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Archive entry for 2019

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April 2019

Colourful Bolero

ColourfulBolero.jpg

Printed towards the end of WW2, in an era of extreme shortages **, this is knitwear designed with a view to using left overs or even maybe "pulled back" wool.
Despite that I think it looks really attractive - and is a very interesting design being knitted sideways.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size.
The pattern stitches are given below.
Try out a piece of the pattern for practice by casting on 24 stitches.

Pattern:

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl.
2nd row
: * k2, p4, k1, p4; repeat from * ending row k2.
3rd row
: p2, * k4, p1, k4, p2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: k1, * twist A, p3, k1, p3, twist B; repeat from *, ending k1.
5th row: p3, * k3, p1, k3, p4; repeat from * all along, ending p3.
6th row: * k2, twist A, p2, k1, p2, twist B; repeat from * ending k2.
7th row: p4, * k2, p1, k2, ending p6; repeat from *, ending row p4.
8th row: k3, * twist A, p1, k1, p1, twist B, k. 4; repeat from *, ending k3.
9th row: p5, * k1, p1, k1, p8; repeat from *, ending p5.
10th row: k4, * twist A, k1, twist B, k6, repeat from *, ending k4.
Change to white yarn.
11th row: purl.
12th row: knit.

Repeat these 12 rows throughout.

Back

The bolero is knitted sideways.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 90 stitches and work 5 rows of the pattern.

Now increase at the beginning of the next and end of every following row at this side until there are 108 stitches, and 23 rows are done.
On to the end of this row cast on 37 stitches to complete the armhole shaping.

Work straight until 2 more complete patterns are done, and then work 1 row of the next pattern, which brings you back to the top of the shoulder.
Cast off 16 stitches for the back neck insert (to be knitted later).
Finish this pattern and work 5 more patterns, and then 9 rows of 6th.

At the beginning of the 10th row cast on 16 stitches, and then finish the shoulder to correspond with first side, casting off 37 for the armhole and decreasing on every row thereafter until 90 stitches remain.

Finish off with 5 rows straight.

There are 15 patterns in total across the back, omitting the last 2-row white stripe.

Left front

Work as for back, but cast off 26 instead of 16 stitches on the shoulder.
Then work straight, finishing this pattern and 3 more, but omit the last white stripe.
Cast off.

Right front

Work to correspond with left front.

[Editors note: They are assuming rather a lot here and expect you will work this out for yourself. You could continue to work the in the same sideways direction: as you have just cast off at the centre front, so you could cast on for the right front at the centre front which would mean casting on 119 stitches - then casting on 26 at the shoulder, and completing the shaping as you did for the back.
Or,
You could work exactly as you did for the left front but reversing all the shapings - so you would be doing the armhole increasing at the end of the rows and you would cast on the 37 stitches at the same edge and casting off the 26 stitches at this same edge.]

Neck Ribbing

Join back and front shoulder seams.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and front of work facing, pick up and knit 80 stitches across the back of the neck. Work in k1/p1 rib, decreasing at each end of every alternate row 5 times.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and continue in rib, decreasing as before until 48 stitches remain. Cast off fairly tightly in rib.

For each front section pick up and knit 44 stitches in the same way, and decrease 5 times on alternate rows at the side edge before changing to No 12 needles. Then decrease as before until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

For each shoulder piece pick up and knit 42 stitches across each shoulder and then shape as for back, casting off the remaining 10 stitches.

[Editors note: It may or may not be obvious here but you are knitting on the sides of a rectangle here and decreasing towards the middle; when you sew these together you will have mitred corners - you can just see this in the photograph.]

Front Borders

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a length of k1/p1 rib long enough to go up the left front.
Work a piece the same for the right front, but make 3 buttonholes: one in the 3rd row from the top, and the remaining 2 at one inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5; on the next row cast on 3 over those cast off in the previous row.

Continue strip for the length required, then cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Worked sideways in pattern.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 13.

1st row: Pattern to end.
2nd row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
3rd row: Cast on 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times more.

10th row: As 2nd.
11th row: Cast on 17, pattern to end.
12th row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
13th row: Pattern to last stitch, work twice into this.

Repeat 12th and 13th rows 15 times more, then the 12th row again.
There are now 84 stitches on the needle and 44 rows have been done.
Work the next 42 rows straight in pattern.

87th row: Pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
88th row: k2tog, pattern to end.

