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SixtiesTrouserSuit.jpg
BrightChunky.jpg
BeautifulBrioche
WellWrapped.jpg
PartyFrills.jpg
DiamondSuit.jpg
OutInTheOpenHer.jpg OutInTheOpenHim.jpg
BeachTunic.jpg
KimonoCardigan.jpg
CapSleeveSummerTop.jpg
CoronationTwinset.jpg
SurfSeekers1.jpg
SurfSeekers2.jpg
GreenIsTheColour2
HighlandHarmony.jpg
SnowBaby.jpg
SixtiesTrouserSuit.jpg
PopSocks.jpg
CrochetDress.jpg
CoolCustomer.jpg
LongLacySweater.jpg
TweedDress.jpg
GentlemenPreferGrey.jpg
SetUpForTheCold.jpg
SnugToddlerGown.jpg
NordicCardigan3.jpg
CasualCountryWeekend.jpg
BeachMeshCoverUp.jpg
CottonTee.jpg
HolidayHat1.jpg
MadeForEachOther.jpg
SpringOutlook
FullerFigureTwinset.jpg
NordicSlipover3.jpg
ArgyllSocks.jpg
BeltedSweaters.jpg
PartyDress.jpg
CrochetCardi.jpg
Criss-Cross.jpg
BunnySlipovers.jpg
MansLumberJacket11.jpg
AgainstTheCold.jpg
TraditionalArans.jpg
SmockTops75.jpg
Lopi2019.jpg
CountrySlipover.jpg
MustardYellowSweater.jpg
SunSet1.jpg
3ozHighNeck.jpg
3ozLowNeck.jpg
CricketPullover.jpg
ColourfulBolero.jpg
SpringThickie1.jpg
JellyBagHat.jpg
ChristmasMorningSoldiers1.jpg
EveningTops1.jpg
OperaCoat.jpg
PlainJane.jpg
BoldColourSweater.jpg
SunHat3.jpg
DayBlouse.jpg
SweetheartSweaters.jpg
Blazer.jpg
ShetlandFolkTunic.jpg
ChristmasMorningPlane1.jpg
IrishKnotWrap.jpg
ShetlandFolkSweater.jpg
TeamMatesForOutdoors.jpg
BeachCoat1.jpg
SunHat1.jpg

BlushingBride.jpg
SunRayTop.jpg
TabardPullover.jpg
FrenchConnectionSweater.jpg
BeadedTop.jpg
LittleLumberJacket.jpg
PlaidSlipover.jpg
FringedWaistcoat.jpg
TennisDress.jpg
DiamondMarine.jpg

DucksSlippers.jpg
SashCardigan.jpg
Coatigan1.jpg
MidiCardigan2.jpg
LinedCape.jpg
WraparoundCape.jpg
ClassicSchoolPullover3.jpg
SwimSet.jpg
HolidayJumper3.jpg
AndyPandyRomper.jpg
DucksOnParade.jpg
GuernseySocks5.jpg
TweedCoat1.jpg
OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg
PonchoCape1.jpg
HoneycombCardigan9.jpg
SunJersey3a.jpg
SnappySwimSuit.jpg
PinStripedJumper.jpg
BunnySuits.jpg
BobbleCape1.jpg
CrossSeason1.jpg
Stormcheater.jpg
FiresideSlippers.jpg
FancyRibJacket.jpg
PrettyBolero.jpg
CrochetBootees.jpg
KnittedBootees.jpg
CrochetDress.jpg
MockCableMay1957.jpg
EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg
KnitForSpring.jpg
HeirloomShawlC.jpg
HoodedScarf3.jpg
NurserySlippers.jpg
Florence.jpg
P&BMoorlandJacket.jpg
ClocheCap.jpg
MansChequeredSweater.jpg
CoolTrend2c.jpg
CoolTrend1.jpg
BabyShawletteFront.jpg
WellySocks1.jpg
AliceBandBonnet3.jpg
ZipperedJackets1.jpg
ZipperedJackets1286.jpg
Sara-the-Mermaid.jpg
HoneycombBedsocks.jpg
SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg
SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg
FamilyFairIsle.jpg
JacobsBag.jpg

MuffetPinny.jpg
MuffetDress.jpg
NauticalTop2.jpg
LadyGloves1.jpg
LadyGloves2.jpg
ParisLine1.jpg
LivingAran2.jpg
WinterWonderHat6.jpg
BridgeJumper.jpg
SportSocks.jpg
AllYearTopBack.jpg
RaglanReeferB&W.jpg

CableYokealaMode.jpg
MatchingMittens.jpg
CosyCableSocks.jpg
BoyfriendCardigan.jpg
DaintyBolero.jpg
TennisSocks.jpg
PolkaDotTop.jpg
DucklingCardigan.jpg
ValentineBeadMit1.jpg
ValentineIntarsiaMit2.jpg
WinterWaistcoat1.jpg
HugMeTight2.jpg
LynsSocks1.jpg

EngagingTop1.jpg
TrimGloves1.jpg
PrettyWoolley3.jpg
BunnySlippers.jpg
Forces_mittens.jpg
Honeycomb_scarf2.jpg
SparklingStole.jpg
cable_beret.jpg
YachtingSweater.jpg
happi_robe.jpg
Cocktail_top.jpg
fichu.jpg
capelet.jpg
bedjacket.jpg

Entry Listings below or return to top for gallery view.

April 2024

Perfectly Suited

PerfectlySuited.jpg

Eye-catching (to say the least...) outfit in colours typical for the 1970s (although other colour palette suggestions are provided in the original pattern).
Very much of its time - but the plain roll-neck sweater (with its light textured detail), and the sleeveless cardigan (maybe without the buttons?) might translate to a pleasing contemporary combination.

"Smart three-piece suit: polo sweater in twisted stocking stitch, skirt and sleeveless cardigan in 4-colour tweed-effect. "

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 108 (114, 120) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work in twisted stocking stitch thus:
1st Row: knit across all stitches through back loop (ktbl).
2nd Row: purl.
These 2 rows form twisted stocking stitch ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch until work measures 16 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 80 (84, 88) stitches remain ★★.

Continue straight until work measures 23 (23½, 24) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 6 (7, 8) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 36 (38, 40) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the back neck.

Jumper Front

Work as for the back up to ★★.
Continue straight until work measures 21 (21½, 22) inches, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: ktbl 29 (30, 31) stitches; turn.
Continue on these stitches only.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows.
Work 8 rows straight.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches.

With right side facing, slip the centre 22 (24, 26) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Complete the other side of the neck to match.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 11 needles, cast on 44 (46, 48) stitches.
Work as for the back to ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 72 (78, 84) stitches
Continue straight until work measures 17 inches.

To shape the top cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 stitches remain; then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 10 rows.
Cast off.

Jumper Polo Collar

Join the right shoulder.
With right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 18 stitches down the left side of the neck, ktbl the stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 18 stitches up the right side of the neck, ktbl
the stitches from the back neck. [94 (98, 102) sts]

Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 9 needles and rib a further 3½ inches.
Cast off loosely ribwise.


Sleeveless Cardigan Back

Using No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 115 (123, 131) stitches.

Moss Stitch row: k1, (p1, k1) to end.

Editors note: Moss stitch - or "seed stitch" - is worked by alternating knit and purl stitches on every row - like ribbing. However, unlike ribbing, you do not align the knit and purl stitches vertically above each other but do the exact opposite; so, as you view the stitches, you will knit a stitch showing a purl "bump" from the previous row, and purl into a knit stitch.
"Double moss stitch" (not seen in this pattern) is usually where you do 2 rows of apparent rib with the stitches aligned vertically, then for the next two "rib" rows you misalign them with the previous two rows - and so on.
The row given above works up into moss stitch when repeated on an odd number of stitches.

Repeat the Moss Stitch row row 9 times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st Row: with main shade M, k1, (sl1 purlwise, k3) to the last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, k1.
2nd Row: with M, p1, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p1.
3rd Row: join in first contrast (O), (sl1 purlwise, k3) to end.
4th Row: with O, p3, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to end.
5th and 6th Rows: with 2nd contrast (R) work as 1st and 2nd rows.
7th and 8th Rows: with 3rd contrast (G) work as 3rd and 4th rows.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Pattern until work measures 21 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 83 (87, 91) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Work as for the back of the sweater.
Leave the remaining 39 (41, 43) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Editors note: Although the original pattern explicitly states to leave these stitches, I do not see why you would not cast them off at this point - given that you are not required to pick them up again at any point later on, and the edging band is designed to be sewn all around the fronts and back neck.

Sleeveless Cardigan Right Front

Using No. 11 needles and M cast on 59 (63, 67) stitches.
Work as for the back up to the armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Armhole and Front Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 (10, 11) rows, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row; then continue shaping front edge only, until 22 (23, 24) stitches remain.
Work 5 rows.

Shoulder Shaping :
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches

Sleeveless Cardigan Left Front

Work as for the right front, reversing shapings.

Sleeveless Cardigan Bands

Join shoulders.
Using No 11 needles and main shade cast on 9 stitches.
Work 2 inches in moss stitch.

Next Row (make buttonhole): moss stitch 3, cast off 3, moss stitch 3.
Next Row: moss stitch 3, cast on 3, moss stitch 3.
Continue in moss stitch, making further buttonholes 2½ inches apart (measure from base of previous buttonhole) until there are 8 in all.
Continue until band, when slightly stretched, fits all around both fronts
and across back neck.
Cast off.

Work the armbands in the same way, omitting the buttonholes.


Skirt (Back and Front Alike)

Using No 11 needles and colour M, cast on 147 (155, 163) stitches.
Work 10 rows in moss stitch.
Change to No 8 needles and working in pattern as for the sleeveless cardigan, decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row until 101 (109, 117 ) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 20 (20½, 21) inches.

Change to No 11 needles, and using M, work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row with "p1".
Cast off loosely ribwise.


Making Up

Press or block work according to yarn type.

Sweater:
Join the left shoulder and polo collar seams.
Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Sleeveless Cardigan:
Join the side seams.
Sew on the front band.
Join the cast-on and cast-off edges of the armbands.
Sew on the armbands with the seam placed at the underarms.
Sew on the buttons.

Skirt:
Join the side seams.
Join the elastic in a ring and attach to the wrong side of the waist with a herringbone casing.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 1 oz balls:
Jumper:
16 (17, 18)
Sleeveless cardigan:
5 (5, 6) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours
Skirt:
3 (3, 3) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 9 (3¾mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

8 buttons for cardigan.
Waist-length elastic for skirt

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over twisted stocking stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

24 sts x 40 rows measured over Pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34, (36, 38) inches; hips 36 (38, 40) inches.

Sleeveless cardigan length: 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Skirt length:
21 (21½, 22) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit the stitch through the back loop (thus twisting the stitch)
k2tog/p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.

M - Gold
O - Orange
R - Red
G - Green

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a pure wool double knitting crepe.

The later yarn sold in 50g balls states a yardage of 123yds/112m per 50g.

Colours illustrated:
Sun Gold,
Mexican Orange,
Love Apple Red,
Woodland Green.
Suggested other combinations:
Ivory, Peach,
Roman Pink, and
Medoc - or -
White, Peacock.
Club Navy, and
Aubretia.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2024

Just add colour...

BrightChunky.jpg

Choose a colourful chunky knit to herald the Spring season to come.
It's still cold enough for a thicker woollen, but you can brighten up the dark days of February with this chunky sweater - which is also quick to knit!

Don't just stick with the naval theme - take inspiration from these Oliver Bonas knits: here, here, or here.

Instructions.

Back and Front (alike)

Using 4½mm needles, and W (white yarn), cast on 67 (71, 73, 77) stitches, and work 2 (2, , ) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 5 (7, 5, 7) * increase in next stitch; rib 7 (7, 8, 8); repeat from * to last 6 (8, 5, 7) stitches; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [75, 79, 81, 85 sts].

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Joining on and cutting off colours as required, proceed in pattern as follows, noting that stitches increased on Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 are decreased to the original number on Rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 14.

Row 1 (right side): knit with main shade W (white).
Row 2: Using W, p4 (6, 7, 9); [k 13, p5] 3 times; k13, p4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 3: Using W, k2 (4, 5, 7); [yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k1] 3 times; yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k2 (4, 5, 7).
Row 4: Using W, p5 (7, 8, 10), [k5, k3tog, k5, p7] 3 times; k5, k3tog, k5, p5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 5: Using W, k3 (5, 6, 8); [yfwd, k15, yfwd, k3] 3 times; yfwd, k15, yfwd. k3 (5, 6, 8).
Row 6: Using W, p6 (8, 9, 11); [k4, k3tog; k4, p9] 3 times; k4, k3tog, k4, p6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 7: Using W, k4 (6, 7, 9), [yfwd, k 13, yfwd, k5) 3 times, yfwd, k13, yfwd,. k4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 8: Using W, p7 (9, 10, 12), [k3, k3tog, k3, p11] 3 times, k3, k3tog, k3, p7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 9: Using R (red yarn), k5 (7, 8, 10); [yfwd, k11, yfwd, k7] 3 times, yfwd, k11, yfwd, k5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 10: Using R, p8 (10, 11, 13); [k2, k3tog, k2, p13) 3 times; k2, k3tog, k2, p8 (10, 11, 13).
Row 11: Using W, k6 (8, 9, 11); [yfwd, k9] 7 times; yfwd, k6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 12: Using W, p9 (11, 12, 14), [k1, k3tog, k1, p15] 3 times, k1, k3tog, k1, p9 (11, 12, 14).
Row 13: Using W, k7 (9, 10, 12), [yfwd, k7, yfwd, k11] 3 times, yfwd, k7, yfwd, k7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 14: Using W, p10 (12, 13, 15), [k3tog, p17] 3 times; k3tog, p10 (12, 13, 15).

Editors note: Now you repeat the same pattern sections but change the colours.

Rows 15 to 22: As Rows 1 to 8 but use R instead of W.
Rows 23 and 24
: As Rows 9 and 10 but use N instead of R.
Rows 25 to 28: As Rows 11 to 14 but use R instead of W.
Rows 29 to 36
: As Rows 1 to 8 but use N instead of W.
Rows 37 and 38
: As Rows 9 and 10 but use W instead of R.
Rows 39 to 42
: As Rows 11 to 14 but use N instead of W.

These 42 Rows form the pattern repeat them once more, then work Rows 1 to 14 again.
Now work Rows 1 to 14 once more. Cut off B and C.
Work 5 Rows in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Using 4½mm needles, and W, cast on 37 (37, 39, 39) stitches, and work 2 (2, , ) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 2; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 5 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 6 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; rib to end. [75, 75, 79, 79 sts]

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Following instructions for the 1st (1st, 2nd, 2nd) sizes work the 42 pattern rows as for the Back twice, then work rows 1 to 14 again.
Cast off.

To Make Up

See the yarn ball band for washing and pressing details.

Join shoulder seams leaving approximately 9 (, , 10) inches open at the centre for the neck.
Mark depth of armholes 8¾ (, , ) inches down from the shoulders on the back and front.
Set the sleeves in between the markers, then join the side and sleeve seams.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
6 (6, 6, 7) x 50g balls in main colour Snowdrop (white);
3 (3, 3, 3) balls in Grenadier (red); and
2 (3, 3, 3) balls in Navy (dark blue).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm) and No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Tension

17sts and 24 rows to 4 inches over pattern stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
35 (37, 38, 40) inches.
Editors note: This is intended to be a loose fit to suit a 32 - 38 inch chest size.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it.
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was:
65% Acrylic
20% Wool
15% Nylon - yardage not given

Note that chunky yarns can cover a wide variation in thickness so check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BrightChunky.jpg

January 2024

Beautiful Brioche

BeautifulBrioche

Wonderfully cosy raglan sweater stitched in two vibrant colours. Fisherman's rib - or brioche as it now seems to be called, (no link to French bread as far as I can see) - is fantastically squishy and lovely - well worth the effort.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (right side): With B, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (right side): With A, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (wrong side): With B, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

  • When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
  • When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
  • When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 85 (89, 93) stitches and work in single rib:
**
1st row (right side)
: K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches (8cm) from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.
**
Increase row: Rib 6 (8, 10), [double increase, rib 7] 9 times, double increase, rib 6 (8, 10). [105 (109, 113) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue until work measures 13½ (14, 15) inches from the beginning.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (29, 29) times.

Cast off remaining 31 stitches for back neck.

Front

Work as for back until 114 (120, 124) rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan shaping; 39 stitches remain for all sizes, ending with a decrease row.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: Pattern 13, and leave these stitches on a holder; cast off the next 13 stitches; pattern to end.
Continue on these last 13 stitches now remaining on the needle.


***
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 6 rows, and then at the same edge on the next 2 alternate rows, and at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows; then decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every following 4th row twice.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the other set of 13 stitches, and complete in the same way, from *** reversing shaping.

Note that the front is overall 4 rows shorter than the back.

Left Sleeve

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (55, 55) stitches and work as for back welt from ** to **.

Increase row: Rib 4 (6, 6), [double increase, rib 13] 3 times, double increase, rib 4 (6, 6). [59 (63, 63) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 6 (8, 3) times, then every following 8th row 12 (10, 17) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.
[95 (99, 103) sts]

Continue straight until work measures 16 (16½, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a 3rd (5th, 5th) pattern row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 22 (23, 23) times; for all sizes 33 stitches remain, ending with a 5th pattern row.
****

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches for the back sleeve section on a spare needle; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for front section of sleeve.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 9 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 4 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for back sleeve section.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 5 times, then every following 4th row 3 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 5 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Note that front edge off sleeve is 4 rows shorter than back edge.

Right Sleeve

Work as for left sleeve to ****.

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches on a spare needle for front sleeve section; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for back section of right sleeve, and complete as for back section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for front sleeve section, and complete as for front section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Make Up and Neck Borders

Join front raglan seams and right back seam matching vertical stripes. With right side of work facing and using No 11 (3mm) needles, using main colour A, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the neck opening at the top of the left sleeve, 41 stitches round front neck edge, 15 stitches along neck opening at the top of the right sleeve and 32 stitches across the back neck.
Beginning with the 2nd row work in single rib as on the welt for 9 rows then cast off loosely ribwise.
Join left back raglan seam and the ends of the neck border.
Fold this border in half to the wrong side, and slip-stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.
Join side and sleeve seams.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - purple;
5 (6, 6) in contrast colour B - bright teal.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BeautifulBriocheDiagram

December 2023

Well wrapped up

WellWrapped.jpg

This is a pleasing and relatively simple set for a child, with a sweater and hat worked in a two-colour fair-isle pattern. To match, we have a plain coloured pair of mittens, and a simple pair of trousers - all in double knitting weight yarn.

Instructions

Sweater Back and Front alike:

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 11 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).

Work 10 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row. *
Change to No 9 needles, join in C, and work the pattern from the chart. Work the odd rows as knit, reading the chart from right to left, and repeating the 12 stitches before the dotted line to the last stitch, then k1 stitch beyond the dotted line. Work the even rows as purl, reading the chart from left to right, purling the first stitch (before dotted line), and then repeating the 12 stitches beyond dotted line to end.

WellWrappedChart.jpg

Continue until 3 complete patterns have been worked (or until work measures 16 inches from hemline), ending with a purl row.
Break off C.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch with MC.

Shoulder Shaping: Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Purl 1 row (hemline). Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row. Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 49 stitches.
Work as back to *.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for the back, increase 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there
are 61 stitches
Continue until the 26th row of the 2nd pattern has been worked (or until the sleeve measures 10 inches from the hemline).
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Trousers Right Leg:

Beginning at the ankle, with No 10 needles, and MC cast on 76 stitches. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch knit 1 row (hemline).
Change to No 9 needles and continue in stocking stitch until leg
measures 15 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.
Continue straight, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until there are 88 stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Mark each end of last row for the top of the leg.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until 68 stitches remain. Continue until work measures 24½ inches from hemline *, ending with a knit row. **

Shape back by working short rows thus:
Purl 12; turn, knit to end.
Purl 24; turn, knit to end.
Purl 36; turn, knit to end.
Purl 48; turn, knit to end.
Next row: Purl across all stitches.

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Trousers Left Leg:

Work as right leg to *, ending with a purl row.
Complete as right leg from ** but working knit instead of purl, and purl
instead of knit.

Hat:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 97 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row p1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back of sweater until one complete pattern from the chart has been worked (or until work measures 5½ inches), ending with a purl row.
Break off C and continue with MC only.

Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of 1st row. [96 sts].

Shape top thus:
Next row: (k2tog, k6); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k5); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k4); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 24 stitches remain. Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog); repeat to end. [12 sts]
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Mitts (make 2 alike):

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 39 stitches.
Work 2 inches rib as beginning of hat.
Change to No 9 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch.
Shape Thumb thus:
Next row: k19, pick up loop that lies before next stitch and knit it through back loop (referred to as make 1), k1, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k19, m1, k3, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Continue to increase in this way, working 2 stitches more between the increases on every alternate row until there are 51 stitches
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k32; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Next row: p14; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch on these 15 stitches
Next row: (k2tog, k 1) 5 times.
Next row: (p2tog) 5 times.
Break off wool, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and
fasten off securely.
Join thumb seam.

With right side facing and 32 stitches on right hand needle, rejoin yarn at the base of the thumb; pick up and knit 2 stitches at the base of thumb, knit the 6 stitches to the end of the row end. [40 sts].
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch on these stitches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k14, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k12, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: ( k2tog) across row to end.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press or block work.

Sweater: Join shoulder and neck facing seams.
Sew top of sleeves to sides, beginning and ending 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn in hems and catch-stitch in place.

Trousers: Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up hems and catch-stitch in place.
Join elastic in ring and attach to wrong side of waist with herringbone casing.

Hat: Join seam.
Make pompon and sew on top.

Mitts: Join seam.

Materials

Worked in a standard double knitting yarn (swatch as per tension given).

Sweater:
6 oz main colour, and 4 oz contrast.

Hat:
2 oz main colour, and 1 oz contrast.

Trousers:
9 oz main colour.

Mitts:
2 oz main colour.

Pair each of No 9 (3¾mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Waist length of elastic.

Tension

26sts to 4 inches over fair-isle, 24sts over stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

Sweater:
To fit 24 inch chest; length 16½ inches; sleeve: 10 inches.

Trousers:
Width around widest part 26 inches;
leg length 16½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

MC = main colour
C = contrast

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2023

Sparkling Party Frills for Fun

PartyFrills.jpg

A fun top intended for a metallic yarn, and perfect for the party season. I find metallics a bit scratchy, but there are now quite a lot of sparkly fingering weight yarns for you to choose from. [Always check your tension... I know you do...]

Beautifully shaped sleeveless silver jumper with frill gathered on to deep round neckline.

Instructions

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike:

With No 13 (2¼mm) needles cast on 112 / 120 / 128 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to end, finishing last repeat k3.
5th row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to end, ending last repeat k2.
7th row: as 3rd row.
9th row: knit
11th row: k7, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to last stitch, k1.
13th row: k5, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to last 3 stitches, k3.
15th row: as 11th row.
16th row: purl.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern and increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 128 / 136 / 144 stitches.
Then continue straight until work measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Armhole Shaping: Cast off 4 / 5 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Armhole Shaping:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 40, turn.
Continue on these stitches only, casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows; at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 7 rows.
Knit the last 2 stitches together and fasten off.

With right side facing, cast off the centre 28/ 32 / 36 stitches.
Complete to match the first side.

Frill (two pieces alike)

With No 12 needles and contrast edge colour, cast 168/ 184 / 200 stitches.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Break off contrast edge colour, join on main colour, and repeat the
16 pattern rows of the main part twice, then repeat 1st to 8th rows once more.
Next row: k 0 / 1 / 2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from * to end.
Change to No 13 needles. Beginning with a purl row, work 4 rows stocking stitch, then knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch for the casing.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press lightly.
Join side seams.

Armhole Edgings: With right side facing, using No 13 needles, pick up and k32 / 36 / 40 stitches around the armhole edge.
Knit 1 row. Cast off

Join side edges of frill. Fold cast-on edge to wrong side at hemline and sew down, leaving an opening to insert elastic.
Stitch centre of each "side" of the frill to the entire neck shaping of back and front, leaving remainder free at each side to complete armholes.
Thread elastic through casing; adjust to fit and join ends. Close opening.

Materials

Fingering 3 ply weight metallic yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 25g balls in main colour, and 1 ball for the edging detail.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm), and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to four inches

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 / 34 / 36 inches;
length: 18 / 18½ / 19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch [also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


A Word on the Wool.

The original yarn was Twilleys Goldfingering - available in 25g balls with a yardage of 100m (109yds), 80% Viscose 20% Metallised Polyester.
Although the Twilleys company wound up in 2007, Goldfingering is currently still fairly widely available - and in some rather inspiring colours. At time of writing, for example, the colour 05 silver is on special offer here, (the picture shows the colour "pewter" with edging in "ebony").

October 2023

Diamonds to Suit

DiamondSuit.jpg

Striking (or startling) sixties "costume" of a jacket with a matching dress or skirt. The colours are very much of the time, so it might be slightly more appealing to current taste if executed in, say, black or navy with a neutral white or cream (but if you like it, I expect you'd already thought of that!).

Instructions for Jacket and Skirt Suit

Jacket Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and B, cast on 80 / 84 / 88 / 92 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 10 / 12 / 4 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, * knit 4, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 9 / 11 / 3 / 5 stitches, knit 9 / 11 / 3 / 5.
[93 / 97 / 105 / 109 stitches]

With right side facing, change to No 7 (4½mm) needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: using D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: using D, * p2, with wool at front, slip 1 purlwise, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
3rd row
: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: using B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1. 6th row: using B, * slip 1, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until back measures approximately 14 inches, ending with 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until 69 / 73 / 79 / 83 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 6 / 2 / 5, p2tog, * p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last 4 / 5 / 3 / 4 stitches, purl 4 / 5 / 3 / 4.
[58 / 62 / 66 / 70 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until back measures 21 / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining 24 / 26 / 28 / 30 stitches.

Jacket Left Front

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 3 / 3 / 5 / 3, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 4 / 3 / 2 / 2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 4 / 4 / 6 / 4 stitches, knit 4 / 4 / 6 / 4.
[45 / 49 / 53 / 57 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and diamond pattern, starting with 1st pattern row, and work straight until front matches back at side edge, ending with 8th pattern row.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next and every alternate row until 33 / 37 / 40 / 44 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 4 / 3 / 1, p2tog, * purl 3 / 2 / 2 / 2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 3 / 3 / 3 / 1 stitches, purl 3 / 3 / 3 / 1.
[27 / 29 / 31 / 33 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until front measures 19½ / 20 / 20 / 20½ inches down centre.
With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on every row until 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

Jacket Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 40 / 42 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 11 rows garter stitch.
With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th/7th/7th/5th and every following 8th row, until there are 56 / 60 / 60 / 64 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 22 / 24 / 20 / 22 stitches remain. Purl back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 / 18 / 18 / 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 60 / 62 / 64 / 66 stitches and work in garter stitch, shaping collar by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 70 / 72 / 74 / 76 stitches
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 7 / 8 / 8 / 8, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 / 4 / 5 / 6 stitches; knit 6 / 4 / 5 / 6.
[78 / 80 / 82 / 84 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, knit 8 / 9 / 9 / 9, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches; knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[86 / 88 / 90 / 92 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 9 / 10 / 10 / 10, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[ 94 / 96 / 98 / 100 sts]

Work 7 rows straight,
Next row
: * knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 10 / 11 / 11 / 11, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 8 / 6 / 7 / 8 stitches, knit 8 / 6 / 7 / 8.
[102 / 104 / 106 / 108 sts]

Work 7 rows straight. Cast off.

Front Bands

Right: With No 10 needles and B, pick up and knit 107 / 109 / 109 / 111 stitches up right front to start of neck shaping.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Make 7 buttonholes in next 2 rows as follows:—
Next row: knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5, (cast off 3, knit 13) 6 times, cast off 3, knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5.
Next row: knit, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Left: Work to correspond with right front band, omitting buttonholes.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Pin cast-on and increasing edge of collar all round neck, starting and ending in centre of front bands.
Sew neatly in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press stud under collar.

Skirt

First panel:
With No 10 needles and B, cast on 55 / 59 / 63 / 67 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch, (every row, knit).
Next row: knit, increasing 10 stitches evenly across.
[65 / 69 / 73 / 77 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: in D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
2nd row: in D, * p2, slip 1 purlwise, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
3rd row
: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: in B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
6th row: * slip 1, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work a further 4 / 8 / 10 / 16 rows straight in pattern.
Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 16th / 14th / 14th / 12th row until 51 / 53 / 57 / 59 stitches remain. **

Work 3 / 3 / 1 / 1 rows straight, then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until 31 / 33 / 35 / 37 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 20 / 20½ / 21 / 21½ inches down centre, ending with 8th pattern row.
Break D.

Change to No 10 needles, and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib in B.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Make 3 more panels the same, one for each side, and one more for back or front.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join seams.
Press seams.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join into a ring; sew inside top of skirt using herringbone stitch over elastic to form a casing.

Materials

Jacket:
15 / 16 / 17 / 18 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
4 / 4 / 5 / 5 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Skirt:
8 / 9 / 9 / 10 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
6 / 4 / 6 / 6 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.
½ inch wide elastic to fit waist.
1 press stud.

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

18sts and 25 rows to 4 inches in tweed yarn on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Jacket:
To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches;
sleeve seam: 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16

Skirt:
To fit hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length: 21/ 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches;

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed DK (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a finer yarn, and much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly, and the tension here aligns Bracken more towards being an Aran yarn rather than a DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Instructions for Dress

Skirt sections

Work panel as given for skirt above from ** to **.
[51 / 53 / 57 / 59 sts]

Work 9 / 9 / 7 / 13 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 10th row.
[47 / 49 / 53 / 55 sts]

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 16½ / 17 / 17½ / 18 inches down centre, ending with 4th pattern row, and increasing 1 stitch in the centre of this row for the 2nd and 4th sizes only.
[47 / 50 / 53 / 56 sts]

Break off B yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make another 3 panel sections the same, and number each panel 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Bodice back:

To make the bodice, arrange the stitches from the skirt panels as follows:—
Slip the first 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 and the last 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 on stitch holders.
With No 8 (4mm) needles, and right side facing, using D yarn knit the remaining 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 1, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 2, then knit remaining 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 3.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

*** Continue working back and forth in stocking stitch on these 94 / 100 / 106 / 112 stitches for the back, starting with a purl row and work 3 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 25 / 27 / 29 // 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, k2tog, k1 , k2togtbl, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29.
[78 / 84 / 90 / 96 sts]
Work 15 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitches and knitting into back of it, k1, increase 1 as before, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 34 / 36 / 38 / 40, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work straight until bodice measures 12½ / 12½ / 12 / 12 inches from start.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain. ***

Work a few rows straight until bodice measures 15½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.
Here divide for back opening: -
Next row: knit 33 / 35 / 37 / 39.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue straight on these 33 / 35 / 37 / 39 stitches for first side until bodice measures 19½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Purl back.
Leave the remaining 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side of back.

