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BrightChunky.jpg
BeautifulBrioche
WellWrapped.jpg
PartyFrills.jpg
DiamondSuit.jpg
OutInTheOpenHer.jpg OutInTheOpenHim.jpg
BeachTunic.jpg
KimonoCardigan.jpg
CapSleeveSummerTop.jpg
CoronationTwinset.jpg
SurfSeekers1.jpg
SurfSeekers2.jpg
GreenIsTheColour2
HighlandHarmony.jpg
SnowBaby.jpg
SixtiesTrouserSuit.jpg
PopSocks.jpg
CrochetDress.jpg
CoolCustomer.jpg
LongLacySweater.jpg
TweedDress.jpg
GentlemenPreferGrey.jpg
SetUpForTheCold.jpg
SnugToddlerGown.jpg
NordicCardigan3.jpg
CasualCountryWeekend.jpg
BeachMeshCoverUp.jpg
CottonTee.jpg
HolidayHat1.jpg
MadeForEachOther.jpg
SpringOutlook
FullerFigureTwinset.jpg
NordicSlipover3.jpg
ArgyllSocks.jpg
BeltedSweaters.jpg
PartyDress.jpg
CrochetCardi.jpg
Criss-Cross.jpg
BunnySlipovers.jpg
MansLumberJacket11.jpg
AgainstTheCold.jpg
TraditionalArans.jpg
SmockTops75.jpg
Lopi2019.jpg
CountrySlipover.jpg
MustardYellowSweater.jpg
SunSet1.jpg
3ozHighNeck.jpg
3ozLowNeck.jpg
CricketPullover.jpg
ColourfulBolero.jpg
SpringThickie1.jpg
JellyBagHat.jpg
ChristmasMorningSoldiers1.jpg
EveningTops1.jpg
OperaCoat.jpg
PlainJane.jpg
BoldColourSweater.jpg
SunHat3.jpg
DayBlouse.jpg
SweetheartSweaters.jpg
Blazer.jpg
ShetlandFolkTunic.jpg
ChristmasMorningPlane1.jpg
IrishKnotWrap.jpg
ShetlandFolkSweater.jpg
TeamMatesForOutdoors.jpg
BeachCoat1.jpg
SunHat1.jpg

BlushingBride.jpg
SunRayTop.jpg
TabardPullover.jpg
FrenchConnectionSweater.jpg
BeadedTop.jpg
LittleLumberJacket.jpg
PlaidSlipover.jpg
FringedWaistcoat.jpg
TennisDress.jpg
DiamondMarine.jpg

DucksSlippers.jpg
SashCardigan.jpg
Coatigan1.jpg
MidiCardigan2.jpg
LinedCape.jpg
WraparoundCape.jpg
ClassicSchoolPullover3.jpg
SwimSet.jpg
HolidayJumper3.jpg
AndyPandyRomper.jpg
DucksOnParade.jpg
GuernseySocks5.jpg
TweedCoat1.jpg
OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg
PonchoCape1.jpg
HoneycombCardigan9.jpg
SunJersey3a.jpg
SnappySwimSuit.jpg
PinStripedJumper.jpg
BunnySuits.jpg
BobbleCape1.jpg
CrossSeason1.jpg
Stormcheater.jpg
FiresideSlippers.jpg
FancyRibJacket.jpg
PrettyBolero.jpg
CrochetBootees.jpg
KnittedBootees.jpg
CrochetDress.jpg
MockCableMay1957.jpg
EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg
KnitForSpring.jpg
HeirloomShawlC.jpg
HoodedScarf3.jpg
NurserySlippers.jpg
Florence.jpg
P&BMoorlandJacket.jpg
ClocheCap.jpg
MansChequeredSweater.jpg
CoolTrend2c.jpg
CoolTrend1.jpg
BabyShawletteFront.jpg
WellySocks1.jpg
AliceBandBonnet3.jpg
ZipperedJackets1.jpg
ZipperedJackets1286.jpg
Sara-the-Mermaid.jpg
HoneycombBedsocks.jpg
SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg
SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg
FamilyFairIsle.jpg
JacobsBag.jpg

MuffetPinny.jpg
MuffetDress.jpg
NauticalTop2.jpg
LadyGloves1.jpg
LadyGloves2.jpg
ParisLine1.jpg
LivingAran2.jpg
WinterWonderHat6.jpg
BridgeJumper.jpg
SportSocks.jpg
AllYearTopBack.jpg
RaglanReeferB&W.jpg

CableYokealaMode.jpg
MatchingMittens.jpg
CosyCableSocks.jpg
BoyfriendCardigan.jpg
DaintyBolero.jpg
TennisSocks.jpg
PolkaDotTop.jpg
DucklingCardigan.jpg
ValentineBeadMit1.jpg
ValentineIntarsiaMit2.jpg
WinterWaistcoat1.jpg
HugMeTight2.jpg
LynsSocks1.jpg

EngagingTop1.jpg
TrimGloves1.jpg
PrettyWoolley3.jpg
BunnySlippers.jpg
Forces_mittens.jpg
Honeycomb_scarf2.jpg
SparklingStole.jpg
cable_beret.jpg
YachtingSweater.jpg
happi_robe.jpg
Cocktail_top.jpg
fichu.jpg
capelet.jpg
bedjacket.jpg

Entry Listings below or return to top for gallery view.

February 2024

Just add colour...

BrightChunky.jpg

Choose a colourful chunky knit to herald the Spring season to come.
It's still cold enough for a thicker woollen, but you can brighten up the dark days of February with this chunky sweater - which is also quick to knit!

Don't just stick with the naval theme - take inspiration from these Oliver Bonas knits: here, here, or here.

Instructions.

Back and Front (alike)

Using 4½mm needles, and W (white yarn), cast on 67 (71, 73, 77) stitches, and work 2 (2, , ) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 5 (7, 5, 7) * increase in next stitch; rib 7 (7, 8, 8); repeat from * to last 6 (8, 5, 7) stitches; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [75, 79, 81, 85 sts].

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Joining on and cutting off colours as required, proceed in pattern as follows, noting that stitches increased on Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 are decreased to the original number on Rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 14.

Row 1 (right side): knit with main shade W (white).
Row 2: Using W, p4 (6, 7, 9); [k 13, p5] 3 times; k13, p4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 3: Using W, k2 (4, 5, 7); [yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k1] 3 times; yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k2 (4, 5, 7).
Row 4: Using W, p5 (7, 8, 10), [k5, k3tog, k5, p7] 3 times; k5, k3tog, k5, p5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 5: Using W, k3 (5, 6, 8); [yfwd, k15, yfwd, k3] 3 times; yfwd, k15, yfwd. k3 (5, 6, 8).
Row 6: Using W, p6 (8, 9, 11); [k4, k3tog; k4, p9] 3 times; k4, k3tog, k4, p6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 7: Using W, k4 (6, 7, 9), [yfwd, k 13, yfwd, k5) 3 times, yfwd, k13, yfwd,. k4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 8: Using W, p7 (9, 10, 12), [k3, k3tog, k3, p11] 3 times, k3, k3tog, k3, p7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 9: Using R (red yarn), k5 (7, 8, 10); [yfwd, k11, yfwd, k7] 3 times, yfwd, k11, yfwd, k5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 10: Using R, p8 (10, 11, 13); [k2, k3tog, k2, p13) 3 times; k2, k3tog, k2, p8 (10, 11, 13).
Row 11: Using W, k6 (8, 9, 11); [yfwd, k9] 7 times; yfwd, k6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 12: Using W, p9 (11, 12, 14), [k1, k3tog, k1, p15] 3 times, k1, k3tog, k1, p9 (11, 12, 14).
Row 13: Using W, k7 (9, 10, 12), [yfwd, k7, yfwd, k11] 3 times, yfwd, k7, yfwd, k7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 14: Using W, p10 (12, 13, 15), [k3tog, p17] 3 times; k3tog, p10 (12, 13, 15).

Editors note: Now you repeat the same pattern sections but change the colours.

Rows 15 to 22: As Rows 1 to 8 but use R instead of W.
Rows 23 and 24
: As Rows 9 and 10 but use N instead of R.
Rows 25 to 28: As Rows 11 to 14 but use R instead of W.
Rows 29 to 36
: As Rows 1 to 8 but use N instead of W.
Rows 37 and 38
: As Rows 9 and 10 but use W instead of R.
Rows 39 to 42
: As Rows 11 to 14 but use N instead of W.

These 42 Rows form the pattern repeat them once more, then work Rows 1 to 14 again.
Now work Rows 1 to 14 once more. Cut off B and C.
Work 5 Rows in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Using 4½mm needles, and W, cast on 37 (37, 39, 39) stitches, and work 2 (2, , ) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 2; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 5 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 6 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; rib to end. [75, 75, 79, 79 sts]

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Following instructions for the 1st (1st, 2nd, 2nd) sizes work the 42 pattern rows as for the Back twice, then work rows 1 to 14 again.
Cast off.

To Make Up

See the yarn ball band for washing and pressing details.

Join shoulder seams leaving approximately 9 (, , 10) inches open at the centre for the neck.
Mark depth of armholes 8¾ (, , ) inches down from the shoulders on the back and front.
Set the sleeves in between the markers, then join the side and sleeve seams.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
6 (6, 6, 7) x 50g balls in main colour Snowdrop (white);
3 (3, 3, 3) balls in Grenadier (red); and
2 (3, 3, 3) balls in Navy (dark blue).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm) and No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Tension

17sts and 24 rows to 4 inches over pattern stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
35 (37, 38, 40) inches.
Editors note: This is intended to be a loose fit to suit a 32 - 38 inch chest size.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it.
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was:
65% Acrylic
20% Wool
15% Nylon - yardage not given

Note that chunky yarns can cover a wide variation in thickness so check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2024

Beautiful Brioche

BeautifulBrioche

Wonderfully cosy raglan sweater stitched in two vibrant colours. Fisherman's rib - or brioche as it now seems to be called, (no link to French bread as far as I can see) - is fantastically squishy and lovely - well worth the effort.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (right side): With B, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (right side): With A, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (wrong side): With B, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

  • When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
  • When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
  • When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 85 (89, 93) stitches and work in single rib:
**
1st row (right side)
: K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches (8cm) from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.
**
Increase row: Rib 6 (8, 10), [double increase, rib 7] 9 times, double increase, rib 6 (8, 10). [105 (109, 113) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue until work measures 13½ (14, 15) inches from the beginning.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (29, 29) times.

Cast off remaining 31 stitches for back neck.

Front

Work as for back until 114 (120, 124) rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan shaping; 39 stitches remain for all sizes, ending with a decrease row.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: Pattern 13, and leave these stitches on a holder; cast off the next 13 stitches; pattern to end.
Continue on these last 13 stitches now remaining on the needle.


***
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 6 rows, and then at the same edge on the next 2 alternate rows, and at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows; then decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every following 4th row twice.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the other set of 13 stitches, and complete in the same way, from *** reversing shaping.

Note that the front is overall 4 rows shorter than the back.

Left Sleeve

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (55, 55) stitches and work as for back welt from ** to **.

Increase row: Rib 4 (6, 6), [double increase, rib 13] 3 times, double increase, rib 4 (6, 6). [59 (63, 63) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 6 (8, 3) times, then every following 8th row 12 (10, 17) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.
[95 (99, 103) sts]

Continue straight until work measures 16 (16½, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a 3rd (5th, 5th) pattern row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 22 (23, 23) times; for all sizes 33 stitches remain, ending with a 5th pattern row.
****

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches for the back sleeve section on a spare needle; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for front section of sleeve.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 9 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 4 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for back sleeve section.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 5 times, then every following 4th row 3 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 5 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Note that front edge off sleeve is 4 rows shorter than back edge.

Right Sleeve

Work as for left sleeve to ****.

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches on a spare needle for front sleeve section; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for back section of right sleeve, and complete as for back section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for front sleeve section, and complete as for front section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Make Up and Neck Borders

Join front raglan seams and right back seam matching vertical stripes. With right side of work facing and using No 11 (3mm) needles, using main colour A, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the neck opening at the top of the left sleeve, 41 stitches round front neck edge, 15 stitches along neck opening at the top of the right sleeve and 32 stitches across the back neck.
Beginning with the 2nd row work in single rib as on the welt for 9 rows then cast off loosely ribwise.
Join left back raglan seam and the ends of the neck border.
Fold this border in half to the wrong side, and slip-stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.
Join side and sleeve seams.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - purple;
5 (6, 6) in contrast colour B - bright teal.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BeautifulBriocheDiagram

December 2023

Well wrapped up

WellWrapped.jpg

This is a pleasing and relatively simple set for a child, with a sweater and hat worked in a two-colour fair-isle pattern. To match, we have a plain coloured pair of mittens, and a simple pair of trousers - all in double knitting weight yarn.

Instructions

Sweater Back and Front alike:

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 11 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).

Work 10 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row. *
Change to No 9 needles, join in C, and work the pattern from the chart. Work the odd rows as knit, reading the chart from right to left, and repeating the 12 stitches before the dotted line to the last stitch, then k1 stitch beyond the dotted line. Work the even rows as purl, reading the chart from left to right, purling the first stitch (before dotted line), and then repeating the 12 stitches beyond dotted line to end.

WellWrappedChart.jpg

Continue until 3 complete patterns have been worked (or until work measures 16 inches from hemline), ending with a purl row.
Break off C.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch with MC.

Shoulder Shaping: Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Purl 1 row (hemline). Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row. Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 49 stitches.
Work as back to *.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for the back, increase 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there
are 61 stitches
Continue until the 26th row of the 2nd pattern has been worked (or until the sleeve measures 10 inches from the hemline).
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Trousers Right Leg:

Beginning at the ankle, with No 10 needles, and MC cast on 76 stitches. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch knit 1 row (hemline).
Change to No 9 needles and continue in stocking stitch until leg
measures 15 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.
Continue straight, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until there are 88 stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Mark each end of last row for the top of the leg.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until 68 stitches remain. Continue until work measures 24½ inches from hemline *, ending with a knit row. **

Shape back by working short rows thus:
Purl 12; turn, knit to end.
Purl 24; turn, knit to end.
Purl 36; turn, knit to end.
Purl 48; turn, knit to end.
Next row: Purl across all stitches.

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Trousers Left Leg:

Work as right leg to *, ending with a purl row.
Complete as right leg from ** but working knit instead of purl, and purl
instead of knit.

Hat:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 97 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row p1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back of sweater until one complete pattern from the chart has been worked (or until work measures 5½ inches), ending with a purl row.
Break off C and continue with MC only.

Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of 1st row. [96 sts].

Shape top thus:
Next row: (k2tog, k6); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k5); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k4); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 24 stitches remain. Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog); repeat to end. [12 sts]
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Mitts (make 2 alike):

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 39 stitches.
Work 2 inches rib as beginning of hat.
Change to No 9 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch.
Shape Thumb thus:
Next row: k19, pick up loop that lies before next stitch and knit it through back loop (referred to as make 1), k1, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k19, m1, k3, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Continue to increase in this way, working 2 stitches more between the increases on every alternate row until there are 51 stitches
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k32; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Next row: p14; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch on these 15 stitches
Next row: (k2tog, k 1) 5 times.
Next row: (p2tog) 5 times.
Break off wool, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and
fasten off securely.
Join thumb seam.

With right side facing and 32 stitches on right hand needle, rejoin yarn at the base of the thumb; pick up and knit 2 stitches at the base of thumb, knit the 6 stitches to the end of the row end. [40 sts].
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch on these stitches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k14, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k12, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: ( k2tog) across row to end.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press or block work.

Sweater: Join shoulder and neck facing seams.
Sew top of sleeves to sides, beginning and ending 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn in hems and catch-stitch in place.

Trousers: Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up hems and catch-stitch in place.
Join elastic in ring and attach to wrong side of waist with herringbone casing.

Hat: Join seam.
Make pompon and sew on top.

Mitts: Join seam.

Materials

Worked in a standard double knitting yarn (swatch as per tension given).

Sweater:
6 oz main colour, and 4 oz contrast.

Hat:
2 oz main colour, and 1 oz contrast.

Trousers:
9 oz main colour.

Mitts:
2 oz main colour.

Pair each of No 9 (3¾mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Waist length of elastic.

Tension

26sts to 4 inches over fair-isle, 24sts over stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

Sweater:
To fit 24 inch chest; length 16½ inches; sleeve: 10 inches.

Trousers:
Width around widest part 26 inches;
leg length 16½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

MC = main colour
C = contrast

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2023

Sparkling Party Frills for Fun

PartyFrills.jpg

A fun top intended for a metallic yarn, and perfect for the party season. I find metallics a bit scratchy, but there are now quite a lot of sparkly fingering weight yarns for you to choose from. [Always check your tension... I know you do...]

Beautifully shaped sleeveless silver jumper with frill gathered on to deep round neckline.

Instructions

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike:

With No 13 (2¼mm) needles cast on 112 / 120 / 128 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to end, finishing last repeat k3.
5th row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to end, ending last repeat k2.
7th row: as 3rd row.
9th row: knit
11th row: k7, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to last stitch, k1.
13th row: k5, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to last 3 stitches, k3.
15th row: as 11th row.
16th row: purl.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern and increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 128 / 136 / 144 stitches.
Then continue straight until work measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Armhole Shaping: Cast off 4 / 5 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Armhole Shaping:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 40, turn.
Continue on these stitches only, casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows; at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 7 rows.
Knit the last 2 stitches together and fasten off.

With right side facing, cast off the centre 28/ 32 / 36 stitches.
Complete to match the first side.

Frill (two pieces alike)

With No 12 needles and contrast edge colour, cast 168/ 184 / 200 stitches.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Break off contrast edge colour, join on main colour, and repeat the
16 pattern rows of the main part twice, then repeat 1st to 8th rows once more.
Next row: k 0 / 1 / 2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from * to end.
Change to No 13 needles. Beginning with a purl row, work 4 rows stocking stitch, then knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch for the casing.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press lightly.
Join side seams.

Armhole Edgings: With right side facing, using No 13 needles, pick up and k32 / 36 / 40 stitches around the armhole edge.
Knit 1 row. Cast off

Join side edges of frill. Fold cast-on edge to wrong side at hemline and sew down, leaving an opening to insert elastic.
Stitch centre of each "side" of the frill to the entire neck shaping of back and front, leaving remainder free at each side to complete armholes.
Thread elastic through casing; adjust to fit and join ends. Close opening.

Materials

Fingering 3 ply weight metallic yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 25g balls in main colour, and 1 ball for the edging detail.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm), and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to four inches

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 / 34 / 36 inches;
length: 18 / 18½ / 19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch [also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


A Word on the Wool.

The original yarn was Twilleys Goldfingering - available in 25g balls with a yardage of 100m (109yds), 80% Viscose 20% Metallised Polyester.
Although the Twilleys company wound up in 2007, Goldfingering is currently still fairly widely available - and in some rather inspiring colours. At time of writing, for example, the colour 05 silver is on special offer here, (the picture shows the colour "pewter" with edging in "ebony").

October 2023

Diamonds to Suit

DiamondSuit.jpg

Striking (or startling) sixties "costume" of a jacket with a matching dress or skirt. The colours are very much of the time, so it might be slightly more appealing to current taste if executed in, say, black or navy with a neutral white or cream (but if you like it, I expect you'd already thought of that!).

Instructions for Jacket and Skirt Suit

Jacket Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and B, cast on 80 / 84 / 88 / 92 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 10 / 12 / 4 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, * knit 4, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 9 / 11 / 3 / 5 stitches, knit 9 / 11 / 3 / 5.
[93 / 97 / 105 / 109 stitches]

With right side facing, change to No 7 (4½mm) needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: using D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: using D, * p2, with wool at front, slip 1 purlwise, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
3rd row
: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: using B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1. 6th row: using B, * slip 1, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until back measures approximately 14 inches, ending with 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until 69 / 73 / 79 / 83 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 6 / 2 / 5, p2tog, * p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last 4 / 5 / 3 / 4 stitches, purl 4 / 5 / 3 / 4.
[58 / 62 / 66 / 70 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until back measures 21 / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining 24 / 26 / 28 / 30 stitches.

Jacket Left Front

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 3 / 3 / 5 / 3, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 4 / 3 / 2 / 2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 4 / 4 / 6 / 4 stitches, knit 4 / 4 / 6 / 4.
[45 / 49 / 53 / 57 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and diamond pattern, starting with 1st pattern row, and work straight until front matches back at side edge, ending with 8th pattern row.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next and every alternate row until 33 / 37 / 40 / 44 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 4 / 3 / 1, p2tog, * purl 3 / 2 / 2 / 2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 3 / 3 / 3 / 1 stitches, purl 3 / 3 / 3 / 1.
[27 / 29 / 31 / 33 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until front measures 19½ / 20 / 20 / 20½ inches down centre.
With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on every row until 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

Jacket Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 40 / 42 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 11 rows garter stitch.
With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th/7th/7th/5th and every following 8th row, until there are 56 / 60 / 60 / 64 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 22 / 24 / 20 / 22 stitches remain. Purl back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 / 18 / 18 / 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 60 / 62 / 64 / 66 stitches and work in garter stitch, shaping collar by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 70 / 72 / 74 / 76 stitches
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 7 / 8 / 8 / 8, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 / 4 / 5 / 6 stitches; knit 6 / 4 / 5 / 6.
[78 / 80 / 82 / 84 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, knit 8 / 9 / 9 / 9, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches; knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[86 / 88 / 90 / 92 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row
: knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 9 / 10 / 10 / 10, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[ 94 / 96 / 98 / 100 sts]

Work 7 rows straight,
Next row
: * knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 10 / 11 / 11 / 11, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 8 / 6 / 7 / 8 stitches, knit 8 / 6 / 7 / 8.
[102 / 104 / 106 / 108 sts]

Work 7 rows straight. Cast off.

Front Bands

Right: With No 10 needles and B, pick up and knit 107 / 109 / 109 / 111 stitches up right front to start of neck shaping.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Make 7 buttonholes in next 2 rows as follows:—
Next row: knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5, (cast off 3, knit 13) 6 times, cast off 3, knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5.
Next row: knit, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Left: Work to correspond with right front band, omitting buttonholes.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Pin cast-on and increasing edge of collar all round neck, starting and ending in centre of front bands.
Sew neatly in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press stud under collar.

Skirt

First panel:
With No 10 needles and B, cast on 55 / 59 / 63 / 67 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch, (every row, knit).
Next row: knit, increasing 10 stitches evenly across.
[65 / 69 / 73 / 77 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: in D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
2nd row: in D, * p2, slip 1 purlwise, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
3rd row
: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: in B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
6th row: * slip 1, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work a further 4 / 8 / 10 / 16 rows straight in pattern.
Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 16th / 14th / 14th / 12th row until 51 / 53 / 57 / 59 stitches remain. **

Work 3 / 3 / 1 / 1 rows straight, then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until 31 / 33 / 35 / 37 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 20 / 20½ / 21 / 21½ inches down centre, ending with 8th pattern row.
Break D.

Change to No 10 needles, and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib in B.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Make 3 more panels the same, one for each side, and one more for back or front.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join seams.
Press seams.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join into a ring; sew inside top of skirt using herringbone stitch over elastic to form a casing.

Materials

Jacket:
15 / 16 / 17 / 18 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
4 / 4 / 5 / 5 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Skirt:
8 / 9 / 9 / 10 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
6 / 4 / 6 / 6 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.
½ inch wide elastic to fit waist.
1 press stud.

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

18sts and 25 rows to 4 inches in tweed yarn on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Jacket:
To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches;
sleeve seam: 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16

Skirt:
To fit hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length: 21/ 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches;

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed DK (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a finer yarn, and much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly, and the tension here aligns Bracken more towards being an Aran yarn rather than a DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Instructions for Dress

Skirt sections

Work panel as given for skirt above from ** to **.
[51 / 53 / 57 / 59 sts]

Work 9 / 9 / 7 / 13 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 10th row.
[47 / 49 / 53 / 55 sts]

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 16½ / 17 / 17½ / 18 inches down centre, ending with 4th pattern row, and increasing 1 stitch in the centre of this row for the 2nd and 4th sizes only.
[47 / 50 / 53 / 56 sts]

Break off B yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make another 3 panel sections the same, and number each panel 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Bodice back:

To make the bodice, arrange the stitches from the skirt panels as follows:—
Slip the first 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 and the last 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 on stitch holders.
With No 8 (4mm) needles, and right side facing, using D yarn knit the remaining 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 1, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 2, then knit remaining 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 3.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

*** Continue working back and forth in stocking stitch on these 94 / 100 / 106 / 112 stitches for the back, starting with a purl row and work 3 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 25 / 27 / 29 // 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, k2tog, k1 , k2togtbl, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29.
[78 / 84 / 90 / 96 sts]
Work 15 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitches and knitting into back of it, k1, increase 1 as before, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 34 / 36 / 38 / 40, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work straight until bodice measures 12½ / 12½ / 12 / 12 inches from start.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain. ***

Work a few rows straight until bodice measures 15½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.
Here divide for back opening: -
Next row: knit 33 / 35 / 37 / 39.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue straight on these 33 / 35 / 37 / 39 stitches for first side until bodice measures 19½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Purl back.
Leave the remaining 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side of back.

Bodice front:

With No 8 needles and right side facing, using D yarn, work as follows:—
knit 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 from the stitch holder, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 4, then knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 from the stitch holder.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work as for Bodice back from *** to ***.
66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain.
Continue straight on these stitches until bodice front measures 17½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:-
Next row
: knit 26 / 27 / 28 / 29.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue on these 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
[18 / 19 / 20 / 21 sts]
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, slip centre 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing, and using the set of No 10 needles, or circular needle, work in D yarn as follows:—
Knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from left side of back, increasing 2 stitches evenly; pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of front, knit 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches from centre front increasing 4 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 16 stitches up right side of front, knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from right side of back increasing 2 stitches evenly across.
[84 / 88 / 92 / 96 sts]

Arranging the stitches evenly on 3 needles, or using circular needle, work backwards and forwards in garter stitch (every row knitted) for 3 rows.
Next row: knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8, k2tog, * knit 10 / 10 / 11 / 11, k2tog; repeat from to last 5 / 7 / 6 / 8 stitches, knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8.
[77 / 81 / 85 / 89 sts]

Work a further 3 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Armbands: With right side facing, and using No 10 needles, work in D yarn as follows:—
Pick up and knit 76 / 76 / 84 / 84 stitches round each armhole.
Work 6 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Join side seams and armbands with a flat seam.
Insert zip into back opening allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams.

Materials

12 / 13 / 14 / 15 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")
6 / 7 / 7 / 8 x 1oz balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles or a circular needle.

A 5 inch zip fastener for back of dress.
[Editor's note: probably better to check the measurement once the bodice is completed.]

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 36 / 36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2023

Out in the Open Air

OutInTheOpenHer.jpg

Still beside the sea, as the weather turns cooler. An altogether pleasing design for jackets with broken cable pattern - for him: a zip closure with angled pockets, and for her: a smooth line with buttons.

Instructions for woman's jacket

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 122 / 128 / 136 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on the middle size only. [122 / 129 / 136 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change to No 6 needles and repeat from 1st to 34th rows inclusive once, then 1st to 24th rows inclusive once.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. ***

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armholes by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work a further 6 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 6th rows.

Repeat the last 6 rows until 32 / 37 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

For the 2nd size: work 4 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and 3rd rows.

For the 3rd size: work 8 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and then alternate rows.

For all sizes: cast off the remaining 32 / 33 / 34 stitches, firmly.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 / 80 stitches, and work exactly as for back to ***.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, work in rib to end.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
** Work a further 6 rows decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 6th rows.
Repeat the last 6 rows until 46 / 51 / 57 stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

SHAPE NECK:
For the 1st size continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off.

For the 2nd and 3rd sizes: continue decreasing as before but at each end of the needle until 31 / 21 stitches remain.
Now continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 10 / 14 stitches remain.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off. **

Right Front

Work exactly as for left front to the start of the armhole shaping, then work one more row in rib to end with the wrong side facing.

Now shape the armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
Work as for the left front from ** to **.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 40 / 40 / 42 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 5 / 5 / 10 stitches evenly across on the last row. [45 / 45 / 52 sts]

Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 2 / 2 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 89 / 91 / 98 stitches. Then continue straight until the 28th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape armhole exactly as for back until 43 / 43 / 48 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 9 / 5 / 6 stitches remain. Cast off.

Front Borders

Left: With No 7 needles, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows until border fits up edge of left front to the start of the neck shaping when slightly stretched.
Cast off evenly in rib. Sew in position.

Right: Work a similar strip for the right front, with the addition of 8 buttonholes; the first to come in the 5th and 6th rows up from the lower edge, and the 8th just below the start of the neck shaping, and the remaining 6 spaced evenly in between.
First mark the position of the buttons with pins on the left border to ensure even spacing and work the buttonholes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 4, cat off 3, rib 4; rib back, casting on 3 over those cast off.

When border is finished, cast off evenly in rib, and sew in position.

Collar

With No 7 needles, cast on 139 / 141 / 145 stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib as given for left front border, until collar measures 4 inches. Cast off 24 / 25 / 27 stitches at he beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join raglan, side and sleeve seams, matching patterns carefully.
Sew collar in position, placing ends to centre of front borders.
Press seams as above.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
14 / 14 / 15 x 2oz balls in snow white.

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

8 buttons.

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
35-36 / 37-38 / 39-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 / 25½ / 26 inches;
sleeve seam: 17 inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 



Out in the Open Air

OutInTheOpenHim.jpg

"The sporty out-door look is perfectly typified in this popular, but first-class looking, zipped jacket. Companion to the woman's jacket, in the same attractive crunchy broken rib pattern. Lovely waterside colour of deep, shimmering blue, lightweight, but windproof by the sea, in the special triple-knit texture."

Instructions for man's zipped jacket

Note: instructions are given for 2 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 136 / 142 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across on the last row. [143 / 150 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change back to No 6 needles and continue in pattern until 3 complete patterns have been completed from the start.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 103 / 98 stitches remain. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 41 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: rib 21 / 28 and slip these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder, cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape as follows:
Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [27 / 27 sts]
Break yarn and leave these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the last 21 / 28 stitches; cast on 3, and rib to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Continue in pattern, casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 46 / 53 stitches, taking the cast on stitches into the pattern as they are made, and ending at the side edge.

Now continue in pattern over all stitches, until front matches back at side edge, ending with wrong side facing.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape raglan armhole:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 / 22 rows. [59 / 54 sts]
Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge at the beginning of every alternate row until 36 / 37 stitches remain, thus ending with right side facing.

Shape neck:

Next row: cast off 12 / 13, pattern to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. P2. Cast off.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: pattern 52 / 52 and slip the remaining 21 / 28 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 27 stitches remain, ending at the front edge.

Break yarn and leave these 27 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to last 21 / 28 stitches.
Next row: cast on 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [46 / 53 sts]. Break wool.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn at front edge, and continue in pattern over all stitches, and finish to correspond with right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 48 / 52 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 11 / 14 stitches evenly across on the last row. [59 / 66 sts]

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 6 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 109 / 110 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Then continue straight until the 34th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 18 rows. [65 / 66 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5 / 6 stitches remain, ending with right side facing. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Collar

Join raglan seams, matching patterns.
With No 7 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 28 stitches round right side of neck, knit the 5 / 6 sleeve stitches, knit 41 /42 from
back increasing 8/5 stitches evenly across as you go, knit 5/6 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 28 stitches round left side of neck.
[115 / 115 sts.]

Next row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more

Next row (increases): rib 4, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it; rib to last 4 stitches, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it, rib 4.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Repeat the last 4 rows until the collar is 5 inches deep at the centre back, taking the increased stitches into the rib pattern.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Linings an Borders

Linings: With No 6 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 32 stitches along top slope of each pocket and work 4 inches in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off.
Borders: With No 7 needles, pick up and knit 34 stitches along lower slope of each pocket and work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib,
Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join side and sleeve seams matching patterns.
Catch down pocket linings and borders to main work.
Work a row of double crochet (US = single crochet) along the edge of each front.
Insert zip fastener into front opening, allowing crochet edging to
meet over zip to conceal it.
Press all seams as before.

Materials

Aran yarn:
18 / 19 x 2oz balls in in gendarme blue

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

A zip fastener (double-ended - suitable for a jacket).
[Editor's note: no length is suggested for the zip, and probably better to measure, or monitor the length as you make the jacket.]

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
39-40 / 41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 27½ / 27½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18½ / 18½ inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2023

Beach Tunic or Poncho

BeachTunic.jpg

Beach cover-up, which can be made as a sleeveless tunic top (above), or a poncho/tabard (below) -- great for a sandy beach, after a refreshing dip on an English summer's day!

"Poncho wrap to slip on after a bathe, ties loosely at the sides -- warm but light weight, it's the perfect cover-up for after-swim. Tunic uses the same vivid design, to give you a play sweater for the beach to wear over tiny shorts."

Instructions for Tunic

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 121 / 121 / 127 stitches, and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Break off W.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [130 / 130 / 136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [121 / 121 / 127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 9 needles and work 42 / 46 / 50 rows straight in stocking stitch in main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 8 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 9 needles and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, in W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 9 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [111 / 111 / 117 sts].

When the neck shapings are complete, work 34 / 38 / 42 rows straight in stocking stitch using W, starting with a knit row.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 8 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

Ribbed Border

Front: with right side facing, using W wool and No 9 needles, pick up and knit 114 / 120 / 126 stitches evenly along the lower edge.
Work 10 / 14 / 10 rows in k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.
Work the back ribbed border in the same way.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth, avoiding the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.

Turn with 1 chain, and work a further 3 rows dc, turning with 1 chain
at the end of every row.
Fasten off.

Join the left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armholes: Measure 6¼ / / inches from the top of the shoulder down the side edge on the back and front, and mark with pins.
With right side facing, W wool and crochet hook, work a row of dc between the pins. Work a further 3 rows dc, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row. Fasten off.
Work the other armhole in the same way.

Join side and border seams; press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
2 / 2 / 2 oz in each of green (G) and red (R);
1 / 2 / 2 oz in blue (B);
1 / 1 / 1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

23sts and 31 rows to four inches on 3¾mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
33-34 / 35-36 / 37-38 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: green
R: red
B: blue
Y: yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


TunicPonchoChart.jpg


BeachPoncho.jpg

Instructions for Poncho

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 127 stitches, and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 7 needles and work 26 rows straight in stocking stitch using main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 6 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 7 needles and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, using W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 7 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [117 sts].
Break off B.

When the neck shapings are complete, work 18 rows straight in stocking stitch using W.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 6 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth.

Neck edging front: with right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.
Turn with 1 chain.
Work a 2nd row of dc.
Fasten off.
Neck edging back: work as for front.

In the same way, neaten the side edgings by working a row of dc down the right side of the front, along the lower edge, and up the other side; turn with one chain, and work a 2nd row.
Fasten off.

Work a crochet edging on the back in the same way.

Join shoulder seams.
Press seams and edgings.

Make ties: with 3 strands of W, or contrast yarn, make 4 lengths of crochet chain, about 20 inches long. Sew one length to each side of front and back, about 3½ inches in from the side and 10 inches up from the lower edge.
Tie as shown in the photo.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
10 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
3 oz in green (G);
2 oz in tangerine (R);
2 oz in blue (B);
1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 6 (5mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

20sts and 25 rows to four inches on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width across front measured flat:
22 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: lime green
R: tangerine
B: royal blue
Y: sun yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a blend of wool and acrylic, making it so-called "light weight", though it's an Aran or worsted weight yarn.
A cotton blend might be pleasanter for the beach.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

July 2023

Kimono Cardigan

KimonoCardigan.jpg

A very feminine coatlet to crochet in cotton for the summer. Its boxy shape gives it a little more edge for styling successfully with jeans and a tee, as well as more conventionally with a breezy summer frock.
The design is constructed from motifs made using in a fairly fine cotton on a 1.5 mm hook, so it might be more of an heirloom project - the month of June always brings weddings to mind.

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets
The top is made up by joining a number of crocheted square motifs.

Special instructions: make cluster

This is a 3 dtr cluster made by working 3 dtr together as follows:

* yoh twice, insert hook into stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * twice more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

When working a cluster at the beginning of the round, work as follows:

3ch (counts as first dtr), * yoh twice, insert hook into same stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * once more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

Basic Motif

Make 6 ch, close circle with 1 slip stitch.
Work in rounds.
1st round: work 12 dc into the centre of the circle, joining to first dc with a slip stitch.
2nd round: make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch; (make cluster, 3ch) 11 more times. Join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.
3rd round: slip stitch into the next chain space, make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch, make cluster into the same ch space, * (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch; (make cluster, 3 ch, make cluster) all in next chain space; repeat from * twice more.
End with (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch, and join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.

Make 298 (332) identical motifs. These are then joined in strips of various lengths in order the build up the cardigan shape.

Joining motifs

Make sure the motifs are all the same side up when you start to join them. Work as follows: join to the corner of the second completed motif, then make 2 ch, then 1dc into the loop on the corner of previous motif. Continue thus, with 2 ch, 1 dc into each of the following loops, alternating between each of the two motifs.

Below is an example of the motifs with the joining stitches shown in a different colour.

Lower edge of cardigan (back and fronts)

Make 7 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 7 motifs which is the back and fronts worked together up to the armholes).

Back (top and sleeves)

Make 5 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 5 motifs which is the back and sleeves worked together from the armholes up to the shoulders).

Right front (top and sleeves)

Make 3 strips of 9 (10) motifs and then join them.
Make 2 strips of 7 (8) motifs and then join them to the previous piece,
staggering them 2 motifs to the left for the front neck.

Left front (top and sleeves)

Work in the same way,the opposite way round.

Putting it all together

The assembly diagram below shows the smaller size, which requires you to join the bottom of the cardigan to the top sections centred across an uneven number of squares (9) - so involves joining a "half square". The larger size has an even number (10).
All the motifs are made in the same colour - the colour coding below is just to help understand how the sections are joined together.

Join the lower section to the top, joining the centre 9 (10) motifs for the back - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (b) -
and join the 4½ (5) motifs at each end for the fronts - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (c) for the right front and (b) and (d) for the left front.

Join the top of garment across the shoulders and tops of sleeves. (There are 7 (8) motifs each side.)

Iron lightly on wrong side of work.

Stitch the sleeve seams - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (g) for the right sleeve and (b) and (h) for the left sleeve.

Work 5 rows of dc all round the sweater, working a little tighter round
the neckline.
Work 5 rows of dc around each sleeve edge.

Sew in all ends. (I would advise sewing in ends on each motif as you go since this can be a rather daunting task if they are all left to the end).


A Word on the Wool

This is made using cotton 8, which is fine but not that fine.
For comparison, the sort of cotton you would use to make doilies would have been typically (Coats) cotton 20 - and the bigger the number the finer the thread.

You can find cotton 8 on line as rather expensive fine crochet cotton by the likes of DMC, or in more budget versions from bulk distributors such as Hobbii.

The key criteria to look for (even if it's called cotton No 8) is a knitting gauge - often printed on a ball band - of 39 sts x 59 rows to 10 cm square on 2mm needles; and a yardage of something like 285 meters to 50g.
After that you should experiment making a motif or two using a 1½mm hook, and then varying the hook size if necessary to get the right size.

If you want to make this in a fine wool then laceweights would probably suit (again be sure to try a motif). I implied above that the yardage could be used as an indication of suitable thickness when substituting, but not if you are substituting with wool because it has a different density to cotton. You can use the yardage as a guide to how much yarn to purchase to make this garment, but not for any indication of suitable thickness.

Materials

7 (8) x 50g balls cotton No 8 in colour "Heliotrope".

1.5 mm crochet hook

Tension

Each motif measures 5cm, (2 inches)

Size matters

10-12 / 14-16
[32 - 34 / 36 - 38 inch chest]

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
yoh: yarn over hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2023

Cap-sleeve summer top

CapSleeveSummerTop.jpg

An understated casual top for summer from the 1950s. "Suits all sizes" - but only up to a 38 inch chest!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back

**
With No 13 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 114 (122 : 130) stitches and work 4 inches in k1/p1 rib, working into the backs of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted effect.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 15th and every following 6th row until there are 132 (140 : 148) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 11½ (12 : 12) inches, ending with a purl row.
**

Here shape the underarm by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 8 knit rows: [148 (156 : 164) sts]
Work straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ ( : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off he remaining 40 (40 : 44) stitches fairly loosely.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** : [132 (140 : 148) sts]
Continue straight until front measures 11½ inches from purl ridge.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k55 (59 : 63), turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for the first shoulder, increasing at the underarm at the beginning of the next 7 knit rows: [64 (68 : 72) sts].
Purl back.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping neck edge by knitting 2 stitches together at the end of the next and every following 6th row 10 (10 : 12) times in all. Work a few rows straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ ( : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows at the armhole edge

With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches, slip the centre 20 (20 : 20) stitches on a spare needle, knit to the last stitch, increase in the last stitch.
Work the right side to correspond with the left.

Collar

For all sizes: Join shoulder seams.

Right half: With No 11 needles k20 from spare needle at the front, increasing 1 stitch in the centre to 21 stitches, and work in moss stitch as follows:

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Next row: k2, (purl into the front then knit into the back of the next stitch), moss stitch to end.
Continue in moss stitch, increasing 1 stitch inside the 2 border stitches on the next 5 rows: [37 sts]
Continue in moss stitch,keeping garter stitch border as before, until piece fits up right side of neck to shoulder, then round to centre back of neck.
Cast off in moss.

Left half: With No 11 needles, cast on 21 stitches.

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more, then finish to correspond with right half.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing. With right side facing and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 124 (124 : 128) stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Press facing.
Join side and underarm seams.
Turn facing to wrong side and slip-hem all round.
Join collar neatly at back of neck with a flat seam.
Sew cast-on stitches for left side of collar at back of right border at start of neck; pin centre of collar to centre back of neck, then sew neatly in position all round.
Press seams.


A Word on the Wool

3 ply weight might be a bit hard to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet, I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Susan Crawford offers a lovely range of bright colours in Fenella which is designed for use with 3 ply vintage patterns.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Materials

6 (6 : 7) ozs 3 ply crepe in "Flamingo"

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36 : 37-38) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 20 (20½ : 21) inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2023

Coronation Twinset

CoronationTwinset.jpg

Just to mark the occasion, for a child (from 3-4 years apparently): a cute little twin set with royal processional motifs.
Even if you don't make this twinset for the event, it has some cute military motifs, which cleverly catch the essence of the servicemen depicted despite the simplicity of the design.

This pattern was created to mark the Queen's coronation in 1953 and depicts the historic Gold State Coach; the latter will also be used by King Charles - but only for the somewhat shorter procession back to the Palace after his Coronation on May 6th. For the outward journey, the more modern and altogether more comfortable Diamond Jubilee Coach will be used.

Instructions:

Motifs may be worked in Fair Isle or embroidered when garment is completed.
When working Fair Isle use separate balls of the contrasting colours for each motif. Always twist the wools round each other when changing colour to avoid leaving a hole.
Knitters may find it easier to ensure a tight edge by knitting the first and last stitches on every purl row.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a full version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

THE JUMPER

Jumper Front

Using No 13 needles and gold (L) wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and white (W) wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 2 rows in white (W).
In the next row commence motif working the 43 rows from chart 1.

Work 1 row in white (W).
Join in gold (L).
**
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
**
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
In the next row commence the motif working the first 14 rows from chart 2.

Shape the Armholes

Continuing to work from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work straight until the 39 rows of chart 2 are completed.
Work 4 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L.
*** Continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: * 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
***
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck
Next row: Knit 32, cast off 17, knit to end.

Now work on and finish each side separately:
Work 1 row.
Keeping arm edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then every alternate row until there are 27 stitches left, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Still decreasing 1 stitch on every alternate row at the neck edge, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are eliminated.

Rejoin the wool to the other side at the neck edge and complete to match the 1st side.

Jumper Back

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Work 46 rows.
Join in L.
Now work as Front from ** to **.
Cut L.
Work 17 rows in W.
Continue in W.

Shape the Armholes:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work 16 rows in W.
Join in L.
Now work as for Front from *** to ***.
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 12 rows.

Shape the Shoulders:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of every row until there are 33 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool, cast on 60 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Next row (increase row): Rib 4, * increase once in the next stitch, rib 3, repeat from * to end. [74 sts].
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.

Work until sleeve measures 2½ inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 54 stitches left, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 34 stitches left, and then 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 22 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Neck Band

Join the right shoulder seam.
Using No 13 needles, with right side of work facing you, and using L wool, knit up 80 stitches round the neck.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up the jumper

Press or block each piece separately with a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the collar and cuff of the Queens' robe in white, and the horses' reins in black.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side and sleeve seams.
Sew left shoulder seam for 1¼ inches from arm edge.
Set in sleeves.
With L wool work 2 rows of double crochet, (US: single crochet), along shoulder opening making, 3 small button loops on the front edge.
Sew on buttons to match.
Press seams.


THE CARDIGAN

Instructions have been given for a boys' cardigan.
If a girls' cardigan is required, the work buttonholes in the right front instead of the left front.

Cardigan Back

Work as for back of jumper.

Cardigan Right Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib to the last 14 stitches, put these 14 stitches on a safety pin for the front band.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) and W. wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 4 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the 36 rows from chart No. 3.

Work 6 rows in W.
Join in L.
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the first 15 rows from chart No 4.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 35 rows of the motif are complete.
Work 8 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L and continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
2nd row: 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L.
4th row: 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L.
6th row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, .3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
8th row: 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
Cut L.
Continue in W, and work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches, work to end.
Work 1 row.
Now keeping armhole edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then on every alternate row until there are 27 stitches remaining, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Continue to decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge, and at the same time, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and
alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are cast off.

Cardigan Left Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ of an inch.
In the next 2 rows make buttonholes as follows:
Next row: Rib 6, cast off 2, rib to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off on the preceding row.

Continue in rib, making one more buttonhole 1½ inches from the 1st until work measures 3 inches from cast on edge ending at centre-front edge.
Next row: Rib 14 stitches and place on safety pin for the front band, rib to end.
Change to No 12 needles and work in stocking stitch using W wool.

Commence 1st panel.
Work 4 rows in W.
In the next row commence motif working the 36 rows from chart 5.
Work 6 rows in W.

Join in L, and continue as follows :
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W,
1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W; repeat from * once more.

7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L
Commence 2nd panel.
Work 3 rows in W
In the next row start working the motif, working the first 14 rows from chart 6.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from the chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 36 rows of the motif are complete.

Work 7 rows in W ending with a knit row.
Join in L
Continue as follows:
1st row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W.
3rd row: 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
5th row: 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W.
9th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
Cut L.

Continue in W
Work 1 row.
Shape neck and complete to match the Right Front.

Cardigan Borders

Left front border:
Rejoin L wool to the stitches left on safety pin and using No 13 needles work in rib making 6 more buttonholes at 1½ inch intervals. Work a further ½ inch after the last buttonhole has been worked.
Cast off.
Work the right front border the same way omitting buttonholes.

[Editor's note: In case of tension variations, you may wish to make the plain border first - which will be the right border for a boy and the left border for a girl - so you can see how many rows you need to fit nicely up the front; you can then work out how best to place the buttonholes evenly up the other side.]

The Collar

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 137 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.
5th row: k1, p1, k2tog, rib to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, p1, k1.
Repeat, this decrease on every 4th row until there are
123 stitches left.
Work 3 rows.
Cast off in rib.

Cardigan Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 50 stitches.
Work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 74 stitches.
Work without further shaping until sleeve measures 10 inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape top as for jumper sleeve instructions.

Making up the cardigan

Press each piece separately with a warm iron and damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the horses reins in black, and the sailors collar and hat band in white as shown on the diagram.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side, shoulder and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves. Sew borders to fronts.
Sew cast off edge of collar round neck edge starting and finishing at centre front edges.
Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:

Jumper:
2oz White (W)
1oz Linga Gold (L)
Oddments in Scarlet, Black, Pink, and Light Grey.

Cardigan:
3oz white
2oz gold
Oddments in scarlet, black, pink, royal blue, yellow, and tan.
8 buttons.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.
1 "medium" crochet hook.

Tension

36sts and 48 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

Instructions for 3-4 years.
Chest 23 inches; length 13 inches; sleeve seam: 2¾ inches (jumper) or 10 inches (cardigan).

