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Archive entry for 2017

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September 2017

Team Mates for Outdoors

TeamMatesForOutdoors.jpg

"Their woollies match - her warm button-up and his comfortable sweater"
But still so sad to have to say goodbye to the the lovely man.

Instructions.

Pattern rows used throughout:

1st row (wrong side facing): p3, * slip the next 2 stitches on to the cable needle and place to back of work, k2, k2 from cable needle (this will be called cable back), slip next 2 stitches on to cable needle to front of work, k2, k2 from cable needle (this will be
called cable front), p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, cable back, cable front, p3.
2nd row: k3, * (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k6, p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k3.
3rd row: p3, * (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p6, k8, p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p3.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 4 times more, then 2nd row again.

13th row: As 1st row.
14th row: k3, * p8, k6, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.
15th row: p3, * k8, p6, (k. l, p1) 3 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k8, p3.
Repeat 14th and 15th rows 4 times more, then 14th row again.

These 24 rows form the pattern.

Cardigan Back

With No. 12 needles cast on 98 stitches and work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 25th and every following 6th row, 6 times (110 sts), taking increased stitches into reversed stocking-stitch.
Work straight until back measures 12½mm inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 20 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then cast off remaining stitches loosely.

Cardigan Left Front

With No 12 needles cast on 42 stitches and work 3½ inches
in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches , p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern, shaping side edge by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 25th and every following 6th row, 6 times, taking increased stitches into reversed stocking-stitch.

Work straight until front matches back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every row until
31 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 18½ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, then on the following 3 rows at this edge.

Work straight until front measures 20 inches, then, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Cardigan Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles cast on 50 stitches and work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k7, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 15 stitches, p8, k7.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern but keeping the 7 stitches at each end of the needle in reversed stocking stitch instead of 3.

Thus your 1st row will read:
p7, * cable back, cable front, p6; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.

Continue thus in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 64 stitches , taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made (you will now have 5 cable panels across sleeve).

Continue increasing as before on every 6th row until there are 78 stitches, taking the increased stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 36 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 24 stitches remain; cast off.

Making Up the Cardigan

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Join shoulder seams.

Front bands:
With No 12 needles cast on 13 stitches and work a strip in moss stitch, [ie, every row (k1, p1) 6 times, k1], to fit up the left front when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along and leave stitches on a spare needle or a stitch holder at the top.

Make a similar strip for the right front with the addition of 11 buttonholes, the first to come ¼-inch from lower edge, and the 11th about ½-inch from the top (allowing for 12th hole to come in the neckband later) and the remainder at equal intervals. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes on right front to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
Moss 5, cast off 3, moss to end and then work back, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder as before.

Neckband:
With right side facing and No 12 needles, moss 13 stitches from right front border, pick up and knit 67 stitches all round neck and moss remaining 13 stitches from left border.

Work 1 inch in moss-stitch, making 12th buttonhole after ¾-inch has been done; cast off in moss stitch.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew on buttons.


Pullover Back

With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 126 stitches and work 3½ inches
k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; rep. from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and work straight in pattern, until back measures 14 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting oft 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 23 inches, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Pullover Front

Work exactly as for back to end of armhole shapings (96 stitches).

Work straight over all stitches until front measures 18½ inches at centre. Here divide for neck:
With right side facing, pattern 38, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continuing on first 38 stitches only, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following 3rd row until 30 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Now return to the remaining stitches. Slip the centre 20 on a spare needle or stitch holder, and rejoin the yarn to the last 38 stitches, at the neck edge, and work to correspond with first shoulder.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles cast on 64 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the last row (70 stitches).

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and working in pattern, increase 1 stitch at
each end of the 13th and every following 6th row until there are 88 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the reversed stocking stitch border.
Work straight until sleeve measures 19½ inches, or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 25 stitches remain. Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam, and with right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 120 stitches all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work 1 inch k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pullover

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

11oz for the cardigan and 13oz for the pullover.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm), No 11 (3mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
Cable needle.

12 buttons for the cardigan.

Tension

26 sts to 4 inches
(This must be measured over the pattern).

Size matters

Cardigan: To fit 33-34-inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 20½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18 inches.

Pullover: To fit 37-39 inch chest;
length from top of shoulders: 23½
inches;
sleeve seam, 19½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Pattern detail:

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Glengarry.
Originals colour "straw" No. 1037.

This yarn is described as a "medium weight sports yarn".

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2017

Beach Coat

BeachCoat1.jpg

Warm wrap for the beach with a hood - completely appropriate for a breezy British summer's day!.
The wrap is lined with towelling (optional) - and I think this is an excellent idea for a beach wrap. You will need to choose as fine (thin) a towelling fabric as you can because the wrap will already be fairly chunky even though it is made from a light weight quickknit or 5ply.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Navy Blue by B, Green by G, and Pink by P.

Back

With colour B, cast on 130 (138) stitches and work 3 inches straight.
Fold work in half and make a hem on the next row.
Continue straight in B until piece measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to G and work 4 inches Break G.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to P and work 3 inches Break P.
Change to W and work straight until back measures 16 inches from
lower edge.
Continue in W and shape armholes by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off stitches

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows. Work 8 rows straight on remaining 46 (46) stitches
Transfer these stitches on to a spare knitting needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Right Front

With Colour B, cast on 68 (72) stitches and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row : Purl, casting on 10 (10) stitches at end of row for facing front edge.

Continue straight in B until work measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Join in W and continue in striped pattern exactly as for back until stripe in P is done. Break P.

Continue in W until front measures 16 inches from lower edge,
ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next row for armhole, then work straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off
stitches ending at armhole edge.

Next row (wrong side facing): shape shoulder by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the front edge, then work 8 rows straight on remaining 26 (26) stitches.
Transfer these stitches on to a spare needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Left Front

As for right front, cast on 68 (72) stitches in colour B, and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row (wrong side facing): cast on 10 (10) stitches for front edge facing, purl to end.

