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March 2024

Brer Rabbit

BrerRabbit.jpg

Another delightfully plain and practical pram set for a little one, including leggings, a jumper, and a jaunty beret!

Instructions

Jumper Back

Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib for 1½ inches ending with a wrong side row.

Change to size 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Continue until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from to , until 42 (44, 44, 46) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: k2, p2tog , k10 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following alternate row until 5 stitches remain.
Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge until 2 stitches remain, working the decreases at the outer armhole edge when they can no longer be worked inside the border of 2 stitches.

Work 1 row; k2tog, and fasten off.

Slip the centre 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in the yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches; knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog , k2.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Sleeves

Using size 12 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) stitches and work in k1/ p1 rib for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 52 (56, 60, 64) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a flat stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open. With the right side of the work facing and using size 12 needles, knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 12 stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches at the centre; pick up and knit 12 stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on top of the Right Sleeve, and the 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches on the back neck.
[76 (84, 84, 92) sts.]

Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ inch.
Cast off in rib.


Leggings - right leg

Using size 12 needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 4, * yfwd., k2tog, rib 2. Repeat from * to end.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Change to size 10 needles and work as follows.

Shape Back

1st row: knit 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: knit 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: purl to end.
5th row: knit 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: purl to end.
7th row: knit 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: purl to end.

★★ Continue in stocking stitch, working across all stitches for 28 (32, 32, 34) rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 5th row until there are 88 (92, 96, 100) stitches on the needle, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 2 rows. [92 (96, 100, 104) sts]

Commence Leg Shaping by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 66 (72, 76, 80) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row until 38 (38, 42, 42) stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 16½ (17¼, 17¾, 18½) inches at the longest (back) edge, ending with a purl row. ★★

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 31 (31, 34, 34) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k3, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 29).
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k2, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28).
5th row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 27).
6th row: purl.
Cast off.

Leggings - left leg

Work as for Right Leg from to .

Shape Back

1st row: purl 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: knit to end.
3rd row: purl 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: knit to end.
5th row: purl 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: knit to end.
7th row: purl 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: knit to end.

Commencing with a purl row, follow the instructions for the Right Leg from ★★ to ★★.

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 20 (20, 22, 22) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k24 (26, 27, 29); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k3.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k23 (25, 26, 28); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k2.
5th row: k22 (24, 25, 27); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k1.
6th row: purl.
Cast off.


Beret

Using size 12 needles, cast on 132 (132, 136, 136) stitches and work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.

Next row (increase row): rib 7 (7, 9, 9). * work twice into the next stitch, rib 2; repeat from * to the last 8 (8, 10, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 7 (7, 9, 9).
[172 (172, 176, 176) sts]

Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Work 20 (20, 24, 24) rows.

Shape Crown
1st decrease row: k8 (8, 6, 6), * k2tog, k9 (9, 7, 7); repeat from * to last 10 (10, 8, 8) stitches; k2tog, k8 (8, 6, 6).
[157 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
2nd decrease row: * k9; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[131 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
3rd decrease row: * k7; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[105 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
4th decrease row: * k5; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[79 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
5th decrease row: * k3; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[53 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
6th decrease row: * k1; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[27 sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k3tog all along the row. [9 sts]

Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

To Make Up

Jumper
Sew in zip to left back raglan seam, then join the remainder of the seam.
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.

Leggings
Using a back stitch, join the back, front, leg and foot seams.
Thread elastic through eyelet holes at the waist.

Beret
Using a flat stitch, join the seam.
Sew a pompon to the top of the crown.
To make a pompon, cut wool into 3 inch lengths; tie securely in the centre; fluff out and trim to shape.

Materials

4 ply yarn 25g balls:
Jumper: 3 (3, 4, 5)
Leggings: 4 (4, 5, 5)
Beret: 2 (2, 2, 2)

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

4 inch zip fastener for jumper
Elastic for leggings waist

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
19 (20, 21, 22) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: work two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")
stocking stitch: alternate Rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a superwash wool. It appeared as 1 oz balls, then as per this pattern in 25g balls, and finally in 50g balls.

Possible yardage based on the 50g ball information is 93 yards (85 metres) to 25g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

January 2024

Beautiful Brioche

BeautifulBrioche

Wonderfully cosy raglan sweater stitched in two vibrant colours. Fisherman's rib - or brioche as it now seems to be called, (no link to French bread as far as I can see) - is fantastically squishy and lovely - well worth the effort.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (right side): With B, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (right side): With A, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (wrong side): With B, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

  • When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
  • When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
  • When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 85 (89, 93) stitches and work in single rib:
**
1st row (right side)
: K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches (8cm) from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.
**
Increase row: Rib 6 (8, 10), [double increase, rib 7] 9 times, double increase, rib 6 (8, 10). [105 (109, 113) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue until work measures 13½ (14, 15) inches from the beginning.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (29, 29) times.

Cast off remaining 31 stitches for back neck.

Front

Work as for back until 114 (120, 124) rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan shaping; 39 stitches remain for all sizes, ending with a decrease row.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: Pattern 13, and leave these stitches on a holder; cast off the next 13 stitches; pattern to end.
Continue on these last 13 stitches now remaining on the needle.


***
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 6 rows, and then at the same edge on the next 2 alternate rows, and at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows; then decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every following 4th row twice.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the other set of 13 stitches, and complete in the same way, from *** reversing shaping.

Note that the front is overall 4 rows shorter than the back.

Left Sleeve

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (55, 55) stitches and work as for back welt from ** to **.

Increase row: Rib 4 (6, 6), [double increase, rib 13] 3 times, double increase, rib 4 (6, 6). [59 (63, 63) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 6 (8, 3) times, then every following 8th row 12 (10, 17) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.
[95 (99, 103) sts]

Continue straight until work measures 16 (16½, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a 3rd (5th, 5th) pattern row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 22 (23, 23) times; for all sizes 33 stitches remain, ending with a 5th pattern row.
****

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches for the back sleeve section on a spare needle; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for front section of sleeve.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 9 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 4 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for back sleeve section.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 5 times, then every following 4th row 3 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 5 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Note that front edge off sleeve is 4 rows shorter than back edge.

Right Sleeve

Work as for left sleeve to ****.

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches on a spare needle for front sleeve section; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for back section of right sleeve, and complete as for back section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for front sleeve section, and complete as for front section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Make Up and Neck Borders

Join front raglan seams and right back seam matching vertical stripes. With right side of work facing and using No 11 (3mm) needles, using main colour A, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the neck opening at the top of the left sleeve, 41 stitches round front neck edge, 15 stitches along neck opening at the top of the right sleeve and 32 stitches across the back neck.
Beginning with the 2nd row work in single rib as on the welt for 9 rows then cast off loosely ribwise.
Join left back raglan seam and the ends of the neck border.
Fold this border in half to the wrong side, and slip-stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.
Join side and sleeve seams.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - purple;
5 (6, 6) in contrast colour B - bright teal.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BeautifulBriocheDiagram

December 2023

Well wrapped up

WellWrapped.jpg

This is a pleasing and relatively simple set for a child, with a sweater and hat worked in a two-colour fair-isle pattern. To match, we have a plain coloured pair of mittens, and a simple pair of trousers - all in double knitting weight yarn.

Instructions

Sweater Back and Front alike:

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 11 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).

Work 10 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row. *
Change to No 9 needles, join in C, and work the pattern from the chart. Work the odd rows as knit, reading the chart from right to left, and repeating the 12 stitches before the dotted line to the last stitch, then k1 stitch beyond the dotted line. Work the even rows as purl, reading the chart from left to right, purling the first stitch (before dotted line), and then repeating the 12 stitches beyond dotted line to end.

WellWrappedChart.jpg

Continue until 3 complete patterns have been worked (or until work measures 16 inches from hemline), ending with a purl row.
Break off C.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch with MC.

Shoulder Shaping: Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Purl 1 row (hemline). Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row. Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 49 stitches.
Work as back to *.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for the back, increase 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there
are 61 stitches
Continue until the 26th row of the 2nd pattern has been worked (or until the sleeve measures 10 inches from the hemline).
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Trousers Right Leg:

Beginning at the ankle, with No 10 needles, and MC cast on 76 stitches. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch knit 1 row (hemline).
Change to No 9 needles and continue in stocking stitch until leg
measures 15 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.
Continue straight, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until there are 88 stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Mark each end of last row for the top of the leg.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until 68 stitches remain. Continue until work measures 24½ inches from hemline *, ending with a knit row. **

Shape back by working short rows thus:
Purl 12; turn, knit to end.
Purl 24; turn, knit to end.
Purl 36; turn, knit to end.
Purl 48; turn, knit to end.
Next row: Purl across all stitches.

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Trousers Left Leg:

Work as right leg to *, ending with a purl row.
Complete as right leg from ** but working knit instead of purl, and purl
instead of knit.

Hat:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 97 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row p1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back of sweater until one complete pattern from the chart has been worked (or until work measures 5½ inches), ending with a purl row.
Break off C and continue with MC only.

Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of 1st row. [96 sts].

Shape top thus:
Next row: (k2tog, k6); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k5); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k4); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 24 stitches remain. Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog); repeat to end. [12 sts]
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Mitts (make 2 alike):

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 39 stitches.
Work 2 inches rib as beginning of hat.
Change to No 9 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch.
Shape Thumb thus:
Next row: k19, pick up loop that lies before next stitch and knit it through back loop (referred to as make 1), k1, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k19, m1, k3, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Continue to increase in this way, working 2 stitches more between the increases on every alternate row until there are 51 stitches
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k32; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Next row: p14; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch on these 15 stitches
Next row: (k2tog, k 1) 5 times.
Next row: (p2tog) 5 times.
Break off wool, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and
fasten off securely.
Join thumb seam.

With right side facing and 32 stitches on right hand needle, rejoin yarn at the base of the thumb; pick up and knit 2 stitches at the base of thumb, knit the 6 stitches to the end of the row end. [40 sts].
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch on these stitches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k14, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k12, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: ( k2tog) across row to end.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press or block work.

Sweater: Join shoulder and neck facing seams.
Sew top of sleeves to sides, beginning and ending 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn in hems and catch-stitch in place.

Trousers: Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up hems and catch-stitch in place.
Join elastic in ring and attach to wrong side of waist with herringbone casing.

Hat: Join seam.
Make pompon and sew on top.

Mitts: Join seam.

Materials

Worked in a standard double knitting yarn (swatch as per tension given).

Sweater:
6 oz main colour, and 4 oz contrast.

Hat:
2 oz main colour, and 1 oz contrast.

Trousers:
9 oz main colour.

Mitts:
2 oz main colour.

Pair each of No 9 (3¾mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Waist length of elastic.

Tension

26sts to 4 inches over fair-isle, 24sts over stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

Sweater:
To fit 24 inch chest; length 16½ inches; sleeve: 10 inches.

Trousers:
Width around widest part 26 inches;
leg length 16½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

MC = main colour
C = contrast

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2023

Diamonds to Suit

DiamondSuit.jpg

Striking (or startling) sixties "costume" of a jacket with a matching dress or skirt. The colours are very much of the time, so it might be slightly more appealing to current taste if executed in, say, black or navy with a neutral white or cream (but if you like it, I expect you'd already thought of that!).

Instructions for Jacket and Skirt Suit

Jacket Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and B, cast on 80 / 84 / 88 / 92 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 10 / 12 / 4 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, * knit 4, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 9 / 11 / 3 / 5 stitches, knit 9 / 11 / 3 / 5.
[93 / 97 / 105 / 109 stitches]

With right side facing, change to No 7 (4½mm) needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: using D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: using D, * p2, with wool at front, slip 1 purlwise, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
3rd row
: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: using B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1. 6th row: using B, * slip 1, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until back measures approximately 14 inches, ending with 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until 69 / 73 / 79 / 83 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 6 / 2 / 5, p2tog, * p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last 4 / 5 / 3 / 4 stitches, purl 4 / 5 / 3 / 4.
[58 / 62 / 66 / 70 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until back measures 21 / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining 24 / 26 / 28 / 30 stitches.

Jacket Left Front

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 3 / 3 / 5 / 3, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 4 / 3 / 2 / 2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 4 / 4 / 6 / 4 stitches, knit 4 / 4 / 6 / 4.
[45 / 49 / 53 / 57 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and diamond pattern, starting with 1st pattern row, and work straight until front matches back at side edge, ending with 8th pattern row.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next and every alternate row until 33 / 37 / 40 / 44 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 4 / 3 / 1, p2tog, * purl 3 / 2 / 2 / 2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 3 / 3 / 3 / 1 stitches, purl 3 / 3 / 3 / 1.
[27 / 29 / 31 / 33 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until front measures 19½ / 20 / 20 / 20½ inches down centre.
With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on every row until 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

Jacket Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 40 / 42 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 11 rows garter stitch.
With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th/7th/7th/5th and every following 8th row, until there are 56 / 60 / 60 / 64 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 22 / 24 / 20 / 22 stitches remain. Purl back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 / 18 / 18 / 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 60 / 62 / 64 / 66 stitches and work in garter stitch, shaping collar by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 70 / 72 / 74 / 76 stitches
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 7 / 8 / 8 / 8, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 / 4 / 5 / 6 stitches; knit 6 / 4 / 5 / 6.
[78 / 80 / 82 / 84 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, knit 8 / 9 / 9 / 9, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches; knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[86 / 88 / 90 / 92 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 9 / 10 / 10 / 10, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[ 94 / 96 / 98 / 100 sts]

Work 7 rows straight,
Next row
: * knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 10 / 11 / 11 / 11, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 8 / 6 / 7 / 8 stitches, knit 8 / 6 / 7 / 8.
[102 / 104 / 106 / 108 sts]

Work 7 rows straight. Cast off.

Front Bands

Right: With No 10 needles and B, pick up and knit 107 / 109 / 109 / 111 stitches up right front to start of neck shaping.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Make 7 buttonholes in next 2 rows as follows:—
Next row: knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5, (cast off 3, knit 13) 6 times, cast off 3, knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5.
Next row: knit, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Left: Work to correspond with right front band, omitting buttonholes.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Pin cast-on and increasing edge of collar all round neck, starting and ending in centre of front bands.
Sew neatly in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press stud under collar.

Skirt

First panel:
With No 10 needles and B, cast on 55 / 59 / 63 / 67 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch, (every row, knit).
Next row: knit, increasing 10 stitches evenly across.
[65 / 69 / 73 / 77 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: in D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
2nd row: in D, * p2, slip 1 purlwise, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
3rd row
: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: in B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
6th row: * slip 1, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work a further 4 / 8 / 10 / 16 rows straight in pattern.
Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 16th / 14th / 14th / 12th row until 51 / 53 / 57 / 59 stitches remain. **

Work 3 / 3 / 1 / 1 rows straight, then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until 31 / 33 / 35 / 37 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 20 / 20½ / 21 / 21½ inches down centre, ending with 8th pattern row.
Break D.

Change to No 10 needles, and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib in B.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Make 3 more panels the same, one for each side, and one more for back or front.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join seams.
Press seams.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join into a ring; sew inside top of skirt using herringbone stitch over elastic to form a casing.

Materials

Jacket:
15 / 16 / 17 / 18 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
4 / 4 / 5 / 5 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Skirt:
8 / 9 / 9 / 10 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
6 / 4 / 6 / 6 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.
½ inch wide elastic to fit waist.
1 press stud.

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

18sts and 25 rows to 4 inches in tweed yarn on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Jacket:
To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches;
sleeve seam: 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16

Skirt:
To fit hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length: 21/ 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches;

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed DK (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a finer yarn, and much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly, and the tension here aligns Bracken more towards being an Aran yarn rather than a DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Instructions for Dress

Skirt sections

Work panel as given for skirt above from ** to **.
[51 / 53 / 57 / 59 sts]

Work 9 / 9 / 7 / 13 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 10th row.
[47 / 49 / 53 / 55 sts]

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 16½ / 17 / 17½ / 18 inches down centre, ending with 4th pattern row, and increasing 1 stitch in the centre of this row for the 2nd and 4th sizes only.
[47 / 50 / 53 / 56 sts]

Break off B yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make another 3 panel sections the same, and number each panel 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Bodice back:

To make the bodice, arrange the stitches from the skirt panels as follows:—
Slip the first 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 and the last 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 on stitch holders.
With No 8 (4mm) needles, and right side facing, using D yarn knit the remaining 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 1, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 2, then knit remaining 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 3.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

*** Continue working back and forth in stocking stitch on these 94 / 100 / 106 / 112 stitches for the back, starting with a purl row and work 3 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 25 / 27 / 29 // 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, k2tog, k1 , k2togtbl, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29.
[78 / 84 / 90 / 96 sts]
Work 15 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitches and knitting into back of it, k1, increase 1 as before, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 34 / 36 / 38 / 40, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work straight until bodice measures 12½ / 12½ / 12 / 12 inches from start.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain. ***

Work a few rows straight until bodice measures 15½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.
Here divide for back opening: -
Next row: knit 33 / 35 / 37 / 39.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue straight on these 33 / 35 / 37 / 39 stitches for first side until bodice measures 19½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Purl back.
Leave the remaining 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side of back.

Bodice front:

With No 8 needles and right side facing, using D yarn, work as follows:—
knit 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 from the stitch holder, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 4, then knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 from the stitch holder.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work as for Bodice back from *** to ***.
66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain.
Continue straight on these stitches until bodice front measures 17½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:-
Next row
: knit 26 / 27 / 28 / 29.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue on these 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
[18 / 19 / 20 / 21 sts]
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, slip centre 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing, and using the set of No 10 needles, or circular needle, work in D yarn as follows:—
Knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from left side of back, increasing 2 stitches evenly; pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of front, knit 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches from centre front increasing 4 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 16 stitches up right side of front, knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from right side of back increasing 2 stitches evenly across.
[84 / 88 / 92 / 96 sts]

Arranging the stitches evenly on 3 needles, or using circular needle, work backwards and forwards in garter stitch (every row knitted) for 3 rows.
Next row: knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8, k2tog, * knit 10 / 10 / 11 / 11, k2tog; repeat from to last 5 / 7 / 6 / 8 stitches, knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8.
[77 / 81 / 85 / 89 sts]

Work a further 3 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Armbands: With right side facing, and using No 10 needles, work in D yarn as follows:—
Pick up and knit 76 / 76 / 84 / 84 stitches round each armhole.
Work 6 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Join side seams and armbands with a flat seam.
Insert zip into back opening allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams.

Materials

12 / 13 / 14 / 15 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")
6 / 7 / 7 / 8 x 1oz balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles or a circular needle.

A 5 inch zip fastener for back of dress.
[Editor's note: probably better to check the measurement once the bodice is completed.]

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 36 / 36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2023

Out in the Open Air

OutInTheOpenHer.jpg

Still beside the sea, as the weather turns cooler. An altogether pleasing design for jackets with broken cable pattern - for him: a zip closure with angled pockets, and for her: a smooth line with buttons.

Instructions for woman's jacket

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 122 / 128 / 136 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on the middle size only. [122 / 129 / 136 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change to No 6 needles and repeat from 1st to 34th rows inclusive once, then 1st to 24th rows inclusive once.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. ***

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armholes by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work a further 6 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 6th rows.

Repeat the last 6 rows until 32 / 37 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

For the 2nd size: work 4 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and 3rd rows.

For the 3rd size: work 8 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and then alternate rows.

For all sizes: cast off the remaining 32 / 33 / 34 stitches, firmly.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 / 80 stitches, and work exactly as for back to ***.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, work in rib to end.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
** Work a further 6 rows decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 6th rows.
Repeat the last 6 rows until 46 / 51 / 57 stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

SHAPE NECK:
For the 1st size continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off.

For the 2nd and 3rd sizes: continue decreasing as before but at each end of the needle until 31 / 21 stitches remain.
Now continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 10 / 14 stitches remain.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off. **

Right Front

Work exactly as for left front to the start of the armhole shaping, then work one more row in rib to end with the wrong side facing.

Now shape the armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
Work as for the left front from ** to **.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 40 / 40 / 42 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 5 / 5 / 10 stitches evenly across on the last row. [45 / 45 / 52 sts]

Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 2 / 2 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 89 / 91 / 98 stitches. Then continue straight until the 28th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape armhole exactly as for back until 43 / 43 / 48 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 9 / 5 / 6 stitches remain. Cast off.

Front Borders

Left: With No 7 needles, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows until border fits up edge of left front to the start of the neck shaping when slightly stretched.
Cast off evenly in rib. Sew in position.

Right: Work a similar strip for the right front, with the addition of 8 buttonholes; the first to come in the 5th and 6th rows up from the lower edge, and the 8th just below the start of the neck shaping, and the remaining 6 spaced evenly in between.
First mark the position of the buttons with pins on the left border to ensure even spacing and work the buttonholes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 4, cat off 3, rib 4; rib back, casting on 3 over those cast off.

When border is finished, cast off evenly in rib, and sew in position.

Collar

With No 7 needles, cast on 139 / 141 / 145 stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib as given for left front border, until collar measures 4 inches. Cast off 24 / 25 / 27 stitches at he beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join raglan, side and sleeve seams, matching patterns carefully.
Sew collar in position, placing ends to centre of front borders.
Press seams as above.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
14 / 14 / 15 x 2oz balls in snow white.

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

8 buttons.

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
35-36 / 37-38 / 39-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 / 25½ / 26 inches;
sleeve seam: 17 inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 



Out in the Open Air

OutInTheOpenHim.jpg

"The sporty out-door look is perfectly typified in this popular, but first-class looking, zipped jacket. Companion to the woman's jacket, in the same attractive crunchy broken rib pattern. Lovely waterside colour of deep, shimmering blue, lightweight, but windproof by the sea, in the special triple-knit texture."

Instructions for man's zipped jacket

Note: instructions are given for 2 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 136 / 142 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across on the last row. [143 / 150 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change back to No 6 needles and continue in pattern until 3 complete patterns have been completed from the start.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 103 / 98 stitches remain. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 41 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: rib 21 / 28 and slip these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder, cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape as follows:
Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [27 / 27 sts]
Break yarn and leave these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the last 21 / 28 stitches; cast on 3, and rib to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Continue in pattern, casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 46 / 53 stitches, taking the cast on stitches into the pattern as they are made, and ending at the side edge.

Now continue in pattern over all stitches, until front matches back at side edge, ending with wrong side facing.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape raglan armhole:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 / 22 rows. [59 / 54 sts]
Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge at the beginning of every alternate row until 36 / 37 stitches remain, thus ending with right side facing.

Shape neck:

Next row: cast off 12 / 13, pattern to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. P2. Cast off.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: pattern 52 / 52 and slip the remaining 21 / 28 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 27 stitches remain, ending at the front edge.

Break yarn and leave these 27 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to last 21 / 28 stitches.
Next row: cast on 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [46 / 53 sts]. Break wool.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn at front edge, and continue in pattern over all stitches, and finish to correspond with right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 48 / 52 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 11 / 14 stitches evenly across on the last row. [59 / 66 sts]

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 6 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 109 / 110 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Then continue straight until the 34th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 18 rows. [65 / 66 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5 / 6 stitches remain, ending with right side facing. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Collar

Join raglan seams, matching patterns.
With No 7 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 28 stitches round right side of neck, knit the 5 / 6 sleeve stitches, knit 41 /42 from
back increasing 8/5 stitches evenly across as you go, knit 5/6 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 28 stitches round left side of neck.
[115 / 115 sts.]

Next row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more

Next row (increases): rib 4, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it; rib to last 4 stitches, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it, rib 4.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Repeat the last 4 rows until the collar is 5 inches deep at the centre back, taking the increased stitches into the rib pattern.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Linings an Borders

Linings: With No 6 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 32 stitches along top slope of each pocket and work 4 inches in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off.
Borders: With No 7 needles, pick up and knit 34 stitches along lower slope of each pocket and work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib,
Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join side and sleeve seams matching patterns.
Catch down pocket linings and borders to main work.
Work a row of double crochet (US = single crochet) along the edge of each front.
Insert zip fastener into front opening, allowing crochet edging to
meet over zip to conceal it.
Press all seams as before.

Materials

Aran yarn:
18 / 19 x 2oz balls in in gendarme blue

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

A zip fastener (double-ended - suitable for a jacket).
[Editor's note: no length is suggested for the zip, and probably better to measure, or monitor the length as you make the jacket.]

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
39-40 / 41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 27½ / 27½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18½ / 18½ inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2023

Highland Harmony

HighlandHarmony.jpg

A fairly timeless design for a man's Fair-Isle sweater in lovely muted shades of Shetland wool. As I love this kind of colourwork, and I love men's fashions, it's definitely a hit with me - a lovely gift for a (very) deserving man...

Instructions:

The pullover is given in one (medium man's) size and is worked using the Fair-Isle technique, with colours not in use stranded loosely across back of work.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 175 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles, and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart thus: reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 87 pattern stitch repeat twice across.

HighlandHarmonyChart-main2.jpg

HighlandHarmonyChart-key.jpg

Continue working rows from the chart until the 12th row of the 4th pattern repeat has been completed. **

Armhole shaping: cast off 13 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until the 18th row of the 6th pattern repeat has been completed.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for the back until **.

Armhole and neck Shaping:
Next row: cast off 13, pattern 74. Turn.
Purl back in pattern.
Continue on these 75 stitches only.
Next row: knit in pattern to last 4 stitches; k2tog, k2.
Next row: purl in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 61 stitches remain, then decrease in the same way at the neck edge on every 4th row until 52 stitches remain.
Work 7 rows.
Cast off.

Join wool to inner (neck) edge of the remaining stitches.
Cast off 1 stitch, and complete to match the first side, working "sl1, k1, psso" instead of k2tog for the neck shaping.

Sleeves

Begin at the top of the sleeve.

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 135 stitches. Knit one row.

Beginning with the 16th row of the chart (a purl row worked from left to right), work thus:
Work 1 stitch to the right of the dotted line, work the (next 6 stitches) 5 times, work the last stitch.

HighlandHarmonyChart-sleeve2.jpg

Continue in pattern as set, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 5th row until 87 stitches remain.
Continue straight until 4 complete patterns have been worked.
Work the first 3 rows again.

Continue with main shade only and work 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and work 3 inches in rib as for the back. Cast off ribwise.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left front neck, 1 stitch from centre front, 54 stitches up right front neck, and 50 stitches across back neck. [159 sts]

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row, then work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row.
Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join the left shoulder and neckband seams.
Set in sleeves, joining 1½ inches of the sides of the sleeves to the cast off groups at the armhole.
Join the side and sleeve seams.
Fold the neckband in half to the wrong side and catch stitch in place.

Materials

Shetland 2 ply jumper weight (fingering yarn):
7 x 1oz balls in main shade plus 1 oz each in 9 contrast colours: green, grey/brown (light and dark), pink, yellow (light and dark), moss green, mauve, white.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 32 rows to 4 inches over Fair Isle stitch.
[This is basically a 4 ply equivalent]

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 40-42 inches.
Length: 25½ inches.
Sleeve: 20½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original yarn "Real Shetland Knitting Wool 2 ply jumper weight" stated as available from a supplier in Edinburgh is likely to be the 2 ply jumper weight from Jamieson and Smith. It's a 4 ply equivalent specifically designed for Fair Isle knitting, and is available in 25g balls from a number of different suppliers in an extensive range of colours.
Editors note: Sadly you have to pay somewhat more than the 19p price per ball quoted for the original yarn in the 1970s!

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2023

Plain Jane (or John) Layette

PlainBabyLayette.jpg

Delightfully plain and simple outfit for a new baby. Cardigans are (I am told) the most useful for small babies - trousers optional - and the bootees - well, they are always just impossibly cute aren't they? (even if they rarely stay attached to the baby!).

Instructions.

The cardigan is worked as one piece, starting with the two front, pieces worked separately, then joining them to complete the lower back

Cardigan left front:

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 34 stitches and knit 2 rows.

Shape front hem, by working short rows as given below, noting that after the first 8 rows in garter stitch (every row knitted), you start to work in stocking stitch (right-side rows knitted, wrong-side rows in purl) on the first 27 stitches, and keep the last 7 front edge stitches (the curved edge) in garter stitch to form the front band

Next row: k26. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k27. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k29. Turn, knit back to end.
[Editors note: this is where you start to work the stocking stitch section, keeping the front band in garter stitch.]

Next row: k30. Turn, work back to end.
Next row: k32. Turn, work back to end.
Next row: k34. Turn, work back to end.

Continue straight, with the 7 front edge stitches in garter stitch and the 27 side edge stitches in stocking stitch, until work measures 4¾ inches from the start of the stocking stitch, (about 46 rows), ending with a wrong side row.
Cast on 34 stitches at the side edge to create the left sleeve. [68 sts].
Now continue, but working 7 stitches in garter stitch at both edges...
[Editors note:this makes a garter stitch cuff at the sleeve end, and continues the front band.]
...until work measures 6¼ inches from the start of the stocking stitch, (about 62 rows), ending with a right side row.

Shape neck, by casting off stitches at the front edge as follows:

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 7 stitches at the front edge, work to end of row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. [54 sts]

Continue straight, as set, keeping the sleeve cuff in garter stitch, until work measures 7¾ inches (about 76 rows), ending with right side facing for the next row.
Break yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

Cardigan right front:

Work as for the left front, reversing all shapings, and placing 3 buttonholes at the front edge on the 4th, 30th, and 56th row of the stocking stitch.
[Editors note:they rather leave you to your own devices here with the buttonholes. I suggest creating eyelets in the garter stitch band, by knitting 3 stitches in from the edge, yarn over, k2tog, k2. You could choose to put the buttonholes on either the right or left front.]

When you have completed the 76 rows on the right front, join the two fronts together to knit the back:

Cardigan back

Next (joining) row (right side facing): knit 54 stitches from the left front; cast on 22 stitches for the back neck; knit 54 stitches from the right front. [130 sts].

Continue straight for 31 rows, keeping the 7 stitches at each end in garter stitch, for the two sleeve cuffs.

Cast off 34 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [62 sts].
Continue in stocking stitch for 46 rows (no garter stitch borders), then finish with 8 rows of garter stitch.
Cast off all stitches.