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2023

Surf Seekers - overblouse

SurfSeekers1.jpg

I love this brilliantly coloured overblouse - a taste of the Aegean. It can be paired with the sparkling white classic sweater (also in the April entry and shown under the overblouse in the photo), making for a two-piece with just the right look of colour dash for a sixties Continental beach holiday.

Instructions

Instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Carry wool loosely behind slip stitches in pattern to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 120 / 128 / 132 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1 / p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [121 / 129 / 133 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl). Leave yarn M hanging and join in turquoise yarn (T).

1st row (right side facing): in T, k1, * slip 3 purlwise, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: in T, p2, * sl1 purlwise, p3; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p2.
3rd row: knit in T.
4th row: purl in T.
Leave T wool hanging; join in white yarn (W).
5th-8th rows: as 1st to 4th rows in W.
Leave W wool hanging.
9th-12th rows: as 1st to 4th rows in teal blue colour (M).

These 12 rows form pattern. **

Carrying wools loosely up the side of the work, continue in pattern and work straight until back measures 16 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 91 / 95 / 99 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 24 / 24½ / 25 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 7 / 7 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, then 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 37 / 39 / 41 stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Continue in straight in pattern until front measures 9 inches at centre.

Here divide for front opening:

Next row: right side facing, pattern 54 / 58 / 60, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work straight until front measures the same as the back at the side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole and neck edge as follows:

Next row: cast off 6 / 7 / 8, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: work in pattern.

Now continue to shape armhole edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 8 / 9 / 8 alternate rows, and at the same time shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the 5th row, then at this edge on every following 6th row.

When the armhole shapings are done, keep this edge straight but continue to decrease at the neck edge on every 6th row as before until 27 / 28 / 29 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 7 / 7 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder. Cast off the centre 13 stitches, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 52 / 56 / 60 stitches, and work 2 inches twisted k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[53 / 57 / 61 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl). Leave yarn M hanging, join in turquoise yarn (T), and work 12 rows in pattern as for back.
Continue in pattern and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 87 / 91 / 95 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18 inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 37 / 37 / 37 stitches remain.
Next row (should be a wrong side row): in pattern.

Now (right side facing) cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and 4 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 19 stitches.

Front Border

Join shoulder seams.
Using No 10 needles and M wool, cast on 20 stitches and work 1 inch in twisted k1/p1 rib.

Make a buttonhole in next 2 rows thus:
Next row: rib 7, cast off 6, rib to end.
Next row: work back in rib, casting on 6 over those cast off.
Continue in rib, working a further 2 buttonholes as before at 3-inch intervals.
Work straight until border fits up right front, round back of neck and down left front when slightly stretched; sew in position as you go along.
Cast off in rib.

Collar

Begin by winding off a small ball each of M and T yarns.
Using No 10 needles and M yarn, cast on 196 stitches, and work 6 rows in twisted rib.
Next row: rib 10 M, join in main ball of T and knit to the last 10 stitches in T, join in 2nd ball of M, and rib 10 in M.
Editors note: You are using an intarsia technique here, where the colour changes are joined vertically, so make sure you wind the threads around each other when you start a new colour, to avoid holes.

Next row: rib 10 M, rib 176 in T, rib 10 M.
Repeat the last row 4 times more.
Next row: rib 10 M., rib 10 T, join in W and knit to the last 20 stitches in W; join in 2nd small ball of T, rib 10 T, rib 10 M.
Next row: rib 10 M, rib 10 T, rib 156 W, rib 10 T, rib 10 M.
Repeat the last row until work measures 6 inches.

In rib and using appropriate colours, cast off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.

Join side and sleeve seams ; insert sleeves.
Sew lower edges of front border neatly in position to main work, right edge over left.
Pin cast off edge of collar in position on wrong side of work on seam of ribbed border and main part, making sure ends are level on fronts.
Sew in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
11 / 11 / 12 x 1oz balls in main shade (M), teal blue;
7 / 8 / 8 oz in gay turquoise (T);
4 / 5 / 5 oz in snow white (W).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

3 large buttons.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 24½ / 25 / 25½ inches;
sleeve seam:
18 / 18 / 18 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
M: main teal blue
T: turquoise
W: white

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Surf Seekers - sweater

SurfSeekers2.jpg

Sparkling white classic sweater which can be teamed with the overblouse (also in the April entry, and pictured in the background here) - for "a two-piece with just the right look of colour dash for a Continental beach holiday". The short-sleeved sweater is long enough to wear over shorts, and the fairly high round turtle band just shows at the neck of the overblouse.

This could also be teamed up with the Sail Away Pullover from POM April 2017, (another favourite of mine).

Instructions

Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

**
With No 10 needles cast on 100 / 106 / 110 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1 / p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on 2nd and 3rd sizes. [10 / 107 / 111 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl), and work straight until back measures 15 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then k2tog at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 76 / 79 / 83 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 19 / 19½ / 20 inches at centre.

With right side facing, divide for back opening:

Next row: right side facing, pattern 38 / 39 / 41, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work straight until back measures 22½ / 23 / 23½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Purl 1 row and leave remaining 15 / 15 / 16 stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder. For 2nd and 3rd sizes only, cast off the centre stitch, then knit to end for all sizes. [38 / 39 / 41 sts]
Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Continue in straight in pattern until front measures 21 / 21½ / 22 inches at centre.

With right side facing divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 30 / 31 / 32, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Then with wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row; then decrease 1 stitch at this (neck) edge on the following 3 rows. [23 / 24 / 25 sts]

Work a few rows straight until front measures the same as the back at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then cast off the remaining 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, slip the centre 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder, rejoin the wool to the remaining 30 / 31 / 32 stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder, and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles, cast on 62 / 66 / 70 stitches, and work 1 inch in twisted k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 stitches evenly across the last row.
[64 / 68 / 72 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl), and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 70 / 74 / 78 stitches.

Work a few rows until until sleeve measures 3½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 / 34 / 34 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.

Now (right side facing) cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and 4 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 16 stitches.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband:
With right side facing, and No 10 needles, knit across 15 / 15 / 16 stitches from back neck, pick up and knit 20 stitches down left side of neck, knit 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from centre front, and pick up and knit 20 stitches up right side of neck. Then knit across the 15 / 15 / 16 stitches at the back neck. [86 / 87 / 91 sts].
Work 1½ inches in twisted k1/p1 rib stitch; cast off in rib.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew zip into position at the back.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
12 / 13 / 14 oz in snow white

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

6 inch zip.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 23 / 23½ / 24 inches;
sleeve seam: 3½ inches, all sizes

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2023

Green is the colour...

GreenIsTheColour2

Celebrate St Patrick's Day in style in this emerald sweater with unusual cable pattern.

Instructions.

Instructions are (unusually for this era) given for only one medium/small size.
This is originally a French pattern, and before you begin, I recommend you read through the instructions thoroughly, and refer to the photographs, in order to understand how the pattern progresses.

Vertical cable stitch:

Editors note: You begin working the diagonal pattern, and then gradually move to this vertical cable. So these instructions are incorporated into the diagonal pattern below.

Made over 4 stitches in stocking stitch:
On every 6th row, make a cable by slipping the first 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work, knitting the next 2 stitches, then knitting the 2 stitches from cable needle.

Diagonal pattern stitch:

1st row: Cast on 1 stitch, (edge stitch) then, * p6, k1, increase 1 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6.
Cast cast on 1 stitch (edge stitch)
2nd and every even numbered row: k1, (edge stitch); purl to the last stitch, k1, (edge stitch).
3rd row: k1, (edge stitch); * p5, slip the next 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work: knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k1 (edge stitch).
5th row: knit twice into the first stitch, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, knit twice into the last stitch.
7th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p4, k1, p3, k1.
9th row: k1, p3, * Cross the Cable by slipping 3 stitches on to the cable needle, place to the back of the work, k2, then k2, p1 from cable needle; p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k2, p3, k1.
11th row: k1, p2, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k3, p3, k1.
13th row: k1, p1, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k4, p3, k1.
15th row: k1, * Cross the Cable as in the 9th row, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p5, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
17th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k3, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k4, p3, k1.
19th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k2, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p7, k4, p3, k1.
21st row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k1, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross the Cable as in the 9th row *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p8, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
23rd row: k1, p5, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p9, k4, p3, k1.
25th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending after the last oblique cable with p4, k1, p5, k4, p3, k1. This marks the beginning of a new vertical cable at 5 stitches from the first vertical cable as on the 7th row. Continue thus, forming new vertical cables in the same way as the work proceeds, with the oblique cables petering out at the right side edge.

Front:

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 94 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib (beginning first row p2), for 4 inches .
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in pattern (109 stitches at the completion of the 5th row).
When the work measures 11½ inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Armholes,by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; and 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 6 rows.

Continue to work in pattern until the work measures 15½ inches from the top of the ribbing, then Shape the Neck by casting off the centre 21 stitches, and then finish each side separately.
At the neck edge on alternate rows, cast off 4 stitches once, 2 stitches once, and 1 stitch 3 times. Continue to work in pattern until the armhole measures 7½ inches then Shape the Shoulders:
at the armhole edge on alternate rows, cast off 6 stitches 4 times.

Back:

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 94 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib (beginning first row p2), for 4 inches .
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in pattern, omitting to to work the increase at each side edge on the 1st and 5th rows, so at the completion of the 5th row there are 105 stitches on the needle.
Begin the 1st row with k1 (edge stitch), p5, k1, increase 1 etc...
and end it with p5, k1 (edge stitch).
Begin the 3rd row with k1 (edge stitch), p4, then cross the stitches, and end with p5, k1 (edge stitch)
Begin the 5th row with with k1 (edge stitch), p3, and end it with p5, k1 (edge stitch).

Continue the pattern, working 2 stitches fewer at the beginning and end of rows.

When the work measures 11½ inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Armholes,by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; and 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

When the work measures 18 inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Neck, by casting off the centre 23 stitches, and then finish each side separately.
At the neck edge on alternate rows, cast off 4 stitches once, 2 stitches twice, and at the same time Shape the Shoulders:
at the armhole edge on alternate rows, by casting off 6 stitches 4 times.

Sleeves:

With No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 48 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib for 4½ inches.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in garter stitch (every row knitted), increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 16th row 6 times.

When the work measures 13 inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape Top, by casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th rows twice.
Then cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 28 rows, 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and finally cast off the remaining 14 stitches.

Neckband:

With the No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 110 stitches, and work in garter stitch for 3 rows. Cast off.

To Make Up:

Sew up the side and shoulder seams.
Sew the sleeve seams and set in the sleeves.
Join the neckband into a ring and sew it around the neck edge.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting: 8 x 50g (synthetic fibre = 1000 metres)

A pair each No 8 (4mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.
A cable needle.

Tension

23 sts x 48 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 34 inch bust.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

Cross5: slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle, place at back of work, k4, then purl the stitch from the cable needle.

increase: increase by knitting twice into the next stitch.

decrease: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

stocking stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side (aka stockinette).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2023

Highland Harmony

HighlandHarmony.jpg

A fairly timeless design for a man's Fair-Isle sweater in lovely muted shades of Shetland wool. As I love this kind of colourwork, and I love men's fashions, it's definitely a hit with me - a lovely gift for a (very) deserving man...

Instructions:

The pullover is given in one (medium man's) size and is worked using the Fair-Isle technique, with colours not in use stranded loosely across back of work.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 175 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles, and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart thus: reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 87 pattern stitch repeat twice across.

HighlandHarmonyChart-main2.jpg

HighlandHarmonyChart-key.jpg

Continue working rows from the chart until the 12th row of the 4th pattern repeat has been completed. **

Armhole shaping: cast off 13 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until the 18th row of the 6th pattern repeat has been completed.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for the back until **.

Armhole and neck Shaping:
Next row: cast off 13, pattern 74. Turn.
Purl back in pattern.
Continue on these 75 stitches only.
Next row: knit in pattern to last 4 stitches; k2tog, k2.
Next row: purl in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 61 stitches remain, then decrease in the same way at the neck edge on every 4th row until 52 stitches remain.
Work 7 rows.
Cast off.

Join wool to inner (neck) edge of the remaining stitches.
Cast off 1 stitch, and complete to match the first side, working "sl1, k1, psso" instead of k2tog for the neck shaping.

Sleeves

Begin at the top of the sleeve.

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 135 stitches. Knit one row.

Beginning with the 16th row of the chart (a purl row worked from left to right), work thus:
Work 1 stitch to the right of the dotted line, work the (next 6 stitches) 5 times, work the last stitch.

HighlandHarmonyChart-sleeve2.jpg

Continue in pattern as set, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 5th row until 87 stitches remain.
Continue straight until 4 complete patterns have been worked.
Work the first 3 rows again.

Continue with main shade only and work 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and work 3 inches in rib as for the back. Cast off ribwise.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left front neck, 1 stitch from centre front, 54 stitches up right front neck, and 50 stitches across back neck. [159 sts]

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row, then work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row.
Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join the left shoulder and neckband seams.
Set in sleeves, joining 1½ inches of the sides of the sleeves to the cast off groups at the armhole.
Join the side and sleeve seams.
Fold the neckband in half to the wrong side and catch stitch in place.

Materials

Shetland 2 ply jumper weight (fingering yarn):
7 x 1oz balls in main shade plus 1 oz each in 9 contrast colours: green, grey/brown (light and dark), pink, yellow (light and dark), moss green, mauve, white.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 32 rows to 4 inches over Fair Isle stitch.
[This is basically a 4 ply equivalent]

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 40-42 inches.
Length: 25½ inches.
Sleeve: 20½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original yarn "Real Shetland Knitting Wool 2 ply jumper weight" stated as available from a supplier in Edinburgh is likely to be the 2 ply jumper weight from Jamieson and Smith. It's a 4 ply equivalent specifically designed for Fair Isle knitting, and is available in 25g balls from a number of different suppliers in an extensive range of colours.
Editors note: Sadly you have to pay somewhat more than the 19p price per ball quoted for the original yarn in the 1970s!

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2022

Snow Baby

SnowBaby.jpg

Adorable winter coatigan and bonnet set for a child.

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets.

COAT

The body of the coat is made in one piece beginning at the bottom edge.

With larger size needles and white colour, cast on 186 (204) stitches, and, using the blue colour, work in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.
Now divide the piece to work the Back and Fronts separately from the armholes by placing 46 (50) stitches at each side on holders.

Coat Back

Continue on the centre 94 (104)stitches for the Back only.

Shape armholes by decreasing: for size 1: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row once, then the following 4th row once, then the following alternate row once, and finally the following 4th row once).
Place the remaining 86 (96) stitches on a holder.

Coat - Right Front:

With right side facing, pick up 46 (50) stitches for the on the right and shape the armhole.
Beginning at the armhole edge, for size 1: decrease 1 stitch on the next and every alternate row, 4 times, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch on the next row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following alternate row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once).
At the same time shape the neck edge beginning at 1st (5th) - knit - row, by leaving the last 22 (26) stitches unworked, turning and purling back, and then in the same way, leaving the last 5 stitches unworked on every alternate row 4 times.

Leave all 42 (46) stitches remaining on a holder.

Coat - Left Front:

Work the left front the same as the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (make 2):

With smaller size needles and blue colour, cast on 38 stitches and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to larger size needles, and work in stocking stitch, increasing 8 (10) stitches evenly spaced across the first row. [46 (48) sts]
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 8 times. [62 (64) sts]

Continue without shaping until work measures 6¾ () inches.
Shape top by decreasing for size 1: 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row, 1 stitch at each end of the following alternate row, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row).
Leave the remaining 54 (56) stitches on a stitch holder.

Yoke:

With larger size needles in blue colour, pick up the 278 (300) stitches from the holders: 42 (46) stitches from the right front, 54 (56) stitches from the right sleeve, 86 (96) stitches from the back, 54 (56) stitches from the left sleeve, and finally, 42 (46) stitches from the left front.

With right side facing, work 2 rows in stocking stitch decreasing 8 stitches at the armholes on the first row as follows:
Next row (decrease): k40 (44), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k82 (92), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k40 (44).
[270 (292) sts]
Next row: purl.

The next row decreases a number of stitches evenly across each section of the yoke - work the two sizes as follows:

SIZE 1 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 5 times, k1;
k1, (k3, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, k2tog, (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k3) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1) 5 times. [189 sts]

Next row: purl.

SIZE 2 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog) 15 times;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
k2tog, k2tog, (k1, k2tog) 29 times, k3tog;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
(k2tog, k1) 15 times.
[219 sts]

Next row: purl.

Now work the pattern sections in stocking stitch from the charts, with decreasing on plain rows in between as follows; note carefully that decrease rows are written separately for each of the two sizes:

Both sizes: work row 1-4 rows from chart 1 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k6, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 26 times, k1. [163 sts]
Next row 6: Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 22 times. [141 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k8, * k2tog, k6, repeat from * 26 times, k3. [193 sts]
Next row 6 : Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k1, * k2tog, k8, repeat from * 19 times, k2tog. [173 sts]

Both sizes: work 7 rows from chart 2 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k10, * k2tog, k3, repeat from * 25 times, k6. [116 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 27 times, k4. [146 sts]

Both sizes: work 2 rows from chart 3 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p2, * p2tog, p3, repeat from * 22 times, p2tog, p2. [93 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p10, * p2tog, p2, repeat from * 19 times, p7. [74 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p6, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 23 times, p2. [123 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p1, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 20 times, p2tog. [102 sts]

Both sizes: work 6 rows from chart 4 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 12 times, k2tog. [61 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k2, * k2tog, k2, repeat from * 25 times. [77 sts]

Both sizes: work 4 rows from chart 5 starting with a purl row.

Both sizes: purl 1 row in blue, decreasing one stitch at the centre of the work. [60 (76) sts]

Place the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Coat border:

Remove the strand of white at the bottom of the work, picking up the stitches as you go.
With the circular needle and blue colour, pick up and knit 436 (506) stitches around the edge of the coat, as follows:
60 (76) stitches around neck,
91 (109) stitches from each front,
186 (204) stitches from bottom edge.
Commence working in the round, increasing 2 stitches at the corners between each section.

Work 4 rounds of stocking stitch (every round knitted) and on the 2nd round on right front edge, make 3 buttonholes 2 stitches wide: cast off 2 stitches, then on the third round, cast on 2 stitches over the spaces.
Place the first buttonhole in line with the last row of Chart 1, of the yoke; space the others 8 stitches apart.

On the 5th round, work 1 round of eyelets:
5th round: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Work a further round, then make 3 buttonholes at same places as first 3 buttonholes. Work a further 2 rounds then cast off all stitches.

Finishing the coat:

Sew armhole and sleeve seams.
Fold border in half all around the coat and sew in place.
Sew around buttonholes.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:

Coat: 3 (4) x 50g balls in blue colour plus 1 ball in white.

Bonnet: 1 ball in each colour.

One pair each of 3mm and 3½mm (or 3¾mm) needles.

3½mm (or 3¾mm) circular needle.

Tension

23sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

1 / 2 years
[25 / 26 inch chest]

Abbreviations:

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together
p2tog: decrease by purling 2 stitches together
yo: yarn over needle to make an extra stitch (creates a decorative hole)

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting with 50/50 wool/acrylic mix and approximately 125m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


BONNET

With larger size needles and blue colour, cast on 89 stitches.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.

On the 5th row, work eyelets:
5th row: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches; k2. [90 sts]
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 1¼ inches, begin the fair-isle pattern following the 35 rows on the chart given at the end.

Then shape the back of the hat by casting off 30 stitches at each edge of next row. You now have 29 stitches.
[Editor's note: If I were knitting this I would cast off 30 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows and then continue on the centre 29 stitches only; this avoids having to break and rejoin the blue colour.]

Continue on the centre 29 stitches in blue colour, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 6 times.
Cast off the remaining 17 stitches.

Finishing the bonnet:

Fold the border along the row of eyelets to form the picot edge, and sew a hem.
Fold the T shaped knitting into a bonnet shape and sew the two back seams, so that the plain centre section forms the back of the head, and the picot edge frames the face.
With smaller size needles and blue colour, pick up and knit 64 stitches all around the bottom edge of the bonnet.

To make the chin strap, cast on 25 stitches (left side of work, right side of bonnet), and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. On the 2nd make 1 buttonhole 2 stitches wide, as on the coat, placing it 4 stitches from the end of the strap.
On the 5th row, cast off all stitches.
Sew a button on the other (left) side of the bonnet to attach the chin strap.

Bonnet Chart

October 2022

Knitted trouser suit

SixtiesTrouserSuit.jpg

Having spent years making tongue-in-cheek comments about knitted trousers, I find they seemed to become a kind of pandemic fashion item - safely out of site during Zoom meetings. I'm not sure the fashion was really for anything like hand-knitted trousers; however, sitting (unobserved!) in my poorly-insulated chilly office at the top of the house, cosy woollen trousers are taking on some kind of appeal.
Even if the trousers don't appeal, there is a rather nice matching low-belted long-line cable sweater - very much of the period.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 94 (106, 116) stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 7 (5, 10), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 7; repeat from * to last 7 (5, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 6 (4, 9).
[105 (119, 129) sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4; repeat from * once, p2, k9, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times, k5 (4, 1).
2nd row: p30 (37, 42); * k4, p4, k4, p21; repeat from * once, p9 (16, 21).
3rd row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
4th row: work as for 2nd row.
5th row: work as for 1st row.
6th row: work as for 2nd row.
7th row: k5 (4, 1); [p4, k4] one (two, three) times; * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, repeat from * once, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k4, p4] one (two, three) times; k5 (4, 1).
8th row: work as for 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 16 inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 81 (89, 99) stitches remain.

* Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern 20 (22, 25), including the stitch used in casting off. Turn, leaving the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: w2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, w2tog. Repeat the last 2 rows once.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

With wrong side of work facing, join in yarn at the neck edge and work to end.
Next row (wrong side facing): pattern 23 (26, 30) stitches, w2tog.
Turn, leaving the centre 31 (33, 35) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
W2tog at the neck edge on the next 3 rows.
Next row: Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches, pattern to end.
Work 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from * to *.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 4½ (5, ) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:
Next row: Pattern 30 (33, 37) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 (, 8) inches from start of armhole shaping, ending at armhole edge.
(The armhole is ½ inch shorter on the left side to allow for the ribbing to make the shoulder opening).

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.
Slip the centre 21 (23, 25) stitches on to a spare needle.
Join in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, pattern to end.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 7½ (8, ) from the start of the armhole shaping, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7) stitches.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 52 (54, 56) stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 5 (4, 7), * work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (8, 13); repeat from * to last 5 (5, 7) stitches; work twice into next stitch, rib 4 (4, 6). [60 stitches].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and rib pattern.
1st row (right side facing): p4, * k4, p4; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p4, k4, repeat from * to end.

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Increase and work into rib pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 12th (9th, 7th) row until there are 76 (82, 88) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16½ (17, 17½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58, 64) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 36 (42, 46) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 22 (24, 24) stitches remain.
Cast off.

Jumper Shoulder Edging

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for ¾ inch.

1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over cast off stitches in previous row.
Work 1¾ (2, ) inches in rib, measured from base of buttonhole.
Work another buttonhole.
Work ¾ (1, 1¼) inches in rib, measured from base of previous buttonhole and ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.
Work a second piece to match, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join right shoulder seam.
With right side of work facing and using No 10 needles, rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging with buttonholes; pick up and k13
stitches down left side of front neck; knit across the 21 (23, 25) stitches at centre front; pick up and knit 15 stitches up right side of front neck; 7 stitches down right side of back neck; knit across the 31
(33, 35) stitches at the centre back, pick up and knit 4 stitches up left side of back neck, then rib across the 11 stitches of the Shoulder Edging without buttonholes. [113 (117, 121) sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: k1, * p 1, k1 , repeat from * end.

Continue in rib, making a third buttonhole 1¾ (2, ) inches from base of previous buttonhole.
Change to No 11 needles and work a further ½ inch in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Jumper Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 36 (38, 40) inches, ending with a wrong side row. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following
alternate row until 3 stitches remain.
Knit 3 together, and fasten off.

Belt Tabs (Make 4):

Using No 10 needles, cast on 7 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p 1, * k 1, p 1, repeat from to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 ½ inches, ending with a wrong side row. Cast off in rib.

Making Up Jumper

Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Stitch Shoulder Edgings to left shoulder with a flat stitch.
Sew in sleeves, overlapping Shoulder Edging.
Sew on buttons.
Stitch belt tabs into position as shown in photograph.
Sew buckle to straight edge of belt.
Slot belt through tabs.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 25g balls.

Jumper:
22 (24, 26)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 10 (3¼mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

3 buttons.
1 buckle.

Trousers:
23 (25, 28)

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

6 inch zip.
Elastic to fit waist.
1 trouser clip.

Tension

22 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch

Size matters

Jumper: to fit chest 30-31, (34-35, 37-38)
actual measurement
32 (36, 39) inches; length: 32 (36, 39) inches; sleeve seam: 16½ (17, 17½) inches.

Trousers: to fit hips 32-33 (35-36, 38-39) inches;
inside leg seam:
28 (28, 28) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
w2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
sl3F: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at front of work.
sl3B: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and leave at back of work.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
sl1K: slip the next knitwise.
sl1P: slip the next purlwise.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting, 100% superwash wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Trousers Right Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k53 (57, 61); p2, k9, p2; k55 (59, 63).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k53 (57, 61); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k55 (59, 63).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k53 (57, 61); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k55 (59, 63).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 60 (64, 68), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 44 (48, 52), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 64 (68, 72), m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Next row: k2tog, work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 45 (49, 53), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: Work 61 (65, 69), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 43 (47, 51), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26), [k2tog] twice, work 35 (37, 39), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 77 (85, 93), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 17 (19, 21), k2tog, work to end. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work 15 (17, 19), k2tog, work 32 (34, 36), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 67 (71, 75), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Next row (wrong side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1K, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Left Leg

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 121 (129, 137) stitches and work 9 rows stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Next row (wrong side facing): Knit to mark hemline.

Commence pattern:

1st row (right side facing): k55 (59, 63); p2, k9, p2; k53 (57, 61).
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k55 (59, 63); p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2; k53 (57, 61).
4th row: purl.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k55 (59, 63); p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2; k53 (57, 61).
8th row: purl.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 44 pattern rows in all have been worked.

Keep continuity of cable panel:
Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [119 (127, 135) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Next row: work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [118 (126, 134) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 40 rows once more. [115 (123, 131) sts]

Next row: k2tog, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 19 rows straight.
Repeat the last 20 rows once more. [111 (119, 127) sts]

Next row: Work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 49 (53, 57), m1, work to end. [112 (120, 128) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [113 (121, 129) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 53 (57, 61), m1, work to end. [114 (122, 130) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [115 (123, 131) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 55 (59, 63), m1, work to end. [116 (124, 132) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [117 (125, 133) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 56 (60, 64), m1, work 15, m1, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [121 (129, 137) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [122 (130, 138) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [124 (132, 140) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work 59 (63, 67), m1, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to end. [127 (135, 143) sts]
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Increase into first stitch, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [129 (137, 145) sts]
Next row: Cast off 3 stitches, work to end. [126 (134, 142) sts]
Next row: Cast off 16 stitches, work to end. [110 (118, 126) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [109 (117, 125) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 45 (49, 53), m1, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [108 (116, 124) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [107 (115, 123) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [106 (114, 122) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 9 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work to end. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: Work 59 (63, 67), k2tog, work to last stitch, increase into last stitch. [105 (113, 121) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 42 (46, 50), m1, work 35 (37, 39), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [103 (111, 119) sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 20 (20, 20), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [100 (108, 116) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: Work 56 (60, 64), k2tog, work 17 (19, 21), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [96 (104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [95 (103, 111) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: Work 19 (21, 23), [k2tog] twice, work 32 (34, 36), k2tog, work 15 (17, 19), [k2tog] twice, work to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [89 (97, 105) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog, work to end. [88 (96, 104) sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog, work 15 (19, 23), [k2tog] twice, work to end. [85 (93, 101) sts]
Work 1 row straight.
Next row (right side facing): Work 75 (82, 89) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 65 (71, 77) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 55 (60, 65) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 44 (48, 52) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 33 (36, 39) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 22 (24, 26) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work 11 (12, 13) stitches, turn, sl1P, work to end.
Next row: Work across all stitches.
Cast off.

Trousers Waistband

Using backstitch, join front and inside leg seams.
With right side of work facing, and using No 10 (3¼mm) needles pick up and knit 160 (176, 192) stitches evenly around waistband from centre back seam to centre back seam.
Commencing with a purl row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Next row: Knit (this row marks the fold line).
Commencing with a knit row, work a further 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off fairly loosely.

Making Up Trousers

Sew in zip to centre back seam, placing top of zip in line with base of waistband, then join
remainder of seam.
Turn waist and ankle hems onto wrong side and slip stitch down.
Thread elastic through waistband and secure at each end.
Sew trouser clip to waistband.

September 2022

Pop Socks

PopSocks.jpg

These socks are made using 2 needles, with one main colour and 4 contrasts. Of course, you can have as many contrasts as you like, and it would be good for using up lots of bright leftovers yarns; however it's always good to have a consistent main colour to tie it all together.
Alternatively you could easily substitute a suitably cheerful self-striping yarn either for the contrast stripes, or used plain throughout, allowing it to do its thing.
whatever you choose, complete the look with clogs*.
Just the thing to jazz up your jeans. Make them with or without toes — and the brighter the better!

* note: if you knit separate toes, it might be a bit overcrowded in clogs...

Instructions.

The socks are worked on two needles.

Right Leg

**

Using No 11 needles and colour A, cast on 80 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): p1, * k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2 inches (5cm) from the start, ending with a wrong side row.

Join in colour B. Beginning with a knit row, continue in stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl), working in striped sequence of 4 rows B, 2 rows A, 4 rows C, 2 rows A, 4 rows D, 2 rows A, 4 rows E and 2 rows A throughout.
Continue in pattern until work measures 5 inches (12½cm) from the start, ending with a purl row.

Shape leg:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches k2tog, k1.

Keeping striped sequence correct. Continue in this way, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 60 stitches remain.
Continue without shaping until work measures 13½ inches (34½ cm)
from the start, or required length, ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for heel and instep

With right side of work facing, slip the first 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the heel.
Keeping the striped sequence correct, knit the next 30 stitches for the instep; turn; slip the last 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the other side of the heel.

Instep

Work 6½ inches (16½cm) in the striped sequence for the instep, ending with 2 rows in colour A (wrong side row).

Editor's note: Now you need to decide if you want "normal" socks, or socks with separate toes - useful for bar-toe sandals! - and if you are knitting toes then you leave the stitches on a stitch holder at this point while you continue to knit the heel.

Shape instep top without toes ("normal" sock)

Next row: Using colour A throughout, k1,sl1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Next row: purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Version including toes

Break off yarn and leave the stitches on a holder while you continue with the instructions to shape the heel.

Shape heel

Editor's note: heel shaping instructions for both versions of sock, with or without toes.

Slip the 30 stitches you previously left on holders on to the needle, placing the outside edges together in the middle.
Editor's note: you have curled the edges of the sock round to form a tube shape - but you continue to knit the heel just on these 30 stitches, back and forth using 2 needles.

Using colour A and with right side of work facing, shape the heel, working short rows as follows:

1st row (right side facing): sl1 knitwise, k28. Turn.
2nd row: sl1 purlwise, p27. Turn.
3rd row: sl1 knitwise, k26. Turn.
4th row: sl1 purlwise, p25. Turn.

Continue in this way, working one stitch less on every row until you have worked the row: "sl1 purlwise, p13. Turn." has been completed, leaving 8 stitches unworked at each side.

Next row: sl1 knitwise, k13. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and knit it together with the next stitch. Turn.
Next row: sl1 purlwise, p14. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and purl it together with the next stitch. Turn.

Continue working one more stitch on every row until you have picked up all the stitches and there are 30 stitches.
Matching the striped sequence with that on the instep, knit the sole by continuing in stocking stitch without shaping until the sole measures the same as the instep.

Shape sole top without toes ("normal" sock)

Shape the top by working exactly the same as for the instep shaping.

**

Version including toes

Having completed the heel, return to the instep stitches that you left on a holder.

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across instep stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the sole. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Using A throughout, and working on these 24 stitches, work 16 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Second toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour B, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the big toe. K5 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using B throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 14 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Third toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour C, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the second toe.
K5 stitches, turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using C throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the third toe shaping as given for second toe.

Fourth toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour D, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the third toe. K4 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p13, turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [15 sts]

Using D throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog all across the row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Little toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour E, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the fourth toe. Knit to end. Turn.
Next row: purl to end. [15 sts]

Using E throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the little toe shaping as given for the fourth toe.


Left Leg

Work as for right leg from ** to **.
This completes the version without separate toes.

Version including toes

Set the position of the toes for the left foot as follows:

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across the sole stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the instep. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Complete the big, second, third, fourth, and little toes, as given for the right leg.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly under a damp cloth with
a warm iron.
Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).
Sew in all ends.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 4 ply yarn in main shade (A) and 1 ball in each of 4 contrast colours (B, C, D, and E).

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
Stitch holders.

Tension

30 sts x 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit and "average" adult foot: 9/9½ inches (23/24cm). Length from top of heel: 13½ inches (34½ cm).

Abbreviations

sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a superwash 4ply. These days there is a huge choice of wool for socks, but I would recommend some nylon content.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2022

Trendy Crochet Dress

CrochetDress.jpg

A sixties dress in crochet - which is apparently one of the trends for the season. The simple lacy-look design is worked in light weight yarn over a four-row pattern.
Personally I have a slight prejudice that it can be a bit thick and heavy for summer wear - however the catwalks featured "jumbo" crochet items - so - time to sacrifice all for fashion!
On the plus side, crochet is a speedy technique, meaning that items are highly suitable for you to make for yourself in a reasonable time frame.

Instructions.

The dress is given for 3 sizes - larger sizes in brackets - which once again only go up as far as a 38 inch chest. The yarn required is a 4 ply fingering weight, but you could experiment with the tension using a DK soft cotton and a larger hook, which would tend more towards the "jumbo" nature of the designer version.

Back and Front (make 2 alike)

Using No 11 (3mm) hook make 141 (150 : 159) chain.

1st row: 1 dtr in 6th chain from hook, * miss 2 chain, 1 dtr in each of the next 4 chain, miss 2 chain, (1 dtr, 2 chain, 1 dtr) - referred to as 1 group - in next chain; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: 1 dc in first dtr, (5 chain, 1 dc in space before 4 dtr, 5 chain, 1 dc in space after 4 dtr) to end, working last dc in the turning chain.
[Editors note:the "5 chain" here creates what is subsequently referred to as a "loop".]

3rd row: 4 chain, 3 dtr in loop, (1 group in centre chain of next loop, 4 dtr in next loop) to end.
4th row: 1 dc in dtr, (5 chain, 1 dc before next group, 5 chain, 1 dc after group) to end, working last dc in the turning chain
5th row: 4 chain, (1 group in centre chain of loop, 4 dtr in next loop) up to 1 loop from end, then 1 group in loop, 1 dtr in end dc.
Repeat 2nd to 5th rows inclusive for pattern.

Continue in pattern until work measures 7 (8 : 9) inches.
Adjust length here, if required.
Change to No 12 (2¾mm) hook and work 11 inches.
Change to No 13 (2¼mm) hook and continue until work measures 26 (26½ : 27) inches, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Armhole Shaping:
Next row: slip stitch over 1 pattern; then pattern until 1 pattern remains, turn.
Next row: slip stitch over 3 chain; then pattern to within 3 chain from the end, turn.

Continue in pattern until work measures 32½ (33½ : 34½) inches, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Neck and Shoulder shaping:
Next row: pattern over 3 complete patterns, turn.
Next row: pattern to end.
Next row: slip stitch over 1 pattern; then pattern to within 3 stitches from the end.
Fasten off.

Miss 6 (7 : 8) complete patterns and 1 group; join in yarn and complete to match the other side.

To Make Up

Press work with a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join shoulder and side seams.

Edging: Work in rounds around neck, armholes and lower edge.
1st round: dc (working 3 dc over chain loop or dtr). Do not turn.
2nd round: dc in reverse, inserting hook in next dc to right.
[Editors note: dc in reverse can also be called crab stitch - it's a little awkward to perform, but gives a twisted cord effect edge There are various tutorials to be found on-line.]

Fasten off.
Sew in any loose ends.


For an excellent round-up of SS22 trends on the catwalks review the items at Wardrobe Icons.

Crochet dress, seen here in Tod's sixties-inspired jumbo crochet shift.

TodsJumboCrochet.jpg

Materials

4ply fingering yarn:
13 (14 : 15) oz of crepe 4ply.

Nos 11 (3mm), 12 (2¾mm), and 13 (2¼mm) crochet hooks.

Tension

2 patterns to 3 inches on 3mm hook.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34 / 36 / 38 inches;
length:
33 / 34 / 35 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was pure wool crepe 4 ply - crepe being good for crochet as the yarn tends to resist splitting.
1 oz is about 28 grams; yardage unknown.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2022

Cool Customer

CoolCustomer.jpg

An easy ribbed slipover for breezier summer days.

Instructions.

The main pattern stitch is named as "beaded rib" worked as follows:

1st row and all odd rows (right side facing): knit
2nd row and all even rows: * k1; k1b (see abbreviations). Repeat from * to end of round.
Editor's note: I would call this stitch "mock fisherman's rib" - "mock" because the alternate rows are knitted plain.

Back

With smaller sized needles, cast on 134/140/146/152/158 stitches, and work 2¾ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to larger needles and work in the "beaded rib" stitch until work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next, and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows.
[104/108/112/116/120 sts]

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/2 inches.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 10/9/10/11/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, k18/9/10/11/11, cast off centre 28/30/32/34/34, knit to end.
Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, p18/19/19/19/20 and then turn, leaving the 19/20/20/20/21 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.

Next row: cast off 10 at the neck edge, knit to end.
Next row: cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and cast off 10 at the neck edge, purl to end. Turn and cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder.

Front

Work as for back up to the start of the armhole shaping when work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Start the armhole shaping, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows.
[114/120/126/128/134 sts]

Divide for neck by continuing on the first half of the stitches only and placing the remaining half of the stitches [57/60/63/64/67 sts] on a spare needle.

Keeping the pattern correct, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows, and, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 5th row 24/25/26/27/27 times. [28/29/30/31/33 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/2 inches, then shape shoulders by casting off at the armhole edge on every alternate row, 10/9/10/11/11 stitches once, and 9/10/10/10/11 stitches twice.

Rejoin the yarn to the stitches on the spare needle and work the other side of the neck to match, reversing the shapings.

To Make Up

Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
With double pointed needles or circular, beginning at the lowest point of the V-neck, pick up and knit 64/68/72/76/80 stitches up the right neck edge, then 46/50/52/54/54 stitches around the back neck, then
64/68/72/76/80 stitches down the left neck edge.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib, but work
back and forth (rather than in the round), decreasing 1 stitch at each end on every row.
Bind off loosely in rib and sew the neck border bias seam.

Armhole borders:
With smaller size needles, pick up and knit 184/190/196/202/206 stitches evenly around the armholes.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib.
Bind off loosely in rib.

Sew side seams including the armhole border seams.

Block and press as required.

Materials

4 ply yarn:
6/7/7/8/8 x 50g balls

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2¾mm) double pointed needles or circular.

Tension

28sts and 60 rows to 4 inches on 3¼mm needles over "beaded rib" stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
38/40/41/43/44 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k1b: knit 1 below: insert needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch to be knitted, and knit off both stitches at the same time.
Editor's note: This stitch is fairly well known now due to the popularity of brioche knitting; however it's easier to demonstrate than describe, so if you don't understand then look for video demonstrations on YouTube or similar.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was an acrylic yarn with a yardage of about 170m per 50g ball.

You can use a 4 or 5 ply yarn for this loose fitting design, but check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

May 2022

Long Lacy Sweater

LongLacySweater.jpg

This sweater from the end of the 1970s is a presage of the style that became so ubiquitous in the 1980s - the oversized unisex sweater with drop shoulders and no shaping. It is very simply constructed with wide squared off sleeves and no armhole shaping on the body. The neck opening is formed from a vertical slit, rather like a poncho - all very simple.

This is one of my favourite types of sweater - really long and slouchy with a deep welt - suitable to wear with narrow trousers or leggings. [Clearly I belong in the 1980s.] In addition, the stitch used is an openwork lacy pattern which I find very satisfying to knit. In fact, this particular sweater looks so very long, I might be tempted to knit it shorter for myself (I am not very tall) to keep the style of a tunic rather than a dress.
...the length is mini-skirt, the style blouson. Surprisingly easy to knit, this feminine open lace stitch sweater worked on large size needles adds new dimensions to a sporty Aran...

Instructions.

The pattern is written for one size only, and at 34 to 38 inches this might be a bit of a limitation. It is designed to be oversized, so the actual measurement should come out at about 41 inches if you achieve the stated tension.

[Editor's note: I can see why they would have had difficulty providing a sensible larger size, as the lace pattern is repeated over 34 stitches - so if you added another repeat it would increase the size by at least 12 inches. Having said that, many oversize sweaters, both in the eighties and now, are designed to be in excess of 50 inches as a supposed "one size", and it would be a moderately feasible task to redraft the pattern, due to the lack of shaping - if you had the appetite for it.]

Front

** With 4mm needles, cast on 88 stitches.

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows until work measures 8½ inches (21 cm), ending with a 1st row.

Next row: p6, increase in the next stitch, * p4, increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last 6 stitches, p6. [104 sts].

Change to No 5½ mm needles and work in pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * k3, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k3; repeat from * to
last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. 3rd row: k1, * k1, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * p2togtbl, p4, yrn. p3, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

5th - 12th rows: Repeat 1st to 4th rows twice.

13th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k6, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
14th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p4, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
16th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p3, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

17th - 24th rows: Repeat 13th to 16th rows twice.

These 24 rows form the pattern. **
Continue in pattern until Front measures 30 inches (76 cm), ending with right side facing for next row (measured with work hanging from needle to allow for drop).
[Editor's note: Calculating from the tension this should be about 108 rows in the pattern or 4½ pattern repeats.]

Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: Make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row..]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Front measures 38 inches (97cm), ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: I think they rather gloss over this instruction - you need to have made a note of the row number on which you divided for the neck so you can make sure you resume the pattern here on the correct row.]

Back

Work as for Front from ** to **.
Continue in pattern until Back measures 34 inches (86 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: As you did for the Front, make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row.]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Back matches Front at side edge, ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: Having seen how you did it with the Front, you can resume the pattern here on the correct row, using the note you made when you divided the Back neck.]

Sleeves

With 4mm needles, cast on 36 stitches and work in rib as for Front for 4 inches (10cm), ending with a 1st row.
Next row: p1, * increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1. [70 sts]
Change to 5½mm needles, and work in pattern as for Front until Sleeve measures 18 inches (46cm) down centre, ending with right side
facing.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.
Placing centre of cast-off stitches of sleeves to shoulder seams, sew sleeves in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

18 x 50g balls of Aran weight yarn yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm), 5 (5½mm).

Tension

This design uses big needles so the tension is
20 stitches x 20 rows to 4 ins on No 5½mm needles over the pattern - different from the usual Aran tension.

The original yarn knitted to a tension of 18 stitches x 24 rows to 4 inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-38 inches; length: 38 inches;
and sleeve seam: 18 inches.

Abbreviations

M2: make 2 stitches by picking up the horizontal loop lying before the next stitch and working into back and front of it.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward" / "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1k: slip one stitch knitwise.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 stitches together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 stitches together.
tbl: through back loop(s).
sl: slip.

A word on the wool.

The original sweater was knitted in a Patons Capstan - a pure wool classic Aran weight yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2022

Choose Tweed

TweedDress.jpg

This wasn't my original choice for this month, but recently I have noticed a trend for monochrome wool dresses in some fashion articles. Not too hard to knit as the two-colour effect is formed by slipping stitches - so only one colour in any one row.

Instructions.

A tweed dress in 3 sizes (small/medium/large).

Back

**
Using No 8 (4mm) needles lighter tweed colour (L), cast on 129/135/141 stitches, and begin working in the two-colour pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Purl in L - do not break yarn L.
2nd row: Join in darker contrast D, p1, * with wool at front, sl1, p1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Using D, p1, * wool back, sl1, wool forward, p1; repeat from * to end - do not break yarn D.
4th row: Purl in L.
5th row: Purl in L - do not break yarn L.
6th row: Using D, p2, * with wool at front, sl1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
7th row: Using D, p2, * wool back, sl1, wool forward, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1 - do not break yarn D.
8th row: Purl in L.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight until back measures 3 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape skirt as follows:
1st decrease row: p42/44/46, p3tog, p39/41/43, p3tog, p42/44/
46. [125/131/137 sts]

Work straight until back measures 6 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
2nd decrease row: p41/43/45, p3tog, p37/39/41, p3tog, p41/43/45. [121/127/133 sts]

Work straight until back measures 9 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.
3rd decrease row: p40/42/44, p3tog, p35/37/39, p3tog, p40/42/44. [117/123/129 sts]

Work straight until back measures 12 inches, ending with a 4th or 8th pattern row.

Continue in this way, decreasing 4 stitches on every 1st or 5th pattern row at 3 inch intervals, until 97/103/109 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 29½ inches down centre, ending with 2nd or 6th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 75/79/83 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 31/31½/32 inches, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for back opening:
Next row: pattern 37/39/41, turn, and leave remaining 38/40/42 stitches on a spare needle.

Continue straight on these 37/38/41 stitches for first side, until back measures 36½/37/37½ inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6/7/8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7/7/7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Cast off remaining 17/18/19 stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off the centre stitch, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
[75/79/83 sts]

Work straight until front measures 34/34½/35 inches, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:

Next row: pattern 28/29/30, turn, and leave remaining 47/50/53 stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work straight in pattern.

Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 20/21/22 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches, cast off the centre 19/21/23 stitches, and pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with the first side.

To Make Up

Press parts or block lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Facing:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and D colour, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 20/21/22 stitches across left side of back, 17 down left side of front, 19/21/23 from the centre front, 17 up right side of front, and 20/21/22 across right side of back.
[93/97/101 sts]
Work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch for 5 rows, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Armhole Facing:
With right side facing,
Using No 10 needles and D colour, pick up and knit 88/94/100 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 5 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Join side seams.
Join armhole facing.
Fold neck and armhole facings to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position all round, so that the stitches do not show through on the right side.
Insert zip into back opening, allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams lightly on wrong side.

Materials

Double knitting:
15/17/19 x 1oz balls in lighter coloured tweed ;
8/9/10 balls in darker solid colour.

Pair each of
No 8 (4mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

6 inch zip.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles over pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 inches;
length from top of shoulders:
36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
p3tog: purl 3 stitches together
stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
L: lighter tweed
D: darker contrast

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was pure wool in a standard DK weight.
Yardage is not given but I would not expect it to be longer than average for a pure wool.
Given the requirement for tweed I might use Rowan felted tweed for both colours as it is a favourite of mine, and not too heavy a weight, which I might be concerned about with a dress made in a textured stitch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2022

Gentlemen prefer...

GentlemenPreferGrey.jpg

well... they prefer... grey if my experience is anything to go by (whether it's 50 shades or maybe just 2); even the muted coloured stripe is a risk. However, colour choices are easily adapted to the taste of the wearer, and in my case: I love stripes (both wearing and knitting them), whatever the colours.
Otherwise - the greys have it.

Instructions.

A man's plain loose sweater in 3 sizes (small medium and large).

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 118/122/126 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in dark grey contrast (G) to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 2 / 3 / 4 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[120/125/130 sts].
Work in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M.

After the first 12 rows of the seventh stripe (which is in in colour G), shape the armholes by casting off 9/10/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [102/105/108 sts].

Change to colour R and work 14 rows for the 8th stripe.

Change to colour G and continue in striped stocking stitch alternating between colours G and M.
When work measures 26¼ / 26¾ / 27¼ inches, shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, k7/8/9, cast off centre 50/51/52, knit to end.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, p7/8/9 and then turn, leaving the 8/9/10 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.
Next row: k8/9/10, turn, cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and purl 8/9/10. Turn and cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder

Front

Work as for back until work measures 23¼ / 23½ / 24 inches.

Keeping continuity of the striped pattern shape neck as follows:
Next row: k43/44/45, cast off the centre 16/17/18 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: p43/44/45 and leave the remaining 43/44/45 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder while you complete the left front separately.

