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January 2017

Snow Set: sweater

SnowSetSweater.jpg

Continental after-ski casuals - fifties style .

... even though my sporty friends tell me that even more recent items that I think of as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

"Hey look - over there - someone's wearing socks to match my sweater!"
[...and in case you were wondering - I think it's an orange she's holding.]

Instructions.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Black by B, and Red by R.
The colour panels are worked with separate balls of wool in the intarsia fashion. Twist the wools on the wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Front

With No 8 needles and white yarn W, cast on 99 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end, and ending with a wrong side row.

With right side facing, change to pattern introducing the fair-isle pattern (worked from the chart) in stocking-stitch and the red panel in red yarn (R) worked in rib up the centre.

Continue setting out the panels as follows:—
1st row: k15 W, p1 W; join in 1st ball of B, and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; join in R and k5; join in 2nd ball W and B and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; p1 W, k15 W.
2nd row: p15 W, k1 W; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; change to R, (p1, k1) twice, p1 R; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; k1 W, p15 W.
3rd row: k15 W, p1 W; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart; in R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart, p1 W, k15 W.

Keeping centre rib and pattern correct work 9 rows straight.

Next row: k12 W; k2tog W; pattern 31; k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it; p1 R, k1 R, p1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back of loops, k12 W.
Next row: p14 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2; pattern 31; k1 W, p14 W.
Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Next row: k11 W; k2tog W, k1 W, p1 W; pattern 31, k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it; using R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back loops, k11 W.
Next row: p13 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1 R; pattern 31; k1 W, p13 W.

Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Continue in pattern increasing the rib stitches in this way and decreasing in the White panel at each end, on the next and every following 16th row until work measures 13½ inches from the start, and ending with right side facing.

Shape sleeves as follows:
Continue shaping on every 16th row as before and at the same time shape for sleeves by casting on in W: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [265 sts]

This completes the sleeve shaping

Continue in pattern shaping on every 16th row as before until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: Work 124, rib the next 17 stitches, placing them on to a stitch-holder and leave for the time being; work 124 stitches to end.

Continue on the last 124 stitches only, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows.

Next row: Cast off 31, work to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, work to end.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work back, then cast off the remaining 9 stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining 124 stitches, work to end. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows, then finish to correspond with right shoulder.

Back

With No 8 needles and W yarn, cast on 95 stitches and
work 3 inches k1/p1 rib as for front.

Change to stocking-stitch, working in White throughout, and work straight until side edge measures same as front ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape for sleeves by casting on: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [261 sts]

Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing. Shape sleeves and shoulders by casting off 31 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [29 sts]
Leave remaining 29 stitches on a stitch-holder.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing, the set of No 10 needles and Black yarn B, starting at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 16
stitches up right side of neck, then knit 29 stitches across back of
neck. [78 sts]

Work in rounds of k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cuffs

With right side facing, using two No 10 needles and Black yarn B, pick up and knit 40 stitches along sleeve edge. Work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 13 oz in white (W), 3 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 8 (4mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

2 stitch holders.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 22 inches.
Sleeve seam: 16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

And here we see the whole splendid outfit.
[... and she's still holding on to that orange...]

SnowSetOutfit.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: slipper boots

SnowSetSlipperBoots1.jpg

Sports wear.... skiing!
... even though my sporty friends tell me that even the items I think of from more recent years as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

Anyway - to kick off in fifties style - "ankle-warm slipper boots".

Instructions

Make two socks alike.

Main body:

Using the pair of No 10 needles and red (R) yarn, cast on 51 stitches, and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, (k3, increase in next stitch) 6 times, k1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, k2. [57 sts]
Break red yarn (R).

Join in white (W) and purl 1 row.

Now introduce black yarn B and work the fair-isle pattern over the centre 31 stitches, using stocking stitch and reading from the chart, and keeping 13 stitches on either side in rib as before.
[x indicates black stitches].

Work rows 1 through 12 from the chart, 3 times in all, then 1st and 2nd rows again.

Next row: Rib 13 and slip these stitches on to a length of wool or a stitch holder for the time being, pattern across the next 31 stitches, slip the remaining 13 stitches on a length of wool as before.
Continue on the centre 31 stitches only, and continuing the pattern from the chart until the 6th row of the 7th pattern has been done from start.
Break black yarn B.

Next row: (k2, k2tog.) 7 times, k1, k2tog. [23 sts]
Next row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Adjust length of foot here:

For size 5 foot work 2 rows straight in stocking stitch;
for size 6 foot work 4 rows straight;
for size 7 foot work 6 rows straight.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping toe by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every knit row until 15 sts remain, then at each end of every row until 9 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To make heel:

Slip the 26 stitches left on spare wool or stitch holders on to one needle and with right side facing, join in W
[Editor's Note: you are making the heel here so you need to arrange the 2 sets of stitches so that the free ends of the knitting meet in the centre, and you start knitting at the edge of the centre panel you have just been knitting.]
and work as follows:

1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p2tog., (k1, p1) 5 times, k2.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Continue in rib for 2¼ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib, leaving last stitch on needle.

To shape instep, using needle with the 1 stitch remaining, pick up and knit 10 stitches along the side of the heel.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Next row: Knit to the last 3 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, pick up and knit 11 stitches along the other side of the heel and work to correspond.

Making up

Press the pattern parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join instep pieces to foot.
Using red yarn (|R) and the set of 4 No 10 needles, pick up and knit 134 stitches (for size 5), 138 stitches (for size 6), 142 stitches (for size 7), all round lower edge of slipper (where it will be sewn to the soles).
Work 4 rounds k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew zip fasteners in position down centre back, then join the rest of back the seam.

Stitch slipper firmly to sole.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 2 oz in white (W), 1 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Two 4 inch zip fasteners.

A pair of slipper soles.

Tension

24 st and 32 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

To fit UK women's size 5,6,7.
European: 37, 38, 39

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A slightly clearer picture of the boots, showing the snazzy back zip closing.

SnowSetSlipperBoots2.jpg

December 2016

Cosy Pram Cover - crochet

CrochetCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to crochet a simple cover if you can get over the lurid sixties colour schemes. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations which would be less traumatic for a baby].

Instructions

The crochet blanket is made up of a number of large motifs sewn together and then joined with smaller motifs which are integrated as you work.

Large Motif (make 24)

Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and DK in Light colour (L) make 6ch loosely and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 3 chain, work 23tr into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch. [24 sts].
Break L and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M work 5ch, 1tr in same stitch as slip stitch; 1ch, * miss 2 stitches, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * 6 times more; miss 2ch, and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 5ch.
Break M and join in Dark colour (D).
3rd round: In D work a slip stitch into first 2ch space, 3ch, (1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in same 2ch space; * 1dc in next 1ch space, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 2ch space; repeat from * 6 times more; 1dc into last 1ch space, and join with a slip stitch into top of 3ch, slip stitch into next tr.
Break D and rejoin in L.
4th round: In L work a slip stitch in first 2ch space, 3ch, (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same 2ch space; 1dc into next dc, * (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next 2ch space; 1dc in next dc; repeat from * 6 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch.
Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

To Make Up

Using L, join motifs by stitching centre stitches of each motif together, and making 6 rows of 4 motifs.
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant by centre stitches, I think they must mean the centre stitches of the last round. Clearly the motifs are attached at the sides as in the picture]

Work 15 small motifs to fill the spaces formed by the larger motifs and join together as follows:

Small Motif (make 15 - joining as you work)

The smaller motifs are worked in 4 ply.
Using No 9 (3½mm) hook and 4ply in Dark (D) make 8 chain loosely and join with a slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring.

1st round: 6 chain, work (1tr, 3ch) 7 times into the ring and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 6 ch.
Break D and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M slip stitch in first space; 3ch, 2tr, in same space; (slip stitch inserting hook from right side of large motif into centre treble of 3tr on large motif; 3tr in next chain space of small motif) 7 times; insert hook into centre treble of last petal, and at the same time insert hook into top of 3ch, joining with a slip stitch.
[Editor's note: This sounds more complex than it is - you need to be working it to understand. All you are doing is joining the small motif in between the larger ones as you work round 2]
Fasten off.

This completes the motif - work the other 14 in the same way.

Finishing

With right side facing, Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and M in DK, work 1 round of dc around scalloped edge of cover.
Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Cut the lining material to fit around the scalloped edges. Turn in the edges and catch down all around the scallops inside the dc border.

Materials

Double Knitting: 2 x 50g balls of Light, and 1 each of Medium and Dark.

4ply: 1 x 25g in each of Medium and Dark.

One No 7 (4½mm) and one No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

½ yard of washable lining material to match the dark colour.

Tension

Each motif is intended to measure 4½ inches.

Size matters

18 x 27 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.

Stylecraft have a good range of acrylics with equivalent colours available in DK and 4ply.


CrochetIsEasy.jpg

Cosy Pram Cover - knitted

KnittedCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to knit a simple cover if you can get over the dramatic sixties colour scheme. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations].

Instructions

The pattern uses DK weight yarn with 2 strands held together.

Motif (make 12)

Using main shade (M) cast on 96 stitches and work 11 rows in garter stitch (every row knit but slip the first stitch of every row).

Next row: Sl1, k7, slip these 8 stitches on to a thread; k4, increase in the next stitch, (k9, increase in next stitch) 7 times; k5; slip the next 8 stitches on to a thread (88 sts).

Joining in contrast (C) as required and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: Sl1, k2C, * k4M, k2C, repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
2nd row: Sl1, k2C; yft, * p4M, k2C, yft; repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
3rd row: In M sl1, knit to end.
4th row: In M sl1, purl to last stitch, k1.
5th row: Sl1, k3M, * k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end.
6th row: Sl1, p3M, * k2C, yft, p4M; repeat from * to last 6 stitches;
k2C, yft, p3M, kl M.
7th and 8th rows: As 3rd and 4th rows.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until main part measures approximately 26½ inches ending with a 2nd pattern row.
Break off contrast C.
Next row: K4, k2tog, (k9, k2tog) 7 times; k5. (80 sts)
Break off M. and slip stitches on to a length of yarn.

Borders and finishing

With wrong side facing, rejoin M to the 8 border stitches on left side and work in garter stitch until Border measures 26 inches from cast-on edge, ending with wrong side facing.
Break M and slip stitches on to a thread.
Sew in position, using a flat seam, slightly stretching it to fit edge of
main part.
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining border stitches and complete to correspond with first Border, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Sl1, k7, then on to same needle knit across stitches of main
part and first Border (96 sts).
Work 10 rows in garter stitch across all stitches.
Cast off evenly.

Sew remaining Border in position.
Pin out to measurements.
Press lightly on wrong side.

Materials

6 x 50g balls double knitting in main shade (M) and 2 in contrast (C).

Two No 4 (6mm) needles

Tension

18sts x 20 rows to 4 inches over pattern. [Yarn is used double throughout].

Size matters

22 x 27½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.
You could also consider knitting a single strand in a heavier weight yarn - Aran, worsted, even chunky. However you would need to knit a tension square in the pattern stitches.

September 2016

Plaid Pullover

PlaidSlipover.jpg

Pullover in a range of sizes, with an interesting plaid effect made by slipping stitches.
Joy first knitted it 35 years ago for her husband and he liked it so much he was always asking her to redo it. It took a while but she finally managed it - see her satisfied hubby at the end....

Instructions:

The instructions are given in 9 sizes with smallest size given first and the larger sizes in brackets.

Back


Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting yarn cast on 93 [99; 105; 111; 115; 121; 127; 133; 137] stitches.

1st row (right side): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end..
Repeat these rows 9 times more.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and commence pattern.

1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th sizes only

1st row: Purl
2nd row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, knit to end.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, purl to end.
4th row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, knit to end.
5th row: Purl 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches; [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, purl to end.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

3rd and 7th sizes only
(Note: same instructions for both sizes)

1st row: Purl
2nd row: K4, purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k7, * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, purl next stitch, winding yarn 3 times round needle, k4.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p4,yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p7, * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p4.
4th row: Knit 4, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k7 * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k4.
5th row: Purl 4, yb, slip l purlwise, p7 * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; yb, slip l purlwise, p4.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

All sizes

Continue in pattern ...

....until work measures 14 [14½; 14½; 15; 15; 15½; 15½; 16; 16] inches from the beginning , ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 69 [75; 79; 83; 87; 91; 95; 99; 101] stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 8¼ [; ; 9; ; ; ; 10; 10¼] inches from the commencement of the armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as given for back from to until work measures 8 rows less than the Back to armhole shapings ending with a wrong side row.

Shape First side of neck
Next row (right side facing): Pattern , 43 [46; 49; 52; 54; 57; 60; 63; 65], p2tog, p1. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Pattern to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to last 9 stitches, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern to end.

††
Continue to decrease in this way at the neck edge on every 4th row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until there are 29 [32; 34; 35; 37; 39; 41; 43; 43] stitches remaining.
Keeping side edge straight, decrease at neck edge as before until 20 [22; 23; 25; 26; 28; 29; 30; 30] stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as the Back to shoulder shaping, ending at the side edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 9; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches.
††

Return to the stitches on the spare needle on the other half of the front. Slip the centre stitch onto a safety pin.

Shape second side of neck:
Next row: Joining in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, p1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row:P1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: Pattern 7, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 7, work 2 together, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.

Complete to match the first side, working from †† to ††.

Neckband

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches down left side of neck, knit centre from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread or stitch marker), pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches of back neck, increasing into last stitch: 167 [173; 179; 183; 189; 193; 199; 205; 211] stitches.

1st row: Work in k1/p1 rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch; slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at back of work, place stitch on right hand needle back onto
left hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle and p3tog; p1/k1 rib to end.
2nd row: Rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at front of work, slip next stitch onto right hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle, then place both stitches on right hand needle back onto left hand needle and k3tog; rib to end.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more, then the first row once.
Cast off in rib, decreasing on this row as before.

Armbands

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join left shoulder seam and Neckband. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 90 [94; 96; 100; 102; 104; 108; 110; 112] stitches evenly along armhole edge.
Work 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and steam very gently, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Using matching yarn, join side seams and armbands.

Materials

Yarn A - bouclé double knitting: 3 [3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5; 5; 5] x 50g balls
Yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting: 3 [3; 3; 3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5] x 50g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit: 32 [34; 36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48] inches.

Chest actual: 34 [36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48; 50] inches.

Length: 23-27 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

sl: slip

yb: yarn back

A word on the wool

You can see in the picture this is knitted in two different colours and textures of double knitting yarn.

Finding a substitute will not be impossible as DK yarns are fairly standard, though it might be trickier to find the bouclé.

The example shown, used Stylecraft double knitting yarn in just the one texture (no bouclé). It took 125g of the maroon colour and just under 100g of the grey (or silver).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PlaidSlipoverU.jpg

Joy's DH - doesn't he look pleased? (and only a little self-conscious...)

April 2016

Seafarers' Sweaters

This has to be a favourite for me, combining a boating theme with navy and white.
It is a pattern from the seventies but was quite a new idea - a forerunner of those drop shoulders and cowl neck designs which were so ubiquitous in the eighties - and seemingly popular now.

Instructions.

Instructions for six sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in two colours (dark and light) - Navy is represented by D (dark) and Cream represented by L (light).

Back

With No 9 needles and yarn D, cast on 84 (92 : 97 : 100 : 108 : 112) stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
2nd row:
k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows until rib measures 3 inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 5 needles and knit 1 row, increasing 1 stitch at centre:. [85 (93 : 97 : 101 : 109 : 113) sts]

Join in yarn L, and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: right side facing, in L, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4), sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, * k7, sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4).
2nd row: in L, knit.
3rd row: in D, k 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, * k9, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches, k7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5).
4th row: in D, knit.
5th-16th row: as 1st-4th rows worked 3 times.

17th row: in L, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k7, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, k 7 ; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches , sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
18th row: : in L, knit.
19th row: in D, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k9, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
20th row: in D, knit.
21st-32nd rows: as 17th-20th rows worked 3 times.

These 32 rows form pattern. Repeat them until back measures 15 (15 : 15 : 16 : 16 : 16) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [75 (83 : 87 : 91 : 99 : 103) sts].

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until back measures 23 (23 : 24 : 25 : 26 : 26) inches, ending with right side facing

Shape shoulders by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 51 (59 : 63 : 67 : 75 : 79) stitches remain.
Cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 5 (5 : 4 : 6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Slip the remaining 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back to start of armhole shapings.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33), slip these stitches on a spare needle, cast off 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches, pattern to end.

Continue on these last 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33) stitches for the first side and work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by decreasing 1 stitch at end of next row, then at the same edge on every row until 11 (13 : 14 : 16 : 19 : 21) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, then cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin appropriate yarn colour to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 9 needles and D, cast on 40 (40 : 44 : 44 : 48 : 48) stitches and work 3 inches in rib as for back, ending with wrong side facing.

Change to No 5 needles.
Next row: k2, m1, {k9 (9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 11), m1) 4 times, k2. [45 (45 : 49 : 49 : 53 : 53) sts].

Join in L and pattern 4 rows as for 2nd (2nd : 3rd : 3rd : 4th : 4th), size of back.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73 : 81 : 81 : 89 : 89) stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 17½ (17½ : 18½ : 19 : 20 : 20) inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 83 (83 : 91 : 91 : 99 : 99) stitches. Break L.

Change to No 9 needles.
Next row: in D, knit, increasing 5 stitches evenly across row. [88 (88 : 96 : 96 : 104 : 104) sts].

Work 7 rows rib as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side following instructions on the ball band and omitting ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar:

With right side facing, using the set of four (or circular) No 9 needles and D, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) from back decreasing 1 stitch at centre, then pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches down left side of neck. [128 (132 : 144 : 144 : 156 : 156) sts].

Divide stitches evenly on 3 needles to facilitate working.
Work backwards and forwards, starting with 2nd row, and rib 42 (48 : 52 : 52 : 56 : 56) rows as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew short edges of collar in position to cast-off stitches on front, overlapping right side on to left for Her sweater and left on to right for His.

Join side seams and sleeve seams up to rib.
Join side edge of rib to cast-off stitches at start of armholes on back and front, then sew cast-off edge of rib to armhole edges.
Press seams.

Materials

Aran weight yarn: 10 (11 : 12 : 13 : 14 : 15) 50g balls in Navy and 6 (7 : 7 : 8 : 8 : 9) in Cream.

A pair each of Nos 9 (3¾mm) and 5 (5½mm) needles.
A set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles - or a circular needle.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 19 sts x 36 rows to 4 ins measured over pattern on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches, 86 (91 : 97 : 102 : 107 : 112) cm.
Length from top of shoulders: 25 (25 : 26 : 27 : 28 : 28) inches, 63 (63 : 66 : 69 : 71 : 71) cm.
Length of sleeve at centre: 19½ (19½ : 20½ : 21 : 22 : 22) inches, 49 (49 : 52 : 53 : 56 : 56) cm.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch purlwise with yarn at back.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Capstan - an Aran weight yarn knitting to a tension of 18 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch. No clues as to the yardage but it was a fairly dense pure wool so I would not expect it to have a long yardage

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2016

Duck Slippers for Easter

DucksSlippers.jpg

Cute little slippers with ducklings, or kittens.
Easy and quick to knit, with their very effective little pom-pom heads.
[I'm guessing that with a little adaptation you could close in the top of the slippers and stuff them to make tiny duckling toys - if you are feeling adventurous....?!]

Instructions

There are two sizes with instructions for the second size given in brackets.

Both versions:

Using either yellow (for duckling) or white (for kitten) and No 9 needles, cast on 20 (26) stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): sl1, k8(11), p2, k9(12)
2nd row: sl1, k9(12), m2 (1), k10(13)
3rd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k2(1), p1, k9(12)
4th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k2(1), m1, k10(13)
5th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k4(3), p1, k9(12)
6th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k4(3), m1, k10(13)
7th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k6(5), p1, k9(12)
8th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k6(5), m1, k10(13)
9th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(7), p1, k9(12). [28(33) sts]

2nd size only
10th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(7), m1, k-(13)
11th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(9), p1, k-(12)
12th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(9), m1, k-(13)
13th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(11), p1, k-(12). [28(37) sts]

Both sizes - continue as follows:

1st row: sl1, knit to end.
2nd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(11), p1, k9(12).

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2½ (3) inches ending with a 1st row.

Next row: sl1, {m1, k3}, 2(3) times, m1, k2, p1, {k2, m1} 3(4) times, k 2(3), p1, k2, {m1, k3} 2(3) times, m1, k1. [37(49) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 4½ () inches ending with right side facing.

Next row: k1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 1(2) times,rib 5, {k2tog} 1(2) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, k1.

Next row: rib 1(2), {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, p1, {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1(2).

Next row: {k2tog} 3(2) times, {k3tog} 1(3) times, {k2tog} 3 times. [7(8) sts]

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches; draw up tightly and fasten off securely.
Join toe seam along to start of garter stitch. Fold cast-on edge in half and join heel seam.

Completing the Duckling version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining yellow yarn, each 1½ inches in diameter.
[Editor's note: You can see how to make pom-poms in one of my other entries in 2013.]

Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 small circles of blue felt for eyes and sew to each side of the heads, ensuring that the needle passes through the centre of each pom-pom to keep the eyes secure.
Cut 2 beaks of yellow felt, fold in half and oversew along fold. Sew the beak in position to the centre front of the pom-poms, pushing fold of beak in towards centre of pom-pom and sewing in place securely.

Completing the Kitten version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining white yarn each 1½ inches in diameter. Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 triangles of pink felt for ears and sew one to each side on top of the heads with one point upwards, ensuring needle passes through the centre of the pom-pom to make the ears secure.
Cut 4 small ovals of blue felt for eyes and sew in position.
Cut 2 very small triangles of pink felt for nose and sew to centre front of face.
Thread 2 Strands of pink yarn through pompon from side to side of
face for whiskers, and trim. (See photo).

Materials

Duckling version:
1 x 50g ball in yellow.
Kitten version:
1 x 50g ball in white with scraps of pink for whiskers.

Pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Scraps of yellow, pink, and blue felt.

Tension

23sts x 48 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit 5-5½ (6-6½) sock size.

Abbreviations:

sl1: slip a stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.
m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
m2: make 2 stitches by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the front and back of it.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2016

Soft knit sash cardigan

SashCardigan.jpg

Cosy and snug wrap cardigan with a sash belt. I would probably knit it for myself as shown, but it may be more stylish if worn longer or over-sized and perhaps without pockets.

The original yarn was a soft heathered and slightly fluffy Shetland type. I think this would be lovely knitted in the hand-dyed yarn available from the Little Grey Sheep.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 4 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Note: Where a number of stitches is given, this refers to the basic number and does not include those made in the pattern.

[Editor's note: I have copied the note above from the original pattern - it will make more sense when you start knitting as the the number of stitches you end up with at the end of each row increases and decreases as part of the pattern stitch.]

Back

With No 11 needles, cast on 112 (120 : 126 : 132) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15), {ml, rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15)} 6 (5 : 6 : 6) times, ml, rib to end. [119 (126 : 133 : 139) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches , Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
3rd row:as 1st.
4th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
5th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p5, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, p5, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
6th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
7th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p7, k6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, p7, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
8th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
9th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p9, k6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches. p9, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
10th row: k 1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
11th row: as 7th.
12th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
13th row: as 5th.
14th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

These 14 rows form pattern for back.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures approximately 18 inches, ending with 14th pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern shape armholes as follows:

Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), k4 (1 : 7 : 1), * p3, k6 repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), *
Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p4 (1 : 7 : 1), k 1
Next row: k5 (2 : 8 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, p 3, k5 (2 : 8 : 2).

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Cast off remaining 39 (40 : 41 : 43) stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 9 needles, cast on 30 stitches and work 29 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row
Next row: k6, (ml, k6) 4 times. [34 stitches].
Leave these stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**
With No 11 needles, cast on 54 (58 : 62 : 64) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 9 (11 : 15 : 14), {ml, rib 12 (12 : 16 : 12)} 3 (3 : 2 : 3) times, ml, rib to end: [58 (62 : 65 : 68) stitches]
*
*

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k6 (2 : 6 : 6), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches , Tw3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work a further 27 rows, thus ending with 1st pattern row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of first pocket lining, pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22).

Continue straight in pattern until 14 rows less have been worked than on back to start of armhole shaping, thus ending with 14th pattern row.

Shape front edge as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k4 (9 : 4 : 4), pattern to end.
Next row: pattern to last 8 (13 : 8 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p4 (9 : 4 : 4), k1.
Work 2 rows straight.

Decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58 : 61 : 64) stitches remain, keeping stitches at front edge in reverse stocking stitch as placed.

Work 1 row straight.

Next row: k11 (7 : 11 : 11), pattern to end.

Shape armhole as follows:
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p6 repeat from * to last 14 (10 : 14 : 14) stitches, Tw3 p10 (6 : 10 : 10), k1.

Keep armhole edge straight and continue to decrease 1 stitch at front edge on next and every following 4th row until 23 (24 : 25 : 27) stitches remain.

Note: When shaping at front edge do not continue panel pattern nearest this edge if there are insufficient stitches to work another complete pattern; instead take stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * k3, p 6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches, p3, k6 (2 : 6 : 6).
2nd row: k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern work a further 27 rows, thus ending after 1st pattern row, with right side facing for next row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch-holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of second pocket lining, pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12).
Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles, cast on 46 (48 : 50 : 52) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/ p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (7 : 7 : 6), {ml, rib 8 (5 : 4 : 5)} 4 (7 : 9 : 8) times, ml, rib to end. [51 (56 : 60 : 61) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, k3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.
Now continue in pattern as for back. Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row: k6 (4 : 6 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, p3, k6 (4 : 6 : 2).
2nd row: k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 12th (10th : 8th : 2nd), and then every following 4th row until there
are 101 (108 : 114 : 121),stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.
Work straight until sleeve measures approximately 21 inches at centre, ending with 1st pattern row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Join shoulders, side and sleeve seams, leaving 2½ ( : 3 : 3), inches open at the top of sleeve seam; then insert the sleeves sewing rows left free at top along cast-off stitches on back and fronts at start of armholes.