Bodice front:

With No 8 needles and right side facing, using D yarn, work as follows:—
knit 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 from the stitch holder, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 4, then knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 from the stitch holder.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work as for Bodice back from *** to ***.
66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain.
Continue straight on these stitches until bodice front measures 17½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:-
Next row
: knit 26 / 27 / 28 / 29.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue on these 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
[18 / 19 / 20 / 21 sts]
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, slip centre 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing, and using the set of No 10 needles, or circular needle, work in D yarn as follows:—
Knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from left side of back, increasing 2 stitches evenly; pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of front, knit 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches from centre front increasing 4 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 16 stitches up right side of front, knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from right side of back increasing 2 stitches evenly across.
[84 / 88 / 92 / 96 sts]

Arranging the stitches evenly on 3 needles, or using circular needle, work backwards and forwards in garter stitch (every row knitted) for 3 rows.
Next row: knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8, k2tog, * knit 10 / 10 / 11 / 11, k2tog; repeat from to last 5 / 7 / 6 / 8 stitches, knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8.
[77 / 81 / 85 / 89 sts]

Work a further 3 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Armbands: With right side facing, and using No 10 needles, work in D yarn as follows:—
Pick up and knit 76 / 76 / 84 / 84 stitches round each armhole.
Work 6 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Join side seams and armbands with a flat seam.
Insert zip into back opening allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams.

Materials

12 / 13 / 14 / 15 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")
6 / 7 / 7 / 8 x 1oz balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles or a circular needle.

A 5 inch zip fastener for back of dress.
[Editor's note: probably better to check the measurement once the bodice is completed.]

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 36 / 36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2023

Out in the Open Air

OutInTheOpenHer.jpg

Still beside the sea, as the weather turns cooler. An altogether pleasing design for jackets with broken cable pattern - for him: a zip closure with angled pockets, and for her: a smooth line with buttons.

Instructions for woman's jacket

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 122 / 128 / 136 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on the middle size only. [122 / 129 / 136 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change to No 6 needles and repeat from 1st to 34th rows inclusive once, then 1st to 24th rows inclusive once.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. ***

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armholes by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work a further 6 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 6th rows.

Repeat the last 6 rows until 32 / 37 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

For the 2nd size: work 4 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and 3rd rows.

For the 3rd size: work 8 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and then alternate rows.

For all sizes: cast off the remaining 32 / 33 / 34 stitches, firmly.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 / 80 stitches, and work exactly as for back to ***.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, work in rib to end.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
** Work a further 6 rows decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 6th rows.
Repeat the last 6 rows until 46 / 51 / 57 stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

SHAPE NECK:
For the 1st size continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off.

For the 2nd and 3rd sizes: continue decreasing as before but at each end of the needle until 31 / 21 stitches remain.
Now continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 10 / 14 stitches remain.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off. **

Right Front

Work exactly as for left front to the start of the armhole shaping, then work one more row in rib to end with the wrong side facing.

Now shape the armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
Work as for the left front from ** to **.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 40 / 40 / 42 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 5 / 5 / 10 stitches evenly across on the last row. [45 / 45 / 52 sts]

Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 2 / 2 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 89 / 91 / 98 stitches. Then continue straight until the 28th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape armhole exactly as for back until 43 / 43 / 48 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 9 / 5 / 6 stitches remain. Cast off.

Front Borders

Left: With No 7 needles, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows until border fits up edge of left front to the start of the neck shaping when slightly stretched.
Cast off evenly in rib. Sew in position.

Right: Work a similar strip for the right front, with the addition of 8 buttonholes; the first to come in the 5th and 6th rows up from the lower edge, and the 8th just below the start of the neck shaping, and the remaining 6 spaced evenly in between.
First mark the position of the buttons with pins on the left border to ensure even spacing and work the buttonholes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 4, cat off 3, rib 4; rib back, casting on 3 over those cast off.

When border is finished, cast off evenly in rib, and sew in position.

Collar

With No 7 needles, cast on 139 / 141 / 145 stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib as given for left front border, until collar measures 4 inches. Cast off 24 / 25 / 27 stitches at he beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join raglan, side and sleeve seams, matching patterns carefully.
Sew collar in position, placing ends to centre of front borders.
Press seams as above.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
14 / 14 / 15 x 2oz balls in snow white.

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

8 buttons.

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
35-36 / 37-38 / 39-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 / 25½ / 26 inches;
sleeve seam: 17 inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 



Out in the Open Air

OutInTheOpenHim.jpg

"The sporty out-door look is perfectly typified in this popular, but first-class looking, zipped jacket. Companion to the woman's jacket, in the same attractive crunchy broken rib pattern. Lovely waterside colour of deep, shimmering blue, lightweight, but windproof by the sea, in the special triple-knit texture."

Instructions for man's zipped jacket

Note: instructions are given for 2 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 136 / 142 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across on the last row. [143 / 150 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change back to No 6 needles and continue in pattern until 3 complete patterns have been completed from the start.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 103 / 98 stitches remain. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 41 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: rib 21 / 28 and slip these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder, cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape as follows:
Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [27 / 27 sts]
Break yarn and leave these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the last 21 / 28 stitches; cast on 3, and rib to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Continue in pattern, casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 46 / 53 stitches, taking the cast on stitches into the pattern as they are made, and ending at the side edge.

Now continue in pattern over all stitches, until front matches back at side edge, ending with wrong side facing.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape raglan armhole:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 / 22 rows. [59 / 54 sts]
Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge at the beginning of every alternate row until 36 / 37 stitches remain, thus ending with right side facing.

Shape neck:

Next row: cast off 12 / 13, pattern to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. P2. Cast off.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: pattern 52 / 52 and slip the remaining 21 / 28 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 27 stitches remain, ending at the front edge.

Break yarn and leave these 27 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to last 21 / 28 stitches.
Next row: cast on 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [46 / 53 sts]. Break wool.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn at front edge, and continue in pattern over all stitches, and finish to correspond with right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 48 / 52 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 11 / 14 stitches evenly across on the last row. [59 / 66 sts]

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 6 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 109 / 110 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Then continue straight until the 34th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 18 rows. [65 / 66 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5 / 6 stitches remain, ending with right side facing. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Collar

Join raglan seams, matching patterns.
With No 7 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 28 stitches round right side of neck, knit the 5 / 6 sleeve stitches, knit 41 /42 from
back increasing 8/5 stitches evenly across as you go, knit 5/6 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 28 stitches round left side of neck.
[115 / 115 sts.]

Next row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more

Next row (increases): rib 4, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it; rib to last 4 stitches, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it, rib 4.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Repeat the last 4 rows until the collar is 5 inches deep at the centre back, taking the increased stitches into the rib pattern.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Linings an Borders

Linings: With No 6 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 32 stitches along top slope of each pocket and work 4 inches in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off.
Borders: With No 7 needles, pick up and knit 34 stitches along lower slope of each pocket and work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib,
Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join side and sleeve seams matching patterns.
Catch down pocket linings and borders to main work.
Work a row of double crochet (US = single crochet) along the edge of each front.
Insert zip fastener into front opening, allowing crochet edging to
meet over zip to conceal it.
Press all seams as before.

Materials

Aran yarn:
18 / 19 x 2oz balls in in gendarme blue

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

A zip fastener (double-ended - suitable for a jacket).
[Editor's note: no length is suggested for the zip, and probably better to measure, or monitor the length as you make the jacket.]

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
39-40 / 41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 27½ / 27½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18½ / 18½ inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2023

Beach Tunic or Poncho

BeachTunic.jpg

Beach cover-up, which can be made as a sleeveless tunic top (above), or a poncho/tabard (below) -- great for a sandy beach, after a refreshing dip on an English summer's day!

"Poncho wrap to slip on after a bathe, ties loosely at the sides -- warm but light weight, it's the perfect cover-up for after-swim. Tunic uses the same vivid design, to give you a play sweater for the beach to wear over tiny shorts."

Instructions for Tunic

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 121 / 121 / 127 stitches, and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Break off W.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [130 / 130 / 136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [121 / 121 / 127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 9 needles and work 42 / 46 / 50 rows straight in stocking stitch in main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 8 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 9 needles and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, in W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 9 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [111 / 111 / 117 sts].

When the neck shapings are complete, work 34 / 38 / 42 rows straight in stocking stitch using W, starting with a knit row.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 8 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

Ribbed Border

Front: with right side facing, using W wool and No 9 needles, pick up and knit 114 / 120 / 126 stitches evenly along the lower edge.
Work 10 / 14 / 10 rows in k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.
Work the back ribbed border in the same way.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth, avoiding the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.

Turn with 1 chain, and work a further 3 rows dc, turning with 1 chain
at the end of every row.
Fasten off.

Join the left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armholes: Measure 6¼ / / inches from the top of the shoulder down the side edge on the back and front, and mark with pins.
With right side facing, W wool and crochet hook, work a row of dc between the pins. Work a further 3 rows dc, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row. Fasten off.
Work the other armhole in the same way.

Join side and border seams; press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
2 / 2 / 2 oz in each of green (G) and red (R);
1 / 2 / 2 oz in blue (B);
1 / 1 / 1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

23sts and 31 rows to four inches on 3¾mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
33-34 / 35-36 / 37-38 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: green
R: red
B: blue
Y: yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


TunicPonchoChart.jpg


BeachPoncho.jpg

Instructions for Poncho

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 127 stitches, and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 7 needles and work 26 rows straight in stocking stitch using main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 6 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 7 needles and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, using W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 7 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [117 sts].
Break off B.

When the neck shapings are complete, work 18 rows straight in stocking stitch using W.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 6 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth.

Neck edging front: with right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.
Turn with 1 chain.
Work a 2nd row of dc.
Fasten off.
Neck edging back: work as for front.

In the same way, neaten the side edgings by working a row of dc down the right side of the front, along the lower edge, and up the other side; turn with one chain, and work a 2nd row.
Fasten off.

Work a crochet edging on the back in the same way.

Join shoulder seams.
Press seams and edgings.

Make ties: with 3 strands of W, or contrast yarn, make 4 lengths of crochet chain, about 20 inches long. Sew one length to each side of front and back, about 3½ inches in from the side and 10 inches up from the lower edge.
Tie as shown in the photo.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
10 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
3 oz in green (G);
2 oz in tangerine (R);
2 oz in blue (B);
1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 6 (5mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

20sts and 25 rows to four inches on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width across front measured flat:
22 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: lime green
R: tangerine
B: royal blue
Y: sun yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a blend of wool and acrylic, making it so-called "light weight", though it's an Aran or worsted weight yarn.
A cotton blend might be pleasanter for the beach.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

July 2023

Kimono Cardigan

KimonoCardigan.jpg

A very feminine coatlet to crochet in cotton for the summer. Its boxy shape gives it a little more edge for styling successfully with jeans and a tee, as well as more conventionally with a breezy summer frock.
The design is constructed from motifs made using in a fairly fine cotton on a 1.5 mm hook, so it might be more of an heirloom project - the month of June always brings weddings to mind.

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets
The top is made up by joining a number of crocheted square motifs.

Special instructions: make cluster

This is a 3 dtr cluster made by working 3 dtr together as follows:

* yoh twice, insert hook into stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * twice more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

When working a cluster at the beginning of the round, work as follows:

3ch (counts as first dtr), * yoh twice, insert hook into same stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * once more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

Basic Motif

Make 6 ch, close circle with 1 slip stitch.
Work in rounds.
1st round: work 12 dc into the centre of the circle, joining to first dc with a slip stitch.
2nd round: make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch; (make cluster, 3ch) 11 more times. Join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.
3rd round: slip stitch into the next chain space, make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch, make cluster into the same ch space, * (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch; (make cluster, 3 ch, make cluster) all in next chain space; repeat from * twice more.
End with (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch, and join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.

Make 298 (332) identical motifs. These are then joined in strips of various lengths in order the build up the cardigan shape.

Joining motifs

Make sure the motifs are all the same side up when you start to join them. Work as follows: join to the corner of the second completed motif, then make 2 ch, then 1dc into the loop on the corner of previous motif. Continue thus, with 2 ch, 1 dc into each of the following loops, alternating between each of the two motifs.

Below is an example of the motifs with the joining stitches shown in a different colour.

Lower edge of cardigan (back and fronts)

Make 7 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 7 motifs which is the back and fronts worked together up to the armholes).

Back (top and sleeves)

Make 5 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 5 motifs which is the back and sleeves worked together from the armholes up to the shoulders).

Right front (top and sleeves)

Make 3 strips of 9 (10) motifs and then join them.
Make 2 strips of 7 (8) motifs and then join them to the previous piece,
staggering them 2 motifs to the left for the front neck.

Left front (top and sleeves)

Work in the same way,the opposite way round.

Putting it all together

The assembly diagram below shows the smaller size, which requires you to join the bottom of the cardigan to the top sections centred across an uneven number of squares (9) - so involves joining a "half square". The larger size has an even number (10).
All the motifs are made in the same colour - the colour coding below is just to help understand how the sections are joined together.

Join the lower section to the top, joining the centre 9 (10) motifs for the back - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (b) -
and join the 4½ (5) motifs at each end for the fronts - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (c) for the right front and (b) and (d) for the left front.

Join the top of garment across the shoulders and tops of sleeves. (There are 7 (8) motifs each side.)

Iron lightly on wrong side of work.

Stitch the sleeve seams - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (g) for the right sleeve and (b) and (h) for the left sleeve.

Work 5 rows of dc all round the sweater, working a little tighter round
the neckline.
Work 5 rows of dc around each sleeve edge.

Sew in all ends. (I would advise sewing in ends on each motif as you go since this can be a rather daunting task if they are all left to the end).


A Word on the Wool

This is made using cotton 8, which is fine but not that fine.
For comparison, the sort of cotton you would use to make doilies would have been typically (Coats) cotton 20 - and the bigger the number the finer the thread.

You can find cotton 8 on line as rather expensive fine crochet cotton by the likes of DMC, or in more budget versions from bulk distributors such as Hobbii.

The key criteria to look for (even if it's called cotton No 8) is a knitting gauge - often printed on a ball band - of 39 sts x 59 rows to 10 cm square on 2mm needles; and a yardage of something like 285 meters to 50g.
After that you should experiment making a motif or two using a 1½mm hook, and then varying the hook size if necessary to get the right size.

If you want to make this in a fine wool then laceweights would probably suit (again be sure to try a motif). I implied above that the yardage could be used as an indication of suitable thickness when substituting, but not if you are substituting with wool because it has a different density to cotton. You can use the yardage as a guide to how much yarn to purchase to make this garment, but not for any indication of suitable thickness.

Materials

7 (8) x 50g balls cotton No 8 in colour "Heliotrope".

1.5 mm crochet hook

Tension

Each motif measures 5cm, (2 inches)

Size matters

10-12 / 14-16
[32 - 34 / 36 - 38 inch chest]

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
yoh: yarn over hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2023

Cap-sleeve summer top

CapSleeveSummerTop.jpg

An understated casual top for summer from the 1950s. "Suits all sizes" - but only up to a 38 inch chest!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back

**
With No 13 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 114 (122 : 130) stitches and work 4 inches in k1/p1 rib, working into the backs of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted effect.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 15th and every following 6th row until there are 132 (140 : 148) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 11½ (12 : 12) inches, ending with a purl row.
**

Here shape the underarm by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 8 knit rows: [148 (156 : 164) sts]
Work straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ ( : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off he remaining 40 (40 : 44) stitches fairly loosely.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** : [132 (140 : 148) sts]
Continue straight until front measures 11½ inches from purl ridge.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k55 (59 : 63), turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for the first shoulder, increasing at the underarm at the beginning of the next 7 knit rows: [64 (68 : 72) sts].
Purl back.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping neck edge by knitting 2 stitches together at the end of the next and every following 6th row 10 (10 : 12) times in all. Work a few rows straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ ( : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows at the armhole edge

With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches, slip the centre 20 (20 : 20) stitches on a spare needle, knit to the last stitch, increase in the last stitch.
Work the right side to correspond with the left.

Collar

For all sizes: Join shoulder seams.

Right half: With No 11 needles k20 from spare needle at the front, increasing 1 stitch in the centre to 21 stitches, and work in moss stitch as follows:

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Next row: k2, (purl into the front then knit into the back of the next stitch), moss stitch to end.
Continue in moss stitch, increasing 1 stitch inside the 2 border stitches on the next 5 rows: [37 sts]
Continue in moss stitch,keeping garter stitch border as before, until piece fits up right side of neck to shoulder, then round to centre back of neck.
Cast off in moss.

Left half: With No 11 needles, cast on 21 stitches.

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more, then finish to correspond with right half.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing. With right side facing and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 124 (124 : 128) stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Press facing.
Join side and underarm seams.
Turn facing to wrong side and slip-hem all round.
Join collar neatly at back of neck with a flat seam.
Sew cast-on stitches for left side of collar at back of right border at start of neck; pin centre of collar to centre back of neck, then sew neatly in position all round.
Press seams.


A Word on the Wool

3 ply weight might be a bit hard to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet, I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Susan Crawford offers a lovely range of bright colours in Fenella which is designed for use with 3 ply vintage patterns.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Materials

6 (6 : 7) ozs 3 ply crepe in "Flamingo"

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36 : 37-38) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 20 (20½ : 21) inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2023

Coronation Twinset

CoronationTwinset.jpg

Just to mark the occasion, for a child (from 3-4 years apparently): a cute little twin set with royal processional motifs.
Even if you don't make this twinset for the event, it has some cute military motifs, which cleverly catch the essence of the servicemen depicted despite the simplicity of the design.

This pattern was created to mark the Queen's coronation in 1953 and depicts the historic Gold State Coach; the latter will also be used by King Charles - but only for the somewhat shorter procession back to the Palace after his Coronation on May 6th. For the outward journey, the more modern and altogether more comfortable Diamond Jubilee Coach will be used.

Instructions:

Motifs may be worked in Fair Isle or embroidered when garment is completed.
When working Fair Isle use separate balls of the contrasting colours for each motif. Always twist the wools round each other when changing colour to avoid leaving a hole.
Knitters may find it easier to ensure a tight edge by knitting the first and last stitches on every purl row.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a full version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

THE JUMPER

Jumper Front

Using No 13 needles and gold (L) wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and white (W) wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 2 rows in white (W).
In the next row commence motif working the 43 rows from chart 1.

Work 1 row in white (W).
Join in gold (L).
**
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
**
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
In the next row commence the motif working the first 14 rows from chart 2.

Shape the Armholes

Continuing to work from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work straight until the 39 rows of chart 2 are completed.
Work 4 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L.
*** Continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: * 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
***
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck
Next row: Knit 32, cast off 17, knit to end.

Now work on and finish each side separately:
Work 1 row.
Keeping arm edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then every alternate row until there are 27 stitches left, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Still decreasing 1 stitch on every alternate row at the neck edge, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are eliminated.

Rejoin the wool to the other side at the neck edge and complete to match the 1st side.

Jumper Back

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Work 46 rows.
Join in L.
Now work as Front from ** to **.
Cut L.
Work 17 rows in W.
Continue in W.

Shape the Armholes:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work 16 rows in W.
Join in L.
Now work as for Front from *** to ***.
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 12 rows.

Shape the Shoulders:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of every row until there are 33 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool, cast on 60 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Next row (increase row): Rib 4, * increase once in the next stitch, rib 3, repeat from * to end. [74 sts].
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.

Work until sleeve measures 2½ inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 54 stitches left, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 34 stitches left, and then 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 22 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Neck Band

Join the right shoulder seam.
Using No 13 needles, with right side of work facing you, and using L wool, knit up 80 stitches round the neck.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up the jumper

Press or block each piece separately with a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the collar and cuff of the Queens' robe in white, and the horses' reins in black.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side and sleeve seams.
Sew left shoulder seam for 1¼ inches from arm edge.
Set in sleeves.
With L wool work 2 rows of double crochet, (US: single crochet), along shoulder opening making, 3 small button loops on the front edge.
Sew on buttons to match.
Press seams.


THE CARDIGAN

Instructions have been given for a boys' cardigan.
If a girls' cardigan is required, the work buttonholes in the right front instead of the left front.

Cardigan Back

Work as for back of jumper.

Cardigan Right Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib to the last 14 stitches, put these 14 stitches on a safety pin for the front band.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) and W. wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 4 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the 36 rows from chart No. 3.

Work 6 rows in W.
Join in L.
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the first 15 rows from chart No 4.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 35 rows of the motif are complete.
Work 8 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L and continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
2nd row: 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L.
4th row: 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L.
6th row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, .3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
8th row: 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
Cut L.
Continue in W, and work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches, work to end.
Work 1 row.
Now keeping armhole edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then on every alternate row until there are 27 stitches remaining, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Continue to decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge, and at the same time, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and
alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are cast off.

Cardigan Left Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ of an inch.
In the next 2 rows make buttonholes as follows:
Next row: Rib 6, cast off 2, rib to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off on the preceding row.

Continue in rib, making one more buttonhole 1½ inches from the 1st until work measures 3 inches from cast on edge ending at centre-front edge.
Next row: Rib 14 stitches and place on safety pin for the front band, rib to end.
Change to No 12 needles and work in stocking stitch using W wool.

Commence 1st panel.
Work 4 rows in W.
In the next row commence motif working the 36 rows from chart 5.
Work 6 rows in W.

Join in L, and continue as follows :
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W,
1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W; repeat from * once more.

7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L
Commence 2nd panel.
Work 3 rows in W
In the next row start working the motif, working the first 14 rows from chart 6.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from the chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 36 rows of the motif are complete.

Work 7 rows in W ending with a knit row.
Join in L
Continue as follows:
1st row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W.
3rd row: 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
5th row: 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W.
9th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
Cut L.

Continue in W
Work 1 row.
Shape neck and complete to match the Right Front.

Cardigan Borders

Left front border:
Rejoin L wool to the stitches left on safety pin and using No 13 needles work in rib making 6 more buttonholes at 1½ inch intervals. Work a further ½ inch after the last buttonhole has been worked.
Cast off.
Work the right front border the same way omitting buttonholes.

[Editor's note: In case of tension variations, you may wish to make the plain border first - which will be the right border for a boy and the left border for a girl - so you can see how many rows you need to fit nicely up the front; you can then work out how best to place the buttonholes evenly up the other side.]

The Collar

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 137 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.
5th row: k1, p1, k2tog, rib to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, p1, k1.
Repeat, this decrease on every 4th row until there are
123 stitches left.
Work 3 rows.
Cast off in rib.

Cardigan Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 50 stitches.
Work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 74 stitches.
Work without further shaping until sleeve measures 10 inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape top as for jumper sleeve instructions.

Making up the cardigan

Press each piece separately with a warm iron and damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the horses reins in black, and the sailors collar and hat band in white as shown on the diagram.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side, shoulder and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves. Sew borders to fronts.
Sew cast off edge of collar round neck edge starting and finishing at centre front edges.
Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:

Jumper:
2oz White (W)
1oz Linga Gold (L)
Oddments in Scarlet, Black, Pink, and Light Grey.

Cardigan:
3oz white
2oz gold
Oddments in scarlet, black, pink, royal blue, yellow, and tan.
8 buttons.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.
1 "medium" crochet hook.

Tension

36sts and 48 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

Instructions for 3-4 years.
Chest 23 inches; length 13 inches; sleeve seam: 2¾ inches (jumper) or 10 inches (cardigan).

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2023

Surf Seekers - overblouse

SurfSeekers1.jpg

I love this brilliantly coloured overblouse - a taste of the Aegean. It can be paired with the sparkling white classic sweater (also in the April entry and shown under the overblouse in the photo), making for a two-piece with just the right look of colour dash for a sixties Continental beach holiday.

Instructions

Instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Carry wool loosely behind slip stitches in pattern to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 120 / 128 / 132 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1 / p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [121 / 129 / 133 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl). Leave yarn M hanging and join in turquoise yarn (T).

1st row (right side facing): in T, k1, * slip 3 purlwise, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: in T, p2, * sl1 purlwise, p3; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p2.
3rd row: knit in T.
4th row: purl in T.
Leave T wool hanging; join in white yarn (W).
5th-8th rows: as 1st to 4th rows in W.
Leave W wool hanging.
9th-12th rows: as 1st to 4th rows in teal blue colour (M).

These 12 rows form pattern. **

Carrying wools loosely up the side of the work, continue in pattern and work straight until back measures 16 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 91 / 95 / 99 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 24 / 24½ / 25 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 7 / 7 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, then 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 37 / 39 / 41 stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Continue in straight in pattern until front measures 9 inches at centre.

Here divide for front opening:

Next row: right side facing, pattern 54 / 58 / 60, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work straight until front measures the same as the back at the side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole and neck edge as follows:

Next row: cast off 6 / 7 / 8, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: work in pattern.

Now continue to shape armhole edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 8 / 9 / 8 alternate rows, and at the same time shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the 5th row, then at this edge on every following 6th row.

When the armhole shapings are done, keep this edge straight but continue to decrease at the neck edge on every 6th row as before until 27 / 28 / 29 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 7 / 7 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder. Cast off the centre 13 stitches, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 52 / 56 / 60 stitches, and work 2 inches twisted k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[53 / 57 / 61 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl). Leave yarn M hanging, join in turquoise yarn (T), and work 12 rows in pattern as for back.
Continue in pattern and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 87 / 91 / 95 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18 inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 37 / 37 / 37 stitches remain.
Next row (should be a wrong side row): in pattern.

Now (right side facing) cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and 4 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 19 stitches.

Front Border

Join shoulder seams.
Using No 10 needles and M wool, cast on 20 stitches and work 1 inch in twisted k1/p1 rib.

Make a buttonhole in next 2 rows thus:
Next row: rib 7, cast off 6, rib to end.
Next row: work back in rib, casting on 6 over those cast off.
Continue in rib, working a further 2 buttonholes as before at 3-inch intervals.
Work straight until border fits up right front, round back of neck and down left front when slightly stretched; sew in position as you go along.
Cast off in rib.

Collar

Begin by winding off a small ball each of M and T yarns.
Using No 10 needles and M yarn, cast on 196 stitches, and work 6 rows in twisted rib.
Next row: rib 10 M, join in main ball of T and knit to the last 10 stitches in T, join in 2nd ball of M, and rib 10 in M.
Editors note: You are using an intarsia technique here, where the colour changes are joined vertically, so make sure you wind the threads around each other when you start a new colour, to avoid holes.

Next row: rib 10 M, rib 176 in T, rib 10 M.
Repeat the last row 4 times more.
Next row: rib 10 M., rib 10 T, join in W and knit to the last 20 stitches in W; join in 2nd small ball of T, rib 10 T, rib 10 M.
Next row: rib 10 M, rib 10 T, rib 156 W, rib 10 T, rib 10 M.
Repeat the last row until work measures 6 inches.

In rib and using appropriate colours, cast off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.

Join side and sleeve seams ; insert sleeves.
Sew lower edges of front border neatly in position to main work, right edge over left.
Pin cast off edge of collar in position on wrong side of work on seam of ribbed border and main part, making sure ends are level on fronts.
Sew in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
11 / 11 / 12 x 1oz balls in main shade (M), teal blue;
7 / 8 / 8 oz in gay turquoise (T);
4 / 5 / 5 oz in snow white (W).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

3 large buttons.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 24½ / 25 / 25½ inches;
sleeve seam:
18 / 18 / 18 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
M: main teal blue
T: turquoise
W: white

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Surf Seekers - sweater

SurfSeekers2.jpg

Sparkling white classic sweater which can be teamed with the overblouse (also in the April entry, and pictured in the background here) - for "a two-piece with just the right look of colour dash for a Continental beach holiday". The short-sleeved sweater is long enough to wear over shorts, and the fairly high round turtle band just shows at the neck of the overblouse.

This could also be teamed up with the Sail Away Pullover from POM April 2017, (another favourite of mine).

Instructions

Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

**
With No 10 needles cast on 100 / 106 / 110 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1 / p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on 2nd and 3rd sizes. [10 / 107 / 111 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl), and work straight until back measures 15 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then k2tog at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 76 / 79 / 83 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 19 / 19½ / 20 inches at centre.

With right side facing, divide for back opening:

Next row: right side facing, pattern 38 / 39 / 41, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work straight until back measures 22½ / 23 / 23½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Purl 1 row and leave remaining 15 / 15 / 16 stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder. For 2nd and 3rd sizes only, cast off the centre stitch, then knit to end for all sizes. [38 / 39 / 41 sts]
Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Continue in straight in pattern until front measures 21 / 21½ / 22 inches at centre.

With right side facing divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 30 / 31 / 32, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Then with wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row; then decrease 1 stitch at this (neck) edge on the following 3 rows. [23 / 24 / 25 sts]

Work a few rows straight until front measures the same as the back at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then cast off the remaining 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, slip the centre 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder, rejoin the wool to the remaining 30 / 31 / 32 stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder, and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles, cast on 62 / 66 / 70 stitches, and work 1 inch in twisted k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 stitches evenly across the last row.
[64 / 68 / 72 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl), and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 70 / 74 / 78 stitches.

Work a few rows until until sleeve measures 3½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 / 34 / 34 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.

Now (right side facing) cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and 4 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 16 stitches.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband:
With right side facing, and No 10 needles, knit across 15 / 15 / 16 stitches from back neck, pick up and knit 20 stitches down left side of neck, knit 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from centre front, and pick up and knit 20 stitches up right side of neck. Then knit across the 15 / 15 / 16 stitches at the back neck. [86 / 87 / 91 sts].
Work 1½ inches in twisted k1/p1 rib stitch; cast off in rib.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew zip into position at the back.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
12 / 13 / 14 oz in snow white

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

6 inch zip.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 23 / 23½ / 24 inches;
sleeve seam: 3½ inches, all sizes

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2023

Green is the colour...

GreenIsTheColour2

Celebrate St Patrick's Day in style in this emerald sweater with unusual cable pattern.

Instructions.

Instructions are (unusually for this era) given for only one medium/small size.
This is originally a French pattern, and before you begin, I recommend you read through the instructions thoroughly, and refer to the photographs, in order to understand how the pattern progresses.

Vertical cable stitch:

Editors note: You begin working the diagonal pattern, and then gradually move to this vertical cable. So these instructions are incorporated into the diagonal pattern below.

Made over 4 stitches in stocking stitch:
On every 6th row, make a cable by slipping the first 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work, knitting the next 2 stitches, then knitting the 2 stitches from cable needle.

