Pattern of the Month

Instructions for Jacket and Skirt Suit

Jacket Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and B, cast on 80 / 84 / 88 / 92 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 10 / 12 / 4 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, * knit 4, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 9 / 11 / 3 / 5 stitches, knit 9 / 11 / 3 / 5.
[93 / 97 / 105 / 109 stitches]

With right side facing, change to No 7 (4½mm) needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: using D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: using D, * p2, with wool at front, slip 1 purlwise, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
3rd row: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: using B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1. 6th row: using B, * slip 1, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until back measures approximately 14 inches, ending with 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until 69 / 73 / 79 / 83 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 6 / 2 / 5, p2tog, * p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last 4 / 5 / 3 / 4 stitches, purl 4 / 5 / 3 / 4.
[58 / 62 / 66 / 70 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until back measures 21 / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining 24 / 26 / 28 / 30 stitches.

Jacket Left Front

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 3 / 3 / 5 / 3, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 4 / 3 / 2 / 2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 4 / 4 / 6 / 4 stitches, knit 4 / 4 / 6 / 4.
[45 / 49 / 53 / 57 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and diamond pattern, starting with 1st pattern row, and work straight until front matches back at side edge, ending with 8th pattern row.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next and every alternate row until 33 / 37 / 40 / 44 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 4 / 3 / 1, p2tog, * purl 3 / 2 / 2 / 2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 3 / 3 / 3 / 1 stitches, purl 3 / 3 / 3 / 1.
[27 / 29 / 31 / 33 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until front measures 19½ / 20 / 20 / 20½ inches down centre.
With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on every row until 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

Jacket Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 40 / 42 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 11 rows garter stitch.
With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th/7th/7th/5th and every following 8th row, until there are 56 / 60 / 60 / 64 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 22 / 24 / 20 / 22 stitches remain. Purl back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 / 18 / 18 / 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 60 / 62 / 64 / 66 stitches and work in garter stitch, shaping collar by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 70 / 72 / 74 / 76 stitches
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 7 / 8 / 8 / 8, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 / 4 / 5 / 6 stitches; knit 6 / 4 / 5 / 6.
[78 / 80 / 82 / 84 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, knit 8 / 9 / 9 / 9, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches; knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[86 / 88 / 90 / 92 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 9 / 10 / 10 / 10, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[ 94 / 96 / 98 / 100 sts]

Work 7 rows straight,
Next row: * knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 10 / 11 / 11 / 11, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 8 / 6 / 7 / 8 stitches, knit 8 / 6 / 7 / 8.
[102 / 104 / 106 / 108 sts]

Work 7 rows straight. Cast off.

Front Bands

Right: With No 10 needles and B, pick up and knit 107 / 109 / 109 / 111 stitches up right front to start of neck shaping.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Make 7 buttonholes in next 2 rows as follows:—
Next row: knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5, (cast off 3, knit 13) 6 times, cast off 3, knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5.
Next row: knit, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Left: Work to correspond with right front band, omitting buttonholes.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Pin cast-on and increasing edge of collar all round neck, starting and ending in centre of front bands.
Sew neatly in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press stud under collar.

Skirt

First panel:
With No 10 needles and B, cast on 55 / 59 / 63 / 67 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch, (every row, knit).
Next row: knit, increasing 10 stitches evenly across.
[65 / 69 / 73 / 77 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: in D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
2nd row: in D, * p2, slip 1 purlwise, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
3rd row: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: in B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
6th row: * slip 1, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work a further 4 / 8 / 10 / 16 rows straight in pattern.
Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 16th / 14th / 14th / 12th row until 51 / 53 / 57 / 59 stitches remain. **

Work 3 / 3 / 1 / 1 rows straight, then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until 31 / 33 / 35 / 37 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 20 / 20½ / 21 / 21½ inches down centre, ending with 8th pattern row.
Break D.

Change to No 10 needles, and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib in B.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Make 3 more panels the same, one for each side, and one more for back or front.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join seams.
Press seams.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join into a ring; sew inside top of skirt using herringbone stitch over elastic to form a casing.