Work to correspond with right front reversing the shapings.
Editors note: the cast off for the armhole and shoulder are with right side facing, and the cast off for the front edge is with wrong side facing.

Sleeves

With colour B, cast on 80 (80) stitches and work 4 inches straight in stocking-stitch for facing. Break B.
Change to W and work straight for a further 4 inches

Continue in W and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 100 stitches, then at each end of every following 4th row until there are 120 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve measures 20 (20) inches down centre from start of W.
Cast off loosely right across.

Hood

First Half:
With wrong side of work facing, slip 26 stitches from right front and 23 stitches from back of neck on to one needle. [49 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): * p2; purl twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [65 sts].

Continue in W and work 2 rows straight, then cast on 17 stitches at front edge for facing. Work 12½ inches straight.
Cast off.

Second Half:
Work to correspond with first half.

Facing:
Join back and top seam of hood.
With colour B, cast on 27 stitches and work a strip to fit all round front
edge of hood. Cast off.

To Make Up

Editors note: lining the coat with fine towelling is optional (as is the colour of the lining material). However, if you are planning to do so, it is a good idea to cut out the lining using the knitted pieces as a pattern guide, at this point - before you sew the coat together. Allow ¼-½ inch turnings for the seams.

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, pinning out each piece to shape and taking care not to stretch centre edges on fronts.
Join shoulder seams.
Pin cast-off edge of sleeves along armholes in between the 10 cast-off stitches at start, then pin side edges of sleeves to the cast-off stitches thus giving a square effect to sleeve top.
Sew in position.
Join sleeve and side seams, matching stripes carefully.

Fold under 10 facing stitches down front edges and slip-hem lightly in position; catch down neatly at neck and lower edge.
Fold under 4 inches of blue facing on sleeves and catch down lightly all round on wrong side.

Press lightly and turn back 2½ inches of facing on to right side for cuffs.
Sew the white facing ribbon all round neck on wrong side just below start of hood, inserting cord as you do so. With W wool, bind or knot cord 1 inch in from each end, then fringe ends for tassels.

Sew blue facing all round front of hood, right sides facing, and along cast-on stitches at each side; turn width of facing on to wrong side and press; catch down neatly all round so that stitches do not show through on right side. Fold back on to right side and catch down at sides to keep in position.

Press all seams.

Line back, fronts and hood with yellow towelling if required.

Materials

Quick-knit, 5ply, or light double knitting: 14(15) 1oz balls in White, 6(6)oz in Royal Blue, and 2(2)oz each in Carnival Pink, and Shannon Green.

A pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

2 yards of fine yellow towelling for the lining; 1 yard of white facing ribbon; 1¼ yards white cord.

Tension

26 sts to 4 ins on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35(36-39) inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 26 inches
Sleeve seam: 16 ins with cuff turned back.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Quickerknit Botany.
Note that 1 oz is about 28g.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality and available in wonderful range of colours. [Though if you really want to use it al lot on the beach you might want to look for a less luxurious fibre option].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Make a Hem

There are a number of tutorials on You tube about making an invisible hem as you knit.

This one shows you two ways - the first part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

This one shows you a number of ways to make a hem starting with just making the hem at the end when you sew up. The latter part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

BeachCoat2.jpg

July 2017

Crochet Sun Hat

SunHat1.jpg

Instructions.

Note: Yarn is used double throughout.

Make 5 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch (ss) in 1st chain.
1st round: 3 ch, 9 tr into ring, join with ss in top of 3 ch. [10 sts]
2nd round: 3 ch, 1 tr in base of 3 ch, 2 tr in each stitch to end, join
with Ss in top of 3 ch. [20 sts]
3rd round: 4 ch, * 1 tr in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * join with Ss in 3rd of 4 ch. [20 ch sp]
4th round: Ss in 1st ch SP, 1 dc in same ch SP, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in first dc.
5th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st ch SP, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in 1st dc
6th and 7th rounds: as 5th.
8th round: 1 ch, 2 dc in 1st ch SP, * 3 ch, 2 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in 1st dc.

Repeat the last round 13 times more.

Make row of holes for cord as follows:
22nd round: 2 ch, 2 htr in 1st ch SP, * 2 ch, 3 htr in next ch SP; repeat from * ending last repeat, 2 ch, Ss in top of 2 ch.

Brim

23rd round: Ss in next st, 1 dc in this st, * 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch SP, 2 ch, 1 dc in 2nd htr of previous round; repeat from * ending last repeat, 2 ch, Ss in 1st dc.
24th round: Ss in next ch SP, 1 ch, 2 dc in same ch SP, * 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 htr in 1st dc.
25th round: 1 ch, 2 dc in 1st ch SP, * 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 htr in 1st dc.
Repeat the last round 6 times more.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

To prevent heavy pressing and use of an iron, either of which could be injurious to fabric, some yarns state that they should not be pressed. Light pressing is suitable as follows:
Block brim by pinning out round edge and lightly press using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth.
Using 4 strands of yarn together make a twisted cord and thread through holes, tie in a bow at back.

SunHat2.jpg

Materials

3 x 50g balls in double knitting yarn.

A No 6 (5mm ) crochet hook

Tension

10 stitches and 7 rows measures 2 inches (5cm) over brim pattern.

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
SP: space
Ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
htr: half treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was "Promise" which was a brand name used more than once by Patons. This one is almost certainly the very slightly bouclé, fluffy yarn "with tricel" from the early seventies. In the eighties it was produced as a more fluffy synthetic double knitting/worsted.

June 2017

Cool Beauty

BlushingBride.jpg

"Roses All the Way"
The copy says "cool beauty with openwork patterning", and, lovely though she looks in a shady garden, I cannot help thinking that a June bride would be a bit hot and bothered dressed head to toe in knitwear.
It might be lovely for a winter wedding however, and given the time it would take to tackle such a project, you definitely need to plan ahead!.

