Pattern of the Month

French Poodle

2013-06-14T07:14:46Z

How very 1950s! How very French!.
How could I resist?
At first glance I assumed this was the more usual toilet roll cover (because nobody wants their spare toilet rolls exposed to the world do they?) - but no! It is a "bottle" cover. How much better to have a knitted poodle gracing the dining table rather than leaving your Castle Lafite Rothschild labels tastelessly speaking for themselves. [Actually I think it looks like it's designed for the sherry bottle - perhaps to hide the little nip you need to get through the housework.]

Alternatively you can wimp out and knit it as a toy - provided your child is also into retro 1950s toys, (did I mention that as a kid my favourite toy was a poodle ? ... he wasn't knitted though ..... Pom Pom .... ‹closes eyes in reminiscence ›)

[Please note: This has not been knitted up to test the pattern but is provided as per the original. The shapes are very simple and the main effort is in the making up.]

Instructions.

The poodle is knitted mainly in garter stitch with some eyelet rows to carry elastic and drawstring. I think the two methods of assembly have not been quite thought through in the original pattern, so you need to use your common sense and refer to the picture when sewing it together.

Body

With No 8 needles cast on 49 stitches, and knit 2 rows.

Next row: * k1, wf, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue in garter stitch (every row knit) until work measures 7½ inches from the beginning.

Next row: * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [42 sts]
Knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [28 sts]
Knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [21 sts]
Knit 1 rows.

Next row: K1; * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [11 sts]

Thread wool through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely. [Editor's note: I think there is a bit of an implied error here - this is the neck, so only draw up to the degree that the neck of the bottle will fit...]

Head

Cast on 49 stitches, and knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [42 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: * k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [28 sts]

Next row: * k1, wf, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue without any shaping for 3 inches.

Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [14 sts]
Next row: Knit.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [7 sts]

Thread wool through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Nose

Cast on 12 stitches, and work 1½ inches in garter stitch.

Next row: * k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [8 sts]
Next row: Knit.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [4 sts]

Thread wool through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Pom-Poms

Make 8 pom-poms, 2½ inches in diameter.
Make 2 pom-poms, 1¾ inches in diameter.

Cut 2 pieces of cardboard the diameter of the finished pom-pom; cut a ½ inch diameter hole in the centre. Wind wool over the rings until the centre hole is filled. With a sharp pair of scissors, cut through the wool at the outer edge. With double wool, bind round the centre of the pom-pom between the two pieces of cardboard; tie a knot and fasten off securely. Remove the cardboard. Fluff out and trim.

To Make Up

Join back seam.
Thread elastic through the holes in the bottle cover base and join securely.
Sew one large pom-pom to the back seam at the bottom edge (tail), and sew 4 large pom-poms on the front to represent the legs.
Using small pieces of cotton wool, stuff the nose and sew securely to the front of the head, ½ inch from the holes.
[Editor's note: I think there is a bit of nose-sewing here that is not fully described; so extemporise.]
Embroider the mouth and sew on the 2 buttons to represent the eyes.
Sew a large pom-pom to each side of the face, and on on top of the head. Sew the 2 smaller pom-poms between these (see photo).

Take 4 strands of light coloured wool and thread through holes at neck and secure with a small knot. Tie in a bow.
[Editor's note: This seems to be pictured as being covered with a ribbon tied in a bow - so again I am guessing a little something missing where you need to extemporise. When you draw up the neck remember it has to be able to fit round the neck of the bottle. The head is not stuffed - it is tubular and filled by the neck of the bottle.]

To Make Up the Poodle as a Toy

Follow the instructions for the Bottle Cover.

[Editor's note: After this there are a few inconsistencies which you need to work out as you go.]

Assemble as the bottle cover.

Insert a circle of cardboard 3 inches in diameter into the bottom of the body.
[Editor's note: As far as I can tell, the cardboard will be exposed at the bottom of the toy; you might want to knit a piece of use fabric to cover it before putting in place.]

Make a roll of stuffing 13 inches long and insert this into the base firmly, leaving excess sticking out for the head to fit over.
Run a strong thread through the top edge of the body (neck) and pull up tightly around the excess stuffing, and tie off.

Fluff out the stuffing slightly and fit head over it; pull down and stitch over body.
[Editor's note: As far as I can tell, this excess stuffing sticking out of the neck is pushed up into the head, where the neck of the bottle would have been in the bottle-cover version.]

Materials

4 ozs. Bri-Nylon Double Knitting, plus a short length of contrast wool.

6 inches (15cm) of narrow elastic.

A pair each of No
8 (4mm) "Aero" needles.

2 buttons.

For the toy: cardboard for the base and toy stuffing.

Tension

No tension is given but a normal tension for standard DK on No 8 needles is 22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

No size is given but presumably it fits "a bottle".

Abbreviations

wf: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

How to make pom-poms.

This is a different method which I ran across while looking for the simple tutorial above. It's less relevent for making our Poodle maybe but good if you want to make a load of these for a scarf or a necklace (ok - bit dated perhaps - think of your own project!)

Mock Cable Cardigan

2013-05-01T23:27:36Z

Doesn't this picture have a wonderful fresh spring feel? As if summer is just around the corner. It looks just right with a summer dress, to fling casually over the shoulders for those cooler English summer breezes - or for a more formal look - buttoned up with a scarf plus a narrow tweed skirt (and possibly gloves!) to complete the outfit (see photo at the end).
This design has been calling to me for quite some time but as usual I have yet to find the time to try it out. So here it is untested.
"raglan armholes and and firm ribbed bands for this useful cardigan in white to go with everything"

Instructions.

Figures in bold blue given in brackets, refer to the larger size; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Back

With No 13 needles cast on 123 (133) stitches and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, starting the first row, k1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern thus:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p2; repeat from * to last stitch 3 sts, k3.
3rd row: * p3, k2tog, but do not slip these stitches off the needle, now knit into 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
4th row: as 2nd row

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 12½ (13) inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 103 (113) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulders as follows:
Cast off 3 (4) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, and 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off remaining 43 stitches.

Left Front

Left. With No 13 needles, cast on 58 (63) sts and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back. Work straight until front matches back at side edge up to the armholes.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every following alternate row until 48 (53) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½)inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulder and neck edge as follows:

Next row (armhole edge): cast off 3 (4) stitches; pattern to end.
Next row (neck edge): cast off 3 (3) stitches; pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 15 (15) rows, and at the same time shape at the shoulder edge by casting off 3 (4) stitches; at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, then 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 13 needles, cast on 59 (59) sts, and work 2½ inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 4sts evenly across on last row. [63 (63) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row, until there are 97 (97) sts, taking the eextra stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 16 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

**
Next row: p3 slip1, k1, psso; pattern to the last 5 sts, k2tog, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
Next row: p3, k1, pattern to the last 4 sts, k1, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
**

Repeat from ** to ** 3(5) times more: [85 (81) sts]
Now continue to decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 border stitches, as before, at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5(5) stitches remain.
Knit back.