Front Borders

Left: With No 11 needles, cast on 9 stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front and round to centre back of neck, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go
along. Cast off in rib.

Right: Work to correspond with left, with the addition of 7 buttonholes, first to come ½ inches up from lower edge, 7th at start of neck shaping and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left border with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end, then when knitting the next row back, cast on 3 over those cast off.

[Editor's note: If you are making an over-sized cardigan, you may wish to omit the buttonholes and just have the tie belt for closure.]

Pocket Tops

With right side facing and No 11 needles, k34 stitches from stitch holder, increasing 1 stitch in centre. [35 sts]
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib as for borders.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly on right side and pocket linings lightly on wrong side.

Belt

With No 11 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 52 (54 : 56 : 58) inches in rib as for front borders. Cast off evenly in rib.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

11 (12 : 12 : 13) x 50 gram balls Double Knitting in "Heather"

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

2 stitch-holders

7 buttons

Tension

27 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches; sleeve seam: 21 inches for all sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

Tw3: twist 3 sts by knitting 3rd stitch on left needle, then knit 2nd stitch, then knit 1st stitch and slip all 3 stitches off the needle together.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona. This was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 100 yards per 50g.

It is a slightly heavier weight DK so a worsted might make a good substitute. "Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2016

Blanket Coat

Coatigan1.jpg

....or "coatigan" *.
Shown on a chap but I would like it for me... and let's face it - he looks pretty silly - even for 1976 as I remember it....
It's a very simple knit being made up of rectangles in garter stitch - if I had a loom wide enough I would actually like to have a go at weaving the fabric - but here is the knitted version - plus a man's vest or slipover which is illustrated with it.

[* I believe I am not the only one who hates this word - I am not sure it adds anything much to the meaning but .... it is the jargon of the moment]

Coat Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The original coat was knitted in coloured stripes of garter stitch using a tweedy yarn. The basic design is very simple made up of block rectangles and can easily be knitted in a single colour if preferred.

Left Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 45 (47 : 49) stitches and work 5 rows in garter stitch.

Continue with double yarn and garter stitch and work 2 rows A; 6 rows C. Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, working in stripes as follows:
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C

These 42 rows form the striped pattern. Repeat them 4 times more, then rows 1-24 inclusive again. **

Continue in pattern but shaping neck as follows:
Next row: knit to the last 3 stitches, cast off 3.
Break yarn.

Rejoin yarn at neck edge and keeping side edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge the next 3 rows, then on the following 4 alternate rows, ending at side edge.

Shape shoulder as follows:
1st row: cast off 4 (5 : 6), knit to end
Work one row straight.
3rd row: cast off 5, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Work 1 row straight
5th row: cast off 5, knit to end.
Work 1 row
7th row: as 3rd row.

Now cast of 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 6) stitches.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Next row: Cast off 3, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with left front reversing shapings.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 95 (99 : 103) stitches. Continue with double yarn and work 5 rows in C; 2 rows A; 6 rows C.
Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, continue in garter stitch striped pattern as for left front.

Work straight until back measures same as front to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending with same row as left front.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, then 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 29 stitches.

Sleeves

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 105 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until sleeve measures 7 inches, ending with a 1st row.

Next row: k2 * k2tog, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k3. [90 sts]

Join in A and work in garter stitch striped pattern,a s given for Left Front, repeating the 42 rows 3 times in all, and then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Cast off.

Right Border (for a man - left border for a woman)

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 15 stitches.

1st row (right side facing): k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until border fits up the front - when slightly stretched - to the start of the neck shaping, ending with a 2nd row.
Cast off in rib, and sew border in position.

Left Border (for a man - right border for a woman)

Work to correspond with right border, with the addition of 6 buttonholes, the first to come 6 inches up from the lower edge and the 6th to come ¾ inch below the start of the neck shaping and the rest spaced evenly in between.

First mark the positions of the buttons on the opposite border, and work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 6, cast off 3, rib to end. On the next row cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

Sew second border in position, taking care that the stripes are level with those on the opposite front.

Pockets (make 2)

With No 6 (5mm) needles and C, cast on 31 stitches and work in garter stitch stripes as follows:

5 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A

Break off B and A.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and join in an extra strand of C - using C yarn double, knit a further 5 rows.
Cast off knitwise.

Make a second pocket in the same way.

Collar

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 113 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows for 7 inches, ending with 2nd row, and cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.
Place a marker at side edges on back and fronts 9 inches down from shoulder seams, then sew cast-off edge of sleeves between markers.
Join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes and reversing seam for cuffs. Turn back 4 inch cuffs and catch in position on sleeve
seam.
Sew cast-on edge of collar to neck edge, starting and ending in centre of front borders.
Fold collar in half to right side and oversew double edges neatly.

Pin pockets on fronts, lower edge of pocket to come at start of 3rd broad stripe in C, 1¼ inches from side seam.
Sew pockets neatly in position taking care to match stripes with main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons

Materials

5 (5 : 6) 50g balls in colour A (beige); 4 (4 : 5) in B (pink); 8 (9 : 9) in C (olive) worsted or DK.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 38 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 34½ ins or 88 cm, all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

A word on the wool.

The original yarns was Patons Bracken Tweed which was a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The original yarn I remember from the 1960s was almost certainly 100% wool; however it seems a later incarnation was with 40% acrylic and it is likely that this pattern refers to that yarn. I can't offer any insights on yardage for either of these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Coatigan2.jpg


Coatigan6.jpg

Here is a version of the coat that I made. I have written copious notes about its construction in a blog entry "The Age of Aquarius"!


CoatiganSlipover.jpg

Slipover Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The slipover is worked in one colour.

Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 103 (107 : 113) stitches.

1st row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows for 4 inches, ending with a 2nd row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.

Next row (right side facing): knit 5 (7 : 4), k2tog, * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (8 : 5) stitches, knit to end. [87 (91 : 95) sts]

Continue in garter stitch and work straight until front measures 16 (16 : 16½) inches ending with right side facing.
**

Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69 (71 : 73) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Continue shaping armhole and shape neck as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k32 (33 : 34). Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 33 (34 : 35) stitches only for the first side, and work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 27 (28 : 29) stitches remain.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 4th row until 16 (17 : 18) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 25 (25 : 25½) inches, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 4 (4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4 (4 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **.
Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 67 (69 : 71) stitches remain, and then on every following 4th row until 61 (63 : 65) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front to shoulder at armhole edge.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:
Cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 4, k11 (11 : 12), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

1st row: k2tog, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast off 4, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 23 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press as for coat. Join right shoulder seam.

Neck Border:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left side of neck, k1 from safety pin, (mark this stitch), pick up and knit 53 stitches up right side, then 5 down shaped edge of back, k23 from spare needle, increasing 4 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 5 up left edge of back neck. [145 sts].

1st row (wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of centre marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of marked stitch, p2tog, k1, p2tog tbl, k1 ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more, and then 1st row again.
Cast off in rib decreasing at centre stitch as before.

Join left shoulder seam and border.

Armhole Borders:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 116 (118 : 120) stitches all round each armhole.
Work in 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.

Press seams.

Materials

Materials

6 (6 : 7) 50g balls in colour A (beige) worsted or double knitting.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 30 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 25 (25 : 25½) inches or 63 (63 : 65) cm.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2015

Midi Cardigan

MidiCardigan2.jpg

The trend for the winter is layers of knitwear, including long sleeveless cardigans, worn over knitted dresses, (which I would personally find too warm in this era of stifling central heating in most public spaces). However, there are other ways to wear it especially "between seasons" - and this is a nice example from the seventies, (but not too dissimilar to those around at the moment).

I have seen examples where front and back are split up the sides, which would give it a modern edge; this design is knitted "all in one" up to the armholes but if you are a more experienced knitter you could work out how to make fronts and backs separate up to about mid thigh.

Cardigan Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.
If you want to separate the backs and fronts up to mid thigh, you can do this and knit the first section of the pattern on each piece up to the start of the side shaping. If you do this, you might keep 2 or 3 edge stitches at the sides in garter or moss stitch until they are joined.
Join the pieces on the first "shape sides" row.
Note that you need to ensure the yarn you are using has a suitable drape for this style ie the knitted fabric is not too firm, and you will have to work out how to place the pattern stitches to keep continuity, when you join them.

Pocket linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work 5½ inches in stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p2, m1p, (p6, m1p) 5 times, p2. [40 sts]

Leave stitches on a spare needle and make second pocket lining the same.

Back and Fronts

With No 10 needles, cast on 290 (308 : 326 : 344) stitches and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 8 needles.
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k 10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): pl, * (Tw2L, pl) twice, p6, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k8, pl, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, pl) twice, p4, (p1, Tw2R) twice; p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1, * (k2, p1) twice, k6, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, kl.
5th row: p1, * p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice, k1 : repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: pl, * p3, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p. l, Tw2R) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p.l.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p3, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R., p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: k1, * k3, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
11th row:p1, * p. 3, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p3; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: p1, * p3, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 8th.
15th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 6th.
17th row: p1,* p1, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: as 4th.
19th row: p1,* (p1, Tw2R) twice, p6, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 2nd.
21st row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p6, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
22nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
23rd row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p10, k1, p2, k1,repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
24th row: as 22nd.

Repeat the last 24 rows twice more, then rows 1 to 22 inclusive again.

[Editor's note: If you have knitted fronts and back separate to this point, join them here - on the last or the following row.]

Shape sides as follows:

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2 tog, p6, p2tog, k1,p. 2, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1. [258 (274 : 290 : 306) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p4, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, k 1: repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1,* p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, pl) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p2, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.
10th row: as 8th.
11th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 6th.
13th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 4th.
15th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 2nd.
17th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1 ) twice, p4, (p1 Tw2L) twice; repeat
from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
19th row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 18th.

Repeat the last 20 rows once more, then rows 1 to 12 inclusive again.

Place pocket linings as follows:

Next row: pattern 17, * slip next 40 stitches on a stitch-holder, and in place of these, pattern across 40 stitches of one pocket lining *, pattern to last 57 stitches, repeat from * to *, pattern last 17 stitches.

Work a further 7 rows straight in pattern, then work rows 1 to 18 inclusive again.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, p4, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [226 (240 : 254 : 268) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

**
Continue in pattern as follows:
1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1, * k1, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p1, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, pl.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: pl, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: as 4th.
11th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 2nd.
13th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: p1,* k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 14th.
**

Repeat the last 16 rows once more, then rows 1 to 14 inclusive again.

Next row: as 15th.
Next row: as 14th.

The last 2 rows form bodice pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 35 inches at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck and at the same time divide for fronts as follows:

Next row: cast off 7, pattern 49 (52 : 56 : 59), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for RIGHT FRONT, shaping armhole and neck as follows:
Next row: cast off 8, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 29 (32 : 32 : 35) stitches remain, then at each end of next and every alternate row until, 19 (22 : 22 : 25) stitches remain.

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at armhole edge on following 1 (3 : 2 : 4) alternate rows. [18 (19 : 20 : 21) sts]

Work straight until front measures 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches at centre, ending with wrong side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; cast off 8, pattern 106 (114 : 120 : 128), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a
spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for BACK, shaping armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row, until 86 (94 : 96 : 104) stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row, until 74 (78 : 82 : 86) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Leave remaining 38 (40 : 42 : 44) stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches for LEFT FRONT, cast off 8, pattern to end.

Next row: cast off 7, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Front Borders:

Left: With No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k2, (p1, k 1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k 1) 5 times.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front to start of neck shaping when slightly stretched, ending with 2nd row.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin at top and sew border neatly in position.

Right: Work to correspond with left border with the addition of 12 buttonholes. 1st to come 7½ inches above lower edge, and 12th to come 2¼ inches below start of neck shaping, with the remainder
spaced evenly between. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end; on the next row, cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing and taking care not to over-press and spoil the pattern.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and knit 116 (128 : 128 : 140) stitches round each armhole and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join shoulder seams.

Neck Border: With right side facing and No10 needles, work as follows:
Rib 11 border stitches , pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 38 (40 : 42 : 44) from back decreasing 1 stitch in centre, pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) down left side, rib 11 from left border. [163 (173 : 175 : 185) sts]

Work 1 row k1/p1 rib as for border. Make 13th buttonhole in next 2 rows as before, then work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Tops:

With right side facing and No 10 needles, knit across each set of 40 pocket stitches, decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [39 sts]
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib as for border.
Cast off in rib.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

16 (17 : 19 : 20) 1oz balls in Tweed Grey double knitting yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

13 buttons.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in four sizes to fit chest: 32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches.
Length from top of shoulders 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

Tw2L: purl into back of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Tw2R: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona, which appeared in both 1oz and later 50g balls.It was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 104 yards per 50g.
Note that this pattern calls for 1oz balls (1oz is about 28g).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hat Instructions.

With No 10 needles, cast on 104 stitches, and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Next row: rib 1, m1p, * rib 2, m1p; repeat from * to last stitch, rib 1. [156 sts]

Change to No 8 needles.
1st row:
p1, * k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work 16 rows in pattern as for main part from ** to ** as given in cardigan instructions to make one diamond pattern panel (see photo).
Then repeat 1st and 2nd rows above, 7 times.

Shape crown as follows:
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [145 sts]

Keeping continuity of pattern, work 1 row straight.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch,
p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from last stitch, p1.
Work 1 .row straight. [123 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight. [101 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
[79 sts]
Work 1 row straight.

Change to stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and continue shaping as follows:

Next row: k3, k2tog, * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4 : 68 stitches Next row: purl.
Next row: k3, k2tog , * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches , k3.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, k2tog,* k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. [46 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k2; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from to end. [24 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [12 sts]

Break yarn. Thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly and fasten off.

Press work very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join centre back seam.
Press seam.

Materials

2 x 1 oz balls of double knitting yarn.

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size "to fit an average head".

Abbreviations

As given for cardigan above.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Cape Swings into Fashion

LinedCape.jpg

This is an earlier version of a knitted cape and includes a (knitted) lining - so potentially nice and warm. I thought it was a good option to publish alongside the seventies version.
The lining is knitted but if you did not want to commit to all that knitting I think it might be simple enough to cut out the shapes in fabric to create the lining - as long as you choose a material that's not too stiff or thick, although the cape as shown seems to be styled with quite a firm structure.
Of course you could easily knit the cape in a plain stitch instead of the pattern illustrated.

Instructions.

Instructions for only one medium size - could be adapted by using a thicker yarn and bigger needles - but do work out your tension to check the size.

Cape section (make 6)

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and D, cast on 80 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): in B k5, * with wool at back, slip 2 purlwise, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
2nd row: in B k1, * wool forward, slip 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: in D k3, * wool forward, sl 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
4th row: in D k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
5th row: in B k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: in B k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[Editor's note: the next 6 rows are repeats of the first 6 but reversing the colours.]

7th row: in D k5, *SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
8th row: in D k1, * SL 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: in B k3, * wool forward, SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
10th row: in B k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
11th row: in D k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
12th row: in D k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Repeat the 12 pattern rows 3 times more, then the first 6 rows again.

Keeping pattern correct and keeping a knit stitch at each end of every purl row, as before, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row, until 46 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 34 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 20 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.
Cast off in D.

Make 5 more sections in same way.

Lining section (make 6)

With No 10 (3½mm) needles cast on 70 stitches and work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next row: knit.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Place a marker at each end and in the centre of the last row.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch for a further 38 rows.
With wrong side facing, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until 40 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Make 5 more sections in the same way.

To Make Up

Use a large tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of wool for sewing,
taking care the wool remains twisted during making up.

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Using a fine back stitch seam (or mattress stitch), join 4 sections of the cape together at the side edges.

Now join one of the 2 remaining sections to one side of cape as follows (to make armhole slits at the front):
Join sides together for 4 inches from lower edge.
Leave the next 8 inches open for arm slits, then join remainder of side seam. Join remaining section to other side in the same way.

Join the lining in the same way, measuring the 4 inches up to the arm slits from the purl ridge.
Press seams.

Pin cape to lining, wrong sides together, lower edge of cape in line with markers on lining ; tack in position.
Sew hem of lining neatly to edge of cape, then catch lining to cape round arm slits.

Right Front Border: With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row: k6, SL 1, k6.
2nd row: purl.

Repeat these 2 rows until strip fits up right front edge when stretched, ending with right side facing.
Note: For a good fit band needs to be 3 inches shorter than edge of cape.

Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Left Front Border: Work as for right border, ending with wrong side facing.
Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Sew one edge of border in position to cape, from lower edge to 9 inches below neck, without stretching. Now ease the last 9 inches of the front edge on to the remainder of the band.
Fold the borders in half at the slipped stitch, and sew the other edge in position to the lining.

Neck Border: With right side of cape facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, k6 stitches of right border, pick up and knit 14 stitches from the top of each section, k6 border stitches. [96 sts]

Work 5 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Next row: purl.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 4 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.

Fold the neck border in half at the ridge, and slip-hem in position to the lining. Sew on fastenings as in photo.
Give cape a final light press.

Materials

22 x 1oz balls in DK yarn D (Ocean Deep ), and 9 balls in yarn B (Banff Brown).

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 8 (4mm) and 7 (4½mm) needles.

Clasp hooks to fasten.
[Editor's note: You can find a good selection at the Textile Garden]

Tension

The tension is given as 26sts and 42 rows to 4 inches over the pattern on No 7 needles.
[Editor's note: the pattern stitch alters the tension making it much tighter than a plain stitch, so if you plan to knit the cape plain you will need to carefully check the tension and needles size.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size sizes to fit chest: 34-38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders 27 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

sl 1 (or sl 2): slip 1 (or 2) stitches by passing the stitch from one needle to the other without knitting it.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Fiona - a slightly fluffy Shetland double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Wraparound Midi Cape

WraparoundCape.jpg

Capes being the thing of the moment (though maybe not quite like this one).
Styled "Edwardian" from the early 1970s - hence the floppy hat and slightly whimsical setting a la Laura Ashley - I might choose to make this somewhat shorter, plain rather than striped, and use a tweed or textured yarn of some sort.

So.... a midi cape - and if that were not wonderful enough... it comes with matching trousers! How great is that?!

Cape Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The cape is knitted in stripes of 3 different yarns - labelled Medium, Light and Dark - the Medium (or Main) colour is a bouclé and the Light (Red) and Dark (Brown) are smooth yarns.

Back

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 92 (98 : 104) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (3 : 6) m1, * rib 6 (7 : 7), m1 ; repeat from * to last 7 (4 : 7) stitches, rib 7 (4 : 7). [106 (112 : 118) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work in stripes as follows:

1st and 2nd rows: in D.
3rd to 6th rows:
in M.
7th and 8th rows: in L.
9th to 12th rows: in M.

These 12 rows form the striped pattern. [Note: Carry yarns loosely up side of work.]

Continue in pattern and work a further 12 rows straight.

Shape sides:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.
Repeat the last 12 rows until 70 (76 : 82) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 32 inches (81 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.
Place a marker at each end of last row.

Continue decreasing 2 stitches as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 38 (44 : 50) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30 : 32) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 46 (48 : 52) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 (3 : 3) m1, * rib 8 (7 : 9), m1 ; repeat from * to last 3 (3 : 4) stitches, rib 3 (3 : 4). [52 (55 : 58) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping side edge as follows:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to end.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 34 (37 : 40) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back to marker, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Now decrease 1 stitch as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Continue decreasing at the side edge on every 4th row from previous decrease, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 9 (13 : 16) stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the side edge as before, but on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time continue decreasing at neck edge on the next and following 1 (3 : 5) alternate rows. [5 (5 : 4) stitches remain].

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at side edge as before on following 2 (2 : 1) alternate rows. [3 sts]

Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, k2tog.
Next row: p2.
Next row:
k2tog.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'togtbl' when shaping side edge.

Side Panels (make 2)

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 80 (84 : 88) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 1 (3 : 5), m1, * rib 7, m1 ; repeat from * last 2 (4 : 6) stitches, rib 2 (4 : 6). [92 (96 : 100) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles, and stocking stitch, and starting with a knit row, work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping sides as follows:

Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2togtbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 56 (60 : 64) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until work matches back to markers, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Continue decreasing as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 28 (32 : 36) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 10 stitches remain all sizes.
Work 1 row straight.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Make a second side in the same way.

Left Front Border

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 9 sts.

1st rows (right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 4 times.

Repeat the last 2 rows until the strip fits up the left front to the start of the neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a safety-pin at the top and sew border in position.

Right Front Border

Work to correspond with the left border with the addition of 13 buttonholes. The first buttonhole is to come 4 inches (10 cm) up from the lower edge, and the 13th is 2 inches (5 cm) below the start of the neck shaping; the remainder are spaced evenly between.

First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.
Pin side panels to back; join panels up to markers matching stripes carefully, then join the remainder of the seam.

In the same way, join the front panels to side panels, leaving 9 inch (23 cm) slits for hands, bottom of slit to come 18½ inches (47 cm) up from the lower edge.
[Editor's note: If you are making a shorter cape you will need to work out where you need to put the slits for the arms.]

Right Slit Border:
With No 10 needles and M, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the front edge of the slit and work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Left slit border: work to correspond.

Neck Border:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and M, work as follows:

Rib 9 from right border, pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) stitches up right side of neck, k10 from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, 28 (30 : 32) stitches from back decreasing 3 stitches evenly, 10 stitches from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, then pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) down left side, and finally rib 9 from left border. [91 (95 : 99) stitches.

Work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows as before, then work 12 rows. Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows, then work 4 rows in rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Fold neck border in half to the wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position all round. Oversew loosely round double buttonhole.

Catch down short ends of slit borders neatly to main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

13 (13 : 14) 50g balls in a bouclé DK yarn M (Terrazo), and 3 (3 : 4) 50g balls each DK yarn D (Loam Brown) and yarn L (Red Earth).

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

14 buttons and 2 press studs

Tension

The tension is given as 20sts and 30 rows to 4 inches overall using the striped pattern on No 8 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 32-34 (34-38 : 40-42) inches or 81-86 (91-96 : 101-106) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 41½ (42 : 42½) inches or 105 (106 : 108) cm.

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarns were: Patons Totem - a standard double knitting using 4mm needles, and:
Patons Camelot (about which there is some misleading information on the web); it is a bouclé yarn knitted on 4mm needles with a stated tension of 19 sts to 4 inches - which makes it a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The pattern knits these yarns alternately in stripes and this overcomes their differences. In substituting I would look for any DK or worsted weight that I liked and experiment with needle sizes to get the stated tension.

I can't offer any insights on yardage for these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


WraparoundCape2.jpg

Trousers Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The trousers are worked in one colour.

Left Leg

**
With No 10 needles, cast on 86 (90 : 96 : 100 : 106 : 110) stitches, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 4 (6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 6), m1, * rib 11 (11 : 12 : 12 : 13 : 14), m1; repeat from * to last 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6) stitches, rib 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6). [94 (98 : 104 : 108 : 114 : 118) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until leg measures 25 (25 : 25½ : 25½ : 26 : 26) inches (63 (63 : 65 : 65 : 66 : 66) cm), ending with right side facing.

Shape leg as follows:

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 45 (47 : 50 : 52 : 55 : 57), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 47 (49 : 52 : 54 : 57 : 59), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 49 (51 : 54 : 56 : 59 : 61), m1, k1) twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 (100 : 106 : 110 : 116 : 120) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 74 (78 : 88 : 92 : 102 : 106) stitches remain; then on every following 6th row until 66 (70 : 76 : 80 : 86 : 90) stitches remain.
**

Work 1 row straight.

***

Shape back as follows:

1st row: k29, turn.
2nd row and every alternate row: purl to end.
3rd row: k24, turn.
5th row: k19, turn.
7th row: k14, turn.
9th row: k9, turn.
11th row: k4, turn.
13th row: knit across all stitches picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and working it together with the next stitch to avoid a hole.

Change to No. 10 needles and work 1 inch (2 cm) k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Right Leg

Work as for left leg from ** to **.
Then work from *** to end, reading 'p' for 'k' and 'k' for 'p'.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.

Joint front, back and inside leg seams.
Press seams.

Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew to the inside of the waist ribbing using herringbone-stitch over the over the elastic to form a casing.

Materials

10 (10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 12) 50g balls of bouclé double knitting yarn (colour Terrazo)

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist of Trousers.

Tension

19 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

The pattern is given in six sizes to fit hips:

34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches;
[86 (91 : 96 : 101 : 106 : 111) cm].
Length of inside leg seam:
28 (28 : 28½ : 28½ : 29 : 29) inches;
[71 (71 : 72 : 72 : 73 : 73) cm].

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2015

Guernsey Socks

GuernseySocks5.jpg

One of my earliest POMs was for a "flag dishcloth" as I really like this traditional Guernsey pattern. These are 5ply socks which reflect this design on the upper part of the sock - the feet are knitted plain. This is a nice wool weight if you want a slightly thicker sock, and no need to be limited to navy or cream (nice though that is), as 5ply is generally available in a good range of colours.
It can also be a good way to use up left over 5 ply, especially if you bought the wool for a guernsey in large cones.

Instructions (work 2 alike).

Using No 11 needles, cast on 102sts.
Place 34sts on each of 3 needles and join in the round.
Place a stitch marker to show where the rounds start and finish.

First Round: * K2tog, k1, p2tog, p1. Repeat from * to end. [68 sts]

[Editor's note: Casting on 2 or 3 times the required stitches and then immediately decreasing on the first row provides a method of making sure you have a nice loose cast-on for the top of the sock. Otherwise chaps have a habit of yanking on their socks and right away breaking the first row of stitches, (ask me how I know...).]

Work 2 rounds in k2, p2 rib, then change to No 12 needles and work 8 more rounds in rib.

