Pattern of the Month: 2012 Archives

Welly Socks

It may seem unseasonal to feature thick woolley socks in May but it's been the wettest April for many decades apparently, so it seemed appropriate.
This is a useful pattern for a couple of reasons. One is that it's knitted in Aran weight yarn - though you need several balls so not exactly good for using up scraps; the other is that they are perfect socks for Wellingtons (see the photo - try not to be frightened by the model's excessive yet manly body hair!).
They should be hard wearing as they are knitted to a firm tension, and I have knitted a couple of highly successful pairs in the past (now given away as gifts, so not illustrated).

Instructions.

Cast on 60 sts, 20 on each of three needles.
1st round: * k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round for 5 inches,

Next round: * p3, k1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round until work measures 16 inches.

Shape ankle

1st round: Pattern 10, p2tog; pattern 8, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [58 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1, p4, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures l8 inches.

Next round: Pattern 5, p2tog; pattern 16, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [56 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, (p3, k1) twice; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures 21 inches.

Slip the first 28 stitches on the first needle for the heel, and continue to work with these for the heel.

Divide remaining stitches on two needles and leave for instep.

Shape heel

1st row: k27, turn.
2nd row: p26, turn.
3rd row: k25, turn.
4th row: p24, turn.

Continue thus, working one stitch less on every row until the row ‘p10, turn’ has been worked.

Next row: k10; pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and knit it together with the next stitch, turn.
Next row: p11, pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and purl it together with the next stitch, turn.

Continue thus working one stitch more on every row until all the stitches are worked onto one needle again. [28 sts]

Next row: k14, thus completing heel.
Mark this point, which is the back of the leg, and the marker for the start of each round.

Slip the instep stitches back onto one needle again, so you have the stitches distributed over the 3 needles 14/28/14, and you are ready to start he next round.
Keep the two lots of 14 stitches in stocking stitch (this will make the sole) and continue the rib pattern in rounds until work measures 6 inches from marked point. If you want to adjust the length of the foot, do so here by knitting more or fewer inches.

Shape toe

1st round (1st needle): knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (2nd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (3rd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the end of the round.
2nd round: knit.
Rep. these 2 rounds until 24 sts. remain.
Knit the stitches from first needle and then slip them on to the end of 3rd needle, (12 sts on each needle).

Making up

Graft or cast off the stitches from two needles together.
Sew in all ends.
Press lightly, or shape over a sock shaper.
Fold the ribbing at the top in half to the right side.

Materials

7 x 50g balls Aran weight yarn.

One set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

21sts x 29 rows to 4ins over stocking stitches.

Size matters

Length of foot: 11 inches (adjustable).
Length from top to base of heel: 21 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k2tog tbl: knit 2 together through back loops (also known as "ssk"; or slip1, knit1, pass the slipped stitch over).

A Word
on the Wool.

Original yarn was Patons Capstan which was their standard Aran weight pure wool. I used a vintage Robin Tweed pure wool when I knitted my version.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Posted by Christina on May 6, 2012 8:01 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Easter Bonnet

This type of bonnet was very popular in the 1950s - at least it was much favoured by Paton and Baldwin, using their Fuzzy Wuzzy angora**. I think, following the 1940s roll, it went with the more modern shorter hairstyles, and was possibly the half-way house to what was essentially the demise of the hat for everyday wear. Anyway - I am sure they explored every possible variation on this basic style.

**Perhaps not the best marketing brand for today's knitters.... However, angora wool is very light weight and was sold in half ounce balls; this gives you the clue that it was relatively expensive, so a tiny little cap - or perhaps bolero - was ideally affordable. (And did I mention fluffy? even I - never allergic to anything) - am prone to fits of sneezing when wearing angora).

Note that there are two versions of the bonnet for different yarn weights.

Instructions for the double knitting bonnet

Pattern stitch is worked over 6 rows:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k3, p3; leave wool forward (wfd), k2tog; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, k3, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
3rd row: * p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.

[Editor's note: The above pattern repeat of 6 rows is as given in the original instructions. If you compare the photo below with my version, you will see the eyelet arrangement is slightly different between the two. I worked (k2tog, wrn) and then (wrn, k2tog) alternately on the right side rows; this does not fit with the 6 row repeat of the mock cables. I have not written out my resulting 12 row repeat for you, but if you want to do this it is quite simple to keep track of the two patterns as you knit, one having a 4 row repeat, and the other, a 6 row repeat. Knit to the correct number of rows overall, and make sure you keep it consistent when you get to the decrease rows. ]

To Make:

Cast on cast on 64sts using the knit cast-on method to give a loose edge. Work 9 rows in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), ending with a knit row. Now make the hem for the hair-band casing as follows:

Hem row (purl side facing, which is the right side of the work): Fold the hem so that the cast on edge is aligned at the back of the needle containing your working sts; * knit one stitch on the needle with one loop from the cast on edge; repeat from * to end.
Next row(wrong side facing) : knit.

Now commence the pattern - work the 6 pattern rows five times.

Start the shaping:

31st row (first shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k3, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [56sts]
32nd row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
33rd row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p2, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
34th row: as 32nd row.
35th row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
36th row: as 32nd row.

37th row (second shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [48sts]
38th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
39th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p1, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
40th row: as 38th row.
41st row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p1, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
42nd row: as 38th row.

43rd row (third shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k3tog, k2, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [40sts]
44th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k1; * p4, k1; repeat from * twice more; p3, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
45th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wfd, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso; repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
46th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; purl to the last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.

Next row: Cast off 9sts; knit to the last 9sts; cast off 9 and fasten off.
Thread a strand of wool through the remiaing sts, draw up and fasten off.

To Complete

Pin out and press the work lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join the cast-off edges together to form the centre back seam.

With the right side of the bonnet facing you, join the wool to one side edge, at the inner edge of the hem (ie do not crochet the ends of the hem together, as you need to thread your plastic hair band into it), and work one row of double crochet all around the neck edge, finishing atthe same position on the opposite side of the front. Draw the edge in slightly as you work.
Turn the work and and work 1dc into each dc of the preceding row.
Run 4 rows of elastic thread through the wrong side of the dc edging and draw up the threads to measure about 11 inches, or more if necessary.

Slip the hair band through the front casing, and then seam the short ends to close it off.

Sew in and neaten all ends.