Next row(right side facing): p2, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p1, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p3tog.
Fasten off.

Front Borders and Neckband

Pin sleeves into armholes - top of sleeve fits right across shoulders to neck edge. Sew carefully in position.

Front Borders: With No 13 needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a strip in k1/p1 rib to go up right front, round back of neck, and down left front.
Make 8 buttonholes up right front - first one to come ½ inch from lower edge, 8th about ½ inch below neck shaping, and remainder to be evenly spaced between.
To make a buttonhole: With right side facing, rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5, turn; rib 5. cast on 3, rib 5.

Sew border strip in position as you go along.
To turn corner at start of neck shaping on right front, work as follows: with right side facing, rib to last 3 sts., turn, rib back;
rib to last 6 stitches, turn, rib back;
rib to last 9 stitches, turn, rib back.
[Editor's note: You are working short rows to curve the knitting.]
Continue straight in rib over all stitches to start of neck shaping on left front, and then, with right side facing, turn corner in the same way.
Continue in rib until strip fits down left front.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts only very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.
Press all side seams.

Materials

14 (15) ozs. Patons Quickerknit Botany Patonised in white.

A pair each of Nos
13 (2¼mm) and 9 (3¾mm) "Beehive" needles.

8 white pearl buttons.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 26sts x 34 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 2 sizes to fit bust:
33-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of shoulders, 22 (22½) ins; and sleeve seam, 16 (16) inches.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase. Using a DK yarn with 4mm needles might increase the size to a range of 39-44 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Yarns called "quick knit" "quickerknit" and such variations evolved as a compromise for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply.

These days, there are quite a few yarns that might have a suitably similar tension as "light weight" double knits.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino ( 125m per 50g ball) is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge. If I were going to knit this cardigan, this is what I would use.

BUT - how much you might need is open to question. Most of the baby quick-knits were blended or completely synthetic and thus probably had a better yardage than pure wools. The name of the original yarn "Botany" implies it might have been a pure wool but who knows what "Patonised" implied and I have no idea of the yardage.
15oz is about 420g - so 9 x 50g balls sounds plausible for a medium sized cardigan with a textured stitch - but better to buy too much than too little.

The French manufacturer Phildar has traditionally offered ranges in this kind of yarn weight, but in practical wool/synthetic blends, currently for example: Laine Merino Alpaga, Phildar Partner 3.5, Fil Oxygene - all coming in at around 110-130m per 50g equivalent.

Bergere de France is a manufacturer whose yarns I know little of but they seem to have at least two suitable offerings eg: Annecy, Coton Fifty.

It was a bit of a surprise to me to find that I can't find much in the way of baby yarns with this designation any more.
Patons Quickerknit Baby is no more - though they currently produce Patons Beehive Baby Sport, which seems to be a kind of equivalent; Sirdar Snuggly Quick Knit is discontinued - relatively recently it seems. Both the above are acrylic and nylon mixes with a yardage of about 180m to 50g.

]]>

Easter Baby Bonnet

2013-04-02T15:58:18Z

This looks like a little Victorian cherub, though the pattern is much later. It uses a combination of smooth and fluffy 4 ply yarns in a relatively simple crochet motif.
I think the bonnet is particularly cute.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.

Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Fair Isle for Spring to wear out when the sun shines

2013-03-02T23:15:16Z

"Carefree and colourful sweater for him uses sparkling motif designs to wear out and about over the week-end when the sun shines" Carefree it may be.. but a double knitting fair-isle for Spring? That's a novel idea. However, I'm sure "a thick sweater to wear on a wet Spring weekend" is also a suitable maxim, so here we are.
[Editor's note: Here we are indeed.... I wrote this at the end of February - and now on March 11th we have sub-zero temperatures and blizzards raging in the South of England (and the Channel Islands). So this sweater choice.... "just perfick" for March.]
The main picture is a low resolution photo that does not quite show the pattern detail to the full; this is because I just had to include the wonderful backdrop to the sweater with record player and vinyl albums. These cool cats are from the early sixties but are listening to 1950s American jazz. You can see more clearly how the pattern looks in the chart at the end.

Instructions

Two sizes are given, with the larger size created by using a larger sized needle. Do check your tension with whatever yarn type you use, as the fair-isle patterning will tend to make the knitted fabric tighter than normal.

Back:

**
Using main colour Charcoal (C), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - for both sizes - cast on 126 stitches and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row: [127 stitches]
Next row: knit.
Next row: purl.

[Editor's note: The original instructions are written out line by line as reproduced below. I have created a chart which you can see at the end of the pattern.]

Change to No 8 (4mm) [7 (4½mm)] needles, join in white (W), and star pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit: 1W; * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: knit: * 1W, 5C, 3W, 1C, 3W, 5C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
4th row: purl: * 6C, 7W, 5C; rep, from * to last stitch, 1C
5th row: knit: * 2C, 4W, 3C, 1W, 3C, 4W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
6th row:: purl: * 3C, (3W, 2C) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
7th row: knit: * 4C, (2W, 1C) 3 times; 2W, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in Nasturtium Red (N).

8th row: purl: * 5N, 3W, 3N, 3W, 4N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.
Break N and rejoin C.

Repeat rows 7 through to 1 inclusive, in that order. (That is, the reverse of what you just knitted).
Break W.
Work 3 rows stocking-stitch in colour C.

Rejoin W and continue as follows:-

19th row: knit: , * 3C, 1W, 2C, repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
20th row: purl: * 2C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
21st row: knit: 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
22nd row: purl: * 4W, 11C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
23rd row: , * 1W, (3C, 4W) twice, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
24th row: purl: * 2W, 2C, 3W, 5C, 3W, 2C, 1 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
25th row: knit: , * (1C, 2W.) twice, 7C, 2W, 1C, 2W.; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in N
26th row: purl: * 2 N, 3W, 9 N, 3W, 1N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.

Break N and rejoin C repeat rows 26 - 19 inclusive in that order (that is, reversed as in previous sequence)
Break W.

Continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: purl.
2nd row: knit.
3rd row: purl.

Rejoin W
4th row: knit: 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break W
5th row:purl.
6th row: knit
7th row: purl.

Rejoin W
8th row: knit: *3C, 1W, 2C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

Repeat the last 8 rows 5 [4 or 5] times more, then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Shape armholes:
††

Cast off 8 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Rejoin W.

1st row: k2tog W; knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: k2tog; knit: 4C, * 3W,1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last l3 stitches, 3W, 1C, 3W, 4C, k2tog.
4th row: purl:, 5C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 7W, 5C.
5th row: k2tog, knit: 3W, * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, 3W, k2tog.
6th row: purl:, 1C, * 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 5C; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 1C.
7th row: k2tog C, knit: * 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 1C, k2tog C.
Break C and rejoin N.