Diagonal pattern stitch:

1st row: Cast on 1 stitch, (edge stitch) then, * p6, k1, increase 1 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6.
Cast cast on 1 stitch (edge stitch)
2nd and every even numbered row: k1, (edge stitch); purl to the last stitch, k1, (edge stitch).
3rd row: k1, (edge stitch); * p5, slip the next 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work: knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k1 (edge stitch).
5th row: knit twice into the first stitch, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, knit twice into the last stitch.
7th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p4, k1, p3, k1.
9th row: k1, p3, * Cross the Cable by slipping 3 stitches on to the cable needle, place to the back of the work, k2, then k2, p1 from cable needle; p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k2, p3, k1.
11th row: k1, p2, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k3, p3, k1.
13th row: k1, p1, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k4, p3, k1.
15th row: k1, * Cross the Cable as in the 9th row, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p5, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
17th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k3, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k4, p3, k1.
19th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k2, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p7, k4, p3, k1.
21st row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k1, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross the Cable as in the 9th row *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p8, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
23rd row: k1, p5, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p9, k4, p3, k1.
25th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending after the last oblique cable with p4, k1, p5, k4, p3, k1. This marks the beginning of a new vertical cable at 5 stitches from the first vertical cable as on the 7th row. Continue thus, forming new vertical cables in the same way as the work proceeds, with the oblique cables petering out at the right side edge.

Front:

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 94 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib (beginning first row p2), for 4 inches .
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in pattern (109 stitches at the completion of the 5th row).
When the work measures 11½ inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Armholes,by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; and 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 6 rows.

Continue to work in pattern until the work measures 15½ inches from the top of the ribbing, then Shape the Neck by casting off the centre 21 stitches, and then finish each side separately.
At the neck edge on alternate rows, cast off 4 stitches once, 2 stitches once, and 1 stitch 3 times. Continue to work in pattern until the armhole measures 7½ inches then Shape the Shoulders:
at the armhole edge on alternate rows, cast off 6 stitches 4 times.

Back:

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 94 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib (beginning first row p2), for 4 inches .
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in pattern, omitting to to work the increase at each side edge on the 1st and 5th rows, so at the completion of the 5th row there are 105 stitches on the needle.
Begin the 1st row with k1 (edge stitch), p5, k1, increase 1 etc...
and end it with p5, k1 (edge stitch).
Begin the 3rd row with k1 (edge stitch), p4, then cross the stitches, and end with p5, k1 (edge stitch)
Begin the 5th row with with k1 (edge stitch), p3, and end it with p5, k1 (edge stitch).

Continue the pattern, working 2 stitches fewer at the beginning and end of rows.

When the work measures 11½ inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Armholes,by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; and 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

When the work measures 18 inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Neck, by casting off the centre 23 stitches, and then finish each side separately.
At the neck edge on alternate rows, cast off 4 stitches once, 2 stitches twice, and at the same time Shape the Shoulders:
at the armhole edge on alternate rows, by casting off 6 stitches 4 times.

Sleeves:

With No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 48 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib for 4½ inches.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in garter stitch (every row knitted), increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 16th row 6 times.

When the work measures 13 inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape Top, by casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th rows twice.
Then cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 28 rows, 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and finally cast off the remaining 14 stitches.

Neckband:

With the No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 110 stitches, and work in garter stitch for 3 rows. Cast off.

To Make Up:

Sew up the side and shoulder seams.
Sew the sleeve seams and set in the sleeves.
Join the neckband into a ring and sew it around the neck edge.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting: 8 x 50g (synthetic fibre = 1000 metres)

A pair each No 8 (4mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.
A cable needle.

Tension

23 sts x 48 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 34 inch bust.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

Cross5: slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle, place at back of work, k4, then purl the stitch from the cable needle.

increase: increase by knitting twice into the next stitch.

decrease: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

stocking stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side (aka stockinette).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2023

Highland Harmony

HighlandHarmony.jpg

A fairly timeless design for a man's Fair-Isle sweater in lovely muted shades of Shetland wool. As I love this kind of colourwork, and I love men's fashions, it's definitely a hit with me - a lovely gift for a (very) deserving man...

Instructions:

The pullover is given in one (medium man's) size and is worked using the Fair-Isle technique, with colours not in use stranded loosely across back of work.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 175 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles, and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart thus: reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 87 pattern stitch repeat twice across.

HighlandHarmonyChart-main2.jpg

HighlandHarmonyChart-key.jpg

Continue working rows from the chart until the 12th row of the 4th pattern repeat has been completed. **

Armhole shaping: cast off 13 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until the 18th row of the 6th pattern repeat has been completed.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for the back until **.

Armhole and neck Shaping:
Next row: cast off 13, pattern 74. Turn.
Purl back in pattern.
Continue on these 75 stitches only.
Next row: knit in pattern to last 4 stitches; k2tog, k2.
Next row: purl in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 61 stitches remain, then decrease in the same way at the neck edge on every 4th row until 52 stitches remain.
Work 7 rows.
Cast off.

Join wool to inner (neck) edge of the remaining stitches.
Cast off 1 stitch, and complete to match the first side, working "sl1, k1, psso" instead of k2tog for the neck shaping.

Sleeves

Begin at the top of the sleeve.

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 135 stitches. Knit one row.

Beginning with the 16th row of the chart (a purl row worked from left to right), work thus:
Work 1 stitch to the right of the dotted line, work the (next 6 stitches) 5 times, work the last stitch.

HighlandHarmonyChart-sleeve2.jpg

Continue in pattern as set, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 5th row until 87 stitches remain.
Continue straight until 4 complete patterns have been worked.
Work the first 3 rows again.

Continue with main shade only and work 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and work 3 inches in rib as for the back. Cast off ribwise.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left front neck, 1 stitch from centre front, 54 stitches up right front neck, and 50 stitches across back neck. [159 sts]

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row, then work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row.
Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join the left shoulder and neckband seams.
Set in sleeves, joining 1½ inches of the sides of the sleeves to the cast off groups at the armhole.
Join the side and sleeve seams.
Fold the neckband in half to the wrong side and catch stitch in place.

Materials

Shetland 2 ply jumper weight (fingering yarn):
7 x 1oz balls in main shade plus 1 oz each in 9 contrast colours: green, grey/brown (light and dark), pink, yellow (light and dark), moss green, mauve, white.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 32 rows to 4 inches over Fair Isle stitch.
[This is basically a 4 ply equivalent]

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 40-42 inches.
Length: 25½ inches.
Sleeve: 20½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original yarn "Real Shetland Knitting Wool 2 ply jumper weight" stated as available from a supplier in Edinburgh is likely to be the 2 ply jumper weight from Jamieson and Smith. It's a 4 ply equivalent specifically designed for Fair Isle knitting, and is available in 25g balls from a number of different suppliers in an extensive range of colours.
Editors note: Sadly you have to pay somewhat more than the 19p price per ball quoted for the original yarn in the 1970s!

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2022

Snow Baby

SnowBaby.jpg

Adorable winter coatigan and bonnet set for a child.

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets.

COAT

The body of the coat is made in one piece beginning at the bottom edge.

With larger size needles and white colour, cast on 186 (204) stitches, and, using the blue colour, work in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.
Now divide the piece to work the Back and Fronts separately from the armholes by placing 46 (50) stitches at each side on holders.

Coat Back

Continue on the centre 94 (104)stitches for the Back only.

Shape armholes by decreasing: for size 1: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row once, then the following 4th row once, then the following alternate row once, and finally the following 4th row once).
Place the remaining 86 (96) stitches on a holder.

Coat - Right Front:

With right side facing, pick up 46 (50) stitches for the on the right and shape the armhole.
Beginning at the armhole edge, for size 1: decrease 1 stitch on the next and every alternate row, 4 times, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch on the next row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following alternate row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once).
At the same time shape the neck edge beginning at 1st (5th) - knit - row, by leaving the last 22 (26) stitches unworked, turning and purling back, and then in the same way, leaving the last 5 stitches unworked on every alternate row 4 times.

Leave all 42 (46) stitches remaining on a holder.

Coat - Left Front:

Work the left front the same as the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (make 2):

With smaller size needles and blue colour, cast on 38 stitches and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to larger size needles, and work in stocking stitch, increasing 8 (10) stitches evenly spaced across the first row. [46 (48) sts]
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 8 times. [62 (64) sts]

Continue without shaping until work measures 6¾ () inches.
Shape top by decreasing for size 1: 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row, 1 stitch at each end of the following alternate row, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row).
Leave the remaining 54 (56) stitches on a stitch holder.

Yoke:

With larger size needles in blue colour, pick up the 278 (300) stitches from the holders: 42 (46) stitches from the right front, 54 (56) stitches from the right sleeve, 86 (96) stitches from the back, 54 (56) stitches from the left sleeve, and finally, 42 (46) stitches from the left front.

With right side facing, work 2 rows in stocking stitch decreasing 8 stitches at the armholes on the first row as follows:
Next row (decrease): k40 (44), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k82 (92), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k40 (44).
[270 (292) sts]
Next row: purl.

The next row decreases a number of stitches evenly across each section of the yoke - work the two sizes as follows:

SIZE 1 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 5 times, k1;
k1, (k3, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, k2tog, (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k3) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1) 5 times. [189 sts]

Next row: purl.

SIZE 2 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog) 15 times;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
k2tog, k2tog, (k1, k2tog) 29 times, k3tog;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
(k2tog, k1) 15 times.
[219 sts]

Next row: purl.

Now work the pattern sections in stocking stitch from the charts, with decreasing on plain rows in between as follows; note carefully that decrease rows are written separately for each of the two sizes:

Both sizes: work row 1-4 rows from chart 1 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k6, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 26 times, k1. [163 sts]
Next row 6: Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 22 times. [141 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k8, * k2tog, k6, repeat from * 26 times, k3. [193 sts]
Next row 6 : Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k1, * k2tog, k8, repeat from * 19 times, k2tog. [173 sts]

Both sizes: work 7 rows from chart 2 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k10, * k2tog, k3, repeat from * 25 times, k6. [116 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 27 times, k4. [146 sts]

Both sizes: work 2 rows from chart 3 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p2, * p2tog, p3, repeat from * 22 times, p2tog, p2. [93 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p10, * p2tog, p2, repeat from * 19 times, p7. [74 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p6, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 23 times, p2. [123 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p1, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 20 times, p2tog. [102 sts]

Both sizes: work 6 rows from chart 4 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 12 times, k2tog. [61 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k2, * k2tog, k2, repeat from * 25 times. [77 sts]

Both sizes: work 4 rows from chart 5 starting with a purl row.

Both sizes: purl 1 row in blue, decreasing one stitch at the centre of the work. [60 (76) sts]

Place the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Coat border:

Remove the strand of white at the bottom of the work, picking up the stitches as you go.
With the circular needle and blue colour, pick up and knit 436 (506) stitches around the edge of the coat, as follows:
60 (76) stitches around neck,
91 (109) stitches from each front,
186 (204) stitches from bottom edge.
Commence working in the round, increasing 2 stitches at the corners between each section.

Work 4 rounds of stocking stitch (every round knitted) and on the 2nd round on right front edge, make 3 buttonholes 2 stitches wide: cast off 2 stitches, then on the third round, cast on 2 stitches over the spaces.
Place the first buttonhole in line with the last row of Chart 1, of the yoke; space the others 8 stitches apart.

On the 5th round, work 1 round of eyelets:
5th round: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Work a further round, then make 3 buttonholes at same places as first 3 buttonholes. Work a further 2 rounds then cast off all stitches.

Finishing the coat:

Sew armhole and sleeve seams.
Fold border in half all around the coat and sew in place.
Sew around buttonholes.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:

Coat: 3 (4) x 50g balls in blue colour plus 1 ball in white.

Bonnet: 1 ball in each colour.

One pair each of 3mm and 3½mm (or 3¾mm) needles.

3½mm (or 3¾mm) circular needle.

Tension

23sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

1 / 2 years
[25 / 26 inch chest]

Abbreviations:

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together
p2tog: decrease by purling 2 stitches together
yo: yarn over needle to make an extra stitch (creates a decorative hole)

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting with 50/50 wool/acrylic mix and approximately 125m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


BONNET

With larger size needles and blue colour, cast on 89 stitches.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.

On the 5th row, work eyelets:
5th row: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches; k2. [90 sts]
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 1¼ inches, begin the fair-isle pattern following the 35 rows on the chart given at the end.

Then shape the back of the hat by casting off 30 stitches at each edge of next row. You now have 29 stitches.
[Editor's note: If I were knitting this I would cast off 30 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows and then continue on the centre 29 stitches only; this avoids having to break and rejoin the blue colour.]

Continue on the centre 29 stitches in blue colour, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 6 times.
Cast off the remaining 17 stitches.

Finishing the bonnet:

Fold the border along the row of eyelets to form the picot edge, and sew a hem.
Fold the T shaped knitting into a bonnet shape and sew the two back seams, so that the plain centre section forms the back of the head, and the picot edge frames the face.
With smaller size needles and blue colour, pick up and knit 64 stitches all around the bottom edge of the bonnet.

To make the chin strap, cast on 25 stitches (left side of work, right side of bonnet), and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. On the 2nd make 1 buttonhole 2 stitches wide, as on the coat, placing it 4 stitches from the end of the strap.
On the 5th row, cast off all stitches.
Sew a button on the other (left) side of the bonnet to attach the chin strap.

Bonnet Chart

October 2022

Knitted trouser suit

SixtiesTrouserSuit.jpg

Having spent years making tongue-in-cheek comments about knitted trousers, I find they seemed to become a kind of pandemic fashion item - safely out of site during Zoom meetings. I'm not sure the fashion was really for anything like hand-knitted trousers; however, sitting (unobserved!) in my poorly-insulated chilly office at the top of the house, cosy woollen trousers are taking on some kind of appeal.
Even if the trousers don't appeal, there is a rather nice matching low-belted long-line cable sweater - very much of the period.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 94 (106, 116) stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 7 (5, 10), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 7; repeat from * to last 7 (5, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 6 (4, 9).
[105 (119, 129) sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4; repeat from * once, p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times, k5 (4, 1).
2nd row: p30 (37, 42); * k4, p4, k4, p21; repeat from * once, p9 (16, 21).
3rd row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
4th row: work as for 2nd row.
5th row: work as for 1st row.
6th row: work as for 2nd row.
7th row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
8th row: work as for 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 16 inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 81 (89, 99) stitches remain.

* Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern 20 (22, 25), including the stitch used in casting off. Turn, leaving the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: w2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, w2tog. Repeat the last 2 rows once.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

With wrong side of work facing, join in yarn at the neck edge and work to end.
Next row (wrong side facing): pattern 23 (26, 30) stitches, w2tog.
Turn, leaving the centre 31 (33, 35) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
W2tog at the neck edge on the next 3 rows.
Next row: Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to end.
Work 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from * to *.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 4½ (5, ) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:
Next row: Pattern 30 (33, 37) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending at armhole edge.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
Slip the centre 21 (23, 25) stitches on to a spare needle.
Join in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, pattern to end.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7½ (8, ) from the start of the armhole shaping, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 52 (54, 56) stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 5 (4, 7), * work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (8, 13); repeat from * to last 5 (5, 7) stitches; work twice into next stitch, rib 4 (4, 6). [60 stitches].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and rib pattern.
1st row (right side facing): p4, * k4, p4; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p4, k4, repeat from * to end.

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Increase and work into rib pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 12th (9th, 7th) row until there are 76 (82, 88) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16½ (17, 17½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58, 64) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 36 (42, 46) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 22 (24, 24) stitches remain.
Cast off.

Jumper Shoulder Edging

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for ¾ inch.

1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over cast off stitches in previous row.
Work 1¾ (2, ) inches in rib, measured from base of buttonhole.
Work another buttonhole.
Work ¾ (1, 1¼) inches in rib, measured from base of previous buttonhole and ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.
Work a second piece to match, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join right shoulder seam.
With right side of work facing and using No 10 needles, rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging with buttonholes; pick up and k13
stitches down left side of front neck; knit across the 21 (23, 25) stitches at centre front; pick up and knit 15 stitches up right side of front neck; 7 stitches down right side of back neck; knit across the 31
(33, 35) stitches at the centre back, pick up and knit 4 stitches up left side of back neck, then rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging without buttonholes. [113 (117, 121) sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: k1, * p 1, k1 , repeat from * end.

Continue in rib, making a third buttonhole 1¾ (2, ) inches from base of previous buttonhole.
Change to No 11 needles and work a further ½ inch in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Jumper Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 36 (38, 40) inches, ending with a wrong side row. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following
alternate row until 3 stitches remain.
Knit 3 together, and fasten off.

Belt Tabs (Make 4):

Using No 10 needles, cast on 7 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p 1, * k 1, p 1, repeat from to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 ½ inches, ending with a wrong side row. Cast off in rib.

Making Up Jumper

Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Stitch Shoulder Edgings to left shoulder with a flat stitch.
Sew in sleeves, overlapping Shoulder Edging.
Sew on buttons.
Stitch belt tabs into position as shown in photograph.
Sew buckle to straight edge of belt.
Slot belt through tabs.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 25g balls.

Jumper:
22 (24, 26)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 10 (3¼mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

3 buttons.
1 buckle.

Trousers:
23 (25, 28)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

6 inch zip.
Elastic to fit waist.
1 trouser clip.

Tension

22 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch

Size matters

Jumper: to fit chest 30-31, (34-35, 37-38)
actual measurement
32 (36, 39) inches; length: 32 (36, 39) inches; sleeve seam: 16½ (17, 17½) inches.

Trousers: to fit hips 32-33 (35-36, 38-39) inches;
inside leg seam:
28 (28, 28) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
w2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
sl3F: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at front of work.
sl3B: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at back of work.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
sl1K: slip the next knitwise.
sl1P: slip the next purlwise.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting, 100% superwash wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Trousers Right Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k53 (57, 61); p2, k9, p2; k55 (59, 63).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k53 (57, 61); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k55 (59, 63).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k53 (57, 61); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k55 (59, 63).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 44 (48, 52), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 64 (68, 72), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Next row: k2tog, work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 45 (49, 53), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: Work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 43 (47, 51), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26), [k2tog] twice, work 35 (37, 39), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 77 (85, 93), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 17 (19, 21), k2tog, work to end. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work 15 (17, 19), k2tog, work 32 (34, 36), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 67 (71, 75), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Next row (wrong side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Left Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k55 (59, 63); p2, k9, p2; k53 (57, 61).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k55 (59, 63); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k53 (57, 61).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k55 (59, 63); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k53 (57, 61).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 49 (53, 57), m1, work to end. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 53 (57, 61), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 55 (59, 63), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 56 (60, 64), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 59 (63, 67), m1, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work 35 (37, 39), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 20 (20, 20), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 56 (60, 64), k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 32 (34, 36), k2tog, work 15 (17, 19), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 15 (19, 23), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row (right side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Waistband

Using backstitch, join front and inside leg seams.
With right side of work facing, and using No 10 (3¼mm) needles pick up and knit 160 (176, 192) stitches evenly around waistband from centre back seam to centre back seam.
Commencing with a purl row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Next row: Knit (this row marks the fold line).
Commencing with a knit row, work a further 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off fairly loosely.

Making Up Trousers

Sew in zip to centre back seam, placing top of zip in line with base of waistband, then join
remainder of seam.
Turn waist and ankle hems onto wrong side and slip stitch down.
Thread elastic through waistband and secure at each end.
Sew trouser clip to waistband.

September 2022

Pop Socks

PopSocks.jpg

These socks are made using 2 needles, with one main colour and 4 contrasts. Of course, you can have as many contrasts as you like, and it would be good for using up lots of bright leftovers yarns; however it's always good to have a consistent main colour to tie it all together.
Alternatively you could easily substitute a suitably cheerful self-striping yarn either for the contrast stripes, or used plain throughout, allowing it to do its thing.
whatever you choose, complete the look with clogs*.
Just the thing to jazz up your jeans. Make them with or without toes — and the brighter the better!

* note: if you knit separate toes, it might be a bit overcrowded in clogs...

Instructions.

The socks are worked on two needles.

Right Leg

**

Using No 11 needles and colour A, cast on 80 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): p1, * k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2 inches (5cm) from the start, ending with a wrong side row.

Join in colour B. Beginning with a knit row, continue in stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl), working in striped sequence of 4 rows B, 2 rows A, 4 rows C, 2 rows A, 4 rows D, 2 rows A, 4 rows E and 2 rows A throughout.
Continue in pattern until work measures 5 inches (12½cm) from the start, ending with a purl row.

Shape leg:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches k2tog, k1.

Keeping striped sequence correct. Continue in this way, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 60 stitches remain.
Continue without shaping until work measures 13½ inches (34½ cm)
from the start, or required length, ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for heel and instep

With right side of work facing, slip the first 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the heel.
Keeping the striped sequence correct, knit the next 30 stitches for the instep; turn; slip the last 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the other side of the heel.

Instep

Work 6½ inches (16½cm) in the striped sequence for the instep, ending with 2 rows in colour A (wrong side row).

Editor's note: Now you need to decide if you want "normal" socks, or socks with separate toes - useful for bar-toe sandals! - and if you are knitting toes then you leave the stitches on a stitch holder at this point while you continue to knit the heel.

Shape instep top without toes ("normal" sock)

Next row: Using colour A throughout, k1,sl1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Next row: purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Version including toes

Break off yarn and leave the stitches on a holder while you continue with the instructions to shape the heel.

Shape heel

Editor's note: heel shaping instructions for both versions of sock, with or without toes.

Slip the 30 stitches you previously left on holders on to the needle, placing the outside edges together in the middle.
Editor's note: you have curled the edges of the sock round to form a tube shape - but you continue to knit the heel just on these 30 stitches, back and forth using 2 needles.

Using colour A and with right side of work facing, shape the heel, working short rows as follows:

1st row (right side facing): sl1 knitwise, k28. Turn.
2nd row: sl1 purlwise, p27. Turn.
3rd row: sl1 knitwise, k26. Turn.
4th row: sl1 purlwise, p25. Turn.

Continue in this way, working one stitch less on every row until you have worked the row: "sl1 purlwise, p13. Turn." has been completed, leaving 8 stitches unworked at each side.

Next row: sl1 knitwise, k13. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and knit it together with the next stitch. Turn.
Next row: sl1 purlwise, p14. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and purl it together with the next stitch. Turn.

Continue working one more stitch on every row until you have picked up all the stitches and there are 30 stitches.
Matching the striped sequence with that on the instep, knit the sole by continuing in stocking stitch without shaping until the sole measures the same as the instep.

Shape sole top without toes ("normal" sock)

Shape the top by working exactly the same as for the instep shaping.

**

Version including toes

Having completed the heel, return to the instep stitches that you left on a holder.

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across instep stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the sole. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Using A throughout, and working on these 24 stitches, work 16 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Second toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour B, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the big toe. K5 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using B throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 14 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Third toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour C, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the second toe.
K5 stitches, turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using C throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the third toe shaping as given for second toe.

Fourth toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour D, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the third toe. K4 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p13, turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [15 sts]

Using D throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog all across the row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Little toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour E, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the fourth toe. Knit to end. Turn.
Next row: purl to end. [15 sts]

Using E throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the little toe shaping as given for the fourth toe.


Left Leg

Work as for right leg from ** to **.
This completes the version without separate toes.

Version including toes

Set the position of the toes for the left foot as follows:

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across the sole stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the instep. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Complete the big, second, third, fourth, and little toes, as given for the right leg.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly under a damp cloth with
a warm iron.
Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).
Sew in all ends.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 4 ply yarn in main shade (A) and 1 ball in each of 4 contrast colours (B, C, D, and E).

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
Stitch holders.

Tension

30 sts x 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit and "average" adult foot: 9/9½ inches (23/24cm). Length from top of heel: 13½ inches (34½ cm).

Abbreviations

sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a superwash 4ply. These days there is a huge choice of wool for socks, but I would recommend some nylon content.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2022

Trendy Crochet Dress

CrochetDress.jpg

A sixties dress in crochet - which is apparently one of the trends for the season. The simple lacy-look design is worked in light weight yarn over a four-row pattern.
Personally I have a slight prejudice that it can be a bit thick and heavy for summer wear - however the catwalks featured "jumbo" crochet items - so - time to sacrifice all for fashion!
On the plus side, crochet is a speedy technique, meaning that items are highly suitable for you to make for yourself in a reasonable time frame.

Instructions.

The dress is given for 3 sizes - larger sizes in brackets - which once again only go up as far as a 38 inch chest. The yarn required is a 4 ply fingering weight, but you could experiment with the tension using a DK soft cotton and a larger hook, which would tend more towards the "jumbo" nature of the designer version.

Back and Front (make 2 alike)

Using No 11 (3mm) hook make 141 (150 : 159) chain.

1st row: 1 dtr in 6th chain from hook, * miss 2 chain, 1 dtr in each of the next 4 chain, miss 2 chain, (1 dtr, 2 chain, 1 dtr) - referred to as 1 group - in next chain; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: 1 dc in first dtr, (5 chain, 1 dc in space before 4 dtr, 5 chain, 1 dc in space after 4 dtr) to end, working last dc in the turning chain.
[Editors note:the "5 chain" here creates what is subsequently referred to as a "loop".]

3rd row: 4 chain, 3 dtr in loop, (1 group in centre chain of next loop, 4 dtr in next loop) to end.
4th row: 1 dc in dtr, (5 chain, 1 dc before next group, 5 chain, 1 dc after group) to end, working last dc in the turning chain
5th row: 4 chain, (1 group in centre chain of loop, 4 dtr in next loop) up to 1 loop from end, then 1 group in loop, 1 dtr in end dc.
Repeat 2nd to 5th rows inclusive for pattern.

Continue in pattern until work measures 7 (8 : 9) inches.
Adjust length here, if required.
Change to No 12 (2¾mm) hook and work 11 inches.
Change to No 13 (2¼mm) hook and continue until work measures 26 (26½ : 27) inches, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Armhole Shaping:
Next row: slip stitch over 1 pattern; then pattern until 1 pattern remains, turn.
Next row: slip stitch over 3 chain; then pattern to within 3 chain from the end, turn.

Continue in pattern until work measures 32½ (33½ : 34½) inches, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Neck and Shoulder shaping:
Next row: pattern over 3 complete patterns, turn.
Next row: pattern to end.
Next row: slip stitch over 1 pattern; then pattern to within 3 stitches from the end.
Fasten off.

Miss 6 (7 : 8) complete patterns and 1 group; join in yarn and complete to match the other side.

To Make Up

Press work with a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join shoulder and side seams.

Edging: Work in rounds around neck, armholes and lower edge.
1st round: dc (working 3 dc over chain loop or dtr). Do not turn.
2nd round: dc in reverse, inserting hook in next dc to right.
[Editors note: dc in reverse can also be called crab stitch - it's a little awkward to perform, but gives a twisted cord effect edge There are various tutorials to be found on-line.]

Fasten off.
Sew in any loose ends.


For an excellent round-up of SS22 trends on the catwalks review the items at Wardrobe Icons.

Crochet dress, seen here in Tod's sixties-inspired jumbo crochet shift.

TodsJumboCrochet.jpg

Materials

4ply fingering yarn:
13 (14 : 15) oz of crepe 4ply.

Nos 11 (3mm), 12 (2¾mm), and 13 (2¼mm) crochet hooks.

Tension

2 patterns to 3 inches on 3mm hook.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34 / 36 / 38 inches;
length:
33 / 34 / 35 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was pure wool crepe 4 ply - crepe being good for crochet as the yarn tends to resist splitting.
1 oz is about 28 grams; yardage unknown.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2022

Cool Customer

CoolCustomer.jpg

An easy ribbed slipover for breezier summer days.

Instructions.

The main pattern stitch is named as "beaded rib" worked as follows:

1st row and all odd rows (right side facing): knit
2nd row and all even rows: * k1; k1b (see abbreviations). Repeat from * to end of round.
Editor's note: I would call this stitch "mock fisherman's rib" - "mock" because the alternate rows are knitted plain.

Back

With smaller sized needles, cast on 134/140/146/152/158 stitches, and work 2¾ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to larger needles and work in the "beaded rib" stitch until work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next, and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows.
[104/108/112/116/120 sts]

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/2 inches.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 10/9/10/11/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, k18/9/10/11/11, cast off centre 28/30/32/34/34, knit to end.
Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, p18/19/19/19/20 and then turn, leaving the 19/20/20/20/21 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.

Next row: cast off 10 at the neck edge, knit to end.
Next row: cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and cast off 10 at the neck edge, purl to end. Turn and cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder.

Front

Work as for back up to the start of the armhole shaping when work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Start the armhole shaping, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows.
[114/120/126/128/134 sts]

Divide for neck by continuing on the first half of the stitches only and placing the remaining half of the stitches [57/60/63/64/67 sts] on a spare needle.

Keeping the pattern correct, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows, and, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 5th row 24/25/26/27/27 times. [28/29/30/31/33 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/2 inches, then shape shoulders by casting off at the armhole edge on every alternate row, 10/9/10/11/11 stitches once, and 9/10/10/10/11 stitches twice.

Rejoin the yarn to the stitches on the spare needle and work the other side of the neck to match, reversing the shapings.

To Make Up

Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
With double pointed needles or circular, beginning at the lowest point of the V-neck, pick up and knit 64/68/72/76/80 stitches up the right neck edge, then 46/50/52/54/54 stitches around the back neck, then
64/68/72/76/80 stitches down the left neck edge.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib, but work
back and forth (rather than in the round), decreasing 1 stitch at each end on every row.
Bind off loosely in rib and sew the neck border bias seam.

Armhole borders:
With smaller size needles, pick up and knit 184/190/196/202/206 stitches evenly around the armholes.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib.
Bind off loosely in rib.

Sew side seams including the armhole border seams.

Block and press as required.

Materials

4 ply yarn:
6/7/7/8/8 x 50g balls

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2¾mm) double pointed needles or circular.

Tension

28sts and 60 rows to 4 inches on 3¼mm needles over "beaded rib" stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
38/40/41/43/44 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k1b: knit 1 below: insert needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch to be knitted, and knit off both stitches at the same time.
Editor's note: This stitch is fairly well known now due to the popularity of brioche knitting; however it's easier to demonstrate than describe, so if you don't understand then look for video demonstrations on YouTube or similar.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was an acrylic yarn with a yardage of about 170m per 50g ball.

You can use a 4 or 5 ply yarn for this loose fitting design, but check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

May 2022

Long Lacy Sweater

LongLacySweater.jpg

This sweater from the end of the 1970s is a presage of the style that became so ubiquitous in the 1980s - the oversized unisex sweater with drop shoulders and no shaping. It is very simply constructed with wide squared off sleeves and no armhole shaping on the body. The neck opening is formed from a vertical slit, rather like a poncho - all very simple.

This is one of my favourite types of sweater - really long and slouchy with a deep welt - suitable to wear with narrow trousers or leggings. [Clearly I belong in the 1980s.] In addition, the stitch used is an openwork lacy pattern which I find very satisfying to knit. In fact, this particular sweater looks so very long, I might be tempted to knit it shorter for myself (I am not very tall) to keep the style of a tunic rather than a dress.
...the length is mini-skirt, the style blouson. Surprisingly easy to knit, this feminine open lace stitch sweater worked on large size needles adds new dimensions to a sporty Aran...

Instructions.

The pattern is written for one size only, and at 34 to 38 inches this might be a bit of a limitation. It is designed to be oversized, so the actual measurement should come out at about 41 inches if you achieve the stated tension.

