Tweed Cardigan Coat
Wonderfully stylish mid-1950s tweed coat-style cardigan. I had to leave the background in the photo - indicating knitwear alla moda - and an exotic photo-shoot.
"Double-knitting and bouclet are worked together to produce this attractive tweed-knit fabric."
The style is simple enough to knit (all boxy shapes) and one feels could be adapted to larger sizes. However the real issue here will be choosing an appropriate yarn; the pattern indicates it is mostly knitted in a bouclé yarn knitted double and yet the resulting tension seems relatively fine (over the pattern stitch).
The DK is used singly throughout and the Bouclet is used double with
either one ball of white together with one ball of black or two balls
of black, as stated in the pattern instructions.
With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 142 sts fairly loosely and work in pattern as follows:
(right side facing): Knit in double boucle.
These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ inches at centre. Place a coloured thread at each end of the row here to mark the start of the armholes as no actual shaping is done.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 24½ inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next 10 rows; cast off remainder.
Pocket linings (make 2 the same)
Begin by making pocket linings.
With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 82 sts and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with same pattern row as the pocket lining. Here start pocket opening.
Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts; (slip last 67 sts on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being); pattern across 32 sts of one of the pocket linings [47 sts]
Work 5½ inches straight in pattern on these 47 stitches, ending with a row on the right side of the work.
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 32 fairly loosely and pattern to end; leave these 15 sts on a second spare needle or a needle holder.
With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining 67 sts.
Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts on spare needle, then on to the same needle pattern across the last 67 sts [82 sts]
Continue straight in pattern over all stitches until front matches back
Then keep the neck edge straight, and at the same time, when front
Work as for the left, reversing all shapings and making
To make a buttonhole:
For the right front, your 1st row of the pocket shaping will read:
Next row (right side facing): pattern
across 67 sts and slip on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time
being. With right side
Finish to correspond with left front reversing the instructions in line with the above.
With No 12 needles and double black bouclet, cast on 62 sts and work 1½ inches k1, p1 rib.
Break off 1 ball of black and join in 1 ball of white bouclet.
Work straight until sleeve measures 15½ inches.
Cast off right across fairly loosely.
Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, begin
at right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 42 sts across back of neck,
* turn and rib back, picking up and purling
4 sts from side of neck at end of row; turn and rib back, picking up and
knitting 4 sts from
Rib to end of row; cast off in rib.
To Make Up
Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Face both front edges on wrong side with ribbon, turning under 1 stitch of the knitting as you do so and taking care not to stretch the knitting. Cut holes in the ribbon to correspond with those in the knitting, then oversew around the holes with matching sewing cotton.
The original pattern intended for you to cover button moulds with rounds
of single black bouclet in double crochet, drawing crochet
With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, pick
up and knit 26 sts down front piece of each pocket slit.
Press all seams.
The original yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension
- and almost 100% wool. The striking style of the coat is created using
the yarn double with black and white together to create a tweed effect.
If you hate knitting double you might find a loopy tweed DK or worsted yarn which knits to the right tension. But you will need to find it in a solid version to match (because some parts of the pattern are knitted in black bouclet alone) - as well as the toning DK smooth yarn.
In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. The number of ounces of an obsolete yarn with no yardage provided is of little help.
Whatever you choose - knit a swatch!