8th row: purl: 2N, * 3W, 3N, 3W, 9N; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3W, 3N, 3W, 2N.
Break N and rejoin C.

9th row: k2tog, knit: 1W, * (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C, 2W; repeat from * to last 10 stitches, (1C, 2W) twice, 1C, 1W, k2tog.
10th row: purl:, 2W, * (2C, 3W) twice, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 9 stitches, 2C, 3W, 2C, 2W
11th row: k2tog W, knit: * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from
* to last 9 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, k2tog W.
12th row: purl:, 1C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 8 stitches,7W, 1C.
13th row: k2tog, knit: 2W, * 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 1C, 2W, k2tog.
14th row: purl:, 2W, * 3C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, 2W.
15th row: k2tog, knit: * 4C, 1W, 1C; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, k2tog.
Break W

16th row: purl.
17th row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
18th row: purl.
Rejoin W
Repeat the last 18 rows once more.

Next row: k2tog W, knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
Break W. ††

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog C, knit: 1W, * 5 C, 1W; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog C.
Break W

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog , knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Rejoin W
Next row: k2tog, knit: 1C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,
1W, 1C, k2tog.
**

Keeping continuity of pattern continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 47 stitches remain. Pattern back and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back from ** to **.
Pattern back.

Shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, k16, k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first 18 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every knit row until 2 stitches remain.

K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, return to remaining stitches, slip centre 25 stitches, on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 20 stitches, k2tog., pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and C, cast on 56 stitches and work 3 inches k1, p1 rib.

Next row: * k2, knit twice in next stitch, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, knit twice in last stitch. [75 sts]
Next row: purl.

Change to No. 8 [7] needles, join in W and continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: knit: 1C, 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit twice in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, knit twice in last stitch.
4th row: purl.
Join in W

5th row: knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to end.
Break W

6th row: purl.
7th row: knit.
8th row: purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 109 stitches. Work straight until 13 complete patterns and 2 rows of 14th have been done from start.

Now shape top working as for back from †† to †† : 55 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Join In W
Next row: k2tog C, knit: * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 3 stitches,
1W, k2tog C.

Keeping continuity of snowflake pattern decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 5 stitches remain. Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join raglan seams on right sleeve, matching patterns carefully.
Join left sleeve raglan at front.
Neck Ribbing: With No 10 needles and main colour C, start at top of left sleeve and with right side facing. Knit 5 sleeve stitches, pick up and Knit 18 stitches down left side of neck, knit centre 25 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 18 stitches up right side of neck, knit 5 sleeve stitches, then knit 47 stitches from back: 118 stitches.
Work 15 rows k1, p1 rib.
Cast off very loosely in rib using a bigger needle.

Join remaining raglan seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Join neck ribbing neatly, then fold in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.

Press all seams, avoiding ribbing.

Materials

18[21]ozs Patons Double Quick Knitting in Charcoal; 5 [5] ozs in White and 1[1] oz Nasturtium.
[Editor's note: You really need very little of this red colour - enough for about 12 rows.]

Pair each No 8 [7] (4mm [4½]), and No 10 [10] (3¼mm [3¼]).

Tension

24sts to 4 ins using No 8 needles for the smaller size, and 22½ sts to 4 ins using No 7 needles for the larger size, over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 38-40 (41-43)inches.

Length from top of shoulders, 25 (28 or 25½) ins;
sleeve seam, 18½(19½) ins.

Instructions for larger size given in brackets [bold blue]. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size indicate that any standard UK double knitting would work; in the US this yarn weight is probably considered a light worsted.
It's worth checking your tension as, even in the UK, the term double knitting covers a multitude of subtle variations.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Snowflake Pattern Chart

Chart of the first pattern section as given for the Back. This shows the pattern detail not fully visible in the main photo.

Cool Cats and their American Jazz

From the original photo I can just make out the records in the foreground - the ones on the sofa behind the models defeat me...

The Duke Jordan Trio look like they are on the turntable (if not our model's companion is bending the vinyl in the sleeve to an ill-advised angle). The album was recorded on January 28th 1954. Tracks are: Jordu, Scotch Blues, Wait And See, Darn That Dream, Embraceable You, Just One Of Those Things, They Can't Take That Away From Me, and, Confirmation.
Next up for consideration (our model is reading the sleeve notes) is "Krupa and Rich" - both drummers - with an eponymous recording from 1956.
Examples of the music can be found on You Tube.

The record player

It has to be a Dansette doesn't it?
I have to admit I was totally ignorant about this famous brand until very recently. I can't exactly say they were before my time, as they were manufactured between 1952 and 1969, and we did have a record player in that era which was likely to have been a Dansette, but I cannot remember it well enough to say one way or the other.
As to the model in the picture - it looks a bit like the "Bermuda" shown on this fabulous site, though there are some differences. It seems likely as Julie says: "The Dansette Bermuda is by far the model we have the most of in all colours".

Heirloom shawl

2013-02-01T23:18:57Z

A lace baby shawl made in a 3 ply fingering weight, which makes it a bit more feasible to contemplate as a viable project than the traditional 2 ply, while yet remaining fine and lacey. Added to that, it is made up in sections, rather than a single piece which makes it easier to handle, with all the decreasing lace stitches.

Instructions

The shawl is made in 5 pieces: first a centre square, and then 4 mitred borders that are sewn on each side of the centre.

Centre Square

With No 8 needles, cast on 162 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch), sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: k1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch); repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows until work measures 21 inches.
Cast off.

Borders (make 4)

With No 9 needles, cast on 206 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: knit.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows twice more [200 sts].