[Editor's note: I can see why they would have had difficulty providing a sensible larger size, as the lace pattern is repeated over 34 stitches - so if you added another repeat it would increase the size by at least 12 inches. Having said that, many oversize sweaters, both in the eighties and now, are designed to be in excess of 50 inches as a supposed "one size", and it would be a moderately feasible task to redraft the pattern, due to the lack of shaping - if you had the appetite for it.]

Front

** With 4mm needles, cast on 88 stitches.

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows until work measures 8½ inches (21 cm), ending with a 1st row.

Next row: p6, increase in the next stitch, * p4, increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last 6 stitches, p6. [104 sts].

Change to No 5½ mm needles and work in pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * k3, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k3; repeat from * to
last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. 3rd row: k1, * k1, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * p2togtbl, p4, yrn. p3, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

5th - 12th rows: Repeat 1st to 4th rows twice.

13th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k6, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
14th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p4, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
16th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p3, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

17th - 24th rows: Repeat 13th to 16th rows twice.

These 24 rows form the pattern. **
Continue in pattern until Front measures 30 inches (76 cm), ending with right side facing for next row (measured with work hanging from needle to allow for drop).
[Editor's note: Calculating from the tension this should be about 108 rows in the pattern or 4½ pattern repeats.]

Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: Make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row..]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Front measures 38 inches (97cm), ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: I think they rather gloss over this instruction - you need to have made a note of the row number on which you divided for the neck so you can make sure you resume the pattern here on the correct row.]

Back

Work as for Front from ** to **.
Continue in pattern until Back measures 34 inches (86 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: As you did for the Front, make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row.]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Back matches Front at side edge, ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: Having seen how you did it with the Front, you can resume the pattern here on the correct row, using the note you made when you divided the Back neck.]

Sleeves

With 4mm needles, cast on 36 stitches and work in rib as for Front for 4 inches (10cm), ending with a 1st row.
Next row: p1, * increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1. [70 sts]
Change to 5½mm needles, and work in pattern as for Front until Sleeve measures 18 inches (46cm) down centre, ending with right side
facing.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.
Placing centre of cast-off stitches of sleeves to shoulder seams, sew sleeves in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

18 x 50g balls of Aran weight yarn yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm), 5 (5½mm).

Tension

This design uses big needles so the tension is
20 stitches x 20 rows to 4 ins on No 5½mm needles over the pattern - different from the usual Aran tension.

The original yarn knitted to a tension of 18 stitches x 24 rows to 4 inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-38 inches; length: 38 inches;
and sleeve seam: 18 inches.

Abbreviations

M2: make 2 stitches by picking up the horizontal loop lying before the next stitch and working into back and front of it.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward" / "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1k: slip one stitch knitwise.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 stitches together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 stitches together.
tbl: through back loop(s).
sl: slip.

A word on the wool.

The original sweater was knitted in a Patons Capstan - a pure wool classic Aran weight yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2022

Choose Tweed

TweedDress.jpg

This wasn't my original choice for this month, but recently I have noticed a trend for monochrome wool dresses in some fashion articles. Not too hard to knit as the two-colour effect is formed by slipping stitches - so only one colour in any one row.

Instructions.

A tweed dress in 3 sizes (small/medium/large).

Back

**
Using No 8 (4mm) needles lighter tweed colour (L), cast on 129/135/141 stitches, and begin working in the two-colour pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Purl in L - do not break yarn L.
2nd row: Join in darker contrast D, p1, * with wool at front, sl1, p1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Using D, p1, * wool back, sl1, wool forward, p1; repeat from * to end - do not break yarn D.
4th row: Purl in L.
5th row: Purl in L - do not break yarn L.
6th row: Using D, p2, * with wool at front, sl1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
7th row: Using D, p2, * wool back, sl1, wool forward, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1 - do not break yarn D.
8th row: Purl in L.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight until back measures 3 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape skirt as follows:
1st decrease row: p42/44/46, p3tog, p39/41/43, p3tog, p42/44/
46. [125/131/137 sts]

Work straight until back measures 6 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
2nd decrease row: p41/43/45, p3tog, p37/39/41, p3tog, p41/43/45. [121/127/133 sts]

Work straight until back measures 9 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
3rd decrease row: p40/42/44, p3tog, p35/37/39, p3tog, p40/42/44. [117/123/129 sts]

Work straight until back measures 12 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.

Continue in this way, decreasing 4 stitches on every 1st or 5th pattern row at 3 inch intervals, until 97/103/109 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 29½ inches down centre, ending with 2nd or 6th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 75/79/83 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 31/31½/32 inches, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for back opening:
Next row: pattern 37/39/41, turn, and leave remaining 38/40/42 stitches on a spare needle.

Continue straight on these 37/38/41 stitches for first side, until back measures 36½/37/37½ inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6/7/8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7/7/7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Cast off remaining 17/18/19 stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off the centre stitch, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
[75/79/83 sts]

Work straight until front measures 34/34½/35 inches, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:

Next row: pattern 28/29/30, turn, and leave remaining 47/50/53 stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work straight in pattern.

Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 20/21/22 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches, cast off the centre 19/21/23 stitches, and pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with the first side.

To Make Up

Press parts or block lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Facing:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and D colour, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 20/21/22 stitches across left side of back, 17 down left side of front, 19/21/23 from the centre front, 17 up right side of front, and 20/21/22 across right side of back.
[93/97/101 sts]
Work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch for 5 rows, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Armhole Facing:
With right side facing,
Using No 10 needles and D colour, pick up and knit 88/94/100 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 5 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Join side seams.
Join armhole facing.
Fold neck and armhole facings to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position all round, so that the stitches do not show through on the right side.
Insert zip into back opening, allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams lightly on wrong side.

Materials

Double knitting:
15/17/19 x 1oz balls in lighter coloured tweed ;
8/9/10 balls in darker solid colour.

Pair each of
No 8 (4mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

6 inch zip.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles over pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 inches;
length from top of shoulders:
36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
p3tog: purl 3 stitches together
stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
L: lighter tweed
D: darker contrast

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was pure wool in a standard DK weight.
Yardage is not given but I would not expect it to be longer than average for a pure wool.
Given the requirement for tweed I might use Rowan felted tweed for both colours as it is a favourite of mine, and not too heavy a weight, which I might be concerned about with a dress made in a textured stitch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2022

Gentlemen prefer...

GentlemenPreferGrey.jpg

well... they prefer... grey if my experience is anything to go by (whether it's 50 shades or maybe just 2); even the muted coloured stripe is a risk. However, colour choices are easily adapted to the taste of the wearer, and in my case: I love stripes (both wearing and knitting them), whatever the colours.
Otherwise - the greys have it.

Instructions.

A man's plain loose sweater in 3 sizes (small medium and large).

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 118/122/126 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in dark grey contrast (G) to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 2 / 3 / 4 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[120/125/130 sts].
Work in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M.

After the first 12 rows of the seventh stripe (which is in in colour G), shape the armholes by casting off 9/10/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [102/105/108 sts].

Change to colour R and work 14 rows for the 8th stripe.

Change to colour G and continue in striped stocking stitch alternating between colours G and M.
When work measures 26¼ / 26¾ / 27¼ inches, shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, k7/8/9, cast off centre 50/51/52, knit to end.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, p7/8/9 and then turn, leaving the 8/9/10 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.
Next row: k8/9/10, turn, cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and purl 8/9/10. Turn and cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder

Front

Work as for back until work measures 23¼ / 23½ / 24 inches.

Keeping continuity of the striped pattern shape neck as follows:
Next row: k43/44/45, cast off the centre 16/17/18 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: p43/44/45 and leave the remaining 43/44/45 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder while you complete the left front separately.

At the beginning of the next row cast off 4 stitches. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row, cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With wrong side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Knit 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the left front.

With wrong side facing, return to the stitches for the right side of the front, rejoin the yarn to the neck edge, and cast off 4 stitches, purl to end. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With right side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Purl 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the right front.

Sleeves

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 66/70/74 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½/4/ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.
[Editor's note: You may be puzzled by the largest size having a smaller sleeve welt. This is to keep the sleeve length correct overall, while trying to keep to an exact sequence of the stripes.]

With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in contrast to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 18/19/20 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[84/89/94 sts].
Working in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M, as before; however, for the largest size 3, begin the stocking stitch with a stripe of main colour M, followed by G. This will ensure you end at the top of the sleeve with a stripe in the dark contrast G, as shown in the photo.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th row, 11 times.
[106/111/116 sts].

Continue until work measures 20 / 20¾ / 21½ inches from the beginning, [Editor's note: This should be 126/128/140 rows in stocking stitch.], which should be an exact number of stripes, ending with the darker grey colour G - for the second (medium) size you should work 16 rows in colour G on this last stripe.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts or block lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
Using the set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), pick up and knit 128/132/132 stitches evenly around the neck.
Work 3 rounds in K2/P2 rib, the 6 rounds in main shade (M), then 3 rounds in colour R. Cast off in rob using R.

Sew in sleeves. [Editor's note: The instructions are not explicit on this point but as the top of the sleeve is a straight edge, I would be inclined to sew it to the straight edge of the armhole, and sew the top half inch of the side of the sleeve to the cast off stitches of the armhole.]
Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Diagram showing dimensions for smallest size:

Materials

Double knitting yarn:
6/6/7 x 50g balls in light grey (M);
5/6/6 balls in darker grey (G);
1/2/2 ball dark red (R)

Pair each of
No 11 (3mm), and
No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles.
One set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to four inches on 3½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 / 42 / 44 inches,
[actual sizes approximately 2 inches larger];
length from top of shoulders:
26¼ / 26¾ /27¼ inches;
sleeve seam:
19½ / 20 / 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
M: main light grey
G: mid grey
R: wine red

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was mixed fibre double knitting equivalent.
Yardage was approximately 140 meters (153 yards) per 50g ball; this is the key point to note when substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

January 2022

Set Up for the Cold

SetUpForTheCold.jpg

A "long, long" scarf worked in bands of stripes and jacquard pattern, with a matching pull-on hat and gloves to complete the set. These are all knitted in a lighter weight yarn, but the scarf is double thickness so will be very snug; it's also pretty long, so check that's what you want, as obviously you can make it to whatever length you like.

Instructions

The scarf is worked on 4 needles in the round to make a tube, which is then flattened; the result is a flat scarf with two layers of knitted fabric, and means you don't have to worry about seeing the "wrong side" of the knitting. This is a standard way to make - especially commercial - scarves. Although often seen made in the round, both the hat and the gloves are worked flat on two needles, with a seam making them into the required round shape. It would be simple enough to adapt this pattern and make the hat in the round, especially as you have the method given for the scarf. If this is your first attempt at gloves, however, making them flat may be a good way to start.

Scarf

Using the set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or the circular needle - cast on 112 sts in Main Shade (A).
Work in rounds of stocking stitch (every round knit).

Pattern as follows:

**
1st and 2nd rounds: using B knit.
3rd and 4th rounds: using A knit.
5th and 6th rounds: using C knit.
7th and 8th rounds: using D knit.
9th and 10th rounds: using E knit.
11th - 23rd rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 1.
24th - 33rd rounds: repeat rows 1-10.
**
34th - 46th rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 2.

These 46 rounds form the pattern.
Repeat these rounds 10 times more, then the 1st to the 33rd rounds again.

Cast off using A.

To make up the Scarf

Darn in all ends on the wrong side.
Press gently under a damp cloth using a warm iron.
Turn the scarf right side out.
Cut yarn A into 20½ cm (8 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe through both thicknesses of both short ends at 1½ cm (½ inch) intervals.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a knitted tube, and you are now flattening it (to make the scarf double thickness); you then attach the fringe to each straight end, through both edges - which also serves to close the ends of the tube instead of sewing them together (but you might want to sew them anyway).]
Trim the fringe.


Hat

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on loosely 144 stitches. Work 20 rows K1/P1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [145 sts]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles. Continue in stocking stitch with the same pattern as given for the scarf but knitting back and forth in rows, not in the round. Work from ** to **, with every alternate row being purl. Then continue, repeating rows 1 - 10 only throughout.

Continue in pattern until work measures 18cm (7 inches) from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape the crown

Decrease for the crown, keeping the continuity of the striped pattern:
1st decrease row: k5, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k9) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k5. [121 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
2nd decrease row: k4, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k7) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k4. [97 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
3rd decrease row: k3, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k5) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k3. [73 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
4th decrease row: k2, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k3) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k2. [49 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
5th decrease row: (k2tog, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog) 7 times. [21 sts]
Purl one row.
Next row: (sl1, k2tog, psso) 7 times.
Break off yarn, and thread through remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Press as given for the scarf.
Join the centre back seam, taking care to reverse the seam on brim (which folds back).
Fold the brim in half to the right side.


Gloves

Note: When working the gloves, use separate balls of yarn for the palm and thumb, twisting the yarns at the back of the work when changing colours.

Right hand glove

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 56 stitches.
Work 26 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 11 (3 mm) needles, and beginning with a knit row work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Start thumb shaping:

1st row: using first ball of B, k28; using A, increase one stitch in each of the next 2 stitches, k1; using a 2nd ball of B, k25.
2nd row: using B, p25; using A, p5; using B, p28.
3rd row: using A, knit to end.
4th row: using A, purl to end.
5th row: using C, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k2, increase in the next stitch, k1; using C, K25.
6th row: using C, p25; using A, p7; using C, p28.
7th row: using D, k28; using A, k7; using D, k25.
8th row: using D, p25; using A, p7; using D, p28.
9th row: using E, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k4, increase in the next stitch, k1; using E, k25.
10th row: using E, p25; using A, p9; using E; p27, increase in the last stitch. [63 sts including 9 thumb sts]

Continue in pattern as given for chart, increasing the thumb stitches as before on the 3rd and then every foil 4th row until the 24th row has been completed, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.

Thumb:

Next row: using B, k28; using A, k16 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches. [20 sts]
***
Beginning with a knit row, work 18 rows in stocking stitch.

[Editor's note: For this method you keep all the stitches on the needles as you work the thumb and each finger separately. At this point for the thumb, you keep 28 stitches unworked on the right hand needle, and 25 stitches unworked on the left hand needle, while you work on the centre 16 stitches (which you have increased to 20 by casting on 2 extra stitches on each side. You knit the thumb flat, back and forth up to the tip, then you fasten off and sew it up into the thumb shape.]

Shape top:
Next row: (k2tog, k2) 5 times.
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 7 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
Join seam.

With right side of work facing and using B, knit up 4 stitches from the base of the thumb, knit to end. [57 sts]
[Editor's note: With right side facing, you have 28 stitches already on the right hand needle; you rejoin the yarn at the centre where the thumb is, and start by picking up the 4 stitches that you cast on, which are now wrapped round to meet at the base of the thumb. You then knit the 25 stitches on the left hand needle. Don't worry if you end up with small holes showing at the base of the thumb, (or, later, the fingers) as you can pull them in later when you sew in the ends from the join.]
Beginning with a purl row work one row in B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows D, 2 rows E and 4 rows A, ending with a purl row.
Continue in A only.

Divide for fingers:

1st finger
Next row: k36, turn and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows in stocking stitch on these 18 stitches.

Shape top:
**
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 4 times, k2. [14 sts]
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2 tog) 7 times.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
**
Join seam.

2nd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 1st finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 28 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete to match first finger, working from ** to **.
Join seam.

3rd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 2nd finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Complete to match 2nd finger.
Join seam.

4th finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 3rd finger, k6.
Beginning with a purl row, continue in stocking stitch across all remaining stitches for 19 rows.

Shape top
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 5 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
***

Left hand glove

Work as given for right hand glove, reversing the pattern and the position of thumb as follows:

1st row: using 1st ball of B, k25; using A, increase one stitch in each of
the next 2 stitches, k1; using 2nd ball of B, k28.

Continue as given for right hand glove until 24th row of pattern has been completed.

Thumb

Next row: using B, k24; using A, k16, turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18, turn and cast on 2 stitches.

Complete as given for right hand glove working from *** to ***.

To make up

Press as given for scarf.
Join side seam and 4th finger seam.

Materials

25g balls of 4 ply (fingering) yarn:

Scarf: 4 balls in main shade A
5 balls in contrast B
4 balls in contrast C
2 balls in contrast D
2 balls in contrast E

One set of 4 3¼mm (UK 10) double pointed needles (dpn), or a circular needle.

Hat and gloves:
3 balls in main shade A
1 ball in each of the contrast colours B, C, D, and E.

One pair of 3mm (UK 11), and one pair of 2¾mm (UK 12) needles

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on 3¼ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 20½ cm (8 inches) wide, by 183cm (72 inches) long, excluding the fringe
Hat: to fit an average adult head.
Gloves: to fit an average adult hand.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply superwash wool; about 92 yards (84 m) per 25g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2021

Snug Gown for Bedtime

SnugToddlerGown.jpg

The cutest hooded gown made in a soft chunky yarn - perfect for bedtime, (or other occasions, as it is described as a "coat"). The lower section has a design of kittens - and there is a cute toy cat to match.

Instructions

The pattern is given in 3 sizes: 12 (18 : 24) months. Where only one set of instructions is given it applies to all sizes.
The body of the gown is worked as one piece up to the armholes.

Sleeves

With 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 22 (24 : 26) stitches and work 3 (3 : 4) cm in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Work 1 row in purl increasing 7 stitches evenly across the row.
[29 (31 : 33) sts].

Now change to 6mm needles and stocking stitch following the Fair Isle colour pattern in the chart for the sleeve:

For the first size, begin with 1 stitch in black (B) then 1 in main shade (M); for the second size, begin with 1M, 1B, 1M; for the third size, begin with 4M, 1B, 1M, 1B, 1M.
Then follow the 16 stitch repeat shown in the chart.
At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 7th (8th : 10th) row 3 times, taking the stitches into the pattern.
[35 (37 : 39) sts].
Then work 3 (4 : 6) more rows, and then place a stitch marker or piece of coloured thread at each end of the row.

Continue in stocking stitch: for the smallest size, work the last 3 rows of the chart, then purl one row in main shade; for the second and third sizes work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Then for all sizes, change to 5mm needles and finish by working 4 rows in garter stitch.

Leave the stitches on a stitch holder or spare needle and work a second sleeve in the same way.

Body (knitted as a single piece)

Using size 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 113 (121 : 129) stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch.

Change to 6mm needles and work 2 (2 : 6) rows in stocking stitch.

Continue stocking stitch and follow the Fair-Isle pattern working from the charts.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 1, commencing with 1M, 1B, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, as indicated.

Now work the 19 rows of the cat pattern from Chart 2, 4 times across the row, placing 3 (5 : 7) stitches between each group, and working 2 (3 : 4) stitches in main shade before the first and after the last group.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 3, commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.
Next, work 10 (17 : 17) rows of Chart 4, commencing 1M, 1B, 5M, then repeating the 16 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, 5M, 1B, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 2 rows as in Chart 3, as before, (commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated).

Work 3 (2 : 2) rows in stocking stitch, and (wrong side facing) work 4 rows in garter stitch.

At this point you have completed 58 (64 : 68) rows and your work should measure 32 (35 : 38) cm.

Now you must divide the work and continue knitting the back and fronts separately.

Change to 5mm needles and work in k1/p1 rib as follows, casting off some stitches for the armholes, as well as decreasing across the row.

Next (right side facing, decrease) row: k2, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1; place these 23 (25, 27 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 23 (25, 27) stitches will form the right front.]

...and continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, k1; place these 47 (51, 55 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 47 (51, 55) stitches will form the back.]

And continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1.
[Editor's note: You are now going to continue to work on this last section of 23 (25, 27) stitches to complete the left front
.]

Upper Left Front

Next row (wrong side facing): p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With right side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Right Front

Rejoin yarn to the right front section at the front edge.

Next row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Back section

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches in the centre.
Next row (wrong side facing)
: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [47 (51 : 55) sts]

Work a further 26 (28 : 30) rows in k1/p1 rib.

Now shape shoulders and back neck by casting off 5 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib 15 (17 : 19) (including the stitch already on the needle), cast off 7 stitches, and rib to end.
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn, and work each side of the next separately.
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn.
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the right side of the Back neck.

Rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches at the neck edge and, right side facing, rib one row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the left side of the Back neck.

Button Band

Using 5mm needles, cast on 65 (71 : 77) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 5 rows, keeping the 2 stitches at each end of the row in stocking stitch - like this:

Next row: k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

And so on for 5 rows in all.

Purl one row, then knit 3 rows in stocking stitch using waste yarn of a different colour. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or holder.

Make a second (right hand) band in the same way, adding 3 button holes on the 4th row:

4th row: k2, p1, k1, cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib to end.
5th row: p2, then continue in rib as set, casting on 2 stitches over the 3 buttonholes where you cast off on previous row.
6th row: purl.

Complete with 3 rows of waste yarn as before.

Hood

Using 5mm needles, cast on 69 (73 : 75) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 8 rows.

Change to 6mm needles and work 11 (13 : 15) rows in stocking stitch.
With wrong side facing, cast off 6 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
[15 (17 : 19) sts]

Wrong side facing, continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 3 times. [21 (23 : 25) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.

Right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th (6th : 5th) row 3 (3 : 4) times. [15 (17 : 17) sts]
Work 9 (9 : 7) rows straight.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Sew shoulder and sleeve seams up to the coloured markers.
Fit the sleeves to the armholes, grafting the live stitches to the armhole edge, and sewing the sections of the sleeve seam left free to the stitches cast off at the armholes of the body.
[Editor's note: If grafting the stitches makes no sense to you, you can just cast these stitches off in the normal way and then sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole edge - and then sew the marked section of sleeve seam to the cast-off stitches of the body as instructed.
]

Sew the button band, stitch by stitch, to the right side of the work using back stitch, (undo the rows of waste yarn).

Sew up the sides of the hood. Fold the front edge in half inwards and sew round like a hem to make a channel to thread the cord through.
Sew the hood to the neck, making sure you leave the hem open at the ends.
Make a 150cm twisted cord and 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the hem of the hood. Attach the pompoms at each end.
Lightly iron the seams.

Finish the buttonholes with embroidery if desired, and sew on buttons.

Materials

Chunky or Bulky weight yarn in 50g approx 45m balls (see notes below):
7 (8 : 9) balls main pale blue shade (M) "Forget-Me-Not".
2 balls in dark blue/black (B) "Sloe".
2 balls in grey (G) "Mouse".
1 ball in Ecru. (E)

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

3 buttons..

Tension

13 sts and 18 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Chest size:
20 (22 : 24) inches,
52 (56 : 60) cm;

length from top of shoulders:
18 (19½ : 21) ins,
46 (50 : 54) cm;

sleeve seam:
7½ ( : 10) ins,
19 (21 : 25½) cm.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
garter stitch: knit every row.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original was knitted in a soft brushed chunky wool blend. Available information suggests it was sold in 50g balls with a yardage of about 45 metres per ball.

Be very careful in your choice of yarn and quantities when substituting though, as "big wool" can lead to big miscalculations - and needless to say - knit a swatch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Mittens

This is a pattern for a very simple little pair of mittens in matching colours. The mittens are attached to a cord which is threaded through the armholes of a coat so that they can hang free at the ends of the sleeves if removed (and thus don't get lost).

With 5mm needles and dark contrast colour (B), cast on 18 (18 : 20) stitches and work 3 cm in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 6mm needles and work 12 (12 : 14) rows in stocking stitch. Then work as follows:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, k1.
[14 (14 : 16) sts]
Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing, and thread it through the stitch and pull up.


To make up the mittens: sew up the sides.
In colour B, make a 130cm twisted cord and in main shade (M), make 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the sleeves of the coat - if you are making them to go with the pattern above, you can attach the cord to the neck - so it stays permanently in place. Attach the mittens at each end and attach a pompom to each mitten,

CatSleeveDiagram.jpg

CatBodyDiagram.jpg

CatHoodDiagram.jpg

October 2021

Nordic Style Cardigan

NordicCardigan3.jpg

This drop-shoulder design cardigan in cheering Nordic colours is taken from a much-loved and much-handled pattern.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - the larger sizes are shown in brackets.

When working the pattern weave the yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work; do not strand the threads over more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.

Back and Fronts (worked in one piece up to the armholes)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (R), cast on 194 [206, 218] stitches and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

These two rows form the rib. Work a further 31 rows.

Next (increase) row: p9 [12, 4], m1, * p8 [7, 7], m1; repeat from * until p9 [12, 4] stitches remain; purl to end. {217 [233, 249] sts}

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and join in white (W). Weaving in the yarns not in use, work the 2-colour pattern entirely in stocking stitch, beginning, on the right side of the work, with a knit row. Note: only the colours are specified below.

1st row (knit): 3R, * 3W, 5R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 3R instead of 5R.
2nd row (purl): 4R, * 1W, 7R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 4R.
3rd row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
4th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).
5th row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W.
6th row (purl): 1W, * 7R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
7th row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
8th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).

NordicCardigan2ColourChart.jpg

These 8 rows form the 2-colour pattern. Work a further 59 rows, up to the armholes, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Divide to separate back and fronts: With red, (R) p51 [55, 59] stitches; increase in the next stitch and leave these 53 [57, 61] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the left front;
p113 [121, 129] stitches, turn, and leave the remaining 52 [56, 60] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the right front.

Back

On these 113 [121, 129] stitches work the 36 row 3-colour pattern, weaving in the yarns not in use at the back of the work. Once again, the pattern is worked entirely in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row so only the colour details are shown. Join in blue (B).

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
4th row (purl): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
5th row (knit): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
6th row (purl): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
7th row (knit): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
8th row (purl): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
9th row (knit): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
10th row (purl): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
11th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
12th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
13th row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
14th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
15th row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
16th row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
17th row(knit): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
18th row(purl): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
19th row(knit): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.
20th row(purl): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.

[Editor's note: Rows 21-36 are a repeat of rows 1-16 worked in exact mirror image so Row 21 is the same as row 16, row 22 is the same as row 15, and so on back to the first row the same as row 36..]

21st row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
22nd row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
23rd row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
24th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
25th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
26th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
27th row (knit): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
28th row (purl): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
29th row (knit): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
30th row (purl): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
31st row (knit): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
32nd row (purl): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
33rd row (knit): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
34th row (purl): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
35th row (knit): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
36th row (purl): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.

NordicCardigan3ColourChart.jpg

Break off blue and continue in the 2-colour pattern, beginning with the 3rd row. Work 10 [10, 14] rows.

Slope shoulders: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With right side facing, rejoin the yarns to the the inner (armhole) end of the 53 [57, 61] stitches, and work in the 3 colour pattern as follows.

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 1 [5, 1] stitches remain; 1B [(1B, 4R), (1B)] .
2nd row (purl): 2B [(3R, 3B), (2B)] , * 5R, 3B; repeat from * until 3 stitches remain; 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 3 [7, 3] stitches remain; 3B [(5B,2R), (3B)]
4th row (purl): (4B, 1R) [(1R), (4B, 1R)] , * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern. Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) knit 1 row.

To shape the neck:

1st row (purl, wrong side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches, purl to end.
2nd row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * until 2 [5, 8] stitches remain; k0 [(3R), (6R)]; k2tog in R.

** Keeping continuity of the 2-colour pattern to match the main part, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 5 rows — when working the right front read 6 rows here instead — {38 [41, 44] sts}.

Pattern 2 [2, 6] rows.

Slope shoulder: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work one row, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 2 following alternate rows. Work one row.
Cast off remaining 6 [7, 7] stitches.

Right Front

With wrong side facing, rejoin red (R) at the the inner (armhole) end, increase in the first stitch, and purl to end. {53 [57, 61] sts}

Work in the 3 colour pattern as follows:

1st row (knit): 1B [(4R, 1B), (1B)], * 7R 1B; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain; 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 2 [6, 2] stitches remain; 2B [(3B, 3R), (2B)]
3rd row (knit): 3B [(2R,5B), (3B)] , * 3R, 5B; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2R.
4th row (purl): * 1R, 7B; repeat from * until 5 [1, 5] stitches remain; (1R, 4B) [(1R), (1R,4B)].

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern.
Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) work 2 rows.

To shape the neck:

1st row (knit, right side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches; knit k1R [(4R), (2W, 5R)]; * 3W, 5R; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2W.

Work as given for left front from ** to end, noting the variation.

Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade R, cast on 48 [48, 52] stitches and work 32 rows in double rib as for main piece.

Next (increase) row: k4, m1, * k1, m1; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain;k4. {89 [89, 97] sts}

Purl one row in red (R).

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work 72 rows in the 2-colour pattern as given on main piece (back and fronts).

Work the 36 rows of the 3-colour pattern as given on back.
Break off blue (B) and white (W).

With red (R) knit one row, then cast off.

Button Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 158 [158, 162] rows in k1/p1 single rib, beginning odd numbered rows with k1, and even numbered rows with p1.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Buttonhole Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 6 [6, 10] rows in k1/p1 single rib, as given for button band.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on previous row.
Rib 24 rows.

Repeat the last 26 rows 4 times more, then the 2 buttonhole rows again. Rib 19 more rows, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

Using the No 10 (3¼mm) needles holding the 13 stitches of the buttonhole band, and continuing the last row, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from right neck shaping, knit across 37 [39, 41] stitches from the back, increasing 3 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from left neck shaping, and finally rib across the 13 stitches (from the safety pin) of the button band. {112 [116, 124] sts}

1st rib row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * 5 times, k2; ** p2, k2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; p1, * k1, p1; repeat from this last * to end.
2nd rib row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * 5 times, p2; ** k2, p2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; k1, * p1, k1; repeat from this last * to end.

These two rows set the rib. Work 3 rows.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib as set to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on 1st row.

Work 12 rows in rib as set, then work the 2 buttonhole rows again.
Rib 4 rows, cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a warm iron over a dry cloth, or following any instructions on the ball band.

Set sleeves into armholes, and join the sleeve seams.
Sew front bands to respective fronts.
Turn neckband in half to the wrong side, and catch in place. Oversew the buttonhole in the neckband.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 [5, 6] 50g balls DK in main shade (R) red, plus
2 [2, 3] balls (B) blue, and
2 [2, 3] balls (W) white.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.

Tension

26 stitches x 27 rows to 4 ins (10cm) over the pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 [36, 38] inches, (86 [91, 97] cm);
length: 22 [22,
22½] inches, (56 [56, 57½] cm);
sleeve seam: 19¾ [19¾, 19¾] inches, (50 [50, 50] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working twice into the same stitch.

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2021

Casual Country Weekend

CasualCountryWeekend.jpg

Simply styled early sixties casual sweaters with separate instructions for her and for him. They are knitted in "triple knitting" yarn - a short-lived experiment by the yarn companies to introduce what is now the American "worsted" weight standard to British knitters. However, we were too much in love with our double knitting yarn - I mean that was bulky enough surely?!
However, owing to globalisation, we have now fully embraced worsted weight yarns which means we can easily find a good selection of yarn colours and fibre mixes to use with this pattern. [Failing that we always have Aran yarns to fall back on...]

