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Archive entry for January 2018

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January 2018

Shetland folklore tunic

ShetlandFolkTunic.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn tunic in a double knitting weight yarn.

Although this pattern is from the seventies, it evokes a much earlier era to me. I remember my friend Sara having a cardigan just like this, (in colour and pom-poms), knitted by her Mother in the 1960s. I have had cardigan envy ever since. However - I am sure a tunic would suit me even better!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the yoke pattern from the chart, strand yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 241 [249, 257, 265] stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): (k1, p1) 23 times; k1, p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch with a coloured thread); p2togtbl, k1; (p1, k1) 68 [72, 76, 80] times; p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch as before); p2togtbl, k1; (p1. k1) 23 times.
2nd row: * p1, k1; rep from * to within 2 stitches of first marked st; sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to within 2 stitches of 2nd marked stitch, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to end.
Keeping continuity of rib, continue to decrease in this way working in stripes of a further 2 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D.

Next row: In D, cast off 38 stitches evenly in rib; in M, p9 [11, 12, 13] (including stitch on needle after cast off), p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 32 [34, 36, 38] times, p10 [10, 11, 12]; then in D, cast off remaining stitches in rib. [84 [90, 96, 102] sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and with M, work in stocking stitch starting with a knit row until back measures 6 inches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: Cast on 8, knit these stitches, knit to end, cast on 8. [100, 106, 112, 118].
Continue on these stitches and work 11 rows.

Shape sides as follows:
Next row: k9, k2togtbl, knit to last 11 stitches, k2tog, k9.
Work 11 rows.
Repeat the decrease row once more. [100, 102, 108, 114 sts].
Work straight until Back measures 17 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
‡‡

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more. [90, 94, 98, 102 sts].

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 86 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 0 [2, 4, 6] times more. [92 sts].

Shape neck by working short rows as follows:
1st row: k2tog, k28, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
2nd row: Cast off 8, purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.
4th row: Cast off 7, purl to end.
5th row: k2tog, knit to end.
6th row: Cast off 5, purl to end. [7 sts].

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following alternate row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows. [2 sts].
Next row: p2tog and fasten off.
Leave centre 32 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, and with
right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and M, cast on 42 [44, 46, 48] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib and stripes of 4 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D. [12 rows]

Continue in M until rib measures 3 inches, increasing across last row as follows : (rib 2, m1) 7 times; (rib 1, m1) 16 [18, 20, 22] times; (rib 2, m1) 5 times; rib 2. [70, 74, 78, 82 sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work straight until sleeve measures 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches measured at centre, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.

Repeat the last 4 rows 1 [2, 3, 4] times more. [64 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row. [60 sts]
Work 1 row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke

With right side facing, slip first 43 stitches of back on a length of yarn.

With circular or set of No 8 (4 mm) needles and M, knit the remaining 43 stitches from back, marking first of these stitches as the start of the rounds; knit 60 from sleeve, knit up 31 down left side of neck, knit 32 from front, knit up 31 up right side of neck, knit 60 from second sleeve, then finally knit 43 from length of yarn (or stitch holder). [300 sts]

Divide these stitches evenly on 3 of the set of needles.

Joining in D and L as required work the 50 rounds from the chart, repeating the 20 pattern stitches 15 times in each round and decreasing where indicated.
Work all rounds knit, reading chart from right to left.

On completion of the above rounds the number of stitches remaining will be:
17th round: 270 stitches.
21st round: 240 stitches.
31st round: 210 stitches.
35th round: 180 stitches.
45th round: 150 stitches.
49th round: 120 stitches.

Next round: in M, decrease 8 [8, 4, 4] stitches evenly. [112, 112, 116, 116 sts]

Make holes as follows:
Next round: In M, yfwd, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Work 1 round.
Break M.

Change to set of No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and in L, work 3 rounds.
Work holes as before for picot edging.
Work 2 rounds.
Cast off loosely.

Making Up

Omitting cuffs, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Use 30 inch lengths of yarn and a large sewing needle for make up, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.
Join armhole and sleeve seams.
Using a flat seam, sew side borders neatly in position catching border edges to cast-on stitches.
Join side seams to within 5½ inches of lower edge.
Fold picot hem at row of holes to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

In M, make 2 pompons.

Make Cord: Using 6 strands of M, make a twisted cord 45 in long. Thread through row of holes at neck. Sew a pompon to each end of cord.

Materials

6 [7, 7, 8] 50g balls Shetland DK in main shade (M) "Ocean Deep", plus 1 ball each in 2 contrasts:
"Heatherette" (D) and
"Snow White" (L)

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Sets of 4 each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or circulars.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97] cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 26 [26½,
27, 27½] inches, (66 [67, 69, 70] cm);
sleeve seam: 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches, (47 [47, 48, 48] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker than that but the tension given here suggests slightly thinner!

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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