Collar

Using No 11 needles, cast on 11 stitches and knit 2 rows.

Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.

Shape collar:

Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Knit 8 rows across all 11 stitches.
Repeat the last 12 rows, 12 times more.

Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Knit 2 rows across all 11 stitches.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.

Cast off.

Making up the cardigan

Join side and sleeve seams.
Attach Collar to right side of cardigan using back stitch.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

4ply fingering yarn in 50g balls:
Cardigan: 2 balls.
Trousers: 1 ball.
Bootees: 1 ball

Nos 11 (3mm) needles.
3 buttons.
Elastic for trouser waistband.

Tension

28sts x 32 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit one size up to 3 months.
Chest: 18 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward" / "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1: slip one stitch.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a synthetic mix of acrylic and rayon (which gave it a ply of a silky thread), and a small percentage of wool.
Approximately 160m per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


Trousers Front

* Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 27 stitches, and work in garter stitch for 8 rows.
Then work 8 rows in stocking stitch, * and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

Make a second leg by repeating these instructions from * to *.

Then join the two legs by knitting across these 27 stitches from the second leg, cast on 8 stitches, and knit across the 27 stitches from the first leg. [62 sts]
**

Work straight on these 62 stitches in stocking stitch for 5½ inches ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: knit.
[Editors note:this makes a ridge to mark the fold line for creating the channel at the waist for the elastic.]

Starting with a knit row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch as before.
Cast off.

Trousers Back

Work as for Front from * to **.
Work straight in stocking stitch on these stitches for 5 inches ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by working as follows:

Next row: Work to the last 3 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 3 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 9 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 9 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 12 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 12 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 15 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 15 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 18 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 18 stitches. Turn.

Work 3 rows across all 62 stitches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: knit.
Starting with a knit row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Making up the trousers

Join side and leg seams.
Fold down the top of front and back to the wrong side, and slipstitch the hem in place
Insert the elastic.


Bootees

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 38 stitches, and work for 8 rows in garter stitch.
Then work 16 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: k2, * k2tog, yon; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: k24. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: p10. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 10 stitches for a further 16 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.
Break yarn and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn and knit 14 stitches from spare needle; knit up 12 stitches along the side of the rows just worked; knit across 10 stitches from spare needle; knit 12 stitches down the other side of the rows just worked; knit across 14 stitches from spare needle. [62 sts]

Work 8 rows in garter stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.
Break yarn.

Shape Sole:

Slip the first 26 stitches on to the right hand needle (or "working" needle if you are left handed), and rejoin yarn to work the centre 10 sole stitches; knit 9, k2tog, turn.
Next row: k9, k2tog, turn.
Repeat the last row, gradually decreasing stitches either side of the centre sole until 22 stitches remain.

Cast off.

Finishing:

Join back seam, and join sole at the back.

Make a cord by cast on 100 stitches; knit one row, then cast off.
Thread cord through eyelet holes in bootee.

Make a second bootee in the same way.

October 2022

Knitted trouser suit

SixtiesTrouserSuit.jpg

Having spent years making tongue-in-cheek comments about knitted trousers, I find they seemed to become a kind of pandemic fashion item - safely out of site during Zoom meetings. I'm not sure the fashion was really for anything like hand-knitted trousers; however, sitting (unobserved!) in my poorly-insulated chilly office at the top of the house, cosy woollen trousers are taking on some kind of appeal.
Even if the trousers don't appeal, there is a rather nice matching low-belted long-line cable sweater - very much of the period.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 94 (106, 116) stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 7 (5, 10), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 7; repeat from * to last 7 (5, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 6 (4, 9).
[105 (119, 129) sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4; repeat from * once, p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times, k5 (4, 1).
2nd row: p30 (37, 42); * k4, p4, k4, p21; repeat from * once, p9 (16, 21).
3rd row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
4th row: work as for 2nd row.
5th row: work as for 1st row.
6th row: work as for 2nd row.
7th row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
8th row: work as for 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 16 inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 81 (89, 99) stitches remain.

* Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern 20 (22, 25), including the stitch used in casting off. Turn, leaving the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: w2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, w2tog. Repeat the last 2 rows once.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

With wrong side of work facing, join in yarn at the neck edge and work to end.
Next row (wrong side facing): pattern 23 (26, 30) stitches, w2tog.
Turn, leaving the centre 31 (33, 35) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
W2tog at the neck edge on the next 3 rows.
Next row: Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to end.
Work 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from * to *.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 4½ (5, ) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:
Next row: Pattern 30 (33, 37) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending at armhole edge.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
Slip the centre 21 (23, 25) stitches on to a spare needle.
Join in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, pattern to end.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7½ (8, ) from the start of the armhole shaping, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 52 (54, 56) stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 5 (4, 7), * work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (8, 13); repeat from * to last 5 (5, 7) stitches; work twice into next stitch, rib 4 (4, 6). [60 stitches].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and rib pattern.
1st row (right side facing): p4, * k4, p4; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p4, k4, repeat from * to end.

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Increase and work into rib pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 12th (9th, 7th) row until there are 76 (82, 88) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16½ (17, 17½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58, 64) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 36 (42, 46) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 22 (24, 24) stitches remain.
Cast off.

Jumper Shoulder Edging

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for ¾ inch.

1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over cast off stitches in previous row.
Work 1¾ (2, ) inches in rib, measured from base of buttonhole.
Work another buttonhole.
Work ¾ (1, 1¼) inches in rib, measured from base of previous buttonhole and ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.
Work a second piece to match, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join right shoulder seam.
With right side of work facing and using No 10 needles, rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging with buttonholes; pick up and k13
stitches down left side of front neck; knit across the 21 (23, 25) stitches at centre front; pick up and knit 15 stitches up right side of front neck; 7 stitches down right side of back neck; knit across the 31
(33, 35) stitches at the centre back, pick up and knit 4 stitches up left side of back neck, then rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging without buttonholes. [113 (117, 121) sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: k1, * p 1, k1 , repeat from * end.

Continue in rib, making a third buttonhole 1¾ (2, ) inches from base of previous buttonhole.
Change to No 11 needles and work a further ½ inch in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Jumper Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 36 (38, 40) inches, ending with a wrong side row. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following
alternate row until 3 stitches remain.
Knit 3 together, and fasten off.

Belt Tabs (Make 4):

Using No 10 needles, cast on 7 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p 1, * k 1, p 1, repeat from to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 ½ inches, ending with a wrong side row. Cast off in rib.

Making Up Jumper

Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Stitch Shoulder Edgings to left shoulder with a flat stitch.
Sew in sleeves, overlapping Shoulder Edging.
Sew on buttons.
Stitch belt tabs into position as shown in photograph.
Sew buckle to straight edge of belt.
Slot belt through tabs.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 25g balls.

Jumper:
22 (24, 26)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 10 (3¼mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

3 buttons.
1 buckle.

Trousers:
23 (25, 28)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

6 inch zip.
Elastic to fit waist.
1 trouser clip.

Tension

22 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch

Size matters

Jumper: to fit chest 30-31, (34-35, 37-38)
actual measurement
32 (36, 39) inches; length: 32 (36, 39) inches; sleeve seam: 16½ (17, 17½) inches.

Trousers: to fit hips 32-33 (35-36, 38-39) inches;
inside leg seam:
28 (28, 28) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
w2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
sl3F: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at front of work.
sl3B: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at back of work.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
sl1K: slip the next knitwise.
sl1P: slip the next purlwise.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting, 100% superwash wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Trousers Right Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k53 (57, 61); p2, k9, p2; k55 (59, 63).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k53 (57, 61); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k55 (59, 63).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k53 (57, 61); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k55 (59, 63).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 44 (48, 52), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 64 (68, 72), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Next row: k2tog, work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 45 (49, 53), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: Work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 43 (47, 51), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26), [k2tog] twice, work 35 (37, 39), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 77 (85, 93), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 17 (19, 21), k2tog, work to end. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work 15 (17, 19), k2tog, work 32 (34, 36), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 67 (71, 75), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Next row (wrong side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Left Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k55 (59, 63); p2, k9, p2; k53 (57, 61).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k55 (59, 63); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k53 (57, 61).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k55 (59, 63); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k53 (57, 61).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 49 (53, 57), m1, work to end. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 53 (57, 61), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 55 (59, 63), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 56 (60, 64), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 59 (63, 67), m1, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work 35 (37, 39), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 20 (20, 20), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 56 (60, 64), k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 32 (34, 36), k2tog, work 15 (17, 19), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 15 (19, 23), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row (right side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Waistband

Using backstitch, join front and inside leg seams.
With right side of work facing, and using No 10 (3¼mm) needles pick up and knit 160 (176, 192) stitches evenly around waistband from centre back seam to centre back seam.
Commencing with a purl row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Next row: Knit (this row marks the fold line).
Commencing with a knit row, work a further 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off fairly loosely.

Making Up Trousers

Sew in zip to centre back seam, placing top of zip in line with base of waistband, then join
remainder of seam.
Turn waist and ankle hems onto wrong side and slip stitch down.
Thread elastic through waistband and secure at each end.
Sew trouser clip to waistband.

September 2022

Pop Socks

PopSocks.jpg

These socks are made using 2 needles, with one main colour and 4 contrasts. Of course, you can have as many contrasts as you like, and it would be good for using up lots of bright leftovers yarns; however it's always good to have a consistent main colour to tie it all together.
Alternatively you could easily substitute a suitably cheerful self-striping yarn either for the contrast stripes, or used plain throughout, allowing it to do its thing.
whatever you choose, complete the look with clogs*.
Just the thing to jazz up your jeans. Make them with or without toes — and the brighter the better!

* note: if you knit separate toes, it might be a bit overcrowded in clogs...

Instructions.

The socks are worked on two needles.

Right Leg

**

Using No 11 needles and colour A, cast on 80 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): p1, * k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2 inches (5cm) from the start, ending with a wrong side row.

Join in colour B. Beginning with a knit row, continue in stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl), working in striped sequence of 4 rows B, 2 rows A, 4 rows C, 2 rows A, 4 rows D, 2 rows A, 4 rows E and 2 rows A throughout.
Continue in pattern until work measures 5 inches (12½cm) from the start, ending with a purl row.

Shape leg:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches k2tog, k1.

Keeping striped sequence correct. Continue in this way, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 60 stitches remain.
Continue without shaping until work measures 13½ inches (34½ cm)
from the start, or required length, ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for heel and instep

With right side of work facing, slip the first 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the heel.
Keeping the striped sequence correct, knit the next 30 stitches for the instep; turn; slip the last 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the other side of the heel.

Instep

Work 6½ inches (16½cm) in the striped sequence for the instep, ending with 2 rows in colour A (wrong side row).

Editor's note: Now you need to decide if you want "normal" socks, or socks with separate toes - useful for bar-toe sandals! - and if you are knitting toes then you leave the stitches on a stitch holder at this point while you continue to knit the heel.

Shape instep top without toes ("normal" sock)

Next row: Using colour A throughout, k1,sl1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Next row: purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Version including toes

Break off yarn and leave the stitches on a holder while you continue with the instructions to shape the heel.

Shape heel

Editor's note: heel shaping instructions for both versions of sock, with or without toes.

Slip the 30 stitches you previously left on holders on to the needle, placing the outside edges together in the middle.
Editor's note: you have curled the edges of the sock round to form a tube shape - but you continue to knit the heel just on these 30 stitches, back and forth using 2 needles.

Using colour A and with right side of work facing, shape the heel, working short rows as follows:

1st row (right side facing): sl1 knitwise, k28. Turn.
2nd row: sl1 purlwise, p27. Turn.
3rd row: sl1 knitwise, k26. Turn.
4th row: sl1 purlwise, p25. Turn.

Continue in this way, working one stitch less on every row until you have worked the row: "sl1 purlwise, p13. Turn." has been completed, leaving 8 stitches unworked at each side.

Next row: sl1 knitwise, k13. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and knit it together with the next stitch. Turn.
Next row: sl1 purlwise, p14. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and purl it together with the next stitch. Turn.

Continue working one more stitch on every row until you have picked up all the stitches and there are 30 stitches.
Matching the striped sequence with that on the instep, knit the sole by continuing in stocking stitch without shaping until the sole measures the same as the instep.

Shape sole top without toes ("normal" sock)

Shape the top by working exactly the same as for the instep shaping.

**

Version including toes

Having completed the heel, return to the instep stitches that you left on a holder.

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across instep stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the sole. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Using A throughout, and working on these 24 stitches, work 16 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Second toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour B, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the big toe. K5 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using B throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 14 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Third toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour C, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the second toe.
K5 stitches, turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using C throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the third toe shaping as given for second toe.

Fourth toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour D, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the third toe. K4 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p13, turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [15 sts]

Using D throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog all across the row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Little toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour E, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the fourth toe. Knit to end. Turn.
Next row: purl to end. [15 sts]

Using E throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the little toe shaping as given for the fourth toe.


Left Leg

Work as for right leg from ** to **.
This completes the version without separate toes.

Version including toes

Set the position of the toes for the left foot as follows:

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across the sole stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the instep. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Complete the big, second, third, fourth, and little toes, as given for the right leg.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly under a damp cloth with
a warm iron.
Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).
Sew in all ends.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 4 ply yarn in main shade (A) and 1 ball in each of 4 contrast colours (B, C, D, and E).

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
Stitch holders.

Tension

30 sts x 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit and "average" adult foot: 9/9½ inches (23/24cm). Length from top of heel: 13½ inches (34½ cm).

Abbreviations

sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a superwash 4ply. These days there is a huge choice of wool for socks, but I would recommend some nylon content.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2022

Choose Tweed

TweedDress.jpg

This wasn't my original choice for this month, but recently I have noticed a trend for monochrome wool dresses in some fashion articles. Not too hard to knit as the two-colour effect is formed by slipping stitches - so only one colour in any one row.

Instructions.

A tweed dress in 3 sizes (small/medium/large).

Back

**
Using No 8 (4mm) needles lighter tweed colour (L), cast on 129/135/141 stitches, and begin working in the two-colour pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Purl in L - do not break yarn L.
2nd row: Join in darker contrast D, p1, * with wool at front, sl1, p1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Using D, p1, * wool back, sl1, wool forward, p1; repeat from * to end - do not break yarn D.
4th row: Purl in L.
5th row: Purl in L - do not break yarn L.
6th row: Using D, p2, * with wool at front, sl1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
7th row: Using D, p2, * wool back, sl1, wool forward, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1 - do not break yarn D.
8th row: Purl in L.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight until back measures 3 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape skirt as follows:
1st decrease row: p42/44/46, p3tog, p39/41/43, p3tog, p42/44/
46. [125/131/137 sts]

Work straight until back measures 6 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
2nd decrease row: p41/43/45, p3tog, p37/39/41, p3tog, p41/43/45. [121/127/133 sts]

Work straight until back measures 9 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
3rd decrease row: p40/42/44, p3tog, p35/37/39, p3tog, p40/42/44. [117/123/129 sts]

Work straight until back measures 12 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.

Continue in this way, decreasing 4 stitches on every 1st or 5th pattern row at 3 inch intervals, until 97/103/109 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 29½ inches down centre, ending with 2nd or 6th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 75/79/83 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 31/31½/32 inches, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for back opening:
Next row: pattern 37/39/41, turn, and leave remaining 38/40/42 stitches on a spare needle.

Continue straight on these 37/38/41 stitches for first side, until back measures 36½/37/37½ inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6/7/8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7/7/7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Cast off remaining 17/18/19 stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off the centre stitch, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
[75/79/83 sts]

Work straight until front measures 34/34½/35 inches, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:

Next row: pattern 28/29/30, turn, and leave remaining 47/50/53 stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work straight in pattern.

Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 20/21/22 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches, cast off the centre 19/21/23 stitches, and pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with the first side.

To Make Up

Press parts or block lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Facing:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and D colour, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 20/21/22 stitches across left side of back, 17 down left side of front, 19/21/23 from the centre front, 17 up right side of front, and 20/21/22 across right side of back.
[93/97/101 sts]
Work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch for 5 rows, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Armhole Facing:
With right side facing,
Using No 10 needles and D colour, pick up and knit 88/94/100 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 5 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Join side seams.
Join armhole facing.
Fold neck and armhole facings to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position all round, so that the stitches do not show through on the right side.
Insert zip into back opening, allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams lightly on wrong side.

Materials

Double knitting:
15/17/19 x 1oz balls in lighter coloured tweed ;
8/9/10 balls in darker solid colour.

Pair each of
No 8 (4mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

6 inch zip.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles over pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 inches;
length from top of shoulders:
36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
p3tog: purl 3 stitches together
stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
L: lighter tweed
D: darker contrast

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was pure wool in a standard DK weight.
Yardage is not given but I would not expect it to be longer than average for a pure wool.
Given the requirement for tweed I might use Rowan felted tweed for both colours as it is a favourite of mine, and not too heavy a weight, which I might be concerned about with a dress made in a textured stitch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2022

Gentlemen prefer...

GentlemenPreferGrey.jpg

well... they prefer... grey if my experience is anything to go by (whether it's 50 shades or maybe just 2); even the muted coloured stripe is a risk. However, colour choices are easily adapted to the taste of the wearer, and in my case: I love stripes (both wearing and knitting them), whatever the colours.
Otherwise - the greys have it.

Instructions.

A man's plain loose sweater in 3 sizes (small medium and large).

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 118/122/126 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in dark grey contrast (G) to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 2 / 3 / 4 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[120/125/130 sts].
Work in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M.

After the first 12 rows of the seventh stripe (which is in in colour G), shape the armholes by casting off 9/10/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [102/105/108 sts].

Change to colour R and work 14 rows for the 8th stripe.

Change to colour G and continue in striped stocking stitch alternating between colours G and M.
When work measures 26¼ / 26¾ / 27¼ inches, shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, k7/8/9, cast off centre 50/51/52, knit to end.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, p7/8/9 and then turn, leaving the 8/9/10 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.
Next row: k8/9/10, turn, cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and purl 8/9/10. Turn and cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder

Front

Work as for back until work measures 23¼ / 23½ / 24 inches.

Keeping continuity of the striped pattern shape neck as follows:
Next row: k43/44/45, cast off the centre 16/17/18 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: p43/44/45 and leave the remaining 43/44/45 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder while you complete the left front separately.

At the beginning of the next row cast off 4 stitches. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row, cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With wrong side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Knit 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the left front.

With wrong side facing, return to the stitches for the right side of the front, rejoin the yarn to the neck edge, and cast off 4 stitches, purl to end. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With right side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Purl 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the right front.

Sleeves

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 66/70/74 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½/4/ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.
[Editor's note: You may be puzzled by the largest size having a smaller sleeve welt. This is to keep the sleeve length correct overall, while trying to keep to an exact sequence of the stripes.]

With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in contrast to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 18/19/20 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[84/89/94 sts].
Working in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M, as before; however, for the largest size 3, begin the stocking stitch with a stripe of main colour M, followed by G. This will ensure you end at the top of the sleeve with a stripe in the dark contrast G, as shown in the photo.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th row, 11 times.
[106/111/116 sts].

Continue until work measures 20 / 20¾ / 21½ inches from the beginning, [Editor's note: This should be 126/128/140 rows in stocking stitch.], which should be an exact number of stripes, ending with the darker grey colour G - for the second (medium) size you should work 16 rows in colour G on this last stripe.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts or block lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
Using the set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), pick up and knit 128/132/132 stitches evenly around the neck.
Work 3 rounds in K2/P2 rib, the 6 rounds in main shade (M), then 3 rounds in colour R. Cast off in rob using R.

Sew in sleeves. [Editor's note: The instructions are not explicit on this point but as the top of the sleeve is a straight edge, I would be inclined to sew it to the straight edge of the armhole, and sew the top half inch of the side of the sleeve to the cast off stitches of the armhole.]
Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Diagram showing dimensions for smallest size:

Materials

Double knitting yarn:
6/6/7 x 50g balls in light grey (M);
5/6/6 balls in darker grey (G);
1/2/2 ball dark red (R)

Pair each of
No 11 (3mm), and
No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles.
One set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to four inches on 3½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 / 42 / 44 inches,
[actual sizes approximately 2 inches larger];
length from top of shoulders:
26¼ / 26¾ /27¼ inches;
sleeve seam:
19½ / 20 / 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
M: main light grey
G: mid grey
R: wine red

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was mixed fibre double knitting equivalent.
Yardage was approximately 140 meters (153 yards) per 50g ball; this is the key point to note when substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

January 2022

Set Up for the Cold

SetUpForTheCold.jpg

A "long, long" scarf worked in bands of stripes and jacquard pattern, with a matching pull-on hat and gloves to complete the set. These are all knitted in a lighter weight yarn, but the scarf is double thickness so will be very snug; it's also pretty long, so check that's what you want, as obviously you can make it to whatever length you like.

Instructions

The scarf is worked on 4 needles in the round to make a tube, which is then flattened; the result is a flat scarf with two layers of knitted fabric, and means you don't have to worry about seeing the "wrong side" of the knitting. This is a standard way to make - especially commercial - scarves. Although often seen made in the round, both the hat and the gloves are worked flat on two needles, with a seam making them into the required round shape. It would be simple enough to adapt this pattern and make the hat in the round, especially as you have the method given for the scarf. If this is your first attempt at gloves, however, making them flat may be a good way to start.

Scarf

Using the set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or the circular needle - cast on 112 sts in Main Shade (A).
Work in rounds of stocking stitch (every round knit).

Pattern as follows:

**
1st and 2nd rounds: using B knit.
3rd and 4th rounds: using A knit.
5th and 6th rounds: using C knit.
7th and 8th rounds: using D knit.
9th and 10th rounds: using E knit.
11th - 23rd rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 1.
24th - 33rd rounds: repeat rows 1-10.
**
34th - 46th rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 2.

These 46 rounds form the pattern.
Repeat these rounds 10 times more, then the 1st to the 33rd rounds again.

Cast off using A.

To make up the Scarf

Darn in all ends on the wrong side.
Press gently under a damp cloth using a warm iron.
Turn the scarf right side out.
Cut yarn A into 20½ cm (8 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe through both thicknesses of both short ends at 1½ cm (½ inch) intervals.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a knitted tube, and you are now flattening it (to make the scarf double thickness); you then attach the fringe to each straight end, through both edges - which also serves to close the ends of the tube instead of sewing them together (but you might want to sew them anyway).]
Trim the fringe.


Hat

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on loosely 144 stitches. Work 20 rows K1/P1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [145 sts]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles. Continue in stocking stitch with the same pattern as given for the scarf but knitting back and forth in rows, not in the round. Work from ** to **, with every alternate row being purl. Then continue, repeating rows 1 - 10 only throughout.

Continue in pattern until work measures 18cm (7 inches) from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape the crown

Decrease for the crown, keeping the continuity of the striped pattern:
1st decrease row: k5, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k9) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k5. [121 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
2nd decrease row: k4, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k7) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k4. [97 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
3rd decrease row: k3, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k5) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k3. [73 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
4th decrease row: k2, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k3) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k2. [49 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
5th decrease row: (k2tog, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog) 7 times. [21 sts]
Purl one row.
Next row: (sl1, k2tog, psso) 7 times.
Break off yarn, and thread through remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Press as given for the scarf.
Join the centre back seam, taking care to reverse the seam on brim (which folds back).
Fold the brim in half to the right side.


Gloves

Note: When working the gloves, use separate balls of yarn for the palm and thumb, twisting the yarns at the back of the work when changing colours.

Right hand glove

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 56 stitches.
Work 26 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 11 (3 mm) needles, and beginning with a knit row work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Start thumb shaping:

1st row: using first ball of B, k28; using A, increase one stitch in each of the next 2 stitches, k1; using a 2nd ball of B, k25.
2nd row: using B, p25; using A, p5; using B, p28.
3rd row: using A, knit to end.
4th row: using A, purl to end.
5th row: using C, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k2, increase in the next stitch, k1; using C, K25.
6th row: using C, p25; using A, p7; using C, p28.
7th row: using D, k28; using A, k7; using D, k25.
8th row: using D, p25; using A, p7; using D, p28.
9th row: using E, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k4, increase in the next stitch, k1; using E, k25.
10th row: using E, p25; using A, p9; using E; p27, increase in the last stitch. [63 sts including 9 thumb sts]

Continue in pattern as given for chart, increasing the thumb stitches as before on the 3rd and then every foil 4th row until the 24th row has been completed, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.

Thumb:

Next row: using B, k28; using A, k16 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches. [20 sts]
***
Beginning with a knit row, work 18 rows in stocking stitch.

[Editor's note: For this method you keep all the stitches on the needles as you work the thumb and each finger separately. At this point for the thumb, you keep 28 stitches unworked on the right hand needle, and 25 stitches unworked on the left hand needle, while you work on the centre 16 stitches (which you have increased to 20 by casting on 2 extra stitches on each side. You knit the thumb flat, back and forth up to the tip, then you fasten off and sew it up into the thumb shape.]

Shape top:
Next row: (k2tog, k2) 5 times.
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 7 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
Join seam.

With right side of work facing and using B, knit up 4 stitches from the base of the thumb, knit to end. [57 sts]
[Editor's note: With right side facing, you have 28 stitches already on the right hand needle; you rejoin the yarn at the centre where the thumb is, and start by picking up the 4 stitches that you cast on, which are now wrapped round to meet at the base of the thumb. You then knit the 25 stitches on the left hand needle. Don't worry if you end up with small holes showing at the base of the thumb, (or, later, the fingers) as you can pull them in later when you sew in the ends from the join.]
Beginning with a purl row work one row in B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows D, 2 rows E and 4 rows A, ending with a purl row.
Continue in A only.

Divide for fingers:

1st finger
Next row: k36, turn and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows in stocking stitch on these 18 stitches.

Shape top:
**
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 4 times, k2. [14 sts]
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2 tog) 7 times.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
**
Join seam.

2nd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 1st finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 28 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete to match first finger, working from ** to **.
Join seam.

3rd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 2nd finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Complete to match 2nd finger.
Join seam.

4th finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 3rd finger, k6.
Beginning with a purl row, continue in stocking stitch across all remaining stitches for 19 rows.

Shape top
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 5 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
***

Left hand glove

Work as given for right hand glove, reversing the pattern and the position of thumb as follows:

1st row: using 1st ball of B, k25; using A, increase one stitch in each of
the next 2 stitches, k1; using 2nd ball of B, k28.

Continue as given for right hand glove until 24th row of pattern has been completed.

Thumb

Next row: using B, k24; using A, k16, turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18, turn and cast on 2 stitches.

Complete as given for right hand glove working from *** to ***.

To make up

Press as given for scarf.
Join side seam and 4th finger seam.

Materials

25g balls of 4 ply (fingering) yarn:

Scarf: 4 balls in main shade A
5 balls in contrast B
4 balls in contrast C
2 balls in contrast D
2 balls in contrast E

One set of 4 3¼mm (UK 10) double pointed needles (dpn), or a circular needle.

Hat and gloves:
3 balls in main shade A
1 ball in each of the contrast colours B, C, D, and E.

One pair of 3mm (UK 11), and one pair of 2¾mm (UK 12) needles

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on 3¼ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 20½ cm (8 inches) wide, by 183cm (72 inches) long, excluding the fringe
Hat: to fit an average adult head.
Gloves: to fit an average adult hand.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply superwash wool; about 92 yards (84 m) per 25g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2021

Snug Gown for Bedtime

SnugToddlerGown.jpg

The cutest hooded gown made in a soft chunky yarn - perfect for bedtime, (or other occasions, as it is described as a "coat"). The lower section has a design of kittens - and there is a cute toy cat to match.

Instructions

The pattern is given in 3 sizes: 12 (18 : 24) months. Where only one set of instructions is given it applies to all sizes.
The body of the gown is worked as one piece up to the armholes.

Sleeves

With 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 22 (24 : 26) stitches and work 3 (3 : 4) cm in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Work 1 row in purl increasing 7 stitches evenly across the row.
[29 (31 : 33) sts].

Now change to 6mm needles and stocking stitch following the Fair Isle colour pattern in the chart for the sleeve:

For the first size, begin with 1 stitch in black (B) then 1 in main shade (M); for the second size, begin with 1M, 1B, 1M; for the third size, begin with 4M, 1B, 1M, 1B, 1M.
Then follow the 16 stitch repeat shown in the chart.
At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 7th (8th : 10th) row 3 times, taking the stitches into the pattern.
[35 (37 : 39) sts].
Then work 3 (4 : 6) more rows, and then place a stitch marker or piece of coloured thread at each end of the row.

Continue in stocking stitch: for the smallest size, work the last 3 rows of the chart, then purl one row in main shade; for the second and third sizes work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Then for all sizes, change to 5mm needles and finish by working 4 rows in garter stitch.

Leave the stitches on a stitch holder or spare needle and work a second sleeve in the same way.

Body (knitted as a single piece)

Using size 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 113 (121 : 129) stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch.

Change to 6mm needles and work 2 (2 : 6) rows in stocking stitch.

Continue stocking stitch and follow the Fair-Isle pattern working from the charts.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 1, commencing with 1M, 1B, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, as indicated.

Now work the 19 rows of the cat pattern from Chart 2, 4 times across the row, placing 3 (5 : 7) stitches between each group, and working 2 (3 : 4) stitches in main shade before the first and after the last group.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 3, commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.
Next, work 10 (17 : 17) rows of Chart 4, commencing 1M, 1B, 5M, then repeating the 16 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, 5M, 1B, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 2 rows as in Chart 3, as before, (commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated).

Work 3 (2 : 2) rows in stocking stitch, and (wrong side facing) work 4 rows in garter stitch.

At this point you have completed 58 (64 : 68) rows and your work should measure 32 (35 : 38) cm.

Now you must divide the work and continue knitting the back and fronts separately.

Change to 5mm needles and work in k1/p1 rib as follows, casting off some stitches for the armholes, as well as decreasing across the row.

Next (right side facing, decrease) row: k2, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1; place these 23 (25, 27 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 23 (25, 27) stitches will form the right front.]

...and continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, k1; place these 47 (51, 55 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 47 (51, 55) stitches will form the back.]

And continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1.
[Editor's note: You are now going to continue to work on this last section of 23 (25, 27) stitches to complete the left front
.]

Upper Left Front

Next row (wrong side facing): p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With right side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Right Front

Rejoin yarn to the right front section at the front edge.

Next row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Back section

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches in the centre.
Next row (wrong side facing)
: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [47 (51 : 55) sts]

Work a further 26 (28 : 30) rows in k1/p1 rib.

Now shape shoulders and back neck by casting off 5 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib 15 (17 : 19) (including the stitch already on the needle), cast off 7 stitches, and rib to end.
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn, and work each side of the next separately.
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn.
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the right side of the Back neck.

Rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches at the neck edge and, right side facing, rib one row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the left side of the Back neck.

Button Band

Using 5mm needles, cast on 65 (71 : 77) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 5 rows, keeping the 2 stitches at each end of the row in stocking stitch - like this:

Next row: k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

And so on for 5 rows in all.

Purl one row, then knit 3 rows in stocking stitch using waste yarn of a different colour. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or holder.

Make a second (right hand) band in the same way, adding 3 button holes on the 4th row:

4th row: k2, p1, k1, cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib to end.
5th row: p2, then continue in rib as set, casting on 2 stitches over the 3 buttonholes where you cast off on previous row.
6th row: purl.

Complete with 3 rows of waste yarn as before.

Hood

Using 5mm needles, cast on 69 (73 : 75) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 8 rows.

Change to 6mm needles and work 11 (13 : 15) rows in stocking stitch.
With wrong side facing, cast off 6 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
[15 (17 : 19) sts]

Wrong side facing, continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 3 times. [21 (23 : 25) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.

Right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th (6th : 5th) row 3 (3 : 4) times. [15 (17 : 17) sts]
Work 9 (9 : 7) rows straight.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Sew shoulder and sleeve seams up to the coloured markers.
Fit the sleeves to the armholes, grafting the live stitches to the armhole edge, and sewing the sections of the sleeve seam left free to the stitches cast off at the armholes of the body.
[Editor's note: If grafting the stitches makes no sense to you, you can just cast these stitches off in the normal way and then sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole edge - and then sew the marked section of sleeve seam to the cast-off stitches of the body as instructed.
]

Sew the button band, stitch by stitch, to the right side of the work using back stitch, (undo the rows of waste yarn).

Sew up the sides of the hood. Fold the front edge in half inwards and sew round like a hem to make a channel to thread the cord through.
Sew the hood to the neck, making sure you leave the hem open at the ends.
Make a 150cm twisted cord and 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the hem of the hood. Attach the pompoms at each end.
Lightly iron the seams.

Finish the buttonholes with embroidery if desired, and sew on buttons.

Materials

Chunky or Bulky weight yarn in 50g approx 45m balls (see notes below):
7 (8 : 9) balls main pale blue shade (M) "Forget-Me-Not".
2 balls in dark blue/black (B) "Sloe".
2 balls in grey (G) "Mouse".
1 ball in Ecru. (E)

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

3 buttons..

Tension

13 sts and 18 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Chest size:
20 (22 : 24) inches,
52 (56 : 60) cm;

length from top of shoulders:
18 (19½ : 21) ins,
46 (50 : 54) cm;

sleeve seam:
7½ ( : 10) ins,
19 (21 : 25½) cm.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
garter stitch: knit every row.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original was knitted in a soft brushed chunky wool blend. Available information suggests it was sold in 50g balls with a yardage of about 45 metres per ball.

Be very careful in your choice of yarn and quantities when substituting though, as "big wool" can lead to big miscalculations - and needless to say - knit a swatch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Mittens

This is a pattern for a very simple little pair of mittens in matching colours. The mittens are attached to a cord which is threaded through the armholes of a coat so that they can hang free at the ends of the sleeves if removed (and thus don't get lost).

With 5mm needles and dark contrast colour (B), cast on 18 (18 : 20) stitches and work 3 cm in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 6mm needles and work 12 (12 : 14) rows in stocking stitch. Then work as follows:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, k1.
[14 (14 : 16) sts]
Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing, and thread it through the stitch and pull up.


To make up the mittens: sew up the sides.
In colour B, make a 130cm twisted cord and in main shade (M), make 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the sleeves of the coat - if you are making them to go with the pattern above, you can attach the cord to the neck - so it stays permanently in place. Attach the mittens at each end and attach a pompom to each mitten,

CatSleeveDiagram.jpg

CatBodyDiagram.jpg

CatHoodDiagram.jpg

October 2021

Nordic Style Cardigan

NordicCardigan3.jpg

This drop-shoulder design cardigan in cheering Nordic colours is taken from a much-loved and much-handled pattern.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - the larger sizes are shown in brackets.

When working the pattern weave the yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work; do not strand the threads over more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.

Back and Fronts (worked in one piece up to the armholes)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (R), cast on 194 [206, 218] stitches and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

These two rows form the rib. Work a further 31 rows.

Next (increase) row: p9 [12, 4], m1, * p8 [7, 7], m1; repeat from * until p9 [12, 4] stitches remain; purl to end. {217 [233, 249] sts}

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and join in white (W). Weaving in the yarns not in use, work the 2-colour pattern entirely in stocking stitch, beginning, on the right side of the work, with a knit row. Note: only the colours are specified below.

1st row (knit): 3R, * 3W, 5R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 3R instead of 5R.
2nd row (purl): 4R, * 1W, 7R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 4R.
3rd row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
4th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).
5th row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W.
6th row (purl): 1W, * 7R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
7th row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
8th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).

NordicCardigan2ColourChart.jpg

These 8 rows form the 2-colour pattern. Work a further 59 rows, up to the armholes, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Divide to separate back and fronts: With red, (R) p51 [55, 59] stitches; increase in the next stitch and leave these 53 [57, 61] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the left front;
p113 [121, 129] stitches, turn, and leave the remaining 52 [56, 60] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the right front.

Back

On these 113 [121, 129] stitches work the 36 row 3-colour pattern, weaving in the yarns not in use at the back of the work. Once again, the pattern is worked entirely in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row so only the colour details are shown. Join in blue (B).

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
4th row (purl): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
5th row (knit): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
6th row (purl): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
7th row (knit): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
8th row (purl): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
9th row (knit): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
10th row (purl): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
11th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
12th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
13th row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
14th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
15th row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
16th row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
17th row(knit): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
18th row(purl): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
19th row(knit): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.
20th row(purl): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.

[Editor's note: Rows 21-36 are a repeat of rows 1-16 worked in exact mirror image so Row 21 is the same as row 16, row 22 is the same as row 15, and so on back to the first row the same as row 36..]

21st row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
22nd row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
23rd row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
24th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
25th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
26th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
27th row (knit): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
28th row (purl): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
29th row (knit): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
30th row (purl): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
31st row (knit): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
32nd row (purl): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
33rd row (knit): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
34th row (purl): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
35th row (knit): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
36th row (purl): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.

NordicCardigan3ColourChart.jpg

Break off blue and continue in the 2-colour pattern, beginning with the 3rd row. Work 10 [10, 14] rows.

Slope shoulders: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With right side facing, rejoin the yarns to the the inner (armhole) end of the 53 [57, 61] stitches, and work in the 3 colour pattern as follows.

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 1 [5, 1] stitches remain; 1B [(1B, 4R), (1B)] .
2nd row (purl): 2B [(3R, 3B), (2B)] , * 5R, 3B; repeat from * until 3 stitches remain; 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 3 [7, 3] stitches remain; 3B [(5B,2R), (3B)]
4th row (purl): (4B, 1R) [(1R), (4B, 1R)] , * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern. Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) knit 1 row.

To shape the neck:

1st row (purl, wrong side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches, purl to end.
2nd row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * until 2 [5, 8] stitches remain; k0 [(3R), (6R)]; k2tog in R.

** Keeping continuity of the 2-colour pattern to match the main part, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 5 rows — when working the right front read 6 rows here instead — {38 [41, 44] sts}.

Pattern 2 [2, 6] rows.

Slope shoulder: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work one row, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 2 following alternate rows. Work one row.
Cast off remaining 6 [7, 7] stitches.

Right Front

With wrong side facing, rejoin red (R) at the the inner (armhole) end, increase in the first stitch, and purl to end. {53 [57, 61] sts}

Work in the 3 colour pattern as follows:

1st row (knit): 1B [(4R, 1B), (1B)], * 7R 1B; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain; 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 2 [6, 2] stitches remain; 2B [(3B, 3R), (2B)]
3rd row (knit): 3B [(2R,5B), (3B)] , * 3R, 5B; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2R.
4th row (purl): * 1R, 7B; repeat from * until 5 [1, 5] stitches remain; (1R, 4B) [(1R), (1R,4B)].

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern.
Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) work 2 rows.

To shape the neck:

1st row (knit, right side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches; knit k1R [(4R), (2W, 5R)]; * 3W, 5R; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2W.

Work as given for left front from ** to end, noting the variation.

Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade R, cast on 48 [48, 52] stitches and work 32 rows in double rib as for main piece.

Next (increase) row: k4, m1, * k1, m1; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain;k4. {89 [89, 97] sts}

Purl one row in red (R).

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work 72 rows in the 2-colour pattern as given on main piece (back and fronts).

Work the 36 rows of the 3-colour pattern as given on back.
Break off blue (B) and white (W).

With red (R) knit one row, then cast off.

Button Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 158 [158, 162] rows in k1/p1 single rib, beginning odd numbered rows with k1, and even numbered rows with p1.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Buttonhole Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 6 [6, 10] rows in k1/p1 single rib, as given for button band.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on previous row.
Rib 24 rows.

Repeat the last 26 rows 4 times more, then the 2 buttonhole rows again. Rib 19 more rows, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

Using the No 10 (3¼mm) needles holding the 13 stitches of the buttonhole band, and continuing the last row, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from right neck shaping, knit across 37 [39, 41] stitches from the back, increasing 3 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from left neck shaping, and finally rib across the 13 stitches (from the safety pin) of the button band. {112 [116, 124] sts}

1st rib row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * 5 times, k2; ** p2, k2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; p1, * k1, p1; repeat from this last * to end.
2nd rib row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * 5 times, p2; ** k2, p2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; k1, * p1, k1; repeat from this last * to end.

These two rows set the rib. Work 3 rows.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib as set to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on 1st row.

Work 12 rows in rib as set, then work the 2 buttonhole rows again.
Rib 4 rows, cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a warm iron over a dry cloth, or following any instructions on the ball band.

Set sleeves into armholes, and join the sleeve seams.
Sew front bands to respective fronts.
Turn neckband in half to the wrong side, and catch in place. Oversew the buttonhole in the neckband.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 [5, 6] 50g balls DK in main shade (R) red, plus
2 [2, 3] balls (B) blue, and
2 [2, 3] balls (W) white.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.

Tension

26 stitches x 27 rows to 4 ins (10cm) over the pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 [36, 38] inches, (86 [91, 97] cm);
length: 22 [22,
22½] inches, (56 [56, 57½] cm);
sleeve seam: 19¾ [19¾, 19¾] inches, (50 [50, 50] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working twice into the same stitch.

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2021

Casual Country Weekend

CasualCountryWeekend.jpg

Simply styled early sixties casual sweaters with separate instructions for her and for him. They are knitted in "triple knitting" yarn - a short-lived experiment by the yarn companies to introduce what is now the American "worsted" weight standard to British knitters. However, we were too much in love with our double knitting yarn - I mean that was bulky enough surely?!
However, owing to globalisation, we have now fully embraced worsted weight yarns which means we can easily find a good selection of yarn colours and fibre mixes to use with this pattern. [Failing that we always have Aran yarns to fall back on...]

The man's and womans versions are very similar - and similar in chest sizes offered as well. The changes are mainly to the proportion. However, the man's version has a set-in sleeve, while the woman's is more of square almost drop-shoulder - you can see this in the photo. I prefer the set in sleeve and if you are a woman of size 36-40 then it would be quite feasible to knit the man's sweater, adjusting sleeve and overall length to suit.

Instructions for WOMAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 80/86/92 stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/7/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [85/93/101 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 15 inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [69/77/85 sts]

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 21/21/21½ inches, ending after a first row with wrong side facing.

Next row: purl, increasing 9 stitches evenly across the row by working twice into every 7th/8th/9th stitch. [78/86/94 sts]

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 24/24/24½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 11/12/13 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 34/38/42 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 40/40/44 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/5/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [45/45/53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th/5th/9th and every following 4th row until there are 83//83/89 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 19 inches down centre.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.
Join shoulder and side seams. Join sleeve seams leaving 1½ inches open at the top: inset sleeves sewing 1½ inches of open sleeve seam along cast cast off stitches of armholes.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and catch down loosely; turn under rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams as before.


Instructions for MAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 90/96/102 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 3/5/7 stitches evenly across on last row. [93/101/109 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 16/16½/16½ inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69/77/85 stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 23 inches down centre, ending after a second row with right side facing.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.
Next row: * k 4/4/5, knit twice into the next stitch; repeat from * to last 4/12/7 stitches; k4/12/7. [82/90/98 sts]
Next row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 25½/26/26 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 8/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 38/42/44 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 46 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 7 stitches evenly across on last row. [53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th//8th/6th row until there are 73/73/77 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 18½/18½/19 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape top, by casting of 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 45/45/51 stitches remain. Work 1 row back, so that the right side is facing again.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 17/17/19 stitches remain.

Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and slip stitch loosely in position; turn under the rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams dry cloth and cool iron as before.

[Editor's note: I imagine the heavy emphasis on the ironing instructions are specific to the original yarn. In general, if using an iron, press only very gently with a cool iron using either a dry or damp cloth as appropriate to the yarn; use the instructions on the ball band if any are given.]

Materials

In Aran or worsted weight yarn.

Woman's version:
10/10/12 x 2oz balls in colour "Dawn Azure".

Man's version:
12/12/13 x 2oz balls in colour "Brown Heather".

A pair each of Nos 4 (6mm), 6 (5mm), and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

17 sts x 22 rows to 4 ins on No 4 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

Woman's version To fit chest: 34/36/38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 24/24/24½ inches.
Sleeve down centre: 19/19/19 inches

Man's version
To fit chest: 36/38/40 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26 inches.
Sleeve seam: 18½/18½/19 inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

Cross2K: knit into the back of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then knit into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

Cross2P: purl into the front of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then purl into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2021

Whitsun Holiday Hat

HolidayHat1.jpg

Knitting and crochet combine in this eye-catching candy floss striped hat which can be quickly put together in double knitting weight yarn.

This hat was designed for smart summer holidays (in the UK) in the 1950s, though it's hard to imagine wearing a woolly hat in the summer these days (even in the UK) - which is more a comment on fashion than global warming. However - easy to adapt the colour scheme for autumn and winter days.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is knitted in a fancy striped stitch (which is easier to do than to describe - see below); the top of the crown and brim are in simple double crochet.

Crown

Begin with the striped part: with pink wool, on No 10 needles, cast on 33 stitches and work in pattern thus:

1st row: k1, * insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle twice as before. [32 sts].
Leave pink hanging.
Join in white.
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop
together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice round needle.

Next row: As 3rd in white.
Leave white hanging.

3rd row forms pattern and this row is now repeated throughout, working two rows in each shade, ie your next 2 rows will be in pink
and the following 2 rows in white.

Continue thus until you have 26 pink stripes.

Next 2 rows: in white.

Cast off in white as follows:
Knit the first loop instead of dropping it, * knit together the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way; repeat from * until all stitches have been cast off; fasten off.
Join short sides together on wrong side.

With No 8 hook and white wool, make 3 chain, join into a ring with a
slip stitch. Work 2 dc in each chain. [6 dc]
Mark start of each new round with a pin to check increasings.

1st round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [12 dc]
2nd round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd round: * 2 dc in 2 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th round: * 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [30 dc]
5th round: * 4 dc in 4 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [36 dc]
6th round: * 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [42 dc] Continue thus, working 1 dc more between the increasings on every round until you have worked the round:
* 12 dc in 12 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [84 dc]

Fasten off.

Brim:

With white wool and No 5 hook, make 101 chain fairly loosely. Join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: * 1 dc in 1 chain; repeat from * all round.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc.

Next round: * 1 dc in 1 dc but going through the back loop only of each dc; repeat from * to end.
This forms edge of brim.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc, going through both loops in the usual way.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Press top of crown only.
Fold brim in half and press.
Pin centre of crown in position to striped part, gathering striped part to fit. Sew firmly in position on wrong side with a row of back stitching about ¼ inch below edge.
Fit brim over edge of crown, so that edge of crown goes right to fold; slip-hem neatly on both sides.
Give the three thicknesses of the brim a good press with a hot iron but only a slightly damp cloth.

Don hat with best frock and cotton gloves, and go for a promenade on the sea front.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 2oz white, and 1oz almond pink.

A pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

A No 5 (5½mm) crochet hook and a No 8 (4mm) hook.

Tension

26 sts to 4 inches over striped pattern on No 10 (3½mm) needles;
16 dc to 4 inches on No 5 (5½mm) hook; 22 dc to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) hook.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2021

Fuller figure twinset

FullerFigureTwinset.jpg

"Fuller figure" shown off on a suitably matronly figure for the post-rationing 1950s - but actually means a pleasing pattern in a reasonable size range for this century.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 6 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Jumper Back


With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 116 (122 : 128 : 132 : 138 : 148) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1, p1, rib, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5, repeat from * to last 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8) stitches, work twice into next the stitch, rib 3 (6 : 9 : 5 : 8 : 7).
[135 (141 : 147 : 153 : 159 : 171) sts]

Change to size 8 (4mm) needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p3, * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows once, then the 1st row once.

6th row: * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch.
7th row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice.
12th row: As 2nd row.
These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 59 (65 : 71 : 75 : 81 : 91) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches remain.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder

Jumper Front

Follow the instructions for the Back from to until 69 (73 : 77 : 79 : 83 : 93) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:

1st size only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 24 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 13 stitches remain.

Keeping the neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes only
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (25 : 26 : 27 : - : -) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until - (17 : 21 : 25 : - : -) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 13 stitches remain. Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

5th and 6th sizes only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (- : - : - : 28 : 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until - (- : - : - : 13 : 16) stitches remain. Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

All sizes:
Slip the centre 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches onto a spare needle. Join in wool at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Short Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 80 (86 : 86 : 92 : 92 : 98) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for ¾ of an inch, ending with a wrong side row and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and work in pattern as given for the Back until the work measures 3 (3 : : : : ) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 57 (67 : 65 : 71 : 69 : 73) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 9 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open.
With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, knit across the 9 stitches at the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches at the centre front; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 9 stitches on the top of the Right Sleeve, and knit the 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches from the back neck.
[108 (112 : 116 : 116 : 120 : 126) sts]

Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cardigan Back

Follow the instructions exactly as for the Jumper, but on completion cast off the stitches at the back neck.

Cardigan Left Front

Using size 10 needles, cast on 60 (60 : 66 : 66 : 70 : 76) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 6 : 6 : 5 : 5), repeat from * to last 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 4 : 4 : 4 : 7).
[ 69 (69 : 75 : 75 : 81 : 87) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and pattern as given for Back until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches, from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armhole and Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th (5th : 4th : 5th : 4th : 4th) row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until 13 (17 : 19 : 22 : 24 : 29) stitches remain.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sizes only:
Still decreasing at the neck edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until - (8 : 9 : 7 : 9 : 9) stitches remain.

All sizes:
Keeping neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

Cardigan Right Front

Follow the instructions exactly as for Left Front, reversing all shapings.

Cardigan Long Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 58 (60 : 60 : 62 : 62 : 64) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 4 (5 : 5 : 3 : 3 : 4), repeat from * to last 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7) stitches, work twice into the next stitch, rib 3 (5 : 5 : 6 : 6 : 6).
[ 69 (69 : 69 : 75 : 75 : 75) sts].

Change to size 8 needles and pattern.
Increase, and work into the pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 16th (10th : 10th : 11th : 11th : 8th) row until there are 81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Follow instructions for Sleeves of Jumper from to .
Cast off.

Cardigan Front Bands

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for ½ (½ : ½ : ¾ : ¾ : ½) of an inch.
1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib, casting on 3 stitches over the cast off stitches in the previous row.
Work 4 more buttonholes at intervals of 2½ ( : : : : ) inches, measured from base of previous buttonhole.
Continue in rib until Band is long enough, slightly stretched, to fit up Right Front, across sleeve tops, back neck and down Left Front.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Jumper
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Sew zip into left back raglan seam, then join remainder of seam.

Cardigan
Using a back stitch, join raglan, side and sleeve seams.
Sew on Front Band. Neaten buttonholes and sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting
Jumper:
18 (19 : 20 : 21 : 23 : 25) x 25g balls
Cardigan:
24 (26 : 27 : 29 : 30 : 32) x 25g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles

4 inch (10 cm) zip fastener for back neck of jumper

5 buttons for cardigan

Tension

26 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern

Size matters

To fit chest 40 (42 : 44 : 46 : 48 : 50) inches - actual measurements are 1½-2 inches larger;
length from top of shoulders: 22 (22¼ : 23 : 23¼ : 24 : 24½) inches;
short sleeve seam:
3 (3 : : : : ) inches;
long sleeve seam:
16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn Emu Superwash Double Knitting. This is a standard pure wool double knitting which was also available in 50g balls measuring 130 yards (119 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2020

Nordic Slipover

NordicSlipover3.jpg

A cute seasonal sleeveless sweater.
Co-incidentally I see that Wardrobe Icons have featured "knitted vests" as an "unexpected hero" this week, having "fallen in love with how versatile it is as a layering piece". They illustrate it with 3 shapes including fair-isle patterns with a closer fit and plain with a relaxed fit.
You could replace the Nordic style pattern given here with any fair-isle pattern of your choosing, just repeating it across the width of the sweater, making sure to centre the pattern - for example the Shetland Folklore pattern which is worked over a 10 stitch repeat.
I have a "relaxed fit" example in polka dots, which could easily be knitted plain.

Instructions

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
Work from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 106 [114, 120, 128] stitches and work in K1/P1 for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 1 [5, 4, 4] * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 1 [5, 4, 4] stitches, m1, rib 1 [5, 4, 4].
(133 [141, 149, 159] sts).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work in pattern from the chart, joining in and breaking off colours as required, working the first 4 [1, 5, 3] and last 3 [0, 4, 2] stitches on knit rows, and the first 3 [0, 4, 2], and the last 4 [1, 5, 3] stitches on purl row as indicated, and working the 14 stitch repeat pattern 9 [10, 19, 11] times across in between.

Continue until back measures 14½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.

**

Shape Armholes:
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, then at each end of every alternate row until 95 [99, 105, 109] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until back measures 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 9 [8, 10, 9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
(45 [47, 49, 51] sts).

Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back up to **.

Shape Armholes and Neck:

Next row: keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches, and pattern until 60 [64, 68, 73] stitches are on the right hand needle; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on first set of stitches only.
Work one row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, and then on every alternate row, at the same time, decrease 1 stitches at the neck edge on the next row, and every alternate row until 38 [39, 41, 42] stitches remain.

Then continue to decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every alternate row until 32 [34, 37, 39] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every following 3rd row until 25 [26, 28, 29] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until front matches back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
(9 [8, 10, 9] sts).

Work one row, and then cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 66 [70, 74, 79], and pattern to end.

Work to match the first side, reversing the shaping.

Making Up

Press lightly using a cool iron and dry cloth - or as instructed on the ball band - omitting the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches down left neck, knit stitch from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread), pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches up right neck, then knit 45 [47, 49, 51] stitches from Back, decreasing 3 stitches evenly.
(187 [197, 203, 213] sts).

1st row wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.

2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl, k1; ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Cast off evenly in rib, decreasing at marked stitch as before.
Join left shoulder and neckband.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 118 [124, 132, 138], stitches round each armhole.

Work in k1/p1 rib for 9 rows.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4 ply in each of the three colours (all sizes).

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 32 rows to 4 ins (10cm) measured over pattern using 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches;
length: 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

p2togtbl: purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Clansman 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2020

Footnote - Argyll Socks

ArgyllSocks.jpg

Socks created in two colours with the fair isle technique. Less common these days, now that we can create such exciting coloured socks with self-patterning yarns. Nonetheless quite satisfying since space dyed skeins cannot produce this lovely traditional Argyll pattern.

Instructions.

Each sock is worked in three (attached) sections - leg, upper foot, and lower foot - and mostly using only 2 needles, but these needles need to be double points (that is, pointed at both ends).
Note: When working from chart, carry the yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep the fabric elastic.

Leg and instep

Starting at the top leg, using 2 needles and Main Shade (MS), cast on 78 stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 4 inches, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row : 77 stitches.

Start with a knit row, working in stocking stitch in pattern from chart, joining in Contrast (C), reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right, until 75 rows have been worked.

Next row: pattern 18, increase in the next stitch, pattern to last 19 stitches, increase in the next stitch, pattern to end : 79 stitches.
Break yarns.

Slip first and last 20 stitches on spare needles for heel.
Rejoin yarns where required and continue on the centre 39 stitches for the instep, working in pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right, until 76 rows have been worked.
Break C.

Continue in MS and stocking stitch (1 row knit one row purl), starting with a knit row, until foot is required length, allowing 2½ inches for toe shaping and ending with a purl row. Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Heel and sole:

Slip the 2 groups of 20 stitches on to one needle....
[Editor's note: Here you are joining the sock into its circular shape by folding in the edges to work the heel and sole - thus the stitches are arranged with the edges of the work meeting in the middle of your needle. You are continuing to work on two needles.]
...and with right side facing and MS, work as follows:

1st row: k19, k2tog, k19.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, * sl1 purlwise, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: purl.
Rep 3rd and 4th rows for 2½ inches, ending with a 3rd row.

Turn heel as follows:
1st row: k1, p19, p2tog, p1, turn.
2nd row: k3, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.
3rd row: p4, p2tog, p1, turn.
4th row:
k5, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.
5th row: p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
6th row: k7, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.

Continue in this way until all the stitches have been worked : 21 stitches.

Next row: p21 stitches, then pick up and purl 18 stitches down side of heel piece, turn.
Next row: k39 stitches, then pick up and knit 18 stitches down other side of heel: 57 stitches.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 35 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work matches the patterned instep piece, ending with a purl row.

Toe:

Next row: k18 and now (finally) arrange the stitches on 3 needles for working the toe in the round as follows:
1st needle: k17 under foot stitches;
2nd needle: k39 instep stitches
3rd needle: knit remaining 18 underfoot stitches.
Slip the 1st from each end of the 2nd needle on to the end of the 1st and the beginning of the 3rd needle: 18/37/19 stitches.

Work in rounds shape toe as follows:
1st round:
1st needle:
knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1;
2nd needle:
k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1;
3rd needle:
k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds until 22 stitches remain.
Knit the stitches from the 1st needle on to the 3rd needle and graft or cast off stitches from two needles together.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.

Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 3 ply yarn in main shade and 1 in lighter contrast.

Set of four No 13 (2¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.
[Editor's note: The instructions assume you will work 78 sts on 2 of your DPNs so you need to ensure they are long enough, or use 2 extra DPNs that are.]

Tension

36 sts x 44 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Length from top to base of heel: 13½ inches (34 cm);
length of foot: 10½ inches (27cm).

Abbreviations

MS is main shade (Lovat Heather).
C
is contrast (white).

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was Patons Nylox 3ply in colours Lovat Heather (2002) and Snow White (504).

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2020

Robin Hood and Maid Marion

BeltedSweaters.jpg

Long-line sweaters with belts at hip level. Very up-to-the-minute sixties styling - but somehow I feel they should have been shown in Lincoln Green - no?

Instructions

The main body of the sweater is knitted in "rice stitch" which is knitting a kind of sparse moss or seed stitch with some of the knit stitches on the right side worked into the back of the stitch.

Back:


Using size 10 needles, cast on 115 (119, 123, 131, 139, 143, 147) stitches.
1st row
: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more.

Change to size 8 needles and pattern:
1st row (Right side facing): [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, k9, p2 * ; [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl; repeat from * to * once; [k1tbl, p1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

2nd row: k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k17, p9; k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20).

3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from *to * once, [k1tbl, p 1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row
: As 1st row.
6th row
: As 2nd row.

7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from * to * once, [k1tbl, p1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

8th row: As 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures approximately 5 inches from the beginning, ending with the 8th pattern row.

Make Slots for Belt:

Next row: Pattern 6 (6, 8, 12, 16, 16, 18) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 25 (29, 29, 29, 29, 33, 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining 6 (6, 8, 12, 16, 16, 18) stitches, work to end.
Work 8 rows on these stitches.

Next row: Work in pattern across all stitches.

Continue in pattern until work measures approximately 15 (15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16½, 16½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row. Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread to facilitate easier working when joining raglan seams.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, work as follows:

1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 7th sizes only.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and 3 (3, 3, 3, -, -, 1) following 4th rows. 107 (111, 115, 125, -, -, 143) remaining.

All sizes .

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 55 (57, 57, 59, 59, 61, 63) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread.

Shape Shoulder Sections:
Cast off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 31 (33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 39) stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Follow instructions as for the Back from to , until 79 (81, 81, 85, 87, 89, 91 ) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape one side of the Neck:
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern 29 (29, 29, 30, 31, 32, 32) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 16 (16, 16, 17, 18, 17, 17) stitches remain.
Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at armhole edge as before until 12 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. Mark end of last row with a coloured thread.
Shape Shoulder by casting off the remaining 12 stitches.

Shape other side of the Neck:
Slip the centre 17 (19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in yarn at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Complete to match first side of neck.

Sleeves:

Using size 10 needles, cast on 53 (53, 57, 57, 61, 61, 61) stitches.

Using size 10 needles, cast on 115 (119, 123, 131, 139, 143, 147) stitches.
1st row
: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more.

Change to size 8 needles and pattern:
1st row (Right side facing): [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

2nd row: k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26).

3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row
: As 1st row.
6th row
: As 2nd row.

