Home

Weblog

Knitalong

Pattern of
the Month

On the Needles
(...and Off the Needles)

Stitchcraft

Vintage
Patterns

About the
Idle Hands


January 2018

Shetland folklore tunic

ShetlandFolkTunic.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn tunic in a double knitting weight yarn.

Although this pattern is from the seventies, it evokes a much earlier era to me. I remember my friend Sara having a cardigan just like this, (in colour and pom-poms), knitted by her Mother in the 1960s. I have had cardigan envy ever since. However - I am sure a tunic would suit me even better!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the yoke pattern from the chart, strand yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 241 [249, 257, 265] stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): (k1, p1) 23 times; k1, p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch with a coloured thread); p2togtbl, k1; (p1, k1) 68 [72, 76, 80] times; p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch as before); p2togtbl, k1; (p1. k1) 23 times.
2nd row: * p1, k1; rep from * to within 2 stitches of first marked st; sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to within 2 stitches of 2nd marked stitch, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to end.
Keeping continuity of rib, continue to decrease in this way working in stripes of a further 2 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D.

Next row: In D, cast off 38 stitches evenly in rib; in M, p9 [11, 12, 13] (including stitch on needle after cast off), p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 32 [34, 36, 38] times, p10 [10, 11, 12]; then in D, cast off remaining stitches in rib. [84 [90, 96, 102] sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and with M, work in stocking stitch starting with a knit row until back measures 6 inches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: Cast on 8, knit these stitches, knit to end, cast on 8. [100, 106, 112, 118].
Continue on these stitches and work 11 rows.

Shape sides as follows:
Next row: k9, k2togtbl, knit to last 11 stitches, k2tog, k9.
Work 11 rows.
Repeat the decrease row once more. [100, 102, 108, 114 sts].
Work straight until Back measures 17 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
‡‡

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more. [90, 94, 98, 102 sts].

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 86 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 0 [2, 4, 6] times more. [92 sts].

Shape neck by working short rows as follows:
1st row: k2tog, k28, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
2nd row: Cast off 8, purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.
4th row: Cast off 7, purl to end.
5th row: k2tog, knit to end.
6th row: Cast off 5, purl to end. [7 sts].

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following alternate row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows. [2 sts].
Next row: p2tog and fasten off.
Leave centre 32 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, and with
right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and M, cast on 42 [44, 46, 48] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib and stripes of 4 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D. [12 rows]

Continue in M until rib measures 3 inches, increasing across last row as follows : (rib 2, m1) 7 times; (rib 1, m1) 16 [18, 20, 22] times; (rib 2, m1) 5 times; rib 2. [70, 74, 78, 82 sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work straight until sleeve measures 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches measured at centre, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.

Repeat the last 4 rows 1 [2, 3, 4] times more. [64 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row. [60 sts]
Work 1 row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke

With right side facing, slip first 43 stitches of back on a length of yarn.

With circular or set of No 8 (4 mm) needles and M, knit the remaining 43 stitches from back, marking first of these stitches as the start of the rounds; knit 60 from sleeve, knit up 31 down left side of neck, knit 32 from front, knit up 31 up right side of neck, knit 60 from second sleeve, then finally knit 43 from length of yarn (or stitch holder). [300 sts]

Divide these stitches evenly on 3 of the set of needles.

Joining in D and L as required work the 50 rounds from the chart, repeating the 20 pattern stitches 15 times in each round and decreasing where indicated.
Work all rounds knit, reading chart from right to left.

On completion of the above rounds the number of stitches remaining will be:
17th round: 270 stitches.
21st round: 240 stitches.
31st round: 210 stitches.
35th round: 180 stitches.
45th round: 150 stitches.
49th round: 120 stitches.

Next round: in M, decrease 8 [8, 4, 4] stitches evenly. [112, 112, 116, 116 sts]

Make holes as follows:
Next round: In M, yfwd, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Work 1 round.
Break M.

Change to set of No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and in L, work 3 rounds.
Work holes as before for picot edging.
Work 2 rounds.
Cast off loosely.

Making Up

Omitting cuffs, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Use 30 inch lengths of yarn and a large sewing needle for make up, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.
Join armhole and sleeve seams.
Using a flat seam, sew side borders neatly in position catching border edges to cast-on stitches.
Join side seams to within 5½ inches of lower edge.
Fold picot hem at row of holes to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

In M, make 2 pompons.

Make Cord: Using 6 strands of M, make a twisted cord 45 in long. Thread through row of holes at neck. Sew a pompon to each end of cord.

Materials

6 [7, 7, 8] 50g balls Shetland DK in main shade (M) "Ocean Deep", plus 1 ball each in 2 contrasts:
"Heatherette" (D) and
"Snow White" (L)

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Sets of 4 each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or circulars.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97] cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 26 [26½,
27, 27½] inches, (66 [67, 69, 70] cm);
sleeve seam: 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches, (47 [47, 48, 48] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker than that but the tension given here suggests slightly thinner!

