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Archive entry for October 2017

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October 2017

Shetland folklore sweater

ShetlandFolkSweater.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn sweater in a double knitting weight yarn. This is an example of early eighties "folklore style" but retaining classic shaping. [You can see the late seventies / eighties styling in the photo with the sweater worn tucked into pleated/gathered trousers].

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 107 [113, 119, 127, 133] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib rib for 2½ inches, (6cm), rows on right side having a k1 at each end and ending with wrong side facing
for next row.

Next row: Rib 8 [9, 9, 11, 11] m1; (rib 18 [19, 20, 21, 22], m1) 5 times, rib to end. (113 [119, 125, 133, 139] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart A, repeating the 10 pattern stitches 11 [11, 12, 13, 13] times across, and working the first
1 [4, 2, 1, 4] stitches and the last 2 [5, 3, 2, 5] stitches on knit rows, and the first 2 [5, 3, 2, 5] stitches and the last 1 [4, 2, 1, 4] stitches on purl rows as indicated, until Back measures 17½ inches, (39cm), ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 5 rows, then on every alternate row until 89 [95, 101, 107, 113] stitches remain.
‡‡

Work straight in pattern until Back measures 22½ [23, 23½, 23½, 24] inches, (57 [58, 60, 60, 61]cm), ending with right side
facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 9 [9, 10, 11, 11] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 8 [10, 10, 10, 12] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave remaining 37 [39, 41, 43, 45] stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Work straight in pattern until 14 [14, 14, 16, 16] rows fewer than on Back have been worked before start of shoulder shaping, thus ending
with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape neck as follows:
Next row: Pattern 34 [36, 38, 40, 42] k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 [37, 39, 41, 43] stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
(26 [28, 30, 32, 34] sts).

Work 4 [4, 4, 6, 6] rows.

Shape shoulder by casting off 9 [9, 10, 11, 11] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 8 [10, 10, 10, 12] stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre 17 [19, 21, 23, 25] stitches on a length of yarn, or stitch holder, and rejoin appropriate colour to remaining stitches: k2tog, pattern to end.

Complete to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 49 [51, 53, 55, 57] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5cm), rows on right side having a kl at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next
row.

Next row: Rib 6 [6, 7, 6, 7] m1; (rib 12 [13, 13, 14, 14], m1) 3 times; rib to end. (53 [55, 57, 59, 61] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart B repeating the 10 pattern stitches 5 [5, 5, 5, 6] times across, and working first 1 [2, 3, 4, 0] stitches, and last 2 [3, 4, 5, 1] stitches on knit rows, and first 2 [3, 4, 5, 1] stitches and last 1 [2, 3, 4, 0] stitches on purl rows as indicated, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 13th and every following 7th [7th, 7th, 7th, 6th] row until there are 75 [77, 81, 83, 87] stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures approximately 17½ inches, (44cm), ending with the same pattern row as on Back before the start of the armhole shaping, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until 43 [43, 47, 47, 51] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 27 stitches remain. Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.

Join right shoulder seam.
Make Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, knit up 17 [17, 17, 19, 19] stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 [19, 21, 23, 25] stitches from centre front, knit up 17 [17, 17, 19, 19] stitches
up right side of neck, then knit 37 [39, 41, 43, 45] from back.
(88 [92, 96, 104, 108] sts).

Work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5cm).
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder seam and Neck Border.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Fold Neck Border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

Materials

50g balls Shetland DK in main shade plus 5 contrasts:

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38, 40] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97, 102]cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 22½ [23,
23½, 23½, 24] inches, (57 [58, 60, 60, 61]cm);
sleeve seam: 17½ inches, (44cm), all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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