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June 2019

Three-ounce top I

3ozHighNeck.jpg

Very pretty lacy tops with the emphasis on wool economy.
The style of this pattern in conjunction with the price (3d), the emphasis on economy, and its pattern sequence number is giving me mixed messages as to the date; however general opinion seems to be that these patterns are from the late 1940s.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.
Note that the two different sizes are achieved by using different needles sizes as well as different numbers of stitches.

Front

With No 13 (12) needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 18 times, then repeat the 1st row again.
40th row: p2tog, purl to end.

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows 7 times more. (80 rows).

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [98 sts]

7th row: As 7th pattern row.
Work the next 3 rows as 8th. 9th and 10th pattern rows to complete one pattern.
Work 4 more complete patterns of 10 rows each.

Shape Neck:
51st row: Work 38 stitches as 1st pattern row, ending k4, wo, k1.

Cast off 22 stitches, (1 stitch on the right-hand needle), pattern 37 stitches.
Work on this 2nd set of 38 stitches for right shoulder.

52nd row: purl 38 stitches.
53rd row: cast off 3 stitches, work in pattern to end.
54th row: purl 35 stitches.
55th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
56th row: purl 33 stitches.
57th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
58th row: purl 31 stitches.
59th row: k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Keeping the pattern correct, work 10 rows on 30 stitches.

70th row: cast off 10 stitches; purl to end.
71st row: Work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: cast off 10 stitches, purl to end.
73rd row: As 71st row.
Cast off.

Left shoulder:
Join wool to neck edge of the remaining 38 stitches, and work to match the right shoulder.

Back

Work to match the front until 5 complete patterns have been worked from the beginning of the armhole shaping.

Divide for Back Opening:

51st row: work 49 stitches in pattern. Turn.
52nd row: increase into 1st stitch; purl to end.
Continue in pattern on these 50 stitches until 2 patterns are completed.

Shape Shoulder:
71st row: cast off 10 stitches, then work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Left Shoulder:
Cast on 3 stitches and join to centre back.
Work to match right shoulder, keeping the 3 extra stitches for underflap in garter stitch, and casting off 22 stitches for neck.

Sleeves:

With No. 13, (12) needles. cast on 87 stitches.
1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
Work in this rib for 8 more rows.

10th row: p3, * increase into next stitch, p8; repeat from to last 4 stitches, increase into next stitch, p3. [98 sts]

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern.
Work 3, (2) complete patterns.
If sleeve is wanted longer for larger size, then work a further complete pattern.

Shape Top:
Cast off 5 stitches twice, and then 4 stitches twice at the beginning of the next 4 rows, [80 sts]
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 44 stitches remain.
Purl one row (40 rows from the beginning of the shaping).
Now cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. (32 stitches remain).
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 20 stitches.

Neck Band

Back-stitch shoulder seams very neatly.
With No 13 (12) needles and right side of work facing, pick up and
knit 120 stitches evenly round neck.
Work in rib of k3, p3, for 9 rows.
Cast off in rib, using a No 11 (10) needle.

Making Up

Seam-stitch side and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves and back-stitch.
Catch down underflap.
Work a row of chain stitch down right side of back opening. turn and
make 4 buttonholes in chain stitch.

Make 4 buttons follows:
Make 8 chain and join in a circle. Work 6 dc into this circle. Work a second round of 6 dc then a round of 4 dc. Break off thread and pull through loop to secure. Stuff with a very small quantity of cotton wool and draw up tight.
Sew on buttons to match.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 (4) ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 13 or (2¼mm), and No 11 (3mm) needles for smaller size.

Pairs of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles for larger size.

A medium crochet hook.

Tension

7½ (7) sts x 10½ (10) rows to 1 inch on No 11 (10) needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34 (36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19) inches; side seam 12 (13) inches; sleeve seam 3½ (4) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

dc: double crochet (that is English double crochet or US single crochet).

