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Archive entry for 2019

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February 2019

Weekend Jacket

LoopJacket.jpg

I like hooded jackets and textured fabrics. The benefit of this texturing is that it's all in the stitch, and you don't have to worry about sourcing a replacement for a unique vintage yarn. I can't say how effective the pattern is other than from the photo - so may be best to try a sample swatch first (always a Good Idea - no?!). I'm sure the jacket would work just as well plain.

...attractive loop-stitch texture gives extra warmth to this eyecatching week-end jacket - and a hood can be added for a colder-day version...

Instructions

Instructions are for 4 sizes.

Back

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 79/83/87/91 stitches and work 7 rows in garter stitch, (ie every row knit).

Change to No 5 (5½mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.

These 8 rows form the pattern for the back.

Work a further 8 rows straight in pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until 71/75/79/83 stitches remain, then on every following 4th row until 67/71/75/79 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 18½ inches (47 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglans as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
2nd row: p3, pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd. [65/69/73/77 sts]

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 23/23/25/25 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Pocket linings (make 2)

Using No 5 needles, cast on 21 stitches and work 23 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/37/39/41 stitches and work 7 rows garter-stitch. **

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
These 8 rows form pattern for left front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Continue in pattern, shaping side edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row. [33/35/37/39 sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Place pocket lining as follows:
1st row: knit 6/7/8/9, slip next 21 stitches on to a stitch holder and in place of these, knit across the stitches of one pocket lining, knit 6/7/8/9.
Work 3 rows straight in pattern, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row, then on every following 4th row until
29/31/33/35 stitches remain.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until front matches back at the side edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglan as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to end.
2nd row: pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd.

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 13/13/14/14 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Continue decreasing at raglan edge as before on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/8/6/6 stitches remain, then on every following alternate row until 4 stitches remain, all sizes.

Now keep the neck edge straight and work 1 more raglan decrease as before. [3 sts]..
1st row: purl.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl.
1st row: p2, turn; k2tog and fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.
These 8 rows form pattern for right front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'k2tog' when shaping raglan instead of 'k2togtbl'.

Sleeves

Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/35/39/39 stitches and work 7 rows garter stitch.

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides as follows:
Increase 1 stitch at each end of 7th/5th/3rd/3rd and every following 10th/8th/8th/ 6th row until there are 49/53/47/47 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

3rd and 4th sizes: Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th/8th row until there are 55/59 stitches.

All sizes: Work a few rows straight until sleeve seam measures 16 inches (41 cm), ending with the right side facing.

Shape raglans as for back until 7 stitches remain all sizes.
1st row: in pattern.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl, k. 1, k2tog , k1. [5 sts]
1st row: in pattern.
Leave stitches on a safety pin.

Front Borders

Left: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work a strip in garter stitch to fit up left front to start of neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Sew in position as you go along.
For hooded version: Cast off.
Version without hood: Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Right: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch. Work in loop pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * L1, k1; repeat from * to end.
1st row: knit.
1st row: k2, * L1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
1st row: knit.
These 4 rows form pattern. Finish to correspond with left border, but casting off in pattern for hooded version.

Neck Border for version without hood

Join raglan seams.
With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit 11 from right border, pick up and knit 10 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, 23/23/25/25 from back decreasing 2 stitches evenly, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 10 down left side of neck, knit 11 from left border. [73/73/75/75 sts]

1st row: k11, keeping continuity of loop pattern as for right border work to end.
Keeping 11 stitches of left border in garter stitch, work a further 15 rows straight in loop pattern.
Cast Off in loop pattern and garter stitch.

Hood

Join raglan seams.

With right side facing and No 8 needles, start at the centre of the right border and pick up and knit 5 stitches, pick up and knit 9 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, knit 23/23/25/25 from back, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 9 down left side of neck, then k5 from left border to centre. [61/61/63/63 sts]

Work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

1st row: rib 4/4/1/1, m1, * rib 4, m1; repeat from * last 5/5/2/2 stitches, rib 5/5/2/2. [75/75/79/79 sts]

Change to No 5 needles.
1st row: p12, starting with 4th row, work in loop pattern as for back to last 12 stitches, p12.

