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October 2021

Nordic Style Cardigan

NordicCardigan3.jpg

This drop-shoulder design cardigan in cheering Nordic colours is taken from a much-loved and much-handled pattern.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - the larger sizes are shown in brackets.

When working the pattern weave the yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work; do not strand the threads over more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.

Back and Fronts (worked in one piece up to the armholes)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (R), cast on 194 [206, 218] stitches and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

These two rows form the rib. Work a further 31 rows.

Next (increase) row: p9 [12, 4], m1, * p8 [7, 7], m1; repeat from * until p9 [12, 4] stitches remain; purl to end. {217 [233, 249] sts}

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and join in white (W). Weaving in the yarns not in use, work the 2-colour pattern entirely in stocking stitch, beginning, on the right side of the work, with a knit row. Note: only the colours are specified below.

1st row (knit): 3R, * 3W, 5R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 3R instead of 5R.
2nd row (purl): 4R, * 1W, 7R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 4R.
3rd row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
4th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).
5th row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W.
6th row (purl): 1W, * 7R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
7th row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
8th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).

NordicCardigan2ColourChart.jpg

These 8 rows form the 2-colour pattern. Work a further 59 rows, up to the armholes, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Divide to separate back and fronts: With red, (R) p51 [55, 59] stitches; increase in the next stitch and leave these 53 [57, 61] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the left front;
p113 [121, 129] stitches, turn, and leave the remaining 52 [56, 60] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the right front.

Back

On these 113 [121, 129] stitches work the 36 row 3-colour pattern, weaving in the yarns not in use at the back of the work. Once again, the pattern is worked entirely in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row so only the colour details are shown. Join in blue (B).

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
4th row (purl): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
5th row (knit): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
6th row (purl): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
7th row (knit): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
8th row (purl): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
9th row (knit): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
10th row (purl): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
11th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
12th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
13th row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
14th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
15th row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
16th row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
17th row(knit): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
18th row(purl): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
19th row(knit): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.
20th row(purl): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.

[Editor's note: Rows 21-36 are a repeat of rows 1-16 worked in exact mirror image so Row 21 is the same as row 16, row 22 is the same as row 15, and so on back to the first row the same as row 36..]

21st row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
22nd row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
23rd row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
24th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
25th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
26th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
27th row (knit): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
28th row (purl): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
29th row (knit): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
30th row (purl): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
31st row (knit): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
32nd row (purl): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
33rd row (knit): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
34th row (purl): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
35th row (knit): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
36th row (purl): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.

NordicCardigan3ColourChart.jpg

Break off blue and continue in the 2-colour pattern, beginning with the 3rd row. Work 10 [10, 14] rows.

Slope shoulders: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With right side facing, rejoin the yarns to the the inner (armhole) end of the 53 [57, 61] stitches, and work in the 3 colour pattern as follows.

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 1 [5, 1] stitches remain; 1B [(1B, 4R), (1B)] .
2nd row (purl): 2B [(3R, 3B), (2B)] , * 5R, 3B; repeat from * until 3 stitches remain; 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 3 [7, 3] stitches remain; 3B [(5B,2R), (3B)]
4th row (purl): (4B, 1R) [(1R), (4B, 1R)] , * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern. Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) knit 1 row.

To shape the neck:

1st row (purl, wrong side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches, purl to end.
2nd row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * until 2 [5, 8] stitches remain; k0 [(3R), (6R)]; k2tog in R.

** Keeping continuity of the 2-colour pattern to match the main part, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 5 rows — when working the right front read 6 rows here instead — {38 [41, 44] sts}.

Pattern 2 [2, 6] rows.

Slope shoulder: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work one row, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 2 following alternate rows. Work one row.
Cast off remaining 6 [7, 7] stitches.

Right Front

With wrong side facing, rejoin red (R) at the the inner (armhole) end, increase in the first stitch, and purl to end. {53 [57, 61] sts}

Work in the 3 colour pattern as follows:

1st row (knit): 1B [(4R, 1B), (1B)], * 7R 1B; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain; 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 2 [6, 2] stitches remain; 2B [(3B, 3R), (2B)]
3rd row (knit): 3B [(2R,5B), (3B)] , * 3R, 5B; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2R.
4th row (purl): * 1R, 7B; repeat from * until 5 [1, 5] stitches remain; (1R, 4B) [(1R), (1R,4B)].

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern.
Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) work 2 rows.

To shape the neck:

1st row (knit, right side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches; knit k1R [(4R), (2W, 5R)]; * 3W, 5R; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2W.

Work as given for left front from ** to end, noting the variation.

Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade R, cast on 48 [48, 52] stitches and work 32 rows in double rib as for main piece.

Next (increase) row: k4, m1, * k1, m1; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain;k4. {89 [89, 97] sts}

Purl one row in red (R).

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work 72 rows in the 2-colour pattern as given on main piece (back and fronts).

Work the 36 rows of the 3-colour pattern as given on back.
Break off blue (B) and white (W).

With red (R) knit one row, then cast off.

Button Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 158 [158, 162] rows in k1/p1 single rib, beginning odd numbered rows with k1, and even numbered rows with p1.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Buttonhole Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 6 [6, 10] rows in k1/p1 single rib, as given for button band.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on previous row.
Rib 24 rows.