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round: Purl.
Next Round: Purl.

Change to No 11 needles and knit 1 round.

Flag Pattern

This pattern is worked down the leg as far as the ankle.

1st Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p2, k9; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * p3, kl, p5, k8, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p4, k7; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * p3, kl, p7, k6, repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p6, k5; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: * p3, kl, p9, k4, repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p8, k3; repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * p3, kl, p11, k2, repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p10, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * p3, kl, p13 repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 10 pattern rows 3 more times.
[Editor's note: You can, of course, repeat the 10 rows more times for a longer sock, but bear in mind you will need extra wool.]

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round (decrease): (p5, p2tog) to last 5 sts, p5. [59 sts]
Next Round (decrease): (k2tog, k18) twice; k2tog, k17. [56 sts].

Knit 3 rounds.

Divide for heel

Next Row: K14; turn.
1st Row: Slip 1; p27; turn.

Divide the remaining stitches on to two needles and leave to pick up later for the instep.

2nd Row: Slip 1; k27.
3rd Row: Slip 1; p27.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, 12 times more.

Turn Heel

Next Row: K18, slip 1, k1, psso (pass the slipped stitch over), turn.

Next Row: P9, p2tog, turn.
Next Row: K9, slip 1, k1, psso, turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all stitches are taken up and 10 sts remain, and (right side of work facing) knit across the 10 sts, then, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel.
Slip all instep sts on to one needle, and using 2nd needle knit across instep sts.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel, then knit 5 heel sts from the first needle, slipping them on the end of the 3rd needle to complete the round. [66 sts].

Shape instep:

Knit one round on all stitches.

Next round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 56 stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5½(6, 6½) inches, or desired length for foot.

Shape Toe:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

2nd round: Knit.
3rd round: Knit.

Repeat these 3 rounds until 28 sts remain.

Making Up

Knit stitches from 1st needle on to end of 3rd needle.
Graft or cast off the two sets of 14 sts together.

Materials

2 x 50g balls British Breeds Guersey 5ply

One set of 4 number 12 (2¾mm) needles, (or 2½mm if necessary), and,
one set of 4 number 11 (3mm) needles.

A stitch marker.

Tension

26sts and 32 rows to four inches on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit men's shoe sizes: 10 (10½, 11).

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: knit/purl 2 sts together.

SL 1: slip 1 stitch

SL 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2015

Nice and Easy ... hat and scarf

NiceNEasyHat2.jpg

This is the month for the Sailor's Society** "woolly hat week" (8th-14th February 2015). So I thought I would post this hat and scarf combination - easy to knit in 4 ply fingering weight knitting yarn - perhaps suitable for a sailor if you omit the pom-pom decoration!

You can find other patterns as well as where to send your hats on their website link above. Also see my previous POM from 2008 with other chunky hat patterns - including my all time favourite appropriately knitted in Fisherman's rib.

Here's what Hannah says: "Our international network of port chaplains and ship visitors give your amazing hats out to seafarers visiting port, while others are wrapped and included in the Christmas welfare parcels that are taken on board ship for the festive season. The need for more hats is ever-increasing! Drew, our Port Chaplain in Invergordon, has been known to give out 500 in a day on occasion!"

Instructions

Panels of moss stitch and flag stitch are used for this cosy scarf and pull on hat. The scarf is fringed and the hat trimmed with a large pom-pom.

Scarf

Cast on 72 sts
1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
2nd row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k6, p2; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
4th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k4, p4; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
6th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
8th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, p8; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until scarf measures 167½ cm (66 inches) from beginning, (or however long you want the scarf to be) ending with an 8th pattern row.

Cast off.

To make up the Scarf

Do not press.
Cut yarn into 30½ cm (12 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe into every alternate stitch along cast on and cast off edges.

Hat

Cast on 144 stitches.

Work in pattern as given for scarf, but without the moss stitch border on both sides. So set out your rows as follows:

1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * end.
2nd row: * k6, p2; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k4, p4; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to end.
6th row: * k2, p6; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p8; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.

Continue until work measures 25½ cm (10 inches) from beginning, ending with an 8th pattern row.

Shape crown

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, p2, ybk, sl 1, yfwd, p2tog, psso, p2; repeat from * to end of row. [126 sts]

Next row: * k4, p2, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k2, sl 1, p2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * to end of row. [108 sts]

Next row: * k1, p3, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [90 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 7, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [72 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [54 sts]

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 18 sts remain. Break off yarn, thread through sts, draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Do not press.
Join back seam reversing 7½ cm (3 inches) at lower edge.
Press seam lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron.
Turn back brim.

Trim with a large pom-pom.

Materials

7 x 50g balls 4 ply (fingering) yarn.

One pair 3¾ mm (UK 9) needles.
[Editors note: If you can't find 3¾ mm needles then you can use 3½ mm .]

Tension

26sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over moss stitch on 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 28 cm (11 inches) wide, by 167½ cm (66 inches) long, excluding fringe
Hat: to fit average adult head, width round crown 56 cm (22 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: purl 2 sts together.

ybk: put yarn to back of work.

yfwd: put yarn to front of work.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1 / k2tog / p2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 stitch).

sl 1, k2tog (p2tog), psso: slip 1, k2tog, (p2tog), pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 2 sts).

moss stitch: knit alternate sts k1/p1 but place the knit stitch over a purl in the row below and the purl stitch over a knit stitch. (Also called "seed stitch").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

NiceNEasyHat3.jpg

** Please note that the Sailors Society does seem to be a religious organisation, which I mention not through any disapproval on my part, but in case you would care to look at their website and ensure its aims do not go against anything you believe in.

January 2015

Tweed Cardigan Coat

TweedCoat1.jpg

Wonderfully stylish mid-1950s tweed coat-style cardigan. I had to leave the background in the photo - indicating knitwear alla moda - and an exotic photo-shoot.

"Double-knitting and bouclet are worked together to produce this attractive tweed-knit fabric."

The style is simple enough to knit (all boxy shapes) and one feels could be adapted to larger sizes. However the real issue here will be choosing an appropriate yarn; the pattern indicates it is mostly knitted in a bouclé yarn knitted double and yet the resulting tension seems relatively fine (over the pattern stitch).

Instructions.

The DK is used singly throughout and the Bouclet is used double with either one ball of white together with one ball of black or two balls of black, as stated in the pattern instructions.

Back

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 142 sts fairly loosely and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in double boucle.
2nd row: Knit in double boucle.
3rd row: Join in DK.
* Slip 2 purlways, k3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: * Slip 2 purlways, p3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
5th row: As first row
6th row: As first row.
7th row: * k2 in DK, slip 3 purlways; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2 in DK.
8th row: * p2 DK; slip 3 purlways: repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2 DK.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ inches at centre. Place a coloured thread at each end of the row here to mark the start of the armholes as no actual shaping is done.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 24½ inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next 10 rows; cast off remainder.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet, cast on 32 sts and work about 2½, inches straight in pattern, ending with a row on the wrong side; leave sts on a spare needle. Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 82 sts and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with same pattern row as the pocket lining. Here start pocket opening.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts; (slip last 67 sts on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being); pattern across 32 sts of one of the pocket linings [47 sts]

Work 5½ inches straight in pattern on these 47 stitches, ending with a row on the right side of the work.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 32 fairly loosely and pattern to end; leave these 15 sts on a second spare needle or a needle holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining 67 sts.
Continue straight in pattern on these 67 sts for 5½ inches ending with same pattern row as the 15 sts on the spare needle.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts on spare needle, then on to the same needle pattern across the last 67 sts [82 sts]

Continue straight in pattern over all stitches until front matches back to
start of armholes. Thread a coloured marker as before. Continue straight in pattern until front measures 22 inches.
With wrong side facing, continue in pattern and shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next, and every following row, 32 times.

Then keep the neck edge straight, and at the same time, when front
matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge).

Right Front:

Work as for the left, reversing all shapings and making
5 buttonholes up the front edge. The first to come about 3 inches
from the lower edge, and the 5th about inch below front of neck shaping - the remainder evenly spaced between.
Mark the position of the buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, pattern 3, cast off 4, pattern to end.
On the next row pattern up to the cast off sts and cast on 4 over those cast off in previous row; pattern to end.

For the right front, your 1st row of the pocket shaping will read:

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 67 sts and slip on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being. With right side
facing, pattern across 32 sts of the remaining pocket lining, then pattern
across 15 sts from main work. [47 sts]

Finish to correspond with left front reversing the instructions in line with the above.

Sleeves:

With No 12 needles and double black bouclet, cast on 62 sts and work 1½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Break off 1 ball of black and join in 1 ball of white bouclet.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 136 sts , taking extra the extra sts into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 15½ inches.

Cast off right across fairly loosely.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, begin at right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 42 sts across back of neck, * turn and rib back, picking up and purling 4 sts from side of neck at end of row; turn and rib back, picking up and knitting 4 sts from
side of neck at end of row; repeat from * 6 times more. [98 sts]

Rib to end of row; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert sleeves neatly between markers.

Face both front edges on wrong side with ribbon, turning under 1 stitch of the knitting as you do so and taking care not to stretch the knitting. Cut holes in the ribbon to correspond with those in the knitting, then oversew around the holes with matching sewing cotton.

The original pattern intended for you to cover button moulds with rounds of single black bouclet in double crochet, drawing crochet
together at back of button. Otherwise use purchased buttons of an appropriate size.
Sew on buttons and press studs - one at neck, the other at lower edge.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, pick up and knit 26 sts down front piece of each pocket slit.
Cast off.
Catch down to main work at corners; catch down pocket linings.

Press all seams.

Materials

Double Knitting: 11 ozs in white;
Bouclet yarn: 13 ozs in black and 11 ozs white.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Five large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

2 press fasteners

11 yards 2 inch wide black ribbon.

Tension

24 stitches to 4 inches over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 35-37 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 25 inches; sleeve seam: 15½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The striking style of the coat is created using the yarn double with black and white together to create a tweed effect.
It is possible to get fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting. You could also substitute with a slightly fluffy yarn - Phildar and Pingouin used to do a slightly fuzzy 4 ply.

If you hate knitting double you might find a loopy tweed DK or worsted yarn which knits to the right tension. But you will need to find it in a solid version to match (because some parts of the pattern are knitted in black bouclet alone) - as well as the toning DK smooth yarn.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. The number of ounces of an obsolete yarn with no yardage provided is of little help.

Whatever you choose - knit a swatch!

TweedCoat2.jpg

October 2014

Coolie Hat

CoolieHat.jpg

An amusing little tweed hat from the 1950s for you to crochet.
It uses the same yarn and technique as the tweed coat for January 2015.

Instructions.

Note: The Bouclet is used double throughout with one ball of white together with one ball of black.

Begin at the centre crown.

Make 4 chain, join into a ring with a slip stitch

1st round: 9 dc through centre of ring, join with a slip stitch
2nd round: 3 ch; * 2 half trebles in 1 dc, 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 3 times more; join with a slip stitch to top of 3 ch
All following half treble rounds are joined as in this round.
3rd round: 1 ch; * 2 dc in 1 htr, 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * 6 times more, join with a slip stitch to top of 1st ch
All following dc rounds are joined as in this round.

4th round: 3 ch; * 2 htr in 1 dc , 1 htr in l dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
5th round: 1 ch;* 2 dc in 1 htr, 2 dc in 2 htr; repeat from * 9 times more.
6th round: 3 ch; * 2 htr in 1 dc , 3 htr in 3 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
7th round:
1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
8th round:
3 ch; * 4 htr in 4 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc ; repeat from * 9 times more.
9th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
10th round:
3 ch, * 5 htr in 5 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc ; repeat from * 9 times more.
11th round:
1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
12th round: 3 ch; * 6 htr in 6 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
13th round:
1 ch;* 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
14th round:
3 ch; *7 htr in 7 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
15th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
16th round: 3 ch; * 8 htr in 8 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
17th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
18th round: 3 ch; * 9 htr in 9 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
19th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
20th round: 3 ch; * 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * all round.
21st round: As 19th round.
22nd round:
As 20th round.
23rd round: As 19th round.

Fasten off.

Brim

Make 100 ch, join into a ring with a slip stitch.

1st round: 100 dc in 100 ch.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th rounds: As 1st round.
5th round: 3 ch, * 1 htr in 1 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 49 times more.
6th round: Lay wire along edge of round just worked and work over the wire with 1 dc in 1 htr all round.
Cut wire allowing it to overlap by about 2 inches.

7th round: 3 ch, * 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * all round, join with a slip stitch.
8th - 11th rounds: As 6th round but
working over wire.
Cut wire leaving about 2 inches.

Fasten off securely.

To Make Up

Sew over bare ends of wire with wool.
Join brim to crown by placing the right sides together and work a row of back stitching g-inch in from edge.
Place hat over a basin and press with warm iron and a damp cloth.

Materials

2 ozs each in black and white of "bouclet" yarn.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A No 10 (3¼mm ) crochet hook
[Editor's note: If you cannot get a 3¼mm hook then you can use 3½mm or equivaent to get the right tension]

Millinery wire

Tension

10dc measures 2 inches

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
htr: half treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The orginal yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The tweed effect of the hat is created using the yarn double with black and white together.
It is possible to find fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting.

However, I think it is quite hard to work with yarn doubled at the best of times. I can only imagine that a bouclé would be even worse, and to crochet like this .... well you would need to be very determined. In defence of the original pattern, I think the bouclet specified was not a very loose loopy yarn; I believe it just has a gentle ripple in the spin.

So given that you have to find a substitute anyway, I would look for some kind of textured yarn which will give the right tension with a single strand - that would be a worsted or Aran weight - bearing in mind that the work is intended to have a tight tension to make a firm fabric suitable for a hat - even though you have some support with the wire.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. I have no yardage information to offer.

Whatever you choose - try out a swatch!

February 2014

Cross Season Jumper

CrossSeason1.jpg CrossSeason2.jpg

I thought this looked like highly wearable jumper with a very flattering neckline. From the picture it looks like it has bracelet length sleeves - which I very much favour - but the instructions imply they are full length; I like the look of the pushed-up sleeves in the photo so much that I think I would knit them shorter. There is shaping through the body but this could be omitted - you would need to cast on 106 (112) instead of 94 (100) and knit straight to the armhole.

The pattern suggests using a violet colour but I envisioned it in chartreuse.

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

‡‡

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 94 (100) stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k10, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, k10.

2nd row: p10, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, p10.

3rd row: p10, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, p10.

4th row: k10, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, k10.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

CrossSeason3.jpg

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 4 inches.
With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 st at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 106 (112) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 14½ (15) inches.

‡‡

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5(5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate rows until 86 (90) stitches remain.
Work straight until back measure 22½ (23) inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of next 4 rows, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 32 (34) stitches.

Front

Work as back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

With right side facing, shape armholes and divide for neck as follows:

Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern 47 (50).
Turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end, taking the 2 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [49 (52) sts]

Continue shaping armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on next and following 4 (5) alternate rows. [44 (46) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front opening measures 2 inches.

With wrong side facing, cast on 10 sts for collar, pattern to end, taking the 10 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [54 (56) sts]

Work straight until outside edge of collar measures 2 inches from the 10 cast-on stitches.
With wrong side facing, cast on a further 5 sts, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Continue straight on the remaining 32 (33) stitches for 2½ inches.
Cast off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 54 (57) sts, pattern to end.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 st at armhole edge on following 5 (6) alernate rows. [44 (46) sts].

Finish to correspond with first shoulder, with reversed shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 (50) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 2(3) sts evenly across last row.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern across as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, k6.

2nd row: p6, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, p6.

3rd row: p6, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, p6.

4th row: k6, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, k6.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern increasing 1 stitch at end of next and every following 8th row until there are 76 (79) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (17) inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 (4) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternat row until 30 (37) sts remain, then at each end of every row untl 14 (15) sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the ridge pattern.
Join collar at centre back neatly with a flat edge-to-edge seam.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew collar neatly along back of neck.
Catch down 2 cast-on stitches at start of neck opening on wrong side.
Press all seams.

Materials

20 (22) ozs. Patons Double Knitting, in Violet.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 35-36 (37-38) inches; length from top of shoulders, 22½ (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 16½ (17) ins.

Abbreviations

Cross2K: knit into back of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Cross2P: purl into front of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2014

Stormcheater

Stormcheater.jpg

Another scarf/hood combination from the 1940s that is the partner of last year's pattern. It has a firm headband to frame the face, and a pocket construction at the back (see photo below) to keep that forties hairdo in good shape. The scarf ties are double thickness.

The Back with elastic casing:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: Slip 1, k1, * wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat the 3rd row 4 times.
8th row: Slip 1, k2tog, wfd;* k1, wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back; repeat from * to the last 3sts; kl, wfd k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd Row 3 times.

12th row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Cast off.

The Head Piece:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:

1st row: K2tog, knit to the last 2sts k2tog.
2nd row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until 68sts remain.
Cast off.

The Border:

Cast on 120sts.
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 11 times; the 2nd row twice; then the 1st and 2nd rows 12 times.
Cast off.

To Make Up the Stormcheater

Press each piece separately on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew the cast on edge of the back to the cast on edge of the head piece.
Commencing at this seam, sew the shaped side edges together for 14½ inches.
Fold back the cast on edge of the border to the centre (the knit row on the wrong side of the work formed by the purl row on the right side of the work); place a roll of cotton wool under this fold then sew the cast on edge to the last purl row before the knit row.
Fold back the cast off edge, pad with cotton wool to form a second roll and sew in position to correspond.
Place the open end of one padded rollover the other open end and sew both ends together.
Sew this end of the roll to the edge of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the other ends of the padded rolls in the same manner and sew to the other side of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the shaped edge of the head piece to the seam of the padded rolls.
Thread elastic through the casing on the back and sew in position at the ends.
Sew the edges of the elastic casing to the seam at the ends of the padded rolls.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 ozs 3ply wool.

One pair No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles.

9½ inches elastic.
Cotton wool for padding.

Tension

Approx. 32sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

October 2013

Fancy Rib Jacket

FancyRibJacket.jpg

This is a lovely 1950s Autumn jacket which is defined as "chunky" though this means "not fine" in modern parlance, as the wool weight is a pretty standard double knitting.
I love this style and always meant to make for myself but have not yet done so - hence it is untested, and the original instructions are available in only one size. The instructions are not intended for a beginner - you need to keep your eye on right and wrong sides, and preserving the button band stitches - but having said that, I think it is fairly clearly explained.

Instructions.

Fancy rib pattern worked as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

These 2 rows form pattern.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 90 stitches loosely and work 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge all along

[Editor's note: Though not clear in the photo, it seems the back of the jacket is knitted plain up to the armholes, whereas the fronts have the pattern over the pockets as well.]

Next row: Purl, increasing 3 sts, evenly across the row [93 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7 inches from lower edge.

With right side facing continue in stocking-stitch, shaping waist as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k26, k2tog, k29; sl1, k1, psso; k26; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: k2tog, k25, k2tog, k27; sl1, k1, psso; k25; k2tog. [81 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing continue shaping as follows:
Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k25; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k29; increase 1 as before; k25; increase in last stitch [85 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k26; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k31; increase 1 as before; k26; increase in last stitch [89 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k27; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k33; increase 1 as before; k27; increase in last stitch [93 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k28; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k35; increase 1 as before; k28; increase in last stitch [97 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch [99 sts]
Work straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and the following 3 alternate rows. [79 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): P9; * purl twice in next stitch, p6; repeat from * to end [89 sts]

Next row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. [147 sts]

With wrong side facing. change to fancy rib pattern, starting with 1st pattern row and work straight until back measure 23½ inches down centre ending with 1st pattern row [89 sts]
With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib over all sts, and shape shoulders by casting off 9 sts at beginning of next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 35 stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 26 sts and work 6 inches in stocking stitch ending with a knit row.
Leave these sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make second pocket in the same way.

Left Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): purl to last 23 sts; k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Change to pattern with button border in stocking stitch and remainder in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): p23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 7 inches, ending with 1st pattern row [67 sts]
With right side facing, change to stocking stitch, inserting pocket as follows:

Next row: K5; increase 1, k4, cast off 26, k20 sl1 purlways, k11.

Next row: P32, pur1 across one set of 26 pocket stitches in place of those cast off; p10 [68 sts]


With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch slipping the centre stitch in border on right side rows throughout, and shape for waist as follows:

Next row: K2tog, k27. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k26. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k25. k2tog, knit to end. [62 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing, continue shaping as follows:

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 25, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 26, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 27, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 28, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to end [71 sts]

Work straight until front measures same as back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 4 alternate rows [61 sts]

Next row: Purl.

Next row: * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11. [85 sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in fancy rib pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): P23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2tog, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Continue decreasing thus inside the 23 border sts on the following 10 alternate rows. Pattern back (1st pattern row). [50sts]

Work a few rows straight in pattern, until back measures same as front ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib keeping stocking-stitch border as before, and shape shoulder by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows - armhole edge.

Leave remaining 23 sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11, purl to end.

Change to pattern as follows (button border in stocking stitch as before):

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 25sts; k2, p23.
2nd row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11; * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2sts; p2.

Repeat these 2 rows for 1½ inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, make double buttonhole in next 2 rows as follows: k4, cast off 3, k4, sl1, k4, cast off 3, k4, work to end and back, casting on 3 sts over those cast off

Finish as for left front reversing all shapings, making another 5 double buttonholes as above at 3-inch intervals.

Your pocket row will read:
k11, sl1, k20, cast off 26, k4, increase 1, k5.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 sts loosely and work 5 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking-stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at end of 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 78 sts.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 19½ inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 40 sts remain; then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press stocking-stitch parts only under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Turn under 2½ inches round each sleeve and slip-hem loosely on wrong side.
Catch down pocket linings to main work.

Now with No 8 needles, k23 border sts. from spare needle at top of right front and work straight on these sts, slipping centre stitch as before until border fits to centre back of neck. Cast off.
Work left front 23 border sts in the same way; join borders at centre back and sew to neck edge.
Turn under half the border sts up to the slipped stitch all round and slip-hem on wrong side.

Oversew round double buttonholes.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

20 ozs Patons Moorland Double Knitting in Cinnamon.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) "Beehive" needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

This rib pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust: 35-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23½ ins; sleeve seam 17 ins.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase.

Abbreviations

Increase 1: by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, according to pattern instructions - or - Increase in next stitch: by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
p3tog: (decrease) purl 3 sts together.

wrn: wool round needle

sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A word on the wool.

Patons Moorland is a double knitting weight yarn which knitted to a fairly standard DK tension.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2013

Easter Baby Bonnet

EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg

This looks like a little Victorian cherub, though the pattern is much later. It uses a combination of smooth and fluffy 4 ply yarns in a relatively simple crochet motif.
I think the bonnet is particularly cute.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.


Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2013

Fair Isle for Spring to wear out when the sun shines

KnitForSpring.jpg

"Carefree and colourful sweater for him uses sparkling motif designs to wear out and about over the week-end when the sun shines" Carefree it may be.. but a double knitting fair-isle for Spring? That's a novel idea. However, I'm sure "a thick sweater to wear on a wet Spring weekend" is also a suitable maxim, so here we are.
[Editor's note: Here we are indeed.... I wrote this at the end of February - and now on March 11th we have sub-zero temperatures and blizzards raging in the South of England (and the Channel Islands). So this sweater choice.... "just perfick" for March.]

The main picture is a low resolution photo that does not quite show the pattern detail to the full; this is because I just had to include the wonderful backdrop to the sweater with record player and vinyl albums. These cool cats are from the early sixties but are listening to 1950s American jazz. You can see more clearly how the pattern looks in the chart at the end.

Instructions

Two sizes are given, with the larger size created by using a larger sized needle. Do check your tension with whatever yarn type you use, as the fair-isle patterning will tend to make the knitted fabric tighter than normal.

Back:

**
Using main colour Charcoal (C), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - for both sizes - cast on 126 stitches and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row: [127 stitches]
Next row: knit.
Next row: purl.

[Editor's note: The original instructions are written out line by line as reproduced below. I have created a chart which you can see at the end of the pattern.]

Change to No 8 (4mm) [7 (4½mm)] needles, join in white (W), and star pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit: 1W; * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: knit: * 1W, 5C, 3W, 1C, 3W, 5C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
4th row: purl: * 6C, 7W, 5C; rep, from * to last stitch, 1C
5th row: knit: * 2C, 4W, 3C, 1W, 3C, 4W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
6th row:: purl: * 3C, (3W, 2C) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
7th row: knit: * 4C, (2W, 1C) 3 times; 2W, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in Nasturtium Red (N).

8th row: purl: * 5N, 3W, 3N, 3W, 4N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.
Break N and rejoin C.

Repeat rows 7 through to 1 inclusive, in that order. (That is, the reverse of what you just knitted).
Break W.
Work 3 rows stocking-stitch in colour C.

Rejoin W and continue as follows:-

19th row: knit: , * 3C, 1W, 2C, repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
20th row: purl: * 2C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
21st row: knit: 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
22nd row: purl: * 4W, 11C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
23rd row: , * 1W, (3C, 4W) twice, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
24th row: purl: * 2W, 2C, 3W, 5C, 3W, 2C, 1 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
25th row: knit: , * (1C, 2W.) twice, 7C, 2W, 1C, 2W.; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in N
26th row: purl: * 2 N, 3W, 9 N, 3W, 1N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.

Break N and rejoin C repeat rows 26 - 19 inclusive in that order (that is, reversed as in previous sequence)
Break W.

Continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: purl.
2nd row: knit.
3rd row: purl.

Rejoin W
4th row: knit: 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break W
5th row:purl.
6th row: knit
7th row: purl.

Rejoin W
8th row: knit: *3C, 1W, 2C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

Repeat the last 8 rows 5 [4 or 5] times more, then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Shape armholes:

Cast off 8 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Rejoin W.

