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August 2017

Beach Coat

BeachCoat1.jpg

Warm wrap for the beach with a hood - completely appropriate for a breezy British summer's day!.
The wrap is lined with towelling (optional) - and I think this is an excellent idea for a beach wrap. You will need to choose as fine (thin) a towelling fabric as you can because the wrap will already be fairly chunky even though it is made from a light weight quickknit or 5ply.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Navy Blue by B, Green by G, and Pink by P.

Back

With colour B, cast on 130 (138) stitches and work 3 inches straight.
Fold work in half and make a hem on the next row.
Continue straight in B until piece measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to G and work 4 inches Break G.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to P and work 3 inches Break P.
Change to W and work straight until back measures 16 inches from
lower edge.
Continue in W and shape armholes by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off stitches

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows. Work 8 rows straight on remaining 46 (46) stitches
Transfer these stitches on to a spare knitting needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Right Front

With Colour B, cast on 68 (72) stitches and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row : Purl, casting on 10 (10) stitches at end of row for facing front edge.

Continue straight in B until work measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Join in W and continue in striped pattern exactly as for back until stripe in P is done. Break P.

Continue in W until front measures 16 inches from lower edge,
ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next row for armhole, then work straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off
stitches ending at armhole edge.

Next row (wrong side facing): shape shoulder by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the front edge, then work 8 rows straight on remaining 26 (26) stitches.
Transfer these stitches on to a spare needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Left Front

As for right front, cast on 68 (72) stitches in colour B, and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row (wrong side facing): cast on 10 (10) stitches for front edge facing, purl to end.

Work to correspond with right front reversing the shapings.
Editors note: the cast off for the armhole and shoulder are with right side facing, and the cast off for the front edge is with wrong side facing.

Sleeves

With colour B, cast on 80 (80) stitches and work 4 inches straight in stocking-stitch for facing. Break B.
Change to W and work straight for a further 4 inches

Continue in W and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 100 stitches, then at each end of every following 4th row until there are 120 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve measures 20 (20) inches down centre from start of W.
Cast off loosely right across.

Hood

First Half:
With wrong side of work facing, slip 26 stitches from right front and 23 stitches from back of neck on to one needle. [49 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): * p2; purl twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [65 sts].

Continue in W and work 2 rows straight, then cast on 17 stitches at front edge for facing. Work 12½ inches straight.
Cast off.

Second Half:
Work to correspond with first half.

Facing:
Join back and top seam of hood.
With colour B, cast on 27 stitches and work a strip to fit all round front
edge of hood. Cast off.

To Make Up

Editors note: lining the coat with fine towelling is optional (as is the colour of the lining material). However, if you are planning to do so, it is a good idea to cut out the lining using the knitted pieces as a pattern guide, at this point - before you sew the coat together. Allow ¼-½ inch turnings for the seams.

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, pinning out each piece to shape and taking care not to stretch centre edges on fronts.
Join shoulder seams.
Pin cast-off edge of sleeves along armholes in between the 10 cast-off stitches at start, then pin side edges of sleeves to the cast-off stitches thus giving a square effect to sleeve top.
Sew in position.
Join sleeve and side seams, matching stripes carefully.

Fold under 10 facing stitches down front edges and slip-hem lightly in position; catch down neatly at neck and lower edge.
Fold under 4 inches of blue facing on sleeves and catch down lightly all round on wrong side.

Press lightly and turn back 2½ inches of facing on to right side for cuffs.
Sew the white facing ribbon all round neck on wrong side just below start of hood, inserting cord as you do so. With W wool, bind or knot cord 1 inch in from each end, then fringe ends for tassels.

Sew blue facing all round front of hood, right sides facing, and along cast-on stitches at each side; turn width of facing on to wrong side and press; catch down neatly all round so that stitches do not show through on right side. Fold back on to right side and catch down at sides to keep in position.

Press all seams.

Line back, fronts and hood with yellow towelling if required.

Materials

Quick-knit, 5ply, or light double knitting: 14(15) 1oz balls in White, 6(6)oz in Royal Blue, and 2(2)oz each in Carnival Pink, and Shannon Green.

A pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

2 yards of fine yellow towelling for the lining; 1 yard of white facing ribbon; 1¼ yards white cord.

Tension

26 sts to 4 ins on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35(36-39) inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 26 inches
Sleeve seam: 16 ins with cuff turned back.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Quickerknit Botany.
Note that 1 oz is about 28g.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality and available in wonderful range of colours. [Though if you really want to use it al lot on the beach you might want to look for a less luxurious fibre option].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Make a Hem

There are a number of tutorials on You tube about making an invisible hem as you knit.

