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Archive entry for June 2016

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June 2016

Anyone for Tennis?

TennisDress.jpg

This is a knitted dress with crochet insets.....
"... to line up the prettiest back view".

No denying the charm of this dress (and model) though sadly I need them to be a little less revealing these days. But in the words of my 82 year old aunt - at the height of the mini skirt fashion when I was 13 - "well if I had legs like yours I'd bloomin' well show 'em off!".

Instructions.

Special cluster stitch as follows:
[Editor's note: You will probably find this stitch easier to execute when you try it as opposed to how it appears on paper.]

Make Cluster:
(yrh) twice, insert hook in next tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice, * (yrh) twice, insert hook into same tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice *; repeat from * to * twice more, draw a loop through all 5 loops on hook.

Front

Using size 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 156 (164 : 172 : 180) stitches and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until front measures 1½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14) k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11: 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [132 (144 : 152 : 160) stitches ]

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 84 (92 : 100 : 104) stitches remain, ending with a decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only :
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: {k - (11 : 13 : -)}, k2togtbl, knit to last - (13 : 15 : -) stitches, k tog., k - (11 : 13 : -). [84 (90 : 98 : 104) stitches

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until front measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 114 (120 : 128 : 134) stitches, ending with an increase row.
Work 11 rows straight.

Shape armhole and divide for neck:

Next row: cast off 4, k 51 (54 : 58 : 61), k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.

Continue on these 52 (55 : 59 : 62) 52/55/59/62 stitches for the first side as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 37 (40 : 41 : 44) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 25 (26 : 27 : 28) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at neck edge on every alternate row until 21 (22 : 22 : 23) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight.

Now decrease at the neck edge on the next and every following 4th row until 16 stitches remain.

Work straight until armhole measures 7 ( : 8 : ) inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6 stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches, k2tog, knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Left Back

With No 10 needles, cast on 61 (65 : 69 : 73) stitches, and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until back measures 1½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [49 (55 : 59 : 63) sts]

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 25 (29 : 33 : 35) stitches remain, ending with an decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only: Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k. to the last - (11 : 13 : -) stitches, k2tog, k - (11 : 13 : -). 25 (28 : 32 : 35) sts]

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until back measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, ml, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14). Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 35 (38 : 42 : 45) stitches.
Work 3 rows straight.

Continue shaping bodice and at the same time shape back slope as follows:

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row
: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog , knit to end.
Work 1 row straight.

Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog , k. to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.

Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14) [34 (37 : 41 : 44) sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at back slope on the next and every following
3rd row until 30 (33 : 37 : 40) stitches remain.

Continue shaping back slope and shape armhole as follows:

Next row: knit.
Next row: cast off 4, purl to end.

Continue decreasing at back slope on next and every following 3rd row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 14 (17 : 18 : 21) stitches remain.

Now decrease at the armhole edge on every alternate row and continue decreasing at back slope as before until 4 (5 : 6 : 8) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at back slope as before until 2 stitches remain.
Work 2 rows straight.
P2tog and fasten off.

Right Back

Work to correspond with the left back, reversing shapings.
Your 1st decrease row on the skirt will read:
{k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to end.

Your increase row on bodice will read:
k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to end.

Crochet border

With No 11 (3mm) hook, make 340 (356 : 372 : 388) chain.

1st row (right side facing): 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, * 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, *1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 Cl. (CL = cluster - see start of instructions) in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 4 ch, {1 tr in next 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of last 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, {1 ch, 1 tr in next tr} twice, 1 ch; repeat from * ending last repeat, 1 ch, 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

This completes lower edge border, do not break yarn.

Sewing in position as you go along, work left back border as follows:

1st row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, turn.
2nd row:: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Rows 2 to 6 inclusive, form border pattern.

Continue in pattern until border fits up left back edge to top of slope, when slightly stretched.
Then continue in crochet pattern beyond the end of the knitted piece until back matches front at armhole edge (see photo), ending with 2nd, 4th or 5th pattern row.
Fasten off.

Work right back border as follows:

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to 9th stitch in from left-hand edge of bottom border and make 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Finish to correspond with left border.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder and side seams, then join border to lower edge.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, work 1 round dc all round armhole.

Work picot edging as follows:
Next round: * 1 dc in next 3 dc, {ss, 4 ch, Ss} in next dc; repeat from * all round armhole, join with Ss in first dc Fasten off.

Neck, Back and Lower Edge Border: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, start at left back lower edge and work 1 row dc up
left back, all round neck, down right back and along lower edge, increasing and decreasing to ease round corners as required.
Join with Ss in first dc.

Next round: Work in dc to a point level with the start of the back slope shaping, then work picot edging up to shoulder, all round neck and down right back to point level with the start of back slope shaping.

Then finish by working in dc to lower edge, working 16 button loops.
First mark the position of the buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond - the first is to come over next 2 stitches, and the 16th to come 2 inches above lower edge, and the remainder spaced evenly.

To make a button loop: Work 3 ch, miss 2 dc.

Now work picot edging along lower edge, join with Ss in first dc.
Fasten off.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 (5 : 6 : 6) x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe in white.

Pair No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Crochet hooks Nos
11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm) needles.

16 buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch.
Crochet Border: 2 pattern repeats measure 4¼ inches in width.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches, 81 (86 : 91 : 97) cm;
length from top of shoulders, 29 (29½ : 30 : 30½) inches, 74 (75 : 76 : 77) cm.

Abbreviations:

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

ch: chain
CL: make cluster (see instructions)
tr: treble crochet
dc: double crochet
yrh: double crochet
SP: space
Ss: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Limelight 100% acrylic - knits as 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


This is styled reminiscent of the astonishingly popular seventies photo depicting the back view of a female tennis player (or more accurately "a student in tennis whites").

FionaButler.jpg

And not forgetting, the year after this photo was taken, we were all inspired by British tennis as Virginia Wade won the 1977 ladies singles at Wimbledon (without having to reveal her bottom).

WadeWins.jpg

I was unable to watch the match as I was working during my student summer break - but in the evening at Victoria railway station - where they had only just installed the new electronic announcement boards - I read "Wade wins Wimbledon 4-6, 6-3, 6-1" demonstrating the sense of elation felt by all since this was a pretty unusual departure from the norm for good old British Rail at that time...

© Christina Coutts 2007

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