favourite for me, combining a boating theme with navy and white.
It is a pattern from the seventies but was quite a new idea - a forerunner of those drop shoulders and cowl neck designs which were so ubiquitous in the eighties - and seemingly popular now.

Instructions.

Instructions for six sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in two colours (dark and light) - Navy is represented by D (dark) and Cream represented by L (light).

Back

With No 9 needles and yarn D, cast on 84 (92 : 97 : 100 : 108 : 112) stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
2nd row:
k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows until rib measures 3 inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 5 needles and knit 1 row, increasing 1 stitch at centre:. [85 (93 : 97 : 101 : 109 : 113) sts]

Join in yarn L, and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: right side facing, in L, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4), sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, * k7, sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4).
2nd row: in L, knit.
3rd row: in D, k 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, * k9, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches, k7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5).
4th row: in D, knit.
5th-16th row: as 1st-4th rows worked 3 times.

17th row: in L, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k7, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, k 7 ; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches , sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
18th row: : in L, knit.
19th row: in D, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k9, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
20th row: in D, knit.
21st-32nd rows: as 17th-20th rows worked 3 times.

These 32 rows form pattern. Repeat them until back measures 15 (15 : 15 : 16 : 16 : 16) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [75 (83 : 87 : 91 : 99 : 103) sts].

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until back measures 23 (23 : 24 : 25 : 26 : 26) inches, ending with right side facing

Shape shoulders by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 51 (59 : 63 : 67 : 75 : 79) stitches remain.
Cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 5 (5 : 4 : 6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Slip the remaining 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back to start of armhole shapings.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33), slip these stitches on a spare needle, cast off 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches, pattern to end.

Continue on these last 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33) stitches for the first side and work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by decreasing 1 stitch at end of next row, then at the same edge on every row until 11 (13 : 14 : 16 : 19 : 21) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, then cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin appropriate yarn colour to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 9 needles and D, cast on 40 (40 : 44 : 44 : 48 : 48) stitches and work 3 inches in rib as for back, ending with wrong side facing.

Change to No 5 needles.
Next row: k2, m1, {k9 (9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 11), m1) 4 times, k2. [45 (45 : 49 : 49 : 53 : 53) sts].

Join in L and pattern 4 rows as for 2nd (2nd : 3rd : 3rd : 4th : 4th), size of back.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73 : 81 : 81 : 89 : 89) stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 17½ (17½ : 18½ : 19 : 20 : 20) inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 83 (83 : 91 : 91 : 99 : 99) stitches. Break L.

Change to No 9 needles.
Next row: in D, knit, increasing 5 stitches evenly across row. [88 (88 : 96 : 96 : 104 : 104) sts].

Work 7 rows rib as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side following instructions on the ball band and omitting ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar:

With right side facing, using the set of four (or circular) No 9 needles and D, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) from back decreasing 1 stitch at centre, then pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches down left side of neck. [128 (132 : 144 : 144 : 156 : 156) sts].

Divide stitches evenly on 3 needles to facilitate working.
Work backwards and forwards, starting with 2nd row, and rib 42 (48 : 52 : 52 : 56 : 56) rows as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew short edges of collar in position to cast-off stitches on front, overlapping right side on to left for Her sweater and left on to right for His.

Join side seams and sleeve seams up to rib.
Join side edge of rib to cast-off stitches at start of armholes on back and front, then sew cast-off edge of rib to armhole edges.
Press seams.

Materials

Aran weight yarn: 10 (11 : 12 : 13 : 14 : 15) 50g balls in Navy and 6 (7 : 7 : 8 : 8 : 9) in Cream.

A pair each of Nos 9 (3¾mm) and 5 (5½mm) needles.
A set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles - or a circular needle.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 19 sts x 36 rows to 4 ins measured over pattern on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches, 86 (91 : 97 : 102 : 107 : 112) cm.
Length from top of shoulders: 25 (25 : 26 : 27 : 28 : 28) inches, 63 (63 : 66 : 69 : 71 : 71) cm.
Length of sleeve at centre: 19½ (19½ : 20½ : 21 : 22 : 22) inches, 49 (49 : 52 : 53 : 56 : 56) cm.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch purlwise with yarn at back.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Capstan - an Aran weight yarn knitting to a tension of 18 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch. No clues as to the yardage but it was a fairly dense pure wool so I would not expect it to have a long yardage

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2016

Duck Slippers for Easter

DucksSlippers.jpg

Cute little slippers with ducklings, or kittens.
Easy and quick to knit, with their very effective little pom-pom heads.
[I'm guessing that with a little adaptation you could close in the top of the slippers and stuff them to make tiny duckling toys - if you are feeling adventurous....?!]

Instructions

There are two sizes with instructions for the second size given in brackets.

