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October 2019

Dr Watson's Lopi Sweater

Lopi2019.jpg

I have always loved Lopi sweaters (whatever the era) and I thought the one worn by Martin Freeman in Sherlock (2011 - was it that long ago?!) was especially good. I love the navy base and the Christmassy air about it. For all I know, in the context of the show, it may have been meant as a joke Christmas jumper - but I love it despite many Sherlock fans labelling as ugly (ugly?!).
As you can see this pattern I have provided here, as made popular in the 70s and 80s, goes with the muted natural tones of the era, so you would need to change the colours to your own choice - mine being navy white and red, of course. You can, however, see in the picture what a difference the colour scheme makes; both his and hers sweaters are knitted to the same pattern, and yet with a change to the main shade and order of contrasts it looks like quite a different pattern.

Instructions.

Note: When working colour pattern from chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across wrong side of work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep fabric elastic.
Read all rounds knit from right to left.

Back and Front (alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 75 [79, 83, 87, 91, 95] stitches, and work in K1/P1 rib for 4 inches (10cm), right-side rows having K1 at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10], m1, (rib 15 [16, 17, 17, 18, 19, m1) 4 times, rib to end.
{80 [84, 88, 92, 96, 100] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 15½ (15½, 15, 14½, 15, 14½] inches, (39 [39, 38, 37, 38, 37] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until
64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves (two alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 33 [35, 37, 39, 39, 41] stitches, and work in rib as on Back for 4 inches (10cm), and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 2 [3, 4, 2, 2, 3], m1, (rib 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6, m1) 6 times, rib to end.
{40 [42, 44, 46, 46, 48] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [3rd, 5th, 3rd, 7th, 7th) row.

Continue in stocking stitch in main colour only on 6mm needles and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 8th [8th, 9th, 9th, 9th, 8th] row until there are 58 [60, 60, 64, 64, 68] stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] inches, (44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm), ending with a P row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times.

1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th sizes only: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row. Work 1 row.

All sizes: Leave remaining 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke and Neck Border

With right side facing, slip the first 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back on a spare needle with points at both ends.
With right side facing, using six 6½mm needles (or a 6½mm circular needle) and main shade, knit across the remaining 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes, then knit 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from left sleeve, 64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches from the front, 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from the right sleeve, and finally 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes as before; so you now have all the pieces joined in a circle with the beginning of the round at the centre back.
{216 [224, 224, 240, 248, 256] sts}.

If you are using 6 double pointed needles, then divide the stitches evenly on 5 needles. Mark the first stitch of the round with a coloured thread, then joining in and breaking off colours as required, work the 32 [32, 32, 36, 36, 36] rounds from Chart A [A, A, B, B, B], repeating the 8 pattern stitches 27 [28, 28, 30, 31 , 32] times across and decreasing where indicated.
{81 [84, 84, 90, 93, 96] sts}.

Chart A

Chart B

Break 1st and 2nd contrasts and continue in main shade only.

Shape Back as follows:
1st row: Knit 7 [8, 8, 9, 10 , 11], turn.
2nd row: Purl 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22] turn.
3rd row: Knit 21 [24, 24, 27, 30 , 33], turn.
4th row: Purl 28 [32, 32, 36, 40 , 44], turn.
5th row: Knit 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22].

Change to set of four (or circular) 5mm needles and decrease 1 stitch on the first round on 1st and 5th sizes only (to make them an even number of stitches).
Work in K1/P1 rib for 3 [3, 3, 4, 4 , 4] inches, (8 [8, 8, 10, 10 , 10] cm). Then, using a 6mm needle, cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing press lightly following any instructions on the ball band.

When making up a chunky garment it is easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing. If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 76cm lengths and a large needle, making sure the yarn keeps its original twist by turning the needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join armhole, side and sleeve seams. Press seams.
Fold the neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Materials

Chunky knitting yarn:
13 [14, 15, 16, 17, 18] 50g balls in main shade.

2 balls in each of 2 contrast colours for all sizes.

Pair each 5mm, 6mm, and 6½mm needles.
Set of four 5mm and 6½mm needles, plus
two spare 6½mm needles with points at both ends.
Editors note: Or use 6½mm circular needles, although you may need to transfer to a set dpns if circulars become too difficult to manage as the yoke decreases in size.

Tension

15sts and 20 rows to four inches on 6mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 [42, 44, 46, 48, 50] inches; (102 [107, 112, 117.122, 127] cm).
Actual size: 42 [44, 46, 48, 50, 52] ins;
(107 [112, 117, 122, 127, 132] cm).
Length from top of shoulders:
25½ [26, 26, 26½, 27, 27] ins;
(65 [66, 66, 67, 69, 69] cm).
Sleeve seam:
17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] ins;
(44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

DrWatson.jpg

Note that Dr Watson has patterning just above the welts on the body and the sleeve.
If you want to knit the actual original, it is Alafoss 52 - again looking quite different in the natural tones associated with Icelandic sweaters.

Alafoss52.jpg

September 2019

Country Wear Pullover

CountrySlipover.jpg

Fair-Isle pullover or vest in bright colours, with the added interest in that it is knitted sideways.

Instructions:

The pullover is worked sideways using the Fair-Isle technique. Strand the wools not in use loosely across the back of the work.

