Pattern of the Month

Instructions

There are a couple of new stitches used in this pattern, as well as basic chain, dc, and treble. There is a "cluster" used in making the central flower, and crab stitch for the edging.

Make cluster:

Working all into the same stitch, **yoh, draw through loop **; repeat from ** to ** 4 times (9 loops on hook); yoh, draw loop through all loops on hook; yoh, draw loop through stitch on hook.
[Editor's note: This last stitch is just "1 chain".]

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right. It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

Motif (make 12)

Starting at the centre of the square: using 7mm hook and first contrast, (plum), make 6ch and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
2nd round: **1 cluster in first dc, 3ch; 1 cluster in next dc, 1ch **; repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first st.
Change to second contrast (cream).
3rd round: Insert hook in first 3-chain space and make 2 chain for first treble; **2tr in same space, 3ch; 3tr in same space, 1ch; 3tr in next 1-chain space, 1ch; 1tr in next 3-chain space, ** repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, omitting the very last tr in the repeated sequence, and join with a slip stitch to top of first chains.
Change to third contrast (lime).
4th round: 1 dc **1dc over each of next 3tr, 3dc into next 3-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space;**. Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.

Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

To Make Up

Make 12 squares altogether.

With 7mm hook and 3rd contrast (lime), join 2 squares together; hold right sides together and slip stitch through the back loop of each dc, leaving the front loops exposed as a decorative ridge on the right side (see photos).
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant here, try experimenting. There is a loop on each side of a crochet stitch; usually when placing a stitch on top on the next row, you push your hook through both loops, but for some decorative sts, you are asked to use either only the back or only the front loops in order to create a ridge, Whatever you end up doing, just make sure you are consistent, so that you get a nice consistent pattern emerging.]

Join 3 squares in a row, then join the 4 rows together.

Finally, using first contrast (plum) and right side facing, work a row of dc all around the blanket, and work 2 or 3sts into the 4 corner sts, to make it curve properly. Then, keeping the right side facing you, change to a 6mm hook and go back the way you came, working one row of crab stitch right to left.

Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch - a picture painting a thousand words and so on.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of chunky in each of first and second contrast and 1 ball in third contrast.

One No 2 (7mm) and one No 4 (6mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each square is intended to measure 4¾ inches.

Size matters

To fit cot, pram, or Moses basket.

Abbreviations

yoh: yarn over hook.
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original yarn produces a tension of 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch. You can substitute an Aran weight yarn worked double throughout, though this is less easy to work with for crochet patterns.

I used Patons Pompero a chunky yarn, knitting to a tension of 16sts x 22 rows to 4 ins, which is thinner, though I used a 7mm hook with it.

Result of my yarn choice is a smaller blanket, requiring only one ball in each colour.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The first section of these socks is knitted sideways making a "T" shape where the upright of the "T" is the upper foot, and the cross bar curls around the leg to form the cuff, meeting at the back seam.
The second section knits the heel and then sole of the sock. These two sections are worked on 2 needles.
Then for the toe, you pick up the stitches from the first 2 sections, and knit in the round on 4 needles, and finally you pick up stitches at the top of the sock and knit the welt, also in the round.

First section (knit 2)

Starting at the back leg seam, with main shade (M) cast on 23 sts on 2 needles and knit one row. Commence pattern.

Join in contrasts (C1, C2 etc):
1st row: Using C1, p3 * sl1, p3; repeat from * to end of row
2nd row: Using C1, k3 * sl1, k3; repeat from * to end of row
3rd row: As first row.
4th row: As second row.
5th row: Using main shade (M) purl across all sts.
6th row: Using C2, k1, sl1, * k3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
7th row: Using C2, p1, sl1, * p3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
8th row: As 6th row.
9th row: As 7th row.
10th row: Using main shade (M) knit across all sts.

Repeat rows 1-10 using different contrasts, once more.

Next row(wrong side facing): Cast on 40 sts, and then work across them and all sts, as for 1st row of pattern. [63sts]
[Editor's note: If you want a shorter or longer foot length cast on more or fewer stitches here. Reduce or add sts in multiples of 4, which is about ¾ of an inch]

Continue to work the pattern on these 63 sts, working rows 1-10 three times, and then rows 1-4.

Next row(wrong side facing): Using main shade, cast off 40 sts, and purl across remainder. [23sts]

Continue to work the pattern on these 23 sts, working rows 6-10, then rows 1-10 once, times, and then rows 1-4.
Cast off purlwise using main shade (centre back seam).

Second section (heel and sole).

The remainder of the socks are worked entirely in the main shade.

For the heel: with right side of the first section facing, oriented like an upside down "T" pick up 11 sts from each side of the instep:

Pick up and knit 11 sts from the left side first, ending at the cast on edge (which will be the centre back, and then turn the work over and bend round the second side, and pick up 11sts from the right side. The sock cuff now forms a circle with the back seams together, but not yet sewn.

Turn and purl 1 row across these 22 sts.

Next row(right side facing): * Sl1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more.

Turn the heel:

Next row: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.

Continue to work short rows and decrease in this way until all sts have been incorporated. [14sts].

Next row(right side facing): Sl1, k13, pick up and knit 13 sts down side of heel. Turn.
Next row: P27, pick up and purl 13 sts down other side of heel. Turn.

Now work the instep decreases and sole:

Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1. Turn.
Next row: Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 22 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you want to make the sock for a narrower foot circumference then decrease a few more sts here. About 6 sts for an inch.]

Continue to work a further 50 rows to make the sole - upper and lower foot sections should be about the same length.
[Editor's note: if you altered the sock length by casting on more of fewer than 40 sts, then adjust the number of rows you knit here. For every 4 sts different in the first section, allow 5 rows difference in the sole.]

Toe

Now we move to working in the round.

Knit 11 sts on first double-pointed needle, 11sts on second, then with right side facing, using third needle, pick up and knit 24 sts across the toe edge of the first section.
Complete the round, knitting 11 sts from first needle then 11 sts from second. Knit one more round.

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1. Complete the round by knitting the 11 sts on each of the first and second needles. [44 sts]

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1; on first needle, k1, sl1, k1 psso; knit to end; on second needle, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16sts remain.
Slip the sts from the second needle on to the first and graft the sts together with those on the third needle.

Making up

Sew seams on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Using double pointed needles and main shade, pick up 60-66 sts round top of sock and knit a k3/p3 rib for about 8 rows (or as long as you want), to form the welt. Cast off loosely.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of double knitting yarn, and a variety of left over DK colours.

One pair and one set of four No 8 (4mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

22 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (olive).
C are contrasts.

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used Phildar Oxygene in olive for the main colour, and a 4 other colours for the contrast - you could have every colour change (15 colours) different if you wanted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The Back and Fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Back and Fronts:

Using No. 10 (3¼mm) needles and light colour, cast on 146 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ ins.
Next row (wrong side): Rib 9; (increase in next stitch, rib 15) 8 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [155 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl
3rd row: K39, m1, k1, m1, k75, m1, kl, m1, k39.
4th row: Purl
5th and 6th rows: As 1st and 2nd
7th row: K40, m1, k1, m1, k77, m1, k1, m1, k40.
8th row: Purl
9th and 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd
11th row: K41, m1, k1, m1, k79, m1, k1, m1, k41.
12th row: Purl
13th and 14th rows: As 1st and 2nd

Continue increasing in this manner on next and every following 4th row until there are 183 sts.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 11½ ins, from beginning, finishing at end of a knit row.

Next row: P7, (increase in next stitch p12) 13 times, increase in next stitch, purlto end. [197 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 from Chart (odd rows knit, even rows purl), working bracketed repeat 7 times across row and odd stitch at end of
knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on Chart throughout.

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (17th row of chart): Pattern 44 cast, off 10, pattern 88 (there now being 89 sts. on needle after cast-off); cast off 10, pattern to end.
[Editors note: So you have 3 groups of sts on the needle - 44 then 89 then 44]

Proceed on first group of 44 sts. for first front as follows:

Keeping pattern correct by working rows 18 to 30 inclusive of Chart, shape armhole by decreasing 1 st. at armhole edge on next and every alternate row until 39 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows, thus completing pattern from Chart.

Using darker colour for remainder of front, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5 ins, from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at front edge.

Shape neck: by casting off 4 sts. at beg. of next row.
Decrease 1 st. at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 30 sts. remain.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 7 ins, from beg. of armhole shaping, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next and every alt, row until all sts. are cast off.

Rejoin wool to next group of 89 sts. and proceed for Back as follows:

Keeping pattern correct from Chart, shape armholes by decreasing 1 st at both ends of next and every alternate row until 81sts remain. Continue on these sts. until work matches first front up to shoulder shaping.
Shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next 6 rows.
Cast off all remaining sts.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of 44 sts. and complete to match first front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No. 10 needles and Light, cast on 50 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 inches.
Next row: Rib 5; (increase in the next stitch, rib 9) 4 times; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [55 sts]

Change to No. 7 needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 st. at both ends of 5th and every following 9th row until there are 73 sts.
Continue on these sts until work measures 15½ ins, from beginning finishing at the end of a knit row.

Next row: P3; (increase in the next stitch, p5) 11times; increase in the next stitch; purl to end. [85 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 inclusive from the chart, noting that bracketed repeat is worked 3 times across row, and odd st. at end of knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on chart throughout.

Keeping pattern correct from chart until 30th row of chart has been completed, and working remainder of sleeve in dark colour, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 43 sts remain, and then on every alternate row until 33 sts remain, and then on every following 3rd row until 29 sts remain.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Right Front Band:

Using No. 10 needles and light colour, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: K2; (p1, kl) 4 times; kl.
2nd row: (kl, p1) 5 times; kl.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row (make buttonhole): Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
6th row: Rib 4, cast on 3, rib to end.

Continue in rib working a buttonhole as on 5th and 6th rows on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole until 5 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Break off light colour and join in dark.
Still working buttonholes on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole as before, continue in Dark until 7 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Work 16 more rows.
Slip stitches on to a stitch holder.

Left Front Band:

Omitting buttonholes, work to match Right Front Band.

Neckband:

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulders of Back and Fronts.
Slip stitches from top of Right Front Band on to No 10 needle, with right side of work facing, using dark colour, k2, (p1, kl) 4 times, p1 across these sts., using same needle, knit up 71 sts round neck, slip sts. from top of Left Front Band on to No 10 needle, (p1, k1) 5 times across these sts, kl. [93 sts]

Next row: * k1, p1, rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: k2, * p1, kl, repeat, from * to last stitch kl.

Work 3 more rows in rib.
Make buttonhole on next 2 rows.
Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting k1/p1 rib, with wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges.
Omitting k1/p1 rib, press each piece very lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

"In order to preserve the lovely crepe appearance of Totem fabrics, these must be pressed very lightly as over-pressing will spoil the appearance of the finished fabric."

Using a flat seam for k1/p1 rib, and a back-stitch seam for remainder, join sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position. Flat stitch front bands into position.
Attach buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

12 oz in light colour and 6 oz in dark colour in double knitting yarn.

[Editors note: 1oz = 28g.
See "a word on the wool".]

Two No 10 (3¼mm) and two No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

21sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 34-36 inch bust. Length from shoulder to lower edge, 21¼ ins. Sleeve seam, 18 ins.

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
m1p: make one st by picking up loop between sts and purl into back of it.
kb: knit into back of stitch
pb: purl into back of stitch
tog: together
tbl: through back loops
inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch
dec:decrease by working 2 sts. together

"Stranding" in Fair Isle

In working designs using two or more colours, you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
Do not strand colours over more than 5 sts. When a loose thread must pass over more than 5 sts. weave it over and under the colour in use at centre point of the sts. it passes over.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem, or Moorland which are
double knitting, yarns. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

12oz is about 7 x 50g balls and 6oz is about 4 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in a small size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

This pattern uses 3 familiar stitch types:

Double Rib: repeated sequence of k2, p2 rib.
Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row.
Fair-isle stocking stitch, following the chart.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 86 / 90 / 94 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and stocking stitch, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [101/ 105/ 109 sts]. Continue joining in contrast (R) for dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as per the lower section of chart.
When work measures approximately 16¾ inches, change to No 6 (5mm) needles and beg the fair-isle motifs. When work measures 18 inches, shape the armholes by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When the fair-isle motif is complete, change back to No 7 needles and continue in dotted fair-isle until work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 8 at the beginning of the next 2 rows (all sizes).