Instructions

The pattern panel for the dress is worked over 5 stitches as follows:

1st row: yfwd, k2togtbl., k1, k2tog, yfwd.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd., k1.
4th row: purl.

Front

‡‡
Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 187 (203 : 221) stitches and starting with a knit row, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.
Work a further 11 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the centre of the last row on the 2nd size only. [187 (204 : 221) sts]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch, placing panel patterns as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, pattern 5 as 1st row of panel pattern, * k12, pattern 5 as 1st row of panel pattern; repeat from * to last
6 stitches, k6.
2nd row: p6, pattern 5 as 2nd row of panel pattern, * p12, pattern 5 as 2nd row of panel pattern; repeat from * to last 6 stitches , p6.

Keeping continuity of panel patterns, work thus until front measures 24 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.

1st decrease row: k2, k2tog, k2, pattern 5; * k5, k2tog , k5, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 6 stitches; k2, k2tog, k2. [175 (191 : 207) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k2, k2tog , k1, pattern 5; * k5, k2tog , k4, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k1, k2tog, k2. [163 (178 : 193) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k1 , k2tog , k1, pattern 5; * k4, k2tog , k4, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 4 stitches; k1, k2tog, k1. [151 (165 : 179) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

4th decrease row: k1, k2tog, pattern 5; * k4, k2tog, k3, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; k2tog, k1. [139 (152 : 165) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front measures 39 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with 1st pattern row.

Next row: p2, pattern 5, * (p2tog) twice, (p2togtbl) twice, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 2 stitches; p2. [99 (108 : 117) sts]

Now work in lace pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * k1, yfwd, sl 1, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k1, C4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k1, yfwd, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k3.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row
: k2, * yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd, k4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches , yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd, k2.
4th row: purl.
These 4 rows form the lace pattern.

Continue in lace pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 115 (124 : 133) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 45 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.
‡‡

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the of next 2 rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 97 (102 : 103) stitches remain; then decrease at each end of every alternate row until 83(88 : 91) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until front measures approximately 49½ (50 : 50½) inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with 2nd pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 30 (31 : 32), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Continue on these stitches for the first side, shaping neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 22 (23 : 24) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until front measures 52 (52½ : 53) inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 (6 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 23 (26 : 27) stitches on a stitch holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches. Finish to correspond with
first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes and divide for back opening as follows:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern 53 (58 : 62), turn and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
Continue on these 53 (58 : 62) stitches for the first side, and work 1 row straight.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 48 (51 : 51) stitches remain, then on every alternate row until 41 (44 : 45) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern on these stitches until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 (6 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 7 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, casting off 1 stitch at the centre on the 1st and 3rd sizes only. Finish to correspond
with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 53 stitches and work 1½ inches in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and ending with right side facing.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.

Now work a further 1½ inches stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row and ending with right side facing. [54 sts]

Change to No 10 needles, and starting with 3rd row, work in lace pattern as for bodice on front, shaping as follows:

Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 11th (3rd : 3rd), and every following 15th (13th : 11th) row until there are 74 (78 : 82) stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve seam measures 17 inches from row of holes at wrist, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the of next 2 rows.
Work 2 rows straight.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 58/62/64 58 (62 : 64) stitches remain, then at each end of every alternate row until 28 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off.

Bonnet

Main part: With No 12 needles, cast on 125 stitches and work 1½ inches in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and ending with right side facing.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.

Starting with a purl row, work a further 1½ inches in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row and ending with right side facing. [126 sts]

Change to No 10 needles and starting with 3rd row, continue in lace pattern as on bodice of dress, until work measures approximately 5 inches from row of holes, ending with 2nd pattern row.

Change to No 12 needles and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and decreasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row. [125 sts]
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work a further 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.

Bonnet back part: With No. 10 needles, cast on 30 stitches and
work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 42 stitches.

Continue straight until bonnet back measures 5½ inches, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side, following instructions (if any) on the ball band, taking care not to spoil the lace pattern on bodice, sleeves and bonnet by over-pressing.

Dress: Join shoulder seams.

Dress Back Borders:
Left: With No 12 needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in garter stitch, (every row knit), until strip fits up left side from start of opening to neck edge. Sew in position as you go along.
Cast off.
Right: With No 12 needles, cast on 61 (65 : 69) stitches and work 6 rows stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work a further 7 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.
Fold border in half at row of holes to form picots, then sew in position along right side from start of opening to top of neck, leaving seven ½ inch spaces in seam to form buttonholes.
First mark position of buttons on button border with pins to ensure even spacing, then make holes to correspond. The first to come ½ inches above division, the last to come ½ inch below neck edge, and the remainder spaced evenly; oversew neatly round each buttonhole.

Neckband:
With right side facing and No 12 needles, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 4 stitches across top of left border, 19 (21 : 21) stitches from back, 18 down left side of neck, knit 23 (26 : 27) from front, decreasing 1 stitch at centre on 2nd size only, pick up and knit 18 up right side, 19 (21 : 21) from back and 4 from right border.
[105 (111 : 113) sts].
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off loosely.
Fold neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Fold picot hems in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press
Place stud at top of neckband.

Bonnet:
Fold picot hems on edges in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position. Sew main part to back leaving small picot hem free.
Fold small picot hem at neck edge only towards back of bonnet and catch down.
Bonnet border: With No. 12 needles, cast on 7 stitches
1st row: k2, (p1, k1) twice, k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 3 times, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits along neck edge from left side to right side, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along.
Now work a further 3½ inches in rib, ending with 2nd row.

Next row: rib 2, cast off 2, rib to end and back, casting on 2 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off.
Press seams. Sew 1 small button on left side.
Divide flowers into 2 bunches and sew on either side.

Materials

Dress: 15 (17 : 18) x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe in white.
Bonnet: 2 x 50g.

