Pattern of the Month

Instructions

The scarf is worked on 4 needles in the round to make a tube, which is then flattened; the result is a flat scarf with two layers of knitted fabric, and means you don't have to worry about seeing the "wrong side" of the knitting. This is a standard way to make - especially commercial - scarves. Although often seen made in the round, both the hat and the gloves are worked flat on two needles, with a seam making them into the required round shape. It would be simple enough to adapt this pattern and make the hat in the round, especially as you have the method given for the scarf. If this is your first attempt at gloves, however, making them flat may be a good way to start.

Scarf

Using the set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or the circular needle - cast on 112 sts in Main Shade (A).
Work in rounds of stocking stitch (every round knit).

Pattern as follows:

**
1st and 2nd rounds: using B knit.
3rd and 4th rounds: using A knit.
5th and 6th rounds: using C knit.
7th and 8th rounds: using D knit.
9th and 10th rounds: using E knit.
11th - 23rd rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 1.
24th - 33rd rounds: repeat rows 1-10.
**
34th - 46th rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 2.

These 46 rounds form the pattern.
Repeat these rounds 10 times more, then the 1st to the 33rd rounds again.

Cast off using A.

To make up the Scarf

Darn in all ends on the wrong side.
Press gently under a damp cloth using a warm iron.
Turn the scarf right side out.
Cut yarn A into 20½ cm (8 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe through both thicknesses of both short ends at 1½ cm (½ inch) intervals.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a knitted tube, and you are now flattening it (to make the scarf double thickness); you then attach the fringe to each straight end, through both edges - which also serves to close the ends of the tube instead of sewing them together (but you might want to sew them anyway).]
Trim the fringe.

Hat

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on loosely 144 stitches. Work 20 rows K1/P1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [145 sts]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles. Continue in stocking stitch with the same pattern as given for the scarf but knitting back and forth in rows, not in the round. Work from ** to **, with every alternate row being purl. Then continue, repeating rows 1 - 10 only throughout.

Continue in pattern until work measures 18cm (7 inches) from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape the crown

Decrease for the crown, keeping the continuity of the striped pattern:
1st decrease row: k5, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k9) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k5. [121 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
2nd decrease row: k4, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k7) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k4. [97 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
3rd decrease row: k3, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k5) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k3. [73 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
4th decrease row: k2, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k3) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k2. [49 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
5th decrease row: (k2tog, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog) 7 times. [21 sts]
Purl one row.
Next row: (sl1, k2tog, psso) 7 times.
Break off yarn, and thread through remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Press as given for the scarf.
Join the centre back seam, taking care to reverse the seam on brim (which folds back).
Fold the brim in half to the right side.

Gloves

Note: When working the gloves, use separate balls of yarn for the palm and thumb, twisting the yarns at the back of the work when changing colours.

Right hand glove

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 56 stitches.
Work 26 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 11 (3 mm) needles, and beginning with a knit row work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Start thumb shaping:

1st row: using first ball of B, k28; using A, increase one stitch in each of the next 2 stitches, k1; using a 2nd ball of B, k25.
2nd row: using B, p25; using A, p5; using B, p28.
3rd row: using A, knit to end.
4th row: using A, purl to end.
5th row: using C, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k2, increase in the next stitch, k1; using C, K25.
6th row: using C, p25; using A, p7; using C, p28.
7th row: using D, k28; using A, k7; using D, k25.
8th row: using D, p25; using A, p7; using D, p28.
9th row: using E, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k4, increase in the next stitch, k1; using E, k25.
10th row: using E, p25; using A, p9; using E; p27, increase in the last stitch. [63 sts including 9 thumb sts]

Continue in pattern as given for chart, increasing the thumb stitches as before on the 3rd and then every foil 4th row until the 24th row has been completed, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.

Thumb:

Next row: using B, k28; using A, k16 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches. [20 sts]
***
Beginning with a knit row, work 18 rows in stocking stitch.