At the beginning of the next row cast off 4 stitches. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row, cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With wrong side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Knit 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the left front.

With wrong side facing, return to the stitches for the right side of the front, rejoin the yarn to the neck edge, and cast off 4 stitches, purl to end. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With right side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Purl 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the right front.

Sleeves

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 66/70/74 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½/4/ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.
[Editor's note: You may be puzzled by the largest size having a smaller sleeve welt. This is to keep the sleeve length correct overall, while trying to keep to an exact sequence of the stripes.]

With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in contrast to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 18/19/20 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[84/89/94 sts].
Working in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M, as before; however, for the largest size 3, begin the stocking stitch with a stripe of main colour M, followed by G. This will ensure you end at the top of the sleeve with a stripe in the dark contrast G, as shown in the photo.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th row, 11 times.
[106/111/116 sts].

Continue until work measures 20 / 20¾ / 21½ inches from the beginning, [Editor's note: This should be 126/128/140 rows in stocking stitch.], which should be an exact number of stripes, ending with the darker grey colour G - for the second (medium) size you should work 16 rows in colour G on this last stripe.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts or block lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
Using the set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), pick up and knit 128/132/132 stitches evenly around the neck.
Work 3 rounds in K2/P2 rib, the 6 rounds in main shade (M), then 3 rounds in colour R. Cast off in rob using R.

Sew in sleeves. [Editor's note: The instructions are not explicit on this point but as the top of the sleeve is a straight edge, I would be inclined to sew it to the straight edge of the armhole, and sew the top half inch of the side of the sleeve to the cast off stitches of the armhole.]
Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Diagram showing dimensions for smallest size:

Materials

Double knitting yarn:
6/6/7 x 50g balls in light grey (M);
5/6/6 balls in darker grey (G);
1/2/2 ball dark red (R)

Pair each of
No 11 (3mm), and
No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles.
One set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to four inches on 3½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 / 42 / 44 inches,
[actual sizes approximately 2 inches larger];
length from top of shoulders:
26¼ / 26¾ /27¼ inches;
sleeve seam:
19½ / 20 / 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
M: main light grey
G: mid grey
R: wine red

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was mixed fibre double knitting equivalent.
Yardage was approximately 140 meters (153 yards) per 50g ball; this is the key point to note when substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

January 2022

Set Up for the Cold

SetUpForTheCold.jpg

A "long, long" scarf worked in bands of stripes and jacquard pattern, with a matching pull-on hat and gloves to complete the set. These are all knitted in a lighter weight yarn, but the scarf is double thickness so will be very snug; it's also pretty long, so check that's what you want, as obviously you can make it to whatever length you like.

Instructions

The scarf is worked on 4 needles in the round to make a tube, which is then flattened; the result is a flat scarf with two layers of knitted fabric, and means you don't have to worry about seeing the "wrong side" of the knitting. This is a standard way to make - especially commercial - scarves. Although often seen made in the round, both the hat and the gloves are worked flat on two needles, with a seam making them into the required round shape. It would be simple enough to adapt this pattern and make the hat in the round, especially as you have the method given for the scarf. If this is your first attempt at gloves, however, making them flat may be a good way to start.

Scarf

Using the set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or the circular needle - cast on 112 sts in Main Shade (A).
Work in rounds of stocking stitch (every round knit).

Pattern as follows:

**
1st and 2nd rounds: using B knit.
3rd and 4th rounds: using A knit.
5th and 6th rounds: using C knit.
7th and 8th rounds: using D knit.
9th and 10th rounds: using E knit.
11th - 23rd rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 1.
24th - 33rd rounds: repeat rows 1-10.
**
34th - 46th rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 2.

These 46 rounds form the pattern.
Repeat these rounds 10 times more, then the 1st to the 33rd rounds again.

Cast off using A.

To make up the Scarf

Darn in all ends on the wrong side.
Press gently under a damp cloth using a warm iron.
Turn the scarf right side out.
Cut yarn A into 20½ cm (8 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe through both thicknesses of both short ends at 1½ cm (½ inch) intervals.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a knitted tube, and you are now flattening it (to make the scarf double thickness); you then attach the fringe to each straight end, through both edges - which also serves to close the ends of the tube instead of sewing them together (but you might want to sew them anyway).]
Trim the fringe.


Hat

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on loosely 144 stitches. Work 20 rows K1/P1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [145 sts]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles. Continue in stocking stitch with the same pattern as given for the scarf but knitting back and forth in rows, not in the round. Work from ** to **, with every alternate row being purl. Then continue, repeating rows 1 - 10 only throughout.

Continue in pattern until work measures 18cm (7 inches) from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape the crown

Decrease for the crown, keeping the continuity of the striped pattern:
1st decrease row: k5, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k9) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k5. [121 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
2nd decrease row: k4, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k7) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k4. [97 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
3rd decrease row: k3, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k5) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k3. [73 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
4th decrease row: k2, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k3) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k2. [49 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
5th decrease row: (k2tog, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog) 7 times. [21 sts]
Purl one row.
Next row: (sl1, k2tog, psso) 7 times.
Break off yarn, and thread through remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Press as given for the scarf.
Join the centre back seam, taking care to reverse the seam on brim (which folds back).
Fold the brim in half to the right side.


Gloves

Note: When working the gloves, use separate balls of yarn for the palm and thumb, twisting the yarns at the back of the work when changing colours.

Right hand glove

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 56 stitches.
Work 26 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 11 (3 mm) needles, and beginning with a knit row work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Start thumb shaping:

1st row: using first ball of B, k28; using A, increase one stitch in each of the next 2 stitches, k1; using a 2nd ball of B, k25.
2nd row: using B, p25; using A, p5; using B, p28.
3rd row: using A, knit to end.
4th row: using A, purl to end.
5th row: using C, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k2, increase in the next stitch, k1; using C, K25.
6th row: using C, p25; using A, p7; using C, p28.
7th row: using D, k28; using A, k7; using D, k25.
8th row: using D, p25; using A, p7; using D, p28.
9th row: using E, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k4, increase in the next stitch, k1; using E, k25.
10th row: using E, p25; using A, p9; using E; p27, increase in the last stitch. [63 sts including 9 thumb sts]

Continue in pattern as given for chart, increasing the thumb stitches as before on the 3rd and then every foil 4th row until the 24th row has been completed, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.

Thumb:

Next row: using B, k28; using A, k16 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches. [20 sts]
***
Beginning with a knit row, work 18 rows in stocking stitch.

[Editor's note: For this method you keep all the stitches on the needles as you work the thumb and each finger separately. At this point for the thumb, you keep 28 stitches unworked on the right hand needle, and 25 stitches unworked on the left hand needle, while you work on the centre 16 stitches (which you have increased to 20 by casting on 2 extra stitches on each side. You knit the thumb flat, back and forth up to the tip, then you fasten off and sew it up into the thumb shape.]

Shape top:
Next row: (k2tog, k2) 5 times.
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 7 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
Join seam.

With right side of work facing and using B, knit up 4 stitches from the base of the thumb, knit to end. [57 sts]
[Editor's note: With right side facing, you have 28 stitches already on the right hand needle; you rejoin the yarn at the centre where the thumb is, and start by picking up the 4 stitches that you cast on, which are now wrapped round to meet at the base of the thumb. You then knit the 25 stitches on the left hand needle. Don't worry if you end up with small holes showing at the base of the thumb, (or, later, the fingers) as you can pull them in later when you sew in the ends from the join.]
Beginning with a purl row work one row in B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows D, 2 rows E and 4 rows A, ending with a purl row.
Continue in A only.

Divide for fingers:

1st finger
Next row: k36, turn and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows in stocking stitch on these 18 stitches.

Shape top:
**
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 4 times, k2. [14 sts]
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2 tog) 7 times.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
**
Join seam.

2nd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 1st finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 28 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete to match first finger, working from ** to **.
Join seam.

3rd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 2nd finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Complete to match 2nd finger.
Join seam.

4th finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 3rd finger, k6.
Beginning with a purl row, continue in stocking stitch across all remaining stitches for 19 rows.

Shape top
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 5 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
***

Left hand glove

Work as given for right hand glove, reversing the pattern and the position of thumb as follows:

1st row: using 1st ball of B, k25; using A, increase one stitch in each of
the next 2 stitches, k1; using 2nd ball of B, k28.

Continue as given for right hand glove until 24th row of pattern has been completed.

Thumb

Next row: using B, k24; using A, k16, turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18, turn and cast on 2 stitches.

Complete as given for right hand glove working from *** to ***.

To make up

Press as given for scarf.
Join side seam and 4th finger seam.

Materials

25g balls of 4 ply (fingering) yarn:

Scarf: 4 balls in main shade A
5 balls in contrast B
4 balls in contrast C
2 balls in contrast D
2 balls in contrast E

One set of 4 3¼mm (UK 10) double pointed needles (dpn), or a circular needle.

Hat and gloves:
3 balls in main shade A
1 ball in each of the contrast colours B, C, D, and E.

One pair of 3mm (UK 11), and one pair of 2¾mm (UK 12) needles

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on 3¼ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 20½ cm (8 inches) wide, by 183cm (72 inches) long, excluding the fringe
Hat: to fit an average adult head.
Gloves: to fit an average adult hand.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply superwash wool; about 92 yards (84 m) per 25g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2021

Snug Gown for Bedtime

SnugToddlerGown.jpg

The cutest hooded gown made in a soft chunky yarn - perfect for bedtime, (or other occasions, as it is described as a "coat"). The lower section has a design of kittens - and there is a cute toy cat to match.

Instructions

The pattern is given in 3 sizes: 12 (18 : 24) months. Where only one set of instructions is given it applies to all sizes.
The body of the gown is worked as one piece up to the armholes.

Sleeves

With 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 22 (24 : 26) stitches and work 3 (3 : 4) cm in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Work 1 row in purl increasing 7 stitches evenly across the row.
[29 (31 : 33) sts].

Now change to 6mm needles and stocking stitch following the Fair Isle colour pattern in the chart for the sleeve:

For the first size, begin with 1 stitch in black (B) then 1 in main shade (M); for the second size, begin with 1M, 1B, 1M; for the third size, begin with 4M, 1B, 1M, 1B, 1M.
Then follow the 16 stitch repeat shown in the chart.
At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 7th (8th : 10th) row 3 times, taking the stitches into the pattern.
[35 (37 : 39) sts].
Then work 3 (4 : 6) more rows, and then place a stitch marker or piece of coloured thread at each end of the row.

Continue in stocking stitch: for the smallest size, work the last 3 rows of the chart, then purl one row in main shade; for the second and third sizes work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Then for all sizes, change to 5mm needles and finish by working 4 rows in garter stitch.

Leave the stitches on a stitch holder or spare needle and work a second sleeve in the same way.

Body (knitted as a single piece)

Using size 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 113 (121 : 129) stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch.

Change to 6mm needles and work 2 (2 : 6) rows in stocking stitch.

Continue stocking stitch and follow the Fair-Isle pattern working from the charts.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 1, commencing with 1M, 1B, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, as indicated.

Now work the 19 rows of the cat pattern from Chart 2, 4 times across the row, placing 3 (5 : 7) stitches between each group, and working 2 (3 : 4) stitches in main shade before the first and after the last group.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 3, commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.
Next, work 10 (17 : 17) rows of Chart 4, commencing 1M, 1B, 5M, then repeating the 16 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, 5M, 1B, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 2 rows as in Chart 3, as before, (commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated).

Work 3 (2 : 2) rows in stocking stitch, and (wrong side facing) work 4 rows in garter stitch.

At this point you have completed 58 (64 : 68) rows and your work should measure 32 (35 : 38) cm.

Now you must divide the work and continue knitting the back and fronts separately.

Change to 5mm needles and work in k1/p1 rib as follows, casting off some stitches for the armholes, as well as decreasing across the row.

Next (right side facing, decrease) row: k2, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1; place these 23 (25, 27 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 23 (25, 27) stitches will form the right front.]

...and continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, k1; place these 47 (51, 55 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 47 (51, 55) stitches will form the back.]

And continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1.
[Editor's note: You are now going to continue to work on this last section of 23 (25, 27) stitches to complete the left front
.]

Upper Left Front

Next row (wrong side facing): p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With right side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Right Front

Rejoin yarn to the right front section at the front edge.

Next row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Back section

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches in the centre.
Next row (wrong side facing)
: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [47 (51 : 55) sts]

Work a further 26 (28 : 30) rows in k1/p1 rib.

Now shape shoulders and back neck by casting off 5 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib 15 (17 : 19) (including the stitch already on the needle), cast off 7 stitches, and rib to end.
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn, and work each side of the next separately.
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn.
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the right side of the Back neck.

Rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches at the neck edge and, right side facing, rib one row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the left side of the Back neck.

Button Band

Using 5mm needles, cast on 65 (71 : 77) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 5 rows, keeping the 2 stitches at each end of the row in stocking stitch - like this:

Next row: k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

And so on for 5 rows in all.

Purl one row, then knit 3 rows in stocking stitch using waste yarn of a different colour. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or holder.

Make a second (right hand) band in the same way, adding 3 button holes on the 4th row:

4th row: k2, p1, k1, cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib to end.
5th row: p2, then continue in rib as set, casting on 2 stitches over the 3 buttonholes where you cast off on previous row.
6th row: purl.

Complete with 3 rows of waste yarn as before.

Hood

Using 5mm needles, cast on 69 (73 : 75) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 8 rows.

Change to 6mm needles and work 11 (13 : 15) rows in stocking stitch.
With wrong side facing, cast off 6 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
[15 (17 : 19) sts]

Wrong side facing, continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 3 times. [21 (23 : 25) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.

Right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th (6th : 5th) row 3 (3 : 4) times. [15 (17 : 17) sts]
Work 9 (9 : 7) rows straight.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Sew shoulder and sleeve seams up to the coloured markers.
Fit the sleeves to the armholes, grafting the live stitches to the armhole edge, and sewing the sections of the sleeve seam left free to the stitches cast off at the armholes of the body.
[Editor's note: If grafting the stitches makes no sense to you, you can just cast these stitches off in the normal way and then sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole edge - and then sew the marked section of sleeve seam to the cast-off stitches of the body as instructed.
]

Sew the button band, stitch by stitch, to the right side of the work using back stitch, (undo the rows of waste yarn).

Sew up the sides of the hood. Fold the front edge in half inwards and sew round like a hem to make a channel to thread the cord through.
Sew the hood to the neck, making sure you leave the hem open at the ends.
Make a 150cm twisted cord and 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the hem of the hood. Attach the pompoms at each end.
Lightly iron the seams.

Finish the buttonholes with embroidery if desired, and sew on buttons.

Materials

Chunky or Bulky weight yarn in 50g approx 45m balls (see notes below):
7 (8 : 9) balls main pale blue shade (M) "Forget-Me-Not".
2 balls in dark blue/black (B) "Sloe".
2 balls in grey (G) "Mouse".
1 ball in Ecru. (E)

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

3 buttons..

Tension

13 sts and 18 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Chest size:
20 (22 : 24) inches,
52 (56 : 60) cm;

length from top of shoulders:
18 (19½ : 21) ins,
46 (50 : 54) cm;

sleeve seam:
7½ ( : 10) ins,
19 (21 : 25½) cm.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
garter stitch: knit every row.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original was knitted in a soft brushed chunky wool blend. Available information suggests it was sold in 50g balls with a yardage of about 45 metres per ball.

Be very careful in your choice of yarn and quantities when substituting though, as "big wool" can lead to big miscalculations - and needless to say - knit a swatch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Mittens

This is a pattern for a very simple little pair of mittens in matching colours. The mittens are attached to a cord which is threaded through the armholes of a coat so that they can hang free at the ends of the sleeves if removed (and thus don't get lost).

With 5mm needles and dark contrast colour (B), cast on 18 (18 : 20) stitches and work 3 cm in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 6mm needles and work 12 (12 : 14) rows in stocking stitch. Then work as follows:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, k1.
[14 (14 : 16) sts]
Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing, and thread it through the stitch and pull up.


To make up the mittens: sew up the sides.
In colour B, make a 130cm twisted cord and in main shade (M), make 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the sleeves of the coat - if you are making them to go with the pattern above, you can attach the cord to the neck - so it stays permanently in place. Attach the mittens at each end and attach a pompom to each mitten,

CatSleeveDiagram.jpg

CatBodyDiagram.jpg

CatHoodDiagram.jpg

October 2021

Nordic Style Cardigan

NordicCardigan3.jpg

This drop-shoulder design cardigan in cheering Nordic colours is taken from a much-loved and much-handled pattern.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - the larger sizes are shown in brackets.

When working the pattern weave the yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work; do not strand the threads over more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.

Back and Fronts (worked in one piece up to the armholes)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (R), cast on 194 [206, 218] stitches and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

These two rows form the rib. Work a further 31 rows.

Next (increase) row: p9 [12, 4], m1, * p8 [7, 7], m1; repeat from * until p9 [12, 4] stitches remain; purl to end. {217 [233, 249] sts}

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and join in white (W). Weaving in the yarns not in use, work the 2-colour pattern entirely in stocking stitch, beginning, on the right side of the work, with a knit row. Note: only the colours are specified below.

1st row (knit): 3R, * 3W, 5R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 3R instead of 5R.
2nd row (purl): 4R, * 1W, 7R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 4R.
3rd row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
4th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).
5th row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W.
6th row (purl): 1W, * 7R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
7th row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
8th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).

NordicCardigan2ColourChart.jpg

These 8 rows form the 2-colour pattern. Work a further 59 rows, up to the armholes, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Divide to separate back and fronts: With red, (R) p51 [55, 59] stitches; increase in the next stitch and leave these 53 [57, 61] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the left front;
p113 [121, 129] stitches, turn, and leave the remaining 52 [56, 60] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the right front.

Back

On these 113 [121, 129] stitches work the 36 row 3-colour pattern, weaving in the yarns not in use at the back of the work. Once again, the pattern is worked entirely in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row so only the colour details are shown. Join in blue (B).

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
4th row (purl): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
5th row (knit): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
6th row (purl): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
7th row (knit): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
8th row (purl): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
9th row (knit): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
10th row (purl): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
11th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
12th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
13th row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
14th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
15th row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
16th row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
17th row(knit): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
18th row(purl): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
19th row(knit): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.
20th row(purl): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.

[Editor's note: Rows 21-36 are a repeat of rows 1-16 worked in exact mirror image so Row 21 is the same as row 16, row 22 is the same as row 15, and so on back to the first row the same as row 36..]

21st row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
22nd row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
23rd row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
24th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
25th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
26th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
27th row (knit): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
28th row (purl): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
29th row (knit): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
30th row (purl): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
31st row (knit): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
32nd row (purl): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
33rd row (knit): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
34th row (purl): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
35th row (knit): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
36th row (purl): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.

NordicCardigan3ColourChart.jpg

Break off blue and continue in the 2-colour pattern, beginning with the 3rd row. Work 10 [10, 14] rows.

Slope shoulders: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With right side facing, rejoin the yarns to the the inner (armhole) end of the 53 [57, 61] stitches, and work in the 3 colour pattern as follows.

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 1 [5, 1] stitches remain; 1B [(1B, 4R), (1B)] .
2nd row (purl): 2B [(3R, 3B), (2B)] , * 5R, 3B; repeat from * until 3 stitches remain; 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 3 [7, 3] stitches remain; 3B [(5B,2R), (3B)]
4th row (purl): (4B, 1R) [(1R), (4B, 1R)] , * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern. Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) knit 1 row.

To shape the neck:

1st row (purl, wrong side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches, purl to end.
2nd row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * until 2 [5, 8] stitches remain; k0 [(3R), (6R)]; k2tog in R.

** Keeping continuity of the 2-colour pattern to match the main part, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 5 rows — when working the right front read 6 rows here instead — {38 [41, 44] sts}.

Pattern 2 [2, 6] rows.

Slope shoulder: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work one row, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 2 following alternate rows. Work one row.
Cast off remaining 6 [7, 7] stitches.

Right Front

With wrong side facing, rejoin red (R) at the the inner (armhole) end, increase in the first stitch, and purl to end. {53 [57, 61] sts}

Work in the 3 colour pattern as follows:

1st row (knit): 1B [(4R, 1B), (1B)], * 7R 1B; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain; 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 2 [6, 2] stitches remain; 2B [(3B, 3R), (2B)]
3rd row (knit): 3B [(2R,5B), (3B)] , * 3R, 5B; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2R.
4th row (purl): * 1R, 7B; repeat from * until 5 [1, 5] stitches remain; (1R, 4B) [(1R), (1R,4B)].

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern.
Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) work 2 rows.

To shape the neck:

1st row (knit, right side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches; knit k1R [(4R), (2W, 5R)]; * 3W, 5R; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2W.

Work as given for left front from ** to end, noting the variation.

Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade R, cast on 48 [48, 52] stitches and work 32 rows in double rib as for main piece.

Next (increase) row: k4, m1, * k1, m1; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain;k4. {89 [89, 97] sts}

Purl one row in red (R).

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work 72 rows in the 2-colour pattern as given on main piece (back and fronts).

Work the 36 rows of the 3-colour pattern as given on back.
Break off blue (B) and white (W).

With red (R) knit one row, then cast off.

Button Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 158 [158, 162] rows in k1/p1 single rib, beginning odd numbered rows with k1, and even numbered rows with p1.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Buttonhole Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 6 [6, 10] rows in k1/p1 single rib, as given for button band.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on previous row.
Rib 24 rows.

Repeat the last 26 rows 4 times more, then the 2 buttonhole rows again. Rib 19 more rows, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

Using the No 10 (3¼mm) needles holding the 13 stitches of the buttonhole band, and continuing the last row, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from right neck shaping, knit across 37 [39, 41] stitches from the back, increasing 3 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from left neck shaping, and finally rib across the 13 stitches (from the safety pin) of the button band. {112 [116, 124] sts}

1st rib row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * 5 times, k2; ** p2, k2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; p1, * k1, p1; repeat from this last * to end.
2nd rib row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * 5 times, p2; ** k2, p2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; k1, * p1, k1; repeat from this last * to end.

These two rows set the rib. Work 3 rows.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib as set to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on 1st row.

Work 12 rows in rib as set, then work the 2 buttonhole rows again.
Rib 4 rows, cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a warm iron over a dry cloth, or following any instructions on the ball band.

Set sleeves into armholes, and join the sleeve seams.
Sew front bands to respective fronts.
Turn neckband in half to the wrong side, and catch in place. Oversew the buttonhole in the neckband.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 [5, 6] 50g balls DK in main shade (R) red, plus
2 [2, 3] balls (B) blue, and
2 [2, 3] balls (W) white.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.

Tension

26 stitches x 27 rows to 4 ins (10cm) over the pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 [36, 38] inches, (86 [91, 97] cm);
length: 22 [22,
22½] inches, (56 [56, 57½] cm);
sleeve seam: 19¾ [19¾, 19¾] inches, (50 [50, 50] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working twice into the same stitch.

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2021

Casual Country Weekend

CasualCountryWeekend.jpg

Simply styled early sixties casual sweaters with separate instructions for her and for him. They are knitted in "triple knitting" yarn - a short-lived experiment by the yarn companies to introduce what is now the American "worsted" weight standard to British knitters. However, we were too much in love with our double knitting yarn - I mean that was bulky enough surely?!
However, owing to globalisation, we have now fully embraced worsted weight yarns which means we can easily find a good selection of yarn colours and fibre mixes to use with this pattern. [Failing that we always have Aran yarns to fall back on...]

The man's and womans versions are very similar - and similar in chest sizes offered as well. The changes are mainly to the proportion. However, the man's version has a set-in sleeve, while the woman's is more of square almost drop-shoulder - you can see this in the photo. I prefer the set in sleeve and if you are a woman of size 36-40 then it would be quite feasible to knit the man's sweater, adjusting sleeve and overall length to suit.

Instructions for WOMAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 80/86/92 stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/7/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [85/93/101 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 15 inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [69/77/85 sts]

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 21/21/21½ inches, ending after a first row with wrong side facing.

Next row: purl, increasing 9 stitches evenly across the row by working twice into every 7th/8th/9th stitch. [78/86/94 sts]

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 24/24/24½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 11/12/13 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 34/38/42 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 40/40/44 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 5/5/9 stitches evenly across on last row. [45/45/53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th/5th/9th and every following 4th row until there are 83//83/89 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 19 inches down centre.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.
Join shoulder and side seams. Join sleeve seams leaving 1½ inches open at the top: inset sleeves sewing 1½ inches of open sleeve seam along cast cast off stitches of armholes.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and catch down loosely; turn under rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams as before.


Instructions for MAN's version.

Instructions are given for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 90/96/102 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 3/5/7 stitches evenly across on last row. [93/101/109 sts]

With right side facing change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: * p1, Cross2K, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; p1, Cross2K, k1, p1.
2nd row: * k1, Cross2P, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; k1, Cross2P, p1, k1.

These two rows form the pattern. Continue straight in pattern until work measures 16/16½/16½ inches down centre, ending with row 2.

With right side facing shape armholes, by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69/77/85 stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until work measures 23 inches down centre, ending after a second row with right side facing.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.
Next row: * k 4/4/5, knit twice into the next stitch; repeat from * to last 4/12/7 stitches; k4/12/7. [82/90/98 sts]
Next row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Continue in k1/p1 rib until work measures 25½/26/26 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders, by casting off 8/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7/8/9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Work a further 6 rows in rib on the remaining 38/42/44 stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles, cast on 46 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib. Increase 7 stitches evenly across on last row. [53 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 4 needles and work in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th//8th/6th row until there are 73/73/77 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve measures 18½/18½/19 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape top, by casting of 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 45/45/51 stitches remain. Work 1 row back, so that the right side is facing again.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 17/17/19 stitches remain.

Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

IMPORTANT: Press parts on wrong side using a dry cloth and cool iron.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join shaped ends of neck facing with flat seam, then turn under 6 rows of the rib to the wrong side at the back neck and slip stitch loosely in position; turn under the rib in the same way across the front graduating the hem to a depth of 12 rows at the centre front.
Press seams dry cloth and cool iron as before.

[Editor's note: I imagine the heavy emphasis on the ironing instructions are specific to the original yarn. In general, if using an iron, press only very gently with a cool iron using either a dry or damp cloth as appropriate to the yarn; use the instructions on the ball band if any are given.]

Materials

In Aran or worsted weight yarn.

Woman's version:
10/10/12 x 2oz balls in colour "Dawn Azure".

Man's version:
12/12/13 x 2oz balls in colour "Brown Heather".

A pair each of Nos 4 (6mm), 6 (5mm), and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

17 sts x 22 rows to 4 ins on No 4 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

Woman's version To fit chest: 34/36/38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 24/24/24½ inches.
Sleeve down centre: 19/19/19 inches

Man's version
To fit chest: 36/38/40 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26 inches.
Sleeve seam: 18½/18½/19 inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

Cross2K: knit into the back of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then knit into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

Cross2P: purl into the front of the 2nd stitch on the left hand (but do not slip off the needle), then purl into the front of the 1st stitch, and slip both stitches off the needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2021

Cotton Mesh Beach Cover-up (and purse)

BeachMeshCoverUp.jpg

Very practical airy cover-up in a sunny colour. These tops are surprisingly effective as shelter from a hot sun. But always remember, they offer screening against scorching but are not man enough against uv - so never forget to use a good sunscreen lotion, and stay in the shade where you can.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes as this is intended an "oversized" top - but, with the specified yarn as written, it measures up to 40 inches. However, you can see from the shape and construction method, it would be easy enough to expand, either by adding stitches or experimenting with a slightly less fine thread.

Mesh Pattern:

Multiple of 3 ch plus 7 ch to turn.
1st row: into 8th chain * work 1 dtr, 2 ch, miss 2 stitches; repeat from * to end.
2nd and following rows: 5 chain to turn, which counts as 1st dtr and 2 chain, * work 1 dtr into dtr of previous row, inserting hook under 3 strands, 2 chain, repeat from * to end.

Back and Front

The beach robe is worked in one piece, beginning at the lower front edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) hook, make 195(204) chain plus another 7 chain to turn, which count as 2 ch of base of 1 st, 1 dtr and 2 ch.
Work in mesh pattern. [66(69) dtr and 2 ch spaces]
[Editor's note: this notation "dtr and 2 ch space" indicates that you have that many "holes" in the mesh, each set of 3 chain make one "hole" plus 1 as part of the turning chains.]

Work straight.
When work measures 17 inches, on this row, add 30(33) chain plus 7 ch to turn, for the sleeves.
Leave these stitches and this end of the word for a moment - do not break yarn.
At the other end of the row, using another ball of the yarn, work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the row and than make 33(36) chain. Break yarn.
Return to other stitches and yarn at the other side of the piece, then work 1 dtr into the 8th chain, 2ch, work 10(11) dtr plus 2ch spaces as for foundation row of mesh pattern, continue across 66(69) dtr of main piece, then work 11(12) dtr across chain stitches.
[88(93) dtr and 2 ch spaces].

When work measures 26¾(27¼) inches, using 1 strand of yarn from a separate ball of yarn, make front neck opening.
Work 1 slst into the 24th(26th) dtr, counting from the sleeve edge, work 122 ch, miss 40(41) dtr, 1 slst into 24th(26th) dtr from the other end of the work .
Break yarn.

Now work in mesh pattern across (88(92) dtr and 2 ch spaces.

When work measures 9¾(10¼) inches from neck opening, leave 11(12) dtr unworked at each end of the row.
Work on 66(68) dtr at the centre of work.
When work measures 17 inches from under arm, work 10 rows in dc.
Fasten off.

Work a border of 10 rows in dc at the lower edge of the front and also and around the sleeves.
Work a border of 10 rows in dc along each side of the neck, opening, decreasing 1 dc at each end of every row.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Stitch side and under arm seams.
Close neck borders by stitching together at the sides..


A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Fil d'Ecosse No 8, now discontinued but sometimes seen on eBay. This is quite a fine 100% cotton thread probably equivalent to a 3ply weight in wool. (Make sure you look for "No 8" cotton - there were other weights for this yarn - the higher the number the thicker the thread).
When substituting, compare the specified gauge and yardage per 50g to get a good match. You can search for "thread yarns", cottons for weaving, and cotton supplied on cones, as well as suitable fine knitting cottons..

At the current time of writing: Laughing Hens, Love Crafts, Yeoman Yarns, Yarnoncone

Materials

No 8 crochet cotton.
5 balls, each with a yardage of 285 metres.

No 14 (2mm) crochet hook.

For the purse: 25g No 8 crochet cotton.
1 button

Tension

13 dtrs x 10½ rows to 4 ins over mesh pattern using 2mm hook.
[39sts to 4inches in knitted stocking stitch]

Size matters

To fit size 10-12 (14); actual measurement: 40 (42) inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook
dtr: double treble: Pass wool twice round hook, insert hook into st, pull 1 loop through, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through remaining 2 loops.
slst: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BeachMeshCoverUpDiagram.jpg

Neck Purse

Back and Flap:
Begin this first sections the with flap edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) crochet hook, make 15 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, then continue in dc to end[15 dc].
1st row: 2 dc into 1st dc, 13 dc, 2 dc into last dc.
2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th rows:Work 2 dc into first and last dc.
5th, 7th, and 9th rows:Work straight
[29 dc]
11th row: Work a buttonhole at centre of work: work 13 dc, 3 ch, miss 3 sts, 13 dc.

Work straight until 58th row has been completed.
Decrease 1 dc at each end of the row, by missing 1st dc and last but one dc, on 59th, 61st, 63rd, 65th, 66th, 67th and 68th rows.
Fasten off.

Make a second section for the Front:
Make 29 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 29 dc across row for 23 rows. Decrease at each end of the row (by missing 1 st st and last but one st) on the 24th, 26th, 28th, 30th, 31st, 32nd and 33rd rows.
Fasten off.

Borders:
Rejoin yarn at the 33rd row of the beginning of the first (back and flap) section.
Work slst all the way round, working as follows:
Into the straight sections: * 1 slst into each row end 3 times, miss 1 row end, repeat from *.
Into curved sections: work 1 slst into each row end,
At the ends: work 1 slst into each dc.

1st row: On wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness
of the chain formed by the slst row.
Work a 2nd row, inserting hook into both dc of 1st row and into one thread from the edge of work. (This ensures that work lies flat and does not curl up.) This is to be worked across the top edge of flap only.

On front section of purse, work the row of slst then on wrong side of work, 1 row in dc.
Join the 2 sections with 1 row of slst.
Sew on button.
Make a cord by twisting 12 strands of wool, about 3¼ yards long. [The finished cord should measure about 34 inches].

June 2021

Cotton Tee

CottonTee.jpg

Just a really simple striped crochet tee - but I love this top - my weakness for anything seaside related and in these lovely summer colours. Can't you feel that light summer breeze and hear the water softly lapping against the side of your yacht?

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is a simple enough basic pattern - however, the pattern assumes you understand how crochet works with little or no instruction on increasing and descreasing or other techniques, so please ensure you are comfortable with the instructions before starting. I am happy to help if you need to contact me.]

Back

Using 3mm hook and white, make 120/124/128/132 chain, plus 1 ch to turn.
Work in striped dc (2 rows in each colour), working a row of holes on the second row in white as follows:
1st and 3rd sizes: 3 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.
2nd and 4th sizes: 1 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.

From the 26th row, decrease 1 stitch - by missing the first and last dc - at each end of every 12th row 7 times.
[106/110/104/118 dc]
[Editor's Note: As you can see in the diagram at the end, the top is wider at the bottom and tapers slightly up to the armhole. The eyelets at the bottom are designed so that it can gathered at the hip (not obvious in the photo). If you want a straight tee, you can start here with 106/110/104/118 dc, omit the eyelet row, and work straight in striped dc up to the armholes]

Continue until work measures 17 inches.

Shape armholes:
Decrease 5 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 6/6/7/8 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of every alternate row 2/3/3/3 times.
[80/82/84/86 dc]

When work measures 21½ inches, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row, then increase again when work measure 22¾ inches.

When work measure 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, shape shoulder by decreasing at each end of every row as follows: (the first decrease should be on the second row of the blue colour)

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/3 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 3/3/1/1 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/1 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.

This leaves 17/17/18/19 dc. Fasten Off.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 21/21/21¼/21¼ inches, after completing 2 rows in blue colour. Shape the neck by leaving the centre 16/18/18/18 dc unworked. Work on one side only, and decrease at the neck edge:
Decrease 2 dc at the neck edge of the next 2 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 4 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * twice more.

When work measures 21½ inches and 22¾, increase 1 dc at the armhole edge as you did on the Back.

When work measures 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, on the second row of the blue colour, shape shoulder as for one side of the Back.

Then work the other side of the neck to match, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using 3mm hook and white, make 70/72/74/76 chain, plus 1 ch to turn, and work 6 rows in dc.

The continue with striped dc beginning with the blue colour.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row 4 times.
[78/80/82/84 dc]

When work measures 5¾/6/6/ inches, shape armhole:

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3/4/5/5 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * 4 times more.

Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 4 rows.
Then decrease 2 dc at each end of the next 2 rows.

Fasten off.

Front neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 17/17/18/19 sl st across one shoulder, then 58/61/61/61 sl st around neck, then 17/17/18/19 sl st across other shoulder.
Turn, and on wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row, working 3 dc into the dc on the corner of the shoulder and the neck on both sides, to ease round the corner.

Crochet straight on the next 2 rows, then on the 4th row, work 13/13/14/15 dc, * 2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc, repeat from * 3 times more, (again easing round the corner). Work in the same way on the corner at the other side.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Back neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 1 row in sl st over each dc.
Then work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row.
On the 4th row, decrease 6 dc evenly over the dc on the back neck.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Making Up

Cross front shoulder borders over back.
Stitch shoulders for 2¾ to 3¼ inches.
Stitch side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.
Make a thin cord in white colour then thread through row of holes and tie at hips.

Materials

Cotton yarn equivalent to 3 or 4ply yarn weight.
4/5/5/5 balls yarn in blue, plus,
5/5/6/6 balls in white.
Editor's note: Ball weight is assumed to be 50g.

3mm crochet hook

Tension

23½ dc and 28 rows to 4 inches using 3mm hook

Size matters

10 / 12 / 14 / 16
[33 / 35 / 37 / 39 inch chest]

Approximate actual measurement: 36/38/40/42 inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
Striped dc: * 2 rows white, 2 rows blue, repeat from *

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is not one with which I am familiar and I can find no external references to it. Hence I have little idea of the thickness or yardage. Making some assumptions, based on the description, tension, and the other crochet tops, it should be a cotton blend, probably a 4 ply equivalent, with possibly around 130m to 50g. Needless to say - check the tension with a swatch, and don't skimp when purchasing the yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

CottonTeeDiagram-body.jpg

CottonTeeDiagram-sleeve.jpg

May 2021

Whitsun Holiday Hat

HolidayHat1.jpg

Knitting and crochet combine in this eye-catching candy floss striped hat which can be quickly put together in double knitting weight yarn.

This hat was designed for smart summer holidays (in the UK) in the 1950s, though it's hard to imagine wearing a woolly hat in the summer these days (even in the UK) - which is more a comment on fashion than global warming. However - easy to adapt the colour scheme for autumn and winter days.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is knitted in a fancy striped stitch (which is easier to do than to describe - see below); the top of the crown and brim are in simple double crochet.

Crown

Begin with the striped part: with pink wool, on No 10 needles, cast on 33 stitches and work in pattern thus:

1st row: k1, * insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle twice as before. [32 sts].
Leave pink hanging.
Join in white.
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop
together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice round needle.

Next row: As 3rd in white.
Leave white hanging.

3rd row forms pattern and this row is now repeated throughout, working two rows in each shade, ie your next 2 rows will be in pink
and the following 2 rows in white.

Continue thus until you have 26 pink stripes.

Next 2 rows: in white.

Cast off in white as follows:
Knit the first loop instead of dropping it, * knit together the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way; repeat from * until all stitches have been cast off; fasten off.
Join short sides together on wrong side.

With No 8 hook and white wool, make 3 chain, join into a ring with a
slip stitch. Work 2 dc in each chain. [6 dc]
Mark start of each new round with a pin to check increasings.

1st round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [12 dc]
2nd round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd round: * 2 dc in 2 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th round: * 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [30 dc]
5th round: * 4 dc in 4 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [36 dc]
6th round: * 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [42 dc] Continue thus, working 1 dc more between the increasings on every round until you have worked the round:
* 12 dc in 12 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [84 dc]

Fasten off.

Brim:

With white wool and No 5 hook, make 101 chain fairly loosely. Join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: * 1 dc in 1 chain; repeat from * all round.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc.

Next round: * 1 dc in 1 dc but going through the back loop only of each dc; repeat from * to end.
This forms edge of brim.
Work a further 4 rounds plain dc, going through both loops in the usual way.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Press top of crown only.
Fold brim in half and press.
Pin centre of crown in position to striped part, gathering striped part to fit. Sew firmly in position on wrong side with a row of back stitching about ¼ inch below edge.
Fit brim over edge of crown, so that edge of crown goes right to fold; slip-hem neatly on both sides.
Give the three thicknesses of the brim a good press with a hot iron but only a slightly damp cloth.

Don hat with best frock and cotton gloves, and go for a promenade on the sea front.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 2oz white, and 1oz almond pink.

A pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

A No 5 (5½mm) crochet hook and a No 8 (4mm) hook.

Tension

26 sts to 4 inches over striped pattern on No 10 (3½mm) needles;
16 dc to 4 inches on No 5 (5½mm) hook; 22 dc to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) hook.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2021

Made for Each Other - sweater or slipover for Spring

MadeForEachOther.jpg

Sweater in Spring colours with sleeveless option suitable for the changing season.
Currently for me, the appeal of this combination is the yellow and grey colour scheme in which they have illustrated it - although I would be disinclined to set it off with a bright all-yellow ensemble, and would probably use a more muted shade of yellow.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets up to a 40 inch chest. The design is intended for women or men (albeit men of presumably modest proportions).

Back

With No 11 needles, and main shade (M) cast on 108 (118 : 126) stitches, and work 5 inches in k2/p2 rib, beginning the second row "p2" for second and third sizes, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row for all sizes.
[109 (119 : 127) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work Fair-Isle from Chart thus:

For 1st and 3rd sizes, repeat the 18 stitches between the red lines to the last the last stitch then work the 1st stitch beyond the line.

For 2nd size, work 5 stitches before the red line, then repeat the 18
stitches between the red lines to the last 6 stitches, then work 6 stitches beyond the red line.

Continue until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves, or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the sleeveless slipover, ending with a
wrong-side row.

Armholes shaping:

Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 77 (85 : 91) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and then 5 (7 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off 37 (41 : 43) stitches.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 11 (11¾ : 12) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 12 (12¾ : 13½) inches for the slipover.

Front shaping:
Next row: pattern 54 (59 : 63) stitches; turn.

Continue on these stitches only.

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and ever following 4th row until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the slipover, ending at the side edge.

Armholes shaping:
Still decreasing at the centre front edge on every 4th row as before, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows.

Continue with centre front edge shaping until until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches, ending at the side edge.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row. Cast off 5 (7 : 9) stitches and break yarn.

With right side facing, slip the centre front stitch on to a safety pin.
Join yarn to inner edge of the the remaining stitches and complete the other side of the front to match, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 56 (66 : 74) stitches and work 3½ inches in k2/p2 rib, as for the Back,and decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the last row for all sizes.
[55 (65 : 73) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and working from the Chart as for the Back, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 10th row until there are 75 (83 : 89),stitches.
Continue straight until work measures 17 (17½ : 18) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

To shape the top cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 43 (49 : 53) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 (8 : 10) rows.
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Neckband:

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches down left side of neck, increase in the stitch from the safety pin, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches up right side of neck, and then knit 36 (40 : 44) stitches from the Back neck.

1st row wrong side facing): * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.

Decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front 2 stitches on every row, rib 9 more rows as set.
Cast off ribwise.

Join left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armbands for Slipover:

With right side facing, using No 11 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 118 (130 : 142) stitches round each armhole.
Work 9 rows in k2, p2 rib beginning the second row "p2".

Cast off ribwise.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Sweater with sleeves: Set in sleeves. Join side and sleeve seams.
Slipover: Join side and armband seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn in 25g balls:
Sweater:
9 (11 : 12) main colour (charcoal);
7 (7 : 8) in white;
5 balls in light grey for all sizes.
Slipover:
7 (8 : 11) main colour (white);
5 in contrast charcoal all sizes;
3 (3 : 4) in contrast yellow.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (37 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 21 (22½ : 24) inches; sleeve seam: 17 (17½ : 18) inches.

Abbreviations

increase: increase 1 stitch by knitting twice into the next stitch.

decrease: decrease 1 stitch by knitting two stitches together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Robin Vogue DK which was 90% wool. It appeared as both 25g and 1 oz balls depending on the era, and may have been pure wool at one time.

Some information indicates a yardage of 112m for 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.

MadeForEachOtherChart.gif

February 2021

Spring Outlook

SpringOutlook

Man's sweater with a textured pattern, made in two colours intended to blend with each other. The overall tweedy look makes this colour scheme look a little autumnal - perhaps the acid green combined with grey or a different shade of green might be more redolent of Spring.
I think the cropping of the picture is an illustration of "never let knitting get in the way of a good photo".

Instructions.

Sweater is worked in stripes of the two colours using a textured moss stitch. Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike

With No 9 needles and main shade (M), cast on 104/108/112 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7/9/11 stitches evenly across the last row.
[111 / 117 / 123 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and work in pattern as follows:
Do not break off colour M, and join in contrast (C).
1st row, using C (right side facing): Knit in contrast colour (C).
2nd row, using C: Knit in C.
Do not break off C, but pick up M again.
3rd row, using M: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row, using M: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Do not break off M, but pick up C again ready for the next row.

These 4 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in the pattern until work measures 16 inches, ending with the second row of the pattern.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 91 / 95 / 99 stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25 / 25½ / 25½ inches, ending with 4th pattern row.
Break off contrast C.

With right side facing continue in M and shape neck:
Next row: Rib 29 / 30 / 31, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Rib to end
Next row: Rib 27 / 28 / 29, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Next row: Cast off 7 / 8 / 9 in rib, rib to last 2 stitches, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Next row: Cast off 8 / 8 / 8 in rib, rib to last 2 stitches, rib 2 stitches together.
Next row: Rib 2 stitches together, rib to end.
Cast off remaining 8 / 8 / 8 stitches in rib.

With right side facing, slip the centre 33 / 35 / 37 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Rejoin M wool to last 29 / 30 / 31 stitches, rib to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 / 52 / 52 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across the last row.
[50 / 59 / 59 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in C and continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 8th row until there are 79 / 83 / 83 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Continue straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 18½ / 18½ / 19 inches, ending with 2nd pattern row.

With right side facing, keeping pattern correct, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 37 / 39 / 39 stitches remain.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 21 / 21 / 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck Ribbing - back and front alike.

With No 9 needles, main shade M, and right side facing, start at shoulder edge and pick up and knit, 8 / 8 / 8 stitches down side of neck, rib 33 / 35 / 37 stitches from spare needle or stitch holder, pick up and knit 8 / 8 / 8 stitches up other side of neck.
[49 / 51 / 53 sts]

Work 3 rows in rib over all stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row.

Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.
Join neck with a flat seam.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press all seams.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
16/17/18 x 1oz balls in darker main shade(M);
12/13/13 oz in contrast "cool lime"(C).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 9 (3¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Spare needle or stitch holder.

Tension

20sts and 25 rows to four inches on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
37-38/39-40/41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26 inches;
sleeve seam:
18½/18½/19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
M: main dark colour
C: contrast lighter colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Flair - one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never caught on so much in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight . As usual no clues as to the yardage, but it was 60% wool, 40% courtelle (acrylic).

Note that later on Patons made "Flair DK" in 20g balls and with a slightly different wool blend.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SpringOutlook-detail

January 2021

Fuller figure twinset

FullerFigureTwinset.jpg

"Fuller figure" shown off on a suitably matronly figure for the post-rationing 1950s - but actually means a pleasing pattern in a reasonable size range for this century.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 6 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Jumper Back


With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 116 (122 : 128 : 132 : 138 : 148) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1, p1, rib, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5, repeat from * to last 4 (7 : 10 : 6 : 9 : 8) stitches, work twice into next the stitch, rib 3 (6 : 9 : 5 : 8 : 7).
[135 (141 : 147 : 153 : 159 : 171) sts]

Change to size 8 (4mm) needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p3, * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows once, then the 1st row once.

6th row: * knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch, p3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit into back of stitch, p1, knit into back of stitch.
7th row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice.
12th row: As 2nd row.
These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping the continuity of the pattern, cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 59 (65 : 71 : 75 : 81 : 91) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches remain.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder

Jumper Front

Follow the instructions for the Back from to until 69 (73 : 77 : 79 : 83 : 93) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Neck:

1st size only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 24 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 13 stitches remain.

Keeping the neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes only
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (25 : 26 : 27 : - : -) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Still decreasing at armhole edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until - (17 : 21 : 25 : - : -) stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 13 stitches remain. Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

5th and 6th sizes only:
Next row: k2tog, pattern - (- : - : - : 28 : 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until - (- : - : - : 13 : 16) stitches remain. Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

All sizes:
Slip the centre 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches onto a spare needle. Join in wool at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Short Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 80 (86 : 86 : 92 : 92 : 98) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for ¾ of an inch, ending with a wrong side row and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and work in pattern as given for the Back until the work measures 3 (3 : : : : ) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 57 (67 : 65 : 71 : 69 : 73) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 9 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open.
With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, knit across the 9 stitches at the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 17 (19 : 21 : 21 : 23 : 23) stitches at the centre front; pick up and knit 18 (18 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 20) stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 9 stitches on the top of the Right Sleeve, and knit the 37 (39 : 41 : 41 : 43 : 45) stitches from the back neck.
[108 (112 : 116 : 116 : 120 : 126) sts]

Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cardigan Back

Follow the instructions exactly as for the Jumper, but on completion cast off the stitches at the back neck.

Cardigan Left Front

Using size 10 needles, cast on 60 (60 : 66 : 66 : 70 : 76) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 6 : 6 : 5 : 5), repeat from * to last 6 (6 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 8) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 5 (5 : 4 : 4 : 4 : 7).
[ 69 (69 : 75 : 75 : 81 : 87) sts]

Change to size 8 needles and pattern as given for Back until work measures 12 (12 : 12½ : 12½ : 13 : 13) inches, from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Armhole and Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 (4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 6) stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th (5th : 4th : 5th : 4th : 4th) row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until 13 (17 : 19 : 22 : 24 : 29) stitches remain.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sizes only:
Still decreasing at the neck edge as before, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until - (8 : 9 : 7 : 9 : 9) stitches remain.