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
Stitch-holder.
Cable needle.

7 small buttons.
Press stud.

Small artificial flowers and 1 button for Bonnet.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 36) inches, 81 (86 : 91) cm;
length from top of shoulders, 52 (52½ : 53) inches;
sleeve seam, 17 inches all sizes.

Bonnet: Average hat size.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward
sl: slip
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
C4: cable 4 by slipping the next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Kingfisher Tricel/Nylon, or Patons Cameo Crepe.
The quantities of yarn stated are for the Cameo yarn - which required more as the yardage for wool is not as great.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BlushingBride2.jpg

May 2017

Sunray Jumper

SunRayTop.jpg

Styled for the play-deck.
The good news is that this lovely sleeveless top from the 1950s is simple enough to knit - the bad news is that it is in 3 ply - really fine - yarn and comes in only 2 tiny sizes.
However, if you like the idea there is a charming 1930s Sun-Ray sweater that Susan Crawford has sized from 28-52 inch chest and transposed for the modern knitter in the book "Stitch in Time I".

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back and Front alike (make 2)

With two No 14 (2mm) needles cast on 165 (171) stitches and work 3 (3) inches in k3/p3 rib starting and ending right side rows k3.

Change to No 13 needles.

Next row (right side facing): * k2tog, k1, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. {118 (126) sts}.

Change to garter stitch, (every row knit), and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 156 (164) stitches. Continue straight for a few rows until work measures 11½ (11½) inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of the following 10 (10) rows: {138 (144) sts}.

Continue straight until work measures 13½ (13½) inches at centre.

Yoke

Using the circular needle, knit across 138 (144) stitches of the front, then on to this same needle cast on 87 (87) stitches for one shoulder, knit across 138 (144) stitches of back, then cast on 87 (87) stitches for second shoulder: 450 (462) stitches

Continue in rounds thus:
1st round: * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat this round for 3 (3) inches.

Next round:* k2tog, k1, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to end.
Work 2 (2) inches k2/p2 rib.

Cast off in rib, knitting together every 13th and 14th stitch.

Making Up

Press garter stitch parts very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding the ribbing.
Join side seams; press seams.

Altering the size

It would be feasible to increase the size by knitting in a thicker yarn - but you do need to make a swatch and do some arithmetic. Even changing to a 4 ply with 3¼mm needles would potentially change your chest size from a modest 34 to over 40 inches.

Materials

7 (7) ozs 3 ply in "Radiant Pink"

A pair each Nos 13 (2¼mm) and 14 (2mm) needles.
One circular No 14 (2mm) needle.

Tension

36 sts x 72 rows to 4 ins in garter stitch on No 13 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 20(20) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2017

Sail Away - pullover

TabardPullover.jpg

I admit that including the word "tabard" in the description of a pattern is not so inspiring - for one such as I anyway, a teenager in an era where tabards were ubiquitous and possibly naff even then. However it was named prior to that time and is after all merely descriptive - and I love this pullover. Styled perfectly as shown, worn over a polo-neck - very glamorous, very European, very sixties.

Sail away on a windy day in this attractive tabard style overpull. Jaunty and gay in snug and wind-proof yarn -- heavier than double-knit, yet so light and crisp in feeling. Gold and dark blue colour bands stripe the lower edges and smart side slits, and note the special crew neckline, designed to slip easily over a polo sweater.

Instructions.

Instructions for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Gold by G and Navy Blue by B.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 7 needles and white yarn W, cast on 76/82/88 stitches and work straight in stocking stitch until piece measures 17/17/17½ ins,
ending with a purl row.

Shape neck:
Next row: knit 30/32/34. Turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare
needle, and work each side of the neck separately.
Next row: cast off 2, purl to end.
Next row:knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 18/20/22 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 /21 /21½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder by casting oft 6/6/8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6/7/7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
With right side facing, slip centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin wool to the remaining 30/32/34 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Next row: cast off 2, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles and blue yarn B, cast on 46/46/48 stitches, and work 8 rows in garter-stitch, (every row knit). Break off B.
Join in gold yarn G, and work a further 8 rows in garter-stitch. Break off G.
Join in W, Change to No 7 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 76/76/80 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18½/18½/19 inches.
Editors note: eagle-eyed among you may notice that you knit 18-19 inches here when the size quotes the sleeve seam as 2 inches shorter; this is because 2 inches of the length of the sleeve is sewn to the side panels - which will be clearer when you are making up and finishing.

Cast off loosely using a larger needle.

Borders

Front Neck: With right side facing, using yarn G, and No 8 needles, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round left side of neck, knit 16/18/20 from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round right side. {76/78/80 sts}

Next row: knit.
Next row: (k17, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k24, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k16, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Break off G.
Join in B. and knit 2 rows.
Next row: (k15, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row:
knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k20, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k13, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit. {58/60/62 sts}
Cast off evenly knitwise.

Back Neck: Work as for front neck

Lower Edge: With right side facing, No 8 needles and G, pick up and knit 76/82/88 stitches along lower edge of front.

Work 7 rows garter-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row.
Break G.

Join in B, and work 8 rows garter-stitch, increasing stitch at each end of every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.
Work the lower edge for the back in the same way.

Side edges:
Editors note: You are making a side panel here, knit sideways from the back and front pieces, so you need to do this 4 times - once each side of the two pieces. Refer to the photo which makes it clearer..
Measure 8/8/ ins. down from shoulders for armholes and place a marker at each side edge on back and front.
With right side facing, No 8 needles and G pick up and knit 66/66/66 stitches along white panel on each side edge, ie between markers and start of border at lower edge.
Knit 7 rows G, increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on the next and every alternate row. Break G.
Join in B, and knit 8 rows increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join mitred borders at each corner of lower edge with a flat seam, using a fine backstitch seam.
Join side seams leaving 5 inches open at lower edge for side slits.
Join shoulder seams, matching borders.
Join sleeve seams to within 2 inches of cast-off edge.
Pin the 2 inches of open seam along side borders on back and front, then pin cast-off edge all round armhole; sew in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn: 13/11/15 1oz balls in White and 3 1oz balls in each of Gold and Light Navy Blue.

A pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

20 sts x 25 rows to 4 ins on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
34-35/36-37/38-39 inches, worn loosely as an overblouse.
Length from top of shoulders: 23/23/23½ inches.
Sleeve seam: 16/16/16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Flair - one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight . As usual no clues as to the yardage, but it was 60% wool, 40% courtelle (acrylic).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2017

In like a Lion and out like a Lamb

Lion.jpg Lamb.jpg

So says 17th century weather-watching folklore in respect of March. So here are a couple of delightful toy patterns to herald the change of season.

LION INSTRUCTIONS.

Note that: the lion is knitted with the yarn doubled (2 strands held together).

Front Legs (make 2 mirror image)

Using 2 strands of main colour (M), and 5½mm needles, cast on 19 stitches.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.

5th row: k4, (k2tog) twice, k3, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k4.
6th row: p3, (p2tog) twice, p1, (p2tog) twice, p3.
Work 6 rows straight.

13th row: k1, m1, k4, m1, k1, m1, k4, m1, k1. [15 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

19th row: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1.
Work 3 rows straight.

23rd row: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.

Cast off 9 stitches, knit to end of row, and leave remaining 10 stitches on a stitch holder.

Work a second leg the same way, omitting the last purl row and working the cast off row on a purl row to reverse the shaping.

Body

Using 2 strands of main colour (M), and 5½mm needles, cast on 44 stitches.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.

Cast off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for back legs.
Work 3 rows straight.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Purl 1 row.

Repeat the last 2 rows twice. Cut yarn.

Join in Front Legs:
With right side facing knit 10 stitches from top first leg, k26 stitches across body, and knit 10 stitches from top of second leg. [46 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k18, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k18. [42 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, m1, k17, k2tog, k2, (sl1, k1, psso), k17, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k18, k2tog, k2, (sl1, k1, psso), k18. [40 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, m1, k16, k2tog, k2, (sl1, k1, psso), k16, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k15, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k15. [36 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, (sl1, k1, psso), k10, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k10, k2tog, k1. [30 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, (sl1, k1, psso), k7, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k7, k2tog, k1. [24 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k7, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k7. [20 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Divide for head and face

1st row: k1, m1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Work right side of face on these stitches, leaving the other stitches on a holder.
2nd row: p9, m1, k1. Turn. Cast on 4 stitches.
3rd row: k12, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.

5th row: (k1, m1) 6 times, k5, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.

7th row: k4, (m1, k1) twice, k10, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.

9th row: k17, k2tog, k1.
Place marker thread at the beginning of this row and purl 1 row.

11th row: k1, (sl1, k1, psso), knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog,k1.
Purl 1 row.

Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Work 4 rows straight.

Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 7 stitches.

With right side of work facing, rejoin yarn to remaining 10 stitches on the stitch holder, and work the other side of the head to correspond with the first side, reversing shaping.

To reverse shaping, read rows from end to beginning, or, rejoin yarn with wrong side of work facing and then read knit for purl, and purl for knit.

Front Gusset

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 6 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 16 stitches.

Place marker threads and the end of the last row.
Work 8 rows, and place marker threads on the last row.
Work 3 more rows.

Next row: k3, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k3. [12 sts].
Work 3 rows straight.

Next row: k3, k2tog, k2, sl1, k1, psso, k3. [10 sts].
Work 3 rows straight.

Next row: k2, (k2tog) 3 times, k2. [7 sts].
Place marker threads.
Work 13 rows straight, placing marker threads at the end of the last row.
Work 8 rows straight.

Next row: k2, k3tog, k2. [5 sts].
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: k1, k3tog, k1. [3 sts].
Work 3 rows straight.

Last row: k3tog, and finish off by drawing yarn through last stitch.

Head Gusset

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 4 stitches for base of nose.
Work 8 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.

9th row: k1, m1, knit to the last 2 stitches, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

15th row: (k1, m1) twice, knit to the last 2 stitches, (m1, k1) twice.
Work 11 rows for top of head.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 2 stitches remain. Work 3 rows.

Last row: k2tog, and draw end of yarn through last stitch.

Mane

Using 2 strands of contrast colour (C) and 5½mm needles, cast on 33 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * insert right hand needle into next stitch on left hand needle, and make loops by putting yarn 3 times round left hand needle and 2 fingers of left hand; then draw the loops through the stitch on the right hand needle and then slip them back to the left hand needle. Then, knit all the loops together as one stitch; knit the next stitch. Repeat from * to end.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: knitting loops as before: * k1, k1 loop stitch; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Cast off 18, knit to end.
6th row: Work loop row as for 2nd row. Turn. Cast on 18 stitches.
7th row: knit.
8th row: Work loop row as for 4th row.
9th row: knit.
10th row: Work as for 2nd row.
Cast off.

Ears (make 2)

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 9 stitches.
Knit 6 rows (garter stitch); cast off.
Work the second ear in the same way.

Tail

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 30 stitches.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.
Cast off.

Tail tip

Using 2 strands of contrast colour (C) and 5½mm needles, cast on 9 stitches.
Work 6 rows in loop pattern.
Cast off.

To make up

Fold front legs in half and seam along cast-on edges and up leg to cast-off edge. Stuff each section as it is seamed.
Fold back paws in half and seam cast-on edges and cast-off edges to form bottom and top of paw.
Sew cast-on edge of body around shaped edge at start of front gusset.
Sew inner edge of back paws to gusset between first and second marker threads.
Sew cast-off edge of front paws between 3rd and 4th markers on front gusset. Sew body between paws to front gusset and sew either side of top of gusset to body ending before cast-on stitches for face.
Seam face cast-on edges together to form lower jaw, and continue seam up to 5th marker. Pin cast-on edge of head gusset over marker for nose and join either side of head gusset to either side of face having eleven unshaped rows at top of head, and final decrease at division of stitches on back.
Sew ears to each side of head.
Sew mane to top of head, bringing separate ends one to either side around below chin. Fold tail in half and seam.
Sew tail tip around one end of tail and sew other end to base of back. Embroider face and add felt eyes as illustrated.