Repeat the last 26 rows 4 times more, then the 2 buttonhole rows again. Rib 19 more rows, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

Using the No 10 (3¼mm) needles holding the 13 stitches of the buttonhole band, and continuing the last row, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from right neck shaping, knit across 37 [39, 41] stitches from the back, increasing 3 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from left neck shaping, and finally rib across the 13 stitches (from the safety pin) of the button band. {112 [116, 124] sts}

1st rib row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * 5 times, k2; ** p2, k2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; p1, * k1, p1; repeat from this last * to end.
2nd rib row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * 5 times, p2; ** k2, p2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; k1, * p1, k1; repeat from this last * to end.

These two rows set the rib. Work 3 rows.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib as set to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on 1st row.

Work 12 rows in rib as set, then work the 2 buttonhole rows again.
Rib 4 rows, cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a warm iron over a dry cloth, or following any instructions on the ball band.

Set sleeves into armholes, and join the sleeve seams.
Sew front bands to respective fronts.
Turn neckband in half to the wrong side, and catch in place. Oversew the buttonhole in the neckband.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 [5, 6] 50g balls DK in main shade (R) red, plus
2 [2, 3] balls (B) blue, and
2 [2, 3] balls (W) white.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.

Tension

26 stitches x 27 rows to 4 ins (10cm) over the pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 [36, 38] inches, (86 [91, 97] cm);
length: 22 [22,
22½] inches, (56 [56, 57½] cm);
sleeve seam: 19¾ [19¾, 19¾] inches, (50 [50, 50] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working twice into the same stitch.

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2021

Casual Country Weekend

CasualCountryWeekend.jpg

Simply styled early sixties casual sweaters with separate instructions for her and for him. They are knitted in "triple knitting" yarn - a short-lived experiment by the yarn companies to introduce what is now the American "worsted" weight standard to British knitters. However, we were too much in love with our double knitting yarn - I mean that was bulky enough surely?!
However, owing to globalisation, we have now fully embraced worsted weight yarns which means we can easily find a good selection of yarn colours and fibre mixes to use with this pattern. [Failing that we always have Aran yarns to fall back on...]

The man's and womans versions are very similar - and similar in chest sizes offered as well. The changes are mainly to the proportion. However, the man's version has a set-in sleeve, while the woman's is more of square almost drop-shoulder - you can see this in the photo. I prefer the set in sleeve and if you are a woman of size 36-40 then it would be quite feasible to knit the man's sweater, adjusting sleeve and overall length to suit.

Instructions for WOMAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 80/86/92 stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/7/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [85/93/101 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 15 inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [69/77/85 sts]

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 21/21/21½ inches, ending after a first row with wrong side facing.

Next row: purl, increasing 9 stitches evenly across the row by working twice into every 7th/8th/9th stitch. [78/86/94 sts]

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 24/24/24½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 11/12/13 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 34/38/42 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 40/40/44 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/5/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [45/45/53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th/5th/9th and every following 4th row until there are 83//83/89 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 19 inches down centre.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.
Join shoulder and side seams. Join sleeve seams leaving 1½ inches open at the top: inset sleeves sewing 1½ inches of open sleeve seam along cast cast off stitches of armholes.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and catch down loosely; turn under rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams as before.


Instructions for MAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 90/96/102 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 3/5/7 stitches evenly across on last row. [93/101/109 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 16/16½/16½ inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69/77/85 stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 23 inches down centre, ending after a second row with right side facing.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.
Next row: * k 4/4/5, knit twice into the next stitch; repeat from * to last 4/12/7 stitches; k4/12/7. [82/90/98 sts]
Next row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 25½/26/26 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 8/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 38/42/44 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 46 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 7 stitches evenly across on last row. [53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th//8th/6th row until there are 73/73/77 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 18½/18½/19 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape top, by casting of 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 45/45/51 stitches remain. Work 1 row back, so that the right side is facing again.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 17/17/19 stitches remain.

Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and slip stitch loosely in position; turn under the rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams dry cloth and cool iron as before.

[Editor's note: I imagine the heavy emphasis on the ironing instructions are specific to the original yarn. In general, if using an iron, press only very gently with a cool iron using either a dry or damp cloth as appropriate to the yarn; use the instructions on the ball band if any are given.]

Materials

In Aran or worsted weight yarn.

Woman's version:
10/10/12 x 2oz balls in colour "Dawn Azure".

Man's version:
12/12/13 x 2oz balls in colour "Brown Heather".

A pair each of Nos 4 (6mm), 6 (5mm), and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

17 sts x 22 rows to 4 ins on No 4 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

Woman's version To fit chest: 34/36/38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 24/24/24½ inches.
Sleeve down centre: 19/19/19 inches

Man's version
To fit chest: 36/38/40 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26 inches.
Sleeve seam: 18½/18½/19 inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

Cross2K: knit into the back of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then knit into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

Cross2P: purl into the front of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then purl into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2021

Cotton Mesh Beach Cover-up (and purse)

BeachMeshCoverUp.jpg

Very practical airy cover-up in a sunny colour. These tops are surprisingly effective as shelter from a hot sun. But always remember, they offer screening against scorching but are not man enough against uv - so never forget to use a good sunscreen lotion, and stay in the shade where you can.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes as this is intended an "oversized" top - but, with the specified yarn as written, it measures up to 40 inches. However, you can see from the shape and construction method, it would be easy enough to expand, either by adding stitches or experimenting with a slightly less fine thread.

