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Archive entry for 2012

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December 2012

Nursery Slippers

NurserySlippers.jpg

Toddler slippers for a quickly knitted Christmas gift. The top of each slipper is knitted, and is designed to be attached to a purchased leather sole. You could make your own out of leather (but be prepared to line it - perhaps with quilt batting and fabric, fleece fabric, or a shaped piece of knitting. If you design your own knitted sole you can make it non-slip by sewing on sole-shaped cut-outs from cushioned fabric ("slip-a-grip"); various brand options can be purchased on a roll from kitchen suppliers, or you can buy specialist sewing fabrics for this purpose.
Below I've added a great You Tube link for instructions on how to make your own non-slip soles.

Instructions

Both slippers are worked alike. The following special abbreviation is used throughout the pattern, making a wide ribbed cable.

Tie 5: Insert right-hand needle between 5th and 6th stitches from point of left-hand needle, draw loop through and place on point of left-hand needle, then k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.


Both slippers are worked alike,

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.
Break wool.

Slip first and last 6 stitches on safety-pins for heel.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the centre 33 stitches and with No 9 needles continue in pattern for instep as follows:-

1st row: p4, (rib 5, p5) twice, rib 5, p4.
2nd row: k4, (rib 5, k5) twice, rib 5, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

5th row: p4, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p.4.
6th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

11th row: p4, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p4.
12th row: as 2nd row.

These 12 rows form pattern.

Repeat, them once more, then rows 1-6 inclusive again.

Continue in pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: 27 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 15 stitches remain. Cast off.

Join side edges of ribbing to form back seam.

For the heel:
Place the two sets of 6 stitches on a No 11 needle. With No 9
needles and right side facing, work in reversed stocking-
stitch as follows:-

Next row: p twice in 1st Stitch, p to last stitch, p twice in last stitch.
Next row: knit. Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 26 stitches ending with a knit row. Cast off.

Finishing

Pin out patterned part and heel of each slipper and press on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Sew slanting side edges of heel piece along side edge of instep piece as far as they will go without stretching; press seams.
Join back seam.

Pin tops to slipper soles and sew firmly in position.

Materials

2oz Double Knitting yarn in Lipstck Red.

One pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

A pair of size 8 soles (about 25 or 26 european size).
[Editor's note: You can try a search for "knitted slipper soles". I came up with this one.

Tension

23 stitches by 31 rows to 4 inches over stocking stich on 3¾mm needles

Size matters

Designed "for a toddler" with some flexibility as to the size of sole chosen. For a larger slipper, experiment with thicker yarn and fit to a larger sole.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn recommended was a standard double knitting. Despite the tension being very slightly tighter than usual due to the 3¾mm needles used, I think a slightly heavier weight - an Aran weight perhaps - would be quite acceptable. A tighter fabric for slippers is probably more desirable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2012

Reindeer jacket (for a small boy...or girl)

Florence.jpg

This looks so cute and would make a lovely Christmas cardigan for a toddler. The fair-isle design is not too challenging and hopefully you have plenty of time to knit for this year's festivities.
One size only I'm afraid, but you could increase it slightly by increasing the yarn weight and needle size.

This was beautifully knitted by Sara for her daughter, who also models it. The original (boy) model seen after the pattern instructions.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, kl st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Chart C

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Chart D

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

October 2012

Cloche Cap

ClocheCap.jpg

Charming retro hat with decorative band and buckle.

I learned from the Debbie Bliss Magazine Autumn/Winter 2012 that one of my favourite designers, Louisa Harding, has been facing up, with her husband, to his challenge of being treated for lymphoma. In appreciation for the help of Macmillan nurses, Louisa is taking part in Macmillan's Nepal Hiking Challenge and seems well on her way to raising her goal of £5000.
To help achieve the target She has put together a series of seven knitting patterns called 'Himalayan Hiking Hats'. She will have her photo taken wearing each one of the hats on the first 6 days of the trek. The seventh hat pattern in the series will be knitted 'en route' and photographed on the 7th (last) trekking day.
Download the hat patterns from her site and show your support by sending a donation.

Instructions.

The main hat is knitted in reverse stocking stitch, with the band in garter stitch. The design is intended for a textured yarn.

Crown

Using the 5 No 10 needles, cast on 8 stitches, placing 2 stitches on each of 4 needles.

1st (and every alternate) round: purl
2nd round: knit twice into every stitch. [16 sts]
4th round: * k1 knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [24 sts]
Mark end of round with a contrast thread, or stitch marker.

6th round: * k2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [32 sts]
8th round: * k3, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [40 sts]

Continue increasing 8 stitches thus on every alternate round until there are 36 stitches on each needle. [144 stitches]
Work 7 rounds straight.

Next round: * k16, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [136 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k15, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [128 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k14, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [120 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k13, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [112 sts]
Work 5 rounds straight.

Cast off.

Band

Cast on 16 stitches, and work a strip in garter-stitch (every row knit) 22 inches long - or length required to fit round head with 3 inches to spare. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off. This forms a point.
Using the wool double, crochet all round the outer edge of the buckle to cover.
[Editor's note: I think this might be trickier than it sounds - either due to the bouclé nature of the yarn or the thickness of the hook you'd need to use. I might be tempted to try a blanket or button-hole stitch around the buckle using the yarn single and a large-eyed darning needle.]

Stitch the cast-on edge of the band to the buckle, then slot the shaped end through the buckle pulling it through until the band fits round the head snugly.
[Editor's note: Again a slight inconsistency in the instructions and the photo here. I don't think it matters if you have a buckle with or without a tongue. If the latter, arrange the size you need and just push the tongue through the knitting. You should catch stitch the band in place, ensuring that it looks as though the end is free, that is, as if you had not stitched it.]

To Make Up

Pin band in position evenly all round crown noting that the purl side of the crown is the right side.
Sew neatly in position stretching band slightly.
Press seam and crown very lightly under a damp cloth using a rolled towel inside hat to keep the shape.

Materials

3 ozs Patons Rimple double knitting in colour Harlequin 1572.

A set of five of No 10 (3¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

A 2½ inch buckle.

Crochet hook.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

An average hat size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

Patons Rimple was a softly textured bouclé yarn, (97% wool, 3% nylon), which knitted to a double knitting tension.

This hat is knitted on finer needles than usual so the knitted fabric will be denser and stiffer, giving the hat more body.

There are a few double knitting bouclé yarns available though many tend to be chunky weight. Debbie Bliss seems to have discontinued the Cashmerino Astrakhan but you can still obtain it at some outlets on the internet (and often discounted). Rowan have recently brought out a British Sheep Breeds "fine" bouclé but this still seems to knit up to a chunkier tension. You can try and obtain the right tension with finer needles - and I think this would produce an excellent knitted fabric for the hat - but be warned that knitting bouclé tightly on small needles is very hard work.

