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June 2022

Cool Customer

CoolCustomer.jpg

An easy ribbed slipover for breezier summer days.

Instructions.

The main pattern stitch is named as "beaded rib" worked as follows:

1st row and all odd rows (right side facing): knit
2nd row and all even rows: * k1; k1b (see abbreviations). Repeat from * to end of round.
Editor's note: I would call this stitch "mock fisherman's rib" - "mock" because the alternate rows are knitted plain.

Back

With smaller sized needles, cast on 134/140/146/152/158 stitches, and work 2¾ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to larger needles and work in the "beaded rib" stitch until work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next, and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows.
[104/108/112/116/120 sts]

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/2 inches.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 10/9/10/11/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, k18/9/10/11/11, cast off centre 28/30/32/34/34, knit to end.
Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, p18/19/19/19/20 and then turn, leaving the 19/20/20/20/21 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.

Next row: cast off 10 at the neck edge, knit to end.
Next row: cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and cast off 10 at the neck edge, purl to end. Turn and cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder.

Front

Work as for back up to the start of the armhole shaping when work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Start the armhole shaping, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows.
[114/120/126/128/134 sts]

Divide for neck by continuing on the first half of the stitches only and placing the remaining half of the stitches [57/60/63/64/67 sts] on a spare needle.

Keeping the pattern correct, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows, and, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 5th row 24/25/26/27/27 times. [28/29/30/31/33 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/2 inches, then shape shoulders by casting off at the armhole edge on every alternate row, 10/9/10/11/11 stitches once, and 9/10/10/10/11 stitches twice.

Rejoin the yarn to the stitches on the spare needle and work the other side of the neck to match, reversing the shapings.

To Make Up

Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
With double pointed needles or circular, beginning at the lowest point of the V-neck, pick up and knit 64/68/72/76/80 stitches up the right neck edge, then 46/50/52/54/54 stitches around the back neck, then
64/68/72/76/80 stitches down the left neck edge.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib, but work
back and forth (rather than in the round), decreasing 1 stitch at each end on every row.
Bind off loosely in rib and sew the neck border bias seam.

Armhole borders:
With smaller size needles, pick up and knit 184/190/196/202/206 stitches evenly around the armholes.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib.
Bind off loosely in rib.

Sew side seams including the armhole border seams.

Block and press as required.

Materials

4 ply yarn:
6/7/7/8/8 x 50g balls

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2¾mm) double pointed needles or circular.

Tension

28sts and 60 rows to 4 inches on 3¼mm needles over "beaded rib" stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
38/40/41/43/44 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k1b: knit 1 below: insert needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch to be knitted, and knit off both stitches at the same time.
Editor's note: This stitch is fairly well known now due to the popularity of brioche knitting; however it's easier to demonstrate than describe, so if you don't understand then look for video demonstrations on YouTube or similar.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was an acrylic yarn with a yardage of about 170m per 50g ball.

You can use a 4 or 5 ply yarn for this loose fitting design, but check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

May 2022

Long Lacy Sweater

LongLacySweater.jpg

This sweater from the end of the 1970s is a presage of the style that became so ubiquitous in the 1980s - the oversized unisex sweater with drop shoulders and no shaping. It is very simply constructed with wide squared off sleeves and no armhole shaping on the body. The neck opening is formed from a vertical slit, rather like a poncho - all very simple.

This is one of my favourite types of sweater - really long and slouchy with a deep welt - suitable to wear with narrow trousers or leggings. [Clearly I belong in the 1980s.] In addition, the stitch used is an openwork lacy pattern which I find very satisfying to knit. In fact, this particular sweater looks so very long, I might be tempted to knit it shorter for myself (I am not very tall) to keep the style of a tunic rather than a dress.
...the length is mini-skirt, the style blouson. Surprisingly easy to knit, this feminine open lace stitch sweater worked on large size needles adds new dimensions to a sporty Aran...

Instructions.

The pattern is written for one size only, and at 34 to 38 inches this might be a bit of a limitation. It is designed to be oversized, so the actual measurement should come out at about 41 inches if you achieve the stated tension.

[Editor's note: I can see why they would have had difficulty providing a sensible larger size, as the lace pattern is repeated over 34 stitches - so if you added another repeat it would increase the size by at least 12 inches. Having said that, many oversize sweaters, both in the eighties and now, are designed to be in excess of 50 inches as a supposed "one size", and it would be a moderately feasible task to redraft the pattern, due to the lack of shaping - if you had the appetite for it.]

Front

** With 4mm needles, cast on 88 stitches.

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows until work measures 8½ inches (21 cm), ending with a 1st row.