1st row: k2tog W; knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: k2tog; knit: 4C, * 3W,1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last l3 stitches, 3W, 1C, 3W, 4C, k2tog.
4th row: purl:, 5C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 7W, 5C.
5th row: k2tog, knit: 3W, * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, 3W, k2tog.
6th row: purl:, 1C, * 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 5C; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 1C.
7th row: k2tog C, knit: * 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 1C, k2tog C.
Break C and rejoin N.

8th row: purl: 2N, * 3W, 3N, 3W, 9N; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3W, 3N, 3W, 2N.
Break N and rejoin C.

9th row: k2tog, knit: 1W, * (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C, 2W; repeat from * to last 10 stitches, (1C, 2W) twice, 1C, 1W, k2tog.
10th row: purl:, 2W, * (2C, 3W) twice, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 9 stitches, 2C, 3W, 2C, 2W
11th row: k2tog W, knit: * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from
* to last 9 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, k2tog W.
12th row: purl:, 1C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 8 stitches,7W, 1C.
13th row: k2tog, knit: 2W, * 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 1C, 2W, k2tog.
14th row: purl:, 2W, * 3C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, 2W.
15th row: k2tog, knit: * 4C, 1W, 1C; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, k2tog.
Break W

16th row: purl.
17th row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
18th row: purl.
Rejoin W
Repeat the last 18 rows once more.

Next row: k2tog W, knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
Break W.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog C, knit: 1W, * 5 C, 1W; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog C.
Break W

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog , knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Rejoin W
Next row: k2tog, knit: 1C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,
1W, 1C, k2tog.
**

Keeping continuity of pattern continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 47 stitches remain. Pattern back and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back from ** to **.
Pattern back.

Shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, k16, k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first 18 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every knit row until 2 stitches remain.

K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, return to remaining stitches, slip centre 25 stitches, on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 20 stitches, k2tog., pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and C, cast on 56 stitches and work 3 inches k1, p1 rib.

Next row: * k2, knit twice in next stitch, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, knit twice in last stitch. [75 sts]
Next row: purl.

Change to No. 8 [7] needles, join in W and continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: knit: 1C, 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit twice in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, knit twice in last stitch.
4th row: purl.
Join in W

5th row: knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to end.
Break W

6th row: purl.
7th row: knit.
8th row: purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 109 stitches. Work straight until 13 complete patterns and 2 rows of 14th have been done from start.

Now shape top working as for back from to : 55 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Join In W
Next row: k2tog C, knit: * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 3 stitches,
1W, k2tog C.

Keeping continuity of snowflake pattern decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 5 stitches remain. Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join raglan seams on right sleeve, matching patterns carefully.
Join left sleeve raglan at front.
Neck Ribbing: With No 10 needles and main colour C, start at top of left sleeve and with right side facing. Knit 5 sleeve stitches, pick up and Knit 18 stitches down left side of neck, knit centre 25 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 18 stitches up right side of neck, knit 5 sleeve stitches, then knit 47 stitches from back: 118 stitches.
Work 15 rows k1, p1 rib.
Cast off very loosely in rib using a bigger needle.

Join remaining raglan seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Join neck ribbing neatly, then fold in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.

Press all seams, avoiding ribbing.

Materials


18[21]ozs Patons Double Quick Knitting in Charcoal; 5 [5] ozs in White and 1[1] oz Nasturtium.
[Editor's note: You really need very little of this red colour - enough for about 12 rows.]

Pair each No 8 [7] (4mm []), and No 10 [10] (3¼mm []).

Tension

24sts to 4 ins using No 8 needles for the smaller size, and 22½ sts to 4 ins using No 7 needles for the larger size, over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 38-40 (41-43)inches.

Length from top of shoulders, 25 (28 or 25½) ins;
sleeve seam, 18½(19½) ins.

Instructions for larger size given in brackets [bold blue]. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size indicate that any standard UK double knitting would work; in the US this yarn weight is probably considered a light worsted.
It's worth checking your tension as, even in the UK, the term double knitting covers a multitude of subtle variations.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.



Snowflake Pattern Chart

Chart of the first pattern section as given for the Back. This shows the pattern detail not fully visible in the main photo.

SnowflakeChart.jpg



Cool Cats and their American Jazz

From the original photo I can just make out the records in the foreground - the ones on the sofa behind the models defeat me...

DukeJordanTrio.jpg KrupaAndRich.jpg

The Duke Jordan Trio look like they are on the turntable (if not our model's companion is bending the vinyl in the sleeve to an ill-advised angle). The album was recorded on January 28th 1954. Tracks are: Jordu, Scotch Blues, Wait And See, Darn That Dream, Embraceable You, Just One Of Those Things, They Can't Take That Away From Me, and, Confirmation.
Next up for consideration (our model is reading the sleeve notes) is "Krupa and Rich" - both drummers - with an eponymous recording from 1956.
Examples of the music can be found on You Tube.



The record player

It has to be a Dansette doesn't it?
I have to admit I was totally ignorant about this famous brand until very recently. I can't exactly say they were before my time, as they were manufactured between 1952 and 1969, and we did have a record player in that era which was likely to have been a Dansette, but I cannot remember it well enough to say one way or the other.
As to the model in the picture - it looks a bit like the "Bermuda" shown on this fabulous site, though there are some differences. It seems likely as Julie says: "The Dansette Bermuda is by far the model we have the most of in all colours".

February 2013

Heirloom shawl

HeirloomShawlC.jpg

A lace baby shawl made in a 3 ply fingering weight, which makes it a bit more feasible to contemplate as a viable project than the traditional 2 ply, while yet remaining fine and lacey. Added to that, it is made up in sections, rather than a single piece which makes it easier to handle, with all the decreasing lace stitches.

Instructions

The shawl is made in 5 pieces: first a centre square, and then 4 mitred borders that are sewn on each side of the centre.

Centre Square

With No 8 needles, cast on 162 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch), sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: k1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch); repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows until work measures 21 inches.
Cast off.

Borders (make 4)

With No 9 needles, cast on 206 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: knit.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows twice more [200 sts].

Change to pattern as follows:-

1st row: p2tog, p4, k2tog, wrn, p2, * (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k 1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2, p2tog
2nd row: k 5, p2, k2, * p7, (k1, p3)twice, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k3.
3rd row: p2tog, p3, wfd, SL1, k1, psso, p2, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p1, p2tog.
4th row: k 4, p2, k2, * p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k2.
5th row: p2tog, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, ,k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; rep, from * 5 times more, p2tog.
6th row: k 3, p2, k 2, * p9, k l, (p1,k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
7th row: p2tog, p1, * wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p1, p2tog.
8th row: k2, p2, k2, * p11, k1, p11, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
9th row:
p2tog, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, * k9, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 5 times more, p2tog.
10th row: k1, p2, * k2, p25, k2, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
11th row: k2tog, k1, * p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3,
wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, k l, k2tog.
12th row: * p2, k2, p6, k1, p11, k1, p6, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2.
13th row: k2tog, * p2, (k1, wlfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog
14th row: * p1, k2, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, p7, k2, p1; repeat from * to end.
15th row: p2tog, p1, * k1, wfd, k 3, wfd., kl, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, kl, pl, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, kI, psso, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, pl, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p1, p2tog
16th row: * k 2, p8, k1, (p2, kl) twice, p8, k2, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, p8, k1,(p2, k1) twice, p8, k2.
17th row: p2tog, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, at. 1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2tog.
18th row: k1, * p9, k1,(p1, k1) twice, p9, k2,
p2, k2; repeat from * 4 times more, p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k1.
19th row: k2tog, wfd., k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * p1, sl1, k2tog,
psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k2tog.
20th row: p11, * k 1, p11, k 2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, p11.
21st row: k2tog, k8, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k9; repeat from * 4 times more, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k8, k2tog.
22nd row: p10, * p13, k2, p2, k2, p12; repeat from * 4 times more, p11.
23rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, * k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd., k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog.
24th row: p15, * k l, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k1, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, p4.
25th row: k2tog, k7, p1, * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k7, k 2tog.
26th row: p8, k1, * p3, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k1, p3, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p8.
27th row: k2tog, k6, p1, * k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1. p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k6, k2tog.
28th row: p7, k1, * p2, k1, p8, k2, p2, k2,
p8, k1, p2, kl; repeat from * ending p7.
29th row: k2tog, k5, p1, * k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, pl; repeat from * 4 times more, k5, k2tog.
30th row: p6, k1, * p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p6.
31st row: k2tog, k4, p1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, s1, k2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k4, k2tog.
32nd row: p5, k1, * p11, k2, p2, k2, p11, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p5.
33rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd., sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog.
34th row: p17, * k2, p2, k2, p25; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p2, k2, p17.
35th row: k2tog, k3, * wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k l; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, k2tog.
36th row: p4, * p5, k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6 k1, p6; rep, from * 4 times more, p3.

Cast off 131 sts.

Make 3 more pieces the same.

To Make Up

Pin parts out and press under a damp cloth.
Join borders very neatly to centre square, then join corners of border. Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3 ply Patons Baby Wool.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

In stocking stitch: 26 stitches. and 34 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles.
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

32 inches square.

Abbreviations

wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.


sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).


k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

The original pattern calls for Patons "Beehive" which is no longer available but Patons do a range of 3 ply baby wools.

Patons Dreamtime Fairytale is 100% wool available in 6 pastel shades; wash at 30°; 50g ball, 230m/252 yards.

They also make Fairytale 3 ply (not "Dreamtime"), which is a mix of acrylic and nylon in white only. Maybe not so perfect for an heirloom shawl.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2013

Fair-Isle Hooded Scarf

HoodedScarf3.jpg

A lovely warm idea that has never lost its popularity: a scarf/hood combination. This has an interesting construction with the scarf being double sided, and the hood being more a like a pocket with the intention that it should form soft folds when worn. [I'm more used to a pixie hood type design with a centre back seam].

Hood Scarf:

Using the main colour wool (MC) cast on 108 sts.

1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 9 times more.

** Join in the first contrast (B) and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).



Commencing with the 3rd, row proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off contrast B.

1st row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
3rd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice.

Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures 40 inches
from the beginning, ending on the wrong side of the work.
Repeat from ** to ** 3 times.

Work 18 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.
Press on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Fold the scarf in half lengthways. Sew up the seam for 16 inches, leave 16 inches open to form the hood, sew up the remainder of the seam.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a tube which you press flat to make a double thickness scarf, and the hood is formed by leaving the tube open, so the hood is single thickness.]

Hood Border:

Work a border along one 16 inch side of the hood opening as follows:
With the wrong side of the work facing, using the Main Colour wool and commencing 2 inches from the seam, pick up and knit 108 sts. evenly along the next 12 inches (ending 2 inches from the other seam).
[Editor's note: I know - it seems like you are knitting on the wrong side - but the border is folded back - so it's all OK.]

Next row (right side): Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Join in the second contrast B and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart, proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).

Commencing with the 3rd row, proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off first contrast (B)
Next row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Proceed as follows:
Next row: Slip 1, kl, * pl, k.l, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the this row once.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up the Scarf.

Sew the ends of the scarf together on the wrong side.
Place the corners of the border to the seam and sew the edges of the border to the 2-inch openings.
Turn back the border and catch-stitch in the centre to hold the border in position.
Using a No 12 Crochet Hook and main shade with the right side of the work facing, work 1 row of double crochet evenly along the other 16 inch side of the hood opening. Using the coloured wools make a mixed fringe at the ends of the scarf.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3ply in main shade plus "medium-sized" balls in each of four contrast colours eg blue, yellow, green and pink.

One pair No 9 (3¾ mm) knitting needles.
One No. 12 (2½ mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Approx. 30sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Width round face edge is 16 inches.
Length of scarf (excluding fringe) is 48 inches.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

November 2012

Reindeer jacket (for a small boy...or girl)

Florence.jpg

This looks so cute and would make a lovely Christmas cardigan for a toddler. The fair-isle design is not too challenging and hopefully you have plenty of time to knit for this year's festivities.
One size only I'm afraid, but you could increase it slightly by increasing the yarn weight and needle size.

This was beautifully knitted by Sara for her daughter, who also models it. The original (boy) model seen after the pattern instructions.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, kl st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Chart C

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Chart D

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

October 2012

Cloche Cap

ClocheCap.jpg

Charming retro hat with decorative band and buckle.

I learned from the Debbie Bliss Magazine Autumn/Winter 2012 that one of my favourite designers, Louisa Harding, has been facing up, with her husband, to his challenge of being treated for lymphoma. In appreciation for the help of Macmillan nurses, Louisa is taking part in Macmillan's Nepal Hiking Challenge and seems well on her way to raising her goal of £5000.
To help achieve the target She has put together a series of seven knitting patterns called 'Himalayan Hiking Hats'. She will have her photo taken wearing each one of the hats on the first 6 days of the trek. The seventh hat pattern in the series will be knitted 'en route' and photographed on the 7th (last) trekking day.
Download the hat patterns from her site and show your support by sending a donation.

Instructions.

The main hat is knitted in reverse stocking stitch, with the band in garter stitch. The design is intended for a textured yarn.

Crown

Using the 5 No 10 needles, cast on 8 stitches, placing 2 stitches on each of 4 needles.

1st (and every alternate) round: purl
2nd round: knit twice into every stitch. [16 sts]
4th round: * k1 knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [24 sts]
Mark end of round with a contrast thread, or stitch marker.

6th round: * k2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [32 sts]
8th round: * k3, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [40 sts]

Continue increasing 8 stitches thus on every alternate round until there are 36 stitches on each needle. [144 stitches]
Work 7 rounds straight.

Next round: * k16, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [136 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k15, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [128 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k14, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [120 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k13, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [112 sts]
Work 5 rounds straight.

Cast off.

Band

Cast on 16 stitches, and work a strip in garter-stitch (every row knit) 22 inches long - or length required to fit round head with 3 inches to spare. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off. This forms a point.
Using the wool double, crochet all round the outer edge of the buckle to cover.
[Editor's note: I think this might be trickier than it sounds - either due to the bouclé nature of the yarn or the thickness of the hook you'd need to use. I might be tempted to try a blanket or button-hole stitch around the buckle using the yarn single and a large-eyed darning needle.]

Stitch the cast-on edge of the band to the buckle, then slot the shaped end through the buckle pulling it through until the band fits round the head snugly.
[Editor's note: Again a slight inconsistency in the instructions and the photo here. I don't think it matters if you have a buckle with or without a tongue. If the latter, arrange the size you need and just push the tongue through the knitting. You should catch stitch the band in place, ensuring that it looks as though the end is free, that is, as if you had not stitched it.]

To Make Up

Pin band in position evenly all round crown noting that the purl side of the crown is the right side.
Sew neatly in position stretching band slightly.
Press seam and crown very lightly under a damp cloth using a rolled towel inside hat to keep the shape.

Materials

3 ozs Patons Rimple double knitting in colour Harlequin 1572.

A set of five of No 10 (3¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

A 2½ inch buckle.

Crochet hook.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

An average hat size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

Patons Rimple was a softly textured bouclé yarn, (97% wool, 3% nylon), which knitted to a double knitting tension.

This hat is knitted on finer needles than usual so the knitted fabric will be denser and stiffer, giving the hat more body.

There are a few double knitting bouclé yarns available though many tend to be chunky weight. Debbie Bliss seems to have discontinued the Cashmerino Astrakhan but you can still obtain it at some outlets on the internet (and often discounted). Rowan have recently brought out a British Sheep Breeds "fine" bouclé but this still seems to knit up to a chunkier tension. You can try and obtain the right tension with finer needles - and I think this would produce an excellent knitted fabric for the hat - but be warned that knitting bouclé tightly on small needles is very hard work.

I cannot supply the yardage of Rimple, and can only guess that "Harlequin" was a multi-coloured tweed.

January 2012

Isobel's Little Blanket

IsobelsBlanket.jpg

This is small blanket or cot cover made from 12 crochet squares in chunky yarn (so quick to make). It's based the usual granny-square principle, but a very pretty example of it incorporating the central flower motif.

Instructions

There are a couple of new stitches used in this pattern, as well as basic chain, dc, and treble. There is a "cluster" used in making the central flower, and crab stitch for the edging.

Make cluster:

Working all into the same stitch, **yoh, draw through loop **; repeat from ** to ** 4 times (9 loops on hook); yoh, draw loop through all loops on hook; yoh, draw loop through stitch on hook.
[Editor's note: This last stitch is just "1 chain".]

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right. It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

Motif (make 12)

Starting at the centre of the square: using 7mm hook and first contrast, (plum), make 6ch and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
2nd round: **1 cluster in first dc, 3ch; 1 cluster in next dc, 1ch **; repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first st.
Change to second contrast (cream).
3rd round: Insert hook in first 3-chain space and make 2 chain for first treble; **2tr in same space, 3ch; 3tr in same space, 1ch; 3tr in next 1-chain space, 1ch; 1tr in next 3-chain space, ** repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, omitting the very last tr in the repeated sequence, and join with a slip stitch to top of first chains.
Change to third contrast (lime).
4th round: 1 dc **1dc over each of next 3tr, 3dc into next 3-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space;**. Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.

Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

IsobelsBlanket_detail.jpg

To Make Up

Make 12 squares altogether.

With 7mm hook and 3rd contrast (lime), join 2 squares together; hold right sides together and slip stitch through the back loop of each dc, leaving the front loops exposed as a decorative ridge on the right side (see photos).
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant here, try experimenting. There is a loop on each side of a crochet stitch; usually when placing a stitch on top on the next row, you push your hook through both loops, but for some decorative sts, you are asked to use either only the back or only the front loops in order to create a ridge, Whatever you end up doing, just make sure you are consistent, so that you get a nice consistent pattern emerging.]

Join 3 squares in a row, then join the 4 rows together.

Finally, using first contrast (plum) and right side facing, work a row of dc all around the blanket, and work 2 or 3sts into the 4 corner sts, to make it curve properly. Then, keeping the right side facing you, change to a 6mm hook and go back the way you came, working one row of crab stitch right to left.

Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of chunky in each of first and second contrast and 1 ball in third contrast.


One No 2 (7mm) and one No 4 (6mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each square is intended to measure 4¾ inches.

Size matters

To fit cot, pram, or Moses basket.

Abbreviations

yoh: yarn over hook.
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original yarn produces a tension of 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch. You can substitute an Aran weight yarn worked double throughout, though this is less easy to work with for crochet patterns.

I used Patons Pompero a chunky yarn, knitting to a tension of 16sts x 22 rows to 4 ins, which is thinner, though I used a 7mm hook with it.

Result of my yarn choice is a smaller blanket, requiring only one ball in each colour.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch,
(a picture painting a thousand words and so on).

December 2011

Sideways Stash Socks

HoneycombBedsocks.jpg

Father George: so fond of his bedsocks that they get worn out. [Since he is not bedridden I can only surmise he does not restrict their use to the bedroom!] Hence - by request - here are some more.

The patterned section of the sock is knitted sideways using a variation of a honeycomb stitch; it's an opportunity to use up really small amounts of double knitting yarn. I rotated 4 contrast colours but you could use a different colour for every set of rows; the key is to keep some consistency in the main colour.

Instructions.

The first section of these socks is knitted sideways making a "T" shape where the upright of the "T" is the upper foot, and the cross bar curls around the leg to form the cuff, meeting at the back seam.
The second section knits the heel and then sole of the sock. These two sections are worked on 2 needles.
Then for the toe, you pick up the stitches from the first 2 sections, and knit in the round on 4 needles, and finally you pick up stitches at the top of the sock and knit the welt, also in the round.

First section (knit 2)

Starting at the back leg seam, with main shade (M) cast on 23 sts on 2 needles and knit one row. Commence pattern.

Join in contrasts (C1, C2 etc):
1st row: Using C1, p3 * sl1, p3; repeat from * to end of row
2nd row: Using C1, k3 * sl1, k3; repeat from * to end of row
3rd row: As first row.
4th row: As second row.
5th row: Using main shade (M) purl across all sts.
6th row: Using C2, k1, sl1, * k3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
7th row: Using C2, p1, sl1, * p3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
8th row: As 6th row.
9th row: As 7th row.
10th row: Using main shade (M) knit across all sts.

Repeat rows 1-10 using different contrasts, once more.

Next row(wrong side facing): Cast on 40 sts, and then work across them and all sts, as for 1st row of pattern. [63sts]
[Editor's note: If you want a shorter or longer foot length cast on more or fewer stitches here. Reduce or add sts in multiples of 4, which is about ¾ of an inch]

Continue to work the pattern on these 63 sts, working rows 1-10 three times, and then rows 1-4.

Next row(wrong side facing): Using main shade, cast off 40 sts, and purl across remainder. [23sts]

Continue to work the pattern on these 23 sts, working rows 6-10, then rows 1-10 once, times, and then rows 1-4.
Cast off purlwise using main shade (centre back seam).

Second section (heel and sole).

The remainder of the socks are worked entirely in the main shade.

For the heel: with right side of the first section facing, oriented like an upside down "T" pick up 11 sts from each side of the instep:

Pick up and knit 11 sts from the left side first, ending at the cast on edge (which will be the centre back, and then turn the work over and bend round the second side, and pick up 11sts from the right side. The sock cuff now forms a circle with the back seams together, but not yet sewn.

Turn and purl 1 row across these 22 sts.

Next row(right side facing): * Sl1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more.

Turn the heel:

Next row: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.

Continue to work short rows and decrease in this way until all sts have been incorporated. [14sts].

Next row(right side facing): Sl1, k13, pick up and knit 13 sts down side of heel. Turn.
Next row: P27, pick up and purl 13 sts down other side of heel. Turn.

Now work the instep decreases and sole:

Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1. Turn.
Next row: Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 22 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you want to make the sock for a narrower foot circumference then decrease a few more sts here. About 6 sts for an inch.]

Continue to work a further 50 rows to make the sole - upper and lower foot sections should be about the same length.
[Editor's note: if you altered the sock length by casting on more of fewer than 40 sts, then adjust the number of rows you knit here. For every 4 sts different in the first section, allow 5 rows difference in the sole.]

Toe

Now we move to working in the round.

Knit 11 sts on first double-pointed needle, 11sts on second, then with right side facing, using third needle, pick up and knit 24 sts across the toe edge of the first section.
Complete the round, knitting 11 sts from first needle then 11 sts from second. Knit one more round.

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1. Complete the round by knitting the 11 sts on each of the first and second needles. [44 sts]

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1; on first needle, k1, sl1, k1 psso; knit to end; on second needle, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16sts remain.
Slip the sts from the second needle on to the first and graft the sts together with those on the third needle.

Making up

Sew seams on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Using double pointed needles and main shade, pick up 60-66 sts round top of sock and knit a k3/p3 rib for about 8 rows (or as long as you want), to form the welt. Cast off loosely.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of double knitting yarn, and a variety of left over DK colours.

One pair and one set of four No 8 (4mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

22 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (olive).
C are contrasts.

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used Phildar Oxygene in olive for the main colour, and a 4 other colours for the contrast - you could have every colour change (15 colours) different if you wanted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Fifties Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The third (and final) fair-isle design for November is a 1950s or early 60s cardigan in a double knitting weight yarn. No clues as to the original colour scheme here, and although for today it would seem appropriate to go with the grey palette, I am sure the original would have been more colourful.

Instructions

The Back and Fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Back and Fronts:

Using No. 10 (3¼mm) needles and light colour, cast on 146 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ ins.
Next row (wrong side): Rib 9; (increase in next stitch, rib 15) 8 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [155 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl
3rd row: K39, m1, k1, m1, k75, m1, kl, m1, k39.
4th row: Purl
5th and 6th rows: As 1st and 2nd
7th row: K40, m1, k1, m1, k77, m1, k1, m1, k40.
8th row: Purl
9th and 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd
11th row: K41, m1, k1, m1, k79, m1, k1, m1, k41.
12th row: Purl
13th and 14th rows: As 1st and 2nd

Continue increasing in this manner on next and every following 4th row until there are 183 sts.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 11½ ins, from beginning, finishing at end of a knit row.

Next row: P7, (increase in next stitch p12) 13 times, increase in next stitch, purlto end. [197 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 from Chart (odd rows knit, even rows purl), working bracketed repeat 7 times across row and odd stitch at end of
knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on Chart throughout.

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (17th row of chart): Pattern 44 cast, off 10, pattern 88 (there now being 89 sts. on needle after cast-off); cast off 10, pattern to end.
[Editors note: So you have 3 groups of sts on the needle - 44 then 89 then 44]

Proceed on first group of 44 sts. for first front as follows:

Keeping pattern correct by working rows 18 to 30 inclusive of Chart, shape armhole by decreasing 1 st. at armhole edge on next and every alternate row until 39 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows, thus completing pattern from Chart.

Using darker colour for remainder of front, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5 ins, from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at front edge.

Shape neck: by casting off 4 sts. at beg. of next row.
Decrease 1 st. at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 30 sts. remain.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 7 ins, from beg. of armhole shaping, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next and every alt, row until all sts. are cast off.

Rejoin wool to next group of 89 sts. and proceed for Back as follows:

Keeping pattern correct from Chart, shape armholes by decreasing 1 st at both ends of next and every alternate row until 81sts remain. Continue on these sts. until work matches first front up to shoulder shaping.
Shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next 6 rows.
Cast off all remaining sts.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of 44 sts. and complete to match first front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No. 10 needles and Light, cast on 50 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 inches.
Next row: Rib 5; (increase in the next stitch, rib 9) 4 times; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [55 sts]

Change to No. 7 needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 st. at both ends of 5th and every following 9th row until there are 73 sts.
Continue on these sts until work measures 15½ ins, from beginning finishing at the end of a knit row.

Next row: P3; (increase in the next stitch, p5) 11times; increase in the next stitch; purl to end. [85 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 inclusive from the chart, noting that bracketed repeat is worked 3 times across row, and odd st. at end of knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on chart throughout.

