Instructions.
If you've never tried an Aran pattern before then a moderately straightforward
bag might be a nice way in. It's not overly simple, but it does include
enough basic techniques in cabling and texture for you to try out Aran
in a "safe space".
Bag (main part):
Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 6 rows in
garter stitch.
Increase row: k2, (kfb, k2) twice,
p1, pfb, p2, pfb, p1, (kfb, k1) 3 times, p2, k1, p2, (k1, kfb) 3 times,
p1, pfb, p2, pfb, (k2, kfb) twice, k2. [59 sts]
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and pattern:
1st row (right side): (k1tbl, p1)
5 times, k8, p9, cross 5, p9, k8, (p1, k1tbl) 5 times.
2nd row: k10, p8, k9, p2, k1, p2,
k9, p8, k10.
Continue keeping 10 stitches at each end of rows in rice stitch, as on
these 2 rows. The stitches formed in the centre of the diamond are also
in rice stitch.
3rd row: rs10, cable 4 back, cable
4 front, p8, c3r, k1tbl, c3l, p8, cable 4 back, cable 4 front, rs10.
4th row: k10, p8, k8, p2, k3, p2,
k, p8, k10.
5th row: rs10, k8, p7, c3r, p1, k1tbl,
p1, c3l, p7, k8, rs10.
6th row: k10, p8, k8, p2, k. 5, p2,
k8, p8, k10.
7th row: rs10, cable 4 front, cable
4 back, p6, c3r, (k1tbl, p1) twice, k1tbl, c3l, p6, cable 4 front, cable
4 back, rs10.
8th row: k10, p8, k6, p2, k8, p2,
k6, p8, k10.
These 8 rows form pattern for the double ribbon cables next to the rice
stitch borders, so continue keeping these correct also as you start the
diamond.
9th row: pattern 18, p5, c3r, rs7,
c3l, p5, pattern 18.
10th row: k10, p8, k5, p2, k9, p2,
k5, p8, k10.
11th row: pattern 18, p4, c3r, rs9,
c3l, p4, pattern 18.
12th row: k10, p8, k4, p2, k11, p2,
k4, p8, k10.
13th row: pattern 18, p4, k2, rs11,
k2, p4, pattern 18.
14th row: As 12th.
The diamond now starts to close up.
15th row: pattern 18, p4, c3l, rs9,
c3r, p4, pattern 18.
16th row: As 10th.
17th row: pattern 18, p5, c3l, rs7,
c3r, p5, pattern 18.
18th row: As 8th.
19th row: pattern 18, p6, c3l, rs5,
c3r, p6, pattern 18.
20th row: As 6th.
21st row: pattern 18, p7, c3l, p1,
k1tbl, p1, c3r, p7, pattern 18.
22nd row: As 4th.
23rd row: pattern 18, p8, c3l, k1tbl,
c3r, p8, pattern 18.
24th row: As 2nd.
These 24 rows form one pattern.
Continue until you have completed the 6th pattern, then repeat the 1st
row again.
Decrease row: (k2, k2tog) twice, k2;
p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1;
(k2tog, k1) 3 times; p2, k1, p2, (k1, k2tog) 3 times; p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog,
p1; (k2, k2tog) twice, k2. [45 sts]
Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.
Shoulder Straps
Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 7 stitches.
1st row: k1, (p1, k1tbl) twice, p1,
k1.
2nd row: purl.
[Editor's note: knitted
straps can be very stretchy, so I might be inclined to purchase appropriate
bag handles of leather, or PVU - otherwise I would try and line the handles
with a strip of lining material or webbing.]
To make up the bag
Fold the bag in half with right sides inside and garter stitch edges
level.
Backstitch along the side edges and press seams lightly.
Turn right side out.
Press the straps to prevent them from curling.
Fold the lining material in half and place the bag on it, making the fold
level with the lower edge of the bag.
Cut out the lining in double material, using the bag as a guide and allowing
¾ inch for seams along each side.
Sew up the side seams taking ½ inch seams so that the lining will
be
slightly full.
Fit the lining inside the bag, and turn under ½ inch at the top edges
and slipstitch these folded edges to the last row of the pattern so that
garter stitch borders are left free and unlined.
Pin the cast-on edges of the straps to the side seams of the bag placing
straps inside the garter stitch edging allowing about ½ inch overlap.
Sew very securely.
Lap the pointed ends of the straps one over the other with a 6 inch overlap
and pin at centre. Sew on 2 press studs to hold the pointed ends of the
straps in place.
Sew the two halves of another press stud to the lower ends of the straps
so that pointed ends could be fastened here if a short strap is required.
Sew the remaining press stud on to the centre of the garter stitch border
at the top of the bag to hold it closed.
Beret
Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 105 stitches, and work in garter
stitch for 6 rows.