Change to pattern as follows:-

1st row: p2tog, p4, k2tog, wrn, p2, * (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k 1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2, p2tog
2nd row: k 5, p2, k2, * p7, (k1, p3)twice, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k3.
3rd row: p2tog, p3, wfd, SL1, k1, psso, p2, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p1, p2tog.
4th row: k 4, p2, k2, * p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k2.
5th row: p2tog, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, ,k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; rep, from * 5 times more, p2tog.
6th row: k 3, p2, k 2, * p9, k l, (p1,k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
7th row: p2tog, p1, * wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p1, p2tog.
8th row: k2, p2, k2, * p11, k1, p11, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
9th row: p2tog, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, * k9, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 5 times more, p2tog.
10th row: k1, p2, * k2, p25, k2, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
11th row: k2tog, k1, * p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3,
wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, k l, k2tog.
12th row: * p2, k2, p6, k1, p11, k1, p6, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2.
13th row: k2tog, * p2, (k1, wlfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog
14th row: * p1, k2, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, p7, k2, p1; repeat from * to end.
15th row: p2tog, p1, * k1, wfd, k 3, wfd., kl, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, kl, pl, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, kI, psso, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, pl, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p1, p2tog
16th row: * k 2, p8, k1, (p2, kl) twice, p8, k2, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, p8, k1,(p2, k1) twice, p8, k2.
17th row: p2tog, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, at. 1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2tog.
18th row: k1, * p9, k1,(p1, k1) twice, p9, k2,
p2, k2; repeat from * 4 times more, p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k1.
19th row: k2tog, wfd., k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * p1, sl1, k2tog,
psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k2tog.
20th row: p11, * k 1, p11, k 2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, p11.
21st row: k2tog, k8, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k9; repeat from * 4 times more, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k8, k2tog.
22nd row: p10, * p13, k2, p2, k2, p12; repeat from * 4 times more, p11.
23rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, * k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd., k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog.
24th row: p15, * k l, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k1, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, p4.
25th row: k2tog, k7, p1, * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k7, k 2tog.
26th row: p8, k1, * p3, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k1, p3, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p8.
27th row: k2tog, k6, p1, * k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1. p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k6, k2tog.
28th row: p7, k1, * p2, k1, p8, k2, p2, k2,
p8, k1, p2, kl; repeat from * ending p7.
29th row: k2tog, k5, p1, * k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, pl; repeat from * 4 times more, k5, k2tog.
30th row: p6, k1, * p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p6.
31st row: k2tog, k4, p1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, s1, k2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k4, k2tog.
32nd row: p5, k1, * p11, k2, p2, k2, p11, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p5.
33rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd., sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog.
34th row: p17, * k2, p2, k2, p25; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p2, k2, p17.
35th row: k2tog, k3, * wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k l; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, k2tog.
36th row: p4, * p5, k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6 k1, p6; rep, from * 4 times more, p3.

Cast off 131 sts.

Make 3 more pieces the same.

To Make Up

Pin parts out and press under a damp cloth.
Join borders very neatly to centre square, then join corners of border. Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3 ply Patons Baby Wool.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

In stocking stitch: 26 stitches. and 34 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles.
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

32 inches square.

Abbreviations

wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

The original pattern calls for Patons "Beehive" which is no longer available but Patons do a range of 3 ply baby wools.

Patons Dreamtime Fairytale is 100% wool available in 6 pastel shades; wash at 30°; 50g ball, 230m/252 yards.

They also make Fairytale 3 ply (not "Dreamtime"), which is a mix of acrylic and nylon in white only. Maybe not so perfect for an heirloom shawl.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Fair-Isle Hooded Scarf

2013-01-18T14:49:18Z

A lovely warm idea that has never lost its popularity: a scarf/hood combination. This has an interesting construction with the scarf being double sided, and the hood being more a like a pocket with the intention that it should form soft folds when worn. [I'm more used to a pixie hood type design with a centre back seam].

Hood Scarf:

Using the main colour wool (MC) cast on 108 sts.

1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 9 times more.

** Join in the first contrast (B) and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).

Commencing with the 3rd, row proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off contrast B.

1st row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
3rd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice.

Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures 40 inches
from the beginning, ending on the wrong side of the work.
Repeat from ** to ** 3 times.

Work 18 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.
Press on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Fold the scarf in half lengthways. Sew up the seam for 16 inches, leave 16 inches open to form the hood, sew up the remainder of the seam.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a tube which you press flat to make a double thickness scarf, and the hood is formed by leaving the tube open, so the hood is single thickness.]

Hood Border:

Work a border along one 16 inch side of the hood opening as follows:
With the wrong side of the work facing, using the Main Colour wool and commencing 2 inches from the seam, pick up and knit 108 sts. evenly along the next 12 inches (ending 2 inches from the other seam).
[Editor's note: I know - it seems like you are knitting on the wrong side - but the border is folded back - so it's all OK.]

Next row (right side): Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Join in the second contrast B and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart, proceed as follows:

Commencing with the 3rd row, proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off first contrast (B)
Next row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Proceed as follows:
Next row: Slip 1, kl, * pl, k.l, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the this row once.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up the Scarf.

Sew the ends of the scarf together on the wrong side.
Place the corners of the border to the seam and sew the edges of the border to the 2-inch openings.
Turn back the border and catch-stitch in the centre to hold the border in position.
Using a No 12 Crochet Hook and main shade with the right side of the work facing, work 1 row of double crochet evenly along the other 16 inch side of the hood opening. Using the coloured wools make a mixed fringe at the ends of the scarf.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3ply in main shade plus "medium-sized" balls in each of four contrast colours eg blue, yellow, green and pink.

One pair No 9 (3¾ mm) knitting needles.
One No. 12 (2½ mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Approx. 30sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Width round face edge is 16 inches.
Length of scarf (excluding fringe) is 48 inches.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Nursery Slippers

2012-12-01T08:39:03Z

Toddler slippers for a quickly knitted Christmas gift. The top of each slipper is knitted, and is designed to be attached to a purchased leather sole. You could make your own out of leather (but be prepared to line it - perhaps with quilt batting and fabric, fleece fabric, or a shaped piece of knitting. If you design your own knitted sole you can make it non-slip by sewing on sole-shaped cut-outs from cushioned fabric ("slip-a-grip"); various brand options can be purchased on a roll from kitchen suppliers, or you can buy specialist sewing fabrics for this purpose.
Below I've added a great You Tube link for instructions on how to make your own non-slip soles.

Instructions

Both slippers are worked alike. The following special abbreviation is used throughout the pattern, making a wide ribbed cable.

Tie 5: Insert right-hand needle between 5th and 6th stitches from point of left-hand needle, draw loop through and place on point of left-hand needle, then k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Both slippers are worked alike,

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.
Break wool.

Slip first and last 6 stitches on safety-pins for heel.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the centre 33 stitches and with No 9 needles continue in pattern for instep as follows:-

1st row: p4, (rib 5, p5) twice, rib 5, p4.
2nd row: k4, (rib 5, k5) twice, rib 5, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

5th row: p4, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p.4.
6th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

11th row: p4, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p4.
12th row: as 2nd row.

These 12 rows form pattern.

Repeat, them once more, then rows 1-6 inclusive again.

Continue in pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: 27 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 15 stitches remain. Cast off.

Join side edges of ribbing to form back seam.

For the heel:
Place the two sets of 6 stitches on a No 11 needle. With No 9
needles and right side facing, work in reversed stocking-
stitch as follows:-

Next row: p twice in 1st Stitch, p to last stitch, p twice in last stitch.
Next row: knit. Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 26 stitches ending with a knit row. Cast off.

Finishing

Pin out patterned part and heel of each slipper and press on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Sew slanting side edges of heel piece along side edge of instep piece as far as they will go without stretching; press seams.
Join back seam.

Pin tops to slipper soles and sew firmly in position.

Materials

2oz Double Knitting yarn in Lipstck Red.

One pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

A pair of size 8 soles (about 25 or 26 european size).
[Editor's note: You can try a search for "knitted slipper soles". I came up with this one.