Keeping pattern correct from chart until 30th row of chart has been completed, and working remainder of sleeve in dark colour, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 43 sts remain, and then on every alternate row until 33 sts remain, and then on every following 3rd row until 29 sts remain.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Right Front Band:

Using No. 10 needles and light colour, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: K2; (p1, kl) 4 times; kl.
2nd row: (kl, p1) 5 times; kl.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row (make buttonhole): Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
6th row: Rib 4, cast on 3, rib to end.

Continue in rib working a buttonhole as on 5th and 6th rows on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole until 5 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Break off light colour and join in dark.
Still working buttonholes on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole as before, continue in Dark until 7 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Work 16 more rows.
Slip stitches on to a stitch holder.

Left Front Band:

Omitting buttonholes, work to match Right Front Band.

Neckband:

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulders of Back and Fronts.
Slip stitches from top of Right Front Band on to No 10 needle, with right side of work facing, using dark colour, k2, (p1, kl) 4 times, p1 across these sts., using same needle, knit up 71 sts round neck, slip sts. from top of Left Front Band on to No 10 needle, (p1, k1) 5 times across these sts, kl. [93 sts]

Next row: * k1, p1, rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: k2, * p1, kl, repeat, from * to last stitch kl.

Work 3 more rows in rib.
Make buttonhole on next 2 rows.
Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting k1/p1 rib, with wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges.
Omitting k1/p1 rib, press each piece very lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

"In order to preserve the lovely crepe appearance of Totem fabrics, these must be pressed very lightly as over-pressing will spoil the appearance of the finished fabric."

Using a flat seam for k1/p1 rib, and a back-stitch seam for remainder, join sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position. Flat stitch front bands into position.
Attach buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

12 oz in light colour and 6 oz in dark colour in double knitting yarn.

[Editors note: 1oz = 28g.
See "a word on the wool".]

Two No 10 (3¼mm) and two No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

21sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 34-36 inch bust. Length from shoulder to lower edge, 21¼ ins. Sleeve seam, 18 ins.

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
m1p: make one st by picking up loop between sts and purl into back of it.
kb: knit into back of stitch
pb: purl into back of stitch
tog: together
tbl: through back loops
inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch
dec:decrease by working 2 sts. together

"Stranding" in Fair Isle

In working designs using two or more colours, you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
Do not strand colours over more than 5 sts. When a loose thread must pass over more than 5 sts. weave it over and under the colour in use at centre point of the sts. it passes over.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem, or Moorland which are
double knitting, yarns. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

12oz is about 7 x 50g balls and 6oz is about 4 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in a small size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Ski Slope Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The second nordic-style sweater for November in a slightly lighter weight yarn. Like the previous design it has a straight inset sleeve, as well as the bright ("modern") colour combination of the 1980s. The pattern includes instructions for plain leg warmers.

Instructions

This pattern uses 3 familiar stitch types:

Double Rib: repeated sequence of k2, p2 rib.
Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row.
Fair-isle stocking stitch, following the chart.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 86 / 90 / 94 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and stocking stitch, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [101/ 105/ 109 sts]. Continue joining in contrast (R) for dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as per the lower section of chart.
When work measures approximately 16¾ inches, change to No 6 (5mm) needles and beg the fair-isle motifs. When work measures 18 inches, shape the armholes by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When the fair-isle motif is complete, change back to No 7 needles and continue in dotted fair-isle until work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 8 at the beginning of the next 2 rows (all sizes).

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes), knit 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn leaving the remaining sts unworked but still on the needle to pick up in a moment, .
Purl back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts.

Return to the sts still on the needle for the neck and left side. Place the centre 43 sts on a stitch holder for the back neck, and then rejoin yarn to the remaining sts and knit 1 row.

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes) purlwise, purl 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn, knit back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts purlwise.

Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 90 / 94 / 98 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as for the back, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [105/ 109 / 113 sts].
Change to No 6 (5mm) needles when you work the fair-isle motifs just as you did on the back section.

When work measures 18 inches (same as back to armhole), shape the armholes by casting off 8 / 9 / 10 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When work measures 25½ / 26 / 26½ inches, shape neck:
leave centre 23 sts on spare needle and continue each side separately, casting off at neck edge on every alternate row as follows: 3 sts (once), 2 sts (twice) and 1 st (3 times) [23 / 24 / 25 sts].

When work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches, work shoulder shaping as you did for the back, casting off at armhole edge on every alternate row as follows: 8 sts (twice), 7 / 8 / 9 sts (once).

Sleeves:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 54 / 58 / 62 sts work 3½ inches in double rib.

Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle, increasing 17 sts evenly across first row [71 / 75 / 79 sts].

Increase 1 st at each end of every 8th row 9 times, [89 / 93 / 97 sts]. When work measures approximately 11½ / 12½ / 13½ inches, . (11 change to No 6 needles and work the fair-isle motifs.

Cast off when you have completed the second border pattern, before you start the dotted fair-isle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

Stitch one shoulder seam. Using No 9 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 98 / 102 / 106 sts evenly round neck. Work inches in double rib.
Cast off.

Stitch second shoulder seam and neck border seam.

Sew in sleeves.

Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Materials

13/14/15 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 4/5/6 balls contrast colour (red)/

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

18½sts and 21 rows to 4 ins using No 7 needles over dotted fair-isle stocking stitch (lower section of chart).

Size matters

The sweater has instructions for 3 sizes, which are intended to be for men or women as follows: man's to fit chest: 40/42/44 inches; woman's to fit: 34/36/38 inches (size 12/14/16 UK size).

Actual size seems to be 43/45½/47 inches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Pingouin Monsieur, or Sport yarn.

It was a synthetic Aran-type yarn knitting to a tension of 17sts and 23 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Charts:

This is the main chart showing the fair-isle design described in the pattern. It leaves a lot to work out yourself, showing the centre point and allowing you to work our where to start your row for each of the sizes.

Working it out yourself is made more difficult since the main panel pattern is a 34 stitch repeat, while the border above and below is a 6 stitch pattern repeat like the dotted body pattern. You can match up your first border with the dots, and use the chart below to see where to start and end your main panel pattern. Then match your second border spacing it the same as the first one.
This is the chart marked with start and end points for the back showing the 3 sizes, and the 34 stitch repeat. The front has 4 extra stitches up to the amhholes, so start 2 sts further out for the front.

This is a similar chart for the sleeve marking with start and end points for the 3 sizes.

[Editor's note: I worked out and drew the charts myself, and made lots of trivial errors before I was satisfied that they were right. So if you are having difficulty with the charts, or if you think there may be a mistake, please do let me know.]



Legwarmers

The legwarmers are worked in rib throughout.

Instructions

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade, cast on 62sts, and work in double rib for 4¾ inches.
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue until work measures 16½ inches.
Change back to No 11 needles and contrast colour, and work a further 2 inches.

Cast off loosely.

[Editor's note: You are working from the ankle upwards; you cast on for the bottom of the item and cast off at the top, so it needs to be loose.]

Stitch the seam using a flat seam technique.

Work a second legwarmer in the same way.

Materials

4 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 1 ball contrast colour (red)

Pair each No 11 (3mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

November 2011

Fashionable Fair-Isle

FamilyFairIsle.jpg

My title refers to the current season's fashion for nordic style sweaters - snowflake, as well as (astonishing to me) reindeer. This sweater's shape betrays its original design era, but that does make it simple to construct - and wear. Update to better reflect the current themes by choosing monochrome colour schemes, using black or greys with cream.
"Traditional motifs in cream make striking winter sweaters; simple easy styling, with straight necklines and drop shoulders, is easy to knit in thick soft yarn on big needles."

Instructions

T-shaped chunky sweater with simple snowflake pattern worked from the charts.

Back and Front alike:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 47 / 51 / 55 / 59 / 63 / 65 / 71 / 73 / 77 sts and work in K1/P1 rib for 2½ / / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / / 3½ inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row (wrong side): Rib 3 / 3 / 5 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6; m1; * rib 8 / 9 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 11 / 12 / 9 / 13; m1; repeat from * to last 4 / 3 / 5 / 5 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 5 / 6 sts; rib to end. [53 / 57 / 61 / 65 / 69 / 71 / 77 / 81 / 83 sts].

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until work measures 13½ / 14½ / 16 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 17½ / 18½ / 19½ inches, ending with a purl row.

1st to 3rd size: Join in contrast colour and work 2 rows.

All sizes:
Next row: Using main shade, knit.
Next row: Using main shade, purl 2 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3, ml; * purl 7 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 9 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 7, ml; rep from * to last 2 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 sts, purl to end. [61 / 65 / 69 / 73 / 77 / 81 / 87 / 91 / 95 sts]

1st to 3rd size: Work rows 1 to 24 from chart A, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 times across and working the first 0 / 2 / 4 sts and last 1 / 3 / 5 sts on knit rows and first 1 / 3 / 5 sts and last 0 / 2 / 4 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart A

4th to 9th size: Work rows 1 to 36 from chart B, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 times across and working first 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts and last 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts on knit rows and first 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts and last 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart B

All sizes: Break main shade, and complete in contrast.

Next 2 rows: Knit.

Next row: K3 / 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 5 / 4 / 2 / 4, k2tog, * k2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 / 2 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 5 / 3 / 6 sts, knit to end. [47 / 49 / 53 / 55 / 61 / 63 / 67 / 69 / 73 sts]

Next row: Knit

Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade cast on 25 / 27 / 27 / 29 / 29 / 31 / 31 / 33 / 33 sts and work in rib as on body sections for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by inc 1 stitch at each end of 3rd / 3rd / next / 7th / next / 5th / 3rd / 9th / 5th and every following 4th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 4th / 4th / 4th row until there are 51 / 51 / 55 / 55 / 59 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 69 sts.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins, ending with a purl row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting garter stitch and ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

When making up a chunky garment it may be easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing.
If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 30 inch lengths and a large needle, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join shoulder seams leaving 7 / / 8 / 9 / 9½ / / 10 / 10½ / 10½ ins open at centre for neck opening.
Join side seams leaving 7 / 7 / 7½ / / 8 / 8 / 9 / 9 / 9½ inches free for armholes.
Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

8 / 8 / 9 / 11 / 11 / 13 / 13 / 14 / 14 x 50g balls in main shade and 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 balls contrast colour.

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 inches; (66 / 71 / 76 / 81 / 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107 cm).
Length from top of shoulders: 20½ / 21½ / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 26½ / 27½ / 28½ ins; (52 / 54 / 58 / 61 / 63 / 66 / 67 / 70 / 72 cm).
Sleeve seam, 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins; (36 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 48 / 48 / 49 / 51 / 51 cm).

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which was a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.

A good substitute in texture and general ethos, might be Rowan's British sheep breeds chunky, which is specified as knitting to a tension of 13sts x 18 rows but on 7mm needles; it is available in a good range of monochrome colours which suit the fashion for the current take on fair-isle. Try a swatch with 6mm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

FamilyFairIsle2.jpg

September 2011

Catkin Hoodie

A pattern from the mid 1970s, knitted in a bouclé wool called Jaeger Catkin. As it was a speciality wool, I decided to splash out and buy the recommended stuff to get the right effect. Originally, I "improved" the pattern by making bell shaped sleeves, which, I seem to remember, were highly fashionable at the time. I wore it like this, day after day throughout my year in Southampton University in 1977. In the 1980s, I unravelled the sleeves and reknitted them straight.... I can only assume I wore it again at that time.
Although I can still just squeeze into this sweater, it is really too small for me now - which some may consider a Good Thing - but I still love it.

Instructions.

The sleeves and yoke of this tunic are knitted from cuff to cuff and the back and front (knitted in the usual vertical manner) are sewn onto it at the armhole.

Back and Front alike.

Work 2 pieces as follows:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 65 [69 : 73 : 77] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit). Change to No 5 needles, and beginning with a knit row work 6 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Shaping:

Next row: K12 [13 : 13 : 14], k2tog tbl, knit to the last 14 [15 : 15 : 16]; k2tog; knit to end.
Work 17 rows in stocking stitch.
Rep the last 18 rows once more. 61 [65 : 69 : 73] sts.
Cont in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures 18½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Cast off.

Left Sleeve and Yoke

** Using No 8 needles and main shade (M), cast on 57 [61 : 61 : 65] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch. Break off M. Change to No 5 needles, and join in contrast colour (C). Beginning with a knit row continue in stocking stitch, until sleeve measures 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Place coloured marker at each end of last row.

Work a further 8 [8 : 10 : 10] rows in stocking stitch.


Shape shoulder:

Next row: K28 [30 : 30 : 32], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k28 [30 : 30 : 32]

Work 9 [9 : 11 : 11] rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: K29 [31 : 31 : 33], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k29 [31 : 31 : 33]. {61 [65 : 65 : 69] sts}

Work 13 [15 : 15 : 17] rows in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
**

Divide for neck:

Next row: K30 [32 : 32 : 34], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 15 [16 : 16 : 17] rows. Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining 21 [23 : 23 : 25] sts. Work a further 12 [12 : 12 : 14] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles, join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

Right Sleeve and Yoke

Work as given for left sleeve and yoke from ** to **.

Divide for neck:

Next row: K21 [23 : 23 : 25], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 11 [11 : 11 : 13] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles. Join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and work 16 [17 : 17 : 18] rows. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press the sleeve pieces very lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron on wrong side, omitting the 9 st borders. Join centre back yoke seam.

Neck border:
Using No 8 needles and M, with right side of work facing, beginning at the right front border, knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along right front, knit up one st from corner, (marking this stitch with coloured thread), knit across 10 sts from holder up right side, knit 18 [22 : 22 : 24] sts along back, knit across 10 sts from holder down left side, knit up one st from corner, (mark ing this stitch with coloured thread), then knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along left front. {58 [66 : 66 : 70] sts}
Work 4 rows in garter stitch, decreasing one stitch at each side of the marked sts on next and foil alternate row. {50 [58 : 58 : 62] sts}.

Hood:

Next row: K9 [12 : 12 : 12]; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; (m1, k1 [1 : 1 : 2]) 12 [2 : 2 : 10] times; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; m1; k9 [12 : 12 : 12]. {73 [77 : 77 : 79] sts}.

Change to No 5 needles.

1st row (right side): Knit to end.
2nd row: K4; purl to last 4 sts, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows until hood measures 11½ ins from beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: K4, slip these 4 sts on to a holder, cast off next 20 [21 : 21 : 22] sts; k25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts, (including stitch on needle); k4 and slip these 4 sts on to a holder.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to rem 25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts and beg with a purl row, cont in stocking stitch until side edge fits along cast off edge of hood to within 4 sts on holder. Cast off.

Sew cast off edges to side edge of centre piece.

Left border:
Using No 5 needles, and M, with wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to 4 sts on holder on left side of hood. Cont in g st until extra rows, when slightly stretched, fit across to centre of cast off sts at centre of hood.
Cast off.

Right border:
Work as given for left border.

Join borders and sew in position around hood.
Join side seams.
Join sleeve seams to markers.
Sew yoke edges to cast off edges of back and front.
Press seams.
Using M, make 2 twisted cords with a tassel at each end and sew in position to fasten at neck.

[Editor's note: I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

Materials

10 [11 : 11 : 12] x 50g balls Jaeger Catkin in main shade (M) and
8 [9 : 9 : 10] balls of contrast colour, (C)

[Editor's note: I have knitted the hood in the contrast yarn rather than as the instructions given here, where the hood is in the main shade. If you want to do this, it will alter the required amount of yarn.
Also, I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

A pair each of No 8 (4 mm) and No 5 (5½ mm) needles.

Tension

14 sts and 22 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inch bust.
Length to shoulder: 27 [27½ : 27½ : 28] inches.
Sleeve seam: 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches.

The figures in square brackets refer to the 34, 36 and 38 inch sizes respectively.

Abbreviations

m1: increase by picking up the loop lying before next st and knitting into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
k2tog tbl: (decrease) knit 2 sts together through back loops - also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

Jaeger Catkin was a lovely quality soft bouclé wool. There are a number of good choices for a substitute chunky bouclé these days, including options from Rowan. However, you might have to go with a single colour - which might be more sophisticated - unless you are into dying your own matching colour combination.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


You can see similar patterns - some with front pockets - in the vintage patterns section:


Sweater with hood and stripes


Pattern ID: Hayfield 1271

Mother and daughter tunics


Pattern ID: Hayfield 1241

February 2011

Jester Socks

JesterSocks1.jpg

These socks were adapted from a wonderful elderly pattern, and were lots of fun to knit, (and wear!). They make me think of those dusty Jester colours though - mustard yellow, a dull brick red, a saddened teal...

Instructions.

Cast on 128 stitches and start working in garter stitch - knit 4 rows.

5th row: increase in first stitch, k62, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K62, increase in last stitch.
6th row and every alternate row up to row 13: Knit
7th row: increase in first stitch, k64, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K64, increase in last stitch.
9th row: increase in first stitch, k66, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.
11th row: increase in first stitch, k68, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K68, increase in last stitch.
13th row: increase in first stitch, k70, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.

Knit another 13 rows on these 148 stitches.
Now proceed in stocking stitch and shape by working short rows as follows:
27th row: K72, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
28th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn
29th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
30th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn

Repeat 29th and 30th rows 14 times, thus completing 58th row.

59th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40.
60th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39.
61st row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k38.
62nd row: P37, p2tog, p2togtbl, p37.
63rd row: K36, k2togtbl, k2tog, k36.
64th row: P35, p2tog, p2togtbl, p35.
65th row: K34, k2togtbl, k2tog, k34.
66th row: P33, p2tog, p2togtbl, p33.
67th row: K32, k2togtbl, k2tog, k32.
68th row: P31, p2tog, p2togtbl, p31.

Make slots for ribbon on next row thus:
Slot row: K1, (k2tog, wfd, k2) to last 3 sts, k2tog, wfd, k1.
Next row: Purl.
Break off wool.
Now work the points as follows:
With right side of work facing you slip the first 11 sts onto a piece of thread; join wool to next stitch, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining sts. on a spare needle, continue only on these 21 sts, as follows:

2nd row (first point): P1, (k1, p1) 10 times.

Continue in rib but decrease 1 stitch at each ent of the next row and every alternate row until 3 sts. remain.
Knit 3 together and fasten off.

With right side of work facing you. join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining 11 sts on the spare needle.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Join underfoot and back seam.

With right side of work facing you, join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle. (k1, p1) 5 times, then knit last stitch on spare needle together with first stitch on on the thread, after which (p1, k1) 5 times over remaining sts on thread.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Make another sock in the same way.

Run ribbon through slots at ankles.

Cuff Variation

You can see from the photo below that I added another layer of points to my sock.
I cast on 64 sts and worked 6 rows in rib. I then worked the points in moss stitch as given for the points on the main sock, but I decreased on every 3rd row instead of every alternate row to make the points longer. When I had finished I sewed the cuff to the inside of the sock matching the points on the second cuff to the gaps between the points on the sock. I attached the cuff just below the eyelet row.

JesterSocks3.jpg

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4ply
I used Cygnet 4ply colour 2041 (yellow)

A pair each of No
11 (3mm) needles.

A yard of narrow ribbon.
(I used a twisted cord of yarn).

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Foot length about 9 inches, length down back about 5 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
tbl: through back loops (also known as ssk).
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.

A word on the wool.

The original socks were knitted in "Wendy Family Wool 4ply". I chose to use Cygnet yarn not only because it is a good (75/25) blend for socks but also I wanted the lovely bright "Jester" yellow - and I was surprised that in the vast array of available yarns in my local John Lewis, I could not find any true yellows in any weight of wool - obviously not fashionable currently. The "brights" seem to be limited to cotton blends, which in my experience are not good for socks.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2010

Winter Wonder Hat

WinterWonderHat6.jpg

This is a very flattering hat - speaking as one who has difficulty with hats, which always leads to sartorial dilemmas in weather such as we have in the UK at the moment. However, not only flattering and warm, but amazingly speedy to knit, which can be very useful at this time of year. I completed it in one afternoon.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is a simple six-row pattern where you increase at the beginning and decrease at the end of every alternate row to create the diagonal effect. At the same time you alternate 3-row bands of stocking stitch and reverse sticking stitch.

Side

Cast on 20sts.
[Editor's note: I cast on in waste wool, and when I had completed the 12 patterns (see below) I grafted the sts together instead of seaming.]

1st row: Knit
2nd row: P2tog, purl to the last stitch, purl twice in the last stitch.
3rd row: Knit
4th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.
5th row: Purl
6th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 12 complete patterns have been worked from the start. Cast off.
[Editor's note: I did not cast off but grafted the sts to the cast on row by removing the waste wool and unpicking my first knit row, using this yarn tail to graft. This makes a perfect join.]

Brim

With right side facing, pick up and knit 72sts along one edge of the side piece - that is 3 sts to each knit and purl stripe.
[Editor's note: As I had already seamed the side piece into a tube shape, I used a circular needle to pick up the 72sts and knit the brim.]

Work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, and then cast off in rib.

Join side piece and brim neatly with a flat seam.
[Editor's note: If you have not already grafted the side together.....]

Press seam lightly.

Crown

Cast on 14sts, and work in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row (this is right side of work), and increasing at each end of the first and every alternate row until there are 28 sts.

Knit one row.

Then continue, decreasing at each end of next and every following alternate row until 14sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Pin crown in position to side of hat on wrong side, so that purl side of crown is on the outside. Back stitch in position very neatly on wrong side with a tailored seam
Press seam lightly on the right side using a damp cloth.

Fold ribbed brim in half to wrong side and slip stitch in position round lower edge.

Place on head.
Admire.

Wrap in Christmas paper. Put under tree.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 (2 oz) hanks Patons Big Ben Knitting in white.
Sample shown uses some handspun yarn.

A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Tension

12 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

A word on the wool.

Big Ben was quite a novelty bulky wool in its time. There were no substitutes short of knitting several strands of thinner yarn together to make the right tension (as I did with my handspun).
These days we have a number of bulky wools to try; the hat is fairly forgiving as the knit and purl stripes are stretchy like ribbing.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WinterWonderHat5.jpg

Handspun Yarn

I bought some Spelsau fleece at Woolfest in 2009; there was a workshop on knitting direct from the fleece but I intended to spin my sample. I made a 2 ply yarn which was softer than I had expected, but kempy (as I had not attempted to remove the coarser fibres). There was only a small amount - I did not measure the yardage, but I started with 100g, the yarn was chunky weight, and I knitted 2 strands of yarn together by combining it with an aran-weight handspun merino/silk blend to achive the bulky weight required. As you can see, the fleece was a lovely combination of natural grey tones.
The 100g sample was sufficient to knit the side and brim of the hat, but not the crown - I spun some of the coarser fibre from my Leicester Longwool fleece and combined that with the merino/silk as before to get the right yarn weight and drape, (quite a firm knitted fabric).

The description of the Spelsau fleece is as follows (taken from the reference above):

The Spaelsau is a direct ancestor to the Old Norwegian Sheep.They were tough sheep supplying their masters with meat, milk, wool, skin - even the sails that carried the ships over the oceans were made of their wool. Today, a thousand years later, the wool of the Spaelsau still consists of a rough cover to protect against the wind and the rain, and under this a much softer layer close to the skin as protection against the cold.
The rocky Norwegian west coast is Spaelsau country. On a few isolated isles among the skerries off the coast you still find Old Norwegian Sheep living wild.

August 2010

Autumn Afghan

AutumnAfghan.jpg

I love the rich autumn colours in this simple 1970s throw. Don't spurn the simple crochet motif; while not technically challenging, they do make an ideal handbag project for your holiday or your commute to work. You may think it's a bit early to think about autumn but there are just under 200 motifs make up the full size blanket... so maybe in time for Autumn 2011!

Crochet abbreviations:

ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
dc =double crochet
tr = treble crochet
2 tr tog = two treble together - as follows:
Yarn round hook (yrh), insert hook in space and draw through a loop as you would for a normal treble - you have 3 loops on the hook;
yrh and draw through 2 loops continuing as for a normal treble - you have 2 loops on the hook.
Now it becomes a little different. You leave the 2 loops - do not finish the stitch but start a second treble: yrh, insert hook in next space and draw through a loop - you have 4 loops on the hook; yrh and draw through 2 loops - you have 3 loops on the hook; finish the stitch by yrh and draw through remaining 3 loops.
[Editor's note: This is a method of "decreasing" in crochet although that's not why we are doing it in this motif.]

Remember the above are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Editor's note: While writing this I found a simply excellent free form crochet site from James Walters which reflects his own work alongside Sylvia Cosh and has - among other things - some great crochet information. As the author states - the information was originally intended as worksheets for their students - however I found they do offer useful guidance (available in both what I will call "English" as well as "US English"!)

Instructions

Make 4 ch and join with a ss to make a ring.

1st round: 3ch; 11 tr into ring; ss to 3 ch.

2nd round: 3ch; 1 tr into same place as ss; * 2ch, 2tr into next tr, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch, ss to 3rd of 3ch.

3rd round: 3ch; 2tr into first 2ch space; * 2ch, 1tr into same space, work 2 tr tog (see abbreviations) with first leg in the same space and second leg in the next space, 1tr into same space, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch 1tr into same space, ss to 3rd of 3ch.
[Editor's note: I found this a bit confusing. see if this helps you: in one individual space, you start with the 2nd leg of a "2 tr tog" followed by 1 tr, 2ch, 1 tr, then the 1st leg of a "2 tr tog" - the 2nd leg moves you into the next space.]

4th round: * 1ch, 5tr in space, 1ch, 1dc into 2 tr tog, repeat from * to end, finishing with ss into ss of previous round.

Fasten off.

This completes your first motif.

Make 7 for the centre and then 48, 44, 44, and 46 in the other colours.

Here's a close-up picture of one of the motifs. Hopefully it will help you see how they should look.

Motif.jpg

Making up

Join 2 shells to each adjacent motif, using the following pattern as a guide to placement. It is a good idea to sew this together gradually as you go along - you can stop any time you feel it's big enough, leave the throw as a circular shape, or continue with the pattern to make a rectangle.

