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December 2018

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningSoldiers1.jpg

If your 5-year-old is getting a box of soldiers then make him this amusing matching jersey
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the soldier motifs.

Suitable for all 5 year olds who aren't expecting an iphone, (and who like to play out of season cricket).

Instructions:

The jersey is worked in one size - stated as a 5 year old but remembering that children now tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid blue) cast on 84 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 85 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and changing from the main mid-blue wool to the pale blue as the background colour for the motifs, work the soldier pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

When 20 rows have been completed, change back to the mid-blue main shade and work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 8 inches.

Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of he next 2 rows. Then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 65 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 13¼ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until the first 2 rows of the armhole shaping have been done. [75 sts]

Now divide for the neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 35, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then keeping the armhole edge straight, and at the same time, decreasing at the neck edge on every following 3rd row until 24 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, armhole edge.

Join the wool to the remaining stitches, at the neck edge; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first half, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid-blue) cast on 48 stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 49 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work the 20 rows from the chart as for the back.

When these are done, change back to the main mid-blue wool and continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 63 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve measures 10½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and mid-blue main shade, pick up and knit 48 stitches down left front, 1 stitch from centre, 48 stitches up right front, and 18 stitches across back of neck.

Work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib; decreasing 1 stitch either side of centre front stitch on alternate rows.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.

Materials

3 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade (mid blue) and 1 oz in paler blue. Small balls in red and navy for the soldier motifs.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

30 sts and 38 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

One size - width all round chest 25 ins.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½ ins.
Sleeve seam: 10½ inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningSoldiers2.jpg

November 2018

Party tops

EveningTops1.jpg

Another "summer" top, which I always thought would be eminently suited to a winter cocktails evening, (and clearly they did too, as it is additionally shown in a black-tie setting). It's made in a fingering 2ply or laceweight yarn, with a stitch that forms "bubbles", which each have a sequin or bead sewn at the centre.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size only.

Backand Front alike

With No 12 (2½mm) needles cast on 108 stitches and work 4 inches k2/p2 rib.

Change to pattern thus:
[Editor's note: note that this pattern seems to include every possible way to describe putting the wool over the needle to make a lace pattern hole. The differences are just in the technique you have to use to get the wool wrapped round the needle.]

1st row (right side facing): * wrn, p2tog, won, k1, wfd, k1, wfd, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd - 6th rows: as 2nd row.
7th row: * wrn, p2tog, won, k1, (wfd, k1) 3 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * wrn, p2tog, p8, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
9th row: * wrn, p2tog, k8, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
10th row: as 8th row.
11th row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, (wfd, k1) 4 times, k2, wfd, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
12th row: * wrn, p2tog, p12, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
13th row: * wrn, p2tog, k12, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
14th row: as 12th row.
15th row: as 13th row.
16th row: as 12th row.
17th row: as 13th row.
18th row: as 12th row.
19th row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, (k3tog) 4 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
20th row: * wrn, (p2tog) 3 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
21st row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
22nd row: * wrn, p2tog, p2, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.

Rows 1-22 inclusive form the pattern.

Repeat these 22 pattern rows 3 times more.
Now continue repeating only the second pattern row while you divide for the neck thus:

Next row (right side facing): pattern 26. Turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge fairly loosely on the next 5 rows.

With right side facing, shape shoulder: by casting off 3 stitches loosely at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, at the same time, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row, 6 times.

Return to the remaining stitches; cast off the centre 56 stitches loosely, then work on last 26 stitches to correspond with the first shoulder.

Making Up

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams, then join sides leaving 7 inches open from shoulder seams for armholes.

Neck edging: With right side facing, work 2 rows of double crochet (American single crochet) all round the neck, then work picot edge thus:

* 4 chain, 1 dc in first of these 4 chain, 2dc in next 2 dc; repeat from * all round; fasten off.

Sew 1 sequin or bead in the centre of each stocking-stitch bubble, as shown in photograph, using a matching sewing cotton (you must sew on each sequin separately), then sew sequins about inch apart all round dc of neck.

Press seams.