All sizes:
Keeping neck edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog, and fasten off.

Cardigan Right Front

Follow the instructions exactly as for Left Front, reversing all shapings.

Cardigan Long Sleeves

Using size 10 needles, cast on 58 (60 : 60 : 62 : 62 : 64) stitches and work in k1, p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7), * work twice into the next stitch, rib 4 (5 : 5 : 3 : 3 : 4), repeat from * to last 4 (6 : 6 : 7 : 7 : 7) stitches, work twice into the next stitch, rib 3 (5 : 5 : 6 : 6 : 6).
[ 69 (69 : 69 : 75 : 75 : 75) sts].

Change to size 8 needles and pattern.
Increase, and work into the pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the 11th and every following 16th (10th : 10th : 11th : 11th : 8th) row until there are 81 (87 : 87 : 93 : 93 : 99) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Top:
Follow instructions for Sleeves of Jumper from to .
Cast off.

Cardigan Front Bands

Using size 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for ½ (½ : ½ : ¾ : ¾ : ½) of an inch.
1st Buttonhole row: Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd Buttonhole row: Rib, casting on 3 stitches over the cast off stitches in the previous row.
Work 4 more buttonholes at intervals of 2½ ( : : : : ) inches, measured from base of previous buttonhole.
Continue in rib until Band is long enough, slightly stretched, to fit up Right Front, across sleeve tops, back neck and down Left Front.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Jumper
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Sew zip into left back raglan seam, then join remainder of seam.

Cardigan
Using a back stitch, join raglan, side and sleeve seams.
Sew on Front Band. Neaten buttonholes and sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting
Jumper:
18 (19 : 20 : 21 : 23 : 25) x 25g balls
Cardigan:
24 (26 : 27 : 29 : 30 : 32) x 25g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles

4 inch (10 cm) zip fastener for back neck of jumper

5 buttons for cardigan

Tension

26 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern

Size matters

To fit chest 40 (42 : 44 : 46 : 48 : 50) inches - actual measurements are 1½-2 inches larger;
length from top of shoulders: 22 (22¼ : 23 : 23¼ : 24 : 24½) inches;
short sleeve seam:
3 (3 : : : : ) inches;
long sleeve seam:
16 (16 : 16½ : 16½ : 17 : 17) inches

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn Emu Superwash Double Knitting. This is a standard pure wool double knitting which was also available in 50g balls measuring 130 yards (119 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2020

Nordic Slipover

NordicSlipover3.jpg

A cute seasonal sleeveless sweater.
Co-incidentally I see that Wardrobe Icons have featured "knitted vests" as an "unexpected hero" this week, having "fallen in love with how versatile it is as a layering piece". They illustrate it with 3 shapes including fair-isle patterns with a closer fit and plain with a relaxed fit.
You could replace the Nordic style pattern given here with any fair-isle pattern of your choosing, just repeating it across the width of the sweater, making sure to centre the pattern - for example the Shetland Folklore pattern which is worked over a 10 stitch repeat.
I have a "relaxed fit" example in polka dots, which could easily be knitted plain.

Instructions

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
Work from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 106 [114, 120, 128] stitches and work in K1/P1 for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 1 [5, 4, 4] * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 1 [5, 4, 4] stitches, m1, rib 1 [5, 4, 4].
(133 [141, 149, 159] sts).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work in pattern from the chart, joining in and breaking off colours as required, working the first 4 [1, 5, 3] and last 3 [0, 4, 2] stitches on knit rows, and the first 3 [0, 4, 2], and the last 4 [1, 5, 3] stitches on purl row as indicated, and working the 14 stitch repeat pattern 9 [10, 19, 11] times across in between.

Continue until back measures 14½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.

**

Shape Armholes:
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, then at each end of every alternate row until 95 [99, 105, 109] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until back measures 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 9 [8, 10, 9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
(45 [47, 49, 51] sts).

Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back up to **.

Shape Armholes and Neck:

Next row: keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches, and pattern until 60 [64, 68, 73] stitches are on the right hand needle; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on first set of stitches only.
Work one row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, and then on every alternate row, at the same time, decrease 1 stitches at the neck edge on the next row, and every alternate row until 38 [39, 41, 42] stitches remain.

Then continue to decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every alternate row until 32 [34, 37, 39] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every following 3rd row until 25 [26, 28, 29] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until front matches back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
(9 [8, 10, 9] sts).

Work one row, and then cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 66 [70, 74, 79], and pattern to end.

Work to match the first side, reversing the shaping.

Making Up

Press lightly using a cool iron and dry cloth - or as instructed on the ball band - omitting the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches down left neck, knit stitch from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread), pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches up right neck, then knit 45 [47, 49, 51] stitches from Back, decreasing 3 stitches evenly.
(187 [197, 203, 213] sts).

1st row wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.

2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl, k1; ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Cast off evenly in rib, decreasing at marked stitch as before.
Join left shoulder and neckband.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 118 [124, 132, 138], stitches round each armhole.

Work in k1/p1 rib for 9 rows.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4 ply in each of the three colours (all sizes).

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 32 rows to 4 ins (10cm) measured over pattern using 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches;
length: 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

p2togtbl: purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Clansman 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2020

Footnote - Argyll Socks

ArgyllSocks.jpg

Socks created in two colours with the fair isle technique. Less common these days, now that we can create such exciting coloured socks with self-patterning yarns. Nonetheless quite satisfying since space dyed skeins cannot produce this lovely traditional Argyll pattern.

Instructions.

Each sock is worked in three (attached) sections - leg, upper foot, and lower foot - and mostly using only 2 needles, but these needles need to be double points (that is, pointed at both ends).
Note: When working from chart, carry the yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep the fabric elastic.

Leg and instep

Starting at the top leg, using 2 needles and Main Shade (MS), cast on 78 stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 4 inches, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row : 77 stitches.

Start with a knit row, working in stocking stitch in pattern from chart, joining in Contrast (C), reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right, until 75 rows have been worked.

Next row: pattern 18, increase in the next stitch, pattern to last 19 stitches, increase in the next stitch, pattern to end : 79 stitches.
Break yarns.

Slip first and last 20 stitches on spare needles for heel.
Rejoin yarns where required and continue on the centre 39 stitches for the instep, working in pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right, until 76 rows have been worked.
Break C.

Continue in MS and stocking stitch (1 row knit one row purl), starting with a knit row, until foot is required length, allowing 2½ inches for toe shaping and ending with a purl row. Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Heel and sole:

Slip the 2 groups of 20 stitches on to one needle....
[Editor's note: Here you are joining the sock into its circular shape by folding in the edges to work the heel and sole - thus the stitches are arranged with the edges of the work meeting in the middle of your needle. You are continuing to work on two needles.]
...and with right side facing and MS, work as follows:

1st row: k19, k2tog, k19.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, * sl1 purlwise, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: purl.
Rep 3rd and 4th rows for 2½ inches, ending with a 3rd row.

Turn heel as follows:
1st row: k1, p19, p2tog, p1, turn.
2nd row: k3, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.
3rd row: p4, p2tog, p1, turn.
4th row:
k5, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.
5th row: p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
6th row: k7, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, turn.

Continue in this way until all the stitches have been worked : 21 stitches.

Next row: p21 stitches, then pick up and purl 18 stitches down side of heel piece, turn.
Next row: k39 stitches, then pick up and knit 18 stitches down other side of heel: 57 stitches.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 35 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work matches the patterned instep piece, ending with a purl row.

Toe:

Next row: k18 and now (finally) arrange the stitches on 3 needles for working the toe in the round as follows:
1st needle: k17 under foot stitches;
2nd needle: k39 instep stitches
3rd needle: knit remaining 18 underfoot stitches.
Slip the 1st from each end of the 2nd needle on to the end of the 1st and the beginning of the 3rd needle: 18/37/19 stitches.

Work in rounds shape toe as follows:
1st round:
1st needle:
knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1;
2nd needle:
k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1;
3rd needle:
k1, sl1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds until 22 stitches remain.
Knit the stitches from the 1st needle on to the 3rd needle and graft or cast off stitches from two needles together.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.

Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 3 ply yarn in main shade and 1 in lighter contrast.

Set of four No 13 (2¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.
[Editor's note: The instructions assume you will work 78 sts on 2 of your DPNs so you need to ensure they are long enough, or use 2 extra DPNs that are.]

Tension

36 sts x 44 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Length from top to base of heel: 13½ inches (34 cm);
length of foot: 10½ inches (27cm).

Abbreviations

MS is main shade (Lovat Heather).
C
is contrast (white).

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was Patons Nylox 3ply in colours Lovat Heather (2002) and Snow White (504).

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2020

Robin Hood and Maid Marion

BeltedSweaters.jpg

Long-line sweaters with belts at hip level. Very up-to-the-minute sixties styling - but somehow I feel they should have been shown in Lincoln Green - no?

Instructions

The main body of the sweater is knitted in "rice stitch" which is knitting a kind of sparse moss or seed stitch with some of the knit stitches on the right side worked into the back of the stitch.

Back:


Using size 10 needles, cast on 115 (119, 123, 131, 139, 143, 147) stitches.
1st row
: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more.

Change to size 8 needles and pattern:
1st row (Right side facing): [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, k9, p2 * ; [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl; repeat from * to * once; [k1tbl, p1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

2nd row: k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k17, p9; k8 (8, 10, 14, 18, 18, 20).

3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from *to * once, [k1tbl, p 1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row
: As 1st row.
6th row
: As 2nd row.

7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times, * p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 6 times, k1tbl, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, * [k1tbl, p1] 12 (14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) times, k1tbl, repeat from * to * once, [k1tbl, p1] 3 (3, 4, 6, 8, 8, 9) times.

8th row: As 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures approximately 5 inches from the beginning, ending with the 8th pattern row.

Make Slots for Belt:

Next row: Pattern 6 (6, 8, 12, 16, 16, 18) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 25 (29, 29, 29, 29, 33, 33) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining stitches, pattern 13 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle. Work 8 rows on these stitches. Break off yarn.

Join in yarn to remaining 6 (6, 8, 12, 16, 16, 18) stitches, work to end.
Work 8 rows on these stitches.

Next row: Work in pattern across all stitches.

Continue in pattern until work measures approximately 15 (15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16½, 16½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row. Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread to facilitate easier working when joining raglan seams.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, work as follows:

1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 7th sizes only.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and 3 (3, 3, 3, -, -, 1) following 4th rows. 107 (111, 115, 125, -, -, 143) remaining.

All sizes .

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row

until 55 (57, 57, 59, 59, 61, 63) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread.

Shape Shoulder Sections:
Cast off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 31 (33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 39) stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Follow instructions as for the Back from to , until 79 (81, 81, 85, 87, 89, 91 ) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape one side of the Neck:
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern 29 (29, 29, 30, 31, 32, 32) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 16 (16, 16, 17, 18, 17, 17) stitches remain.
Keeping neck edge straight, continue to decrease at armhole edge as before until 12 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row. Mark end of last row with a coloured thread.
Shape Shoulder by casting off the remaining 12 stitches.

Shape other side of the Neck:
Slip the centre 17 (19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in yarn at neck edge to remaining stitches, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Complete to match first side of neck.

Sleeves:

Using size 10 needles, cast on 53 (53, 57, 57, 61, 61, 61) stitches.

Using size 10 needles, cast on 115 (119, 123, 131, 139, 143, 147) stitches.
1st row
: * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more.

Change to size 8 needles and pattern:
1st row (Right side facing): [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times; * p2, k9, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

2nd row: k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26), p9, k17, p9, k29 (33, 33, 33, 33, 37, 37); p9, k22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26).

3rd row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, sl3F, k3, k3 from cable needle, k3, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row
: As 1st row.
6th row
: As 2nd row.

7th row: [p1, k1tbl] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, p2, k3, sl3B, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2, [k1tbl, p1] 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times.

8th row: As 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Increase and work into pattern, 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (9th, 9th, 8th, 8th, 7th, 6th) row until there are 73 (77, 81, 85, 89, 93, 97) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until! work measures 16 (16½, 16½, 17, 17, 17½, 17½) inches for her and 17 (17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches for him from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.
Mark each end of last row with a coloured thread.

Shape Raglan Top:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and 3 (2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1) following 4th rows. 65 (71, 75, 79, 83, 89, 93) stitches remaining.

Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 13 stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Mark each end of last row with a coloured thread.
Work a further 2 inches, ending with a wrong side row. Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Neckband

With right side of work facing and using size 8 needles, knit across the 13 stitches on top of Left Sleeve, pick up and k20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) stitches down left side of neck, knit across the 17 (19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) stitches at centre, pick up and k20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 13 stitches on top of Right Sleeve and the 31 (33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 39) stitches on back neck: 114 (118, 122, 126, 130, 132, 136) stitches.
Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch.
Change to size 10 needles and work ½ inch.
Change to size 8 needles and work 1 inch.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Belt

Using size 10 needles, cast on 13 stitches.

1st row (Right side facing): * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1 , repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for 36 (36, 38, 38, 40, 40, 42) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 3 stitches remain. Knit 3 together and fasten off.

To Make Up

Using a back stitch, join raglan seams, shoulder sections and neckband, matching coloured threads on raglan to coloured threads on sleeve top.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neckband in half onto wrong side and slip stitch down.
Sew buckle to straight edge of Belt.
Thread Belt through Slots.

Press seams lightly under a damp cloth.

Materials

23 (24, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31) x 25g balls double knitting wool.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Buckle for belt.

Tension

24sts x 34 rows to 4 ins measured over rice stitch.

Size matters

Actual chest measurement: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44 46) inches Length to centre back neck: 23 (23¾, 24¼, 25¼, 25¾, 26½, 27) ins Her sleeve seam: 16 (16½, 16½, 17, 17, 17½, 17½) inches
His sleeve seam: 17 (17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches

Abbreviations

k1tbl: knit through the back of the stitch.
sl3f: slip next 3 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work
sl3b:
slip next 3 sts on to cable needle and leave at back of work

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool superwash yarn.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2020

Camisole party frock

PartyDress.jpg

A very pretty strappy knitted dress which is styled for the summer, but, as usual, would work well for the winter, perhaps with a sparkly yarn, and worn with a bolero, tippet, or stole - if we are ever allowed to go out in public any time soon....

Instructions

The pattern panel for the dress is worked over 5 stitches as follows:

1st row: yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1.
4th row: purl.

Back

**
Using No 7 (4½mm) needles, cast on 135 stitches and knit one row.

Work in Pattern A as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 5 times, k3, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, k3; repeat from * to last 11 stitches; (yfwd, k2togtbl) 5 times, k1.

2nd row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1

3rd row: k2, * (k2tog, yfwd) 5 times, k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 5 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

4th row: as 2nd.

These 4 rows form Pattern A.

Repeat them until back measures 15 inches, ending with 4th pattern row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k1, (k2tog) twice, (yfwd, k2tog) 3 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, sl1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, sl1, k2tog, psso repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k2togtbl, k1. [111 sts]

Continue in Pattern B as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

2nd row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, k3, *(yfwd. k2togtbl) 3 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3; repeat from * to last 9 stitches, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k1.

3rd row: as 1st row.

4th row: k2, * (k2tog. yfwd) 4 times. k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 4 rows form Pattern B.

Repeat them until back measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k1, (k2tog) twice, (yfwd, k2tog) twice, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, sl1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last 9 stitches , (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k2togtbl, k1. [87 sts]

Continue in Pattern C as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

2nd row: k1, (k2tog , yfwd) 3 times, k3, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) twice, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k3; repeat from * to last 7 stitches; (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k1

3rd row: as 1st row.

4th row: k2, * (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 4 rows form Pattern C.

Repeat them until back measures 22 inches.

Place a marker at each end of last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in Pattern C until back measures 4 inches from markers, ending with right side facing.

Next row: cast off 21, k8 (this includes the stitch on the needle from casting off), slip these 8 stitches on a safety-pin, cast off 29, k8, slip these 8 stitches on a safety-pin, cast off remaining 21 stitches.

Work shoulder strap as follows:
With wrong side facing and No 10 needles, rejoin yarn to 8 stitches on safety-pin and work in stocking-stitch, starting with a p. row, until strap measures 16 inches. Cast off.
Work 2nd strap in the same way.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.

Next row: cast off 44, place a marker in the last of these stitches, cast off remaining stitches.

Join side seams of skirt.

Bodice

With No. 10 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work in rib as follows:

Next row: k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

This row forms rib pattern. Repeat it until strip, when slightly stretched, fits along upper edge of skirt from outer side of shoulder straps to marker at centre front.
Place a marker in "k3." edge of strip.
Rib 4 more rows.
Place a 2nd marker in opposite end.

Now continue in rib until length from 2nd marker matches length from cast-on edge to 1 st marker.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Starting at outer side of shoulder strap, sew first half of bodice strip in position, first marker matching centre marker of front.
Now fold under upper edge of strip, bringing 2nd marker also to centre marker of front, thus twisting the strip, then sew 2nd half of strip in position, ending at outer edge of other strap (thus leaving back edge between straps free).
Sew side edges Of bodice strips to approximately 4 inches of shoulder straps, then sew straps to front. Face straps with ribbon on wrong side
[Editor's Note: The bodice only goes around the front of the dress; it might be easier to see how you are intended to sew it to the straps if you look at the picture of the back of the dress below.]

Cut lining the full width of skirt but 2 inches longer than skirt when lying flat. Allow ½ inches for seams and 1 inch for hem.
Join side seams, then catch top of lining in position all round top of skirt.

Pin hem in position, then try dress on before stitching, to be certain lining is the correct length.

Materials

Dress: 6 x 50g balls of a light weight double knitting. (See"a word on the wool").

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1¼ yards (about 1.2m) of 1 inch (2.5cm) wide facing ribbon.

1¾ yards (about 1.6m) of 36 inch (90cm) wide lining material in a matching shade.

Tension

25 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 7 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust 34 - 36 inches. Length (excluding shoulder strap) measured flat is 30 inches. (The dress drops to 32 inches when worn)

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward
sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Kismet which which was 80% acrylic and 20% mohair; it was a fairly light weight yarn, and it was the fluffiness that caused it to knit to something like a DK equivalent (on the right needles).

This pattern emphasises the light weight nature of the yarn with an open-work pattern knitted on large needles.

The other thing to note is that it had an exceptional yardage - about 225m to 50g which is about double that of a normal DK, so you need to take all that into account when considering substituting.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Altering the size

Unusually for this era, we have only the one size - perhaps they think those more well-endowed would not suit this style - and maybe they are right - certainly I don't think I could make it work for me.
However, if you did want to make it larger, I really think the only option is to work out the repeats in the pattern and add some extra width in the skirt - then knit the bodice section (it's knitted sideways) longer, and workout where to reposition the straps.
On top of that, if were knitting this, I would try using a delicate lace-weight yarn (there are some lovely ones around), swatching the pattern, and experimenting with different needles to get the right tension.
But then I never did like an easy life.

PartyDress-back.jpg

I'm putting this photo in to show you the back of the dress, but I can't let it pass without commenting that to me it's very vaguely sleazy - I think "come to bed eyes" would be the description. It's almost as if the photographer were more used to using his skills for a different kind of audience altogether...

June 2020

Crochet a Cardi

CrochetCardi.jpg

This looks like a very wearable crochet cardigan (for those who prefer crochet to knitting). Bands of two-row stripes in double crochet are arranged to form a flattering chevron down the centre back, giving the illusion of shaping. You could make it in a single shade, or go totally wild as shown in the photo - or you could choose more muted contrasts in naturals, perhaps greys and taupes with ecru. If you choose brights you could be guided more by Kaffe Fassett's favourite combinations, introducing turquoises with fuschia and poppy.

So .... "Make it plain and simple or bright and stunning"

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.
[Editor's Note: The cardigan is made up of a series of narrow crochet strips which are then sewn together lengthways; the colours in the strips are offset from one another to make the chevron pattern, and they are made shorter to make the armholes and sleeve shaping.]

Main Part

1st Band: With 4mm hook and main shade (A) make 8 chain.
Foundation row: —Miss 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch to end. {7 dc}
1st Row: l ch, 1 dc in each dc.
Repeat 1st row for pattern.
Continue in pattern working 2 row stripes of the 5 contrasts (B, C, D, E, F) and main shade (A) until 40 [42 : 44 : 46] stripes are completed, ending with D [F : B : D] stripe; mark this stripe with contrast thread for centre back.
Beginning with C [E : A : C] stripe work sequence in reverse from F to A for 39 [41 : 43 : 45] more stripes, ending with A stripe.
Fasten off.

2nd Band: Make as the 1st band , but beginning and ending with contrast colour B and with centre back stripe of E [A : C : E].
Join to 1st band.

3rd Band: As 1st, but beginning and ending with contrast colour C and with centre back stripe of F [B : D : F].
Join to 2nd band.

Continue in this way, beginning and ending with next stripe of colour sequence, until the 9th band is complete.

Right Front

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour E and work 16 [17 : 18 : 19] stripes. Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Next Band: Begin with A and work 14 [15 : 16 : 17] stripes. Omit one stripe at each end of the previous band; join.

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour C and work 12 [13 : 14 : 15] stripes. Join as previous band.

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour E and work 11 [12 : 13 : 14] stripes. Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Shape shoulders:

Next Band: With A make 7 [8 : 10 : 11] chain. Work the foundation row and the 1st row as you did in the first band. {6 [7 : 9 : 10] dc}.
Work 2 stripes.
* Next Row: l ch, (insert hook in next dc) twice, yrh and draw through 3 loops - decrease worked - 1 dc in each dc to end.

Continue in stripes, decreasing 1 stitch at eh beginning of every 4th row until 2 dc remain. Work 1 row. Fasten off.
Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Back

Reversing stripes at centre as given for main part continue thus:

Next Band: Beginning and ending B [C : D : E] work 35 [37 : 39 : 41] stripes. Omit 5 stripes of 9th band of main part for armhole; join.

Next Band: Beginning and ending D [E : F : A] work 33 [35 : 37 : 39] stripes. Omit 1 stripe at each end of previous band ; join.

Next Band: Beginning and ending F [A : B : C] work 31 [33 : 35 : 37] stripes. Join on as last band.

Next Band: As last but beginning and ending A [B : C : D]; join.

Shape shoulders:

With B [C : D : E] ** make 3 [3 : 5 : 5] chain. Work the foundation row and the 1st row as you did in the first band. {2 [2 : 4 : 4] dc}.

Next Row: l ch, 2 dc in next dc - increase worked - 1 dc in each dc to end.
Continue in stripe pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every 4th row until there are 6 [7 : 9 : 10] dc,
Work 1 row. **
Work 16 [14 : 16 : 14] stripes, reversing stripes after 8th [7th : 8th : 7th] of these stripes. Complete as right front shoulder from *.
Sew on.

Left Front

As right front to shoulder shaping, reversing stripes and shapings, and missing 5 stripes of last band of main part for armhole.

Shape shoulders:

Beginning D [E : F : A], work as shoulder shaping of back from ** to ** . Work 2 [1 : 2 : 1] stripes. Fasten off. Sew on.

Sleeves

1st Band: beginning with A, work as for 1st band of main part, repeating 6 stripes of A, B, C, D, E and F until there are 22 [22 : 24 : 24] stripes.

2nd Band: beginning with B, work as 1st band.
Sew on.

3rd Band: beginning with B, work 24 [24 : 26 : 26] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end sew on to 2nd band.

4th Band: beginning with C, work as for 3rd band. Sew on.

5th Band: beginning with C, work 26 [26 : 28 : 28] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end, sew on.

6th Band: beginning with D, work as for 5th band. Sew on.

7th Band: beginning with D, work 28 [28 : 30 : 30] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end, sew on.

8th Band: beginning with E, work as 7th band. Sew on.

9th Band: beginning with E, work 30 [30 : 32 : 32] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe at each end, sew on.

10th Band: beginning with F, work as 9th band.

Now shape top:
11th Band: beginning with D, work 24 [24 : 26 : 26] stripes. Omitting 3 stripes at each end of previous band and sew on.

12th Band: beginning with F, work 22 [22 : 24 : 24] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end of previous band and sew on.

13th Band: beginning with B, work 20 [20 : 22 : 22] stripes. Sew on as last band.

Making Up

Press work lightly.
Join shoulder and sleeve seams.
Set in Sleeves.

Edging:
Using the 3½mm hook join A to centre back at lower edge.

1st Round: l ch, 1 dc in end of each row or dc around entire outer edge, working 3 dc in the corners; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
2nd Round (make buttonholes): 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to corner; 3 dc in corner dc, 1 dc in 23 dc, (3 ch, miss 2 dc, 1 dc in 10 dc) 4 times, 1 dc in each dc to end, working 3 dc in centre dc of left corner; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
3rd Round: 1 ch, now working in reverse from left to right work 1 dc in each dc and ch; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
Fasten off.

With main shade A work around sleeve edges to match.
Sew on buttons. Press seams.

Materials

5 [6 : 7 : 8] (25 gram) balls double knitting yarn in the main colour, plus,
4 [5 : 6 : 7] balls in each of 5 contrast colours.
[Editor's Note: Crochet works up quickly but does rather eat up the yarn; this cardigan needs a total of up to 24 x 50g balls of DK. The yarn used in the original was an acrylic with a yardage of approximately 150m or 164yards per 50g.]

4mm and 3½mm crochet hooks.

Tension

Pattern strip is 1¾ inches wide and 18 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inches;
length: 23 [23 : 23½ : 23½] inches;
sleeve: 18 inches all sizes.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2020

Chic Criss-Cross Blouse

Criss-Cross.jpg

The criss-cross front on this knitted blouse is a new*, exciting idea. It fits close and snug around the waist, and does up With eight buttons - four at the back of the neck, and four at the waist. The main part is in plain k1/p1 rib, while the bands are in a fancy rib stitch.
* New in the autumn of 1938.
... and being from the 1930s, there is only one set of instructions to fit a modest 34-36 inch chest - however, they do suggest using different needle sizes to make a minor adjustment within that size range.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size only; you can slightly alter the size by using different needles as indicated in the pattern materials.

Front

Start with the belt as follows:
Cast on 27 stitches.

1st row: Slip 1,* slip 1 knitwise, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1 knitwise, k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, *p1 into back of slip stitch, k3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1 into back of slip stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows (which form the pattern) until work measures 13½ inches, then, with right side facing: * work to last 3 stitches, turn, and work back. Work straight across tow rows then repeat from * twice.

Now shape as follows:
1st row: Work 3 stitches, turn, and work back.
3rd row: Work 5 stitches, turn, and work back.
5th row: Work 7 stitches, turn, and work back.
Continue thus, taking 2 more stitches into every alternate row until you work across all stitches.
Work 3 rows straight, then put stitches on a holder.

With right side facing, pick up and knit 46 stitches, commencing 3½ inches in from the holder, and ending 6 inches from beginning of work along upper edge (inside of curve) for right front. [The 6 inch straight piece left should reach to the centre back.]
[Editor's Note: The point I notice most here is that if 6 inches is allowed for on each side reaching round to the centre back, then the implication is that the total waist size is only 24 inches (4 x 6). This is a pretty neat little waist - even for the stated size - so it might be worth checking that the belt reaches round your waist, sitting just above the hips as shown in the picture.]

Work 19 rows in k1/p1 rib over these 46 stitches.
Leave on a spare needle.

Work a second piece to correspond to the first to make the left front, working all shapings at the opposite ends of the needle. (ie: commence picking up stitches with right side facing, 6 inches from commencement, and start the rib with p1).

The two front pieces are now joined together as follows:
Work across the 46 stitches of the left front in k1/p1 rib, then placing the 27 stitches from the first holder (right belt) in front of the work, work across them in fancy rib, and then work across 27 stitches from 2nd holder (left belt) in fancy rib, and then finally, work the remaining 46 stitches from spare needle (right front) in k1/p1 rib.
When joining fancy pieces, work together the last stitch of first piece with first stitch of second piece, and make sure that the right welt lies on top of left. [145 sts].

Now continue over all stitches:
1st row (wrong side facing): (k1, p1) 23 times, work in fancy rib pattern on next 26 stitches, k1, work in pattern on next 26 stitches (p1, k1) 23 times.
2nd row: (p1, k1) 23 times, work in pattern on next 26 stitches, p1, work in pattern on next 26 stitches, (k1, p1) 23 times.
Continue repeating these 2 rows, at the same time increasing 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until there are 165 stitches on the needle (keep increased stitches in k1/p1 rib).

Now work straight until front measures 11 inches, or length required; it is advisable to measure yourself here and make sure that the belt fits snugly round the natural waistline.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work ½ inch straight on these 129 stitches, increasing once in the centre stitch of the last row, and then shape left shoulder.

1st row (right side facing): Rib 38 stitches, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
2nd row: Increase in first stitch, rib to end.
3rd row: Rib.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows until you have 46 stitches; now decrease at the neck edge on every row until 37 stitches remain, then on every alternate row until 23 stitches remain.
Work should now measure 6¾ inches from commencement of armhole shapings.
Shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows at the armhole edge, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch on the 2 alternate rows at the neck edge.

Return to the main work, and complete the right shoulder to correspond.
Then work on the centre panel as follows (right side facing):
Work 27 stitches in pattern, turn, leaving other 27 stitches on a spare needle, and work back.

1st row:Work 3 stitches, turn, and work back.
3rd row: Work 5 stitches, turn, and work back.
5th row: Work 7 stitches, turn, and work back.
Continue thus, taking 2 more stitches into every row until you again work over all stitches.
Work back and then ** work 4 rows straight.
Next row: Work 17 stitches, turn, and work back.
Repeat from ** 3 times.
Now work straight for 10½ inches and cast off.
Work remaining 27 stitches to correspond, reversing all shapings.

Back

Cast on 114 stitches and work 28 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Now increase at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 134 stitches on the needle. Work straight until side seam equals that of front to underarm, then shape armhole by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 4 at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until work measures 4¼ inches from commencement of armhole shapings.
Next row: Rib 42, cast off 14, rib 42, and continue on these last 42 stitches only, leaving remainder on a spare needle.

Shape neck by casting off 2 stitches at the neck edge on the following 5 alternate rows, and then k2tog at this edge on the following 9 alternate rows [23 sts].
Now shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the armhole edge at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch on the 2 alternate rows at the neck edge.
Work the remaining 42 stitches to correspond.

Sleeves

Cast on 91 stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Change to fancy rib as for belt, and increase at each end of the 4th and every following 3rd row until there are 125 stitches on the needle.
With right side facing, shape top by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 29 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press very lightly only with a warm iron under a damp cloth.
Join side, shoulder and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, gathering all fullness to the top of the shoulder.
Take the loose end of the fancy band from the right front, underneath that of the left front, and stitch to the left front edge of the neck round to centre back.
Take the left front band over that of the right front, and stitch to the right front edge of the neck round to centre back.
Stitch bands into position at bottom of front, and also across back, meeting at the centre.
Work a row of double crochet all round neck and bottom edges and both back openings, making 4 button loops for neck fastening and 4 for waist fastening. Sew on buttons to match.

Materials

8 ozs 3 ply.

According to size: Two pairs of No 10 (3¼mm) needles for 34-36 inch chest.
or
Use two pairs of No 11 (3mm) for 33 inch chest.
Or
Use No 9 (3¾mm) for 37 inch chest.

Eight small buttons

One No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm) crochet hook.

Tension

34 sts to 4 inches on No 10 (3¼mm) needles for 34-36 inch chest.
Or
36 sts to 4 inches on No 11 (3mm) for 33 inch chest.
Or
32 sts to 4 inches on No 9 (3¾mm) for 37 inch chest.

Size matters

One size to fit 34-36 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18 inches. Options to slightly decrease or increase the size by using different needles to achieve different tensions.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Super Crêpe.

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Criss-CrossFancyRib.jpg

April 2020

Bunny Slipovers

BunnySlipovers.jpg

Sweet little sleeveless jumpers for toddlers with Easter bunny motifs.

Instructions.

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Twist the yarns on wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

**
With No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 76 [84, 90] stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 [7, 10] (m1, rib 10) 7 times, m1, rib 3 [7, 10]:
84 [92, 98] sts.

Change to No 11 needles and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking-stitch until back measures 1½ [2, 2] inches, ending with right side facing.

Change to No 10 needles and joining in contrast colour (C) as required, work rows 1-20 inclusive from chart A [B, A]

.

Work the first 0 [1, 1] stitch on knit rows and last 0 [1, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated, repeating the 12 [13, 12] pattern stitches 7 [7, 8] times across - and the last 0 [0, 1] stitch on knit rows, and first 0 [0, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Break C.
[Editor's note: The charts are fairly easy to read but these instructions may make them seem more complicated than they are.
If this helps at all - rather than making it worse:
On the first size using chart A you just repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work with no extra stitches at either end (12 x 7 = 84).
On the third size chart A also, you repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at either end to make up the 98 stitches (12 x 8 = 96 plus 2).
On the second size chart B, you repeat the 13 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at one end to make up the 92 stiches (13 x 7 = 91 plus 1).]

Change to No 11 needles and continue in M and stocking stitch until back measures 4½ [5, ]inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 54 [58, 64] stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 48 [52, 56] stitches remain. **

Continue straight until back measures 9 [10, 11] inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4 [5, 6] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Leave the remaining 30 [32, 34] stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for Back from ** to ** .
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape neck as follows:

Knit 18 [19, 20], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 9 [10, 11] stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 12 [14, 16] stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Making Up

Using a cool iron and a damp cloth for Baby Wool, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, start at the top of the left shoulder and work as follows:
Pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches down left side of neck, k12 [14, 16] from centre, pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches up right side, then knit 30 [32, 34] from back :
96 [104, 112] sts.

Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join left shoulder seam, then join neckband with a flat seam

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, pick up and knit 86 [94, 102] stitches round each armhole and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.

Cast off evenly in rib.
Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

Baby 3 ply 25g balls: 2 in main colour and 1 contrast colour (all sizes).

Pair each No 13 (2¼mm), No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 40 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 20 [22, 24] inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 9 [10, 11] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Baby 3ply - a version of which is still available today.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2020

Comfortable week-end jacket

MansLumberJacket11.jpg

Perfect for our current wintery spring.
Every man loves a comfortable lumber jacket for casual week-end wear.
[And I'm sure many a woman loves a comfortable man just like this one - if not the dog as well.
Notice that Roger has been wisely supplied with a lovely thick pair of leather gloves for this photo shoot...]

Instructions.

Instructions are given for one medium man's size only.

Back

With No 10 needles, cast on 109 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.

Change to No 8 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row [Right side facing]: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: Purl.

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Work straight in pattern until back measures 16 inches.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of following 2 rows: [91 sts]

Work straight until back measures 24 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; cast off remainder fairly tightly.

Left Front:

With No 10 needles, cast on 55 stitches and work 34 inches in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 8 needles and, in pattern, work straight until front measures 16 inches.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 2 rows [46 sts]
Purl back.

Work 41 rows straight in pattern, then with wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every row until 30 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back to the start of the shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Right Front:

Work to correspond with the left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles, cast on 57 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 8 needles and pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row until there are 83 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18½ inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 41 stitches remain; then, at each end of every row until 25 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work on wrong side under a damp cloth.

Neckband:
Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and knit 85 stitches all round neck.
Work l¼ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Insert zip-fastener at front opening.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn 19 ozs - shown in colour Wine.
[Editor's note: 1 oz is approximately 28g However the quantity you require depends on the length of the yarn rather than the weight so this can be only a guide.]

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

A zip fastener (double-ended - suitable for a jacket).
[Editor's note: no length is suggested for the zip, and probably better to measure, or monitor the length as you make the jacket.]

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 39-41 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 25 inches; sleeve seam: 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MansLumberJacket12.jpg

February 2020

Against the Cold

AgainstTheCold.jpg

This 1930s sweater has good news and bad news. The good is that it's made in a yarn weight that is more popular today than then - that is a heavy DK or worsted. And as a consequence, the bad news is that the instructions are only given for one size, and with limited opportunity to alter the size by using thicker yarn.
I have referenced some reading material at the end of the instructions, that might help you with adaptations if you are feeling that adventurous.

" An unusual broken trellis pattern makes this warm country jumper. The casual polo collar does up at the back with three buttons, and the button-up idea is carried out again on the front of the welt. ".

Instructions.

Instructions are given for only one small/medium size.

Back

With No 8 needles, cast on 70 stitches and work 3½ inches in k2, p2 rib. In the last row increase to 80 stitches by working twice into each of the first and last 5 stitches of the row. Change to No. 7 needles and pattern as follows:
1st row: * (p2, k2) twice, p10, k2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2, k10, (p2, k2) twice, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * p1, k2, p2, (k2, p4) twice, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k1 (p2, k4) twice, p2, k2, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
5th and 6th rows: * (k2, p2) 5 times, repeat from * to end.
7th row: * k1, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k1, repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
9th row: * p10, (k2, p2) twice, k2, repeat from * to end.
10th row: * p2, (k2, p2) twice, k10, repeat from * to end.
11th row: * k, 1, p10, (k2, p2) twice, k1, repeat from * to end.
12th row: * p1, (k2, p2) twice, k10, p1, repeat from * to end.
13th row: * k2, p10, (k2, p2) twice, repeat from * to end.
14th row: * (k2, p2) twice, k10, p2, repeat from * to end.
15th row: * p1, (k2, p4) twice, k2, p2, k2, p1, repeat from * to end.
16th row: * k1, p2, k2, (p2, k4) twice, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
17th and 18th rows: * (p2, k2) 5 times, repeat from * to end.
19th row: * k1, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k1, repeat from * to end.
20th row: * p1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, repeat from * to end.
21st row: * (k2, p2) twice, k2, p10, repeat from * to end.
22nd row: * k10, (p2, k2) twice, p2, repeat from * to end.
23rd row: * k1, (p2, k2) twice, p10, k1, repeat from * to end.
24th row: * p1, k10, (p2, k2) twice, p1, repeat from * to end.

These 24 rows form the pattern, which is repeated throughout.
When work measures 12 inches from commencement shape for armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then k2tog at each end of the next 2 rows.
Work for 1 more inch and then change to k2, p2 rib (beginning and ending rows on the right side with k2).
Continue straight until rib section measures 3 inches, and then divide for neck opening:

Next row: Rib across the first 30 stitches, k6, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Work on these 36 stitches, keeping the 6 stitches at the inside edge in stocking-stitch, and after ½ an inch make a buttonhole as in the front welt (see instructions below).

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, k2, cast off 2, work to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches to replace those cast off in the previous row.

When work measures 19 inches from commencement cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows at the armhole edge, and in the same row as the first casting-off make another buttonhole as before.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Return to the remaining 30 stitches, cast on 6 stitches and, keeping these in stocking-stitch, work to correspond with the first side, but omitting the buttonholes.

Front:

Begin with the right welt.
With No 8 needles cast on 40 stitches.

1st row: k6, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
2nd row: k2, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p6.

Repeat these 2 rows once and then make a buttonhole as follows:
5th row: k2, cast off 2, work to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches to replace those cast off in the previous row.

Continue in pattern for 1 inch, and then make another buttonhole in the same way, then work for 1 more inch and make another buttonhole.
When work measures 3½ inches, ending with a purl row, leave on a spare needle and make another piece for the left welt to correspond, but omitting the buttonholes.
When this second piece measures 3½ inches, increase by working twice into first 3 stitches (side edge), work across next 31 stitches, then, holding the spare needle with the right welt stitches in front of the remaining 6 stitches of the left welt, knit through one stitch from each needle and take off together; work to the last three stitches and work twice into each of these (80 stitches).
Work 1 more row right across in rib.

Now change to No 7 needles and pattern as for back, and continue until 3½ inches of the yoke ribbing have been done.

Next row (right side facing): Rib 27, leave 12 stitches on a spare needle, rib 27.
Continue to work on the last 27 stitches, casting off 3 at the beginning of every row at the neck edge until 18 stitches remain.
Work straight until front measures 19 inches from commencement.

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.
Work remaining 27 stitches to correspond.

Sleeves:

With No 8 needles, cast on 32 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib for 3 inches.
In the last row increase to 42 stitches by working twice into each of the first and last 5 stitches of the row.

Now change to No 7 needles and pattern, but after 2 inches have been done, increase in the next and every following 4th row until there are 62 stitches on the needle, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18½ inches from commencement, then, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With the set of No 8 needles and front of work facing, take the 18 stitches from the spare needle at the left back, pick up and knit 19 over the left shoulder, take 12 from the spare needle at the front, pick up and knit 19 over the right shoulder, and take the 18 from the spare needle at the right back.
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib. Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Sew up side and sleeve seams, and insert sleeves.
Stitch the cast-on stitches of the under-lap down.
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes and fasten collar with press studs.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting or Worsted weight: 14 ozs.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.
A set of 4 No 8 (4mm) needles or a circular needle.

Five large buttons.

Tension

20 stitches to 4 inches using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-36 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 19½ inches; sleeve seam: 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

This 1930s pattern is given in only one size - which to be fair is a "medium" although I suspect the average size for women is rather larger than medium these days. The original yarn was Patons Totem - which was a double knit weight but came in a number of guises over the years I believe - and the tension and needles indicate it's more like a worsted weight. So it's not so easy to simply increase the size by using a thicker yarn - it might work if you check your tension, but the resulting sweater might be unappealingly chunky for the intended style.

Geraldine Warner has produced a helpful book about how to approach adapting vintage patterns - however, don't be confused as it is published under two different titles - but it's the same book. Also note that this is a book of techniques and "how to" - it's does not contain any knitting patterns:
Knit Back in Time or also known as Vintage Design Workshop

Whatever you choose to do, when adapting - always knit a swatch!

Pattern detail:

January 2020

Traditional Arans

TraditionalArans.jpg

A set of conventional Aran sweaters in a good range of sizes.
Patterns include, twisted cables, lobster claw, diamonds, blackberry or trinity stitch, and double moss stitch.

Instructions

Back:


Using size 10 needles, cast on 70 (74, 80, 84, 88, 94, 102, 106, 112) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 10, 14, 3, 2) * work twice into next stitch, rib 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4); repeat from * to last 4 (6, 6, 7, 9, 9, 13, 3, 2)stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 3 (5, 5, 6, 8, 8, 12, 2, 1).
[ 92 (96, 104, 108, 112, 120, 128, 132, 140) sts]

Change to size 7 needles and pattern.
1st row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p1, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p6, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p1, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

2nd row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

3rd row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p2, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, *p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

4th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

5th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p3, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p3, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

6th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

7th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p4, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

8th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k5, sl2b, p2, p2 from cable needle, k5, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

9th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

10th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

11th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p3, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p3, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

12th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

13th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [k4, p1] twice, k2, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, k2, [p1, k4] twice, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

14th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

15th row: [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p1, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p6, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, * p12; repeat from * to * once, [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

16th row: [k1, p1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times, * [p4, k1] twice, p2, k1, p2, k8, p2, k1, p2, [k1, p4] twice, * [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] 3 times; repeat from * to * once, [p1, k1] 1 (2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13) times.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12 (13, 14, 14½, 15, 15, 15½, 15½, 16) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 80 (84, 86, 90, 92, 94, 96, 100, 104) stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 7½ (, 8, , , , 9, , ) inches from commencement of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Follow instructions as for the Back, from to .

Continue without further shaping until work measures 5 (, , , 6, , 6½, , 7) inches from commencement of armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on a spare needle.

Shape Neck:
Next row: Pattern 32 (34, 34, 36, 37, 37, 38, 39, 41) stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 10) rows.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as Back to shoulder, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 6 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 6, 7) stitches.

Slip the centre 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22) stitches on to a spare needle.
Join in yarn at neck edge to remaining stitches, and pattern to end. Complete to match first side of neck.

Sleeves:

Using size 10 needles, cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.
Next row: Rib 2 (5, 8, 5, 3, 7, 5, 2, 7) * work twice into next stitch, rib 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 2, 3, 3, 3); repeat from * to last 2 (5, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 2, 7) stitches, work twice into next stitch, rib 1 (4, 7, 3, 2, 5, 4, 1, 6).
[ 62 (62, 62, 62, 62, 66, 66, 70, 70) sts]

Change to size 7 needles and pattern.

1st row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p1, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p6, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p1, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

2nd row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

3rd row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p2, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

4th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

5th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p3, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p3, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

6th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

7th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p4, sl2f , p1, k2 from cable needle, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

8th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k5, sl2b, p2, p2 from cable needle, k5, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

9th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p4, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p4, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

10th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, p2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

11th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p3, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p2, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p3, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

12th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

13th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, [k4, p1] twice, k2, p2, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p4, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p2, k2, [p1, k4] twice, p8, k2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

14th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog] twice, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

15th row: [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, k2, p8, C4B, p1, C4F, p1, k2, p1, sl1b, k2, purl stitch from cable needle, p6, sl2f, p1, k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1, C4B, p1, C4F, p8, k2, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

16th row: [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times, p2, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, [p4, k1] twice, p2, k1, p2, k8, p2, k1, p2, [k1, p4] twice, [p3tog, k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch] twice, p2, [p1, k1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times.

These 16 rows form the pattern.

Increase, and work into the double moss, 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (9th, 7th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 5th, 6th, 5th) row until there are 72 (74, 78, 80, 84, 88, 92, 94, 98) stitches on the needle.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 15 (16, 16½, 17, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 18½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 52, 50, 50, 52) stitches remain, then 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30) stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Using a back stitch, join right shoulder seam.

With right side of work facing and using size 10 needles, pick up and knit 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 23) stitches down side of neck, knit across the 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22) stitches at centre, pick up and knit 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 23) stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42) stitches on back neck.
[90 (90, 94, 98, 98, 102, 102, 106, 110) sts]

Work in k1, p1, rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and press lightly with a warm iron over a damp cloth, omitting ribbing.

[Editor's Note: Avoid over-pressing the pattern stitches as this will flatten out cables or other textured stitches - in fact spraying the work with water, pinning out to shape (ie blocking), and leaving to dry naturally can work better than pressing.]

Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.
Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Set in Sleeves.
Fold neckband in half on to wrong side and slip stitch down.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) x 50g balls.

Pair each No 7 (4½mm) and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

19sts to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Actual chest measurement: 28½ (30½, 33½, 35, 37, 40½, 43½, 45½, 48½) ins
Length: 20¾ (22, 2, 24, 24¾, 25, 25¾, 26, 26¾) ins
Sleeve seam, 15 (16, 16½, 17, 17½, 18, 18, 18½, 1) inches

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
sl2f: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work.
sl1b: slip next stitch on to cable needle and leave at back of work.
sl2b: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at back of work.
C4B: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at back
of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
C4F: slip next 2 sts on to cable needle and leave at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a branded Aran Bainin (which from Gaelic indicates an undyed white yarn). So substitute any Aran weight yarn.

The tension here indicates a lighter weight Aran - almost veering towards the American worsted weight. So as always - check your tension, and, as usual, you'll have to guess the quantity allowing for the fact that it's a pure wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2019

Smock Pinafores

SmockTops75.jpg

Pretty and easy to make knitted pinafores, providing a practical alternative to full knitted dresses which may be too warm for most centrally heated homes in this era.

Instructions.

This is the plain bodice, striped skirt, design in two colours.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (L); work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in L
2nd row: Purl in L
3rd row: Using D: k2, * sl2, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Using D: p2, * sl2, p2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Knit in L
6th row: Purl in L
7th row: Knit in D
8th row: Purl in D
9th row: Using L: sl2, * k2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Using L: sl2, * p2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
11th row: Knit in D
12th row: Purl in D

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until back measures approximately 6½/8/9/10½ inches ending on the 11th pattern row.

Next row: Using D: purl 13/2/0/5 stitches; (p2tog, p0/1/1/1) 31/29/33/31 times; p2tog, purl 13/3/1/6
[58 / 64 / 68 / 74 sts]

Starting with a knit row, continue straight in stocking-stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 42/48/52/58 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 36/40/44/48 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 3/4/4/5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 22/24/26/28 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 10/11/12/13; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 11/12/13/14 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 7/8/9/10 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 3/4/4/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 12/14/16/18 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 12/14/16/18 stitches from the front, pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 up the right side; then knit 22/24/26/28 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
2/2/2/2 balls in the contrast colour

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

L: main shade (light)
D: contrast (dark)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


Instructions.

