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January 2020

Traditional Arans

TraditionalArans.jpg

A set of conventional Aran sweaters in a good range of sizes.
Patterns include, twisted cables, lobster claw, diamonds, blackberry or trinity stitch, and double moss stitch.

Instructions

Back:


Using size 10 needles, cast on 70 (74, 80, 84, 88, 94, 102, 106, 112) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 10, 14, 3, 2) * work twice into next stitch, rib 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4); repeat from * to last 4 (6, 6, 7, 9, 9, 13, 3, 2)stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 3 (5, 5, 6, 8, 8, 12, 2, 1).
[ 92 (96, 104, 108, 112, 120, 128, 132, 140) sts]

Change to size 7 needles and pattern.
1st row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p1, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p6, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p1, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

2nd row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

3rd row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p2, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, *p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

4th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

5th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p3, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p3, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

6th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

7th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p4, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

8th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k5, sl2b, p2, p2 from cable needle, k5, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

9th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

10th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

11th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p3, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p3, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

12th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

13th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

14th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

15th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p1, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p6, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

16th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k1, p2, k8, p2, k1, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (13, 14, 14½, 15, 15, 15½, 15½, 16) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 80 (84, 86, 90, 92, 94, 96, 100, 104) stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 7½ (, 8, , , , 9, , ) inches from commencement of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Follow instructions as for the Back, from to .

Continue without further shaping until work measures 5 (, , , 6, , 6½, , 7) inches from commencement of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on a spare needle.

Shape Neck:
Next row: Pattern 32 (34, 34, 36, 37, 37, 38, 39, 41) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 10) rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as Back to shoulder, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches.

Slip the centre 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22) stitches on to a spare needle.
Join in yarn at neck edge to remaining stitches, and pattern to end. Complete to match first side of neck.

Sleeves:

Using size 10 needles, cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 2 (5, 8, 5, 3, 7, 5, 2, 7) * work twice into next stitch, rib 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 2, 3, 3, 3); repeat from * to last 2 (5, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 2, 7) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 1 (4, 7, 3, 2, 5, 4, 1, 6).
[ 62 (62, 62, 62, 62, 66, 66, 70, 70) sts]

Change to size 7 needles and pattern.

1st row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p1, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p6, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p1, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

2nd row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

3rd row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p2, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

4th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

5th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p3, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p3, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

6th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

7th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p4, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

8th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k5, sl2b, p2, p2 from cable needle, k5, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

9th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

10th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

11th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p3, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p3, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

12th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

13th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

14th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

15th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p1, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p6, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

16th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k1, p2, k8, p2, k1, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

These 16 rows form the pattern.

Increase, and work into the double moss, 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (9th, 7th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 5th, 6th, 5th) row until there are 72 (74, 78, 80, 84, 88, 92, 94, 98) stitches on the needle.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 15 (16, 16½, 17, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 52, 50, 50, 52) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30) stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Using a back stitch, join right shoulder seam.

With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, pick up and knit 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 23) stitches down side of neck, knit across the 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22) stitches at centre, pick up and knit 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 23) stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on back neck.
[90 (90, 94, 98, 98, 102, 102, 106, 110) sts]

Work in k1, p1, rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and press lightly with a warm iron over a damp cloth, omitting ribbing.

[Editor's Note: Avoid over-pressing the pattern stitches as this will flatten out cables or other textured stitches - in fact spraying the work with water, pinning out to shape (ie blocking), and leaving to dry naturally can work better than pressing.]

Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Set in Sleeves.
Fold neckband in half on to wrong side and slip stitch down.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) x 50g balls.

Pair each No 7 (4½mm) and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

19sts to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Actual chest measurement: 28½ (30½, 33½, 35, 37, 40½, 43½, 45½, 48½) ins
Length: 20¾ (22, 2, 24, 24¾, 25, 25¾, 26, 26¾) ins
Sleeve seam, 15 (16, 16½, 17, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 1) inches

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
sl2f: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work.
sl1b: slip next stitch on to cable needle and leave at back of work.
sl2b: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at back of work.
C4B: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at back
of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
C4F: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a branded Aran Bainin (which from Gaelic indicates an undyed white yarn). So substitute any Aran weight yarn.

The tension here indicates a lighter weight Aran - almost veering towards the American worsted weight. So as always - check your tension, and, as usual, you'll have to guess the quantity allowing for the fact that it's a pure wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2019

Skating Set

SkatingSet.jpg

Charming offering from the mid-fifties - the era of the "set".
I'm not sure how much of a commonplace activity skating was or is. I guess the climate in the south of the UK and the constant dangers warned of in skating on lakes and ponds meant that in my youth at least it was not a general pursuit outside of ice rinks. I was very keen on roller skating - another 1950s and 60s popular sport - I even owned my own roller skates etc; however the only times I ever tried skating on ice, was at a rink with hired skates.
In the celluloid world, however, any wintry film would not have been complete without its skating scene, and this would have made the perfect accessory. Luckily you could also consider using it without the skating - though it does rather draw to mind US costume dramas.

Instructions

Note: Muff and all white borders are worked using yarn doubled.

Muff

Pocket lining:
Using two strands of white yarn, cast on 31 stitches and work 5 inches straight in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Main Part:
Using two strands of red wool, cast on 49 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1, * k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1tbl, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row: k1, * p1, k1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
6th row: k1, * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
7th and 8th rows: As 5th and 6th.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until work measures 3 inches.
Make pocket opening as follows:

Next row: Pattern 9, cast off 31, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 9, cast on 31, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 14 inches from start.
Cast off.

