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Archive entry for December 2024

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December 2024

Seventies Glamour

SeventiesGlamourSkirt.jpg

Here we have the "maxi" - the new "thing" after the stunning popularity of the mini skirt, which had become de rigeur for almost a decade since it's scandalous introduction in the early sixties. The maxi didn't really take on in quite the same way - often not as convenient or appropriate for every occasion (and, I have to wonder, on what occasion would this be truly appropriate). However, half a century later, our skirt lengths are now routinely mini, maxi, or, of course, "midi".
Nonetheless, I'm not sure how many of you will be rushing off to find your needles and get started. In truth, despite their trying very hard with the styling of the photo, I'm not sure how many people it would have appealed to even at the time, (up-to-the-minute maxis? yes; woollen hand-knitted skirts? hmmm). The presentation is typical of the era - a "look" for an implied lifestyle - you have Habitat furniture and shop in the Portobello Road. I think the inclusion of the harp - more as an objet d'art than a musical instrument (you might hang your hat on it, or casually start to play...) - is intended to suggest the seventies off-beat bohemian lifestyle aspired to by those who would a decade later be called yuppies.

Nice and cosy alternative to sweat pants or pyjamas under the desk for working from home...?

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is the "maxi" skirt]

Back and Front alike

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade M, cast on 140/148/156/164 stitches and, starting with a knit row, work 7 rows stocking stitch, increasing 5 stitches evenly across the last row.
[145/153/161/169 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): knit, thus forming ridge for hem-line.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows stocking stitch.

** Join in contrast yarn C and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work rows 1 - 22 inclusive from chart A.

GlamourSkirtChartA.jpg

Repeat the 8 pattern stitches across, with the last stitch on knit rows and the first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows instocking stitch in C. Break C. **

Work 10 rows straight.

1st decrease row: (k 10/11/12/13, k2togtbl) twice, knit to last 24/26/28/30 stitches, (k2tog, k 10/11/12/13) twice.
Work 9 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: as 1st. [137/145/153/161 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 9 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **.

*** Work 4 rows straight.
Next decrease row: as 1st.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows twice, then the decrease row once more. ***
121/129/137/145 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 17 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **, then work from *** to ***.
[105/113/121/129 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 25 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

**** Join in C. and work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 needles and work rows 1 - 14 inclusive from chart B.

GlamourSkirtChartB.jpg

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch in C.
Break C. ****

Work from *** to ***.
[89/97/105/113 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 31¾ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from **** to ****.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Next decrease row: as1st.
Work 3 rows straight.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0/1/1/2 times more.

Next decrease row: as1st. [81/85/93/97 sts]

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 36½ /37/37/37½ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p 7/10/8/12, (p2tog, p 11/19/13/22) 5/3/5/3 times, p2tog, p 7/10/8/11. [75/81/87/93 sts]

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work in rib as follows
1st row(right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.

Repet the last 2 rows until belt measures 30/32/34/36 inches or the required length.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Special Note: Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for sewing, taking care that the yarn remains twisted during making up.

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join side seams.
Fold hem at ridge to wrong side and slip stitch the hem loosely in position all round.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew inside waist ribbing, using herringbone stitch over the elastic to form a casing.
Press seams.
Make a backing for the belt with the petersham and attach the buckle to one end.

Materials

10/11/12/12 (1 oz) balls double knitting yarn in main shade, chilli, and
4/5/5/6 in contrast shade, pink.

Pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm), 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist.
Buckle and length of petersham for belt.

Tension

23sts and 30 rows to 4 inches using No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit:
34 / 36 / 38 / 40 inch hips;
Length: 37½ / 38 / 38 / 38½ inches.

Abbreviations:

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops, (or "ssk": slip, slip, knit).

M = main colour
C = contrast

A Word on the Wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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