Next row: p6, increase in the next stitch, * p4, increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last 6 stitches, p6. [104 sts].

Change to No 5½ mm needles and work in pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * k3, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k3; repeat from * to
last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. 3rd row: k1, * k1, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * p2togtbl, p4, yrn. p3, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

5th - 12th rows: Repeat 1st to 4th rows twice.

13th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k6, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
14th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p4, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
16th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p3, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

17th - 24th rows: Repeat 13th to 16th rows twice.

These 24 rows form the pattern. **
Continue in pattern until Front measures 30 inches (76 cm), ending with right side facing for next row (measured with work hanging from needle to allow for drop).
[Editor's note: Calculating from the tension this should be about 108 rows in the pattern or 4½ pattern repeats.]

Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: Make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row..]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Front measures 38 inches (97cm), ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: I think they rather gloss over this instruction - you need to have made a note of the row number on which you divided for the neck so you can make sure you resume the pattern here on the correct row.]

Back

Work as for Front from ** to **.
Continue in pattern until Back measures 34 inches (86 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: As you did for the Front, make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row.]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Back matches Front at side edge, ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: Having seen how you did it with the Front, you can resume the pattern here on the correct row, using the note you made when you divided the Back neck.]

Sleeves

With 4mm needles, cast on 36 stitches and work in rib as for Front for 4 inches (10cm), ending with a 1st row.
Next row: p1, * increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1. [70 sts]
Change to 5½mm needles, and work in pattern as for Front until Sleeve measures 18 inches (46cm) down centre, ending with right side
facing.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.
Placing centre of cast-off stitches of sleeves to shoulder seams, sew sleeves in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

18 x 50g balls of Aran weight yarn yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm), 5 (5½mm).

Tension

This design uses big needles so the tension is
20 stitches x 20 rows to 4 ins on No 5½mm needles over the pattern - different from the usual Aran tension.

The original yarn knitted to a tension of 18 stitches x 24 rows to 4 inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-38 inches; length: 38 inches;
and sleeve seam: 18 inches.

Abbreviations

M2: make 2 stitches by picking up the horizontal loop lying before the next stitch and working into back and front of it.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward" / "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1k: slip one stitch knitwise.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 stitches together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 stitches together.
tbl: through back loop(s).
sl: slip.

A word on the wool.

The original sweater was knitted in a Patons Capstan - a pure wool classic Aran weight yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2022

Colour Pop Cushions

PopCushions.jpg

These crochet cushion covers are really easy (and quick) to make in double knitting yarn, and would be good for a beginner if you fancy them. They are so simple that an experienced crocheter could no doubt make them without a pattern. However, although simple, they are a good example of creating an effect purely through the use of colour - if you want them to really pop, use opposites on the colour wheel (turquoise/tangerine, purple/yellow] - or you can dial it right down and use natural sheep colours. As the size and therefore tension for cushion covers is pretty adaptable, it could provide a useful project for handspun, - or you could use up any bright knitting oddments for a colourful designer effect, (as controversially favoured by our current colourful prime minister).

Instructions.

Basic instructions for 4 cushions as illustrated.
[Editor's note: The patchwork square will give you the most practice with the various stitches, and the plain square is the simplest (but less interesting!).]

Chevron cushion

Using B, make 68 chain.

Foundation row: using B, 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch, (decrease 2, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch) 3 times, decrease 2, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch, 2 tr in last ch. [65 sts - 3 ch at start of row counts as 1 stitch]

Joining in colours as required, work in pattern as follows:

1st row: using B, 3 ch, 1 tr in first stitch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 stitches, (decrease 2, 1 tr in each of the next 6 stitches, 3 tr in the next stitch, 1 tr in each of next 6 stitches) 3 times, decrease 2, 1 tr in each of the next 6 stitches, 2 tr in top of 3 ch
2nd and 3rd rows: in G as 1st row.
4th and 5th rows: in Y as 1st row.
6th row: in B as 1st row.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Repeat them 8 times more, then the 1st - 5th rows again.
Fasten off.

Making up the chevron cushion

Join starting and finishing edges using a flat seam.
Join 1 side edge. Slip in pad, and join remaining side.


Patchwork cushion

Make 2 of each of the following squares:

First Square (wide stripes):

Using B, make 33 chain.
Foundation row: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each remaining chain. [31 sts]
Next row: 3 ch, miss first stitch, 1 tr in each remaining stitch.

Continue repeating last row, working 1 row more in B, then 3 rows G, 3 rows Y, 3 rows B, 3 rows G, 3 rows Y: 18 rows in all.
Fasten off.