Materials

Jacket:
15 / 16 / 17 / 18 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
4 / 4 / 5 / 5 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Skirt:
8 / 9 / 9 / 10 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
6 / 4 / 6 / 6 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.
½ inch wide elastic to fit waist.
1 press stud.

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

18sts and 25 rows to 4 inches in tweed yarn on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Jacket:
To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches;
sleeve seam: 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16

Skirt:
To fit hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length: 21/ 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches;

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed DK (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a finer yarn, and much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly, and the tension here aligns Bracken more towards being an Aran yarn rather than a DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for Dress

Skirt sections

Work panel as given for skirt above from ** to **.
[51 / 53 / 57 / 59 sts]

Work 9 / 9 / 7 / 13 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 10th row.
[47 / 49 / 53 / 55 sts]

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 16½ / 17 / 17½ / 18 inches down centre, ending with 4th pattern row, and increasing 1 stitch in the centre of this row for the 2nd and 4th sizes only.
[47 / 50 / 53 / 56 sts]

Break off B yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make another 3 panel sections the same, and number each panel 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Bodice back:

To make the bodice, arrange the stitches from the skirt panels as follows:—
Slip the first 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 and the last 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 on stitch holders.
With No 8 (4mm) needles, and right side facing, using D yarn knit the remaining 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 1, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 2, then knit remaining 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 3.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

*** Continue working back and forth in stocking stitch on these 94 / 100 / 106 / 112 stitches for the back, starting with a purl row and work 3 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 25 / 27 / 29 // 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, k2tog, k1 , k2togtbl, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29.
[78 / 84 / 90 / 96 sts]
Work 15 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitches and knitting into back of it, k1, increase 1 as before, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 34 / 36 / 38 / 40, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work straight until bodice measures 12½ / 12½ / 12 / 12 inches from start.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain. ***

Work a few rows straight until bodice measures 15½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.
Here divide for back opening: -
Next row: knit 33 / 35 / 37 / 39.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue straight on these 33 / 35 / 37 / 39 stitches for first side until bodice measures 19½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Purl back.
Leave the remaining 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side of back.

Bodice front:

With No 8 needles and right side facing, using D yarn, work as follows:—
knit 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 from the stitch holder, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 4, then knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 from the stitch holder.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work as for Bodice back from *** to ***.
66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain.
Continue straight on these stitches until bodice front measures 17½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:-
Next row: knit 26 / 27 / 28 / 29.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue on these 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
[18 / 19 / 20 / 21 sts]
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, slip centre 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing, and using the set of No 10 needles, or circular needle, work in D yarn as follows:—
Knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from left side of back, increasing 2 stitches evenly; pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of front, knit 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches from centre front increasing 4 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 16 stitches up right side of front, knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from right side of back increasing 2 stitches evenly across.
[84 / 88 / 92 / 96 sts]

Arranging the stitches evenly on 3 needles, or using circular needle, work backwards and forwards in garter stitch (every row knitted) for 3 rows.
Next row: knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8, k2tog, * knit 10 / 10 / 11 / 11, k2tog; repeat from to last 5 / 7 / 6 / 8 stitches, knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8.
[77 / 81 / 85 / 89 sts]

Work a further 3 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Armbands: With right side facing, and using No 10 needles, work in D yarn as follows:—
Pick up and knit 76 / 76 / 84 / 84 stitches round each armhole.
Work 6 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Join side seams and armbands with a flat seam.
Insert zip into back opening allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams.

Materials

12 / 13 / 14 / 15 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")
6 / 7 / 7 / 8 x 1oz balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles or a circular needle.

A 5 inch zip fastener for back of dress.
[Editor's note: probably better to check the measurement once the bodice is completed.]

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 36 / 36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for woman's jacket

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 122 / 128 / 136 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on the middle size only. [122 / 129 / 136 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change to No 6 needles and repeat from 1st to 34th rows inclusive once, then 1st to 24th rows inclusive once.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. ***

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armholes by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work a further 6 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 6th rows.