I cannot supply the yardage of Rimple, and can only guess that "Harlequin" was a multi-coloured tweed.

September 2012

Late summer man appeal

MansChequeredSweater.jpg

This is almost a guernsey style man's sweater. The "chequered pattern" is similar to the "Jacob's Ladder" in the guernsey tradition, although the raglan sleeve would not be traditional, and the double knitting yarn is a little heavier than the usual 5 ply.
I particularly like the change to to the ridged pattern for the yoke, and the raglan sleeves. I guess if you were up to a challenge, you could thread all the stitches for the yoke sections on one circular needle, and knit in the round as one piece, avoiding any potential bulky seaming. If I ever knit this, I may try that, but you do need to work it out first, as the decreasing for the sleeve sections is usually in a different sequence from the backs and fronts.

"...typical "man appeal" style that will make it a winner..."

Instructions

These 8 rows form ridge pattern:
1st row (right side facing): purl.
2nd and 3rd rows: knit.
4th and 5th rows: purl.
6th and 7th rows: knit.
8th row: purl.

Back:

Using No 10 (3¼mm)needles cast on 104(108)stitches and work 2½ inches in k2, p2 rib, increasing 10(12)stitches evenly across the last row: [114(120)stitches]

Change to No 8 (4mm)needles and pattern:

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: p7(12), k2, * p12, k2; repeat from * to last 7(12)stitches, p7(10).
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
7th row: p7(10), * k16, p12; rep. from * to last 23(26)stitches, k16, p7(10).
8th row: k9(12), * p12, k16; rep. from * to last 21(24)stitches, p12, k9(12).
9th-14th rows:
repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.
15th row: k9(12), p12, k16; repeat from * to last 21(24)stitches, p12, k9(12).
16th row: p7(10), * k16, p12; rep. from * to last 23(26)stitches, k16, p7(10).

These 16 rows form pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 15 inches, measuring work down the centre on wrong side.

With right side facing, shape raglans by casting off 5(5)stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 90(96)stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, change to ridge pattern as given at the beginning, and work 2 rows straight, then continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 76(86)stitches remain. Work 3 rows straight.
Continue in ridge pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 36(38)stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Work exactly as for the back until 54(56)stitches remain in raglan. Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, divide for neck as follows:-

Next row: k2tog, pattern 15(15), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work in pattern.
Continue shaping raglan on next and every alternate row as before and at the same time shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following 3rd row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 20(22)stitches on a spare needle, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and pattern to the last 2 stitches; k2tog. Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles, cast on 52(52)stitches and work 2½ inches k2, p2 rib, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the last row: [58 (58)stitches]

Change to No 8 needles and work in pattern.
Your first 2 rows will read for both sizes:-

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: p7, k2, * p12, k2; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p7.

Continue in pattern shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 86(86)stitches. Work straight until sleeve seam measures about 19½ inches, ending with same pattern row as you did when you started the raglan on the back.

With right side facing, shape raglan top by casting off 4(4)stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 64(64) stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, change to ridge pattern as for back and work 2 rows straight, then continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 50(50) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 10(10) stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern, and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Neck Band:

Join raglan seams matching patterns carefully.

With the set of 4 No 10 needles and right side facing, start at left raglan seam on front and pick up and knit 18 stitches down left side of neck;
knit across 20(22) stitches on the spare needle, increasing as follows: k2(3), {pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it, knit 4} 4 times, pick up horizontal loop as before, k2(3);
pick up and k18 stitches up right side of neck;
k10 sleeve stitches;
k36(38) stitches from back increasing as follows: k6(7), {pick up and knit to back of horizontal loop as before, k4} 6 times, pick up and knit loop as before, k 6(7);
k10 sleeve stitches: [124 (128) stitches]

Work in rounds of k2, p2 rib for 2½ ins.
Cast off loosely in rib using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

23(24)ozs Patons Double Quick Knitting in Golden Beige 6117

Pair each No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm), plus a set of four No 10 (3¼mm)needles, pointed both ends for neck-band.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to 4 ins using No 8 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 38-39(40-41)inches;
actual size seems to be 41/(43)inches.

Length from top of shoulders, 26/(26) inches; sleeve seam, 19½(19½)ins.

Instructions for larger size given in brackets (bold blue). Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size indicate that any standard UK double knitting would work; in the US this yarn weight is probably considered a light worsted.
It's worth checking your tension as, even in the UK, the term double knitting covers a multitude of subtle variations in yarn thickness.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MansChequeredSweaterStitch.jpg

August 2012

String Bag

StringBag.jpg

A crochet "holdall" or "tote" made in dishcloth cotton (subsequently re-branded craft cotton). This one is lined and the craft cotton is soft and flexible. You could make it from a coarser type of jute, (I would use a larger hook), and leave it unlined, to use as a vegetable or market bag. I have also seen some excellent bags and bowls made from Herdwick yarn; these are crocheted very tightly to create a rigid fabric so the bags will keep their shape unsupported.

Instructions

The bag is made in one piece starting at the base, and the straps are then attached separately.

Bag

Start at the base and make 21 ch.
Work in rounds as follows:

1st round: Work 3 dc into 2nd ch from hook; 1 dc in each of next 18 ch; work 3 dc into last ch; then continue along other side of ch by working 1 dc in next 18 ch; join with slip stitch to first dc of round. [42 sts]
2nd round: (inc1, 1 dc, inc1, 18 dc) twice. [46 sts]
3rd round: (2 dc, work 3 dc in next dc 20 dc) twice. [50 sts]
4th round: (1 dc, inc1, 1 dc, inc1, 1 dc, inc1, 19 dc) twice. [56 sts]
5th round: (3 dc, inc1, 2 dc, inc1, 2 dc, inc1, 18 dc) twice. [62 sts]
6th round: (5 dc, inc1, 3 dc, inc1, 21 dc) twice. [66 sts]
7th round: (9 dc, inc1, 23 dc) twice. [68 sts]
8th round: (6 dc, inc1, 6 dc, inc 20 dc) twice. [72 sts]
Base is now complete.
Next round: Make ridge by working 1 dc into back loop only of every stitch

Increase round: (inc1, 8 dc) 8 times. [80 sts]

Work in ridge pattern as follows:-

1st round: Work 1 dc in each dc.
2nd round: as 1st round but working into back loops only.

Repeat last 2 rounds until work measures 11½ ins. from the the first ridge worked at completion of base.
Fasten off.

Straps (Make 2)

Make 49 ch and work in rows.

1st row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next 47 ch , I ch , turn.
2nd row:
Miss 1 dc, 1 dc in next 47 dc, 1 ch , turn.
3rd row: as second round
Fasten off.

To Make Up:

Cut piece of card to fit base.

Cut lining, 18 x 24 inches (this lines the depth of bag and allows for gathered top as well).