This is the pinafore with the patterned bodice design in three colours.

Note: When working colour pattern from the chart, strand yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
When changing twist yarns on the wrong side to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left
to right.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Break off colour D

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (M), and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7///11 inches ending with a knit row.

Next row: purl 4/10/10/7 stitches; (p2tog, p2/2/2/3) 20/18/20/18 times; p2tog, purl 4/10/10/7
[69 / 75 / 81 / 87 sts]

Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Note: Repeat the 6 pattern stitches 11/12/13/14 times across and last 3 stitches on knit rows and first 3 stitches on purl rows as indicated.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 47/53/59/65 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 43/47/51/55 stitches remain.
**

Work straight in pattern until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 27/29/31/33 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 12/13/14/15; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 13/14/15/16 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/9/10/11 stitches remain.
Work straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4/4/5/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 15/17/19/21 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin appropriate colour yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 15/17/19/21 stitches from the front decreasing 2 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 up the right side; then knit 27/29/31/33 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seams and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
1 balls in of the two the contrast colours.
Editor's note: Colour names to conjure with:
Aqua Gem, Gay Turquoise, Blue Slate and Wild Rose....

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

M: main (aqua)
L: light (pink)
D: dark (blue)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

October 2019

Dr Watson's Lopi Sweater

Lopi2019.jpg

I have always loved Lopi sweaters (whatever the era) and I thought the one worn by Martin Freeman in Sherlock (2011 - was it that long ago?!) was especially good. I love the navy base and the Christmassy air about it. For all I know, in the context of the show, it may have been meant as a joke Christmas jumper - but I love it despite many Sherlock fans labelling as ugly (ugly?!).
As you can see this pattern I have provided here, as made popular in the 70s and 80s, goes with the muted natural tones of the era, so you would need to change the colours to your own choice - mine being navy white and red, of course. You can, however, see in the picture what a difference the colour scheme makes; both his and hers sweaters are knitted to the same pattern, and yet with a change to the main shade and order of contrasts it looks like quite a different pattern.

Instructions.

Note: When working colour pattern from chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across wrong side of work over not more than 3 stitches at a time to keep fabric elastic.
Read all rounds knit from right to left.

Back and Front (alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 75 [79, 83, 87, 91, 95] stitches, and work in K1/P1 rib for 4 inches (10cm), right-side rows having K1 at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10], m1, (rib 15 [16, 17, 17, 18, 19, m1) 4 times, rib to end.
{80 [84, 88, 92, 96, 100] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 15½ (15½, 15, 14½, 15, 14½] inches, (39 [39, 38, 37, 38, 37] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until
64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves (two alike)

With 5mm needles and main shade A, cast on 33 [35, 37, 39, 39, 41] stitches, and work in rib as on Back for 4 inches (10cm), and ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Rib 2 [3, 4, 2, 2, 3], m1, (rib 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6, m1) 6 times, rib to end.
{40 [42, 44, 46, 46, 48] sts}.

Change to 6mm needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [3rd, 5th, 3rd, 7th, 7th) row.

Continue in stocking stitch in main colour only on 6mm needles and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 8th [8th, 9th, 9th, 9th, 8th] row until there are 58 [60, 60, 64, 64, 68] stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] inches, (44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm), ending with a P row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times.

1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th sizes only: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row. Work 1 row.

All sizes: Leave remaining 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke and Neck Border

With right side facing, slip the first 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back on a spare needle with points at both ends.
With right side facing, using six 6½mm needles (or a 6½mm circular needle) and main shade, knit across the remaining 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes, then knit 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from left sleeve, 64 [66, 68, 72, 74, 76] stitches from the front, 44 [46, 44, 48, 48, 50] stitches from the right sleeve, and finally 32 [33, 34, 36, 37, 38] stitches from the back, increasing 2 stitches evenly across these stitches for the 5th and 6th sizes as before; so you now have all the pieces joined in a circle with the beginning of the round at the centre back.
{216 [224, 224, 240, 248, 256] sts}.

If you are using 6 double pointed needles, then divide the stitches evenly on 5 needles. Mark the first stitch of the round with a coloured thread, then joining in and breaking off colours as required, work the 32 [32, 32, 36, 36, 36] rounds from Chart A [A, A, B, B, B], repeating the 8 pattern stitches 27 [28, 28, 30, 31 , 32] times across and decreasing where indicated.
{81 [84, 84, 90, 93, 96] sts}.

Chart A

Chart B

Break 1st and 2nd contrasts and continue in main shade only.

Shape Back as follows:
1st row: Knit 7 [8, 8, 9, 10 , 11], turn.
2nd row: Purl 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22] turn.
3rd row: Knit 21 [24, 24, 27, 30 , 33], turn.
4th row: Purl 28 [32, 32, 36, 40 , 44], turn.
5th row: Knit 14 [16, 16, 18, 20 , 22].

Change to set of four (or circular) 5mm needles and decrease 1 stitch on the first round on 1st and 5th sizes only (to make them an even number of stitches).
Work in K1/P1 rib for 3 [3, 3, 4, 4 , 4] inches, (8 [8, 8, 10, 10 , 10] cm). Then, using a 6mm needle, cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing press lightly following any instructions on the ball band.

When making up a chunky garment it is easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing. If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 76cm lengths and a large needle, making sure the yarn keeps its original twist by turning the needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join armhole, side and sleeve seams. Press seams.
Fold the neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Materials

Chunky knitting yarn:
13 [14, 15, 16, 17, 18] 50g balls in main shade.

2 balls in each of 2 contrast colours for all sizes.

Pair each 5mm, 6mm, and 6½mm needles.
Set of four 5mm and 6½mm needles, plus
two spare 6½mm needles with points at both ends.
Editor's note: Or use 6½mm circular needles, although you may need to transfer to a set dpns if circulars become too difficult to manage as the yoke decreases in size.

Tension

15sts and 20 rows to four inches on 6mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 [42, 44, 46, 48, 50] inches; (102 [107, 112, 117.122, 127] cm).
Actual size: 42 [44, 46, 48, 50, 52] ins;
(107 [112, 117, 122, 127, 132] cm).
Length from top of shoulders:
25½ [26, 26, 26½, 27, 27] ins;
(65 [66, 66, 67, 69, 69] cm).
Sleeve seam:
17½ (17½, 17½, 19, 19½, 19½] ins;
(44 [44, 44, 48, 49, 49] cm).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

DrWatson.jpg

Note that Dr Watson has patterning just above the welts on the body and the sleeve.
If you want to knit the actual original, it is Alafoss 52 - again looking quite different in the natural tones associated with Icelandic sweaters.

Alafoss52.jpg

September 2019

Country Wear Pullover

CountrySlipover.jpg

Fair-Isle pullover or vest in bright colours, with the added interest in that it is knitted sideways.

Instructions:

The pullover is worked sideways using the Fair-Isle technique. Strand the wools not in use loosely across the back of the work.

Back

Begin at the left side edge. Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade natural yarn cast on 84 stitches.
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across.

When the 10th row of the chart has been completed, continue in pattern, working armhole increasings as shown on the chart, and keeping the extra stitches in pattern as indicated.
At the beginning of the 24th row, cast on 50 stitches to complete the armhole. [147 sts]

Continue in pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the shoulder edge at the end of the 29th, 37th, 45th, and 53rd rows as indicated. [151 sts]
Work straight until the 78th row of the chart has been completed.
This brings you to the centre back.

For the second half of the back, work down from top of chart, that is: 77th, 76th, 75th, 74th rows, etc, still reading from right to left on knit rows and left to right on purl rows.
Remember on this half of the back to decrease 1 stitch at the shoulder edge on the 53rd, 45th, 37th and 29th rows, and to cast off 50 stitches at the beginning of the 24th row for the armhole, then to decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 84 stitches remain.

Work straight to the end of the chart, then purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Front

Begin at the right side and work exactly as for the first half of the back until the 57th row has been completed. [151 sts].

Divide for neck opening:
58th row: Cast off 15, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 9 purl rows as indicated on the chart. [91 sts]
Work 2 rows straight to the end of the 78th row of the chart.

For the second half of the front, work down from the top of the chart as before, casting on stitches at the neck edge to correspond with those cast off on the first half, and decreasing at the shoulder and armhole edges as indicated.

When the chart is complete, purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Ribbed welt

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 140 stitches along the lower edge of the back.
Work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib: cast off in rib.

Work the front welt in the same way.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, beginning at the centre back, pick up and knit 88 stitches to centre front.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the centre front on alternate rows; cast off in rib.

Work the other half to correspond.

Armhole bands

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 160 stitches round each armhole.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts well under a damp cloth.
Join side seams.
Join neck ribbing at centre back and front.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 x 1oz balls of 4 ply fingering in main shade (natural), plus 1 oz each in 6 contrast colours: brown, yellow, blue, rust, emerald, white.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 39-41 inches.
Length: 23 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

For a pdf version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

August 2019

Colour-wise fashion

MustardYellowSweater.jpg

I love the styling of this photo - the poise of the model, the "clashing" colour combination, the bracelet, and the lovely use of the location which makes the very best of the look of fresh summer rain.

This is a fairly simple pattern where the vertical contrast stripes are made by stranding the unused colour across the back (as opposed to intarsia) and this makes for a slightly more interesting 3D effect, even though they compensate by changing needles and stitch count over the different sections.
Not everyone likes mustard (or yellow...) but I think this sweater looks quite sophisticated as the colours are close on the colour wheel but not really matching. I have a sweater in pink with orange trim which gives a similar effect (less violent than it might sound!). Bear in mind also that mustard can be a difficult shade to pin down - so it could be gold or beige - just make sure it tones perfectly with your pencil skirt....

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.
Y = Sunglint Yellow and M = French Mustard

Back and Front alike

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 100 (106) stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 1¼ inches, increasing 14 (16) stitches on the last row by working twice into every 7th (6th) stitch 14 (16) times: [114 (122) sts]

‡‡
Change to No 7 needles and work 36 rows vertical stripes, stranding wool loosely the slipped stitches, thus:

1st row: Using Mustard yarn (M), * k2, keeping wool at back of work, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
2nd row: Using M, * p2, slip 2 purlways; rep from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
3rd row: Using Yellow yarn (Y), * keeping wool at back slip 2 purlways, k2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: Using Y, * slip 2 purlways, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, slip 2 purlways.

Repeat the last 4 rows 8 times more.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking stitch in yarn Y, thus:

Next row: * k 7 (8), k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches; k6 (2): [102 (110) sts]

Work 13 rows straight in stocking stitch.

Join in yarn M, and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.
‡‡

Work 13 rows in yarn Y.

Next row: * p7 (8), purl twice into next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 (2) stitches, p6 (2): [114 (122) sts]

Repeat from ‡‡ to ‡‡

Continue in yarn Y and shape armholes by casting off 5 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 knit rows: [80 (86) sts]

Next row: * p 6 (9), purl twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, p 10 (6): [90 (94) sts]

Change to No 7 needles, join in M and work the 36 rows of vertical stripes.
Break M.

Change to No 8 needles.

Next row: * k6 (9), k2tog; repeat from * to last 10 (6) stitches, k10 (6): [80 (86) sts]
Work 13 rows stocking-stitch in yarn Y.

Join in M and work horizontal stripes of 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M, 2 rows Y, 2 rows M.
Break M.

Shape shoulders: by casting off 6 (7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Work a further 6 rows on the remaining stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
Cast off loosely.

Back and Front alike

Make a second piece for the front exactly as instructions above.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and yarn Y, cast on 48 (50) stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row until there are 70 (72) stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (16½) inches.
With right side facing, shape top, by casting off 4 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 (32) stitches remain.
Purl back, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 (14) stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join shaped ends of neck facing.
Turn under 6 rows stocking-stitch across the back of the neck and 6 rows across the front, but graduating hem to a depth of 12
rows at centre front; catch down lightly on wrong side.
Press all seams and neck facing lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn: 13 (14) oz in Sunglint yellow, and 4 (4)oz French Mustard

Pair each No 7 (2¾mm), No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

22 sts x 28 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 23 (23) inches;
sleeve seam: 23 (23) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Totem Double Crepe which was a pure wool standard double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MustardYellowSweater2.jpg

July 2019

Sun Set

SunSet1.jpg

The era of the "set" — a sweet and quirky twin set for you to enjoy while soaking up the sun.
[I would, but I have a serious case of teeny tiny waist envy].

Instructions

This is a two-piece: a bolero with pointed edge, and a sleeveless top with back and front V-neck.

Bolero Back

Begin at the back of the neck.
With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 36 stitches fairly loosely, and work 1 row in k2, p2 rib.

With right side facing, continue in rib, casting on 18 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 stitches at the beginning of the
following 10 rows for shoulders. [132 sts].
Work straight in rib for 7½ inches from the end of the shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape for armholes by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, then cast on 8 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, taking the extra stitches into the
rib as they are made. [156 sts].
Work 10 rows straight.

** Here divide for points:

Next row (right side facing): rib 78, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Continue to work backwards and forwards on these 78 stitches using
three needles thus: rib 39 stitches on to 1st needle; with 2nd needle sl1, k1, psso, rib to end; * with spare needle, rib to last stitch of next needle, purl this stitch; with spare needle sl1, k1, psso, rib to end.
Repeat from * until all stitches are gone. Fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 78 stitches and
work to correspond with first half. **

Bolero Fronts

Left bolero front: Begin at the shoulder.
With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 18 stitches and work row in k2, p2 rib.

With wrong side facing, continue in rib, casting on 6 stitches at the
beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows. [48 sts].
This completes shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, continue in rib and shape front edge by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row (front edge) then on every following 4th row, 18 times in all, taking the extra stitches into rib as they are made; afterwards keep the front edge straight. When the armhole (straight edge) measures 7½ inches from the end of the shoulder shaping, with wrong side facing, increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, then cast on 8 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row. [78 sts].
Work 10 rows straight.

With right side facing, shape as for back by working from to .

Right bolero front: Work as for left, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (two alike)

With two No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 116 stitches and work
3½ inches in k2, p2 rib.

Continue in rib, shaping the top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 66 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 32 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Sun Top (back and front alike)

With two No 13 (2¼mm) needles, cast on 126 stitches and work
4 inches in k2, p2 rib.
Change to two No 12 (2¾mm) needles and continue in rib, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 4th row until there are 156 stitches. Work straight until piece measures 11¾ inches from the start.

Here divide for points exactly as given for back of by working from ** to ** .

Making up

Press parts only very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder and sleeve seams of bolero and side seams of sun top.
With crochet hook and white wool, work edging all round points of sun top; all round points, up fronts and round back of neck on bolero
thus:-
Join wool to edge of knitting, 6 chain, * miss 2 stitches of knitting, 1 treble in next stitch, 3 chain; repeat from * ending 1 treble in last stitch of knitting; fasten off.

Cords: Take 6 strands of Viridian each 60 inches long and twist tightly together; then fold in half allowing two halves to twine round each other to form a cord; thread through holes in crochet edging on inside edges of points of sun-top; make a similar cord for back inside edges, then two more in red for outer edges of points.
Knot ends together on shoulders. In the same way make a red cord to go round front points and all round back of neck of
bolero, then make one in viridian to go round points of
back.
Secure ends on wrong side at underarms.
Join crochet edgings together from underarm for inches to form side seams of bolero. Insert sleeves. Turn back cuffs and press lightly in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

3ply fingering:-
Bolero: 5oz in white and small amounts in Viridian (blue-green) and Lipstick Red.
Sun Top: 4oz in white and small amounts in Viridian and Lipstick Red.

A set of 4 No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
One pair of No 13 (2¼mm) needles.
One No 13 crochet hook.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of
34sts x 42 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

One size only to fit 34-35 inch chest;
length from top of shoulders to point on bolero: 17 ins;
from top of point to lower edge on sun top: 18½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2 ins (cuff turned back).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SunSet2.jpg

June 2019

Three-ounce top I

3ozHighNeck.jpg

Very pretty lacy tops with the emphasis on wool economy.
The style of this pattern in conjunction with the price (3d), the emphasis on economy, and its pattern sequence number is giving me mixed messages as to the date; however general opinion seems to be that these patterns are from the late 1940s.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.
Note that the two different sizes are achieved by using different needles sizes as well as different numbers of stitches.

Front

With No 13 (12) needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 18 times, then repeat the 1st row again.
40th row: p2tog, purl to end.

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows 7 times more. (80 rows).

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [98 sts]

7th row: As 7th pattern row.
Work the next 3 rows as 8th. 9th and 10th pattern rows to complete one pattern.
Work 4 more complete patterns of 10 rows each.

Shape Neck:
51st row: Work 38 stitches as 1st pattern row, ending k4, wo, k1.

Cast off 22 stitches, (1 stitch on the right-hand needle), pattern 37 stitches.
Work on this 2nd set of 38 stitches for right shoulder.

52nd row: purl 38 stitches.
53rd row: cast off 3 stitches, work in pattern to end.
54th row: purl 35 stitches.
55th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
56th row: purl 33 stitches.
57th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
58th row: purl 31 stitches.
59th row: k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Keeping the pattern correct, work 10 rows on 30 stitches.

70th row: cast off 10 stitches; purl to end.
71st row: Work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: cast off 10 stitches, purl to end.
73rd row: As 71st row.
Cast off.

Left shoulder:
Join wool to neck edge of the remaining 38 stitches, and work to match the right shoulder.

Back

Work to match the front until 5 complete patterns have been worked from the beginning of the armhole shaping.

Divide for Back Opening:

51st row: work 49 stitches in pattern. Turn.
52nd row: increase into 1st stitch; purl to end.
Continue in pattern on these 50 stitches until 2 patterns are completed.

Shape Shoulder:
71st row: cast off 10 stitches, then work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Left Shoulder:
Cast on 3 stitches and join to centre back.
Work to match right shoulder, keeping the 3 extra stitches for underflap in garter stitch, and casting off 22 stitches for neck.

Sleeves:

With No. 13, (12) needles. cast on 87 stitches.
1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
Work in this rib for 8 more rows.

10th row: p3, * increase into next stitch, p8; repeat from to last 4 stitches, increase into next stitch, p3. [98 sts]

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern.
Work 3, (2) complete patterns.
If sleeve is wanted longer for larger size, then work a further complete pattern.

Shape Top:
Cast off 5 stitches twice, and then 4 stitches twice at the beginning of the next 4 rows, [80 sts]
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 44 stitches remain.
Purl one row (40 rows from the beginning of the shaping).
Now cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. (32 stitches remain).
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 20 stitches.

Neck Band

Back-stitch shoulder seams very neatly.
With No 13 (12) needles and right side of work facing, pick up and
knit 120 stitches evenly round neck.
Work in rib of k3, p3, for 9 rows.
Cast off in rib, using a No 11 (10) needle.

Making Up

Seam-stitch side and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves and back-stitch.
Catch down underflap.
Work a row of chain stitch down right side of back opening. turn and
make 4 buttonholes in chain stitch.

Make 4 buttons follows:
Make 8 chain and join in a circle. Work 6 dc into this circle. Work a second round of 6 dc then a round of 4 dc. Break off thread and pull through loop to secure. Stuff with a very small quantity of cotton wool and draw up tight.
Sew on buttons to match.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 (4) ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 13 or (2¼mm), and No 11 (3mm) needles for smaller size.

Pairs of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles for larger size.

A medium crochet hook.

Tension

7½ (7) sts x 10½ (10) rows to 1 inch on No 11 (10) needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34 (36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19) inches; side seam 12 (13) inches; sleeve seam 3½ (4) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

dc: double crochet (that is English double crochet or US single crochet).

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Three-ounce top II

3ozLowNeck.jpg

Very pretty lacy tops with the emphasis on wool economy.
The style of this pattern in conjunction with the price (3d), the emphasis on economy, and its pattern sequence number is giving me mixed messages as to the date; however general opinion seems to be that these patterns are from the late 1940s.

Instructions.

This jumper with the low neck is given only in one size.

Front

With No. 10 needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: As the 1st row.
4th row: k2tog, rib in pattern to end.

Change to pattern as follows:
[Editor's note: This pattern is the same as for thejumper with the high neck.]

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows twice more. (3 complete patterns of 10 rows each).

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows.
[Editor's note: This is to make the shaping for the waist.]

Change back to No 10 needles and work 70 rows.

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 12 stitches. With 1 stitch on the right-hand needle, work as 1st pattern row to the last 12 stitches.
Cast off 12 stitches. Fasten off and break wool.

Cast on 24 stitches. Join to work. Purl 98 stitches, and cast on 24 stitches at the end of the row.
3rd row: k24 stitches and work as 3rd row of pattern to last 24 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: Purl 146 stitches.
5th row: As 5th pattern row.
Work 5 rows to complete the pattern, then work 30 rows.
(4 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping).

Neck Shaping:
1st row: Work 62 stitches as 1st pattern row.
Cast off 22 stitches.
Work on this last set of 62 stitches for right side of neck as follows:
With 1 stitch already on the right-hand needle, work as from * of 1st pattern row to end.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows.
9th row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of this and the following alternate row.
12th row: Purl 38 stitches.
Work 8 rows to complete 6 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping, then work the first 5 rows to start the 7th pattern repeat.

Shape Shoulder:
(6th pattern row). Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 26 stitches in pattern as for 7th pattern row.
Next row: Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 14 stitches in pattern as for 9th pattern row.
Cast off 14 stitches.

Left Side of Neck:
Join wool to neck edge of remaining 62 stitches.

Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows, then cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the 2 following alternate rows.
Work one complete pattern of 10 rows On these 38 stitches, then work 6 rows of 7th pattern from the beginning of the of armhole shaping.

Shape Shoulder as for right side of neck, beginning with a 7th pattern row.

Neck

With No 10 needles and right side of work facing, pick up and knit 98 stitches all round neck.

Purl 1 row.
Next row: As 9th pattern row.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more.

Change to No 12 needles.
Next row: P2tog, purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog. [96 sts]
Next row: k3, p3; repeat to end.
Work 4 rows in this k3/p3 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib, using the wool doubled.
[Editor's note: This make the edge stronger.]

Back

Work to match the front exactly.

Making Up

Run a thread along each of the cast on 24 stitches and gather to fit the 12 cast off stitches. Sew together very neatly on the wrong side.
Seam-stitch side seams, matching pattern exactly, and seam-stitch the neck on each shoulder.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 10 or (3¼mm), and No 12 (2¾mm) needles for smaller size.

Tension

7 sts x 10 rows to 1 inch on No 10 needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34-36 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2019

Cricket (or Tennis) Pullover

CricketPullover.jpg

Anyone for cricket?

I made this as a slipover for a long, lean, and lanky chap; it is based on the pattern given but I adapted it to use some Guernsey yarn instead of DK (by knitting a bigger size and making it much longer to fit the chap - seemed like the body was never-ending!).
The instructions are for a full sweater pattern as well as the slipover.

Instructions.

The sweater is worked in a good range of sizes, intended to cover kids and men, but could also fit women, making suitable length adjustments in body and sleeve. Instructions for the larger sizes are shown in brackets.
Because of the layout for the different sizes, I recommend printing out the instructions and underlining the size you have chosen to work in every section that applies to that size (and maybe crossing through the other inapplicable sections).
There are options for versions with and without sleeves (and with and without team colours, of course).

Sweater Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 77, 83, 89, 95, 99, 105, 111, 117, 121, 127 stitches.

**
1st row (right side facing)
: k1 * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1 * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

If not including contrast colours, Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 10 times then the 1st row again, and continue below with 24th (increase) row.

If including contrast colours, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Join in second colour and repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Break off contrast, and continuing in main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 5 times.
Join in contrast once again and repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Break off contrast, and continuing in main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice, then the 1st row once.
**
Continue with main shade for the remainder of the Back.
24th (increase) row: p3 (4, 7, 8, 6, 5, 6, 9, 7, 8); * increase once in the next stitch purlwise, p1; repeat from * to the last 2 (3, 6, 7, 5, 4, 5, 8, 6, 7) stitches: p2 (3, 6, 7, 5, 4, 5, 8, 6, 7).
[113 (121, 127, 135, 143, 153, 161, 167, 175, 183) sts].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:-

For three smallest sizes only (28, 30 and 32 inch chest):

***
1st row: k0 (4, 7); p2, * slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last 31 (35, 38) stitches, C9B, p2, k7, p2, C9F, p2, k0 (4, 7).
2nd row: p0 (4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9; * k2, p7, k2, p9; repeat from * to last 2 (6, 9) stitches, k2, p0 (4, 7).
3rd row: k0 (4, 7); p2, * k9, p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last 31 (35, 38) stitches, k9, p2, k7, p2, k9, p2, k0 (4, 7).
4th row: p0 (4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9, repeat from * to last 2 (6, 9) stitches, k2, p0 (4, 7).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For the medium-small sizes only (34, and 36 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); repeat from * to last - (-, -, 13, 17) stitches, C9B, p2, k7, p2, p2, k- (-, -, 2, 6).
2nd row: p- (-, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, 2, 6).
3rd row: k- (-, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, k9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, 2, 6).
4th row: p- (-, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; *p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, 2, 6).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For the three medium-large sizes only (38, 40 and 42 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7), p2; * slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 31, 35, 38) stitches, C9F, p2, k7, p2, C9B, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
2nd row: p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 2, 6, 9) stitches, k2, p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
3rd row: k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); p2, * k9, p2, k7, p2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 31, 35, 38) stitches, k9, p2, k7, p2, k9, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
4th row: p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7); k2, p9, k2, p7, k2, p9, * k2, p7, k2, p9, repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, 2, 6, 9) stitches, k2, p- (-, -, -, -, 0, 4, 7).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

For two largest sizes only (44 and 46 inch chest):

***
1st row: k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7, p2, slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9F); p2, k7, p2; slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle (this will now termed C9B); repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
2nd row: p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6), k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
3rd row: k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); * p2, k7,p2, k9; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 17) stitches, p2, k7, p2, k- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
4th row: p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6); k2, p7, k2; * p9, k2, p7, k2; repeat from * to last - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6) stitches, p- (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6).
Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times.
***

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Under each separate section for the size you are working, the instructions embedded between *** to *** forms the pattern.

Keeping continuity of pattern (throughout) continue until work measures 11½ (13, 14, 13½, 15½, 15½, 15½, 15½, 15, 16) inches from the beginning, ending on a wrong side row.

Shape armholes:
Cast off 7 stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
[99 (107, 113, 121, 129, 139, 147, 153, 161, 169) sts].

****
Work 9 (11, 13, 15, 10, 13, 17, 18, 22, 24) rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row.
[81 (85, 87, 91, 109, 113, 113, 117, 117, 121) sts].

Continue without shaping until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8, , 10½, 10½, 10½, 10½, 11, 11) inches, ending on the wrong side.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Cast off remaining 33 (37, 37, 37, 37, 43, 43, 43, 43, 47) stitches in pattern.

Sweater Front

Work exactly as given for back until **** is reached in the armhole shaping section.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 45 (49, 52, 56, 60, 65, 69, 72, 76, 80) stitches, k2tog; turn.

Working on these 47 (51, 54, 58, 62, 67, 71, 74, 78, 82) stitches only, proceed as follows:

Next row: pattern to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
[46 (50, 53, 57, 61, 66, 70, 73, 77, 81) sts]

Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 5, 11, 15, 16, 13, 21) rows, decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row, and at the same time decreasing at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row.
[35 (36, 36, 37, 53, 49, 47, 49, 57, 49) sts]

For one medium and the two largest sizes only (36, 44 and 46 inch chest):

Work - (-, -, -, 3, -, -, -, 7, 1) rows, decreasing once at the armhole edge in every row, at the same time decreasing once at the neck edge on the - (-, -, -, 0, -, -, -, 4th, 0) row.
[- (-, -, -, 50, -, -, -, 49, 48) sts]

For the smallest and other large sizes only (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42 inch chest):

Work 12 (14, 12, 6, -, 6, 2, 1, -, -) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on every following 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 2nd, -, 2nd, 2nd, 1st, -, -) row.
[29 (29, 30, 34, -, 46, 46, 48, -, -) sts]

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Work 20 (20, 20, 28, 53, 44, 44, 44, 45, 43) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on the 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 3rd), and every following 4th row.
[24 (24, 25, 27, 36, 35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts]

Continue without shaping until armhole measures same as Back to "Shape Shoulders" section, ending on wrong side row.

Shape shoulders:
Next row: cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern and then pattern to end of row.
Next row: pattern to end of row.
Cast off remaining 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern.

Work the other half of the front to match the first as follows:

With right side facing, slip the first stitch of the the remaining stitches on to a safety pin (this is the centre stitch).
Rejoin the yarn to the remaining 49 (53, 56, 60, 64, 69, 73, 76, 80, 84) stitches and proceed as follows:-

Next row: k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
[47 (51, 54, 58, 62, 67, 71, 74, 78, 82) sts]
Next row: p2tog, pattern to end
[46 (50, 53, 57, 61, 66, 70, 73, 77, 81) sts]

Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 5, 11, 15, 16, 13, 21) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row.
[35 (36, 36, 37, 53, 49, 47, 49, 57, 49) sts]

For one medium and the two largest sizes only (36, 44 and 46 inch chest):

Work - (-, -, -, 3, -, -, -, 7, 1) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge on the - (-, -, -, 0, -, -, -, 4th, 0) row, at the same time decreasing once at the armhole edge on every row.
[- (-, -, -, 50, -, -, -, 49, 48) sts]

For the smallest and other large sizes only (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42 inch chest):

Work 12 (14, 12, 6, -, 6, 2, 1, -, -) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on every following 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 2nd, -, 2nd, 2nd, 1st, -, -) row.
[29 (29, 30, 34, -, 46, 46, 48, -, -) sts]

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Work 20 (20, 20, 28, 53, 44, 44, 44, 45, 43) rows, decreasing once at the neck edge only on the 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 4th, 4th, 4th, 1st, 3rd), and every following 4th row.
[24 (24, 25, 27, 36, 35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts]

Continue without shaping until armhole measures same as Back to "Shape Shoulders" section ending on right side.

Shape shoulders:
Next row: cast off 12 (12, 12, 13, 18, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) stitches in pattern and then pattern to end of row.
Next row: pattern to end of row.
Cast off remaining 12 (12, 13, 14, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19) stitches in pattern.

Sweater Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 needles and main shade, cast on 43 (43, 45, 45, 55, 55, 59, 59, 59, 61) stitches.

Work from ** to ** as given for Back.

24th (increase) row: p6 (6, 8, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13); * increase once in the next stitch purlwise; repeat from * to the last 7 (7, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14) stitches: p7 (7, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14).
[73 (73, 73, 73, 87, 87, 95, 95, 95, 95) sts].

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and using main shade throughout proceed in pattern as give for 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) size of Back and at the same time, increasing once at each end of the 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) and every following 1st (1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd, 3rd, 9th, 9th, 9th, 9th) row until there are 87 (81, 89, 81, 117, 117, 107, 107, 125, 125) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern.

For all sizes EXCEPT the smallest only (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 inch chest):

Increase once at each end of the following - (6th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row, until there are 87 (95, 95, 101, 129, 129, 129, 129, 137, 137) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern.

FOR ALL 10 sizes

Continue without shaping until sleeve measures 14½ (15½, 16½, 17, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20) inches, ending on the wrong side.

Shape Sleeve Top
Work 18 (26, 26, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28, 28) rows, casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of every row.
[69 (69, 69, 77, 103, 103, 101, 101, 109, 109) sts].

Work 20 (20, 20, 24, 36, 36, 32, 32, 36, 36) rows, casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row.
[29 (29, 29, 29, 31, 31, 37, 37, 37, 37) sts].

Cast off loosely in pattern.

Sweater Neckband

Join right shoulder seams.
With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade, and commencing at the top of the left front neck, pick up and knit 45 (49, 49, 51, 63, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65) stitches evenly down the left side of the the front neck, knit the centre stitch you left on a safety pin, pick up and knit 45 (49, 49, 51, 63, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65) stitches evenly up the right side of the the front neck, and 32 (36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 42, 42, 46) stitches evenly across the cast-off stitches of the back neck.
[123 (135, 135, 139, 163, 169, 169, 169, 173, 177) sts].

If you are including a contrast then proceed as follows, otherwise follow the same instructions using only the main shade.

1st row: Using main shade * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch pl.
2nd row: Join in and use contrast, k1, [p1, k1] 21 (23, 23, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 31, 31) times; k2togtbl, k1,k2tog; k1, [p1, k1] 37 (41, 41, 42, 48, 51, 51, 51, 52, 54) times.
3rd row: Using contrast, [p1, k1] 37 (41, 41, 42, 48, 51, 51, 51, 52, 54) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 21 (23, 23, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 31, 31) times. Break off contrast.
4th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 20 (22, 22, 23, 29, 29, 29, 29, 30, 30) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 36 (40, 40, 41, 47, 50, 50, 50, 51, 53) times.
5th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 36 (40, 40, 41, 47, 50, 50, 50, 51, 53) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 20 (22, 22, 23, 29, 29, 29, 29, 30, 30) times.
6th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 19 (21, 21, 22, 28, 28, 28, 28, 29, 29) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 35 (39, 39, 40, 46, 49, 49, 49, 50, 52) times.
7th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 35 (39, 39, 40, 46, 49, 49, 49, 50, 52) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 19 (21, 21, 22, 28, 28, 28, 28, 29, 29) times.
8th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 18 (20, 20, 21, 27, 27, 27, 27, 28, 28) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 34 (38, 38, 39, 45, 48, 48, 48, 49, 51) times.
9th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 34 (38, 38, 39, 45, 48, 48, 48, 49, 51) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 18 (20, 20, 21, 27, 27, 27, 27, 28, 28) times.
10th row: Join in and use contrast, k1, [p1, k1] 17 (19, 19, 20, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27, 27) times; k2togtbl, k1, k2tog; k1, [p1, k1] 33 (37, 37, 38, 44, 47, 47, 47, 48, 50) times.
11th row
: Using contrast, [p1, k1] 33 (37, 37, 38, 44, 47, 47, 47, 48, 50) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 17 (19, 19, 20, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27, 27) times. Break off contrast.
12th row: Using main shade, k1, [p1, k1] 16 (18, 18, 19, 25, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26) times, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, k1] 32 (36, 36, 37, 43, 46, 46, 46, 47, 49) times.
13th row: Using main shade, [p1, k1] 32 (36, 36, 37, 43, 46, 46, 46, 47, 49) times; p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; [k1, p1] 16 (18, 18, 19, 25, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26) times.
[99 (111, 111, 115, 139, 145, 145, 145, 149, 153) sts].

Cast off in rib.

To Make Up the Sweater

Review the yarn ball band for any special washing or pressing instructions.
Join left shoulder and neckband seams.
Set in sleeves, placing centre of head of sleeve to shoulder
seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Slipover Back, Front, and Neckband

Work exactly as given for sweater.

Slipover Armbands (alike)

Join left shoulder and neckband seams.

With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade pick up and knit 101 (107, 107, 113, 135, 135, 135, 135, 141, 141) stitches evenly around the armhole edge.

If you are including a contrast then proceed as follows, otherwise follow the same instructions using only the main shade.

1st row: Join in and use contrast, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: Using contrast, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

Using main shade, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using contrast, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once. Break off contrast.
Using main shade, repeat 1st row once.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up the Slipover

Review the yarn ball band for any special washing or pressing instructions.
Join side and armband seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn in white or ivory.
Oddments of colours for contrast if required.
Sweater:
4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 9) x 100g balls
Slipover:
2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) x 100g balls

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

29sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over pattern.
Editor's note: When substituting yarns, making a swatch is a good idea; I think you are fairly safe to assume that this is designed for a standard DK - 22sts x 30rows in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest:
28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) inches (actual measurement is larger giving ease from 3 inches on smallest size up to 4 inches on largest size).
Length: 19 (21, 22, 22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26, 27) inches.
Sleeve seam:
14½ (15½, 16½, 17, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
tbl: through back loop
C9B: slip the next 4 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k5 stitches, then k4 stitches from cable needle
C9F: slip the next 5 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k4 stitches, then k5 stitches from cable needle
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a good quality double knitting woollen blend.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

April 2019

Colourful Bolero

ColourfulBolero.jpg

Printed towards the end of WW2, in an era of extreme shortages **, this is knitwear designed with a view to using left overs or even maybe "pulled back" wool.
Despite that I think it looks really attractive - and is a very interesting design being knitted sideways.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size.
The pattern stitches are given below.
Try out a piece of the pattern for practice by casting on 24 stitches.

Pattern:

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl.
2nd row
: * k2, p4, k1, p4; repeat from * ending row k2.
3rd row
: p2, * k4, p1, k4, p2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: k1, * twist A, p3, k1, p3, twist B; repeat from *, ending k1.
5th row: p3, * k3, p1, k3, p4; repeat from * all along, ending p3.
6th row: * k2, twist A, p2, k1, p2, twist B; repeat from * ending k2.
7th row: p4, * k2, p1, k2, ending p6; repeat from *, ending row p4.
8th row: k3, * twist A, p1, k1, p1, twist B, k. 4; repeat from *, ending k3.
9th row: p5, * k1, p1, k1, p8; repeat from *, ending p5.
10th row: k4, * twist A, k1, twist B, k6, repeat from *, ending k4.
Change to white yarn.
11th row: purl.
12th row: knit.

Repeat these 12 rows throughout.

Back

The bolero is knitted sideways.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 90 stitches and work 5 rows of the pattern.

Now increase at the beginning of the next and end of every following row at this side until there are 108 stitches, and 23 rows are done.
On to the end of this row cast on 37 stitches to complete the armhole shaping.

Work straight until 2 more complete patterns are done, and then work 1 row of the next pattern, which brings you back to the top of the shoulder.
Cast off 16 stitches for the back neck insert (to be knitted later).
Finish this pattern and work 5 more patterns, and then 9 rows of 6th.

At the beginning of the 10th row cast on 16 stitches, and then finish the shoulder to correspond with first side, casting off 37 for the armhole and decreasing on every row thereafter until 90 stitches remain.

Finish off with 5 rows straight.

There are 15 patterns in total across the back, omitting the last 2-row white stripe.

Left front

Work as for back, but cast off 26 instead of 16 stitches on the shoulder.
Then work straight, finishing this pattern and 3 more, but omit the last white stripe.
Cast off.

Right front

Work to correspond with left front.

[Editor's note: They are assuming rather a lot here and expect you will work this out for yourself. You could continue to work the in the same sideways direction: as you have just cast off at the centre front, so you could cast on for the right front at the centre front which would mean casting on 119 stitches - then casting on 26 at the shoulder, and completing the shaping as you did for the back.
Or,
You could work exactly as you did for the left front but reversing all the shapings - so you would be doing the armhole increasing at the end of the rows and you would cast on the 37 stitches at the same edge and casting off the 26 stitches at this same edge.]

Neck Ribbing

Join back and front shoulder seams.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and front of work facing, pick up and knit 80 stitches across the back of the neck. Work in k1/p1 rib, decreasing at each end of every alternate row 5 times.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and continue in rib, decreasing as before until 48 stitches remain. Cast off fairly tightly in rib.

For each front section pick up and knit 44 stitches in the same way, and decrease 5 times on alternate rows at the side edge before changing to No 12 needles. Then decrease as before until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

For each shoulder piece pick up and knit 42 stitches across each shoulder and then shape as for back, casting off the remaining 10 stitches.

[Editor's note: It may or may not be obvious here but you are knitting on the sides of a rectangle here and decreasing towards the middle; when you sew these together you will have mitred corners - you can just see this in the photograph.]

Front Borders

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a length of k1/p1 rib long enough to go up the left front.
Work a piece the same for the right front, but make 3 buttonholes: one in the 3rd row from the top, and the remaining 2 at one inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5; on the next row cast on 3 over those cast off in the previous row.

Continue strip for the length required, then cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Worked sideways in pattern.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 13.

1st row: Pattern to end.
2nd row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
3rd row: Cast on 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times more.

10th row: As 2nd.
11th row: Cast on 17, pattern to end.
12th row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
13th row: Pattern to last stitch, work twice into this.

Repeat 12th and 13th rows 15 times more, then the 12th row again.
There are now 84 stitches on the needle and 44 rows have been done.
Work the next 42 rows straight in pattern.

87th row: Pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
88th row: k2tog, pattern to end.

Repeat 87th and 88th rows 15 times more, then 87th row again.
119 rows have now been done, and there are 51 stitches on the needle.

120th row: k2tog, pattern to end.
121st row: Cast off 17, pattern to end.
122nd row: k2tog , pattern to end.
123rd row: Cast off 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 122nd and 123rd rows 3 times more, leaving 13 stitches on the needle.
Work 1 row in pattern; cast off.

This finishes the 11th coloured stripe.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew together side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew on buttons.
Join ribbing at corners neatly before stitching front strips to edge.

Materials

3 ply yarn: 1 oz in main shade (M) plus 1oz each in 5 different shades of the same wool, or odd balls of different colours to make up this amount.

[Editor's note: Looking at the photo and instructions, presumably one of these colours needs to be white.]

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 33-35 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 18½ inches;
sleeve seam: 5½ inches.

Abbreviations

Twist A: Knit into back of 2nd stitch on left-hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch, drop both stitches off needle together.

Twist B: Knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch on left needle, slip both off together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

** The 'Make Do and Mend' campaign - which is currently quite a well known slogan from WW2 - was launched to encourage people to make their existing clothing last longer. Clothes care was a key part of the Make Do and Mend message. Shortages of basic materials and consequential clothing rationing necessitated imaginative use of materials; this included recycling and renovating old clothes, and the innovative use of home-made accessories, which could alter or smarten up an outfit. You see a lot of these ideas in magazines of that era appearing as little knitted collars and cuffs or just inexpensive embellishment ideas. This type of pattern continues from its humble beginnings well into the 1950s - and not surprising since although the war ended in 1945, clothes rationing did not end until 1949.

Rationing worked by allocating each item or category of clothing a 'points' value which varied according to how much material and labour went into its manufacture. Each person was allocated a fixed number of coupons to "spend" when they purchased clothing. In 1941, at the inception, adults receive 66 but this allocation shrank as the war progressed: to 48 in 1942, 36 in 1943 and 24 by 1945. As for knitwear specifically - a jumper, for example, used up 5 coupons and socks 1-3. Making your own knitwear did not help much since knitting wool was also rationed (almost pro rata) with two ounces of knitting yarn requiring one coupon; however, with essentials such as boots and overcoats requiring 7 coupons you can see why people were reluctant to spend any coupons at all on knitwear when they could reuse old "pulled back" yarn.

One interesting result of this evolved from the fact that "mending cards" of yarn were not rationed at all - presumably to encourage the make-do-and-mend mentality. They were traditionally dull buff or grey colours being intended to darn mens socks. [I have inherited many of these cards which sit at the bottom of my work basket - commercial socks are much tougher these days]. However during this period the commercial yarn companies started to produce "mending cards" in all kinds of wild colours which fitted perfectly with multicoloured designs such as this bolero, or the ubiquitous Fair Isle sweater patterns of the period. The influence of rationing some items and not others could be seen much wider than just in knitting yarn in that people would find ways of using many different or less usual materials for clothing if they happened to be "off the ration".

The popularity of multicoloured sweaters, and specifically Fair Isle, was very much to do with being able to use smaller amounts of yarn from different sources and make a garment that looked fresh and new, rather than the collection of oddments which it really was. Sewing patterns were also offered with this in mind - I have a lovely blouse pattern from the period with terrific square shoulders and nipped in waist that is designed to be made in 2 fabrics out of "2 of your husbands old shirts" with the pattern pieces shown laid out accordingly on the shirts, (noting that men's shirts of the period were positively voluminous).

March 2019

Spring Thickie

SpringThickie1.jpg

Another highly wearable jumper with a flattering neckline from the 1950's.
The sleeves look to be a pleasing (to me) three-quarter length but with a set in style that is almost a dolman, yet with a flattering line fitted to the neck shaping.
Although cited as a "thickie" in 1950s terms it's made in a standard double knitting weight yarn - so "Spring Thickie" or "Square Neck Casual" - I leave the name up to you.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

The sweater is worked in an all-over pattern involving loops and slipped stitches. It is advisable to practise this stitch to get used to it before starting the main work. Take particular care not to drop any stitches as it is difficult to pick them up again without spoiling the pattern.
Where numbers of stitches are given these apply to the basic number only, ie each double stitch is counted as one stitch.
[Editor's note: This is easier to understand once you have practised the stitch.]

Pattern stitch

With No 9 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 2 inches to practise the pattern.
1st row: k1 * insert needle into next stitch and knit, winding wool twice round needle; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping index finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to last loop and stitch, knit these together, winding wool round needle twice as before. [12 sts]
3rd row: Drop 1st loop of 1st stitch off needle, keeping finger of left hand on 2nd loop to prevent it slipping off, * now knit this 2nd loop together with 1st loop of next stitch, winding wool twice round needle as before and leaving the 2nd loop still on left needle; repeat from * to
last loop on left needle, knit into back of this loop, winding wool twice round needle.

The 3rd row forms the pattern and this row is now repeated throughout.

[Editor's note: Just to encourage you - this pattern is easier to do in practice than to explain.]

Back

Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109) stitches and work straight in pattern starting with 1st and 2nd rows [once 2nd row is done there are 100 (108) stitches]; continue until 31 (31) ridges have been done from start.

Continue in pattern and shape for armholes:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 20 (24) [to cast off — knit the
1st loop instead of dropping it, * knit together the next 2 loops forming the double stitch but putting wool round needle once only, then slip the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch in the usual way; repeat from * until 20 (24) stitches have been cast off], then pattern 60 (60), cast off the last 20 (24) stitches in the same way.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and continue straight in pattern until 51 (51) ridges have been done from start.
Break off main shade yarn, and join in white yarn.

**Continue thus:
1st row (right side facing): k1, in the usual way, * k2 loops together winding wool round needle once - thus making an ordinary stitch; repeat from * to end. [61 (61) sts]
2nd row: In white yarn, k2tog, [p1, k1] 28 times, p1, k2tog.
3rd row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 29 times, p1.
4th row: In white yarn, p2tog, [k1, p1] 27 times, k1, p2tog.
5th row: In white yarn, [p1, k1] 28 times, p1.
Change to No 11 needles and continue in rib with 2 rows main shade, 4 rows white, 2 rows main shade, and 4 rows white, and decreasing at each end of every alternate row.
Cast off in rib. **

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 26 (26) stitches and work about 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Break off yarn and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.

Front

Using yarn in main shade and No 9 needles, cast on 101 (109) stitches and work in pattern exactly as given for back, starting with 1st and 2nd
rows, until 11 (11) ridges have been done from start.
Here introduce pockets.

Next row (right side facing): pattern 9 (11), leave main shade yarn hanging, and join in white, [knit the next 2 loops together, winding wool once round needle] 26 times, slip these 26 white stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the time being; pick up the main shade yarn again and work across the 26 (26) stitches of one pocket lining thus [k1 winding wool twice round needle] 26 times, pattern across the next 30 (34) stitches of main work, again leave main shade yarn hanging, join in 2nd ball of white and work across the next 26 (26) stitches as before and leave on a spare needle or stitch holder; pick up main shade and work across 26 (26) stitches of 2nd pocket lining as before, pattern 9 (11).
Continue in pattern until 31 (31) ridges have been done from start, then with right side facing, shape armholes exactly as given for back, then work straight in pattern on the centre 60 (60) stitches until 41 (41) ridges have been done from start.
Break off main shade and and join in white.

With right side facing, work striped rib border for neck exactly
as given for back from ** to **.

Left sleeve

**
Using white yarn and No 11 needles, cast on 60 (60) Sts, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.
Join in main shade and rib 2 rows, then rib 4 rows white , increasing 1 stitch at each end of the last row; rib 2 rows main shade.

Change to No 9 needles and rib 3 rows in white.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib 3, [rib 7, increase in next st.] 7 times, rib 3. [69 (69) sts]
Break off white yarn.

Join in main shade and work first 3 rows of pattern as given for back.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop of 1st stitch instead of dropping it, keeping 2nd loop on left needle as before, pattern to end as given for 3rd pattern row.
Next row: Knit and purl in 1st loop of 1st stitch instead of dropping it,
keeping 2nd loop on left needle as before, pattern to last stitch as given for 3rd pattern row, insert left needle into loop of last stitch of previous row, then knit these 2 stitches together, winding wool twice round needle [this gives an increase without leaving a hole].