7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

8th row: As 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Increase and work into pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (9th, 9th, 8th, 8th, 7th, 6th) row until there are 73 (77, 81, 85, 89, 93, 97) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until! work measures 16 (16½, 16½, 17, 17, 17½, 17½) inches for her and 17 (17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches for him from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.
Mark each end of last row with a coloured thread.

Shape Raglan Top:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and 3 (2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1) following 4th rows. 65 (71, 75, 79, 83, 89, 93) stitches remaining.

Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 13 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Mark each end of last row with a coloured thread.
Work a further 2 inches, ending with a wrong side row. Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Neckband

With right side of work facing and using size 8 needles, knit across the 13 stitches on top of Left Sleeve, pick up and k20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) stitches down left side of neck, knit across the 17 (19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) stitches at centre, pick up and k20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 13 stitches on top of Right Sleeve and the 31 (33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 39) stitches on back neck: 114 (118, 122, 126, 130, 132, 136) stitches.
Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Change to size 10 needles and work ½ inch.
Change to size 8 needles and work 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Belt

Using size 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches.

1st row (Right side facing): * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1 , repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for 36 (36, 38, 38, 40, 40, 42) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 3 stitches remain. Knit 3 together and fasten off.

To Make Up

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, shoulder sections and neckband, matching coloured threads on raglan to coloured threads on sleeve top.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neckband in half onto wrong side and slip stitch down.
Sew buckle to straight edge of Belt.
Thread Belt through Slots.

Press seams lightly under a damp cloth.

Materials

23 (24, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31) x 25g balls double knitting wool.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Buckle for belt.

Tension

24sts x 34 rows to 4 ins measured over rice stitch.

Size matters

Actual chest measurement: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44 46) inches Length to centre back neck: 23 (23¾, 24¼, 25¼, 25¾, 26½, 27) ins Her sleeve seam: 16 (16½, 16½, 17, 17, 17½, 17½) inches
His sleeve seam: 17 (17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches

Abbreviations

k1tbl: knit through the back of the stitch.
sl3f: slip next 3 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work
sl3b:
slip next 3 sts on to cable needle and leave at back of work

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool superwash yarn.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2020

Against the Cold

AgainstTheCold.jpg

This 1930s sweater has good news and bad news. The good is that it's made in a yarn weight that is more popular today than then - that is a heavy DK or worsted. And as a consequence, the bad news is that the instructions are only given for one size, and with limited opportunity to alter the size by using thicker yarn.
I have referenced some reading material at the end of the instructions, that might help you with adaptations if you are feeling that adventurous.

" An unusual broken trellis pattern makes this warm country jumper. The casual polo collar does up at the back with three buttons, and the button-up idea is carried out again on the front of the welt. ".

Instructions.

Instructions are given for only one small/medium size.

Back

With No 8 needles, cast on 70 stitches and work 3½ inches in k2, p2 rib. In the last row increase to 80 stitches by working twice into each of the first and last 5 stitches of the row. Change to No. 7 needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: * (p2, k2) twice, p10, k2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2, k10, (p2, k2) twice, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * p1, k2, p2, (k2, p4) twice, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k1 (p2, k4) twice, p2, k2, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
5th and 6th rows: * (k2, p2) 5 times, repeat from * to end.
7th row: * k1, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k1, repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
9th row: * p10, (k2, p2) twice, k2, repeat from * to end.
10th row: * p2, (k2, p2) twice, k10, repeat from * to end.
11th row: * k, 1, p10, (k2, p2) twice, k1, repeat from * to end.
12th row: * p1, (k2, p2) twice, k10, p1, repeat from * to end.
13th row: * k2, p10, (k2, p2) twice, repeat from * to end.
14th row: * (k2, p2) twice, k10, p2, repeat from * to end.
15th row: * p1, (k2, p4) twice, k2, p2, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
16th row: * k1, p2, k2, (p2, k4) twice, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
17th and 18th rows: * (p2, k2) 5 times, repeat from * to end.
19th row: * k1, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
20th row: * p1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, repeat from * to end.
21st row: * (k2, p2) twice, k2, p10, repeat from * to end.
22nd row: * k10, (p2, k2) twice, p2, repeat from * to end.
23rd row: * k1, (p2, k2) twice, p10, k1, repeat from * to end.
24th row: * p1, k10, (p2, k2) twice, p1, repeat from * to end.

These 24 rows form the pattern, which is repeated throughout.
When work measures 12 inches from commencement shape for armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then k2tog at each end of the next 2 rows.
Work for 1 more inch and then change to k2, p2 rib (beginning and ending rows on the right side with k2).
Continue straight until rib section measures 3 inches, and then divide for neck opening:

Next row: Rib across the first 30 stitches, k6, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Work on these 36 stitches, keeping the 6 stitches at the inside edge in stocking-stitch, and after ½ an inch make a buttonhole as in the front welt (see instructions below).

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, k2, cast off 2, work to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches to replace those cast off in the previous row.

When work measures 19 inches from commencement cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows at the armhole edge, and in the same row as the first casting-off make another buttonhole as before.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Return to the remaining 30 stitches, cast on 6 stitches and, keeping these in stocking-stitch, work to correspond with the first side, but omitting the buttonholes.

Front:

Begin with the right welt.
With No 8 needles cast on 40 stitches.

1st row: k6, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
2nd row: k2, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p6.

Repeat these 2 rows once and then make a buttonhole as follows:
5th row: k2, cast off 2, work to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches to replace those cast off in the previous row.

Continue in pattern for 1 inch, and then make another buttonhole in the same way, then work for 1 more inch and make another buttonhole.
When work measures 3½ inches, ending with a purl row, leave on a spare needle and make another piece for the left welt to correspond, but omitting the buttonholes.
When this second piece measures 3½ inches, increase by working twice into first 3 stitches (side edge), work across next 31 stitches, then, holding the spare needle with the right welt stitches in front of the remaining 6 stitches of the left welt, knit through one stitch from each needle and take off together; work to the last three stitches and work twice into each of these (80 stitches).
Work 1 more row right across in rib.

Now change to No 7 needles and pattern as for back, and continue until 3½ inches of the yoke ribbing have been done.

Next row (right side facing): Rib 27, leave 12 stitches on a spare needle, rib 27.
Continue to work on the last 27 stitches, casting off 3 at the beginning of every row at the neck edge until 18 stitches remain.
Work straight until front measures 19 inches from commencement.

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.
Work remaining 27 stitches to correspond.

Sleeves:

With No 8 needles, cast on 32 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib for 3 inches.
In the last row increase to 42 stitches by working twice into each of the first and last 5 stitches of the row.

Now change to No 7 needles and pattern, but after 2 inches have been done, increase in the next and every following 4th row until there are 62 stitches on the needle, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18½ inches from commencement, then, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With the set of No 8 needles and front of work facing, take the 18 stitches from the spare needle at the left back, pick up and knit 19 over the left shoulder, take 12 from the spare needle at the front, pick up and knit 19 over the right shoulder, and take the 18 from the spare needle at the right back.
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib. Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Sew up side and sleeve seams, and insert sleeves.
Stitch the cast-on stitches of the under-lap down.
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes and fasten collar with press studs.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting or Worsted weight: 14 ozs.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.
A set of 4 No 8 (4mm) needles or a circular needle.

Five large buttons.

Tension

20 stitches to 4 inches using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-36 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 19½ inches; sleeve seam: 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

This 1930s pattern is given in only one size - which to be fair is a "medium" although I suspect the average size for women is rather larger than medium these days. The original yarn was Patons Totem - which was a double knit weight but came in a number of guises over the years I believe - and the tension and needles indicate it's more like a worsted weight. So it's not so easy to simply increase the size by using a thicker yarn - it might work if you check your tension, but the resulting sweater might be unappealingly chunky for the intended style.

Geraldine Warner has produced a helpful book about how to approach adapting vintage patterns - however, don't be confused as it is published under two different titles - but it's the same book. Also note that this is a book of techniques and "how to" - it's does not contain any knitting patterns:
Knit Back in Time or also known as Vintage Design Workshop

Whatever you choose to do, when adapting - always knit a swatch!

Pattern detail:

December 2019

Skating Set

SkatingSet.jpg

Charming offering from the mid-fifties - the era of the "set".
I'm not sure how much of a commonplace activity skating was or is. I guess the climate in the south of the UK and the constant dangers warned of in skating on lakes and ponds meant that in my youth at least it was not a general pursuit outside of ice rinks. I was very keen on roller skating - another 1950s and 60s popular sport - I even owned my own roller skates etc; however the only times I ever tried skating on ice, was at a rink with hired skates.
In the celluloid world, however, any wintry film would not have been complete without its skating scene, and this would have made the perfect accessory. Luckily you could also consider using it without the skating - though it does rather draw to mind US costume dramas.

Instructions

Note: Muff and all white borders are worked using yarn doubled.

Muff

Pocket lining:
Using two strands of white yarn, cast on 31 stitches and work 5 inches straight in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Main Part:
Using two strands of red wool, cast on 49 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1, * k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1tbl, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row: k1, * p1, k1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
6th row: k1, * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
7th and 8th rows: As 5th and 6th.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until work measures 3 inches.
Make pocket opening as follows:

Next row: Pattern 9, cast off 31, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 9, cast on 31, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 14 inches from start.
Cast off.

Borders:
Using two strands of white wool, cast on 11 stitches and
work as follows:
1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 4 times k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 13 inches.
Cast off in rib.
Make another piece the same.

Making up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Cut a piece of lining material to correspond with main part.

Join short sides of muff; insert pocket, joining top to 31 cast-off stitches, then catch down pocket neatly all round.
Sew zip into opening.
Join end of borders and sew in position (stretching slightly) at each end on top of main part.

Turn muff inside out. Wrap 2 layers of wadding round muff and join ends. Join short sides of lining material. Slip lining over wadding and hem neatly to main work just inside ends of muff.
Turn right side out; brush up white borders to look like fur using a wire brush.
[Editor's note: Given the choice of yarns available today, you might consider using a textured or furry yarn for the white borders - either a DK equivalent that you use double or a thicker yarn that knits to the right tension.

I seem to remember from my youth that muffs generally had a string attached to hang them round your neck so that you could have both hands free if necessary. I'm not sure if this was just because I was a child and was the equivalent to having your gloves on a string (threaded through your coat sleeves!), but it certainly would make it more practical if you planned to use it for more than skating expeditions.]

Cap

Using single strand of red wool, cast on 108 stitches and work 4½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Change to twisted rib and shape crown as follows:

1st row: * p1, k1 through back of loop; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p1tbl, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: (rib 16 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
4th row:
Work in twisted rib as above.
5th row:
(rib 15 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
6th row:
Work in twisted rib as above.
7th row: (rib 14 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.

Continue in twisted rib decreasing 6 stitches in the same way on every
alternate row until 36 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [18 sts]
Next row:
Purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [9 sts]
Next row:
Purl.

Break wool, draw through remaining stitches and fasten off.

Border:
Using two strands of white wool, make a border worked exactly as given for muff 17½ inches in length when slightly stretched.

Making up

Press lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join seam.
Fold under 2¼ inches of ribbing all round brim to wrong side and slip-hem in place.
Sew border all round hat on top of hem and brush up with a wire
brush as for muff.
Using white wool make a pom-pom and sew to top of hat.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 8 oz in Scarlet and 4 oz in white.

One pair of No 7 (4½mm) needles.

6-inch zip fastener.

White fabric to line muff, and 2 pieces of wadding for padding.

Tension

Cap: 24 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over twisted rib pattern using single strand of yarn.
Muff: 20 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over basket rib pattern using two strands of yarn.

Size matters

Cap to fit "an average head".
Muff measures 9½ inches in width.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k1tbl/p1tbl: knit/purl 1 stitch through back loop.

k2togtbl/p2togtbl: knit/purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2019

Dr Watson's Lopi Sweater

Lopi2019.jpg

I have always loved Lopi sweaters (whatever the era) and I thought the one worn by Martin Freeman in Sherlock (2011 - was it that long ago?!) was especially good. I love the navy base and the Christmassy air about it. For all I know, in the context of the show, it may have been meant as a joke Christmas jumper - but I love it despite many Sherlock fans labelling as ugly (ugly?!).
As you can see this pattern I have provided here, as made popular in the 70s and 80s, goes with the muted natural tones of the era, so you would need to change the colours to your own choice - mine being navy white and red, of course. You can, however, see in the picture what a difference the colour scheme makes; both his and hers sweaters are knitted to the same pattern, and yet with a change to the main shade and order of contrasts it looks like quite a different pattern.

Instructions.

Note: When working colour pattern from chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across wrong side of work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep fabric elastic.
Read all rounds knit from right to left.

Back and Front (alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 75 [79, 83, 87, 91, 95] stitches, and work in K1/P1 rib for 4 inches (10cm), right-side rows having K1 at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10], m1, (rib 15 [16, 17, 17, 18, 19, m1) 4 times, rib to end.
{80 [84, 88, 92, 96, 100] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 15½ (15½, 15, 14½, 15, 14½] inches, (39 [39, 38, 37, 38, 37] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until
64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves (two alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 33 [35, 37, 39, 39, 41] stitches, and work in rib as on Back for 4 inches (10cm), and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 2 [3, 4, 2, 2, 3], m1, (rib 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6, m1) 6 times, rib to end.
{40 [42, 44, 46, 46, 48] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [3rd, 5th, 3rd, 7th, 7th) row.

Continue in stocking stitch in main colour only on 6mm needles and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 8th [8th, 9th, 9th, 9th, 8th] row until there are 58 [60, 60, 64, 64, 68] stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] inches, (44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm), ending with a P row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times.

1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th sizes only: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row. Work 1 row.

All sizes: Leave remaining 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke and Neck Border

With right side facing, slip the first 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back on a spare needle with points at both ends.
With right side facing, using six 6½mm needles (or a 6½mm circular needle) and main shade, knit across the remaining 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes, then knit 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from left sleeve, 64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches from the front, 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from the right sleeve, and finally 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes as before; so you now have all the pieces joined in a circle with the beginning of the round at the centre back.
{216 [224, 224, 240, 248, 256] sts}.

If you are using 6 double pointed needles, then divide the stitches evenly on 5 needles. Mark the first stitch of the round with a coloured thread, then joining in and breaking off colours as required, work the 32 [32, 32, 36, 36, 36] rounds from Chart A [A, A, B, B, B], repeating the 8 pattern stitches 27 [28, 28, 30, 31 , 32] times across and decreasing where indicated.
{81 [84, 84, 90, 93, 96] sts}.

Chart A

Chart B

Break 1st and 2nd contrasts and continue in main shade only.

Shape Back as follows:
1st row: Knit 7 [8, 8, 9, 10 , 11], turn.
2nd row: Purl 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22] turn.
3rd row: Knit 21 [24, 24, 27, 30 , 33], turn.
4th row: Purl 28 [32, 32, 36, 40 , 44], turn.
5th row: Knit 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22].

Change to set of four (or circular) 5mm needles and decrease 1 stitch on the first round on 1st and 5th sizes only (to make them an even number of stitches).
Work in K1/P1 rib for 3 [3, 3, 4, 4 , 4] inches, (8 [8, 8, 10, 10 , 10] cm). Then, using a 6mm needle, cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing press lightly following any instructions on the ball band.

When making up a chunky garment it is easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing. If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 76cm lengths and a large needle, making sure the yarn keeps its original twist by turning the needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join armhole, side and sleeve seams. Press seams.
Fold the neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Materials

Chunky knitting yarn:
13 [14, 15, 16, 17, 18] 50g balls in main shade.

2 balls in each of 2 contrast colours for all sizes.

Pair each 5mm, 6mm, and 6½mm needles.
Set of four 5mm and 6½mm needles, plus
two spare 6½mm needles with points at both ends.
Editor's note: Or use 6½mm circular needles, although you may need to transfer to a set dpns if circulars become too difficult to manage as the yoke decreases in size.

Tension

15sts and 20 rows to four inches on 6mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 [42, 44, 46, 48, 50] inches; (102 [107, 112, 117.122, 127] cm).
Actual size: 42 [44, 46, 48, 50, 52] ins;
(107 [112, 117, 122, 127, 132] cm).
Length from top of shoulders:
25½ [26, 26, 26½, 27, 27] ins;
(65 [66, 66, 67, 69, 69] cm).
Sleeve seam:
17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] ins;
(44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

DrWatson.jpg

Note that Dr Watson has patterning just above the welts on the body and the sleeve.
If you want to knit the actual original, it is Alafoss 52 - again looking quite different in the natural tones associated with Icelandic sweaters.

Alafoss52.jpg

September 2019

Country Wear Pullover

CountrySlipover.jpg

Fair-Isle pullover or vest in bright colours, with the added interest in that it is knitted sideways.

Instructions:

The pullover is worked sideways using the Fair-Isle technique. Strand the wools not in use loosely across the back of the work.

Back

Begin at the left side edge. Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade natural yarn cast on 84 stitches.
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across.

When the 10th row of the chart has been completed, continue in pattern, working armhole increasings as shown on the chart, and keeping the extra stitches in pattern as indicated.
At the beginning of the 24th row, cast on 50 stitches to complete the armhole. [147 sts]

Continue in pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the shoulder edge at the end of the 29th, 37th, 45th, and 53rd rows as indicated. [151 sts]
Work straight until the 78th row of the chart has been completed.
This brings you to the centre back.

For the second half of the back, work down from top of chart, that is: 77th, 76th, 75th, 74th rows, etc, still reading from right to left on knit rows and left to right on purl rows.
Remember on this half of the back to decrease 1 stitch at the shoulder edge on the 53rd, 45th, 37th and 29th rows, and to cast off 50 stitches at the beginning of the 24th row for the armhole, then to decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 84 stitches remain.

Work straight to the end of the chart, then purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Front

Begin at the right side and work exactly as for the first half of the back until the 57th row has been completed. [151 sts].

Divide for neck opening:
58th row: Cast off 15, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 9 purl rows as indicated on the chart. [91 sts]
Work 2 rows straight to the end of the 78th row of the chart.

For the second half of the front, work down from the top of the chart as before, casting on stitches at the neck edge to correspond with those cast off on the first half, and decreasing at the shoulder and armhole edges as indicated.

When the chart is complete, purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Ribbed welt

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 140 stitches along the lower edge of the back.
Work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib: cast off in rib.

Work the front welt in the same way.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, beginning at the centre back, pick up and knit 88 stitches to centre front.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the centre front on alternate rows; cast off in rib.

Work the other half to correspond.

Armhole bands

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 160 stitches round each armhole.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts well under a damp cloth.
Join side seams.
Join neck ribbing at centre back and front.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 x 1oz balls of 4 ply fingering in main shade (natural), plus 1 oz each in 6 contrast colours: brown, yellow, blue, rust, emerald, white.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 39-41 inches.
Length: 23 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

For a pdf version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

February 2019

Weekend Jacket

LoopJacket.jpg

I like hooded jackets and textured fabrics. The benefit of this texturing is that it's all in the stitch, and you don't have to worry about sourcing a replacement for a unique vintage yarn. I can't say how effective the pattern is other than from the photo - so may be best to try a sample swatch first (always a Good Idea - no?!). I'm sure the jacket would work just as well plain.

...attractive loop-stitch texture gives extra warmth to this eyecatching week-end jacket - and a hood can be added for a colder-day version...

Instructions

Instructions are for 4 sizes.

Back

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 79/83/87/91 stitches and work 7 rows in garter stitch, (ie every row knit).

Change to No 5 (5½mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.

These 8 rows form the pattern for the back.

Work a further 8 rows straight in pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until 71/75/79/83 stitches remain, then on every following 4th row until 67/71/75/79 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 18½ inches (47 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglans as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
2nd row: p3, pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd. [65/69/73/77 sts]

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 23/23/25/25 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Pocket linings (make 2)

Using No 5 needles, cast on 21 stitches and work 23 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/37/39/41 stitches and work 7 rows garter-stitch. **

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
These 8 rows form pattern for left front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Continue in pattern, shaping side edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row. [33/35/37/39 sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Place pocket lining as follows:
1st row: knit 6/7/8/9, slip next 21 stitches on to a stitch holder and in place of these, knit across the stitches of one pocket lining, knit 6/7/8/9.
Work 3 rows straight in pattern, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row, then on every following 4th row until
29/31/33/35 stitches remain.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until front matches back at the side edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglan as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to end.
2nd row: pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd.

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 13/13/14/14 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Continue decreasing at raglan edge as before on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/8/6/6 stitches remain, then on every following alternate row until 4 stitches remain, all sizes.

Now keep the neck edge straight and work 1 more raglan decrease as before. [3 sts]..
1st row: purl.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl.
1st row: p2, turn; k2tog and fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.
These 8 rows form pattern for right front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'k2tog' when shaping raglan instead of 'k2togtbl'.

Sleeves

Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/35/39/39 stitches and work 7 rows garter stitch.

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides as follows:
Increase 1 stitch at each end of 7th/5th/3rd/3rd and every following 10th/8th/8th/ 6th row until there are 49/53/47/47 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

3rd and 4th sizes: Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th/8th row until there are 55/59 stitches.

All sizes: Work a few rows straight until sleeve seam measures 16 inches (41 cm), ending with the right side facing.

Shape raglans as for back until 7 stitches remain all sizes.
1st row: in pattern.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl, k. 1, k2tog , k1. [5 sts]
1st row: in pattern.
Leave stitches on a safety pin.

Front Borders

Left: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work a strip in garter stitch to fit up left front to start of neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Sew in position as you go along.
For hooded version: Cast off.
Version without hood: Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Right: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch. Work in loop pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * L1, k1; repeat from * to end.
1st row: knit.
1st row: k2, * L1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
1st row: knit.
These 4 rows form pattern. Finish to correspond with left border, but casting off in pattern for hooded version.

Neck Border for version without hood

Join raglan seams.
With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit 11 from right border, pick up and knit 10 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, 23/23/25/25 from back decreasing 2 stitches evenly, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 10 down left side of neck, knit 11 from left border. [73/73/75/75 sts]

1st row: k11, keeping continuity of loop pattern as for right border work to end.
Keeping 11 stitches of left border in garter stitch, work a further 15 rows straight in loop pattern.
Cast Off in loop pattern and garter stitch.

Hood

Join raglan seams.

With right side facing and No 8 needles, start at the centre of the right border and pick up and knit 5 stitches, pick up and knit 9 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, knit 23/23/25/25 from back, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 9 down left side of neck, then k5 from left border to centre. [61/61/63/63 sts]

Work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

1st row: rib 4/4/1/1, m1, * rib 4, m1; repeat from * last 5/5/2/2 stitches, rib 5/5/2/2. [75/75/79/79 sts]

Change to No 5 needles.
1st row: p12, starting with 4th row, work in loop pattern as for back to last 12 stitches, p12.

Keeping 12 stitches at each end in stocking stitch, continue in loop pattern until work measures 11 inches (28 cm) from start of ribbing, ending with right side facing.

Cast off 24 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight in pattern for a further 3 in. (7 cm) on the remaining 27/27/31/31 stitches, then work a further 3 inches (7 cm) in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Hood Border

With No. 8 needles, cast on 103/103/107/107 stitches, and knit 2 rows, then work 16 rows in loop pattern as for right border, starting with 1st row.
Cast Off in loop pattern.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting loop and garter stitch borders and taking care not to spoil the pattern. Join side and sleeve seams.

Pocket Tops: With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit across each set of 21 pocket stitches decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [20 sts].
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off knitwise.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Cut petersham the same length as right border plus 1 inch (2 cm) for turnings.
Mark position for 8 buttonholes on petersham, first to come 1½ in. (4 cm) up from lower edge, 8th 1 inch (2 cm) below top of neck border or below top of ribbing on hooded version, and remainder spaced evenly.
Cut buttonholes in petersham and buttonhole round them.
Pin petersham on wrong side of right border and sew along inner edge and along top and bottom edges, then catch firmly in centre between each buttonhole along outer edge.

Hooded Version: Join sides to top of hood.
Pin loop border on top of hood, cast-on edge to come level with outside edge.
Sew in position all round, sewing short edges level with short edges on front borders.
Both versions: Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

25/26/27/28 x 50g balls of chunky yarn.
Without hood:
20/21/22/23 x 50g balls.

Pair each No 5 (5½mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.

2 stitch-holders.

2 press studs.

2½ inch wide petersham for buttonhole border.

Tension

17 sts and 21 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes to fit bust:
32/34/36/38 inches, (81/86/91/96 cm);
length from top of shoulders, 27/27½/28/28½ inches, 69/70/71/72 cm);
sleeve seam, 16 inches, (41cm) all sizes.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

L1: knit next stitch, winding yarn over needle and first finger of left hand once, then over needle again, then place the 2 loops back on the left needle and knit them together with the stitch through back of loops.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Doublet.
This is a chunky - stated to be "double double knitting" - so 2 times thicker than DK. Ravelry lists it as 60 yards to 50g which sounds reasonable but I am unable to confirm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2018

Yellow Blazer

Blazer.jpg

I was told last autumn that red was definitely THE colour of the season, and then - after my wardrobe became impossibly bold - I was told that it was all about neutrals! Similarly last Spring I was told that yellow was the colour - just a splash or dash - and now apparently it is definitely THE colour for Spring.
Whatever you believe, this is a staple 50s jacket which you can knit in a single colour - entirely in yellow - or entirely without yellow. Whatever colour scheme you go for, make sure of those wonderful coordinating giant buttons before you start.

So: "Use a clear sharp sulphur yellow -- vivid contrast with white."

Instructions.

Instructions give for 2 sizes- larger size given in brackets thus ().
Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No 8 needles white yarn (W), cast on 104 (110) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch [that is: knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows throughout], ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): purl in the usual way.
These 2 rows mark the hemline.

With right side facing, continue straight in twisted stocking stitch until back measures 15 (15) inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of following 6 (8) knit rows. [82 (84) sts]

Work straight until back measures 23½ (23½) inches from hemline.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Cast off remaining 30 (32) stitches.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With white (W) yarn, cast on 24 (26) stitches and work about 3½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Cast on 35, p17, slip 1 purlways, purl to end. [79 (83) sts]

Continue in twisted stocking stitch as follows:
Next row: Knit to last 18 stitches, slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: purl. Rep. these 2 rows until front measures 5 inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Introduce pocket as follows:
Next row: k15 (16), cast off 24 (26), k22 (23), slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: Purl, purling across 24 (26) stitches of one pocket lining in place of those stitches cast off in the previous row.

Now continue straight in twisted stocking-stitch as before until front measures 15 (15) inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.

Continue in pattern shaping armhole and increasing 6 stitches in the border after the slipstitch as follows:

Next row: Cast off 5, knit to last 18 stitches, Slip 1 purlways, [increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, k3] 5 times, increase 1 as before, k2.
Break W yarn

Next row (wrong side facing): join in yarn Y, (k1, wool forward, slip 1 purlways, wool over needle] 11 times, k1 in Y; rejoin W and purl to end in W.
Next row: K2tog, knit to the slip stitch in W, slip 1 purlways, then in Y, [p1, wool back, k2tog through back loops, wool forward] 11 times, p1.
Next row: in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1 in Y, purl to end in W.
Note: Twist the wools on the wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Repeat the last 2 rows 5 (7) times more.
This completes armhole shaping.

Now continue straight until front measures 21½ inches from the hemline, keeping 23 stitches of border in twisted rib pattern in Y for revers as before.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 23 stitches in Y.
Break Y, then cast off 17 (19) stitches in W, purl to end in W.

Continue in twisted stocking stitch in W decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 (8) rows. [26 sts].
Work straight until front measures same as back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the following 4 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.

Right Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Cast on 35, k17, slip 1 purlways, k17, p44 (48) working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Purl in the usual way.

Work to correspond with left front reversing shapings and with the addition of 3 double buttonholes. First to come 3½ inches up from lower edge and remaining 2 at 5-inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole:
Next row (right side facing): k5, cast off 7, k5, slip 1 purlways, k5, cast off 7, knit to end.
Next row: Purl, casting on 7 over those cast off.

Your pocket row will read: (right side facing), k17, slip 1 purlways, k22 (23), cast off 24 (26), k15 (16).

The increase row before start of armhole will read: (right side facing), k2, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, [k3, increase 1 as before] 5 times, slip 1 purlways, knit to end.

On the next row start armhole shaping and introduce fancy rib in Y. as follows:
Cast off 5, purl to last 23 stitches in W, join in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1.

Sleeves:

With Y yarn, cast on 53 stitches.

1st row (wrong side facing): * k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways,won; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, wool back, k2togtbl, wfd; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
These 2 rows form the fancy rib pattern.

Continue in fancy rib for 3 inches ending with 2nd pattern row.

Continuing in pattern start to increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 93 stitches
Note: As the pattern is a multiple of 2 stitches keep increased stitches in stocking stitch until you have an extra 2 at each end, then take
them into the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 18 (19) inches from start of fancy rib pattern, ending with 2nd pattern row.

With wrong side facing, continue in pattern shaping top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 59 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 19 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing and yarn Y, pick up and k. 93 stitches all round neck, beginning and ending at the slipped-stitch of front borders.
Work 2½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, starting and ending with a purl row.
Shape by working short rows as follows:
Knit to the last 6 stitches, turn, purl to the last 6 stitches, turn; knit to last 10 stitches, turn; purl to last 10 stitches, turn; knit to last 14 stitches, turn; purl to last 14 stitches, turn; knit to last 18 stitches, turn; purl to last 18 stitches, turn.
Knit back to end picking up horizontal loop and knitting it together with
next stitch where work was turned to avoid a hole.

Next row: Purl, across all stitches, picking up horizontal loops in the same way.
Increase 28 stitches across next row as follows:
k5, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and
knitting into back of it, k4, increase 1 as before, [k3, increase 1 as before] 25 times, k4, increase 1 as before, k5.
[121 (121) sts]
Now with wrong side facing, change to fancy rib pattern as for sleeves and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with 2nd pattern row.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press stocking stitch parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Now make up double collar and double front borders as follows:
Fold collar and front borders in half with right side inside; join short sides of collar, then join cast-off edge of front facing to cast-off edge of collar on wrong side to form revers.
Turn right side out and press.
Now slip-hem inner edge of collar neatly all round neck on wrong side.

