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January 2021

Fuller figure twinset

FullerFigureTwinset.jpg

"Fuller figure" shown off on a suitably matronly figure for the post-rationing 1950s - but actually means a pleasing pattern in a reasonable size range for this century.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 6 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Jumper Back


With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 116 (122 : 128 : 132 : 138 : 148) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1, p1, rib, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5, repeat from * to last 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8) stitches, work twice into next the stitch, rib 3 (6 : 9 : 5 : 8 : 7).
[135 (141 : 147 : 153 : 159 : 171) sts]

Change to size 8 (4mm) needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p3, * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows once, then the 1st row once.

6th row: * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch.
7th row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice.
12th row: As 2nd row.
These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 59 (65 : 71 : 75 : 81 : 91) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches remain.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder

Jumper Front

Follow the instructions for the Back from to until 69 (73 : 77 : 79 : 83 : 93) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:

1st size only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 24 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 13 stitches remain.

Keeping the neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes only
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (25 : 26 : 27 : - : -) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until - (17 : 21 : 25 : - : -) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 13 stitches remain. Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

5th and 6th sizes only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (- : - : - : 28 : 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until - (- : - : - : 13 : 16) stitches remain. Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

All sizes:
Slip the centre 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches onto a spare needle. Join in wool at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Short Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 80 (86 : 86 : 92 : 92 : 98) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for ¾ of an inch, ending with a wrong side row and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and work in pattern as given for the Back until the work measures 3 (3 : : : : ) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 57 (67 : 65 : 71 : 69 : 73) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 9 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open.
With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, knit across the 9 stitches at the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches at the centre front; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 9 stitches on the top of the Right Sleeve, and knit the 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches from the back neck.
[108 (112 : 116 : 116 : 120 : 126) sts]

Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cardigan Back

Follow the instructions exactly as for the Jumper, but on completion cast off the stitches at the back neck.

Cardigan Left Front

Using size 10 needles, cast on 60 (60 : 66 : 66 : 70 : 76) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 6 : 6 : 5 : 5), repeat from * to last 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 4 : 4 : 4 : 7).
[ 69 (69 : 75 : 75 : 81 : 87) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and pattern as given for Back until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches, from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armhole and Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th (5th : 4th : 5th : 4th : 4th) row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until 13 (17 : 19 : 22 : 24 : 29) stitches remain.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sizes only:
Still decreasing at the neck edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until - (8 : 9 : 7 : 9 : 9) stitches remain.

All sizes:
Keeping neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

Cardigan Right Front

Follow the instructions exactly as for Left Front, reversing all shapings.

Cardigan Long Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 58 (60 : 60 : 62 : 62 : 64) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 4 (5 : 5 : 3 : 3 : 4), repeat from * to last 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7) stitches, work twice into the next stitch, rib 3 (5 : 5 : 6 : 6 : 6).
[ 69 (69 : 69 : 75 : 75 : 75) sts].

Change to size 8 needles and pattern.
Increase, and work into the pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 16th (10th : 10th : 11th : 11th : 8th) row until there are 81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Follow instructions for Sleeves of Jumper from to .
Cast off.

Cardigan Front Bands

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for ½ (½ : ½ : ¾ : ¾ : ½) of an inch.
1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib, casting on 3 stitches over the cast off stitches in the previous row.
Work 4 more buttonholes at intervals of 2½ ( : : : : ) inches, measured from base of previous buttonhole.
Continue in rib until Band is long enough, slightly stretched, to fit up Right Front, across sleeve tops, back neck and down Left Front.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Jumper
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Sew zip into left back raglan seam, then join remainder of seam.

Cardigan
Using a back stitch, join raglan, side and sleeve seams.
Sew on Front Band. Neaten buttonholes and sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting
Jumper:
18 (19 : 20 : 21 : 23 : 25) x 25g balls
Cardigan:
24 (26 : 27 : 29 : 30 : 32) x 25g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles

4 inch (10 cm) zip fastener for back neck of jumper

5 buttons for cardigan

Tension

26 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern

Size matters

To fit chest 40 (42 : 44 : 46 : 48 : 50) inches - actual measurements are 1½-2 inches larger;
length from top of shoulders: 22 (22¼ : 23 : 23¼ : 24 : 24½) inches;
short sleeve seam:
3 (3 : : : : ) inches;
long sleeve seam:
16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn Emu Superwash Double Knitting. This is a standard pure wool double knitting which was also available in 50g balls measuring 130 yards (119 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2020

Doll Clothes

DollHatCoat.jpg

A sweet little old-fashioned set for a dolly.

Instructions.

Outfit includes coat and beret in double knitting wool; dress in 3 ply; and vest, pants and socks in 3 ply.

Coat - back

Cast on 48 stitches work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: purl (this marks the hem- line).