Materials

4 x 25g balls in main colour (M),
2 x 25g balls in contrast (C).

One pair 5½mm knitting needles.
Stitch holders.

Stuffing.

Small scraps of felt and embroidery cotton for face..

Tension

16sts x 22 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches).

Size matters

Height approximately 10 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

garter stitch: every row knit

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying between stitch just worked and following stitch, and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles as if you were going to knit, but without knitting into it.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn specified was Patons Trident Double Knitting, which is used double to achieve a chunky type tension.

Acrylic yarns tend to have a wide colour range, robust qualities, and are reasonably priced, thus can be very suitable for hard working toys.

Robin make a Premium Acrylic available in 25g balls which can be useful for toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LionFace.jpg


LAMB INSTRUCTIONS.

This pretty toy is simply knitted in garter stitch (every row knitted). You use only the basic increasing and decreasing stitches to shape the body.

This shows the shape of the pieces:

LambPieces.jpg

Body (make 2)

With white yarn cast on 28 stitches.

1st row: k1, increase in next stitch, knit to the last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, kl.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows: knit.
Place a marker thread for the front in 1st stitch of next row.
5th row: k1, increase in next stitch, Knit to end.
6th, 7th, and 8th rows: knit.
Repeat 1st-5th rows once more. [34 sts].
14th row: knit.
Repeat the last row 4 times more.
19th row: knit to the the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
20th, 21st, and 22nd rows: knit.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more, then the 19th row again. [31 sts]
Knit 1 row.

Divide for neck:
1st row: kl, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Leave remaining 19 stitches for back on a stitch holder.
2nd row: knit.
3rd row: knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 9 rows.
13th row: Increase 1 stitch, knit to end of row.
14th row: knit to last stitch, increase 1 in last stitch.
15th row: As 13th row.
16th row: knit.
17th row: Cast on 4 stitches, knit to end.
Knit 7 rows.
25th row: Cast off 5 stitches, knit to end.
26th row: knit
27th row: Cast off 2 stitches, knit to end.
Knit 3 rows.
31st row: Cast off 3 sts, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
32nd row: k1, k2tog, k2.
Cast off remaining 4 stitches.

Rejoin yarn for back to neck edge of remaining 19 stitches from stitch holder, an knit 4 rows.
Next row: knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Cast off remaining stitches. If you are grafting the join, knit and leave on a stitch holder.

Head Gusset

With white cast on 3 stitches.
1st row: increase in the 1st stitch, increase in the 2nd stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
7th row: k1, increase in next stitch, k1, increase in next stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
13th row: k1, increase in next stitch, k3, increase in next stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
19th row: k1, increase in next stitch, k5, increase in next stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until there are 23 stitches.

Knit 9 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k1.
Knit 7 rows.
Cast off remaining 11 stitches.

Ears (make 2)

With white cast on 9 stitches.
Knit 14 rows.
15th row: k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
19th row: k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1.
20th row: k1, k3tog, k1.
Cast off remaining 3 stitches.

Legs (make 4)

With white cast on 17 stitches.
Knit 24 rows.
25th row: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 15 rows.
Break off white.
41st row: With black, k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Purl 1 row.
Knit 1 row.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Cast off remaining 11 stitches.


Tail

With white, cast on 12 stitches.
Knit 16 rows.

Next row: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
Repeat the last 6 rows once more.

Thread yarn through remaining 8 stitches and draw up tight.
Fold tail in half lengthwise, and using end of thread sew tail seam.

To make up

Seam or graft body pieces together along back.
Sew head gusset by a set by joining cast-off edge of gusset to back stitches, and cast-on edge beneath stitches cast on at front edge, having widest part at top of head.
Seam to either side of head.
Seam together front and back edges of body and underneath, stuffing before the final seam is complete. With black yarn embroider nose and eyes.
Sew top of ears to either side of head.
Fold legs in half lengthwise, seam along cast-off edge and side. Stuff and sew to body.
Sew tail to back with join in centre. To complete lamb, tie a length of coloured ribbon around neck.

Materials

2 x 20g balls in white double knitting and 1 x 20g ball in black.

One pair 3¾mm
(no 9) knitting needles.
Stitch holder.

Stuffing.
Length of ribbon.

Tension

24 sts x 48 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches) over garter stitch.

Size matters

Height approximately 10 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

k3tog: knit 3sts together (decrease two stitches).

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the stitch.

garter stitch: every row knit

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn specified was Lister Lee Target Concorde DK.

Acrylic yarns tend to have a wide colour range, robust qualities, and are reasonably priced, thus can be very suitable for hard working toys.

Robin make a Premium Acrylic available in 25g balls which can be useful for toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LambFace.jpg

February 2017

French Connection

FrenchConnectionSweater.jpg

An expression of the era of safari suits and cravats* heralding a new "casual look" - where you could be smart without a lounge suit - like Brett Sinclair. [Having said that I can only find pictures of Brett with his safari jacket open necked or worn over a polo-neck, and his cravats worn conventionally with his suits; perhaps this was an expression of the character he was playing rather than fashion.]

If you overlook the styling - and maybe the colour - this is quite a nice sweater - and maybe cap if not all worn as an outfit. A shorter button-through neck would improve it for me.

* See gratuitous picture of Roger at the end of the instructions.

Sweater Instructions.