Sew in all ends.
Press lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron and a damp cloth.

Materials

4ply/Fingering yarn in 5 autumnal colours. You will need about 1 ball for the centre and about 8 balls for each of the other 4 colours.

One number 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

Tension

One motif measures about 4 inches in diameter.

Size matters

Approximately 52 by 60 inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2010

Fringed Yoke

Knitted in a light weight yarn and originally designed in the 1950s to wear under or over a sweater with a lower neckline. The original is a "fringed cable yoke" (in case you want to show it off over the sweater) but I have omitted the fringing; I wear it as a convenient alternative to a scarf. The yarn I used is more a 4ply than a 3ply weight so my version is very slightly bulkier and longer than the original.

Instructions.

Cables are worked as follows:

Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 7: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 6: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 5: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 4: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
Cable 3: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.

Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece.

Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P4, * k8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
2nd row: K4, * p8, k8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more.

9th row: P4, * cable8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
10th row: as 2nd row.
11th row: as 1st row.
12th row (decrease row): K4, * p8, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4. [271 sts]
13th row: P4, * k8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
14th row: K4, * p8, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.
15th and 16th rows: as 13th and 14th rows.
17th row: P4, * cable8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
18th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, p2tog, p3, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p3, k2tog, p3, k4. [253 sts]

Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

24th row (decrease row): K4, * p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts]
25th row: P4, * cable7, p6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, cable7, p4.

Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts]

Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4.

Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before.

Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end.

Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end.

Work a further 4 rows straight.

Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4.

Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib.

Cast off.

To work the buttonholes:
With crochet hook, work 3 rows of double crochet down left side of opening, then 3 rows down right side, making 8 small button loops in 3rd row. Fasten off.

Optional fringing:
Cut 2 strands of wool each 3 inches long, fold in half and knot through every alternate stitch of cast-on edge. Now take last 2 strands from one knot together with first 2 from next knot and knot these 4 together to form trellis fringe as shown in photograph. Trim fringe evenly. Sew on buttons. Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. **

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
[Editor's note: You can use a circular needle here but knit backwards and forwards.]
A cable needle.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
8 small buttons.

Tension

Original yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

One size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension.

Crochet

Double crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2009

Matching Mittens

MatchingMittens.jpg

In need of an additional gift that you can speedily knit? - then this is for you. (Unless you live in the tropics, when it would probably never be for you).

I made these mittens to go with the beret Featherbed by Louisa Harding from her book Little Cake. I like Louisa's work, and yarns; however, I made her beret in Rowan Kid Classic as I needed a particular colour, and in consequence had sufficient left to make mittens, using a similar stitch pattern. Using Kid Classic was fine but made for an even more lightweight beret - I think I would like to try the recommended yarn for a slightly bulkier feel as intended.
The mittens are lovely and warm and .... feathery.

Instructions:

(Make two gloves alike)

Cast on 36 stitches, arrange evenly over 3 needles.
Join in a round, and begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * K3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
Repeat round 1 three more times.

5th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [30sts]
6th round: * K1, yon, k1, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
7th and 8th rounds: as 1st.

Repeat rounds 5 through 8 four times more times.

21st round: as 5th.
22nd round (increase): * K1, yon, k1, p1, yon, k1,p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

23rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
24th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
25th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
26th round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]
Repeat rounds 23 through 26 three times more times.

39th round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times.
Then: k3, p1, k1. Using waste yarn, knit the last 2 sts of the round.
Slip these 2 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn.

40th round: Begin the next round continuing with the waste yarn, and k5. Slip these 5 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn. Then finish the round as follows: k1, yon, p1; * k3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [43sts]

41st round: Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2tog, k1, p1; * slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [36sts]

42nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

Repeat rounds 23 through 26 twice more. Cast off 42 sts (not too tightly).

Work the thumb.

Go back to the waste yarn and carefully remove it, placing the resulting live sts on two double-point needles; there will be 7
sts below the opening, that look like normal sts, and aim to get 8 sts above - ensure you pick up all the loops.

Now set off working in a round; starting with the 7 sts below the opening, arrange the sts as follows: Place the first 2 sts on a needle and leave for the end of the round.

Join in the yarn and using another needle, k3, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 7 lower sts and the first of the 8 upper sts), yon, then purl the second stitch from the upper needle. This is "needle one" and has 7 sts.
Using another needle, k1, k2tog, k1. This is "needle two" and has 3 sts.
Using another needle, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 8 upper sts and the first of the two sts you left for the end of the round), p1. This is "needle three" and has 4sts. [14 sts]

1st round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [12sts]
2nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [14 sts]
3rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
4th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
5th round: as 1st.
6th round: as 2nd.

Cast off 14 thumb sts loosely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

1 x 50g ball Rowan Kid Classic.

Small length of waste yarn in contrasting colour, (something slippery like cotton preferably).

One set of 4 No. 8 (4 mm) needles.

Tension

Kid Classic knits to a tension of 18sts and 24 rows to 4 inches on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

Abbreviations

yon: yarn over needle - makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2009

Cosy cable socks

CosyCableSocks.jpg

Father George recently handed back his bedsocks as they had holes in the heels. I dutifully mended them, but thought this a good excuse to give him another pair.

These socks are one size, but easily stretch to fit comfortably around a man's foot, as well as fitting round my own foot (small lady's), albeit loosely. If you want cosy house socks for a female foot then simply adjust the length. These are intentionally short at the ankle, but again you can easily knit them longer for the size you need.

Instructions

With No. 9 needles, cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.

1st round: * K4, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
2nd-4th rounds: As first round.
5th (cable) round: * C4B, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
6th round: As first round.

These are the six basic pattern rounds.

Repeat these six rounds twice more, (or as many times as you need to lengthen the sock at the ankle), and then the first round once again.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be longer in the leg, then add more rows here.]

Divide for heel flap.

Next Row: Knit the first 28 sts of the round on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 32 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete cables across the 32 instep sts, starting and ending with p2.

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across the remaining 27 sts. [28 sts].
Next round: * Slip1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat the last 2 rows 12 times more.

Turn the heel.

Work short rows as follows:

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across 15sts, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k5, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1 p6, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k7, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn

Continue working in this way until all the sts have been incorporated [16sts], ending with a knit row, and right side facing.

Continuing to work onto the same needle (needle 1), pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Slip all the instep sts on to one needle, and using a 2nd needle knit across instep sts, in the cable pattern, starting at the second row.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Knit the first 8 sts from Needle 1, and slip these on to the end of Needle 3. [78 sts].

[Editor's note: I am not one to encourage a sloppy attitude to knitting, but...
When you pick up sts down the side of the heel flap for this design of sock it is not essential that you pick up exactly the number stated - you do not even have to pick up the same number down each side of the flap - I often find that I have one more on one side than the other (this is due to the way I make the heel flaps which we won't dwell on here!). Whatever you pick up, you must decrease to the right number as you do the shape the instep - it's not the number of decreases but the final number of sts that is important.
I would say though, that whatever you do on the first sock, try and remember to repeat it on the second sock - that's best...]

Shape the instep:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit, following the 6-row cable pattern as set. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 60sts remain (14 on the first needle, 32 on the second needle, 14 on the third needle).

Continue on these sts, (continuing the cable pattern on the upper foot as set), until you have completed 12 cable patterns from the very beginning of the work, or until work measures 2 inches less than the desired foot length.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be smaller or larger, alter the length here.]

Shape toe:

Continue in stocking stitch only (no more cables), as follows: knit the sts from Needle 1, then knit the first st from Needle 2 and put it on Needle 1. Knit 30 sts from Needle 2, then place the last st onto Needle 3. Knit across 15 sts on Needle 3.

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end. [56sts]
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 32 sts remain, ending with 1st round.

Then repeat round 1 twice more [24 sts].

Making up.

Knit the sts from needle one, break the thread leaving a long tail.
Slip the sts from needles 1 and 3 onto one needle.

Graft the two sets of 12 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting,otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

About 1 x 50g skein (139 metres) Phildar Oxygene, colour 38, Neptune.
[Editor's note: If you lengthen the sock at the ankle you will need more wool.]

One set of 4 No. 9 (3½mm) double- pointed needles.

Tension

23 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 9 (3½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.

Abbreviations

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
This cable is ideal to work using the method without a cable needle.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

 

September 2009

Macmillan Comfort Blanket

Blanket2.jpg

The Knitter magazine, supported by Rowan, have set up the Macmillan Comfort Blanket campaign. The idea is to knit blanket squares with your knitting group, and sew them all together at the fund-raising World's Biggest Coffee Morning* on September 25th. You can hand in your completed blankets either at a drop off point or at The Alexandra Palace show in October. Details all provided in the link.

*The coffee mornings are fund-raising events; you can register to hold one or join one. Again - details all provided in the link.

Blankets that are donated to Macmillan will be used to support and raise awareness of the charity's campaign to freeze out fuel poverty for cancer patients. I am an enthusiastic supporter of Macmillan and other cancer charities involved with care of cancer sufferers (like Maggie's). Cancer is (mainly) a disease of the old, and the unpalatable truth is that the longer we live, the more likely we all are to be affected. It is a great comfort to know that such professional and caring organisations exist to help us when we need them.

At the Macmillan website you can see that Rowan have gained the support of top international designers to create a square pattern for the campaign.
That is:- "top international designers" - and - the idle hands ....!

Abbreviations

MB: make bobble by knitting into the front, back, front, back, front and back of next stitch, then pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sts over 1st stitch.
[Editor's note: I know - this sounds impossible - but it is achievable. This is how the bobbles are created in the original "Debbie Bliss Square"]

m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop between the sts and knitting into the back of it.

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

C4F: "cable 4 front"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

C6B: "cable 6 back"; slip the next 3sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.

T3B: "transpose 3 back"; slip the next (purl) st onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

T3F: "transpose 3 front"; slip the next 2 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

T4B: "transpose 4 back"; slip the next 2 (purl) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then p2 from cable needle.

T4F: "transpose 4 front"; slip the next 2 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, p2, then k2 from cable needle.

T5B: "transpose 5 back"; slip the next 2 (purl) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k3, then p2 from cable needle.

T5F: "transpose 5 front"; slip the next 3 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, p2, then k3 from cable needle.

k2tog = decrease a stitch by knitting 2 sts together.

Chain and Vines Square

This square begins and ends with a simple garter stitch border.
The following are the pattern rows used in this square:

Row 1 (right side): K6, p7, T3B, p7, C6B, p7, T3F, p7, k6.
Row 2 (wrong side): K13, p2, k8, p6, k8, p2, k13.
Row 3: K6, p6, T3B, p6, T5B, T5F, p6, T3F, p6, k6.
Row 4: K12, p2, k7, p3, k4, p3, k7, p2, k12.
Row 5: K6, p5, T3B, p5, T5B, p4, T5F, p5, T3F, p5, k6.
Row 6: K11, p2, k1, MB, k4, p3, k8, p3, k4, MB, k1, p2, k11.
Row 7: K6, p5, T3F, p5, k3, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; k3, p5, T3B, p5, k6.
Row 8: K12, p2, k5, p3, k8, p3, k5, p2, k12.
Row 9: K6, p6, T3F, p4, T5F, p4, T5B, p4, T3B, p6, k6.
Row 10: K13, p2, k6, p3, k4, p3, k6, p2, k13.
Row 11: K6, p7, T3F, p5, T5F, T5B, p5, T3B, p7, k6.
Row 12: K12, MB, k1, p2, k7, p6, k7, p2, k1, MB, k12.

Chain and Vines Square instructions:

Cast on 45 sts and knit 4 rows garter stitch (knit every row).
Next Row (increase row): K8; ( m1, k5) 7 times; k2. [52 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): work 10th row of the pattern.
Next Row: work 11th row of the pattern.
Next Row: work 12th row of the pattern.

Now work rows 1-12 four times, then rows 1 and 2 again.

Next Row (decrease row): K7; ( k2tog, k4) 7 times; k3. [47 sts]
Knit 4 more rows in garter stitch.

Cast off knitwise from the wrong side of the work.

Lattice Square:

This square begins and ends with a garter stitch bobble border, in the same design as the original Debbie Bliss Square.
The following are the pattern rows used in this square:

Row 1 (right side): K3, MB, k3; p7, k2, p8, C4B, p8, k2, p7; k3, MB, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): K14, p2, k8, p4, k8, p2, k14.
Row 3: K7, p7, T4F, p4, T4B, T4F, p4, T4B, p7, k7.
Row 4: K16; (p2, k4) 3 times; p2, k16.
Row 5: K7, p9, T4F, T4B, p4, T4F, T4B, p9, k7.
Row 6: K18, p4, k8, p4, k18.
Row 7: K3, MB, k3; p11, C4B, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; C4F, p11; k3, MB, k3.
Row 8: As row 6.
Row 9: K7, p9, T4B, T4F, p4, T4B, T4F, p9, k7.
Row 10: As row 4.
Row 11: K7, p7, T4B, p4, T4F, T4B, p4, T4F, p7, k7.
Row 12: As row 2.
Row 13: K7, p7, k2, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; C4B, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; k2, p7,k7.
Row 14: K14, p2, k8, p4, k8, p2, k14.

Lattice Square instructions:

Cast on 47 sts and knit 4 rows garter stitch (knit every row).
Next Row (right side): K3; (MB, k4) 8 times; MB, k3.
Knit 3 more rows in garter stitch.
Next Row (increase row): K11; ( m1, k6) 4 times; m1, k12. [52 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): work 2nd row of the pattern.

Now work the pattern rows as follows:

Rows 1-14: Work rows 1 to 14 inclusive.
Rows 15-38: Work rows 3 to 14 inclusive, twice.
Rows 39-48: Work rows 3 to 12 inclusive.
Rows 49: Work row 1.

Next Row (decrease row): K11; ( k2tog, k5) 4 times; k2tog, k11. [47 sts]
Knit 4 more rows in garter stitch.
Next Row (right side): K3; (MB, k4) 8 times; MB, k3.
Knit 2 more rows in garter stitch.

Cast off knitwise from the wrong side of the work.

Making up

Sew the squares together in 5 rows of 8 squares each, so the blanket measures approximately 40 inches by 64 inches.
Sew in all ends.
Work a crochet or knitted border around the whole thing - if you feel up to it after all that knitting!

Materials

One ball of double knitting yarn at about 100m or 108 yards in length makes about 2 squares.

Rowan are supporting this initiative but you are not compelled to use their wools - you are encouraged to use wool from your stash.

Size matters

8 inch squares making up a 40x64 inch blanket.

Tension

General DK tension: 22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch. or gauge to make the 8 inch square.

These bobble squares: 23 sts to 4 inches using 3¾mm needles.

A Word
on the Wool.

Unfortunately my "stash" is not overflowing with left-over double knitting wools of the right type to use for this project.

In the end I used some Phildar yarns that I had intended for another long-abandoned project. These yarns are robust and high quality - about 25% wool and superwash. Therefore - both warm and practical.

The yarn used for the bobble squares is Oxygene which is apparently "anti-bacterial" (!) - 25% wool, 35% chlorofibre, 40% acrylic - and knits to a tension of 23stsand 30 rows to 4 inches on 3½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern there is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Pattern inspirations for the squares

Blanket1.jpg

I used my squares in combination with the "Debbie Bliss Square" shown below.



My designs above are inspired by her other bobble pattern designs, which I have adapted to make a double knitting wool weight 8 inch patch for this blanket.
Every alternate square in my blanket is knitted plain. Above is (a section of) the completed blanket. I did a rather pleasing edging adapted from a stitch used as part of a sweater pattern.



Note that my "flag dishcloth" square (POM February 2007) could also be adapted to make an 8 inch square. Use a DK wool that knits to 22 or 23 sts to 4 inches. Use 3½mm needles and cast on 45 sts instead of 49, knitting a 3st garter stitch border instead of 5. Repeat the 10 row pattern 5 times in all, and knit a 6-8 row border to start and finish your square, making up the 8 inches in length.
You could knit other guernsey patterns for as a theme for different squares - like a sampler. But - remember to check your tension. Your squares need to be about 45 sts by 62 rows in st st.


Rather Pleasing Edging

The method for the basic stitch pattern is as follows, assuming using a combination of DK and extra-thick chunky type wool, and working back and forth across the rows on two needles:

Row 1 (right side): Using DK and suitable needles (eg 4mm), knit.
Row 2 (wrong side): Using DK, purl.
Row 3 (right side): Using chunky contrast, change to large needles, (eg 7mm or more), slip1, knit one to end of row (you are knitting alternate stitches - you need to ease the stitches in order to slip them).
Row 4 (wrong side): Using chunky contrast, knit the sts you knitted on the previous row, and slip the sts you slipped.
Row 5 (right side): Change back to DK and smaller needles and knit every st across row.
Row 6 (wrong side): Using DK, purl.

When edging the blanket, I picked up sts around the whole blanket, and I worked from the right side for all rows, so on row 4, I purled the chunky sts, and all all other rows were knitted. To achieve this with such a large number of sts round the whole blanket, I started every row with a new ball of yarn, and worked in sections, completing all rows and casting off for a section before picking up the next set of sts. I did not break the multiple yarn strands between sections.


Cabling without a Needle

It was while I was making the Estonian socks from the Interweave Knits Sock book that I first became aware that this was a bona fide knitting technique. Before that, I always thought it was just some dexterous manipulation that I was forced into when knitting on the train and found that I had forgotten to take my cable needle with me. Now it seems to be the technique of the moment, with a Beyond the Basics lesson on it in the 2009 autumn issue of Interweave Knits, plus a full explanation in Knitting Daily.

It works like this:- for example, when cabling over 4 stitches as in C4B above, work to just before the stitches to be cabled. With the yarn at the back of the work, slip all four stitches purlwise to the right-hand needle. Bring the left-hand needle to the back of the work and insert it into the backs the two sts further from the left hand needle.

Between the left thumb and forefinger, pinch the base of the four stitches firmly. Pull the right-hand needle completely free of all four stitches; half will be on the left-hand needle; half will be free for a moment. Maintaining the front/back positions as established, quickly reinsert the right-hand needle into the free stitches at the front of the work. Make sure all the stitches are seated correctly on the needle; if they are held firmly, the stitches won't have twisted or moved at all during the time that they were dropped.

Finally slip the two stitches on the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle. The stitches are now crossed over. Knit all four sts as usual to complete the C4B.

This works well for cabling with smaller numbers of stitches (less than 6) and proved to be very useful for me while knitting these squares.

June 2009

Tennis Socks

TennisSocks.jpg

Early 1950s tennis socks originally knitted in crisp navy and white wool. I love cuffed socks but detect that some others (my sister) clearly do not. These have the design made specifically to fold down though - so there's no way out.

Instructions.

The pattern works the instep and the sole separately on two needles to enable you to work the fair isle pattern across the instep only. It is not possible to achieve this in the round. However, you join the two together as you knit.

Using No 12 needles with main shade (M), cast on 59 sts loosely and join in a round. Work 4 rounds in moss (also known as seed) stitch [every row k1 p1].

Next Round (increasing): K3; (m1, k8) 7 times. [66 sts]

Cuff border:

Change to No 11 needles and join in contrast (C) and work wave pattern border by repeating the 6 stitch pattern 10 times:

1st Round: * k3 contrast (C), k3 navy (N); repeat from * to end.
2nd Round:
* k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k1(C) ; repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k1N; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: Knit in N.
5th Round (decreasing): K31; k2tog; ssk2tog; k31. [64 sts]

Now continue with cuff diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times across one round:

6th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * k2(N), k1(C), k1(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * k1(N), k1(C), k3(N), k1(C), k2(N); repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k1(N) ; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
11th Round: As 9th.
12th Round: As 8th.
13th Round: As 7th.
14th Round: As 6th.

Now break off C and continue with N only; change to No 12 needles and work 7 rounds knitting.

Then turn the work so you are working the rounds in the other direction. This reverses the work to allow the cuff to fold over with the right side visible.

Work 8 more rounds knitting; at the end of the first round knit into the stitch below the first stitch of the round and knit it together with the last stitch of the round to avoid a small hole in the work.
Editor's note: Even if you don't understand how to do this, any tiny hole will not be visible as it is hidden under the cuff.

Join in C, working main diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times:

1st Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k2(N), ; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k2(C), k1(N), k1(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k1(C), k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * k2(C), k3(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
6th Round: As 4th.
7th Round: As 3rd.
8th Round: As 2nd.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Work rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Continue with N only and divide for the heel, however do not break off C.

Divide for heel

Next Row: Using navy wool only, knit the next 31 stitches on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 33 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete patterns across the 33 instep sts. Make sure that it looks like this (you will have just completed row 5, the middle row in the picture):

[ Editor's note: If it doesn't look like this... you can compensate by knitting more or fewer sts for the heel flap until you get to the pattern boundary. Then when you purl back on the row below, follow the instructions as set to get your 30 sts. You should have your instep sts set correctly as above. If you still haven't then there is likely a mistake in your fair isle pattern.]

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Purl back across 15 sts, p2 together, purl remaining 14 sts. [30 sts].

Heel flap

Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.
Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p29.
Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.

Repeat last 2 rows 13 times more.

Turn heel

Turn the heel by working short rows:

Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p16, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip1, k5, ssk, k1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, k7, ssk, k1; turn.

Continue in this way until all the sts have been incorporated in the row, ending with a knit row. [18 sts]

Turn. Purl one row.
Do not turn work, do not break wool.

Pick up and purl 16 sts down side of heel flap to bring the navy wool back to work the patterned instep. Leave these 16 sts along with the 18 heel sts, on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Upper foot panel

Take 33 sts left on needles 1 and 2, and slip them on to one needle.

Continue to use the navy yarn and pick up the contrast C, which should be waiting for you at the beginning of a purl side instep row (row 6 of the pattern). Begin working back and forth across these 33 sts, keeping the continuity of the pattern starting with a purl row and working from row 6 of the chart where you left off; work alternate rows in knit and purl.
Work the first 6 rows without slipping the first stitch and after that, slip the first stitch of every row.

Continue for 5½ inches or 4 inches less than overall desired foot length, ending with a knit row.
[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot. Each pattern is approximately 1 inch, and it is nicer if you can end your work after one complete pattern, which will be to the nearest half-inch, after knitting row 5 or row 1 of the pattern. If your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches you can still work to complete patterns, and compensate by adding a couple of rows when you work the toe.]

Break contrast yarn, and continue in navy only.

Turn the work and purl across 15 sts; p2tog; p16.

Continue with wrong side facing, using another No 12 needle, pick up and purl about 27sts from the slipped sts down the right side of the upper foot panel, and from the edges of the first 5 rows you knitted.
[ Editor's note: This is 27 sts, or more, or less, depending on how you adjusted the foot length. Also - when you pick up these sts you may want to work the sts through their back loops to keep them tight.]

Mark the stitch, by placing a piece of waste wool between the sts at this point. The waste wool should be about 6 inches long in an easily distinguished contrasting colour, and smooth, (for example cotton), as it will be woven between rows, and later pulled out.

Using the same No 12 working needle, pick up and purl 17 sts from side of heel flap, then purl 9 sts from the heel.

Using another No 12 working needle, purl the 9 remaining heel sts, and then purl the 16 sts you already picked up from the other side of the heel flap.

Mark the stitch with a piece of waste wool, as before.

Continuing with this needle, purl along the left side of the upper foot panel, picking up 27 sts from the edges of the first 6 rows you knitted and from the slipped edge sts.

The work is arranged on 3 needles. The picture shows the working needle in the process of knitting across the sole, and the waste wool markers in white.
[ Editor's note: This is where you need the needles to be long. I managed with 8 inch dpns but they really need to be longer to ensure you don't lose sts off the ends. While you are working and joining the sole, it might be prudent to put end stops on the two working needles.

Purl across the 32 sts at the top of the panel. Then using one of the spare needles, purl down the right side of the panel again, as far as the stitch marker.]
The marker is trapped between sts in the row below; pass the waste wool between the sts again before continuing, so that it will be trapped between the rows and continue to mark the sts for the sole section.

Do not turn the work.

Sole

Using the No 12 working needles, you are going to knit back and forth across the sole (between the markers) in stocking stitch, knitting the last stitch from each row together with one stitch from the upper foot panel.

1st Row: (Wrong side facing) Slip1, p24 from first needle, (16 sts up side of heel and 9 sts from heel flap), then purl 24 sts from second needle, up to 1 stitch before the stitch marker. Purl the last stitch of the sole section together with the first of the instep sts. [50sts between the markers]
Turn.
Continue to work sole on 3 needles, one working needle and the sts arranged evenly over the other 2.

2nd Row: (Right side facing) Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts before the marker; k2tog, ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.
3rd Row: Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, purl to the last stitch; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, shaping the sole by decreasing 2 sts on the knit rows, until 28 sole sts remain between the markers.

Then continue without shaping as follows (continuing to weave in the markers as before):

Next Row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch before the marker; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before.
Next Row: Slip 1, knit to the last st before the marker; ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all the sts from the sides of the upper foot have been joined to the sole. Do not join any of the sole sts to the 32 sts left on the 4th needle at the end of the panel.
End with a knit row. Do not turn.

Toe

Now you continue to work the sole and upper foot sts together in a round, as follows:

With right side facing, using your working needle (needle 1), knit across 32 sts from the upper foot. Knit the next 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 2), and knit the final 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 3).
Knit the first stitch from the upper foot panel on needle 1 and slip it on to the end of needle 3. Slip the last stitch from the upper foot panel on to the beginning of needle 2.

You have 60 sts arranged with 30 sts on needle 1, and 15 sts on each off needles 2 and 3.

Continue to work in rounds as follows:

[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot if your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches. Work a couple of extra plain rounds here before starting the decreasing.]

1st Round: Needle 1: k1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk2tog, knit to end.
Needle 3: knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1. [56 sts]
2nd Round: Knit.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain.
[ Editor's note: You can decrease further if you have pointed toes.]

