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May 2024

Batwing Summer Wrap

BatwingStole.jpg

All the benefits of a shawl or stole, but with sleeve closures to keep it securely on your shoulders - here we have a completely simple, batwing stole, knitted in two pieces with a centre back seam. There is a little bit of decreasing to shape the armholes, but the whole garment is knitted in garter stitch.
The photo shows it knitted in stripes but, for even more simplicity, it could be a single colour - maybe using a self striping yarn.

Instructions

One Size only.
Note: Carry colours not in use loosely up side of work.
B: Main shade (blue); G: 1st contrast (grey); W: 2nd contrast (white).

Left Side

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade Blue (B), cast on 116 stitches and noting that 1st row is a wrong side row, work 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).

Change to No 7 (4½mm ) needles and continue in garter stitch and stripes of 6 rows 1st Contrast Grey (G), 4 rows 2nd Contrast White (W) and 8 rows main shade Blue (B), until work measures 7 inches, ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping continuity of stripes, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 66 stitches remain.

Work 2 rows.
Cast off.

Right Side

Work as for Left Side but shaping the armhole by decreasing at the end of the rows instead of the beginning.

Making up and borders

Do not press.
Using a flat seam, join the straight side edges to form the centre back seam.

Arm Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles
and B, knit up 84 stitches along the shaped edges.
Work 6 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Fold Arm Borders in half (right sides inside) so that the short side edges meet the cast-off edges.
Join these edges together with a fine back-stitch seam.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting yarn, 25% wool , 75% acrylic. For this pattern it's loosely knitted on 4½mm needles.

 

Materials

DK 50g balls:
3 in main shade
2 in 1st contrast
1 in 2nd contrast

One pair each of No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 28 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BatwingStoleDiagram.jpg

April 2024

Perfectly Suited

PerfectlySuited.jpg

Eye-catching (to say the least...) outfit in colours typical for the 1970s (although other colour palette suggestions are provided in the original pattern).
Very much of its time - but the plain roll-neck sweater (with its light textured detail), and the sleeveless cardigan (maybe without the buttons?) might translate to a pleasing contemporary combination.

"Smart three-piece suit: polo sweater in twisted stocking stitch, skirt and sleeveless cardigan in 4-colour tweed-effect. "

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 108 (114, 120) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work in twisted stocking stitch thus:
1st Row: knit across all stitches through back loop (ktbl).
2nd Row: purl.
These 2 rows form twisted stocking stitch ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch until work measures 16 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 80 (84, 88) stitches remain ★★.

Continue straight until work measures 23 (23½, 24) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 6 (7, 8) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 36 (38, 40) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the back neck.

Jumper Front

Work as for the back up to ★★.
Continue straight until work measures 21 (21½, 22) inches, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: ktbl 29 (30, 31) stitches; turn.
Continue on these stitches only.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows.
Work 8 rows straight.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches.

With right side facing, slip the centre 22 (24, 26) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Complete the other side of the neck to match.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 11 needles, cast on 44 (46, 48) stitches.
Work as for the back to ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 72 (78, 84) stitches
Continue straight until work measures 17 inches.

To shape the top cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 stitches remain; then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 10 rows.
Cast off.

Jumper Polo Collar

Join the right shoulder.
With right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 18 stitches down the left side of the neck, ktbl the stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 18 stitches up the right side of the neck, ktbl
the stitches from the back neck. [94 (98, 102) sts]

Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 9 needles and rib a further 3½ inches.
Cast off loosely ribwise.


Sleeveless Cardigan Back

Using No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 115 (123, 131) stitches.

Moss Stitch row: k1, (p1, k1) to end.

Editors note: Moss stitch - or "seed stitch" - is worked by alternating knit and purl stitches on every row - like ribbing. However, unlike ribbing, you do not align the knit and purl stitches vertically above each other but do the exact opposite; so, as you view the stitches, you will knit a stitch showing a purl "bump" from the previous row, and purl into a knit stitch.
"Double moss stitch" (not seen in this pattern) is usually where you do 2 rows of apparent rib with the stitches aligned vertically, then for the next two "rib" rows you misalign them with the previous two rows - and so on.
The row given above works up into moss stitch when repeated on an odd number of stitches.