From remainder of material, cut two strips for lining handles, 15 x 2 inches, and for base, draw round the card shape on material and cut out about 1 in. away from pencil outline.

Cover one side of card with lining, folding over and sticking surplus material onto the other side.
Pin one longer edge of lining round covered side of base, then stitch in position.

Join the 2 side edges of lining to make a tube.

Top Finish: Fold over top edge of lining to wrong side to make 3½ inch hem, and stitch in position. ¼ inch down from top folded edge. make 2 rows of stitching, ½ inch apart, for draw-string. Open seam between the 2 rows and insert tape.
[Editor's note: This assumes you are going with the covered-in draw-up top, but this can be left off if you wish to make the bag as a shopper.]

Slip lining into bag and stitch into position by catching the 3½ inch hemline behind crochet (about ½ inch down from top of edge of crochet).

Catch lining to base.

Line handles and stitch on each side of bag.

Draw up tape and tie.

Materials

2 x 4oz. hanks Dishcloth Cotton.
No 6 (5mm) crochet hook.
Piece of stiff card for base.
½ yard 36-inch wide glazed cotton for lining.
1 yard white tape for draw-string.
[Editor's note: This gives the bag a covered draw-up top, but this can be left off if you wish to make the bag as a shopper.]

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: = chain
dc: = double crochet
inc1: increase by working 2dc into 1dc

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Tension

3 stitches to 1 inch in width.

Size matters

Depth: 11½ inches; Oval base: 9½ x 4½ inches.

A Word on the Wool

There are a number of brands sold as "dishcloth cotton" or "craft cotton" but it's a little pot luck with the thickness - you will have to experiment with the tension and how you want the bag to look. You are looking for an Aran weight yarn with a yardage of about 75m to 50g.

Lion Brand Cotton is fairly common in the US and would be suitable if you can obtain it (and comes in exciting colours too...).

You can literally use balls of string for this kind of bag but I've always found that works out surprisingly expensive.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2012

Cooler Trend for Summer II

CoolTrend2c.jpg

For an even cooler trend for summer - which seems all too possible this year in the UK - another early sixties light woollen top with bracelet length sleeves (my favourite). This design seems very representative of the 1960s to me, with its plain simplicity and straight body-line, combined with heavier design work emphasising the sleeve.
"...decorative stitches and scooped necklines make pretty tops to wear on summer days..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 3 sizes with the larger sizes; where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back and Front alike.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 132/140/148 stitches loosely and work 24 rows in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.
Make a hem on the next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Purl back.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until work measures 14 ins. down centre, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes: by casting off' 7/5/9 stitches at beg. of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 96 stitches remain.

Shape neck:

Next row(right side facing): k2tog, k16, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: p2tog, purl to end.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain; p2, then k2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 60 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, k16, k2tog.

Next row: purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No. 11 needles, cast on 99/111/111 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: knit.
6th row: * k4, wfd, k2tog; rep, from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
7th row: purl.
8th row: k1, * k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
9th row:
purl.
10th row:
k1, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, repeat from * to last 6 stitches; wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
11th row:
: purl.
12th row:
* k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; k2tog, wfd, K1.
These 12 rows form the lace pattern.
Repeat them 9 times more.
Next row: knit.

Shape top as follows:

1st row: cast off 9, purl to end.
2nd row:
cast off 9, knit to end.
**
3rd row:
p2tog, purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
4th row:
knit.
5th row:
k2tog, * k4, wI.fwd., K2tog; repfrom * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2tog, k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
8th row:
purl.
9th row:
k2tog., k4, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k3; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, k2tog.
10th row: purl.
11th row:
k2tog, * k3, k2tog, wfd, k1; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog.
12th row:
knit.
13th row:
as 3rd row.
14th row:
knit. **
Repeat from ** to ** 2/3/3 times more: 45 stitches remain.
Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Yoke

Join raglan seams.

Stitches for yoke are arranged on the circular needle for easy working but pattern is worked backwards and forwards with a backopening.

Using a spare No 11 needle, divide 60 stitches at back onto 2 needles.

With right side facing and using the circular No 11 needle, knit 30 stitches from left side of back, pick up and knit 11 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of front, k60 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 10 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of back, then knit remaining 30 stitches: 253 stitches

Next row: knit.

Continue as follows:-

1st row: k6, * wfd, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k4, * k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k3, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2, * k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, wfd, k3.
8th row: knit.
9th row: purl.
10th row: knit.
11th row: purl.
12th row: * k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
24th row: * k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
36th row: * k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1: 145 stitches

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows stocking stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off loosely.

Cuffs

With No 12 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 60/66/66 stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 37 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neck border and cuffs in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.
With No 12 needles and right side facing, pickup and knit 35 stitches along right side of back opening.
1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, k2tog, wfd, * k4, k2tog, wfd, repeat from * 4 times more, k2.
3rd row: knit.
Cast off.
Press all seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8/9/9 ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in Powder Blue.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles, and a circular No 11 needle for the yoke.

6 small buttons.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 32-33/34-35/36-37 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21/22/22 inches; sleeve seam: 12 inches all sizes.

Abbreviations

wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

This is a good time to look for fine yarns as all the main companies seem to be offering them in a wider range of qualities and colours.

3 ply weight might be a bit harder to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


CoolTrend1962-23.jpg

Cooler Trend for Summer I

CoolTrend1.jpg

Well we certainly have a cooler trend for summer here in the UK, so this early sixties short sleeved light woollen top might be just the right thing. For myself, I prefer either sleeveless or three-quarter sleeves, (which might prove a relatively simple adaptation), but I think the collar is a very pretty and original design.
"...designs for the warm spells use fine wools and feminine touches for trimming..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 2 sizes with the larger size given in brackets, (bold blue); where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Front