Slip the sts from needles 1 and 2 on to one needle and graft together with the sts on needle 3.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

4 ply: 2 ozs navy, 1 oz contrast colour.

One set each of 4 double pointed needles (dpns) size 11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm).
The smaller (12) needles need to be 9 or more inches in length.

Tension

30 stitches and 32 rows to 4 inches over pattern.

Size matters

Length from top to bottom of heel, top turned down, 5 inches; length of foot 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

N is main shade (navy).
C is contrast (pink).

m1: make one by picking up the loop between sts and knitting into the back of it

ssk/ssk2tog: (slip, slip, knit) - or (slip1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over). Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops".

 

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Purple Heather Fingering, (which in this era was a pure wool 4 ply), in navy for the main shade and white for the contrast.

Example used Sunbeam St Ives Sock wool in navy and Jaeger Baby Merino 4 ply in pink (50g balls, each about 200yds) - almost all of one ball of the main, and about half of the contrast.
Both wools are now extinct I think but substitute 4ply sock wools are fairly easy to find.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Original photo from Stitchcraft April 1950, constructed using a different pattern on 2 needles with seam under sole. Generally, seams in socks are avoided so they are more comfortable to wear; a seam right under the ball of the foot cannot be ideal as sportswear. I imagine these socks were for visual impact rather than practicality.

February 2009

Valentine Beaded Mittens

ValentineBeadMit1.jpg

I was inspired to make these mitten patterns by brightly coloured offerings from 1975. This is the posh version, even cuter than the intarsia version I think.
They are a close fit on my hands, but though my hands are small, I tend to have short fingers only; the measurement around my hand is just over 7 inches.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn. Cast on 48 stitches, using "backward loop method" as follows: loop 2, slide a bead up next to the loops; loop 4, slide next bead into place; slide next bead into place; and so on to the last bead and then end with loop 2 [48 loops].

Knit one row.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P1, k2, p1, k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P1, CB5 (cable over 5 sts "back" by slipping the next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the back of the work; k2, then (p1, k2) from cable needle), p2; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P1, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p2; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P1, k5, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K4; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k5; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Continue straight, working from the chart for the 9 rows, and completing the three hearts.

Row 10: K1, m1, k52, m1, k1. [56 sts]

Work 4 rows straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Knit 4 rounds on these 14 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn, cast on 48 stitches, and knit one row, as for right glove.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P2, k2, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P2, CF5 (cable over 5 sts "forward" by slipping the next 2sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the front of the work; k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle), p1; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P2, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p1; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P2, k5, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

You work the thumb gusset in the same way as you did for the right glove, but set the position of the thumb differently as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts; k5; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k4. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb and the bead hearts, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball Sunbeam St Ives 4 ply in cream 3103.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles. A tiny crochet hook for placing the beads.

66 beads size 6/0
[Sanctuary Beads]

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.
The cables on the wrist tend to pull in quite tightly without the same flexibility as rib. If you are concerned about this, you might use larger needles to complete the wrist welt, or even put in an extra stitch between each cable (cast on 54) just for the welt and then decrease back to 48 evenly across the last row of the cables. If you do this your pattern repeat will be
{P1, k2, p1, k2, p3}.
And you will need to place the beads on the cast-on row with 6 or 3 loops between beads instead of 4, and you may need a few extra beads to do this.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably go for Rowan 4 ply soft, perhaps in colour 376 "Nippy".

Beading

For those of you who think "Less is More" you might prefer to work a single bead heart, positioned on row 20, with the first bead on the 7th st from the edge.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Cast on loop method

Loop the working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind; repeat this movement to form the sts.


Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.

Valentine Heart Mittens

ValentineIntarsiaMit2.jpg

I was inspired to make these mitten patterns by brightly coloured offerings from 1975. By the time I had tried out a number of versions - and had many more examples of right-hand gloves than I want or need - my final designs differ substantially from the original. But they are cute aren't they?
They are a close fit on my hands, but though my hands are small, I tend to have short fingers only; the measurement around my hand is just over 7 inches.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Using contrast colour, cast on 48 stitches; purl one row, and join into a round.

Change to main colour and knit one row.
Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2 inches from start.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K28; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Work 2 rounds straight.

Cut 6 lengths of contrast wool, about 28 inches in length, and 6 of main shade; do not use bobbins, just the lengths of wool.
Work the first row of the pattern from the chart, as follows, joining in the lengths of wool as required, repeating the 9 pattern sts 6 times:
[Editor's note: You are now going to split the knitting and work back and forth in knit and purl rows. This is in order to insert the hearts nicely using the intarsia method. I tried the Fair Isle technique but the red contrast colour showed through the white, and did not look attractive. This method does mean a little more sewing in of ends but I think the result is worth it.
You will join the round up as you reach the end of each row.]

Row 1: K4 from the ball of main shade, k1 using first strand of contrast yarn, k8 using first strand of main shade, k1 contrast using second strand of contrast, k8 using second strand of main shade, and so on the the last 4 sts; k3 in last strand of main shade, slip the last st. Still using the last working needle, pick up the st below the first st of the round and knit into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.

[Editor's note: Use the pop-up from the above picture for more detailed photos of this technique.]

Row 2: P3 in main shade, p3 in contrast, p6 in main shade, and so on; use the intarsia method and twist the two yarns together when you change colour. Continue in this way until you get to the last stitch in the row, and slip this stitch. Still using the first working needle, pick up the st below the last st of the round and purl into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.
Continue until all 6 pattern rows have been worked from the chart.

Now go back to working in the round, and continue in main shade only, using the main ball of wool.
Next round: K1, m1; knit to last 2 sts, m1, k1. Work 3 more rounds straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18 sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Distribute the 14 sts evenly across 3 needles, and work 4 rounds.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles joining in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:
Work as for the right glove until you reach the working for the thumb gusset then work as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k28 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball 4 ply in main shade, and small amount of contast colour.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles.

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably try Rowan 4 ply soft.
You need so little of the contrast it hardly seems worth buying a whole ball.

Intarsia

Here is a nice little video clip about intarsia knitting. Don't be put off by her continental knitting method.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


ValentineIntarsiaMit3.jpg


Intarsia.

Text and Pictures taken from Ethknits "How to knit" page.

Hold the working yarn in your right hand and the yarn to be woven in your left.

Changing on a knit row: Knit with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to the left and wrap yarn B across the back of A as you knit the next stitch.

Changing on a purl row: Purl with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to left and wrap yarn B under A as you bring it across to purl the next stitch.

You can see from the purl row picture that the edge resembles a sideways knitted row as on each row you cross the yarns over. This way you should get no holes. Don't worry if you see holes where the yarn is loose in some places. When you finish your work you will have lots of ends to sew in and you can pull these tight and sew up any holes that still appear.

January 2009

Winter Waiscoat

WinterWaistcoat3.jpg

Speedy, speedy knitting from the 1970s. Flattering sleeveless top, warm and simple to knit.

Instructions.

The pattern is worked back and forth on circular needles, in 5 stitch repeats over four basic rows:

1st Row: Wrong side facing, {p3, k2}.
2nd Row: {K1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2}
3rd Row: As first.
4th Row: {K2tog, yfwd, k1, p2}

Body:

Note: The back and fronts are knitted as one piece up to the armholes.

With smaller circular needles cast on {100/110}120 stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch, noting that the first row is a wrong side row.

Next Row: (Wrong side facing, 1st pattern row), knit 4 and slip this 4 sts on to a safety pin or stitch holder. Change to larger circular needles and commence pattern thus: k2, *p3,k2; repeat from * to the last 4 sts. Turn, slipping the last 4 sts onto a safety pin, without knitting them. [{92/102}112 pattern sts]
[Editor's note: these 4 sts are to be knitted separately later on the smaller needles and then sewn on to form the front borders.]

Next Row: (2nd pattern row), p2, *k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to end.

Next Row: (3rd pattern row), as first pattern row.

Next Row: (4th pattern row), p2, *k2tog, yfwd, k1, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern for 10 inches (or desired length), ending with a 4th row pattern, and wrong side facing to begin the next row.
[Editor's note: I wanted my top a little longer and knitted 12½ inches here, which was 11 four-row pattern repeats in my version.]
Change back to smaller circular needles and knit 1 row plain, (garter stitch).

†† Leave the main work on the circular needles to one side now, still with wrong side facing - the row you have just knitted is not completed until after you make the front borders.

Front Borders:

At this point you need to go back to the 4sts you left on safety pins on each side of the work, to make the front borders.

Using the pair of smaller needles, and working each set of 4sts separately, rejoin the wool and continue to knit the borders; it is important you join the wool and start knitting from the correct side of each border to continue in the right sequence for garter stitch.

This means that, provided you have followed the instructions exactly as above, for both borders, you need to join the wool at the edge which will later be sewn to the main body.
So for the right front start working on the 4sts from the wrong side, with the main body to your right, every row knitted - (the right front border is on the left when the wrong side of the work is facing you).
And for the left front start working on the 4sts from the right side, with the main body again to your right, every row knitted - (the left front border is on the left when the right side of the work is facing you).

Work each border in garter stitch until, when very slightly stretched, the border fits the length of the main body that you have just knitted, finishing the left border on a wrong side row, and the right border on a right side row. For both borders the yarn end will be at the edge next to the main body. Break the yarn.
The borders should be about half an inch* shorter than the main body so that they will fit when very slightly stretched.
*[Editor's note: half an inch is about 2 rows with this gauge of wool. The right border should be relatively slightly shorter than the left.]

Now return to your main work, on the circular needle. With wrong side facing, take up your last row of plain knitting (see the marker above ††) and complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the right front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{96/106}116sts].

Turn the work (right side facing) and knit across all {96/106}116 sts and then complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the left front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{100/110}120sts].

Now divide for front and back, with wrong side facing, knit the first {25/29}32 sts (includes your extra 4 sts at front border) and place these sts on a stitch holder, to make the left front, later.

Continuing without turning, cast on 3 sts using the working yarn, knit these 3 sts, knit {46/52}56 sts cast on 3 sts. Leave the remaining 32 sts on a stitch holder, to make the right front, later. [{52/58}62 sts].
Turn and commence working back.

Back:

With right side facing, work straight in garter stitch (every row plain) for 8 inches (or the required length for the arm hole), ending with right side facing.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 42 rows].

Shape shoulders by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows,and {4/5}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and leave the remaining {18/20}22 sts on a stitch holder.

Left front:

With right side facing return to the left front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

  • you are working on the left front,
  • you have the right side facing,
  • you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
  • if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32. [{28/32}35 sts]. Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge with right side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

**
To shape the neck, knit to the last {8/9}10 sts; turn and place these {8/9}10 sts on a safety pin or stitch holder. Decrease 1 st at neck edge on every row, until {17/19}20 sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge, with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, then cast off the remaining {4/5}5 sts.
**

Right front:

With wrong side facing return to the right front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

  • you are working on the right front,
  • you have the wrong side facing,
  • you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
  • if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32 sts, [{28/32}35 sts].

Commence working in garter stitch and make buttonholes on the following 6th and 28th (wrong side) rows as follows:

Buttonhole row 1: (wrong side), knit to the last 6 sts, cast off 2, knit to end.
Buttonhole row 2: (right side), k4, cast on 2 over the cast off sts from previous row, knit to end.

Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the armhole edge, ending at the armhole edge with wrong side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

Work to complete the right front exactly as the left from ** to **.

Neck Border:

With right side facing and smaller needles, starting at the top of the right front border, k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder, pick up and k9 sts up right side of neck, k{18/20}22 sts from back neck, pick up and k9 sts down left side of neck, then k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder. [{52/56}60 sts].
Work 4 rows plain in garter stitch; cast off (from wrong side).

To Make Up

Press very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder seams, using a flat seam, (or by grafting, working from the wrong side and making a purl ridge on the right side).
Sew front borders neatly in place using a flat seam, and sew in all ends.
Sew 2 buttons in place to match the position of the buttonholes.

Materials

About 7 x 100g balls of a chunky or "big" wool that knits to the required tension on 7½mm needles.

No 2 (7mm), and No 1 (7½mm) circular needles.
A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Two 1½ inch buttons.

Tension

11sts x 16 rows to four inches measured over stocking stitch on 7½mm needles.

Size matters

I made the main size shown in black text, which is a slightly large on me (UK size 12-14, maximum size 38 inches). The original pattern was multi-sized, so I have included {2 smaller size options}, in red ink with curly brackets, as shown.

They are sized to fit {34/36}38 inches, and actual sizes more like {35/38} 42 inches.

Length from top of shoulder in my version is approximately 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

A word on the wool.

I used a pure wool Aran knitted double throughout, and this was about 450m as if knitted with a single strand of bulky wool.

Original knitted in Patons Pablo.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole. "Yarn forward" or "yarn over needle" is often used in conjunction with knitting 2 sts together (so you avoid increasing the overall number of sts) in knitted lace patterns.


psso: pass the slipped stitch over - "s1, k1, psso" or "slip, slip, knit" ("ssk") is a method of knitting 2 sts together but into the backs of the sts rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts. When decreasing by knitting 2 sts together, the resulting stitch "points" either to the right, (k2tog) or to the left (s1, k1, psso). They are used in combination, for example, in lace knitting, or raglan sleeve decreasing, to create symmetrical decreases.

garter stitch: the simplest stitch pattern of all - every row is knittted, (when worked back and forth on two needles), and the back and the front of the work look the same. It makes a fabric that stretches vertically.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

I have checked and double checked, that I have written all the "right" and "wrong side" instructions correctly - despite this, I remain concerned that an error may still have crept in. If you have any doubts at all, please contact me as above.

Adapting the size:

Altering the size is fairly simple, as you are knitting a big rectangle, with the pattern being a 5 stitch repeat. Working to the required gauge, means that every addition of 5 sts gives you almost 2 inches extra room. Once you get to divide the work, you change to working garter stitch (no pattern), and can work it out so that half the sts go to make the back, leaving a quarter each for the two fronts. If you do not have stitches divisible exactly by four you can put the extra ones into the back, and incorporate them into the back neck.

WinterWaistcoat4.jpg

April 2008

Woolly Hats for Sailors

ThreeHats.jpg

This wasn't my intended pattern for April, but I received a leaflet through the post telling me about the Sailors' Society [**please see footnote at the end], who are launching their woolly hat campaign for 2008. The campaign's aim is to provide seafarers arriving in the UK, (from foreign climates and thus ill-prepared for our weather), with hand-knitted hats to keep warm. Also worth noting is that these sailors often spend many months at sea in harsh conditions, sometimes not even speaking the same language as their colleagues, and these gifts can give a feeling of belonging and overcome feelings of isolation.

Last year's Woolly Hat Campaign saw over 15,000 hats distributed to seafarers throughout the UK and to Russia, Antwerp and South America, with over 6,000 given as part of Christmas packages.
If this inspires you, here are some patterns.

If you don't like any of these three hat patterns I have given for this month, the Yarn Harlot has an excellent free pattern for a "seriously quick hat".

** Please note that the Sailors Society does seem to be a religious organisation, which I mention not through any disapproval on my part, but in case you would care to look at their website and ensure its aims do not go against anything you believe in.

Fisherman’s Rib Hat

FishermanHat.jpg

This is my favourite hat of the three this month. It's simple, warm, comfortable, and looks like a serious seafarer's hat! Even though I don't like knitting rib that much, and Fisherman's rib means you have to put in a lot more knitting to get the length you need.... it was nonetheless very satisfying.

Instructions

With No. 6 (5mm) circular needle cast on 68 stitches, and join into a round, and purl the first round. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Editor's note: Often when you cast on it tends to be tighter and have less give than the knitting, so with a hat band you need to make an effort to cast on loosely, especially if designed to fold back. Ravelry knitter kellyincville commented that it she would do the cast on and do the first row with a larger needle, which is excellent advice for this hat.
Now work in Fisherman's rib stitch as follows:

1st round: * K1B (knit one below, by knitting into the stitch below the next stitch, and slipping both sts off the needle together); p1. Repeat from * to end of round.
2nd round: * K1; P1B, (Purl one below). Repeat from * to end of round.

These 2 rounds form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 9inches from the beginning, ending with round 2.

Shape Crown as follows, keeping continuity of the pattern:
Editor's note: Ravelry knitter kellyincville noted that when you get to the k1/p1 rib used for these decreases, the ribbing is noticeably tighter than the the fisherman's rib. I regarded this as part of the crown pattern, which is only just visible in the photo, but she points out that you could go up a size on the needles to compensate.

Next round: (K3tog; p1,k1,p1) 11 times; k2tog. [45 sts]
Next 3 rounds: K1, p1, rib to last st, k1. [45 sts]
Next round: (K3tog; p3tog) 7times; k3tog. [15 sts]
Next 3 rounds: K1, p1, rib to last st, k1. [15 sts]
Next round: (K3tog; p3tog) twice; k3tog. [5 sts]
Next round: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1. [5 sts]

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends, and turn back brim as required.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

Simply work out how many sts you need to cast on according to your own gauge eg divide the number of sts by 16 and multiply by the number of sts you knit to 4 inches.
To work in Fisherman's rib, you need an even number of stitches.

A word on the wool.

If you work in pure wool you may need more than my stated quantities of yarn. Fisherman's rib is a very yarn-hungry stitch which produces a satisfying elasticated bulky fabric, by effectively knitting the yarn double, (nice and warm!).

Original pattern called for 3 x 50g balls Patons Husky Chunky, which is a pure wool chunky; the blend I used, no doubt, has a better yardage.
Patons Husky Chunky knitted to a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 40g balls of vintage Argyll Ferndale Shetland Chunky (an acrylic and wool blend).

Size 6 (5mm) and circular needle - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 2 inches on No 6 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

There is a lot of give in the ribbed stitch, making the sizing very flexible.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Moss and Blackberry Stitch Hat

MossHat.jpg

A 1970s hat using blackberry stitch, with a moss stitch brim. George did not think this was very "manly", but I leave that artistic decision to you, [George has also had experience of "life on the ocean wave" and says that as long as it's warm it will be welcome].

Instructions

With No. 6 (5mm) circular needle cast on 89 stitches, and work in rounds of k1, p1, moss stitch for 3 inches. Increase 7sts evenly across the last row. [96 sts]

Change to No. 4 (6mm) circular needle and work pattern as follows:

[Editor's note: this pattern (blackberry stitch) is worked over groups of 4 sts, and the hat is knitted up from the wrong side throughout.]

1st round: (wrong side) Knit.
2nd round: * P3tog; (k1,p1,k1) into the next st. Repeat from * to end of round.
3rd round: as first
4th round: * (k1,p1,k1) into the next st; p3tog. Repeat from * to end of round.

These 4 rows form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 8½ inches from the beginning, ending with round 4.

Shape Top as follows, keeping continuity of the pattern:

Next round: K1 *k2, k2tog. Repeat from * to last st., k1. [72 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds 2, 3 and 4.
[Editor's note: You can't keep the pattern bobbles in line with the previous work during the decreasings; just make the bobbles evenly across the rounds as before.]

Next round: *K2tog, k1. Repeat from * to end of round. [48 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds.
Next round: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. [24 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds.
Next round: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. [12 sts]
Work 1 round.

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

Simply work out how many sts you need to cast on according to your own gauge eg divide the number of sts by 18 and multiply by the number of sts you knit to 4 inches.
To work in moss stitch, you need to use an odd number of sts and work k1,p1 on every round.

Do the same calculation when increasing for the blackberry stitch, taking note that your number of sts needs to be divisible by 4.

Example: I have a gauge of 18 sts to 4 inches on no UK 6 (5mm) needles.
You have a gauge of, say, 15 sts to 4 inches (that is: your wool is thicker than mine).

Cast on 89 sts becomes 89/18*15 = 74, and you cast on 75, as it needs to be an odd number.

Increase evenly to 96 sts becomes 96/18*15 = 80.
For this hat, you need the number of stitches picked up to be divisible by 4, and 80 is exactly divisible by 4 so you are OK.
If not add or subtract a couple of sts until you get a number divisible by 4.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2x 50g balls of vintage Richard Poppleton Emmerdale Chunky Tweed (an acrylic and wool blend).

Size 6 (5mm) and size 4 (6mm) circular needles - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 9st to 2 inches on No 6 needles.

Size matters

This hat worked out to about 22 inches head circumference. My estimate is that "to fit an average sized head" means 22/23 inches for a man's size and 20-22 inches for a woman's size.
See "altering the size" below.

A word on the wool.

Original pattern called for Patons Husky Chunky, which was, I think a pure wool chunky, somewhat bulkier than the one I used.
It knitted to a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches. However, the implied hat size was very large, so I have not altered the original pattern sts according to my gauge, but have allowed the hat to knit up slightly smaller than the original.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Cable Band Hat

CableBandHat.jpg

This 1970s style hat is constructed by knitting a cabled band and then picking up stitches to knit the rest of the hat - which in this example is ribbed. This version is is not intended to have a turned back brim; if you want one, then you must knit the rib section longer; you will not have to reverse any workings as the rib section is reversible, so could be worn either way out. The single layer construction is very economic on yarn; For my wool/acrylic blend, I used 58g.

Instructions

With No. 5 (5½mm) needles cast on 11 stitches, and work in cable pattern as follows:
[Editor's note: I cast on with waste wool, so I could remove it later and graft the ends of the band together.]

1st row: (wrong side) K3, p6, k2.
2nd row: P2, k6, p1, k2.
Repeat 1st and second rows twice more, then the 1st row again.

8th row: (right side facing) P2, cable 6 (slip the first 3 sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work; k3, then k3 from cable needle); p1, k2.

9th - 14th rows: Repeat 1st and second rows 3 times.

Repeat 1st - 14th rows 8 times more (9 patterns in all) ending with row 13. Graft the sts to the cast-on edge to form a circular band, [or cast off the 11 sts and sew the cast-on to the cast-off edge].

[Editor's note: If you want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, now is the time to do it. Lengthen or shorten this band to the circumference you want to achieve. See "altering the size" below.]

One edge of the band has a neat "finished" garter st edging and the other has a reverse stocking stitch edge, which you will use to continue knitting the hat in the round.
Change to number 6 (5mm) circular needle and, with right side of work facing, pick up 92 sts evenly around the reverse stocking stitch edge.

Work in rounds of k2, p2 rib for 5 inches (about 28) rows.

Shape Crown as follows:

1st round: *K2tog, p2. Repeat from * to end of round.
2nd round: *K1, p2. Repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat rounds 2 five times more.

8th round: *K1, p2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: *slip1, k2tog, pass the slipped st over; p1. Repeat from * to end of round.

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

This pattern relies on making an even number of cables around the hat, so to lengthen or shorten the band, you can either add in whole or partial pattern repeats, or, if you feel up to it, you could alter the number of rows in the pattern repeat of the cable.

Test your gauge before you start and work out how many rows you need to make your chosen head circumference size. Start by dividing the number of rows you calculate by 14, and then try some other numbers, eg 12, 16, 13, or 15, until you are close to getting an exact number of patterns. [Note that if you choose to work to an uneven number of rows in the repeat, then you will end up doing your cable operations on purl rows, which is quite feasible, but approach with caution if your are a beginner in this field!]

If the above all sounds hopeless to you, then just knit until the band is the length you require, and just sew the ends of the band together rather than trying to graft it. You could even work the hat on two needles instead of in the round, by picking up the stitches from the band before you sew it up, - and then, when you have finished, you sew a side seam into the hat, including the band.

Finally if you are altering the size, or compensating for a different gauge, you will probably need to pick up a different number of stitches from the band. I usually pick up a number of stitches equal to three quarters of the number of rows I have knitted.
Example: I knitted 9 pattern repeats of 14 rows which equals 126 rows in total. Then 126*3/4 = 94.5.
For this hat, you need the number of stitches picked up to be divisible by 4, and I chose to pick up 92sts. I could equally have chosen 96.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2x 50g balls of vintage Richard Poppleton Emmerdale Chunky Tweed (an acrylic and wool blend).

Two size 5 (5½mm) needles and a size 6 (5mm) circular needle - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 9st to 2 inches on No 6 needles.

Size matters

This hat worked out to about 22 inches head circumference. My estimate is that "to fit an average sized head" means 22/23 inches for a man's size and 20-22 inches for a woman's size.
See "altering the size" below.

A word on the wool.

Original pattern called for Patons Double plus, which was a double knitting wool, and the instructions were to knit the yarn double, producing a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches.
The hat was "unisex" but shown modelled on a woman.
I have compensated for changing the wool, and made the hat slightly larger - my own version is printed here, not the original.
The original instructions were to knit 8 pattern repeats for the band, and to pick up 86 sts for the hat, which was not knitted in the round.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2008

Mittens for the Forces

Forces_mittens.jpg

These are double layered mittens which have suddenly become popular again (probably more the height of fashion a year or so ago - as well as half a century ago). This pattern is from February 1940. Here the thumb is left free; in some designs of this era, the thumb and forefinger are left free - your "trigger finger " I assume.
"The glove mitts are a sensible idea, ensuring both warmth and freedom of movement. Instructions are given for both men's and women's sizes".
The different sizes are achieved by using different wool weights and needles.

Instructions (both hands alike)

Using No. 14 (2mm) needles cast on 48 stitches, and work in k2, p2 rib in rounds for 2½ inches.

Next row: Knit twice into every stitch.

Now slip every alternate stitch (ie every "made" stitch) on to No 12(11) needles and leave the original 48 sts on the No14 needles on the outside of the work.

[Editor's note: The original instructions expect you to continue to knit on the larger needles, leaving the outer sts on the No 14 needles. I found this very awkward; I thought it would improve as I got further up the glove but it did not.
So I took the trouble, after I had slipped the sts as shown, to thread the outer sts onto waste yarn (slippery yarn, as the Tweed wool is felty), and then when I had finished the inner glove, rethread them back on to the 14 needles.]