Repeat the Moss Stitch row row 9 times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st Row: with main shade M, k1, (sl1 purlwise, k3) to the last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, k1.
2nd Row: with M, p1, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p1.
3rd Row: join in first contrast (O), (sl1 purlwise, k3) to end.
4th Row: with O, p3, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to end.
5th and 6th Rows: with 2nd contrast (R) work as 1st and 2nd rows.
7th and 8th Rows: with 3rd contrast (G) work as 3rd and 4th rows.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Pattern until work measures 21 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 83 (87, 91) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Work as for the back of the sweater.
Leave the remaining 39 (41, 43) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Editors note: Although the original pattern explicitly states to leave these stitches, I do not see why you would not cast them off at this point - given that you are not required to pick them up again at any point later on, and the edging band is designed to be sewn all around the fronts and back neck.

Sleeveless Cardigan Right Front

Using No. 11 needles and M cast on 59 (63, 67) stitches.
Work as for the back up to the armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Armhole and Front Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 (10, 11) rows, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row; then continue shaping front edge only, until 22 (23, 24) stitches remain.
Work 5 rows.

Shoulder Shaping :
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches

Sleeveless Cardigan Left Front

Work as for the right front, reversing shapings.

Sleeveless Cardigan Bands

Join shoulders.
Using No 11 needles and main shade cast on 9 stitches.
Work 2 inches in moss stitch.

Next Row (make buttonhole): moss stitch 3, cast off 3, moss stitch 3.
Next Row: moss stitch 3, cast on 3, moss stitch 3.
Continue in moss stitch, making further buttonholes 2½ inches apart (measure from base of previous buttonhole) until there are 8 in all.
Continue until band, when slightly stretched, fits all around both fronts
and across back neck.
Cast off.

Work the armbands in the same way, omitting the buttonholes.


Skirt (Back and Front Alike)

Using No 11 needles and colour M, cast on 147 (155, 163) stitches.
Work 10 rows in moss stitch.
Change to No 8 needles and working in pattern as for the sleeveless cardigan, decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row until 101 (109, 117 ) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 20 (20½, 21) inches.

Change to No 11 needles, and using M, work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row with "p1".
Cast off loosely ribwise.


Making Up

Press or block work according to yarn type.

Sweater:
Join the left shoulder and polo collar seams.
Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Sleeveless Cardigan:
Join the side seams.
Sew on the front band.
Join the cast-on and cast-off edges of the armbands.
Sew on the armbands with the seam placed at the underarms.
Sew on the buttons.

Skirt:
Join the side seams.
Join the elastic in a ring and attach to the wrong side of the waist with a herringbone casing.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 1 oz balls:
Jumper:
16 (17, 18)
Sleeveless cardigan:
5 (5, 6) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours
Skirt:
3 (3, 3) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 9 (3¾mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

8 buttons for cardigan.
Waist-length elastic for skirt

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over twisted stocking stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

24 sts x 40 rows measured over Pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34, (36, 38) inches; hips 36 (38, 40) inches.

Sleeveless cardigan length: 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Skirt length:
21 (21½, 22) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit the stitch through the back loop (thus twisting the stitch)
k2tog/p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.

M - Gold
O - Orange
R - Red
G - Green

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a pure wool double knitting crepe.

The later yarn sold in 50g balls states a yardage of 123yds/112m per 50g.

Colours illustrated:
Sun Gold,
Mexican Orange,
Love Apple Red,
Woodland Green.
Suggested other combinations:
Ivory, Peach,
Roman Pink, and
Medoc - or -
White, Peacock.
Club Navy, and
Aubretia.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2024

Brer Rabbit

BrerRabbit.jpg

Another delightfully plain and practical pram set for a little one, including leggings, a jumper, and a jaunty beret!