Slip-hem front facing in position on wrong side [note that the slipped stitch in the knitting marks the edge of the fold up the front edges].

Oversew loosely around the double buttonholes.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Turn under 1½ inches of stocking-stitch up to hemline all round lower
edge and slip-hem in position. Turn under 1½ inches all round
each sleeve and slip-hem on wrong side.

Catch down pocket linings, then with yarn W and (right side facing), pick up and knit 24 (26) stitches along cast-off edge of each pocket opening. Work 2 inches twisted stocking-stitch; cast off loosely.

Fold pocket tops in half to wrong side and slip-hem, then catch down sides of pocket tops to main work.

Press all seams and hems.
With crochet hook and yarn Y make 3 circles in dc to cover buttons. Sew circles firmly over buttons, then sew in position on left front.

Materials

Double Knitting:
11 (12) ozs in sulphur yellow (Y);
15 (16) ozs in white (W).

A pair each No 8 (4mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Three large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches over the twisted stocking stitch

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-37) inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 24 ins;
sleeve seam: 15½ (16½)inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

won: "wool over needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": bring the wool to the front of the work.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")
twisted stocking stitch is a variation whereby you knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows, and execute the purl rows as normal; this gives a texture to the knitting.

Crochet abbreviations:

dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Blazer2.jpg

It is interesting to note that this jacket is referenced as being a revamp of a previous model (which I have yet to find). This picture above is obviously how it was made up for the photo shoot - ie in a single colour. You can peer at the detail in the colour photo and pretty easily see that the yellow colour has been painted in after the event. I am keen on trying out changes to the photos - lightly tinting black and white pictures etc - but these changes would have been made by skillful application using a real air brush technique rather than Photoshop.

November 2017

Irish Knot Wrap

IrishKnotWrap.jpg

Splendidly cosy knee-length wrap in Irish Knot stitch with garter stitch borders forming a soft shawl collar.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Make knot (MK) in pattern as follows:
(k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) loosely all in the next stitch; then with point of left-hand needle, pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches on the right-hand needle over the first stitch one at a time.

Back

With No 9 needles cast on 98 [104 : 110: 116 : 122] stitches.
1st row: p2, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: k2, (pbl, k2) to end.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 18 stitches and
leave on a spare needle.
With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 98 [103 : 107 : 111 : 119] stitches.

Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: k8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1]
4th row: p6 [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1 , increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
7th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3]stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
8th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
9th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1;* k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
10th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1 , kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
11th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * (k1, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5[2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Back measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles, and keeping continuity of pattern, work Pocket Linings as follows:
Next row: Cast on 18 stitches, knit across these 18 stitches, then in pattern to end, then kit across 18 stitches that you left on the
spare needle earlier (131 [139 : 143 : 147 : 155] sts).
Next row: p18, pattern to last 18 stitches, p18.
Next row: k18, pattern to last 18 stitches, k18.

Repeat the last 2 rows 13 times more, then the first of these 2 rows again, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: Cast off 18 stitches, pattern to last 18 stitches, cast off remaining stitches. Break yarn.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and continue in pattern until Back measures 21½ inches (55 cm).

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles and continue in pattern until Back measures 26½ inches (67 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes, by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until 71 [73 : 77 : 81 : 83] stitches remain.
Work straight until Back measures 35 [35½ : 36 : 36¼ : 36¾] inches, (89 [90 : 91: 92: 93] cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches at the beginning of the
following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 31 [33 : 35 : 37 : 39] stitches.

Left front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, p6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
3rd row: k10 [5 : 5 : 5 : 10]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1].
4th row: p6, [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
5th row: k9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
7th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
8th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] , kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
9th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
10th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
11th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Cast off 5 stitches, pattern to end.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts)
Work 29 rows in pattern.

Next row: Cast on 5 stitches, pattern across these stitches, pattern to end. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern until 32 rows less than on Back have been worked before start of armhole shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape front slope as follows:

1st size: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row, and then at the same edge on every following 3rd row until 44 stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sizes: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next, and every following alternate row until - [54, 54, 56, 60] stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at the front edge
on every following 3rd row until - [48, 49, 51, 55] stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

All sizes: Work 1 row, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape armhole by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row: Work 2tog, pattern to end.

Decrease 1 stitch at armhole edge on next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows, then on he following 2 [3 : 3 : 3 : 4] alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 28 [28 : 29 : 31 : 31] stitches remain.

Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge only on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 20 [20 : 21 : 22 : 22] stitches remain.
Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches.

Right front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 5 stitches and leave on a spare needle.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]., * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 18 [13 : 13 : 13 : 18] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11].
2nd row: p9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: 8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5] stitches, k5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5].
4th row: p8, [3 : 3 : 3 : 8]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, k6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
6th row: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
7th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] .
8th row
: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
9th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7].
10th row
: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
11th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, k7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
12th row
: p7 [2, 2, 2, 7], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Pattern to last 5 stitches; cast off these 5 stitches.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts). Break yarn,

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and work 29 rows in pattern.
Next row: Pattern to end, then pattern across 5 stitches from spare needle. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern and complete to correspond with the Left Front, reversing shapings and changing needles as required.

Sleeves

With No 4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 53 [53, 57, 61, 61] stitches, and work 7 rows garter stitch (every row: sl1k, knit to end).
Next row: k2 [2, 4, 3, 3]; * m1, k7 [7, 7, 8, 8]; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 2, 2] stitches, m1, knit to end.
(61 [61, 65, 69, 69] sts).

Now work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing),: k6 [6, 8, 10, 10]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 13 [13, 15, 17, 17] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, K6 [6, 8, 10, 10].
2nd row: p4 [4, 6, 8, 8], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
3rd row: k5 [5, 7, 9, 9]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 0 [0, 2, 4, 4] stitches, k0 [0, 2, 4, 4].
4th row: p3 [3, 5, 7, 7]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1 ; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
5th row : K4 [4, 6, 8, 8]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
6th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
7th row: k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1, * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
8th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
9th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
10th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
11th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
12th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 18th [14th, 18th, 18th, 12th] row until there are 69 [71, 73, 77, 81] stitches, taking increase stitches into the pattern.
Work straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 17 [17 : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] inches, (43 [43, 44, 44, 44] cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2
rows, then decrease 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row until 31 [31 : 31 : 35 : 39] stitches remain.

Now decrease as before at each end of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
See special make up note on first page of text.
Join shoulder seams. Join side seams, leaving opening for pockets.

Pocket Borders: With right side facing and No 4 (6 mm) needles, knit up 23 stitches evenly along side edge of front between cast-off and cast-on stitches.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch (every row sl1k, knit to end).
Cast off.
Join side edges of border to cast-off and cast-on stitches.
Lightly stitch Pocket Linings in position on wrong side of fronts.

Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Left Front Border and Collar:
With No 4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in garter stitch (every row sl1k, knit to end, noting that first row is wrong side) until Border, when slightly stretched, fits up Left Front to start of front slope shaping, ending with right side facing for next row. Sew in position as you go along.

Shape Collar by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 6th row until there are 21 stitches.
Work straight until Collar fits up left side of neck and round to centre back of neck, ending with right side facing.
Sew in position as you go along.
Cast off loosely.

Right Front Border and Collar:
Work as for Left Front Border and Collar, reversing shapings.
Join Collar at centre back of neck.
Press seams.

Materials

25 [25 : 27 : 28 : 29]
50g skeins in a chunky yarn.

A pair each of Nos
4 (6mm), 3 (6½mm), and 2 (7mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 4 (6mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 5 sizes to fit chest:
32 [34 : 36 : 38 : 40] inches, (81 [86 : 91: 97 : 102] cm);
length from top of shoulders: 35 [35½ : 36 : 36¼ : 36¾] inches, (89 [90 : 91: 92: 93] cm);
and sleeve seam:
17 [17 : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] inches, (43 [43 : 44 : 44 : 44] cm).

Abbreviations

MK: make knot.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
kb or pb: knit or purl into back of stitch.
tbl: through back loop
sl: slip
sl1k: slip 1 stitch knitwise.

 

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a Patons Husky Chunky yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

IrishKnotWrapbw.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: sweater

SnowSetSweater.jpg

Continental after-ski casuals - fifties style .

... even though my sporty friends tell me that even more recent items that I think of as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

"Hey look - over there - someone's wearing socks to match my sweater!"
[...and in case you were wondering - I think it's an orange she's holding.]

Instructions.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Black by B, and Red by R.
The colour panels are worked with separate balls of wool in the intarsia fashion. Twist the wools on the wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Front

With No 8 needles and white yarn W, cast on 99 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end, and ending with a wrong side row.

With right side facing, change to pattern introducing the fair-isle pattern (worked from the chart) in stocking-stitch and the red panel in red yarn (R) worked in rib up the centre.

Continue setting out the panels as follows:—
1st row: k15 W, p1 W; join in 1st ball of B, and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; join in R and k5; join in 2nd ball W and B and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; p1 W, k15 W.
2nd row: p15 W, k1 W; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; change to R, (p1, k1) twice, p1 R; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; k1 W, p15 W.
3rd row: k15 W, p1 W; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart; in R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart, p1 W, k15 W.

Keeping centre rib and pattern correct work 9 rows straight.

Next row: k12 W; k2tog W; pattern 31; k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it; p1 R, k1 R, p1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back of loops, k12 W.
Next row: p14 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2; pattern 31; k1 W, p14 W.
Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Next row: k11 W; k2tog W, k1 W, p1 W; pattern 31, k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it; using R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back loops, k11 W.
Next row: p13 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1 R; pattern 31; k1 W, p13 W.

Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Continue in pattern increasing the rib stitches in this way and decreasing in the White panel at each end, on the next and every following 16th row until work measures 13½ inches from the start, and ending with right side facing.

Shape sleeves as follows:
Continue shaping on every 16th row as before and at the same time shape for sleeves by casting on in W: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [265 sts]

This completes the sleeve shaping

Continue in pattern shaping on every 16th row as before until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: Work 124, rib the next 17 stitches, placing them on to a stitch-holder and leave for the time being; work 124 stitches to end.

Continue on the last 124 stitches only, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows.

Next row: Cast off 31, work to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, work to end.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work back, then cast off the remaining 9 stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining 124 stitches, work to end. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows, then finish to correspond with right shoulder.

Back

With No 8 needles and W yarn, cast on 95 stitches and
work 3 inches k1/p1 rib as for front.

Change to stocking-stitch, working in White throughout, and work straight until side edge measures same as front ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape for sleeves by casting on: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [261 sts]

Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing. Shape sleeves and shoulders by casting off 31 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [29 sts]
Leave remaining 29 stitches on a stitch-holder.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing, the set of No 10 needles and Black yarn B, starting at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 16
stitches up right side of neck, then knit 29 stitches across back of
neck. [78 sts]

Work in rounds of k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cuffs

With right side facing, using two No 10 needles and Black yarn B, pick up and knit 40 stitches along sleeve edge. Work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 13 oz in white (W), 3 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 8 (4mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

2 stitch holders.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 22 inches.
Sleeve seam: 16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

And here we see the whole splendid outfit.
[... and she's still holding on to that orange...]

SnowSetOutfit.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: slipper boots

SnowSetSlipperBoots1.jpg

Sports wear.... skiing!
... even though my sporty friends tell me that even the items I think of from more recent years as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

Anyway - to kick off in fifties style - "ankle-warm slipper boots".

Instructions

Make two socks alike.

Main body:

Using the pair of No 10 needles and red (R) yarn, cast on 51 stitches, and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, (k3, increase in next stitch) 6 times, k1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, k2. [57 sts]
Break red yarn (R).

Join in white (W) and purl 1 row.

Now introduce black yarn B and work the fair-isle pattern over the centre 31 stitches, using stocking stitch and reading from the chart, and keeping 13 stitches on either side in rib as before.
[x indicates black stitches].

Work rows 1 through 12 from the chart, 3 times in all, then 1st and 2nd rows again.

Next row: Rib 13 and slip these stitches on to a length of wool or a stitch holder for the time being, pattern across the next 31 stitches, slip the remaining 13 stitches on a length of wool as before.
Continue on the centre 31 stitches only, and continuing the pattern from the chart until the 6th row of the 7th pattern has been done from start.
Break black yarn B.

Next row: (k2, k2tog.) 7 times, k1, k2tog. [23 sts]
Next row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Adjust length of foot here:

For size 5 foot work 2 rows straight in stocking stitch;
for size 6 foot work 4 rows straight;
for size 7 foot work 6 rows straight.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping toe by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every knit row until 15 sts remain, then at each end of every row until 9 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To make heel:

Slip the 26 stitches left on spare wool or stitch holders on to one needle and with right side facing, join in W
[Editor's Note: you are making the heel here so you need to arrange the 2 sets of stitches so that the free ends of the knitting meet in the centre, and you start knitting at the edge of the centre panel you have just been knitting.]
and work as follows:

1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p2tog., (k1, p1) 5 times, k2.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Continue in rib for 2¼ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib, leaving last stitch on needle.

To shape instep, using needle with the 1 stitch remaining, pick up and knit 10 stitches along the side of the heel.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Next row: Knit to the last 3 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, pick up and knit 11 stitches along the other side of the heel and work to correspond.

Making up

Press the pattern parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join instep pieces to foot.
Using red yarn (|R) and the set of 4 No 10 needles, pick up and knit 134 stitches (for size 5), 138 stitches (for size 6), 142 stitches (for size 7), all round lower edge of slipper (where it will be sewn to the soles).
Work 4 rounds k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew zip fasteners in position down centre back, then join the rest of back the seam.

Stitch slipper firmly to sole.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 2 oz in white (W), 1 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Two 4 inch zip fasteners.

A pair of slipper soles.

Tension

24 st and 32 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

To fit UK women's size 5,6,7.
European: 37, 38, 39

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A slightly clearer picture of the boots, showing the snazzy back zip closing.

SnowSetSlipperBoots2.jpg

December 2016

Cosy Pram Cover - crochet

CrochetCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to crochet a simple cover if you can get over the lurid sixties colour schemes. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations which would be less traumatic for a baby].

Instructions

The crochet blanket is made up of a number of large motifs sewn together and then joined with smaller motifs which are integrated as you work.

Large Motif (make 24)

Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and DK in Light colour (L) make 6ch loosely and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 3 chain, work 23tr into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch. [24 sts].
Break L and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M work 5ch, 1tr in same stitch as slip stitch; 1ch, * miss 2 stitches, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * 6 times more; miss 2ch, and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 5ch.
Break M and join in Dark colour (D).
3rd round: In D work a slip stitch into first 2ch space, 3ch, (1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in same 2ch space; * 1dc in next 1ch space, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 2ch space; repeat from * 6 times more; 1dc into last 1ch space, and join with a slip stitch into top of 3ch, slip stitch into next tr.
Break D and rejoin in L.
4th round: In L work a slip stitch in first 2ch space, 3ch, (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same 2ch space; 1dc into next dc, * (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next 2ch space; 1dc in next dc; repeat from * 6 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch.
Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

To Make Up

Using L, join motifs by stitching centre stitches of each motif together, and making 6 rows of 4 motifs.
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant by centre stitches, I think they must mean the centre stitches of the last round. Clearly the motifs are attached at the sides as in the picture]

Work 15 small motifs to fill the spaces formed by the larger motifs and join together as follows:

Small Motif (make 15 - joining as you work)

The smaller motifs are worked in 4 ply.
Using No 9 (3½mm) hook and 4ply in Dark (D) make 8 chain loosely and join with a slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring.

1st round: 6 chain, work (1tr, 3ch) 7 times into the ring and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 6 ch.
Break D and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M slip stitch in first space; 3ch, 2tr, in same space; (slip stitch inserting hook from right side of large motif into centre treble of 3tr on large motif; 3tr in next chain space of small motif) 7 times; insert hook into centre treble of last petal, and at the same time insert hook into top of 3ch, joining with a slip stitch.
[Editor's note: This sounds more complex than it is - you need to be working it to understand. All you are doing is joining the small motif in between the larger ones as you work round 2]
Fasten off.

This completes the motif - work the other 14 in the same way.

Finishing

With right side facing, Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and M in DK, work 1 round of dc around scalloped edge of cover.
Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Cut the lining material to fit around the scalloped edges. Turn in the edges and catch down all around the scallops inside the dc border.

Materials

Double Knitting: 2 x 50g balls of Light, and 1 each of Medium and Dark.

4ply: 1 x 25g in each of Medium and Dark.

One No 7 (4½mm) and one No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

½ yard of washable lining material to match the dark colour.

Tension

Each motif is intended to measure 4½ inches.

Size matters

18 x 27 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.

Stylecraft have a good range of acrylics with equivalent colours available in DK and 4ply.


CrochetIsEasy.jpg

Cosy Pram Cover - knitted

KnittedCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to knit a simple cover if you can get over the dramatic sixties colour scheme. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations].

Instructions

The pattern uses DK weight yarn with 2 strands held together.

Motif (make 12)

Using main shade (M) cast on 96 stitches and work 11 rows in garter stitch (every row knit but slip the first stitch of every row).

Next row: Sl1, k7, slip these 8 stitches on to a thread; k4, increase in the next stitch, (k9, increase in next stitch) 7 times; k5; slip the next 8 stitches on to a thread (88 sts).

Joining in contrast (C) as required and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: Sl1, k2C, * k4M, k2C, repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
2nd row: Sl1, k2C; yft, * p4M, k2C, yft; repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
3rd row: In M sl1, knit to end.
4th row: In M sl1, purl to last stitch, k1.
5th row: Sl1, k3M, * k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end.
6th row: Sl1, p3M, * k2C, yft, p4M; repeat from * to last 6 stitches;
k2C, yft, p3M, k1M.
7th and 8th rows: As 3rd and 4th rows.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until main part measures approximately 26½ inches ending with a 2nd pattern row.
Break off contrast C.
Next row: K4, k2tog, (k9, k2tog) 7 times; k5. (80 sts)
Break off M. and slip stitches on to a length of yarn.

Borders and finishing

With wrong side facing, rejoin M to the 8 border stitches on left side and work in garter stitch until Border measures 26 inches from cast-on edge, ending with wrong side facing.
Break M and slip stitches on to a thread.
Sew in position, using a flat seam, slightly stretching it to fit edge of
main part.
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining border stitches and complete to correspond with first Border, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Sl1, k7, then on to same needle knit across stitches of main
part and first Border (96 sts).
Work 10 rows in garter stitch across all stitches.
Cast off evenly.

Sew remaining Border in position.
Pin out to measurements.
Press lightly on wrong side.

Materials

6 x 50g balls double knitting in main shade (M) and 2 in contrast (C).

Two No 4 (6mm) needles

Tension

18sts x 20 rows to 4 inches over pattern. [Yarn is used double throughout].

Size matters

22 x 27½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.
You could also consider knitting a single strand in a heavier weight yarn - Aran, worsted, even chunky. However you would need to knit a tension square in the pattern stitches.

September 2016

Plaid Pullover

PlaidSlipover.jpg

Pullover in a range of sizes, with an interesting plaid effect made by slipping stitches.
Joy first knitted it 35 years ago for her husband and he liked it so much he was always asking her to redo it. It took a while but she finally managed it - see her satisfied hubby at the end....

Instructions:

The instructions are given in 9 sizes with smallest size given first and the larger sizes in brackets.

Back


Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting yarn cast on 93 [99; 105; 111; 115; 121; 127; 133; 137] stitches.

1st row (right side): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end..
Repeat these rows 9 times more.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and commence pattern.

1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th sizes only

1st row: Purl
2nd row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, knit to end.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, purl to end.
4th row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, knit to end.
5th row: Purl 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches; [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, purl to end.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

3rd and 7th sizes only
(Note: same instructions for both sizes)

1st row: Purl
2nd row: K4, purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k7, * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, purl next stitch, winding yarn 3 times round needle, k4.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p4,yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p7, * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p4.
4th row: Knit 4, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k7 * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k4.
5th row: Purl 4, yb, slip l purlwise, p7 * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; yb, slip l purlwise, p4.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

All sizes

Continue in pattern ...

....until work measures 14 [14½; 14½; 15; 15; 15½; 15½; 16; 16] inches from the beginning , ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 69 [75; 79; 83; 87; 91; 95; 99; 101] stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 8¼ [; ; 9; ; ; ; 10; 10¼] inches from the commencement of the armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as given for back from to until work measures 8 rows less than the Back to armhole shapings ending with a wrong side row.

Shape First side of neck
Next row (right side facing): Pattern , 43 [46; 49; 52; 54; 57; 60; 63; 65], p2tog, p1. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Pattern to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to last 9 stitches, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern to end.

††
Continue to decrease in this way at the neck edge on every 4th row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until there are 29 [32; 34; 35; 37; 39; 41; 43; 43] stitches remaining.
Keeping side edge straight, decrease at neck edge as before until 20 [22; 23; 25; 26; 28; 29; 30; 30] stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as the Back to shoulder shaping, ending at the side edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 9; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches.
††

Return to the stitches on the spare needle on the other half of the front. Slip the centre stitch onto a safety pin.

Shape second side of neck:
Next row: Joining in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, p1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row:P1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: Pattern 7, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 7, work 2 together, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.

Complete to match the first side, working from †† to ††.

Neckband

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches down left side of neck, knit centre from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread or stitch marker), pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches of back neck, increasing into last stitch: 167 [173; 179; 183; 189; 193; 199; 205; 211] stitches.

1st row: Work in k1/p1 rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch; slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at back of work, place stitch on right hand needle back onto
left hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle and p3tog; p1/k1 rib to end.
2nd row: Rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at front of work, slip next stitch onto right hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle, then place both stitches on right hand needle back onto left hand needle and k3tog; rib to end.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more, then the first row once.
Cast off in rib, decreasing on this row as before.

Armbands

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join left shoulder seam and Neckband. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 90 [94; 96; 100; 102; 104; 108; 110; 112] stitches evenly along armhole edge.
Work 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and steam very gently, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Using matching yarn, join side seams and armbands.

Materials

Yarn A - bouclé double knitting: 3 [3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5; 5; 5] x 50g balls
Yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting: 3 [3; 3; 3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5] x 50g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit: 32 [34; 36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48] inches.

Chest actual: 34 [36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48; 50] inches.

Length: 23-27 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

sl: slip

yb: yarn back

A word on the wool

You can see in the picture this is knitted in two different colours and textures of double knitting yarn.

Finding a substitute will not be impossible as DK yarns are fairly standard, though it might be trickier to find the bouclé.

The example shown, used Stylecraft double knitting yarn in just the one texture (no bouclé). It took 125g of the maroon colour and just under 100g of the grey (or silver).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PlaidSlipoverU.jpg

Joy's DH - doesn't he look pleased? (and only a little self-conscious...)

April 2016

Seafarers' Sweaters

This has to be a favourite for me, combining a boating theme with navy and white.
It is a pattern from the seventies but was quite a new idea - a forerunner of those drop shoulders and cowl neck designs which were so ubiquitous in the eighties - and seemingly popular now.

Instructions.

Instructions for six sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in two colours (dark and light) - Navy is represented by D (dark) and Cream represented by L (light).

Back

With No 9 needles and yarn D, cast on 84 (92 : 97 : 100 : 108 : 112) stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
2nd row:
k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows until rib measures 3 inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 5 needles and knit 1 row, increasing 1 stitch at centre:. [85 (93 : 97 : 101 : 109 : 113) sts]

Join in yarn L, and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: right side facing, in L, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4), sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, * k7, sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4).
2nd row: in L, knit.
3rd row: in D, k 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, * k9, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches, k7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5).
4th row: in D, knit.
5th-16th row: as 1st-4th rows worked 3 times.

17th row: in L, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k7, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, k 7 ; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches , sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
18th row: : in L, knit.
19th row: in D, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k9, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
20th row: in D, knit.
21st-32nd rows: as 17th-20th rows worked 3 times.

These 32 rows form pattern. Repeat them until back measures 15 (15 : 15 : 16 : 16 : 16) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [75 (83 : 87 : 91 : 99 : 103) sts].

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until back measures 23 (23 : 24 : 25 : 26 : 26) inches, ending with right side facing

Shape shoulders by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 51 (59 : 63 : 67 : 75 : 79) stitches remain.
Cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 5 (5 : 4 : 6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Slip the remaining 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back to start of armhole shapings.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33), slip these stitches on a spare needle, cast off 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches, pattern to end.

Continue on these last 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33) stitches for the first side and work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by decreasing 1 stitch at end of next row, then at the same edge on every row until 11 (13 : 14 : 16 : 19 : 21) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, then cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin appropriate yarn colour to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 9 needles and D, cast on 40 (40 : 44 : 44 : 48 : 48) stitches and work 3 inches in rib as for back, ending with wrong side facing.

Change to No 5 needles.
Next row: k2, m1, {k9 (9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 11), m1) 4 times, k2. [45 (45 : 49 : 49 : 53 : 53) sts].

Join in L and pattern 4 rows as for 2nd (2nd : 3rd : 3rd : 4th : 4th), size of back.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73 : 81 : 81 : 89 : 89) stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 17½ (17½ : 18½ : 19 : 20 : 20) inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 83 (83 : 91 : 91 : 99 : 99) stitches. Break L.

Change to No 9 needles.
Next row: in D, knit, increasing 5 stitches evenly across row. [88 (88 : 96 : 96 : 104 : 104) sts].

Work 7 rows rib as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side following instructions on the ball band and omitting ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar:

With right side facing, using the set of four (or circular) No 9 needles and D, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) from back decreasing 1 stitch at centre, then pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches down left side of neck. [128 (132 : 144 : 144 : 156 : 156) sts].

Divide stitches evenly on 3 needles to facilitate working.
Work backwards and forwards, starting with 2nd row, and rib 42 (48 : 52 : 52 : 56 : 56) rows as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew short edges of collar in position to cast-off stitches on front, overlapping right side on to left for Her sweater and left on to right for His.

Join side seams and sleeve seams up to rib.
Join side edge of rib to cast-off stitches at start of armholes on back and front, then sew cast-off edge of rib to armhole edges.
Press seams.

Materials

Aran weight yarn: 10 (11 : 12 : 13 : 14 : 15) 50g balls in Navy and 6 (7 : 7 : 8 : 8 : 9) in Cream.

A pair each of Nos 9 (3¾mm) and 5 (5½mm) needles.
A set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles - or a circular needle.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 19 sts x 36 rows to 4 ins measured over pattern on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches, 86 (91 : 97 : 102 : 107 : 112) cm.
Length from top of shoulders: 25 (25 : 26 : 27 : 28 : 28) inches, 63 (63 : 66 : 69 : 71 : 71) cm.
Length of sleeve at centre: 19½ (19½ : 20½ : 21 : 22 : 22) inches, 49 (49 : 52 : 53 : 56 : 56) cm.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch purlwise with yarn at back.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Capstan - an Aran weight yarn knitting to a tension of 18 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch. No clues as to the yardage but it was a fairly dense pure wool so I would not expect it to have a long yardage

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2016

Duck Slippers for Easter

DucksSlippers.jpg

Cute little slippers with ducklings, or kittens.
Easy and quick to knit, with their very effective little pom-pom heads.
[I'm guessing that with a little adaptation you could close in the top of the slippers and stuff them to make tiny duckling toys - if you are feeling adventurous....?!]

Instructions

There are two sizes with instructions for the second size given in brackets.

Both versions:

Using either yellow (for duckling) or white (for kitten) and No 9 needles, cast on 20 (26) stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): sl1, k8(11), p2, k9(12)
2nd row: sl1, k9(12), m2 (1), k10(13)
3rd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k2(1), p1, k9(12)
4th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k2(1), m1, k10(13)
5th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k4(3), p1, k9(12)
6th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k4(3), m1, k10(13)
7th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k6(5), p1, k9(12)
8th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k6(5), m1, k10(13)
9th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(7), p1, k9(12). [28(33) sts]

2nd size only
10th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(7), m1, k-(13)
11th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(9), p1, k-(12)
12th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(9), m1, k-(13)
13th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(11), p1, k-(12). [28(37) sts]

Both sizes - continue as follows:

1st row: sl1, knit to end.
2nd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(11), p1, k9(12).

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2½ (3) inches ending with a 1st row.

Next row: sl1, {m1, k3}, 2(3) times, m1, k2, p1, {k2, m1} 3(4) times, k 2(3), p1, k2, {m1, k3} 2(3) times, m1, k1. [37(49) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 4½ () inches ending with right side facing.

Next row: k1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 1(2) times,rib 5, {k2tog} 1(2) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, k1.

Next row: rib 1(2), {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, p1, {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1(2).

Next row: {k2tog} 3(2) times, {k3tog} 1(3) times, {k2tog} 3 times. [7(8) sts]

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches; draw up tightly and fasten off securely.
Join toe seam along to start of garter stitch. Fold cast-on edge in half and join heel seam.

Completing the Duckling version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining yellow yarn, each 1½ inches in diameter.
[Editor's note: You can see how to make pom-poms in one of my other entries in 2013.]

Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 small circles of blue felt for eyes and sew to each side of the heads, ensuring that the needle passes through the centre of each pom-pom to keep the eyes secure.
Cut 2 beaks of yellow felt, fold in half and oversew along fold. Sew the beak in position to the centre front of the pom-poms, pushing fold of beak in towards centre of pom-pom and sewing in place securely.

Completing the Kitten version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining white yarn each 1½ inches in diameter. Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 triangles of pink felt for ears and sew one to each side on top of the heads with one point upwards, ensuring needle passes through the centre of the pom-pom to make the ears secure.
Cut 4 small ovals of blue felt for eyes and sew in position.
Cut 2 very small triangles of pink felt for nose and sew to centre front of face.
Thread 2 Strands of pink yarn through pompon from side to side of
face for whiskers, and trim. (See photo).

Materials

Duckling version:
1 x 50g ball in yellow.
Kitten version:
1 x 50g ball in white with scraps of pink for whiskers.

Pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Scraps of yellow, pink, and blue felt.

Tension

23sts x 48 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit 5-5½ (6-6½) sock size.