Keeping 12 stitches at each end in stocking stitch, continue in loop pattern until work measures 11 inches (28 cm) from start of ribbing, ending with right side facing.

Cast off 24 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight in pattern for a further 3 in. (7 cm) on the remaining 27/27/31/31 stitches, then work a further 3 inches (7 cm) in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Hood Border

With No. 8 needles, cast on 103/103/107/107 stitches,and knit 2 rows, then work 16 rows in loop pattern as for right border, starting with 1st row.
Cast Off in loop pattern.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting loop and garter stitch borders and taking care not to spoil the pattern. Join side and sleeve seams.

Pocket Tops: With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit across each set of 21 pocket stitches decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [20 sts].
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off knitwise.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Cut petersham the same length as right border plus 1 inch (2 cm) for turnings.
Mark position for 8 buttonholes on petersham, first to come 1½ in. (4 cm) up from lower edge, 8th 1 inch (2 cm) below top of neck border or below top of ribbing on hooded version, and remainder spaced evenly.
Cut buttonholes in petersham and buttonhole round them.
Pin petersham on wrong side of right border and sew along inner edge and along top and bottom edges, then catch firmly in centre between each buttonhole along outer edge.

Hooded Version: Join sides to top of hood.
Pin loop border on top of hood, cast-on edge to come level with outside edge.
Sew in position all round, sewing short edges level with short edges on front borders.
Both versions: Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

25/26/27/28 x 50g balls of chunky yarn.
Without hood:
20/21/22/23 x 50g balls.

Pair each No 5 (5½mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.

2 stitch-holders.

2 press studs.

2½ inch wide petersham for buttonhole border.

Tension

17 sts and 21 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes to fit bust:
32/34/36/38 inches, (81/86/91/96 cm);
length from top of shoulders, 27/27½/28/28½ inches, 69/70/71/72 cm);
sleeve seam, 16 inches, (41cm) all sizes.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

L1: knit next stitch, winding yarn over needle and first finger of left hand once, then over needle again, then place the 2 loops back on the left needle and knit them together with the stitch through back of loops.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Doublet.
This is a chunky - stated to be "double double knitting" - so 2 times thicker than DK. Ravelry lists it as 60 yards to 50g which sounds reasonable but I am unable to confirm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2019

Jelly Bag Hat

JellyBagHat.jpg

This knitting pattern is not at all challenging (except maybe the 4 needles).
No - it's really all about the delightful picture - such a charming fresh-faced model with those decorous come-hither eyes - all combined with lovely bright colours designed to be cheering for the home makers during WW2.

This kind of quirky Wee Willy Winkie hat did become popular for a while, a few years ago but I haven't seen many around lately. Big pom poms are still the thing though....!

Materials

4 ozs mixed shades fingering, 2-ply.
Any odd balls of bright colours will do.

[Editors note: the "2ply" is probably literally two plies but in yarn weight perhaps more like a 3 ply going by the stated tension,]

A set of four No 11 (3mm ) needles.

Instructions.

Cast on 120 stitches, 40 on each of 3 needles.
Work in rounds of stocking-stitch, changing colour, every 1½ inches.

When 6 inches are done start to decrease very gradually.
To do this knit 2 together at the end of each needle. (3 stitches decreased).
On the next decrease row knit 2 together into the backs of stitches This prevents the cap twisting always in one direction. Make these decreases about every 4 inches until there are 102 stitches left.

When cap is desired length k2tog all round, then draw wool through remaining stitches and fasten off.
For a shorter cap make decreases every 2 inches.

Finish off the end with a multicoloured wool pom-pom, but don't make
it too thick.

You may need to run thread elastic round cast-on edge to keep cap firm on the head.

Tension

8 stitches to an inch.

Size matters

Original cap is 30 inches long but you could make one 18 inches long that is perhaps more suitable for every day wear.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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