[Editor's note: For this method you keep all the stitches on the needles as you work the thumb and each finger separately. At this point for the thumb, you keep 28 stitches unworked on the right hand needle, and 25 stitches unworked on the left hand needle, while you work on the centre 16 stitches (which you have increased to 20 by casting on 2 extra stitches on each side. You knit the thumb flat, back and forth up to the tip, then you fasten off and sew it up into the thumb shape.]

Shape top:
Next row: (k2tog, k2) 5 times.
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 7 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
Join seam.

With right side of work facing and using B, knit up 4 stitches from the base of the thumb, knit to end. [57 sts]
[Editor's note: With right side facing, you have 28 stitches already on the right hand needle; you rejoin the yarn at the centre where the thumb is, and start by picking up the 4 stitches that you cast on, which are now wrapped round to meet at the base of the thumb. You then knit the 25 stitches on the left hand needle. Don't worry if you end up with small holes showing at the base of the thumb, (or, later, the fingers) as you can pull them in later when you sew in the ends from the join.]
Beginning with a purl row work one row in B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows D, 2 rows E and 4 rows A, ending with a purl row.
Continue in A only.

Divide for fingers:

1st finger
Next row: k36, turn and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows in stocking stitch on these 18 stitches.

Shape top:
**
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 4 times, k2. [14 sts]
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2 tog) 7 times.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
**
Join seam.

2nd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 1st finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 28 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete to match first finger, working from ** to **.
Join seam.

3rd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 2nd finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Complete to match 2nd finger.
Join seam.

4th finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 3rd finger, k6.
Beginning with a purl row, continue in stocking stitch across all remaining stitches for 19 rows.

Shape top
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 5 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
***

Left hand glove

Work as given for right hand glove, reversing the pattern and the position of thumb as follows:

1st row: using 1st ball of B, k25; using A, increase one stitch in each of
the next 2 stitches, k1; using 2nd ball of B, k28.

Continue as given for right hand glove until 24th row of pattern has been completed.

Thumb

Next row: using B, k24; using A, k16, turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18, turn and cast on 2 stitches.

Complete as given for right hand glove working from *** to ***.

To make up

Press as given for scarf.
Join side seam and 4th finger seam.

Materials

25g balls of 4 ply (fingering) yarn:

Scarf: 4 balls in main shade A
5 balls in contrast B
4 balls in contrast C
2 balls in contrast D
2 balls in contrast E

One set of 4 3¼mm (UK 10) double pointed needles (dpn), or a circular needle.

Hat and gloves:
3 balls in main shade A
1 ball in each of the contrast colours B, C, D, and E.

One pair of 3mm (UK 11), and one pair of 2¾mm (UK 12) needles

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on 3¼ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 20½ cm (8 inches) wide, by 183cm (72 inches) long, excluding the fringe
Hat: to fit an average adult head.
Gloves: to fit an average adult hand.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply superwash wool; about 92 yards (84 m) per 25g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Note: Muff and all white borders are worked using yarn doubled.

Muff

Pocket lining:
Using two strands of white yarn, cast on 31 stitches and work 5 inches straight in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Main Part:
Using two strands of red wool, cast on 49 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1, * k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1tbl, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row: k1, * p1, k1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
6th row: k1, * k1, p1tbl; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
7th and 8th rows: As 5th and 6th.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until work measures 3 inches.
Make pocket opening as follows:

Next row: Pattern 9, cast off 31, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 9, cast on 31, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 14 inches from start.
Cast off.

Borders:
Using two strands of white wool, cast on 11 stitches and
work as follows:
1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 4 times k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 13 inches.
Cast off in rib.
Make another piece the same.

Making up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Cut a piece of lining material to correspond with main part.

Join short sides of muff; insert pocket, joining top to 31 cast-off stitches, then catch down pocket neatly all round.
Sew zip into opening.
Join end of borders and sew in position (stretching slightly) at each end on top of main part.

Turn muff inside out. Wrap 2 layers of wadding round muff and join ends. Join short sides of lining material. Slip lining over wadding and hem neatly to main work just inside ends of muff.
Turn right side out; brush up white borders to look like fur using a wire brush.
[Editor's note: Given the choice of yarns available today, you might consider using a textured or furry yarn for the white borders - either a DK equivalent that you use double or a thicker yarn that knits to the right tension.

