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Archive entry for May 2016

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May 2016

Diamond Marine Top

DiamondMarine.jpg

An irresistible summer top in clean cut navy an white.
As well as the understated pattern of navy diamonds, there is a subtle vertical line of patterning within the white body of the top, which draws the eye to emphasise the flattering shape.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

**
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and blue yarn (B), cast on 120 (124 : 128) stitches and work 10 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row.

Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: This row forms a ridge for the hem line.]

Work a further 9 rows in stocking stitch starting with a purl row, increasing 2 (6 : 10) stitches evenly across last row.
[122 (130 : 138) sts].

Break B.

With right side facing, change to No 10 needles and yarn W; pattern as follows:

1st row: k14 (18 : 22), * p2, k21; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k14 (18 : 22).
2nd row: p14 (18 : 22), * k2, p21; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p14 (18 : 22).

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight until back measures 4 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 12th row until there are 132 (140 : 148) stitches.
**

Work straight until back measures 14 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows. [120 (126 : 132) sts].
Continue straight until back 20½ (20½ : 21) inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 12 rows, then 5 (7 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 38 (40 : 42) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. [132 (140 : 148) sts]
Continue straight until front measures 11½ inches from purl ridge.

Wind off 4 small balls of yarn B. With right side facing, introduce diamond motifs, joining in a separate ball of B for each diamond.

1st row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k10 W, join in B and k1 B, k10 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
2nd row: p19 (23 : 27) W, k2 W, * p9 W, p3 B, p9 W, k2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, p19 (23 : 27) W.
3rd row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k8 W, k5 B, k8 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
4th row: p19 (23 : 27) W, k2 W, * p7 W, p7 B, p7 W, k2 W;
repeat from * 3 times more, p19 (23 : 27) W.
5th row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k6 W, k9 B , k6 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
6th row: as 4th.
7th row: as 3rd.
8th row: as 2nd.
9th row: as 1st.
Break yarn B.
10th-12th rows: in W, keeping 2-row pattern consistent.

Repeat these 12 rows twice more and at the same time when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and and following 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows. [120 (126 : 132) sts].

Now keep armhole edge straight but continue working diamond motifs until 3 complete patterns have been done.
Break B.
Work a few rows straight in W until front measures 16 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 58 (61 : 64), k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on first half of work and shape neck edge by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next 7 rows, then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row until 41 (43 : 45) stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 5 alternate rows.

Next row: in pattern, cast off remaining 5 (7 : 9) stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, k2tog, pattern to end, and finish to correspond with first side.

Collar

With No 10 needles and yarn B, cast on 179 (181 : 189) stitches.

Next row: k35, knit twice in the next stitch, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k101 (103 : 111), knit twice in the next stitch,, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k35.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k36, knit twice in the next stitch, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k103/(105 : 113), knit twice in the next stitch, k2,
knit twice in the next stitch, k36.
Next row:
purl.
Continue increasing 4 stitches thus on the next and following alternate row. [195(197 : 205) sts]
Next row: knit. [This last row forms ridge for hemline.

Next row: k38, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k107(109 : 117), k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k38.
Next row:
purl.
Next row:
k37, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k105(107 : 115), k2tog, k2, k2, k2tog tbl, k37.
Next row:
purl.
Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and following alternate row. [179 (181 : 189) sts]
Next row:
purl.
Break yarn B.

With right side facing, change to W and continue as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k32, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k99 (101 : 109), k2tog, k2, k2togtbl, k32, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, k30, k2tog, k2, k2togtbl,
k97 (99 : 107) , k2tog, k2, k2togtbl, k30, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Continue decreasing 6 stitches thus on the next and every alternate row until 77 (79 : 87) stitches remain.
Next row:
purl.
Next row:
k2tog , k2, k2togtbl, knit to the last 6 stitches, k2tog , k2, k2tog tbl.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k4tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, k4tog.
Next row:
purl.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Join shoulder seams.
Armhole Facings: With No 12 needles and yarn W, right side facing, pick up and k108 (108 : 116) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib using a bigger needle.
Join side seams.

Turn under the 9 rows of stocking stitch to wrong side up to the purl hem line all round the lower edge and slip-hem in position.
Turn under 6 rows of ribbing to wrong side all round armhole and slip-hem in position.
Join blue border on collar neatly at centre front, then turn under 7 rows of stocking stitch up to the purl ridge and slip-hem lightly on wrong side. Press hem.
Sew collar neatly in position.

Press all seams and hems.

Materials

7 (8 : 8) ozs 4 ply crepe in White (W), and 2 oz in Marine Blue (B).

A pair each Nos 12 (2¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

29sts x 37 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36 : 37-38) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 21½ (21½ : 22) inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is a standard Patons Cameo Crepe 4 ply yarn. 1oz is about 28g, so 7oz is 4 50g balls; however I cannot offer any information on the yardage.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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