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August 2019

Colour-wise fashion

MustardYellowSweater.jpg

I love the styling of this photo - the poise of the model, the "clashing" colour combination, the bracelet, and the lovely use of the location which makes the very best of the look of fresh summer rain.

This is a fairly simple pattern where the vertical contrast stripes are made by stranding the unused colour across the back (as opposed to intarsia) and this makes for a slightly more interesting 3D effect, even though they compensate by changing needles and stitch count over the different sections.
Not everyone likes mustard (or yellow...) but I think this sweater looks quite sophisticated as the colours are close on the colour wheel but not really matching. I have a sweater in pink with orange trim which gives a similar effect (less violent than it might sound!). Bear in mind also that mustard can be a difficult shade to pin down - so it could be gold or beige - just make sure it tones perfectly with your pencil skirt....

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.
Y = Sunglint Yellow and M = French Mustard

Back and Front alike

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 100 (106) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 1¼ inches, increasing 14 (16) stitches on the last row by working twice into every 7th (6th) stitch 14 (16) times: [114 (122) sts]

‡‡
Change to No 7 needles and work 36 rows vertical stripes, stranding wool loosely the slipped stitches, thus:

1st row: Using Mustard yarn (M), * k2, keeping wool at back of work, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
2nd row: Using M, * p2, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
3rd row: Using Yellow yarn (Y), * keeping wool at back slip 2 purlways, k2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: Using Y, * slip 2 purlways, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.

Repeat the last 4 rows 8 times more.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking stitch in yarn Y, thus:

Next row: * k 7 (8), k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches; k6 (2): [102 (110) sts]

Work 13 rows straight in stocking stitch.

Join in yarn M, and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.
‡‡

Work 13 rows in yarn Y.

Next row: * p7 (8), purl twice into next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches, p6 (2): [114 (122) sts]

Repeat from ‡‡ to ‡‡

Continue in yarn Y and shape armholes by casting off 5 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 knit rows: [80 (86) sts]

Next row: * p 6 (9), purl twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, p 10 (6): [90 (94) sts]

Change to No 7 needles, join in M and work the 36 rows of vertical stripes.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles.

Next row: * k6 (9), k2tog; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, k10 (6): [80 (86) sts]
Work 13 rows stocking-stitch in yarn Y.

Join in M and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.

Shape shoulders: by casting off 6 (7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Work a further 6 rows on the remaining stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely.

Back and Front alike

Make a second piece for the front exactly as instructions above.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and yarn Y, cast on 48 (50) stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row until there are 70 (72) stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (16½) inches.
With right side facing, shape top, by casting off 4 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 (32) stitches remain.
Purl back, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 (14) stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join shaped ends of neck facing.
Turn under 6 rows stocking-stitch across the back of the neck and 6 rows across the front, but graduating hem to a depth of 12
rows at centre front; catch down lightly on wrong side.
Press all seams and neck facing lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn: 13 (14) oz in Sunglint yellow, and 4 (4)oz French Mustard

Pair each No 7 (2¾mm), No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

22 sts x 28 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 23 (23) inches;
sleeve seam: 23 (23) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Totem Double Crepe which was a pure wool standard double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MustardYellowSweater2.jpg

July 2019

Sun Set

SunSet1.jpg

The era of the "set" — a sweet and quirky twin set for you to enjoy while soaking up the sun.
[I would, but I have a serious case of teeny tiny waist envy].

Instructions

This is a two-piece: a bolero with pointed edge, and a sleeveless top with back and front V-neck.

Bolero Back

Begin at the back of the neck.
With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 36 stitches fairly loosely, and work 1 row in k2, p2 rib.

With right side facing, continue in rib, casting on 18 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 stitches at the beginning of the
following 10 rows for shoulders. [132 sts].
Work straight in rib for 7½ inches from the end of the shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape for armholes by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, then cast on 8 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, taking the extra stitches into the
rib as they are made. [156 sts].
Work 10 rows straight.

** Here divide for points:

Next row (right side facing): rib 78, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Continue to work backwards and forwards on these 78 stitches using
three needles thus: rib 39 stitches on to 1st needle; with 2nd needle sl1, k1, psso, rib to end; * with spare needle, rib to last stitch of next needle, purl this stitch; with spare needle sl1, k1, psso, rib to end.
Repeat from * until all stitches are gone. Fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 78 stitches and
work to correspond with first half. **

Bolero Fronts

Left bolero front: Begin at the shoulder.
With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 18 stitches and work row in k2, p2 rib.

With wrong side facing, continue in rib, casting on 6 stitches at the
beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows. [48 sts].
This completes shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, continue in rib and shape front edge by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row (front edge) then on every following 4th row, 18 times in all, taking the extra stitches into rib as they are made; afterwards keep the front edge straight. When the armhole (straight edge) measures 7½ inches from the end of the shoulder shaping, with wrong side facing, increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, then cast on 8 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row. [78 sts].
Work 10 rows straight.

With right side facing, shape as for back by working from to .

Right bolero front: Work as for left, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (two alike)

With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 116 stitches and work
3½ inches in k2, p2 rib.

Continue in rib, shaping the top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 66 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 32 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Sun Top (back and front alike)

With two No 13 (2¼mm) needles, cast on 126 stitches and work
4 inches in k2, p2 rib.
Change to two No 12 (2¾mm) needles and continue in rib, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 4th row until there are 156 stitches. Work straight until piece measures 11¾ inches from the start.