Repeat the last 6 rows until 32 / 37 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

For the 2nd size: work 4 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and 3rd rows.

For the 3rd size: work 8 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and then alternate rows.

For all sizes: cast off the remaining 32 / 33 / 34 stitches, firmly.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 / 80 stitches, and work exactly as for back to ***.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, work in rib to end.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
** Work a further 6 rows decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 6th rows.
Repeat the last 6 rows until 46 / 51 / 57 stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

SHAPE NECK:
For the 1st size continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off.

For the 2nd and 3rd sizes: continue decreasing as before but at each end of the needle until 31 / 21 stitches remain.
Now continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 10 / 14 stitches remain.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off. **

Right Front

Work exactly as for left front to the start of the armhole shaping, then work one more row in rib to end with the wrong side facing.

Now shape the armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
Work as for the left front from ** to **.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 40 / 40 / 42 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 5 / 5 / 10 stitches evenly across on the last row. [45 / 45 / 52 sts]

Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 2 / 2 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 89 / 91 / 98 stitches. Then continue straight until the 28th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape armhole exactly as for back until 43 / 43 / 48 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 9 / 5 / 6 stitches remain. Cast off.

Front Borders

Left: With No 7 needles, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows until border fits up edge of left front to the start of the neck shaping when slightly stretched.
Cast off evenly in rib. Sew in position.

Right: Work a similar strip for the right front, with the addition of 8 buttonholes; the first to come in the 5th and 6th rows up from the lower edge, and the 8th just below the start of the neck shaping, and the remaining 6 spaced evenly in between.
First mark the position of the buttons with pins on the left border to ensure even spacing and work the buttonholes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 4, cat off 3, rib 4; rib back, casting on 3 over those cast off.

When border is finished, cast off evenly in rib, and sew in position.

Collar

With No 7 needles, cast on 139 / 141 / 145 stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib as given for left front border, until collar measures 4 inches. Cast off 24 / 25 / 27 stitches at he beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join raglan, side and sleeve seams, matching patterns carefully.
Sew collar in position, placing ends to centre of front borders.
Press seams as above.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
14 / 14 / 15 x 2oz balls in snow white.

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

8 buttons.

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
35-36 / 37-38 / 39-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 / 25½ / 26 inches;
sleeve seam: 17 inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for man's zipped jacket

Note: instructions are given for 2 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 136 / 142 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across on the last row. [143 / 150 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change back to No 6 needles and continue in pattern until 3 complete patterns have been completed from the start.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 103 / 98 stitches remain. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 41 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: rib 21 / 28 and slip these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder, cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape as follows:
Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [27 / 27 sts]
Break yarn and leave these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the last 21 / 28 stitches; cast on 3, and rib to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Continue in pattern, casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 46 / 53 stitches, taking the cast on stitches into the pattern as they are made, and ending at the side edge.

Now continue in pattern over all stitches, until front matches back at side edge, ending with wrong side facing.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape raglan armhole:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 / 22 rows. [59 / 54 sts]
Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge at the beginning of every alternate row until 36 / 37 stitches remain, thus ending with right side facing.

Shape neck:

Next row: cast off 12 / 13, pattern to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. P2. Cast off.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: pattern 52 / 52 and slip the remaining 21 / 28 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 27 stitches remain, ending at the front edge.

Break yarn and leave these 27 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to last 21 / 28 stitches.
Next row: cast on 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [46 / 53 sts]. Break wool.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn at front edge, and continue in pattern over all stitches, and finish to correspond with right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 48 / 52 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 11 / 14 stitches evenly across on the last row. [59 / 66 sts]

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 6 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 109 / 110 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Then continue straight until the 34th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 18 rows. [65 / 66 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5 / 6 stitches remain, ending with right side facing. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Collar

Join raglan seams, matching patterns.
With No 7 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 28 stitches round right side of neck, knit the 5 / 6 sleeve stitches, knit 41 /42 from
back increasing 8/5 stitches evenly across as you go, knit 5/6 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 28 stitches round left side of neck.
[115 / 115 sts.]