Back

**
With No. 7 needles, cast on 72/76/80/84 stitches

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): * Tw2R, k1 ; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * p1, Tw2L, p1 ; repeat from * to end.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k.3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
7th row: k1, p2, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, .
8th row: purl.
These 8 rows form pattern. Repeat them twice more.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 24th row until there are 78/82/86/90 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until back measures 17 inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 58/60/62/64 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 26/26½/27/27½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 26/26/28/28 stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work 2/1/2/1 rows straight.

Divide for front opening as follows:

Next row: pattern 26/27/28/29. Turn.
Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Work straight in pattern on these 26/27/28/29 stitches for first side until front measures 23/23/23½/23½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows, then on every alternate row until 16/17/17/18 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6/5/5/6 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 6 stitches on a safety-pin; rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 7 needles, cast on 32/32/36/36 stitches and work 3 inches in rib as on lower edge of back increasing 4 stitches evenly across last row: 36/36/40/40 stitches.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as on back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 6th row until there are 48/44/52/50 stitches.
Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 4th row until there are 62/64/66/70 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18/18/18½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 38/38/42/42 38/38/42/42 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 16 stitches remain.
Cast Off.

Left Front Border

With right side facing and No 7 needles, work across 6 centre stitches on front as follows:

1st row: k2, p1, m1, p1, k2 {7 sts}
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 3 times.
3rd row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2.

Repeat the last 2 rows until border, when slightly stretched, fits up left side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on .a safety-pin.
Using a flat seam, sew border in position.

Right Front Border

With No 7 needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in rib as for left front until border fits up right side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.

Do not break yarn. Leave stitches on a safety pin.
Sew border in position.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly under a damp cloth or following the instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar

With right side facing and No 7 needles, rib 7 stitches from right front border, pick up and knit 16/18/20/22 up right side of neck, knit 26/26/28/28 from back, increase 1 stitch at centre, pick and knit 16/18/20/22 down left side, then rib 7 border stitches.
{73/77/83/87 sts}

Shape collar as follows:

1st row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches , k2.
3rd row: k1, p1, k1, m1, rib to last 3 stitches, m1, k1, p1, k1.
4th row: k2, p2, rib to last 4 stitches, p2, k2.
5th row: as 3rd.
6th row: rib 34/36/39/41, (m1, rib1, m1, rib3) twice, m1, rib1, m1, rib to end.
7th - 9th rows: as 3rd - 5th rows.

Now repeat rows 2 - 5 until collar measures 4 inches at centre back, ending with 2nd or 4th row.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for making up, noting that yarn must be twisted from time to time during make up so that it does not break.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Catch down border stitches at base of opening on wrong side.
Press seams.

Materials

17/18/19/20 x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

15st and 20 rows to four inches on No 4 needles over stocking stitch.
16st and 20 rows over pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest: 17/18/19/20 inches;
length from * top of shoulders: 26/26½/27/27½ ins;
sleeve seam:
18/18/18½/18½ ins

Abbreviations

Tw2R: k2tog, but do not slip stitches off needle; then knit first stitch again,
slipping both stitches off needle together
Editors note: although the "twist 2 left" method (below) is familiar to me, I would not normally do a "twist 2 right" in this fashion. I would normally knit the second stitch on the needle without slipping it off the needle, then knit the first stitch and slip both off together. However, I am not sure if this instruction is intentional to achieve a slightly different pattern.
Tw2L: miss first stitch and knit into back of second stitch, then knit first stitch, slipping both stitches off needle together.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Cap Instructions

Crown

With No, 4 needles, cast on 14 stitches and purl 1 row.

Shape as follows:
1st row (right side facing): increase in first stitch, k1, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, Tw2R, increase in next stitch, k1.
2nd row: increase in first stitch, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, increase in next stitch, p1.
3rd row: increase in first stitch, k1, * p2, Tw2L; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch, p1.
4th row: increase in first stitch, purl to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, p1.
5th row: increase in first stitch, k3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last
2 stitches, increase in next stitch, k1.
6th row: increase in first stitch, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p1, increase in next stitch, k1.
7th row: increase in first stitch, p1, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,Tw2L, increase in next stitch, k1.
8th row:purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern, increase 1 stitch as before at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {34 sts}
Work 3 rows straight, then increase 1 stitch as before at each end of following row: {36 sts}
Work 9 rows straight. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row: {32 sts}
Work 1 row straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {26 sts}

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off

Brim

With No 7 needles, cast on 84 stitches.

1st row: (p2, increase in next stitch) 3 times, * p1, increase in next stitch, p2, increase in next stitch; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch p2. {116 sts}

Change to No 4 needles and work rows 1 - 8 of pattern as on back of sweater, then repeat rows 1 - 3 again. Cast off knitwise.

Peak

With right side facing and No 7 needles, pick up and knit 76 stitches along cast-on edge on the brim.
Knit 3 rows.

Shape as follows:
1st row: knit to last 19 stitches. Turn.
2nd row
: k2, increase in next stitch, (k1, increase in next stitch) 16 times, k3. Turn.
3rd and 4th rows: knit to last 21 stitches. Turn.
5th and 6th rows: knit to last 23 stitches. Turn.

Continue working short rows in this manner, working 2 stitches fewer on every 2 rows until the rows "knit to last 33 stitches. Turn" have been worked.

Next 2 rows: knit to last 36 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows
: knit to last 40 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows: knit to end, picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and knitting it together with next stitch to avoid a
hole. Knit 1 row.
Cast off knitwise.

Making Up

Block crown to a 9 inch circle by pinning out round edges, and press lightly under a damp cloth.
Block and press brim and peak.

Using a flat seam, join ends of brim.
Placing join to centre of cast-off edge of crown, oversew cast-off edge of brim neatly to edge of crown.

Materials

3x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

24st and 32 rows to four inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

"Average hat size".

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SaintSafariJacket.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: sweater

SnowSetSweater.jpg

Continental after-ski casuals - fifties style .