Repeat 87th and 88th rows 15 times more, then 87th row again.
119 rows have now been done, and there are 51 stitches on the needle.

120th row: k2tog, pattern to end.
121st row: Cast off 17, pattern to end.
122nd row: k2tog , pattern to end.
123rd row: Cast off 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 122nd and 123rd rows 3 times more, leaving 13 stitches on the needle.
Work 1 row in pattern; cast off.

This finishes the 11th coloured stripe.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew together side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew on buttons.
Join ribbing at corners neatly before stitching front strips to edge.

Materials

3 ply yarn: 1 oz in main shade (M) plus 1oz each in 5 different shades of the same wool, or odd balls of different colours to make up this amount.

[Editors note: Looking at the photo and instructions, presumably one of these colours needs to be white.]

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 33-35 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 18½ inches;
sleeve seam: 5½ inches.

Abbreviations

Twist A: Knit into back of 2nd stitch on left-hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch, drop both stitches off needle together.

Twist B: Knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch on left needle, slip both off together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

** The 'Make Do and Mend' campaign - which is currently quite a well known slogan from WW2 - was launched to encourage people to make their existing clothing last longer. Clothes care was a key part of the Make Do and Mend message. Shortages of basic materials and consequential clothing rationing necessitated imaginative use of materials; this included recycling and renovating old clothes, and the innovative use of home-made accessories, which could alter or smarten up an outfit. You see a lot of these ideas in magazines of that era appearing as little knitted collars and cuffs or just inexpensive embellishment ideas. This type of pattern continues from its humble beginnings well into the 1950s - and not surprising since although the war ended in 1945, clothes rationing did not end until 1949.

Rationing worked by allocating each item or category of clothing a 'points' value which varied according to how much material and labour went into its manufacture. Each person was allocated a fixed number of coupons to "spend" when they purchased clothing. In 1941, at the inception, adults receive 66 but this allocation shrank as the war progressed: to 48 in 1942, 36 in 1943 and 24 by 1945. As for knitwear specifically - a jumper, for example, used up 5 coupons and socks 1-3. Making your own knitwear did not help much since knitting wool was also rationed (almost pro rata) with two ounces of knitting yarn requiring one coupon; however, with essentials such as boots and overcoats requiring 7 coupons you can see why people were reluctant to spend any coupons at all on knitwear when they could reuse old "pulled back" yarn.

One interesting result of this evolved from the fact that "mending cards" of yarn were not rationed at all - presumably to encourage the make-do-and-mend mentality. They were traditionally dull buff or grey colours being intended to darn mens socks. [I have inherited many of these cards which sit at the bottom of my work basket - commercial socks are much tougher these days]. However during this period the commercial yarn companies started to produce "mending cards" in all kinds of wild colours which fitted perfectly with multicoloured designs such as this bolero, or the ubiquitous Fair Isle sweater patterns of the period. The influence of rationing some items and not others could be seen much wider than just in knitting yarn in that people would find ways of using many different or less usual materials for clothing if they happened to be "off the ration".

The popularity of multicoloured sweaters, and specifically Fair Isle, was very much to do with being able to use smaller amounts of yarn from different sources and make a garment that looked fresh and new, rather than the collection of oddments which it really was. Sewing patterns were also offered with this in mind - I have a lovely blouse pattern from the period with terrific square shoulders and nipped in waist that is designed to be made in 2 fabrics out of "2 of your husbands old shirts" with the pattern pieces shown laid out accordingly on the shirts, (noting that men's shirts of the period were positively voluminous).

March 2019

Spring Thickie

SpringThickie1.jpg

Another highly wearable jumper with a flattering neckline from the 1950's.
The sleeves look to be a pleasing (to me) three-quarter length but with a set in style that is almost a dolman, yet with a flattering line fitted to the neck shaping.
Although cited as a "thickie" in 1950s terms it's made in a standard double knitting weight yarn - so "Spring Thickie" or "Square Neck Casual" - I leave the name up to you.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

The sweater is worked in an all-over pattern involving loops and slipped stitches. It is advisable to practise this stitch to get used to it before starting the main work. Take particular care not to drop any stitches as it is difficult to pick them up again without spoiling the pattern.
Where numbers of stitches are given these apply to the basic number only, ie each double stitch is counted as one stitch.
[Editors note: This is easier to understand once you have practised the stitch.]