Mesh Pattern:

Multiple of 3 ch plus 7 ch to turn.
1st row: into 8th chain * work 1 dtr, 2 ch, miss 2 stitches; repeat from * to end.
2nd and following rows: 5 chain to turn, which counts as 1st dtr and 2 chain, * work 1 dtr into dtr of previous row, inserting hook under 3 strands, 2 chain, repeat from * to end.

Back and Front

The beach robe is worked in one piece, beginning at the lower front edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) hook, make 195(204) chain plus another 7 chain to turn, which count as 2 ch of base of 1 st, 1 dtr and 2 ch.
Work in mesh pattern. [66(69) dtr and 2 ch spaces]
[Editor's note: this notation "dtr and 2 ch space" indicates that you have that many "holes" in the mesh, each set of 3 chain make one "hole" plus 1 as part of the turning chains.]

Work straight.
When work measures 17 inches, on this row, add 30(33) chain plus 7 ch to turn, for the sleeves.
Leave these stitches and this end of the word for a moment - do not break yarn.
At the other end of the row, using another ball of the yarn, work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the row and than make 33(36) chain. Break yarn.
Return to other stitches and yarn at the other side of the piece, then work 1 dtr into the 8th chain, 2ch, work 10(11) dtr plus 2ch spaces as for foundation row of mesh pattern, continue across 66(69) dtr of main piece, then work 11(12) dtr across chain stitches.
[88(93) dtr and 2 ch spaces].

When work measures 26¾(27¼) inches, using 1 strand of yarn from a separate ball of yarn, make front neck opening.
Work 1 slst into the 24th(26th) dtr, counting from the sleeve edge, work 122 ch, miss 40(41) dtr, 1 slst into 24th(26th) dtr from the other end of the work .
Break yarn.

Now work in mesh pattern across (88(92) dtr and 2 ch spaces.

When work measures 9¾(10¼) inches from neck opening, leave 11(12) dtr unworked at each end of the row.
Work on 66(68) dtr at the centre of work.
When work measures 17 inches from under arm, work 10 rows in dc.
Fasten off.

Work a border of 10 rows in dc at the lower edge of the front and also and around the sleeves.
Work a border of 10 rows in dc along each side of the neck, opening, decreasing 1 dc at each end of every row.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Stitch side and under arm seams.
Close neck borders by stitching together at the sides..


A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Fil d'Ecosse No 8, now discontinued but sometimes seen on eBay. This is quite a fine 100% cotton thread probably equivalent to a 3ply weight in wool. (Make sure you look for "No 8" cotton - there were other weights for this yarn - the higher the number the thicker the thread).
When substituting, compare the specified gauge and yardage per 50g to get a good match. You can search for "thread yarns", cottons for weaving, and cotton supplied on cones, as well as suitable fine knitting cottons..

At the current time of writing: Laughing Hens, Love Crafts, Yeoman Yarns, Yarnoncone

Materials

No 8 crochet cotton.
5 balls, each with a yardage of 285 metres.

No 14 (2mm) crochet hook.

For the purse: 25g No 8 crochet cotton.
1 button

Tension

13 dtrs x 10½ rows to 4 ins over mesh pattern using 2mm hook.
[39sts to 4inches in knitted stocking stitch]

Size matters

To fit size 10-12 (14); actual measurement: 40 (42) inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook
dtr: double treble: Pass wool twice round hook, insert hook into st, pull 1 loop through, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through remaining 2 loops.
slst: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BeachMeshCoverUpDiagram.jpg

Neck Purse

Back and Flap:
Begin this first sections the with flap edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) crochet hook, make 15 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, then continue in dc to end[15 dc].
1st row: 2 dc into 1st dc, 13 dc, 2 dc into last dc.
2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th rows:Work 2 dc into first and last dc.
5th, 7th, and 9th rows:Work straight
[29 dc]
11th row: Work a buttonhole at centre of work: work 13 dc, 3 ch, miss 3 sts, 13 dc.

Work straight until 58th row has been completed.
Decrease 1 dc at each end of the row, by missing 1st dc and last but one dc, on 59th, 61st, 63rd, 65th, 66th, 67th and 68th rows.
Fasten off.

Make a second section for the Front:
Make 29 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 29 dc across row for 23 rows. Decrease at each end of the row (by missing 1 st st and last but one st) on the 24th, 26th, 28th, 30th, 31st, 32nd and 33rd rows.
Fasten off.

Borders:
Rejoin yarn at the 33rd row of the beginning of the first (back and flap) section.
Work slst all the way round, working as follows:
Into the straight sections: * 1 slst into each row end 3 times, miss 1 row end, repeat from *.
Into curved sections: work 1 slst into each row end,
At the ends: work 1 slst into each dc.

1st row: On wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness
of the chain formed by the slst row.
Work a 2nd row, inserting hook into both dc of 1st row and into one thread from the edge of work. (This ensures that work lies flat and does not curl up.) This is to be worked across the top edge of flap only.

On front section of purse, work the row of slst then on wrong side of work, 1 row in dc.
Join the 2 sections with 1 row of slst.
Sew on button.
Make a cord by twisting 12 strands of wool, about 3¼ yards long. [The finished cord should measure about 34 inches].