**
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 118 (124) sts and work 1½ (2½) inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 10 (12) sts evenly across the last row. [118 (124) sts]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P21 (25) * k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21 (25).
2nd row: K21 (25), *p2, k8, p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
3rd row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21(25).
4th row: k21 (25), *p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; p2, k21 (25).
5th row: p21 (25), * k2, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1, m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog., psso, k1, m1k, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts., k2, p21 (25).
6th row: k21 (25), * p2, k2, p3, k2, p5, k2, p3, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
7th row: p21 (25), * k2, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2 tog., m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1k, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
8th row: k21 (25), *p2, kl, p5, kl, p5, k, p5, k1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
9th row: p21(25), * k2, p1, m1p, k7, slip 1, k2tog, psso k7, m1p, p1; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, k2, p21(25).
10th row: k.21 (25), * p2, k2, p15, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
11th row: p21(25), * k2, p2, m1p, k6, slip1, k2tog, psso, k6, m1p, p2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p2l (25).
12th row: k21 (25), * p2, k3, p13, k.3; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
13th row: p21 (15), * k2, p3, m1p, k5, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k5, m1p, p3; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
14th row: k21(25), * p2, k4, p11, k4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
15th row: p21(25) * k2, p4, m1p, k4, slip1, k2tog, psso, k4, m1p, p4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
16th row: k21(25, * p2, k5,p9, K 5; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
17th row: p21(25), * k2, p5, m1p, k3, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k3, m1p, p5; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
18th row: k21 (25), * p2, k6, p7, k6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
19th row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, m1p, k2, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k2, m1p, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
20th row: k21(25), * p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
21st row: p21 (25), * k2, p7, m1p, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1p, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
22nd row: k21 (25), * p2, k8; p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
23rd row: p2l (25), * k2, p8, m1p, slip 1, k2tog, psso, m1p, p8; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
24th row: k21(25), * p2, k19; rep, from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
25th row: p21(25), * k2, p19; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
26th row: as 24th.
27th -30th rows: as 25th and 26th rows worked twice.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until 3 patterns and 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at beg, of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch. at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 100 (104) sts remain. Work one more row in pattern.
**

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row: pattern 43 (45), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work in pattern.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30) sts remain.
Keeping continuity of pattern work straight until 5 patterns and 28 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 10 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 14 sts, pattern to end. Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

BACK SLEEVES

Back

Work as for front from ** to** ; [100 (104)] sts
Continue straight in pattern until back matches front at armhole edge. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9(10) sts at the beginning of the of next 4 rows, then 10 (10) sts at beg, of the next 2 rows. Cast off remaining 44 sts.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 80 (80) sts and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 4 sts evenly across on last row. [84(84) sts] Change to No 10 needles and pattern arranging stitches as follows:

1st row (right side facing): p20, [k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, P7] twice, k2, P20.
2nd row: k20, [p2, k8, p3, k8] twice, p2, k20. .

Continue thus keeping continuity of lace pattern until 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 38 sts remain. Work one row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 sts remain. Work one row and cast off.

Neck Frill

With No 12 needles, cast on 16 sts.

1st row (right side facing): k5, p6, k5.
2nd row: p5, turn, k5.
3rd row: p16.
4th row: k5, turn, p5.
5th and 6th rows: as 3rd and 4th rows.
7th row: k5, p6, k5.
8th row: p5, turn, k5.
9th row: k5, p1, cast off 4, p1, k5.
10th row: p5, turn, k5.
11th row: P6, cast on 4, p6.
12th row: k5, turn, p5.
13th row: p16.
14th row: k5, p6, k5.
15th - 18th rows: as 1st and 2nd rows twice.
19th row: p16.
20th row: k5, turn, p5.
21st - 28th rows: as l3th-20th rows.

Repeat rows 5-28 inclusive 16 times more, then rows 5-20 once. Cast off.

With No. 12 needles, cast on 5 sts and work 23 ins. k1, p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work very lightly under a damp cloth..
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join neck frill neatly; pin into position all round neck so that garter- stitch in the centre of the border and the frill overlap on to main work. Catch down neck edge just below top frill on wrong side, then catch down other edge to main work at garter-stitch border at back of lower frill, (so stitching is hidden by the frill). Thread ribbed strip through slots in neck border and join neatly.



Press all seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8 (9) ozs Patons Nylox Knitting 4-ply in "Palamino"
[Editor's note: I'm guessing a golden beige.]

A pair each Nos 12 and 10 (2¾mm and 3¼) needles.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34-35 (36-37) inches; length from top of shoulders: 20½ (21½) inches; sleeve seam: 3½ (3½) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

m1k: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

Patons Nylox was designed as a sock wool with 25% nylon as the name implies. It was quickly appropriated for children's items as it was hard wearing and fine weight. By the 1960s, nylon was the material of choice, producing almost indestructable knitwear in brilliant non-fade colours - so this versatile nylon-rich wool was an ideal choice for lighter-weight summer clothes.
[Editor's note: Nylon lost its glamour in the1970s when we all went back to nature - everything in moderation, I say.....]

Any standard 4ply yarn is suitable, and currently there are a lot of them about in a good range of colours for grown-ups, such as Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, Rowan Pure Wool 4ply, and Susan Crawford's Excelana 4ply aimed at vintage knitters.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


CoolTrend1962-13.jpg

June 2012

Baby Shawlette

BabyShawletteFront.jpg

This is so very easy to knit and looks so cute over a (Liberty?) cotton baby frock. No idea how practical it is to keep in place, but it has secure back fastening straps and is perfect as a gift or for that special summer baby occasion.

Instructions

The shawlette is worked in garter stitch (every row knitted) throughout. You start your knitting at the bottom of the back and work up towards the neck, where you divide and complete each front section separately. It is designed to cross over at the front, and button into place at the back.

Using No 12 needles, cast on 50 sts and work in garter stitch for ½ inch (approximately 8-9 rows).

Next row(make eyelets): K6; ** wrn, k2tog; repeat from ** to last 6 sts; k6.
Next row:
Knit.

Start to shape the back as follows:

1st row: K6, wrn; knit to last 6 sts; wrn, k6.
2nd row: Knit

Repeat these two rows, (increasing 2 sts on each alternate row), until there are 115 sts. Your work then measures approximately 5¾ inches from the beginning.

Now start to shape the right front, working each side of the neck separately.

Next row: K6, wrn, k40, turn.
Leave the remaining 69 sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, wrn, k2tog; knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, wrn, k3tog, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: Knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k2tog, k5").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches.

Next row (make buttonhole): K2, cast off 2, knit 2.
Next row: K2, cast on 2 over those cast off, knit 2.
Next row: K2tog, k2, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog and pull thread through to cast off.

Now pick up the sts left on the spare needle and join yarn to neck edge where you left off. Cast off 23 sts then, start to shape the left front, by knitting to the last 6sts, wrn, k6 [47 sts].

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to last 8sts; s1,k1,psso; wrn, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, s2,k1,pass 2 slipped sts over; wrn, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to end

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k5, s1,k1,psso").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches, and finishing with a buttonhole as for the right front.

To Make Up

Do not block or press.
Sew in all ends.
Sew buttons to back to attach front straps.

Materials

1 x 40g ball 4ply fingering yarn.

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm ) needles.

2 small buttons.

Tension

30sts x 58rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Size matters

To fit 3-6 months (18-19 inch chest).

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend.
You could use beautifully soft Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, or experiment to make a larger size using Baby Cashmerino (check out with a swatch for both needle size and drape).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here's a view showing you the back.