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes), knit 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn leaving the remaining sts unworked but still on the needle to pick up in a moment, .
Purl back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts.

Return to the sts still on the needle for the neck and left side. Place the centre 43 sts on a stitch holder for the back neck, and then rejoin yarn to the remaining sts and knit 1 row.

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes) purlwise, purl 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn, knit back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts purlwise.

Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 90 / 94 / 98 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as for the back, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [105/ 109 / 113 sts].
Change to No 6 (5mm) needles when you work the fair-isle motifs just as you did on the back section.

When work measures 18 inches (same as back to armhole), shape the armholes by casting off 8 / 9 / 10 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When work measures 25½ / 26 / 26½ inches, shape neck:
leave centre 23 sts on spare needle and continue each side separately, casting off at neck edge on every alternate row as follows: 3 sts (once), 2 sts (twice) and 1 st (3 times) [23 / 24 / 25 sts].

When work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches, work shoulder shaping as you did for the back, casting off at armhole edge on every alternate row as follows: 8 sts (twice), 7 / 8 / 9 sts (once).

Sleeves:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 54 / 58 / 62 sts work 3½ inches in double rib.

Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle, increasing 17 sts evenly across first row [71 / 75 / 79 sts].

Increase 1 st at each end of every 8th row 9 times, [89 / 93 / 97 sts]. When work measures approximately 11½ / 12½ / 13½ inches, . (11 change to No 6 needles and work the fair-isle motifs.

Cast off when you have completed the second border pattern, before you start the dotted fair-isle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

Stitch one shoulder seam. Using No 9 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 98 / 102 / 106 sts evenly round neck. Work 1¼ inches in double rib.
Cast off.

Stitch second shoulder seam and neck border seam.

Sew in sleeves.

Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Materials

13/14/15 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 4/5/6 balls contrast colour (red)/

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

18½sts and 21 rows to 4 ins using No 7 needles over dotted fair-isle stocking stitch (lower section of chart).

Size matters

The sweater has instructions for 3 sizes, which are intended to be for men or women as follows: man's to fit chest: 40/42/44 inches; woman's to fit: 34/36/38 inches (size 12/14/16 UK size).

Actual size seems to be 43/45½/47 inches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Pingouin Monsieur, or Sport yarn.

It was a synthetic Aran-type yarn knitting to a tension of 17sts and 23 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Legwarmers

The legwarmers are worked in rib throughout.

Instructions

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade, cast on 62sts, and work in double rib for 4¾ inches.
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue until work measures 16½ inches.
Change back to No 11 needles and contrast colour, and work a further 2 inches.

Cast off loosely.

[Editor's note: You are working from the ankle upwards; you cast on for the bottom of the item and cast off at the top, so it needs to be loose.]

Stitch the seam using a flat seam technique.

Work a second legwarmer in the same way.

Materials

4 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 1 ball contrast colour (red)

Pair each No 11 (3mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

Instructions

T-shaped chunky sweater with simple snowflake pattern worked from the charts.

Back and Front alike:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 47 / 51 / 55 / 59 / 63 / 65 / 71 / 73 / 77 sts and work in K1/P1 rib for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row (wrong side): Rib 3 / 3 / 5 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6; m1; * rib 8 / 9 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 11 / 12 / 9 / 13; m1; repeat from * to last 4 / 3 / 5 / 5 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 5 / 6 sts; rib to end. [53 / 57 / 61 / 65 / 69 / 71 / 77 / 81 / 83 sts].

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until work measures 13½ / 14½ / 16 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 17½ / 18½ / 19½ inches, ending with a purl row.

1st to 3rd size: Join in contrast colour and work 2 rows.

All sizes:
Next row: Using main shade, knit.
Next row: Using main shade, purl 2 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3, ml; * purl 7 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 9 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 7, ml; rep from * to last 2 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 sts, purl to end. [61 / 65 / 69 / 73 / 77 / 81 / 87 / 91 / 95 sts]

1st to 3rd size: Work rows 1 to 24 from chart A, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 times across and working the first 0 / 2 / 4 sts and last 1 / 3 / 5 sts on knit rows and first 1 / 3 / 5 sts and last 0 / 2 / 4 sts on purl rows as indicated.

4th to 9th size: Work rows 1 to 36 from chart B, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 times across and working first 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts and last 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts on knit rows and first 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts and last 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts on purl rows as indicated.

All sizes: Break main shade, and complete in contrast.

Next 2 rows: Knit.

Next row: K3 / 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 5 / 4 / 2 / 4, k2tog, * k2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 / 2 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 5 / 3 / 6 sts, knit to end. [47 / 49 / 53 / 55 / 61 / 63 / 67 / 69 / 73 sts]

Next row: Knit

Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade cast on 25 / 27 / 27 / 29 / 29 / 31 / 31 / 33 / 33 sts and work in rib as on body sections for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by inc 1 stitch at each end of 3rd / 3rd / next / 7th / next / 5th / 3rd / 9th / 5th and every following 4th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 4th / 4th / 4th row until there are 51 / 51 / 55 / 55 / 59 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 69 sts.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins, ending with a purl row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting garter stitch and ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

When making up a chunky garment it may be easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing.
If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 30 inch lengths and a large needle, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join shoulder seams leaving 7 / 7½ / 8 / 9 / 9½ / 9½ / 10 / 10½ / 10½ ins open at centre for neck opening.
Join side seams leaving 7 / 7 / 7½ / 7½ / 8 / 8 / 9 / 9 / 9½ inches free for armholes.
Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

8 / 8 / 9 / 11 / 11 / 13 / 13 / 14 / 14 x 50g balls in main shade and 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 balls contrast colour.

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 inches; (66 / 71 / 76 / 81 / 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107 cm).
Length from top of shoulders: 20½ / 21½ / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 26½ / 27½ / 28½ ins; (52 / 54 / 58 / 61 / 63 / 66 / 67 / 70 / 72 cm).
Sleeve seam, 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins; (36 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 48 / 48 / 49 / 51 / 51 cm).

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which was a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.

A good substitute in texture and general ethos, might be Rowan's British sheep breeds chunky, which is specified as knitting to a tension of 13sts x 18 rows but on 7mm needles; it is available in a good range of monochrome colours which suit the fashion for the current take on fair-isle. Try a swatch with 6mm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The sleeves and yoke of this tunic are knitted from cuff to cuff and the back and front (knitted in the usual vertical manner) are sewn onto it at the armhole.

Back and Front alike.

Work 2 pieces as follows:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 65 [69 : 73 : 77] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit). Change to No 5 needles, and beginning with a knit row work 6 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Shaping:

Next row: K12 [13 : 13 : 14], k2tog tbl, knit to the last 14 [15 : 15 : 16]; k2tog; knit to end.
Work 17 rows in stocking stitch.
Rep the last 18 rows once more. 61 [65 : 69 : 73] sts.
Cont in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures 18½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Cast off.

Left Sleeve and Yoke

** Using No 8 needles and main shade (M), cast on 57 [61 : 61 : 65] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch. Break off M. Change to No 5 needles, and join in contrast colour (C). Beginning with a knit row continue in stocking stitch, until sleeve measures 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Place coloured marker at each end of last row.

Work a further 8 [8 : 10 : 10] rows in stocking stitch.

Shape shoulder:

Next row: K28 [30 : 30 : 32], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k28 [30 : 30 : 32]

Work 9 [9 : 11 : 11] rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: K29 [31 : 31 : 33], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k29 [31 : 31 : 33]. {61 [65 : 65 : 69] sts}

Work 13 [15 : 15 : 17] rows in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
**

Divide for neck:

Next row: K30 [32 : 32 : 34], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 15 [16 : 16 : 17] rows. Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining 21 [23 : 23 : 25] sts. Work a further 12 [12 : 12 : 14] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles, join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

Right Sleeve and Yoke

Work as given for left sleeve and yoke from ** to **.

Divide for neck:

Next row: K21 [23 : 23 : 25], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 11 [11 : 11 : 13] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles. Join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and work 16 [17 : 17 : 18] rows. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press the sleeve pieces very lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron on wrong side, omitting the 9 st borders. Join centre back yoke seam.

Neck border:
Using No 8 needles and M, with right side of work facing, beginning at the right front border, knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along right front, knit up one st from corner, (marking this stitch with coloured thread), knit across 10 sts from holder up right side, knit 18 [22 : 22 : 24] sts along back, knit across 10 sts from holder down left side, knit up one st from corner, (mark ing this stitch with coloured thread), then knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along left front. {58 [66 : 66 : 70] sts}
Work 4 rows in garter stitch, decreasing one stitch at each side of the marked sts on next and foil alternate row. {50 [58 : 58 : 62] sts}.

Hood:

Next row: K9 [12 : 12 : 12]; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; (m1, k1 [1 : 1 : 2]) 12 [2 : 2 : 10] times; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; m1; k9 [12 : 12 : 12]. {73 [77 : 77 : 79] sts}.

Change to No 5 needles.

1st row (right side): Knit to end.
2nd row: K4; purl to last 4 sts, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows until hood measures 11½ ins from beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: K4, slip these 4 sts on to a holder, cast off next 20 [21 : 21 : 22] sts; k25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts, (including stitch on needle); k4 and slip these 4 sts on to a holder.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to rem 25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts and beg with a purl row, cont in stocking stitch until side edge fits along cast off edge of hood to within 4 sts on holder. Cast off.

Sew cast off edges to side edge of centre piece.

Left border:
Using No 5 needles, and M, with wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to 4 sts on holder on left side of hood. Cont in g st until extra rows, when slightly stretched, fit across to centre of cast off sts at centre of hood.
Cast off.

Right border:
Work as given for left border.

Join borders and sew in position around hood.
Join side seams.
Join sleeve seams to markers.
Sew yoke edges to cast off edges of back and front.
Press seams.
Using M, make 2 twisted cords with a tassel at each end and sew in position to fasten at neck.

[Editor's note: I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

Materials

10 [11 : 11 : 12] x 50g balls Jaeger Catkin in main shade (M) and
8 [9 : 9 : 10] balls of contrast colour, (C)

[Editor's note: I have knitted the hood in the contrast yarn rather than as the instructions given here, where the hood is in the main shade. If you want to do this, it will alter the required amount of yarn.
Also, I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

A pair each of No 8 (4 mm) and No 5 (5½ mm) needles.

Tension

14 sts and 22 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inch bust.
Length to shoulder: 27 [27½ : 27½ : 28] inches.
Sleeve seam: 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches.

The figures in square brackets refer to the 34, 36 and 38 inch sizes respectively.

Abbreviations

m1: increase by picking up the loop lying before next st and knitting into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
k2tog tbl: (decrease) knit 2 sts together through back loops - also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

Jaeger Catkin was a lovely quality soft bouclé wool. There are a number of good choices for a substitute chunky bouclé these days, including options from Rowan. However, you might have to go with a single colour - which might be more sophisticated - unless you are into dying your own matching colour combination.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

You can see similar patterns - some with front pockets - in the vintage patterns section:

Sweater with hood and stripes

Pattern ID: Hayfield 1271

Mother and daughter tunics

Pattern ID: Hayfield 1241

Instructions.

Cast on 128 stitches and start working in garter stitch - knit 4 rows.

5th row: increase in first stitch, k62, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K62, increase in last stitch.
6th row and every alternate row up to row 13: Knit
7th row: increase in first stitch, k64, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K64, increase in last stitch.
9th row: increase in first stitch, k66, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.
11th row: increase in first stitch, k68, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K68, increase in last stitch.
13th row: increase in first stitch, k70, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.

Knit another 13 rows on these 148 stitches.
Now proceed in stocking stitch and shape by working short rows as follows:
27th row: K72, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
28th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn
29th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
30th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn

Repeat 29th and 30th rows 14 times, thus completing 58th row.

59th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40.
60th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39.
61st row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k38.
62nd row: P37, p2tog, p2togtbl, p37.
63rd row: K36, k2togtbl, k2tog, k36.
64th row: P35, p2tog, p2togtbl, p35.
65th row: K34, k2togtbl, k2tog, k34.
66th row: P33, p2tog, p2togtbl, p33.
67th row: K32, k2togtbl, k2tog, k32.
68th row: P31, p2tog, p2togtbl, p31.