Instructions

Jumper Back

Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib for 1½ inches ending with a wrong side row.

Change to size 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Continue until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from to , until 42 (44, 44, 46) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: k2, p2tog , k10 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following alternate row until 5 stitches remain.
Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge until 2 stitches remain, working the decreases at the outer armhole edge when they can no longer be worked inside the border of 2 stitches.

Work 1 row; k2tog, and fasten off.

Slip the centre 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in the yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches; knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog , k2.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Sleeves

Using size 12 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) stitches and work in k1/ p1 rib for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 52 (56, 60, 64) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a flat stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open. With the right side of the work facing and using size 12 needles, knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 12 stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches at the centre; pick up and knit 12 stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on top of the Right Sleeve, and the 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches on the back neck.
[76 (84, 84, 92) sts.]

Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ inch.
Cast off in rib.


Leggings - right leg

Using size 12 needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 4, * yfwd., k2tog, rib 2. Repeat from * to end.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Change to size 10 needles and work as follows.

Shape Back

1st row: knit 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: knit 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: purl to end.
5th row: knit 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: purl to end.
7th row: knit 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: purl to end.

★★ Continue in stocking stitch, working across all stitches for 28 (32, 32, 34) rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 5th row until there are 88 (92, 96, 100) stitches on the needle, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 2 rows. [92 (96, 100, 104) sts]

Commence Leg Shaping by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 66 (72, 76, 80) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row until 38 (38, 42, 42) stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 16½ (17¼, 17¾, 18½) inches at the longest (back) edge, ending with a purl row. ★★

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 31 (31, 34, 34) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k3, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 29).
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k2, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28).
5th row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 27).
6th row: purl.
Cast off.

Leggings - left leg

Work as for Right Leg from to .

Shape Back

1st row: purl 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: knit to end.
3rd row: purl 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: knit to end.
5th row: purl 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: knit to end.
7th row: purl 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: knit to end.

Commencing with a purl row, follow the instructions for the Right Leg from ★★ to ★★.

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 20 (20, 22, 22) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k24 (26, 27, 29); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k3.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k23 (25, 26, 28); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k2.
5th row: k22 (24, 25, 27); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k1.
6th row: purl.
Cast off.


Beret

Using size 12 needles, cast on 132 (132, 136, 136) stitches and work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.

Next row (increase row): rib 7 (7, 9, 9). * work twice into the next stitch, rib 2; repeat from * to the last 8 (8, 10, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 7 (7, 9, 9).
[172 (172, 176, 176) sts]

Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Work 20 (20, 24, 24) rows.

Shape Crown
1st decrease row: k8 (8, 6, 6), * k2tog, k9 (9, 7, 7); repeat from * to last 10 (10, 8, 8) stitches; k2tog, k8 (8, 6, 6).
[157 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
2nd decrease row: * k9; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[131 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
3rd decrease row: * k7; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[105 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
4th decrease row: * k5; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[79 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
5th decrease row: * k3; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[53 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
6th decrease row: * k1; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[27 sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k3tog all along the row. [9 sts]

Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

To Make Up

Jumper
Sew in zip to left back raglan seam, then join the remainder of the seam.
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.

Leggings
Using a back stitch, join the back, front, leg and foot seams.
Thread elastic through eyelet holes at the waist.

Beret
Using a flat stitch, join the seam.
Sew a pompon to the top of the crown.
To make a pompon, cut wool into 3 inch lengths; tie securely in the centre; fluff out and trim to shape.

Materials

4 ply yarn 25g balls:
Jumper: 3 (3, 4, 5)
Leggings: 4 (4, 5, 5)
Beret: 2 (2, 2, 2)

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

4 inch zip fastener for jumper
Elastic for leggings waist

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
19 (20, 21, 22) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: work two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")
stocking stitch: alternate Rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a superwash wool. It appeared as 1 oz balls, then as per this pattern in 25g balls, and finally in 50g balls.

Possible yardage based on the 50g ball information is 93 yards (85 metres) to 25g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

© Christina Coutts 2007

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