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Three-ounce top II

3ozLowNeck.jpg

Very pretty lacy tops with the emphasis on wool economy.
The style of this pattern in conjunction with the price (3d), the emphasis on economy, and its pattern sequence number is giving me mixed messages as to the date; however general opinion seems to be that these patterns are from the late 1940s.

Instructions.

This jumper with the low neck is given only in one size.

Front

With No. 10 needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: As the 1st row.
4th row: k2tog, rib in pattern to end.

Change to pattern as follows:
[Editor's note: This pattern is the same as for thejumper with the high neck.]

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows twice more. (3 complete patterns of 10 rows each).

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows.
[Editor's note: This is to make the shaping for the waist.]

Change back to No 10 needles and work 70 rows.

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 12 stitches. With 1 stitch on the right-hand needle, work as 1st pattern row to the last 12 stitches.
Cast off 12 stitches. Fasten off and break wool.

Cast on 24 stitches. Join to work. Purl 98 stitches, and cast on 24 stitches at the end of the row.
3rd row: k24 stitches and work as 3rd row of pattern to last 24 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: Purl 146 stitches.
5th row: As 5th pattern row.
Work 5 rows to complete the pattern, then work 30 rows.
(4 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping).

Neck Shaping:
1st row: Work 62 stitches as 1st pattern row.
Cast off 22 stitches.
Work on this last set of 62 stitches for right side of neck as follows:
With 1 stitch already on the right-hand needle, work as from * of 1st pattern row to end.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows.
9th row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of this and the following alternate row.
12th row: Purl 38 stitches.
Work 8 rows to complete 6 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping, then work the first 5 rows to start the 7th pattern repeat.

Shape Shoulder:
(6th pattern row). Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 26 stitches in pattern as for 7th pattern row.
Next row: Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 14 stitches in pattern as for 9th pattern row.
Cast off 14 stitches.

Left Side of Neck:
Join wool to neck edge of remaining 62 stitches.

Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows, then cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the 2 following alternate rows.
Work one complete pattern of 10 rows On these 38 stitches, then work 6 rows of 7th pattern from the beginning of the of armhole shaping.

Shape Shoulder as for right side of neck, beginning with a 7th pattern row.

Neck

With No 10 needles and right side of work facing, pick up and knit 98 stitches all round neck.

Purl 1 row.
Next row: As 9th pattern row.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more.

Change to No 12 needles.
Next row: P2tog, purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog. [96 sts]
Next row: k3, p3; repeat to end.
Work 4 rows in this k3/p3 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib, using the wool doubled.
[Editor's note: This make the edge stronger.]

Back

Work to match the front exactly.

Making Up

Run a thread along each of the cast on 24 stitches and gather to fit the 12 cast off stitches. Sew together very neatly on the wrong side.
Seam-stitch side seams, matching pattern exactly, and seam-stitch the neck on each shoulder.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 10 or (3¼mm), and No 12 (2¾mm) needles for smaller size.

Tension

7 sts x 10 rows to 1 inch on No 10 needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34-36 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2019

Cricket (or Tennis) Pullover

CricketPullover.jpg

Anyone for cricket?

I made this as a slipover for a long, lean, and lanky chap; it is based on the pattern given but I adapted it to use some Guernsey yarn instead of DK (by knitting a bigger size and making it much longer to fit the chap - seemed like the body was never-ending!).
The instructions are for a full sweater pattern as well as the slipover.

Instructions.

The sweater is worked in a good range of sizes, intended to cover kids and men, but could also fit women, making suitable length adjustments in body and sleeve. Instructions for the larger sizes are shown in brackets.
Because of the layout for the different sizes, I recommend printing out the instructions and underlining the size you have chosen to work in every section that applies to that size (and maybe crossing through the other inapplicable sections).
There are options for versions with and without sleeves (and with and without team colours, of course).

Sweater Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 77, 83, 89, 95, 99, 105, 111, 117, 121, 127 stitches.

**
1st row (right side facing)
: k1 * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1 * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

If not including contrast colours, Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 10 times then the 1st row again, and continue below with 24th (increase) row.