Make slots for ribbon on next row thus:
Slot row: K1, (k2tog, wfd, k2) to last 3 sts, k2tog, wfd, k1.
Next row: Purl.
Break off wool.
Now work the points as follows:
With right side of work facing you slip the first 11 sts onto a piece of thread; join wool to next stitch, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining sts. on a spare needle, continue only on these 21 sts, as follows:

2nd row (first point): P1, (k1, p1) 10 times.

Continue in rib but decrease 1 stitch at each ent of the next row and every alternate row until 3 sts. remain.
Knit 3 together and fasten off.

With right side of work facing you. join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining 11 sts on the spare needle.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Join underfoot and back seam.

With right side of work facing you, join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle. (k1, p1) 5 times, then knit last stitch on spare needle together with first stitch on on the thread, after which (p1, k1) 5 times over remaining sts on thread.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Make another sock in the same way.

Run ribbon through slots at ankles.

Cuff Variation

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4ply
I used Cygnet 4ply colour 2041 (yellow)

A pair each of No
11 (3mm) needles.

A yard of narrow ribbon.
(I used a twisted cord of yarn).

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Foot length about 9 inches, length down back about 5 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
tbl: through back loops (also known as ssk).
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.

A word on the wool.

The original socks were knitted in "Wendy Family Wool 4ply". I chose to use Cygnet yarn not only because it is a good (75/25) blend for socks but also I wanted the lovely bright "Jester" yellow - and I was surprised that in the vast array of available yarns in my local John Lewis, I could not find any true yellows in any weight of wool - obviously not fashionable currently. The "brights" seem to be limited to cotton blends, which in my experience are not good for socks.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is a simple six-row pattern where you increase at the beginning and decrease at the end of every alternate row to create the diagonal effect. At the same time you alternate 3-row bands of stocking stitch and reverse sticking stitch.

Side

Cast on 20sts.
[Editor's note: I cast on in waste wool, and when I had completed the 12 patterns (see below) I grafted the sts together instead of seaming.]

1st row: Knit
2nd row: P2tog, purl to the last stitch, purl twice in the last stitch.
3rd row: Knit
4th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.
5th row: Purl
6th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 12 complete patterns have been worked from the start. Cast off.
[Editor's note: I did not cast off but grafted the sts to the cast on row by removing the waste wool and unpicking my first knit row, using this yarn tail to graft. This makes a perfect join.]

Brim

With right side facing, pick up and knit 72sts along one edge of the side piece - that is 3 sts to each knit and purl stripe.
[Editor's note: As I had already seamed the side piece into a tube shape, I used a circular needle to pick up the 72sts and knit the brim.]

Work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, and then cast off in rib.

Join side piece and brim neatly with a flat seam.
[Editor's note: If you have not already grafted the side together.....]

Press seam lightly.

Crown

Cast on 14sts, and work in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row (this is right side of work), and increasing at each end of the first and every alternate row until there are 28 sts.

Knit one row.

Then continue, decreasing at each end of next and every following alternate row until 14sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Pin crown in position to side of hat on wrong side, so that purl side of crown is on the outside. Back stitch in position very neatly on wrong side with a tailored seam
Press seam lightly on the right side using a damp cloth.

Fold ribbed brim in half to wrong side and slip stitch in position round lower edge.

Place on head.
Admire.

Wrap in Christmas paper. Put under tree.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 (2 oz) hanks Patons Big Ben Knitting in white.
Sample shown uses some handspun yarn.

A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Tension

12 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

A word on the wool.

Big Ben was quite a novelty bulky wool in its time. There were no substitutes short of knitting several strands of thinner yarn together to make the right tension (as I did with my handspun).
These days we have a number of bulky wools to try; the hat is fairly forgiving as the knit and purl stripes are stretchy like ribbing.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Handspun Yarn

I bought some Spelsau fleece at Woolfest in 2009; there was a workshop on knitting direct from the fleece but I intended to spin my sample. I made a 2 ply yarn which was softer than I had expected, but kempy (as I had not attempted to remove the coarser fibres). There was only a small amount - I did not measure the yardage, but I started with 100g, the yarn was chunky weight, and I knitted 2 strands of yarn together by combining it with an aran-weight handspun merino/silk blend to achive the bulky weight required. As you can see, the fleece was a lovely combination of natural grey tones.
The 100g sample was sufficient to knit the side and brim of the hat, but not the crown - I spun some of the coarser fibre from my Leicester Longwool fleece and combined that with the merino/silk as before to get the right yarn weight and drape, (quite a firm knitted fabric).

The description of the Spelsau fleece is as follows (taken from the reference above):

The Spaelsau is a direct ancestor to the Old Norwegian Sheep.They were tough sheep supplying their masters with meat, milk, wool, skin - even the sails that carried the ships over the oceans were made of their wool. Today, a thousand years later, the wool of the Spaelsau still consists of a rough cover to protect against the wind and the rain, and under this a much softer layer close to the skin as protection against the cold.
The rocky Norwegian west coast is Spaelsau country. On a few isolated isles among the skerries off the coast you still find Old Norwegian Sheep living wild.

Crochet abbreviations:

ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
dc =double crochet
tr = treble crochet
2 tr tog = two treble together - as follows:
Yarn round hook (yrh), insert hook in space and draw through a loop as you would for a normal treble - you have 3 loops on the hook;
yrh and draw through 2 loops continuing as for a normal treble - you have 2 loops on the hook.
Now it becomes a little different. You leave the 2 loops - do not finish the stitch but start a second treble: yrh, insert hook in next space and draw through a loop - you have 4 loops on the hook; yrh and draw through 2 loops - you have 3 loops on the hook; finish the stitch by yrh and draw through remaining 3 loops.
[Editor's note: This is a method of "decreasing" in crochet although that's not why we are doing it in this motif.]

Remember the above are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Editor's note: While writing this I found a simply excellent free form crochet site from James Walters which reflects his own work alongside Sylvia Cosh and has - among other things - some great crochet information. As the author states - the information was originally intended as worksheets for their students - however I found they do offer useful guidance (available in both what I will call "English" as well as "US English"!)

Instructions

Make 4 ch and join with a ss to make a ring.

1st round: 3ch; 11 tr into ring; ss to 3 ch.

2nd round: 3ch; 1 tr into same place as ss; * 2ch, 2tr into next tr, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch, ss to 3rd of 3ch.

3rd round: 3ch; 2tr into first 2ch space; * 2ch, 1tr into same space, work 2 tr tog (see abbreviations) with first leg in the same space and second leg in the next space, 1tr into same space, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch 1tr into same space, ss to 3rd of 3ch.
[Editor's note: I found this a bit confusing. see if this helps you: in one individual space, you start with the 2nd leg of a "2 tr tog" followed by 1 tr, 2ch, 1 tr, then the 1st leg of a "2 tr tog" - the 2nd leg moves you into the next space.]

4th round: * 1ch, 5tr in space, 1ch, 1dc into 2 tr tog, repeat from * to end, finishing with ss into ss of previous round.

Fasten off.

This completes your first motif.

Make 7 for the centre and then 48, 44, 44, and 46 in the other colours.

Here's a close-up picture of one of the motifs. Hopefully it will help you see how they should look.

Making up

Join 2 shells to each adjacent motif, using the following pattern as a guide to placement. It is a good idea to sew this together gradually as you go along - you can stop any time you feel it's big enough, leave the throw as a circular shape, or continue with the pattern to make a rectangle.

Sew in all ends.
Press lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron and a damp cloth.

Materials

4ply/Fingering yarn in 5 autumnal colours. You will need about 1 ball for the centre and about 8 balls for each of the other 4 colours.

One number 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

Tension

One motif measures about 4 inches in diameter.

Size matters

Approximately 52 by 60 inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Cables are worked as follows:

Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 7: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 6: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 5: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 4: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
Cable 3: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.

Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece.

Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P4, * k8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
2nd row: K4, * p8, k8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more.

9th row: P4, * cable8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
10th row: as 2nd row.
11th row: as 1st row.
12th row (decrease row): K4, * p8, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4. [271 sts]
13th row: P4, * k8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
14th row: K4, * p8, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.
15th and 16th rows: as 13th and 14th rows.
17th row: P4, * cable8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
18th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, p2tog, p3, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p3, k2tog, p3, k4. [253 sts]

Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

24th row (decrease row): K4, * p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts]
25th row: P4, * cable7, p6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, cable7, p4.

Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts]

Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4.

Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before.

Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end.

Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end.

Work a further 4 rows straight.

Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4.

Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib.

Cast off.

To work the buttonholes:
With crochet hook, work 3 rows of double crochet down left side of opening, then 3 rows down right side, making 8 small button loops in 3rd row. Fasten off.

Optional fringing:
Cut 2 strands of wool each 3 inches long, fold in half and knot through every alternate stitch of cast-on edge. Now take last 2 strands from one knot together with first 2 from next knot and knot these 4 together to form trellis fringe as shown in photograph. Trim fringe evenly. Sew on buttons. Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. **

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
[Editor's note: You can use a circular needle here but knit backwards and forwards.]
A cable needle.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
8 small buttons.

Tension

Original yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

One size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension.

Crochet

Double crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

(Make two gloves alike)

Cast on 36 stitches, arrange evenly over 3 needles.
Join in a round, and begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * K3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
Repeat round 1 three more times.

5th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [30sts]
6th round: * K1, yon, k1, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
7th and 8th rounds: as 1st.

Repeat rounds 5 through 8 four times more times.

21st round: as 5th.
22nd round (increase): * K1, yon, k1, p1, yon, k1,p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

23rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
24th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
25th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
26th round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]
Repeat rounds 23 through 26 three times more times.

39th round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times.
Then: k3, p1, k1. Using waste yarn, knit the last 2 sts of the round.
Slip these 2 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn.

40th round: Begin the next round continuing with the waste yarn, and k5. Slip these 5 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn. Then finish the round as follows: k1, yon, p1; * k3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [43sts]

41st round: Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2tog, k1, p1; * slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [36sts]

42nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

Repeat rounds 23 through 26 twice more. Cast off 42 sts (not too tightly).

Work the thumb.

Go back to the waste yarn and carefully remove it, placing the resulting live sts on two double-point needles; there will be 7
sts below the opening, that look like normal sts, and aim to get 8 sts above - ensure you pick up all the loops.

Now set off working in a round; starting with the 7 sts below the opening, arrange the sts as follows: Place the first 2 sts on a needle and leave for the end of the round.

Join in the yarn and using another needle, k3, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 7 lower sts and the first of the 8 upper sts), yon, then purl the second stitch from the upper needle. This is "needle one" and has 7 sts.
Using another needle, k1, k2tog, k1. This is "needle two" and has 3 sts.
Using another needle, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 8 upper sts and the first of the two sts you left for the end of the round), p1. This is "needle three" and has 4sts. [14 sts]

1st round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [12sts]
2nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [14 sts]
3rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
4th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
5th round: as 1st.
6th round: as 2nd.

Cast off 14 thumb sts loosely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

1 x 50g ball Rowan Kid Classic.

Small length of waste yarn in contrasting colour, (something slippery like cotton preferably).

One set of 4 No. 8 (4 mm) needles.

Tension

Kid Classic knits to a tension of 18sts and 24 rows to 4 inches on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

Abbreviations

yon: yarn over needle - makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

With No. 9 needles, cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.

1st round: * K4, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
2nd-4th rounds: As first round.
5th (cable) round: * C4B, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
6th round: As first round.

These are the six basic pattern rounds.

Repeat these six rounds twice more, (or as many times as you need to lengthen the sock at the ankle), and then the first round once again.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be longer in the leg, then add more rows here.]

Divide for heel flap.

Next Row: Knit the first 28 sts of the round on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 32 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete cables across the 32 instep sts, starting and ending with p2.

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across the remaining 27 sts. [28 sts].
Next round: * Slip1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat the last 2 rows 12 times more.

Turn the heel.

Work short rows as follows:

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across 15sts, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k5, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1 p6, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k7, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn

Continue working in this way until all the sts have been incorporated [16sts], ending with a knit row, and right side facing.

Continuing to work onto the same needle (needle 1), pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Slip all the instep sts on to one needle, and using a 2nd needle knit across instep sts, in the cable pattern, starting at the second row.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Knit the first 8 sts from Needle 1, and slip these on to the end of Needle 3. [78 sts].