Both versions:

Using either yellow (for duckling) or white (for kitten) and No 9 needles, cast on 20 (26) stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): sl1, k8(11), p2, k9(12)
2nd row: sl1, k9(12), m2 (1), k10(13)
3rd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k2(1), p1, k9(12)
4th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k2(1), m1, k10(13)
5th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k4(3), p1, k9(12)
6th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k4(3), m1, k10(13)
7th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k6(5), p1, k9(12)
8th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k6(5), m1, k10(13)
9th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(7), p1, k9(12). [28(33) sts]

2nd size only
10th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(7), m1, k-(13)
11th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(9), p1, k-(12)
12th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(9), m1, k-(13)
13th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(11), p1, k-(12). [28(37) sts]

Both sizes - continue as follows:

1st row: sl1, knit to end.
2nd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(11), p1, k9(12).

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2½ (3) inches ending with a 1st row.

Next row: sl1, {m1, k3}, 2(3) times, m1, k2, p1, {k2, m1} 3(4) times, k 2(3), p1, k2, {m1, k3} 2(3) times, m1, k1. [37(49) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 4½ () inches ending with right side facing.

Next row: k1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 1(2) times,rib 5, {k2tog} 1(2) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, k1.

Next row: rib 1(2), {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, p1, {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1(2).

Next row: {k2tog} 3(2) times, {k3tog} 1(3) times, {k2tog} 3 times. [7(8) sts]

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches; draw up tightly and fasten off securely.
Join toe seam along to start of garter stitch. Fold cast-on edge in half and join heel seam.

Completing the Duckling version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining yellow yarn, each 1½ inches in diameter.
[Editor's note: You can see how to make pom-poms in one of my other entries in 2013.]

Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 small circles of blue felt for eyes and sew to each side of the heads, ensuring that the needle passes through the centre of each pom-pom to keep the eyes secure.
Cut 2 beaks of yellow felt, fold in half and oversew along fold. Sew the beak in position to the centre front of the pom-poms, pushing fold of beak in towards centre of pom-pom and sewing in place securely.

Completing the Kitten version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining white yarn each 1½ inches in diameter. Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 triangles of pink felt for ears and sew one to each side on top of the heads with one point upwards, ensuring needle passes through the centre of the pom-pom to make the ears secure.
Cut 4 small ovals of blue felt for eyes and sew in position.
Cut 2 very small triangles of pink felt for nose and sew to centre front of face.
Thread 2 Strands of pink yarn through pompon from side to side of
face for whiskers, and trim. (See photo).

Materials

Duckling version:
1 x 50g ball in yellow.
Kitten version:
1 x 50g ball in white with scraps of pink for whiskers.

Pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Scraps of yellow, pink, and blue felt.

Tension

23sts x 48 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit 5-5½ (6-6½) sock size.

Abbreviations:

sl1: slip a stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.
m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
m2: make 2 stitches by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the front and back of it.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2016

Soft knit sash cardigan

SashCardigan.jpg

Cosy and snug wrap cardigan with a sash belt. I would probably knit it for myself as shown, but it may be more stylish if worn longer or over-sized and perhaps without pockets.

The original yarn was a soft heathered and slightly fluffy Shetland type. I think this would be lovely knitted in the hand-dyed yarn available from the Little Grey Sheep.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 4 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Note: Where a number of stitches is given, this refers to the basic number and does not include those made in the pattern.

[Editor's note: I have copied the note above from the original pattern - it will make more sense when you start knitting as the the number of stitches you end up with at the end of each row increases and decreases as part of the pattern stitch.]

Back

With No 11 needles, cast on 112 (120 : 126 : 132) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15), {ml, rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15)} 6 (5 : 6 : 6) times, ml, rib to end. [119 (126 : 133 : 139) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches , Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
3rd row:as 1st.
4th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
5th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p5, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, p5, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
6th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
7th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p7, k6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, p7, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
8th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
9th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p9, k6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches. p9, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
10th row: k 1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
11th row: as 7th.
12th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
13th row: as 5th.
14th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

These 14 rows form pattern for back.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures approximately 18 inches, ending with 14th pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern shape armholes as follows:

Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), k4 (1 : 7 : 1), * p3, k6 repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), *
Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p4 (1 : 7 : 1), k 1
Next row: k5 (2 : 8 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, p 3, k5 (2 : 8 : 2).

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Cast off remaining 39 (40 : 41 : 43) stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 9 needles, cast on 30 stitches and work 29 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row
Next row: k6, (ml, k6) 4 times. [34 stitches].
Leave these stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**
With No 11 needles, cast on 54 (58 : 62 : 64) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 9 (11 : 15 : 14), {ml, rib 12 (12 : 16 : 12)} 3 (3 : 2 : 3) times, ml, rib to end: [58 (62 : 65 : 68) stitches]
*
*

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k6 (2 : 6 : 6), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches , Tw3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work a further 27 rows, thus ending with 1st pattern row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of first pocket lining, pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22).

