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Archive entry for December 2014

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December 2014

Old Shale Angel

OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg

A really pretty top using the ubiquitous but nonetheless charming old shale (or old shell) stitch. Originally it was knitted in fine white cotton bands interspersed with a fine slightly fluffy yarn, giving it a summery feel. However - how charming it would be in red and white for a small person's party outfit at Christmas. I am not sure how I would arrange the colours for a winter version - I favour the dominant red colour for the plain garter stitch - but it might be interesting to have the white as the fluffy bands simulating fur trimming.

The pattern is for an entire outfit with pants, and some cute little cotton sandals (of dubious value...!).

Instructions for Angel Top

The angel top is worked in a combination garter stitch (every row knitted) and a Wave pattern using "old shale" (or shell) stitch.

When working the Wave pattern, carry the yarn not in use loosely up the side of the work.

Angel Top - main section

This section is worked in one piece up to the armhole.

Using 3mm needles and pink yarn (A) , cast on 192 sts and knit one row.

Continuing with yarn A begin Wave pattern as follows:

1st row (right side) : Knit.
2nd - 4th rows: Knit

Join in white yarn (B), working 5th - 14th rows in white:

5th row: Sl 1; * (k2tog) 3 times; (k1, yfwd) 6 times; k1; (k2tog) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
6th row:
Purl.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: Purl.
9th - 14th rows: Repeat rows 5-8 once, then rows 5 and 6 again.

These 14 rows form the pattern,

Repeat the pattern 3 (4) times more, then work the 1st to 3rd rows again.

Divide for armhole:

Next row (wrong side): K57, increase in the next 2 sts, k74, increase in the next st, and leave these 137 sts on a stitch holder; increase in the next st, knit to end.

Continue on these remaining 59 sts to make the Left Back. Work rows 5-14, break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K6; (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2) 7 times, k4. [45 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 24 (27½) cm, or 9½ (10¾) inches, ending with a right side row.

Cast off, placing a marker for the collar on the 26th stitch from the end.

With right side facing, rejoin white yarn B to sts on stitch holder and pattern 78 (as 5th row of Wave pattern); turn and leave remaining sts on stitch holder.

Continue in pattern on these 78 sts for Front and work rows 6-14.
Break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K4; (k2tog, k2) 18 times, k2. [60 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 20 (23½) cm, or 7¾ () inches, ending with a right side row.

Shape Neck:

Next row (wrong side): K27 and leave on a stitch holder; cast off 6 sts; knit to end.

Continue on remaining 27 sts for first side:

1st and every alternate row: Knit

2nd row (wrong side): cast off 3 sts, knit to end.
4th row: cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row:
cast off 1 st, knit to end.
8th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.
10th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.

Work a few rows on remaining 19 sts until Front matches Left Back to shoulder.
Cast off.


With right side facing, rejoin yarn A to 27 sts of front left on stitch holder and k27.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shaping.

With right side facing, rejoin white to 59 sts on stitch holder and pattern 59 (as 5th row of Wave pattern).
Finish Right Back to correspond with Left Back, reversing placing of marker for Collar.

Angel Top - sleeves

With 2½mm needles and yarn A, cast on 30 sts and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (wrong side): K1, (ml, k1) 29 times. [59 sts]

Change to 3mm needles, join in white yarn B and beginning with 5th row of the Wave pattern, work in pattern until sleeve measures approximately 11 (14½) cm, or 4¼ () inches, ending with a 14th pattern row.

Break off yarn B and continue in yarn A only.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a stitch holder.

Angel Top - collar

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 120 sts and work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn A, and join in yarn B.

1st row: Sl 1 , * k1, yfwd, k4, k2tog, sl 1, k1, psso, K4, yfwd; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: purl.

Rep these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: Sl 1 , * k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. [93 sts]
Cast off.

Angel Top - neck band

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 60 sts and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Making Up the Angel Top

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams.
Join sleeves to main part, unpicking contrast yarn and working stitch by stitch in back stitch on right side.
Sew Collar into neck opening, starting and ending at back markers.
Sew Neck Border over Collar, joining to Main Part in same way as the sleeves.
Make 2 buttonhole loops at Left Back and sew buttons on Right Back to correspond.

Materials

1 x 50g ball yarn A (pink),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (white)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Stitch holders.

2 buttons.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Yarn A: 25sts x 38 rows and yarn B: 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn A was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Yarn B was their 100% cotton "Perlé 5" yarn with a yardage of 219 yards (200 meters). I used a substitute Twilleys thread for this.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelOutfit.jpg


Instructions for Pants

The pants are worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted) in one piece, starting at the front waist, working down to the crotch, and then up the back, ending at the back waist.

Begin at front and with 2½mm needles cast on 48(56) sts and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 3mm needles and work 8(10) cms 3¼() inches in garter stitch, noting that 1st row you knitted is the right side, and ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for leg openings:

Next row: Knit 13(17) and leave on a stitch holder; k22, turn, and leave remaining 13 (17) sts on a stitch holder.