The man's and womans versions are very similar - and similar in chest sizes offered as well. The changes are mainly to the proportion. However, the man's version has a set-in sleeve, while the woman's is more of square almost drop-shoulder - you can see this in the photo. I prefer the set in sleeve and if you are a woman of size 36-40 then it would be quite feasible to knit the man's sweater, adjusting sleeve and overall length to suit.

Instructions for WOMAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 80/86/92 stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/7/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [85/93/101 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 15 inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [69/77/85 sts]

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 21/21/21½ inches, ending after a first row with wrong side facing.

Next row: purl, increasing 9 stitches evenly across the row by working twice into every 7th/8th/9th stitch. [78/86/94 sts]

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 24/24/24½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 11/12/13 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 34/38/42 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 40/40/44 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/5/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [45/45/53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th/5th/9th and every following 4th row until there are 83//83/89 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 19 inches down centre.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.
Join shoulder and side seams. Join sleeve seams leaving 1½ inches open at the top: inset sleeves sewing 1½ inches of open sleeve seam along cast cast off stitches of armholes.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and catch down loosely; turn under rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams as before.


Instructions for MAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 90/96/102 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 3/5/7 stitches evenly across on last row. [93/101/109 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 16/16½/16½ inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69/77/85 stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 23 inches down centre, ending after a second row with right side facing.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.
Next row: * k 4/4/5, knit twice into the next stitch; repeat from * to last 4/12/7 stitches; k4/12/7. [82/90/98 sts]
Next row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 25½/26/26 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 8/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 38/42/44 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 46 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 7 stitches evenly across on last row. [53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th//8th/6th row until there are 73/73/77 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 18½/18½/19 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape top, by casting of 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 45/45/51 stitches remain. Work 1 row back, so that the right side is facing again.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 17/17/19 stitches remain.

Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and slip stitch loosely in position; turn under the rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams dry cloth and cool iron as before.

[Editor's note: I imagine the heavy emphasis on the ironing instructions are specific to the original yarn. In general, if using an iron, press only very gently with a cool iron using either a dry or damp cloth as appropriate to the yarn; use the instructions on the ball band if any are given.]

Materials

In Aran or worsted weight yarn.

Woman's version:
10/10/12 x 2oz balls in colour "Dawn Azure".

Man's version:
12/12/13 x 2oz balls in colour "Brown Heather".

A pair each of Nos 4 (6mm), 6 (5mm), and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

17 sts x 22 rows to 4 ins on No 4 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

Woman's version To fit chest: 34/36/38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 24/24/24½ inches.
Sleeve down centre: 19/19/19 inches

Man's version
To fit chest: 36/38/40 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26 inches.
Sleeve seam: 18½/18½/19 inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

Cross2K: knit into the back of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then knit into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

Cross2P: purl into the front of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then purl into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2021

Cotton Mesh Beach Cover-up (and purse)

BeachMeshCoverUp.jpg

Very practical airy cover-up in a sunny colour. These tops are surprisingly effective as shelter from a hot sun. But always remember, they offer screening against scorching but are not man enough against uv - so never forget to use a good sunscreen lotion, and stay in the shade where you can.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes as this is intended an "oversized" top - but, with the specified yarn as written, it measures up to 40 inches. However, you can see from the shape and construction method, it would be easy enough to expand, either by adding stitches or experimenting with a slightly less fine thread.

Mesh Pattern:

Multiple of 3 ch plus 7 ch to turn.
1st row: into 8th chain * work 1 dtr, 2 ch, miss 2 stitches; repeat from * to end.
2nd and following rows: 5 chain to turn, which counts as 1st dtr and 2 chain, * work 1 dtr into dtr of previous row, inserting hook under 3 strands, 2 chain, repeat from * to end.

Back and Front

The beach robe is worked in one piece, beginning at the lower front edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) hook, make 195(204) chain plus another 7 chain to turn, which count as 2 ch of base of 1 st, 1 dtr and 2 ch.
Work in mesh pattern. [66(69) dtr and 2 ch spaces]
[Editor's note: this notation "dtr and 2 ch space" indicates that you have that many "holes" in the mesh, each set of 3 chain make one "hole" plus 1 as part of the turning chains.]

Work straight.
When work measures 17 inches, on this row, add 30(33) chain plus 7 ch to turn, for the sleeves.
Leave these stitches and this end of the word for a moment - do not break yarn.
At the other end of the row, using another ball of the yarn, work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the row and than make 33(36) chain. Break yarn.
Return to other stitches and yarn at the other side of the piece, then work 1 dtr into the 8th chain, 2ch, work 10(11) dtr plus 2ch spaces as for foundation row of mesh pattern, continue across 66(69) dtr of main piece, then work 11(12) dtr across chain stitches.
[88(93) dtr and 2 ch spaces].

When work measures 26¾(27¼) inches, using 1 strand of yarn from a separate ball of yarn, make front neck opening.
Work 1 slst into the 24th(26th) dtr, counting from the sleeve edge, work 122 ch, miss 40(41) dtr, 1 slst into 24th(26th) dtr from the other end of the work .
Break yarn.

Now work in mesh pattern across (88(92) dtr and 2 ch spaces.

When work measures 9¾(10¼) inches from neck opening, leave 11(12) dtr unworked at each end of the row.
Work on 66(68) dtr at the centre of work.
When work measures 17 inches from under arm, work 10 rows in dc.
Fasten off.

Work a border of 10 rows in dc at the lower edge of the front and also and around the sleeves.
Work a border of 10 rows in dc along each side of the neck, opening, decreasing 1 dc at each end of every row.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Stitch side and under arm seams.
Close neck borders by stitching together at the sides..


A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Fil d'Ecosse No 8, now discontinued but sometimes seen on eBay. This is quite a fine 100% cotton thread probably equivalent to a 3ply weight in wool. (Make sure you look for "No 8" cotton - there were other weights for this yarn - the higher the number the thicker the thread).
When substituting, compare the specified gauge and yardage per 50g to get a good match. You can search for "thread yarns", cottons for weaving, and cotton supplied on cones, as well as suitable fine knitting cottons..

At the current time of writing: Laughing Hens, Love Crafts, Yeoman Yarns, Yarnoncone

Materials

No 8 crochet cotton.
5 balls, each with a yardage of 285 metres.

No 14 (2mm) crochet hook.

For the purse: 25g No 8 crochet cotton.
1 button

Tension

13 dtrs x 10½ rows to 4 ins over mesh pattern using 2mm hook.
[39sts to 4inches in knitted stocking stitch]

Size matters

To fit size 10-12 (14); actual measurement: 40 (42) inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook
dtr: double treble: Pass wool twice round hook, insert hook into st, pull 1 loop through, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through remaining 2 loops.
slst: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BeachMeshCoverUpDiagram.jpg

Neck Purse

Back and Flap:
Begin this first sections the with flap edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) crochet hook, make 15 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, then continue in dc to end[15 dc].
1st row: 2 dc into 1st dc, 13 dc, 2 dc into last dc.
2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th rows:Work 2 dc into first and last dc.
5th, 7th, and 9th rows:Work straight
[29 dc]
11th row: Work a buttonhole at centre of work: work 13 dc, 3 ch, miss 3 sts, 13 dc.

Work straight until 58th row has been completed.
Decrease 1 dc at each end of the row, by missing 1st dc and last but one dc, on 59th, 61st, 63rd, 65th, 66th, 67th and 68th rows.
Fasten off.

Make a second section for the Front:
Make 29 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 29 dc across row for 23 rows. Decrease at each end of the row (by missing 1 st st and last but one st) on the 24th, 26th, 28th, 30th, 31st, 32nd and 33rd rows.
Fasten off.

Borders:
Rejoin yarn at the 33rd row of the beginning of the first (back and flap) section.
Work slst all the way round, working as follows:
Into the straight sections: * 1 slst into each row end 3 times, miss 1 row end, repeat from *.
Into curved sections: work 1 slst into each row end,
At the ends: work 1 slst into each dc.

1st row: On wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness
of the chain formed by the slst row.
Work a 2nd row, inserting hook into both dc of 1st row and into one thread from the edge of work. (This ensures that work lies flat and does not curl up.) This is to be worked across the top edge of flap only.

On front section of purse, work the row of slst then on wrong side of work, 1 row in dc.
Join the 2 sections with 1 row of slst.
Sew on button.
Make a cord by twisting 12 strands of wool, about 3¼ yards long. [The finished cord should measure about 34 inches].

June 2021

Cotton Tee

CottonTee.jpg

Just a really simple striped crochet tee - but I love this top - my weakness for anything seaside related and in these lovely summer colours. Can't you feel that light summer breeze and hear the water softly lapping against the side of your yacht?

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is a simple enough basic pattern - however, the pattern assumes you understand how crochet works with little or no instruction on increasing and descreasing or other techniques, so please ensure you are comfortable with the instructions before starting. I am happy to help if you need to contact me.]

Back

Using 3mm hook and white, make 120/124/128/132 chain, plus 1 ch to turn.
Work in striped dc (2 rows in each colour), working a row of holes on the second row in white as follows:
1st and 3rd sizes: 3 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.
2nd and 4th sizes: 1 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.

From the 26th row, decrease 1 stitch - by missing the first and last dc - at each end of every 12th row 7 times.
[106/110/104/118 dc]
[Editor's Note: As you can see in the diagram at the end, the top is wider at the bottom and tapers slightly up to the armhole. The eyelets at the bottom are designed so that it can gathered at the hip (not obvious in the photo). If you want a straight tee, you can start here with 106/110/104/118 dc, omit the eyelet row, and work straight in striped dc up to the armholes]

Continue until work measures 17 inches.

Shape armholes:
Decrease 5 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 6/6/7/8 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of every alternate row 2/3/3/3 times.
[80/82/84/86 dc]

When work measures 21½ inches, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row, then increase again when work measure 22¾ inches.

When work measure 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, shape shoulder by decreasing at each end of every row as follows: (the first decrease should be on the second row of the blue colour)

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/3 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 3/3/1/1 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/1 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.

This leaves 17/17/18/19 dc. Fasten Off.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 21/21/21¼/21¼ inches, after completing 2 rows in blue colour. Shape the neck by leaving the centre 16/18/18/18 dc unworked. Work on one side only, and decrease at the neck edge:
Decrease 2 dc at the neck edge of the next 2 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 4 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * twice more.

When work measures 21½ inches and 22¾, increase 1 dc at the armhole edge as you did on the Back.

When work measures 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, on the second row of the blue colour, shape shoulder as for one side of the Back.

Then work the other side of the neck to match, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using 3mm hook and white, make 70/72/74/76 chain, plus 1 ch to turn, and work 6 rows in dc.

The continue with striped dc beginning with the blue colour.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row 4 times.
[78/80/82/84 dc]

When work measures 5¾/6/6/ inches, shape armhole:

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3/4/5/5 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * 4 times more.

Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 4 rows.
Then decrease 2 dc at each end of the next 2 rows.

Fasten off.

Front neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 17/17/18/19 sl st across one shoulder, then 58/61/61/61 sl st around neck, then 17/17/18/19 sl st across other shoulder.
Turn, and on wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row, working 3 dc into the dc on the corner of the shoulder and the neck on both sides, to ease round the corner.

Crochet straight on the next 2 rows, then on the 4th row, work 13/13/14/15 dc, * 2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc, repeat from * 3 times more, (again easing round the corner). Work in the same way on the corner at the other side.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Back neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 1 row in sl st over each dc.
Then work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row.
On the 4th row, decrease 6 dc evenly over the dc on the back neck.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Making Up

Cross front shoulder borders over back.
Stitch shoulders for 2¾ to 3¼ inches.
Stitch side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.
Make a thin cord in white colour then thread through row of holes and tie at hips.

Materials

Cotton yarn equivalent to 3 or 4ply yarn weight.
4/5/5/5 balls yarn in blue, plus,
5/5/6/6 balls in white.
Editor's note: Ball weight is assumed to be 50g.

3mm crochet hook

Tension

23½ dc and 28 rows to 4 inches using 3mm hook

Size matters

10 / 12 / 14 / 16
[33 / 35 / 37 / 39 inch chest]

Approximate actual measurement: 36/38/40/42 inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
Striped dc: * 2 rows white, 2 rows blue, repeat from *

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is not one with which I am familiar and I can find no external references to it. Hence I have little idea of the thickness or yardage. Making some assumptions, based on the description, tension, and the other crochet tops, it should be a cotton blend, probably a 4 ply equivalent, with possibly around 130m to 50g. Needless to say - check the tension with a swatch, and don't skimp when purchasing the yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

CottonTeeDiagram-body.jpg

CottonTeeDiagram-sleeve.jpg

May 2021

Whitsun Holiday Hat

HolidayHat1.jpg

Knitting and crochet combine in this eye-catching candy floss striped hat which can be quickly put together in double knitting weight yarn.

This hat was designed for smart summer holidays (in the UK) in the 1950s, though it's hard to imagine wearing a woolly hat in the summer these days (even in the UK) - which is more a comment on fashion than global warming. However - easy to adapt the colour scheme for autumn and winter days.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is knitted in a fancy striped stitch (which is easier to do than to describe - see below); the top of the crown and brim are in simple double crochet.

Crown

Begin with the striped part: with pink wool, on No 10 needles, cast on 33 stitches and work in pattern thus:

1st row: k1, * insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle twice as before. [32 sts].
Leave pink hanging.
Join in white.
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop
together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice round needle.

Next row: As 3rd in white.
Leave white hanging.

3rd row forms pattern and this row is now repeated throughout, working two rows in each shade, ie your next 2 rows will be in pink
and the following 2 rows in white.

Continue thus until you have 26 pink stripes.

Next 2 rows: in white.

Cast off in white as follows:
Knit the first loop instead of dropping it, * knit together the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way; repeat from * until all stitches have been cast off; fasten off.
Join short sides together on wrong side.

With No 8 hook and white wool, make 3 chain, join into a ring with a
slip stitch. Work 2 dc in each chain. [6 dc]
Mark start of each new round with a pin to check increasings.

1st round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [12 dc]
2nd round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd round: * 2 dc in 2 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th round: * 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [30 dc]
5th round: * 4 dc in 4 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [36 dc]
6th round: * 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [42 dc] Continue thus, working 1 dc more between the increasings on every round until you have worked the round:
* 12 dc in 12 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [84 dc]

Fasten off.

Brim:

With white wool and No 5 hook, make 101 chain fairly loosely. Join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: * 1 dc in 1 chain; repeat from * all round.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc.

Next round: * 1 dc in 1 dc but going through the back loop only of each dc; repeat from * to end.
This forms edge of brim.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc, going through both loops in the usual way.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Press top of crown only.
Fold brim in half and press.
Pin centre of crown in position to striped part, gathering striped part to fit. Sew firmly in position on wrong side with a row of back stitching about ¼ inch below edge.
Fit brim over edge of crown, so that edge of crown goes right to fold; slip-hem neatly on both sides.
Give the three thicknesses of the brim a good press with a hot iron but only a slightly damp cloth.

Don hat with best frock and cotton gloves, and go for a promenade on the sea front.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 2oz white, and 1oz almond pink.

A pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

A No 5 (5½mm) crochet hook and a No 8 (4mm) hook.

Tension

26 sts to 4 inches over striped pattern on No 10 (3½mm) needles;
16 dc to 4 inches on No 5 (5½mm) hook; 22 dc to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) hook.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2021

Made for Each Other - sweater or slipover for Spring

MadeForEachOther.jpg

Sweater in Spring colours with sleeveless option suitable for the changing season.
Currently for me, the appeal of this combination is the yellow and grey colour scheme in which they have illustrated it - although I would be disinclined to set it off with a bright all-yellow ensemble, and would probably use a more muted shade of yellow.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets up to a 40 inch chest. The design is intended for women or men (albeit men of presumably modest proportions).

Back

With No 11 needles, and main shade (M) cast on 108 (118 : 126) stitches, and work 5 inches in k2/p2 rib, beginning the second row "p2" for second and third sizes, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row for all sizes.
[109 (119 : 127) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work Fair-Isle from Chart thus:

For 1st and 3rd sizes, repeat the 18 stitches between the red lines to the last the last stitch then work the 1st stitch beyond the line.

For 2nd size, work 5 stitches before the red line, then repeat the 18
stitches between the red lines to the last 6 stitches, then work 6 stitches beyond the red line.

Continue until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves, or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the sleeveless slipover, ending with a
wrong-side row.

Armholes shaping:

Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 77 (85 : 91) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and then 5 (7 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off 37 (41 : 43) stitches.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 11 (11¾ : 12) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 12 (12¾ : 13½) inches for the slipover.

Front shaping:
Next row: pattern 54 (59 : 63) stitches; turn.

Continue on these stitches only.

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and ever following 4th row until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the slipover, ending at the side edge.

Armholes shaping:
Still decreasing at the centre front edge on every 4th row as before, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows.

Continue with centre front edge shaping until until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches, ending at the side edge.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row. Cast off 5 (7 : 9) stitches and break yarn.

With right side facing, slip the centre front stitch on to a safety pin.
Join yarn to inner edge of the the remaining stitches and complete the other side of the front to match, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 56 (66 : 74) stitches and work 3½ inches in k2/p2 rib, as for the Back,and decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the last row for all sizes.
[55 (65 : 73) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and working from the Chart as for the Back, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 10th row until there are 75 (83 : 89),stitches.
Continue straight until work measures 17 (17½ : 18) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

To shape the top cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 43 (49 : 53) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 (8 : 10) rows.
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Neckband:

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches down left side of neck, increase in the stitch from the safety pin, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches up right side of neck, and then knit 36 (40 : 44) stitches from the Back neck.

1st row wrong side facing): * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.

Decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front 2 stitches on every row, rib 9 more rows as set.
Cast off ribwise.

Join left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armbands for Slipover:

With right side facing, using No 11 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 118 (130 : 142) stitches round each armhole.
Work 9 rows in k2, p2 rib beginning the second row "p2".

Cast off ribwise.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Sweater with sleeves: Set in sleeves. Join side and sleeve seams.
Slipover: Join side and armband seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn in 25g balls:
Sweater:
9 (11 : 12) main colour (charcoal);
7 (7 : 8) in white;
5 balls in light grey for all sizes.
Slipover:
7 (8 : 11) main colour (white);
5 in contrast charcoal all sizes;
3 (3 : 4) in contrast yellow.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (37 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 21 (22½ : 24) inches; sleeve seam: 17 (17½ : 18) inches.

Abbreviations

increase: increase 1 stitch by knitting twice into the next stitch.

decrease: decrease 1 stitch by knitting two stitches together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Robin Vogue DK which was 90% wool. It appeared as both 25g and 1 oz balls depending on the era, and may have been pure wool at one time.

Some information indicates a yardage of 112m for 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.

MadeForEachOtherChart.gif

February 2021

Spring Outlook

SpringOutlook

Man's sweater with a textured pattern, made in two colours intended to blend with each other. The overall tweedy look makes this colour scheme look a little autumnal - perhaps the acid green combined with grey or a different shade of green might be more redolent of Spring.
I think the cropping of the picture is an illustration of "never let knitting get in the way of a good photo".

Instructions.

Sweater is worked in stripes of the two colours using a textured moss stitch. Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike

With No 9 needles and main shade (M), cast on 104/108/112 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7/9/11 stitches evenly across the last row.
[111 / 117 / 123 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and work in pattern as follows:
Do not break off colour M, and join in contrast (C).
1st row, using C (right side facing): Knit in contrast colour (C).
2nd row, using C: Knit in C.
Do not break off C, but pick up M again.
3rd row, using M: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row, using M: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Do not break off M, but pick up C again ready for the next row.

These 4 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in the pattern until work measures 16 inches, ending with the second row of the pattern.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 91 / 95 / 99 stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25 / 25½ / 25½ inches, ending with 4th pattern row.
Break off contrast C.

With right side facing continue in M and shape neck:
Next row: Rib 29 / 30 / 31, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Rib to end
Next row: Rib 27 / 28 / 29, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Next row: Cast off 7 / 8 / 9 in rib, rib to last 2 stitches, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Next row: Cast off 8 / 8 / 8 in rib, rib to last 2 stitches, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Cast off remaining 8 / 8 / 8 stitches in rib.

With right side facing, slip the centre 33 / 35 / 37 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Rejoin M wool to last 29 / 30 / 31 stitches, rib to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 / 52 / 52 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across the last row.
[50 / 59 / 59 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in C and continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 8th row until there are 79 / 83 / 83 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Continue straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 18½ / 18½ / 19 inches, ending with 2nd pattern row.

With right side facing, keeping pattern correct, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 37 / 39 / 39 stitches remain.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 21 / 21 / 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck Ribbing - back and front alike.

With No 9 needles, main shade M, and right side facing, start at shoulder edge and pick up and knit, 8 / 8 / 8 stitches down side of neck, rib 33 / 35 / 37 stitches from spare needle or stitch holder, pick up and knit 8 / 8 / 8 stitches up other side of neck.
[49 / 51 / 53 sts]

Work 3 rows in rib over all stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row.

Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.
Join neck with a flat seam.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press all seams.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
16/17/18 x 1oz balls in darker main shade(M);
12/13/13 oz in contrast "cool lime"(C).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 9 (3¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Spare needle or stitch holder.

Tension

20sts and 25 rows to four inches on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
37-38/39-40/41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26 inches;
sleeve seam:
18½/18½/19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
M: main dark colour
C: contrast lighter colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Flair - one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never caught on so much in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight . As usual no clues as to the yardage, but it was 60% wool, 40% courtelle (acrylic).

Note that later on Patons made "Flair DK" in 20g balls and with a slightly different wool blend.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SpringOutlook-detail

January 2021

Fuller figure twinset

FullerFigureTwinset.jpg

"Fuller figure" shown off on a suitably matronly figure for the post-rationing 1950s - but actually means a pleasing pattern in a reasonable size range for this century.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 6 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Jumper Back


With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 116 (122 : 128 : 132 : 138 : 148) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1, p1, rib, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5, repeat from * to last 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8) stitches, work twice into next the stitch, rib 3 (6 : 9 : 5 : 8 : 7).
[135 (141 : 147 : 153 : 159 : 171) sts]

Change to size 8 (4mm) needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p3, * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows once, then the 1st row once.

6th row: * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch.
7th row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice.
12th row: As 2nd row.
These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 59 (65 : 71 : 75 : 81 : 91) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches remain.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder

Jumper Front

Follow the instructions for the Back from to until 69 (73 : 77 : 79 : 83 : 93) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:

1st size only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 24 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 13 stitches remain.

Keeping the neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes only
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (25 : 26 : 27 : - : -) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until - (17 : 21 : 25 : - : -) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 13 stitches remain. Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

5th and 6th sizes only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (- : - : - : 28 : 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until - (- : - : - : 13 : 16) stitches remain. Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

All sizes:
Slip the centre 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches onto a spare needle. Join in wool at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Short Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 80 (86 : 86 : 92 : 92 : 98) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for ¾ of an inch, ending with a wrong side row and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and work in pattern as given for the Back until the work measures 3 (3 : : : : ) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 57 (67 : 65 : 71 : 69 : 73) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 9 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open.
With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, knit across the 9 stitches at the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches at the centre front; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 9 stitches on the top of the Right Sleeve, and knit the 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches from the back neck.
[108 (112 : 116 : 116 : 120 : 126) sts]

Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cardigan Back

Follow the instructions exactly as for the Jumper, but on completion cast off the stitches at the back neck.

Cardigan Left Front

Using size 10 needles, cast on 60 (60 : 66 : 66 : 70 : 76) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 6 : 6 : 5 : 5), repeat from * to last 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 4 : 4 : 4 : 7).
[ 69 (69 : 75 : 75 : 81 : 87) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and pattern as given for Back until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches, from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armhole and Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th (5th : 4th : 5th : 4th : 4th) row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until 13 (17 : 19 : 22 : 24 : 29) stitches remain.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sizes only:
Still decreasing at the neck edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until - (8 : 9 : 7 : 9 : 9) stitches remain.

All sizes:
Keeping neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

Cardigan Right Front

Follow the instructions exactly as for Left Front, reversing all shapings.

Cardigan Long Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 58 (60 : 60 : 62 : 62 : 64) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 4 (5 : 5 : 3 : 3 : 4), repeat from * to last 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7) stitches, work twice into the next stitch, rib 3 (5 : 5 : 6 : 6 : 6).
[ 69 (69 : 69 : 75 : 75 : 75) sts].

Change to size 8 needles and pattern.
Increase, and work into the pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 16th (10th : 10th : 11th : 11th : 8th) row until there are 81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Follow instructions for Sleeves of Jumper from to .
Cast off.

Cardigan Front Bands

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for ½ (½ : ½ : ¾ : ¾ : ½) of an inch.
1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib, casting on 3 stitches over the cast off stitches in the previous row.
Work 4 more buttonholes at intervals of 2½ ( : : : : ) inches, measured from base of previous buttonhole.
Continue in rib until Band is long enough, slightly stretched, to fit up Right Front, across sleeve tops, back neck and down Left Front.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Jumper
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Sew zip into left back raglan seam, then join remainder of seam.

Cardigan
Using a back stitch, join raglan, side and sleeve seams.
Sew on Front Band. Neaten buttonholes and sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting
Jumper:
18 (19 : 20 : 21 : 23 : 25) x 25g balls
Cardigan:
24 (26 : 27 : 29 : 30 : 32) x 25g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles

4 inch (10 cm) zip fastener for back neck of jumper

5 buttons for cardigan

Tension

26 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern

Size matters

To fit chest 40 (42 : 44 : 46 : 48 : 50) inches - actual measurements are 1½-2 inches larger;
length from top of shoulders: 22 (22¼ : 23 : 23¼ : 24 : 24½) inches;
short sleeve seam:
3 (3 : : : : ) inches;
long sleeve seam:
16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn Emu Superwash Double Knitting. This is a standard pure wool double knitting which was also available in 50g balls measuring 130 yards (119 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2020

Nordic Slipover

NordicSlipover3.jpg

A cute seasonal sleeveless sweater.
Co-incidentally I see that Wardrobe Icons have featured "knitted vests" as an "unexpected hero" this week, having "fallen in love with how versatile it is as a layering piece". They illustrate it with 3 shapes including fair-isle patterns with a closer fit and plain with a relaxed fit.
You could replace the Nordic style pattern given here with any fair-isle pattern of your choosing, just repeating it across the width of the sweater, making sure to centre the pattern - for example the Shetland Folklore pattern which is worked over a 10 stitch repeat.
I have a "relaxed fit" example in polka dots, which could easily be knitted plain.

Instructions

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
Work from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 106 [114, 120, 128] stitches and work in K1/P1 for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 1 [5, 4, 4] * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 1 [5, 4, 4] stitches, m1, rib 1 [5, 4, 4].
(133 [141, 149, 159] sts).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work in pattern from the chart, joining in and breaking off colours as required, working the first 4 [1, 5, 3] and last 3 [0, 4, 2] stitches on knit rows, and the first 3 [0, 4, 2], and the last 4 [1, 5, 3] stitches on purl row as indicated, and working the 14 stitch repeat pattern 9 [10, 19, 11] times across in between.

Continue until back measures 14½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.

**

Shape Armholes:
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, then at each end of every alternate row until 95 [99, 105, 109] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until back measures 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 9 [8, 10, 9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
(45 [47, 49, 51] sts).

Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back up to **.

Shape Armholes and Neck:

Next row: keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches, and pattern until 60 [64, 68, 73] stitches are on the right hand needle; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on first set of stitches only.
Work one row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, and then on every alternate row, at the same time, decrease 1 stitches at the neck edge on the next row, and every alternate row until 38 [39, 41, 42] stitches remain.

Then continue to decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every alternate row until 32 [34, 37, 39] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every following 3rd row until 25 [26, 28, 29] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until front matches back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
(9 [8, 10, 9] sts).

Work one row, and then cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 66 [70, 74, 79], and pattern to end.

Work to match the first side, reversing the shaping.

Making Up

Press lightly using a cool iron and dry cloth - or as instructed on the ball band - omitting the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches down left neck, knit stitch from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread), pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches up right neck, then knit 45 [47, 49, 51] stitches from Back, decreasing 3 stitches evenly.
(187 [197, 203, 213] sts).

1st row wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.

2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl, k1; ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Cast off evenly in rib, decreasing at marked stitch as before.
Join left shoulder and neckband.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 118 [124, 132, 138], stitches round each armhole.

Work in k1/p1 rib for 9 rows.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4 ply in each of the three colours (all sizes).

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 32 rows to 4 ins (10cm) measured over pattern using 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches;
length: 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

p2togtbl: purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Clansman 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2020

Footnote - Argyll Socks

ArgyllSocks.jpg

Socks created in two colours with the fair isle technique. Less common these days, now that we can create such exciting coloured socks with self-patterning yarns. Nonetheless quite satisfying since space dyed skeins cannot produce this lovely traditional Argyll pattern.

Instructions.

Each sock is worked in three (attached) sections - leg, upper foot, and lower foot - and mostly using only 2 needles, but these needles need to be double points (that is, pointed at both ends).
Note: When working from chart, carry the yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep the fabric elastic.

Leg and instep

Starting at the top leg, using 2 needles and Main Shade (MS), cast on 78 stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 4 inches, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row : 77 stitches.

Start with a knit row, working in stocking stitch in pattern from chart, joining in Contrast (C), reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right, until 75 rows have been worked.

Next row: pattern 18, increase in the next stitch, pattern to last 19 stitches, increase in the next stitch, pattern to end : 79 stitches.
Break yarns.

Slip first and last 20 stitches on spare needles for heel.
Rejoin yarns where required and continue on the centre 39 stitches for the instep, working in pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right, until 76 rows have been worked.
Break C.

Continue in MS and stocking stitch (1 row knit one row purl), starting with a knit row, until foot is required length, allowing 2½ inches for toe shaping and ending with a purl row. Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Heel and sole:

Slip the 2 groups of 20 stitches on to one needle....
[Editor's note: Here you are joining the sock into its circular shape by folding in the edges to work the heel and sole - thus the stitches are arranged with the edges of the work meeting in the middle of your needle. You are continuing to work on two needles.]
...and with right side facing and MS, work as follows:

1st row: k19, k2tog, k19.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, * sl1 purlwise, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: purl.
Rep 3rd and 4th rows for 2½ inches, ending with a 3rd row.

Turn heel as follows:
1st row: k1, p19, p2tog, p1, turn.
2nd row: k3, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.
3rd row: p4, p2tog, p1, turn.
4th row:
k5, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.
5th row: p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
6th row: k7, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.

Continue in this way until all the stitches have been worked : 21 stitches.

Next row: p21 stitches, then pick up and purl 18 stitches down side of heel piece, turn.
Next row: k39 stitches, then pick up and knit 18 stitches down other side of heel: 57 stitches.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 35 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work matches the patterned instep piece, ending with a purl row.

Toe:

Next row: k18 and now (finally) arrange the stitches on 3 needles for working the toe in the round as follows:
1st needle: k17 under foot stitches;
2nd needle: k39 instep stitches
3rd needle: knit remaining 18 underfoot stitches.
Slip the 1st from each end of the 2nd needle on to the end of the 1st and the beginning of the 3rd needle: 18/37/19 stitches.