BabyShawletteBack.jpg

May 2012

Welly Socks

WellySocks1.jpg

It may seem unseasonal to feature thick woolley socks in May but it's been the wettest April for many decades apparently, so it seemed appropriate.
This is a useful pattern for a couple of reasons. One is that it's knitted in Aran weight yarn - though you need several balls so not exactly good for using up scraps; the other is that they are perfect socks for Wellingtons (see the photo - try not to be frightened by the model's excessive yet manly body hair!).
They should be hard wearing as they are knitted to a firm tension, and I have knitted a couple of highly successful pairs in the past (now given away as gifts, so not illustrated).

Instructions.

Cast on 60 sts, 20 on each of three needles.
1st round: * k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round for 5 inches,

Next round: * p3, k1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round until work measures 16 inches.

Shape ankle

1st round: Pattern 10, p2tog; pattern 8, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [58 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1, p4, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures l8 inches.

Next round: Pattern 5, p2tog; pattern 16, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [56 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, (p3, k1) twice; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures 21 inches.

Slip the first 28 stitches on the first needle for the heel, and continue to work with these for the heel.

Divide remaining stitches on two needles and leave for instep.

Shape heel

1st row: k27, turn.
2nd row: p26, turn.
3rd row: k25, turn.
4th row: p24, turn.

Continue thus, working one stitch less on every row until the row ‘p10, turn’ has been worked.

Next row: k10; pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and knit it together with the next stitch, turn.
Next row: p11, pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and purl it together with the next stitch, turn.

Continue thus working one stitch more on every row until all the stitches are worked onto one needle again. [28 sts]

Next row: k14, thus completing heel.
Mark this point, which is the back of the leg, and the marker for the start of each round.

Slip the instep stitches back onto one needle again, so you have the stitches distributed over the 3 needles 14/28/14, and you are ready to start he next round.
Keep the two lots of 14 stitches in stocking stitch (this will make the sole) and continue the rib pattern in rounds until work measures 6 inches from marked point. If you want to adjust the length of the foot, do so here by knitting more or fewer inches.

Shape toe

1st round (1st needle): knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (2nd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (3rd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the end of the round.
2nd round: knit.
Rep. these 2 rounds until 24 sts. remain.
Knit the stitches from first needle and then slip them on to the end of 3rd needle, (12 sts on each needle).

Making up

Graft or cast off the stitches from two needles together.
Sew in all ends.
Press lightly, or shape over a sock shaper.
Fold the ribbing at the top in half to the right side.

Materials

7 x 50g balls Aran weight yarn.

One set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

21sts x 29 rows to 4ins over stocking stitches.

Size matters

Length of foot: 11 inches (adjustable).
Length from top to base of heel: 21 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k2tog tbl: knit 2 together through back loops (also known as "ssk"; or slip1, knit1, pass the slipped stitch over).

A Word
on the Wool.

Original yarn was Patons Capstan which was their standard Aran weight pure wool. I used a vintage Robin Tweed pure wool when I knitted my version.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WellySocks2.jpg

April 2012

Easter Bonnet

AliceBandBonnet3.jpg

This type of bonnet was very popular in the 1950s - at least it was much favoured by Paton and Baldwin, using their Fuzzy Wuzzy angora**. I think, following the 1940s roll, it went with the more modern shorter hairstyles, and was possibly the half-way house to what was essentially the demise of the hat for everyday wear. Anyway - I am sure they explored every possible variation on this basic style.

**Perhaps not the best marketing brand for today's knitters.... However, angora wool is very light weight and was sold in half ounce balls; this gives you the clue that it was relatively expensive, so a tiny little cap - or perhaps bolero - was ideally affordable. (And did I mention fluffy? even I - never allergic to anything - am prone to fits of sneezing when wearing angora).

Note that there are two versions of the bonnet for different yarn weights.

Instructions for the double knitting bonnet

Pattern stitch is worked over 6 rows:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k3, p3; leave wool forward (wfd), k2tog; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, k3, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
3rd row: * p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.

[Editor's note: The above pattern repeat of 6 rows is as given in the original instructions. If you compare the photo below with my version, you will see the eyelet arrangement is slightly different between the two. I worked (k2tog, wrn) and then (wrn, k2tog) alternately on the right side rows; this does not fit with the 6 row repeat of the mock cables. I have not written out my resulting 12 row repeat for you, but if you want to do this it is quite simple to keep track of the two patterns as you knit, one having a 4 row repeat, and the other, a 6 row repeat. Knit to the correct number of rows overall, and make sure you keep it consistent when you get to the decrease rows. ]

AliceBandBonnet.jpg

To Make:

Cast on cast on 64sts using the knit cast-on method to give a loose edge. Work 9 rows in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), ending with a knit row. Now make the hem for the hair-band casing as follows:

Hem row (purl side facing, which is the right side of the work): Fold the hem so that the cast on edge is aligned at the back of the needle containing your working sts; * knit one stitch on the needle with one loop from the cast on edge; repeat from * to end.
Next row(wrong side facing) : knit.

Now commence the pattern - work the 6 pattern rows five times.

Start the shaping:

31st row (first shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k3, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [56sts]
32nd row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
33rd row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p2, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
34th row: as 32nd row.
35th row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
36th row: as 32nd row.

37th row (second shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [48sts]
38th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
39th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p1, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
40th row: as 38th row.
41st row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p1, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
42nd row: as 38th row.

43rd row (third shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k3tog, k2, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [40sts]
44th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k1; * p4, k1; repeat from * twice more; p3, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
45th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wfd, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso; repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
46th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; purl to the last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.

Next row: Cast off 9sts; knit to the last 9sts; cast off 9 and fasten off.
Thread a strand of wool through the remiaing sts, draw up and fasten off.

To Complete

Pin out and press the work lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join the cast-off edges together to form the centre back seam.

With the right side of the bonnet facing you, join the wool to one side edge, at the inner edge of the hem (ie do not crochet the ends of the hem together, as you need to thread your plastic hair band into it), and work one row of double crochet all around the neck edge, finishing atthe same position on the opposite side of the front. Draw the edge in slightly as you work.
Turn the work and and work 1dc into each dc of the preceding row.
Run 4 rows of elastic thread through the wrong side of the dc edging and draw up the threads to measure about 11 inches, or more if necessary.

Slip the hair band through the front casing, and then seam the short ends to close it off.

Sew in and neaten all ends.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs double knitting wool.

One pair of No 7 (4½mm) needles. One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

1½ yards elastic thread.

A plastic hair band.

Tension

21 sts and 29 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit "an average head".
[Editor's note: I suggest that the fit will mainly be controlled by the size of the purchased head band, although I note from the photos that the DK version seems to fit more snugly than the 3-ply.]

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: knit two stitches together.
wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward
wtb: wool to back
s1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn Sirdar Majestic.