Second Square (mitred corner):

Work 18 rows as for first square, but working 1 row B, 1 row G, 1 row Y.

Third Square (wide stripes):

Using Y, make 4 chain.
Foundation row: Using Y, (1 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr), all 4th ch from hook.

1st row: Using Y, 3 ch, (3 tr, 1 ch 3 tr) all chain space, 1 tr in top of 3 starting chain. [3 ch counts as 1 stitch, 3 tr forms a group]

2nd row: Using G, 3 ch, 1 tr in space between first stitch and next group, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 2 tr in space between last group and 3 ch.
[2 groups with ch space at centre and half a group at each end.]

3rd row: Using G, 3 ch, 1 group in space between half group and next group, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in space between group and half group, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.
[4 groups with 3 ch and tr at each end.]

4th row: Using B, 3 ch, 1 tr in space between first stitch and group, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, 2 tr in space between last group and 3 ch.
[4 groups half a group at each end.]

5th row: Using B, 3 ch, 1 group in space between half group and group, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, 1 group in space between group and half group, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.
[6 groups.]

6th row: Using Y, 3 ch, 1 tr in space between first stitch and group, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, 2 tr in space between last group and 3 ch.

7th row: Using Y, 3 ch, 1 group in space between half group and group, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, 1 group in space between last group and half group, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.

8th and 9th rows: Using G, as 6th and 7th rows.
10th and 11th rows: Using B, as 6th and 7th rows.
12th - 17th rows: as 6th - 11th rows. [18 groups]

Fasten off.

Fourth Square (squared circle):

** worked in rounds as follows:
Foundation: Using Y, make 4 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.

1st round: Using Y, 4 ch, (3 tr, 1 ch) 3 times into the ring, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain.

2nd round: Using G, slip stitch into first ch space (formed by top of starting chain of previous round), then 4 ch, 3 tr into that same ch space, (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch space) 3 times, 2 tr in first chain space again, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain.
[3 tr form a group]

3rd round: Using B, slip stitch into first ch space, then 4 ch, 1 group into that same ch space, (1 group in next space between 2 groups, 1 group, 1 ch , 1 group in next ch space) 3 times, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, 2 tr in first ch space, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain.

4th round: Using Y, slip stitch into first ch space, then 4 ch, 1 group into that same ch space, * 1 group in each space between 2 groups,1 group, 1 ch, 1 group in ch space; repeat from * but ending with 2 tr in first ch space, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain, as on previous rounds.

5th round: Using G, work as 4th round.
6th round: Using B, work as 4th round.
**
7th - 9th rounds: work as 4th - 6th rounds.

Making up the patchwork cushion

Using a flat seam piece together the squares, to make two large squares each made up of 4 smaller squares, for the front and back of the cushion (see photograph).

Join 3 sides, slip in pad, and join remaining side.


Block cushion

The fourth square of the patchwork cushion is a squared-off circle - a form of the traditional "granny" square. The block cushion is a giant version of this square.
Work as for the fourth square of the patchwork cushion above from ** to **. Then repeat the 4th - 6th rounds 4 times more, then the 4th and 5th rounds once again.
Fasten off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Making up the block cushion

Join 3 sides, slip in pad, and join remaining side.


Plain cushion

Using a single colour throughout, make 62 chain.

Foundation row: 1 tr in 4th chain from hook, 1 tr in each remaining chain. [60 sts - 3 ch at start of row counts as 1 st]

Next row: 3 ch, miss first stitch, 1 tr in each remaining stitch.

Repeat the last row until cushion measures 16 inches (or to make the size you require).
Fasten off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Making up the plain cushion

Join 3 sides, slip in pad, and join remaining side.

Materials

Standard double knitting yarn in colours of your choice. As in photo, they are labeled B (blue), Y (yellow), and G (green).

A 5mm (UK 6) crochet hook.

Chevron cushion:
2 (50g) balls in each of 3 colours.

Patchwork cushion:
2 (50g) balls in each of 3 colours.

Block cushion:
2 (50g) balls in each of 2 colours.

Plain cushion:
4(50g) balls.

Tension

14sts x 8½ rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size Matters

Approximate size: 16 x 16 inches
(41 x 41cm)

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
tr: treble crochet
sp: space
sl: slip stitch
gr: group
decrease 2: (yarn round hook, draw loop through next stitch, draw loop through 2 loops on hook) repeat 3 times, draw loop through all 4 loops on hook
dc: double crochet
dc: double crochet
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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