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Archive entry for November 2016

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November 2016

Elegance for winter cocktails

BeadedTop.jpg

I admit this is clearly styled for summer but I always thought to make it in black with gold beads and perhaps a gold metallic yarn for the collar.
Either way it's a lovely flattering top in fine yarn.

This pattern offers you the option of beads - which are threaded on in advance and then knitted in - or "trimmmed with embroidery". I found a good alternative to pre-threading beads which is hooking them, where you can work them in as you go. I wrote about this technique in an earlier entry, and repeat the instructions here at the end of these pattern instructions.
I think beads would be lovely for a winter version and perhaps embroidery for summer.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. Instructions in square brackets also apply to both sizes.
For beaded version the instructions are the same, but to form the
pattern work "bead over next stitch" instead of p1 in the pattern
rows. The beads are knitted in on the right side of the work and to
work a "bead over next stitch" bring wool to front of work, push a
bead up wool close to front of work, slip 1 purlways, wool back; the
bead is now lying on top of the slipped stitch.

To thread beads on to the wool, make a needle with a 4-inch length of fuse wire by folding up 1½ inches of wire into a loop, slip the end of the wool through the loop, then twist the wire very tightly to form a smooth needle with the wool fixed firmly at the end.

[Editor's note: I wrote about threading beads in a previous article - go to this link to see some pictures.]

Back

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and pink wool, cast on 107 (113) stitches and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. With right side facing, change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

For bead version: break wool and thread 126 beads.

1st - 6th rows: Work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
7th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k5, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k29; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
8th row: Purl.
9th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k6, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k26; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
10th row: Purl.
11th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k7, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1]
3 times, k22; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
12th row: Purl.
13th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k8, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k21; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
14th row: Purl.
15th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k 9, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k14, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
16th row: Purl.
17th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
18th row: Purl.
19th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k11, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
20th row: Purl.
21st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k14, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k4, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k7; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
22nd row: Purl.
23rd (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k3, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k8; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
24th row: Purl.
25th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k20, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
26th row: Purl.
27th (pattern) row: k1 (4),* k19, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch," k1] 3 times, k10; repeat from * to last 1(4) stitches, k1 (4).
28th row: Purl.
29th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k18, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k13; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
30th row: Purl.
31st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k17; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
32nd row: Purl.
33rd - 38th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.
39th - 44th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.

For bead version, break wool and thread 126 beads.

45th - 70th rows: As 7th to 32nd rows but reverse, motif by reading pattern rows (odd rows) backwards,for example 45th (7th) row will read:
45th row: k1 (4), * k29, p1 or "bead over next stitch" k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).

71st - 76th rows: As 1st to 6th rows.

These 76 rows form pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until there are 125 (131) stitches, taking increased stitches into stocking stitch a few rows straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.
**

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 97 (99) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until 5 lines of motifs have been done, then continue in stocking-stitch until back measures 22½ inches down centre. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 37 (39) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. Continue in pattern shaping armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and following alternate row. [107 (113) sts]
Purl 1 row.

Now shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, pattern 45 (48), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.
Next row:
Purl.
Next row: k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge, on the following 3 (5) alternate rows, then keep this edge straight, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th row until 30 stitches remain.

Work straight in stocking-stitch until front matches back.

With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, shaping shoulder by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows (the armhole edge).
With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 13, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: Purl.
Next row:
k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Collar

Join shoulder seams. With No 11 needles and white (contrast) wool, cast on 31 (33) stitches.
1st row:* k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: Rib 1, rib2tog, rib to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, rib 1.
3rd row: Rib.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits comfortably all round neck. Cast off in rib; join short sides.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. With No. 11 needles, right side facing and pink wool, pick up and knit 110 (110) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Embroidered Jumper: With white wool embroider motifs in the pattern by working 6 diagonal lines of running stitches through the purl stitches of each motif all over back and front (see photo).

Join side seams.
Sew collar in position all round neck.
Press all seams and embroidery lightly.

Materials

7 (7) ozs Fingering 4 ply in "Radiant Pink", and 1 (l) oz in white.
For bead version:
white knit beads.

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-35 (36-37) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

increase in next stitch: knit into the front and back of the stitch.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is a standard Patons 4 ply yarn. 1oz is about 28g, so 7oz is 4 50g balls; however I cannot offer any information on the yardage.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.


© Christina Coutts 2007

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