[Editor's note: I am not one to encourage a sloppy attitude to knitting, but...
When you pick up sts down the side of the heel flap for this design of sock it is not essential that you pick up exactly the number stated - you do not even have to pick up the same number down each side of the flap - I often find that I have one more on one side than the other (this is due to the way I make the heel flaps which we won't dwell on here!). Whatever you pick up, you must decrease to the right number as you do the shape the instep - it's not the number of decreases but the final number of sts that is important.
I would say though, that whatever you do on the first sock, try and remember to repeat it on the second sock - that's best...]

Shape the instep:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit, following the 6-row cable pattern as set. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 60sts remain (14 on the first needle, 32 on the second needle, 14 on the third needle).

Continue on these sts, (continuing the cable pattern on the upper foot as set), until you have completed 12 cable patterns from the very beginning of the work, or until work measures 2 inches less than the desired foot length.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be smaller or larger, alter the length here.]

Shape toe:

Continue in stocking stitch only (no more cables), as follows: knit the sts from Needle 1, then knit the first st from Needle 2 and put it on Needle 1. Knit 30 sts from Needle 2, then place the last st onto Needle 3. Knit across 15 sts on Needle 3.

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end. [56sts]
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 32 sts remain, ending with 1st round.

Then repeat round 1 twice more [24 sts].

Making up.

Knit the sts from needle one, break the thread leaving a long tail.
Slip the sts from needles 1 and 3 onto one needle.

Graft the two sets of 12 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting,otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

About 1 x 50g skein (139 metres) Phildar Oxygene, colour 38, Neptune.
[Editor's note: If you lengthen the sock at the ankle you will need more wool.]

One set of 4 No. 9 (3½mm) double- pointed needles.

Tension

23 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 9 (3½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.

Abbreviations

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
This cable is ideal to work using the method without a cable needle.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Abbreviations

MB: make bobble by knitting into the front, back, front, back, front and back of next stitch, then pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sts over 1st stitch.
[Editor's note: I know - this sounds impossible - but it is achievable. This is how the bobbles are created in the original "Debbie Bliss Square"]

m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop between the sts and knitting into the back of it.

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

C4F: "cable 4 front"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

C6B: "cable 6 back"; slip the next 3sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.

T3B: "transpose 3 back"; slip the next (purl) st onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

T3F: "transpose 3 front"; slip the next 2 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

T4B: "transpose 4 back"; slip the next 2 (purl) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then p2 from cable needle.

T4F: "transpose 4 front"; slip the next 2 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, p2, then k2 from cable needle.

T5B: "transpose 5 back"; slip the next 2 (purl) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k3, then p2 from cable needle.

T5F: "transpose 5 front"; slip the next 3 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, p2, then k3 from cable needle.

k2tog = decrease a stitch by knitting 2 sts together.

Chain and Vines Square

This square begins and ends with a simple garter stitch border.
The following are the pattern rows used in this square:

Row 1 (right side): K6, p7, T3B, p7, C6B, p7, T3F, p7, k6.
Row 2 (wrong side): K13, p2, k8, p6, k8, p2, k13.
Row 3: K6, p6, T3B, p6, T5B, T5F, p6, T3F, p6, k6.
Row 4: K12, p2, k7, p3, k4, p3, k7, p2, k12.
Row 5: K6, p5, T3B, p5, T5B, p4, T5F, p5, T3F, p5, k6.
Row 6: K11, p2, k1, MB, k4, p3, k8, p3, k4, MB, k1, p2, k11.
Row 7: K6, p5, T3F, p5, k3, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; k3, p5, T3B, p5, k6.
Row 8: K12, p2, k5, p3, k8, p3, k5, p2, k12.
Row 9: K6, p6, T3F, p4, T5F, p4, T5B, p4, T3B, p6, k6.
Row 10: K13, p2, k6, p3, k4, p3, k6, p2, k13.
Row 11: K6, p7, T3F, p5, T5F, T5B, p5, T3B, p7, k6.
Row 12: K12, MB, k1, p2, k7, p6, k7, p2, k1, MB, k12.

Chain and Vines Square instructions:

Cast on 45 sts and knit 4 rows garter stitch (knit every row).
Next Row (increase row): K8; ( m1, k5) 7 times; k2. [52 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): work 10th row of the pattern.
Next Row: work 11th row of the pattern.
Next Row: work 12th row of the pattern.

Now work rows 1-12 four times, then rows 1 and 2 again.

Next Row (decrease row): K7; ( k2tog, k4) 7 times; k3. [47 sts]
Knit 4 more rows in garter stitch.

Cast off knitwise from the wrong side of the work.

Lattice Square:

This square begins and ends with a garter stitch bobble border, in the same design as the original Debbie Bliss Square.
The following are the pattern rows used in this square:

Row 1 (right side): K3, MB, k3; p7, k2, p8, C4B, p8, k2, p7; k3, MB, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): K14, p2, k8, p4, k8, p2, k14.
Row 3: K7, p7, T4F, p4, T4B, T4F, p4, T4B, p7, k7.
Row 4: K16; (p2, k4) 3 times; p2, k16.
Row 5: K7, p9, T4F, T4B, p4, T4F, T4B, p9, k7.
Row 6: K18, p4, k8, p4, k18.
Row 7: K3, MB, k3; p11, C4B, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; C4F, p11; k3, MB, k3.
Row 8: As row 6.
Row 9: K7, p9, T4B, T4F, p4, T4B, T4F, p9, k7.
Row 10: As row 4.
Row 11: K7, p7, T4B, p4, T4F, T4B, p4, T4F, p7, k7.
Row 12: As row 2.
Row 13: K7, p7, k2, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; C4B, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; k2, p7,k7.
Row 14: K14, p2, k8, p4, k8, p2, k14.

Lattice Square instructions:

Cast on 47 sts and knit 4 rows garter stitch (knit every row).
Next Row (right side): K3; (MB, k4) 8 times; MB, k3.
Knit 3 more rows in garter stitch.
Next Row (increase row): K11; ( m1, k6) 4 times; m1, k12. [52 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): work 2nd row of the pattern.

Now work the pattern rows as follows:

Rows 1-14: Work rows 1 to 14 inclusive.
Rows 15-38: Work rows 3 to 14 inclusive, twice.
Rows 39-48: Work rows 3 to 12 inclusive.
Rows 49: Work row 1.

Next Row (decrease row): K11; ( k2tog, k5) 4 times; k2tog, k11. [47 sts]
Knit 4 more rows in garter stitch.
Next Row (right side): K3; (MB, k4) 8 times; MB, k3.
Knit 2 more rows in garter stitch.

Cast off knitwise from the wrong side of the work.

Making up

Sew the squares together in 5 rows of 8 squares each, so the blanket measures approximately 40 inches by 64 inches.
Sew in all ends.
Work a crochet or knitted border around the whole thing - if you feel up to it after all that knitting!

Materials

One ball of double knitting yarn at about 100m or 108 yards in length makes about 2 squares.

Rowan are supporting this initiative but you are not compelled to use their wools - you are encouraged to use wool from your stash.

Size matters

8 inch squares making up a 40x64 inch blanket.

Tension

General DK tension: 22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch. or gauge to make the 8 inch square.

These bobble squares: 23 sts to 4 inches using 3¾mm needles.

A Word
on the Wool.

Unfortunately my "stash" is not overflowing with left-over double knitting wools of the right type to use for this project.

In the end I used some Phildar yarns that I had intended for another long-abandoned project. These yarns are robust and high quality - about 25% wool and superwash. Therefore - both warm and practical.

The yarn used for the bobble squares is Oxygene which is apparently "anti-bacterial" (!) - 25% wool, 35% chlorofibre, 40% acrylic - and knits to a tension of 23stsand 30 rows to 4 inches on 3½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern there is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Pattern inspirations for the squares

I used my squares in combination with the "Debbie Bliss Square" shown below.

My designs above are inspired by her other bobble pattern designs, which I have adapted to make a double knitting wool weight 8 inch patch for this blanket.
Every alternate square in my blanket is knitted plain. Above is (a section of) the completed blanket. I did a rather pleasing edging adapted from a stitch used as part of a sweater pattern.

Note that my "flag dishcloth" square (POM February 2007) could also be adapted to make an 8 inch square. Use a DK wool that knits to 22 or 23 sts to 4 inches. Use 3½mm needles and cast on 45 sts instead of 49, knitting a 3st garter stitch border instead of 5. Repeat the 10 row pattern 5 times in all, and knit a 6-8 row border to start and finish your square, making up the 8 inches in length.
You could knit other guernsey patterns for as a theme for different squares - like a sampler. But - remember to check your tension. Your squares need to be about 45 sts by 62 rows in st st.

Rather Pleasing Edging

The method for the basic stitch pattern is as follows, assuming using a combination of DK and extra-thick chunky type wool, and working back and forth across the rows on two needles:

Row 1 (right side): Using DK and suitable needles (eg 4mm), knit.
Row 2 (wrong side): Using DK, purl.
Row 3 (right side): Using chunky contrast, change to large needles, (eg 7mm or more), slip1, knit one to end of row (you are knitting alternate stitches - you need to ease the stitches in order to slip them).
Row 4 (wrong side): Using chunky contrast, knit the sts you knitted on the previous row, and slip the sts you slipped.
Row 5 (right side): Change back to DK and smaller needles and knit every st across row.
Row 6 (wrong side): Using DK, purl.

When edging the blanket, I picked up sts around the whole blanket, and I worked from the right side for all rows, so on row 4, I purled the chunky sts, and all all other rows were knitted. To achieve this with such a large number of sts round the whole blanket, I started every row with a new ball of yarn, and worked in sections, completing all rows and casting off for a section before picking up the next set of sts. I did not break the multiple yarn strands between sections.

Cabling without a Needle

It was while I was making the Estonian socks from the Interweave Knits Sock book that I first became aware that this was a bona fide knitting technique. Before that, I always thought it was just some dexterous manipulation that I was forced into when knitting on the train and found that I had forgotten to take my cable needle with me. Now it seems to be the technique of the moment, with a Beyond the Basics lesson on it in the 2009 autumn issue of Interweave Knits, plus a full explanation in Knitting Daily.

It works like this:- for example, when cabling over 4 stitches as in C4B above, work to just before the stitches to be cabled. With the yarn at the back of the work, slip all four stitches purlwise to the right-hand needle. Bring the left-hand needle to the back of the work and insert it into the backs the two sts further from the left hand needle.

Between the left thumb and forefinger, pinch the base of the four stitches firmly. Pull the right-hand needle completely free of all four stitches; half will be on the left-hand needle; half will be free for a moment. Maintaining the front/back positions as established, quickly reinsert the right-hand needle into the free stitches at the front of the work. Make sure all the stitches are seated correctly on the needle; if they are held firmly, the stitches won't have twisted or moved at all during the time that they were dropped.

Finally slip the two stitches on the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle. The stitches are now crossed over. Knit all four sts as usual to complete the C4B.

This works well for cabling with smaller numbers of stitches (less than 6) and proved to be very useful for me while knitting these squares.

Instructions.

The pattern works the instep and the sole separately on two needles to enable you to work the fair isle pattern across the instep only. It is not possible to achieve this in the round. However, you join the two together as you knit.

Using No 12 needles with main shade (M), cast on 59 sts loosely and join in a round. Work 4 rounds in moss (also known as seed) stitch [every row k1 p1].

Next Round (increasing): K3; (m1, k8) 7 times. [66 sts]

Cuff border:

Change to No 11 needles and join in contrast (C) and work wave pattern border by repeating the 6 stitch pattern 10 times:

1st Round: * k3 contrast (C), k3 navy (N); repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k1(C) ; repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k1N; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: Knit in N.
5th Round (decreasing): K31; k2tog; ssk2tog; k31. [64 sts]

Now continue with cuff diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times across one round:

6th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * k2(N), k1(C), k1(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * k1(N), k1(C), k3(N), k1(C), k2(N); repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k1(N) ; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
11th Round: As 9th.
12th Round: As 8th.
13th Round: As 7th.
14th Round: As 6th.

Now break off C and continue with N only; change to No 12 needles and work 7 rounds knitting.