Work in rounds shape toe as follows:
1st round:
1st needle:
knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1;
2nd needle:
k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1;
3rd needle:
k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds until 22 stitches remain.
Knit the stitches from the 1st needle on to the 3rd needle and graft or cast off stitches from two needles together.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.

Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 3 ply yarn in main shade and 1 in lighter contrast.

Set of four No 13 (2¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.
[Editor's note: The instructions assume you will work 78 sts on 2 of your DPNs so you need to ensure they are long enough, or use 2 extra DPNs that are.]

Tension

36 sts x 44 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Length from top to base of heel: 13½ inches (34 cm);
length of foot: 10½ inches (27cm).

Abbreviations

MS is main shade (Lovat Heather).
C
is contrast (white).

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was Patons Nylox 3ply in colours Lovat Heather (2002) and Snow White (504).

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2020

Robin Hood and Maid Marion

BeltedSweaters.jpg

Long-line sweaters with belts at hip level. Very up-to-the-minute sixties styling - but somehow I feel they should have been shown in Lincoln Green - no?

Instructions

The main body of the sweater is knitted in "rice stitch" which is knitting a kind of sparse moss or seed stitch with some of the knit stitches on the right side worked into the back of the stitch.

Back:


Using size 10 needles, cast on 115 (119, 123, 131, 139, 143, 147) stitches.
1st row
: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more.

Change to size 8 needles and pattern:
1st row (Right side facing): [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, k9, p2 * ; [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl; repeat from * to * once; [k1tbl, p1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

2nd row: k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k17, p9; k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20).

3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from *to * once, [k1tbl, p 1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row
: As 1st row.
6th row
: As 2nd row.

7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from * to * once, [k1tbl, p1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

8th row: As 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures approximately 5 inches from the beginning, ending with the 8th pattern row.

Make Slots for Belt:

Next row: Pattern 6 (6, 8, 12, 16, 16, 18) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 25 (29, 29, 29, 29, 33, 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining 6 (6, 8, 12, 16, 16, 18) stitches, work to end.
Work 8 rows on these stitches.

Next row: Work in pattern across all stitches.

Continue in pattern until work measures approximately 15 (15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16½, 16½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row. Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread to facilitate easier working when joining raglan seams.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, work as follows:

1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 7th sizes only.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and 3 (3, 3, 3, -, -, 1) following 4th rows. 107 (111, 115, 125, -, -, 143) remaining.

All sizes .

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 55 (57, 57, 59, 59, 61, 63) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread.

Shape Shoulder Sections:
Cast off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 31 (33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 39) stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Follow instructions as for the Back from to , until 79 (81, 81, 85, 87, 89, 91 ) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape one side of the Neck:
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern 29 (29, 29, 30, 31, 32, 32) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 16 (16, 16, 17, 18, 17, 17) stitches remain.
Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at armhole edge as before until 12 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. Mark end of last row with a coloured thread.
Shape Shoulder by casting off the remaining 12 stitches.

Shape other side of the Neck:
Slip the centre 17 (19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in yarn at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Complete to match first side of neck.

Sleeves:

Using size 10 needles, cast on 53 (53, 57, 57, 61, 61, 61) stitches.

Using size 10 needles, cast on 115 (119, 123, 131, 139, 143, 147) stitches.
1st row
: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more.

Change to size 8 needles and pattern:
1st row (Right side facing): [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

2nd row: k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26).

3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row
: As 1st row.
6th row
: As 2nd row.

7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

8th row: As 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Increase and work into pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (9th, 9th, 8th, 8th, 7th, 6th) row until there are 73 (77, 81, 85, 89, 93, 97) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until! work measures 16 (16½, 16½, 17, 17, 17½, 17½) inches for her and 17 (17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches for him from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.
Mark each end of last row with a coloured thread.

Shape Raglan Top:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and 3 (2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1) following 4th rows. 65 (71, 75, 79, 83, 89, 93) stitches remaining.

Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 13 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Mark each end of last row with a coloured thread.
Work a further 2 inches, ending with a wrong side row. Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Neckband

With right side of work facing and using size 8 needles, knit across the 13 stitches on top of Left Sleeve, pick up and k20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) stitches down left side of neck, knit across the 17 (19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) stitches at centre, pick up and k20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 13 stitches on top of Right Sleeve and the 31 (33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 39) stitches on back neck: 114 (118, 122, 126, 130, 132, 136) stitches.
Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Change to size 10 needles and work ½ inch.
Change to size 8 needles and work 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Belt

Using size 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches.

1st row (Right side facing): * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1 , repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for 36 (36, 38, 38, 40, 40, 42) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 3 stitches remain. Knit 3 together and fasten off.

To Make Up

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, shoulder sections and neckband, matching coloured threads on raglan to coloured threads on sleeve top.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neckband in half onto wrong side and slip stitch down.
Sew buckle to straight edge of Belt.
Thread Belt through Slots.

Press seams lightly under a damp cloth.

Materials

23 (24, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31) x 25g balls double knitting wool.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Buckle for belt.

Tension

24sts x 34 rows to 4 ins measured over rice stitch.

Size matters

Actual chest measurement: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44 46) inches Length to centre back neck: 23 (23¾, 24¼, 25¼, 25¾, 26½, 27) ins Her sleeve seam: 16 (16½, 16½, 17, 17, 17½, 17½) inches
His sleeve seam: 17 (17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches

Abbreviations

k1tbl: knit through the back of the stitch.
sl3f: slip next 3 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work
sl3b:
slip next 3 sts on to cable needle and leave at back of work

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool superwash yarn.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2020

Camisole party frock

PartyDress.jpg

A very pretty strappy knitted dress which is styled for the summer, but, as usual, would work well for the winter, perhaps with a sparkly yarn, and worn with a bolero, tippet, or stole - if we are ever allowed to go out in public any time soon....

Instructions

The pattern panel for the dress is worked over 5 stitches as follows:

1st row: yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1.
4th row: purl.

Back

**
Using No 7 (4½mm) needles, cast on 135 stitches and knit one row.

Work in Pattern A as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 5 times, k3, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, k3; repeat from * to last 11 stitches; (yfwd, k2togtbl) 5 times, k1.

2nd row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1

3rd row: k2, * (k2tog, yfwd) 5 times, k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 5 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

4th row: as 2nd.

These 4 rows form Pattern A.

Repeat them until back measures 15 inches, ending with 4th pattern row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k1, (k2tog) twice, (yfwd, k2tog) 3 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, sl1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, sl1, k2tog, psso repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k2togtbl, k1. [111 sts]

Continue in Pattern B as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

2nd row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, k3, *(yfwd. k2togtbl) 3 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3; repeat from * to last 9 stitches, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k1.

3rd row: as 1st row.

4th row: k2, * (k2tog. yfwd) 4 times. k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 4 rows form Pattern B.

Repeat them until back measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k1, (k2tog) twice, (yfwd, k2tog) twice, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, sl1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last 9 stitches , (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k2togtbl, k1. [87 sts]

Continue in Pattern C as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

2nd row: k1, (k2tog , yfwd) 3 times, k3, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) twice, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k3; repeat from * to last 7 stitches; (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k1

3rd row: as 1st row.

4th row: k2, * (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 4 rows form Pattern C.

Repeat them until back measures 22 inches.

Place a marker at each end of last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in Pattern C until back measures 4 inches from markers, ending with right side facing.

Next row: cast off 21, k8 (this includes the stitch on the needle from casting off), slip these 8 stitches on a safety-pin, cast off 29, k8, slip these 8 stitches on a safety-pin, cast off remaining 21 stitches.

Work shoulder strap as follows:
With wrong side facing and No 10 needles, rejoin yarn to 8 stitches on safety-pin and work in stocking-stitch, starting with a p. row, until strap measures 16 inches. Cast off.
Work 2nd strap in the same way.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.

Next row: cast off 44, place a marker in the last of these stitches, cast off remaining stitches.

Join side seams of skirt.

Bodice

With No. 10 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work in rib as follows:

Next row: k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

This row forms rib pattern. Repeat it until strip, when slightly stretched, fits along upper edge of skirt from outer side of shoulder straps to marker at centre front.
Place a marker in "k3." edge of strip.
Rib 4 more rows.
Place a 2nd marker in opposite end.

Now continue in rib until length from 2nd marker matches length from cast-on edge to 1 st marker.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Starting at outer side of shoulder strap, sew first half of bodice strip in position, first marker matching centre marker of front.
Now fold under upper edge of strip, bringing 2nd marker also to centre marker of front, thus twisting the strip, then sew 2nd half of strip in position, ending at outer edge of other strap (thus leaving back edge between straps free).
Sew side edges Of bodice strips to approximately 4 inches of shoulder straps, then sew straps to front. Face straps with ribbon on wrong side
[Editor's Note: The bodice only goes around the front of the dress; it might be easier to see how you are intended to sew it to the straps if you look at the picture of the back of the dress below.]

Cut lining the full width of skirt but 2 inches longer than skirt when lying flat. Allow ½ inches for seams and 1 inch for hem.
Join side seams, then catch top of lining in position all round top of skirt.

Pin hem in position, then try dress on before stitching, to be certain lining is the correct length.

Materials

Dress: 6 x 50g balls of a light weight double knitting. (See"a word on the wool").

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1¼ yards (about 1.2m) of 1 inch (2.5cm) wide facing ribbon.

1¾ yards (about 1.6m) of 36 inch (90cm) wide lining material in a matching shade.

Tension

25 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 7 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust 34 - 36 inches. Length (excluding shoulder strap) measured flat is 30 inches. (The dress drops to 32 inches when worn)

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward
sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Kismet which which was 80% acrylic and 20% mohair; it was a fairly light weight yarn, and it was the fluffiness that caused it to knit to something like a DK equivalent (on the right needles).

This pattern emphasises the light weight nature of the yarn with an open-work pattern knitted on large needles.

The other thing to note is that it had an exceptional yardage - about 225m to 50g which is about double that of a normal DK, so you need to take all that into account when considering substituting.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Altering the size

Unusually for this era, we have only the one size - perhaps they think those more well-endowed would not suit this style - and maybe they are right - certainly I don't think I could make it work for me.
However, if you did want to make it larger, I really think the only option is to work out the repeats in the pattern and add some extra width in the skirt - then knit the bodice section (it's knitted sideways) longer, and workout where to reposition the straps.
On top of that, if were knitting this, I would try using a delicate lace-weight yarn (there are some lovely ones around), swatching the pattern, and experimenting with different needles to get the right tension.
But then I never did like an easy life.

PartyDress-back.jpg

I'm putting this photo in to show you the back of the dress, but I can't let it pass without commenting that to me it's very vaguely sleazy - I think "come to bed eyes" would be the description. It's almost as if the photographer were more used to using his skills for a different kind of audience altogether...

June 2020

Crochet a Cardi

CrochetCardi.jpg

This looks like a very wearable crochet cardigan (for those who prefer crochet to knitting). Bands of two-row stripes in double crochet are arranged to form a flattering chevron down the centre back, giving the illusion of shaping. You could make it in a single shade, or go totally wild as shown in the photo - or you could choose more muted contrasts in naturals, perhaps greys and taupes with ecru. If you choose brights you could be guided more by Kaffe Fassett's favourite combinations, introducing turquoises with fuschia and poppy.

So .... "Make it plain and simple or bright and stunning"

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.
[Editor's Note: The cardigan is made up of a series of narrow crochet strips which are then sewn together lengthways; the colours in the strips are offset from one another to make the chevron pattern, and they are made shorter to make the armholes and sleeve shaping.]

Main Part

1st Band: With 4mm hook and main shade (A) make 8 chain.
Foundation row: —Miss 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch to end. {7 dc}
1st Row: l ch, 1 dc in each dc.
Repeat 1st row for pattern.
Continue in pattern working 2 row stripes of the 5 contrasts (B, C, D, E, F) and main shade (A) until 40 [42 : 44 : 46] stripes are completed, ending with D [F : B : D] stripe; mark this stripe with contrast thread for centre back.
Beginning with C [E : A : C] stripe work sequence in reverse from F to A for 39 [41 : 43 : 45] more stripes, ending with A stripe.
Fasten off.

2nd Band: Make as the 1st band , but beginning and ending with contrast colour B and with centre back stripe of E [A : C : E].
Join to 1st band.

3rd Band: As 1st, but beginning and ending with contrast colour C and with centre back stripe of F [B : D : F].
Join to 2nd band.

Continue in this way, beginning and ending with next stripe of colour sequence, until the 9th band is complete.

Right Front

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour E and work 16 [17 : 18 : 19] stripes. Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Next Band: Begin with A and work 14 [15 : 16 : 17] stripes. Omit one stripe at each end of the previous band; join.

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour C and work 12 [13 : 14 : 15] stripes. Join as previous band.

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour E and work 11 [12 : 13 : 14] stripes. Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Shape shoulders:

Next Band: With A make 7 [8 : 10 : 11] chain. Work the foundation row and the 1st row as you did in the first band. {6 [7 : 9 : 10] dc}.
Work 2 stripes.
* Next Row: l ch, (insert hook in next dc) twice, yrh and draw through 3 loops - decrease worked - 1 dc in each dc to end.

Continue in stripes, decreasing 1 stitch at eh beginning of every 4th row until 2 dc remain. Work 1 row. Fasten off.
Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Back

Reversing stripes at centre as given for main part continue thus:

Next Band: Beginning and ending B [C : D : E] work 35 [37 : 39 : 41] stripes. Omit 5 stripes of 9th band of main part for armhole; join.

Next Band: Beginning and ending D [E : F : A] work 33 [35 : 37 : 39] stripes. Omit 1 stripe at each end of previous band ; join.

Next Band: Beginning and ending F [A : B : C] work 31 [33 : 35 : 37] stripes. Join on as last band.

Next Band: As last but beginning and ending A [B : C : D]; join.

Shape shoulders:

With B [C : D : E] ** make 3 [3 : 5 : 5] chain. Work the foundation row and the 1st row as you did in the first band. {2 [2 : 4 : 4] dc}.

Next Row: l ch, 2 dc in next dc - increase worked - 1 dc in each dc to end.
Continue in stripe pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every 4th row until there are 6 [7 : 9 : 10] dc,
Work 1 row. **
Work 16 [14 : 16 : 14] stripes, reversing stripes after 8th [7th : 8th : 7th] of these stripes. Complete as right front shoulder from *.
Sew on.

Left Front

As right front to shoulder shaping, reversing stripes and shapings, and missing 5 stripes of last band of main part for armhole.

Shape shoulders:

Beginning D [E : F : A], work as shoulder shaping of back from ** to ** . Work 2 [1 : 2 : 1] stripes. Fasten off. Sew on.

Sleeves

1st Band: beginning with A, work as for 1st band of main part, repeating 6 stripes of A, B, C, D, E and F until there are 22 [22 : 24 : 24] stripes.

2nd Band: beginning with B, work as 1st band.
Sew on.

3rd Band: beginning with B, work 24 [24 : 26 : 26] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end sew on to 2nd band.

4th Band: beginning with C, work as for 3rd band. Sew on.

5th Band: beginning with C, work 26 [26 : 28 : 28] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end, sew on.

6th Band: beginning with D, work as for 5th band. Sew on.

7th Band: beginning with D, work 28 [28 : 30 : 30] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end, sew on.

8th Band: beginning with E, work as 7th band. Sew on.

9th Band: beginning with E, work 30 [30 : 32 : 32] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe at each end, sew on.

10th Band: beginning with F, work as 9th band.

Now shape top:
11th Band: beginning with D, work 24 [24 : 26 : 26] stripes. Omitting 3 stripes at each end of previous band and sew on.

12th Band: beginning with F, work 22 [22 : 24 : 24] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end of previous band and sew on.

13th Band: beginning with B, work 20 [20 : 22 : 22] stripes. Sew on as last band.

Making Up

Press work lightly.
Join shoulder and sleeve seams.
Set in Sleeves.

Edging:
Using the 3½mm hook join A to centre back at lower edge.

1st Round: l ch, 1 dc in end of each row or dc around entire outer edge, working 3 dc in the corners; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
2nd Round (make buttonholes): 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to corner; 3 dc in corner dc, 1 dc in 23 dc, (3 ch, miss 2 dc, 1 dc in 10 dc) 4 times, 1 dc in each dc to end, working 3 dc in centre dc of left corner; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
3rd Round: 1 ch, now working in reverse from left to right work 1 dc in each dc and ch; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
Fasten off.

With main shade A work around sleeve edges to match.
Sew on buttons. Press seams.

Materials

5 [6 : 7 : 8] (25 gram) balls double knitting yarn in the main colour, plus,
4 [5 : 6 : 7] balls in each of 5 contrast colours.
[Editor's Note: Crochet works up quickly but does rather eat up the yarn; this cardigan needs a total of up to 24 x 50g balls of DK. The yarn used in the original was an acrylic with a yardage of approximately 150m or 164yards per 50g.]

4mm and 3½mm crochet hooks.

Tension

Pattern strip is 1¾ inches wide and 18 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inches;
length: 23 [23 : 23½ : 23½] inches;
sleeve: 18 inches all sizes.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2020

Chic Criss-Cross Blouse

Criss-Cross.jpg

The criss-cross front on this knitted blouse is a new*, exciting idea. It fits close and snug around the waist, and does up With eight buttons - four at the back of the neck, and four at the waist. The main part is in plain k1/p1 rib, while the bands are in a fancy rib stitch.
* New in the autumn of 1938.
... and being from the 1930s, there is only one set of instructions to fit a modest 34-36 inch chest - however, they do suggest using different needle sizes to make a minor adjustment within that size range.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size only; you can slightly alter the size by using different needles as indicated in the pattern materials.

Front

Start with the belt as follows:
Cast on 27 stitches.

1st row: Slip 1,* slip 1 knitwise, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1 knitwise, k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, *p1 into back of slip stitch, k3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1 into back of slip stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows (which form the pattern) until work measures 13½ inches, then, with right side facing: * work to last 3 stitches, turn, and work back. Work straight across tow rows then repeat from * twice.

Now shape as follows:
1st row: Work 3 stitches, turn, and work back.
3rd row: Work 5 stitches, turn, and work back.
5th row: Work 7 stitches, turn, and work back.
Continue thus, taking 2 more stitches into every alternate row until you work across all stitches.
Work 3 rows straight, then put stitches on a holder.

With right side facing, pick up and knit 46 stitches, commencing 3½ inches in from the holder, and ending 6 inches from beginning of work along upper edge (inside of curve) for right front. [The 6 inch straight piece left should reach to the centre back.]
[Editor's Note: The point I notice most here is that if 6 inches is allowed for on each side reaching round to the centre back, then the implication is that the total waist size is only 24 inches (4 x 6). This is a pretty neat little waist - even for the stated size - so it might be worth checking that the belt reaches round your waist, sitting just above the hips as shown in the picture.]

Work 19 rows in k1/p1 rib over these 46 stitches.
Leave on a spare needle.

Work a second piece to correspond to the first to make the left front, working all shapings at the opposite ends of the needle. (ie: commence picking up stitches with right side facing, 6 inches from commencement, and start the rib with p1).

The two front pieces are now joined together as follows:
Work across the 46 stitches of the left front in k1/p1 rib, then placing the 27 stitches from the first holder (right belt) in front of the work, work across them in fancy rib, and then work across 27 stitches from 2nd holder (left belt) in fancy rib, and then finally, work the remaining 46 stitches from spare needle (right front) in k1/p1 rib.
When joining fancy pieces, work together the last stitch of first piece with first stitch of second piece, and make sure that the right welt lies on top of left. [145 sts].

Now continue over all stitches:
1st row (wrong side facing): (k1, p1) 23 times, work in fancy rib pattern on next 26 stitches, k1, work in pattern on next 26 stitches (p1, k1) 23 times.
2nd row: (p1, k1) 23 times, work in pattern on next 26 stitches, p1, work in pattern on next 26 stitches, (k1, p1) 23 times.
Continue repeating these 2 rows, at the same time increasing 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until there are 165 stitches on the needle (keep increased stitches in k1/p1 rib).

Now work straight until front measures 11 inches, or length required; it is advisable to measure yourself here and make sure that the belt fits snugly round the natural waistline.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work ½ inch straight on these 129 stitches, increasing once in the centre stitch of the last row, and then shape left shoulder.

1st row (right side facing): Rib 38 stitches, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
2nd row: Increase in first stitch, rib to end.
3rd row: Rib.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows until you have 46 stitches; now decrease at the neck edge on every row until 37 stitches remain, then on every alternate row until 23 stitches remain.
Work should now measure 6¾ inches from commencement of armhole shapings.
Shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows at the armhole edge, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch on the 2 alternate rows at the neck edge.

Return to the main work, and complete the right shoulder to correspond.
Then work on the centre panel as follows (right side facing):
Work 27 stitches in pattern, turn, leaving other 27 stitches on a spare needle, and work back.

1st row:Work 3 stitches, turn, and work back.
3rd row: Work 5 stitches, turn, and work back.
5th row: Work 7 stitches, turn, and work back.
Continue thus, taking 2 more stitches into every row until you again work over all stitches.
Work back and then ** work 4 rows straight.
Next row: Work 17 stitches, turn, and work back.
Repeat from ** 3 times.
Now work straight for 10½ inches and cast off.
Work remaining 27 stitches to correspond, reversing all shapings.

Back

Cast on 114 stitches and work 28 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Now increase at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 134 stitches on the needle. Work straight until side seam equals that of front to underarm, then shape armhole by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 4 at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until work measures 4¼ inches from commencement of armhole shapings.
Next row: Rib 42, cast off 14, rib 42, and continue on these last 42 stitches only, leaving remainder on a spare needle.

Shape neck by casting off 2 stitches at the neck edge on the following 5 alternate rows, and then k2tog at this edge on the following 9 alternate rows [23 sts].
Now shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the armhole edge at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch on the 2 alternate rows at the neck edge.
Work the remaining 42 stitches to correspond.

Sleeves

Cast on 91 stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Change to fancy rib as for belt, and increase at each end of the 4th and every following 3rd row until there are 125 stitches on the needle.
With right side facing, shape top by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 29 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press very lightly only with a warm iron under a damp cloth.
Join side, shoulder and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, gathering all fullness to the top of the shoulder.
Take the loose end of the fancy band from the right front, underneath that of the left front, and stitch to the left front edge of the neck round to centre back.
Take the left front band over that of the right front, and stitch to the right front edge of the neck round to centre back.
Stitch bands into position at bottom of front, and also across back, meeting at the centre.
Work a row of double crochet all round neck and bottom edges and both back openings, making 4 button loops for neck fastening and 4 for waist fastening. Sew on buttons to match.

Materials

8 ozs 3 ply.

According to size: Two pairs of No 10 (3¼mm) needles for 34-36 inch chest.
or
Use two pairs of No 11 (3mm) for 33 inch chest.
Or
Use No 9 (3¾mm) for 37 inch chest.

Eight small buttons

One No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm) crochet hook.

Tension

34 sts to 4 inches on No 10 (3¼mm) needles for 34-36 inch chest.
Or
36 sts to 4 inches on No 11 (3mm) for 33 inch chest.
Or
32 sts to 4 inches on No 9 (3¾mm) for 37 inch chest.

Size matters

One size to fit 34-36 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18 inches. Options to slightly decrease or increase the size by using different needles to achieve different tensions.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Super Crêpe.

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Criss-CrossFancyRib.jpg

April 2020

Bunny Slipovers

BunnySlipovers.jpg

Sweet little sleeveless jumpers for toddlers with Easter bunny motifs.

Instructions.

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Twist the yarns on wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

**
With No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 76 [84, 90] stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 [7, 10] (m1, rib 10) 7 times, m1, rib 3 [7, 10]:
84 [92, 98] sts.

Change to No 11 needles and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking-stitch until back measures 1½ [2, 2] inches, ending with right side facing.

Change to No 10 needles and joining in contrast colour (C) as required, work rows 1-20 inclusive from chart A [B, A]

.

Work the first 0 [1, 1] stitch on knit rows and last 0 [1, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated, repeating the 12 [13, 12] pattern stitches 7 [7, 8] times across - and the last 0 [0, 1] stitch on knit rows, and first 0 [0, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Break C.
[Editor's note: The charts are fairly easy to read but these instructions may make them seem more complicated than they are.
If this helps at all - rather than making it worse:
On the first size using chart A you just repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work with no extra stitches at either end (12 x 7 = 84).
On the third size chart A also, you repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at either end to make up the 98 stitches (12 x 8 = 96 plus 2).
On the second size chart B, you repeat the 13 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at one end to make up the 92 stiches (13 x 7 = 91 plus 1).]

Change to No 11 needles and continue in M and stocking stitch until back measures 4½ [5, ]inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 54 [58, 64] stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 48 [52, 56] stitches remain. **

Continue straight until back measures 9 [10, 11] inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4 [5, 6] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Leave the remaining 30 [32, 34] stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for Back from ** to ** .
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape neck as follows:

Knit 18 [19, 20], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 9 [10, 11] stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 12 [14, 16] stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Making Up

Using a cool iron and a damp cloth for Baby Wool, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, start at the top of the left shoulder and work as follows:
Pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches down left side of neck, k12 [14, 16] from centre, pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches up right side, then knit 30 [32, 34] from back :
96 [104, 112] sts.

Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join left shoulder seam, then join neckband with a flat seam

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, pick up and knit 86 [94, 102] stitches round each armhole and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.

Cast off evenly in rib.
Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

Baby 3 ply 25g balls: 2 in main colour and 1 contrast colour (all sizes).

Pair each No 13 (2¼mm), No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 40 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 20 [22, 24] inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 9 [10, 11] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Baby 3ply - a version of which is still available today.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2020

Comfortable week-end jacket

MansLumberJacket11.jpg

Perfect for our current wintery spring.
Every man loves a comfortable lumber jacket for casual week-end wear.
[And I'm sure many a woman loves a comfortable man just like this one - if not the dog as well.
Notice that Roger has been wisely supplied with a lovely thick pair of leather gloves for this photo shoot...]

Instructions.

Instructions are given for one medium man's size only.

Back

With No 10 needles, cast on 109 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.

Change to No 8 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row [Right side facing]: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: Purl.

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Work straight in pattern until back measures 16 inches.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of following 2 rows: [91 sts]

Work straight until back measures 24 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; cast off remainder fairly tightly.

Left Front:

With No 10 needles, cast on 55 stitches and work 34 inches in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 8 needles and, in pattern, work straight until front measures 16 inches.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 2 rows [46 sts]
Purl back.

Work 41 rows straight in pattern, then with wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every row until 30 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back to the start of the shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Right Front:

Work to correspond with the left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles, cast on 57 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 8 needles and pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row until there are 83 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18½ inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 41 stitches remain; then, at each end of every row until 25 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work on wrong side under a damp cloth.

Neckband:
Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and knit 85 stitches all round neck.
Work l¼ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Insert zip-fastener at front opening.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn 19 ozs - shown in colour Wine.
[Editor's note: 1 oz is approximately 28g However the quantity you require depends on the length of the yarn rather than the weight so this can be only a guide.]

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

A zip fastener (double-ended - suitable for a jacket).
[Editor's note: no length is suggested for the zip, and probably better to measure, or monitor the length as you make the jacket.]

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 39-41 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 25 inches; sleeve seam: 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MansLumberJacket12.jpg

February 2020

Against the Cold

AgainstTheCold.jpg

This 1930s sweater has good news and bad news. The good is that it's made in a yarn weight that is more popular today than then - that is a heavy DK or worsted. And as a consequence, the bad news is that the instructions are only given for one size, and with limited opportunity to alter the size by using thicker yarn.
I have referenced some reading material at the end of the instructions, that might help you with adaptations if you are feeling that adventurous.

" An unusual broken trellis pattern makes this warm country jumper. The casual polo collar does up at the back with three buttons, and the button-up idea is carried out again on the front of the welt. ".

Instructions.

Instructions are given for only one small/medium size.

Back

With No 8 needles, cast on 70 stitches and work 3½ inches in k2, p2 rib. In the last row increase to 80 stitches by working twice into each of the first and last 5 stitches of the row. Change to No. 7 needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: * (p2, k2) twice, p10, k2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2, k10, (p2, k2) twice, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * p1, k2, p2, (k2, p4) twice, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k1 (p2, k4) twice, p2, k2, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
5th and 6th rows: * (k2, p2) 5 times, repeat from * to end.
7th row: * k1, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k1, repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
9th row: * p10, (k2, p2) twice, k2, repeat from * to end.
10th row: * p2, (k2, p2) twice, k10, repeat from * to end.
11th row: * k, 1, p10, (k2, p2) twice, k1, repeat from * to end.
12th row: * p1, (k2, p2) twice, k10, p1, repeat from * to end.
13th row: * k2, p10, (k2, p2) twice, repeat from * to end.
14th row: * (k2, p2) twice, k10, p2, repeat from * to end.
15th row: * p1, (k2, p4) twice, k2, p2, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
16th row: * k1, p2, k2, (p2, k4) twice, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
17th and 18th rows: * (p2, k2) 5 times, repeat from * to end.
19th row: * k1, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
20th row: * p1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, repeat from * to end.
21st row: * (k2, p2) twice, k2, p10, repeat from * to end.
22nd row: * k10, (p2, k2) twice, p2, repeat from * to end.
23rd row: * k1, (p2, k2) twice, p10, k1, repeat from * to end.
24th row: * p1, k10, (p2, k2) twice, p1, repeat from * to end.

These 24 rows form the pattern, which is repeated throughout.
When work measures 12 inches from commencement shape for armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then k2tog at each end of the next 2 rows.
Work for 1 more inch and then change to k2, p2 rib (beginning and ending rows on the right side with k2).
Continue straight until rib section measures 3 inches, and then divide for neck opening:

Next row: Rib across the first 30 stitches, k6, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Work on these 36 stitches, keeping the 6 stitches at the inside edge in stocking-stitch, and after ½ an inch make a buttonhole as in the front welt (see instructions below).

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, k2, cast off 2, work to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches to replace those cast off in the previous row.

When work measures 19 inches from commencement cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows at the armhole edge, and in the same row as the first casting-off make another buttonhole as before.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Return to the remaining 30 stitches, cast on 6 stitches and, keeping these in stocking-stitch, work to correspond with the first side, but omitting the buttonholes.

Front:

Begin with the right welt.
With No 8 needles cast on 40 stitches.

1st row: k6, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
2nd row: k2, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p6.

Repeat these 2 rows once and then make a buttonhole as follows:
5th row: k2, cast off 2, work to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches to replace those cast off in the previous row.

Continue in pattern for 1 inch, and then make another buttonhole in the same way, then work for 1 more inch and make another buttonhole.
When work measures 3½ inches, ending with a purl row, leave on a spare needle and make another piece for the left welt to correspond, but omitting the buttonholes.
When this second piece measures 3½ inches, increase by working twice into first 3 stitches (side edge), work across next 31 stitches, then, holding the spare needle with the right welt stitches in front of the remaining 6 stitches of the left welt, knit through one stitch from each needle and take off together; work to the last three stitches and work twice into each of these (80 stitches).
Work 1 more row right across in rib.