Tension

23 stitches by 31 rows to 4 inches over stocking stich on 3¾mm needles

Size matters

Designed "for a toddler" with some flexibility as to the size of sole chosen. For a larger slipper, experiment with thicker yarn and fit to a larger sole.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn recommended was a standard double knitting. Despite the tension being very slightly tighter than usual due to the 3¾mm needles used, I think a slightly heavier weight - an Aran weight perhaps - would be quite acceptable. A tighter fabric for slippers is probably more desirable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Reindeer jacket (for a small boy)

2012-11-01T07:22:50Z

This looks so cute and would make a lovely Christmas cardigan for a toddler. The fair-isle design is not too challenging and hopefully you have plenty of time to knit for this year's festivities.
One size only I'm afraid, but you could increase it slightly by increasing the yarn weight and needle size.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, kl st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Chart C

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Chart D

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart B

Cloche Cap

2012-10-01T23:25:02Z

Charming retro hat with decorative band and buckle.

I learned from the Debbie Bliss Magazine Autumn/Winter 2012 that one of my favourite designers, Louisa Harding, has been facing up, with her husband, to his challenge of being treated for lymphoma. In appreciation for the help of Macmillan nurses, Louisa is taking part in Macmillan's Nepal Hiking Challenge and seems well on her way to raising her goal of £5000.
To help achieve the target She has put together a series of seven knitting patterns called 'Himalayan Hiking Hats'. She will have her photo taken wearing each one of the hats on the first 6 days of the trek. The seventh hat pattern in the series will be knitted 'en route' and photographed on the 7th (last) trekking day.
Download the hat patterns from her site and show your support by sending a donation.

Instructions.

The main hat is knitted in reverse stocking stitch, with the band in garter stitch. The design is intended for a textured yarn.

Crown

Using the 5 No 10 needles, cast on 8 stitches, placing 2 stitches on each of 4 needles.

1st (and every alternate) round: purl
2nd round: knit twice into every stitch. [16 sts]
4th round: * k1 knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [24 sts]
Mark end of round with a contrast thread, or stitch marker.

6th round: * k2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [32 sts]
8th round: * k3, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [40 sts]

Continue increasing 8 stitches thus on every alternate round until there are 36 stitches on each needle. [144 stitches]
Work 7 rounds straight.

Next round: * k16, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [136 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k15, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [128 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k14, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [120 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k13, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [112 sts]
Work 5 rounds straight.

Cast off.

Band

Cast on 16 stitches, and work a strip in garter-stitch (every row knit) 22 inches long - or length required to fit round head with 3 inches to spare. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off. This forms a point.
Using the wool double, crochet all round the outer edge of the buckle to cover.
[Editor's note: I think this might be trickier than it sounds - either due to the bouclé nature of the yarn or the thickness of the hook you'd need to use. I might be tempted to try a blanket or button-hole stitch around the buckle using the yarn single and a large-eyed darning needle.]

Stitch the cast-on edge of the band to the buckle, then slot the shaped end through the buckle pulling it through until the band fits round the head snugly.
[Editor's note: Again a slight inconsistency in the instructions and the photo here. I don't think it matters if you have a buckle with or without a tongue. If the latter, arrange the size you need and just push the tongue through the knitting. You should catch stitch the band in place, ensuring that it looks as though the end is free, that is, as if you had not stitched it.]

To Make Up

Pin band in position evenly all round crown noting that the purl side of the crown is the right side.
Sew neatly in position stretching band slightly.
Press seam and crown very lightly under a damp cloth using a rolled towel inside hat to keep the shape.

Materials

3 ozs Patons Rimple double knitting in colour Harlequin 1572.

A set of five of No 10 (3¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

A 2½ inch buckle.

Crochet hook.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

An average hat size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Patons Rimple was a softly textured bouclé yarn, (97% wool, 3% nylon), which knitted to a double knitting tension.

This hat is knitted on finer needles than usual so the knitted fabric will be denser and stiffer, giving the hat more body.

There are a few double knitting bouclé yarns available though many tend to be chunky weight. Debbie Bliss seems to have discontinued the Cashmerino Astrakhan but you can still obtain it at some outlets on the internet (and often discounted). Rowan have recently brought out a British Sheep Breeds "fine" bouclé but this still seems to knit up to a chunkier tension. You can try and obtain the right tension with finer needles - and I think this would produce an excellent knitted fabric for the hat - but be warned that knitting bouclé tightly on small needles is very hard work.

I cannot supply the yardage of Rimple, and can only guess that "Harlequin" was a multi-coloured tweed.

Late summer man appeal

2012-09-01T08:10:52Z

This is almost a guernsey style man's sweater. The "chequered pattern" is similar to the "Jacob's Ladder" in the guernsey tradition, although the raglan sleeve would not be traditional, and the double knitting yarn is a little heavier than the usual 5 ply.
I particularly like the change to to the ridged pattern for the yoke, and the raglan sleeves. I guess if you were up to a challenge, you could thread all the stitches for the yoke sections on one circular needle, and knit in the round as one piece, avoiding any potential bulky seaming. If I ever knit this, I may try that, but you do need to work it out first, as the decreasing for the sleeve sections is usually in a different sequence from the backs and fronts.

"...typical "man appeal" style that will make it a winner..."

Instructions

These 8 rows form ridge pattern:
1st row (right side facing): purl.
2nd and 3rd rows: knit.
4th and 5th rows: purl.
6th and 7th rows: knit.
8th row: purl.

Back:

Using No 10 (3¼mm)needles cast on 104(108)stitches and work 2½ inches in k2, p2 rib, increasing 10(12)stitches evenly across the last row: [114(120)stitches]

Change to No 8 (4mm)needles and pattern:

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: p7(12), k2, * p12, k2; repeat from * to last 7(12)stitches, p7(10).
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
7th row: p7(10), * k16, p12; rep. from * to last 23(26)stitches, k16, p7(10).
8th row: k9(12), * p12, k16; rep. from * to last 21(24)stitches, p12, k9(12).
9th-14th rows: repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.
15th row: k9(12), p12, k16; repeat from * to last 21(24)stitches, p12, k9(12).
16th row: p7(10), * k16, p12; rep. from * to last 23(26)stitches, k16, p7(10).

These 16 rows form pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 15 inches, measuring work down the centre on wrong side.

With right side facing, shape raglans by casting off 5(5)stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 90(96)stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, change to ridge pattern as given at the beginning, and work 2 rows straight, then continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 76(86)stitches remain. Work 3 rows straight.
Continue in ridge pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 36(38)stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Work exactly as for the back until 54(56)stitches remain in raglan. Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, divide for neck as follows:-

Next row: k2tog, pattern 15(15), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work in pattern.
Continue shaping raglan on next and every alternate row as before and at the same time shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following 3rd row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 20(22)stitches on a spare needle, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and pattern to the last 2 stitches; k2tog. Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles, cast on 52(52)stitches and work 2½ inches k2, p2 rib, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the last row: [58 (58)stitches]

Change to No 8 needles and work in pattern.
Your first 2 rows will read for both sizes:-

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: p7, k2, * p12, k2; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p7.