I used Phildar Partner 6 in a lovely red shade, (50% nylon, 25% wool, 25% acrylic).
The stated 2oz required is about 56g. A standard DK 50g ball is usually around 90-100m and this should be sufficient. Partner 6 has 66m/71yds per 50g and I needed more than one 50g ball.
Partner 6 is an Aran weight - almost even chunky - yarn.
Consequently I used No 8 (4mm) needles thinking this would still turn out slightly larger than intended. However this combination produced the required tension spot on - and actually I wish it were a shade larger. It is definitely the incorporated Alice Band that keeps this type of hat firmly on your head.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.



Here is the same bonnet in a finer yarn. Normally, I would say finer yarns make a better result, (I know: "it depends"...). However, I actually prefer the double knit version of this style which seems better proportioned.

AliceBandBonnet2.jpg

Instructions for the 3-ply bonnet

Pattern stitch is worked over 6 rows:

1st row (right side facing): * p5, k3, p5; leave wool forward (wfd), k2tog; repeat from * to last 13sts; p5, k3, p5.
2nd row: * k5, p1, k1, p1, k5, p2; repeat from * to last 13sts; k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
3rd row: * p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * to last 13sts; p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.

To Make:

Cast on cast on 103sts using the knit cast-on method to give a loose edge. Work 11 rows in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), ending with a knit row. Now make the hem for the hair-band casing as follows:

Hem row (purl side facing, which is the right side of the work): Fold the hem so that the cast on edge is aligned at the back of the needle containing your working sts; * knit one stitch on the needle with one loop from the cast on edge; repeat from * to end.
Next row(wrong side facing) : knit.

Now commence the pattern - work the 6 pattern rows eight times.

Start the shaping:

49th row (first shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p3, k3, p3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [93sts]
50th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k4, p1, k1, p1, k4; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
51st row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p4, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p4; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
52nd row: as 50th row.
53rd row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p4, k3, p4; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
54th row: as 50th row.

55th row (second shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p2, k3, p2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [83sts]
56th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
57th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
58th row: as 56th row.
59th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
60th row: as 56th row.

61st row (third shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k3, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [73sts]
62nd row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
63rd row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p2, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
64th row: as 62nd row.
65th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
66th row: as 62nd row.

67th row (fourth shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [63sts]
68th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
69th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p1, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
70th row: as 68th row.
71st row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p1, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
72nd row: as 68th row.

73rd row (fifth shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, k1, k3tog, k1; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [53sts]
74th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p3, k1; repeat from * to the last 16sts; p3, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
75th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso; repeat from * to the last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
76th row: as 74th row.
77th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.

Next row: Cast off 13sts; knit to the last 13sts; cast off 13 and fasten off.
Thread a double strand of wool through the remiaing sts, draw up and fasten off.

To Complete

Press and complete as for the double knitting version of the bonnet.

Materials

Original materials called for: 1oz of 3-ply fingering wool.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

1½ yards elastic thread.

A plastic hair band.

Tension

30 sts and 44 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit "an average head".
[Editor's note: From the photo this bonnet seems to work out larger than the DK version. That is: the gathering or "drawing in" at the neck edge seems to be more pronounced. Normally I would say that the "fine" knitting produces a nicer result than chunkier but I think I prefer the DK version in this case.]

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: knit two stitches together.
wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward
wtb: wool to back
s1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

dc: double crochet.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn Sirdar Majestic.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2012

Norwegian-style Zippers

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

This pair of cool cats are really going places. (You can tell - they've got a map and goggles and a scooter and .... everything.
The jackets are plain stitch with a fair-isle yoke, and as the title suggests, a zip closure at the front. Sizes are not very large as the pattern seems to be intended to appeal to the youth of the day. (Small hope I fear).

"Gay Patterning for him and her in to-days fashion" [sic]

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked separately then joined to work the yoke. A simple pattern around the yoke is worked from the charts. The sleeves are set-in, not raglan.

Back:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 124 {136}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 6 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 10 {8}; repeat from * 10 {14} times; inc. in next st, rib to end. [135 {151}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures 12½ {13¾} ins from the beginning.

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of the next and every alternate row until 103 {113} sts remain. Work 10 {16} rows.

Shape Back Yoke as follows:

Next row: Work across 46 {49} sts, cast off 11{15}; work to end.

Continue on this group of 46 {49} sts as follows:
Cast off 2 sts at the neck edge on every alternate row until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts. until work measures 7½ {8¾} ins from beginning of armhole shaping. Cast off.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of sts, and complete to match the other side.

Right Front:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {70}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 8 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 11 {9}; repeat from * 4 {6} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [69 {77}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the back up to the armhole, finishing at the side edge (at the end of a knit row).

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next and every alternate row until 53 {58} sts remain.

Continue straight on these sts until work measures 2 {2½} ins from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at the front edge (after a purl row).

Shape Back Yoke by casting off 7 {9} sts at the beginning of the next row. Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of every alternate row at the neck (front) edge until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts until work measures the same as the back up to the cast off. Cast off.

Left Front:

Work to match Right Front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {68}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 {3} ins.

Next row: Rib 5 {6}, * inc. in next st, rib 5 {4}; repeat from * 9 {11} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [74 {80} sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch increasing 1 st at both ends of the next and every following 8th row until there are 104 {114} sts.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 {18½} ins from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next row 6 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next row 8 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 50 {60} sts remain; then decrease 1 st at both ends of every following 3rd row until 26 {36} sts remain.

Cast off 4 {6} sts sts at the beginning of the next row 4 rows.
Cast off.

Front Bands (work 2):

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 5 sts.

1st row: K2, p1, k2
2nd row: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 14½ {16½} ins from the beginning (when slightly stretched). Change to main contrast, Royal Blue {Brown} and continue in rib until Band measures 19 {21} ins, from the beginning (when slightly stretched), finishing at the end of a 2nd row. Slip thesse sts on to safety-pin and leave.
Do not break off wool on 2nd Front Band.

Yoke:

Join back to fronts at the (tiny) shoulder seams.

With right side of work facing, using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, knit up 289 {369} sts around the yoke, then turn and purl one row.

Work the 1st to 13th rows from Chart A.

Chart A - her colourway

Chart A - his colourway

From here ensure you work the decrease rows according to the size you are knitting.

14th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue p13; (p2tog, p7) 30 times; p6. [259 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p2; (p2 tog, p9) 3 times; (p2tog, p6) 37 times; p2tog; (p9, p2tog) 3 times; p3. [{325} sts].

15th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, klB.

Work the 16th to 23rd rows as rows 1 to 8 from Chart B.

Chart B
Left: her colourway.       Right: his colourway.


24th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p6; (p2tog, p3) 50 times; p3. [209 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p3; (p2 tog, p7) 5 times; (p2tog, p2) 57 times; p2tog; (p7, p2tog) 5 times; p2. [{257} sts].

25th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, klPy.

Work 26th to 37th rows as the 2nd to 13th rows from Chart A.