I seem to remember from my youth that muffs generally had a string attached to hang them round your neck so that you could have both hands free if necessary. I'm not sure if this was just because I was a child and was the equivalent to having your gloves on a string (threaded through your coat sleeves!), but it certainly would make it more practical if you planned to use it for more than skating expeditions.]

Cap

Using single strand of red wool, cast on 108 stitches and work 4½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Change to twisted rib and shape crown as follows:

1st row: * p1, k1 through back of loop; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p1tbl, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: (rib 16 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
4th row: Work in twisted rib as above.
5th row: (rib 15 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.
6th row: Work in twisted rib as above.
7th row: (rib 14 as before, k2togtbl) 6 times.

Continue in twisted rib decreasing 6 stitches in the same way on every
alternate row until 36 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [18 sts]
Next row: Purl.
Next row: k2tog all across. [9 sts]
Next row: Purl.

Break wool, draw through remaining stitches and fasten off.

Border:
Using two strands of white wool, make a border worked exactly as given for muff 17½ inches in length when slightly stretched.

Making up

Press lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join seam.
Fold under 2¼ inches of ribbing all round brim to wrong side and slip-hem in place.
Sew border all round hat on top of hem and brush up with a wire
brush as for muff.
Using white wool make a pom-pom and sew to top of hat.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 8 oz in Scarlet and 4 oz in white.

One pair of No 7 (4½mm) needles.

6-inch zip fastener.

White fabric to line muff, and 2 pieces of wadding for padding.

Tension

Cap: 24 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over twisted rib pattern using single strand of yarn.
Muff: 20 sts to 4 inches (10cm) over basket rib pattern using two strands of yarn.

Size matters

Cap to fit "an average head".
Muff measures 9½ inches in width.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k1tbl/p1tbl: knit/purl 1 stitch through back loop.

k2togtbl/p2togtbl: knit/purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.

Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in blackberry stitch (also known as trinity stitch) on 2 needles. The nature of this stitch means that the number of stitches can vary from row to row; this can seem a little puzzling as it means the instructions for the right and left hand gloves seem not to be symmetrical - but they should work out OK.

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

1st row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch; repeat from * to last st, k1.
3rd row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

These 4 rows form the basic pattern.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p32, k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) twice, p3tog, cast on 12 sts, turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.

Break off wool and run end through remaining sts.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

With wrong side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 22 sts, join in wool and knit up 12 sts from 12 cast-on sts at the base of the thumb; p19, k1 across remaining sts.
Commencing at 2nd row, repeat pattern on these 54 sts., until work measures 4 ins, from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p34, increase once in next stitch. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, cast on 2sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch in last row.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p14, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice,

Finish off as given for Thumb.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 2 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p5, increase in the next stitch. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) three times, p3tog, p1; cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then work exactly as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p5, k1.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; k1.
4th row: k1, p16, k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row three times, then 1st row once.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p12, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

The Frill

With wrong side of work facing, pick up 52 sts, from cast-on edge of glove. Join in wool.

1st row: k1, * k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
[Editor's note: I think they may mean garter stitch here - every row knitted.]

5th row: k1, * increase once in next st, repeat from * to last st, k1. [There should now be 52 sts. on needle].
6th row: k1, * k2, p1, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
7th row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
8th row: k1, * k2, p2, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
9th row: k1, * p2, k3, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
10th row: k1, * k2, p3, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
11th row: k1, * p2, k4, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
12th row: k1, * k2, p4, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Continue in this manner until there are 164 sts. on needle.

Next row: k1, * p2, k8, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Cast off knitways.

Left-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

Work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p31, cast on 11 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1. Turn

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Decrease and finish off as given for the Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 21 sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 11 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; p21, k1 across remaining stitches.

Continue in pattern on these 54 sts until wont measures 4 ins from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p35, cast on 5 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog, k1. Turn.

Then work exactly is given for First Finger of of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 5 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p6, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 3 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p6, k1.

Then work exactly as given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 12 (2¾ mm) needles.

Tension

3 patterns (12 sts) to 1 inch. Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5½ ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 8½ ins.