Altering the size

It would be feasible to increase the size by knitting in a thicker yarn - but you do need to make a swatch and do some arithmetic.
Even changing to a 4 ply with 3¼mm needles could change your chest size from a modest 34 to over 40 inches.

All those "wool overs"

won: "wool over needle" - bring the wool over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.
(Used when you have just completed a purl stitch, but do not take the wool to the back of the work, before knitting the next stitch - the wool passes over the needle as you knit the next stitch).
wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle forming the pattern hole.
(Used when you have just completed a knit stitch, and you are purling the next stitch; you wind the wool once around the needle instead of simply bringing the wool to the back of the work).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
(Used when you have just completed a knit stitch, and you are knitting the next stitch).

Now you know everything.....

Materials

4 ozs Fingering 2 ply.

A pair of No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2½mm) needles.

No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook

Packets of sequins or beads.

Tension

34 sts x 42 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-35 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

won: "wool over needle".
wrn: "wool round needle".
wfd: "wool forward".

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

EveningTops2.jpg

October 2018

Prima Donna

OperaCoat.jpg

"....prima donna opera coat - so boldly dramatic...."
I think this could be appropriate as an evening coat or for a wedding - but again, even though it looks very summery, it's 4ply crochet which, even in a cotton weight, could prove to be quite warm.

Instructions

The coat is worked in a number of repeated "patterns".

To make 1 pattern:
3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr

Motif Panel Pattern
(Worked over 6½ patterns)

1st row (wrong side facing): 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 4 patterns.
2nd row
: 4 patterns, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
3rd row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, (1 tr in next tr, 2 ch) twice, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns.
4th row
: 3 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, (1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp) twice, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
5th row
: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns.
6th row
: 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 11 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
7th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 11 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
8th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
9th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
10th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in each of next 5 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, (1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
11th row: (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 12 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 5 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
12th row: 1 pattern, 1 tr in each of next 9 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr.
13th row: 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr, in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 12 tr, 1 pattern.
14th row: 1 pattern, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 16 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
15th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 4 times, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 15 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 5 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern.
16th row: 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 5 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 19 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
17th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, (1 tr in next tr, 2 ch) twice, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch:, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 9 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
18th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
19th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
20th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
21st row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch, sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
22nd row: 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
23rd row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 5 tr, 1 tr in each of next 1 0 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
24th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 5 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
25th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
26th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
27th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
28th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
29th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
30th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.

These 30 rows form the panel pattern.

Back and Fronts
(worked in one piece to armhole)

Foundation row (wrong side facing): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each remaining ch. [385/385/409/409 sts]
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each remaining stitch. Repeat the last row once more.

Change to No 9 (3½ mm) hook and work as follows:
Foundation row (right side facing): 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, * 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in next stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in last stitch.
[31½/31½/33½/33½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end].

Place motif panel patterns as follows:
1st row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, work 1/1/2/2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr * , work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, 1 pattern, repeat from * to * once, work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.
2nd row: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * work 2nd row of motif panel pattern, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 1/1/2/2 patterns, work 2nd row of motif panel pattern, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * work 1 pattern, repeat from * to * once, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch.

Continue working thus until 30 rows of motif panel pattern have been worked.
Next row
: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 31/31/33/33 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.

1st, 2nd and 4th sizes:
Next row
: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 31 /31 /33 patterns, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch

4th size:
Next row
: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 33 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.

All sizes: Keeping continuity of pattern, shape as follows:
lst row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7½//8/8 patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 15½/15½/16½/16½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
2nd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7½//8/8 patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 15½/15½/16½/16½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
3rd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr * , pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
4th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over next 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
5th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
6th-9th rows
: in pattern.
10th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
11th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
12th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½//7/7 patterns, * 3 ch 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr *, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
13th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½//7/7 patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
14th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½//7/7 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
15th-18th rows
: in pattern.