Pattern stitch

With No 9 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 2 inches to practise the pattern.
1st row: k1 * insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle twice as before. [12 sts]
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to
last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice round needle.

The 3rd row forms the pattern and this row is now repeated throughout.

[Editors note: Just to encourage you - this pattern is easier to do in practice than to explain.]

Back

Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109) stitches and work straight in pattern starting with 1st and 2nd rows [once 2nd row is done there are 100 (108) stitches]; continue until 31 (31) ridges have been done from start.

Continue in pattern and shape for armholes:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 20 (24) [to cast off — knit the
1st loop instead of dropping it, * knit together the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way; repeat from * until 20 (24) stitches have been cast off], then pattern 60 (60), cast off the last 20 (24) stitches in the same way.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and continue straight in pattern until 51 (51) ridges have been done from start.
Break off main shade yarn, and join in white yarn.

**Continue thus:
1st row (right side facing): k1, in the usual way, * k2 loops together winding wool round needle once - thus making an ordinary stitch; repeat from * to end. [61 (61) sts]
2nd row: In white yarn, k2tog, [p1, k1] 28 times, p1, k2tog.
3rd row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 29 times, p1.
4th row: In white yarn, p2tog, [k1, p1] 27 times, k1, p2tog.
5th row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 28 times, p1.
Change to No 11 needles and continue in rib with 2 rows main shade, 4 rows white, 2 rows main shade, and 4 rows white, and decreasing at each end of every alternate row.
Cast off in rib. **

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 26 (26) stitches and work about 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Break off yarn and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.

Front

Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109) stitches and work in pattern exactly as given for back, starting with 1st and 2nd
rows, until 11 (11) ridges have been done from start.
Here introduce pockets.

Next row (right side facing): pattern 9 (11), leave main shade yarn hanging, and join in white, [knit the next 2 loops together, winding wool once round needle] 26 times, slip these 26 white stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the time being; pick up the main shade yarn again and work across the 26 (26) stitches of one pocket lining thus [k1 winding wool twice round needle] 26 times, pattern across the next 30 (34) stitches of main work, again leave main shade yarn hanging, join in 2nd ball of white and work across the next 26 (26) stitches as before and leave on a spare needle or stitch holder; pick up main shade and work across 26 (26) stitches of 2nd pocket lining as before, pattern 9 (11).
Continue in pattern until 31 (31) ridges have been done from start, then with right side facing, shape armholes exactly as given for back, then work straight in pattern on the centre 60 (60) stitches until 41 (41) ridges have been done from start.
Break off main shade and and join in white.

With right side facing, work striped rib border for neck exactly
as given for back from ** to **.

Left sleeve

**
Using white yarn and No 11 needles, cast on 60 (60) Sts, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.
Join in main shade and rib 2 rows, then rib 4 rows white , increasing 1 stitch at each end of the last row; rib 2 rows main shade.

Change to No 9 needles and rib 3 rows in white.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib 3, [rib 7, increase in next st.] 7 times, rib 3. [69 (69) sts]
Break off white yarn.

Join in main shade and work first 3 rows of pattern as given for back.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop of 1st stitch instead of dropping it, keeping 2nd loop on left needle as before, pattern to end as given for 3rd pattern row.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop of 1st stitch instead of dropping it,
keeping 2nd loop on left needle as before, pattern to last stitch as given for 3rd pattern row, insert left needle into loop of last stitch of previous row, then knit these 2 stitches together, winding wool twice round needle [this gives an increase without leaving a hole].

Continue repeating the last row until there are 123 (123) stitches
Work straight until 36 (38) ridges have been done from start.
**

With right side facing shape top.
* Next row: Cast off 12 (12) as described before, pattern to last 12 (12) stitches , cast off the last 12 (12) stitches in the same way.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing rejoin yarn, and pattern back.
Repeat from * once more.
Next row: Cast off 25 (25) stitches, pattern to last 5 (5) stitches, cast
off the last 5 (5) stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and pattern back. [45 (45) stitches remain.].
Break off main shade.
Join in white and work striped ribbing, shaping as before.

Right sleeve

Work as for left sleeve from ** to ** [123 (123) sts].
Repeat from to once.
Next row: Cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to last 25 (25) stitches, cast off the last 25 (25) stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and pattern back.
Break off main shade.
Join in white and finish as before.

