Instructions.
Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set
of figures is given this applies to both sizes.
The sweater is worked in an all-over pattern involving loops and slipped
stitches. It is advisable to practise this stitch to get used to it before
starting the main work. Take particular care not to drop any stitches
as it is difficult to pick them up again without spoiling the pattern.
Where numbers of stitches are given these apply to the basic number only,
ie each double stitch is counted as one stitch.
[Editor's note: This is easier to understand once you have practised the
stitch.]
Pattern stitch
With No 9 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 2 inches to practise
the pattern.
1st row: k1 *
insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle;
repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch
off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it
slipping off, * now knit this 2nd
loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle
as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from *
to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle
twice as before. [12 sts]
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch
off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping
off, * now knit this 2nd loop together
with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before
and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from *
to
last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice
round needle.
The 3rd row forms the pattern and this row is now repeated throughout.
[Editor's note:
Just to encourage you - this pattern is easier to do in practice than
to explain.]
Back
Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109)
stitches and work straight in pattern starting with 1st and 2nd rows [once
2nd row is done there are 100 (108)
stitches]; continue until 31 (31)
ridges have been done from start.
Continue in pattern and shape for armholes:
Next row (right side facing): Cast
off 20 (24) [to cast off knit
the
1st loop instead of dropping it, * knit together
the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle
once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way;
repeat from * until 20 (24)
stitches have been cast off], then pattern 60 (60),
cast off the last 20 (24) stitches
in the same way.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and continue straight in pattern
until 51 (51) ridges have been done
from start.
Break off main shade yarn, and join in white yarn.
**Continue
thus:
1st row (right side facing): k1, in
the usual way, * k2 loops together
winding wool round needle once - thus making an ordinary stitch; repeat
from * to end. [61 (61)
sts]
2nd row: In white yarn, k2tog, [p1,
k1] 28 times, p1, k2tog.
3rd row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 29
times, p1.
4th row: In white yarn, p2tog, [k1,
p1] 27 times, k1, p2tog.
5th row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 28
times, p1.
Change to No 11 needles and continue in rib with 2 rows main shade, 4
rows white, 2 rows main shade, and 4 rows white, and decreasing at each
end of every alternate row.
Cast off in rib. **
Pocket linings (make 2 the same)
Begin by making pocket linings.
With main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 26 (26)
stitches and work about 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl
row.
Break off yarn and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.
Front
Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109)
stitches and work in pattern exactly as given for back, starting with
1st and 2nd
rows, until 11 (11) ridges have been
done from start.
Here introduce pockets.
Next row (right side facing): pattern
9 (11), leave main shade yarn hanging,
and join in white, [knit the next 2 loops together, winding wool once
round needle] 26 times, slip these 26 white stitches on a spare needle
or stitch holder for the time being; pick up the main shade yarn again
and work across the 26 (26) stitches
of one pocket lining thus [k1 winding wool twice round needle] 26 times,
pattern across the next 30 (34) stitches
of main work, again leave main shade yarn hanging, join in 2nd ball of
white and work across the next 26 (26)
stitches as before and leave on a spare needle or stitch holder; pick
up main shade and work across 26 (26)
stitches of 2nd pocket lining as before, pattern 9 (11).
Continue in pattern until 31 (31)
ridges have been done from start, then with right side facing, shape
armholes exactly as given for back, then work straight in pattern
on the centre 60 (60) stitches until
41 (41) ridges have been done from
start.
Break off main shade and and join in white.
With right side facing, work striped rib border for neck exactly
as given for back from ** to **.
Left sleeve
**
Using white yarn and No 11 needles, cast on 60 (60)
Sts, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.
Join in main shade and rib 2 rows, then rib 4 rows white , increasing
1 stitch at each end of the last row; rib 2 rows main shade.
Change to No 9 needles and rib 3 rows in white.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib
3, [rib 7, increase in next st.] 7 times, rib 3. [69 (69)
sts]
Break off white yarn.
Join in main shade and work first 3 rows of pattern as given for back.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop
of 1st stitch instead of dropping it, keeping 2nd loop on left needle
as before, pattern to end as given for 3rd pattern row.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop
of 1st stitch instead of dropping it,
keeping 2nd loop on left needle as before, pattern to last stitch as given
for 3rd pattern row, insert left needle into loop of last stitch of previous
row, then knit these 2 stitches together, winding wool twice round needle
[this gives an increase without leaving a hole].
Continue repeating the last row until there are 123 (123)
stitches
Work straight until 36 (38) ridges
have been done from start.
**
‡With right side facing shape
top.
*
Next row:
Cast off 12 (12) as described before,
pattern to last 12 (12) stitches ,
cast off the last 12 (12) stitches
in the same way.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing rejoin yarn, and pattern back.
Repeat from * once more. ‡
Next row: Cast off 25 (25)
stitches, pattern to last 5 (5) stitches,
cast
off the last 5 (5) stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and pattern back. [45 (45)
stitches remain.].
Break off main shade.
Join in white and work striped ribbing, shaping as before.
Right sleeve
Work as for left sleeve from ** to
** [123 (123)
sts].
Repeat from ‡ to ‡
once.
Next row: Cast off 5 (5)
stitches, pattern to last 25 (25)
stitches, cast off the last 25 (25)
stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and pattern back.
Break off main shade.
Join in white and finish as before.
To Make Up
Do not press.
Using tailored seams, join side seams.
Pin sleeves very carefully into armholes, making sure you have the right
sleeve in the right armhole, match the neck ribbing neatly at corners
and pin straight edge of sleeve [side edge] to the 20 cast-off stitches
at the back and front. Sew in position, then join the rest of the sleeve
seam.
With No 11 needles and white wool, work a further 3 rows rib across each
pocket top, then 2 rows main shade, 3 rows white; cast off in rib in white
Catch down sides of pocket tops and pocket linings.
Press seams lightly.
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Materials
19 (20) ozs Double Knitting, in main
shade (Glamour Red - or Black);
2 oz in White.
A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 11 (3mm) needles.
Tension
This pattern stitch is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a
basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm
needles.
Size matters
The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 34-35 (36-37)
inches; length from top of shoulders, 23 (23)
ins.; sleeve seam, 14½ (15) ins.
Abbreviations
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")
Disclaimer
(well...almost)
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced,
in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please
and I will try and assist.
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