Now change to No 7 needles and pattern as for back, and continue until 3½ inches of the yoke ribbing have been done.

Next row (right side facing): Rib 27, leave 12 stitches on a spare needle, rib 27.
Continue to work on the last 27 stitches, casting off 3 at the beginning of every row at the neck edge until 18 stitches remain.
Work straight until front measures 19 inches from commencement.

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.
Work remaining 27 stitches to correspond.

Sleeves:

With No 8 needles, cast on 32 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib for 3 inches.
In the last row increase to 42 stitches by working twice into each of the first and last 5 stitches of the row.

Now change to No 7 needles and pattern, but after 2 inches have been done, increase in the next and every following 4th row until there are 62 stitches on the needle, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18½ inches from commencement, then, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With the set of No 8 needles and front of work facing, take the 18 stitches from the spare needle at the left back, pick up and knit 19 over the left shoulder, take 12 from the spare needle at the front, pick up and knit 19 over the right shoulder, and take the 18 from the spare needle at the right back.
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib. Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Sew up side and sleeve seams, and insert sleeves.
Stitch the cast-on stitches of the under-lap down.
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes and fasten collar with press studs.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting or Worsted weight: 14 ozs.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.
A set of 4 No 8 (4mm) needles or a circular needle.

Five large buttons.

Tension

20 stitches to 4 inches using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-36 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 19½ inches; sleeve seam: 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

This 1930s pattern is given in only one size - which to be fair is a "medium" although I suspect the average size for women is rather larger than medium these days. The original yarn was Patons Totem - which was a double knit weight but came in a number of guises over the years I believe - and the tension and needles indicate it's more like a worsted weight. So it's not so easy to simply increase the size by using a thicker yarn - it might work if you check your tension, but the resulting sweater might be unappealingly chunky for the intended style.

Geraldine Warner has produced a helpful book about how to approach adapting vintage patterns - however, don't be confused as it is published under two different titles - but it's the same book. Also note that this is a book of techniques and "how to" - it's does not contain any knitting patterns:
Knit Back in Time or also known as Vintage Design Workshop

Whatever you choose to do, when adapting - always knit a swatch!

Pattern detail:

January 2020

Traditional Arans

TraditionalArans.jpg

A set of conventional Aran sweaters in a good range of sizes.
Patterns include, twisted cables, lobster claw, diamonds, blackberry or trinity stitch, and double moss stitch.

Instructions

Back:


Using size 10 needles, cast on 70 (74, 80, 84, 88, 94, 102, 106, 112) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 10, 14, 3, 2) * work twice into next stitch, rib 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4); repeat from * to last 4 (6, 6, 7, 9, 9, 13, 3, 2)stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 3 (5, 5, 6, 8, 8, 12, 2, 1).
[ 92 (96, 104, 108, 112, 120, 128, 132, 140) sts]

Change to size 7 needles and pattern.
1st row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p1, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p6, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p1, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

2nd row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

3rd row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p2, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, *p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

4th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

5th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p3, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p3, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

6th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

7th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p4, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

8th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k5, sl2b, p2, p2 from cable needle, k5, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

9th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

10th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

11th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p3, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p3, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

12th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

13th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

14th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

15th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p1, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p6, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

16th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k1, p2, k8, p2, k1, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (13, 14, 14½, 15, 15, 15½, 15½, 16) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 80 (84, 86, 90, 92, 94, 96, 100, 104) stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 7½ (, 8, , , , 9, , ) inches from commencement of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Follow instructions as for the Back, from to .

Continue without further shaping until work measures 5 (, , , 6, , 6½, , 7) inches from commencement of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on a spare needle.

Shape Neck:
Next row: Pattern 32 (34, 34, 36, 37, 37, 38, 39, 41) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 10) rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as Back to shoulder, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches.

Slip the centre 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22) stitches on to a spare needle.
Join in yarn at neck edge to remaining stitches, and pattern to end. Complete to match first side of neck.

Sleeves:

Using size 10 needles, cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 2 (5, 8, 5, 3, 7, 5, 2, 7) * work twice into next stitch, rib 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 2, 3, 3, 3); repeat from * to last 2 (5, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 2, 7) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 1 (4, 7, 3, 2, 5, 4, 1, 6).
[ 62 (62, 62, 62, 62, 66, 66, 70, 70) sts]

Change to size 7 needles and pattern.

1st row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p1, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p6, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p1, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

2nd row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

3rd row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p2, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

4th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

5th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p3, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p3, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

6th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

7th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p4, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

8th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k5, sl2b, p2, p2 from cable needle, k5, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

9th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

10th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

11th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p3, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p3, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

12th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

13th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

14th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

15th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p1, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p6, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

16th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k1, p2, k8, p2, k1, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

These 16 rows form the pattern.

Increase, and work into the double moss, 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (9th, 7th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 5th, 6th, 5th) row until there are 72 (74, 78, 80, 84, 88, 92, 94, 98) stitches on the needle.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 15 (16, 16½, 17, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 52, 50, 50, 52) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30) stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Using a back stitch, join right shoulder seam.

With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, pick up and knit 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 23) stitches down side of neck, knit across the 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22) stitches at centre, pick up and knit 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 23) stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on back neck.
[90 (90, 94, 98, 98, 102, 102, 106, 110) sts]

Work in k1, p1, rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and press lightly with a warm iron over a damp cloth, omitting ribbing.

[Editor's Note: Avoid over-pressing the pattern stitches as this will flatten out cables or other textured stitches - in fact spraying the work with water, pinning out to shape (ie blocking), and leaving to dry naturally can work better than pressing.]

Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Set in Sleeves.
Fold neckband in half on to wrong side and slip stitch down.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) x 50g balls.

Pair each No 7 (4½mm) and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

19sts to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Actual chest measurement: 28½ (30½, 33½, 35, 37, 40½, 43½, 45½, 48½) ins
Length: 20¾ (22, 2, 24, 24¾, 25, 25¾, 26, 26¾) ins
Sleeve seam, 15 (16, 16½, 17, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 1) inches

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
sl2f: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work.
sl1b: slip next stitch on to cable needle and leave at back of work.
sl2b: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at back of work.
C4B: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at back
of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
C4F: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a branded Aran Bainin (which from Gaelic indicates an undyed white yarn). So substitute any Aran weight yarn.

The tension here indicates a lighter weight Aran - almost veering towards the American worsted weight. So as always - check your tension, and, as usual, you'll have to guess the quantity allowing for the fact that it's a pure wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2019

Smock Pinafores

SmockTops75.jpg

Pretty and easy to make knitted pinafores, providing a practical alternative to full knitted dresses which may be too warm for most centrally heated homes in this era.

Instructions.

This is the plain bodice, striped skirt, design in two colours.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (L); work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in L
2nd row: Purl in L
3rd row: Using D: k2, * sl2, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Using D: p2, * sl2, p2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Knit in L
6th row: Purl in L
7th row: Knit in D
8th row: Purl in D
9th row: Using L: sl2, * k2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Using L: sl2, * p2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
11th row: Knit in D
12th row: Purl in D

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until back measures approximately 6½/8/9/10½ inches ending on the 11th pattern row.

Next row: Using D: purl 13/2/0/5 stitches; (p2tog, p0/1/1/1) 31/29/33/31 times; p2tog, purl 13/3/1/6
[58 / 64 / 68 / 74 sts]

Starting with a knit row, continue straight in stocking-stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 42/48/52/58 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 36/40/44/48 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 3/4/4/5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 22/24/26/28 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 10/11/12/13; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 11/12/13/14 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 7/8/9/10 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 3/4/4/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 12/14/16/18 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 12/14/16/18 stitches from the front, pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 up the right side; then knit 22/24/26/28 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
2/2/2/2 balls in the contrast colour

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

L: main shade (light)
D: contrast (dark)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


Instructions.

This is the pinafore with the patterned bodice design in three colours.

Note: When working colour pattern from the chart, strand yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
When changing twist yarns on the wrong side to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left
to right.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Break off colour D

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (M), and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7///11 inches ending with a knit row.

Next row: purl 4/10/10/7 stitches; (p2tog, p2/2/2/3) 20/18/20/18 times; p2tog, purl 4/10/10/7
[69 / 75 / 81 / 87 sts]

Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Note: Repeat the 6 pattern stitches 11/12/13/14 times across and last 3 stitches on knit rows and first 3 stitches on purl rows as indicated.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 47/53/59/65 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 43/47/51/55 stitches remain.
**

Work straight in pattern until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 27/29/31/33 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 12/13/14/15; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 13/14/15/16 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/9/10/11 stitches remain.
Work straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4/4/5/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 15/17/19/21 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin appropriate colour yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 15/17/19/21 stitches from the front decreasing 2 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 up the right side; then knit 27/29/31/33 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seams and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
1 balls in of the two the contrast colours.
Editor's note: Colour names to conjure with:
Aqua Gem, Gay Turquoise, Blue Slate and Wild Rose....

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

M: main (aqua)
L: light (pink)
D: dark (blue)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

October 2019

Dr Watson's Lopi Sweater

Lopi2019.jpg

I have always loved Lopi sweaters (whatever the era) and I thought the one worn by Martin Freeman in Sherlock (2011 - was it that long ago?!) was especially good. I love the navy base and the Christmassy air about it. For all I know, in the context of the show, it may have been meant as a joke Christmas jumper - but I love it despite many Sherlock fans labelling as ugly (ugly?!).
As you can see this pattern I have provided here, as made popular in the 70s and 80s, goes with the muted natural tones of the era, so you would need to change the colours to your own choice - mine being navy white and red, of course. You can, however, see in the picture what a difference the colour scheme makes; both his and hers sweaters are knitted to the same pattern, and yet with a change to the main shade and order of contrasts it looks like quite a different pattern.

Instructions.

Note: When working colour pattern from chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across wrong side of work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep fabric elastic.
Read all rounds knit from right to left.

Back and Front (alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 75 [79, 83, 87, 91, 95] stitches, and work in K1/P1 rib for 4 inches (10cm), right-side rows having K1 at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10], m1, (rib 15 [16, 17, 17, 18, 19, m1) 4 times, rib to end.
{80 [84, 88, 92, 96, 100] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 15½ (15½, 15, 14½, 15, 14½] inches, (39 [39, 38, 37, 38, 37] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until
64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves (two alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 33 [35, 37, 39, 39, 41] stitches, and work in rib as on Back for 4 inches (10cm), and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 2 [3, 4, 2, 2, 3], m1, (rib 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6, m1) 6 times, rib to end.
{40 [42, 44, 46, 46, 48] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [3rd, 5th, 3rd, 7th, 7th) row.

Continue in stocking stitch in main colour only on 6mm needles and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 8th [8th, 9th, 9th, 9th, 8th] row until there are 58 [60, 60, 64, 64, 68] stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] inches, (44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm), ending with a P row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times.

1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th sizes only: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row. Work 1 row.

All sizes: Leave remaining 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke and Neck Border

With right side facing, slip the first 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back on a spare needle with points at both ends.
With right side facing, using six 6½mm needles (or a 6½mm circular needle) and main shade, knit across the remaining 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes, then knit 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from left sleeve, 64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches from the front, 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from the right sleeve, and finally 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes as before; so you now have all the pieces joined in a circle with the beginning of the round at the centre back.
{216 [224, 224, 240, 248, 256] sts}.

If you are using 6 double pointed needles, then divide the stitches evenly on 5 needles. Mark the first stitch of the round with a coloured thread, then joining in and breaking off colours as required, work the 32 [32, 32, 36, 36, 36] rounds from Chart A [A, A, B, B, B], repeating the 8 pattern stitches 27 [28, 28, 30, 31 , 32] times across and decreasing where indicated.
{81 [84, 84, 90, 93, 96] sts}.

Chart A

Chart B

Break 1st and 2nd contrasts and continue in main shade only.

Shape Back as follows:
1st row: Knit 7 [8, 8, 9, 10 , 11], turn.
2nd row: Purl 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22] turn.
3rd row: Knit 21 [24, 24, 27, 30 , 33], turn.
4th row: Purl 28 [32, 32, 36, 40 , 44], turn.
5th row: Knit 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22].

Change to set of four (or circular) 5mm needles and decrease 1 stitch on the first round on 1st and 5th sizes only (to make them an even number of stitches).
Work in K1/P1 rib for 3 [3, 3, 4, 4 , 4] inches, (8 [8, 8, 10, 10 , 10] cm). Then, using a 6mm needle, cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing press lightly following any instructions on the ball band.

When making up a chunky garment it is easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing. If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 76cm lengths and a large needle, making sure the yarn keeps its original twist by turning the needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join armhole, side and sleeve seams. Press seams.
Fold the neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Materials

Chunky knitting yarn:
13 [14, 15, 16, 17, 18] 50g balls in main shade.

2 balls in each of 2 contrast colours for all sizes.

Pair each 5mm, 6mm, and 6½mm needles.
Set of four 5mm and 6½mm needles, plus
two spare 6½mm needles with points at both ends.
Editor's note: Or use 6½mm circular needles, although you may need to transfer to a set dpns if circulars become too difficult to manage as the yoke decreases in size.

Tension

15sts and 20 rows to four inches on 6mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 [42, 44, 46, 48, 50] inches; (102 [107, 112, 117.122, 127] cm).
Actual size: 42 [44, 46, 48, 50, 52] ins;
(107 [112, 117, 122, 127, 132] cm).
Length from top of shoulders:
25½ [26, 26, 26½, 27, 27] ins;
(65 [66, 66, 67, 69, 69] cm).
Sleeve seam:
17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] ins;
(44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

DrWatson.jpg

Note that Dr Watson has patterning just above the welts on the body and the sleeve.
If you want to knit the actual original, it is Alafoss 52 - again looking quite different in the natural tones associated with Icelandic sweaters.

Alafoss52.jpg

September 2019

Country Wear Pullover

CountrySlipover.jpg

Fair-Isle pullover or vest in bright colours, with the added interest in that it is knitted sideways.

Instructions:

The pullover is worked sideways using the Fair-Isle technique. Strand the wools not in use loosely across the back of the work.

Back

Begin at the left side edge. Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade natural yarn cast on 84 stitches.
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across.

When the 10th row of the chart has been completed, continue in pattern, working armhole increasings as shown on the chart, and keeping the extra stitches in pattern as indicated.
At the beginning of the 24th row, cast on 50 stitches to complete the armhole. [147 sts]

Continue in pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the shoulder edge at the end of the 29th, 37th, 45th, and 53rd rows as indicated. [151 sts]
Work straight until the 78th row of the chart has been completed.
This brings you to the centre back.

For the second half of the back, work down from top of chart, that is: 77th, 76th, 75th, 74th rows, etc, still reading from right to left on knit rows and left to right on purl rows.
Remember on this half of the back to decrease 1 stitch at the shoulder edge on the 53rd, 45th, 37th and 29th rows, and to cast off 50 stitches at the beginning of the 24th row for the armhole, then to decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 84 stitches remain.

Work straight to the end of the chart, then purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Front

Begin at the right side and work exactly as for the first half of the back until the 57th row has been completed. [151 sts].

Divide for neck opening:
58th row: Cast off 15, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 9 purl rows as indicated on the chart. [91 sts]
Work 2 rows straight to the end of the 78th row of the chart.

For the second half of the front, work down from the top of the chart as before, casting on stitches at the neck edge to correspond with those cast off on the first half, and decreasing at the shoulder and armhole edges as indicated.

When the chart is complete, purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Ribbed welt

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 140 stitches along the lower edge of the back.
Work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib: cast off in rib.

Work the front welt in the same way.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, beginning at the centre back, pick up and knit 88 stitches to centre front.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the centre front on alternate rows; cast off in rib.

Work the other half to correspond.

Armhole bands

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 160 stitches round each armhole.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts well under a damp cloth.
Join side seams.
Join neck ribbing at centre back and front.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 x 1oz balls of 4 ply fingering in main shade (natural), plus 1 oz each in 6 contrast colours: brown, yellow, blue, rust, emerald, white.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 39-41 inches.
Length: 23 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

For a pdf version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

August 2019

Colour-wise fashion

MustardYellowSweater.jpg

I love the styling of this photo - the poise of the model, the "clashing" colour combination, the bracelet, and the lovely use of the location which makes the very best of the look of fresh summer rain.

This is a fairly simple pattern where the vertical contrast stripes are made by stranding the unused colour across the back (as opposed to intarsia) and this makes for a slightly more interesting 3D effect, even though they compensate by changing needles and stitch count over the different sections.
Not everyone likes mustard (or yellow...) but I think this sweater looks quite sophisticated as the colours are close on the colour wheel but not really matching. I have a sweater in pink with orange trim which gives a similar effect (less violent than it might sound!). Bear in mind also that mustard can be a difficult shade to pin down - so it could be gold or beige - just make sure it tones perfectly with your pencil skirt....

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.
Y = Sunglint Yellow and M = French Mustard

Back and Front alike

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 100 (106) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 1¼ inches, increasing 14 (16) stitches on the last row by working twice into every 7th (6th) stitch 14 (16) times: [114 (122) sts]

‡‡
Change to No 7 needles and work 36 rows vertical stripes, stranding wool loosely the slipped stitches, thus:

1st row: Using Mustard yarn (M), * k2, keeping wool at back of work, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
2nd row: Using M, * p2, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
3rd row: Using Yellow yarn (Y), * keeping wool at back slip 2 purlways, k2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: Using Y, * slip 2 purlways, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.

Repeat the last 4 rows 8 times more.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking stitch in yarn Y, thus:

Next row: * k 7 (8), k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches; k6 (2): [102 (110) sts]

Work 13 rows straight in stocking stitch.

Join in yarn M, and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.
‡‡

Work 13 rows in yarn Y.

Next row: * p7 (8), purl twice into next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches, p6 (2): [114 (122) sts]

Repeat from ‡‡ to ‡‡

Continue in yarn Y and shape armholes by casting off 5 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 knit rows: [80 (86) sts]

Next row: * p 6 (9), purl twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, p 10 (6): [90 (94) sts]

Change to No 7 needles, join in M and work the 36 rows of vertical stripes.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles.

Next row: * k6 (9), k2tog; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, k10 (6): [80 (86) sts]
Work 13 rows stocking-stitch in yarn Y.

Join in M and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.

Shape shoulders: by casting off 6 (7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Work a further 6 rows on the remaining stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely.

Back and Front alike

Make a second piece for the front exactly as instructions above.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and yarn Y, cast on 48 (50) stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row until there are 70 (72) stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (16½) inches.
With right side facing, shape top, by casting off 4 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 (32) stitches remain.
Purl back, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 (14) stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join shaped ends of neck facing.
Turn under 6 rows stocking-stitch across the back of the neck and 6 rows across the front, but graduating hem to a depth of 12
rows at centre front; catch down lightly on wrong side.
Press all seams and neck facing lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn: 13 (14) oz in Sunglint yellow, and 4 (4)oz French Mustard

Pair each No 7 (2¾mm), No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

22 sts x 28 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 23 (23) inches;
sleeve seam: 23 (23) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Totem Double Crepe which was a pure wool standard double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MustardYellowSweater2.jpg

July 2019

Sun Set

SunSet1.jpg

The era of the "set" — a sweet and quirky twin set for you to enjoy while soaking up the sun.
[I would, but I have a serious case of teeny tiny waist envy].

Instructions

This is a two-piece: a bolero with pointed edge, and a sleeveless top with back and front V-neck.

Bolero Back

Begin at the back of the neck.
With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 36 stitches fairly loosely, and work 1 row in k2, p2 rib.

With right side facing, continue in rib, casting on 18 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 stitches at the beginning of the
following 10 rows for shoulders. [132 sts].
Work straight in rib for 7½ inches from the end of the shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape for armholes by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, then cast on 8 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, taking the extra stitches into the
rib as they are made. [156 sts].
Work 10 rows straight.

** Here divide for points:

Next row (right side facing): rib 78, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Continue to work backwards and forwards on these 78 stitches using
three needles thus: rib 39 stitches on to 1st needle; with 2nd needle sl1, k1, psso, rib to end; * with spare needle, rib to last stitch of next needle, purl this stitch; with spare needle sl1, k1, psso, rib to end.
Repeat from * until all stitches are gone. Fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 78 stitches and
work to correspond with first half. **

Bolero Fronts

Left bolero front: Begin at the shoulder.
With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 18 stitches and work row in k2, p2 rib.

With wrong side facing, continue in rib, casting on 6 stitches at the
beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows. [48 sts].
This completes shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, continue in rib and shape front edge by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row (front edge) then on every following 4th row, 18 times in all, taking the extra stitches into rib as they are made; afterwards keep the front edge straight. When the armhole (straight edge) measures 7½ inches from the end of the shoulder shaping, with wrong side facing, increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, then cast on 8 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row. [78 sts].
Work 10 rows straight.

With right side facing, shape as for back by working from to .

Right bolero front: Work as for left, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (two alike)

With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 116 stitches and work
3½ inches in k2, p2 rib.

Continue in rib, shaping the top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 66 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 32 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Sun Top (back and front alike)

With two No 13 (2¼mm) needles, cast on 126 stitches and work
4 inches in k2, p2 rib.
Change to two No 12 (2¾mm) needles and continue in rib, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 4th row until there are 156 stitches. Work straight until piece measures 11¾ inches from the start.

Here divide for points exactly as given for back of by working from ** to ** .

Making up

Press parts only very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder and sleeve seams of bolero and side seams of sun top.
With crochet hook and white wool, work edging all round points of sun top; all round points, up fronts and round back of neck on bolero
thus:-
Join wool to edge of knitting, 6 chain, * miss 2 stitches of knitting, 1 treble in next stitch, 3 chain; repeat from * ending 1 treble in last stitch of knitting; fasten off.

Cords: Take 6 strands of Viridian each 60 inches long and twist tightly together; then fold in half allowing two halves to twine round each other to form a cord; thread through holes in crochet edging on inside edges of points of sun-top; make a similar cord for back inside edges, then two more in red for outer edges of points.
Knot ends together on shoulders. In the same way make a red cord to go round front points and all round back of neck of
bolero, then make one in viridian to go round points of
back.
Secure ends on wrong side at underarms.
Join crochet edgings together from underarm for inches to form side seams of bolero. Insert sleeves. Turn back cuffs and press lightly in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

3ply fingering:-
Bolero: 5oz in white and small amounts in Viridian (blue-green) and Lipstick Red.
Sun Top: 4oz in white and small amounts in Viridian and Lipstick Red.

A set of 4 No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
One pair of No 13 (2¼mm) needles.
One No 13 crochet hook.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of
34sts x 42 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

One size only to fit 34-35 inch chest;
length from top of shoulders to point on bolero: 17 ins;
from top of point to lower edge on sun top: 18½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2 ins (cuff turned back).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SunSet2.jpg

June 2019

Three-ounce top I

3ozHighNeck.jpg

Very pretty lacy tops with the emphasis on wool economy.
The style of this pattern in conjunction with the price (3d), the emphasis on economy, and its pattern sequence number is giving me mixed messages as to the date; however general opinion seems to be that these patterns are from the late 1940s.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.
Note that the two different sizes are achieved by using different needles sizes as well as different numbers of stitches.

Front

With No 13 (12) needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 18 times, then repeat the 1st row again.
40th row: p2tog, purl to end.

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows 7 times more. (80 rows).

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [98 sts]

7th row: As 7th pattern row.
Work the next 3 rows as 8th. 9th and 10th pattern rows to complete one pattern.
Work 4 more complete patterns of 10 rows each.

Shape Neck:
51st row: Work 38 stitches as 1st pattern row, ending k4, wo, k1.

Cast off 22 stitches, (1 stitch on the right-hand needle), pattern 37 stitches.
Work on this 2nd set of 38 stitches for right shoulder.

52nd row: purl 38 stitches.
53rd row: cast off 3 stitches, work in pattern to end.
54th row: purl 35 stitches.
55th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
56th row: purl 33 stitches.
57th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
58th row: purl 31 stitches.
59th row: k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Keeping the pattern correct, work 10 rows on 30 stitches.

70th row: cast off 10 stitches; purl to end.
71st row: Work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: cast off 10 stitches, purl to end.
73rd row: As 71st row.
Cast off.

Left shoulder:
Join wool to neck edge of the remaining 38 stitches, and work to match the right shoulder.

Back

Work to match the front until 5 complete patterns have been worked from the beginning of the armhole shaping.

Divide for Back Opening:

51st row: work 49 stitches in pattern. Turn.
52nd row: increase into 1st stitch; purl to end.
Continue in pattern on these 50 stitches until 2 patterns are completed.

Shape Shoulder:
71st row: cast off 10 stitches, then work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Left Shoulder:
Cast on 3 stitches and join to centre back.
Work to match right shoulder, keeping the 3 extra stitches for underflap in garter stitch, and casting off 22 stitches for neck.

Sleeves:

With No. 13, (12) needles. cast on 87 stitches.
1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
Work in this rib for 8 more rows.

10th row: p3, * increase into next stitch, p8; repeat from to last 4 stitches, increase into next stitch, p3. [98 sts]

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern.
Work 3, (2) complete patterns.
If sleeve is wanted longer for larger size, then work a further complete pattern.

Shape Top:
Cast off 5 stitches twice, and then 4 stitches twice at the beginning of the next 4 rows, [80 sts]
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 44 stitches remain.
Purl one row (40 rows from the beginning of the shaping).
Now cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. (32 stitches remain).
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 20 stitches.

Neck Band

Back-stitch shoulder seams very neatly.
With No 13 (12) needles and right side of work facing, pick up and
knit 120 stitches evenly round neck.
Work in rib of k3, p3, for 9 rows.
Cast off in rib, using a No 11 (10) needle.

Making Up

Seam-stitch side and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves and back-stitch.
Catch down underflap.
Work a row of chain stitch down right side of back opening. turn and
make 4 buttonholes in chain stitch.

Make 4 buttons follows:
Make 8 chain and join in a circle. Work 6 dc into this circle. Work a second round of 6 dc then a round of 4 dc. Break off thread and pull through loop to secure. Stuff with a very small quantity of cotton wool and draw up tight.
Sew on buttons to match.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 (4) ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 13 or (2¼mm), and No 11 (3mm) needles for smaller size.

Pairs of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles for larger size.

A medium crochet hook.

Tension

7½ (7) sts x 10½ (10) rows to 1 inch on No 11 (10) needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34 (36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19) inches; side seam 12 (13) inches; sleeve seam 3½ (4) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

dc: double crochet (that is English double crochet or US single crochet).

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Three-ounce top II

3ozLowNeck.jpg

Very pretty lacy tops with the emphasis on wool economy.
The style of this pattern in conjunction with the price (3d), the emphasis on economy, and its pattern sequence number is giving me mixed messages as to the date; however general opinion seems to be that these patterns are from the late 1940s.

Instructions.

This jumper with the low neck is given only in one size.

Front

With No. 10 needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: As the 1st row.
4th row: k2tog, rib in pattern to end.

Change to pattern as follows:
[Editor's note: This pattern is the same as for thejumper with the high neck.]

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows twice more. (3 complete patterns of 10 rows each).

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows.
[Editor's note: This is to make the shaping for the waist.]

Change back to No 10 needles and work 70 rows.

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 12 stitches. With 1 stitch on the right-hand needle, work as 1st pattern row to the last 12 stitches.
Cast off 12 stitches. Fasten off and break wool.

Cast on 24 stitches. Join to work. Purl 98 stitches, and cast on 24 stitches at the end of the row.
3rd row: k24 stitches and work as 3rd row of pattern to last 24 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: Purl 146 stitches.
5th row: As 5th pattern row.
Work 5 rows to complete the pattern, then work 30 rows.
(4 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping).

Neck Shaping:
1st row: Work 62 stitches as 1st pattern row.
Cast off 22 stitches.
Work on this last set of 62 stitches for right side of neck as follows:
With 1 stitch already on the right-hand needle, work as from * of 1st pattern row to end.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows.
9th row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of this and the following alternate row.
12th row: Purl 38 stitches.
Work 8 rows to complete 6 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping, then work the first 5 rows to start the 7th pattern repeat.

Shape Shoulder:
(6th pattern row). Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 26 stitches in pattern as for 7th pattern row.
Next row: Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 14 stitches in pattern as for 9th pattern row.
Cast off 14 stitches.

Left Side of Neck:
Join wool to neck edge of remaining 62 stitches.

Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows, then cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the 2 following alternate rows.
Work one complete pattern of 10 rows On these 38 stitches, then work 6 rows of 7th pattern from the beginning of the of armhole shaping.

Shape Shoulder as for right side of neck, beginning with a 7th pattern row.

Neck

With No 10 needles and right side of work facing, pick up and knit 98 stitches all round neck.

Purl 1 row.
Next row: As 9th pattern row.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more.

Change to No 12 needles.
Next row: P2tog, purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog. [96 sts]
Next row: k3, p3; repeat to end.
Work 4 rows in this k3/p3 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib, using the wool doubled.
[Editor's note: This make the edge stronger.]

Back

Work to match the front exactly.

Making Up

Run a thread along each of the cast on 24 stitches and gather to fit the 12 cast off stitches. Sew together very neatly on the wrong side.
Seam-stitch side seams, matching pattern exactly, and seam-stitch the neck on each shoulder.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 10 or (3¼mm), and No 12 (2¾mm) needles for smaller size.

Tension

7 sts x 10 rows to 1 inch on No 10 needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34-36 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2019

Cricket (or Tennis) Pullover

CricketPullover.jpg

Anyone for cricket?

I made this as a slipover for a long, lean, and lanky chap; it is based on the pattern given but I adapted it to use some Guernsey yarn instead of DK (by knitting a bigger size and making it much longer to fit the chap - seemed like the body was never-ending!).
The instructions are for a full sweater pattern as well as the slipover.

Instructions.

The sweater is worked in a good range of sizes, intended to cover kids and men, but could also fit women, making suitable length adjustments in body and sleeve. Instructions for the larger sizes are shown in brackets.
Because of the layout for the different sizes, I recommend printing out the instructions and underlining the size you have chosen to work in every section that applies to that size (and maybe crossing through the other inapplicable sections).
There are options for versions with and without sleeves (and with and without team colours, of course).

Sweater Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 77, 83, 89, 95, 99, 105, 111, 117, 121, 127 stitches.

**
1st row (right side facing)
: k1 * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1 * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

If not including contrast colours, Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 10 times then the 1st row again, and continue below with 24th (increase) row.

