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Archive entry for July 2015

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July 2015

Beach swim set

SwimSet.jpg

I have a weakness for blue and white so I find this very appealing. I note that they emphasise the firmness of the diamond stitch - whether this is for modesty or keeping its shape one cannot be certain.
I am not altogether sure of he relevance of the props - basket of grapefruit (tropical beaches?), an apparently woolly scarf ("gosh it's chilly in this photo studio"?).

Instructions.

Strand unused wool loosely across back of work.
L signifies Light yarn and D is Dark yarn.

Pattern rows as follows:
1st row: Knit, * 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 7L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
2nd row: Purl, 3D, * 4L, 1D,1L, 1D,1L, 1D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3D.
4th row: 3L, * 3D, 3L, (1D, 1L) 6 times, 2L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * 3L, 3D, 4L, (1D, 1L) 5 times, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3L.
6th row: 3L, * 3D , 5L, (1D, 1L) 4 times, 4L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * 3D, 3L , 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
8th row: 3D, * 3L, 3D, 4L , 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
9th row: As 7th.
10th row: As 6th.
11th row: As 5th.
12th row: As 4th.
13th row: As 3rd.
14th row: As 2nd.
15th row: As 1st.
16th row: 3L, * 2L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to end
17th row: * 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3L.
18th row: 3L * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
19th row: * (1D, 1L) 4 times, 2L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
20th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
21st row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 1D, 1L, 1D.
22nd row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 3L, (3D, 3L) 3 times; 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
23rd row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, (3D, 3L) 3 times, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
24th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, (3L, 3D) 3 times, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
25th row: As 21st.
26th row: As 20th.
27th row: As 19th.
28th row: As 18th.
29th row: As 17th.
30th row: As 16th.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

[Editor's note: You can see how the pattern looks in the photo and on the chart but the chart is an adapted version specially designed to be used for the top.]

Trunks (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 107 stitches and work 24 rows k1, p1 rib.
Purl 1 row
Change to No 10 needles and pattern in stocking stitch.
At the same time shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 8th row, 8 times, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made. [123 sts]

Work straight to the end of the 14th row of the 3rd pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping legs by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 6 sts at the beginning of the following 14 rows. [23 sts remain and 3 complete patterns have been worked].

Work 6 rows straight in L on these 23 sts.
Cast off.

Trunks (back)

Work waist ribbing exactly as for front.
Then work back shaping thus:
Next row: Rib 64, turn; rib 21, turn; rib 31, turn; rib 41, turn; rib 51, turn; rib 61, turn; rib 71; turn; rib 81, turn; rib to end.
Rib back over all stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and pattern and finish exactly as front.

Top (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 101 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and increase for bust thus:
Next row: p32, purl twice into each of next 9 sts, p19, purl twice into each of the next 9 sts, p32. [119 sts]

Continue straight in pattern, working from chart, and reading knit rows from right to left, purl rows from left to right. Your first 2 rows will read:
1st row: Knit, A to B, then (B to C) 4 times, then C to D.
2nd row: Purl, D to C, then (C to B) 4 times, then B to A.

Continue thus until 26th row of chart has been worked.

SwimSet.jpg

With right side facing, continue working chart, and at the same time shaping top by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 2, pattern 48, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first half of work, decreasing 1 stitch at centre
front on every row and casting off 2 sts at side edge at the beginning of every knit row until the 39th row of the chart has been worked and 24 sts remain.

Change to No 12 needles and continue in l.. wool only, casting off 3 sts
at the beginning of every row until all stitches are gone.

With right side facing join wool to remaining stitches at centre front; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first shoulder, reversing shapings.

Top (back)

Left Back:
With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 54 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and work 22 rows straight. With right side facing, shape back by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next 6 knit rows.

Right back: Work to correspond with left, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press all pieces well under a damp cloth.

TRUNKS: Join under-leg seam. With
L wool, right side facing, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 116 sts along each leg; work 1 inch k1, p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.
Join side seams.
Turn under 12 rows of the rib at the waist and hem to wrong side, leaving an opening for elastic.

TOP: With right side facing, L wool, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 54 sts along top of left back. Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off.
Work right back in the same way.

With right side facing, begin at left side of front and pick up and knit 45 sts to top of left point, 26 down to centre, 26 to top of right point and 45 sts down right side.
Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the top of each point on alternate rows.
Cast off.

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 9 sts and work 2 strips each 14 inches long in k1, p1 rib for ties. Sew in position, one at top
of each point.
Join side seams.
With right side facing and L wool, work 2 rows double crochet down each side of back opening, then a 3rd row down right
side, making 6 button loops.
Sew on buttons.
Press all seams.
Thread shirring elastic through ribbing round lower edge of top.

Materials

Patons Purple Heather Fingering
4 ply, 5 oz light shade and 3 oz dark shade.

A pair each Nos 10 (3¼mm), 12 (2¾mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.
No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

Six small buttons
Shirring elastic

Tension

34sts and 32 rows to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit 34 inch bust; 36 inch hips; length from waist to crutch, 13½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

1L or 1D: knit or purl in light or dark colour.

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

Patons Purple Heather was a standard 4 ply; however the stated tension seems rather tighter but may be taking account of the fair-isle pattern and stranding the wool across the back, which tends to make the work tight.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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