Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 4 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Note: Where a number of stitches is given, this refers to the basic number and does not include those made in the pattern.

[Editor's note: I have copied the note above from the original pattern - it will make more sense when you start knitting as the the number of stitches you end up with at the end of each row increases and decreases as part of the pattern stitch.]

Back

With No 11 needles, cast on 112 (120 : 126 : 132) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15), {ml, rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15)} 6 (5 : 6 : 6) times, ml, rib to end. [119 (126 : 133 : 139) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches , Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
3rd row:as 1st.
4th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
5th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p5, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, p5, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
6th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
7th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p7, k6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, p7, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
8th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
9th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p9, k6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches. p9, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
10th row: k 1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
11th row: as 7th.
12th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
13th row: as 5th.
14th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

These 14 rows form pattern for back.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures approximately 18 inches, ending with 14th pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern shape armholes as follows:

Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), k4 (1 : 7 : 1), * p3, k6 repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p4 (1 : 7 : 1), k 1
Next row: k5 (2 : 8 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, p 3, k5 (2 : 8 : 2).

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Cast off remaining 39 (40 : 41 : 43) stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 9 needles, cast on 30 stitches and work 29 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row
Next row: k6, (ml, k6) 4 times. [34 stitches].
Leave these stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**
With No 11 needles, cast on 54 (58 : 62 : 64) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 9 (11 : 15 : 14), {ml, rib 12 (12 : 16 : 12)} 3 (3 : 2 : 3) times, ml, rib to end: [58 (62 : 65 : 68) stitches]
**

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k6 (2 : 6 : 6), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches , Tw3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work a further 27 rows, thus ending with 1st pattern row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of first pocket lining, pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22).

Continue straight in pattern until 14 rows less have been worked than on back to start of armhole shaping, thus ending with 14th pattern row.

Shape front edge as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k4 (9 : 4 : 4), pattern to end.
Next row: pattern to last 8 (13 : 8 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p4 (9 : 4 : 4), k1.
Work 2 rows straight.

Decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58 : 61 : 64) stitches remain, keeping stitches at front edge in reverse stocking stitch as placed.

Work 1 row straight.

Next row: k11 (7 : 11 : 11), pattern to end.

Shape armhole as follows:
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p6 repeat from * to last 14 (10 : 14 : 14) stitches, Tw3 p10 (6 : 10 : 10), k1.

Keep armhole edge straight and continue to decrease 1 stitch at front edge on next and every following 4th row until 23 (24 : 25 : 27) stitches remain.

Note: When shaping at front edge do not continue panel pattern nearest this edge if there are insufficient stitches to work another complete pattern; instead take stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * k3, p 6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches, p3, k6 (2 : 6 : 6).
2nd row: k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern work a further 27 rows, thus ending after 1st pattern row, with right side facing for next row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch-holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of second pocket lining, pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12).
Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles, cast on 46 (48 : 50 : 52) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/ p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (7 : 7 : 6), {ml, rib 8 (5 : 4 : 5)} 4 (7 : 9 : 8) times, ml, rib to end. [51 (56 : 60 : 61) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, k3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.
Now continue in pattern as for back. Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row: k6 (4 : 6 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, p3, k6 (4 : 6 : 2).
2nd row: k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 12th (10th : 8th : 2nd), and then every following 4th row until there are 101 (108 : 114 : 121),stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.
Work straight until sleeve measures approximately 21 inches at centre, ending with 1st pattern row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.
Join shoulders, side and sleeve seams, leaving 2½ (2½ : 3 : 3), inches open at the top of sleeve seam; then insert the sleeves sewing rows left free at top along cast-off stitches on back and fronts at start of armholes.

Front Borders

Left: With No 11 needles, cast on 9 stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front and round to centre back of neck, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along. Cast off in rib.

Right: Work to correspond with left, with the addition of 7 buttonholes, first to come ½ inches up from lower edge, 7th at start of neck shaping and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left border with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end, then when knitting the next row back, cast on 3 over those cast off.

[Editor's note: If you are making an over-sized cardigan, you may wish to omit the buttonholes and just have the tie belt for closure.]

Pocket Tops

With right side facing and No 11 needles, k34 stitches from stitch holder, increasing 1 stitch in centre. [35 sts]
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib as for borders.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly on right side and pocket linings lightly on wrong side.

Belt

With No 11 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 52 (54 : 56 : 58) inches in rib as for front borders. Cast off evenly in rib.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

11 (12 : 12 : 13) x 50 gram balls Double Knitting in "Heather"

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

2 stitch-holders

7 buttons

Tension

27 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches; sleeve seam: 21 inches for all sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

Tw3: twist 3 sts by knitting 3rd stitch on left needle, then knit 2nd stitch, then knit 1st stitch and slip all 3 stitches off the needle together.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona. This was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 100 yards per 50g.

It is a slightly heavier weight DK so a worsted might make a good substitute. "Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.