If including contrast colours, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Join in second colour and repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Break off contrast, and continuing in main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 5 times.
Join in contrast once again and repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Break off contrast, and continuing in main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice, then the 1st row once.
**
Continue with main shade for the remainder of the Back.
24th (increase) row: p3 (4, 7, 8, 6, 5, 6, 9, 7, 8); * increase once in the next stitch purlwise, p1; repeat from * to the last 2 (3, 6, 7, 5, 4, 5, 8, 6, 7) stitches: p2 (3, 6, 7, 5, 4, 5, 8, 6, 7).
[113 (121, 127, 135, 143, 153, 161, 167, 175, 183) sts].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:-

For three smallest sizes only (28, 30 and 32 inch chest):

***
1st row: k0 (4, 7); p2, * slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last 31 (35, 38) stitches, C9B, p2, k7, p2, C9F, p2, k0 (4, 7).
2nd row: p0 (4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9; * k2, p7, k2, p9; repeat from * to last 2 (6, 9) stitches, k2, p0 (4, 7).
3rd row: k0 (4, 7); p2, * k9, p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last 31 (35, 38) stitches, k9, p2, k7, p2, k9, p2, k0 (4, 7).
4th row: p0 (4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9, repeat from * to last 2 (6, 9) stitches, k2, p0 (4, 7).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For the medium-small sizes only (34, and 36 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); repeat from * to last - (-, -, 13, 17) stitches, C9B, p2, k7, p2, p2, k- (-, -, 2, 6).
2nd row: p- (-, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, 2, 6).
3rd row: k- (-, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, k9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, 2, 6).
4th row: p- (-, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; *p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, 2, 6).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For the three medium-large sizes only (38, 40 and 42 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7), p2; * slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 31, 35, 38) stitches, C9F, p2, k7, p2, C9B, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
2nd row: p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 2, 6, 9) stitches, k2, p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
3rd row: k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); p2, * k9, p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 31, 35, 38) stitches, k9, p2, k7, p2, k9, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
4th row: p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9, repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 2, 6, 9) stitches, k2, p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For two largest sizes only (44 and 46 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
2nd row: p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6), k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
3rd row: k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7,p2, k9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
4th row: p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Under each separate section for the size you are working, the instructions embedded between *** to *** forms the pattern.

Keeping continuity of pattern (throughout) continue until work measures 11½ (13, 14, 13½, 15½, 15½, 15½, 15½, 15, 16) inches from the beginning, ending on a wrong side row.

Shape armholes:
Cast off 7 stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
[99 (107, 113, 121, 129, 139, 147, 153, 161, 169) sts].

****
Work 9 (11, 13, 15, 10, 13, 17, 18, 22, 24) rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
[81 (85, 87, 91, 109, 113, 113, 117, 117, 121) sts].

Continue without shaping until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8, , 10½, 10½, 10½, 10½, 11, 11) inches, ending on the wrong side.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Cast off remaining 33 (37, 37, 37, 37, 43, 43, 43, 43, 47) stitches in pattern.

Sweater Front

Work exactly as given for back until **** is reached in the armhole shaping section.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 45 (49, 52, 56, 60, 65, 69, 72, 76, 80) stitches, k2tog; turn.

Working on these 47 (51, 54, 58, 62, 67, 71, 74, 78, 82) stitches only, proceed as follows:

Next row: pattern to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
[46 (50, 53, 57, 61, 66, 70, 73, 77, 81) sts]

Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 5, 11, 15, 16, 13, 21) rows, decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row, and at the same time decreasing at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row.
[35 (36, 36, 37, 53, 49, 47, 49, 57, 49) sts]

For one medium and the two largest sizes only (36, 44 and 46 inch chest):

Work - (-, -, -, 3, -, -, -, 7, 1) rows, decreasing once at the armhole edge in every row, at the same time decreasing once at the neck edge on the - (-, -, -, 0, -, -, -, 4th, 0) row.
[- (-, -, -, 50, -, -, -, 49, 48) sts]

For the smallest and other large sizes only (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42 inch chest):

Work 12 (14, 12, 6, -, 6, 2, 1, -, -) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on every following 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 2nd, -, 2nd, 2nd, 1st, -, -) row.
[29 (29, 30, 34, -, 46, 46, 48, -, -) sts]

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Work 20 (20, 20, 28, 53, 44, 44, 44, 45, 43) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on the 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 3rd), and every following 4th row.
[24 (24, 25, 27, 36, 35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts]

Continue without shaping until armhole measures same as Back to "Shape Shoulders" section, ending on wrong side row.