Continue in stocking stitch beginning with a purl row, and decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row until 38 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 5½ inches from hemline.

Raglan Shaping: Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 16 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Coat - right front

Cast on 28 stitches. Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: purl (this marks the hem- line).
Next Row: p26, k2.
Next Row: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows throughout, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the 4th row and every following 6th row until 23 stitches remain, at the same time, when work measures 2 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row at the bordered edge, work buttonhole as follows:

Next Row: k2, cast off 2, knit to end.
Next Row: purl to the last 2 stitches, cast on 2, k2.

Make 2 more buttonholes at the front edge, 1½ inches apart.
Work until front measures 5½ inches from hemline, ending with a knit row.

Raglan Shaping: Making 4th buttonhole 1½ inches from 3rd, cast off 2 stitches at beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning with of every alternate row until 16 stitches remain, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 6 stitches, knit to end.
Continue raglan shaping and decrease 1 stitch at neck edge on the next 4 rows. Continue raglan shaping only until 1 stitch remains. Fasten off.

Coat - left front

As right front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

Coat - sleeves

Cast on 26 stitches and knit 4 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the first row, until work measures 3 inches.
Shape top as you did for the back raglan until 6 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Coat - collar

Join raglan seams.
Pick up and knit 42 stitches around neck edge, omitting borders.
Knit 4 rows.
Cast off.

Coat - mock pockets

Cast on 10 stitches and knit 2 rows.
Cast Off.

Coat - making up

Press work.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn up hem and catch-stitch on wrong side.
Sew on pockets, 4 ins. from lower edge.
Sew on 4 buttons.

Beret

Cast on 68 stitches and knit 4 rows.

Next Row: (k3, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row.
Next Row: (k4, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Work 6 rows stocking stitch.
Next Row: (p33, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Next Row: (k13, k2tog), repeat to end.
Next Row and every alternate row: purl.
Next Row: (k12, k2tog) repeat to end.
Continue to decrease in this way on every alternate row until 28 stitches remain.
Next Row: (k2tog), repeat to end.

Beret - making up

Thread wool through remaining stitches and secure.
Press work.
Join back seam.
Sew button to centre top.

DollDress3.jpg

Dress - back

Cast on 49 stitches and work 6 rows in moss stitch.
Work 6 rows stocking stitch, 2 rows moss stitch
These 8 rows form the pattern.
Repeat the pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 6th row until 39 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 5½ ins.

Sleeve Shaping. Cast on 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then continue until work measures 8 ins.
Cast off.

Dress - right front

Cast on 27 stitches.
Work 4 rows moss stitch.
Next Row: Pattern 2, wfd, k2tog, pattern to end.
Next Row: Moss stitch.
Continue in pattern as for back, but working 5 stitches at front edge in moss stitch for front border, and working a buttonhole as before on the 1st row of each moss stitch stripe.
At the same time, when 8 rows of pattern have been worked, decrease 1 stitch at the side edge on the next and every following 6th row until 22 stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 5½ inches, ending at side edge.

Sleeve Shaping.
Cast on 9 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Continue until work measures 7 inches, ending at front edge.

Neck Shaping.
Next Row: Moss stitch 5, and slip these 5 stitches on to a safety pin, cast off 4 stitches, pattern to end.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
Pattern 2 rows.
Cast off.

Dress - left front

As right front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

Dress - neckband

Join shoulder seams.
Slip border stitches from safety pin on to a needle, pick up and knit 39 stitches around neck, pattern 5 border stitches from other safety pin.
Work 4 rows moss stitch, making 10th buttonhole on the 2nd row.
Cast off.

Dress - sleeve border

Pick up and k. 33 stitches along sleeve edge.
Work 3 rows moss stitch.
Cast off.

Dress - making up

Press work.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Sew on buttons.

Vest - back and front alike

With No 10 needles cast on 36 stitches.
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib.

Armhole Shaping.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Pattern 3 rows

Neck Shaping.
Next Row: Rib 6, cast off 14 stitches, pattern to end.
Work 12 rows.
Cast off.
Complete Other side to match.

Vest - making up

Join side and shoulder seams.
With crochet hook join wool to neck edge:
(3 chain, miss ¼ inch, 1dc in edge) all around neck.
Fasten off.

Pants - back and front alike

With No 10 needles cast on 34 stitches and knit 2 rows.
Next Row: (k2, wfd, k2tog); repeat to last 2 stitches, k2.
Knit 2 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 3 inches.

Leg Shaping.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Work 3 rows straight.
Cast Off.

Pants - making up

Press work.
Join crotch and side seams.
Thread elastic through holes at waist and secure.
With crochet hook work border as for neck of vest around leg openings.