Borders:
Using two strands of white wool, cast on 11 stitches and
work as follows:
1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 4 times k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 13 inches.
Cast off in rib.
Make another piece the same.

Making up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Cut a piece of lining material to correspond with main part.

Join short sides of muff; insert pocket, joining top to 31 cast-off stitches, then catch down pocket neatly all round.
Sew zip into opening.
Join end of borders and sew in position (stretching slightly) at each end on top of main part.

Turn muff inside out. Wrap 2 layers of wadding round muff and join ends. Join short sides of lining material. Slip lining over wadding and hem neatly to main work just inside ends of muff.
Turn right side out; brush up white borders to look like fur using a wire brush.
[Editors note: Given the choice of yarns available today, you might consider using a textured or furry yarn for the white borders - either a DK equivalent that you use double or a thicker yarn that knits to the right tension.

I seem to remember from my youth that muffs generally had a string attached to hang them round your neck so that you could have both hands free if necessary. I'm not sure if this was just because I was a child and was the equivalent to having your gloves on a string (threaded through your coat sleeves!), but it certainly would make it more practical if you planned to use it for more than skating expeditions.]

Cap

Using single strand of red wool, cast on 108 stitches and work 4½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Change to twisted rib and shape crown as follows:

1st row: * p1, k1 through back of loop; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p1tbl, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: (rib 16 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
4th row:
Work in twisted rib as above.
5th row:
(rib 15 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
6th row:
Work in twisted rib as above.
7th row: (rib 14 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.

Continue in twisted rib decreasing 6 stitches in the same way on every
alternate row until 36 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [18 sts]
Next row:
Purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [9 sts]
Next row:
Purl.

Break wool, draw through remaining stitches and fasten off.

Border:
Using two strands of white wool, make a border worked exactly as given for muff 17½ inches in length when slightly stretched.

Making up

Press lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join seam.
Fold under 2¼ inches of ribbing all round brim to wrong side and slip-hem in place.
Sew border all round hat on top of hem and brush up with a wire
brush as for muff.
Using white wool make a pom-pom and sew to top of hat.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 8 oz in Scarlet and 4 oz in white.

One pair of No 7 (4½mm) needles.

6-inch zip fastener.

White fabric to line muff, and 2 pieces of wadding for padding.

Tension

Cap: 24 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over twisted rib pattern using single strand of yarn.
Muff: 20 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over basket rib pattern using two strands of yarn.

Size matters

Cap to fit "an average head".
Muff measures 9½ inches in width.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k1tbl/p1tbl: knit/purl 1 stitch through back loop.

k2togtbl/p2togtbl: knit/purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2019

Smock Pinafores

SmockTops75.jpg

Pretty and easy to make knitted pinafores, providing a practical alternative to full knitted dresses which may be too warm for most centrally heated homes in this era.

Instructions.

This is the plain bodice, striped skirt, design in two colours.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (L); work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in L
2nd row: Purl in L
3rd row: Using D: k2, * sl2, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Using D: p2, * sl2, p2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Knit in L
6th row: Purl in L
7th row: Knit in D
8th row: Purl in D
9th row: Using L: sl2, * k2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Using L: sl2, * p2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
11th row: Knit in D
12th row: Purl in D

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until back measures approximately 6½/8/9/10½ inches ending on the 11th pattern row.

Next row: Using D: purl 13/2/0/5 stitches; (p2tog, p0/1/1/1) 31/29/33/31 times; p2tog, purl 13/3/1/6
[58 / 64 / 68 / 74 sts]

Starting with a knit row, continue straight in stocking-stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 42/48/52/58 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 36/40/44/48 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 3/4/4/5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 22/24/26/28 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 10/11/12/13; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 11/12/13/14 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 7/8/9/10 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 3/4/4/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 12/14/16/18 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 12/14/16/18 stitches from the front, pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 up the right side; then knit 22/24/26/28 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
2/2/2/2 balls in the contrast colour

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

L: main shade (light)
D: contrast (dark)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


Instructions.

This is the pinafore with the patterned bodice design in three colours.

Note: When working colour pattern from the chart, strand yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
When changing twist yarns on the wrong side to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left
to right.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Break off colour D

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (M), and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7///11 inches ending with a knit row.

Next row: purl 4/10/10/7 stitches; (p2tog, p2/2/2/3) 20/18/20/18 times; p2tog, purl 4/10/10/7
[69 / 75 / 81 / 87 sts]

Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Note: Repeat the 6 pattern stitches 11/12/13/14 times across and last 3 stitches on knit rows and first 3 stitches on purl rows as indicated.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 47/53/59/65 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 43/47/51/55 stitches remain.
**

Work straight in pattern until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 27/29/31/33 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 12/13/14/15; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 13/14/15/16 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/9/10/11 stitches remain.
Work straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4/4/5/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 15/17/19/21 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin appropriate colour yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 15/17/19/21 stitches from the front decreasing 2 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 up the right side; then knit 27/29/31/33 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seams and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
1 balls in of the two the contrast colours.
Editors note: Colour names to conjure with:
Aqua Gem, Gay Turquoise, Blue Slate and Wild Rose....

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

M: main (aqua)
L: light (pink)
D: dark (blue)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

© Christina Coutts 2007

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