[Editor's note: 5½ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won: wool over needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

p3tog: purl 3 stitches together (decrease 2)

k1p1k1: knit and purl into front, then knit into back of next stitch (increase 2)

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in an openwork ladder stitch created by working "yarn over needle" or eyelets on every row.
It reminds me of string-vest patterns from the 1960s (very healthy) - but don't let that put you off...

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 80 sts

Work 2 rows in plain knitting.
3rd row: k1, * p1, won, k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat this row five times.
9th row: * k15, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
19th row: * k12, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
29th row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, * (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of row.
30th row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 30th row 6 times, increasing 2 sts in last row.

Repeat 3rd row thirty-two times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eleven times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) three times; k1; cast on 10 sts loosely. Turn.

Working on these 20 sts, repeat 3rd row twenty-two times (length of
Thumb and Fingers may be varied to suit individual requirements).

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k3, k2tog, k2togtbl, k3) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k2, k2tog, k2togtbl, k2) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

With right side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 25 sts, join in wool and knit up 10 sts from 10 cast-on sts at the base of the Thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1, won, k2 tog) four times, k1, across remaining 15 stitches.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k14, k2tog, k1.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern thirty times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-eight times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, k1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 14 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern eighteen times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2tog) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

Left-hand Glove:

Cast on 80 sts and work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eight times, p1, cast on 9 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) six times, k1. Turn.

Work on these 20 sts exactly as given for Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 15sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 9 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1,won, k2tog) 7 times, k1, across remaining 24 sts.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Second Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Third Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 14 sts, exactly is given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 13 (2¼ mm) needles.

Tension

10 sts to 1 inch over pattern (not stretched).
Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5 ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 9 ins.

[Editor's note: 5ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won/wfwd: wool over needle/wool forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions:

(Make two gloves alike)

Cast on 36 stitches, arrange evenly over 3 needles.
Join in a round, and begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * K3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
Repeat round 1 three more times.

5th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [30sts]
6th round: * K1, yon, k1, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
7th and 8th rounds: as 1st.

Repeat rounds 5 through 8 four times more times.

21st round: as 5th.
22nd round (increase): * K1, yon, k1, p1, yon, k1,p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

23rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
24th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
25th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
26th round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]
Repeat rounds 23 through 26 three times more times.

39th round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times.
Then: k3, p1, k1. Using waste yarn, knit the last 2 sts of the round.
Slip these 2 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn.

40th round: Begin the next round continuing with the waste yarn, and k5. Slip these 5 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn. Then finish the round as follows: k1, yon, p1; * k3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [43sts]

41st round: Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2tog, k1, p1; * slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [36sts]

42nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

Repeat rounds 23 through 26 twice more. Cast off 42 sts (not too tightly).

Work the thumb.

Go back to the waste yarn and carefully remove it, placing the resulting live sts on two double-point needles; there will be 7
sts below the opening, that look like normal sts, and aim to get 8 sts above - ensure you pick up all the loops.

Now set off working in a round; starting with the 7 sts below the opening, arrange the sts as follows: Place the first 2 sts on a needle and leave for the end of the round.

Join in the yarn and using another needle, k3, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 7 lower sts and the first of the 8 upper sts), yon, then purl the second stitch from the upper needle. This is "needle one" and has 7 sts.
Using another needle, k1, k2tog, k1. This is "needle two" and has 3 sts.
Using another needle, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 8 upper sts and the first of the two sts you left for the end of the round), p1. This is "needle three" and has 4sts. [14 sts]

1st round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [12sts]
2nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [14 sts]
3rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
4th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
5th round: as 1st.
6th round: as 2nd.

Cast off 14 thumb sts loosely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

1 x 50g ball Rowan Kid Classic.

Small length of waste yarn in contrasting colour, (something slippery like cotton preferably).

One set of 4 No. 8 (4 mm) needles.

Tension

Kid Classic knits to a tension of 18sts and 24 rows to 4 inches on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

Abbreviations

yon: yarn over needle - makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn. Cast on 48 stitches, using "backward loop method" as follows: loop 2, slide a bead up next to the loops; loop 4, slide next bead into place; slide next bead into place; and so on to the last bead and then end with loop 2 [48 loops].

