Robin Hood and Maid Marion
Long-line sweaters with belts at hip level. Very up-to-the-minute sixties styling - but somehow I feel they should have been shown in Lincoln Green - no?
InstructionsThe main body of the sweater is knitted in "rice stitch" which is knitting a kind of sparse moss or seed stitch with some of the knit stitches on the right side worked into the back of the stitch. Back:‡ Change to size 8 needles and pattern: 2nd row: k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k17, p9; k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20). 3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from *to * once, [k1tbl, p 1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times. 4th row: As 2nd row. 7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from * to * once, [k1tbl, p1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times. 8th row: As 2nd row. These 8 rows form the pattern. Make Slots for Belt: Next row: Pattern 6 (6,
8, 12, 16,
16, 18) stitches and turn, leaving
remaining stitches on a spare needle. Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving
remaining stitches on a spare needle. Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving
remaining stitches on a spare needle. Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn. Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 25 (29,
29, 29, 29,
33, 33) stitches and turn, leaving
remaining stitches on a spare needle. Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving
remaining stitches on a spare needle. Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving
remaining stitches on a spare needle. Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn. Join in yarn to remaining 6 (6, 8,
12, 16, 16,
18) stitches, work to end. Next row: Work in pattern across all stitches. Continue in pattern until work measures approximately 15 (15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16½, 16½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row. Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread to facilitate easier working when joining raglan seams. Shape Raglan Armholes: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 7th sizes only. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and 3 (3, 3, 3, -, -, 1) following 4th rows. 107 (111, 115, 125, -, -, 143) remaining. All sizes . Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate
row Shape Shoulder Sections: Front:Follow instructions as for the Back from ‡ to ‡, until 79 (81, 81, 85, 87, 89, 91 ) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. Shape one side of the Neck: Shape other side of the Neck: Sleeves:Using size 10 needles, cast on 53 (53, 57, 57, 61, 61, 61) stitches. Using size 10 needles, cast on 115 (119,
123, 131, 139,
143, 147) stitches. Change to size 8 needles and pattern: 2nd row: k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26). 3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times. 4th row: As 2nd row. 7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times. 8th row: As 2nd row. These 8 rows form the pattern. Increase and work into pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the next and
every following 10th (9th, 9th,
8th, 8th, 7th,
6th) row until there are 73 (77,
81, 85, 89,
93, 97) stitches on the needle. Shape Raglan Top: Work 1 row. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate
row until 13 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. NeckbandWith right side of work facing and using size 8 needles, knit across
the 13 stitches on top of Left Sleeve, pick up and k20 (20,
22, 22, 24,
24, 24) stitches down left side of
neck, knit across the 17 (19, 19,
21, 21, 21,
23) stitches at centre, pick up and k20 (20,
22, 22, 24,
24, 24) stitches up right side of
neck, knit across the 13 stitches on top of Right Sleeve and the 31 (33,
33, 35, 35,
37, 39) stitches on back neck: 114
(118, 122,
126, 130, 132,
136) stitches. BeltUsing size 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches. 1st row (Right side facing): * k1,
p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 3 stitches remain. Knit 3 together and fasten off. To Make UpUsing a back stitch, join raglan seams, shoulder sections and neckband,
matching coloured threads on raglan to coloured threads on sleeve top. Press seams lightly under a damp cloth. |
Materials23 (24, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31) x 25g balls double knitting wool. Pair each No 8 (4mm) and Buckle for belt. Tension24sts x 34 rows to 4 ins measured over rice stitch. Size mattersActual chest measurement: 34 (36,
38, 40, 42,
44 46) inches
Length to centre back neck: 23 (23¾,
24¼, 25¼, 25¾,
26½, 27) ins
Her sleeve seam: 16 (16½, 16½,
17, 17, 17½,
17½) inches Abbreviations k1tbl: knit through the back of the stitch. A word on the wool.Original yarn was a pure wool superwash yarn. Disclaimer (well...almost)In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced,
in spite of dedicated proof reading. |