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Archive entry for March 2011

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March 2011

Paris Line Cardigan

ParisLine1.jpg

Here we have Jill modeling her charming version of the Paris Line Cardigan from January 1955. It is so successful and comfortable to wear she is planning a second version for the summer.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

The Back

With No 9 needles cast on 106 (118) {126} stitches and work 10 rows in k2/p2 rib, starting and ending k2 on the first row, and increasing 7 (7) {11} stitches evenly across on last row by working twice into every 14th (16th) {11th} stitch. [113 (125) {137} sts]
Change to No 8 needles and pattern.

1st row (right side facing): k1, * p3, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1, * k1. p3; repeat from * to last 3 sts., k1, p1, k1.
6th row: k2, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last 3 sts.. p1, k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ (15) {15} inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 89 (97) {105} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 5 (5) {5} sts. evenly across on last row: [94 (102) {110} sts]

Next row (right side facing): * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., k2.
Next row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., p2.

Continue straight in rib until back measures 23 (23½) {23½} inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (11) {11} sts. at beginning of next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

Pocket Linings (make 2)

With No. 8 needles, cast on 26 (26) {30} sts. and work 4½ () {} inches stocking stitch ending with a purl row; leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work another piece the same.

Left Front

Left. With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row: * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more, and on last row increase 2 sts. as follows:
Increase row: k1, (p2, k2) 7 times, increase in next stitch, rib to last 4 sts, increase in next stitch, rib 3: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1; (p3, k1) 10 (12) {14} times; p1; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
2nd row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2, k1; (p1, k3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
6th row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2; (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

Repeat these 8 rows until work measures 5 (5) {5} inches from start.

Next row (insert pocket): Pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7}times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.
Next row: rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; (p2, k2) 6 (6) {7} times; p2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, then 1st row once.

Next row (wrong side facing): rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; cast off 26 (26) {30} in rib; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Next row: pattern 8 (12) {14}; pattern across 26 (26) {30} stitches of one of the pocket linings, in place of those cast off; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.

Continue in pattern with 23 sts. at front edge in rib until front measures same as back at side edge and ending with same pattern row.

Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at armhole edge on alternate rows until 53 (59) {65} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 6 (4) {2} sts. evenly across on patterned part of last row: [59 (63) {67} sts]

Now continue in rib over all stitches until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 (11) {11} stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge; leave remaining stitches on a spare needle for the time being.
[Editor's note: You continue on these stitches later when you make the collar.]

Right Front

With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts; p2, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows once more.
Make buttonhole over the next two rows thus: Rib 5, cast off 3, rib to end and back, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows in rib, increasing 2 sts on last row as follows:

Increase row: rib 3, increase in next stitch, rib to last 28sts, increase in next stitch, rib to end: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

Next row: k3, (p2, k2) 5 times; p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
Next row: k1, (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k1, p2; (k2, p2) 5 times; k1.

Finish to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings and making 4 more buttonholes as before up front edge, the last one to come about 1 inch below start of yoke ribbing, and the remaining 3 evenly spaced between. Mark position of buttons on left front with pins, then work holes to correspond.

The first row of pocket top will read:
With right side facing, rib 23, pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7} times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Sleeves

With No. 10 needles, cast on 54 (54) {54} sts. and work 3 inches k2/p2 rib, having a k2 at each end on the right side, and increasing 3 sts. evenly across on last row: 57 (57) {57} sts.

Change to No 8 needles and work 8 rows in pattern as for back.

Continue in pattern and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73) {73}sts, then on every following 4th row until there are 83 (83) {83}stitches, taking the extra stitches into pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts. at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 45 (45) {45} sts. remain, then at each end of every row until 25 (25) {25} sts. remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Roll Collar: On the left front, continue in rib on the remaining 29 (30) {34} sts. working short rows to provide shaping thus:

** Work ½ (½) {1} inch in rib, ending at the front edge.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib to last 9 sts; turn; rib to end.
Repeat from ** twice more.
Continue straight in rib until piece fits round to centre back of neck; cast off in rib.
Then on the rightfront. Work as for left but with right instead of wrong side facing when shaping.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join collar very neatly, matching ribs carefully; sew along back of neck.

Catch down pocket linings.
Sew on buttons.
Work a row of double crochet, then a row of slip-stitches up front edge and round back of neck.
Press seams.

Materials

Original uses Patons Double Quick Knitting,
in Jade Green.
21 (22) {23} ozs

[Jill used 11 x 50g balls Phildar Partner 3.5]

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 9 (3¾mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

5 buttons.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
33-34 (35-36) {37-38} inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23 (23½) {23½} inches; and
sleeve seam, 18 (18) {18} inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a vintage Bainin yarn.

Jill used Phildar Partner 3.5 (50% Nylon / 25% Wool / 25% Acrylic: 111m per 50g ball).

Jill's plan for the summer version: Phildar Cabotine (55% Cotton / 45% Acrylic: 124 metres per 50g ball)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Stitch Detail

© Christina Coutts 2007

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