Knit one row.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P1, k2, p1, k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P1, CB5 (cable over 5 sts "back" by slipping the next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the back of the work; k2, then (p1, k2) from cable needle), p2; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P1, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p2; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P1, k5, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K4; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k5; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Continue straight, working from the chart for the 9 rows, and completing the three hearts.

Row 10: K1, m1, k52, m1, k1. [56 sts]

Work 4 rows straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Knit 4 rounds on these 14 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn, cast on 48 stitches, and knit one row, as for right glove.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P2, k2, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P2, CF5 (cable over 5 sts "forward" by slipping the next 2sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the front of the work; k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle), p1; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P2, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p1; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P2, k5, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

You work the thumb gusset in the same way as you did for the right glove, but set the position of the thumb differently as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts; k5; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k4. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb and the bead hearts, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball Sunbeam St Ives 4 ply in cream 3103.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles. A tiny crochet hook for placing the beads.

66 beads size 6/0
[Sanctuary Beads]

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.
The cables on the wrist tend to pull in quite tightly without the same flexibility as rib. If you are concerned about this, you might use larger needles to complete the wrist welt, or even put in an extra stitch between each cable (cast on 54) just for the welt and then decrease back to 48 evenly across the last row of the cables. If you do this your pattern repeat will be
{P1, k2, p1, k2, p3}.
And you will need to place the beads on the cast-on row with 6 or 3 loops between beads instead of 4, and you may need a few extra beads to do this.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably go for Rowan 4 ply soft, perhaps in colour 376 "Nippy".

Beading

For those of you who think "Less is More" you might prefer to work a single bead heart, positioned on row 20, with the first bead on the 7th st from the edge.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Cast on loop method

Loop the working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind; repeat this movement to form the sts.

Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Using contrast colour, cast on 48 stitches; purl one row, and join into a round.

Change to main colour and knit one row.
Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2 inches from start.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K28; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Work 2 rounds straight.

Cut 6 lengths of contrast wool, about 28 inches in length, and 6 of main shade; do not use bobbins, just the lengths of wool.
Work the first row of the pattern from the chart, as follows, joining in the lengths of wool as required, repeating the 9 pattern sts 6 times:
[Editor's note: You are now going to split the knitting and work back and forth in knit and purl rows. This is in order to insert the hearts nicely using the intarsia method. I tried the Fair Isle technique but the red contrast colour showed through the white, and did not look attractive. This method does mean a little more sewing in of ends but I think the result is worth it.
You will join the round up as you reach the end of each row.]

Row 1: K4 from the ball of main shade, k1 using first strand of contrast yarn, k8 using first strand of main shade, k1 contrast using second strand of contrast, k8 using second strand of main shade, and so on the the last 4 sts; k3 in last strand of main shade, slip the last st. Still using the last working needle, pick up the st below the first st of the round and knit into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.

[Editor's note: Use the pop-up from the above picture for more detailed photos of this technique.]

Row 2: P3 in main shade, p3 in contrast, p6 in main shade, and so on; use the intarsia method and twist the two yarns together when you change colour. Continue in this way until you get to the last stitch in the row, and slip this stitch. Still using the first working needle, pick up the st below the last st of the round and purl into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.
Continue until all 6 pattern rows have been worked from the chart.

Now go back to working in the round, and continue in main shade only, using the main ball of wool.
Next round: K1, m1; knit to last 2 sts, m1, k1. Work 3 more rounds straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18 sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Distribute the 14 sts evenly across 3 needles, and work 4 rounds.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles joining in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:
Work as for the right glove until you reach the working for the thumb gusset then work as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k28 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball 4 ply in main shade, and small amount of contast colour.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles.

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably try Rowan 4 ply soft.
You need so little of the contrast it hardly seems worth buying a whole ball.

Intarsia

Here is a nice little video clip about intarsia knitting. Don't be put off by her continental knitting method.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Intarsia.

Text and Pictures taken from Ethknits "How to knit" page.

Hold the working yarn in your right hand and the yarn to be woven in your left.