July 2021

Travelling Light I

TravelTote1.jpg

Soft-sided bags pack well into a car for touring or camping - or simply excursions to the beach. So these can make a good alternative as light weight overnight bags, or to contain all those little essentials for trips to the washrooms.

Instructions.

Size could be modified by adding stitches or rows, or using a thicker yarn to change the tension - see "a Word on the Wool".

Main section

Using tan beige colour (G) make 80 chain, plus one chain to turn.

Work in dc inserting hook into the back of the loop only.
(This gives a ridged effect to the work).

Work in stripes as follows;

6 rows in B (tan)
4 rows in C (red)
4 rows in B (tan)
1 row in C (red)
3 rows in A (pink)
1 row in D (purple)
1 row in C (red)
1 row in B (tan) - centre of stripe sequence.

Now reverse the sequence:

1 row in C (red)
1 row in D (purple)
3 rows in A (pink)
1 row in C (red)
4 rows in B (tan)
4 rows in C (red)
6 rows in B (tan)

Fasten off

Side Gussets

Using dark blue or purple colour (D) make 30 chain, plus one chain to turn. Work 8 rows in dc, inserting hook into the back loop only.
Fasten off.

Work a second gusset in the same way.

Handle

Using tan beige colour (B) make 200 chain, plus one chain to turn. Work 4 rows in dc, inserting hook into the back loop only.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Fold under a hem of 5 dc at each end of the bag.
Working from the centre (see diagram), stitch the handles onto the bag positioned over the 4 rows in colour B, and looping round to form two handles..
Sew in the gussets, by sewing the longer edge of the bag evenly around three sides of each gusset, noting that the bag is a little longer than the gussets.
Work a border of dc at each end of the bag, around the gussets, using pink colour (A).


A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a dense 100% acrylic carpet wool, with only 25m to a 50g ball. It appears to be a chunky yarn designed for use with a 6mm hook - so this bag, using a 4mm hook, is designed to be made very tight and firm to keep the shape of the bag. (Possibly hard work on the fingers).
When substituting, use the yardage to calculate quantities.

I have seen Herdwick used to good effect for this type of bag. You may have to buy it as an aran weight and use it double for this pattern; of course you would be fairly limited in colour scheme.
Also it could be a good use of handspun - spin to a suitable thickness using a high(ish) twist to make it coarser, and experiment to get the tension and firmness that you need.

Finally, this could be a good way to use up remnants - always provided you can achieve the required tension, or make your own calculations to compensate. The bag is simply a mirror image of one set of stripes, so divide your remnants into 2 equal parts, either by weight or length before you begin - or alternatively - go wild and make an asymmetric pattern!

Materials

The yarn is a chunky carpet wool:
2 balls in fuchsia pink (A), 9 in tan (B), 2 in red (C), 3 in dark blue or purple (D).

One No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

Tension

8¼ sts and 9½ rows to 4 inches in dc.

Size matters

The body of the bag as designed is about 17 inches wide, 15 inches high, and 4 inches deep.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

TravelTote1-diagram.jpg

June 2021

Cotton Tee

CottonTee.jpg

Just a really simple striped crochet tee - but I love this top - my weakness for anything seaside related and in these lovely summer colours. Can't you feel that light summer breeze and hear the water softly lapping against the side of your yacht?

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is a simple enough basic pattern - however, the pattern assumes you understand how crochet works with little or no instruction on increasing and descreasing or other techniques, so please ensure you are comfortable with the instructions before starting. I am happy to help if you need to contact me.]

Back

Using 3mm hook and white, make 120/124/128/132 chain, plus 1 ch to turn.
Work in striped dc (2 rows in each colour), working a row of holes on the second row in white as follows:
1st and 3rd sizes: 3 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.
2nd and 4th sizes: 1 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.

From the 26th row, decrease 1 stitch - by missing the first and last dc - at each end of every 12th row 7 times.
[106/110/104/118 dc]
[Editor's Note: As you can see in the diagram at the end, the top is wider at the bottom and tapers slightly up to the armhole. The eyelets at the bottom are designed so that it can gathered at the hip (not obvious in the photo). If you want a straight tee, you can start here with 106/110/104/118 dc, omit the eyelet row, and work straight in striped dc up to the armholes]

Continue until work measures 17 inches.

Shape armholes:
Decrease 5 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 6/6/7/8 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of every alternate row 2/3/3/3 times.
[80/82/84/86 dc]

When work measures 21½ inches, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row, then increase again when work measure 22¾ inches.

When work measure 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, shape shoulder by decreasing at each end of every row as follows: (the first decrease should be on the second row of the blue colour)

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/3 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 3/3/1/1 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/1 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.

This leaves 17/17/18/19 dc. Fasten Off.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 21/21/21¼/21¼ inches, after completing 2 rows in blue colour. Shape the neck by leaving the centre 16/18/18/18 dc unworked. Work on one side only, and decrease at the neck edge:
Decrease 2 dc at the neck edge of the next 2 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 4 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * twice more.

When work measures 21½ inches and 22¾, increase 1 dc at the armhole edge as you did on the Back.

When work measures 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, on the second row of the blue colour, shape shoulder as for one side of the Back.

Then work the other side of the neck to match, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using 3mm hook and white, make 70/72/74/76 chain, plus 1 ch to turn, and work 6 rows in dc.