Then turn the work so you are working the rounds in the other direction. This reverses the work to allow the cuff to fold over with the right side visible.

Work 8 more rounds knitting; at the end of the first round knit into the stitch below the first stitch of the round and knit it together with the last stitch of the round to avoid a small hole in the work.
Editor's note: Even if you don't understand how to do this, any tiny hole will not be visible as it is hidden under the cuff.

Join in C, working main diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times:

1st Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k2(N), ; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k2(C), k1(N), k1(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k1(C), k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * k2(C), k3(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
6th Round: As 4th.
7th Round: As 3rd.
8th Round: As 2nd.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Work rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Continue with N only and divide for the heel, however do not break off C.

Divide for heel

Next Row: Using navy wool only, knit the next 31 stitches on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 33 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete patterns across the 33 instep sts. Make sure that it looks like this (you will have just completed row 5, the middle row in the picture):

[ Editor's note: If it doesn't look like this... you can compensate by knitting more or fewer sts for the heel flap until you get to the pattern boundary. Then when you purl back on the row below, follow the instructions as set to get your 30 sts. You should have your instep sts set correctly as above. If you still haven't then there is likely a mistake in your fair isle pattern.]

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Purl back across 15 sts, p2 together, purl remaining 14 sts. [30 sts].

Heel flap

Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.
Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p29.
Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.

Repeat last 2 rows 13 times more.

Turn heel

Turn the heel by working short rows:

Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p16, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip1, k5, ssk, k1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, k7, ssk, k1; turn.

Continue in this way until all the sts have been incorporated in the row, ending with a knit row. [18 sts]

Turn. Purl one row.
Do not turn work, do not break wool.

Pick up and purl 16 sts down side of heel flap to bring the navy wool back to work the patterned instep. Leave these 16 sts along with the 18 heel sts, on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Upper foot panel

Take 33 sts left on needles 1 and 2, and slip them on to one needle.

Continue to use the navy yarn and pick up the contrast C, which should be waiting for you at the beginning of a purl side instep row (row 6 of the pattern). Begin working back and forth across these 33 sts, keeping the continuity of the pattern starting with a purl row and working from row 6 of the chart where you left off; work alternate rows in knit and purl.
Work the first 6 rows without slipping the first stitch and after that, slip the first stitch of every row.

Continue for 5½ inches or 4 inches less than overall desired foot length, ending with a knit row.
[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot. Each pattern is approximately 1 inch, and it is nicer if you can end your work after one complete pattern, which will be to the nearest half-inch, after knitting row 5 or row 1 of the pattern. If your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches you can still work to complete patterns, and compensate by adding a couple of rows when you work the toe.]

Break contrast yarn, and continue in navy only.

Turn the work and purl across 15 sts; p2tog; p16.

Continue with wrong side facing, using another No 12 needle, pick up and purl about 27sts from the slipped sts down the right side of the upper foot panel, and from the edges of the first 5 rows you knitted.
[ Editor's note: This is 27 sts, or more, or less, depending on how you adjusted the foot length. Also - when you pick up these sts you may want to work the sts through their back loops to keep them tight.]

Mark the stitch, by placing a piece of waste wool between the sts at this point. The waste wool should be about 6 inches long in an easily distinguished contrasting colour, and smooth, (for example cotton), as it will be woven between rows, and later pulled out.

Using the same No 12 working needle, pick up and purl 17 sts from side of heel flap, then purl 9 sts from the heel.

Using another No 12 working needle, purl the 9 remaining heel sts, and then purl the 16 sts you already picked up from the other side of the heel flap.

Mark the stitch with a piece of waste wool, as before.

Continuing with this needle, purl along the left side of the upper foot panel, picking up 27 sts from the edges of the first 6 rows you knitted and from the slipped edge sts.

The work is arranged on 3 needles. The picture shows the working needle in the process of knitting across the sole, and the waste wool markers in white.
[ Editor's note: This is where you need the needles to be long. I managed with 8 inch dpns but they really need to be longer to ensure you don't lose sts off the ends. While you are working and joining the sole, it might be prudent to put end stops on the two working needles.

Purl across the 32 sts at the top of the panel. Then using one of the spare needles, purl down the right side of the panel again, as far as the stitch marker.]
The marker is trapped between sts in the row below; pass the waste wool between the sts again before continuing, so that it will be trapped between the rows and continue to mark the sts for the sole section.

Do not turn the work.

Sole

Using the No 12 working needles, you are going to knit back and forth across the sole (between the markers) in stocking stitch, knitting the last stitch from each row together with one stitch from the upper foot panel.

1st Row: (Wrong side facing) Slip1, p24 from first needle, (16 sts up side of heel and 9 sts from heel flap), then purl 24 sts from second needle, up to 1 stitch before the stitch marker. Purl the last stitch of the sole section together with the first of the instep sts. [50sts between the markers]
Turn.
Continue to work sole on 3 needles, one working needle and the sts arranged evenly over the other 2.

2nd Row: (Right side facing) Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts before the marker; k2tog, ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.
3rd Row: Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, purl to the last stitch; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, shaping the sole by decreasing 2 sts on the knit rows, until 28 sole sts remain between the markers.

Then continue without shaping as follows (continuing to weave in the markers as before):

Next Row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch before the marker; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before.
Next Row: Slip 1, knit to the last st before the marker; ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all the sts from the sides of the upper foot have been joined to the sole. Do not join any of the sole sts to the 32 sts left on the 4th needle at the end of the panel.
End with a knit row. Do not turn.

Toe

Now you continue to work the sole and upper foot sts together in a round, as follows:

With right side facing, using your working needle (needle 1), knit across 32 sts from the upper foot. Knit the next 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 2), and knit the final 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 3).
Knit the first stitch from the upper foot panel on needle 1 and slip it on to the end of needle 3. Slip the last stitch from the upper foot panel on to the beginning of needle 2.

You have 60 sts arranged with 30 sts on needle 1, and 15 sts on each off needles 2 and 3.

Continue to work in rounds as follows:

[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot if your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches. Work a couple of extra plain rounds here before starting the decreasing.]

1st Round: Needle 1: k1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk2tog, knit to end.
Needle 3: knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1. [56 sts]
2nd Round: Knit.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain.
[ Editor's note: You can decrease further if you have pointed toes.]

Slip the sts from needles 1 and 2 on to one needle and graft together with the sts on needle 3.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

4 ply: 2 ozs navy, 1 oz contrast colour.

One set each of 4 double pointed needles (dpns) size 11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm).
The smaller (12) needles need to be 9 or more inches in length.

Tension

30 stitches and 32 rows to 4 inches over pattern.

Size matters

Length from top to bottom of heel, top turned down, 5 inches; length of foot 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

N is main shade (navy).
C is contrast (pink).

m1: make one by picking up the loop between sts and knitting into the back of it

ssk/ssk2tog: (slip, slip, knit) - or (slip1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over). Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops".

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Purple Heather Fingering, (which in this era was a pure wool 4 ply), in navy for the main shade and white for the contrast.

Example used Sunbeam St Ives Sock wool in navy and Jaeger Baby Merino 4 ply in pink (50g balls, each about 200yds) - almost all of one ball of the main, and about half of the contrast.
Both wools are now extinct I think but substitute 4ply sock wools are fairly easy to find.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn. Cast on 48 stitches, using "backward loop method" as follows: loop 2, slide a bead up next to the loops; loop 4, slide next bead into place; slide next bead into place; and so on to the last bead and then end with loop 2 [48 loops].

Knit one row.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P1, k2, p1, k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P1, CB5 (cable over 5 sts "back" by slipping the next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the back of the work; k2, then (p1, k2) from cable needle), p2; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P1, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p2; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P1, k5, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K4; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k5; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Continue straight, working from the chart for the 9 rows, and completing the three hearts.

Row 10: K1, m1, k52, m1, k1. [56 sts]

Work 4 rows straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Knit 4 rounds on these 14 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn, cast on 48 stitches, and knit one row, as for right glove.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P2, k2, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P2, CF5 (cable over 5 sts "forward" by slipping the next 2sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the front of the work; k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle), p1; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P2, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p1; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P2, k5, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

You work the thumb gusset in the same way as you did for the right glove, but set the position of the thumb differently as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts; k5; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k4. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb and the bead hearts, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball Sunbeam St Ives 4 ply in cream 3103.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles. A tiny crochet hook for placing the beads.

66 beads size 6/0
[Sanctuary Beads]

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.
The cables on the wrist tend to pull in quite tightly without the same flexibility as rib. If you are concerned about this, you might use larger needles to complete the wrist welt, or even put in an extra stitch between each cable (cast on 54) just for the welt and then decrease back to 48 evenly across the last row of the cables. If you do this your pattern repeat will be
{P1, k2, p1, k2, p3}.
And you will need to place the beads on the cast-on row with 6 or 3 loops between beads instead of 4, and you may need a few extra beads to do this.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably go for Rowan 4 ply soft, perhaps in colour 376 "Nippy".

Beading

For those of you who think "Less is More" you might prefer to work a single bead heart, positioned on row 20, with the first bead on the 7th st from the edge.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Cast on loop method

Loop the working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind; repeat this movement to form the sts.

Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Using contrast colour, cast on 48 stitches; purl one row, and join into a round.

Change to main colour and knit one row.
Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2 inches from start.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K28; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Work 2 rounds straight.

Cut 6 lengths of contrast wool, about 28 inches in length, and 6 of main shade; do not use bobbins, just the lengths of wool.
Work the first row of the pattern from the chart, as follows, joining in the lengths of wool as required, repeating the 9 pattern sts 6 times:
[Editor's note: You are now going to split the knitting and work back and forth in knit and purl rows. This is in order to insert the hearts nicely using the intarsia method. I tried the Fair Isle technique but the red contrast colour showed through the white, and did not look attractive. This method does mean a little more sewing in of ends but I think the result is worth it.
You will join the round up as you reach the end of each row.]

Row 1: K4 from the ball of main shade, k1 using first strand of contrast yarn, k8 using first strand of main shade, k1 contrast using second strand of contrast, k8 using second strand of main shade, and so on the the last 4 sts; k3 in last strand of main shade, slip the last st. Still using the last working needle, pick up the st below the first st of the round and knit into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.

[Editor's note: Use the pop-up from the above picture for more detailed photos of this technique.]

Row 2: P3 in main shade, p3 in contrast, p6 in main shade, and so on; use the intarsia method and twist the two yarns together when you change colour. Continue in this way until you get to the last stitch in the row, and slip this stitch. Still using the first working needle, pick up the st below the last st of the round and purl into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.
Continue until all 6 pattern rows have been worked from the chart.

Now go back to working in the round, and continue in main shade only, using the main ball of wool.
Next round: K1, m1; knit to last 2 sts, m1, k1. Work 3 more rounds straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18 sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Distribute the 14 sts evenly across 3 needles, and work 4 rounds.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles joining in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:
Work as for the right glove until you reach the working for the thumb gusset then work as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k28 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball 4 ply in main shade, and small amount of contast colour.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles.

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably try Rowan 4 ply soft.
You need so little of the contrast it hardly seems worth buying a whole ball.

Intarsia

Here is a nice little video clip about intarsia knitting. Don't be put off by her continental knitting method.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Intarsia.

Text and Pictures taken from Ethknits "How to knit" page.

Hold the working yarn in your right hand and the yarn to be woven in your left.

Changing on a knit row: Knit with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to the left and wrap yarn B across the back of A as you knit the next stitch.

Changing on a purl row: Purl with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to left and wrap yarn B under A as you bring it across to purl the next stitch.

You can see from the purl row picture that the edge resembles a sideways knitted row as on each row you cross the yarns over. This way you should get no holes. Don't worry if you see holes where the yarn is loose in some places. When you finish your work you will have lots of ends to sew in and you can pull these tight and sew up any holes that still appear.

Instructions.

The pattern is worked back and forth on circular needles, in 5 stitch repeats over four basic rows:

1st Row: Wrong side facing, {p3, k2}.
2nd Row: {K1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2}
3rd Row: As first.
4th Row: {K2tog, yfwd, k1, p2}

Body:

Note: The back and fronts are knitted as one piece up to the armholes.

With smaller circular needles cast on {100/110}120 stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch, noting that the first row is a wrong side row.

