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Archive entry for September 2018

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September 2018

Plain Jane

PlainJane.jpg

Although I always hesitate to say this, I do think the design of this particular classic plain sweater in a fine (4 ply fingering) yarn, is pretty timeless. It is knitted in one colour, but could be a good basic pattern to be used for colour work: stripes or fairisle; do remember though that stranded colour work does tend to pull in the stitiches somewhat, so do check your tension before you start adapting.

The sweater is titled a "short length classic sweater". Of course, you can knit it to the length you want - but - it is designed to fit to the waist and so there is some shaping in the form of increases up to the armhole. If you want it longer or do not see yourself with a neat waist, you could cast on the full number of stitches at the start, and just knit straight up to the armhole omitting the increasing.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

Back

‡‡
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 92 [98, 106, 112, 120] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2¾ inches (7 cm).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 114 [120, 128, 134, 142] stitches.

Work straight until Back measures 11 inches, (28 cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 100 [102, 102, 108, 104] stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 86 [90, 92, 98, 100] stitches remain.
‡‡

Work straight until Back measures 18½ [19, 19¼, 19¾, 20] inches, (47 [48, 49, 50, 51] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 12, 13, 13] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then cast off 12 [13, 13, 14, 13] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Leave the remaining 40 [40, 42, 44, 48] stitches on a length of yarn, or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Work straight until Front measures 16 [16½, 17, 17½, 17½] inches, (41 [42, 43, 44, 44] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: k30 [32, 32, 34, 35], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: p2tog, purl to end.

Continue on these stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows, and then on every alternate row until 23 [25, 25, 27, 26] stitches remain.

Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 12, 13, 13] stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 12 [13, 13, 14, 13] stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 26 [26, 28, 30, 30] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and complete to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 50 [50, 54, 56, 56] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches (5 cm).

Next row: rib 7, (m1, rib 12 [12, 13, 14, 14]) 3 times, m1, rib 7 [7, 8, 7, 7].
(54 [54, 58, 60, 60] sts).

Change to No 10 needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 9th [7th, 8th, 7th, 6th] row until there are 82 [88, 90, 94, 100] stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 17½ inches, (44 cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 28 [32, 30, 30, 34] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 [20, 22, 22, 22] stitches remain.
Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing and No 12 needles, knit up 18 [18, 18, 18, 19] stitches down left side of neck, knit 26 [26, 28, 30, 30] stitches from front, knit up 18 [18, 18, 18, 19] stitches up right side of neck, knit 40 [40, 42, 44, 48] stitches from back.
(102 [102, 106, 110, 116] sts).
Work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5 cm).
Cast off loosely in rib.

Join left shoulder seam and Neckband.
Fold Neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem neatly in position.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert Sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

11 [12, 13, 14,
15] (25 gram) balls 4 ply yarn.

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

28 stitches x 36 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38, 40] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97, 102] cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 18½ [19,
19½, 19¾, 20] inches, (47 [48, 49, 50, 51] cm);
sleeve seam: 17½ inches, (44 cm), all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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