The continue with striped dc beginning with the blue colour.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row 4 times.
[78/80/82/84 dc]

When work measures 5¾/6/6/ inches, shape armhole:

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3/4/5/5 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * 4 times more.

Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 4 rows.
Then decrease 2 dc at each end of the next 2 rows.

Fasten off.

Front neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 17/17/18/19 sl st across one shoulder, then 58/61/61/61 sl st around neck, then 17/17/18/19 sl st across other shoulder.
Turn, and on wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row, working 3 dc into the dc on the corner of the shoulder and the neck on both sides, to ease round the corner.

Crochet straight on the next 2 rows, then on the 4th row, work 13/13/14/15 dc, * 2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc, repeat from * 3 times more, (again easing round the corner). Work in the same way on the corner at the other side.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Back neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 1 row in sl st over each dc.
Then work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row.
On the 4th row, decrease 6 dc evenly over the dc on the back neck.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Making Up

Cross front shoulder borders over back.
Stitch shoulders for 2¾ to 3¼ inches.
Stitch side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.
Make a thin cord in white colour then thread through row of holes and
tie at hips.

Materials

Cotton yarn equivalent to 3 or 4ply yarn weight.
4/5/5/5 balls yarn in blue, plus,
5/5/6/6 balls in white.
Editor's note: Ball weight is assumed to be 50g.

3mm crochet hook

Tension

23½ dc and 28 rows to 4 inches using 3mm hook

Size matters

10 / 12 / 14 / 16
[33 / 35 / 37 / 39 inch chest]

Approximate actual measurement: 36/38/40/42 inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
Striped dc: * 2 rows white, 2 rows blue, repeat from *

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is not one with which I am familiar and I can find no external references to it. Hence I have little idea of the thickness or yardage. Making some assumptions, based on the description, tension, and the other crochet tops, it should be a cotton blend, probably a 4 ply equivalent, with possibly around 130m to 50g. Needless to say - check the tension with a swatch, and don't skimp when purchasing the yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

CottonTeeDiagram-body.jpg

CottonTeeDiagram-sleeve.jpg

May 2021

Whitsun Holiday Hat

HolidayHat1.jpg

Knitting and crochet combine in this eye-catching candy floss striped hat which can be quickly put together in double knitting weight yarn.

This hat was designed for smart summer holidays (in the UK) in the 1950s, though it's hard to imagine wearing a woolly hat in the summer these days (even in the UK) - which is more a comment on fashion than global warming. However - easy to adapt the colour scheme for autumn and winter days.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is knitted in a fancy striped stitch (which is easier to do than to describe - see below); the top of the crown and brim are in simple double crochet.

Crown

Begin with the striped part: with pink wool, on No 10 needles, cast on 33 stitches and work in pattern thus:

1st row: k1, * insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle twice as before. [32 sts].
Leave pink hanging.
Join in white.
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop
together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice round needle.

Next row: As 3rd in white.
Leave white hanging.

3rd row forms pattern and this row is now repeated throughout, working two rows in each shade, ie your next 2 rows will be in pink
and the following 2 rows in white.

Continue thus until you have 26 pink stripes.

Next 2 rows: in white.

Cast off in white as follows:
Knit the first loop instead of dropping it, * knit together the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way; repeat from * until all stitches have been cast off; fasten off.
Join short sides together on wrong side.

With No 8 hook and white wool, make 3 chain, join into a ring with a
slip stitch. Work 2 dc in each chain. [6 dc]
Mark start of each new round with a pin to check increasings.

1st round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [12 dc]
2nd round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd round: * 2 dc in 2 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th round: * 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [30 dc]
5th round: * 4 dc in 4 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [36 dc]
6th round: * 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [42 dc] Continue thus, working 1 dc more between the increasings on every round until you have worked the round:
* 12 dc in 12 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [84 dc]

Fasten off.

Brim:

With white wool and No 5 hook, make 101 chain fairly loosely. Join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: * 1 dc in 1 chain; repeat from * all round.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc.

Next round: * 1 dc in 1 dc but going through the back loop only of each dc; repeat from * to end.
This forms edge of brim.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc, going through both loops in the usual way.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Press top of crown only.
Fold brim in half and press.
Pin centre of crown in position to striped part, gathering striped part to fit. Sew firmly in position on wrong side with a row of back stitching about ¼ inch below edge.
Fit brim over edge of crown, so that edge of crown goes right to fold; slip-hem neatly on both sides.
Give the three thicknesses of the brim a good press with a hot iron but only a slightly damp cloth.

Don hat with best frock and cotton gloves, and go for a promenade on the sea front.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 2oz white, and 1oz almond pink.

A pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

A No 5 (5½mm) crochet hook and a No 8 (4mm) hook.

Tension

26 sts to 4 inches over striped pattern on No 10 (3½mm) needles;
16 dc to 4 inches on No 5 (5½mm) hook; 22 dc to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) hook.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2021

Made for Each Other - sweater or slipover for Spring

MadeForEachOther.jpg

Sweater in Spring colours with sleeveless option suitable for the changing season.
Currently for me, the appeal of this combination is the yellow and grey colour scheme in which they have illustrated it - although I would be disinclined to set it off with a bright all-yellow ensemble, and would probably use a more muted shade of yellow.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets up to a 40 inch chest. The design is intended for women or men (albeit men of presumably modest proportions).