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2017

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningPlane1.jpg

A jolly little waistcoat for the lucky 3 year old who is having a new toy engine or or aeroplane.
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the various motifs.

How far away those days seem - or actually "are"! Even in my era - as attested by James May in Top Toys - boys (not girls of course!) were fixated by rockets and action men - though Airfix was as popular as ever.
Nonetheless - a "jolly little waistcoat" - for retro 3 years olds and their retro parents.

Instructions:

The waistcoat is worked in one piece and in one size - stated as a 3 year old but remembering that children tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s. As usual, you could probably increase the size successfully by using a heavier wool and larger needles.

Back and Fronts in one

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 145 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib - rows on the right side having k1 and each end.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work in pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 24 pattern stitches 6 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Carry MS wool across on each row but join in lengths of appropriate shades (or use bobbins) for each motif: work the required number of stitches for the motif colour, drop wool, then pick it up again on the return row.

Work the 52 rows once, then, continuing to work motifs from the chart, and with right side facing, divide for armholes thus:

Next row: pattern 36, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern on these 33 stitches for the right front, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 6 rows. [27 sts]

Work straight in pattern to the end of the 34th row of the chart.

With right side facing, continue in MS only, shaping neck by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at the neck edge on the next 5 rows.
Next row: Knit.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (armhole edge).

With right side facing, join wool to the remaining stitches.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 70, turn and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 67.

Continue on these 67 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 rows.

Work straight to end of the 34th row of the chart.

Change to MS only and work 8 rows straight, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

With right side facing, join wool to last 36 stitches, armhole edge, and cast off 3, pattern to end, then work to correspond with right front.

Ribbed Front Borders

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 11 stitches and working in k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end, make a strip to go up the right front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along and leave the stitches on a safety pin at the top.

Make a similar strip for left front with the addition of 7 buttonholes, the first to come in the 3rd and 4th rows from the bottom edge, and the 7th about 1 inch from the top (allowing for 8th to be worked in the neckband later), and the remaining 5 at equal intervals.
Mark the position of the buttons with pins on right front to ensure even spacing then work holes to match.

To make a buttonhole:
Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end and then back, casting on 3 over those stitches cast off.

Neck Border

Join shoulder seams.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), rib the 11 stitches from the right front border, pick up and knit 43 stitches all round the neck, then rib the remaining 11 stitches from the left front border. [65 sts]

Work ½ inch in k1/p1 rib making the 8th buttonhole after ¼ inch has been done. Cast off in rib.

Armhole Borders

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), pick up and knit 89 stitches round each armhole.
Work ½ inch k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

2 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade and 1 oz each in emerald and scarlet.
Oddments or small balls in brown and royal blue (see photo at the end).

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

32 sts to 4 inches on No 10 (3¼mm) needles over Fair Isle pattern.

Size matters

One size - width all round under arm 22 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 12 inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningPlane2.jpg

November 2017

Irish Knot Wrap

IrishKnotWrap.jpg

Splendidly cosy knee-length wrap in Irish Knot stitch with garter stitch borders forming a soft shawl collar.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Make knot (MK) in pattern as follows:
(k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) loosely all in the next stitch; then with point of left-hand needle, pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches on the right-hand needle over the first stitch one at a time.

Back

With No 9 needles cast on 98 [104 : 110: 116 : 122] stitches.
1st row: p2, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: k2, (pbl, k2) to end.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 18 stitches and
leave on a spare needle.
With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 98 [103 : 107 : 111 : 119] stitches.

Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: k8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1]
4th row: p6 [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1 , increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
7th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3]stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
8th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
9th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1;* k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
10th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1 , kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
11th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * (k1, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5[2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Back measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles, and keeping continuity of pattern, work Pocket Linings as follows:
Next row: Cast on 18 stitches, knit across these 18 stitches, then in pattern to end, then kit across 18 stitches that you left on the
spare needle earlier (131 [139 : 143 : 147 : 155] sts).
Next row: p18, pattern to last 18 stitches, p18.
Next row: k18, pattern to last 18 stitches, k18.

Repeat the last 2 rows 13 times more, then the first of these 2 rows again, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: Cast off 18 stitches, pattern to last 18 stitches, cast off remaining stitches. Break yarn.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and continue in pattern until Back measures 21½ inches (55 cm).

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles and continue in pattern until Back measures 26½ inches (67 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes, by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until 71 [73 : 77 : 81 : 83] stitches remain.
Work straight until Back measures 35 [35½ : 36 : 36¼ : 36¾] inches, (89 [90 : 91: 92: 93] cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches at the beginning of the
following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 31 [33 : 35 : 37 : 39] stitches.

Left front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, p6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
3rd row: k10 [5 : 5 : 5 : 10]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1].
4th row: p6, [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
5th row: k9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
7th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
8th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] , kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
9th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
10th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
11th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Cast off 5 stitches, pattern to end.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts)
Work 29 rows in pattern.