Continue repeating the last row until there are 123 (123) stitches
Work straight until 36 (38) ridges have been done from start.
**

With right side facing shape top.
* Next row: Cast off 12 (12) as described before, pattern to last 12 (12) stitches , cast off the last 12 (12) stitches in the same way.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing rejoin yarn, and pattern back.
Repeat from * once more.
Next row: Cast off 25 (25) stitches, pattern to last 5 (5) stitches, cast
off the last 5 (5) stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin wool and pattern back. [45 (45) stitches remain.].
Break off main shade.
Join in white and work striped ribbing, shaping as before.

Right sleeve

Work as for left sleeve from ** to ** [123 (123) sts].
Repeat from to once.
Next row: Cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to last 25 (25) stitches, cast off the last 25 (25) stitches.
Break off yarn.
With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and pattern back.
Break off main shade.
Join in white and finish as before.

To Make Up

Do not press.
Using tailored seams, join side seams.
Pin sleeves very carefully into armholes, making sure you have the right sleeve in the right armhole, match the neck ribbing neatly at corners and pin straight edge of sleeve [side edge] to the 20 cast-off stitches at the back and front. Sew in position, then join the rest of the sleeve seam.

With No 11 needles and white wool, work a further 3 rows rib across each pocket top, then 2 rows main shade, 3 rows white; cast off in rib in white Catch down sides of pocket tops and pocket linings.

Press seams lightly.

Materials

19 (20) ozs Double Knitting, in main shade (Glamour Red - or Black);
2 oz in White.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

This pattern stitch is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 34-35 (36-37) inches; length from top of shoulders, 23 (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 14½ (15) ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SpringThickie2.jpg

January 2019

Jelly Bag Hat

JellyBagHat.jpg

This knitting pattern is not at all challenging (except maybe the 4 needles).
No - it's really all about the delightful picture - such a charming fresh-faced model with those decorous come-hither eyes - all combined with lovely bright colours designed to be cheering for the home makers during WW2.

This kind of quirky Wee Willy Winkie hat did become popular for a while, a few years ago but I haven't seen many around lately. Big pom poms are still the thing though....!

Materials

4 ozs mixed shades fingering, 2-ply.
Any odd balls of bright colours will do.

[Editor's note: the "2ply" is probably literally two plies but in yarn weight perhaps more like a 3 ply going by the stated tension,]

A set of four No 11 (3mm ) needles.

Instructions.

Cast on 120 stitches, 40 on each of 3 needles.
Work in rounds of stocking-stitch, changing colour, every 1½ inches.

When 6 inches are done start to decrease very gradually.
To do this knit 2 together at the end of each needle. (3 stitches decreased).
On the next decrease row knit 2 together into the backs of stitches This prevents the cap twisting always in one direction. Make these decreases about every 4 inches until there are 102 stitches left.

When cap is desired length k2tog all round, then draw wool through remaining stitches and fasten off.
For a shorter cap make decreases every 2 inches.

Finish off the end with a multicoloured wool pom-pom, but don't make
it too thick.

You may need to run thread elastic round cast-on edge to keep cap firm on the head.

Tension

8 stitches to an inch.

Size matters

Original cap is 30 inches long but you could make one 18 inches long that is perhaps more suitable for every day wear.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

December 2018

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningSoldiers1.jpg

If your 5-year-old is getting a box of soldiers then make him this amusing matching jersey
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the soldier motifs.

Suitable for all 5 year olds who aren't expecting an iphone, (and who like to play out of season cricket).

Instructions:

The jersey is worked in one size - stated as a 5 year old but remembering that children now tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid blue) cast on 84 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 85 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and changing from the main mid-blue wool to the pale blue as the background colour for the motifs, work the soldier pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

When 20 rows have been completed, change back to the mid-blue main shade and work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 8 inches.

Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of he next 2 rows. Then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 65 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 13¼ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until the first 2 rows of the armhole shaping have been done. [75 sts]

Now divide for the neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 35, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then keeping the armhole edge straight, and at the same time, decreasing at the neck edge on every following 3rd row until 24 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, armhole edge.

Join the wool to the remaining stitches, at the neck edge; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first half, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid-blue) cast on 48 stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 49 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work the 20 rows from the chart as for the back.

When these are done, change back to the main mid-blue wool and continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 63 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve measures 10½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and mid-blue main shade, pick up and knit 48 stitches down left front, 1 stitch from centre, 48 stitches up right front, and 18 stitches across back of neck.

Work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib; decreasing 1 stitch either side of centre front stitch on alternate rows.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.

Materials

3 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade (mid blue) and 1 oz in paler blue. Small balls in red and navy for the soldier motifs.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

30 sts and 38 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

One size - width all round chest 25 ins.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½ ins.
Sleeve seam: 10½ inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningSoldiers2.jpg

November 2018

Party tops

EveningTops1.jpg

Another "summer" top, which I always thought would be eminently suited to a winter cocktails evening, (and clearly they did too, as it is additionally shown in a black-tie setting). It's made in a fingering 2ply or laceweight yarn, with a stitch that forms "bubbles", which each have a sequin or bead sewn at the centre.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size only.

Backand Front alike

With No 12 (2½mm) needles cast on 108 stitches and work 4 inches k2/p2 rib.

Change to pattern thus:
[Editor's note: note that this pattern seems to include every possible way to describe putting the wool over the needle to make a lace pattern hole. The differences are just in the technique you have to use to get the wool wrapped round the needle.]

1st row (right side facing): * wrn, p2tog, won, k1, wfd, k1, wfd, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd - 6th rows: as 2nd row.
7th row: * wrn, p2tog, won, k1, (wfd, k1) 3 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * wrn, p2tog, p8, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
9th row: * wrn, p2tog, k8, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
10th row: as 8th row.
11th row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, (wfd, k1) 4 times, k2, wfd, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
12th row: * wrn, p2tog, p12, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
13th row: * wrn, p2tog, k12, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
14th row: as 12th row.
15th row: as 13th row.
16th row: as 12th row.
17th row: as 13th row.
18th row: as 12th row.
19th row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, (k3tog) 4 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
20th row: * wrn, (p2tog) 3 times, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
21st row: * wrn, p2tog, k2, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.
22nd row: * wrn, p2tog, p2, wrn, p2tog; repeat from * to end.

Rows 1-22 inclusive form the pattern.

Repeat these 22 pattern rows 3 times more.
Now continue repeating only the second pattern row while you divide for the neck thus:

Next row (right side facing): pattern 26. Turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge fairly loosely on the next 5 rows.

With right side facing, shape shoulder: by casting off 3 stitches loosely at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, at the same time, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row, 6 times.

Return to the remaining stitches; cast off the centre 56 stitches loosely, then work on last 26 stitches to correspond with the first shoulder.

Making Up

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams, then join sides leaving 7 inches open from shoulder seams for armholes.

Neck edging: With right side facing, work 2 rows of double crochet (American single crochet) all round the neck, then work picot edge thus:

* 4 chain, 1 dc in first of these 4 chain, 2dc in next 2 dc; repeat from * all round; fasten off.

Sew 1 sequin or bead in the centre of each stocking-stitch bubble, as shown in photograph, using a matching sewing cotton (you must sew on each sequin separately), then sew sequins about inch apart all round dc of neck.

Press seams.

Altering the size

It would be feasible to increase the size by knitting in a thicker yarn - but you do need to make a swatch and do some arithmetic.
Even changing to a 4 ply with 3¼mm needles could change your chest size from a modest 34 to over 40 inches.

All those "wool overs"

won: "wool over needle" - bring the wool over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.
(Used when you have just completed a purl stitch, but do not take the wool to the back of the work, before knitting the next stitch - the wool passes over the needle as you knit the next stitch).
wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle forming the pattern hole.
(Used when you have just completed a knit stitch, and you are purling the next stitch; you wind the wool once around the needle instead of simply bringing the wool to the back of the work).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
(Used when you have just completed a knit stitch, and you are knitting the next stitch).

Now you know everything.....

Materials

4 ozs Fingering 2 ply.

A pair of No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2½mm) needles.

No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook

Packets of sequins or beads.

Tension

34 sts x 42 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-35 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

won: "wool over needle".
wrn: "wool round needle".
wfd: "wool forward".

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

EveningTops2.jpg

October 2018

Prima Donna

OperaCoat.jpg

"....prima donna opera coat - so boldly dramatic...."
I think this could be appropriate as an evening coat or for a wedding - but again, even though it looks very summery, it's 4ply crochet which, even in a cotton weight, could prove to be quite warm.

Instructions

The coat is worked in a number of repeated "patterns".

To make 1 pattern:
3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr

Motif Panel Pattern
(Worked over 6½ patterns)

1st row (wrong side facing): 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 4 patterns.
2nd row
: 4 patterns, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
3rd row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, (1 tr in next tr, 2 ch) twice, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns.
4th row
: 3 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, (1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp) twice, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
5th row
: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns.
6th row
: 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 11 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
7th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 11 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
8th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
9th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
10th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in each of next 5 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, (1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
11th row: (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 12 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 5 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
12th row: 1 pattern, 1 tr in each of next 9 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr.
13th row: 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr, in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 12 tr, 1 pattern.
14th row: 1 pattern, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 16 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
15th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 4 times, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 15 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 5 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern.
16th row: 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 5 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 19 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
17th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, (1 tr in next tr, 2 ch) twice, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch:, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 9 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
18th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
19th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
20th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
21st row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch, sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
22nd row: 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
23rd row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 5 tr, 1 tr in each of next 1 0 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
24th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 5 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
25th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
26th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
27th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
28th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
29th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
30th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.

These 30 rows form the panel pattern.

Back and Fronts
(worked in one piece to armhole)

Foundation row (wrong side facing): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each remaining ch. [385/385/409/409 sts]
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each remaining stitch. Repeat the last row once more.

Change to No 9 (3½ mm) hook and work as follows:
Foundation row (right side facing): 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, * 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in next stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in last stitch.
[31½/31½/33½/33½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end].

Place motif panel patterns as follows:
1st row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, work 1/1/2/2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr * , work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, 1 pattern, repeat from * to * once, work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.
2nd row: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * work 2nd row of motif panel pattern, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 1/1/2/2 patterns, work 2nd row of motif panel pattern, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * work 1 pattern, repeat from * to * once, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch.

Continue working thus until 30 rows of motif panel pattern have been worked.
Next row
: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 31/31/33/33 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.

1st, 2nd and 4th sizes:
Next row
: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 31 /31 /33 patterns, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch

4th size:
Next row
: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 33 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.

All sizes: Keeping continuity of pattern, shape as follows:
lst row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7½//8/8 patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 15½/15½/16½/16½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
2nd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7½//8/8 patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 15½/15½/16½/16½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
3rd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr * , pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
4th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over next 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
5th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
6th-9th rows
: in pattern.
10th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
11th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7// patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
12th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½//7/7 patterns, * 3 ch 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr *, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
13th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½//7/7 patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
14th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½//7/7 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
15th-18th rows
: in pattern.

Continue decreasing thus until 72/63/72/63 shaping rows have been worked:
15½/17½/17½/19½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end. 2nd and 4th sizes:
Next row
: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 4/patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over / patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 4/ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next stitch, pattern over / patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next stitch, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over /4 patterns, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in in next tr *, pattern over / patterns, repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
[15½/17½ patterns, plus ¾ pattern at each end]

Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over /4 patterns, (5 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over / patterns, (5 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over /4 patterns, (3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over / patterns, (3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.

These last 2 rows form the pattern.

All sizes: Continue straight in pattern until work measures 39/40/40/41 inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for right front as follows:
Next row
: pattern over 1/4 pattern, then pattern over 2¾/3/3/3 patterns, turn.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes:
Next row
: 8 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
Next row: in pattern, ending 3 ch, 1 dc in last ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in 3rd ch.

All sizes: Continue in pattern on these patterns for right front until work measures 5/6/6/6 inches from where work was divided, ending with right side facing.
Fasten off.

Shape neck as follows:
With right side facing leave ¼ pattern unworked, then leave next 1¼/// patterns unworked, rejoin yarn in next dc/tr/tr/tr and pattern to end. [1½ patterns]. Work a few rows straight until neck measures 2 inches.
Fasten off.

With right side facing, leave 2/2//3 patterns unworked from where work was turned, rejoin yarn in next 5 ch sp/tr/tr/tr, pattern over next 6/// patterns, turn. Continue on these patterns for back until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.
Fasten off.

With right side facing, leave 2/2//3 patterns unworked from where work was turned, rejoin yarn in next 5 ch sp/tr/tr/tr, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with right front reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With 2½ mm hook, make 98/98/110/110 ch.

Foundation row (wrong side facing): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each remaining ch.
[97/97/109/109 sts]

Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each remaining stitch. Repeat last row once more.

Change to No 3½ mm hook and pattern as follows:

Foundation row (right side facing): 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, * 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in next stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3 ch, 1 dc in last stitch. [7½/// patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end].

1st row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 7/7/8/8 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.
2nd row: 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 7/7/8/8 patterns, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch.
These 2 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until sleeve measures 18½ in.
Place a marker at each end of last row.

Continue in pattern until extra rows from marker fit along ½ the patterns left for armhole.
Fasten off.

Hood

Using 3½ mm hook, make 146 ch.
Foundation row (right side facing): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 5 ch, miss 5 ch, 1 tr in next ch, * 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 5 ch, miss 5 ch, 1 tr in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in last ch.
[11½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end.]

1st row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 11 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.
2nd row: 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 11 patterns, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

Shape back of hood as follows:
1st row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
2nd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
3rd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
4th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5 patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
5th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 5 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr , 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
6th and 7th rows: in pattern.
Continue decreasing thus, every 7 rows until 35 shaping rows have been worked.
[6½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end.]
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side.
Join shoulder seams, then join sleeve seams to markers.
Sew straight top edge of sleeves into armholes, then sew edges left free to base of armholes.

Front and Neck Border: With right side facing and 2½ mm hook, start at lower right front edge and work 1 row dc up right front, all round neck and down left front, increasing and decreasing at corners as required.
Turn and work a 2nd row, working 24 button loops on the right front - the first to come at the top of the front neck edge and the remainder at 1 inch intervals.
Fasten off.
To make a button loop: 2 ch, miss 2 dc.

Fold hood in half at top and join last row together.
With right side facing and using 2½ mm hook, work 2 rows dc round front edge of hood.
Stitch lower edge of hood on to neck as shown, gathering extra fullness in at back.

Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

10/11/12/13 x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe.

No 9 (3½mm) and No 12 (2½mm) hooks.

24 buttons.

Tension

1½ patterns and 8 rows to 3 inches.

Size matters

To fit chest:
32/34/36/38 inches,
length from top of shoulders: garment drops to a length of 51/52/53/54 inches when worn;
sleeve seam: 18½ inches all sizes.

Note: An allowance of 5 inches is given to allow for dropping when worn (4 inches at under arm, and 1 inch at armhole).

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
dtr: double treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool:

Original in Patons Limelight Crepe - knits as 4 ply, which was 100% courtelle (synthetic - so a good yardage); stated on Ravelry to be 216 yards to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

OperaCoat2.jpg

September 2018

Plain Jane

PlainJane.jpg

Although I always hesitate to say this, I do think the design of this particular classic plain sweater in a fine (4 ply fingering) yarn, is pretty timeless. It is knitted in one colour, but could be a good basic pattern to be used for colour work: stripes or fairisle; do remember though that stranded colour work does tend to pull in the stitiches somewhat, so do check your tension before you start adapting.

The sweater is titled a "short length classic sweater". Of course, you can knit it to the length you want - but - it is designed to fit to the waist and so there is some shaping in the form of increases up to the armhole. If you want it longer or do not see yourself with a neat waist, you could cast on the full number of stitches at the start, and just knit straight up to the armhole omitting the increasing.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

Back

‡‡
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 92 [98, 106, 112, 120] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2¾ inches (7 cm).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 114 [120, 128, 134, 142] stitches.

Work straight until Back measures 11 inches, (28 cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 100 [102, 102, 108, 104] stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 86 [90, 92, 98, 100] stitches remain.
‡‡

Work straight until Back measures 18½ [19, 19¼, 19¾, 20] inches, (47 [48, 49, 50, 51] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 12, 13, 13] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then cast off 12 [13, 13, 14, 13] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Leave the remaining 40 [40, 42, 44, 48] stitches on a length of yarn, or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Work straight until Front measures 16 [16½, 17, 17½, 17½] inches, (41 [42, 43, 44, 44] cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: k30 [32, 32, 34, 35], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: p2tog, purl to end.

Continue on these stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows, and then on every alternate row until 23 [25, 25, 27, 26] stitches remain.

Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 12, 13, 13] stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 12 [13, 13, 14, 13] stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 26 [26, 28, 30, 30] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and complete to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 50 [50, 54, 56, 56] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches (5 cm).

Next row: rib 7, (m1, rib 12 [12, 13, 14, 14]) 3 times, m1, rib 7 [7, 8, 7, 7].
(54 [54, 58, 60, 60] sts).

Change to No 10 needles and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 9th [7th, 8th, 7th, 6th] row until there are 82 [88, 90, 94, 100] stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 17½ inches, (44 cm), ending with a purl row.

Shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 28 [32, 30, 30, 34] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 [20, 22, 22, 22] stitches remain.
Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing and No 12 needles, knit up 18 [18, 18, 18, 19] stitches down left side of neck, knit 26 [26, 28, 30, 30] stitches from front, knit up 18 [18, 18, 18, 19] stitches up right side of neck, knit 40 [40, 42, 44, 48] stitches from back.
(102 [102, 106, 110, 116] sts).
Work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5 cm).
Cast off loosely in rib.

Join left shoulder seam and Neckband.
Fold Neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem neatly in position.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert Sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

11 [12, 13, 14,
15] (25 gram) balls 4 ply yarn.

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

28 stitches x 36 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38, 40] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97, 102] cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 18½ [19,
19½, 19¾, 20] inches, (47 [48, 49, 50, 51] cm);
sleeve seam: 17½ inches, (44 cm), all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2018

The Master Touch

BoldColourSweater.jpg

A summer setting with summer colours for this man's sweater in double knitting. Original was knitted in pure wool but there are many cotton blend yarn options in exciting colours that you could use instead.
Perfect for that Indian summer.

Instructions.

Sweater is worked in intarsia technique using smaller balls of yarn wound onto bobbins. Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 114/118/122 stitches, and work 15 rows k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib.
Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Editor's note: If you don't want to make this type of hem then just make the ribbed welt as long as you would like (15 rows or shorter - or longer) then do the increase row and start the pattern as below.

Next row: purl, increasing 6/8/10 stitches evenly across.
[120 / 126 / 132 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and winding 5 lengths of contrast B yarn
off on to bobbins for each stripe, work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K10 / 11 / 12 M; k4 B; * k20 / 21 / 22 M, k4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, k10 / 11 / 12 M.
2nd row: P10 / 11 / 12 M; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 M, p4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 M.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 4 times more, then 1st row again.
Break M and B yarns.

Join in yarn C, and working with 5 lengths of M yarn on bobbins for stripes, continue thus:

12th row: P10 / 11 / 12 C; p4 M; * p20 / 21 / 22 C, p4 M; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 C.
13th row: K10 / 11 / 12 C; k4 M; * k20 / 21 / 22 C, k4 M; repeat from * 3 times more, k10 / 11 / 12 C.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Break C and M yarns.

Join in yarn M, and using 5 bobbins of B yarn for stripes, continue thus:

20th row: as 2nd row.
21st row: as 1st. row.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Break M yarn.

Join in yarn W:

24th row: P10 / 11 / 12 W; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 W, p4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 W.
25th row: K10 / 11 / 12 W; k4 B; * k20 / 21 / 22 W, k4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, k10 / 11 / 12 W.

Break W yarn.

Rejoin M, and repeat 2nd then 1st rows in that order 6 times more.

Break M yarn.

Join in C.

38th row: P10 / 11 / 12 C; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 C, p4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 C.

Break C yarn.

These 38 rows form the pattern. Join in M, and work straight continuing the pattern sequence to the end of the 32nd / 32nd / 36th row of the 3rd pattern.

Keeping pattern correct, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 100 / 104 / 108 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 25 / 25½ / 26 inches, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulders by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, then 8 / 10 / 12 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave remaining 36 stitches on a stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Continue in pattern and work straight until front measures 22 / 22½ / 23 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: K37 / 39 / 41, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Working on first 37 / 39 / 41 stitches, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 32 / 34 / 36 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back ending at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and every following alternate row, until 8 / 10 / 12 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight. Cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre 26 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 37 / 39 / 41 stitches, work to end.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 60 stitches, and work 15 rows k1/p1 rib, as for back.

Next row: Purl, increasing 2 / 4 / 6 stitches evenly across the row.
[62 / 64 / 66 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and continue in pattern, joining in lengths of yarn B as required.

1st row: K5 M; k4 B; * k20 / 21 / 22 M, k4 B; repeat from * once more, k5 M.
2nd row: P5 M; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 M, p4 B; repeat from * once more, p5 M.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 4 times more, then 1st row again, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 8th row.
Break M yarn.

Join in C.

Next row: P5 C; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 C, p4 B; repeat from * once more, p5 C.
Break C wool.

Join in M, and continue in pattern as for back, starting with 1st pattern row, and increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row from last increase until there are 90 / 92 / 94 stitches.

Work straight until 7 / 7 / 11 rows have been worked after 3rd W stripe.

Keeping pattern correct, shape top by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 52 / 48 / 52 remain. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 / 24 / 24 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neck Border:
With No 10 needles and main shade M, start at left shoulder on front and with right side facing, pick up and knit 27 stitches down left side of neck, k26 from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 27 stitches up right side of neck, k36 from stitch-holder. [116 sts]

Work 15 rows in twisted rib as given for welt on back.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder and neck ribbing. Fold neck ribbing in half to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position all round.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, matching patterns on all seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
15/16/16 x 1oz balls in blue main shade (M);
4/4/4 oz in cornflower blue (B);
4/5/5 oz in charcoal (C);
1/1/2 oz in white (W).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Stitch holders and plastic bobbins

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
37-38/39-40/41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26½ inches;
sleeve seam:
18/18½/19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
M: main blue colour
B: cornflower
C: charcoal
W: white

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

June 2018

Flower Power

SunHat3.jpg

Instructions

Note: Yarn is used double throughout, and the hats are made using a variation of double crochet:
Instead of working under the two loops at the top of each stitch as for
ordinary double crochet, insert the hook into the back loop only of the
stitch, ie, between the front and back loops at the top of the double crochet of the previous round, then into the top of the upright loop at the back and to the left of this double crochet, then complete the stitch as for an ordinary double crochet.

Basic Hat

Make 3 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch (ss) in 1st chain.
1st round: 1 ch, to count as first dc, work 5dc into circle. Join with ss to first ch. [6 sts]
2nd round: 1 ch, to count as first dc, 1 dc into same place, work 2 dc into each dc to end, remembering to work over the two separate threads. [12 sts]

Do not join after this round, but carry on working in continuous rounds, making a spiral. This will be easy if you mark the begninning of the next
round with a coloured thread so that you do not lose your place.
3rd round: Continue in pattern as given above, working (2 dc into next st, one dc into next st) to end. [18 sts]
4th round: Continue in pattern, working (2 dc into next st, one dc into each of the next 2 sts) to end. [24 sts]

Continue in pattern, increasing 6 stitches in every round in this way until there are 66 stitches.

Continue working in rounds of double crochet without shaping for a further 3½ inches (9cm).

For the basic hat - fasten off at this point. You can then decorate as required.

Daisies

Make one small and one large daisy to sew on the basic hat. You should use a smaller crochet hook (2½ -3mm) and a single strand of the 4ply yarn.

Small daisy:
Make 7ch.
Join with a ss to first ch to form circle.
1st round: 3ch, work 17tr into circle. Join with a ss to third of first 3ch.
[18tr]
2nd round: * 3ch, miss next 2tr of previous round, 1 ss into next tr, repeat from * 4 times more, 3ch. Join with a ss to first of first 3ch.
[6 loops].
3rd round: Into each 3ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 3tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.
[Editor's note: This makes shell shapes for the petals..]

Fasten off.

Large daisy:

Make 11ch.
Join with a ss to first ch to form circle.
1st round: 3ch to count as first tr, work 31tr into circle. Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch. [32tr]
2nd round: * 4ch, miss 3tr of previous round, 1ss into next tr, repeat from * 6 times more, 4ch, miss 3tr. Join with a ss to first of first 4ch.
[8 loops]
3rd round: Into each 4ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 3tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.
[8 petals]
4th round: * 4ch, 1ss into back loop of st on second round between next 2 petals, repeat from * 7 times more, joining last ss into first of first 4ch.
[Editor's note: This creates a double row of petals.]

5th round: Into each 4ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 5tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.

[Editor's note: If you want to create a medium sized flower you can stop here and fasten off - otherwise continue with 2 more rounds.]

6th round: * 5ch, 1ss into back of st on 4th round between next 2 petals, repeat from * 7 times more, joining last ss into first of first 5ch.
7th round: Into each 5ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 5dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.
Fasten off.

White hat

This hat was made using raffia, using thread single throughout with a
No 5 (5½mm) crochet hook. The crown is worked as for the basic hat in double crochet. Instead of fastening off after working the 3½ inches (9cm), work a further round of eyelet holes to slot ribbon through:
work one treble into alternate double crochet with one chain between each.
Complete the hat with 2 double crochet worked into each chain space, and thread ribbon through the holes if desired.

Granny squares hat

Using a No 6 (5mm) crochet hook and double yarn, work crown as given for basic hat in double crochet pattern until there are 72 stitches. Fasten off.
Make 6 granny squares with 3 rounds in each, using the same crochet hook and having the yarn double throughout as follows:

Make 6 chain. Insert hook from front to back into first chain, yarn round hook and draw loop through chain and loop on hook in one movement. One slip stitch (ss) ss has been worked to join ch into a circle or ring.

1st round: 3ch to count as first tr, 2tr into circle working under ch, 2ch, work (3tr into circle, 2ch) 3 times. Join with ss to third of first 3ch.
2nd round: 2ch, work (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into first 2ch space to form the corner, * 1ch, work (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into next 2ch space, repeat from * twice more. Join with ss to second of first 2ch.

3rd round: 3ch, 2tr into first ch space to the left of ss join of previous round, 1ch, * work (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into 2ch space, 1ch, 3tr into 1ch space, 1ch, repeat from * twice more, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into last 2ch space, 1ch. Join with ss to third of first 3ch.
Break off yarn, and fasten off, (ie draw end through loop on hook and draw up tightly).

You can work the square in a single colour or in multiple different colours, fastening off one colour and starting another at the end of each round.

Join the 6 squares into a circle. With main colour work 72 dc along
one edge, then work another round in double crochet.
Sew this edge in place around the crown.
Complete the lower edge with 2 more rounds of double crochet.

To Make Up

Sew in ends and embellish as desired referring to the photos:

- sew daisies to hat, or,
- thread ribbon through eyelet holes, or,
- sew granny squares into a circular band and attach to hat crown, or,
- make a plait long enough to fit round lower edge of hat and sew in place. (Use oddments of 3 colours, taking about 20 strands of each).

Materials

75g in 4ply fingering yarn, used double.
[Plus oddments for any trimmings].

A No 2 (7mm ) crochet hook

Tension

10 stitches and 7 rows measures 2 inches (5cm) over brim pattern.

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
htr: half treble
tr: treble
dtr: double treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

SunHat5.jpg

May 2018

Day Blouse

DayBlouse.jpg

A pretty knitted "blouse" - spoken with a soft "s" as in "mouse" I suspect (maybe you pronounce it like that anyway). Presumably you could go wild and try wearing it other than in daylight hours.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

**
Using the pair of No 13 (2¼mm) needles cast on 117 (127) stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side facing): * p2, k3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
2nd row: * k2, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 3 inches ending with 2nd row.

Now increase as follows:

Next row: * p1, pick up horizontal thread before next stitch and purl into back of it, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, pick up and purl horizontal thread as before, p1. [141 (153) sts]

Continue in k3, p3 rib until work measures 8 () inches from start. With right side facing, change to stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd (5th) and every following 6th row until there are 153 (163) stitches.
Continue straight until work measures 11½ (12) inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 9 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row until 121 (131) stitches remain.
Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread.
**

Now continue straight in stocking stitch until armholes measure 6 () inches from markers. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (11) stitches at the beginning of the following 8 rows; cast off remaining 41 (43) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. [121 (131) sts]

Next row: Purl.

With right side facing, divide for neck as follows:
Next row: knit 60 (65), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare
needle or stitch holder.
Continue on first 60 (65) stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following knit row until 40 (44) stitches remain.
Work straight until armhole measures 6 () inches from marker.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 (11) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 61 (66) stitches, cast off centre stitch and knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Making Up

Press only the stocking stitch parts on the wrong side under a damp
cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

With the pair of No 13 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 148 (156) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 7 rows in k2/p2 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side seams.

Collar:
Using the set of four No 13 needles, or circular needle to facilitate working, continue for collar as follows:
Start by casting on 30 (30) stitches for the bow, then on to the same needle and with right side facing, pick up and knit 70 (75) stitches up right side of neck; on to the 2nd needle pick up and knit 41 (43) stitches across the back of the neck; on to the 3rd needle pick up and knit 70 (75) stitches down left side of neck, then finally cast on 30 (30) stitches for the other end of the bow. [241 (253) sts]


Divide the stitches equally on the 3 needles and continue as follows:

Next row: Purl.

* Continue in stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the following 6 knit rows, then decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the following 6 knit rows*. Repeat from * to * once more.
Next row: Purl.
Cast off.

Fold the collar in half with right side inside, then join points and side edge of the cast-on stitches for bow. Turn right side out and press, then fold rest of collar in half all round neck to wrong side and slip-hem in position. Press seams and collar.

Slip ends of collar through scarf ring to form a bow as shown in photograph.

Altering the size

It would be feasible to increase the size by knitting in a thicker yarn - but you do need to make a swatch and do some arithmetic. Even changing to a 4 ply with 3¼mm needles could change your chest size from a modest 34 to over 40 inches.

Materials

6 (6) ozs 3 ply.

A pair of No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

A set of 4 No 13 (2¼mm) needles (or a circular) for the collar.

One scarf ring.

Tension

36 sts to 4 ins in garter stitch on No 13 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18¾ (19¾) inches

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2018

Sweetheart Sweaters

SweetheartSweaters.jpg

Hearts and flowers in the bluebell season.

Instructions for Crew Neck Version.

Instructions for 5 sizes - larger sizes are shown in brackets.

Charts

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

The chart is included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 61 [65, 71, 77, 81] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 row for 5cm ending with a a first row (wrong side facing
for next row).

Next row: Rib 8 [4, 8, 10, 5] m1; (rib 15 [8, 11, 19, 10], m1) 3 [7, 5, 3, 7] times, rib to end. (65 [73, 77, 81, 89] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work 34 rows in pattern from the chart, working the first and last 8 [12, 14, 0, 4] stitches of each row as indicated for each size, and working the 16 stitch repeat pattern in between.

After completing the first 34 rows, work a further 6 [18, 26, 38, 40] rows in the pattern thus ending with a 6th [18th, 26th, 4th, 6th] pattern row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

3rd, 4th and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row.
( - [-, 65, 69, 77] sts).
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back until 37 [43, 45, 47, 49] stitches remain in raglan shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, divide for neck as follows:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 11 [13, 14, 14, 15], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 12 [14, 15, 15, 16] stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every alternate row until 6 [8, 8, 8, 7] stitches remain.

Work 1 [1, 0, 0, 1] rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge only on he next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Next row: k2tog, and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 11 [13, 13, 15, 15] stitches on a length of yarn or stitch holder, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Work to match first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 31 [31, 39, 39, 39] stitches and work in rib as on back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm, ending with a 1st row and wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: Rib 8 [8, 10, 10, 10] m1; rib 15 [15, 19, 19, 19], m1; rib to end. (33 [33, 41, 41, 41] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, and starting with a 19th row, work in pattern as for 1st [1st, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd] size of the Back at the same time shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [7th, 3rd, 7th, 3rd] and every following 6th [7th, 12th, 14th, 12th] row until there are 49 [49, 53, 53, 57] stitches, taking the increase stitches into the pattern.

Materials

50g balls DK in 3 colours: main shade (MS) plus 2 contrasts:
3 [4, 4, 5, 5] M;
1 [1, 1, 2, 2] C1*;
1 [1, 1, 1, 1], C2.
* may be only one ball of C1 required for all sizes if working the collared version.

Pair each No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 22 [24, 26, 28, 30] inches, (56 [61, 66, 71, 76]cm) actual measurement allows 1-2 inches of ease;
length from top of shoulders: 12 [14, 15½, 17½, 19] inches, (30 [36, 40, 45, 48]cm);
sleeve seam: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.


A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Moorland Tweed/Shetland double knitting. Moorland was 100% wool with a suggested yardage of 137 yds (125m) - although this was not printed on the ball bands at that time.

A similar substitute might be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Continue in pattern until sleeve seam measures: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm), ending with the same pattern row as on the Back at the start of the raglan shaping, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 4th row until [33, 37, 35, 37] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 7 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a safety pin.

Making Up and instructions for crew neck

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglans, leaving left back raglan open.

Make Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and MS, k7 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches down left side of neck, k11 [13, 13, 15, 15] from front, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches up right side of neck, k7 from right sleeve, then 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] from the Back, increasing 1 stitch at the centre.
(73 [77, 87, 91, 93] sts).

Starting with a 2nd row, work in rib as for the Back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm.
Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off loosely in rib.

Join remaining raglan and Crew Neck seam.
Fold Crew Neck in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Making Up and instructions for collar

Work as for Crew Neck Version but casting off stitches loosely at back of neck, front of neck, and top of sleeves.

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglan, side, and sleeve seams.

Make collar:
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 73 [77, 81, 85, 89] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more then the 1st row again.
Next row: Rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 4 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 6 stitches, turn.

Continue thus until the 2 rows "sl1, rib to last 16 stitches, turn" have been worked.
Next row: sl1, rib to end

Continue in rib across all stitches until Collar measures 3cm at the side edge.

Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off evenly in rib.
Sew cast-off edge of collar in position all round neck as in photograph.

Press seams.

February 2018

Yellow Blazer

Blazer.jpg

I was told last autumn that red was definitely THE colour of the season, and then - after my wardrobe became impossibly bold - I was told that it was all about neutrals! Similarly last Spring I was told that yellow was the colour - just a splash or dash - and now apparently it is definitely THE colour for Spring.
Whatever you believe, this is a staple 50s jacket which you can knit in a single colour - entirely in yellow - or entirely without yellow. Whatever colour scheme you go for, make sure of those wonderful coordinating giant buttons before you start.

So: "Use a clear sharp sulphur yellow -- vivid contrast with white."

Instructions.

Instructions give for 2 sizes- larger size given in brackets thus ().
Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No 8 needles white yarn (W), cast on 104 (110) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch [that is: knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows throughout], ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): purl in the usual way.
These 2 rows mark the hemline.

With right side facing, continue straight in twisted stocking stitch until back measures 15 (15) inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of following 6 (8) knit rows. [82 (84) sts]

Work straight until back measures 23½ (23½) inches from hemline.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Cast off remaining 30 (32) stitches.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With white (W) yarn, cast on 24 (26) stitches and work about 3½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Cast on 35, p17, slip 1 purlways, purl to end. [79 (83) sts]

Continue in twisted stocking stitch as follows:
Next row: Knit to last 18 stitches, slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: purl. Rep. these 2 rows until front measures 5 inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Introduce pocket as follows:
Next row: k15 (16), cast off 24 (26), k22 (23), slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: Purl, purling across 24 (26) stitches of one pocket lining in place of those stitches cast off in the previous row.

Now continue straight in twisted stocking-stitch as before until front measures 15 (15) inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.

Continue in pattern shaping armhole and increasing 6 stitches in the border after the slipstitch as follows:

Next row: Cast off 5, knit to last 18 stitches, Slip 1 purlways, [increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, k3] 5 times, increase 1 as before, k2.
Break W yarn

Next row (wrong side facing): join in yarn Y, (k1, wool forward, slip 1 purlways, wool over needle] 11 times, k1 in Y; rejoin W and purl to end in W.
Next row: K2tog, knit to the slip stitch in W, slip 1 purlways, then in Y, [p1, wool back, k2tog through back loops, wool forward] 11 times, p1.
Next row: in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1 in Y, purl to end in W.
Note: Twist the wools on the wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Repeat the last 2 rows 5 (7) times more.
This completes armhole shaping.

Now continue straight until front measures 21½ inches from the hemline, keeping 23 stitches of border in twisted rib pattern in Y for revers as before.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 23 stitches in Y.
Break Y, then cast off 17 (19) stitches in W, purl to end in W.

Continue in twisted stocking stitch in W decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 (8) rows. [26 sts].
Work straight until front measures same as back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the following 4 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.

Right Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Cast on 35, k17, slip 1 purlways, k17, p44 (48) working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Purl in the usual way.

Work to correspond with left front reversing shapings and with the addition of 3 double buttonholes. First to come 3½ inches up from lower edge and remaining 2 at 5-inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole:
Next row (right side facing): k5, cast off 7, k5, slip 1 purlways, k5, cast off 7, knit to end.
Next row: Purl, casting on 7 over those cast off.

Your pocket row will read: (right side facing), k17, slip 1 purlways, k22 (23), cast off 24 (26), k15 (16).

The increase row before start of armhole will read: (right side facing), k2, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, [k3, increase 1 as before] 5 times, slip 1 purlways, knit to end.

On the next row start armhole shaping and introduce fancy rib in Y. as follows:
Cast off 5, purl to last 23 stitches in W, join in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1.

Sleeves:

With Y yarn, cast on 53 stitches.

1st row (wrong side facing): * k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways,won; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, wool back, k2togtbl, wfd; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
These 2 rows form the fancy rib pattern.

Continue in fancy rib for 3 inches ending with 2nd pattern row.

Continuing in pattern start to increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 93 stitches
Note: As the pattern is a multiple of 2 stitches keep increased stitches in stocking stitch until you have an extra 2 at each end, then take
them into the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 18 (19) inches from start of fancy rib pattern, ending with 2nd pattern row.

With wrong side facing, continue in pattern shaping top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 59 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 19 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing and yarn Y, pick up and k. 93 stitches all round neck, beginning and ending at the slipped-stitch of front borders.
Work 2½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, starting and ending with a purl row.
Shape by working short rows as follows:
Knit to the last 6 stitches, turn, purl to the last 6 stitches, turn; knit to last 10 stitches, turn; purl to last 10 stitches, turn; knit to last 14 stitches, turn; purl to last 14 stitches, turn; knit to last 18 stitches, turn; purl to last 18 stitches, turn.
Knit back to end picking up horizontal loop and knitting it together with
next stitch where work was turned to avoid a hole.

Next row: Purl, across all stitches, picking up horizontal loops in the same way.
Increase 28 stitches across next row as follows:
k5, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and
knitting into back of it, k4, increase 1 as before, [k3, increase 1 as before] 25 times, k4, increase 1 as before, k5.
[121 (121) sts]
Now with wrong side facing, change to fancy rib pattern as for sleeves and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with 2nd pattern row.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press stocking stitch parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Now make up double collar and double front borders as follows:
Fold collar and front borders in half with right side inside; join short sides of collar, then join cast-off edge of front facing to cast-off edge of collar on wrong side to form revers.
Turn right side out and press.
Now slip-hem inner edge of collar neatly all round neck on wrong side.

Slip-hem front facing in position on wrong side [note that the slipped stitch in the knitting marks the edge of the fold up the front edges].

Oversew loosely around the double buttonholes.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Turn under 1½ inches of stocking-stitch up to hemline all round lower
edge and slip-hem in position. Turn under 1½ inches all round
each sleeve and slip-hem on wrong side.

Catch down pocket linings, then with yarn W and (right side facing), pick up and knit 24 (26) stitches along cast-off edge of each pocket opening. Work 2 inches twisted stocking-stitch; cast off loosely.

Fold pocket tops in half to wrong side and slip-hem, then catch down sides of pocket tops to main work.

Press all seams and hems.
With crochet hook and yarn Y make 3 circles in dc to cover buttons. Sew circles firmly over buttons, then sew in position on left front.

Materials

Double Knitting:
11 (12) ozs in sulphur yellow (Y);
15 (16) ozs in white (W).

A pair each No 8 (4mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Three large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches over the twisted stocking stitch

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-37) inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 24 ins;
sleeve seam: 15½ (16½)inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

won: "wool over needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": bring the wool to the front of the work.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")
twisted stocking stitch is a variation whereby you knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows, and execute the purl rows as normal; this gives a texture to the knitting.

Crochet abbreviations:

dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Blazer2.jpg

It is interesting to note that this jacket is referenced as being a revamp of a previous model (which I have yet to find). This picture above is obviously how it was made up for the photo shoot - ie in a single colour. You can peer at the detail in the colour photo and pretty easily see that the yellow colour has been painted in after the event. I am keen on trying out changes to the photos - lightly tinting black and white pictures etc - but these changes would have been made by skillful application using a real air brush technique rather than Photoshop.

January 2018

Shetland folklore tunic

ShetlandFolkTunic.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn tunic in a double knitting weight yarn.

Although this pattern is from the seventies, it evokes a much earlier era to me. I remember my friend Sara having a cardigan just like this, (in colour and pom-poms), knitted by her Mother in the 1960s. I have had cardigan envy ever since. However - I am sure a tunic would suit me even better!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the yoke pattern from the chart, strand yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 241 [249, 257, 265] stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): (k1, p1) 23 times; k1, p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch with a coloured thread); p2togtbl, k1; (p1, k1) 68 [72, 76, 80] times; p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch as before); p2togtbl, k1; (p1. k1) 23 times.
2nd row: * p1, k1; rep from * to within 2 stitches of first marked st; sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to within 2 stitches of 2nd marked stitch, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to end.
Keeping continuity of rib, continue to decrease in this way working in stripes of a further 2 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D.

Next row: In D, cast off 38 stitches evenly in rib; in M, p9 [11, 12, 13] (including stitch on needle after cast off), p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 32 [34, 36, 38] times, p10 [10, 11, 12]; then in D, cast off remaining stitches in rib. [84 [90, 96, 102] sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and with M, work in stocking stitch starting with a knit row until back measures 6 inches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: Cast on 8, knit these stitches, knit to end, cast on 8. [100, 106, 112, 118].
Continue on these stitches and work 11 rows.

Shape sides as follows:
Next row: k9, k2togtbl, knit to last 11 stitches, k2tog, k9.
Work 11 rows.
Repeat the decrease row once more. [100, 102, 108, 114 sts].
Work straight until Back measures 17 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
‡‡

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more. [90, 94, 98, 102 sts].

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 86 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 0 [2, 4, 6] times more. [92 sts].

Shape neck by working short rows as follows:
1st row: k2tog, k28, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
2nd row: Cast off 8, purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.
4th row: Cast off 7, purl to end.
5th row: k2tog, knit to end.
6th row: Cast off 5, purl to end. [7 sts].

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following alternate row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows. [2 sts].
Next row: p2tog and fasten off.
Leave centre 32 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, and with
right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and M, cast on 42 [44, 46, 48] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib and stripes of 4 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D. [12 rows]

Continue in M until rib measures 3 inches, increasing across last row as follows : (rib 2, m1) 7 times; (rib 1, m1) 16 [18, 20, 22] times; (rib 2, m1) 5 times; rib 2. [70, 74, 78, 82 sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work straight until sleeve measures 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches measured at centre, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.

Repeat the last 4 rows 1 [2, 3, 4] times more. [64 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row. [60 sts]
Work 1 row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke

With right side facing, slip first 43 stitches of back on a length of yarn.

With circular or set of No 8 (4 mm) needles and M, knit the remaining 43 stitches from back, marking first of these stitches as the start of the rounds; knit 60 from sleeve, knit up 31 down left side of neck, knit 32 from front, knit up 31 up right side of neck, knit 60 from second sleeve, then finally knit 43 from length of yarn (or stitch holder). [300 sts]

Divide these stitches evenly on 3 of the set of needles.

Joining in D and L as required work the 50 rounds from the chart, repeating the 20 pattern stitches 15 times in each round and decreasing where indicated.
Work all rounds knit, reading chart from right to left.

On completion of the above rounds the number of stitches remaining will be:
17th round: 270 stitches.
21st round: 240 stitches.
31st round: 210 stitches.
35th round: 180 stitches.
45th round: 150 stitches.
49th round: 120 stitches.

Next round: in M, decrease 8 [8, 4, 4] stitches evenly. [112, 112, 116, 116 sts]

Make holes as follows:
Next round: In M, yfwd, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Work 1 round.
Break M.

Change to set of No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and in L, work 3 rounds.
Work holes as before for picot edging.
Work 2 rounds.
Cast off loosely.

Making Up

Omitting cuffs, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Use 30 inch lengths of yarn and a large sewing needle for make up, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.
Join armhole and sleeve seams.
Using a flat seam, sew side borders neatly in position catching border edges to cast-on stitches.
Join side seams to within 5½ inches of lower edge.
Fold picot hem at row of holes to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

In M, make 2 pompons.

Make Cord: Using 6 strands of M, make a twisted cord 45 in long. Thread through row of holes at neck. Sew a pompon to each end of cord.

Materials

6 [7, 7, 8] 50g balls Shetland DK in main shade (M) "Ocean Deep", plus 1 ball each in 2 contrasts:
"Heatherette" (D) and
"Snow White" (L)

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Sets of 4 each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or circulars.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97] cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 26 [26½,
27, 27½] inches, (66 [67, 69, 70] cm);
sleeve seam: 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches, (47 [47, 48, 48] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker than that but the tension given here suggests slightly thinner!

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2017

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningPlane1.jpg

A jolly little waistcoat for the lucky 3 year old who is having a new toy engine or or aeroplane.
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the various motifs.

How far away those days seem - or actually "are"! Even in my era - as attested by James May in Top Toys - boys (not girls of course!) were fixated by rockets and action men - though Airfix was as popular as ever.
Nonetheless - a "jolly little waistcoat" - for retro 3 years olds and their retro parents.

Instructions:

The waistcoat is worked in one piece and in one size - stated as a 3 year old but remembering that children tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s. As usual, you could probably increase the size successfully by using a heavier wool and larger needles.

Back and Fronts in one

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 145 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib - rows on the right side having k1 and each end.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work in pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 24 pattern stitches 6 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Carry MS wool across on each row but join in lengths of appropriate shades (or use bobbins) for each motif: work the required number of stitches for the motif colour, drop wool, then pick it up again on the return row.

Work the 52 rows once, then, continuing to work motifs from the chart, and with right side facing, divide for armholes thus:

Next row: pattern 36, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern on these 33 stitches for the right front, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 6 rows. [27 sts]

Work straight in pattern to the end of the 34th row of the chart.

With right side facing, continue in MS only, shaping neck by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at the neck edge on the next 5 rows.
Next row: Knit.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (armhole edge).

With right side facing, join wool to the remaining stitches.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 70, turn and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 67.

Continue on these 67 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 rows.

Work straight to end of the 34th row of the chart.

Change to MS only and work 8 rows straight, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

With right side facing, join wool to last 36 stitches, armhole edge, and cast off 3, pattern to end, then work to correspond with right front.

Ribbed Front Borders

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 11 stitches and working in k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end, make a strip to go up the right front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along and leave the stitches on a safety pin at the top.

Make a similar strip for left front with the addition of 7 buttonholes, the first to come in the 3rd and 4th rows from the bottom edge, and the 7th about 1 inch from the top (allowing for 8th to be worked in the neckband later), and the remaining 5 at equal intervals.
Mark the position of the buttons with pins on right front to ensure even spacing then work holes to match.

To make a buttonhole:
Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end and then back, casting on 3 over those stitches cast off.

Neck Border

Join shoulder seams.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), rib the 11 stitches from the right front border, pick up and knit 43 stitches all round the neck, then rib the remaining 11 stitches from the left front border. [65 sts]

Work ½ inch in k1/p1 rib making the 8th buttonhole after ¼ inch has been done. Cast off in rib.

Armhole Borders

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), pick up and knit 89 stitches round each armhole.
Work ½ inch k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

2 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade and 1 oz each in emerald and scarlet.
Oddments or small balls in brown and royal blue (see photo at the end).

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

32 sts to 4 inches on No 10 (3¼mm) needles over Fair Isle pattern.