38th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue, p6; (p2tog, p5) 3 times; (p2tog, p1) 51 times; (p2tog, p5) 4 times; p1. [151 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p4; (p2 tog, p3) 10 times; (p2tog, p1) 49 times; p2tog; (p3, p2tog) 10 times; p4. [{187} sts].

39th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, klB.

Work 40th to 47th rows as the 1st to 8th rows from Chart B.

48th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p2, (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p4; (p2tog) 40 times; (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p5. [99 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p11, (p2tog) 82 times; p12. . [{105} sts].

49th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, klPy.

50th row (both sizes): Using Royal Blue {Brown}, Purl.

Slip the 5 sts at the top of the Front Band where the wool was not broken off on to end of the needle containing the Yoke sts.

Proceed for Neckband as follows:

Using Royal Blue {Brown}, k2, p1, k1, p1 across these front band sts; knit across the Yoke sts; slip sts from top of 2nd Band on to empty needle, and p1, k1, p1, k1, k2 across these sts. [109 {115} sts]

1st row: * K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 2 {2} ins from beginning of neckband.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a flat seam for the ribbing and a back-stitch seam for the remainder, join side and sleeve seams.

Stitch Sleeves into position.

Flat stitch Front Bands into position.

Fold Neckband at centre and stitch down on wrong side of work. Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

12 {14} oz balls in main shade and 2 oz of main contrast and "oddments" (about ½ oz) of each of 5 contrast colours, of 4-ply fingering yarn.

Pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

20 {22} inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Ground shade in oatmeal.

His: Brown, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Royal Blue.

Hers: Royal Blue, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Brown.

Tension

30sts x 38 rows to 4 ins on No 11 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-36 ins ("women") and 38-40 ins ("men").
Length at centre back: 21 {23} ins.
Sleeve seam: 18 {18½} ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Purple Heather 4-ply. In this pattern era it was probably pure wool - later they used Purple Heather as a brand for a blended yarn. (So check if you buy vintage on eBay).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Her colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets3.jpg

His colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets4.jpg

March 2012

Simply Seventies Zip Jackets

ZipperedJackets1286.jpg

Another take on the zipped jacket from a later era. This design is easier than the Norwegian-style jacket in its construction, and uses a heavier (double knitting) weight yarn, which makes for a quicker knit. The patterning is simpler too - knitted straight, that is, without having to worry about incorporating increases and decreases into the design as you knit.

Instructions

Instructions are given for seven sizes - larger sizes indicated in brackets.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 73 [79 : 85 : 89 : 95 : 99 : 105] sts and work 14[14 : 14 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 18] rows in kl, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until work measures
11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, ending on right side. Break off main shade, (A), and join in first contrast, (B).

**
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end. Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * KlB, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * plC, klB repeat from * to last 2 sts, plC, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end. Break off yarn B, join in A.
**
5th row: Using yarn A knit to end.
Work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Break off yarn A, join in B.

Proceed as follows:
Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work from 1st to the 13th row from Chart A, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart A (see end for slightly larger view)

Break off yarn C, join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A kl. purl to last st, k1.
Next row: S1, knit to end. Break off yarn A.

Proceed as follows:
repeat from ** to ** once.
Next row: Knit to end.

Cont in stocking stitch until work measures 16½ [18½ : 20½ : 23 : 23 : 23 : 23] ins, ending on a wrong side.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts at the beginning of the next 4 [4 : 4 : 2 : 2 : 4 : 4] rows.
Cast off 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts at the beginning of the next 2 [2 : 2 : 4 : 4 : 2 : 2] rows.
Castoff rem 23 [23 :23 : 25 : 25 : 25 : 25] sts.

Left Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: S1, kl, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, kl, purl to last st, kl.

Keeping continuity of stocking stitch and garter stitch border throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the begining of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, k1C, * p1B, p1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, k1, purl to last stitch, kl.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge sts in garter stitch, and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th row from Chart B, working size required as indicated. The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart B


Break off yarn C, and join in A.

1st row: Using yarn A k2, purl to last stitch, k1.

2nd row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): S1, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): lncrease once in first stitch, knit to end.
37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes: Break off yarn A.

Shape Neck
1st row: Using yarn B, cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from *to last 3 sts, k1B, k2tog C.
3rd row: K2togB, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2sts, p1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
4th row: S1, purl to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts.

Right Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the beginning of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, kl, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Keeping continuity of garter stitch border and stocking stitch throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A k2tog, knit to end.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge stitches in garter stitch, joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th rows from Chart C, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart C


Break off yarn C,and join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A kl, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Shape Neck

Next row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to last 2 sts, increase once in next stitch, k1.

For all 7 sizes
Break off yarn A.

1st row: Using yarn B, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: K2togC, * k1B, k1C, repeat from *to last stitch, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1C, k2togB. Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, k2tog, knit to end.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a right side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: S1, knit to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: S1, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts purlwise.

Sleeves (both alike):

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on 41 [41 : 41 : 43 : 43 : 43 : 43] sts, and work 16 [16 : 16 : 20 : 20 : 20 : 20] rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing once at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th [10th : 8th : 6th : 6th : 6th : 6th] rows until there are 51 [51 : 53 : 63 : 63 : 53 : 53] stitches.
Then increase at each end of every following 6th [8th : 6th : 4th : 4th : 4th : 4th] row until there are 57 [57 : 63 : 73 : 73 : 79 : 79] stitches.
Continue without shaping until work measures 12½[14½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins. ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Neck

Cast off 7 [7 : 8 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 8 [8 : 9 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 2rows.
Cast off remaining 13 [13 : 13 : 19 : 19 : 19 : 19] sts.

The Collar:

Using No 7 (4½mm) needles and yam A cast on 26 [26 : 25 : 29 : 29 : 29 : 29] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to the last stitch, kl
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
The 1st and’2nd rows form the rib pattern.
Keeping continuity of rib pattern throughout, cast on 8 [8 : 8 : 10 : 10 : 10 : 10] sts, at the beginning of the next 8 rows. 89 [89 : 89 : 109
109 : 109 : 109] sts.
Continue without shaping until side edges measure 4 [4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 5] ins. ending on the wrong side.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Sew up shoulder and sleeve seams. Sew up side seams leaving 6 [6 : 6½ : : 7½ : 8 : 8] ins free to form the armholes.
Sew in sleeves.
With right side of collar to wrong side of work, sew shaped edge of collar evenly all round neck edge.
Sew zip fastener in position.

Press seams.

Materials

7 / 9 / 11 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 x 25g balls in main shade (A) and 25g of each of 2 contrast colours (B and C), of double knitting.

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Open-ended zip of the required length.

Tension

21sts to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 (Actual Size: 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40)
Length: 16½ / 18½ / 20½ / 23 / 23/ 23 / 23 ins.
Sleeve seam: 12½ / 14½ / 15½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
s1: slip one stitch knitwise.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a brushed (fluffy) double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart A (larger)

February 2012

For Weekend Rambles...