Continue on these centre 22 sts and work 9(10) cms 3½() inches in garter stitch,ending with a right side row.
Break yarn and leave 22 sts on a stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on first stitch holder and knit to end.
Continue on these 13(17) sts for left side of pants and work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a wrong side row.

** Begin shaping side by decreasing 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 6th(4th) row.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 4th row 2(1) times. [8(13) sts]
Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 1(2) alternate rows. [6(10) sts]
Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next and following 0(1) alternate rows. [4(6) sts]
Break yarn and leave these sts on a stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on 2nd stitch holder and knit to end. [13(17) sts]
Work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a right side row.

Shape Front Sides

Working right side of pants as left side from ** until 6(8) sts remain, ending at side edge.

Continue shaping sides and join all 3 parts to close leg openings:

Next row (wrong side): cast off 2 sts, k4(6) (including st left on needle after cast-off), k22 from centre, then k4(6) from left side. [30(34) sts]
Continue working across all stitches:

Next 2 rows: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 2 rows: Cast off 2(3) sts, knit to end
Next 2 rows: Cast Off 3(4) sts, knit to end.
Work 2 rows on remaining 16 sts.

Shape Back

2nd SIZE
Next 2 rows: Cast on 4 sts, knit to end.

BOTH SIZES
Next 2 rows: Cast on 3 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 rows: Cast on 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 (8) rows: Cast on 1 st, knit to end.
Work 3 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row 2 times. [46(56) sts]

1st SIZE
Work 5 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of the next row. [48 sts ]

BOTH SIZES
Continue straight until Back matches Front to start of rib.
Change to 2½mm needles and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pants

Leg Borders: With right side facing and using set of 4 needles, knit up 46(51) sts round each leg opening and work in rounds.

1st round: Purl
2nd round: Knit
Rep these 2 rows twice more.
Cast off loosely purlways.

Join side seams.

Materials

Pants: 1x 50g ball [suggested to be 257 yards / (235 meters]

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.
Set of 4, 2½mm (UK 12) needles with points at both ends.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

25sts x 38 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn used for the Pants was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelSandals.jpg

Instructions for Sandals

With 2mm hook make 20 chain foundation row.

SOLE

1st round: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 17ch, 3 dc in next ch, then back along other side of foundation: 1 ch: 1 dc in each of next 18 ch, 3 dc in next ch, sl st to join.

Work 2 more rounds, working 3 dc in stitch at each end of sole as before.

4th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 3 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice; sl st to join.

5th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 5 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts) twice; sl st to join. [66 sts]

Work 1 round dc on these 66 sts to complete sole and fasten off.

With right side facing, mark 33 sts round one end of sole and work back of sandal working back and forth in rows:

1st row: Rejoin yarn. 3 ch; miss 1 st; 1 tr in next st; (1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr in next st) 15 times, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch and tr on previous row. [33 sts]
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: 2 ch, 1 tr in each ch and tr on previous row.
5th row: As 1st row.
6th row: Without turning, work in crab stitch back across the row.

Fasten Off.

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right (assuming you are right handed and normally crochet from left to right). It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

TOE

Make 18 ch.
Foundation Row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end.
Mark centre st.
2nd row: work a row of dc, working 3 dc in centre stitch.
3rd row: work a row of dc, working 5 dc in centre stitch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along shaped edge.
Fasten off.

STRAPS for TOP of SANDAL

Make 26 ch and work Foundation Row as for Toe. [25 sts]

2nd and 3rd rows: 1 ch, 1 dc in each stitch to end.
Break yarn.

Miss 11 sts and rejoin yarn to next stitch 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches. [3 sts]

Work 3cms (1¼ inches) in dc on these 3 sts, then continue in crab stitch round all edges, making a buttonhole at each side of 3 dc strip,
and as close as possible to the tip.

To Make a Buttonhole

2 ch, miss 2 rows, 1 dc in next row.

ANKLE STRAP

Make 17 ch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along both sides.

TO MAKE UP

Sew Toe and Sandal Straps in place on sole, (see photo).
Join Ankle Strap to top of Sandal Back; pass through buttonholes worked on each side of the 3 dc strap.
Work buttonhole loop at end of Ankle Strap, and sew button to Sandal to correspond.
Work a row of crab stitch round outer edge of Sole.


Make a second sandal and reverse position of Ankle Strap and button.

Materials

1 ball cotton 3 ply - possible yardage: 219 yards (200 meters).

2mm crochet hook.

2 small buttons

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Equivalent tension of 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Phildar 100% cotton "Perlé 5" with a suggested yardage of 219 yards (200 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Notes on English Crochet Stitches

Double crochet:
draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble*:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble*:
pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble*:
pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

* not used in this pattern.


Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch - a picture painting a thousand words and so on.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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