Socks

With No 11 needles, cast on 28 stitches

1st row: increase in first stitch, k12, (increase in next stitch) twice, k12, increase in last stitch.
2nd and alternate rows: purl.
3rd row: increase, k14, (increase in next stitch) twice, k14, increase.
5th row: increase, k16, (increase in next stitch) twice, k16, increase.
7th row: increase, k18, (increase in next stitch) twice, k18, increase.
8th row: purl.
Next row: k26, k2tog, turn.
Next row: p9, p2tog, turn.
Next row: k9, k2tog , turn.
Continue decrease 1 stitch each side of centre stitches until 36 stitches remain altogether.
Work 2 inches in stocking stitch over all stitches.
Work 6 rows k2, p2, rib.
Cast off ribwise.

Socks - making up

Press work.
Join back and foot seam.

Materials

Coat and Beret: 3ozs Double Knitting
5 buttons
No 9 (3¾mm) knitting needles

Dress: 1oz 3 ply
10 buttons
No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles

Vest, Pants and Socks: 2ozs 3 ply
12 inches of elastic
No 10 (3¼mm) and No 11 (3mm) knitting needles
No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.
[This would be the DK yarn tension]

Size matters

Designed to fit a 20-inch doll.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc:
double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US this stitch is referred to as single crochet.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together
p2tog:
purl 2 sts together
moss stitch:
repeat k1, p1 on an odd number of stitches so that a previous row's knit stitch is purled and vice versa. (Also known as seed stitch).
wfd: wool forward to making an extra stitch by passing the yarn over the needle when you knit the following stitch. [This also creates an eyelet hole which can be for for decoration or a small buttonhole]

A Word on the Wool.

The pattern is sized for a 20 inch doll which may suit "Our Generation", "American Girl" or vintage Pedigree dolls.

3 ply yarn can be easily found as baby wool in white which would be fine for the vest/pants/socks but for the dress you may be challenged to find more interesting colours.

1 ounce (oz) is approximately 28g.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2020

Nordic Slipover

NordicSlipover3.jpg

A cute seasonal sleeveless sweater.
Co-incidentally I see that Wardrobe Icons have featured "knitted vests" as an "unexpected hero" this week, having "fallen in love with how versatile it is as a layering piece". They illustrate it with 3 shapes including fair-isle patterns with a closer fit and plain with a relaxed fit.
You could replace the Nordic style pattern given here with any fair-isle pattern of your choosing, just repeating it across the width of the sweater, making sure to centre the pattern - for example the Shetland Folklore pattern which is worked over a 10 stitch repeat.
I have a "relaxed fit" example in polka dots, which could easily be knitted plain.

Instructions

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
Work from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 106 [114, 120, 128] stitches and work in K1/P1 for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 1 [5, 4, 4] * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 1 [5, 4, 4] stitches, m1, rib 1 [5, 4, 4].
(133 [141, 149, 159] sts).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work in pattern from the chart, joining in and breaking off colours as required, working the first 4 [1, 5, 3] and last 3 [0, 4, 2] stitches on knit rows, and the first 3 [0, 4, 2], and the last 4 [1, 5, 3] stitches on purl row as indicated, and working the 14 stitch repeat pattern 9 [10, 19, 11] times across in between.

Continue until back measures 14½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.

**

Shape Armholes:
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, then at each end of every alternate row until 95 [99, 105, 109] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until back measures 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 9 [8, 10, 9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
(45 [47, 49, 51] sts).

Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back up to **.

Shape Armholes and Neck:

Next row: keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches, and pattern until 60 [64, 68, 73] stitches are on the right hand needle; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on first set of stitches only.
Work one row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, and then on every alternate row, at the same time, decrease 1 stitches at the neck edge on the next row, and every alternate row until 38 [39, 41, 42] stitches remain.

Then continue to decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every alternate row until 32 [34, 37, 39] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every following 3rd row until 25 [26, 28, 29] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until front matches back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
(9 [8, 10, 9] sts).

Work one row, and then cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 66 [70, 74, 79], and pattern to end.

Work to match the first side, reversing the shaping.

Making Up

Press lightly using a cool iron and dry cloth - or as instructed on the ball band - omitting the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches down left neck, knit stitch from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread), pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches up right neck, then knit 45 [47, 49, 51] stitches from Back, decreasing 3 stitches evenly.
(187 [197, 203, 213] sts).

1st row wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.

2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl, k1; ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Cast off evenly in rib, decreasing at marked stitch as before.
Join left shoulder and neckband.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 118 [124, 132, 138], stitches round each armhole.

Work in k1/p1 rib for 9 rows.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4 ply in each of the three colours (all sizes).

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 32 rows to 4 ins (10cm) measured over pattern using 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches;
length: 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

p2togtbl: purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Clansman 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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