Continue on the No 12(11) needles, on the "made" sts, in rounds of plain knitting, and work 2 rows straight.

3rd round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last st, knit twice into it.
Knit 2 rounds.

6th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 2sts, knit twice into next st, k1.
Knit 2 rounds.

9th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 3sts, knit twice into next st, k2.
Knit 2 rounds.

Continue in this way, increasing on every 3rd row at either side of the thuumb, until there are 66 sts on the needles.

Divide for thumb
Next round: K8; leave next 50 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 8 sts of round. [20sts]

Continue on these 20 sts for 22 rounds.
Next round: K2tog all round.
Next round: Knit
Next round: K2tog all round.
Draw thread through remaining sts and fasten off.

Rejoin wool to continue with the main part of the mitten:
remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base of the thumb, then knit the 50 sts from the holder. [54sts]

Work 18 rounds straight on these 54 sts.

Divide for fingers
Next round (forefinger): K10; leave leave next 38 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 6sts of round. [20sts]

Work 3 rounds straight on these 20 sts, then work 4 rounds k1, p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Next round (middle finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base forefinger. Knit first 6 sts from holder; cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; slip the last 6 sts on holder onto a needle and knit them. [20sts]

Complete as for forefinger.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base third finger, and knit the remaining 14 sts from holder. [18sts]

Work as before over these 18 sts.

Over-mitten
Now return to sts left on the No 14 needles at the wrist.
[Editor's note: Or - thread the sts on the spare wool back on to the No 14 needles.]
Join in the wool at the beginning of the round, (base of the thumb), and with No 11 (10) needles, work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), for 5 inches.

Next row (right side facing): K2tog; k21; k2tog; k21; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.
7th row: K2tog; knit to centre; k3tog; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.

Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing as for 7th row on every 6th row until 37 sts remain.
Work 3 rows straight.
Then decrease in the same way on every row until 9 sts remain.
Cast off.

Making up
Press stocking-stitch portions with a damp cloth. Darn in all ends. Insert zip down side of outer mitten, starting at top and ending with the pull just above the thumb; join the remainder of seam across top of fingers. The edges of the outer mitten should fit nicely round the thumb; finish these with a row of double crochet.

Mit_zips.jpg

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 25g balls Rowan 4ply Tweed.

Set of 4 each of numbers 14, 12 and 11 (UK size) needles for the smaller size, and 14, 11 and 10 for the larger size.
A number 12 crochet hook.

Two 4-inch zip fasteners.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 1 inch

Rowan 4ply tweed tension: 28st and 40rows to 4 inches (10cm) using No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit size 6¼-7, or 7½-8½ inch hand.

A word on the wool.

Original calls for 2oz 3 ply for girl's size [sic] and 3oz 4ply for man's size.
I have often read that older 3 or 4 ply wools were thicker than 3 or 4 plies of today; I have not really noticed that before in practice - however I think a large man's mitten could be knitted in guernsey 5ply or a light weight DK, like Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 



Balaclava.jpg
This 'good old Balaclava helmet' was included in the item "More Knitteds for the Forces".
I know - they are nice and warm - and they can be useful on the slopes - but I'm given to understand that beanies are more the thing currently, so I have spared you the details!
Let me know if, (your imagination no doubt fired by the hunk on the left), you want to knit it.

I'm afraid I also have to report that George says these are the silliest mittens he has ever had. Good thing he was not called upon to be in the Home Guard 50 or more years ago, eh?.

February 2008

Chunky Honeycomb Scarf

Honeycomb_scarf2.jpg

"Reversible scarf for the cold days ahead". This is a very pleasing pattern from October 1963, and is a suggestion for "pre-Christmas plans". The pattern is the same on both sides, so great for a scarf, and can be knitted in basically any wool weight; ensure you use needles a couple of sizes larger than normal for whichever weight you choose, and do a proportional calculation on the gauge, so your scarf is not too wide.

Instructions

Cast on 73 stitches.

First row: K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat this row for the moss stitch border 8 times more.

10th (increase) row: Moss 8, (increase in the next st, moss 6) 8 times; increase in the next st, moss 8. [82 sts]

Change to pattern rows as follows:

1st row: moss 5, p3, *k6, p6; repeat from * to last 14sts; k6, p3, moss 5.
2nd row: moss 5, k3, *p6, k6; repeat from * to last 14sts; p6, k3, moss 5.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

11th row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
12th row: as first.
13th row: as second.
14th row: as first.
Repeat the 13th and 14th rows 4 times more.

23rd row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
24th row: as second.

These 24 rows form the pattern. Continue straight until the work measures 46 ins, ending with a 12th or 24th pattern row.

detail

Next (decrease) row: moss 8 *k2tog; (p1, k1) 3 times; p2tog, repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog; (p1, k1) 4 times. [73sts].

Work 9 rows moss stitch over all stitches.
Cast off.

Finishing - Press work very lighty, taking care not to spoil th texture of the patttern. Cut the remainig wool into 7½ inch lengths; take 3 lengths of wool together each time, fold in half, and, with a crochet hook, knot through short ends to make a fringe. Trim fringe.

Substituting the wool - I used a vintage wool, Phildar Brisants. This is a fine double knitting, which is normally knitted on no. 9 (3¾mm) needles. The cabling make for a tighter tension, and the recommended needles (UK No 6) are 2 sizes larger than usual for a DK. I went with no. 8 needles, instead of 9s, but should have gone larger I think.
My scarf measures less than the 12 inches wide of the original; I knitted to the length I wanted.

If you want to use chunkier wool, then decrease the number of sts proportionally. The pattern is worked over 12sts.

Materials

Original call for 9oz of Patons Moorland Double Knitting

Example shown is knitted in Phildar Brisants.

One pair of No. 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to 20st and 26rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width: 12 inches
Length: 46 inches

A word on the wool.

This pattern is for double knitting wool, and from memory Moorland DK was slightly heavy-weight.
You can knit a scarf in anything you want - obviously - see "Substituting the wool".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Honeycomb_scarf.jpg

January 2008

Sleeping socks are so cosy

SleepSocks2.jpg

Three offerings this month: this first pattern from 1968 is very similar in design (and the principle of the stretchy fit) to the second offering, Boudoir Boots; however these socks are knitted in a different (more conventional) orientation. They particularly appeal to me, being very jolly, knitted in stripes, (although, as a general rule, I prefer my socks wide awake...).

Instructions

Make two socks alike.

Main body - With main shade (M) cast on 56 stitches, and arrange across 3 needles (19 on each). Work as follows:

Rib round: k5, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Repeat this round 10 times more.

**
Round 12: purl to end.
Round 13: k5, purl to end.
Round 14: purl to end.
Round 15: k5; join in contrast colour (C) and knit to the end of the round: turn. [Editor's note: in other words, knit a short round].
Round 16: continuing with C, purl to the last 5sts; turn.
Do not break C, but pick up M.
Row 17: using M knit the C sts of the previous round to end.
**

Repeat from ** to ** 13 times more, and then work the 12th, 13th and 14th pattern rows again

Break C.

Work the toe - Continuing in M only, re-arrange the sts over the 3 double pointed needles as follows:
Toe foundation round - needle one: k1, k2tog, k14. [16 sts]
Toe foundation round - needle two: k the last 2 sts from the first needle, then k19 from the second needle, then k7 from the third needle. [28sts]
Toe foundation round - needle three: k the last 12sts from the third needle [12sts].

You now have 56 sts in the round.
Knit 3 rounds. Begin decreasing for the toe:

Next round: knit to the last 3 sts on the first needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1. Beginning the second needle, k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts on the second needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1. Beginning the third needle, k1, k2tog, knit to end of round, [52 sts].
Next round: knit.

Continue to decrease on every alternate round in this way until 24 sts remain. [8 on the first needle, 12 on the second needle, 4 on the third needle].
Knit the first 8sts from the first needle so that the wool is at the decrease edge of the toe. Do not cast off, but break off wool leaving a tail long enough for grafting (sewing up).

Making up - slip the last 4sts of the round on to the first needle and graft the two sets of 12 sts together to make the toe.
Darn in the ends.

SleepSocks1.jpg

Materials

Original pattern calls for a total of 2 (1oz) balls of 4ply - 1 ball in each colour.

One set of 4 double pointed No 11 needles.

Tension

30st and 38 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

Original knitted in Patons 101 Courtelle Crepe in "Venus blue" and "Starlight white".

Example knitted in Phildar Lambswool (51% wool, 49% acrylic), colours rouge and melon.

Tutorial on grafting or Kitchener Stitch.

Boudoir Bedroom Boots

Boudoir_boots.jpg

Second pattern this month from an "Oddments" leaflet for "using up old Scraps of Wool", dating anywhere between the 1930s and the 1950s. Described originally as Lady's Bedsocks*, I hope they will prove to be the perfect partner for Boudoir Bedjacket.

*One of the other patterns was called "Bedroom Boots" and I couldn't resist the alliteration; however, this pattern described here makes footwear that is much more elegant than either "bedsocks" or "boots" implies. They look at their best when on the feet, (as opposed to just after you have knitted them, when they look like a pair of unattractive caterpillars). It is hard for me to date the design, as many patterns were reproduced out of their true era; possibly an expert on publishing could be more accurate.

Instructions

Each sock is worked in one piece. Make two alike.

Commence at the front edge. Using No. 12 needles, cast on 64 stitches, and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No. 6 needles.

**
Row 1: (right side) Knit twice into every stitch. [128 sts].
Row 2: Sl.1, purl to the last st, k1.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch (k 1 row, p 1 row).
Row 7: *K2tog; repeat from * to end of row. [64 sts].
Work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib. **
This completes a 12 row pattern.
Repeat from ** to ** twice and then from ** until you have completed the 7th pattern row.

Change to No. 12 needles. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up - Press each piece lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Join the cast on and cast off edges together, then continue the seam, stitching up one end for the toe.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, work a picot edge all around the top of each of the socks, as follows:

One slip st to secure the yarn to the top front edge.
*3ch, 1dc into the first of these chain, miss 1 st, 1 slip st into the next st. Repeat from * around each top.

Embroidery
Using the contrasting wool, work pairs of chain stitches, (or a kind of "lazy daisy" stitch) in a "V" shape down each front seam.
[Editor's note: The link above is to Sharon Boggon's lovely site "In a minute Ago". She is an artist who is interested in the connections between textiles and digital technology, and has created a wonderful site, full of interesting information (and a blog!)]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2oz of 4ply, and a small quantity of contrast for embroidery.
Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, in colour 007.

One pair each of number 12, an No 6 needles.

Tension

20st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 6 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

Baby Cashmerino is heavier than a 4ply, knitting to a tension of 25st and 34 rows to 4 inches. Thus I used more yarn than the original pattern. Each 50g is 125m, and I used 90g.

Boudoir_boots2.jpg

As a variation (or to "use up old scraps of wool") you might choose to make the picot edging in the contrast colour to match the embroidery - I believe this would work better if the contrast were darker than the main colour.
Alternatively, if you are not confident in your embroidery skills (I found it harder than I had imagined) you could stick with a single colour and embroider in the main yarn; this provides a more sophisticated look - if indeed a bedsock can be said in any way to contribute to a sophisticated look!

Feather-light Boudoir Slippers - from only one ounce of wool

Third and final pattern is totally untested, from a magazine dated November 1968 [ "Ideas for Gifts"]. They really are called "boudoir slippers" which, apart from any other consideration, makes me feel that the pattern dates from longer ago than 1968. As a teenager, I would have found these indescribably awful; however, luckily, I did not have relatives who were handy with the old needles.
Likely to remain untested as a girl can have only so many bedsocks.
[Should any readers admit to making this pattern, please submit a photo of the result for me to display here!]

Instructions

Each sock is worked in one piece. Make two alike.

Cast on 76 stitches, and work as follows:

Row 1: k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2: k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.

Repeat these rows for 6½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Change to No. 12 needles. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up - Fold cast-on edge to cast-off edge and join side seams. (Seams form heel and toe).

Crochet edging - Starting at the heel, crochet eyelets all around the edge as follows: - 3ch, * 1dc in next stitch, 1ch, miss next st; repeat from * all round. Join with slip stitch to 3ch at the beginning.

Then work a row of picots thus: - * 3ch, 1 slip st into the first of these chain, 1 slip st into the 1ch space of the previous round; repeat from * all round. Fasten off

With wool double, crochet a chain cord for each sock and thread through holes; make and sew a small tassel to each end.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 1 (1oz) ball of Patons Beehive Baby Wool in 3ply.

One pair of number 11 needles.
Crochet hook

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

It is fairly easy to acquire 3ply Baby wool to knit up to this tension.

November 2007

Cosy covers - Sixties retro

Cosy_cover_sixties.jpg

This is my modern version of a hot-water bottle cover. The cover is designed to fit a microwavable hot pad - link for this under "materials". The pads are conveniently small, and much safer (to lie on) than a hot-water bottle.
The pattern stitch from 1968 was used for a tea-cosy (colours Jade, Pink, and White), and a cushion cover (colours Brown, Amber, and White). I think the cushion cover, (style and colour scheme), is more authentically late 60s that the cosy. Although a tea cosy was de rigeur in our house, I think tea bags with and without the use of tea pots was becoming more prevalent by that time.

Instructions

With No. 11 needles and main colour (red), cast on 58 stitches.
Knit 4 rows in garter stitch (every row knit), then one row purl.
Do not break off the main colour (red).

**Change to number 10 needles and commence pattern as follows, using second colour (orange):

Row 1: (right side) *K4, slip 2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4.
Row 2: *P4, slip 2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, P4.
Row 3 and 4: As rows 1 and 2.
Break orange wool, and continue in red.
Row 5: knit
Row 6: purl
Row 7: Using the third colour (yellow) K1, *slip 2, K4; repeat from * to last 3sts, slip 2, K1.
Row 8: P1, *slip 2, P4; repeat from * to last 3sts, slip 2, P1.
Row 9 and 10: As rows 7 and 8.
Break yellow wool, and continue in red.
Row 11: knit
Row 12: purl

Rows 13-24: repeat rows 1-12.
Rows 25-30: repeat rows 1-6.

Change to number 11 needles and continue in garter stitch for 15 rows. Purl one row.**

Repeat from ** to ** three times, then rows 1-30 again.

Change to number 11 needles and work in garter stitch for 4 rows. Cast off.

Making up - Press the piece lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Fold the cover to form a bag as shown in the picture, and sew up the side edges, on the inside, either oversewing or with backstitch.
Sew in all the ends on the wrong side.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, (red), work a dc edge around the flap of the cover with ties as follows:

With right side facing, starting at the side edge, work 6 dc up edge of the garter st band, 15 dc up the honeycomb edge, 2dc up to corner, 3 dc into the corner st.
Then work across the cast-off edge making 2 dc into every 3 cast off sts approximately. After the first 6 dc (or where you want to place a tie) work the first tie by making 40 chain, then working 1dc into each chain back down to the knitted edge. Continue to work dc into the cast-off sts, making a second tie in the centre of the flap, after approximately 14 dc. Work another 14 dc and make another tie (match the position of the first tie). Work to the edge, 3dc into the corner st and then finish to match the other side of the flap.
Fasten off.

Work 3 more ties by making 40 chain, then working 1 row of dc into each chain. Sew the ties on to the cover to match the positions of the ties on the flap.
[Editor's note: If you want to avoid the crochet altogether you could sew on ribbon ties in the appropriate places.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for three contrast colours, (red, orange and yellow).
Example shown is knitted in 4 ply - 1 x 50g ball of each colour.

One pair each of number 10, an No 11 needles.
Crochet hook.

One hot water bottle "replacement core", (available to order on the web).

Tension

The wool should knit to a basic tension over st st of 28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

A word on the wool.

I used Phildar Lambswool (a 4 ply wool/acrylic mix) left over from another project.

Here is a version adapted for a light worsted cotton yarn (Rowan Cotton Glace). For this version, cast on 52 sts.

Cosy_cover_sixties2.jpg

Cosy covers - Fifties retro

Cosy_cover_red.jpg

This is a pattern from 1956 "reversible bottle-cover" (sic) - though why the quotes, why the hyphen, and why the description reversible, I really am not sure. Originally a cover for a hot-water bottle, I have adapted it to fit a microwavable pad. The knitting turned out to be an interesting shape, and in consequence made for an interesting pattern, (probably not as intended). I used a bright red and white combination, which reminded me of a 1950s accessory set. The original recommended colours were "powder blue and white".
In the days when pattern illustrations were not in colour, the colour names were much more vivid and descriptive; modern names tend to try and evoke an emotion rather than a colour. I do love reading these old patterns with the colours - "lipstick red" "primrose yellow" "mimosa" "frosty lime" - you could just eat them - a feast for the mind's eye.

Instructions

First piece - with No. 11 needles and first colour, cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: Inc in every st (8 sts)
Row 2: K3, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K3 (10 sts)
Row 3: Inc, K3, inc in next 2 sts, K3, inc. (14 sts)
Row 4: K6, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K6 (16 sts)
Row 5: Inc, K6, inc in next 2 sts, K6, inc. (20 sts)
Row 6: K9, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K9 (22 sts)

With the right side facing for row 7 place a row marker on this side of the work, to mark it as the right side of the work.

Then continue working as before, increasing at both ends of the row, and in the middle, on odd (right side) rows; increase only in the middle on even (wrong side) rows.

After a while, the stitches will become crowded and the shape hard to manage on just 2 needles. At this point, spread the sts evenly across two needles, discarding the centre st marker; continue to work back and forth across the needles using a third needle.

The work will take on a triangular, or arrow shape.
[Editor's note: The original pattern is intended to form a triangle, I could not make this happen - the wool I used may have a different rows:sts ratio than the one recommended. This shape and resulting cover is flexible and should suit whatever wool you use.]

Continue working until you have 105 sts on each side of the centre.
Leave the completed piece to one side without casting off. Do not break off the wool.
[Editor's note: The original pattern was intended for a hot water bottle. They advised to knit until there are 139sts with the 3 ply wool. The base of the triangle has to be long enough to wrap around your hot water bottle or heated pad; you can choose to stop knitting when you feel it is wide enough.]

Second piece - work a second triangle (or arrow) in the contrast colour.

Lay the pieces out with the point of one arrow to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below).

Continue working with one of the available colours (I used the red). Cast off the two rows of knitting together, using a "three-needle cast off"(see picture below), fairly tightly.

[Editor's note: You put your working needle into the first st on the front needle and the first st on the second needle behind; you pull your loop through and knit both sts off the needles together. You have one st on your working (usually right hand) needle. You repeat so there are two sts on your working needle. You pass the first st you knitted over the second; continue casting off in this way.]

This is how it looks half way through; ideally the work should lie flat at the cast off edge:

Next you put the other two edges together - again the point of one arrow is next to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below):

Cast off the two rows together. You are left with a sort of tube; turn it so that the cast off edges are inside. The next picture shows a hot water bottle placed in the tube.

The arrow points are arranged centre front and back.

Fold up one of the ends and sew the diagonal seams in place from the wrong side. (I sewed the tip of my white arrow for the closed end). At the other end, make a chain using the crochet hook and sew in place as a loop for the button at the (red) arrow tip.
Place your "replacement core" in the cover and fold over the top of the cover to an appropriate position and mark the place for the closing button.
Make a crochet flower to act as a button, and sew in place.
[Editor's note: You know ho to make a crochet flower without instructions don't you?
O, all right then; this is what I did...]

Crochet flower - begin by making a slip loop with your first colour as if you were starting a crochet chain, and crochet into this loop for your first round. Ensure that the loop "slips" (can be tightened) from the tail end of your work, not the working end.

Round 1: using the first colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: chain 3, (1 htr 1ch) into each of the 8 dc then ss join to the first 3ch.
Round 3: 1dc into first chain space, (3ch, 1dc into next ch sp) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Make a second flower in the second colour.

Round 1: using the second colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: ss into first dc, (3ch, ss into next 1dc) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Place second flower on top of first, and sew through both layers, onto the cover at the marked position for the button.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2 oz each of two contrast colours in 3ply.
Example shown is knitted in 4 ply - 1 x 50g ball of each colour.

One pair of number 11 needles, with a spare pair (or set or 4) to aid in the construction.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

One hot water bottle "replacement core", (available to order on the web).

Tension

Garter stitch is difficult to measure but the wool should knit to a basic tension over st st of 28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

A word on the wool.

I used an acrylic 4ply; not ideal, but these covers can take some wear and tear.

January 2007

Boudoir Bedjacket.

bedjacket.jpg

Knitted in a combination of wools, ribbon, and a linen yarn, of various weights using the basic shape of a double knitting pattern. The length is short to allow for sitting in bed.

Instructions

Knitted to a basic shape as follows:

Back - cast on 88 sts. Knit in your own pattern for 7 or 8 inches.
Cast off 10 stitches at each side for the armhole.
Knit until armhole measures 8 inches.
Cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Cast off remaining sts.

Right front - cast on 36 sts. Knit to pattern increasing 1st at the beginning of every alternate row until there are 44 sts. (This forms a curved front edge).
Continue to knit for 7 or 8 inches to match the back ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 sts at the beginning of the next wrong side row.
Knit until armhole measures 6 inches, (about 12 rows fewer than the back), ending with right side facing. Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of next row (the neck edge); then decrease 1 st at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 23 sts remain, ending at the armhole edge.
With wrong side facing, cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work one row and then cast off remaining sts.

Left front - work to match the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves - cast on 56 sts and work for 2 inches, then increase 1 st at each end of next and every following 6th row to 76 sts. Work straight to 15 inches from beginning. Cast off.

Crochet border - a simple row of double crochet and then a crochet shell pattern (1 dc; miss 2; 5 tr into next stitch; miss 2; then repeat).

Make up - sew shoulders and side seams. Set sleeves into the armholes, placing 2 ins at the sleeve top to the cast off sts at the underarm, and sewing up the sleeve seams.
Crochet a border all around front edges and cuffs.
Attach a cord or ribbon to the neck edge to tie.

Materials

Self-styled free form pattern, knitting a mixture of rows in plain and purl, using wools from 4ply through to a chunky boucle and including ribbon yarn.

Tie made from twisted cord or ribbon.

Size matters

Tension (average over different yarn weights):
22st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 8 (4mm) needles.
The instructions knit up to approximately a 32/34inch chest.

Close up of the pattern detail:

pattern detail.jpg


December 2006

Father George’s slippersocks

Men's slippersocks in 2 colours. I have also knitted a 3 colour version to use up wool oddments. I did try to knit these completely in the round to avoid seams but found it almost impossibly complex to do the fair-isle over only half the round - so I would stick to the instructions as given

Instructions

With No. 12 needles and main shade (M) cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.
Work in k3, p3 rib for 8 rows.
Change to number 10 needles.

Commence pattern as follows:

Rnd 1: Change to contrast colour (C) and knit all sts.
Rnds 2-8: Work in k3, p3 rib, as set.
Rnd 9: Change to colour M and knit all sts.
Rnds 10-12: Work in k3, p3 rib, as set.
Rnd 13: Joining in colour C, *k1 M, k1 C; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 14: *k1 C, k1 M; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 15-16: Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Rnd 17: Continue with M only, *k3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * to end. [Editor's note: this strange row is a k3 p3 rib avoiding purl sts while changing colour].
Rnds 18-20: Work in k3, p3 rib, as previously set.

These 20 Rows form the pattern.

Work top of foot as follows:

Break off M and slip the first 16 sts of the round on to a spare dpn, and slip the last 13 sts on to a second spare dpn. [Editor's note: these can be your No. 12 needles if required].
Continue knitting on the centre 31 sts over 2 No. 10 needles in shade C; commence the pattern rows as before, adjusting the pattern as follows:

Row 1: Using C knit all sts.
Row 2: p2, * k3, p3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: k3, p2.
Row 3: k2, * p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: p3, k2.
Row 4: as row 2.
Continue with the rib, working a single knit row every time you change colour. Set the fair-isle pattern as follows:
Row 13: Join in C, *k1 M, k1 C; repeat from * to last st, k1 M.
Row 14: *p1 C, p1 M; repeat from * to last st, p1 C.
Rows 15-16: Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Row 17: Using M only: k1, p1, *k3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts: k3, p1, k1.
Row 18: k2, * p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: p3, k2.
Work 2 more rib rows in M to complete the 20 row pattern.

Now work one more pattern set of 20 rows, and then the first 8 rows again, decreasing 1st at the end of the last row, (30 sts).
[Editor's note: make any measurement adjustments here].

Shape toe:

Using M only, continue in stocking stitch, (one row knit, one row purl), decreasing 1 st (k2 tog) at each end of the next, and every alternate row, until 14 sts remain. Leave these sts on a safety pin.

Make the heel:

Return to the remaining 29sts; place both sets together on one needle, and continue to work on them in st st, using colour M.
Next row: k2tog tbl, k12, inc in next st, k12, k2tog. (28 sts)
[Editor's note: this instruction increases a stitch by knitting into the front and back of a st. This produces a tiny bar, visible across the newly created st. If you want an invisible increase then you "make 1" by picking up the strand between two sts and knitting into the back of it - this twists the strand and keeps the new st tight. This type of increase is often used for berets or tams as it is completely invisible; you cannot hide a decrease in the same way. If you use this method here then the row above will read:
Next row: k2tog tbl, k12, make 1 st, k13, k2tog. (28 sts)].

Next row: purl.
Continue decreasing one st at each end of every alternate row, until 14 sts remain.
Now begin to increase one st at each end of every alternate row, until there are 30 sts.

Continue in st st until the foot is the same length as the top.
[Editor's note: remember any measurement adjustments you made before].
Shape toe as given for the top.

Making up.

Graft the two sets of 14 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting, otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Press the work lightly with a hot iron using a damp cloth.
Sew up the heel seams and the seams on the sides of the foot.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

2 x 50g skeins of main shade and 1 x 50g contrast in double knitting wool.

Two sets of 4 double pointed needles, Nos. 10 and 12.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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