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December 2019

Skating Set

SkatingSet.jpg

Charming offering from the mid-fifties - the era of the "set".
I'm not sure how much of a commonplace activity skating was or is. I guess the climate in the south of the UK and the constant dangers warned of in skating on lakes and ponds meant that in my youth at least it was not a general pursuit outside of ice rinks. I was very keen on roller skating - another 1950s and 60s popular sport - I even owned my own roller skates etc; however the only times I ever tried skating on ice, was at a rink with hired skates.
In the celluloid world, however, any wintry film would not have been complete without its skating scene, and this would have made the perfect accessory. Luckily you could also consider using it without the skating - though it does rather draw to mind US costume dramas.

Instructions

Note: Muff and all white borders are worked using yarn doubled.

Muff

Pocket lining:
Using two strands of white yarn, cast on 31 stitches and work 5 inches straight in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Main Part:
Using two strands of red wool, cast on 49 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1, * k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1tbl, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row: k1, * p1, k1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
6th row: k1, * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
7th and 8th rows: As 5th and 6th.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until work measures 3 inches.
Make pocket opening as follows:

Next row: Pattern 9, cast off 31, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 9, cast on 31, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 14 inches from start.
Cast off.

Borders:
Using two strands of white wool, cast on 11 stitches and
work as follows:
1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 4 times k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 13 inches.
Cast off in rib.
Make another piece the same.

Making up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Cut a piece of lining material to correspond with main part.

Join short sides of muff; insert pocket, joining top to 31 cast-off stitches, then catch down pocket neatly all round.
Sew zip into opening.
Join end of borders and sew in position (stretching slightly) at each end on top of main part.

Turn muff inside out. Wrap 2 layers of wadding round muff and join ends. Join short sides of lining material. Slip lining over wadding and hem neatly to main work just inside ends of muff.
Turn right side out; brush up white borders to look like fur using a wire brush.
[Editors note: Given the choice of yarns available today, you might consider using a textured or furry yarn for the white borders - either a DK equivalent that you use double or a thicker yarn that knits to the right tension.

I seem to remember from my youth that muffs generally had a string attached to hang them round your neck so that you could have both hands free if necessary. I'm not sure if this was just because I was a child and was the equivalent to having your gloves on a string (threaded through your coat sleeves!), but it certainly would make it more practical if you planned to use it for more than skating expeditions.]

Cap

Using single strand of red wool, cast on 108 stitches and work 4½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Change to twisted rib and shape crown as follows:

1st row: * p1, k1 through back of loop; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p1tbl, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: (rib 16 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
4th row:
Work in twisted rib as above.
5th row:
(rib 15 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
6th row:
Work in twisted rib as above.
7th row: (rib 14 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.

Continue in twisted rib decreasing 6 stitches in the same way on every
alternate row until 36 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [18 sts]
Next row:
Purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [9 sts]
Next row:
Purl.

Break wool, draw through remaining stitches and fasten off.

Border:
Using two strands of white wool, make a border worked exactly as given for muff 17½ inches in length when slightly stretched.

Making up

Press lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join seam.
Fold under 2¼ inches of ribbing all round brim to wrong side and slip-hem in place.
Sew border all round hat on top of hem and brush up with a wire
brush as for muff.
Using white wool make a pom-pom and sew to top of hat.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 8 oz in Scarlet and 4 oz in white.

One pair of No 7 (4½mm) needles.

6-inch zip fastener.

White fabric to line muff, and 2 pieces of wadding for padding.

Tension

Cap: 24 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over twisted rib pattern using single strand of yarn.
Muff: 20 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over basket rib pattern using two strands of yarn.

Size matters

Cap to fit "an average head".
Muff measures 9½ inches in width.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k1tbl/p1tbl: knit/purl 1 stitch through back loop.

k2togtbl/p2togtbl: knit/purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2019

Smock Pinafores

SmockTops75.jpg

Pretty and easy to make knitted pinafores, providing a practical alternative to full knitted dresses which may be too warm for most centrally heated homes in this era.

Instructions.

This is the plain bodice, striped skirt, design in two colours.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (L); work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in L
2nd row: Purl in L
3rd row: Using D: k2, * sl2, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Using D: p2, * sl2, p2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Knit in L
6th row: Purl in L
7th row: Knit in D
8th row: Purl in D
9th row: Using L: sl2, * k2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Using L: sl2, * p2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
11th row: Knit in D
12th row: Purl in D

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until back measures approximately 6½/8/9/10½ inches ending on the 11th pattern row.

Next row: Using D: purl 13/2/0/5 stitches; (p2tog, p0/1/1/1) 31/29/33/31 times; p2tog, purl 13/3/1/6
[58 / 64 / 68 / 74 sts]

Starting with a knit row, continue straight in stocking-stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 42/48/52/58 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 36/40/44/48 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 3/4/4/5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 22/24/26/28 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 10/11/12/13; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 11/12/13/14 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 7/8/9/10 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 3/4/4/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 12/14/16/18 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 12/14/16/18 stitches from the front, pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 up the right side; then knit 22/24/26/28 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
2/2/2/2 balls in the contrast colour

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

L: main shade (light)
D: contrast (dark)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


Instructions.

This is the pinafore with the patterned bodice design in three colours.

Note: When working colour pattern from the chart, strand yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
When changing twist yarns on the wrong side to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left
to right.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Break off colour D

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (M), and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7///11 inches ending with a knit row.