Back

With No 11 needles, and main shade (M) cast on 108 (118 : 126) stitches, and work 5 inches in k2/p2 rib, beginning the second row "p2" for second and third sizes, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row for all sizes.
[109 (119 : 127) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work Fair-Isle from Chart thus:

For 1st and 3rd sizes, repeat the 18 stitches between the red lines to the last the last stitch then work the 1st stitch beyond the line.

For 2nd size, work 5 stitches before the red line, then repeat the 18
stitches between the red lines to the last 6 stitches, then work 6 stitches beyond the red line.

Continue until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves, or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the sleeveless slipover, ending with a
wrong-side row.

Armholes shaping:

Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 77 (85 : 91) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and then 5 (7 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off 37 (41 : 43) stitches.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 11 (11¾ : 12) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 12 (12¾ : 13½) inches for the slipover.

Front shaping:
Next row: pattern 54 (59 : 63) stitches; turn.

Continue on these stitches only.

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and ever following 4th row until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the slipover, ending at the side edge.

Armholes shaping:
Still decreasing at the centre front edge on every 4th row as before, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows.

Continue with centre front edge shaping until until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches, ending at the side edge.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row. Cast off 5 (7 : 9) stitches and break yarn.

With right side facing, slip the centre front stitch on to a safety pin.
Join yarn to inner edge of the the remaining stitches and complete the other side of the front to match, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 56 (66 : 74) stitches and work 3½ inches in k2/p2 rib, as for the Back,and decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the last row for all sizes.
[55 (65 : 73) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and working from the Chart as for the Back, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 10th row until there are 75 (83 : 89),stitches.
Continue straight until work measures 17 (17½ : 18) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

To shape the top cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 43 (49 : 53) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 (8 : 10) rows.
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Neckband:

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches down left side of neck, increase in the stitch from the safety pin, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches up right side of neck, and then knit 36 (40 : 44) stitches from the Back neck.

1st row wrong side facing): * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.

Decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front 2 stitches on every row, rib 9 more rows as set.
Cast off ribwise.

Join left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armbands for Slipover:

With right side facing, using No 11 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 118 (130 : 142) stitches round each armhole.
Work 9 rows in k2, p2 rib beginning the second row "p2".

Cast off ribwise.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Sweater with sleeves: Set in sleeves. Join side and sleeve seams.
Slipover: Join side and armband seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn in 25g balls:
Sweater:
9 (11 : 12) main colour (charcoal);
7 (7 : 8) in white;
5 balls in light grey for all sizes.
Slipover:
7 (8 : 11) main colour (white);
5 in contrast charcoal all sizes;
3 (3 : 4) in contrast yellow.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (37 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 21 (22½ : 24) inches; sleeve seam: 17 (17½ : 18) inches.

Abbreviations

increase: increase 1 stitch by knitting twice into the next stitch.

decrease: decrease 1 stitch by knitting two stitches together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Robin Vogue DK which was 90% wool. It appeared as both 25g and 1 oz balls depending on the era, and may have been pure wool at one time.

Some information indicates a yardage of 112m for 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.

MadeForEachOtherChart.gif

March 2021

Adaptable design... (for a "modern" chair)

ChairCover8

This is a needlepoint design with instructions below. However, needlepoint charts can be used for colourwork in knitting, so I also discuss the possibility of adapting it to use for a "modern" cushion cover.

This chair on which the cover is shown seems far from modern for the 1950s when this pattern was published, but this might have been a way to try an update it. They reassure us: "you can extend this design as required to fit any chair or stool top; with careful colour choosing the pattern would suit period pieces as well as modern furniture". This particular chair seems very similar to my Mother's dining set purchased in 1938, where the seat is wider at the front that the back (so not quite square), but the chair's construction seems a bit more solid, so it is probably a little older.
Sadly, his type of brown furniture is even less popular today than it was when this was first published - but upcycling with chalk paint and a colourful fabric is always a possibility.

Needlepoint embroidery instructions.

As I said in the introduction - these are the instructions for needlepoint, with notes on using the chart for a knitted cushion at the end.

Make a paper pattern of seat, and draw round the outline, centring the pattern, on the canvas. Mark the centre line in each direction and start the diamond pattern on the centre point.
Each square of the chart equals 1 stitch and an exact repeat of pattern is shown on the chart. Extend the design outwards all round to the pencil outline.

The main design is worked in tent-stitch (a slanting-stitch over one
intersection on the right side and two double threads at the back; work each stitch in two separate movements, down and up); all brown stitches (leaves, stalks and single stitch in centre of small lime motifs) are in single cross-stitch.

Press, stretch and mount finished tapestry as required.

Mounting Tapestry

Before mounting your work, press it carefully on wrong side under a lightly damped cloth. If, through not working in a frame, the tapestry has got out of shape, pin out face downwards on a clean cloth, stretching it to the correct shape; press the wrong side carefully under a damp cloth, and leave pinned out for 24 hours.
This should help, and you can correct any further distortion by stretching the work well as you mount it.

To mount, lay the tapestry flat, wrong side up, then place the seat pad on top. Bring tapestry up sides of padded cushion part and fix temporarily with lots of ordinary sewing pins, turning to the front again and again to check the correct positioning of the design.