Continue straight in pattern until 14 rows less have been worked than on back to start of armhole shaping, thus ending with 14th pattern row.

Shape front edge as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k4 (9 : 4 : 4), pattern to end.
Next row: pattern to last 8 (13 : 8 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p4 (9 : 4 : 4), k1.
Work 2 rows straight.

Decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58 : 61 : 64) stitches remain, keeping stitches at front edge in reverse stocking stitch as placed.

Work 1 row straight.

Next row: k11 (7 : 11 : 11), pattern to end.

Shape armhole as follows:
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p6 repeat from * to last 14 (10 : 14 : 14) stitches, Tw3 p10 (6 : 10 : 10), k1.

Keep armhole edge straight and continue to decrease 1 stitch at front edge on next and every following 4th row until 23 (24 : 25 : 27) stitches remain.

Note: When shaping at front edge do not continue panel pattern nearest this edge if there are insufficient stitches to work another complete pattern; instead take stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * k3, p 6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches, p3, k6 (2 : 6 : 6).
2nd row: k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern work a further 27 rows, thus ending after 1st pattern row, with right side facing for next row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch-holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of second pocket lining, pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12).
Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles, cast on 46 (48 : 50 : 52) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/ p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (7 : 7 : 6), {ml, rib 8 (5 : 4 : 5)} 4 (7 : 9 : 8) times, ml, rib to end. [51 (56 : 60 : 61) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, k3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.
Now continue in pattern as for back. Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row: k6 (4 : 6 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, p3, k6 (4 : 6 : 2).
2nd row: k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 12th (10th : 8th : 2nd), and then every following 4th row until there
are 101 (108 : 114 : 121),stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.
Work straight until sleeve measures approximately 21 inches at centre, ending with 1st pattern row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Join shoulders, side and sleeve seams, leaving 2½ ( : 3 : 3), inches open at the top of sleeve seam; then insert the sleeves sewing rows left free at top along cast-off stitches on back and fronts at start of armholes.

Front Borders

Left: With No 11 needles, cast on 9 stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front and round to centre back of neck, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go
along. Cast off in rib.

Right: Work to correspond with left, with the addition of 7 buttonholes, first to come ½ inches up from lower edge, 7th at start of neck shaping and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left border with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end, then when knitting the next row back, cast on 3 over those cast off.

[Editor's note: If you are making an over-sized cardigan, you may wish to omit the buttonholes and just have the tie belt for closure.]

Pocket Tops

With right side facing and No 11 needles, k34 stitches from stitch holder, increasing 1 stitch in centre. [35 sts]
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib as for borders.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly on right side and pocket linings lightly on wrong side.

Belt

With No 11 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 52 (54 : 56 : 58) inches in rib as for front borders. Cast off evenly in rib.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

11 (12 : 12 : 13) x 50 gram balls Double Knitting in "Heather"

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

2 stitch-holders

7 buttons

Tension

27 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches; sleeve seam: 21 inches for all sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

Tw3: twist 3 sts by knitting 3rd stitch on left needle, then knit 2nd stitch, then knit 1st stitch and slip all 3 stitches off the needle together.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona. This was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 100 yards per 50g.

It is a slightly heavier weight DK so a worsted might make a good substitute. "Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2016

Blanket Coat

Coatigan1.jpg

....or "coatigan" *.
Shown on a chap but I would like it for me... and let's face it - he looks pretty silly - even for 1976 as I remember it....
It's a very simple knit being made up of rectangles in garter stitch - if I had a loom wide enough I would actually like to have a go at weaving the fabric - but here is the knitted version - plus a man's vest or slipover which is illustrated with it.

[* I believe I am not the only one who hates this word - I am not sure it adds anything much to the meaning but .... it is the jargon of the moment]

Coat Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The original coat was knitted in coloured stripes of garter stitch using a tweedy yarn. The basic design is very simple made up of block rectangles and can easily be knitted in a single colour if preferred.

Left Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 45 (47 : 49) stitches and work 5 rows in garter stitch.

Continue with double yarn and garter stitch and work 2 rows A; 6 rows C. Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, working in stripes as follows:
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C

These 42 rows form the striped pattern. Repeat them 4 times more, then rows 1-24 inclusive again. **

Continue in pattern but shaping neck as follows:
Next row: knit to the last 3 stitches, cast off 3.
Break yarn.

Rejoin yarn at neck edge and keeping side edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge the next 3 rows, then on the following 4 alternate rows, ending at side edge.