Continue in pattern shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 86(86)stitches. Work straight until sleeve seam measures about 19½ inches, ending with same pattern row as you did when you started the raglan on the back.

With right side facing, shape raglan top by casting off 4(4)stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 64(64) stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, change to ridge pattern as for back and work 2 rows straight, then continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 50(50) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 10(10) stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern, and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Neck Band:

Join raglan seams matching patterns carefully.

With the set of 4 No 10 needles and right side facing, start at left raglan seam on front and pick up and knit 18 stitches down left side of neck;
knit across 20(22) stitches on the spare needle, increasing as follows: k2(3), {pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it, knit 4} 4 times, pick up horizontal loop as before, k2(3);
pick up and k18 stitches up right side of neck;
k10 sleeve stitches;
k36(38) stitches from back increasing as follows: k6(7), {pick up and knit to back of horizontal loop as before, k4} 6 times, pick up and knit loop as before, k 6(7);
k10 sleeve stitches: [124 (128) stitches]

Work in rounds of k2, p2 rib for 2½ ins.
Cast off loosely in rib using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

23(24)ozs Patons Double Quick Knitting in Golden Beige 6117

Pair each No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm), plus a set of four No 10 (3¼mm)needles, pointed both ends for neck-band.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to 4 ins using No 8 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 38-39(40-41)inches;
actual size seems to be 41/(43)inches.

Length from top of shoulders, 26/(26) inches; sleeve seam, 19½(19½)ins.

Instructions for larger size given in brackets (bold blue). Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

A word on the wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

String Bag

2012-08-02T11:48:36Z

A crochet "holdall" or "tote" made in dishcloth cotton (subsequently re-branded craft cotton). This one is lined and the craft cotton is soft and flexible. You could make it from a coarser type of jute, (I would use a larger hook), and leave it unlined, to use as a vegetable or market bag. I have also seen some excellent bags and bowls made from Herdwick yarn; these are crocheted very tightly to create a rigid fabric so the bags will keep their shape unsupported.

Instructions

The bag is made in one piece starting at the base, and the straps are then attached separately.

Bag

Start at the base and make 21 ch.
Work in rounds as follows:

1st round: Work 3 dc into 2nd ch from hook; 1 dc in each of next 18 ch; work 3 dc into last ch; then continue along other side of ch by working 1 dc in next 18 ch; join with slip stitch to first dc of round. [42 sts]
2nd round: (inc1, 1 dc, inc1, 18 dc) twice. [46 sts]
3rd round: (2 dc, work 3 dc in next dc 20 dc) twice. [50 sts]
4th round: (1 dc, inc1, 1 dc, inc1, 1 dc, inc1, 19 dc) twice. [56 sts]
5th round: (3 dc, inc1, 2 dc, inc1, 2 dc, inc1, 18 dc) twice. [62 sts]
6th round: (5 dc, inc1, 3 dc, inc1, 21 dc) twice. [66 sts]
7th round: (9 dc, inc1, 23 dc) twice. [68 sts]
8th round: (6 dc, inc1, 6 dc, inc 20 dc) twice. [72 sts]
Base is now complete.
Next round: Make ridge by working 1 dc into back loop only of every stitch

Increase round: (inc1, 8 dc) 8 times. [80 sts]

Work in ridge pattern as follows:-

1st round: Work 1 dc in each dc.
2nd round: as 1st round but working into back loops only.

Repeat last 2 rounds until work measures 11½ ins. from the the first ridge worked at completion of base.
Fasten off.

Straps (Make 2)

Make 49 ch and work in rows.

1st row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next 47 ch , I ch , turn.
2nd row: Miss 1 dc, 1 dc in next 47 dc, 1 ch , turn.
3rd row: as second round
Fasten off.

To Make Up:

Cut piece of card to fit base.

Cut lining, 18 x 24 inches (this lines the depth of bag and allows for gathered top as well).

From remainder of material, cut two strips for lining handles, 15 x 2 inches, and for base, draw round the card shape on material and cut out about 1 in. away from pencil outline.

Cover one side of card with lining, folding over and sticking surplus material onto the other side.
Pin one longer edge of lining round covered side of base, then stitch in position.

Join the 2 side edges of lining to make a tube.

Top Finish: Fold over top edge of lining to wrong side to make 3½ inch hem, and stitch in position. ¼ inch down from top folded edge. make 2 rows of stitching, ½ inch apart, for draw-string. Open seam between the 2 rows and insert tape.
[Editor's note: This assumes you are going with the covered-in draw-up top, but this can be left off if you wish to make the bag as a shopper.]

Slip lining into bag and stitch into position by catching the 3½ inch hemline behind crochet (about ½ inch down from top of edge of crochet).

Catch lining to base.

Line handles and stitch on each side of bag.

Draw up tape and tie.

Materials

2 x 4oz. hanks Dishcloth Cotton.
No 6 (5mm) crochet hook.
Piece of stiff card for base.
½ yard 36-inch wide glazed cotton for lining.
1 yard white tape for draw-string.
[Editor's note: This gives the bag a covered draw-up top, but this can be left off if you wish to make the bag as a shopper.]

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: = chain
dc: = double crochet
inc1: increase by working 2dc into 1dc

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Tension

3 stitches to 1 inch in width.

Size matters

Depth: 11½ inches; Oval base: 9½ x 4½ inches.

A Word on the Wool

There are a number of brands sold as "dishcloth cotton" or "craft cotton" but it's a little pot luck with the thickness - you will have to experiment with the tension and how you want the bag to look. You are looking for an Aran weight yarn with a yardage of about 75m to 50g.

Lion Brand Cotton is fairly common in the US and would be suitable if you can obtain it (and comes in exciting colours too...).

You can literally use balls of string for this kind of bag but I've always found that works out surprisingly expensive.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Cooler Trend for Summer II

2012-07-21T17:05:45Z

For an even cooler trend for summer - which seems all too possible this year in the UK - another early sixties light woollen top with bracelet length sleeves (my favourite). This design seems very representative of the 1960s to me, with its plain simplicity and straight body-line, combined with heavier design work emphasising the sleeve.
"...decorative stitches and scooped necklines make pretty tops to wear on summer days..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 3 sizes with the larger sizes; where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back and Front alike.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 132/140/148 stitches loosely and work 24 rows in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.
Make a hem on the next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Purl back.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until work measures 14 ins. down centre, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes: by casting off' 7/5/9 stitches at beg. of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 96 stitches remain.

Shape neck:

Next row(right side facing): k2tog, k16, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: p2tog, purl to end.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain; p2, then k2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 60 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, k16, k2tog.