Size matters

One size - width all round under arm 22 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 12 inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningPlane2.jpg

November 2017

Irish Knot Wrap

IrishKnotWrap.jpg

Splendidly cosy knee-length wrap in Irish Knot stitch with garter stitch borders forming a soft shawl collar.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Make knot (MK) in pattern as follows:
(k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) loosely all in the next stitch; then with point of left-hand needle, pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches on the right-hand needle over the first stitch one at a time.

Back

With No 9 needles cast on 98 [104 : 110: 116 : 122] stitches.
1st row: p2, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: k2, (pbl, k2) to end.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 18 stitches and
leave on a spare needle.
With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 98 [103 : 107 : 111 : 119] stitches.

Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: k8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1]
4th row: p6 [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1 , increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
7th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3]stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
8th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
9th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1;* k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
10th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1 , kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
11th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * (k1, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5[2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Back measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles, and keeping continuity of pattern, work Pocket Linings as follows:
Next row: Cast on 18 stitches, knit across these 18 stitches, then in pattern to end, then kit across 18 stitches that you left on the
spare needle earlier (131 [139 : 143 : 147 : 155] sts).
Next row: p18, pattern to last 18 stitches, p18.
Next row: k18, pattern to last 18 stitches, k18.

Repeat the last 2 rows 13 times more, then the first of these 2 rows again, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: Cast off 18 stitches, pattern to last 18 stitches, cast off remaining stitches. Break yarn.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and continue in pattern until Back measures 21½ inches (55 cm).

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles and continue in pattern until Back measures 26½ inches (67 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes, by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until 71 [73 : 77 : 81 : 83] stitches remain.
Work straight until Back measures 35 [35½ : 36 : 36¼ : 36¾] inches, (89 [90 : 91: 92: 93] cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches at the beginning of the
following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 31 [33 : 35 : 37 : 39] stitches.

Left front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, p6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
3rd row: k10 [5 : 5 : 5 : 10]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1].
4th row: p6, [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
5th row: k9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
7th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
8th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] , kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
9th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
10th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
11th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row
: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Cast off 5 stitches, pattern to end.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts)
Work 29 rows in pattern.

Next row: Cast on 5 stitches, pattern across these stitches, pattern to end. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern until 32 rows less than on Back have been worked before start of armhole shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape front slope as follows:

1st size: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row, and then at the same edge on every following 3rd row until 44 stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sizes: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next, and every following alternate row until - [54, 54, 56, 60] stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at the front edge
on every following 3rd row until - [48, 49, 51, 55] stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

All sizes: Work 1 row, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape armhole by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row: Work 2tog, pattern to end.

Decrease 1 stitch at armhole edge on next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows, then on he following 2 [3 : 3 : 3 : 4] alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 28 [28 : 29 : 31 : 31] stitches remain.

Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge only on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 20 [20 : 21 : 22 : 22] stitches remain.
Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches.

Right front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 5 stitches and leave on a spare needle.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]., * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 18 [13 : 13 : 13 : 18] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11].
2nd row: p9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: 8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5] stitches, k5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5].
4th row: p8, [3 : 3 : 3 : 8]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, k6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
6th row: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
7th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] .
8th row
: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
9th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7].
10th row
: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
11th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, k7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
12th row
: p7 [2, 2, 2, 7], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Pattern to last 5 stitches; cast off these 5 stitches.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts). Break yarn,

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and work 29 rows in pattern.
Next row: Pattern to end, then pattern across 5 stitches from spare needle. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern and complete to correspond with the Left Front, reversing shapings and changing needles as required.

Sleeves

With No 4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 53 [53, 57, 61, 61] stitches, and work 7 rows garter stitch (every row: sl1k, knit to end).
Next row: k2 [2, 4, 3, 3]; * m1, k7 [7, 7, 8, 8]; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 2, 2] stitches, m1, knit to end.
(61 [61, 65, 69, 69] sts).

Now work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing),: k6 [6, 8, 10, 10]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 13 [13, 15, 17, 17] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, K6 [6, 8, 10, 10].
2nd row: p4 [4, 6, 8, 8], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
3rd row: k5 [5, 7, 9, 9]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 0 [0, 2, 4, 4] stitches, k0 [0, 2, 4, 4].
4th row: p3 [3, 5, 7, 7]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1 ; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
5th row : K4 [4, 6, 8, 8]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
6th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
7th row: k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1, * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
8th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
9th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
10th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
11th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
12th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 18th [14th, 18th, 18th, 12th] row until there are 69 [71, 73, 77, 81] stitches, taking increase stitches into the pattern.
Work straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 17 [17 : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] inches, (43 [43, 44, 44, 44] cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2
rows, then decrease 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row until 31 [31 : 31 : 35 : 39] stitches remain.

Now decrease as before at each end of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
See special make up note on first page of text.
Join shoulder seams. Join side seams, leaving opening for pockets.

Pocket Borders: With right side facing and No 4 (6 mm) needles, knit up 23 stitches evenly along side edge of front between cast-off and cast-on stitches.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch (every row sl1k, knit to end).
Cast off.
Join side edges of border to cast-off and cast-on stitches.
Lightly stitch Pocket Linings in position on wrong side of fronts.

Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Left Front Border and Collar:
With No 4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in garter stitch (every row sl1k, knit to end, noting that first row is wrong side) until Border, when slightly stretched, fits up Left Front to start of front slope shaping, ending with right side facing for next row. Sew in position as you go along.

Shape Collar by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 6th row until there are 21 stitches.
Work straight until Collar fits up left side of neck and round to centre back of neck, ending with right side facing.
Sew in position as you go along.
Cast off loosely.

Right Front Border and Collar:
Work as for Left Front Border and Collar, reversing shapings.
Join Collar at centre back of neck.
Press seams.

Materials

25 [25 : 27 : 28 : 29]
50g skeins in a chunky yarn.

A pair each of Nos
4 (6mm), 3 (6½mm), and 2 (7mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 4 (6mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 5 sizes to fit chest:
32 [34 : 36 : 38 : 40] inches, (81 [86 : 91: 97 : 102] cm);
length from top of shoulders: 35 [35½ : 36 : 36¼ : 36¾] inches, (89 [90 : 91: 92: 93] cm);
and sleeve seam:
17 [17 : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] inches, (43 [43 : 44 : 44 : 44] cm).

Abbreviations

MK: make knot.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
kb or pb: knit or purl into back of stitch.
tbl: through back loop
sl: slip
sl1k: slip 1 stitch knitwise.

 

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a Patons Husky Chunky yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

IrishKnotWrapbw.jpg

October 2017

Shetland folklore sweater

ShetlandFolkSweater.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn sweater in a double knitting weight yarn. This is an example of early eighties "folklore style" but retaining classic shaping. [You can see the late seventies / eighties styling in the photo with the sweater worn tucked into pleated/gathered trousers].

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 107 [113, 119, 127, 133] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib rib for 2½ inches, (6cm), rows on right side having a k1 at each end and ending with wrong side facing
for next row.

Next row: Rib 8 [9, 9, 11, 11] m1; (rib 18 [19, 20, 21, 22], m1) 5 times, rib to end. (113 [119, 125, 133, 139] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart A, repeating the 10 pattern stitches 11 [11, 12, 13, 13] times across, and working the first
1 [4, 2, 1, 4] stitches and the last 2 [5, 3, 2, 5] stitches on knit rows, and the first 2 [5, 3, 2, 5] stitches and the last 1 [4, 2, 1, 4] stitches on purl rows as indicated, until Back measures 17½ inches, (39cm), ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 5 rows, then on every alternate row until 89 [95, 101, 107, 113] stitches remain.
‡‡

Work straight in pattern until Back measures 22½ [23, 23½, 23½, 24] inches, (57 [58, 60, 60, 61]cm), ending with right side
facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 9 [9, 10, 11, 11] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 8 [10, 10, 10, 12] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave remaining 37 [39, 41, 43, 45] stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Work straight in pattern until 14 [14, 14, 16, 16] rows fewer than on Back have been worked before start of shoulder shaping, thus ending
with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape neck as follows:
Next row: Pattern 34 [36, 38, 40, 42] k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 [37, 39, 41, 43] stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
(26 [28, 30, 32, 34] sts).

Work 4 [4, 4, 6, 6] rows.

Shape shoulder by casting off 9 [9, 10, 11, 11] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 8 [10, 10, 10, 12] stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre 17 [19, 21, 23, 25] stitches on a length of yarn, or stitch holder, and rejoin appropriate colour to remaining stitches: k2tog, pattern to end.

Complete to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 49 [51, 53, 55, 57] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5cm), rows on right side having a k1 at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next
row.

Next row: Rib 6 [6, 7, 6, 7] m1; (rib 12 [13, 13, 14, 14], m1) 3 times; rib to end. (53 [55, 57, 59, 61] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart B repeating the 10 pattern stitches 5 [5, 5, 5, 6] times across, and working first 1 [2, 3, 4, 0] stitches, and last 2 [3, 4, 5, 1] stitches on knit rows, and first 2 [3, 4, 5, 1] stitches and last 1 [2, 3, 4, 0] stitches on purl rows as indicated, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 13th and every following 7th [7th, 7th, 7th, 6th] row until there are 75 [77, 81, 83, 87] stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures approximately 17½ inches, (44cm), ending with the same pattern row as on Back before the start of the armhole shaping, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until 43 [43, 47, 47, 51] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 27 stitches remain. Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.

Join right shoulder seam.
Make Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, knit up 17 [17, 17, 19, 19] stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 [19, 21, 23, 25] stitches from centre front, knit up 17 [17, 17, 19, 19] stitches
up right side of neck, then knit 37 [39, 41, 43, 45] from back.
(88 [92, 96, 104, 108] sts).

Work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5cm).
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder seam and Neck Border.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Fold Neck Border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

Materials

50g balls Shetland DK in 6 colours: main shade plus 5 contrasts:

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38, 40] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97, 102]cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 22½ [23,
23½, 23½, 24] inches, (57 [58, 60, 60, 61]cm);
sleeve seam: 17½ inches, (44cm), all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker than that but the tension given here suggests slightly thinner!

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2017

Team Mates for Outdoors

TeamMatesForOutdoors.jpg

"Their woollies match - her warm button-up and his comfortable sweater"
But still so sad to have to say goodbye to the the lovely man.

Instructions.

Pattern rows used throughout:

1st row (wrong side facing): p3, * slip the next 2 stitches on to the cable needle and place to back of work, k2, k2 from cable needle (this will be called cable back), slip next 2 stitches on to cable needle to front of work, k2, k2 from cable needle (this will be
called cable front), p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, cable back, cable front, p3.
2nd row: k3, * (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k6, p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k3.
3rd row: p3, * (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p6, k8, p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p3.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 4 times more, then 2nd row again.

13th row: As 1st row.
14th row: k3, * p8, k6, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.
15th row: p3, * k8, p6, (k. l, p1) 3 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k8, p3.
Repeat 14th and 15th rows 4 times more, then 14th row again.

These 24 rows form the pattern.

Cardigan Back

With No. 12 needles cast on 98 stitches and work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 25th and every following 6th row, 6 times (110 sts), taking increased stitches into reversed stocking-stitch.
Work straight until back measures 12½mm inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 20 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then cast off remaining stitches loosely.

Cardigan Left Front

With No 12 needles cast on 42 stitches and work 3½ inches
in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches , p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern, shaping side edge by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 25th and every following 6th row, 6 times, taking increased stitches into reversed stocking-stitch.

Work straight until front matches back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every row until
31 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 18½ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, then on the following 3 rows at this edge.

Work straight until front measures 20 inches, then, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Cardigan Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles cast on 50 stitches and work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k7, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 15 stitches, p8, k7.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern but keeping the 7 stitches at each end of the needle in reversed stocking stitch instead of 3.

Thus your 1st row will read:
p7, * cable back, cable front, p6; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.

Continue thus in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 64 stitches , taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made (you will now have 5 cable panels across sleeve).

Continue increasing as before on every 6th row until there are 78 stitches, taking the increased stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 36 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 24 stitches remain; cast off.

Making Up the Cardigan

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Join shoulder seams.

Front bands:
With No 12 needles cast on 13 stitches and work a strip in moss stitch, [ie, every row (k1, p1) 6 times, k1], to fit up the left front when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along and leave stitches on a spare needle or a stitch holder at the top.

Make a similar strip for the right front with the addition of 11 buttonholes, the first to come ¼-inch from lower edge, and the 11th about ½-inch from the top (allowing for 12th hole to come in the neckband later) and the remainder at equal intervals. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes on right front to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
Moss 5, cast off 3, moss to end and then work back, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder as before.

Neckband:
With right side facing and No 12 needles, moss 13 stitches from right front border, pick up and knit 67 stitches all round neck and moss remaining 13 stitches from left border.

Work 1 inch in moss-stitch, making 12th buttonhole after ¾-inch has been done; cast off in moss stitch.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew on buttons.


Pullover Back

With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 126 stitches and work 3½ inches
k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; rep. from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and work straight in pattern, until back measures 14 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting oft 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 23 inches, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Pullover Front

Work exactly as for back to end of armhole shapings (96 stitches).

Work straight over all stitches until front measures 18½ inches at centre. Here divide for neck:
With right side facing, pattern 38, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continuing on first 38 stitches only, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following 3rd row until 30 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Now return to the remaining stitches. Slip the centre 20 on a spare needle or stitch holder, and rejoin the yarn to the last 38 stitches, at the neck edge, and work to correspond with first shoulder.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles cast on 64 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the last row (70 stitches).

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and working in pattern, increase 1 stitch at
each end of the 13th and every following 6th row until there are 88 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the reversed stocking stitch border.
Work straight until sleeve measures 19½ inches, or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 25 stitches remain. Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam, and with right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 120 stitches all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work 1 inch k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pullover

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

11oz for the cardigan and 13oz for the pullover.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm), No 11 (3mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
Cable needle.

12 buttons for the cardigan.

Tension

26 sts to 4 inches
(This must be measured over the pattern).

Size matters

Cardigan: To fit 33-34-inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 20½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18 inches.

Pullover: To fit 37-39 inch chest;
length from top of shoulders: 23½
inches;
sleeve seam, 19½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Pattern detail:

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Glengarry.
Originals colour "straw" No. 1037.

This yarn is described as a "medium weight sports yarn".

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2017

Beach Coat

BeachCoat1.jpg

Warm wrap for the beach with a hood - completely appropriate for a breezy British summer's day!
The wrap is lined with towelling (optional) - and I think this is an excellent idea for a beach wrap. You will need to choose as fine (thin) a towelling fabric as you can because the wrap will already be fairly chunky even though it is made from a light weight quickknit or 5ply.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Navy Blue by B, Green by G, and Pink by P.

Back

With colour B, cast on 130 (138) stitches and work 3 inches straight.
Fold work in half and make a hem on the next row.
Continue straight in B until piece measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to G and work 4 inches Break G.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to P and work 3 inches Break P.
Change to W and work straight until back measures 16 inches from
lower edge.
Continue in W and shape armholes by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off stitches

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows. Work 8 rows straight on remaining 46 (46) stitches
Transfer these stitches on to a spare knitting needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Right Front

With Colour B, cast on 68 (72) stitches and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row : Purl, casting on 10 (10) stitches at end of row for facing front edge.

Continue straight in B until work measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Join in W and continue in striped pattern exactly as for back until stripe in P is done. Break P.

Continue in W until front measures 16 inches from lower edge,
ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next row for armhole, then work straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off
stitches ending at armhole edge.

Next row (wrong side facing): shape shoulder by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the front edge, then work 8 rows straight on remaining 26 (26) stitches.
Transfer these stitches on to a spare needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Left Front

As for right front, cast on 68 (72) stitches in colour B, and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row (wrong side facing): cast on 10 (10) stitches for front edge facing, purl to end.

Work to correspond with right front reversing the shapings.
Editor's note: the cast off for the armhole and shoulder are with right side facing, and the cast off for the front edge is with wrong side facing.

Sleeves

With colour B, cast on 80 (80) stitches and work 4 inches straight in stocking-stitch for facing. Break B.
Change to W and work straight for a further 4 inches

Continue in W and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 100 stitches, then at each end of every following 4th row until there are 120 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve measures 20 (20) inches down centre from start of W.
Cast off loosely right across.

Hood

First Half:
With wrong side of work facing, slip 26 stitches from right front and 23 stitches from back of neck on to one needle. [49 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): * p2; purl twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [65 sts].

Continue in W and work 2 rows straight, then cast on 17 stitches at front edge for facing. Work 12½ inches straight.
Cast off.

Second Half:
Work to correspond with first half.

Facing:
Join back and top seam of hood.
With colour B, cast on 27 stitches and work a strip to fit all round front
edge of hood. Cast off.

To Make Up

Editor's note: lining the coat with fine towelling is optional (as is the colour of the lining material). However, if you are planning to do so, it is a good idea to cut out the lining using the knitted pieces as a pattern guide, at this point - before you sew the coat together. Allow ¼-½ inch turnings for the seams.

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, pinning out each piece to shape and taking care not to stretch centre edges on fronts.
Join shoulder seams.
Pin cast-off edge of sleeves along armholes in between the 10 cast-off stitches at start, then pin side edges of sleeves to the cast-off stitches thus giving a square effect to sleeve top.
Sew in position.
Join sleeve and side seams, matching stripes carefully.

Fold under 10 facing stitches down front edges and slip-hem lightly in position; catch down neatly at neck and lower edge.
Fold under 4 inches of blue facing on sleeves and catch down lightly all round on wrong side.

Press lightly and turn back 2½ inches of facing on to right side for cuffs.
Sew the white facing ribbon all round neck on wrong side just below start of hood, inserting cord as you do so. With W wool, bind or knot cord 1 inch in from each end, then fringe ends for tassels.

Sew blue facing all round front of hood, right sides facing, and along cast-on stitches at each side; turn width of facing on to wrong side and press; catch down neatly all round so that stitches do not show through on right side. Fold back on to right side and catch down at sides to keep in position.

Press all seams.

Line back, fronts and hood with yellow towelling if required.

Materials

Quick-knit, 5ply, or light double knitting: 14(15) 1oz balls in White, 6(6)oz in Royal Blue, and 2(2)oz each in Carnival Pink, and Shannon Green.

A pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

2 yards of fine yellow towelling for the lining; 1 yard of white facing ribbon; 1¼ yards white cord.

Tension

26 sts to 4 ins on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35(36-39) inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 26 inches
Sleeve seam: 16 ins with cuff turned back.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Quickerknit Botany.
Note that 1 oz is about 28g.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality and available in wonderful range of colours. [Though if you really want to use it a lot on the beach you might want to look for a less luxurious fibre option].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Make a Hem

There are a number of tutorials on You tube about making an invisible hem as you knit.

This one shows you two ways - the first part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

This one shows you a number of ways to make a hem starting with just making the hem at the end when you sew up. The latter part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

BeachCoat2.jpg

July 2017

Crochet Sun Hat

SunHat1.jpg

Instructions.

Note: Yarn is used double throughout.

Make 5 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch (ss) in 1st chain.
1st round: 3 ch, 9 tr into ring, join with ss in top of 3 ch. [10 sts]
2nd round: 3 ch, 1 tr in base of 3 ch, 2 tr in each stitch to end, join
with ss in top of 3 ch. [20 sts]
3rd round: 4 ch, * 1 tr in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * join with ss in 3rd of 4 ch. [20 ch sp]
4th round: ss in 1st ch sp, 1 dc in same ch sp, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch sp; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in first dc.
5th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st ch sp, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch sp; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in 1st dc
6th and 7th rounds: as 5th.
8th round: 1 ch, 2 dc in 1st ch sp, * 3 ch, 2 dc in next ch sp; repeat from * ending 1 ch, 1 tr in 1st dc.

Repeat the last round 13 times more.

Make row of holes for cord as follows:
22nd round: 2 ch, 2 htr in 1st ch sp, * 2 ch, 3 htr in next ch sp; repeat from * ending last repeat, 2 ch, ss in top of 2 ch.

Brim

23rd round: ss in next st, 1 dc in this st, * 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch sp, 2 ch, 1 dc in 2nd htr of previous round; repeat from * ending last repeat, 2 ch, ss in 1st dc.
24th round: ss in next ch sp, 1 ch, 2 dc in same ch sp, * 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch sp; repeat from * ending 1 htr in 1st dc.
25th round: 1 ch, 2 dc in 1st ch sp, * 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch sp; repeat from * ending 1 htr in 1st dc.
Repeat the last round 6 times more.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

To prevent heavy pressing and use of an iron, either of which could be injurious to fabric, some yarns state that they should not be pressed. Light pressing is suitable as follows:
Block brim by pinning out round edge and lightly press using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth.
Using 4 strands of yarn together make a twisted cord and thread through holes, tie in a bow at back.

SunHat2.jpg

Materials

3 x 50g balls in double knitting yarn.

A No 6 (5mm ) crochet hook

Tension

10 stitches and 7 rows measures 2 inches (5cm) over brim pattern.

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sp: space
ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
htr: half treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was "Promise" which was a brand name used more than once by Patons. This one is almost certainly the very slightly bouclé, fluffy yarn "with tricel" from the early seventies. In the eighties it was produced as a more fluffy synthetic double knitting/worsted.

June 2017

Cool Beauty

BlushingBride.jpg

"Roses All the Way"
The copy says "cool beauty with openwork patterning", and, lovely though she looks in a shady garden, I cannot help thinking that a June bride would be a bit hot and bothered dressed head to toe in knitwear.
It might be lovely for a winter wedding however, and given the time it would take to tackle such a project, you definitely need to plan ahead!.

Instructions

The pattern panel for the dress is worked over 5 stitches as follows:

1st row: yfwd, k2togtbl., k1, k2tog, yfwd.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd., k1.
4th row: purl.

Front

‡‡
Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 187 (203 : 221) stitches and starting with a knit row, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.
Work a further 11 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the centre of the last row on the 2nd size only. [187 (204 : 221) sts]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch, placing panel patterns as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, pattern 5 as 1st row of panel pattern, * k12, pattern 5 as 1st row of panel pattern; repeat from * to last
6 stitches, k6.
2nd row: p6, pattern 5 as 2nd row of panel pattern, * p12, pattern 5 as 2nd row of panel pattern; repeat from * to last 6 stitches , p6.

Keeping continuity of panel patterns, work thus until front measures 24 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.

1st decrease row: k2, k2tog, k2, pattern 5; * k5, k2tog , k5, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 6 stitches; k2, k2tog, k2. [175 (191 : 207) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k2, k2tog , k1, pattern 5; * k5, k2tog , k4, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k1, k2tog, k2. [163 (178 : 193) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k1 , k2tog , k1, pattern 5; * k4, k2tog , k4, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 4 stitches; k1, k2tog, k1. [151 (165 : 179) sts]
Work 41 rows straight.

4th decrease row: k1, k2tog, pattern 5; * k4, k2tog, k3, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; k2tog, k1. [139 (152 : 165) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front measures 39 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with 1st pattern row.

Next row: p2, pattern 5, * (p2tog) twice, (p2togtbl) twice, pattern 5; repeat from * to last 2 stitches; p2. [99 (108 : 117) sts]

Now work in lace pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * k1, yfwd, sl 1, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k1, C4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k1, yfwd, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k3.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row
: k2, * yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd, k4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches , yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd, k2.
4th row: purl.
These 4 rows form the lace pattern.

Continue in lace pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 115 (124 : 133) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 45 inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.
‡‡

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the of next 2 rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 97 (102 : 103) stitches remain; then decrease at each end of every alternate row until 83(88 : 91) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until front measures approximately 49½ (50 : 50½) inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with 2nd pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 30 (31 : 32), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Continue on these stitches for the first side, shaping neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 22 (23 : 24) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until front measures 52 (52½ : 53) inches from row of holes at hemline, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 (6 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 23 (26 : 27) stitches on a stitch holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches. Finish to correspond with
first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes and divide for back opening as follows:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern 53 (58 : 62), turn and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
Continue on these 53 (58 : 62) stitches for the first side, and work 1 row straight.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 48 (51 : 51) stitches remain, then on every alternate row until 41 (44 : 45) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern on these stitches until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 (6 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 7 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, casting off 1 stitch at the centre on the 1st and 3rd sizes only. Finish to correspond
with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 53 stitches and work 1½ inches in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and ending with right side facing.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.

Now work a further 1½ inches stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row and ending with right side facing. [54 sts]

Change to No 10 needles, and starting with 3rd row, work in lace pattern as for bodice on front, shaping as follows:

Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 11th (3rd : 3rd), and every following 15th (13th : 11th) row until there are 74 (78 : 82) stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve seam measures 17 inches from row of holes at wrist, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the of next 2 rows.
Work 2 rows straight.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 58/62/64 58 (62 : 64) stitches remain, then at each end of every alternate row until 28 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off.

Bonnet

Main part: With No 12 needles, cast on 125 stitches and work 1½ inches in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and ending with right side facing.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
This row forms row of holes for picot hemline.

Starting with a purl row, work a further 1½ inches in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row and ending with right side facing. [126 sts]

Change to No 10 needles and starting with 3rd row, continue in lace pattern as on bodice of dress, until work measures approximately 5 inches from row of holes, ending with 2nd pattern row.

Change to No 12 needles and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and decreasing 1 stitch at the centre on the last row. [125 sts]
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work a further 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.

Bonnet back part: With No. 10 needles, cast on 30 stitches and
work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 42 stitches.

Continue straight until bonnet back measures 5½ inches, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side, following instructions (if any) on the ball band, taking care not to spoil the lace pattern on bodice, sleeves and bonnet by over-pressing.

Dress: Join shoulder seams.

Dress Back Borders:
Left: With No 12 needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in garter stitch, (every row knit), until strip fits up left side from start of opening to neck edge. Sew in position as you go along.
Cast off.
Right: With No 12 needles, cast on 61 (65 : 69) stitches and work 6 rows stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work a further 7 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.
Fold border in half at row of holes to form picots, then sew in position along right side from start of opening to top of neck, leaving seven ½ inch spaces in seam to form buttonholes.
First mark position of buttons on button border with pins to ensure even spacing, then make holes to correspond. The first to come ½ inches above division, the last to come ½ inch below neck edge, and the remainder spaced evenly; oversew neatly round each buttonhole.

Neckband:
With right side facing and No 12 needles, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 4 stitches across top of left border, 19 (21 : 21) stitches from back, 18 down left side of neck, knit 23 (26 : 27) from front, decreasing 1 stitch at centre on 2nd size only, pick up and knit 18 up right side, 19 (21 : 21) from back and 4 from right border.
[105 (111 : 113) sts].
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2, * yfwd, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off loosely.
Fold neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Fold picot hems in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press
Place stud at top of neckband.

Bonnet:
Fold picot hems on edges in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position. Sew main part to back leaving small picot hem free.
Fold small picot hem at neck edge only towards back of bonnet and catch down.
Bonnet border: With No. 12 needles, cast on 7 stitches
1st row: k2, (p1, k1) twice, k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 3 times, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits along neck edge from left side to right side, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along.
Now work a further 3½ inches in rib, ending with 2nd row.

Next row: rib 2, cast off 2, rib to end and back, casting on 2 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off.
Press seams. Sew 1 small button on left side.
Divide flowers into 2 bunches and sew on either side.

Materials

Dress: 15 (17 : 18) x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe in white.
Bonnet: 2 x 50g.

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
Stitch-holder.
Cable needle.

7 small buttons.
Press stud.

Small artificial flowers and 1 button for Bonnet.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 36) inches, 81 (86 : 91) cm;
length from top of shoulders, 52 (52½ : 53) inches;
sleeve seam, 17 inches all sizes.

Bonnet: Average hat size.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward
sl: slip
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
C4: cable 4 by slipping the next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Kingfisher Tricel/Nylon, or Patons Cameo Crepe.
The quantities of yarn stated are for the Cameo yarn - which required more as the yardage for wool is not as great.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BlushingBride2.jpg

May 2017

Sunray Jumper

SunRayTop.jpg

Styled for the play-deck.
The good news is that this lovely sleeveless top from the 1950s is simple enough to knit - the bad news is that it is in 3 ply - really fine - yarn and comes in only 2 tiny sizes.
However, if you like the idea there is a charming 1930s Sun-Ray sweater that Susan Crawford has sized from 28-52 inch chest and transposed for the modern knitter in the book "Stitch in Time I".

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back and Front alike (make 2)

With two No 14 (2mm) needles cast on 165 (171) stitches and work 3 (3) inches in k3/p3 rib starting and ending right side rows k3.

Change to No 13 needles.

Next row (right side facing): * k2tog, k1, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. {118 (126) sts}.

Change to garter stitch, (every row knit), and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 156 (164) stitches. Continue straight for a few rows until work measures 11½ (11½) inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of the following 10 (10) rows: {138 (144) sts}.

Continue straight until work measures 13½ (13½) inches at centre.

Yoke

Using the circular needle, knit across 138 (144) stitches of the front, then on to this same needle cast on 87 (87) stitches for one shoulder, knit across 138 (144) stitches of back, then cast on 87 (87) stitches for second shoulder: 450 (462) stitches

Continue in rounds thus:
1st round: * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
Repeat this round for 3 (3) inches.

Next round:* k2tog, k1, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to end.
Work 2 (2) inches k2/p2 rib.

Cast off in rib, knitting together every 13th and 14th stitch.

Making Up

Press garter stitch parts very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding the ribbing.
Join side seams; press seams.

Altering the size

It would be feasible to increase the size by knitting in a thicker yarn - but you do need to make a swatch and do some arithmetic. Even changing to a 4 ply with 3¼mm needles would potentially change your chest size from a modest 34 to over 40 inches.

Materials

7 (7) ozs 3 ply in "Radiant Pink"

A pair each Nos 13 (2¼mm) and 14 (2mm) needles.
One circular No 14 (2mm) needle.

Tension

36 sts x 72 rows to 4 ins in garter stitch on No 13 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 20(20) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2017

Sail Away - pullover

TabardPullover.jpg

I admit that including the word "tabard" in the description of a pattern is not so inspiring - for one such as I anyway, a teenager in an era where tabards were ubiquitous and possibly naff even then. However it was named prior to that time and is after all merely descriptive - and I love this pullover. Styled perfectly as shown, worn over a polo-neck - very glamorous, very European, very sixties.

Sail away on a windy day in this attractive tabard style overpull. Jaunty and gay in snug and wind-proof yarn -- heavier than double-knit, yet so light and crisp in feeling. Gold and dark blue colour bands stripe the lower edges and smart side slits, and note the special crew neckline, designed to slip easily over a polo sweater.

Instructions.

Instructions for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Gold by G and Navy Blue by B.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 7 needles and white yarn W, cast on 76/82/88 stitches and work straight in stocking stitch until piece measures 17/17/17½ ins, ending with a purl row.

Shape neck:
Next row: knit 30/32/34. Turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, and work each side of the neck separately. Next row: cast off 2, purl to end.
Next row:knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 18/20/22 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 /21 /21½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder by casting oft 6/6/8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6/7/7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
With right side facing, slip centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin wool to the remaining 30/32/34 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Next row: cast off 2, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles and blue yarn B, cast on 46/46/48 stitches, and work 8 rows in garter-stitch, (every row knit). Break off B.
Join in gold yarn G, and work a further 8 rows in garter-stitch. Break off G.
Join in W, Change to No 7 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 76/76/80 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18½/18½/19 inches.
Editor's note: eagle-eyed among you may notice that you knit 18-19 inches here when the size quotes the sleeve seam as 2 inches shorter; this is because 2 inches of the length of the sleeve is sewn to the side panels - which will be clearer when you are making up and finishing.

Cast off loosely using a larger needle.

Borders

Front Neck: With right side facing, using yarn G, and No 8 needles, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round left side of neck, knit 16/18/20 from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round right side. {76/78/80 sts}

Next row: knit.
Next row: (k17, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k24, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k16, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Break off G.
Join in B. and knit 2 rows.
Next row: (k15, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row:
knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k20, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k13, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit. {58/60/62 sts}
Cast off evenly knitwise.

Back Neck: Work as for front neck

Lower Edge: With right side facing, No 8 needles and G, pick up and knit 76/82/88 stitches along lower edge of front.

Work 7 rows garter-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row.
Break G.

Join in B, and work 8 rows garter-stitch, increasing stitch at each end of every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.
Work the lower edge for the back in the same way.

Side edges:
Editor's note: You are making a side panel here, knit sideways from the back and front pieces, so you need to do this 4 times - once each side of the two pieces. Refer to the photo which makes it clearer..
Measure 8/8/ ins. down from shoulders for armholes and place a marker at each side edge on back and front.
With right side facing, No 8 needles and G pick up and knit 66/66/66 stitches along white panel on each side edge, ie between markers and start of border at lower edge.
Knit 7 rows G, increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on the next and every alternate row. Break G.
Join in B, and knit 8 rows increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join mitred borders at each corner of lower edge with a flat seam, using a fine backstitch seam.
Join side seams leaving 5 inches open at lower edge for side slits.
Join shoulder seams, matching borders.
Join sleeve seams to within 2 inches of cast-off edge.
Pin the 2 inches of open seam along side borders on back and front, then pin cast-off edge all round armhole; sew in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn: 13/14/15 1oz balls in White and 3 1oz balls in each of Gold and Light Navy Blue.

A pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

20 sts x 25 rows to 4 ins on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
34-35/36-37/38-39 inches, worn loosely as an overblouse.
Length from top of shoulders: 23/23/23½ inches.
Sleeve seam: 16/16/16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Flair - one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight . As usual no clues as to the yardage, but it was 60% wool, 40% courtelle (acrylic).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2017

French Connection

FrenchConnectionSweater.jpg

An expression of the era of safari suits and cravats* heralding a new "casual look" - where you could be smart without a lounge suit - like Brett Sinclair. [Having said that I can only find pictures of Brett with his safari jacket open necked or worn over a polo-neck, and his cravats worn conventionally with his suits; perhaps this was an expression of the character he was playing rather than fashion.]

If you overlook the styling - and maybe the colour - this is quite a nice sweater - and maybe cap if not all worn as an outfit. A shorter button-through neck would improve it for me.

* See gratuitous picture of Roger at the end of the instructions.

Sweater Instructions.

Back

**
With No. 7 needles, cast on 72/76/80/84 stitches

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): * Tw2R, k1 ; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * p1, Tw2L, p1 ; repeat from * to end.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k.3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
7th row: k1, p2, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, .
8th row: purl.
These 8 rows form pattern. Repeat them twice more.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 24th row until there are 78/82/86/90 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until back measures 17 inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 58/60/62/64 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 26/26½/27/27½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 26/26/28/28 stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work 2/1/2/1 rows straight.

Divide for front opening as follows:

Next row: pattern 26/27/28/29. Turn.
Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Work straight in pattern on these 26/27/28/29 stitches for first side until front measures 23/23/23½/23½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows, then on every alternate row until 16/17/17/18 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6/5/5/6 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 6 stitches on a safety-pin; rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 7 needles, cast on 32/32/36/36 stitches and work 3 inches in rib as on lower edge of back increasing 4 stitches evenly across last row: 36/36/40/40 stitches.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as on back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 6th row until there are 48/44/52/50 stitches.
Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 4th row until there are 62/64/66/70 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18/18/18½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 38/38/42/42 38/38/42/42 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 16 stitches remain.
Cast Off.

Left Front Border

With right side facing and No 7 needles, work across 6 centre stitches on front as follows:

1st row: k2, p1, m1, p1, k2 {7 sts}
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 3 times.
3rd row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2.

Repeat the last 2 rows until border, when slightly stretched, fits up left side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on .a safety-pin.
Using a flat seam, sew border in position.

Right Front Border

With No 7 needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in rib as for left front until border fits up right side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.

Do not break yarn. Leave stitches on a safety pin.
Sew border in position.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly under a damp cloth or following the instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar

With right side facing and No 7 needles, rib 7 stitches from right front border, pick up and knit 16/18/20/22 up right side of neck, knit 26/26/28/28 from back, increase 1 stitch at centre, pick and knit 16/18/20/22 down left side, then rib 7 border stitches.
{73/77/83/87 sts}

Shape collar as follows:

1st row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches , k2.
3rd row: k1, p1, k1, m1, rib to last 3 stitches, m1, k1, p1, k1.
4th row: k2, p2, rib to last 4 stitches, p2, k2.
5th row: as 3rd.
6th row: rib 34/36/39/41, (m1, rib1, m1, rib3) twice, m1, rib1, m1, rib to end.
7th - 9th rows: as 3rd - 5th rows.

Now repeat rows 2 - 5 until collar measures 4 inches at centre back, ending with 2nd or 4th row.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for making up, noting that yarn must be twisted from time to time during make up so that it does not break.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Catch down border stitches at base of opening on wrong side.
Press seams.

Materials

17/18/19/20 x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

15st and 20 rows to four inches on No 4 needles over stocking stitch.
16st and 20 rows over pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest: 17/18/19/20 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 26/26½/27/27½ ins;
sleeve seam:
18/18/18½/18½ ins

Abbreviations

Tw2R: k2tog, but do not slip stitches off needle; then knit first stitch again,
slipping both stitches off needle together
Editor's note: although the "twist 2 left" method (below) is familiar to me, I would not normally do a "twist 2 right" in this fashion. I would normally knit the second stitch on the needle without slipping it off the needle, then knit the first stitch and slip both off together. However, I am not sure if this instruction is intentional to achieve a slightly different pattern.
Tw2L: miss first stitch and knit into back of second stitch, then knit first stitch, slipping both stitches off needle together.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Cap Instructions

Crown

With No, 4 needles, cast on 14 stitches and purl 1 row.

Shape as follows:
1st row (right side facing): increase in first stitch, k1, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, Tw2R, increase in next stitch, k1.
2nd row: increase in first stitch, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, increase in next stitch, p1.
3rd row: increase in first stitch, k1, * p2, Tw2L; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch, p1.
4th row: increase in first stitch, purl to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, p1.
5th row: increase in first stitch, k3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last
2 stitches, increase in next stitch, k1.
6th row: increase in first stitch, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p1, increase in next stitch, k1.
7th row: increase in first stitch, p1, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,Tw2L, increase in next stitch, k1.
8th row:purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern, increase 1 stitch as before at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {34 sts}
Work 3 rows straight, then increase 1 stitch as before at each end of following row: {36 sts}
Work 9 rows straight. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row: {32 sts}
Work 1 row straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {26 sts}

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off

Brim

With No 7 needles, cast on 84 stitches.

1st row: (p2, increase in next stitch) 3 times, * p1, increase in next stitch, p2, increase in next stitch; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch p2. {116 sts}

Change to No 4 needles and work rows 1 - 8 of pattern as on back of sweater, then repeat rows 1 - 3 again. Cast off knitwise.

Peak

With right side facing and No 7 needles, pick up and knit 76 stitches along cast-on edge on the brim.
Knit 3 rows.

Shape as follows:
1st row: knit to last 19 stitches. Turn.
2nd row
: k2, increase in next stitch, (k1, increase in next stitch) 16 times, k3. Turn.
3rd and 4th rows: knit to last 21 stitches. Turn.
5th and 6th rows: knit to last 23 stitches. Turn.

Continue working short rows in this manner, working 2 stitches fewer on every 2 rows until the rows "knit to last 33 stitches. Turn" have been worked.

Next 2 rows: knit to last 36 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows
: knit to last 40 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows: knit to end, picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and knitting it together with next stitch to avoid a
hole. Knit 1 row.
Cast off knitwise.

Making Up

Block crown to a 9 inch circle by pinning out round edges, and press lightly under a damp cloth.
Block and press brim and peak.

Using a flat seam, join ends of brim.
Placing join to centre of cast-off edge of crown, oversew cast-off edge of brim neatly to edge of crown.

Materials

3x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

24st and 32 rows to four inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

"Average hat size".

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SaintSafariJacket.jpg

November 2016

Elegance for winter cocktails

BeadedTop.jpg

I admit this is clearly styled for summer but I always thought to make it in black with gold beads and perhaps a gold metallic yarn for the collar.
Either way it's a lovely flattering top in fine yarn.

This pattern offers you the option of beads - which are threaded on in advance and then knitted in - or "trimmmed with embroidery". I found a good alternative to pre-threading beads which is hooking them, where you can work them in as you go. I wrote about this technique in an earlier entry, and repeat the instructions here at the end of these pattern instructions.
I think beads would be lovely for a winter version and perhaps embroidery for summer.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. Instructions in square brackets also apply to both sizes.
For beaded version the instructions are the same, but to form the
pattern work "bead over next stitch" instead of p1 in the pattern
rows. The beads are knitted in on the right side of the work and to
work a "bead over next stitch" bring wool to front of work, push a
bead up wool close to front of work, slip 1 purlways, wool back; the
bead is now lying on top of the slipped stitch.

To thread beads on to the wool, make a needle with a 4-inch length of fuse wire by folding up 1½ inches of wire into a loop, slip the end of the wool through the loop, then twist the wire very tightly to form a smooth needle with the wool fixed firmly at the end.

[Editor's note: I wrote about threading beads in a previous article - go to this link to see some pictures.]

Back

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and pink wool, cast on 107 (113) stitches and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. With right side facing, change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

For bead version: break wool and thread 126 beads.

1st - 6th rows: Work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
7th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k5, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k29; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
8th row: Purl.
9th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k6, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k26; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
10th row: Purl.
11th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k7, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1]
3 times, k22; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
12th row: Purl.
13th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k8, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k21; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
14th row: Purl.
15th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k 9, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k14, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
16th row: Purl.
17th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
18th row: Purl.
19th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k11, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
20th row: Purl.
21st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k14, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k4, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k7; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
22nd row: Purl.
23rd (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k3, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k8; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
24th row: Purl.
25th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k20, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
26th row: Purl.
27th (pattern) row: k1 (4),* k19, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch," k1] 3 times, k10; repeat from * to last 1(4) stitches, k1 (4).
28th row: Purl.
29th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k18, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k13; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
30th row: Purl.
31st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k17; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
32nd row: Purl.
33rd - 38th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.
39th - 44th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.

For bead version, break wool and thread 126 beads.

45th - 70th rows: As 7th to 32nd rows but reverse, motif by reading pattern rows (odd rows) backwards,for example 45th (7th) row will read:
45th row: k1 (4), * k29, p1 or "bead over next stitch" k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).

71st - 76th rows: As 1st to 6th rows.

These 76 rows form pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until there are 125 (131) stitches, taking increased stitches into stocking stitch a few rows straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.
**

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 97 (99) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until 5 lines of motifs have been done, then continue in stocking-stitch until back measures 22½ inches down centre. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 37 (39) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. Continue in pattern shaping armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and following alternate row. [107 (113) sts]
Purl 1 row.

Now shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, pattern 45 (48), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.
Next row:
Purl.
Next row: k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge, on the following 3 (5) alternate rows, then keep this edge straight, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th row until 30 stitches remain.

Work straight in stocking-stitch until front matches back.

With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, shaping shoulder by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows (the armhole edge).
With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 13, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: Purl.
Next row:
k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Collar

Join shoulder seams. With No 11 needles and white (contrast) wool, cast on 31 (33) stitches.
1st row:* k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: Rib 1, rib2tog, rib to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, rib 1.
3rd row: Rib.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits comfortably all round neck. Cast off in rib; join short sides.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. With No. 11 needles, right side facing and pink wool, pick up and knit 110 (110) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Embroidered Jumper: With white wool embroider motifs in the pattern by working 6 diagonal lines of running stitches through the purl stitches of each motif all over back and front (see photo).

Join side seams.
Sew collar in position all round neck.
Press all seams and embroidery lightly.

Materials

7 (7) ozs Fingering 4 ply in "Radiant Pink", and 1 (l) oz in white.
For bead version:
white knit beads.

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-35 (36-37) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

increase in next stitch: knit into the front and back of the stitch.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is a standard Patons 4 ply yarn. 1oz is about 28g, so 7oz is 4 50g balls; however I cannot offer any information on the yardage.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.


October 2016

Little Lumber Jacket

LittleLumberJacket.jpg

A delightful little child's jacket from the 1950s. Beryl knitted it for her grandson and it looks lovely on him - see pictures at the end. [She also gives useful feedback on the sizing].

Instructions:

Two sizes are given - see notes on sizing with the photos at the end. Larger size is shown in brackets, and where only one number is shown it applies to both sizes.

Pocket Flaps (make 2)

Using No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 13 stitches.

1st row: Purl.
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K2, (p1, k1) twice, wf, k2tog, (p1, k1) twice, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Break off wool and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1. .
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Work these two rows 8[9] times more, increasing one stitch the beginning of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}.

††
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, knitting the first stitch on every row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 8½[10] inches from the beginning, finishing at the side edge.

Shape armhole by casting off 3[3] stitches the the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch the the armhole edge on every row until 26[28] stitches remain.
††

Work 3[4] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the side edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P5[7]; cast off 13, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P8[8]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.

††
Keeping yoke pattern correct as on last 6 rows,
[Editor's Note: the 1st row in the 6 row pattern is always purl all stitches.]
continue until work measures 12[14] inches from the beginning, finishing at the front edge.

Keeping yoke pattern correct, shape neck by casting off 5[6] stitches at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 17[18] stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5[]inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, finishing at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8[9] stitches, pattern to end.
2nd row: Pattern across all stitches.
Cast off.

Left Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times, increasing one stitch the end of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}

Work as for Right Front from †† to ††.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the front edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P8[8]; cast off 13, purl to end.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P5[7]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Complete as for right Front working from ††to end.

Back:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 65[71] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures same as fronts up to the armhole shaping, finishing at the end of a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every row until 51[55] stitches remain.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the end of a purl row.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): Purl.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Continue in yoke pattern as on these 6 rows until work measures same as fronts up to shoulder shaping.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8[9] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 9[9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off.

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 32[34] stitches and

Work 2¼[] inches in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 1[2], (increase in next stitch, rib 3) 7 times; increase in next stitch, rib to end. {40[42] sts}.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 10th[10th] row until there are 50[54] stitches.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 10½[12] inches from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 14[16] stitches remain.

Cast off.

Collar:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 85[89] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1..
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K1, k2togtbl, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, k2tog, k1.
4th row: K1, p1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
5th rows: K1, k2togtbl, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k2tog, k1.

Work rows 2-5 inclusive 3 times more, then the 2nd row once.

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Pockets (make 2):

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch for 2½[] inches.
Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Using back stitch, join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Stitch Pockets into position on wrong side, stitching top of Pockets along inside of Pocket Flaps.
Stitch on Collar.
Attach buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
Stitch zip into position.
Press all seams.

Materials

7 [9] oz Double Knitting Yarn.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

12[14] inch open ended zip.
Two buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 23½[25½] inch chest.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½[15½] inches.
Sleeve seam: 10½[12] inches.

Abbreviations:

yf: yarn forward; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 sts together through back loops (aka "ssk" - slip slip knit, - slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit them together).
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Moorland, Double Quick, or Totem DK.
Easily to find modern double knitting yarns but you will need to review the quantities.
Beryl used 2½ x 50g balls of Sirdar Snuggly - a synthetic yarn with a very good yardage (165m per ball). The original pure wools required 4-5 x 50g balls (which is consistent with my own "rule of thumb" of around 100 yards per 50g ball for pure wools).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LittleLumberJacket3.jpg

And here is a picture of the cardigan knitted by Beryl in a modern yarn: 2½ balls of Sirdar Snuggly Double Knitting:

LittleLumberJacket2.jpg

Beryl had some notes on the sizing. The original pattern was for 4-7 year olds; her grandson was only 20 months old and she left the length as it was written - she says: "he is a chunky littel chap" and previous feedback for the Little Raglan Reefer suggested the lengths of these old patterns works up a bit short for modern taste. The sleeves could have been shortened (for a 20 month old) as you can see the cuffs are turned back. Beryl found the zip a challenge and ended up using the sewing machine.
Her conclusion is that if the knitter does the length longer and leaves the sleeves as they are it would be more suitable for a 2-3 year old.

Beryl said: "I love the jacket on my grandson and I have recently found a picture of my brother wearing the same cardigan that my Mum made for him!"

Doug.jpg

[And needless to say this one is my personal favourite - how is it that all our brothers from that era have such wonderful cheeky grins? All of them "Just William".]