Abbreviations:

sl1: slip a stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.
m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
m2: make 2 stitches by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the front and back of it.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2016

Soft knit sash cardigan

SashCardigan.jpg

Cosy and snug wrap cardigan with a sash belt. I would probably knit it for myself as shown, but it may be more stylish if worn longer or over-sized and perhaps without pockets.

The original yarn was a soft heathered and slightly fluffy Shetland type. I think this would be lovely knitted in the hand-dyed yarn available from the Little Grey Sheep.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 4 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Note: Where a number of stitches is given, this refers to the basic number and does not include those made in the pattern.

[Editor's note: I have copied the note above from the original pattern - it will make more sense when you start knitting as the the number of stitches you end up with at the end of each row increases and decreases as part of the pattern stitch.]

Back

With No 11 needles, cast on 112 (120 : 126 : 132) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15), {ml, rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15)} 6 (5 : 6 : 6) times, ml, rib to end. [119 (126 : 133 : 139) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches , Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
3rd row:as 1st.
4th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
5th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p5, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, p5, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
6th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
7th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p7, k6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, p7, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
8th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
9th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p9, k6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches. p9, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
10th row: k 1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
11th row: as 7th.
12th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
13th row: as 5th.
14th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

These 14 rows form pattern for back.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures approximately 18 inches, ending with 14th pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern shape armholes as follows:

Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), k4 (1 : 7 : 1), * p3, k6 repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p4 (1 : 7 : 1), k 1
Next row: k5 (2 : 8 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, p 3, k5 (2 : 8 : 2).

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Cast off remaining 39 (40 : 41 : 43) stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 9 needles, cast on 30 stitches and work 29 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row
Next row: k6, (ml, k6) 4 times. [34 stitches].
Leave these stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**
With No 11 needles, cast on 54 (58 : 62 : 64) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 9 (11 : 15 : 14), {ml, rib 12 (12 : 16 : 12)} 3 (3 : 2 : 3) times, ml, rib to end: [58 (62 : 65 : 68) stitches]
*
*

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k6 (2 : 6 : 6), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches , Tw3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work a further 27 rows, thus ending with 1st pattern row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of first pocket lining, pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22).

Continue straight in pattern until 14 rows less have been worked than on back to start of armhole shaping, thus ending with 14th pattern row.

Shape front edge as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k4 (9 : 4 : 4), pattern to end.
Next row: pattern to last 8 (13 : 8 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p4 (9 : 4 : 4), k1.
Work 2 rows straight.

Decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58 : 61 : 64) stitches remain, keeping stitches at front edge in reverse stocking stitch as placed.

Work 1 row straight.

Next row: k11 (7 : 11 : 11), pattern to end.

Shape armhole as follows:
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p6 repeat from * to last 14 (10 : 14 : 14) stitches, Tw3 p10 (6 : 10 : 10), k1.

Keep armhole edge straight and continue to decrease 1 stitch at front edge on next and every following 4th row until 23 (24 : 25 : 27) stitches remain.

Note: When shaping at front edge do not continue panel pattern nearest this edge if there are insufficient stitches to work another complete pattern; instead take stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * k3, p 6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches, p3, k6 (2 : 6 : 6).
2nd row: k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern work a further 27 rows, thus ending after 1st pattern row, with right side facing for next row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch-holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of second pocket lining, pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12).
Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles, cast on 46 (48 : 50 : 52) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/ p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (7 : 7 : 6), {ml, rib 8 (5 : 4 : 5)} 4 (7 : 9 : 8) times, ml, rib to end. [51 (56 : 60 : 61) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, k3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.
Now continue in pattern as for back. Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row: k6 (4 : 6 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, p3, k6 (4 : 6 : 2).
2nd row: k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 12th (10th : 8th : 2nd), and then every following 4th row until there are 101 (108 : 114 : 121),stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.
Work straight until sleeve measures approximately 21 inches at centre, ending with 1st pattern row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.
Join shoulders, side and sleeve seams, leaving 2½ ( : 3 : 3), inches open at the top of sleeve seam; then insert the sleeves sewing rows left free at top along cast-off stitches on back and fronts at start of armholes.

Front Borders

Left: With No 11 needles, cast on 9 stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front and round to centre back of neck, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along. Cast off in rib.

Right: Work to correspond with left, with the addition of 7 buttonholes, first to come ½ inches up from lower edge, 7th at start of neck shaping and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left border with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end, then when knitting the next row back, cast on 3 over those cast off.

[Editor's note: If you are making an over-sized cardigan, you may wish to omit the buttonholes and just have the tie belt for closure.]

Pocket Tops

With right side facing and No 11 needles, k34 stitches from stitch holder, increasing 1 stitch in centre. [35 sts]
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib as for borders.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly on right side and pocket linings lightly on wrong side.

Belt

With No 11 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 52 (54 : 56 : 58) inches in rib as for front borders. Cast off evenly in rib.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

11 (12 : 12 : 13) x 50 gram balls Double Knitting in "Heather"

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

2 stitch-holders

7 buttons

Tension

27 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches; sleeve seam: 21 inches for all sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

Tw3: twist 3 sts by knitting 3rd stitch on left needle, then knit 2nd stitch, then knit 1st stitch and slip all 3 stitches off the needle together.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona. This was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 100 yards per 50g.

It is a slightly heavier weight DK so a worsted might make a good substitute. "Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2016

Blanket Coat

Coatigan1.jpg

....or "coatigan" *.
Shown on a chap but I would like it for me... and let's face it - he looks pretty silly - even for 1976 as I remember it....
It's a very simple knit being made up of rectangles in garter stitch - if I had a loom wide enough I would actually like to have a go at weaving the fabric - but here is the knitted version - plus a man's vest or slipover which is illustrated with it.

[* I believe I am not the only one who hates this word - I am not sure it adds anything much to the meaning but .... it is the jargon of the moment]

Coat Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The original coat was knitted in coloured stripes of garter stitch using a tweedy yarn. The basic design is very simple made up of block rectangles and can easily be knitted in a single colour if preferred.

Left Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 45 (47 : 49) stitches and work 5 rows in garter stitch.

Continue with double yarn and garter stitch and work 2 rows A; 6 rows C. Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, working in stripes as follows:
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C

These 42 rows form the striped pattern. Repeat them 4 times more, then rows 1-24 inclusive again. **

Continue in pattern but shaping neck as follows:
Next row: knit to the last 3 stitches, cast off 3.
Break yarn.

Rejoin yarn at neck edge and keeping side edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge the next 3 rows, then on the following 4 alternate rows, ending at side edge.

Shape shoulder as follows:
1st row: cast off 4 (5 : 6), knit to end
Work one row straight.
3rd row: cast off 5, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Work 1 row straight
5th row: cast off 5, knit to end.
Work 1 row
7th row: as 3rd row.

Now cast of 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 6) stitches.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Next row: Cast off 3, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with left front reversing shapings.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 95 (99 : 103) stitches. Continue with double yarn and work 5 rows in C; 2 rows A; 6 rows C.
Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, continue in garter stitch striped pattern as for left front.

Work straight until back measures same as front to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending with same row as left front.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, then 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 29 stitches.

Sleeves

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 105 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until sleeve measures 7 inches, ending with a 1st row.

Next row: k2 * k2tog, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k3. [90 sts]

Join in A and work in garter stitch striped pattern, as given for Left Front, repeating the 42 rows 3 times in all, and then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Cast off.

Right Border (for a man - left border for a woman)

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 15 stitches.

1st row (right side facing): k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until border fits up the front - when slightly stretched - to the start of the neck shaping, ending with a 2nd row.
Cast off in rib, and sew border in position.

Left Border (for a man - right border for a woman)

Work to correspond with right border, with the addition of 6 buttonholes, the first to come 6 inches up from the lower edge and the 6th to come ¾ inch below the start of the neck shaping and the rest spaced evenly in between.

First mark the positions of the buttons on the opposite border, and work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 6, cast off 3, rib to end. On the next row cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

Sew second border in position, taking care that the stripes are level with those on the opposite front.

Pockets (make 2)

With No 6 (5mm) needles and C, cast on 31 stitches and work in garter stitch stripes as follows:

5 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A

Break off B and A.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and join in an extra strand of C - using C yarn double, knit a further 5 rows.
Cast off knitwise.

Make a second pocket in the same way.

Collar

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 113 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows for 7 inches, ending with 2nd row, and cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.
Place a marker at side edges on back and fronts 9 inches down from shoulder seams, then sew cast-off edge of sleeves between markers.
Join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes and reversing seam for cuffs. Turn back 4 inch cuffs and catch in position on sleeve
seam.
Sew cast-on edge of collar to neck edge, starting and ending in centre of front borders.
Fold collar in half to right side and oversew double edges neatly.

Pin pockets on fronts, lower edge of pocket to come at start of 3rd broad stripe in C, 1¼ inches from side seam.
Sew pockets neatly in position taking care to match stripes with main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons

Materials

5 (5 : 6) 50g balls in colour A (beige); 4 (4 : 5) in B (pink); 8 (9 : 9) in C (olive) worsted or DK.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 38 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 34½ ins or 88 cm, all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

A word on the wool.

The original yarns was Patons Bracken Tweed which was a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The original yarn I remember from the 1960s was almost certainly 100% wool; however it seems a later incarnation was with 40% acrylic and it is likely that this pattern refers to that yarn. I can't offer any insights on yardage for either of these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Coatigan2.jpg


Coatigan6.jpg

Here is a version of the coat that I made. I have written copious notes about its construction in a blog entry "The Age of Aquarius"!


CoatiganSlipover.jpg

Slipover Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The slipover is worked in one colour.

Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 103 (107 : 113) stitches.

1st row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows for 4 inches, ending with a 2nd row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.

Next row (right side facing): knit 5 (7 : 4), k2tog, * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (8 : 5) stitches, knit to end. [87 (91 : 95) sts]

Continue in garter stitch and work straight until front measures 16 (16 : 16½) inches ending with right side facing.
**

Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69 (71 : 73) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Continue shaping armhole and shape neck as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k32 (33 : 34). Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 33 (34 : 35) stitches only for the first side, and work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 27 (28 : 29) stitches remain.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 4th row until 16 (17 : 18) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 25 (25 : 25½) inches, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 4 (4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4 (4 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **.
Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 67 (69 : 71) stitches remain, and then on every following 4th row until 61 (63 : 65) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front to shoulder at armhole edge.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:
Cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 4, k11 (11 : 12), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

1st row: k2tog, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast off 4, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 23 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press as for coat. Join right shoulder seam.

Neck Border:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left side of neck, k1 from safety pin, (mark this stitch), pick up and knit 53 stitches up right side, then 5 down shaped edge of back, k23 from spare needle, increasing 4 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 5 up left edge of back neck. [145 sts].

1st row (wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of centre marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of marked stitch, p2tog, k1, p2tog tbl, k1 ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more, and then 1st row again.
Cast off in rib decreasing at centre stitch as before.

Join left shoulder seam and border.

Armhole Borders:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 116 (118 : 120) stitches all round each armhole.
Work in 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.

Press seams.

Materials

Materials

6 (6 : 7) 50g balls in colour A (beige) worsted or double knitting.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 30 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 25 (25 : 25½) inches or 63 (63 : 65) cm.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2015

Midi Cardigan

MidiCardigan2.jpg

The trend for the winter is layers of knitwear, including long sleeveless cardigans, worn over knitted dresses, (which I would personally find too warm in this era of stifling central heating in most public spaces). However, there are other ways to wear it especially "between seasons" - and this is a nice example from the seventies, (but not too dissimilar to those around at the moment).

I have seen examples where front and back are split up the sides, which would give it a modern edge; this design is knitted "all in one" up to the armholes but if you are a more experienced knitter you could work out how to make fronts and backs separate up to about mid thigh.

Cardigan Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.
If you want to separate the backs and fronts up to mid thigh, you can do this and knit the first section of the pattern on each piece up to the start of the side shaping. If you do this, you might keep 2 or 3 edge stitches at the sides in garter or moss stitch until they are joined.
Join the pieces on the first "shape sides" row.
Note that you need to ensure the yarn you are using has a suitable drape for this style ie the knitted fabric is not too firm, and you will have to work out how to place the pattern stitches to keep continuity, when you join them.

Pocket linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work 5½ inches in stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p2, m1p, (p6, m1p) 5 times, p2. [40 sts]

Leave stitches on a spare needle and make second pocket lining the same.

Back and Fronts

With No 10 needles, cast on 290 (308 : 326 : 344) stitches and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 8 needles.
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k 10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): pl, * (Tw2L, pl) twice, p6, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k8, pl, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, pl) twice, p4, (p1, Tw2R) twice; p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1, * (k2, p1) twice, k6, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, kl.
5th row: p1, * p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice, k1 : repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: pl, * p3, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p. l, Tw2R) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p.l.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p3, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R., p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: k1, * k3, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
11th row:p1, * p. 3, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p3; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: p1, * p3, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 8th.
15th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 6th.
17th row: p1,* p1, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: as 4th.
19th row: p1,* (p1, Tw2R) twice, p6, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 2nd.
21st row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p6, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
22nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
23rd row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p10, k1, p2, k1,repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
24th row: as 22nd.

Repeat the last 24 rows twice more, then rows 1 to 22 inclusive again.

[Editor's note: If you have knitted fronts and back separate to this point, join them here - on the last or the following row.]

Shape sides as follows:

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2 tog, p6, p2tog, k1,p. 2, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1. [258 (274 : 290 : 306) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p4, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, k 1: repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1,* p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, pl) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p2, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.
10th row: as 8th.
11th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 6th.
13th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 4th.
15th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 2nd.
17th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1 ) twice, p4, (p1 Tw2L) twice; repeat
from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
19th row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 18th.

Repeat the last 20 rows once more, then rows 1 to 12 inclusive again.

Place pocket linings as follows:

Next row: pattern 17, * slip next 40 stitches on a stitch-holder, and in place of these, pattern across 40 stitches of one pocket lining *, pattern to last 57 stitches, repeat from * to *, pattern last 17 stitches.

Work a further 7 rows straight in pattern, then work rows 1 to 18 inclusive again.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, p4, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [226 (240 : 254 : 268) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

**
Continue in pattern as follows:
1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1, * k1, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p1, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, pl.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: pl, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: as 4th.
11th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 2nd.
13th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: p1,* k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 14th.
**

Repeat the last 16 rows once more, then rows 1 to 14 inclusive again.

Next row: as 15th.
Next row: as 14th.

The last 2 rows form bodice pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 35 inches at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck and at the same time divide for fronts as follows:

Next row: cast off 7, pattern 49 (52 : 56 : 59), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for RIGHT FRONT, shaping armhole and neck as follows:
Next row: cast off 8, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 29 (32 : 32 : 35) stitches remain, then at each end of next and every alternate row until, 19 (22 : 22 : 25) stitches remain.

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at armhole edge on following 1 (3 : 2 : 4) alternate rows. [18 (19 : 20 : 21) sts]

Work straight until front measures 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches at centre, ending with wrong side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; cast off 8, pattern 106 (114 : 120 : 128), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a
spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for BACK, shaping armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row, until 86 (94 : 96 : 104) stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row, until 74 (78 : 82 : 86) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Leave remaining 38 (40 : 42 : 44) stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches for LEFT FRONT, cast off 8, pattern to end.

Next row: cast off 7, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Front Borders:

Left: With No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k2, (p1, k 1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k 1) 5 times.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front to start of neck shaping when slightly stretched, ending with 2nd row.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin at top and sew border neatly in position.

Right: Work to correspond with left border with the addition of 12 buttonholes. 1st to come 7½ inches above lower edge, and 12th to come 2¼ inches below start of neck shaping, with the remainder
spaced evenly between. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end; on the next row, cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing and taking care not to over-press and spoil the pattern.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and knit 116 (128 : 128 : 140) stitches round each armhole and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join shoulder seams.

Neck Border: With right side facing and No10 needles, work as follows:
Rib 11 border stitches , pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 38 (40 : 42 : 44) from back decreasing 1 stitch in centre, pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) down left side, rib 11 from left border. [163 (173 : 175 : 185) sts]

Work 1 row k1/p1 rib as for border. Make 13th buttonhole in next 2 rows as before, then work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Tops:

With right side facing and No 10 needles, knit across each set of 40 pocket stitches, decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [39 sts]
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib as for border.
Cast off in rib.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

16 (17 : 19 : 20) 1oz balls in Tweed Grey double knitting yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

13 buttons.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in four sizes to fit chest: 32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches.
Length from top of shoulders 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

Tw2L: purl into back of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Tw2R: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona, which appeared in both 1oz and later 50g balls.It was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 104 yards per 50g.
Note that this pattern calls for 1oz balls (1oz is about 28g).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hat Instructions.

With No 10 needles, cast on 104 stitches, and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Next row: rib 1, m1p, * rib 2, m1p; repeat from * to last stitch, rib 1. [156 sts]

Change to No 8 needles.
1st row:
p1, * k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work 16 rows in pattern as for main part from ** to ** as given in cardigan instructions to make one diamond pattern panel (see photo).
Then repeat 1st and 2nd rows above, 7 times.

Shape crown as follows:
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [145 sts]

Keeping continuity of pattern, work 1 row straight.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch,
p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from last stitch, p1.
Work 1 .row straight. [123 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight. [101 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
[79 sts]
Work 1 row straight.

Change to stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and continue shaping as follows:

Next row: k3, k2tog, * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4 : 68 stitches Next row: purl.
Next row: k3, k2tog , * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches , k3.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, k2tog,* k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. [46 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k2; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from to end. [24 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [12 sts]

Break yarn. Thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly and fasten off.

Press work very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join centre back seam.
Press seam.

Materials

2 x 1 oz balls of double knitting yarn.

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size "to fit an average head".

Abbreviations

As given for cardigan above.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Cape Swings into Fashion

LinedCape.jpg

This is an earlier version of a knitted cape and includes a (knitted) lining - so potentially nice and warm. I thought it was a good option to publish alongside the seventies version.
The lining is knitted but if you did not want to commit to all that knitting I think it might be simple enough to cut out the shapes in fabric to create the lining - as long as you choose a material that's not too stiff or thick, although the cape as shown seems to be styled with quite a firm structure.
Of course you could easily knit the cape in a plain stitch instead of the pattern illustrated.

Instructions.

Instructions for only one medium size - could be adapted by using a thicker yarn and bigger needles - but do work out your tension to check the size.

Cape section (make 6)

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and D, cast on 80 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): in B k5, * with wool at back, slip 2 purlwise, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
2nd row: in B k1, * wool forward, slip 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: in D k3, * wool forward, sl 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
4th row: in D k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
5th row: in B k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: in B k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[Editor's note: the next 6 rows are repeats of the first 6 but reversing the colours.]

7th row: in D k5, *SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
8th row: in D k1, * SL 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: in B k3, * wool forward, SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
10th row: in B k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
11th row: in D k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
12th row: in D k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Repeat the 12 pattern rows 3 times more, then the first 6 rows again.

Keeping pattern correct and keeping a knit stitch at each end of every purl row, as before, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row, until 46 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 34 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 20 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.
Cast off in D.

Make 5 more sections in same way.

Lining section (make 6)

With No 10 (3½mm) needles cast on 70 stitches and work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next row: knit.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Place a marker at each end and in the centre of the last row.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch for a further 38 rows.
With wrong side facing, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until 40 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Make 5 more sections in the same way.

To Make Up

Use a large tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of wool for sewing,
taking care the wool remains twisted during making up.

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Using a fine back stitch seam (or mattress stitch), join 4 sections of the cape together at the side edges.

Now join one of the 2 remaining sections to one side of cape as follows (to make armhole slits at the front):
Join sides together for 4 inches from lower edge.
Leave the next 8 inches open for arm slits, then join remainder of side seam. Join remaining section to other side in the same way.

Join the lining in the same way, measuring the 4 inches up to the arm slits from the purl ridge.
Press seams.

Pin cape to lining, wrong sides together, lower edge of cape in line with markers on lining ; tack in position.
Sew hem of lining neatly to edge of cape, then catch lining to cape round arm slits.

Right Front Border: With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row: k6, SL 1, k6.
2nd row: purl.

Repeat these 2 rows until strip fits up right front edge when stretched, ending with right side facing.
Note: For a good fit band needs to be 3 inches shorter than edge of cape.

Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Left Front Border: Work as for right border, ending with wrong side facing.
Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Sew one edge of border in position to cape, from lower edge to 9 inches below neck, without stretching. Now ease the last 9 inches of the front edge on to the remainder of the band.
Fold the borders in half at the slipped stitch, and sew the other edge in position to the lining.

Neck Border: With right side of cape facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, k6 stitches of right border, pick up and knit 14 stitches from the top of each section, k6 border stitches. [96 sts]

Work 5 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Next row: purl.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 4 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.

Fold the neck border in half at the ridge, and slip-hem in position to the lining. Sew on fastenings as in photo.
Give cape a final light press.

Materials

22 x 1oz balls in DK yarn D (Ocean Deep ), and 9 balls in yarn B (Banff Brown).

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 8 (4mm) and 7 (4½mm) needles.

Clasp hooks to fasten.
[Editor's note: You can find a good selection at the Textile Garden]

Tension

The tension is given as 26sts and 42 rows to 4 inches over the pattern on No 7 needles.
[Editor's note: the pattern stitch alters the tension making it much tighter than a plain stitch, so if you plan to knit the cape plain you will need to carefully check the tension and needles size.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size sizes to fit chest: 34-38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders 27 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

sl 1 (or sl 2): slip 1 (or 2) stitches by passing the stitch from one needle to the other without knitting it.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Fiona - a slightly fluffy Shetland double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Wraparound Midi Cape

WraparoundCape.jpg

Capes being the thing of the moment (though maybe not quite like this one).
Styled "Edwardian" from the early 1970s - hence the floppy hat and slightly whimsical setting a la Laura Ashley - I might choose to make this somewhat shorter, plain rather than striped, and use a tweed or textured yarn of some sort.

So.... a midi cape - and if that were not wonderful enough... it comes with matching trousers! How great is that?!

Cape Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The cape is knitted in stripes of 3 different yarns - labelled Medium, Light and Dark - the Medium (or Main) colour is a bouclé and the Light (Red) and Dark (Brown) are smooth yarns.

Back

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 92 (98 : 104) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (3 : 6) m1, * rib 6 (7 : 7), m1 ; repeat from * to last 7 (4 : 7) stitches, rib 7 (4 : 7). [106 (112 : 118) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work in stripes as follows:

1st and 2nd rows: in D.
3rd to 6th rows:
in M.
7th and 8th rows: in L.
9th to 12th rows: in M.

These 12 rows form the striped pattern. [Note: Carry yarns loosely up side of work.]

Continue in pattern and work a further 12 rows straight.

Shape sides:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.
Repeat the last 12 rows until 70 (76 : 82) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 32 inches (81 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.
Place a marker at each end of last row.

Continue decreasing 2 stitches as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 38 (44 : 50) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30 : 32) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 46 (48 : 52) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 (3 : 3) m1, * rib 8 (7 : 9), m1 ; repeat from * to last 3 (3 : 4) stitches, rib 3 (3 : 4). [52 (55 : 58) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping side edge as follows:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to end.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 34 (37 : 40) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back to marker, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Now decrease 1 stitch as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Continue decreasing at the side edge on every 4th row from previous decrease, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 9 (13 : 16) stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the side edge as before, but on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time continue decreasing at neck edge on the next and following 1 (3 : 5) alternate rows. [5 (5 : 4) stitches remain].

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at side edge as before on following 2 (2 : 1) alternate rows. [3 sts]

Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, k2tog.
Next row: p2.
Next row:
k2tog.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'togtbl' when shaping side edge.

Side Panels (make 2)

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 80 (84 : 88) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 1 (3 : 5), m1, * rib 7, m1 ; repeat from * last 2 (4 : 6) stitches, rib 2 (4 : 6). [92 (96 : 100) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles, and stocking stitch, and starting with a knit row, work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping sides as follows:

Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2togtbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 56 (60 : 64) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until work matches back to markers, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Continue decreasing as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 28 (32 : 36) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 10 stitches remain all sizes.
Work 1 row straight.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Make a second side in the same way.

Left Front Border

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 9 sts.

1st rows (right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 4 times.

Repeat the last 2 rows until the strip fits up the left front to the start of the neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a safety-pin at the top and sew border in position.

Right Front Border

Work to correspond with the left border with the addition of 13 buttonholes. The first buttonhole is to come 4 inches (10 cm) up from the lower edge, and the 13th is 2 inches (5 cm) below the start of the neck shaping; the remainder are spaced evenly between.

First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.
Pin side panels to back; join panels up to markers matching stripes carefully, then join the remainder of the seam.

In the same way, join the front panels to side panels, leaving 9 inch (23 cm) slits for hands, bottom of slit to come 18½ inches (47 cm) up from the lower edge.
[Editor's note: If you are making a shorter cape you will need to work out where you need to put the slits for the arms.]

Right Slit Border:
With No 10 needles and M, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the front edge of the slit and work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Left slit border: work to correspond.

Neck Border:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and M, work as follows:

Rib 9 from right border, pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) stitches up right side of neck, k10 from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, 28 (30 : 32) stitches from back decreasing 3 stitches evenly, 10 stitches from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, then pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) down left side, and finally rib 9 from left border. [91 (95 : 99) stitches.

Work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows as before, then work 12 rows. Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows, then work 4 rows in rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Fold neck border in half to the wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position all round. Oversew loosely round double buttonhole.

Catch down short ends of slit borders neatly to main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

13 (13 : 14) 50g balls in a bouclé DK yarn M (Terrazo), and 3 (3 : 4) 50g balls each DK yarn D (Loam Brown) and yarn L (Red Earth).

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

14 buttons and 2 press studs

Tension

The tension is given as 20sts and 30 rows to 4 inches overall using the striped pattern on No 8 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 32-34 (34-38 : 40-42) inches or 81-86 (91-96 : 101-106) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 41½ (42 : 42½) inches or 105 (106 : 108) cm.

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarns were: Patons Totem - a standard double knitting using 4mm needles, and:
Patons Camelot (about which there is some misleading information on the web); it is a bouclé yarn knitted on 4mm needles with a stated tension of 19 sts to 4 inches - which makes it a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The pattern knits these yarns alternately in stripes and this overcomes their differences. In substituting I would look for any DK or worsted weight that I liked and experiment with needle sizes to get the stated tension.

I can't offer any insights on yardage for these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


WraparoundCape2.jpg

Trousers Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The trousers are worked in one colour.

Left Leg

**
With No 10 needles, cast on 86 (90 : 96 : 100 : 106 : 110) stitches, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 4 (6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 6), m1, * rib 11 (11 : 12 : 12 : 13 : 14), m1; repeat from * to last 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6) stitches, rib 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6). [94 (98 : 104 : 108 : 114 : 118) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until leg measures 25 (25 : 25½ : 25½ : 26 : 26) inches (63 (63 : 65 : 65 : 66 : 66) cm), ending with right side facing.

Shape leg as follows:

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 45 (47 : 50 : 52 : 55 : 57), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 47 (49 : 52 : 54 : 57 : 59), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 49 (51 : 54 : 56 : 59 : 61), m1, k1) twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 (100 : 106 : 110 : 116 : 120) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 74 (78 : 88 : 92 : 102 : 106) stitches remain; then on every following 6th row until 66 (70 : 76 : 80 : 86 : 90) stitches remain.
**

Work 1 row straight.

***

Shape back as follows:

1st row: k29, turn.
2nd row and every alternate row: purl to end.
3rd row: k24, turn.
5th row: k19, turn.
7th row: k14, turn.
9th row: k9, turn.
11th row: k4, turn.
13th row: knit across all stitches picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and working it together with the next stitch to avoid a hole.

Change to No. 10 needles and work 1 inch (2 cm) k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Right Leg

Work as for left leg from ** to **.
Then work from *** to end, reading 'p' for 'k' and 'k' for 'p'.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.

Joint front, back and inside leg seams.
Press seams.

Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew to the inside of the waist ribbing using herringbone-stitch over the over the elastic to form a casing.

Materials

10 (10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 12) 50g balls of bouclé double knitting yarn (colour Terrazo)

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist of Trousers.

Tension

19 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

The pattern is given in six sizes to fit hips:

34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches;
[86 (91 : 96 : 101 : 106 : 111) cm].
Length of inside leg seam:
28 (28 : 28½ : 28½ : 29 : 29) inches;
[71 (71 : 72 : 72 : 73 : 73) cm].

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2015

Guernsey Socks

GuernseySocks5.jpg

One of my earliest POMs was for a "flag dishcloth" as I really like this traditional Guernsey pattern. These are 5ply socks which reflect this design on the upper part of the sock - the feet are knitted plain. This is a nice wool weight if you want a slightly thicker sock, and no need to be limited to navy or cream (nice though that is), as 5ply is generally available in a good range of colours.
It can also be a good way to use up left over 5 ply, especially if you bought the wool for a guernsey in large cones.

Instructions (work 2 alike).

Using No 11 needles, cast on 102sts.
Place 34sts on each of 3 needles and join in the round.
Place a stitch marker to show where the rounds start and finish.

First Round: * K2tog, k1, p2tog, p1. Repeat from * to end. [68 sts]

[Editor's note: Casting on 2 or 3 times the required stitches and then immediately decreasing on the first row provides a method of making sure you have a nice loose cast-on for the top of the sock. Otherwise chaps have a habit of yanking on their socks and right away breaking the first row of stitches, (ask me how I know...).]

Work 2 rounds in k2, p2 rib, then change to No 12 needles and work 8 more rounds in rib.

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round: Purl.
Next Round: Purl.

Change to No 11 needles and knit 1 round.

Flag Pattern

This pattern is worked down the leg as far as the ankle.

1st Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p2, k9; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * p3, k1, p5, k8, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p4, k7; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * p3, k1, p7, k6, repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p6, k5; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: * p3, k1, p9, k4, repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p8, k3; repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * p3, k1, p11, k2, repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p10, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * p3, k1, p13 repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 10 pattern rows 3 more times.
[Editor's note: You can, of course, repeat the 10 rows more times for a longer sock, but bear in mind you will need extra wool.]