Next row: purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No. 11 needles, cast on 99/111/111 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: knit.
6th row: * k4, wfd, k2tog; rep, from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
7th row: purl.
8th row: k1, * k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
9th row: purl.
10th row:k1, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, repeat from * to last 6 stitches; wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
11th row:: purl.
12th row: * k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; k2tog, wfd, K1.
These 12 rows form the lace pattern.
Repeat them 9 times more.
Next row: knit.

Shape top as follows:

1st row: cast off 9, purl to end.
2nd row: cast off 9, knit to end.
**
3rd row: p2tog, purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
4th row: knit.
5th row: k2tog, * k4, wI.fwd., K2tog; repfrom * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2tog, k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
8th row: purl.
9th row: k2tog., k4, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k3; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, k2tog.
10th row: purl.
11th row: k2tog, * k3, k2tog, wfd, k1; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog.
12th row: knit.
13th row: as 3rd row.
14th row: knit. **
Repeat from ** to ** 2/3/3 times more: 45 stitches remain.
Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Yoke

Join raglan seams.

Stitches for yoke are arranged on the circular needle for easy working but pattern is worked backwards and forwards with a backopening.

Using a spare No 11 needle, divide 60 stitches at back onto 2 needles.

With right side facing and using the circular No 11 needle, knit 30 stitches from left side of back, pick up and knit 11 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of front, k60 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 10 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of back, then knit remaining 30 stitches: 253 stitches

Next row: knit.

Continue as follows:-

1st row: k6, * wfd, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k4, * k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k3, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2, * k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, wfd, k3.
8th row: knit.
9th row: purl.
10th row: knit.
11th row: purl.
12th row: * k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
24th row: * k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
36th row: * k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1: 145 stitches

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows stocking stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off loosely.

Cuffs

With No 12 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 60/66/66 stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 37 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neck border and cuffs in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.
With No 12 needles and right side facing, pickup and knit 35 stitches along right side of back opening.
1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, k2tog, wfd, * k4, k2tog, wfd, repeat from * 4 times more, k2.
3rd row: knit.
Cast off.
Press all seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8/9/9 ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in Powder Blue.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles, and a circular No 11 needle for the yoke.

6 small buttons.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 32-33/34-35/36-37 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21/22/22 inches; sleeve seam: 12 inches all sizes.

Abbreviations

wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

This is a good time to look for fine yarns as all the main companies seem to be offering them in a wider range of qualities and colours.

3 ply weight might be a bit harder to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

]]>

Cooler Trend for Summer I

2012-07-21T16:15:13Z

Well we certainly have a cooler trend for summer here in the UK, so this early sixties short sleeved light woollen top might be just the right thing. For myself, I prefer either sleeveless or three-quarter sleeves, (which might prove a relatively simple adaptation), but I think the collar is a very pretty and original design.
"...designs for the warm spells use fine wools and feminine touches for trimming..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 2 sizes with the larger size given in brackets, (bold blue); where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Front

**
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 118 (124) sts and work 1½ (2½) inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 10 (12) sts evenly across the last row. [118 (124) sts]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P21 (25) * k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21 (25).
2nd row: K21 (25), *p2, k8, p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
3rd row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21(25).
4th row: k21 (25), *p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; p2, k21 (25).
5th row: p21 (25), * k2, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1, m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog., psso, k1, m1k, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts., k2, p21 (25).
6th row: k21 (25), * p2, k2, p3, k2, p5, k2, p3, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
7th row: p21 (25), * k2, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2 tog., m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1k, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
8th row: k21 (25), *p2, kl, p5, kl, p5, k, p5, k1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
9th row: p21(25), * k2, p1, m1p, k7, slip 1, k2tog, psso k7, m1p, p1; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, k2, p21(25).
10th row: k.21 (25), * p2, k2, p15, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
11th row: p21(25), * k2, p2, m1p, k6, slip1, k2tog, psso, k6, m1p, p2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p2l (25).
12th row: k21 (25), * p2, k3, p13, k.3; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
13th row: p21 (15), * k2, p3, m1p, k5, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k5, m1p, p3; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
14th row: k21(25), * p2, k4, p11, k4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
15th row: p21(25) * k2, p4, m1p, k4, slip1, k2tog, psso, k4, m1p, p4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
16th row: k21(25, * p2, k5,p9, K 5; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
17th row: p21(25), * k2, p5, m1p, k3, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k3, m1p, p5; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
18th row: k21 (25), * p2, k6, p7, k6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
19th row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, m1p, k2, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k2, m1p, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
20th row: k21(25), * p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
21st row: p21 (25), * k2, p7, m1p, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1p, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
22nd row: k21 (25), * p2, k8; p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
23rd row: p2l (25), * k2, p8, m1p, slip 1, k2tog, psso, m1p, p8; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
24th row: k21(25), * p2, k19; rep, from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
25th row: p21(25), * k2, p19; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
26th row: as 24th.
27th -30th rows: as 25th and 26th rows worked twice.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until 3 patterns and 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at beg, of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch. at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 100 (104) sts remain. Work one more row in pattern.
**

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row: pattern 43 (45), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work in pattern.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30) sts remain.
Keeping continuity of pattern work straight until 5 patterns and 28 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 10 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 14 sts, pattern to end. Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

BACK SLEEVES

Back

Work as for front from ** to** ; [100 (104)] sts
Continue straight in pattern until back matches front at armhole edge. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9(10) sts at the beginning of the of next 4 rows, then 10 (10) sts at beg, of the next 2 rows. Cast off remaining 44 sts.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 80 (80) sts and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 4 sts evenly across on last row. [84(84) sts] Change to No 10 needles and pattern arranging stitches as follows:

1st row (right side facing): p20, [k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, P7] twice, k2, P20.
2nd row: k20, [p2, k8, p3, k8] twice, p2, k20. .

Continue thus keeping continuity of lace pattern until 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 38 sts remain. Work one row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 sts remain. Work one row and cast off.

Neck Frill

With No 12 needles, cast on 16 sts.

1st row (right side facing): k5, p6, k5.
2nd row: p5, turn, k5.
3rd row: p16.
4th row: k5, turn, p5.
5th and 6th rows: as 3rd and 4th rows.
7th row: k5, p6, k5.
8th row: p5, turn, k5.
9th row: k5, p1, cast off 4, p1, k5.
10th row: p5, turn, k5.
11th row: P6, cast on 4, p6.
12th row: k5, turn, p5.
13th row: p16.
14th row: k5, p6, k5.
15th - 18th rows: as 1st and 2nd rows twice.
19th row: p16.
20th row: k5, turn, p5.
21st - 28th rows: as l3th-20th rows.

Repeat rows 5-28 inclusive 16 times more, then rows 5-20 once. Cast off.

With No. 12 needles, cast on 5 sts and work 23 ins. k1, p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work very lightly under a damp cloth..
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join neck frill neatly; pin into position all round neck so that garter- stitch in the centre of the border and the frill overlap on to main work. Catch down neck edge just below top frill on wrong side, then catch down other edge to main work at garter-stitch border at back of lower frill, (so stitching is hidden by the frill). Thread ribbed strip through slots in neck border and join neatly.

