Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes as this is intended an "oversized" top - but, with the specified yarn as written, it measures up to 40 inches. However, you can see from the shape and construction method, it would be easy enough to expand, either by adding stitches or experimenting with a slightly less fine thread.

Mesh Pattern:

Multiple of 3 ch plus 7 ch to turn.
1st row: into 8th chain * work 1 dtr, 2 ch, miss 2 stitches; repeat from * to end.
2nd and following rows: 5 chain to turn, which counts as 1st dtr and 2 chain, * work 1 dtr into dtr of previous row, inserting hook under 3 strands, 2 chain, repeat from * to end.

Back and Front

The beach robe is worked in one piece, beginning at the lower front edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) hook, make 195(204) chain plus another 7 chain to turn, which count as 2 ch of base of 1 st, 1 dtr and 2 ch.
Work in mesh pattern. [66(69) dtr and 2 ch spaces]
[Editor's note: this notation "dtr and 2 ch space" indicates that you have that many "holes" in the mesh, each set of 3 chain make one "hole" plus 1 as part of the turning chains.]

Work straight.
When work measures 17 inches, on this row, add 30(33) chain plus 7 ch to turn, for the sleeves.
Leave these stitches and this end of the word for a moment - do not break yarn.
At the other end of the row, using another ball of the yarn, work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the row and than make 33(36) chain. Break yarn.
Return to other stitches and yarn at the other side of the piece, then work 1 dtr into the 8th chain, 2ch, work 10(11) dtr plus 2ch spaces as for foundation row of mesh pattern, continue across 66(69) dtr of main piece, then work 11(12) dtr across chain stitches.
[88(93) dtr and 2 ch spaces].

When work measures 26¾(27¼) inches, using 1 strand of yarn from a separate ball of yarn, make front neck opening.
Work 1 slst into the 24th(26th) dtr, counting from the sleeve edge, work 122 ch, miss 40(41) dtr, 1 slst into 24th(26th) dtr from the other end of the work .
Break yarn.

Now work in mesh pattern across (88(92) dtr and 2 ch spaces.

When work measures 9¾(10¼) inches from neck opening, leave 11(12) dtr unworked at each end of the row.
Work on 66(68) dtr at the centre of work.
When work measures 17 inches from under arm, work 10 rows in dc.
Fasten off.

Work a border of 10 rows in dc at the lower edge of the front and also and around the sleeves.
Work a border of 10 rows in dc along each side of the neck, opening, decreasing 1 dc at each end of every row.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Stitch side and under arm seams.
Close neck borders by stitching together at the sides..

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Fil d'Ecosse No 8, now discontinued but sometimes seen on eBay. This is quite a fine 100% cotton thread probably equivalent to a 3ply weight in wool. (Make sure you look for "No 8" cotton - there were other weights for this yarn - the higher the number the thicker the thread).
When substituting, compare the specified gauge and yardage per 50g to get a good match. You can search for "thread yarns", cottons for weaving, and cotton supplied on cones, as well as suitable fine knitting cottons..

At the current time of writing: Laughing Hens, Love Crafts, Yeoman Yarns, Yarnoncone

Materials

No 8 crochet cotton.
5 balls, each with a yardage of 285 metres.

No 14 (2mm) crochet hook.

For the purse: 25g No 8 crochet cotton.
1 button

Tension

13 dtrs x 10½ rows to 4 ins over mesh pattern using 2mm hook.
[39sts to 4inches in knitted stocking stitch]

Size matters

To fit size 10-12 (14); actual measurement: 40 (42) inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook
dtr: double treble: Pass wool twice round hook, insert hook into st, pull 1 loop through, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through remaining 2 loops.
slst: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Neck Purse

Back and Flap:
Begin this first sections the with flap edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) crochet hook, make 15 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, then continue in dc to end[15 dc].
1st row: 2 dc into 1st dc, 13 dc, 2 dc into last dc.
2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th rows:Work 2 dc into first and last dc.
5th, 7th, and 9th rows:Work straight
[29 dc]
11th row: Work a buttonhole at centre of work: work 13 dc, 3 ch, miss 3 sts, 13 dc.

Work straight until 58th row has been completed.
Decrease 1 dc at each end of the row, by missing 1st dc and last but one dc, on 59th, 61st, 63rd, 65th, 66th, 67th and 68th rows.
Fasten off.

Make a second section for the Front:
Make 29 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 29 dc across row for 23 rows. Decrease at each end of the row (by missing 1 st st and last but one st) on the 24th, 26th, 28th, 30th, 31st, 32nd and 33rd rows.
Fasten off.

Borders:
Rejoin yarn at the 33rd row of the beginning of the first (back and flap) section.
Work slst all the way round, working as follows:
Into the straight sections: * 1 slst into each row end 3 times, miss 1 row end, repeat from *.
Into curved sections: work 1 slst into each row end,
At the ends: work 1 slst into each dc.

1st row: On wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness
of the chain formed by the slst row.
Work a 2nd row, inserting hook into both dc of 1st row and into one thread from the edge of work. (This ensures that work lies flat and does not curl up.) This is to be worked across the top edge of flap only.

On front section of purse, work the row of slst then on wrong side of work, 1 row in dc.
Join the 2 sections with 1 row of slst.
Sew on button.
Make a cord by twisting 12 strands of wool, about 3¼ yards long. [The finished cord should measure about 34 inches].