Changing on a knit row: Knit with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to the left and wrap yarn B across the back of A as you knit the next stitch.

Changing on a purl row: Purl with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to left and wrap yarn B under A as you bring it across to purl the next stitch.

You can see from the purl row picture that the edge resembles a sideways knitted row as on each row you cross the yarns over. This way you should get no holes. Don't worry if you see holes where the yarn is loose in some places. When you finish your work you will have lots of ends to sew in and you can pull these tight and sew up any holes that still appear.

Instructions (both hands alike)

Using No. 14 (2mm) needles cast on 48 stitches, and work in k2, p2 rib in rounds for 2½ inches.

Next row: Knit twice into every stitch.

Now slip every alternate stitch (ie every "made" stitch) on to No 12(11) needles and leave the original 48 sts on the No14 needles on the outside of the work.

[Editor's note: The original instructions expect you to continue to knit on the larger needles, leaving the outer sts on the No 14 needles. I found this very awkward; I thought it would improve as I got further up the glove but it did not.
So I took the trouble, after I had slipped the sts as shown, to thread the outer sts onto waste yarn (slippery yarn, as the Tweed wool is felty), and then when I had finished the inner glove, rethread them back on to the 14 needles.]

Continue on the No 12(11) needles, on the "made" sts, in rounds of plain knitting, and work 2 rows straight.

3rd round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last st, knit twice into it.
Knit 2 rounds.

6th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 2sts, knit twice into next st, k1.
Knit 2 rounds.

9th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 3sts, knit twice into next st, k2.
Knit 2 rounds.

Continue in this way, increasing on every 3rd row at either side of the thuumb, until there are 66 sts on the needles.

Divide for thumb
Next round: K8; leave next 50 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 8 sts of round. [20sts]

Continue on these 20 sts for 22 rounds.
Next round: K2tog all round.
Next round: Knit
Next round: K2tog all round.
Draw thread through remaining sts and fasten off.

Rejoin wool to continue with the main part of the mitten:
remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base of the thumb, then knit the 50 sts from the holder. [54sts]

Work 18 rounds straight on these 54 sts.

Divide for fingers
Next round (forefinger): K10; leave leave next 38 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 6sts of round. [20sts]

Work 3 rounds straight on these 20 sts, then work 4 rounds k1, p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Next round (middle finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base forefinger. Knit first 6 sts from holder; cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; slip the last 6 sts on holder onto a needle and knit them. [20sts]

Complete as for forefinger.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base third finger, and knit the remaining 14 sts from holder. [18sts]

Work as before over these 18 sts.

Over-mitten
Now return to sts left on the No 14 needles at the wrist.
[Editor's note: Or - thread the sts on the spare wool back on to the No 14 needles.]
Join in the wool at the beginning of the round, (base of the thumb), and with No 11 (10) needles, work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), for 5 inches.

Next row (right side facing): K2tog; k21; k2tog; k21; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.
7th row: K2tog; knit to centre; k3tog; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.

Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing as for 7th row on every 6th row until 37 sts remain.
Work 3 rows straight.
Then decrease in the same way on every row until 9 sts remain.
Cast off.

Making up
Press stocking-stitch portions with a damp cloth. Darn in all ends. Insert zip down side of outer mitten, starting at top and ending with the pull just above the thumb; join the remainder of seam across top of fingers. The edges of the outer mitten should fit nicely round the thumb; finish these with a row of double crochet.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 25g balls Rowan 4ply Tweed.

Set of 4 each of numbers 14, 12 and 11 (UK size) needles for the smaller size, and 14, 11 and 10 for the larger size.
A number 12 crochet hook.

Two 4-inch zip fasteners.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 1 inch

Rowan 4ply tweed tension: 28st and 40rows to 4 inches (10cm) using No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit size 6¼-7, or 7½-8½ inch hand.

A word on the wool.

Original calls for 2oz 3 ply for girl's size [sic] and 3oz 4ply for man's size.
I have often read that older 3 or 4 ply wools were thicker than 3 or 4 plies of today; I have not really noticed that before in practice - however I think a large man's mitten could be knitted in guernsey 5ply or a light weight DK, like Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.