To Make Up

Do not press.
Using tailored seams, join side seams.
Pin sleeves very carefully into armholes, making sure you have the right sleeve in the right armhole, match the neck ribbing neatly at corners and pin straight edge of sleeve [side edge] to the 20 cast-off stitches at the back and front. Sew in position, then join the rest of the sleeve seam.

With No 11 needles and white wool, work a further 3 rows rib across each pocket top, then 2 rows main shade, 3 rows white; cast off in rib in white Catch down sides of pocket tops and pocket linings.

Press seams lightly.

Materials

19 (20) ozs Double Knitting, in main shade (Glamour Red - or Black);
2 oz in White.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

This pattern stitch is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 34-35 (36-37) inches; length from top of shoulders, 23 (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 14½ (15) ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SpringThickie2.jpg

February 2019

Weekend Jacket

LoopJacket.jpg

I like hooded jackets and textured fabrics. The benefit of this texturing is that it's all in the stitch, and you don't have to worry about sourcing a replacement for a unique vintage yarn. I can't say how effective the pattern is other than from the photo - so may be best to try a sample swatch first (always a Good Idea - no?!). I'm sure the jacket would work just as well plain.

...attractive loop-stitch texture gives extra warmth to this eyecatching week-end jacket - and a hood can be added for a colder-day version...

Instructions

Instructions are for 4 sizes.

Back

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 79/83/87/91 stitches and work 7 rows in garter stitch, (ie every row knit).

Change to No 5 (5½mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.

These 8 rows form the pattern for the back.

Work a further 8 rows straight in pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until 71/75/79/83 stitches remain, then on every following 4th row until 67/71/75/79 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 18½ inches (47 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglans as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
2nd row: p3, pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd. [65/69/73/77 sts]

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 23/23/25/25 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Pocket linings (make 2)

Using No 5 needles, cast on 21 stitches and work 23 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/37/39/41 stitches and work 7 rows garter-stitch. **

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
These 8 rows form pattern for left front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Continue in pattern, shaping side edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row. [33/35/37/39 sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Place pocket lining as follows:
1st row: knit 6/7/8/9, slip next 21 stitches on to a stitch holder and in place of these, knit across the stitches of one pocket lining, knit 6/7/8/9.
Work 3 rows straight in pattern, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row, then on every following 4th row until
29/31/33/35 stitches remain.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until front matches back at the side edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglan as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to end.
2nd row: pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd.

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 13/13/14/14 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Continue decreasing at raglan edge as before on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/8/6/6 stitches remain, then on every following alternate row until 4 stitches remain, all sizes.

Now keep the neck edge straight and work 1 more raglan decrease as before. [3 sts]..
1st row: purl.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl.
1st row: p2, turn; k2tog and fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.
These 8 rows form pattern for right front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'k2tog' when shaping raglan instead of 'k2togtbl'.

Sleeves

Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/35/39/39 stitches and work 7 rows garter stitch.

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides as follows:
Increase 1 stitch at each end of 7th/5th/3rd/3rd and every following 10th/8th/8th/ 6th row until there are 49/53/47/47 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

3rd and 4th sizes: Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th/8th row until there are 55/59 stitches.

All sizes: Work a few rows straight until sleeve seam measures 16 inches (41 cm), ending with the right side facing.

Shape raglans as for back until 7 stitches remain all sizes.
1st row: in pattern.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl, k. 1, k2tog , k1. [5 sts]
1st row: in pattern.
Leave stitches on a safety pin.

Front Borders

Left: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work a strip in garter stitch to fit up left front to start of neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Sew in position as you go along.
For hooded version: Cast off.
Version without hood: Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Right: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch. Work in loop pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * L1, k1; repeat from * to end.
1st row: knit.
1st row: k2, * L1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
1st row: knit.
These 4 rows form pattern. Finish to correspond with left border, but casting off in pattern for hooded version.

Neck Border for version without hood

Join raglan seams.
With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit 11 from right border, pick up and knit 10 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, 23/23/25/25 from back decreasing 2 stitches evenly, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 10 down left side of neck, knit 11 from left border. [73/73/75/75 sts]

1st row: k11, keeping continuity of loop pattern as for right border work to end.
Keeping 11 stitches of left border in garter stitch, work a further 15 rows straight in loop pattern.
Cast Off in loop pattern and garter stitch.

Hood

Join raglan seams.

