Shetland folklore tunic
Lovely heathery shetland yarn tunic in a double knitting weight yarn.
Although this pattern is from the seventies, it evokes a much earlier era to me. I remember my friend Sara having a cardigan just like this, (in colour and pom-poms), knitted by her Mother in the 1960s. I have had cardigan envy ever since. However - I am sure a tunic would suit me even better!
Instructions.Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. When working the yoke pattern from the chart, strand yarns not in use
loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches
at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking
off colours as required. Back‡‡ 1st row (wrong side facing): (k1,
p1) 23 times; k1, p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch with a coloured thread);
p2togtbl, k1; (p1, k1) 68 [72, 76,
80] times; p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch as before); p2togtbl, k1;
(p1. k1) 23 times. Next row: In D, cast off 38 stitches evenly in rib; in M, p9 [11, 12, 13] (including stitch on needle after cast off), p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 32 [34, 36, 38] times, p10 [10, 11, 12]; then in D, cast off remaining stitches in rib. [84 [90, 96, 102] sts]. Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and with M, work in stocking stitch starting
with a knit row until back measures 6 inches, ending with a purl row. Shape sides as follows: Shape armholes by casting off 1 [2,
3, 4] stitches at the beginning of
the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row
until 86 stitches remain, ending with right side facing. FrontWork as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡. Next row: k2tog, knit to the last
2 stitches, k2tog. Repeat the last 2 rows 0 [2, 4, 6] times more. [92 sts]. Shape neck by working short rows as follows: Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following alternate
row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge
on the next 3 rows. [2 sts]. Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings. SleevesWith No 10 (3¼mm) needles and M, cast on 42 [44, 46, 48] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib and stripes of 4 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D. [12 rows] Continue in M until rib measures 3 inches, increasing across last row as follows : (rib 2, m1) 7 times; (rib 1, m1) 16 [18, 20, 22] times; (rib 2, m1) 5 times; rib 2. [70, 74, 78, 82 sts]. Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work straight until sleeve measures 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches measured at centre, ending with right side facing for next row. Shape top by casting off 1 [2,
3, 4] stitches at the beginning of
the next 2 rows. Repeat the last 4 rows 1 [2, 3, 4] times more. [64 sts] Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate
row. [60 sts] YokeWith right side facing, slip first 43 stitches of back on a length of yarn. With circular or set of No 8 (4 mm) needles and M, knit the remaining 43 stitches from back, marking first of these stitches as the start of the rounds; knit 60 from sleeve, knit up 31 down left side of neck, knit 32 from front, knit up 31 up right side of neck, knit 60 from second sleeve, then finally knit 43 from length of yarn (or stitch holder). [300 sts] Divide these stitches evenly on 3 of the set of needles. Joining in D and L as required work the 50 rounds from the chart, repeating
the 20 pattern stitches 15 times in each round and decreasing where indicated.
On completion of the above rounds the number of stitches remaining will
be: Next round: in M, decrease 8 [8, 4, 4] stitches evenly. [112, 112, 116, 116 sts] Make holes as follows: Change to set of No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and in L, work 3 rounds.
Making UpOmitting cuffs, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions
on the ball band. In M, make 2 pompons. Make Cord: Using 6 strands of M, make a twisted cord 45 in long. Thread through row of holes at neck. Sew a pompon to each end of cord. |
Materials 6 [7, 7,
8] 50g balls Shetland DK in main shade (M) "Ocean Deep",
plus 1 ball each in 2 contrasts: Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles. Sets of 4 each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or circulars. Tension23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles. Size mattersTo fit chest 32 [34, 36,
38] inches, (81 [86, 91,
97] cm); Abbreviationsk2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch). k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through
back loops. sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it. psso: pass the slipped stitch over. sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit). m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole. A word on the woolThe original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker than that but the tension given here suggests slightly thinner! In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic. In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK. "Always check your tension" [Good Advice]. Disclaimer
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