Next row: purl 4/10/10/7 stitches; (p2tog, p2/2/2/3) 20/18/20/18 times; p2tog, purl 4/10/10/7
[69 / 75 / 81 / 87 sts]

Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Note: Repeat the 6 pattern stitches 11/12/13/14 times across and last 3 stitches on knit rows and first 3 stitches on purl rows as indicated.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 47/53/59/65 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 43/47/51/55 stitches remain.
**

Work straight in pattern until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 27/29/31/33 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 12/13/14/15; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 13/14/15/16 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/9/10/11 stitches remain.
Work straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4/4/5/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 15/17/19/21 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin appropriate colour yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 15/17/19/21 stitches from the front decreasing 2 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 up the right side; then knit 27/29/31/33 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seams and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
1 balls in of the two the contrast colours.
Editors note: Colour names to conjure with:
Aqua Gem, Gay Turquoise, Blue Slate and Wild Rose....

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

M: main (aqua)
L: light (pink)
D: dark (blue)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

October 2019

Dr Watson's Lopi Sweater

Lopi2019.jpg

I have always loved Lopi sweaters (whatever the era) and I thought the one worn by Martin Freeman in Sherlock (2011 - was it that long ago?!) was especially good. I love the navy base and the Christmassy air about it. For all I know, in the context of the show, it may have been meant as a joke Christmas jumper - but I love it despite many Sherlock fans labelling as ugly (ugly?!).
As you can see this pattern I have provided here, as made popular in the 70s and 80s, goes with the muted natural tones of the era, so you would need to change the colours to your own choice - mine being navy white and red, of course. You can, however, see in the picture what a difference the colour scheme makes; both his and hers sweaters are knitted to the same pattern, and yet with a change to the main shade and order of contrasts it looks like quite a different pattern.

Instructions.

Note: When working colour pattern from chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across wrong side of work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep fabric elastic.
Read all rounds knit from right to left.

Back and Front (alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 75 [79, 83, 87, 91, 95] stitches, and work in K1/P1 rib for 4 inches (10cm), right-side rows having K1 at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10], m1, (rib 15 [16, 17, 17, 18, 19, m1) 4 times, rib to end.
{80 [84, 88, 92, 96, 100] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 15½ (15½, 15, 14½, 15, 14½] inches, (39 [39, 38, 37, 38, 37] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until
64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves (two alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 33 [35, 37, 39, 39, 41] stitches, and work in rib as on Back for 4 inches (10cm), and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 2 [3, 4, 2, 2, 3], m1, (rib 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6, m1) 6 times, rib to end.
{40 [42, 44, 46, 46, 48] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [3rd, 5th, 3rd, 7th, 7th) row.

Continue in stocking stitch in main colour only on 6mm needles and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 8th [8th, 9th, 9th, 9th, 8th] row until there are 58 [60, 60, 64, 64, 68] stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] inches, (44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm), ending with a P row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times.

1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th sizes only: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row. Work 1 row.

All sizes: Leave remaining 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke and Neck Border

With right side facing, slip the first 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back on a spare needle with points at both ends.
With right side facing, using six 6½mm needles (or a 6½mm circular needle) and main shade, knit across the remaining 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes, then knit 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from left sleeve, 64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches from the front, 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from the right sleeve, and finally 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes as before; so you now have all the pieces joined in a circle with the beginning of the round at the centre back.
{216 [224, 224, 240, 248, 256] sts}.

If you are using 6 double pointed needles, then divide the stitches evenly on 5 needles. Mark the first stitch of the round with a coloured thread, then joining in and breaking off colours as required, work the 32 [32, 32, 36, 36, 36] rounds from Chart A [A, A, B, B, B], repeating the 8 pattern stitches 27 [28, 28, 30, 31 , 32] times across and decreasing where indicated.
{81 [84, 84, 90, 93, 96] sts}.

Chart A

Chart B

Break 1st and 2nd contrasts and continue in main shade only.

Shape Back as follows:
1st row: Knit 7 [8, 8, 9, 10 , 11], turn.
2nd row: Purl 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22] turn.
3rd row: Knit 21 [24, 24, 27, 30 , 33], turn.
4th row: Purl 28 [32, 32, 36, 40 , 44], turn.
5th row: Knit 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22].

Change to set of four (or circular) 5mm needles and decrease 1 stitch on the first round on 1st and 5th sizes only (to make them an even number of stitches).
Work in K1/P1 rib for 3 [3, 3, 4, 4 , 4] inches, (8 [8, 8, 10, 10 , 10] cm). Then, using a 6mm needle, cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing press lightly following any instructions on the ball band.

When making up a chunky garment it is easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing. If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 76cm lengths and a large needle, making sure the yarn keeps its original twist by turning the needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join armhole, side and sleeve seams. Press seams.
Fold the neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Materials

Chunky knitting yarn:
13 [14, 15, 16, 17, 18] 50g balls in main shade.

2 balls in each of 2 contrast colours for all sizes.

Pair each 5mm, 6mm, and 6½mm needles.
Set of four 5mm and 6½mm needles, plus
two spare 6½mm needles with points at both ends.
Editors note: Or use 6½mm circular needles, although you may need to transfer to a set dpns if circulars become too difficult to manage as the yoke decreases in size.

Tension

15sts and 20 rows to four inches on 6mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 [42, 44, 46, 48, 50] inches; (102 [107, 112, 117.122, 127] cm).
Actual size: 42 [44, 46, 48, 50, 52] ins;
(107 [112, 117, 122, 127, 132] cm).
Length from top of shoulders:
25½ [26, 26, 26½, 27, 27] ins;
(65 [66, 66, 67, 69, 69] cm).
Sleeve seam:
17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] ins;
(44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

DrWatson.jpg

Note that Dr Watson has patterning just above the welts on the body and the sleeve.
If you want to knit the actual original, it is Alafoss 52 - again looking quite different in the natural tones associated with Icelandic sweaters.

Alafoss52.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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