This one shows you two ways - the first part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

This one shows you a number of ways to make a hem starting with just making the hem at the end when you sew up. The latter part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

BeachCoat2.jpg

July 2017

Crochet Sun Hat

SunHat1.jpg

Instructions.

Note: Yarn is used double throughout.

Make 5 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch (ss) in 1st chain.
1st round: 3 ch, 9 tr into ring, join with ss in top of 3 ch. [10 sts]
2nd round: 3 ch, 1 tr in base of 3 ch, 2 tr in each stitch to end, join
with Ss in top of 3 ch. [20 sts]
3rd round: 4 ch, * 1 tr in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * join with Ss in 3rd of 4 ch. [20 ch sp]
4th round: Ss in 1st ch SP, 1 dc in same ch SP, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in first dc.
5th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st ch SP, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in 1st dc
6th and 7th rounds: as 5th.
8th round: 1 ch, 2 dc in 1st ch SP, * 3 ch, 2 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in 1st dc.

Repeat the last round 13 times more.

Make row of holes for cord as follows:
22nd round: 2 ch, 2 htr in 1st ch SP, * 2 ch, 3 htr in next ch SP; repeat from * ending last repeat, 2 ch, Ss in top of 2 ch.

Brim

23rd round: Ss in next st, 1 dc in this st, * 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch SP, 2 ch, 1 dc in 2nd htr of previous round; repeat from * ending last repeat, 2 ch, Ss in 1st dc.
24th round: Ss in next ch SP, 1 ch, 2 dc in same ch SP, * 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 htr in 1st dc.
25th round: 1 ch, 2 dc in 1st ch SP, * 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch SP; repeat from * ending 1 htr in 1st dc.
Repeat the last round 6 times more.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

To prevent heavy pressing and use of an iron, either of which could be injurious to fabric, some yarns state that they should not be pressed. Light pressing is suitable as follows:
Block brim by pinning out round edge and lightly press using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth.
Using 4 strands of yarn together make a twisted cord and thread through holes, tie in a bow at back.

SunHat2.jpg

Materials

3 x 50g balls in double knitting yarn.

A No 6 (5mm ) crochet hook

Tension

10 stitches and 7 rows measures 2 inches (5cm) over brim pattern.

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
SP: space
Ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
htr: half treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was "Promise" which was a brand name used more than once by Patons. This one is almost certainly the very slightly bouclé, fluffy yarn "with tricel" from the early seventies. In the eighties it was produced as a more fluffy synthetic double knitting/worsted.

June 2017

Cool Beauty

BlushingBride.jpg

"Roses All the Way"
The copy says "cool beauty with openwork patterning", and, lovely though she looks in a shady garden, I cannot help thinking that a June bride would be a bit hot and bothered dressed head to toe in knitwear.
It might be lovely for a winter wedding however, and given the time it would take to tackle such a project, you definitely need to plan ahead!.

Instructions

The pattern panel for the dress is worked over 5 stitches as follows:

1st row: yfwd, k2togtbl., k1, k2tog, yfwd.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd., k1.
4th row: purl.

Front

‡‡
Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 187 (203 : 221) stitches and starting with a knit row, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.
Work a further 11 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the centre of the last row on the 2nd size only. [187 (204 : 221) sts]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch, placing panel patterns as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, pattern 5 as 1st row of panel pattern, * k12, pattern 5 as 1st row of panel pattern; repeat from * to last
6 stitches, k6.
2nd row: p6, pattern 5 as 2nd row of panel pattern, * p12, pattern 5 as 2nd row of panel pattern; repeat from * to last 6 stitches , p6.

Keeping continuity of panel patterns, work thus until front measures 24 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.

1st decrease row: k2, k2tog, k2, pattern 5; * k5, k2tog , k5, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 6 stitches; k2, k2tog, k2. [175 (191 : 207) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k2, k2tog , k1, pattern 5; * k5, k2tog , k4, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k1, k2tog, k2. [163 (178 : 193) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k1 , k2tog , k1, pattern 5; * k4, k2tog , k4, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 4 stitches; k1, k2tog, k1. [151 (165 : 179) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

4th decrease row: k1, k2tog, pattern 5; * k4, k2tog, k3, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; k2tog, k1. [139 (152 : 165) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front measures 39 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with 1st pattern row.

Next row: p2, pattern 5, * (p2tog) twice, (p2togtbl) twice, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 2 stitches; p2. [99 (108 : 117) sts]

Now work in lace pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * k1, yfwd, sl 1, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k1, C4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k1, yfwd, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k3.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row
: k2, * yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd, k4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches , yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd, k2.
4th row: purl.
These 4 rows form the lace pattern.