Shape shoulder as follows:
1st row: cast off 4 (5 : 6), knit to end
Work one row straight.
3rd row: cast off 5, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Work 1 row straight
5th row: cast off 5, knit to end.
Work 1 row
7th row: as 3rd row.

Now cast of 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 6) stitches.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Next row: Cast off 3, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with left front reversing shapings.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 95 (99 : 103) stitches. Continue with double yarn and work 5 rows in C; 2 rows A; 6 rows C.
Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, continue in garter stitch striped pattern as for left front.

Work straight until back measures same as front to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending with same row as left front.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, then 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 29 stitches.

Sleeves

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 105 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until sleeve measures 7 inches, ending with a 1st row.

Next row: k2 * k2tog, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k3. [90 sts]

Join in A and work in garter stitch striped pattern,a s given for Left Front, repeating the 42 rows 3 times in all, and then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Cast off.

Right Border (for a man - left border for a woman)

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 15 stitches.

1st row (right side facing): k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until border fits up the front - when slightly stretched - to the start of the neck shaping, ending with a 2nd row.
Cast off in rib, and sew border in position.

Left Border (for a man - right border for a woman)

Work to correspond with right border, with the addition of 6 buttonholes, the first to come 6 inches up from the lower edge and the 6th to come ¾ inch below the start of the neck shaping and the rest spaced evenly in between.

First mark the positions of the buttons on the opposite border, and work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 6, cast off 3, rib to end. On the next row cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

Sew second border in position, taking care that the stripes are level with those on the opposite front.

Pockets (make 2)

With No 6 (5mm) needles and C, cast on 31 stitches and work in garter stitch stripes as follows:

5 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A

Break off B and A.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and join in an extra strand of C - using C yarn double, knit a further 5 rows.
Cast off knitwise.

Make a second pocket in the same way.

Collar

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 113 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows for 7 inches, ending with 2nd row, and cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.
Place a marker at side edges on back and fronts 9 inches down from shoulder seams, then sew cast-off edge of sleeves between markers.
Join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes and reversing seam for cuffs. Turn back 4 inch cuffs and catch in position on sleeve
seam.
Sew cast-on edge of collar to neck edge, starting and ending in centre of front borders.
Fold collar in half to right side and oversew double edges neatly.

Pin pockets on fronts, lower edge of pocket to come at start of 3rd broad stripe in C, 1¼ inches from side seam.
Sew pockets neatly in position taking care to match stripes with main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons

Materials

5 (5 : 6) 50g balls in colour A (beige); 4 (4 : 5) in B (pink); 8 (9 : 9) in C (olive) worsted or DK.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 38 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 34½ ins or 88 cm, all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

A word on the wool.

The original yarns was Patons Bracken Tweed which was a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The original yarn I remember from the 1960s was almost certainly 100% wool; however it seems a later incarnation was with 40% acrylic and it is likely that this pattern refers to that yarn. I can't offer any insights on yardage for either of these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Coatigan2.jpg


Coatigan6.jpg

Here is a version of the coat that I made. I have written copious notes about its construction in a blog entry "The Age of Aquarius"!


CoatiganSlipover.jpg

Slipover Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The slipover is worked in one colour.

Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 103 (107 : 113) stitches.

1st row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows for 4 inches, ending with a 2nd row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.

Next row (right side facing): knit 5 (7 : 4), k2tog, * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (8 : 5) stitches, knit to end. [87 (91 : 95) sts]

Continue in garter stitch and work straight until front measures 16 (16 : 16½) inches ending with right side facing.
**

Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69 (71 : 73) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Continue shaping armhole and shape neck as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k32 (33 : 34). Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 33 (34 : 35) stitches only for the first side, and work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 27 (28 : 29) stitches remain.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 4th row until 16 (17 : 18) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 25 (25 : 25½) inches, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 4 (4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4 (4 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **.
Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 67 (69 : 71) stitches remain, and then on every following 4th row until 61 (63 : 65) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front to shoulder at armhole edge.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:
Cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 4, k11 (11 : 12), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

1st row: k2tog, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast off 4, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 23 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press as for coat. Join right shoulder seam.

Neck Border:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left side of neck, k1 from safety pin, (mark this stitch), pick up and knit 53 stitches up right side, then 5 down shaped edge of back, k23 from spare needle, increasing 4 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 5 up left edge of back neck. [145 sts].

1st row (wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of centre marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of marked stitch, p2tog, k1, p2tog tbl, k1 ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more, and then 1st row again.
Cast off in rib decreasing at centre stitch as before.

Join left shoulder seam and border.

Armhole Borders:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 116 (118 : 120) stitches all round each armhole.
Work in 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.

Press seams.

Materials

Materials

6 (6 : 7) 50g balls in colour A (beige) worsted or double knitting.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 30 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 25 (25 : 25½) inches or 63 (63 : 65) cm.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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