With right side facing and No 8 needles, start at the centre of the right border and pick up and knit 5 stitches, pick up and knit 9 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, knit 23/23/25/25 from back, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 9 down left side of neck, then k5 from left border to centre. [61/61/63/63 sts]

Work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

1st row: rib 4/4/1/1, m1, * rib 4, m1; repeat from * last 5/5/2/2 stitches, rib 5/5/2/2. [75/75/79/79 sts]

Change to No 5 needles.
1st row: p12, starting with 4th row, work in loop pattern as for back to last 12 stitches, p12.

Keeping 12 stitches at each end in stocking stitch, continue in loop pattern until work measures 11 inches (28 cm) from start of ribbing, ending with right side facing.

Cast off 24 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight in pattern for a further 3 in. (7 cm) on the remaining 27/27/31/31 stitches, then work a further 3 inches (7 cm) in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Hood Border

With No. 8 needles, cast on 103/103/107/107 stitches,and knit 2 rows, then work 16 rows in loop pattern as for right border, starting with 1st row.
Cast Off in loop pattern.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting loop and garter stitch borders and taking care not to spoil the pattern. Join side and sleeve seams.

Pocket Tops: With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit across each set of 21 pocket stitches decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [20 sts].
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off knitwise.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Cut petersham the same length as right border plus 1 inch (2 cm) for turnings.
Mark position for 8 buttonholes on petersham, first to come 1½ in. (4 cm) up from lower edge, 8th 1 inch (2 cm) below top of neck border or below top of ribbing on hooded version, and remainder spaced evenly.
Cut buttonholes in petersham and buttonhole round them.
Pin petersham on wrong side of right border and sew along inner edge and along top and bottom edges, then catch firmly in centre between each buttonhole along outer edge.

Hooded Version: Join sides to top of hood.
Pin loop border on top of hood, cast-on edge to come level with outside edge.
Sew in position all round, sewing short edges level with short edges on front borders.
Both versions: Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

25/26/27/28 x 50g balls of chunky yarn.
Without hood:
20/21/22/23 x 50g balls.

Pair each No 5 (5½mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.

2 stitch-holders.

2 press studs.

2½ inch wide petersham for buttonhole border.

Tension

17 sts and 21 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes to fit bust:
32/34/36/38 inches, (81/86/91/96 cm);
length from top of shoulders, 27/27½/28/28½ inches, 69/70/71/72 cm);
sleeve seam, 16 inches, (41cm) all sizes.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

L1: knit next stitch, winding yarn over needle and first finger of left hand once, then over needle again, then place the 2 loops back on the left needle and knit them together with the stitch through back of loops.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Doublet.
This is a chunky - stated to be "double double knitting" - so 2 times thicker than DK. Ravelry lists it as 60 yards to 50g which sounds reasonable but I am unable to confirm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2019

Jelly Bag Hat

JellyBagHat.jpg

This knitting pattern is not at all challenging (except maybe the 4 needles).
No - it's really all about the delightful picture - such a charming fresh-faced model with those decorous come-hither eyes - all combined with lovely bright colours designed to be cheering for the home makers during WW2.

This kind of quirky Wee Willy Winkie hat did become popular for a while, a few years ago but I haven't seen many around lately. Big pom poms are still the thing though....!

Materials

4 ozs mixed shades fingering, 2-ply.
Any odd balls of bright colours will do.

[Editors note: the "2ply" is probably literally two plies but in yarn weight perhaps more like a 3 ply going by the stated tension,]

A set of four No 11 (3mm ) needles.

Instructions.

Cast on 120 stitches, 40 on each of 3 needles.
Work in rounds of stocking-stitch, changing colour, every 1½ inches.

When 6 inches are done start to decrease very gradually.
To do this knit 2 together at the end of each needle. (3 stitches decreased).
On the next decrease row knit 2 together into the backs of stitches This prevents the cap twisting always in one direction. Make these decreases about every 4 inches until there are 102 stitches left.

When cap is desired length k2tog all round, then draw wool through remaining stitches and fasten off.
For a shorter cap make decreases every 2 inches.

Finish off the end with a multicoloured wool pom-pom, but don't make
it too thick.

You may need to run thread elastic round cast-on edge to keep cap firm on the head.

Tension

8 stitches to an inch.

Size matters

Original cap is 30 inches long but you could make one 18 inches long that is perhaps more suitable for every day wear.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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