Next Row: (Wrong side facing, 1st pattern row), knit 4 and slip this 4 sts on to a safety pin or stitch holder. Change to larger circular needles and commence pattern thus: k2, *p3,k2; repeat from * to the last 4 sts. Turn, slipping the last 4 sts onto a safety pin, without knitting them. [{92/102}112 pattern sts]
[Editor's note: these 4 sts are to be knitted separately later on the smaller needles and then sewn on to form the front borders.]

Next Row: (2nd pattern row), p2, *k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to end.

Next Row: (3rd pattern row), as first pattern row.

Next Row: (4th pattern row), p2, *k2tog, yfwd, k1, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern for 10 inches (or desired length), ending with a 4th row pattern, and wrong side facing to begin the next row.
[Editor's note: I wanted my top a little longer and knitted 12½ inches here, which was 11 four-row pattern repeats in my version.]
Change back to smaller circular needles and knit 1 row plain, (garter stitch).

†† Leave the main work on the circular needles to one side now, still with wrong side facing - the row you have just knitted is not completed until after you make the front borders.

Front Borders:

At this point you need to go back to the 4sts you left on safety pins on each side of the work, to make the front borders.

Using the pair of smaller needles, and working each set of 4sts separately, rejoin the wool and continue to knit the borders; it is important you join the wool and start knitting from the correct side of each border to continue in the right sequence for garter stitch.

This means that, provided you have followed the instructions exactly as above, for both borders, you need to join the wool at the edge which will later be sewn to the main body.
So for the right front start working on the 4sts from the wrong side, with the main body to your right, every row knitted - (the right front border is on the left when the wrong side of the work is facing you).
And for the left front start working on the 4sts from the right side, with the main body again to your right, every row knitted - (the left front border is on the left when the right side of the work is facing you).

Work each border in garter stitch until, when very slightly stretched, the border fits the length of the main body that you have just knitted, finishing the left border on a wrong side row, and the right border on a right side row. For both borders the yarn end will be at the edge next to the main body. Break the yarn.
The borders should be about half an inch* shorter than the main body so that they will fit when very slightly stretched.
*[Editor's note: half an inch is about 2 rows with this gauge of wool. The right border should be relatively slightly shorter than the left.]

Now return to your main work, on the circular needle. With wrong side facing, take up your last row of plain knitting (see the marker above ††) and complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the right front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{96/106}116sts].

Turn the work (right side facing) and knit across all {96/106}116 sts and then complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the left front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{100/110}120sts].

Now divide for front and back, with wrong side facing, knit the first {25/29}32 sts (includes your extra 4 sts at front border) and place these sts on a stitch holder, to make the left front, later.

Continuing without turning, cast on 3 sts using the working yarn, knit these 3 sts, knit {46/52}56 sts cast on 3 sts. Leave the remaining 32 sts on a stitch holder, to make the right front, later. [{52/58}62 sts].
Turn and commence working back.

Back:

With right side facing, work straight in garter stitch (every row plain) for 8 inches (or the required length for the arm hole), ending with right side facing.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 42 rows].

Shape shoulders by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows,and {4/5}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and leave the remaining {18/20}22 sts on a stitch holder.

Left front:

With right side facing return to the left front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

• you are working on the left front,
• you have the right side facing,
• you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
• if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32. [{28/32}35 sts]. Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge with right side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

**
To shape the neck, knit to the last {8/9}10 sts; turn and place these {8/9}10 sts on a safety pin or stitch holder. Decrease 1 st at neck edge on every row, until {17/19}20 sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge, with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, then cast off the remaining {4/5}5 sts.
**

Right front:

With wrong side facing return to the right front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

• you are working on the right front,
• you have the wrong side facing,
• you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
• if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32 sts, [{28/32}35 sts].

Commence working in garter stitch and make buttonholes on the following 6th and 28th (wrong side) rows as follows:

Buttonhole row 1: (wrong side), knit to the last 6 sts, cast off 2, knit to end.
Buttonhole row 2: (right side), k4, cast on 2 over the cast off sts from previous row, knit to end.

Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the armhole edge, ending at the armhole edge with wrong side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

Work to complete the right front exactly as the left from ** to **.

Neck Border:

With right side facing and smaller needles, starting at the top of the right front border, k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder, pick up and k9 sts up right side of neck, k{18/20}22 sts from back neck, pick up and k9 sts down left side of neck, then k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder. [{52/56}60 sts].
Work 4 rows plain in garter stitch; cast off (from wrong side).

To Make Up

Press very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder seams, using a flat seam, (or by grafting, working from the wrong side and making a purl ridge on the right side).
Sew front borders neatly in place using a flat seam, and sew in all ends.
Sew 2 buttons in place to match the position of the buttonholes.

Materials

About 7 x 100g balls of a chunky or "big" wool that knits to the required tension on 7½mm needles.

No 2 (7mm), and No 1 (7½mm) circular needles.
A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Two 1½ inch buttons.

Tension

11sts x 16 rows to four inches measured over stocking stitch on 7½mm needles.

Size matters

I made the main size shown in black text, which is a slightly large on me (UK size 12-14, maximum size 38 inches). The original pattern was multi-sized, so I have included {2 smaller size options}, in red ink with curly brackets, as shown.

They are sized to fit {34/36}38 inches, and actual sizes more like {35/38} 42 inches.

Length from top of shoulder in my version is approximately 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

A word on the wool.

I used a pure wool Aran knitted double throughout, and this was about 450m as if knitted with a single strand of bulky wool.

Original knitted in Patons Pablo.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole. "Yarn forward" or "yarn over needle" is often used in conjunction with knitting 2 sts together (so you avoid increasing the overall number of sts) in knitted lace patterns.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over - "s1, k1, psso" or "slip, slip, knit" ("ssk") is a method of knitting 2 sts together but into the backs of the sts rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts. When decreasing by knitting 2 sts together, the resulting stitch "points" either to the right, (k2tog) or to the left (s1, k1, psso). They are used in combination, for example, in lace knitting, or raglan sleeve decreasing, to create symmetrical decreases.

garter stitch: the simplest stitch pattern of all - every row is knittted, (when worked back and forth on two needles), and the back and the front of the work look the same. It makes a fabric that stretches vertically.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

I have checked and double checked, that I have written all the "right" and "wrong side" instructions correctly - despite this, I remain concerned that an error may still have crept in. If you have any doubts at all, please contact me as above.

Adapting the size:

Altering the size is fairly simple, as you are knitting a big rectangle, with the pattern being a 5 stitch repeat. Working to the required gauge, means that every addition of 5 sts gives you almost 2 inches extra room. Once you get to divide the work, you change to working garter stitch (no pattern), and can work it out so that half the sts go to make the back, leaving a quarter each for the two fronts. If you do not have stitches divisible exactly by four you can put the extra ones into the back, and incorporate them into the back neck.

Instructions

With No. 6 (5mm) circular needle cast on 68 stitches, and join into a round, and purl the first round. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Editor's note: Often when you cast on it tends to be tighter and have less give than the knitting, so with a hat band you need to make an effort to cast on loosely, especially if designed to fold back. Ravelry knitter kellyincville commented that it she would do the cast on and do the first row with a larger needle, which is excellent advice for this hat.
Now work in Fisherman's rib stitch as follows:

1st round: * K1B (knit one below, by knitting into the stitch below the next stitch, and slipping both sts off the needle together); p1. Repeat from * to end of round.
2nd round: * K1; P1B, (Purl one below). Repeat from * to end of round.

These 2 rounds form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 9inches from the beginning, ending with round 2.

Shape Crown as follows, keeping continuity of the pattern:
Editor's note: Ravelry knitter kellyincville noted that when you get to the k1/p1 rib used for these decreases, the ribbing is noticeably tighter than the the fisherman's rib. I regarded this as part of the crown pattern, which is only just visible in the photo, but she points out that you could go up a size on the needles to compensate.

Next round: (K3tog; p1,k1,p1) 11 times; k2tog. [45 sts]
Next 3 rounds: K1, p1, rib to last st, k1. [45 sts]
Next round: (K3tog; p3tog) 7times; k3tog. [15 sts]
Next 3 rounds: K1, p1, rib to last st, k1. [15 sts]
Next round: (K3tog; p3tog) twice; k3tog. [5 sts]
Next round: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1. [5 sts]

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends, and turn back brim as required.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

Simply work out how many sts you need to cast on according to your own gauge eg divide the number of sts by 16 and multiply by the number of sts you knit to 4 inches.
To work in Fisherman's rib, you need an even number of stitches.

A word on the wool.

If you work in pure wool you may need more than my stated quantities of yarn. Fisherman's rib is a very yarn-hungry stitch which produces a satisfying elasticated bulky fabric, by effectively knitting the yarn double, (nice and warm!).

Original pattern called for 3 x 50g balls Patons Husky Chunky, which is a pure wool chunky; the blend I used, no doubt, has a better yardage.
Patons Husky Chunky knitted to a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 40g balls of vintage Argyll Ferndale Shetland Chunky (an acrylic and wool blend).

Size 6 (5mm) and circular needle - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 2 inches on No 6 needles.

Size matters

There is a lot of give in the ribbed stitch, making the sizing very flexible.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

With No. 6 (5mm) circular needle cast on 89 stitches, and work in rounds of k1, p1, moss stitch for 3 inches. Increase 7sts evenly across the last row. [96 sts]

Change to No. 4 (6mm) circular needle and work pattern as follows:

[Editor's note: this pattern (blackberry stitch) is worked over groups of 4 sts, and the hat is knitted up from the wrong side throughout.]

1st round: (wrong side) Knit.
2nd round: * P3tog; (k1,p1,k1) into the next st. Repeat from * to end of round.
3rd round: as first
4th round: * (k1,p1,k1) into the next st; p3tog. Repeat from * to end of round.

These 4 rows form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 8½ inches from the beginning, ending with round 4.

Shape Top as follows, keeping continuity of the pattern:

Next round: K1 *k2, k2tog. Repeat from * to last st., k1. [72 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds 2, 3 and 4.
[Editor's note: You can't keep the pattern bobbles in line with the previous work during the decreasings; just make the bobbles evenly across the rounds as before.]

Next round: *K2tog, k1. Repeat from * to end of round. [48 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds.
Next round: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. [24 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds.
Next round: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. [12 sts]
Work 1 round.

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

Simply work out how many sts you need to cast on according to your own gauge eg divide the number of sts by 18 and multiply by the number of sts you knit to 4 inches.
To work in moss stitch, you need to use an odd number of sts and work k1,p1 on every round.

Do the same calculation when increasing for the blackberry stitch, taking note that your number of sts needs to be divisible by 4.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2x 50g balls of vintage Richard Poppleton Emmerdale Chunky Tweed (an acrylic and wool blend).

Size 6 (5mm) and size 4 (6mm) circular needles - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 9st to 2 inches on No 6 needles.

Size matters

This hat worked out to about 22 inches head circumference. My estimate is that "to fit an average sized head" means 22/23 inches for a man's size and 20-22 inches for a woman's size.
See "altering the size" below.

A word on the wool.

Original pattern called for Patons Husky Chunky, which was, I think a pure wool chunky, somewhat bulkier than the one I used.
It knitted to a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches. However, the implied hat size was very large, so I have not altered the original pattern sts according to my gauge, but have allowed the hat to knit up slightly smaller than the original.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

With No. 5 (5½mm) needles cast on 11 stitches, and work in cable pattern as follows:
[Editor's note: I cast on with waste wool, so I could remove it later and graft the ends of the band together.]

1st row: (wrong side) K3, p6, k2.
2nd row: P2, k6, p1, k2.
Repeat 1st and second rows twice more, then the 1st row again.

8th row: (right side facing) P2, cable 6 (slip the first 3 sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work; k3, then k3 from cable needle); p1, k2.

9th - 14th rows: Repeat 1st and second rows 3 times.

Repeat 1st - 14th rows 8 times more (9 patterns in all) ending with row 13. Graft the sts to the cast-on edge to form a circular band, [or cast off the 11 sts and sew the cast-on to the cast-off edge].

[Editor's note: If you want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, now is the time to do it. Lengthen or shorten this band to the circumference you want to achieve. See "altering the size" below.]

One edge of the band has a neat "finished" garter st edging and the other has a reverse stocking stitch edge, which you will use to continue knitting the hat in the round.
Change to number 6 (5mm) circular needle and, with right side of work facing, pick up 92 sts evenly around the reverse stocking stitch edge.

