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October 2022

Knitted trouser suit

SixtiesTrouserSuit.jpg

Having spent years making tongue-in-cheek comments about knitted trousers, I find they seemed to become a kind of pandemic fashion item - safely out of site during Zoom meetings. I'm not sure the fashion was really for anything like hand-knitted trousers; however, sitting (unobserved!) in my poorly-insulated chilly office at the top of the house, cosy woollen trousers are taking on some kind of appeal.
Even if the trousers don't appeal, there is a rather nice matching low-belted long-line cable sweater - very much of the period.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 94 (106, 116) stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 7 (5, 10), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 7; repeat from * to last 7 (5, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 6 (4, 9).
[105 (119, 129) sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4; repeat from * once, p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times, k5 (4, 1).
2nd row: p30 (37, 42); * k4, p4, k4, p21; repeat from * once, p9 (16, 21).
3rd row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
4th row: work as for 2nd row.
5th row: work as for 1st row.
6th row: work as for 2nd row.
7th row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
8th row: work as for 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 16 inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 81 (89, 99) stitches remain.

* Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern 20 (22, 25), including the stitch used in casting off. Turn, leaving the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: w2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, w2tog. Repeat the last 2 rows once.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

With wrong side of work facing, join in yarn at the neck edge and work to end.
Next row (wrong side facing): pattern 23 (26, 30) stitches, w2tog.
Turn, leaving the centre 31 (33, 35) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
W2tog at the neck edge on the next 3 rows.
Next row: Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to end.
Work 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from * to *.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 4½ (5, ) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:
Next row: Pattern 30 (33, 37) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending at armhole edge.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
Slip the centre 21 (23, 25) stitches on to a spare needle.
Join in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, pattern to end.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7½ (8, ) from the start of the armhole shaping, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 52 (54, 56) stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 5 (4, 7), * work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (8, 13); repeat from * to last 5 (5, 7) stitches; work twice into next stitch, rib 4 (4, 6). [60 stitches].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and rib pattern.
1st row (right side facing): p4, * k4, p4; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p4, k4, repeat from * to end.

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Increase and work into rib pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 12th (9th, 7th) row until there are 76 (82, 88) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16½ (17, 17½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58, 64) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 36 (42, 46) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 22 (24, 24) stitches remain.
Cast off.

Jumper Shoulder Edging

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for ¾ inch.

1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over cast off stitches in previous row.
Work 1¾ (2, ) inches in rib, measured from base of buttonhole.
Work another buttonhole.
Work ¾ (1, 1¼) inches in rib, measured from base of previous buttonhole and ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.
Work a second piece to match, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join right shoulder seam.
With right side of work facing and using No 10 needles, rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging with buttonholes; pick up and k13
stitches down left side of front neck; knit across the 21 (23, 25) stitches at centre front; pick up and knit 15 stitches up right side of front neck; 7 stitches down right side of back neck; knit across the 31
(33, 35) stitches at the centre back, pick up and knit 4 stitches up left side of back neck, then rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging without buttonholes. [113 (117, 121) sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: k1, * p 1, k1 , repeat from * end.

Continue in rib, making a third buttonhole 1¾ (2, ) inches from base of previous buttonhole.
Change to No 11 needles and work a further ½ inch in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Jumper Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 36 (38, 40) inches, ending with a wrong side row. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following
alternate row until 3 stitches remain.
Knit 3 together, and fasten off.

Belt Tabs (Make 4):

Using No 10 needles, cast on 7 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p 1, * k 1, p 1, repeat from to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 ½ inches, ending with a wrong side row. Cast off in rib.

Making Up Jumper

Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Stitch Shoulder Edgings to left shoulder with a flat stitch.
Sew in sleeves, overlapping Shoulder Edging.
Sew on buttons.
Stitch belt tabs into position as shown in photograph.
Sew buckle to straight edge of belt.
Slot belt through tabs.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 25g balls.

Jumper:
22 (24, 26)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 10 (3¼mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

3 buttons.
1 buckle.

Trousers:
23 (25, 28)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

6 inch zip.
Elastic to fit waist.
1 trouser clip.

Tension

22 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch

Size matters

Jumper: to fit chest 30-31, (34-35, 37-38)
actual measurement
32 (36, 39) inches; length: 32 (36, 39) inches; sleeve seam: 16½ (17, 17½) inches.

