Instructions.
The pattern is written for one size only, and at 34 to 38 inches this
might be a bit of a limitation. It is designed to be oversized, so the
actual measurement should come out at about 41 inches if you achieve the
stated tension.
[Editor's note:
I can see why they would have had difficulty providing a sensible larger
size, as the lace pattern is repeated over 34 stitches - so if you added
another repeat it would increase the size by at least 12 inches. Having
said that, many oversize sweaters, both in the eighties and now, are designed
to be in excess of 50 inches as a supposed "one size", and it
would be a moderately feasible task to redraft the pattern, due to the
lack of shaping - if you had the appetite for it.]
Front
** With 4mm needles, cast on 88 stitches.
1st row: p1, k2, *
p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch,
p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, *
k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch,
k1.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows until work measures 8½ inches (21 cm),
ending with a 1st row.
Next row: p6, increase in the next
stitch, * p4, increase in the next
stitch; repeat from * to the last
6 stitches, p6. [104 sts].
Change to No 5½ mm needles and work in pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, *
k3, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, yon, k4,
sl1k, k1, psso, k3; repeat from *
to
last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, *
p2, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p1, yrn,
p4, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last
stitch, k1. 3rd row: k1, *
k1, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, k2,
yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k1; repeat from *
to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, *
p2togtbl, p4, yrn. p3, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p3, yrn, p4,
p2tog; repeat from * to last stitch,
k1.
5th - 12th rows: Repeat 1st to 4th
rows twice.
13th row: k1, *
yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1,
psso, k6, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from
* to last stitch, k1.
14th row: k1, *
yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p4, p2togtbl, p4,
yrn, p1, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from *
to last stitch, k1.
15th row: k1, *
yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k,
k1, psso, k2, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat
from * to last stitch, k1.
16th row: k1, *
yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2togtbl, p4, yrn,
p3, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from *
to last stitch, k1.
17th - 24th rows: Repeat 13th to
16th rows twice.
These 24 rows form the pattern. **
Continue in pattern until Front measures 30 inches (76 cm), ending with
right side facing for next row (measured with work hanging from needle
to allow for drop).
[Editor's note:
Calculating from the tension this should be about 108 rows in the pattern or 4½ pattern repeats.]
Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2,
pattern to end.
Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern
53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or
a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: Make a note of the pattern row number you are working
on when you knit this turning row..]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in
pattern until Front measures 38 inches (97cm), ending with right side
facing.
Cast off.
With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre
neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: I think they rather gloss over this instruction - you
need to have made a note of the row number on which you divided for the
neck so you can make sure you resume the pattern here on the correct row.]
Back
Work as for Front from ** to **.
Continue in pattern until Back measures 34 inches (86 cm), ending with
right side facing for next row.
Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2,
pattern to end.
Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern
53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or
a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: As you did for the Front, make a note of the pattern row
number you are working on when you knit this turning row.]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in
pattern until Back matches Front at side edge, ending with right side
facing.
Cast off.
With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre
neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: Having seen how you did it with the Front, you can resume
the pattern here on the correct row, using the note you made when you
divided the Back neck.]
Sleeves
With 4mm needles, cast on 36 stitches and work in rib as for Front for
4 inches (10cm), ending with a 1st row.
Next row: p1, *
increase in the next stitch; repeat from *
to the last stitch, p1. [70 sts]
Change to 5½mm needles, and work in pattern as for Front until
Sleeve measures 18 inches (46cm) down centre, ending with right side
facing.
Cast off.
To Make Up
Omitting ribbing, press lightly on wrong side following instructions
on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.
Placing centre of cast-off stitches of sleeves to shoulder seams, sew
sleeves in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.
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Materials
18 x 50g balls of Aran weight yarn yarn.
A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm), 5 (5½mm).
Tension
This design uses big needles so the tension is
20 stitches x 20 rows to 4 ins on No 5½mm needles over the pattern - different
from the usual Aran tension.
The original yarn knitted to a tension of 18 stitches x 24 rows to 4
inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.
Size matters
To fit chest: 34-38 inches; length: 38 inches;
and sleeve seam: 18 inches.
Abbreviations
M2: make 2 stitches by picking up the horizontal loop lying before
the next stitch and working into back and front of it.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward"
/ "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over
the needle.
sl1k: slip one stitch knitwise.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 stitches together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 stitches together.
tbl: through back loop(s).
sl: slip.
A word on the wool.
The original sweater was knitted in a Patons Capstan - a pure wool classic
Aran weight yarn.
Disclaimer
(well...almost)
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced,
in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please
and I will try and assist.
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