Next row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more

Next row (increases): rib 4, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it; rib to last 4 stitches, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it, rib 4.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Repeat the last 4 rows until the collar is 5 inches deep at the centre back, taking the increased stitches into the rib pattern.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Linings an Borders

Linings: With No 6 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 32 stitches along top slope of each pocket and work 4 inches in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off.
Borders: With No 7 needles, pick up and knit 34 stitches along lower slope of each pocket and work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib,
Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join side and sleeve seams matching patterns.
Catch down pocket linings and borders to main work.
Work a row of double crochet (US = single crochet) along the edge of each front.
Insert zip fastener into front opening, allowing crochet edging to
meet over zip to conceal it.
Press all seams as before.

Materials

Aran yarn:
18 / 19 x 2oz balls in in gendarme blue

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

A zip fastener (double-ended - suitable for a jacket).
[Editor's note: no length is suggested for the zip, and probably better to measure, or monitor the length as you make the jacket.]

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
39-40 / 41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 27½ / 27½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18½ / 18½ inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for Tunic

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 121 / 121 / 127 stitches, and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Break off W.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [130 / 130 / 136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [121 / 121 / 127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 9 needles and work 42 / 46 / 50 rows straight in stocking stitch in main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 8 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 9 needles and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, in W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 9 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [111 / 111 / 117 sts].

When the neck shapings are complete, work 34 / 38 / 42 rows straight in stocking stitch using W, starting with a knit row.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 8 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

Ribbed Border

Front: with right side facing, using W wool and No 9 needles, pick up and knit 114 / 120 / 126 stitches evenly along the lower edge.
Work 10 / 14 / 10 rows in k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.
Work the back ribbed border in the same way.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth, avoiding the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.

Turn with 1 chain, and work a further 3 rows dc, turning with 1 chain
at the end of every row.
Fasten off.

Join the left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armholes: Measure 6¼ / 6¾ / 7¼ inches from the top of the shoulder down the side edge on the back and front, and mark with pins.
With right side facing, W wool and crochet hook, work a row of dc between the pins. Work a further 3 rows dc, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row. Fasten off.
Work the other armhole in the same way.

Join side and border seams; press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
2 / 2 / 2 oz in each of green (G) and red (R);
1 / 2 / 2 oz in blue (B);
1 / 1 / 1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

23sts and 31 rows to four inches on 3¾mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
33-34 / 35-36 / 37-38 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: green
R: red
B: blue
Y: yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for Poncho

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 127 stitches, and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 7 needles and work 26 rows straight in stocking stitch using main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 6 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 7 needles and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, using W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 7 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [117 sts].
Break off B.

When the neck shapings are complete, work 18 rows straight in stocking stitch using W.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 6 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth.

Neck edging front: with right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.
Turn with 1 chain.
Work a 2nd row of dc.
Fasten off.
Neck edging back: work as for front.

In the same way, neaten the side edgings by working a row of dc down the right side of the front, along the lower edge, and up the other side; turn with one chain, and work a 2nd row.
Fasten off.

Work a crochet edging on the back in the same way.

Join shoulder seams.
Press seams and edgings.

Make ties: with 3 strands of W, or contrast yarn, make 4 lengths of crochet chain, about 20 inches long. Sew one length to each side of front and back, about 3½ inches in from the side and 10 inches up from the lower edge.
Tie as shown in the photo.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
10 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
3 oz in green (G);
2 oz in tangerine (R);
2 oz in blue (B);
1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 6 (5mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

20sts and 25 rows to four inches on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width across front measured flat:
22 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: lime green
R: tangerine
B: royal blue
Y: sun yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a blend of wool and acrylic, making it so-called "light weight", though it's an Aran or worsted weight yarn.
A cotton blend might be pleasanter for the beach.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.