Continue in lace pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 115 (124 : 133) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 45 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.
‡‡

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the of next 2 rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 97 (102 : 103) stitches remain; then decrease at each end of every alternate row until 83(88 : 91) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until front measures approximately 49½ (50 : 50½) inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with 2nd pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 30 (31 : 32), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Continue on these stitches for the first side, shaping neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 22 (23 : 24) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until front measures 52 (52½ : 53) inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 (6 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 23 (26 : 27) stitches on a stitch holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches. Finish to correspond with
first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes and divide for back opening as follows:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern 53 (58 : 62), turn and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
Continue on these 53 (58 : 62) stitches for the first side, and work 1 row straight.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 48 (51 : 51) stitches remain, then on every alternate row until 41 (44 : 45) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern on these stitches until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 (6 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 7 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, casting off 1 stitch at the centre on the 1st and 3rd sizes only. Finish to correspond
with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 53 stitches and work 1½ inches in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and ending with right side facing.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.

Now work a further 1½ inches stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row and ending with right side facing. [54 sts]

Change to No 10 needles, and starting with 3rd row, work in lace pattern as for bodice on front, shaping as follows:

Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 11th (3rd : 3rd), and every following 15th (13th : 11th) row until there are 74 (78 : 82) stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve seam measures 17 inches from row of holes at wrist, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the of next 2 rows.
Work 2 rows straight.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 58/62/64 58 (62 : 64) stitches remain, then at each end of every alternate row until 28 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off.

Bonnet

Main part: With No 12 needles, cast on 125 stitches and work 1½ inches in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and ending with right side facing.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.

Starting with a purl row, work a further 1½ inches in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row and ending with right side facing. [126 sts]

Change to No 10 needles and starting with 3rd row, continue in lace pattern as on bodice of dress, until work measures approximately 5 inches from row of holes, ending with 2nd pattern row.

Change to No 12 needles and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and decreasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row. [125 sts]
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work a further 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.

Bonnet back part: With No. 10 needles, cast on 30 stitches and
work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 42 stitches.

Continue straight until bonnet back measures 5½ inches, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side, following instructions (if any) on the ball band, taking care not to spoil the lace pattern on bodice, sleeves and bonnet by over-pressing.

Dress: Join shoulder seams.

Dress Back Borders:
Left: With No 12 needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in garter stitch, (every row knit), until strip fits up left side from start of opening to neck edge. Sew in position as you go along.
Cast off.
Right: With No 12 needles, cast on 61 (65 : 69) stitches and work 6 rows stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work a further 7 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.
Fold border in half at row of holes to form picots, then sew in position along right side from start of opening to top of neck, leaving seven ½ inch spaces in seam to form buttonholes.
First mark position of buttons on button border with pins to ensure even spacing, then make holes to correspond. The first to come ½ inches above division, the last to come ½ inch below neck edge, and the remainder spaced evenly; oversew neatly round each buttonhole.

Neckband:
With right side facing and No 12 needles, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 4 stitches across top of left border, 19 (21 : 21) stitches from back, 18 down left side of neck, knit 23 (26 : 27) from front, decreasing 1 stitch at centre on 2nd size only, pick up and knit 18 up right side, 19 (21 : 21) from back and 4 from right border.
[105 (111 : 113) sts].
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off loosely.
Fold neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Fold picot hems in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press
Place stud at top of neckband.

Bonnet:
Fold picot hems on edges in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position. Sew main part to back leaving small picot hem free.
Fold small picot hem at neck edge only towards back of bonnet and catch down.
Bonnet border: With No. 12 needles, cast on 7 stitches
1st row: k2, (p1, k1) twice, k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 3 times, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits along neck edge from left side to right side, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along.
Now work a further 3½ inches in rib, ending with 2nd row.

Next row: rib 2, cast off 2, rib to end and back, casting on 2 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off.
Press seams. Sew 1 small button on left side.
Divide flowers into 2 bunches and sew on either side.

Materials

Dress: 15 (17 : 18) x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe in white.
Bonnet: 2 x 50g.

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
Stitch-holder.
Cable needle.

7 small buttons.
Press stud.

Small artificial flowers and 1 button for Bonnet.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 36) inches, 81 (86 : 91) cm;
length from top of shoulders, 52 (52½ : 53) inches;
sleeve seam, 17 inches all sizes.

Bonnet: Average hat size.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward
sl: slip
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
C4: cable 4 by slipping the next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Kingfisher Tricel/Nylon, or Patons Cameo Crepe.
The quantities of yarn stated are for the Cameo yarn - which required more as the yardage for wool is not as great.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BlushingBride2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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