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round (decrease): (p5, p2tog) to last 5 sts, p5. [59 sts]
Next Round (decrease): (k2tog, k18) twice; k2tog, k17. [56 sts].

Knit 3 rounds.

Divide for heel

Next Row: K14; turn.
1st Row: Slip 1; p27; turn.

Divide the remaining stitches on to two needles and leave to pick up later for the instep.

2nd Row: Slip 1; k27.
3rd Row: Slip 1; p27.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, 12 times more.

Turn Heel

Next Row: K18, slip 1, k1, psso (pass the slipped stitch over), turn.

Next Row: P9, p2tog, turn.
Next Row: K9, slip 1, k1, psso, turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all stitches are taken up and 10 sts remain, and (right side of work facing) knit across the 10 sts, then, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel.
Slip all instep sts on to one needle, and using 2nd needle knit across instep sts.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel, then knit 5 heel sts from the first needle, slipping them on the end of the 3rd needle to complete the round. [66 sts].

Shape instep:

Knit one round on all stitches.

Next round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 56 stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5½(6, 6½) inches, or desired length for foot.

Shape Toe:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

2nd round: Knit.
3rd round: Knit.

Repeat these 3 rounds until 28 sts remain.

Making Up

Knit stitches from 1st needle on to end of 3rd needle.
Graft or cast off the two sets of 14 sts together.

Materials

2 x 50g balls British Breeds Guersey 5ply

One set of 4 number 12 (2¾mm) needles, (or 2½mm if necessary), and,
one set of 4 number 11 (3mm) needles.

A stitch marker.

Tension

26sts and 32 rows to four inches on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit men's shoe sizes: 10 (10½, 11).

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: knit/purl 2 sts together.

SL 1: slip 1 stitch

SL 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2015

Nice and Easy ... hat and scarf

NiceNEasyHat2.jpg

This is the month for the Sailor's Society** "woolly hat week" (8th-14th February 2015). So I thought I would post this hat and scarf combination - easy to knit in 4 ply fingering weight knitting yarn - perhaps suitable for a sailor if you omit the pom-pom decoration!

You can find other patterns as well as where to send your hats on their website link above. Also see my previous POM from 2008 with other chunky hat patterns - including my all time favourite appropriately knitted in Fisherman's rib.

Here's what Hannah says: "Our international network of port chaplains and ship visitors give your amazing hats out to seafarers visiting port, while others are wrapped and included in the Christmas welfare parcels that are taken on board ship for the festive season. The need for more hats is ever-increasing! Drew, our Port Chaplain in Invergordon, has been known to give out 500 in a day on occasion!"

Instructions

Panels of moss stitch and flag stitch are used for this cosy scarf and pull on hat. The scarf is fringed and the hat trimmed with a large pom-pom.

Scarf

Cast on 72 sts
1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
2nd row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k6, p2; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
4th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k4, p4; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
6th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
8th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, p8; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until scarf measures 167½ cm (66 inches) from beginning, (or however long you want the scarf to be) ending with an 8th pattern row.

Cast off.

To make up the Scarf

Do not press.
Cut yarn into 30½ cm (12 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe into every alternate stitch along cast on and cast off edges.

Hat

Cast on 144 stitches.

Work in pattern as given for scarf, but without the moss stitch border on both sides. So set out your rows as follows:

1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * end.
2nd row: * k6, p2; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k4, p4; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to end.
6th row: * k2, p6; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p8; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.

Continue until work measures 25½ cm (10 inches) from beginning, ending with an 8th pattern row.

Shape crown

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, p2, ybk, sl 1, yfwd, p2tog, psso, p2; repeat from * to end of row. [126 sts]

Next row: * k4, p2, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k2, sl 1, p2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * to end of row. [108 sts]

Next row: * k1, p3, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [90 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 7, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [72 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [54 sts]

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 18 sts remain. Break off yarn, thread through sts, draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Do not press.
Join back seam reversing 7½ cm (3 inches) at lower edge.
Press seam lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron.
Turn back brim.

Trim with a large pom-pom.

Materials

7 x 50g balls 4 ply (fingering) yarn.

One pair 3¾ mm (UK 9) needles.
[Editor's note: If you can't find 3¾ mm needles then you can use 3½ mm .]

Tension

26sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over moss stitch on 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 28 cm (11 inches) wide, by 167½ cm (66 inches) long, excluding fringe
Hat: to fit average adult head, width round crown 56 cm (22 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: purl 2 sts together.

ybk: put yarn to back of work.

yfwd: put yarn to front of work.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1 / k2tog / p2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 stitch).

sl 1, k2tog (p2tog), psso: slip 1, k2tog, (p2tog), pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 2 sts).

moss stitch: knit alternate sts k1/p1 but place the knit stitch over a purl in the row below and the purl stitch over a knit stitch. (Also called "seed stitch").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

NiceNEasyHat3.jpg

** Please note that the Sailors Society does seem to be a religious organisation, which I mention not through any disapproval on my part, but in case you would care to look at their website and ensure its aims do not go against anything you believe in.

January 2015

Tweed Cardigan Coat

TweedCoat1.jpg

Wonderfully stylish mid-1950s tweed coat-style cardigan. I had to leave the background in the photo - indicating knitwear alla moda - and an exotic photo-shoot.

"Double-knitting and bouclet are worked together to produce this attractive tweed-knit fabric."

The style is simple enough to knit (all boxy shapes) and one feels could be adapted to larger sizes. However the real issue here will be choosing an appropriate yarn; the pattern indicates it is mostly knitted in a bouclé yarn knitted double and yet the resulting tension seems relatively fine (over the pattern stitch).

Instructions.

The DK is used singly throughout and the Bouclet is used double with either one ball of white together with one ball of black or two balls of black, as stated in the pattern instructions.

Back

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 142 sts fairly loosely and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in double boucle.
2nd row: Knit in double boucle.
3rd row: Join in DK.
* Slip 2 purlways, k3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: * Slip 2 purlways, p3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
5th row: As first row
6th row: As first row.
7th row: * k2 in DK, slip 3 purlways; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2 in DK.
8th row: * p2 DK; slip 3 purlways: repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2 DK.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ inches at centre. Place a coloured thread at each end of the row here to mark the start of the armholes as no actual shaping is done.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 24½ inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next 10 rows; cast off remainder.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet, cast on 32 sts and work about 2½, inches straight in pattern, ending with a row on the wrong side; leave sts on a spare needle. Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 82 sts and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with same pattern row as the pocket lining. Here start pocket opening.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts; (slip last 67 sts on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being); pattern across 32 sts of one of the pocket linings [47 sts]

Work 5½ inches straight in pattern on these 47 stitches, ending with a row on the right side of the work.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 32 fairly loosely and pattern to end; leave these 15 sts on a second spare needle or a needle holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining 67 sts.
Continue straight in pattern on these 67 sts for 5½ inches ending with same pattern row as the 15 sts on the spare needle.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts on spare needle, then on to the same needle pattern across the last 67 sts [82 sts]

Continue straight in pattern over all stitches until front matches back to
start of armholes. Thread a coloured marker as before. Continue straight in pattern until front measures 22 inches.
With wrong side facing, continue in pattern and shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next, and every following row, 32 times.

Then keep the neck edge straight, and at the same time, when front
matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge).

Right Front:

Work as for the left, reversing all shapings and making
5 buttonholes up the front edge. The first to come about 3 inches
from the lower edge, and the 5th about inch below front of neck shaping - the remainder evenly spaced between.
Mark the position of the buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, pattern 3, cast off 4, pattern to end.
On the next row pattern up to the cast off sts and cast on 4 over those cast off in previous row; pattern to end.

For the right front, your 1st row of the pocket shaping will read:

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 67 sts and slip on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being. With right side
facing, pattern across 32 sts of the remaining pocket lining, then pattern
across 15 sts from main work. [47 sts]

Finish to correspond with left front reversing the instructions in line with the above.

Sleeves:

With No 12 needles and double black bouclet, cast on 62 sts and work 1½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Break off 1 ball of black and join in 1 ball of white bouclet.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 136 sts , taking extra the extra sts into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 15½ inches.

Cast off right across fairly loosely.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, begin at right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 42 sts across back of neck, * turn and rib back, picking up and purling 4 sts from side of neck at end of row; turn and rib back, picking up and knitting 4 sts from
side of neck at end of row; repeat from * 6 times more. [98 sts]

Rib to end of row; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert sleeves neatly between markers.

Face both front edges on wrong side with ribbon, turning under 1 stitch of the knitting as you do so and taking care not to stretch the knitting. Cut holes in the ribbon to correspond with those in the knitting, then oversew around the holes with matching sewing cotton.

The original pattern intended for you to cover button moulds with rounds of single black bouclet in double crochet, drawing crochet
together at back of button. Otherwise use purchased buttons of an appropriate size.
Sew on buttons and press studs - one at neck, the other at lower edge.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, pick up and knit 26 sts down front piece of each pocket slit.
Cast off.
Catch down to main work at corners; catch down pocket linings.

Press all seams.

Materials

Double Knitting: 11 ozs in white;
Bouclet yarn: 13 ozs in black and 11 ozs white.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Five large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

2 press fasteners

11 yards 2 inch wide black ribbon.

Tension

24 stitches to 4 inches over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 35-37 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 25 inches; sleeve seam: 15½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The striking style of the coat is created using the yarn double with black and white together to create a tweed effect.
It is possible to get fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting. You could also substitute with a slightly fluffy yarn - Phildar and Pingouin used to do a slightly fuzzy 4 ply.

If you hate knitting double you might find a loopy tweed DK or worsted yarn which knits to the right tension. But you will need to find it in a solid version to match (because some parts of the pattern are knitted in black bouclet alone) - as well as the toning DK smooth yarn.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. The number of ounces of an obsolete yarn with no yardage provided is of little help.

Whatever you choose - knit a swatch!

TweedCoat2.jpg

October 2014

Coolie Hat

CoolieHat.jpg

An amusing little tweed hat from the 1950s for you to crochet.
It uses the same yarn and technique as the tweed coat for January 2015.

Instructions.

Note: The Bouclet is used double throughout with one ball of white together with one ball of black.

Begin at the centre crown.

Make 4 chain, join into a ring with a slip stitch

1st round: 9 dc through centre of ring, join with a slip stitch
2nd round: 3 ch; * 2 half trebles in 1 dc, 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 3 times more; join with a slip stitch to top of 3 ch
All following half treble rounds are joined as in this round.
3rd round: 1 ch; * 2 dc in 1 htr, 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * 6 times more, join with a slip stitch to top of 1st ch
All following dc rounds are joined as in this round.

4th round: 3 ch; * 2 htr in 1 dc , 1 htr in l dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
5th round: 1 ch;* 2 dc in 1 htr, 2 dc in 2 htr; repeat from * 9 times more.
6th round: 3 ch; * 2 htr in 1 dc , 3 htr in 3 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
7th round:
1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
8th round:
3 ch; * 4 htr in 4 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc ; repeat from * 9 times more.
9th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
10th round:
3 ch, * 5 htr in 5 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc ; repeat from * 9 times more.
11th round:
1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
12th round: 3 ch; * 6 htr in 6 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
13th round:
1 ch;* 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
14th round:
3 ch; *7 htr in 7 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
15th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
16th round: 3 ch; * 8 htr in 8 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
17th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
18th round: 3 ch; * 9 htr in 9 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
19th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
20th round: 3 ch; * 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * all round.
21st round: As 19th round.
22nd round:
As 20th round.
23rd round: As 19th round.

Fasten off.

Brim

Make 100 ch, join into a ring with a slip stitch.

1st round: 100 dc in 100 ch.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th rounds: As 1st round.
5th round: 3 ch, * 1 htr in 1 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 49 times more.
6th round: Lay wire along edge of round just worked and work over the wire with 1 dc in 1 htr all round.
Cut wire allowing it to overlap by about 2 inches.

7th round: 3 ch, * 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * all round, join with a slip stitch.
8th - 11th rounds: As 6th round but
working over wire.
Cut wire leaving about 2 inches.

Fasten off securely.

To Make Up

Sew over bare ends of wire with wool.
Join brim to crown by placing the right sides together and work a row of back stitching g-inch in from edge.
Place hat over a basin and press with warm iron and a damp cloth.

Materials

2 ozs each in black and white of "bouclet" yarn.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A No 10 (3¼mm ) crochet hook
[Editor's note: If you cannot get a 3¼mm hook then you can use 3½mm or equivaent to get the right tension]

Millinery wire

Tension

10dc measures 2 inches

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
htr: half treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The orginal yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The tweed effect of the hat is created using the yarn double with black and white together.
It is possible to find fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting.

However, I think it is quite hard to work with yarn doubled at the best of times. I can only imagine that a bouclé would be even worse, and to crochet like this .... well you would need to be very determined. In defence of the original pattern, I think the bouclet specified was not a very loose loopy yarn; I believe it just has a gentle ripple in the spin.

So given that you have to find a substitute anyway, I would look for some kind of textured yarn which will give the right tension with a single strand - that would be a worsted or Aran weight - bearing in mind that the work is intended to have a tight tension to make a firm fabric suitable for a hat - even though you have some support with the wire.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. I have no yardage information to offer.

Whatever you choose - try out a swatch!

February 2014

Cross Season Jumper

CrossSeason1.jpg CrossSeason2.jpg

I thought this looked like highly wearable jumper with a very flattering neckline. From the picture it looks like it has bracelet length sleeves - which I very much favour - but the instructions imply they are full length; I like the look of the pushed-up sleeves in the photo so much that I think I would knit them shorter. There is shaping through the body but this could be omitted - you would need to cast on 106 (112) instead of 94 (100) and knit straight to the armhole.

The pattern suggests using a violet colour but I envisioned it in chartreuse.

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

‡‡

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 94 (100) stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k10, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, k10.

2nd row: p10, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, p10.

3rd row: p10, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, p10.

4th row: k10, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, k10.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

CrossSeason3.jpg

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 4 inches.
With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 st at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 106 (112) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 14½ (15) inches.

‡‡

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5(5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate rows until 86 (90) stitches remain.
Work straight until back measure 22½ (23) inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of next 4 rows, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 32 (34) stitches.

Front

Work as back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

With right side facing, shape armholes and divide for neck as follows:

Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern 47 (50).
Turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end, taking the 2 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [49 (52) sts]

Continue shaping armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on next and following 4 (5) alternate rows. [44 (46) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front opening measures 2 inches.

With wrong side facing, cast on 10 sts for collar, pattern to end, taking the 10 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [54 (56) sts]

Work straight until outside edge of collar measures 2 inches from the 10 cast-on stitches.
With wrong side facing, cast on a further 5 sts, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Continue straight on the remaining 32 (33) stitches for 2½ inches.
Cast off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 54 (57) sts, pattern to end.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 st at armhole edge on following 5 (6) alernate rows. [44 (46) sts].

Finish to correspond with first shoulder, with reversed shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 (50) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 2(3) sts evenly across last row.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern across as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, k6.

2nd row: p6, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, p6.

3rd row: p6, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, p6.

4th row: k6, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, k6.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern increasing 1 stitch at end of next and every following 8th row until there are 76 (79) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (17) inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 (4) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternat row until 30 (37) sts remain, then at each end of every row untl 14 (15) sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the ridge pattern.
Join collar at centre back neatly with a flat edge-to-edge seam.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew collar neatly along back of neck.
Catch down 2 cast-on stitches at start of neck opening on wrong side.
Press all seams.

Materials

20 (22) ozs. Patons Double Knitting, in Violet.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 35-36 (37-38) inches; length from top of shoulders, 22½ (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 16½ (17) ins.

Abbreviations

Cross2K: knit into back of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Cross2P: purl into front of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2014

Stormcheater

Stormcheater.jpg

Another scarf/hood combination from the 1940s that is the partner of last year's pattern. It has a firm headband to frame the face, and a pocket construction at the back (see photo below) to keep that forties hairdo in good shape. The scarf ties are double thickness.

The Back with elastic casing:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: Slip 1, k1, * wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat the 3rd row 4 times.
8th row: Slip 1, k2tog, wfd;* k1, wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back; repeat from * to the last 3sts; k1, wfd k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd Row 3 times.

12th row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Cast off.

The Head Piece:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:

1st row: K2tog, knit to the last 2sts k2tog.
2nd row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until 68sts remain.
Cast off.

The Border:

Cast on 120sts.
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 11 times; the 2nd row twice; then the 1st and 2nd rows 12 times.
Cast off.

To Make Up the Stormcheater

Press each piece separately on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew the cast on edge of the back to the cast on edge of the head piece.
Commencing at this seam, sew the shaped side edges together for 14½ inches.
Fold back the cast on edge of the border to the centre (the knit row on the wrong side of the work formed by the purl row on the right side of the work); place a roll of cotton wool under this fold then sew the cast on edge to the last purl row before the knit row.
Fold back the cast off edge, pad with cotton wool to form a second roll and sew in position to correspond.
Place the open end of one padded rollover the other open end and sew both ends together.
Sew this end of the roll to the edge of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the other ends of the padded rolls in the same manner and sew to the other side of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the shaped edge of the head piece to the seam of the padded rolls.
Thread elastic through the casing on the back and sew in position at the ends.
Sew the edges of the elastic casing to the seam at the ends of the padded rolls.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 ozs 3ply wool.

One pair No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles.

9½ inches elastic.
Cotton wool for padding.

Tension

Approx. 32sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

October 2013

Fancy Rib Jacket

FancyRibJacket.jpg

This is a lovely 1950s Autumn jacket which is defined as "chunky" though this means "not fine" in modern parlance, as the wool weight is a pretty standard double knitting.
I love this style and always meant to make for myself but have not yet done so - hence it is untested, and the original instructions are available in only one size. The instructions are not intended for a beginner - you need to keep your eye on right and wrong sides, and preserving the button band stitches - but having said that, I think it is fairly clearly explained.

Instructions.

Fancy rib pattern worked as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

These 2 rows form pattern.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 90 stitches loosely and work 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge all along

[Editor's note: Though not clear in the photo, it seems the back of the jacket is knitted plain up to the armholes, whereas the fronts have the pattern over the pockets as well.]

Next row: Purl, increasing 3 sts, evenly across the row [93 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7 inches from lower edge.

With right side facing continue in stocking-stitch, shaping waist as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k26, k2tog, k29; sl1, k1, psso; k26; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: k2tog, k25, k2tog, k27; sl1, k1, psso; k25; k2tog. [81 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing continue shaping as follows:
Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k25; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k29; increase 1 as before; k25; increase in last stitch [85 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k26; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k31; increase 1 as before; k26; increase in last stitch [89 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k27; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k33; increase 1 as before; k27; increase in last stitch [93 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k28; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k35; increase 1 as before; k28; increase in last stitch [97 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch [99 sts]
Work straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and the following 3 alternate rows. [79 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): P9; * purl twice in next stitch, p6; repeat from * to end [89 sts]

Next row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. [147 sts]

With wrong side facing. change to fancy rib pattern, starting with 1st pattern row and work straight until back measure 23½ inches down centre ending with 1st pattern row [89 sts]
With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib over all sts, and shape shoulders by casting off 9 sts at beginning of next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 35 stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 26 sts and work 6 inches in stocking stitch ending with a knit row.
Leave these sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make second pocket in the same way.

Left Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): purl to last 23 sts; k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Change to pattern with button border in stocking stitch and remainder in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): p23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 7 inches, ending with 1st pattern row [67 sts]
With right side facing, change to stocking stitch, inserting pocket as follows:

Next row: K5; increase 1, k4, cast off 26, k20 sl1 purlways, k11.

Next row: P32, pur1 across one set of 26 pocket stitches in place of those cast off; p10 [68 sts]


With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch slipping the centre stitch in border on right side rows throughout, and shape for waist as follows:

Next row: K2tog, k27. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k26. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k25. k2tog, knit to end. [62 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing, continue shaping as follows:

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 25, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 26, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 27, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 28, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to end [71 sts]

Work straight until front measures same as back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 4 alternate rows [61 sts]

Next row: Purl.

Next row: * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11. [85 sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in fancy rib pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): P23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2tog, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Continue decreasing thus inside the 23 border sts on the following 10 alternate rows. Pattern back (1st pattern row). [50sts]

Work a few rows straight in pattern, until back measures same as front ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib keeping stocking-stitch border as before, and shape shoulder by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows - armhole edge.

Leave remaining 23 sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11, purl to end.

Change to pattern as follows (button border in stocking stitch as before):

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 25sts; k2, p23.
2nd row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11; * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2sts; p2.

Repeat these 2 rows for 1½ inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, make double buttonhole in next 2 rows as follows: k4, cast off 3, k4, sl1, k4, cast off 3, k4, work to end and back, casting on 3 sts over those cast off

Finish as for left front reversing all shapings, making another 5 double buttonholes as above at 3-inch intervals.

Your pocket row will read:
k11, sl1, k20, cast off 26, k4, increase 1, k5.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 sts loosely and work 5 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking-stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at end of 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 78 sts.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 19½ inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 40 sts remain; then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press stocking-stitch parts only under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Turn under 2½ inches round each sleeve and slip-hem loosely on wrong side.
Catch down pocket linings to main work.

Now with No 8 needles, k23 border sts. from spare needle at top of right front and work straight on these sts, slipping centre stitch as before until border fits to centre back of neck. Cast off.
Work left front 23 border sts in the same way; join borders at centre back and sew to neck edge.
Turn under half the border sts up to the slipped stitch all round and slip-hem on wrong side.

Oversew round double buttonholes.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

20 ozs Patons Moorland Double Knitting in Cinnamon.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) "Beehive" needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

This rib pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust: 35-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23½ ins; sleeve seam 17 ins.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase.

Abbreviations

Increase 1: by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, according to pattern instructions - or - Increase in next stitch: by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
p3tog: (decrease) purl 3 sts together.

wrn: wool round needle

sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A word on the wool.

Patons Moorland is a double knitting weight yarn which knitted to a fairly standard DK tension.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2013

Easter Baby Bonnet

EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg

This looks like a little Victorian cherub, though the pattern is much later. It uses a combination of smooth and fluffy 4 ply yarns in a relatively simple crochet motif.
I think the bonnet is particularly cute.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.


Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2013

Fair Isle for Spring to wear out when the sun shines

KnitForSpring.jpg

"Carefree and colourful sweater for him uses sparkling motif designs to wear out and about over the week-end when the sun shines" Carefree it may be.. but a double knitting fair-isle for Spring? That's a novel idea. However, I'm sure "a thick sweater to wear on a wet Spring weekend" is also a suitable maxim, so here we are.
[Editor's note: Here we are indeed.... I wrote this at the end of February - and now on March 11th we have sub-zero temperatures and blizzards raging in the South of England (and the Channel Islands). So this sweater choice.... "just perfick" for March.]

The main picture is a low resolution photo that does not quite show the pattern detail to the full; this is because I just had to include the wonderful backdrop to the sweater with record player and vinyl albums. These cool cats are from the early sixties but are listening to 1950s American jazz. You can see more clearly how the pattern looks in the chart at the end.

Instructions

Two sizes are given, with the larger size created by using a larger sized needle. Do check your tension with whatever yarn type you use, as the fair-isle patterning will tend to make the knitted fabric tighter than normal.

Back:

**
Using main colour Charcoal (C), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - for both sizes - cast on 126 stitches and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row: [127 stitches]
Next row: knit.
Next row: purl.

[Editor's note: The original instructions are written out line by line as reproduced below. I have created a chart which you can see at the end of the pattern.]

Change to No 8 (4mm) [7 (4½mm)] needles, join in white (W), and star pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit: 1W; * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: knit: * 1W, 5C, 3W, 1C, 3W, 5C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
4th row: purl: * 6C, 7W, 5C; rep, from * to last stitch, 1C
5th row: knit: * 2C, 4W, 3C, 1W, 3C, 4W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
6th row:: purl: * 3C, (3W, 2C) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
7th row: knit: * 4C, (2W, 1C) 3 times; 2W, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in Nasturtium Red (N).

8th row: purl: * 5N, 3W, 3N, 3W, 4N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.
Break N and rejoin C.

Repeat rows 7 through to 1 inclusive, in that order. (That is, the reverse of what you just knitted).
Break W.
Work 3 rows stocking-stitch in colour C.

Rejoin W and continue as follows:-

19th row: knit: , * 3C, 1W, 2C, repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
20th row: purl: * 2C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
21st row: knit: 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
22nd row: purl: * 4W, 11C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
23rd row: , * 1W, (3C, 4W) twice, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
24th row: purl: * 2W, 2C, 3W, 5C, 3W, 2C, 1 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
25th row: knit: , * (1C, 2W.) twice, 7C, 2W, 1C, 2W.; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in N
26th row: purl: * 2 N, 3W, 9 N, 3W, 1N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.

Break N and rejoin C repeat rows 26 - 19 inclusive in that order (that is, reversed as in previous sequence)
Break W.

Continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: purl.
2nd row: knit.
3rd row: purl.

Rejoin W
4th row: knit: 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break W
5th row:purl.
6th row: knit
7th row: purl.

Rejoin W
8th row: knit: *3C, 1W, 2C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

Repeat the last 8 rows 5 [4 or 5] times more, then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Shape armholes:

Cast off 8 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Rejoin W.

1st row: k2tog W; knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: k2tog; knit: 4C, * 3W,1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last l3 stitches, 3W, 1C, 3W, 4C, k2tog.
4th row: purl:, 5C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 7W, 5C.
5th row: k2tog, knit: 3W, * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, 3W, k2tog.
6th row: purl:, 1C, * 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 5C; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 1C.
7th row: k2tog C, knit: * 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 1C, k2tog C.
Break C and rejoin N.

8th row: purl: 2N, * 3W, 3N, 3W, 9N; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3W, 3N, 3W, 2N.
Break N and rejoin C.

9th row: k2tog, knit: 1W, * (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C, 2W; repeat from * to last 10 stitches, (1C, 2W) twice, 1C, 1W, k2tog.
10th row: purl:, 2W, * (2C, 3W) twice, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 9 stitches, 2C, 3W, 2C, 2W
11th row: k2tog W, knit: * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from
* to last 9 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, k2tog W.
12th row: purl:, 1C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 8 stitches,7W, 1C.
13th row: k2tog, knit: 2W, * 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 1C, 2W, k2tog.
14th row: purl:, 2W, * 3C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, 2W.
15th row: k2tog, knit: * 4C, 1W, 1C; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, k2tog.
Break W

16th row: purl.
17th row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
18th row: purl.
Rejoin W
Repeat the last 18 rows once more.

Next row: k2tog W, knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
Break W.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog C, knit: 1W, * 5 C, 1W; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog C.
Break W

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog , knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Rejoin W
Next row: k2tog, knit: 1C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,
1W, 1C, k2tog.
**

Keeping continuity of pattern continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 47 stitches remain. Pattern back and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back from ** to **.
Pattern back.

Shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, k16, k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first 18 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every knit row until 2 stitches remain.

K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, return to remaining stitches, slip centre 25 stitches, on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 20 stitches, k2tog., pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and C, cast on 56 stitches and work 3 inches k1, p1 rib.

Next row: * k2, knit twice in next stitch, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, knit twice in last stitch. [75 sts]
Next row: purl.

Change to No. 8 [7] needles, join in W and continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: knit: 1C, 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit twice in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, knit twice in last stitch.
4th row: purl.
Join in W

5th row: knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to end.
Break W

6th row: purl.
7th row: knit.
8th row: purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 109 stitches. Work straight until 13 complete patterns and 2 rows of 14th have been done from start.

Now shape top working as for back from to : 55 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Join In W
Next row: k2tog C, knit: * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 3 stitches,
1W, k2tog C.

Keeping continuity of snowflake pattern decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 5 stitches remain. Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join raglan seams on right sleeve, matching patterns carefully.
Join left sleeve raglan at front.
Neck Ribbing: With No 10 needles and main colour C, start at top of left sleeve and with right side facing. Knit 5 sleeve stitches, pick up and Knit 18 stitches down left side of neck, knit centre 25 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 18 stitches up right side of neck, knit 5 sleeve stitches, then knit 47 stitches from back: 118 stitches.
Work 15 rows k1, p1 rib.
Cast off very loosely in rib using a bigger needle.

Join remaining raglan seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Join neck ribbing neatly, then fold in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.

Press all seams, avoiding ribbing.

Materials


18[21]ozs Patons Double Quick Knitting in Charcoal; 5 [5] ozs in White and 1[1] oz Nasturtium.
[Editor's note: You really need very little of this red colour - enough for about 12 rows.]

Pair each No 8 [7] (4mm []), and No 10 [10] (3¼mm []).

Tension

24sts to 4 ins using No 8 needles for the smaller size, and 22½ sts to 4 ins using No 7 needles for the larger size, over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 38-40 (41-43)inches.

Length from top of shoulders, 25 (28 or 25½) ins;
sleeve seam, 18½(19½) ins.

Instructions for larger size given in brackets [bold blue]. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size indicate that any standard UK double knitting would work; in the US this yarn weight is probably considered a light worsted.
It's worth checking your tension as, even in the UK, the term double knitting covers a multitude of subtle variations.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.



Snowflake Pattern Chart

Chart of the first pattern section as given for the Back. This shows the pattern detail not fully visible in the main photo.

SnowflakeChart.jpg



Cool Cats and their American Jazz

From the original photo I can just make out the records in the foreground - the ones on the sofa behind the models defeat me...

DukeJordanTrio.jpg KrupaAndRich.jpg

The Duke Jordan Trio look like they are on the turntable (if not our model's companion is bending the vinyl in the sleeve to an ill-advised angle). The album was recorded on January 28th 1954. Tracks are: Jordu, Scotch Blues, Wait And See, Darn That Dream, Embraceable You, Just One Of Those Things, They Can't Take That Away From Me, and, Confirmation.
Next up for consideration (our model is reading the sleeve notes) is "Krupa and Rich" - both drummers - with an eponymous recording from 1956.
Examples of the music can be found on You Tube.