Continue decreasing thus until 72/63/72/63 shaping rows have been worked:
15½/17½/17½/19½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end. 2nd and 4th sizes:
Next row
: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 4/patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over / patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 4/ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next stitch, pattern over / patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next stitch, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over /4 patterns, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in in next tr *, pattern over / patterns, repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
[15½/17½ patterns, plus ¾ pattern at each end]

Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over /4 patterns, (5 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over / patterns, (5 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over /4 patterns, (3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over / patterns, (3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.

These last 2 rows form the pattern.

All sizes: Continue straight in pattern until work measures 39/40/40/41 inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for right front as follows:
Next row
: pattern over 1/4 pattern, then pattern over 2¾/3/3/3 patterns, turn.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes:
Next row
: 8 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
Next row: in pattern, ending 3 ch, 1 dc in last ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in 3rd ch.

All sizes: Continue in pattern on these patterns for right front until work measures 5/6/6/6 inches from where work was divided, ending with right side facing.
Fasten off.

Shape neck as follows:
With right side facing leave ¼ pattern unworked, then leave next 1¼/// patterns unworked, rejoin yarn in next dc/tr/tr/tr and pattern to end. [1½ patterns]. Work a few rows straight until neck measures 2 inches.
Fasten off.

With right side facing, leave 2/2//3 patterns unworked from where work was turned, rejoin yarn in next 5 ch sp/tr/tr/tr, pattern over next 6/// patterns, turn. Continue on these patterns for back until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.
Fasten off.

With right side facing, leave 2/2//3 patterns unworked from where work was turned, rejoin yarn in next 5 ch sp/tr/tr/tr, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with right front reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With 2½ mm hook, make 98/98/110/110 ch.

Foundation row (wrong side facing): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each remaining ch.
[97/97/109/109 sts]

Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each remaining stitch. Repeat last row once more.

Change to No 3½ mm hook and pattern as follows:

Foundation row (right side facing): 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, * 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in next stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3 ch, 1 dc in last stitch. [7½/// patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end].

1st row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 7/7/8/8 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.
2nd row: 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 7/7/8/8 patterns, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch.
These 2 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until sleeve measures 18½ in.
Place a marker at each end of last row.

Continue in pattern until extra rows from marker fit along ½ the patterns left for armhole.
Fasten off.

Hood

Using 3½ mm hook, make 146 ch.
Foundation row (right side facing): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 5 ch, miss 5 ch, 1 tr in next ch, * 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 5 ch, miss 5 ch, 1 tr in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in last ch.
[11½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end.]

1st row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 11 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.
2nd row: 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 11 patterns, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

Shape back of hood as follows:
1st row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
2nd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
3rd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
4th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5 patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
5th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr , 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
6th and 7th rows: in pattern.
Continue decreasing thus, every 7 rows until 35 shaping rows have been worked.
[6½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end.]
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side.
Join shoulder seams, then join sleeve seams to markers.
Sew straight top edge of sleeves into armholes, then sew edges left free to base of armholes.

Front and Neck Border: With right side facing and 2½ mm hook, start at lower right front edge and work 1 row dc up right front, all round neck and down left front, increasing and decreasing at corners as required.
Turn and work a 2nd row, working 24 button loops on the right front - the first to come at the top of the front neck edge and the remainder at 1 inch intervals.
Fasten off.
To make a button loop: 2 ch, miss 2 dc.

Fold hood in half at top and join last row together.
With right side facing and using 2½ mm hook, work 2 rows dc round front edge of hood.
Stitch lower edge of hood on to neck as shown, gathering extra fullness in at back.

Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

10/11/12/13 x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe.

No 9 (3½mm) and No 12 (2½mm) hooks.

24 buttons.

Tension

1½ patterns and 8 rows to 3 inches.

Size matters

To fit chest:
32/34/36/38 inches,
length from top of shoulders: garment drops to a length of 51/52/53/54 inches when worn;
sleeve seam: 18½ inches all sizes.

Note: An allowance of 5 inches is given to allow for dropping when worn (4 inches at under arm, and 1 inch at armhole).

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
dtr: double treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool:

Original in Patons Limelight Crepe - knits as 4 ply, which was 100% courtelle (synthetic - so a good yardage); stated on Ravelry to be 216 yards to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

OperaCoat2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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