Work in rounds of k2, p2 rib for 5 inches (about 28) rows.

Shape Crown as follows:

1st round: *K2tog, p2. Repeat from * to end of round.
2nd round: *K1, p2. Repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat rounds 2 five times more.

8th round: *K1, p2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: *slip1, k2tog, pass the slipped st over; p1. Repeat from * to end of round.

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

This pattern relies on making an even number of cables around the hat, so to lengthen or shorten the band, you can either add in whole or partial pattern repeats, or, if you feel up to it, you could alter the number of rows in the pattern repeat of the cable.

Test your gauge before you start and work out how many rows you need to make your chosen head circumference size. Start by dividing the number of rows you calculate by 14, and then try some other numbers, eg 12, 16, 13, or 15, until you are close to getting an exact number of patterns. [Note that if you choose to work to an uneven number of rows in the repeat, then you will end up doing your cable operations on purl rows, which is quite feasible, but approach with caution if your are a beginner in this field!]

If the above all sounds hopeless to you, then just knit until the band is the length you require, and just sew the ends of the band together rather than trying to graft it. You could even work the hat on two needles instead of in the round, by picking up the stitches from the band before you sew it up, - and then, when you have finished, you sew a side seam into the hat, including the band.

Finally if you are altering the size, or compensating for a different gauge, you will probably need to pick up a different number of stitches from the band. I usually pick up a number of stitches equal to three quarters of the number of rows I have knitted.
Example: I knitted 9 pattern repeats of 14 rows which equals 126 rows in total. Then 126*3/4 = 94.5.
For this hat, you need the number of stitches picked up to be divisible by 4, and I chose to pick up 92sts. I could equally have chosen 96.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2x 50g balls of vintage Richard Poppleton Emmerdale Chunky Tweed (an acrylic and wool blend).

Two size 5 (5½mm) needles and a size 6 (5mm) circular needle - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 9st to 2 inches on No 6 needles.

Size matters

This hat worked out to about 22 inches head circumference. My estimate is that "to fit an average sized head" means 22/23 inches for a man's size and 20-22 inches for a woman's size.
See "altering the size" below.

A word on the wool.

Original pattern called for Patons Double plus, which was a double knitting wool, and the instructions were to knit the yarn double, producing a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches.
The hat was "unisex" but shown modelled on a woman.
I have compensated for changing the wool, and made the hat slightly larger - my own version is printed here, not the original.
The original instructions were to knit 8 pattern repeats for the band, and to pick up 86 sts for the hat, which was not knitted in the round.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions (both hands alike)

Using No. 14 (2mm) needles cast on 48 stitches, and work in k2, p2 rib in rounds for 2½ inches.

Next row: Knit twice into every stitch.

Now slip every alternate stitch (ie every "made" stitch) on to No 12(11) needles and leave the original 48 sts on the No14 needles on the outside of the work.

[Editor's note: The original instructions expect you to continue to knit on the larger needles, leaving the outer sts on the No 14 needles. I found this very awkward; I thought it would improve as I got further up the glove but it did not.
So I took the trouble, after I had slipped the sts as shown, to thread the outer sts onto waste yarn (slippery yarn, as the Tweed wool is felty), and then when I had finished the inner glove, rethread them back on to the 14 needles.]

Continue on the No 12(11) needles, on the "made" sts, in rounds of plain knitting, and work 2 rows straight.

3rd round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last st, knit twice into it.
Knit 2 rounds.

6th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 2sts, knit twice into next st, k1.
Knit 2 rounds.

9th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 3sts, knit twice into next st, k2.
Knit 2 rounds.

Continue in this way, increasing on every 3rd row at either side of the thuumb, until there are 66 sts on the needles.

Divide for thumb
Next round: K8; leave next 50 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 8 sts of round. [20sts]

Continue on these 20 sts for 22 rounds.
Next round: K2tog all round.
Next round: Knit
Next round: K2tog all round.
Draw thread through remaining sts and fasten off.

Rejoin wool to continue with the main part of the mitten:
remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base of the thumb, then knit the 50 sts from the holder. [54sts]

Work 18 rounds straight on these 54 sts.

Divide for fingers
Next round (forefinger): K10; leave leave next 38 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 6sts of round. [20sts]

Work 3 rounds straight on these 20 sts, then work 4 rounds k1, p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Next round (middle finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base forefinger. Knit first 6 sts from holder; cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; slip the last 6 sts on holder onto a needle and knit them. [20sts]

Complete as for forefinger.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base third finger, and knit the remaining 14 sts from holder. [18sts]

Work as before over these 18 sts.

Over-mitten
Now return to sts left on the No 14 needles at the wrist.
[Editor's note: Or - thread the sts on the spare wool back on to the No 14 needles.]
Join in the wool at the beginning of the round, (base of the thumb), and with No 11 (10) needles, work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), for 5 inches.

Next row (right side facing): K2tog; k21; k2tog; k21; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.
7th row: K2tog; knit to centre; k3tog; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.

Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing as for 7th row on every 6th row until 37 sts remain.
Work 3 rows straight.
Then decrease in the same way on every row until 9 sts remain.
Cast off.

Making up
Press stocking-stitch portions with a damp cloth. Darn in all ends. Insert zip down side of outer mitten, starting at top and ending with the pull just above the thumb; join the remainder of seam across top of fingers. The edges of the outer mitten should fit nicely round the thumb; finish these with a row of double crochet.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 25g balls Rowan 4ply Tweed.

Set of 4 each of numbers 14, 12 and 11 (UK size) needles for the smaller size, and 14, 11 and 10 for the larger size.
A number 12 crochet hook.

Two 4-inch zip fasteners.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 1 inch

Rowan 4ply tweed tension: 28st and 40rows to 4 inches (10cm) using No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit size 6¼-7, or 7½-8½ inch hand.

A word on the wool.

Original calls for 2oz 3 ply for girl's size [sic] and 3oz 4ply for man's size.
I have often read that older 3 or 4 ply wools were thicker than 3 or 4 plies of today; I have not really noticed that before in practice - however I think a large man's mitten could be knitted in guernsey 5ply or a light weight DK, like Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Cast on 73 stitches.

First row: K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat this row for the moss stitch border 8 times more.

10th (increase) row: Moss 8, (increase in the next st, moss 6) 8 times; increase in the next st, moss 8. [82 sts]

Change to pattern rows as follows:

1st row: moss 5, p3, *k6, p6; repeat from * to last 14sts; k6, p3, moss 5.
2nd row: moss 5, k3, *p6, k6; repeat from * to last 14sts; p6, k3, moss 5.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

11th row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
12th row: as first.
13th row: as second.
14th row: as first.
Repeat the 13th and 14th rows 4 times more.

23rd row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
24th row: as second.

These 24 rows form the pattern. Continue straight until the work measures 46 ins, ending with a 12th or 24th pattern row.

Next (decrease) row: moss 8 *k2tog; (p1, k1) 3 times; p2tog, repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog; (p1, k1) 4 times. [73sts].

Work 9 rows moss stitch over all stitches.
Cast off.

Finishing - Press work very lighty, taking care not to spoil th texture of the patttern. Cut the remainig wool into 7½ inch lengths; take 3 lengths of wool together each time, fold in half, and, with a crochet hook, knot through short ends to make a fringe. Trim fringe.

Substituting the wool - I used a vintage wool, Phildar Brisants. This is a fine double knitting, which is normally knitted on no. 9 (3¾mm) needles. The cabling make for a tighter tension, and the recommended needles (UK No 6) are 2 sizes larger than usual for a DK. I went with no. 8 needles, instead of 9s, but should have gone larger I think.
My scarf measures less than the 12 inches wide of the original; I knitted to the length I wanted.

If you want to use chunkier wool, then decrease the number of sts proportionally. The pattern is worked over 12sts.

Materials

Original call for 9oz of Patons Moorland Double Knitting

Example shown is knitted in Phildar Brisants.

One pair of No. 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to 20st and 26rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width: 12 inches
Length: 46 inches

A word on the wool.

This pattern is for double knitting wool, and from memory Moorland DK was slightly heavy-weight.
You can knit a scarf in anything you want - obviously - see "Substituting the wool".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Make two socks alike.

Main body - With main shade (M) cast on 56 stitches, and arrange across 3 needles (19 on each). Work as follows:

Rib round: k5, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Repeat this round 10 times more.

**
Round 12: purl to end.
Round 13: k5, purl to end.
Round 14: purl to end.
Round 15: k5; join in contrast colour (C) and knit to the end of the round: turn. [Editor's note: in other words, knit a short round].
Round 16: continuing with C, purl to the last 5sts; turn.
Do not break C, but pick up M.
Row 17: using M knit the C sts of the previous round to end.
**

Repeat from ** to ** 13 times more, and then work the 12th, 13th and 14th pattern rows again

Break C.

Work the toe - Continuing in M only, re-arrange the sts over the 3 double pointed needles as follows:
Toe foundation round - needle one: k1, k2tog, k14. [16 sts]
Toe foundation round - needle two: k the last 2 sts from the first needle, then k19 from the second needle, then k7 from the third needle. [28sts]
Toe foundation round - needle three: k the last 12sts from the third needle [12sts].

You now have 56 sts in the round.
Knit 3 rounds. Begin decreasing for the toe:

Next round: knit to the last 3 sts on the first needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1. Beginning the second needle, k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts on the second needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1. Beginning the third needle, k1, k2tog, knit to end of round, [52 sts].
Next round: knit.

Continue to decrease on every alternate round in this way until 24 sts remain. [8 on the first needle, 12 on the second needle, 4 on the third needle].
Knit the first 8sts from the first needle so that the wool is at the decrease edge of the toe. Do not cast off, but break off wool leaving a tail long enough for grafting (sewing up).

Making up - slip the last 4sts of the round on to the first needle and graft the two sets of 12 sts together to make the toe.
Darn in the ends.

Materials

Original pattern calls for a total of 2 (1oz) balls of 4ply - 1 ball in each colour.

One set of 4 double pointed No 11 needles.

Tension

30st and 38 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

Original knitted in Patons 101 Courtelle Crepe in "Venus blue" and "Starlight white".

Example knitted in Phildar Lambswool (51% wool, 49% acrylic), colours rouge and melon.

Tutorial on grafting or Kitchener Stitch.

Instructions

Each sock is worked in one piece. Make two alike.

Commence at the front edge. Using No. 12 needles, cast on 64 stitches, and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No. 6 needles.

**
Row 1: (right side) Knit twice into every stitch. [128 sts].
Row 2: Sl.1, purl to the last st, k1.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch (k 1 row, p 1 row).
Row 7: *K2tog; repeat from * to end of row. [64 sts].
Work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib. **
This completes a 12 row pattern.
Repeat from ** to ** twice and then from ** until you have completed the 7th pattern row.

Change to No. 12 needles. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up - Press each piece lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Join the cast on and cast off edges together, then continue the seam, stitching up one end for the toe.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, work a picot edge all around the top of each of the socks, as follows:

One slip st to secure the yarn to the top front edge.
*3ch, 1dc into the first of these chain, miss 1 st, 1 slip st into the next st. Repeat from * around each top.

Embroidery
Using the contrasting wool, work pairs of chain stitches, (or a kind of "lazy daisy" stitch) in a "V" shape down each front seam.
[Editor's note: The link above is to Sharon Boggon's lovely site "In a minute Ago". She is an artist who is interested in the connections between textiles and digital technology, and has created a wonderful site, full of interesting information (and a blog!)]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2oz of 4ply, and a small quantity of contrast for embroidery.
Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, in colour 007.

One pair each of number 12, an No 6 needles.

Tension

20st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 6 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

Baby Cashmerino is heavier than a 4ply, knitting to a tension of 25st and 34 rows to 4 inches. Thus I used more yarn than the original pattern. Each 50g is 125m, and I used 90g.

Instructions

Each sock is worked in one piece. Make two alike.

Cast on 76 stitches, and work as follows:

Row 1: k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2: k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.

Repeat these rows for 6½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Change to No. 12 needles. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up - Fold cast-on edge to cast-off edge and join side seams. (Seams form heel and toe).