Here divide for points exactly as given for back of by working from ** to ** .

Making up

Press parts only very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder and sleeve seams of bolero and side seams of sun top.
With crochet hook and white wool, work edging all round points of sun top; all round points, up fronts and round back of neck on bolero
thus:-
Join wool to edge of knitting, 6 chain, * miss 2 stitches of knitting, 1 treble in next stitch, 3 chain; repeat from * ending 1 treble in last stitch of knitting; fasten off.

Cords: Take 6 strands of Viridian each 60 inches long and twist tightly together; then fold in half allowing two halves to twine round each other to form a cord; thread through holes in crochet edging on inside edges of points of sun-top; make a similar cord for back inside edges, then two more in red for outer edges of points.
Knot ends together on shoulders. In the same way make a red cord to go round front points and all round back of neck of
bolero, then make one in viridian to go round points of
back.
Secure ends on wrong side at underarms.
Join crochet edgings together from underarm for inches to form side seams of bolero. Insert sleeves. Turn back cuffs and press lightly in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

3ply fingering:-
Bolero: 5oz in white and small amounts in Viridian (blue-green) and Lipstick Red.
Sun Top: 4oz in white and small amounts in Viridian and Lipstick Red.

A set of 4 No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
One pair of No 13 (2¼mm) needles.
One No 13 crochet hook.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of
34sts x 42 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

One size only to fit 34-35 inch chest;
length from top of shoulders to point on bolero: 17 ins;
from top of point to lower edge on sun top: 18½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2 ins (cuff turned back).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SunSet2.jpg

June 2019

Three-ounce top I

3ozHighNeck.jpg

Very pretty lacy tops with the emphasis on wool economy.
The style of this pattern in conjunction with the price (3d), the emphasis on economy, and its pattern sequence number is giving me mixed messages as to the date; however general opinion seems to be that these patterns are from the late 1940s.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.
Note that the two different sizes are achieved by using different needles sizes as well as different numbers of stitches.

Front

With No 13 (12) needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 18 times, then repeat the 1st row again.
40th row: p2tog, purl to end.

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows 7 times more. (80 rows).

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [98 sts]

7th row: As 7th pattern row.
Work the next 3 rows as 8th. 9th and 10th pattern rows to complete one pattern.
Work 4 more complete patterns of 10 rows each.

Shape Neck:
51st row: Work 38 stitches as 1st pattern row, ending k4, wo, k1.

Cast off 22 stitches, (1 stitch on the right-hand needle), pattern 37 stitches.
Work on this 2nd set of 38 stitches for right shoulder.

52nd row: purl 38 stitches.
53rd row: cast off 3 stitches, work in pattern to end.
54th row: purl 35 stitches.
55th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
56th row: purl 33 stitches.
57th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
58th row: purl 31 stitches.
59th row: k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Keeping the pattern correct, work 10 rows on 30 stitches.

70th row: cast off 10 stitches; purl to end.
71st row: Work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: cast off 10 stitches, purl to end.
73rd row: As 71st row.
Cast off.

Left shoulder:
Join wool to neck edge of the remaining 38 stitches, and work to match the right shoulder.

Back

Work to match the front until 5 complete patterns have been worked from the beginning of the armhole shaping.

Divide for Back Opening:

51st row: work 49 stitches in pattern. Turn.
52nd row: increase into 1st stitch; purl to end.
Continue in pattern on these 50 stitches until 2 patterns are completed.

Shape Shoulder:
71st row: cast off 10 stitches, then work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Left Shoulder:
Cast on 3 stitches and join to centre back.
Work to match right shoulder, keeping the 3 extra stitches for underflap in garter stitch, and casting off 22 stitches for neck.

Sleeves:

With No. 13, (12) needles. cast on 87 stitches.
1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
Work in this rib for 8 more rows.

10th row: p3, * increase into next stitch, p8; repeat from to last 4 stitches, increase into next stitch, p3. [98 sts]

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern.
Work 3, (2) complete patterns.
If sleeve is wanted longer for larger size, then work a further complete pattern.

Shape Top:
Cast off 5 stitches twice, and then 4 stitches twice at the beginning of the next 4 rows, [80 sts]
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 44 stitches remain.
Purl one row (40 rows from the beginning of the shaping).
Now cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. (32 stitches remain).
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 20 stitches.

Neck Band

Back-stitch shoulder seams very neatly.
With No 13 (12) needles and right side of work facing, pick up and
knit 120 stitches evenly round neck.
Work in rib of k3, p3, for 9 rows.
Cast off in rib, using a No 11 (10) needle.

Making Up

Seam-stitch side and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves and back-stitch.
Catch down underflap.
Work a row of chain stitch down right side of back opening. turn and
make 4 buttonholes in chain stitch.

Make 4 buttons follows:
Make 8 chain and join in a circle. Work 6 dc into this circle. Work a second round of 6 dc then a round of 4 dc. Break off thread and pull through loop to secure. Stuff with a very small quantity of cotton wool and draw up tight.
Sew on buttons to match.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 (4) ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 13 or (2¼mm), and No 11 (3mm) needles for smaller size.

Pairs of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles for larger size.

A medium crochet hook.

Tension

7½ (7) sts x 10½ (10) rows to 1 inch on No 11 (10) needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34 (36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19) inches; side seam 12 (13) inches; sleeve seam 3½ (4) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

dc: double crochet (that is English double crochet or US single crochet).

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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