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Archive entry for September 2014

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September 2014

Honeycomb Cardigan

HoneycombCardiganC.jpg

I am very keen on this clever slip stitch method of making a honeycomb pattern. This cardigan is from the 1980s knitted in a bouclé chunky yarn. I thought it makes a good option if (as I do) you love a design in the latest Rowan magazine (56), but want something quicker and easier to knit. I have mocked up a colour scheme to show what it might look like, using 2 contrast spots instead of 6, making the sleeves plain and adding coloured bands; you could also make bracelet length sleeves (also a favourite of mine) but maybe less appropriate in a chunky weight cardigan.

One benefit of the design as it stands is that you could potentially use up left over yarn in the contrast spots - you could even have every set of spotted rows a different colour for a fun design.

Instructions.

The pattern is given in 3 sizes; the smallest size first and the 2nd and third sizes in brackets. Where only one number is given it applies to all 3 sizes.

Back

With Main (M) wool and No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 56 stitches. Work in k1/p1 rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (8, 0), * increase in the next stitch, rib 3 (3, 4); repeat from * to last 0 (0, 4) stitches. For 3rd size increase in next stitch rib 3. [69 (73, 77) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row. Now work in pattern thus:

1st row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
4th row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
5th row: with M, knit.
6th row: with M, purl.

7th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
8th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
9th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
10th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
11th and 12th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

13th to 16th rows - with 3rd contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
17th and 18th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

19th to 22nd rows - with 4th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
23rd and 24th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

25th to 28th rows - with 5th contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
29th and 30th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

31st to 34th rows - with 6th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
35th and 36th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

These 36 rows form the pattern, and are repeated throughout.

Note: you can carry yarns not in use loosely up the side of the work to avoid too many joins.

Continue until work measures 37 cm, 14½ inches, from beginning, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Armholes:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row until 53 (57, 61) stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 58 (59, 60) cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 4 (6, 5) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Slip remaining 25 (25, 27) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Left front

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 27 (31, 31) stitches. Work in k1/p1
rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, beginning alternate rows with p1, and finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: * Rib 3 (4, 4), increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 3 (1, 1) stitches; rib 3 (1, 1). [33 (37, 37) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.

Continue in pattern as for back and work straight until front is same length as back to armhole, finishing at side edge, with same patt row.

Shape Armhole:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge of the next 4 alternate rows. [25 (29, 29) sts]
Continue without further shaping until work measures 54cm, 21¼ inches, finishing at front edge.

Shape Neck:
Cast off 3 (4, 4) stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge on every row until 14 (16, 17) stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work is same length as back to shoulder, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row and the following alternate row. [4 (6, 5) sts]

Work one row.
Cast off

Right front

Work as for left front, reversing shaping.

Sleeves (both alike)

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 32 stitches.

Work in

Next row: Work in rib, increasing in every 6th stitch. [37 sts]

Change to 6mm needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.
Work as for the 19th to 36th rows of the back, at the same time increasing one stitch at each end of the 7th row and every following
8th row.

Then beginning with the 1st pattern row, continue in main pattern as for the back, still increasing on every 8th row until there are 53 stitches, working new stitches into the pattern as soon as possible.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 45cm, 17½ inches, finishing with the same pattern row as on the back at armhole shaping.

Shape Top:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of the next 8 (6, 6) rows. Then, decrease one stitch at each end of every 4th row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Do not press.
[Editor's note: That is an instruction for the boucle yarn as well as the pattern. For smooth yarns you can press lightly with a damp cloth.]
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.

Neckband:

With 4mm needles and M, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches up right neck, knit across stitches from back increasing 2 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches down left neck. [71 (73, 75) sts]
Work in k1 /p1 rib for 9 rows, beginning alternate rows with p1.
Cast off in rib.

Buttonband:

With 4 mm needles and M, cast on 7 stitches. Work in rib as for neckband until band is long enough, when slightly stretched, to fit up left front. Cast off in rib.

Mark positions for 8 buttons, the first and last to come about 1cm,
½ inch, from cast-on and cast-off edges, with the rest evenly spaced
between.

Buttonhole band:

Work as for buttonband, making buttonholes to match marked positions by casting off 3 centre stitches in one row and casting on 3 stitches in next row.

Set in sleeves, gathering top edge slightly to fit into armholes.
Sew on front bands. Press seams lightly.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

7 (7, 8) 50g balls in main colour. and 2 50g balls in each of 6 Contrasts.
One pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 4 (6mm) knitting needles.

8 buttons.

Tension

14 stitches and 22 rows to 10 centi-
metres (4 inches) measured over
pattern. using 6 mm needles.

Size matters

To fit 86 (91, 97) centimetre,34 (36,
38) inch, bust.
Length, 58 (59, 60)
cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches.
Sleeve seam, 45cm 17½ inches.

A Word on the Wool

Sirdar Romano is a chunky bouclé yarn knitting to a tension of 14-16 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch - which is an average chunky weight. Check the yarn you substitute as chunky covers a fairly wide range of numbers, and adjust your needle size by knitting a swatch.
I have no information on yardage but from memory it was a light weight yarn thus may have had a good yardage - so you may need more than stated if using a different yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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