... even though my sporty friends tell me that even more recent items that I think of as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

"Hey look - over there - someone's wearing socks to match my sweater!"
[...and in case you were wondering - I think it's an orange she's holding.]

Instructions.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Black by B, and Red by R.
The colour panels are worked with separate balls of wool in the intarsia fashion. Twist the wools on the wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Front

With No 8 needles and white yarn W, cast on 99 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end, and ending with a wrong side row.

With right side facing, change to pattern introducing the fair-isle pattern (worked from the chart) in stocking-stitch and the red panel in red yarn (R) worked in rib up the centre.

Continue setting out the panels as follows:—
1st row: k15 W, p1 W; join in 1st ball of B, and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; join in R and k5; join in 2nd ball W and B and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; p1 W, k15 W.
2nd row: p15 W, k1 W; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; change to R, (p1, k1) twice, p1 R; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; k1 W, p15 W.
3rd row: k15 W, p1 W; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart; in R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart, p1 W, k15 W.

Keeping centre rib and pattern correct work 9 rows straight.

Next row: k12 W; k2tog W; pattern 31; k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it; p1 R, k1 R, p1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back of loops, k12 W.
Next row: p14 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2; pattern 31; k1 W, p14 W.
Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Next row: k11 W; k2tog W, k1 W, p1 W; pattern 31, k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it; using R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back loops, k11 W.
Next row: p13 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1 R; pattern 31; k1 W, p13 W.

Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Continue in pattern increasing the rib stitches in this way and decreasing in the White panel at each end, on the next and every following 16th row until work measures 13½ inches from the start, and ending with right side facing.

Shape sleeves as follows:
Continue shaping on every 16th row as before and at the same time shape for sleeves by casting on in W: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [265 sts]

This completes the sleeve shaping

Continue in pattern shaping on every 16th row as before until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: Work 124, rib the next 17 stitches, placing them on to a stitch-holder and leave for the time being; work 124 stitches to end.

Continue on the last 124 stitches only, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows.

Next row: Cast off 31, work to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, work to end.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work back, then cast off the remaining 9 stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining 124 stitches, work to end. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows, then finish to correspond with right shoulder.

Back

With No 8 needles and W yarn, cast on 95 stitches and
work 3 inches k1/p1 rib as for front.

Change to stocking-stitch, working in White throughout, and work straight until side edge measures same as front ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape for sleeves by casting on: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [261 sts]

Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing. Shape sleeves and shoulders by casting off 31 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [29 sts]
Leave remaining 29 stitches on a stitch-holder.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing, the set of No 10 needles and Black yarn B, starting at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 16
stitches up right side of neck, then knit 29 stitches across back of
neck. [78 sts]

Work in rounds of k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cuffs

With right side facing, using two No 10 needles and Black yarn B, pick up and knit 40 stitches along sleeve edge. Work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 13 oz in white (W), 3 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 8 (4mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

2 stitch holders.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 22 inches.
Sleeve seam: 16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

And here we see the whole splendid outfit.
[... and she's still holding on to that orange...]

SnowSetOutfit.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: slipper boots

SnowSetSlipperBoots1.jpg

Sports wear.... skiing!
... even though my sporty friends tell me that even the items I think of from more recent years as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

Anyway - to kick off in fifties style - "ankle-warm slipper boots".

Instructions

Make two socks alike.

Main body:

Using the pair of No 10 needles and red (R) yarn, cast on 51 stitches, and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, (k3, increase in next stitch) 6 times, k1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, k2. [57 sts]
Break red yarn (R).

Join in white (W) and purl 1 row.

Now introduce black yarn B and work the fair-isle pattern over the centre 31 stitches, using stocking stitch and reading from the chart, and keeping 13 stitches on either side in rib as before.
[x indicates black stitches].

Work rows 1 through 12 from the chart, 3 times in all, then 1st and 2nd rows again.

Next row: Rib 13 and slip these stitches on to a length of wool or a stitch holder for the time being, pattern across the next 31 stitches, slip the remaining 13 stitches on a length of wool as before.
Continue on the centre 31 stitches only, and continuing the pattern from the chart until the 6th row of the 7th pattern has been done from start.
Break black yarn B.

Next row: (k2, k2tog.) 7 times, k1, k2tog. [23 sts]
Next row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Adjust length of foot here:

For size 5 foot work 2 rows straight in stocking stitch;
for size 6 foot work 4 rows straight;
for size 7 foot work 6 rows straight.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping toe by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every knit row until 15 sts remain, then at each end of every row until 9 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To make heel:

Slip the 26 stitches left on spare wool or stitch holders on to one needle and with right side facing, join in W
[Editor's Note: you are making the heel here so you need to arrange the 2 sets of stitches so that the free ends of the knitting meet in the centre, and you start knitting at the edge of the centre panel you have just been knitting.]
and work as follows:

1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p2tog., (k1, p1) 5 times, k2.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Continue in rib for 2¼ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib, leaving last stitch on needle.

To shape instep, using needle with the 1 stitch remaining, pick up and knit 10 stitches along the side of the heel.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Next row: Knit to the last 3 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, pick up and knit 11 stitches along the other side of the heel and work to correspond.

Making up

Press the pattern parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join instep pieces to foot.
Using red yarn (|R) and the set of 4 No 10 needles, pick up and knit 134 stitches (for size 5), 138 stitches (for size 6), 142 stitches (for size 7), all round lower edge of slipper (where it will be sewn to the soles).
Work 4 rounds k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew zip fasteners in position down centre back, then join the rest of back the seam.

Stitch slipper firmly to sole.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 2 oz in white (W), 1 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Two 4 inch zip fasteners.

A pair of slipper soles.

Tension

24 st and 32 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

To fit UK women's size 5,6,7.
European: 37, 38, 39

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A slightly clearer picture of the boots, showing the snazzy back zip closing.

SnowSetSlipperBoots2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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