When it is firmly held with pins all round, fold the surplus edges of the canvas over the wooden frame of the pad, and nail firmly in position with tacks and a hammer, or use a staple gun, mitreing the corners as neatly as possible.
Remove the sewing pins and cover the underside of the pad with the usual utility furnishing material.


Charted cushion adaptation.

You can easily use an embroidery chart as a colourwork chart for knitting.
And you do not have to adapt it - but there is one snag. Unlike cross-stitch embroidery, a knitted stitch is not square - so your resulting knitted cushion will not be square and the geometric pattern will be distorted.
Now if you want to design your own pattern charts, and take account of the shape of the stitches, you can use "knitter's graph paper" - a link to free graph paper charts is at the top of the right-hand side bar, and you can choose your tension and print the paper yourself. There is a great tutorial at The Twisted Yarn.
You could use this to try and adapt this pattern but trying to make perfect square shapes can be a bit tricky - and I have not tried to do so.
[Editors note: Another way to make stitches more or less symmetrical is to work in garter stitch - you would need to work every row twice to make this work.

So here is the chart in some nice shades of yellow and grey.

Assuming you are familiar with the idea of working from charts, as usual, the charts show the right, or knitted, side of the work, reading knit rows from right to left; every alternate row worked in purl and read from left to right. The yarn not in use is carried loosely across the back of the fabric all the time, so it will be taken behind the stitches on a knitted row and in front of them on a purled row.

Ideally you need to keep within a maximum of about five or six stitches in each colour so that you don't have to carry the yarn not in use across too many stitches at the back of the work. It is feasible to carry the yarn across a greater number of stitches as long as you don't pull the yarn so tightly that it puckers your work.
[Editors note: When you are making actual garments with motifs, it is not good practice to leave large loops of yarn at the back as they tend to catch on buttons etc as you pull sweaters on and off (ask me how I know). With cushions like this it is less important as the wrong side of the work is enclosed and unlikely to be pulled once finished.]

Finally - here's a roughly square cushion made up of 3 x 4 distorted motifs showing what it might actually look like:

Making up

For a cushion you need two identical pieces. You could make two knitted pattern pieces, or make one of them in plain knitting, or back the cushion with fabric, cut to the right size (don't forget to allow extra on the fabric to turn in the raw edges).
Sew the two cushion pieces together on three sides.
Insert a cushion pad and sew up the fourth side.

The size (and shape) of the resulting cushion cover will depend on the yarn you choose to work with. For a standard double knitting yarn, a 3 x 4 motif should work out to a size of about 22 inches wide and x 23 inches high.

Materials

Tapestry canvas about 23 inches square for a 17 inch square pad. This would be about ⅝ of a yard, or about 60 cm of an appropriate width.
[Editors note: Choose a canvas appropriate for the wool you are using (I know - sounds obvious). Most tapestry wools are design for a thread count of between 10 and 14.

The quantities given for tapestry wool skeins of 15 yards each:
11 Dark Brown
9 Rust
8 Grey
1 Lime

Size Matters

Designed to cover an "average" chair at 17 inches square.

Tension

Most tapestry wools are design for a thread count of between 10 and 14; This design appears to be for a count of about 10, using the picture as a guide.

A Word on the Wool

This design is made using Beehive tapestry canvas No 702, and Beehive tapestry wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2021

Spring Outlook

SpringOutlook

Man's sweater with a textured pattern, made in two colours intended to blend with each other. The overall tweedy look makes this colour scheme look a little autumnal - perhaps the acid green combined with grey or a different shade of green might be more redolent of Spring.
I think the cropping of the picture is an illustration of "never let knitting get in the way of a good photo".

Instructions.

Sweater is worked in stripes of the two colours using a textured moss stitch. Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike

With No 9 needles and main shade (M), cast on 104/108/112 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7/9/11 stitches evenly across the last row.
[111 / 117 / 123 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and work in pattern as follows:
Do not break off colour M, and join in contrast (C).
1st row, using C (right side facing): Knit in contrast colour (C).
2nd row, using C: Knit in C.
Do not break off C, but pick up M again.
3rd row, using M: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row, using M: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Do not break off M, but pick up C again ready for the next row.

These 4 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in the pattern until work measures 16 inches, ending with the second row of the pattern.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 91 / 95 / 99 stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25 / 25½ / 25½ inches, ending with 4th pattern row.
Break off contrast C.

With right side facing continue in M and shape neck:
Next row: Rib 29 / 30 / 31, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Rib to end
Next row: Rib 27 / 28 / 29, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Next row: Cast off 7 / 8 / 9 in rib, rib to last 2 stitches, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Next row: Cast off 8 / 8 / 8 in rib, rib to last 2 stitches, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Cast off remaining 8 / 8 / 8 stitches in rib.

With right side facing, slip the centre 33 / 35 / 37 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Rejoin M wool to last 29 / 30 / 31 stitches, rib to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 / 52 / 52 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across the last row.
[50 / 59 / 59 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in C and continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 8th row until there are 79 / 83 / 83 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Continue straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 18½ / 18½ / 19 inches, ending with 2nd pattern row.

With right side facing, keeping pattern correct, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 37 / 39 / 39 stitches remain.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 21 / 21 / 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck Ribbing - back and front alike.