Crochet edging - Starting at the heel, crochet eyelets all around the edge as follows: - 3ch, * 1dc in next stitch, 1ch, miss next st; repeat from * all round. Join with slip stitch to 3ch at the beginning.

Then work a row of picots thus: - * 3ch, 1 slip st into the first of these chain, 1 slip st into the 1ch space of the previous round; repeat from * all round. Fasten off

With wool double, crochet a chain cord for each sock and thread through holes; make and sew a small tassel to each end.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 1 (1oz) ball of Patons Beehive Baby Wool in 3ply.

One pair of number 11 needles.
Crochet hook

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

It is fairly easy to acquire 3ply Baby wool to knit up to this tension.

Instructions

With No. 11 needles and main colour (red), cast on 58 stitches.
Knit 4 rows in garter stitch (every row knit), then one row purl.
Do not break off the main colour (red).

**Change to number 10 needles and commence pattern as follows, using second colour (orange):

Row 1: (right side) *K4, slip 2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4.
Row 2: *P4, slip 2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, P4.
Row 3 and 4: As rows 1 and 2.
Break orange wool, and continue in red.
Row 5: knit
Row 6: purl
Row 7: Using the third colour (yellow) K1, *slip 2, K4; repeat from * to last 3sts, slip 2, K1.
Row 8: P1, *slip 2, P4; repeat from * to last 3sts, slip 2, P1.
Row 9 and 10: As rows 7 and 8.
Break yellow wool, and continue in red.
Row 11: knit
Row 12: purl

Rows 13-24: repeat rows 1-12.
Rows 25-30: repeat rows 1-6.

Change to number 11 needles and continue in garter stitch for 15 rows. Purl one row.**

Repeat from ** to ** three times, then rows 1-30 again.

Change to number 11 needles and work in garter stitch for 4 rows. Cast off.

Making up - Press the piece lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Fold the cover to form a bag as shown in the picture, and sew up the side edges, on the inside, either oversewing or with backstitch.
Sew in all the ends on the wrong side.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, (red), work a dc edge around the flap of the cover with ties as follows:

With right side facing, starting at the side edge, work 6 dc up edge of the garter st band, 15 dc up the honeycomb edge, 2dc up to corner, 3 dc into the corner st.
Then work across the cast-off edge making 2 dc into every 3 cast off sts approximately. After the first 6 dc (or where you want to place a tie) work the first tie by making 40 chain, then working 1dc into each chain back down to the knitted edge. Continue to work dc into the cast-off sts, making a second tie in the centre of the flap, after approximately 14 dc. Work another 14 dc and make another tie (match the position of the first tie). Work to the edge, 3dc into the corner st and then finish to match the other side of the flap.
Fasten off.

Work 3 more ties by making 40 chain, then working 1 row of dc into each chain. Sew the ties on to the cover to match the positions of the ties on the flap.
[Editor's note: If you want to avoid the crochet altogether you could sew on ribbon ties in the appropriate places.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for three contrast colours, (red, orange and yellow).
Example shown is knitted in 4 ply - 1 x 50g ball of each colour.

One pair each of number 10, an No 11 needles.
Crochet hook.

One hot water bottle "replacement core", (available to order on the web).

Tension

The wool should knit to a basic tension over st st of 28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

A word on the wool.

I used Phildar Lambswool (a 4 ply wool/acrylic mix) left over from another project.

Instructions

First piece - with No. 11 needles and first colour, cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: Inc in every st (8 sts)
Row 2: K3, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K3 (10 sts)
Row 3: Inc, K3, inc in next 2 sts, K3, inc. (14 sts)
Row 4: K6, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K6 (16 sts)
Row 5: Inc, K6, inc in next 2 sts, K6, inc. (20 sts)
Row 6: K9, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K9 (22 sts)

With the right side facing for row 7 place a row marker on this side of the work, to mark it as the right side of the work.

Then continue working as before, increasing at both ends of the row, and in the middle, on odd (right side) rows; increase only in the middle on even (wrong side) rows.

After a while, the stitches will become crowded and the shape hard to manage on just 2 needles. At this point, spread the sts evenly across two needles, discarding the centre st marker; continue to work back and forth across the needles using a third needle.

The work will take on a triangular, or arrow shape.
[Editor's note: The original pattern is intended to form a triangle, I could not make this happen - the wool I used may have a different rows:sts ratio than the one recommended. This shape and resulting cover is flexible and should suit whatever wool you use.]

Continue working until you have 105 sts on each side of the centre.
Leave the completed piece to one side without casting off. Do not break off the wool.
[Editor's note: The original pattern was intended for a hot water bottle. They advised to knit until there are 139sts with the 3 ply wool. The base of the triangle has to be long enough to wrap around your hot water bottle or heated pad; you can choose to stop knitting when you feel it is wide enough.]

Second piece - work a second triangle (or arrow) in the contrast colour.

Lay the pieces out with the point of one arrow to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below).

Continue working with one of the available colours (I used the red). Cast off the two rows of knitting together, using a "three-needle cast off"(see picture below), fairly tightly.

[Editor's note: You put your working needle into the first st on the front needle and the first st on the second needle behind; you pull your loop through and knit both sts off the needles together. You have one st on your working (usually right hand) needle. You repeat so there are two sts on your working needle. You pass the first st you knitted over the second; continue casting off in this way.]

This is how it looks half way through; ideally the work should lie flat at the cast off edge:

Next you put the other two edges together - again the point of one arrow is next to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below):

Cast off the two rows together. You are left with a sort of tube; turn it so that the cast off edges are inside. The next picture shows a hot water bottle placed in the tube.

The arrow points are arranged centre front and back.

Fold up one of the ends and sew the diagonal seams in place from the wrong side. (I sewed the tip of my white arrow for the closed end). At the other end, make a chain using the crochet hook and sew in place as a loop for the button at the (red) arrow tip.
Place your "replacement core" in the cover and fold over the top of the cover to an appropriate position and mark the place for the closing button.
Make a crochet flower to act as a button, and sew in place.
[Editor's note: You know ho to make a crochet flower without instructions don't you?
O, all right then; this is what I did...]

Crochet flower - begin by making a slip loop with your first colour as if you were starting a crochet chain, and crochet into this loop for your first round. Ensure that the loop "slips" (can be tightened) from the tail end of your work, not the working end.

Round 1: using the first colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: chain 3, (1 htr 1ch) into each of the 8 dc then ss join to the first 3ch.
Round 3: 1dc into first chain space, (3ch, 1dc into next ch sp) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Make a second flower in the second colour.

Round 1: using the second colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: ss into first dc, (3ch, ss into next 1dc) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Place second flower on top of first, and sew through both layers, onto the cover at the marked position for the button.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2 oz each of two contrast colours in 3ply.
Example shown is knitted in 4 ply - 1 x 50g ball of each colour.

One pair of number 11 needles, with a spare pair (or set or 4) to aid in the construction.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

One hot water bottle "replacement core", (available to order on the web).

Tension

Garter stitch is difficult to measure but the wool should knit to a basic tension over st st of 28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

A word on the wool.

I used an acrylic 4ply; not ideal, but these covers can take some wear and tear.

Instructions

Knitted to a basic shape as follows:

Back - cast on 88 sts. Knit in your own pattern for 7 or 8 inches.
Cast off 10 stitches at each side for the armhole.
Knit until armhole measures 8 inches.
Cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Cast off remaining sts.

Right front - cast on 36 sts. Knit to pattern increasing 1st at the beginning of every alternate row until there are 44 sts. (This forms a curved front edge).
Continue to knit for 7 or 8 inches to match the back ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 sts at the beginning of the next wrong side row.
Knit until armhole measures 6 inches, (about 12 rows fewer than the back), ending with right side facing. Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of next row (the neck edge); then decrease 1 st at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 23 sts remain, ending at the armhole edge.
With wrong side facing, cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work one row and then cast off remaining sts.

Left front - work to match the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves - cast on 56 sts and work for 2 inches, then increase 1 st at each end of next and every following 6th row to 76 sts. Work straight to 15 inches from beginning. Cast off.

Crochet border - a simple row of double crochet and then a crochet shell pattern (1 dc; miss 2; 5 tr into next stitch; miss 2; then repeat).

Make up - sew shoulders and side seams. Set sleeves into the armholes, placing 2 ins at the sleeve top to the cast off sts at the underarm, and sewing up the sleeve seams.
Crochet a border all around front edges and cuffs.
Attach a cord or ribbon to the neck edge to tie.

Materials

Self-styled free form pattern, knitting a mixture of rows in plain and purl, using wools from 4ply through to a chunky boucle and including ribbon yarn.

Tie made from twisted cord or ribbon.

Size matters

Tension (average over different yarn weights):
22st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 8 (4mm) needles.
The instructions knit up to approximately a 32/34inch chest.

Men's slippersocks in 2 colours. I have also knitted a 3 colour version to use up wool oddments. I did try to knit these completely in the round to avoid seams but found it almost impossibly complex to do the fair-isle over only half the round - so I would stick to the instructions as given

Instructions

With No. 12 needles and main shade (M) cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.
Work in k3, p3 rib for 8 rows.
Change to number 10 needles.

Commence pattern as follows:

Rnd 1: Change to contrast colour (C) and knit all sts.
Rnds 2-8: Work in k3, p3 rib, as set.
Rnd 9: Change to colour M and knit all sts.
Rnds 10-12: Work in k3, p3 rib, as set.
Rnd 13: Joining in colour C, *k1 M, k1 C; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 14: *k1 C, k1 M; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 15-16: Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Rnd 17: Continue with M only, *k3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * to end. [Editor's note: this strange row is a k3 p3 rib avoiding purl sts while changing colour].
Rnds 18-20: Work in k3, p3 rib, as previously set.

These 20 Rows form the pattern.

Work top of foot as follows:

Break off M and slip the first 16 sts of the round on to a spare dpn, and slip the last 13 sts on to a second spare dpn. [Editor's note: these can be your No. 12 needles if required].
Continue knitting on the centre 31 sts over 2 No. 10 needles in shade C; commence the pattern rows as before, adjusting the pattern as follows:

Row 1: Using C knit all sts.
Row 2: p2, * k3, p3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: k3, p2.
Row 3: k2, * p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: p3, k2.
Row 4: as row 2.
Continue with the rib, working a single knit row every time you change colour. Set the fair-isle pattern as follows:
Row 13: Join in C, *k1 M, k1 C; repeat from * to last st, k1 M.
Row 14: *p1 C, p1 M; repeat from * to last st, p1 C.
Rows 15-16: Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Row 17: Using M only: k1, p1, *k3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts: k3, p1, k1.
Row 18: k2, * p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: p3, k2.
Work 2 more rib rows in M to complete the 20 row pattern.

Now work one more pattern set of 20 rows, and then the first 8 rows again, decreasing 1st at the end of the last row, (30 sts).
[Editor's note: make any measurement adjustments here].

Shape toe:

Using M only, continue in stocking stitch, (one row knit, one row purl), decreasing 1 st (k2 tog) at each end of the next, and every alternate row, until 14 sts remain. Leave these sts on a safety pin.

Make the heel:

Return to the remaining 29sts; place both sets together on one needle, and continue to work on them in st st, using colour M.
Next row: k2tog tbl, k12, inc in next st, k12, k2tog. (28 sts)
[Editor's note: this instruction increases a stitch by knitting into the front and back of a st. This produces a tiny bar, visible across the newly created st. If you want an invisible increase then you "make 1" by picking up the strand between two sts and knitting into the back of it - this twists the strand and keeps the new st tight. This type of increase is often used for berets or tams as it is completely invisible; you cannot hide a decrease in the same way. If you use this method here then the row above will read:
Next row: k2tog tbl, k12, make 1 st, k13, k2tog. (28 sts)].
Next row: purl.
Continue decreasing one st at each end of every alternate row, until 14 sts remain.
Now begin to increase one st at each end of every alternate row, until there are 30 sts.

Continue in st st until the foot is the same length as the top.
[Editor's note: remember any measurement adjustments you made before].
Shape toe as given for the top.

Making up.

Graft the two sets of 14 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting, otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Press the work lightly with a hot iron using a damp cloth.
Sew up the heel seams and the seams on the sides of the foot.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

2 x 50g skeins of main shade and 1 x 50g contrast in double knitting wool.

Two sets of 4 double pointed needles, Nos. 10 and 12.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.