Increase row: k1, p1, pfb, p1; *
(kfb) 4 times, p2, make 1 by picking up loop lying between needles and
knit it through back loop, p2, (kfb) 4 times, (pfb, p1) twice, pfb; repeat
from * 4 times more; (kfb) 4 times, p2, make 1 as before, p2, (kfb) 4
times, p1, pfb, p1, k1.
[176 sts].
Change to the No 7 (4½mm) circular needle working backwards and
forwards in rows, and work in pattern as follows:
1st row: p1, * k1, p8, cross 5, p8,
k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p4, k8, p2, k1, p2,
k8, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * cable 4 front, p7,
c3r, k1tbl, c3l, p7, cable 4 back: repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
You will notice that, at the beginning and end of rows, the cables are
separate; these will come together when the seam is joined, and along
the row the two parts of the cable form the same double ribbon cable as
on the bag.
4th row: k1, * p4, kfb, k6, p2, k3,
p2, k6, kfb, p4; repeat
from * to last stitch, k1
5th row: p1, * k4, p7, c3r, p1, k1,
k1tbl, p1, c3l, p7, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1, * p4, k7, p2, k5, p2,
k7, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * cable 4 back, p6, c3r,
rs5, c3l, p6, cable 4 front, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
8th row: k1, * p4, kfb, k5, p2, k7,
p2, k5, kfb, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1,
9th row: p1, * k4, p6, c3r, rs7, c3l,
p6, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: k1, * p4, k6, p2, k9, p2,
k6, kfb, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1,
11th row: p1, * cable 4 front, p5,
c3r, rs9, c3l, p5, cable 4 back; repeat from * to last stitch, p1,
12th row: k1, * p4, kfb, k4, p2, k11,
p2, k4, kfb, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [212 sts]
The increases are now complete.
Continue without shaping with stitches as now set working the diamond
and cable patterns the same as on bag until 20th row has been worked,
then start to decrease.
21st row: p1, * k4, p2tog, p7, c3l,
p1, k1tbl, p1, c3r, p7, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 3 rows in pattern without shaping to complete the 1st pattern.
Now start 2nd pattern:
1st row: p1, * k4, p2tog, p8, cross
5, p8, p2togtbl. k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 3 rows in pattern without shaping.
Keeping pattern correct, continue to decrease in these positions on the
5th, 9th, and 13th rows.
Work 3 rows after the last decrease row.
17th row: p1, * k4, p2tog, c3l, rs7,
c3r, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Change to straight No 7 (4½mm) needles and continue to decrease
in same positions on the 19th, 21st, and 23rd rows.
24th row: k1, * p4, k2togbl, p2,
k1, p2, k2tog, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [92 sts]
Finish the top as follows:
1st row: p1, * k2, k2tog, p1, slip
next 2 stitches on to the cable needle and leave at back, k2tog, k1, then
k2tog, from cable needle, p1, k2togtbl, k2; repeat from * to last stitch,
p1.
2nd row: k1, * p2tog, p1, k1, p3,
k1, p1, p2togtbl; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * k2togtbl, p1, k3tog,
p1, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: p2tog, * slip 1, k2tog, pass
slipped stitch over, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
Break wool leaving half a yard, and thread this double through the remaining
13 stitches, draw up tightly and sew securely.
Join seam and press.
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Materials
Aran Bainin:
Bag: 4 x 50g Beret: 4 x 50g
[7 balls may make both items]
One pair each No 7 (4½mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
One No 7 (4½mm) circular needle.
Cable needle
¾ yard (70cm) lining fabric.
4 large press studs.
Tension
20sts x 26 rows to four inches over rice stitch
Size matters
Bag: Approx. 12 inches (30cm) long by 10 inches (25cm) wide.
Beret: Width across top of head 11½ inches - fits an "average"
head.
Abbreviations
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)
kfb/pfb: knit/purl in front and back of stitch (one stitch increased)
tbl: through back of loop(s)
cross 5: slip the next 2 stitches on to cable needle and leave
at back of work; k2; pass the purl stitch from the other end of the cable
needle back onto the left-hand needle, and bring the cable needle to the
front of the work; p1 from the left-hand needle; k2 from the cable needle
c3l: cross 3 left: slip the next 2 stitches onto the cable needle
and leave at front of work; p1; k2 from cable needle
c3r: cross 3 right: slip the next stitch onto the cable needle
and leave at back of work; k2; p1 from cable needle
cable 4 back/front:
slip next
2 stitches onto cable needle and leave at back/front of work; k2, then
k2 from cable needle
stocking stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side
("stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knitted
rs: rice stitch - knitted over 2 rows as described in the pattern
A Word on the Wool
The original wool is a standard Irish pure wool Aran - on the thicker
side at 18 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch.
Disclaimer
(well...almost)
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced,
in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please
and I will try and assist.
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