With No 9 needles, main shade M, and right side facing, start at shoulder edge and pick up and knit, 8 / 8 / 8 stitches down side of neck, rib 33 / 35 / 37 stitches from spare needle or stitch holder, pick up and knit 8 / 8 / 8 stitches up other side of neck.
[49 / 51 / 53 sts]

Work 3 rows in rib over all stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row.

Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.
Join neck with a flat seam.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press all seams.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
16/17/18 x 1oz balls in darker main shade(M);
12/13/13 oz in contrast "cool lime"(C).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 9 (3¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Spare needle or stitch holder.

Tension

20sts and 25 rows to four inches on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
37-38/39-40/41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26 inches;
sleeve seam:
18½/18½/19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
M: main dark colour
C: contrast lighter colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Flair - one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never caught on so much in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight . As usual no clues as to the yardage, but it was 60% wool, 40% courtelle (acrylic).

Note that later on Patons made "Flair DK" in 20g balls and with a slightly different wool blend.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SpringOutlook-detail

January 2021

Fuller figure twinset

FullerFigureTwinset.jpg

"Fuller figure" shown off on a suitably matronly figure for the post-rationing 1950s - but actually means a pleasing pattern in a reasonable size range for this century.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 6 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Jumper Back


With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 116 (122 : 128 : 132 : 138 : 148) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1, p1, rib, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5, repeat from * to last 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8) stitches, work twice into next the stitch, rib 3 (6 : 9 : 5 : 8 : 7).
[135 (141 : 147 : 153 : 159 : 171) sts]

Change to size 8 (4mm) needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p3, * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows once, then the 1st row once.

6th row: * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch.
7th row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice.
12th row: As 2nd row.
These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 59 (65 : 71 : 75 : 81 : 91) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches remain.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder

Jumper Front

Follow the instructions for the Back from to until 69 (73 : 77 : 79 : 83 : 93) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:

1st size only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 24 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 13 stitches remain.

Keeping the neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes only
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (25 : 26 : 27 : - : -) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until - (17 : 21 : 25 : - : -) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 13 stitches remain. Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

5th and 6th sizes only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (- : - : - : 28 : 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until - (- : - : - : 13 : 16) stitches remain. Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

All sizes:
Slip the centre 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches onto a spare needle. Join in wool at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Short Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 80 (86 : 86 : 92 : 92 : 98) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for ¾ of an inch, ending with a wrong side row and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and work in pattern as given for the Back until the work measures 3 (3 : : : : ) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 57 (67 : 65 : 71 : 69 : 73) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 9 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open.
With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, knit across the 9 stitches at the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches at the centre front; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 9 stitches on the top of the Right Sleeve, and knit the 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches from the back neck.
[108 (112 : 116 : 116 : 120 : 126) sts]

Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cardigan Back

Follow the instructions exactly as for the Jumper, but on completion cast off the stitches at the back neck.

Cardigan Left Front

Using size 10 needles, cast on 60 (60 : 66 : 66 : 70 : 76) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 6 : 6 : 5 : 5), repeat from * to last 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 4 : 4 : 4 : 7).
[ 69 (69 : 75 : 75 : 81 : 87) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and pattern as given for Back until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches, from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armhole and Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th (5th : 4th : 5th : 4th : 4th) row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until 13 (17 : 19 : 22 : 24 : 29) stitches remain.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sizes only:
Still decreasing at the neck edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until - (8 : 9 : 7 : 9 : 9) stitches remain.

All sizes:
Keeping neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

Cardigan Right Front

Follow the instructions exactly as for Left Front, reversing all shapings.

Cardigan Long Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 58 (60 : 60 : 62 : 62 : 64) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 4 (5 : 5 : 3 : 3 : 4), repeat from * to last 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7) stitches, work twice into the next stitch, rib 3 (5 : 5 : 6 : 6 : 6).
[ 69 (69 : 69 : 75 : 75 : 75) sts].

Change to size 8 needles and pattern.
Increase, and work into the pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 16th (10th : 10th : 11th : 11th : 8th) row until there are 81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Follow instructions for Sleeves of Jumper from to .
Cast off.

Cardigan Front Bands

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for ½ (½ : ½ : ¾ : ¾ : ½) of an inch.
1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib, casting on 3 stitches over the cast off stitches in the previous row.
Work 4 more buttonholes at intervals of 2½ ( : : : : ) inches, measured from base of previous buttonhole.
Continue in rib until Band is long enough, slightly stretched, to fit up Right Front, across sleeve tops, back neck and down Left Front.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Jumper
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Sew zip into left back raglan seam, then join remainder of seam.

Cardigan
Using a back stitch, join raglan, side and sleeve seams.
Sew on Front Band. Neaten buttonholes and sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting
Jumper:
18 (19 : 20 : 21 : 23 : 25) x 25g balls
Cardigan:
24 (26 : 27 : 29 : 30 : 32) x 25g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles

4 inch (10 cm) zip fastener for back neck of jumper

5 buttons for cardigan

Tension

26 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern

Size matters

To fit chest 40 (42 : 44 : 46 : 48 : 50) inches - actual measurements are 1½-2 inches larger;
length from top of shoulders: 22 (22¼ : 23 : 23¼ : 24 : 24½) inches;
short sleeve seam:
3 (3 : : : : ) inches;
long sleeve seam:
16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn Emu Superwash Double Knitting. This is a standard pure wool double knitting which was also available in 50g balls measuring 130 yards (119 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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