Shape shoulders:
Next row: cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern and then pattern to end of row.
Next row: pattern to end of row.
Cast off remaining 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern.

Work the other half of the front to match the first as follows:

With right side facing, slip the first stitch of the the remaining stitches on to a safety pin (this is the centre stitch).
Rejoin the yarn to the remaining 49 (53, 56, 60, 64, 69, 73, 76, 80, 84) stitches and proceed as follows:-

Next row: k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
[47 (51, 54, 58, 62, 67, 71, 74, 78, 82) sts]
Next row: p2tog, pattern to end
[46 (50, 53, 57, 61, 66, 70, 73, 77, 81) sts]

Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 5, 11, 15, 16, 13, 21) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row.
[35 (36, 36, 37, 53, 49, 47, 49, 57, 49) sts]

For one medium and the two largest sizes only (36, 44 and 46 inch chest):

Work - (-, -, -, 3, -, -, -, 7, 1) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge on the - (-, -, -, 0, -, -, -, 4th, 0) row, at the same time decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row.
[- (-, -, -, 50, -, -, -, 49, 48) sts]

For the smallest and other large sizes only (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42 inch chest):

Work 12 (14, 12, 6, -, 6, 2, 1, -, -) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on every following 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 2nd, -, 2nd, 2nd, 1st, -, -) row.
[29 (29, 30, 34, -, 46, 46, 48, -, -) sts]

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Work 20 (20, 20, 28, 53, 44, 44, 44, 45, 43) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on the 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 3rd), and every following 4th row.
[24 (24, 25, 27, 36, 35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts]

Continue without shaping until armhole measures same as Back to "Shape Shoulders" section ending on right side.

Shape shoulders:
Next row: cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern and then pattern to end of row.
Next row: pattern to end of row.
Cast off remaining 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern.

Sweater Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 needles and main shade, cast on 43 (43, 45, 45, 55, 55, 59, 59, 59, 61) stitches.

Work from ** to ** as given for Back.

24th (increase) row: p6 (6, 8, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13); * increase once in the next stitch purlwise; repeat from * to the last 7 (7, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14) stitches: p7 (7, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14).
[73 (73, 73, 73, 87, 87, 95, 95, 95, 95) sts].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and using main shade throughout proceed in pattern as give for 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) size of Back and at the same time, increasing once at each end of the 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) and every following 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) row until there are 87 (81, 89, 81, 117, 117, 107, 107, 125, 125) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern.

For all sizes EXCEPT the smallest only (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 inch chest):

Increase once at each end of the following - (6th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row, until there are 87 (95, 95, 101, 129, 129, 129, 129, 137, 137) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern.

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Continue without shaping until sleeve measures 14½ (15½, 16½, 17, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20) inches, ending on the wrong side.

Shape Sleeve Top
Work 18 (26, 26, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28, 28) rows, casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of every row.
[69 (69, 69, 77, 103, 103, 101, 101, 109, 109) sts].

Work 20 (20, 20, 24, 36, 36, 32, 32, 36, 36) rows, casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row.
[29 (29, 29, 29, 31, 31, 37, 37, 37, 37) sts].

Cast off loosely in pattern.

Sweater Neckband

Join right shoulder seams.
With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade, and commencing at the top of the left front neck, pick up and knit 45 (49, 49, 51, 63, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65) stitches evenly down the left side of the the front neck, knit the centre stitch you left on a safety pin, pick up and knit 45 (49, 49, 51, 63, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65) stitches evenly up the right side of the the front neck, and 32 (36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 42, 42, 46) stitches evenly across the cast-off stitches of the back neck.
[123 (135, 135, 139, 163, 169, 169, 169, 173, 177) sts].