Trousers: to fit hips 32-33 (35-36, 38-39) inches;
inside leg seam:
28 (28, 28) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
w2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
sl3F: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at front of work.
sl3B: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at back of work.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
sl1K: slip the next knitwise.
sl1P: slip the next purlwise.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting, 100% superwash wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Trousers Right Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k53 (57, 61); p2, k9, p2; k55 (59, 63).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k53 (57, 61); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k55 (59, 63).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k53 (57, 61); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k55 (59, 63).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 44 (48, 52), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 64 (68, 72), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Next row: k2tog, work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 45 (49, 53), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: Work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 43 (47, 51), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26), [k2tog] twice, work 35 (37, 39), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 77 (85, 93), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 17 (19, 21), k2tog, work to end. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work 15 (17, 19), k2tog, work 32 (34, 36), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 67 (71, 75), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Next row (wrong side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Left Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k55 (59, 63); p2, k9, p2; k53 (57, 61).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k55 (59, 63); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k53 (57, 61).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k55 (59, 63); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k53 (57, 61).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 49 (53, 57), m1, work to end. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 53 (57, 61), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 55 (59, 63), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 56 (60, 64), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 59 (63, 67), m1, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work 35 (37, 39), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 20 (20, 20), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 56 (60, 64), k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 32 (34, 36), k2tog, work 15 (17, 19), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 15 (19, 23), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row (right side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Waistband

Using backstitch, join front and inside leg seams.
With right side of work facing, and using No 10 (3¼mm) needles pick up and knit 160 (176, 192) stitches evenly around waistband from centre back seam to centre back seam.
Commencing with a purl row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Next row: Knit (this row marks the fold line).
Commencing with a knit row, work a further 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off fairly loosely.

Making Up Trousers

Sew in zip to centre back seam, placing top of zip in line with base of waistband, then join
remainder of seam.
Turn waist and ankle hems onto wrong side and slip stitch down.
Thread elastic through waistband and secure at each end.
Sew trouser clip to waistband.

September 2022

Pop Socks

PopSocks.jpg

These socks are made using 2 needles, with one main colour and 4 contrasts. Of course, you can have as many contrasts as you like, and it would be good for using up lots of bright leftovers yarns; however it's always good to have a consistent main colour to tie it all together.
Alternatively you could easily substitute a suitably cheerful self-striping yarn either for the contrast stripes, or used plain throughout, allowing it to do its thing.
whatever you choose, complete the look with clogs*.
Just the thing to jazz up your jeans. Make them with or without toes — and the brighter the better!

* note: if you knit separate toes, it might be a bit overcrowded in clogs...

Instructions.

The socks are worked on two needles.

Right Leg

**

Using No 11 needles and colour A, cast on 80 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): p1, * k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2 inches (5cm) from the start, ending with a wrong side row.

Join in colour B. Beginning with a knit row, continue in stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl), working in striped sequence of 4 rows B, 2 rows A, 4 rows C, 2 rows A, 4 rows D, 2 rows A, 4 rows E and 2 rows A throughout.
Continue in pattern until work measures 5 inches (12½cm) from the start, ending with a purl row.

Shape leg:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches k2tog, k1.

Keeping striped sequence correct. Continue in this way, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 60 stitches remain.
Continue without shaping until work measures 13½ inches (34½ cm)
from the start, or required length, ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for heel and instep

With right side of work facing, slip the first 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the heel.
Keeping the striped sequence correct, knit the next 30 stitches for the instep; turn; slip the last 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the other side of the heel.

Instep

Work 6½ inches (16½cm) in the striped sequence for the instep, ending with 2 rows in colour A (wrong side row).

Editor's note: Now you need to decide if you want "normal" socks, or socks with separate toes - useful for bar-toe sandals! - and if you are knitting toes then you leave the stitches on a stitch holder at this point while you continue to knit the heel.

Shape instep top without toes ("normal" sock)

Next row: Using colour A throughout, k1,sl1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Next row: purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Version including toes

Break off yarn and leave the stitches on a holder while you continue with the instructions to shape the heel.

Shape heel

Editor's note: heel shaping instructions for both versions of sock, with or without toes.

Slip the 30 stitches you previously left on holders on to the needle, placing the outside edges together in the middle.
Editor's note: you have curled the edges of the sock round to form a tube shape - but you continue to knit the heel just on these 30 stitches, back and forth using 2 needles.

Using colour A and with right side of work facing, shape the heel, working short rows as follows:

1st row (right side facing): sl1 knitwise, k28. Turn.
2nd row: sl1 purlwise, p27. Turn.
3rd row: sl1 knitwise, k26. Turn.
4th row: sl1 purlwise, p25. Turn.

Continue in this way, working one stitch less on every row until you have worked the row: "sl1 purlwise, p13. Turn." has been completed, leaving 8 stitches unworked at each side.

Next row: sl1 knitwise, k13. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and knit it together with the next stitch. Turn.
Next row: sl1 purlwise, p14. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and purl it together with the next stitch. Turn.

Continue working one more stitch on every row until you have picked up all the stitches and there are 30 stitches.
Matching the striped sequence with that on the instep, knit the sole by continuing in stocking stitch without shaping until the sole measures the same as the instep.

Shape sole top without toes ("normal" sock)

Shape the top by working exactly the same as for the instep shaping.

**

Version including toes

Having completed the heel, return to the instep stitches that you left on a holder.

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across instep stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the sole. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Using A throughout, and working on these 24 stitches, work 16 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Second toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour B, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the big toe. K5 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using B throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 14 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Third toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour C, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the second toe.
K5 stitches, turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using C throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the third toe shaping as given for second toe.