Sara-the-Mermaid.jpg

Sara, playing her part again as the ultimate 1950's sweater-girl. Unlike the original model (I'm guessing) Sara knitted this elegant creation herself. It's another shapely close-fitting design and has a deep twisted-rib welt which extends flatteringly high over the waist before the cable pattern begins.

Instructions

Instructions for medium size in round brackets thus (). Large size in square brackets thus []. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to all sizes.

Front:

Using No 11 needles, cast on 84 (88) [96] sts and work 6 inches k2, p2 rib. Change to No 10 needles and work a further 2 inches in rib, increasing (6) [8] sts. evenly across on last row of medium and large sizes only. {84 (94) [104] sts}
Change to No 8 needles and pattern.

1st row (right side facing): * k4, p2; then "twist 2" by knitting into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, and then into front of 1st stitch and slipping both sts off needle together; p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.

2nd row: * p 4, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; p4.
3rd row: As first row
4th row: As second row
5th row: As first row
6th row: As second row
7th row: * p1, twist 2, p2, k4, p1; repeat from * to last 4 sts; p1, twist 2, p1.
8th row: * k1, p2, k2, p4, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k1, p2, k1.
9th row: As seventh row.
10th row: As eighth row

These 10 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 96 (106) [116] sts, and incorporating the increased sts into the pattern as you go.

Work straight until front measures 13½ (14) [14] inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (6) [6] sts at beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 76 (82) [90] sts remain. Workstraight until front measures 18½ (19) [19½] inches at centre.

With right side facing, divide for neck:

Next row: Pattern 29 (32) [34], k2tog; turn and leave remaining sts on a spare needle. Continue on first 30 (33) [35] sts, decreasing 1 stitch at neck edge on alternate rows until 24 (27) [27] sts remain. Work straight until front measures 21 (21½) [22] inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 (9) [9] sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge). Fasten off.

Then return to the remaining sts on the spare needle, and slip the centre 14 (14) [18] sts on to a spare needle or stitch holder; rejoin the wool to the last 31 (34) [36] sts at the neck edge (right side facing), k2tog, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Back:

Work exactly as for front until armhole shapings have been completed: 76 (82) [90] sts Work straight in pattern over all sts until back measures same as front up to the shoulder.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 (9) [9] sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; leave the remaining sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves:

Using No 11 needles, cast on 52 (52) [56] sts and work 4 inches in k2/p2 rib. Change to No 10 needles and continue in rib until 8 inches have been worked from the start, increasing 2 (2) [8] sts. evenly across on the last row: 54 (54) [64] sts taking increased sts into the pattern as you go.
Work straight until sleeve measures 18 (18) [18] inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 (5) [6] sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 34 (34) [36] sts remain, then at each end of every row until 24 (24) [24] sts remain.

Cast off.

Neckband:

Join right shoulder seam. With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and k. 92 (92) [96] sts all round neck, including those on spare needle at front and back. Work 1 inch k2/p2 rib; change to No 11 needles and work a further inch in rib.

Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the pattern. Join side, left shoulder and sleeve seams; insert sleeves. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 15 (15) [16] ozs. Patons Moorland
Double Knitting in White. A pair each No. 8, No. 10

Example knitted in Posh Yarn Martha DK - just over 4 x 100g skeins.

1 pair each of No 8 (4mm), No 10 (3¼ mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 33-34 (35-36) [37-38] inch bust; length from top of shoulders, 21½ (22) [22½] inches; sleeve seam, 18 (18)
[18] inches.

Abbreviations

twist 2: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, and then into front of 1st stitch and slip both sts off needle together.
k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Moorland which is a double knitting, yarn. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

16oz is about 9 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

50smodel.jpg

January 2012

Isobel's Little Blanket

IsobelsBlanket.jpg

This is small blanket or cot cover made from 12 crochet squares in chunky yarn (so quick to make). It's based the usual granny-square principle, but a very pretty example of it incorporating the central flower motif.

Instructions

There are a couple of new stitches used in this pattern, as well as basic chain, dc, and treble. There is a "cluster" used in making the central flower, and crab stitch for the edging.

Make cluster:

Working all into the same stitch, **yoh, draw through loop **; repeat from ** to ** 4 times (9 loops on hook); yoh, draw loop through all loops on hook; yoh, draw loop through stitch on hook.
[Editor's note: This last stitch is just "1 chain".]

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right. It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

Motif (make 12)

Starting at the centre of the square: using 7mm hook and first contrast, (plum), make 6ch and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
2nd round: **1 cluster in first dc, 3ch; 1 cluster in next dc, 1ch **; repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first st.
Change to second contrast (cream).
3rd round: Insert hook in first 3-chain space and make 2 chain for first treble; **2tr in same space, 3ch; 3tr in same space, 1ch; 3tr in next 1-chain space, 1ch; 1tr in next 3-chain space, ** repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, omitting the very last tr in the repeated sequence, and join with a slip stitch to top of first chains.
Change to third contrast (lime).
4th round: 1 dc **1dc over each of next 3tr, 3dc into next 3-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space;**. Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.

Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

IsobelsBlanket_detail.jpg

To Make Up

Make 12 squares altogether.

With 7mm hook and 3rd contrast (lime), join 2 squares together; hold right sides together and slip stitch through the back loop of each dc, leaving the front loops exposed as a decorative ridge on the right side (see photos).
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant here, try experimenting. There is a loop on each side of a crochet stitch; usually when placing a stitch on top on the next row, you push your hook through both loops, but for some decorative sts, you are asked to use either only the back or only the front loops in order to create a ridge, Whatever you end up doing, just make sure you are consistent, so that you get a nice consistent pattern emerging.]

Join 3 squares in a row, then join the 4 rows together.

Finally, using first contrast (plum) and right side facing, work a row of dc all around the blanket, and work 2 or 3sts into the 4 corner sts, to make it curve properly. Then, keeping the right side facing you, change to a 6mm hook and go back the way you came, working one row of crab stitch right to left.

Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of chunky in each of first and second contrast and 1 ball in third contrast.


One No 2 (7mm) and one No 4 (6mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each square is intended to measure 4¾ inches.

Size matters

To fit cot, pram, or Moses basket.

Abbreviations

yoh: yarn over hook.
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original yarn produces a tension of 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch. You can substitute an Aran weight yarn worked double throughout, though this is less easy to work with for crochet patterns.

I used Patons Pompero a chunky yarn, knitting to a tension of 16sts x 22 rows to 4 ins, which is thinner, though I used a 7mm hook with it.

Result of my yarn choice is a smaller blanket, requiring only one ball in each colour.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch,
(a picture painting a thousand words and so on).

© Christina Coutts 2007

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