If including contrast colours, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Join in second colour and repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Break off contrast, and continuing in main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 5 times.
Join in contrast once again and repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Break off contrast, and continuing in main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice, then the 1st row once.
**
Continue with main shade for the remainder of the Back.
24th (increase) row: p3 (4, 7, 8, 6, 5, 6, 9, 7, 8); * increase once in the next stitch purlwise, p1; repeat from * to the last 2 (3, 6, 7, 5, 4, 5, 8, 6, 7) stitches: p2 (3, 6, 7, 5, 4, 5, 8, 6, 7).
[113 (121, 127, 135, 143, 153, 161, 167, 175, 183) sts].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:-

For three smallest sizes only (28, 30 and 32 inch chest):

***
1st row: k0 (4, 7); p2, * slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last 31 (35, 38) stitches, C9B, p2, k7, p2, C9F, p2, k0 (4, 7).
2nd row: p0 (4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9; * k2, p7, k2, p9; repeat from * to last 2 (6, 9) stitches, k2, p0 (4, 7).
3rd row: k0 (4, 7); p2, * k9, p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last 31 (35, 38) stitches, k9, p2, k7, p2, k9, p2, k0 (4, 7).
4th row: p0 (4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9, repeat from * to last 2 (6, 9) stitches, k2, p0 (4, 7).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For the medium-small sizes only (34, and 36 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); repeat from * to last - (-, -, 13, 17) stitches, C9B, p2, k7, p2, p2, k- (-, -, 2, 6).
2nd row: p- (-, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, 2, 6).
3rd row: k- (-, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, k9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, 2, 6).
4th row: p- (-, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; *p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, 2, 6).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For the three medium-large sizes only (38, 40 and 42 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7), p2; * slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 31, 35, 38) stitches, C9F, p2, k7, p2, C9B, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
2nd row: p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 2, 6, 9) stitches, k2, p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
3rd row: k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); p2, * k9, p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 31, 35, 38) stitches, k9, p2, k7, p2, k9, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
4th row: p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9, repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 2, 6, 9) stitches, k2, p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For two largest sizes only (44 and 46 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
2nd row: p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6), k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
3rd row: k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7,p2, k9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
4th row: p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Under each separate section for the size you are working, the instructions embedded between *** to *** forms the pattern.

Keeping continuity of pattern (throughout) continue until work measures 11½ (13, 14, 13½, 15½, 15½, 15½, 15½, 15, 16) inches from the beginning, ending on a wrong side row.

Shape armholes:
Cast off 7 stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
[99 (107, 113, 121, 129, 139, 147, 153, 161, 169) sts].

****
Work 9 (11, 13, 15, 10, 13, 17, 18, 22, 24) rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
[81 (85, 87, 91, 109, 113, 113, 117, 117, 121) sts].

Continue without shaping until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8, , 10½, 10½, 10½, 10½, 11, 11) inches, ending on the wrong side.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Cast off remaining 33 (37, 37, 37, 37, 43, 43, 43, 43, 47) stitches in pattern.

Sweater Front

Work exactly as given for back until **** is reached in the armhole shaping section.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 45 (49, 52, 56, 60, 65, 69, 72, 76, 80) stitches, k2tog; turn.

Working on these 47 (51, 54, 58, 62, 67, 71, 74, 78, 82) stitches only, proceed as follows:

Next row: pattern to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
[46 (50, 53, 57, 61, 66, 70, 73, 77, 81) sts]

Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 5, 11, 15, 16, 13, 21) rows, decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row, and at the same time decreasing at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row.
[35 (36, 36, 37, 53, 49, 47, 49, 57, 49) sts]

For one medium and the two largest sizes only (36, 44 and 46 inch chest):

Work - (-, -, -, 3, -, -, -, 7, 1) rows, decreasing once at the armhole edge in every row, at the same time decreasing once at the neck edge on the - (-, -, -, 0, -, -, -, 4th, 0) row.
[- (-, -, -, 50, -, -, -, 49, 48) sts]

For the smallest and other large sizes only (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42 inch chest):

Work 12 (14, 12, 6, -, 6, 2, 1, -, -) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on every following 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 2nd, -, 2nd, 2nd, 1st, -, -) row.
[29 (29, 30, 34, -, 46, 46, 48, -, -) sts]

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Work 20 (20, 20, 28, 53, 44, 44, 44, 45, 43) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on the 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 3rd), and every following 4th row.
[24 (24, 25, 27, 36, 35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts]

Continue without shaping until armhole measures same as Back to "Shape Shoulders" section, ending on wrong side row.

Shape shoulders:
Next row: cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern and then pattern to end of row.
Next row: pattern to end of row.
Cast off remaining 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern.

Work the other half of the front to match the first as follows:

With right side facing, slip the first stitch of the the remaining stitches on to a safety pin (this is the centre stitch).
Rejoin the yarn to the remaining 49 (53, 56, 60, 64, 69, 73, 76, 80, 84) stitches and proceed as follows:-

Next row: k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
[47 (51, 54, 58, 62, 67, 71, 74, 78, 82) sts]
Next row: p2tog, pattern to end
[46 (50, 53, 57, 61, 66, 70, 73, 77, 81) sts]

Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 5, 11, 15, 16, 13, 21) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row.
[35 (36, 36, 37, 53, 49, 47, 49, 57, 49) sts]

For one medium and the two largest sizes only (36, 44 and 46 inch chest):

Work - (-, -, -, 3, -, -, -, 7, 1) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge on the - (-, -, -, 0, -, -, -, 4th, 0) row, at the same time decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row.
[- (-, -, -, 50, -, -, -, 49, 48) sts]

For the smallest and other large sizes only (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42 inch chest):

Work 12 (14, 12, 6, -, 6, 2, 1, -, -) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on every following 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 2nd, -, 2nd, 2nd, 1st, -, -) row.
[29 (29, 30, 34, -, 46, 46, 48, -, -) sts]

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Work 20 (20, 20, 28, 53, 44, 44, 44, 45, 43) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on the 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 3rd), and every following 4th row.
[24 (24, 25, 27, 36, 35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts]

Continue without shaping until armhole measures same as Back to "Shape Shoulders" section ending on right side.

Shape shoulders:
Next row: cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern and then pattern to end of row.
Next row: pattern to end of row.
Cast off remaining 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern.

Sweater Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 needles and main shade, cast on 43 (43, 45, 45, 55, 55, 59, 59, 59, 61) stitches.

Work from ** to ** as given for Back.

24th (increase) row: p6 (6, 8, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13); * increase once in the next stitch purlwise; repeat from * to the last 7 (7, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14) stitches: p7 (7, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14).
[73 (73, 73, 73, 87, 87, 95, 95, 95, 95) sts].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and using main shade throughout proceed in pattern as give for 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) size of Back and at the same time, increasing once at each end of the 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) and every following 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) row until there are 87 (81, 89, 81, 117, 117, 107, 107, 125, 125) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern.

For all sizes EXCEPT the smallest only (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 inch chest):

Increase once at each end of the following - (6th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row, until there are 87 (95, 95, 101, 129, 129, 129, 129, 137, 137) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern.

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Continue without shaping until sleeve measures 14½ (15½, 16½, 17, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20) inches, ending on the wrong side.

Shape Sleeve Top
Work 18 (26, 26, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28, 28) rows, casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of every row.
[69 (69, 69, 77, 103, 103, 101, 101, 109, 109) sts].

Work 20 (20, 20, 24, 36, 36, 32, 32, 36, 36) rows, casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row.
[29 (29, 29, 29, 31, 31, 37, 37, 37, 37) sts].

Cast off loosely in pattern.

Sweater Neckband

Join right shoulder seams.
With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade, and commencing at the top of the left front neck, pick up and knit 45 (49, 49, 51, 63, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65) stitches evenly down the left side of the the front neck, knit the centre stitch you left on a safety pin, pick up and knit 45 (49, 49, 51, 63, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65) stitches evenly up the right side of the the front neck, and 32 (36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 42, 42, 46) stitches evenly across the cast-off stitches of the back neck.
[123 (135, 135, 139, 163, 169, 169, 169, 173, 177) sts].

If you are including a contrast then proceed as follows, otherwise follow the same instructions using only the main shade.

1st row: Using main shade * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch pl.
2nd row: Join in and use contrast, k1, [p1, k1] 21 (23, 23, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 31, 31) times; k2togtbl, k1,k2tog; k1, [p1, k1] 37 (41, 41, 42, 48, 51, 51, 51, 52, 54) times.
3rd row: Using contrast, [p1, k1] 37 (41, 41, 42, 48, 51, 51, 51, 52, 54) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 21 (23, 23, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 31, 31) times. Break off contrast.
4th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 20 (22, 22, 23, 29, 29, 29, 29, 30, 30) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 36 (40, 40, 41, 47, 50, 50, 50, 51, 53) times.
5th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 36 (40, 40, 41, 47, 50, 50, 50, 51, 53) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 20 (22, 22, 23, 29, 29, 29, 29, 30, 30) times.
6th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 19 (21, 21, 22, 28, 28, 28, 28, 29, 29) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 35 (39, 39, 40, 46, 49, 49, 49, 50, 52) times.
7th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 35 (39, 39, 40, 46, 49, 49, 49, 50, 52) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 19 (21, 21, 22, 28, 28, 28, 28, 29, 29) times.
8th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 18 (20, 20, 21, 27, 27, 27, 27, 28, 28) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 34 (38, 38, 39, 45, 48, 48, 48, 49, 51) times.
9th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 34 (38, 38, 39, 45, 48, 48, 48, 49, 51) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 18 (20, 20, 21, 27, 27, 27, 27, 28, 28) times.
10th row: Join in and use contrast, k1, [p1, k1] 17 (19, 19, 20, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27, 27) times; k2togtbl, k1, k2tog; k1, [p1, k1] 33 (37, 37, 38, 44, 47, 47, 47, 48, 50) times.
11th row
: Using contrast, [p1, k1] 33 (37, 37, 38, 44, 47, 47, 47, 48, 50) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 17 (19, 19, 20, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27, 27) times. Break off contrast.
12th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 16 (18, 18, 19, 25, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 32 (36, 36, 37, 43, 46, 46, 46, 47, 49) times.
13th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 32 (36, 36, 37, 43, 46, 46, 46, 47, 49) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 16 (18, 18, 19, 25, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26) times.
[99 (111, 111, 115, 139, 145, 145, 145, 149, 153) sts].

Cast off in rib.

To Make Up the Sweater

Review the yarn ball band for any special washing or pressing instructions.
Join left shoulder and neckband seams.
Set in sleeves, placing centre of head of sleeve to shoulder
seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Slipover Back, Front, and Neckband

Work exactly as given for sweater.

Slipover Armbands (alike)

Join left shoulder and neckband seams.

With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade pick up and knit 101 (107, 107, 113, 135, 135, 135, 135, 141, 141) stitches evenly around the armhole edge.

If you are including a contrast then proceed as follows, otherwise follow the same instructions using only the main shade.

1st row: Join in and use contrast, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: Using contrast, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

Using main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using contrast, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once. Break off contrast.
Using main shade, repeat 1st row once.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up the Slipover

Review the yarn ball band for any special washing or pressing instructions.
Join side and armband seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn in white or ivory.
Oddments of colours for contrast if required.
Sweater:
4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 9) x 100g balls
Slipover:
2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) x 100g balls

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

29sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over pattern.
Editor's note: When substituting yarns, making a swatch is a good idea; I think you are fairly safe to assume that this is designed for a standard DK - 22sts x 30rows in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest:
28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) inches (actual measurement is larger giving ease from 3 inches on smallest size up to 4 inches on largest size).
Length: 19 (21, 22, 22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27) inches.
Sleeve seam:
14½ (15½, 16½, 17, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
tbl: through back loop
C9B: slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle
C9F: slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a good quality double knitting woollen blend.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

April 2019

Colourful Bolero

ColourfulBolero.jpg

Printed towards the end of WW2, in an era of extreme shortages **, this is knitwear designed with a view to using left overs or even maybe "pulled back" wool.
Despite that I think it looks really attractive - and is a very interesting design being knitted sideways.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size.
The pattern stitches are given below.
Try out a piece of the pattern for practice by casting on 24 stitches.

Pattern:

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl.
2nd row
: * k2, p4, k1, p4; repeat from * ending row k2.
3rd row
: p2, * k4, p1, k4, p2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: k1, * twist A, p3, k1, p3, twist B; repeat from *, ending k1.
5th row: p3, * k3, p1, k3, p4; repeat from * all along, ending p3.
6th row: * k2, twist A, p2, k1, p2, twist B; repeat from * ending k2.
7th row: p4, * k2, p1, k2, ending p6; repeat from *, ending row p4.
8th row: k3, * twist A, p1, k1, p1, twist B, k. 4; repeat from *, ending k3.
9th row: p5, * k1, p1, k1, p8; repeat from *, ending p5.
10th row: k4, * twist A, k1, twist B, k6, repeat from *, ending k4.
Change to white yarn.
11th row: purl.
12th row: knit.

Repeat these 12 rows throughout.

Back

The bolero is knitted sideways.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 90 stitches and work 5 rows of the pattern.

Now increase at the beginning of the next and end of every following row at this side until there are 108 stitches, and 23 rows are done.
On to the end of this row cast on 37 stitches to complete the armhole shaping.

Work straight until 2 more complete patterns are done, and then work 1 row of the next pattern, which brings you back to the top of the shoulder.
Cast off 16 stitches for the back neck insert (to be knitted later).
Finish this pattern and work 5 more patterns, and then 9 rows of 6th.

At the beginning of the 10th row cast on 16 stitches, and then finish the shoulder to correspond with first side, casting off 37 for the armhole and decreasing on every row thereafter until 90 stitches remain.

Finish off with 5 rows straight.

There are 15 patterns in total across the back, omitting the last 2-row white stripe.

Left front

Work as for back, but cast off 26 instead of 16 stitches on the shoulder.
Then work straight, finishing this pattern and 3 more, but omit the last white stripe.
Cast off.

Right front

Work to correspond with left front.

[Editor's note: They are assuming rather a lot here and expect you will work this out for yourself. You could continue to work the in the same sideways direction: as you have just cast off at the centre front, so you could cast on for the right front at the centre front which would mean casting on 119 stitches - then casting on 26 at the shoulder, and completing the shaping as you did for the back.
Or,
You could work exactly as you did for the left front but reversing all the shapings - so you would be doing the armhole increasing at the end of the rows and you would cast on the 37 stitches at the same edge and casting off the 26 stitches at this same edge.]

Neck Ribbing

Join back and front shoulder seams.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and front of work facing, pick up and knit 80 stitches across the back of the neck. Work in k1/p1 rib, decreasing at each end of every alternate row 5 times.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and continue in rib, decreasing as before until 48 stitches remain. Cast off fairly tightly in rib.

For each front section pick up and knit 44 stitches in the same way, and decrease 5 times on alternate rows at the side edge before changing to No 12 needles. Then decrease as before until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

For each shoulder piece pick up and knit 42 stitches across each shoulder and then shape as for back, casting off the remaining 10 stitches.

[Editor's note: It may or may not be obvious here but you are knitting on the sides of a rectangle here and decreasing towards the middle; when you sew these together you will have mitred corners - you can just see this in the photograph.]

Front Borders

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a length of k1/p1 rib long enough to go up the left front.
Work a piece the same for the right front, but make 3 buttonholes: one in the 3rd row from the top, and the remaining 2 at one inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5; on the next row cast on 3 over those cast off in the previous row.

Continue strip for the length required, then cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Worked sideways in pattern.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 13.

1st row: Pattern to end.
2nd row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
3rd row: Cast on 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times more.

10th row: As 2nd.
11th row: Cast on 17, pattern to end.
12th row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
13th row: Pattern to last stitch, work twice into this.

Repeat 12th and 13th rows 15 times more, then the 12th row again.
There are now 84 stitches on the needle and 44 rows have been done.
Work the next 42 rows straight in pattern.

87th row: Pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
88th row: k2tog, pattern to end.

Repeat 87th and 88th rows 15 times more, then 87th row again.
119 rows have now been done, and there are 51 stitches on the needle.

120th row: k2tog, pattern to end.
121st row: Cast off 17, pattern to end.
122nd row: k2tog , pattern to end.
123rd row: Cast off 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 122nd and 123rd rows 3 times more, leaving 13 stitches on the needle.
Work 1 row in pattern; cast off.

This finishes the 11th coloured stripe.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew together side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew on buttons.
Join ribbing at corners neatly before stitching front strips to edge.

Materials

3 ply yarn: 1 oz in main shade (M) plus 1oz each in 5 different shades of the same wool, or odd balls of different colours to make up this amount.

[Editor's note: Looking at the photo and instructions, presumably one of these colours needs to be white.]

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 33-35 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 18½ inches;
sleeve seam: 5½ inches.

Abbreviations

Twist A: Knit into back of 2nd stitch on left-hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch, drop both stitches off needle together.

Twist B: Knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch on left needle, slip both off together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

** The 'Make Do and Mend' campaign - which is currently quite a well known slogan from WW2 - was launched to encourage people to make their existing clothing last longer. Clothes care was a key part of the Make Do and Mend message. Shortages of basic materials and consequential clothing rationing necessitated imaginative use of materials; this included recycling and renovating old clothes, and the innovative use of home-made accessories, which could alter or smarten up an outfit. You see a lot of these ideas in magazines of that era appearing as little knitted collars and cuffs or just inexpensive embellishment ideas. This type of pattern continues from its humble beginnings well into the 1950s - and not surprising since although the war ended in 1945, clothes rationing did not end until 1949.

Rationing worked by allocating each item or category of clothing a 'points' value which varied according to how much material and labour went into its manufacture. Each person was allocated a fixed number of coupons to "spend" when they purchased clothing. In 1941, at the inception, adults receive 66 but this allocation shrank as the war progressed: to 48 in 1942, 36 in 1943 and 24 by 1945. As for knitwear specifically - a jumper, for example, used up 5 coupons and socks 1-3. Making your own knitwear did not help much since knitting wool was also rationed (almost pro rata) with two ounces of knitting yarn requiring one coupon; however, with essentials such as boots and overcoats requiring 7 coupons you can see why people were reluctant to spend any coupons at all on knitwear when they could reuse old "pulled back" yarn.

One interesting result of this evolved from the fact that "mending cards" of yarn were not rationed at all - presumably to encourage the make-do-and-mend mentality. They were traditionally dull buff or grey colours being intended to darn mens socks. [I have inherited many of these cards which sit at the bottom of my work basket - commercial socks are much tougher these days]. However during this period the commercial yarn companies started to produce "mending cards" in all kinds of wild colours which fitted perfectly with multicoloured designs such as this bolero, or the ubiquitous Fair Isle sweater patterns of the period. The influence of rationing some items and not others could be seen much wider than just in knitting yarn in that people would find ways of using many different or less usual materials for clothing if they happened to be "off the ration".

The popularity of multicoloured sweaters, and specifically Fair Isle, was very much to do with being able to use smaller amounts of yarn from different sources and make a garment that looked fresh and new, rather than the collection of oddments which it really was. Sewing patterns were also offered with this in mind - I have a lovely blouse pattern from the period with terrific square shoulders and nipped in waist that is designed to be made in 2 fabrics out of "2 of your husbands old shirts" with the pattern pieces shown laid out accordingly on the shirts, (noting that men's shirts of the period were positively voluminous).

March 2019

Spring Thickie

SpringThickie1.jpg

Another highly wearable jumper with a flattering neckline from the 1950's.
The sleeves look to be a pleasing (to me) three-quarter length but with a set in style that is almost a dolman, yet with a flattering line fitted to the neck shaping.
Although cited as a "thickie" in 1950s terms it's made in a standard double knitting weight yarn - so "Spring Thickie" or "Square Neck Casual" - I leave the name up to you.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

The sweater is worked in an all-over pattern involving loops and slipped stitches. It is advisable to practise this stitch to get used to it before starting the main work. Take particular care not to drop any stitches as it is difficult to pick them up again without spoiling the pattern.
Where numbers of stitches are given these apply to the basic number only, ie each double stitch is counted as one stitch.
[Editor's note: This is easier to understand once you have practised the stitch.]

Pattern stitch

With No 9 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 2 inches to practise the pattern.
1st row: k1 * insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle twice as before. [12 sts]
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to
last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice round needle.

The 3rd row forms the pattern and this row is now repeated throughout.

[Editor's note: Just to encourage you - this pattern is easier to do in practice than to explain.]

Back

Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109) stitches and work straight in pattern starting with 1st and 2nd rows [once 2nd row is done there are 100 (108) stitches]; continue until 31 (31) ridges have been done from start.

Continue in pattern and shape for armholes:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 20 (24) [to cast off — knit the
1st loop instead of dropping it, * knit together the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way; repeat from * until 20 (24) stitches have been cast off], then pattern 60 (60), cast off the last 20 (24) stitches in the same way.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and continue straight in pattern until 51 (51) ridges have been done from start.
Break off main shade yarn, and join in white yarn.

**Continue thus:
1st row (right side facing): k1, in the usual way, * k2 loops together winding wool round needle once - thus making an ordinary stitch; repeat from * to end. [61 (61) sts]
2nd row: In white yarn, k2tog, [p1, k1] 28 times, p1, k2tog.
3rd row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 29 times, p1.
4th row: In white yarn, p2tog, [k1, p1] 27 times, k1, p2tog.
5th row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 28 times, p1.
Change to No 11 needles and continue in rib with 2 rows main shade, 4 rows white, 2 rows main shade, and 4 rows white, and decreasing at each end of every alternate row.
Cast off in rib. **

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 26 (26) stitches and work about 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Break off yarn and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.

Front

Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109) stitches and work in pattern exactly as given for back, starting with 1st and 2nd
rows, until 11 (11) ridges have been done from start.
Here introduce pockets.

Next row (right side facing): pattern 9 (11), leave main shade yarn hanging, and join in white, [knit the next 2 loops together, winding wool once round needle] 26 times, slip these 26 white stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the time being; pick up the main shade yarn again and work across the 26 (26) stitches of one pocket lining thus [k1 winding wool twice round needle] 26 times, pattern across the next 30 (34) stitches of main work, again leave main shade yarn hanging, join in 2nd ball of white and work across the next 26 (26) stitches as before and leave on a spare needle or stitch holder; pick up main shade and work across 26 (26) stitches of 2nd pocket lining as before, pattern 9 (11).
Continue in pattern until 31 (31) ridges have been done from start, then with right side facing, shape armholes exactly as given for back, then work straight in pattern on the centre 60 (60) stitches until 41 (41) ridges have been done from start.
Break off main shade and and join in white.

With right side facing, work striped rib border for neck exactly
as given for back from ** to **.

Left sleeve

**
Using white yarn and No 11 needles, cast on 60 (60) Sts, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.
Join in main shade and rib 2 rows, then rib 4 rows white , increasing 1 stitch at each end of the last row; rib 2 rows main shade.

Change to No 9 needles and rib 3 rows in white.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib 3, [rib 7, increase in next st.] 7 times, rib 3. [69 (69) sts]
Break off white yarn.

Join in main shade and work first 3 rows of pattern as given for back.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop of 1st stitch instead of dropping it, keeping 2nd loop on left needle as before, pattern to end as given for 3rd pattern row.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop of 1st stitch instead of dropping it,
keeping 2nd loop on left needle as before, pattern to last stitch as given for 3rd pattern row, insert left needle into loop of last stitch of previous row, then knit these 2 stitches together, winding wool twice round needle [this gives an increase without leaving a hole].

Continue repeating the last row until there are 123 (123) stitches
Work straight until 36 (38) ridges have been done from start.
**

With right side facing shape top.
* Next row: Cast off 12 (12) as described before, pattern to last 12 (12) stitches , cast off the last 12 (12) stitches in the same way.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing rejoin yarn, and pattern back.
Repeat from * once more.
Next row: Cast off 25 (25) stitches, pattern to last 5 (5) stitches, cast
off the last 5 (5) stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and pattern back. [45 (45) stitches remain.].
Break off main shade.
Join in white and work striped ribbing, shaping as before.

Right sleeve

Work as for left sleeve from ** to ** [123 (123) sts].
Repeat from to once.
Next row: Cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to last 25 (25) stitches, cast off the last 25 (25) stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and pattern back.
Break off main shade.
Join in white and finish as before.

To Make Up

Do not press.
Using tailored seams, join side seams.
Pin sleeves very carefully into armholes, making sure you have the right sleeve in the right armhole, match the neck ribbing neatly at corners and pin straight edge of sleeve [side edge] to the 20 cast-off stitches at the back and front. Sew in position, then join the rest of the sleeve seam.

With No 11 needles and white wool, work a further 3 rows rib across each pocket top, then 2 rows main shade, 3 rows white; cast off in rib in white Catch down sides of pocket tops and pocket linings.

Press seams lightly.

Materials

19 (20) ozs Double Knitting, in main shade (Glamour Red - or Black);
2 oz in White.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

This pattern stitch is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 34-35 (36-37) inches; length from top of shoulders, 23 (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 14½ (15) ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SpringThickie2.jpg

January 2019

Jelly Bag Hat

JellyBagHat.jpg

This knitting pattern is not at all challenging (except maybe the 4 needles).
No - it's really all about the delightful picture - such a charming fresh-faced model with those decorous come-hither eyes - all combined with lovely bright colours designed to be cheering for the home makers during WW2.

This kind of quirky Wee Willy Winkie hat did become popular for a while, a few years ago but I haven't seen many around lately. Big pom poms are still the thing though....!

Materials

4 ozs mixed shades fingering, 2-ply.
Any odd balls of bright colours will do.

[Editor's note: the "2ply" is probably literally two plies but in yarn weight perhaps more like a 3 ply going by the stated tension,]

A set of four No 11 (3mm ) needles.

Instructions.

Cast on 120 stitches, 40 on each of 3 needles.
Work in rounds of stocking-stitch, changing colour, every 1½ inches.

When 6 inches are done start to decrease very gradually.
To do this knit 2 together at the end of each needle. (3 stitches decreased).
On the next decrease row knit 2 together into the backs of stitches This prevents the cap twisting always in one direction. Make these decreases about every 4 inches until there are 102 stitches left.

When cap is desired length k2tog all round, then draw wool through remaining stitches and fasten off.
For a shorter cap make decreases every 2 inches.

Finish off the end with a multicoloured wool pom-pom, but don't make
it too thick.

You may need to run thread elastic round cast-on edge to keep cap firm on the head.

Tension

8 stitches to an inch.

Size matters

Original cap is 30 inches long but you could make one 18 inches long that is perhaps more suitable for every day wear.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

December 2018

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningSoldiers1.jpg

If your 5-year-old is getting a box of soldiers then make him this amusing matching jersey
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the soldier motifs.

Suitable for all 5 year olds who aren't expecting an iphone, (and who like to play out of season cricket).

Instructions:

The jersey is worked in one size - stated as a 5 year old but remembering that children now tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid blue) cast on 84 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 85 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and changing from the main mid-blue wool to the pale blue as the background colour for the motifs, work the soldier pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

When 20 rows have been completed, change back to the mid-blue main shade and work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 8 inches.

Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of he next 2 rows. Then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 65 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 13¼ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until the first 2 rows of the armhole shaping have been done. [75 sts]

Now divide for the neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 35, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then keeping the armhole edge straight, and at the same time, decreasing at the neck edge on every following 3rd row until 24 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, armhole edge.

Join the wool to the remaining stitches, at the neck edge; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first half, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid-blue) cast on 48 stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 49 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work the 20 rows from the chart as for the back.

When these are done, change back to the main mid-blue wool and continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 63 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve measures 10½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and mid-blue main shade, pick up and knit 48 stitches down left front, 1 stitch from centre, 48 stitches up right front, and 18 stitches across back of neck.

Work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib; decreasing 1 stitch either side of centre front stitch on alternate rows.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.

Materials

3 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade (mid blue) and 1 oz in paler blue. Small balls in red and navy for the soldier motifs.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

30 sts and 38 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

One size - width all round chest 25 ins.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½ ins.
Sleeve seam: 10½ inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningSoldiers2.jpg

November 2018

Party tops

EveningTops1.jpg

Another "summer" top, which I always thought would be eminently suited to a winter cocktails evening, (and clearly they did too, as it is additionally shown in a black-tie setting). It's made in a fingering 2ply or laceweight yarn, with a stitch that forms "bubbles", which each have a sequin or bead sewn at the centre.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size only.

Backand Front alike

With No 12 (2½mm) needles cast on 108 stitches and work 4 inches k2/p2 rib.

Change to pattern thus:
[Editor's note: note that this pattern seems to include every possible way to describe putting the wool over the needle to make a lace pattern hole. The differences are just in the technique you have to use to get the wool wrapped round the needle.]

1st row (right side facing): * wrn, p2tog, won, k1, wfd, k1, wfd, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd - 6th rows: as 2nd row.
7th row: * wrn, p2tog, won, k1, (wfd, k1) 3 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * wrn, p2tog, p8, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
9th row: * wrn, p2tog, k8, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
10th row: as 8th row.
11th row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, (wfd, k1) 4 times, k2, wfd, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
12th row: * wrn, p2tog, p12, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
13th row: * wrn, p2tog, k12, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
14th row: as 12th row.
15th row: as 13th row.
16th row: as 12th row.
17th row: as 13th row.
18th row: as 12th row.
19th row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, (k3tog) 4 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
20th row: * wrn, (p2tog) 3 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
21st row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
22nd row: * wrn, p2tog, p2, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.

Rows 1-22 inclusive form the pattern.

Repeat these 22 pattern rows 3 times more.
Now continue repeating only the second pattern row while you divide for the neck thus:

Next row (right side facing): pattern 26. Turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge fairly loosely on the next 5 rows.

With right side facing, shape shoulder: by casting off 3 stitches loosely at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, at the same time, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row, 6 times.

Return to the remaining stitches; cast off the centre 56 stitches loosely, then work on last 26 stitches to correspond with the first shoulder.

Making Up

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams, then join sides leaving 7 inches open from shoulder seams for armholes.

Neck edging: With right side facing, work 2 rows of double crochet (American single crochet) all round the neck, then work picot edge thus:

* 4 chain, 1 dc in first of these 4 chain, 2dc in next 2 dc; repeat from * all round; fasten off.

Sew 1 sequin or bead in the centre of each stocking-stitch bubble, as shown in photograph, using a matching sewing cotton (you must sew on each sequin separately), then sew sequins about inch apart all round dc of neck.

Press seams.

Altering the size

It would be feasible to increase the size by knitting in a thicker yarn - but you do need to make a swatch and do some arithmetic.
Even changing to a 4 ply with 3¼mm needles could change your chest size from a modest 34 to over 40 inches.

All those "wool overs"

won: "wool over needle" - bring the wool over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.
(Used when you have just completed a purl stitch, but do not take the wool to the back of the work, before knitting the next stitch - the wool passes over the needle as you knit the next stitch).
wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle forming the pattern hole.
(Used when you have just completed a knit stitch, and you are purling the next stitch; you wind the wool once around the needle instead of simply bringing the wool to the back of the work).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
(Used when you have just completed a knit stitch, and you are knitting the next stitch).

Now you know everything.....

Materials

4 ozs Fingering 2 ply.

A pair of No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2½mm) needles.

No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook

Packets of sequins or beads.

Tension

34 sts x 42 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-35 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

won: "wool over needle".
wrn: "wool round needle".
wfd: "wool forward".

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

EveningTops2.jpg

October 2018

Prima Donna