Fourth toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour D, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the third toe. K4 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p13, turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [15 sts]

Using D throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog all across the row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Little toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour E, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the fourth toe. Knit to end. Turn.
Next row: purl to end. [15 sts]

Using E throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the little toe shaping as given for the fourth toe.


Left Leg

Work as for right leg from ** to **.
This completes the version without separate toes.

Version including toes

Set the position of the toes for the left foot as follows:

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across the sole stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the instep. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Complete the big, second, third, fourth, and little toes, as given for the right leg.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly under a damp cloth with
a warm iron.
Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).
Sew in all ends.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 4 ply yarn in main shade (A) and 1 ball in each of 4 contrast colours (B, C, D, and E).

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
Stitch holders.

Tension

30 sts x 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit and "average" adult foot: 9/9½ inches (23/24cm). Length from top of heel: 13½ inches (34½ cm).

Abbreviations

sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a superwash 4ply. These days there is a huge choice of wool for socks, but I would recommend some nylon content.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2022

Roll up for a string shopper

StringBag.jpg

Fun to make, this was a common type of reusable shopping bag before the days of the ubiquitous little nylon fold-up bags. It easily rolls up to keep in a handbag or purse, and is more useful than ever now in eliminating single-use plastics.

Instructions.

The bag can be made in either of 2 sizes. Both designs are worked from the same instructions and the figures in brackets [ ] refer to the smaller bag where applicable.
[Editor's note: So the size difference is just the difference in tension from reducing the thread thickness and size of hook.]

Base - first section:

Using 1¾mm [1¼mm] hook make 5 chain and join with a ss to the first ch to form ring.
1st round: 3ch, (counts as first treble), 13tr into circle. Join with a slip stitch into 3rd of first 3ch. {14tr}
2nd round: ss into space before next tr, 3ch, (counts as first treble), 1tr into same place as ss, * 2tr into next stitch, repeat from * to end.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
3rd round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as ss (called increase 1) * 1tr into each of the next 3 sps, 2tr into next sp (called increase 1), repeat from * omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss into 3rd of 3ch.
4th - 6th rounds: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1tr into each sp to within next increase, 2tr into next increase, repeat from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
7th round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1tr into each of next 3 sps, increase in next sp, rep from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss into 3rd of first 3ch.
8th - 9th rounds: As 4th.
10th round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1tr into each of next 13 sps, increase over next increase, repeat from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss to 3rd of 3ch. Fasten off.

Base - second section:

Using 1¾mm [1¼mm] hook, rejoin yarn through elastic band, 3ch to form first tr, work 48 tr over band.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
2nd round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1 tr into each of next 6 sps, increase in next sp, repeat from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss into 3rd of 3ch.
3rd - 6th rounds: As 7th - 10th rounds of the first section.
Do not fasten off.

Main section

1st round: Place both sections together and join by working through both sections at the same time, 1dc into sp before next tr, * 1dc into each of next 2 sps, 9ch, 1dc into each of next 4 sps, 9ch, 1dc into next sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 9ch and 1dc at the end of the last repeat, 3ch, 1trtr into first dc.
2nd round: 3ch, 2tr into the loop just made, * 7ch, 3tr into next loop, repeat from * to end, ending with 3ch, 1dtr into 3rd of first 3ch.
Repeat the last round 28 times more.

Top band

1st round: 4dc into loop just made, * 4ch, 4dc into next loop, repeat from * ending with 4ch, ss into first dc.
2nd round: 3ch, 1tr into each of the next 3dc, * 4tr into next sp, 1tr into each of next 4dc, repeat from * to end, omitting 4tr at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
3rd round: 3ch, 1tr into each tr.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
4th round: As 3rd.
5th round: 1dc into same place as ss, 1dc into each tr.
Join with a ss to first dc.
Fasten off.

Handle (make 2)

Using 1¾mm [1¼mm] hook, make 9ch.
1st row: Into 2nd ch from hook work 1dc, 1dc into each ch to end.
Turn.
2nd row: 3ch (counts as first tr), miss first dc, 1tr into each dc to end.
Turn.
3rd row: 1ch, 1dc into each tr to end.
Turn.
Repeat the last 2 rows 33 times more.
Do not turn at end of last row.
Work 1 row dc all round handle.
Join with a ss to first dc.

To make up

Damp and pin out to size.
Leave to dry.
Sew handles to top band on WS.

Materials

Large bag: 4 x 20g balls No 10 crochet cotton.
A 1¾ mm crochet hook.

Small bag: 2 x 25g balls No 20 crochet cotton.
A 1¼ mm crochet hook.

Elastic band or shirring elastic in a circle.

Tension

Large bag: 8sts and 4 rows to 1 inch over trebles worked on 1¾ mm crochet hook.

Small bag: 11sts and 5 rows to 1 inch over trebles worked on 1¼ mm crochet hook.

Size matters

Large bag: will carry 15lb (7 kilo)

Small bag: will carry 6½lb (3 kilo)

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
dtr: double treble
trtr: triple treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

Nos 10 and 20 crochet cotton are fairly standard and easy to obtain.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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