Back

Begin at the left side edge. Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade natural yarn cast on 84 stitches.
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across.

When the 10th row of the chart has been completed, continue in pattern, working armhole increasings as shown on the chart, and keeping the extra stitches in pattern as indicated.
At the beginning of the 24th row, cast on 50 stitches to complete the armhole. [147 sts]

Continue in pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the shoulder edge at the end of the 29th, 37th, 45th, and 53rd rows as indicated. [151 sts]
Work straight until the 78th row of the chart has been completed.
This brings you to the centre back.

For the second half of the back, work down from top of chart, that is: 77th, 76th, 75th, 74th rows, etc, still reading from right to left on knit rows and left to right on purl rows.
Remember on this half of the back to decrease 1 stitch at the shoulder edge on the 53rd, 45th, 37th and 29th rows, and to cast off 50 stitches at the beginning of the 24th row for the armhole, then to decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 84 stitches remain.

Work straight to the end of the chart, then purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Front

Begin at the right side and work exactly as for the first half of the back until the 57th row has been completed. [151 sts].

Divide for neck opening:
58th row: Cast off 15, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 9 purl rows as indicated on the chart. [91 sts]
Work 2 rows straight to the end of the 78th row of the chart.

For the second half of the front, work down from the top of the chart as before, casting on stitches at the neck edge to correspond with those cast off on the first half, and decreasing at the shoulder and armhole edges as indicated.

When the chart is complete, purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Ribbed welt

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 140 stitches along the lower edge of the back.
Work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib: cast off in rib.

Work the front welt in the same way.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, beginning at the centre back, pick up and knit 88 stitches to centre front.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the centre front on alternate rows; cast off in rib.

Work the other half to correspond.

Armhole bands

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 160 stitches round each armhole.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts well under a damp cloth.
Join side seams.
Join neck ribbing at centre back and front.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 x 1oz balls of 4 ply fingering in main shade (natural), plus 1 oz each in 6 contrast colours: brown, yellow, blue, rust, emerald, white.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 39-41 inches.
Length: 23 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

For a pdf version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

August 2019

Colour-wise fashion

MustardYellowSweater.jpg

I love the styling of this photo - the poise of the model, the "clashing" colour combination, the bracelet, and the lovely use of the location which makes the very best of the look of fresh summer rain.

This is a fairly simple pattern where the vertical contrast stripes are made by stranding the unused colour across the back (as opposed to intarsia) and this makes for a slightly more interesting 3D effect, even though they compensate by changing needles and stitch count over the different sections.
Not everyone likes mustard (or yellow...) but I think this sweater looks quite sophisticated as the colours are close on the colour wheel but not really matching. I have a sweater in pink with orange trim which gives a similar effect (less violent than it might sound!). Bear in mind also that mustard can be a difficult shade to pin down - so it could be gold or beige - just make sure it tones perfectly with your pencil skirt....

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.
Y = Sunglint Yellow and M = French Mustard

Back and Front alike

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 100 (106) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 1¼ inches, increasing 14 (16) stitches on the last row by working twice into every 7th (6th) stitch 14 (16) times: [114 (122) sts]

‡‡
Change to No 7 needles and work 36 rows vertical stripes, stranding wool loosely the slipped stitches, thus:

1st row: Using Mustard yarn (M), * k2, keeping wool at back of work, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
2nd row: Using M, * p2, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
3rd row: Using Yellow yarn (Y), * keeping wool at back slip 2 purlways, k2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: Using Y, * slip 2 purlways, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.

Repeat the last 4 rows 8 times more.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking stitch in yarn Y, thus:

Next row: * k 7 (8), k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches; k6 (2): [102 (110) sts]

Work 13 rows straight in stocking stitch.

Join in yarn M, and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.
‡‡

Work 13 rows in yarn Y.

Next row: * p7 (8), purl twice into next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches, p6 (2): [114 (122) sts]

Repeat from ‡‡ to ‡‡

Continue in yarn Y and shape armholes by casting off 5 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 knit rows: [80 (86) sts]

Next row: * p 6 (9), purl twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, p 10 (6): [90 (94) sts]

Change to No 7 needles, join in M and work the 36 rows of vertical stripes.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles.

Next row: * k6 (9), k2tog; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, k10 (6): [80 (86) sts]
Work 13 rows stocking-stitch in yarn Y.

Join in M and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.

Shape shoulders: by casting off 6 (7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Work a further 6 rows on the remaining stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely.

Back and Front alike

Make a second piece for the front exactly as instructions above.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and yarn Y, cast on 48 (50) stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row until there are 70 (72) stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (16½) inches.
With right side facing, shape top, by casting off 4 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 (32) stitches remain.
Purl back, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 (14) stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join shaped ends of neck facing.
Turn under 6 rows stocking-stitch across the back of the neck and 6 rows across the front, but graduating hem to a depth of 12
rows at centre front; catch down lightly on wrong side.
Press all seams and neck facing lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn: 13 (14) oz in Sunglint yellow, and 4 (4)oz French Mustard

Pair each No 7 (2¾mm), No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

22 sts x 28 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 23 (23) inches;
sleeve seam: 23 (23) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Totem Double Crepe which was a pure wool standard double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MustardYellowSweater2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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