If you are including a contrast then proceed as follows, otherwise follow the same instructions using only the main shade.

1st row: Using main shade * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch pl.
2nd row: Join in and use contrast, k1, [p1, k1] 21 (23, 23, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 31, 31) times; k2togtbl, k1,k2tog; k1, [p1, k1] 37 (41, 41, 42, 48, 51, 51, 51, 52, 54) times.
3rd row: Using contrast, [p1, k1] 37 (41, 41, 42, 48, 51, 51, 51, 52, 54) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 21 (23, 23, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 31, 31) times. Break off contrast.
4th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 20 (22, 22, 23, 29, 29, 29, 29, 30, 30) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 36 (40, 40, 41, 47, 50, 50, 50, 51, 53) times.
5th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 36 (40, 40, 41, 47, 50, 50, 50, 51, 53) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 20 (22, 22, 23, 29, 29, 29, 29, 30, 30) times.
6th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 19 (21, 21, 22, 28, 28, 28, 28, 29, 29) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 35 (39, 39, 40, 46, 49, 49, 49, 50, 52) times.
7th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 35 (39, 39, 40, 46, 49, 49, 49, 50, 52) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 19 (21, 21, 22, 28, 28, 28, 28, 29, 29) times.
8th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 18 (20, 20, 21, 27, 27, 27, 27, 28, 28) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 34 (38, 38, 39, 45, 48, 48, 48, 49, 51) times.
9th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 34 (38, 38, 39, 45, 48, 48, 48, 49, 51) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 18 (20, 20, 21, 27, 27, 27, 27, 28, 28) times.
10th row: Join in and use contrast, k1, [p1, k1] 17 (19, 19, 20, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27, 27) times; k2togtbl, k1, k2tog; k1, [p1, k1] 33 (37, 37, 38, 44, 47, 47, 47, 48, 50) times.
11th row
: Using contrast, [p1, k1] 33 (37, 37, 38, 44, 47, 47, 47, 48, 50) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 17 (19, 19, 20, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27, 27) times. Break off contrast.
12th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 16 (18, 18, 19, 25, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 32 (36, 36, 37, 43, 46, 46, 46, 47, 49) times.
13th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 32 (36, 36, 37, 43, 46, 46, 46, 47, 49) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 16 (18, 18, 19, 25, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26) times.
[99 (111, 111, 115, 139, 145, 145, 145, 149, 153) sts].

Cast off in rib.

To Make Up the Sweater

Review the yarn ball band for any special washing or pressing instructions.
Join left shoulder and neckband seams.
Set in sleeves, placing centre of head of sleeve to shoulder
seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Slipover Back, Front, and Neckband

Work exactly as given for sweater.

Slipover Armbands (alike)

Join left shoulder and neckband seams.

With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade pick up and knit 101 (107, 107, 113, 135, 135, 135, 135, 141, 141) stitches evenly around the armhole edge.

If you are including a contrast then proceed as follows, otherwise follow the same instructions using only the main shade.

1st row: Join in and use contrast, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: Using contrast, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

Using main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using contrast, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once. Break off contrast.
Using main shade, repeat 1st row once.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up the Slipover

Review the yarn ball band for any special washing or pressing instructions.
Join side and armband seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn in white or ivory.
Oddments of colours for contrast if required.
Sweater:
4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 9) x 100g balls
Slipover:
2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) x 100g balls

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

29sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over pattern.
Editors note: When substituting yarns, making a swatch is a good idea; I think you are fairly safe to assume that this is designed for a standard DK - 22sts x 30rows in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest:
28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) inches (actual measurement is larger giving ease from 3 inches on smallest size up to 4 inches on largest size).
Length: 19 (21, 22, 22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27) inches.
Sleeve seam:
14½ (15½, 16½, 17, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
tbl: through back loop
C9B: slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle
C9F: slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a good quality double knitting woollen blend.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

© Christina Coutts 2007

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