Press all seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8 (9) ozs Patons Nylox Knitting 4-ply in "Palamino"
[Editor's note: I'm guessing a golden beige.]

A pair each Nos 12 and 10 (2¾mm and 3¼) needles.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34-35 (36-37) inches; length from top of shoulders: 20½ (21½) inches; sleeve seam: 3½ (3½) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

m1k: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

Patons Nylox was designed as a sock wool with 25% nylon as the name implies. It was quickly appropriated for children's items as it was hard wearing and fine weight. By the 1960s, nylon was the material of choice, producing almost indestructable knitwear in brilliant non-fade colours - so this versatile nylon-rich wool was an ideal choice for lighter-weight summer clothes.
[Editor's note: Nylon lost its glamour in the1970s when we all went back to nature - everything in moderation, I say.....]

Any standard 4ply yarn is suitable, and currently there are a lot of them about in a good range of colours for grown-ups, such as Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, Rowan Pure Wool 4ply, and Susan Crawford's Excelana 4ply aimed at vintage knitters.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

]]>

Baby Shawlette

2012-06-12T12:58:39Z

This is so very easy to knit and looks so cute over a (Liberty?) cotton baby frock. No idea how practical it is to keep in place, but it has secure back fastening straps and is perfect as a gift or for that special summer baby occasion.

Instructions

The shawlette is worked in garter stitch (every row knitted) throughout. You start your knitting at the bottom of the back and work up towards the neck, where you divide and complete each front section separately. It is designed to cross over at the front, and button into place at the back.

Using No 12 needles, cast on 50 sts and work in garter stitch for ½ inch (approximately 8-9 rows).

Next row(make eyelets): K6; ** wrn, k2tog; repeat from ** to last 6 sts; k6.
Next row: Knit.

Start to shape the back as follows:

1st row: K6, wrn; knit to last 6 sts; wrn, k6.
2nd row: Knit

Repeat these two rows, (increasing 2 sts on each alternate row), until there are 115 sts. Your work then measures approximately 5¾ inches from the beginning.

Now start to shape the right front, working each side of the neck separately.

Next row: K6, wrn, k40, turn.
Leave the remaining 69 sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, wrn, k2tog; knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, wrn, k3tog, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: Knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k2tog, k5").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches.

Next row (make buttonhole): K2, cast off 2, knit 2.
Next row: K2, cast on 2 over those cast off, knit 2.
Next row: K2tog, k2, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog and pull thread through to cast off.

Now pick up the sts left on the spare needle and join yarn to neck edge where you left off. Cast off 23 sts then, start to shape the left front, by knitting to the last 6sts, wrn, k6 [47 sts].

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to last 8sts; s1,k1,psso; wrn, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, s2,k1,pass 2 slipped sts over; wrn, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to end

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k5, s1,k1,psso").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches, and finishing with a buttonhole as for the right front.

To Make Up

Do not block or press.
Sew in all ends.
Sew buttons to back to attach front straps.

Materials

1 x 40g ball 4ply fingering yarn.

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm ) needles.

2 small buttons.

Tension

30sts x 58rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Size matters

To fit 3-6 months (18-19 inch chest).

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend.
You could use beautifully soft Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, or experiment to make a larger size using Baby Cashmerino (check out with a swatch for both needle size and drape).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here's a view showing you the back.

Welly Socks

2012-05-06T08:01:04Z

It may seem unseasonal to feature thick woolley socks in May but it's been the wettest April for many decades apparently, so it seemed appropriate.
This is a useful pattern for a couple of reasons. One is that it's knitted in Aran weight yarn - though you need several balls so not exactly good for using up scraps; the other is that they are perfect socks for Wellingtons (see the photo - try not to be frightened by the model's excessive yet manly body hair!).
They should be hard wearing as they are knitted to a firm tension, and I have knitted a couple of highly successful pairs in the past (now given away as gifts, so not illustrated).

Instructions.

Cast on 60 sts, 20 on each of three needles.
1st round: * k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round for 5 inches,

Next round: * p3, k1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round until work measures 16 inches.

Shape ankle

1st round: Pattern 10, p2tog; pattern 8, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [58 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1, p4, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures l8 inches.

Next round: Pattern 5, p2tog; pattern 16, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [56 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, (p3, k1) twice; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures 21 inches.

Slip the first 28 stitches on the first needle for the heel, and continue to work with these for the heel.

Divide remaining stitches on two needles and leave for instep.

Shape heel

1st row: k27, turn.
2nd row: p26, turn.
3rd row: k25, turn.
4th row: p24, turn.

Continue thus, working one stitch less on every row until the row ‘p10, turn’ has been worked.

Next row: k10; pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and knit it together with the next stitch, turn.
Next row: p11, pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and purl it together with the next stitch, turn.

Continue thus working one stitch more on every row until all the stitches are worked onto one needle again. [28 sts]

Next row: k14, thus completing heel.
Mark this point, which is the back of the leg, and the marker for the start of each round.

Slip the instep stitches back onto one needle again, so you have the stitches distributed over the 3 needles 14/28/14, and you are ready to start he next round.
Keep the two lots of 14 stitches in stocking stitch (this will make the sole) and continue the rib pattern in rounds until work measures 6 inches from marked point. If you want to adjust the length of the foot, do so here by knitting more or fewer inches.

Shape toe

1st round (1st needle): knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (2nd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (3rd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the end of the round.
2nd round: knit.
Rep. these 2 rounds until 24 sts. remain.
Knit the stitches from first needle and then slip them on to the end of 3rd needle, (12 sts on each needle).

Making up

Graft or cast off the stitches from two needles together.
Sew in all ends.
Press lightly, or shape over a sock shaper.
Fold the ribbing at the top in half to the right side.

Materials

7 x 50g balls Aran weight yarn.

One set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

21sts x 29 rows to 4ins over stocking stitches.

Size matters

Length of foot: 11 inches (adjustable).
Length from top to base of heel: 21 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k2tog tbl: knit 2 together through back loops (also known as "ssk"; or slip1, knit1, pass the slipped stitch over).

A Word
on the Wool.

Original yarn was Patons Capstan which was their standard Aran weight pure wool. I used a vintage Robin Tweed pure wool when I knitted my version.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Pattern of the Month

French Poodle

Instructions.

Body

Head

Nose

Pom-Poms

To Make Up

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Materials

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Size matters

Abbreviations

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Left Front

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Sleeves

Front Borders and Neckband

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Instructions:

Bonnet:

Mitts:

Materials

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Crochet abbreviations:

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Instructions

Back:

Front:

Sleeves:

To Make Up

Materials

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Instructions

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Borders (make 4)

To Make Up

Materials

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Abbreviations

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Disclaimer (well...almost)

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Hood Scarf:

Hood Border:

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Materials

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Instructions

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Finishing

Materials

Tension

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