The record player

It has to be a Dansette doesn't it?
I have to admit I was totally ignorant about this famous brand until very recently. I can't exactly say they were before my time, as they were manufactured between 1952 and 1969, and we did have a record player in that era which was likely to have been a Dansette, but I cannot remember it well enough to say one way or the other.
As to the model in the picture - it looks a bit like the "Bermuda" shown on this fabulous site, though there are some differences. It seems likely as Julie says: "The Dansette Bermuda is by far the model we have the most of in all colours".

February 2013

Heirloom shawl

HeirloomShawlC.jpg

A lace baby shawl made in a 3 ply fingering weight, which makes it a bit more feasible to contemplate as a viable project than the traditional 2 ply, while yet remaining fine and lacey. Added to that, it is made up in sections, rather than a single piece which makes it easier to handle, with all the decreasing lace stitches.

Note added September 2018: since I first transposed this pattern I have had a number of queries so I have recently checked the pattern by knitting it myself from the instructions, and as a consequence corrected some scripting errors (random capital letters and typos), plus I have added the number of stitches after each alternate pattern row on the border pieces. I hope this will help, because despite the fact that the stitches overall are gradually decreasing, on some rows the stitch count increases.
I hope I have caught all the remaining issues, but, as ever, I always welcome anyone sharing any problems they may encounter while knitting it.

Instructions

The shawl is made in 5 pieces: first a centre square, and then 4 mitred borders that are sewn on each side of the centre.

Centre Square

With No 8 needles, cast on 162 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch), sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: k1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch); repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows until work measures 21 inches.
Cast off.

Borders (make 4)

With No 9 needles, cast on 206 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: knit.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows twice more [200 sts].

Change to pattern as follows:-

1st row: p2tog, p4, k2tog, wrn, p2, * (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2, p2tog. [186 sts]
2nd row: k5, p2, k2, * p7, (k1, p3)twice, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k3.
3rd row: p2tog, p3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p1, p2tog. [184 sts]
4th row: k4, p2, k2, * p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k2.
5th row: p2tog, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; rep, from * 5 times more, p2tog. [182 sts]
6th row: k3, p2, k2, * p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
7th row: p2tog, p1, * wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p1, p2tog. [180 sts]
8th row: k2, p2, k2, * p11, k1, p11, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
9th row:
p2tog, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 5 times more, p2tog. [178 sts]
10th row: k1, p2, * k2, p25, k2, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
11th row: k2tog, k1, * p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, k1, k2tog. [176 sts]
12th row: * p2, k2, p6, k1, p11, k1, p6, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2.
13th row: k2tog, * p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog. [174 sts]
14th row: * p1, k2, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, p7, k2, p1; repeat from * to end.
15th row: p2tog, p1, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, pl, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p1, p2tog. [172 sts]
16th row: * k2, p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, p8, k1,(p2, k1) twice, p8, k2.
17th row: p2tog, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2tog. [170 sts]
18th row: k1, * p9, k1,(p1, k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 4 times more, p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k1.
19th row: k2tog, wfd., k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k2tog. [168 sts]
20th row: p11, * k1, p11, k2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, p11.
21st row: k2tog, k8, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k9; repeat from * 4 times more, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k8, k2tog. [176 sts]
22nd row: p10, * p13, k2, p2, k2, p12; repeat from * 4 times more, p11.
23rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, * k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd., k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog. [174 sts]
24th row: p15, * k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k1, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, p4.
25th row: k2tog, k7, p1, * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k7, k2tog. [162 sts]
26th row: p8, k1, * p3, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k1, p3, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p8.
27th row: k2tog, k6, p1, * k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k6, k2tog. [160 sts]
28th row: p7, k1, * p2, k1, p8, k2, p2, k2, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * ending p7.
29th row: k2tog, k5, p1, * k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k5, k2tog. [158 sts]
30th row: p6, k1, * p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p6.
31st row: k2tog, k4, p1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, s1, k2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k4, k2tog. [156 sts]
32nd row: p5, k1, * p11, k2, p2, k2, p11, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p5.
33rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd., sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog. [164 sts]
34th row: p17, * k2, p2, k2, p25; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p2, k2, p17.
35th row: k2tog, k3, * wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, k2tog. [162 sts]
36th row: p4, * p5, k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6 k1, p6; repeat from * 4 times more, p3.

Cast off 162 stitches.

Make 3 more pieces the same.

To Make Up

Pin parts out and press very lightly under a damp cloth (so not to flatten the pattern stitches too much).
Join borders very neatly to centre square, then join corners of border.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3 ply Patons Baby Wool.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

In stocking stitch: 26 stitches. and 34 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles.
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

32 inches square.

Abbreviations

wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.


sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).


k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

The original pattern calls for Patons "Beehive" which is no longer available but Patons do a range of 3 ply baby wools.

Patons Dreamtime Fairytale is 100% wool available in 6 pastel shades; wash at 30°; 50g ball, 230m/252 yards.

They also make Fairytale 3 ply (not "Dreamtime"), which is a mix of acrylic and nylon in white only. Maybe not so perfect for an heirloom shawl.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2013

Fair-Isle Hooded Scarf

HoodedScarf3.jpg

A lovely warm idea that has never lost its popularity: a scarf/hood combination. This has an interesting construction with the scarf being double sided, and the hood being more a like a pocket with the intention that it should form soft folds when worn. [I'm more used to a pixie hood type design with a centre back seam].

Hood Scarf:

Using the main colour wool (MC) cast on 108 sts.

1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 9 times more.

** Join in the first contrast (B) and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).



Commencing with the 3rd, row proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off contrast B.

1st row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
3rd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice.

Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures 40 inches
from the beginning, ending on the wrong side of the work.
Repeat from ** to ** 3 times.

Work 18 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.
Press on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Fold the scarf in half lengthways. Sew up the seam for 16 inches, leave 16 inches open to form the hood, sew up the remainder of the seam.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a tube which you press flat to make a double thickness scarf, and the hood is formed by leaving the tube open, so the hood is single thickness.]

Hood Border:

Work a border along one 16 inch side of the hood opening as follows:
With the wrong side of the work facing, using the Main Colour wool and commencing 2 inches from the seam, pick up and knit 108 sts. evenly along the next 12 inches (ending 2 inches from the other seam).
[Editor's note: I know - it seems like you are knitting on the wrong side - but the border is folded back - so it's all OK.]

Next row (right side): Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Join in the second contrast B and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart, proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).

Commencing with the 3rd row, proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off first contrast (B)
Next row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Proceed as follows:
Next row: Slip 1, k1, * pl, k.l, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the this row once.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up the Scarf.

Sew the ends of the scarf together on the wrong side.
Place the corners of the border to the seam and sew the edges of the border to the 2-inch openings.
Turn back the border and catch-stitch in the centre to hold the border in position.
Using a No 12 Crochet Hook and main shade with the right side of the work facing, work 1 row of double crochet evenly along the other 16 inch side of the hood opening. Using the coloured wools make a mixed fringe at the ends of the scarf.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3ply in main shade plus "medium-sized" balls in each of four contrast colours eg blue, yellow, green and pink.

One pair No 9 (3¾ mm) knitting needles.
One No. 12 (2½ mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Approx. 30sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Width round face edge is 16 inches.
Length of scarf (excluding fringe) is 48 inches.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

November 2012

Reindeer jacket (for a small boy...or girl)

Florence.jpg

This looks so cute and would make a lovely Christmas cardigan for a toddler. The fair-isle design is not too challenging and hopefully you have plenty of time to knit for this year's festivities.
One size only I'm afraid, but you could increase it slightly by increasing the yarn weight and needle size.

This was beautifully knitted by Sara for her daughter, who also models it. The original (boy) model seen after the pattern instructions.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, k1 st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Chart C

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Chart D

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

Reindeer jacket (for a BIG boy...or girl)

P&BMoorlandJacket.jpg

Some 10 years after the entry for the child's version, I discovered an adult cardigan. Astonishingly, it is made using exactly the same instructions - practically word for word - just using a very thick wool.
They published it first as part of the Stitchcraft Moorland (DK) booklet, calling it a North American Indian Coat (pictured above), using 3 strands of the yarn held together, and later as a separate pattern leaflet "by special request" using the new Big Ben yarn, calling it a Western Frontier Jacket (pictured at the end). With such economy on a rewrite, it's still one (much bigger) size only.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

No 2 (7mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 stitches and work ribbed welt as follows:
1st row: k1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.

Continue using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.

The ribbed welt is now complete.

The remainder of Back and Fronts is worked in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side), breaking off and joining in colours as required.

[Editor's note: You may need to use a circular needle to contain this many stitches in bulky yarn, but you will still work back and forth as if on 2 needles.]

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart A, working 16 stitch repeat 7 times, plus the odd 15 stitches as marked, Read the chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

[Editor's note: After working Chart A the adult instructions call for a slightly longer length than the child's version.]

Then, starting with a knit row, work 3 rows in Light.
Using Medium colour, continue until work measures 11 inches from the beginning, finishing at the end of a purl row.
Work 2 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed to work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (21st row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light, cast off 11 stitches in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit 25 stitches in Light, knit 1 stitch in Dark, knit 26 sts in Light, cast off 11 stitches in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 stitches in Light.
Turn and proceed on the last group of 26 stitches only for Left Front.

[Editor's note: After dividing for back and fronts, the adult instructions again need a slightly longer length in the armhole,.

Left Front:

Shape armhole and commence to shape front slope:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl 2 in Dark, purl 24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of stitches on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light.
Next row: purl 26 in Light..
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Using Medium, work 3 rows.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [22stitches]

This completes the armhole shaping.
Continue to shape the front slope as follows:
Using Medium, work 3 rows.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Using Medium, work 1 row.
Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C, working the 4 stitch repeat 5 times, reading from left to right on purl rows and from right to left on knit rows.

Chart C

Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Using Light, work 2 rows.
Using Medium, work 1 row.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [18 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.

Front slope shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these stitches until the armhole measures 8½ ins, (that is 8½ ins from the 11 cast-off stitches), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 stitches back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl 24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: purl 53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the odd stitch as marked, then the 4 stitch repeat 12 times.

Chart D

Using Light work 3 rows.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 8½ ins, (that is 8½ ins from the 11 cast-off stitches), finishing at the end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 stitches on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 stitches back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed as for the Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl 24 in Light, p2 in Dark.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light.
Next row: Purl 26 in Light.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

...and then as stated above, complete as for Left front reversing shapings.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 stitches and work 8 rows in stocking stitch.

Continue in stocking stitch as follows:
Using Light, work 3 rows.
Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the odd stitch as marked, then the 4 stitch repeat 12 times across the row.
Then work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E, working the 16 stitch repeat 3 times, and the odd stitch as marked.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the 4 stitch repeat 12 times, and the odd stitch as marked.
Work 3 rows in Light, and 1 row in Medium.

Using Medium, work 1st and 2nd rows of rib as on the body.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.

Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Slip the 13 stitches from the Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on the welts, increasing 1 stitch at both ends of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 27 stitches on the needle.

Continue on these stitches until the rib measures 8 inches from the beginning.
Cast off in rib.

Sides of Collar

With right side of back collar facing, using Medium colour, knit up 24 stitches along one of the the increase edges, and proceed in garter stitch (every row knit), decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following alternate row until 2 stitches remain.

[Editor's note: The decrease edge is the one which will be sewn to the front slope to make the shawl collar. When the collar is folded over the ribbed section will be visible at the back of the jacket, and the garter stitch sides will be visible at the front of the jacket.]

Cast off.

Work the other side of the collar to match.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch Collar in position.

With right side facing, work 1 row of double crochet along each front edge where the zip is then stitched into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting version:
22 oz Medium (grey-main shade),
14oz Light (white),
6 oz. Dark.

Bulky yarn version:
12 hanks Medium,
8 hanks Dark,
4 hanks Light.
[Hank assumed to be 2oz]

Actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair of No 2 (7mm) needles, and/or a circular needle.
One No 7 (4½mm) crochet hook.

18-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

12sts x 16 rows to 4 ins on 7mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 42 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 25½ inches
Sleeve seam: 19 inches
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
k2tog: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland" double knitting using 3 strands held together - or -
"Big Ben" which was a very thick yarn used as a single strand.

Quantities are hard to predict and to be safe, I often allow one 50g ball for every 1oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

P&B1136s.jpg

October 2012

Cloche Cap

ClocheCap.jpg

Charming retro hat with decorative band and buckle.

I learned from the Debbie Bliss Magazine Autumn/Winter 2012 that one of my favourite designers, Louisa Harding, has been facing up, with her husband, to his challenge of being treated for lymphoma. In appreciation for the help of Macmillan nurses, Louisa is taking part in Macmillan's Nepal Hiking Challenge and seems well on her way to raising her goal of £5000.
To help achieve the target She has put together a series of seven knitting patterns called 'Himalayan Hiking Hats'. She will have her photo taken wearing each one of the hats on the first 6 days of the trek. The seventh hat pattern in the series will be knitted 'en route' and photographed on the 7th (last) trekking day.
Download the hat patterns from her site and show your support by sending a donation.

Instructions.

The main hat is knitted in reverse stocking stitch, with the band in garter stitch. The design is intended for a textured yarn.

Crown

Using the 5 No 10 needles, cast on 8 stitches, placing 2 stitches on each of 4 needles.

1st (and every alternate) round: purl
2nd round: knit twice into every stitch. [16 sts]
4th round: * k1 knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [24 sts]
Mark end of round with a contrast thread, or stitch marker.

6th round: * k2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [32 sts]
8th round: * k3, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [40 sts]

Continue increasing 8 stitches thus on every alternate round until there are 36 stitches on each needle. [144 stitches]
Work 7 rounds straight.

Next round: * k16, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [136 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k15, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [128 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k14, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [120 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k13, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [112 sts]
Work 5 rounds straight.

Cast off.

Band

Cast on 16 stitches, and work a strip in garter-stitch (every row knit) 22 inches long - or length required to fit round head with 3 inches to spare. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off. This forms a point.
Using the wool double, crochet all round the outer edge of the buckle to cover.
[Editor's note: I think this might be trickier than it sounds - either due to the bouclé nature of the yarn or the thickness of the hook you'd need to use. I might be tempted to try a blanket or button-hole stitch around the buckle using the yarn single and a large-eyed darning needle.]

Stitch the cast-on edge of the band to the buckle, then slot the shaped end through the buckle pulling it through until the band fits round the head snugly.
[Editor's note: Again a slight inconsistency in the instructions and the photo here. I don't think it matters if you have a buckle with or without a tongue. If the latter, arrange the size you need and just push the tongue through the knitting. You should catch stitch the band in place, ensuring that it looks as though the end is free, that is, as if you had not stitched it.]

To Make Up

Pin band in position evenly all round crown noting that the purl side of the crown is the right side.
Sew neatly in position stretching band slightly.
Press seam and crown very lightly under a damp cloth using a rolled towel inside hat to keep the shape.

Materials

3 ozs Patons Rimple double knitting in colour Harlequin 1572.

A set of five of No 10 (3¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

A 2½ inch buckle.

Crochet hook.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

An average hat size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

Patons Rimple was a softly textured bouclé yarn, (97% wool, 3% nylon), which knitted to a double knitting tension.

This hat is knitted on finer needles than usual so the knitted fabric will be denser and stiffer, giving the hat more body.

There are a few double knitting bouclé yarns available though many tend to be chunky weight. Debbie Bliss seems to have discontinued the Cashmerino Astrakhan but you can still obtain it at some outlets on the internet (and often discounted). Rowan have recently brought out a British Sheep Breeds "fine" bouclé but this still seems to knit up to a chunkier tension. You can try and obtain the right tension with finer needles - and I think this would produce an excellent knitted fabric for the hat - but be warned that knitting bouclé tightly on small needles is very hard work.

I cannot supply the yardage of Rimple, and can only guess that "Harlequin" was a multi-coloured tweed.

January 2012

Isobel's Little Blanket

IsobelsBlanket.jpg

This is small blanket or cot cover made from 12 crochet squares in chunky yarn (so quick to make). It's based the usual granny-square principle, but a very pretty example of it incorporating the central flower motif.

Instructions

There are a couple of new stitches used in this pattern, as well as basic chain, dc, and treble. There is a "cluster" used in making the central flower, and crab stitch for the edging.

Make cluster:

Working all into the same stitch, **yoh, draw through loop **; repeat from ** to ** 4 times (9 loops on hook); yoh, draw loop through all loops on hook; yoh, draw loop through stitch on hook.
[Editor's note: This last stitch is just "1 chain".]

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right. It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

Motif (make 12)

Starting at the centre of the square: using 7mm hook and first contrast, (plum), make 6ch and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
2nd round: **1 cluster in first dc, 3ch; 1 cluster in next dc, 1ch **; repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first st.
Change to second contrast (cream).
3rd round: Insert hook in first 3-chain space and make 2 chain for first treble; **2tr in same space, 3ch; 3tr in same space, 1ch; 3tr in next 1-chain space, 1ch; 1tr in next 3-chain space, ** repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, omitting the very last tr in the repeated sequence, and join with a slip stitch to top of first chains.
Change to third contrast (lime).
4th round: 1 dc **1dc over each of next 3tr, 3dc into next 3-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space;**. Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.

Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

IsobelsBlanket_detail.jpg

To Make Up

Make 12 squares altogether.

With 7mm hook and 3rd contrast (lime), join 2 squares together; hold right sides together and slip stitch through the back loop of each dc, leaving the front loops exposed as a decorative ridge on the right side (see photos).
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant here, try experimenting. There is a loop on each side of a crochet stitch; usually when placing a stitch on top on the next row, you push your hook through both loops, but for some decorative sts, you are asked to use either only the back or only the front loops in order to create a ridge, Whatever you end up doing, just make sure you are consistent, so that you get a nice consistent pattern emerging.]

Join 3 squares in a row, then join the 4 rows together.

Finally, using first contrast (plum) and right side facing, work a row of dc all around the blanket, and work 2 or 3sts into the 4 corner sts, to make it curve properly. Then, keeping the right side facing you, change to a 6mm hook and go back the way you came, working one row of crab stitch right to left.

Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of chunky in each of first and second contrast and 1 ball in third contrast.


One No 2 (7mm) and one No 4 (6mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each square is intended to measure 4¾ inches.

Size matters

To fit cot, pram, or Moses basket.

Abbreviations

yoh: yarn over hook.
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original yarn produces a tension of 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch. You can substitute an Aran weight yarn worked double throughout, though this is less easy to work with for crochet patterns.

I used Patons Pompero a chunky yarn, knitting to a tension of 16sts x 22 rows to 4 ins, which is thinner, though I used a 7mm hook with it.

Result of my yarn choice is a smaller blanket, requiring only one ball in each colour.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch,
(a picture painting a thousand words and so on).

December 2011

Sideways Stash Socks

HoneycombBedsocks.jpg

Father George: so fond of his bedsocks that they get worn out. [Since he is not bedridden I can only surmise he does not restrict their use to the bedroom!] Hence - by request - here are some more.

The patterned section of the sock is knitted sideways using a variation of a honeycomb stitch; it's an opportunity to use up really small amounts of double knitting yarn. I rotated 4 contrast colours but you could use a different colour for every set of rows; the key is to keep some consistency in the main colour.

Instructions.

The first section of these socks is knitted sideways making a "T" shape where the upright of the "T" is the upper foot, and the cross bar curls around the leg to form the cuff, meeting at the back seam.
The second section knits the heel and then sole of the sock. These two sections are worked on 2 needles.
Then for the toe, you pick up the stitches from the first 2 sections, and knit in the round on 4 needles, and finally you pick up stitches at the top of the sock and knit the welt, also in the round.

First section (knit 2)

Starting at the back leg seam, with main shade (M) cast on 23 sts on 2 needles and knit one row. Commence pattern.

Join in contrasts (C1, C2 etc):
1st row: Using C1, p3 * sl1, p3; repeat from * to end of row
2nd row: Using C1, k3 * sl1, k3; repeat from * to end of row
3rd row: As first row.
4th row: As second row.
5th row: Using main shade (M) purl across all sts.
6th row: Using C2, k1, sl1, * k3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
7th row: Using C2, p1, sl1, * p3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
8th row: As 6th row.
9th row: As 7th row.
10th row: Using main shade (M) knit across all sts.

Repeat rows 1-10 using different contrasts, once more.

Next row(wrong side facing): Cast on 40 sts, and then work across them and all sts, as for 1st row of pattern. [63sts]
[Editor's note: If you want a shorter or longer foot length cast on more or fewer stitches here. Reduce or add sts in multiples of 4, which is about ¾ of an inch]

Continue to work the pattern on these 63 sts, working rows 1-10 three times, and then rows 1-4.

Next row(wrong side facing): Using main shade, cast off 40 sts, and purl across remainder. [23sts]

Continue to work the pattern on these 23 sts, working rows 6-10, then rows 1-10 once, times, and then rows 1-4.
Cast off purlwise using main shade (centre back seam).

Second section (heel and sole).

The remainder of the socks are worked entirely in the main shade.

For the heel: with right side of the first section facing, oriented like an upside down "T" pick up 11 sts from each side of the instep:

Pick up and knit 11 sts from the left side first, ending at the cast on edge (which will be the centre back, and then turn the work over and bend round the second side, and pick up 11sts from the right side. The sock cuff now forms a circle with the back seams together, but not yet sewn.

Turn and purl 1 row across these 22 sts.

Next row(right side facing): * Sl1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more.

Turn the heel:

Next row: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.

Continue to work short rows and decrease in this way until all sts have been incorporated. [14sts].

Next row(right side facing): Sl1, k13, pick up and knit 13 sts down side of heel. Turn.
Next row: P27, pick up and purl 13 sts down other side of heel. Turn.

Now work the instep decreases and sole:

Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1. Turn.
Next row: Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 22 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you want to make the sock for a narrower foot circumference then decrease a few more sts here. About 6 sts for an inch.]

Continue to work a further 50 rows to make the sole - upper and lower foot sections should be about the same length.
[Editor's note: if you altered the sock length by casting on more of fewer than 40 sts, then adjust the number of rows you knit here. For every 4 sts different in the first section, allow 5 rows difference in the sole.]

Toe

Now we move to working in the round.

Knit 11 sts on first double-pointed needle, 11sts on second, then with right side facing, using third needle, pick up and knit 24 sts across the toe edge of the first section.
Complete the round, knitting 11 sts from first needle then 11 sts from second. Knit one more round.

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1. Complete the round by knitting the 11 sts on each of the first and second needles. [44 sts]

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1; on first needle, k1, sl1, k1 psso; knit to end; on second needle, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16sts remain.
Slip the sts from the second needle on to the first and graft the sts together with those on the third needle.

Making up

Sew seams on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Using double pointed needles and main shade, pick up 60-66 sts round top of sock and knit a k3/p3 rib for about 8 rows (or as long as you want), to form the welt. Cast off loosely.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of double knitting yarn, and a variety of left over DK colours.

One pair and one set of four No 8 (4mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

22 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (olive).
C are contrasts.

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used Phildar Oxygene in olive for the main colour, and a 4 other colours for the contrast - you could have every colour change (15 colours) different if you wanted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Fifties Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The third (and final) fair-isle design for November is a 1950s or early 60s cardigan in a double knitting weight yarn. No clues as to the original colour scheme here, and although for today it would seem appropriate to go with the grey palette, I am sure the original would have been more colourful.

Instructions

The Back and Fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Back and Fronts:

Using No. 10 (3¼mm) needles and light colour, cast on 146 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ ins.
Next row (wrong side): Rib 9; (increase in next stitch, rib 15) 8 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [155 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl
3rd row: K39, m1, k1, m1, k75, m1, k1, m1, k39.
4th row: Purl
5th and 6th rows: As 1st and 2nd
7th row: K40, m1, k1, m1, k77, m1, k1, m1, k40.
8th row: Purl
9th and 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd
11th row: K41, m1, k1, m1, k79, m1, k1, m1, k41.
12th row: Purl
13th and 14th rows: As 1st and 2nd

Continue increasing in this manner on next and every following 4th row until there are 183 sts.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 11½ ins, from beginning, finishing at end of a knit row.

Next row: P7, (increase in next stitch p12) 13 times, increase in next stitch, purlto end. [197 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 from Chart (odd rows knit, even rows purl), working bracketed repeat 7 times across row and odd stitch at end of
knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on Chart throughout.

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (17th row of chart): Pattern 44 cast, off 10, pattern 88 (there now being 89 sts. on needle after cast-off); cast off 10, pattern to end.
[Editor's note: So you have 3 groups of sts on the needle - 44 then 89 then 44]

Proceed on first group of 44 sts. for first front as follows:

Keeping pattern correct by working rows 18 to 30 inclusive of Chart, shape armhole by decreasing 1 st. at armhole edge on next and every alternate row until 39 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows, thus completing pattern from Chart.

Using darker colour for remainder of front, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5 ins, from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at front edge.

Shape neck: by casting off 4 sts. at beg. of next row.
Decrease 1 st. at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 30 sts. remain.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 7 ins, from beg. of armhole shaping, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next and every alt, row until all sts. are cast off.

Rejoin wool to next group of 89 sts. and proceed for Back as follows:

Keeping pattern correct from Chart, shape armholes by decreasing 1 st at both ends of next and every alternate row until 81sts remain. Continue on these sts. until work matches first front up to shoulder shaping.
Shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next 6 rows.
Cast off all remaining sts.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of 44 sts. and complete to match first front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No. 10 needles and Light, cast on 50 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 inches.
Next row: Rib 5; (increase in the next stitch, rib 9) 4 times; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [55 sts]

Change to No. 7 needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 st. at both ends of 5th and every following 9th row until there are 73 sts.
Continue on these sts until work measures 15½ ins, from beginning finishing at the end of a knit row.

Next row: P3; (increase in the next stitch, p5) 11times; increase in the next stitch; purl to end. [85 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 inclusive from the chart, noting that bracketed repeat is worked 3 times across row, and odd st. at end of knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on chart throughout.

Keeping pattern correct from chart until 30th row of chart has been completed, and working remainder of sleeve in dark colour, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 43 sts remain, and then on every alternate row until 33 sts remain, and then on every following 3rd row until 29 sts remain.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Right Front Band:

Using No. 10 needles and light colour, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: K2; (p1, k1) 4 times; k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times; k1.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row (make buttonhole): Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
6th row: Rib 4, cast on 3, rib to end.

Continue in rib working a buttonhole as on 5th and 6th rows on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole until 5 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Break off light colour and join in dark.
Still working buttonholes on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole as before, continue in Dark until 7 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Work 16 more rows.
Slip stitches on to a stitch holder.

Left Front Band:

Omitting buttonholes, work to match Right Front Band.

Neckband:

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulders of Back and Fronts.
Slip stitches from top of Right Front Band on to No 10 needle, with right side of work facing, using dark colour, k2, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1 across these sts., using same needle, knit up 71 sts round neck, slip sts. from top of Left Front Band on to No 10 needle, (p1, k1) 5 times across these sts, k1. [93 sts]

Next row: * k1, p1, rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: k2, * p1, k1, repeat, from * to last stitch k1.

Work 3 more rows in rib.
Make buttonhole on next 2 rows.
Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting k1/p1 rib, with wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges.
Omitting k1/p1 rib, press each piece very lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

"In order to preserve the lovely crepe appearance of Totem fabrics, these must be pressed very lightly as over-pressing will spoil the appearance of the finished fabric."

Using a flat seam for k1/p1 rib, and a back-stitch seam for remainder, join sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position. Flat stitch front bands into position.
Attach buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

12 oz in light colour and 6 oz in dark colour in double knitting yarn.

[Editor's note: 1oz = 28g.
See "a word on the wool".]

Two No 10 (3¼mm) and two No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

21sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 34-36 inch bust. Length from shoulder to lower edge, 21¼ ins. Sleeve seam, 18 ins.

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
m1p: make one st by picking up loop between sts and purl into back of it.
kb: knit into back of stitch
pb: purl into back of stitch
tog: together
tbl: through back loops
inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch
dec:decrease by working 2 sts. together

"Stranding" in Fair Isle

In working designs using two or more colours, you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
Do not strand colours over more than 5 sts. When a loose thread must pass over more than 5 sts. weave it over and under the colour in use at centre point of the sts. it passes over.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem, or Moorland which are
double knitting, yarns. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

12oz is about 7 x 50g balls and 6oz is about 4 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in a small size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Ski Slope Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The second nordic-style sweater for November in a slightly lighter weight yarn. Like the previous design it has a straight inset sleeve, as well as the bright ("modern") colour combination of the 1980s. The pattern includes instructions for plain leg warmers.

Instructions

This pattern uses 3 familiar stitch types:

Double Rib: repeated sequence of k2, p2 rib.
Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row.
Fair-isle stocking stitch, following the chart.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 86 / 90 / 94 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and stocking stitch, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [101/ 105/ 109 sts]. Continue joining in contrast (R) for dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as per the lower section of chart.
When work measures approximately 16¾ inches, change to No 6 (5mm) needles and beg the fair-isle motifs. When work measures 18 inches, shape the armholes by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When the fair-isle motif is complete, change back to No 7 needles and continue in dotted fair-isle until work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 8 at the beginning of the next 2 rows (all sizes).

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes), knit 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn leaving the remaining sts unworked but still on the needle to pick up in a moment, .
Purl back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts.

Return to the sts still on the needle for the neck and left side. Place the centre 43 sts on a stitch holder for the back neck, and then rejoin yarn to the remaining sts and knit 1 row.

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes) purlwise, purl 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn, knit back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts purlwise.

Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 90 / 94 / 98 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as for the back, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [105/ 109 / 113 sts].
Change to No 6 (5mm) needles when you work the fair-isle motifs just as you did on the back section.

When work measures 18 inches (same as back to armhole), shape the armholes by casting off 8 / 9 / 10 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When work measures 25½ / 26 / 26½ inches, shape neck:
leave centre 23 sts on spare needle and continue each side separately, casting off at neck edge on every alternate row as follows: 3 sts (once), 2 sts (twice) and 1 st (3 times) [23 / 24 / 25 sts].

When work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches, work shoulder shaping as you did for the back, casting off at armhole edge on every alternate row as follows: 8 sts (twice), 7 /