Next row: Cast on 5 stitches, pattern across these stitches, pattern to end. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern until 32 rows less than on Back have been worked before start of armhole shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape front slope as follows:

1st size: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row, and then at the same edge on every following 3rd row until 44 stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sizes: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next, and every following alternate row until - [54, 54, 56, 60] stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at the front edge
on every following 3rd row until - [48, 49, 51, 55] stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

All sizes: Work 1 row, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape armhole by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row: Work 2tog, pattern to end.

Decrease 1 stitch at armhole edge on next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows, then on he following 2 [3 : 3 : 3 : 4] alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 28 [28 : 29 : 31 : 31] stitches remain.

Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge only on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 20 [20 : 21 : 22 : 22] stitches remain.
Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches.

Right front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 5 stitches and leave on a spare needle.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]., * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 18 [13 : 13 : 13 : 18] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11].
2nd row: p9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: 8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5] stitches, k5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5].
4th row: p8, [3 : 3 : 3 : 8]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, k6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
6th row: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
7th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] .
8th row
: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
9th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7].
10th row
: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
11th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, k7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
12th row
: p7 [2, 2, 2, 7], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Pattern to last 5 stitches; cast off these 5 stitches.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts). Break yarn,

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and work 29 rows in pattern.
Next row: Pattern to end, then pattern across 5 stitches from spare needle. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern and complete to correspond with the Left Front, reversing shapings and changing needles as required.

Sleeves

With No 4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 53 [53, 57, 61, 61] stitches, and work 7 rows garter stitch (every row: sl1k, knit to end).
Next row: k2 [2, 4, 3, 3]; * m1, k7 [7, 7, 8, 8]; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 2, 2] stitches, m1, knit to end.
(61 [61, 65, 69, 69] sts).

Now work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing),: k6 [6, 8, 10, 10]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 13 [13, 15, 17, 17] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, K6 [6, 8, 10, 10].
2nd row: p4 [4, 6, 8, 8], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
3rd row: k5 [5, 7, 9, 9]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 0 [0, 2, 4, 4] stitches, k0 [0, 2, 4, 4].
4th row: p3 [3, 5, 7, 7]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1 ; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
5th row : K4 [4, 6, 8, 8]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
6th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
7th row: k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1, * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
8th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
9th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
10th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
11th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
12th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 18th [14th, 18th, 18th, 12th] row until there are 69 [71, 73, 77, 81] stitches, taking increase stitches into the pattern.
Work straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 17 [17 : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] inches, (43 [43, 44, 44, 44] cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2
rows, then decrease 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row until 31 [31 : 31 : 35 : 39] stitches remain.

Now decrease as before at each end of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
See special make up note on first page of text.
Join shoulder seams. Join side seams, leaving opening for pockets.

Pocket Borders: With right side facing and No 4 (6 mm) needles, knit up 23 stitches evenly along side edge of front between cast-off and cast-on stitches.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch (every row sl1k, knit to end).
Cast off.
Join side edges of border to cast-off and cast-on stitches.
Lightly stitch Pocket Linings in position on wrong side of fronts.

Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Left Front Border and Collar:
With No 4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in garter stitch (every row sl1k, knit to end, noting that first row is wrong side) until Border, when slightly stretched, fits up Left Front to start of front slope shaping, ending with right side facing for next row. Sew in position as you go along.

Shape Collar by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 6th row until there are 21 stitches.
Work straight until Collar fits up left side of neck and round to centre back of neck, ending with right side facing.
Sew in position as you go along.
Cast off loosely.

Right Front Border and Collar:
Work as for Left Front Border and Collar, reversing shapings.
Join Collar at centre back of neck.
Press seams.

Materials

25 [25 : 27 : 28 : 29]
50g skeins in a chunky yarn.

A pair each of Nos
4 (6mm), 3 (6½mm), and 2 (7mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 4 (6mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 5 sizes to fit chest:
32 [34 : 36 : 38 : 40] inches, (81 [86 : 91: 97 : 102] cm);
length from top of shoulders: 35 [35½ : 36 : 36¼ : 36¾] inches, (89 [90 : 91: 92: 93] cm);
and sleeve seam:
17 [17 : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] inches, (43 [43 : 44 : 44 : 44] cm).

Abbreviations

MK: make knot.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
kb or pb: knit or purl into back of stitch.
tbl: through back loop
sl: slip
sl1k: slip 1 stitch knitwise.

 

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a Patons Husky Chunky yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

IrishKnotWrapbw.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

Helpful Stuff

Recent Entries

Pattern Archive

Categories

Yarn Links

Fabric etc

Stuff to do

  • Little rabbits
  • Bayerische sock
  • V&A 1940s Patterns
  • Darlek Toy
  • Cashmere Cowl
  • Monkey Socks
  • Necktie Bag
  • Posh Gloves
  • Criss-cross coasters
  • Yesterknits
    (free patterns)


You've been counted...