September 2016

Plaid Pullover

PlaidSlipover.jpg

Pullover in a range of sizes, with an interesting plaid effect made by slipping stitches.
Joy first knitted it 35 years ago for her husband and he liked it so much he was always asking her to redo it. It took a while but she finally managed it - see her satisfied hubby at the end....

Instructions:

The instructions are given in 9 sizes with smallest size given first and the larger sizes in brackets.

Back


Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting yarn cast on 93 [99; 105; 111; 115; 121; 127; 133; 137] stitches.

1st row (right side): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end..
Repeat these rows 9 times more.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and commence pattern.

1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th sizes only

1st row: Purl
2nd row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, knit to end.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, purl to end.
4th row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, knit to end.
5th row: Purl 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches; [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, purl to end.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

3rd and 7th sizes only
(Note: same instructions for both sizes)

1st row: Purl
2nd row: K4, purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k7, * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, purl next stitch, winding yarn 3 times round needle, k4.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p4,yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p7, * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p4.
4th row: Knit 4, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k7 * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k4.
5th row: Purl 4, yb, slip l purlwise, p7 * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; yb, slip l purlwise, p4.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

All sizes

Continue in pattern ...

....until work measures 14 [14½; 14½; 15; 15; 15½; 15½; 16; 16] inches from the beginning , ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 69 [75; 79; 83; 87; 91; 95; 99; 101] stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 8¼ [; ; 9; ; ; ; 10; 10¼] inches from the commencement of the armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as given for back from to until work measures 8 rows less than the Back to armhole shapings ending with a wrong side row.

Shape First side of neck
Next row (right side facing): Pattern , 43 [46; 49; 52; 54; 57; 60; 63; 65], p2tog, p1. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Pattern to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to last 9 stitches, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern to end.

††
Continue to decrease in this way at the neck edge on every 4th row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until there are 29 [32; 34; 35; 37; 39; 41; 43; 43] stitches remaining.
Keeping side edge straight, decrease at neck edge as before until 20 [22; 23; 25; 26; 28; 29; 30; 30] stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as the Back to shoulder shaping, ending at the side edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 9; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches.
††

Return to the stitches on the spare needle on the other half of the front. Slip the centre stitch onto a safety pin.

Shape second side of neck:
Next row: Joining in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, p1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row:P1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: Pattern 7, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 7, work 2 together, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.

Complete to match the first side, working from †† to ††.

Neckband

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches down left side of neck, knit centre from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread or stitch marker), pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches of back neck, increasing into last stitch: 167 [173; 179; 183; 189; 193; 199; 205; 211] stitches.

1st row: Work in k1/p1 rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch; slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at back of work, place stitch on right hand needle back onto
left hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle and p3tog; p1/k1 rib to end.
2nd row: Rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at front of work, slip next stitch onto right hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle, then place both stitches on right hand needle back onto left hand needle and k3tog; rib to end.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more, then the first row once.
Cast off in rib, decreasing on this row as before.

Armbands

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join left shoulder seam and Neckband. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 90 [94; 96; 100; 102; 104; 108; 110; 112] stitches evenly along armhole edge.
Work 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and steam very gently, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Using matching yarn, join side seams and armbands.

Materials

Yarn A - bouclé double knitting: 3 [3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5; 5; 5] x 50g balls
Yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting: 3 [3; 3; 3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5] x 50g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit: 32 [34; 36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48] inches.

Chest actual: 34 [36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48; 50] inches.

Length: 23-27 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

sl: slip

yb: yarn back

A word on the wool

You can see in the picture this is knitted in two different colours and textures of double knitting yarn.

Finding a substitute will not be impossible as DK yarns are fairly standard, though it might be trickier to find the bouclé.

The example shown, used Stylecraft double knitting yarn in just the one texture (no bouclé). It took 125g of the maroon colour and just under 100g of the grey (or silver).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PlaidSlipoverU.jpg

Joy's DH - doesn't he look pleased? (and only a little self-conscious...)

July 2016

The Fringe of Fashion

FringedWaistcoat.jpg

Fringes appeared everywhere last year so this may still have a place this summer. The seventies photo is delightful - a sophisticated peasant style making you long for an adventurous getaway to foreign climes - you can feel that heat.
However the editors haven't quite caught up in the ways of modern copy to match...
"... a dashing little crochet vest to wear in many ways."

Instructions.

The pattern is given in one size.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the underarm.

Back and Fronts

Using 2 balls of yarn and working with yarn doubled, make 128 ch

Foundation row: 1 dtr in 6th ch from hook, * miss 1 ch, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch; repeat from * to end.

1st row: 1 dc in 1st stitch, * miss next 3 stitches (that is: 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch), 8 ch, 1 dc in next stitch; repeat from * working last dc in 4th of 5 turning ch, turn with 10 ch (work into 3rd of 4 turning ch here on all following 1st pattern rows).
2nd row: 1 dc in 1st ch loop, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, 4 ch, make long stitch in last dc as follows: (yrh) 4 times, insert hook into last dc and draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through 2 loops on hook) 5 times.
[Editor's note: This long stitch is simpler than it looks - you make it in the same way you would a treble or double treble or triple treble - just start with 5 wraps on the hook as it tells you.]
3rd row: 1 dc in 1st stitch, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, turn with 4 ch.
4th row: 1 dtr in 1st ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in 1st dc, * 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows form pattern.
Repeat them 3 times more, then rows 1 to 3 again.

Divide for armholes as follows:

Next row: 1 dtr in next ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, (1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc) 6 times, turn.

Continue for right front, shaping armhole and neck as follows :

**
1st row: as 1st pattern row, omitting turning ch.
2nd row: 1 ss in 1st dc, 1 ss in 3 ch of next ch loop, 1 dc in same ch loop, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: 1 ss in 1st dc, 1 ss in first 3 ch of next ch loop, 1 dc in same loop, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, turn with 4 ch.
4th row: as 4th pattern row.
**
Repeat the last 4 rows twice more, after which you have 5 stitches = 4 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr.
Fasten off.

Continue for back as follows:

Leaving 7 stitches unworked, rejoin double yarn to next dc, make 4 ch, 1 dtr in next ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, (1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc.) 12 times, turn.

Work the 4 rows as for right front from ** to ** then repeat these 4 rows twice more: after which you have 29 stitches = 4 ch, 1 dtr, (1 ch, 1 dtr) 13 times.
Fasten off.

Continue for left front as follows:

Leaving 7 stitches unworked, rejoin double yarn to next dc, make 4 ch, 1 dtr in next ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, * 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

To prevent heavy pressing and use of a hot iron, either of which could be injurious to the fabric, light pressing may be suitable as follows:

Block each piece by pinning out round edges and press using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth.

Join shoulder seams.

With double yarn, work 1 row dc along front and neck edges.
Work 1 round dc along armhole edge.

For the front ties: Make two lengths of ch. 20 inches (51 cm) long and sew one to each side of front, level with armhole division.

Fringes: Cut remaining yarn into 12 inch (30 cm) strips and taking 6 strands together each time, knot through lower edge, placing
each fringe in a chain space.

Materials

6 50g balls DK in white with the yarn used double throughout (see A Word on the Wool)

Crochet hook No
5 (5½mm)

Tension

One pattern (4 rows) is 2½ inches (6cm).

Size matters

To fit chest:
34 - 37 inches, (86 - 94 cm);
length from top of shoulders, 21½ (54 cm) without fringes.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space
L: loop
yrh: yarn round
hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Patons marketed two different yarns called Promise in different eras both DK equivalents. This pattern, being crocheted and from the 1970s, is the earlier manifestation - a smooth yarn "with Tricel" sold in 50g balls. [The later yarn marketed in the 1980s was a fluffy acrylic with a good yardage, thus sold in 40g balls].
Potentially any double knitting quality can be used (knitting tension would be about 22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches or 10 cm). However, working with the yarn doubled can be difficult, especially in crochet, so I would be inclined to look for a chunky cotton type yarn to substitute and use it single strand - although the choice may be more limited.

June 2016

Anyone for Tennis?

TennisDress.jpg

This is a knitted dress with crochet insets.....
"... to line up the prettiest back view".

No denying the charm of this dress (and model) though sadly I need them to be a little less revealing these days. But in the words of my 82 year old aunt - at the height of the mini skirt fashion when I was 13 - "well if I had legs like yours I'd bloomin' well show 'em off!".

Instructions.

Special cluster stitch as follows:
[Editor's note: You will probably find this stitch easier to execute when you try it as opposed to how it appears on paper.]

Make Cluster:
(yrh) twice, insert hook in next tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice, * (yrh) twice, insert hook into same tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice *; repeat from * to * twice more, draw a loop through all 5 loops on hook.

Front

Using size 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 156 (164 : 172 : 180) stitches and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until front measures 1½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14) k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11: 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [132 (144 : 152 : 160) stitches ]

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 84 (92 : 100 : 104) stitches remain, ending with a decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only :
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: {k - (11 : 13 : -)}, k2togtbl, knit to last - (13 : 15 : -) stitches, k tog., k - (11 : 13 : -). [84 (90 : 98 : 104) stitches

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until front measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 114 (120 : 128 : 134) stitches, ending with an increase row.
Work 11 rows straight.

Shape armhole and divide for neck:

Next row: cast off 4, k 51 (54 : 58 : 61), k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.

Continue on these 52 (55 : 59 : 62) 52/55/59/62 stitches for the first side as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 37 (40 : 41 : 44) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 25 (26 : 27 : 28) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at neck edge on every alternate row until 21 (22 : 22 : 23) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight.

Now decrease at the neck edge on the next and every following 4th row until 16 stitches remain.

Work straight until armhole measures 7 ( : 8 : ) inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6 stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches, k2tog, knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Left Back

With No 10 needles, cast on 61 (65 : 69 : 73) stitches, and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until back measures 1½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [49 (55 : 59 : 63) sts]

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 25 (29 : 33 : 35) stitches remain, ending with an decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only: Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k. to the last - (11 : 13 : -) stitches, k2tog, k - (11 : 13 : -). 25 (28 : 32 : 35) sts]

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until back measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, ml, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14). Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 35 (38 : 42 : 45) stitches.
Work 3 rows straight.

Continue shaping bodice and at the same time shape back slope as follows:

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row
: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog , knit to end.
Work 1 row straight.

Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog , k. to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.

Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14) [34 (37 : 41 : 44) sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at back slope on the next and every following
3rd row until 30 (33 : 37 : 40) stitches remain.

Continue shaping back slope and shape armhole as follows:

Next row: knit.
Next row: cast off 4, purl to end.

Continue decreasing at back slope on next and every following 3rd row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 14 (17 : 18 : 21) stitches remain.

Now decrease at the armhole edge on every alternate row and continue decreasing at back slope as before until 4 (5 : 6 : 8) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at back slope as before until 2 stitches remain.
Work 2 rows straight.
P2tog and fasten off.

Right Back

Work to correspond with the left back, reversing shapings.
Your 1st decrease row on the skirt will read:
{k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to end.

Your increase row on bodice will read:
k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to end.

Crochet border

With No 11 (3mm) hook, make 340 (356 : 372 : 388) chain.

1st row (right side facing): 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, * 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, *1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 Cl. (CL = cluster - see start of instructions) in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 4 ch, {1 tr in next 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of last 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, {1 ch, 1 tr in next tr} twice, 1 ch; repeat from * ending last repeat, 1 ch, 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

This completes lower edge border, do not break yarn.

Sewing in position as you go along, work left back border as follows:

1st row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, turn.
2nd row:: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Rows 2 to 6 inclusive, form border pattern.

Continue in pattern until border fits up left back edge to top of slope, when slightly stretched.
Then continue in crochet pattern beyond the end of the knitted piece until back matches front at armhole edge (see photo), ending with 2nd, 4th or 5th pattern row.
Fasten off.

Work right back border as follows:

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to 9th stitch in from left-hand edge of bottom border and make 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Finish to correspond with left border.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder and side seams, then join border to lower edge.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, work 1 round dc all round armhole.

Work picot edging as follows:
Next round: * 1 dc in next 3 dc, {ss, 4 ch, ss} in next dc; repeat from * all round armhole, join with ss in first dc Fasten off.

Neck, Back and Lower Edge Border: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, start at left back lower edge and work 1 row dc up
left back, all round neck, down right back and along lower edge, increasing and decreasing to ease round corners as required.
Join with ss in first dc.

Next round: Work in dc to a point level with the start of the back slope shaping, then work picot edging up to shoulder, all round neck and down right back to point level with the start of back slope shaping.

Then finish by working in dc to lower edge, working 16 button loops.
First mark the position of the buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond - the first is to come over next 2 stitches, and the 16th to come 2 inches above lower edge, and the remainder spaced evenly.

To make a button loop: Work 3 ch, miss 2 dc.

Now work picot edging along lower edge, join with ss in first dc.
Fasten off.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 (5 : 6 : 6) x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe in white.

Pair No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Crochet hooks Nos
11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm) needles.

16 buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch.
Crochet Border: 2 pattern repeats measure 4¼ inches in width.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches, 81 (86 : 91 : 97) cm;
length from top of shoulders, 29 (29½ : 30 : 30½) inches, 74 (75 : 76 : 77) cm.

Abbreviations:

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

ch: chain
CL: make cluster (see instructions)
tr: treble crochet
dc: double crochet
yrh: double crochet
sp: space
ss: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Limelight 100% acrylic - knits as 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


This is styled reminiscent of the astonishingly popular seventies photo depicting the back view of a female tennis player (or more accurately "a student in tennis whites").

FionaButler.jpg

And not forgetting, the year after this photo was taken, we were all inspired by British tennis as Virginia Wade won the 1977 ladies singles at Wimbledon (without having to reveal her bottom).

WadeWins.jpg

I was unable to watch the match as I was working during my student summer break - but in the evening at Victoria railway station - where they had only just installed the new electronic announcement boards - I read "Wade wins Wimbledon 4-6, 6-3, 6-1" demonstrating the sense of elation felt by all since this was a pretty unusual departure from the norm for good old British Rail at that time...

May 2016

Diamond Marine Top

DiamondMarine.jpg

An irresistible summer top in clean cut navy an white.
As well as the understated pattern of navy diamonds, there is a subtle vertical line of patterning within the white body of the top, which draws the eye to emphasise the flattering shape.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back

**
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and blue yarn (B), cast on 120 (124 : 128) stitches and work 10 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row.

Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: This row forms a ridge for the hem line.]

Work a further 9 rows in stocking stitch starting with a purl row, increasing 2 (6 : 10) stitches evenly across last row.
[122 (130 : 138) sts].

Break B.

With right side facing, change to No 10 needles and yarn W; pattern as follows:

1st row: k14 (18 : 22), * p2, k21; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k14 (18 : 22).
2nd row: p14 (18 : 22), * k2, p21; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p14 (18 : 22).

These 2 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight until back measures 4 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 12th row until there are 132 (140 : 148) stitches.
**

Work straight until back measures 14 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows. [120 (126 : 132) sts].
Continue straight until back 20½ (20½ : 21) inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 12 rows, then 5 (7 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 38 (40 : 42) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. [132 (140 : 148) sts]
Continue straight until front measures 11½ inches from purl ridge.

Wind off 4 small balls of yarn B. With right side facing, introduce diamond motifs, joining in a separate ball of B for each diamond.

1st row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k10 W, join in B and k1 B, k10 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
2nd row: p19 (23 : 27) W, k2 W, * p9 W, p3 B, p9 W, k2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, p19 (23 : 27) W.
3rd row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k8 W, k5 B, k8 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
4th row: p19 (23 : 27) W, k2 W, * p7 W, p7 B, p7 W, k2 W;
repeat from * 3 times more, p19 (23 : 27) W.
5th row: k19 (23 : 27) W, p2 W, * k6 W, k9 B , k6 W, p2 W; repeat from * 3 times more, k19 (23 : 27) W.
6th row: as 4th.
7th row: as 3rd.
8th row: as 2nd.
9th row: as 1st.
Break yarn B.
10th-12th rows: in W, keeping 2-row pattern consistent.

Repeat these 12 rows twice more and at the same time when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and and following 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows. [120 (126 : 132) sts].

Now keep armhole edge straight but continue working diamond motifs until 3 complete patterns have been done.
Break B.
Work a few rows straight in W until front measures 16 inches from purl ridge.

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 58 (61 : 64), k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on first half of work and shape neck edge by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next 7 rows, then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row until 41 (43 : 45) stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 5 alternate rows.

Next row: in pattern, cast off remaining 5 (7 : 9) stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, k2tog, pattern to end, and finish to correspond with first side.

Collar

With No 10 needles and yarn B, cast on 179 (181 : 189) stitches.

Next row: k35, knit twice in the next stitch, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k101 (103 : 111), knit twice in the next stitch,, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k35.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k36, knit twice in the next stitch, k2, knit twice in the next stitch, k103/(105 : 113), knit twice in the next stitch, k2,
knit twice in the next stitch, k36.
Next row:
purl.
Continue increasing 4 stitches thus on the next and following alternate row. [195(197 : 205) sts]
Next row: knit. [This last row forms ridge for hemline.

Next row: k38, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k107(109 : 117), k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k38.
Next row:
purl.
Next row:
k37, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k105(107 : 115), k2tog, k2, k2, k2tog tbl, k37.
Next row:
purl.
Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and following alternate row. [179 (181 : 189) sts]
Next row:
purl.
Break yarn B.

With right side facing, change to W and continue as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k32, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k99 (101 : 109), k2tog, k2, k2togtbl, k32, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, k30, k2tog, k2, k2togtbl,
k97 (99 : 107) , k2tog, k2, k2togtbl, k30, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Continue decreasing 6 stitches thus on the next and every alternate row until 77 (79 : 87) stitches remain.
Next row:
purl.
Next row:
k2tog , k2, k2togtbl, knit to the last 6 stitches, k2tog , k2, k2tog tbl.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k4tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, k4tog.
Next row:
purl.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Join shoulder seams.
Armhole Facings: With No 12 needles and yarn W, right side facing, pick up and k108 (108 : 116) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib using a bigger needle.
Join side seams.

Turn under the 9 rows of stocking stitch to wrong side up to the purl hem line all round the lower edge and slip-hem in position.
Turn under 6 rows of ribbing to wrong side all round armhole and slip-hem in position.
Join blue border on collar neatly at centre front, then turn under 7 rows of stocking stitch up to the purl ridge and slip-hem lightly on wrong side. Press hem.
Sew collar neatly in position.

Press all seams and hems.

Materials

7 (8 : 8) ozs 4 ply crepe in White (W), and 2 oz in Marine Blue (B).

A pair each Nos 12 (2¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

29sts x 37 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36 : 37-38) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 21½ (21½ : 22) inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is a standard Patons Cameo Crepe 4 ply yarn. 1oz is about 28g, so 7oz is 4 50g balls; however I cannot offer any information on the yardage.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2016

Seafarers' Sweaters

This has to be a favourite for me, combining a boating theme with navy and white.
It is a pattern from the seventies but was quite a new idea - a forerunner of those drop shoulders and cowl neck designs which were so ubiquitous in the eighties - and seemingly popular now.

Instructions.

Instructions for six sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in two colours (dark and light) - Navy is represented by D (dark) and Cream represented by L (light).

Back

With No 9 needles and yarn D, cast on 84 (92 : 97 : 100 : 108 : 112) stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
2nd row:
k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows until rib measures 3 inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 5 needles and knit 1 row, increasing 1 stitch at centre:. [85 (93 : 97 : 101 : 109 : 113) sts]

Join in yarn L, and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: right side facing, in L, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4), sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, * k7, sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4).
2nd row: in L, knit.
3rd row: in D, k 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, * k9, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches, k7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5).
4th row: in D, knit.
5th-16th row: as 1st-4th rows worked 3 times.

17th row: in L, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k7, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, k 7 ; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches , sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
18th row: : in L, knit.
19th row: in D, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k9, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
20th row: in D, knit.
21st-32nd rows: as 17th-20th rows worked 3 times.

These 32 rows form pattern. Repeat them until back measures 15 (15 : 15 : 16 : 16 : 16) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [75 (83 : 87 : 91 : 99 : 103) sts].

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until back measures 23 (23 : 24 : 25 : 26 : 26) inches, ending with right side facing

Shape shoulders by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 51 (59 : 63 : 67 : 75 : 79) stitches remain.
Cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 5 (5 : 4 : 6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Slip the remaining 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back to start of armhole shapings.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33), slip these stitches on a spare needle, cast off 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches, pattern to end.

Continue on these last 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33) stitches for the first side and work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by decreasing 1 stitch at end of next row, then at the same edge on every row until 11 (13 : 14 : 16 : 19 : 21) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, then cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin appropriate yarn colour to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 9 needles and D, cast on 40 (40 : 44 : 44 : 48 : 48) stitches and work 3 inches in rib as for back, ending with wrong side facing.

Change to No 5 needles.
Next row: k2, m1, {k9 (9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 11), m1) 4 times, k2. [45 (45 : 49 : 49 : 53 : 53) sts].

Join in L and pattern 4 rows as for 2nd (2nd : 3rd : 3rd : 4th : 4th), size of back.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73 : 81 : 81 : 89 : 89) stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 17½ (17½ : 18½ : 19 : 20 : 20) inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 83 (83 : 91 : 91 : 99 : 99) stitches. Break L.

Change to No 9 needles.
Next row: in D, knit, increasing 5 stitches evenly across row. [88 (88 : 96 : 96 : 104 : 104) sts].

Work 7 rows rib as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side following instructions on the ball band and omitting ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar:

With right side facing, using the set of four (or circular) No 9 needles and D, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) from back decreasing 1 stitch at centre, then pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches down left side of neck. [128 (132 : 144 : 144 : 156 : 156) sts].

Divide stitches evenly on 3 needles to facilitate working.
Work backwards and forwards, starting with 2nd row, and rib 42 (48 : 52 : 52 : 56 : 56) rows as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew short edges of collar in position to cast-off stitches on front, overlapping right side on to left for Her sweater and left on to right for His.

Join side seams and sleeve seams up to rib.
Join side edge of rib to cast-off stitches at start of armholes on back and front, then sew cast-off edge of rib to armhole edges.
Press seams.

Materials

Aran weight yarn: 10 (11 : 12 : 13 : 14 : 15) 50g balls in Navy and 6 (7 : 7 : 8 : 8 : 9) in Cream.

A pair each of Nos 9 (3¾mm) and 5 (5½mm) needles.
A set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles - or a circular needle.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 19 sts x 36 rows to 4 ins measured over pattern on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches, 86 (91 : 97 : 102 : 107 : 112) cm.
Length from top of shoulders: 25 (25 : 26 : 27 : 28 : 28) inches, 63 (63 : 66 : 69 : 71 : 71) cm.
Length of sleeve at centre: 19½ (19½ : 20½ : 21 : 22 : 22) inches, 49 (49 : 52 : 53 : 56 : 56) cm.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch purlwise with yarn at back.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Capstan - an Aran weight yarn knitting to a tension of 18 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch. No clues as to the yardage but it was a fairly dense pure wool so I would not expect it to have a long yardage

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2016

Duck Slippers for Easter

DucksSlippers.jpg

Cute little slippers with ducklings, or kittens.
Easy and quick to knit, with their very effective little pom-pom heads.
[I'm guessing that with a little adaptation you could close in the top of the slippers and stuff them to make tiny duckling toys - if you are feeling adventurous....?!]

Instructions

There are two sizes with instructions for the second size given in brackets.

Both versions:

Using either yellow (for duckling) or white (for kitten) and No 9 needles, cast on 20 (26) stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): sl1, k8(11), p2, k9(12)
2nd row: sl1, k9(12), m2 (1), k10(13)
3rd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k2(1), p1, k9(12)
4th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k2(1), m1, k10(13)
5th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k4(3), p1, k9(12)
6th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k4(3), m1, k10(13)
7th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k6(5), p1, k9(12)
8th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k6(5), m1, k10(13)
9th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(7), p1, k9(12). [28(33) sts]

2nd size only
10th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(7), m1, k-(13)
11th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(9), p1, k-(12)
12th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(9), m1, k-(13)
13th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(11), p1, k-(12). [28(37) sts]

Both sizes - continue as follows:

1st row: sl1, knit to end.
2nd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(11), p1, k9(12).

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2½ (3) inches ending with a 1st row.

Next row: sl1, {m1, k3}, 2(3) times, m1, k2, p1, {k2, m1} 3(4) times, k 2(3), p1, k2, {m1, k3} 2(3) times, m1, k1. [37(49) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 4½ () inches ending with right side facing.

Next row: k1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 1(2) times,rib 5, {k2tog} 1(2) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, k1.

Next row: rib 1(2), {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, p1, {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1(2).

Next row: {k2tog} 3(2) times, {k3tog} 1(3) times, {k2tog} 3 times. [7(8) sts]

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches; draw up tightly and fasten off securely.
Join toe seam along to start of garter stitch. Fold cast-on edge in half and join heel seam.

Completing the Duckling version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining yellow yarn, each 1½ inches in diameter.
[Editor's note: You can see how to make pom-poms in one of my other entries in 2013.]

Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 small circles of blue felt for eyes and sew to each side of the heads, ensuring that the needle passes through the centre of each pom-pom to keep the eyes secure.
Cut 2 beaks of yellow felt, fold in half and oversew along fold. Sew the beak in position to the centre front of the pom-poms, pushing fold of beak in towards centre of pom-pom and sewing in place securely.

Completing the Kitten version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining white yarn each 1½ inches in diameter. Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 triangles of pink felt for ears and sew one to each side on top of the heads with one point upwards, ensuring needle passes through the centre of the pom-pom to make the ears secure.
Cut 4 small ovals of blue felt for eyes and sew in position.
Cut 2 very small triangles of pink felt for nose and sew to centre front of face.
Thread 2 Strands of pink yarn through pompon from side to side of
face for whiskers, and trim. (See photo).

Materials

Duckling version:
1 x 50g ball in yellow.
Kitten version:
1 x 50g ball in white with scraps of pink for whiskers.

Pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Scraps of yellow, pink, and blue felt.

Tension

23sts x 48 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit 5-5½ (6-6½) sock size.

Abbreviations:

sl1: slip a stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.
m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
m2: make 2 stitches by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the front and back of it.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2016

Soft knit sash cardigan

SashCardigan.jpg

Cosy and snug wrap cardigan with a sash belt. I would probably knit it for myself as shown, but it may be more stylish if worn longer or over-sized and perhaps without pockets.

The original yarn was a soft heathered and slightly fluffy Shetland type. I think this would be lovely knitted in the hand-dyed yarn available from the Little Grey Sheep.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 4 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Note: Where a number of stitches is given, this refers to the basic number and does not include those made in the pattern.

[Editor's note: I have copied the note above from the original pattern - it will make more sense when you start knitting as the the number of stitches you end up with at the end of each row increases and decreases as part of the pattern stitch.]

Back

With No 11 needles, cast on 112 (120 : 126 : 132) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15), {ml, rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15)} 6 (5 : 6 : 6) times, ml, rib to end. [119 (126 : 133 : 139) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches , Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
3rd row:as 1st.
4th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
5th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p5, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, p5, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
6th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
7th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p7, k6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, p7, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
8th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
9th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p9, k6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches. p9, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
10th row: k 1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
11th row: as 7th.
12th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
13th row: as 5th.
14th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

These 14 rows form pattern for back.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures approximately 18 inches, ending with 14th pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern shape armholes as follows:

Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), k4 (1 : 7 : 1), * p3, k6 repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p4 (1 : 7 : 1), k 1
Next row: k5 (2 : 8 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, p 3, k5 (2 : 8 : 2).

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Cast off remaining 39 (40 : 41 : 43) stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 9 needles, cast on 30 stitches and work 29 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row
Next row: k6, (ml, k6) 4 times. [34 stitches].
Leave these stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**
With No 11 needles, cast on 54 (58 : 62 : 64) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 9 (11 : 15 : 14), {ml, rib 12 (12 : 16 : 12)} 3 (3 : 2 : 3) times, ml, rib to end: [58 (62 : 65 : 68) stitches]
*
*

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k6 (2 : 6 : 6), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches , Tw3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work a further 27 rows, thus ending with 1st pattern row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of first pocket lining, pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22).

Continue straight in pattern until 14 rows less have been worked than on back to start of armhole shaping, thus ending with 14th pattern row.

Shape front edge as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k4 (9 : 4 : 4), pattern to end.
Next row: pattern to last 8 (13 : 8 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p4 (9 : 4 : 4), k1.
Work 2 rows straight.

Decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58 : 61 : 64) stitches remain, keeping stitches at front edge in reverse stocking stitch as placed.

Work 1 row straight.

Next row: k11 (7 : 11 : 11), pattern to end.

Shape armhole as follows:
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p6 repeat from * to last 14 (10 : 14 : 14) stitches, Tw3 p10 (6 : 10 : 10), k1.

Keep armhole edge straight and continue to decrease 1 stitch at front edge on next and every following 4th row until 23 (24 : 25 : 27) stitches remain.

Note: When shaping at front edge do not continue panel pattern nearest this edge if there are insufficient stitches to work another complete pattern; instead take stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * k3, p 6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches, p3, k6 (2 : 6 : 6).
2nd row: k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern work a further 27 rows, thus ending after 1st pattern row, with right side facing for next row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch-holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of second pocket lining, pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12).
Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles, cast on 46 (48 : 50 : 52) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/ p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (7 : 7 : 6), {ml, rib 8 (5 : 4 : 5)} 4 (7 : 9 : 8) times, ml, rib to end. [51 (56 : 60 : 61) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, k3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.
Now continue in pattern as for back. Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row: k6 (4 : 6 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, p3, k6 (4 : 6 : 2).
2nd row: k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 12th (10th : 8th : 2nd), and then every following 4th row until there are 101 (108 : 114 : 121),stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.
Work straight until sleeve measures approximately 21 inches at centre, ending with 1st pattern row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.
Join shoulders, side and sleeve seams, leaving 2½ ( : 3 : 3), inches open at the top of sleeve seam; then insert the sleeves sewing rows left free at top along cast-off stitches on back and fronts at start of armholes.

Front Borders

Left: With No 11 needles, cast on 9 stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front and round to centre back of neck, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along. Cast off in rib.

Right: Work to correspond with left, with the addition of 7 buttonholes, first to come ½ inches up from lower edge, 7th at start of neck shaping and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left border with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end, then when knitting the next row back, cast on 3 over those cast off.

[Editor's note: If you are making an over-sized cardigan, you may wish to omit the buttonholes and just have the tie belt for closure.]

Pocket Tops

With right side facing and No 11 needles, k34 stitches from stitch holder, increasing 1 stitch in centre. [35 sts]
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib as for borders.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly on right side and pocket linings lightly on wrong side.

Belt

With No 11 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 52 (54 : 56 : 58) inches in rib as for front borders. Cast off evenly in rib.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

11 (12 : 12 : 13) x 50 gram balls Double Knitting in "Heather"

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

2 stitch-holders

7 buttons

Tension

27 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches; sleeve seam: 21 inches for all sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

Tw3: twist 3 sts by knitting 3rd stitch on left needle, then knit 2nd stitch, then knit 1st stitch and slip all 3 stitches off the needle together.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona. This was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 100 yards per 50g.

It is a slightly heavier weight DK so a worsted might make a good substitute. "Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2016

Blanket Coat

Coatigan1.jpg

....or "coatigan" *.
Shown on a chap but I would like it for me... and let's face it - he looks pretty silly - even for 1976 as I remember it....
It's a very simple knit being made up of rectangles in garter stitch - if I had a loom wide enough I would actually like to have a go at weaving the fabric - but here is the knitted version - plus a man's vest or slipover which is illustrated with it.

[* I believe I am not the only one who hates this word - I am not sure it adds anything much to the meaning but .... it is the jargon of the moment]

Coat Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The original coat was knitted in coloured stripes of garter stitch using a tweedy yarn. The basic design is very simple made up of block rectangles and can easily be knitted in a single colour if preferred.

Left Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 45 (47 : 49) stitches and work 5 rows in garter stitch.

Continue with double yarn and garter stitch and work 2 rows A; 6 rows C. Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, working in stripes as follows:
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C

These 42 rows form the striped pattern. Repeat them 4 times more, then rows 1-24 inclusive again. **

Continue in pattern but shaping neck as follows:
Next row: knit to the last 3 stitches, cast off 3.
Break yarn.

Rejoin yarn at neck edge and keeping side edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge the next 3 rows, then on the following 4 alternate rows, ending at side edge.

Shape shoulder as follows:
1st row: cast off 4 (5 : 6), knit to end
Work one row straight.
3rd row: cast off 5, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Work 1 row straight
5th row: cast off 5, knit to end.
Work 1 row
7th row: as 3rd row.

Now cast of 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 6) stitches.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Next row: Cast off 3, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with left front reversing shapings.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 95 (99 : 103) stitches. Continue with double yarn and work 5 rows in C; 2 rows A; 6 rows C.
Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, continue in garter stitch striped pattern as for left front.

Work straight until back measures same as front to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending with same row as left front.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, then 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 29 stitches.

Sleeves

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 105 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until sleeve measures 7 inches, ending with a 1st row.

Next row: k2 * k2tog, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k3. [90 sts]

Join in A and work in garter stitch striped pattern, as given for Left Front, repeating the 42 rows 3 times in all, and then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Cast off.

Right Border (for a man - left border for a woman)

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 15 stitches.

1st row (right side facing): k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until border fits up the front - when slightly stretched - to the start of the neck shaping, ending with a 2nd row.
Cast off in rib, and sew border in position.

Left Border (for a man - right border for a woman)

Work to correspond with right border, with the addition of 6 buttonholes, the first to come 6 inches up from the lower edge and the 6th to come ¾ inch below the start of the neck shaping and the rest spaced evenly in between.

First mark the positions of the buttons on the opposite border, and work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 6, cast off 3, rib to end. On the next row cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

Sew second border in position, taking care that the stripes are level with those on the opposite front.

Pockets (make 2)

With No 6 (5mm) needles and C, cast on 31 stitches and work in garter stitch stripes as follows:

5 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A

Break off B and A.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and join in an extra strand of C - using C yarn double, knit a further 5 rows.
Cast off knitwise.

Make a second pocket in the same way.

Collar

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 113 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows for 7 inches, ending with 2nd row, and cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.
Place a marker at side edges on back and fronts 9 inches down from shoulder seams, then sew cast-off edge of sleeves between markers.
Join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes and reversing seam for cuffs. Turn back 4 inch cuffs and catch in position on sleeve
seam.
Sew cast-on edge of collar to neck edge, starting and ending in centre of front borders.
Fold collar in half to right side and oversew double edges neatly.

Pin pockets on fronts, lower edge of pocket to come at start of 3rd broad stripe in C, 1¼ inches from side seam.
Sew pockets neatly in position taking care to match stripes with main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons

Materials

5 (5 : 6) 50g balls in colour A (beige); 4 (4 : 5) in B (pink); 8 (9 : 9) in C (olive) worsted or DK.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 38 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 34½ ins or 88 cm, all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

A word on the wool.

The original yarns was Patons Bracken Tweed which was a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The original yarn I remember from the 1960s was almost certainly 100% wool; however it seems a later incarnation was with 40% acrylic and it is likely that this pattern refers to that yarn. I can't offer any insights on yardage for either of these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Coatigan2.jpg


Coatigan6.jpg

Here is a version of the coat that I made. I have written copious notes about its construction in a blog entry "The Age of Aquarius"!


CoatiganSlipover.jpg

Slipover Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The slipover is worked in one colour.

Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 103 (107 : 113) stitches.

1st row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows for 4 inches, ending with a 2nd row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.

Next row (right side facing): knit 5 (7 : 4), k2tog, * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (8 : 5) stitches, knit to end. [87 (91 : 95) sts]

Continue in garter stitch and work straight until front measures 16 (16 : 16½) inches ending with right side facing.
**

Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69 (71 : 73) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Continue shaping armhole and shape neck as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k32 (33 : 34). Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 33 (34 : 35) stitches only for the first side, and work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 27 (28 : 29) stitches remain.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 4th row until 16 (17 : 18) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 25 (25 : 25½) inches, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 4 (4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4 (4 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **.
Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 67 (69 : 71) stitches remain, and then on every following 4th row until 61 (63 : 65) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front to shoulder at armhole edge.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:
Cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 4, k11 (11 : 12), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

1st row: k2tog, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast off 4, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 23 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press as for coat. Join right shoulder seam.

Neck Border:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left side of neck, k1 from safety pin, (mark this stitch), pick up and knit 53 stitches up right side, then 5 down shaped edge of back, k23 from spare needle, increasing 4 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 5 up left edge of back neck. [145 sts].

1st row (wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of centre marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of marked stitch, p2tog, k1, p2tog tbl, k1 ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more, and then 1st row again.
Cast off in rib decreasing at centre stitch as before.

Join left shoulder seam and border.

Armhole Borders:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 116 (118 : 120) stitches all round each armhole.
Work in 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.

Press seams.

Materials

Materials

6 (6 : 7) 50g balls in colour A (beige) worsted or double knitting.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 30 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 25 (25 : 25½) inches or 63 (63 : 65) cm.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2015

Midi Cardigan

MidiCardigan2.jpg

The trend for the winter is layers of knitwear, including long sleeveless cardigans, worn over knitted dresses, (which I would personally find too warm in this era of stifling central heating in most public spaces). However, there are other ways to wear it especially "between seasons" - and this is a nice example from the seventies, (but not too dissimilar to those around at the moment).

I have seen examples where front and back are split up the sides, which would give it a modern edge; this design is knitted "all in one" up to the armholes but if you are a more experienced knitter you could work out how to make fronts and backs separate up to about mid thigh.

Cardigan Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.
If you want to separate the backs and fronts up to mid thigh, you can do this and knit the first section of the pattern on each piece up to the start of the side shaping. If you do this, you might keep 2 or 3 edge stitches at the sides in garter or moss stitch until they are joined.
Join the pieces on the first "shape sides" row.
Note that you need to ensure the yarn you are using has a suitable drape for this style ie the knitted fabric is not too firm, and you will have to work out how to place the pattern stitches to keep continuity, when you join them.

Pocket linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work 5½ inches in stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p2, m1p, (p6, m1p) 5 times, p2. [40 sts]

Leave stitches on a spare needle and make second pocket lining the same.

Back and Fronts

With No 10 needles, cast on 290 (308 : 326 : 344) stitches and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 8 needles.
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k 10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): pl, * (Tw2L, pl) twice, p6, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k8, pl, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, pl) twice, p4, (p1, Tw2R) twice; p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1, * (k2, p1) twice, k6, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, kl.
5th row: p1, * p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice, k1 : repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: pl, * p3, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p. l, Tw2R) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p.l.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p3, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R., p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: k1, * k3, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
11th row:p1, * p. 3, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p3; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: p1, * p3, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 8th.
15th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 6th.
17th row: p1,* p1, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: as 4th.
19th row: p1,* (p1, Tw2R) twice, p6, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 2nd.
21st row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p6, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
22nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
23rd row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p10, k1, p2, k1,repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
24th row: as 22nd.

Repeat the last 24 rows twice more, then rows 1 to 22 inclusive again.

[Editor's note: If you have knitted fronts and back separate to this point, join them here - on the last or the following row.]

Shape sides as follows:

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2 tog, p6, p2tog, k1,p. 2, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1. [258 (274 : 290 : 306) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p4, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, k 1: repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1,* p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, pl) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p2, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.
10th row: as 8th.
11th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 6th.
13th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 4th.
15th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 2nd.
17th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1 ) twice, p4, (p1 Tw2L) twice; repeat
from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
19th row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 18th.

Repeat the last 20 rows once more, then rows 1 to 12 inclusive again.

Place pocket linings as follows:

Next row: pattern 17, * slip next 40 stitches on a stitch-holder, and in place of these, pattern across 40 stitches of one pocket lining *, pattern to last 57 stitches, repeat from * to *, pattern last 17 stitches.

Work a further 7 rows straight in pattern, then work rows 1 to 18 inclusive again.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, p4, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [226 (240 : 254 : 268) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

**
Continue in pattern as follows:
1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1, * k1, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p1, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, pl.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: pl, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: as 4th.
11th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 2nd.
13th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: p1,* k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 14th.
**

Repeat the last 16 rows once more, then rows 1 to 14 inclusive again.

Next row: as 15th.
Next row: as 14th.

The last 2 rows form bodice pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 35 inches at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck and at the same time divide for fronts as follows:

Next row: cast off 7, pattern 49 (52 : 56 : 59), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for RIGHT FRONT, shaping armhole and neck as follows:
Next row: cast off 8, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 29 (32 : 32 : 35) stitches remain, then at each end of next and every alternate row until, 19 (22 : 22 : 25) stitches remain.

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at armhole edge on following 1 (3 : 2 : 4) alternate rows. [18 (19 : 20 : 21) sts]

Work straight until front measures 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches at centre, ending with wrong side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; cast off 8, pattern 106 (114 : 120 : 128), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a
spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for BACK, shaping armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row, until 86 (94 : 96 : 104) stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row, until 74 (78 : 82 : 86) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Leave remaining 38 (40 : 42 : 44) stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches for LEFT FRONT, cast off 8, pattern to end.

Next row: cast off 7, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Front Borders:

Left: With No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k2, (p1, k 1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k 1) 5 times.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front to start of neck shaping when slightly stretched, ending with 2nd row.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin at top and sew border neatly in position.

Right: Work to correspond with left border with the addition of 12 buttonholes. 1st to come 7½ inches above lower edge, and 12th to come 2¼ inches below start of neck shaping, with the remainder
spaced evenly between. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end; on the next row, cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing and taking care not to over-press and spoil the pattern.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and knit 116 (128 : 128 : 140) stitches round each armhole and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join shoulder seams.

Neck Border: With right side facing and No10 needles, work as follows:
Rib 11 border stitches , pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 38 (40 : 42 : 44) from back decreasing 1 stitch in centre, pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) down left side, rib 11 from left border. [163 (173 : 175 : 185) sts]

Work 1 row k1/p1 rib as for border. Make 13th buttonhole in next 2 rows as before, then work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Tops:

With right side facing and No 10 needles, knit across each set of 40 pocket stitches, decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [39 sts]
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib as for border.
Cast off in rib.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

16 (17 : 19 : 20) 1oz balls in Tweed Grey double knitting yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

13 buttons.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in four sizes to fit chest: 32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches.
Length from top of shoulders 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

Tw2L: purl into back of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Tw2R: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona, which appeared in both 1oz and later 50g balls.It was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 104 yards per 50g.
Note that this pattern calls for 1oz balls (1oz is about 28g).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hat Instructions.

With No 10 needles, cast on 104 stitches, and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Next row: rib 1, m1p, * rib 2, m1p; repeat from * to last stitch, rib 1. [156 sts]

Change to No 8 needles.
1st row:
p1, * k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work 16 rows in pattern as for main part from ** to ** as given in cardigan instructions to make one diamond pattern panel (see photo).
Then repeat 1st and 2nd rows above, 7 times.

Shape crown as follows:
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [145 sts]

Keeping continuity of pattern, work 1 row straight.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch,
p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from last stitch, p1.
Work 1 .row straight. [123 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight. [101 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
[79 sts]
Work 1 row straight.

Change to stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and continue shaping as follows:

Next row: k3, k2tog, * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4 : 68 stitches Next row: purl.
Next row: k3, k2tog , * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches , k3.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, k2tog,* k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. [46 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k2; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from to end. [24 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [12 sts]

Break yarn. Thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly and fasten off.

Press work very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join centre back seam.
Press seam.

Materials

2 x 1 oz balls of double knitting yarn.

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size "to fit an average head".

Abbreviations

As given for cardigan above.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Cape Swings into Fashion

LinedCape.jpg

This is an earlier version of a knitted cape and includes a (knitted) lining - so potentially nice and warm. I thought it was a good option to publish alongside the seventies version.
The lining is knitted but if you did not want to commit to all that knitting I think it might be simple enough to cut out the shapes in fabric to create the lining - as long as you choose a material that's not too stiff or thick, although the cape as shown seems to be styled with quite a firm structure.
Of course you could easily knit the cape in a plain stitch instead of the pattern illustrated.

Instructions.

Instructions for only one medium size - could be adapted by using a thicker yarn and bigger needles - but do work out your tension to check the size.

Cape section (make 6)

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and D, cast on 80 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): in B k5, * with wool at back, slip 2 purlwise, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
2nd row: in B k1, * wool forward, slip 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: in D k3, * wool forward, sl 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
4th row: in D k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
5th row: in B k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: in B k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[Editor's note: the next 6 rows are repeats of the first 6 but reversing the colours.]

7th row: in D k5, *SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
8th row: in D k1, * SL 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: in B k3, * wool forward, SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
10th row: in B k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
11th row: in D k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
12th row: in D k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Repeat the 12 pattern rows 3 times more, then the first 6 rows again.

Keeping pattern correct and keeping a knit stitch at each end of every purl row, as before, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row, until 46 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 34 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 20 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.
Cast off in D.

Make 5 more sections in same way.

Lining section (make 6)

With No 10 (3½mm) needles cast on 70 stitches and work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next row: knit.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Place a marker at each end and in the centre of the last row.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch for a further 38 rows.
With wrong side facing, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until 40 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Make 5 more sections in the same way.

To Make Up

Use a large tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of wool for sewing,
taking care the wool remains twisted during making up.

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Using a fine back stitch seam (or mattress stitch), join 4 sections of the cape together at the side edges.

Now join one of the 2 remaining sections to one side of cape as follows (to make armhole slits at the front):
Join sides together for 4 inches from lower edge.
Leave the next 8 inches open for arm slits, then join remainder of side seam. Join remaining section to other side in the same way.

Join the lining in the same way, measuring the 4 inches up to the arm slits from the purl ridge.
Press seams.

Pin cape to lining, wrong sides together, lower edge of cape in line with markers on lining ; tack in position.
Sew hem of lining neatly to edge of cape, then catch lining to cape round arm slits.

Right Front Border: With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row: k6, SL 1, k6.
2nd row: purl.

Repeat these 2 rows until strip fits up right front edge when stretched, ending with right side facing.
Note: For a good fit band needs to be 3 inches shorter than edge of cape.

Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Left Front Border: Work as for right border, ending with wrong side facing.
Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Sew one edge of border in position to cape, from lower edge to 9 inches below neck, without stretching. Now ease the last 9 inches of the front edge on to the remainder of the band.
Fold the borders in half at the slipped stitch, and sew the other edge in position to the lining.

Neck Border: With right side of cape facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, k6 stitches of right border, pick up and knit 14 stitches from the top of each section, k6 border stitches. [96 sts]

Work 5 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Next row: purl.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 4 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.

Fold the neck border in half at the ridge, and slip-hem in position to the lining. Sew on fastenings as in photo.
Give cape a final light press.

Materials

22 x 1oz balls in DK yarn D (Ocean Deep ), and 9 balls in yarn B (Banff Brown).

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 8 (4mm) and 7 (4½mm) needles.

Clasp hooks to fasten.
[Editor's note: You can find a good selection at the Textile Garden]

Tension

The tension is given as 26sts and 42 rows to 4 inches over the pattern on No 7 needles.
[Editor's note: the pattern stitch alters the tension making it much tighter than a plain stitch, so if you plan to knit the cape plain you will need to carefully check the tension and needles size.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size sizes to fit chest: 34-38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders 27 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

sl 1 (or sl 2): slip 1 (or 2) stitches by passing the stitch from one needle to the other without knitting it.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Fiona - a slightly fluffy Shetland double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Wraparound Midi Cape

WraparoundCape.jpg

Capes being the thing of the moment (though maybe not quite like this one).
Styled "Edwardian" from the early 1970s - hence the floppy hat and slightly whimsical setting a la Laura Ashley - I might choose to make this somewhat shorter, plain rather than striped, and use a tweed or textured yarn of some sort.

So.... a midi cape - and if that were not wonderful enough... it comes with matching trousers! How great is that?!

Cape Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The cape is knitted in stripes of 3 different yarns - labelled Medium, Light and Dark - the Medium (or Main) colour is a bouclé and the Light (Red) and Dark (Brown) are smooth yarns.

Back

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 92 (98 : 104) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (3 : 6) m1, * rib 6 (7 : 7), m1 ; repeat from * to last 7 (4 : 7) stitches, rib 7 (4 : 7). [106 (112 : 118) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work in stripes as follows:

1st and 2nd rows: in D.
3rd to 6th rows:
in M.
7th and 8th rows: in L.
9th to 12th rows: in M.

These 12 rows form the striped pattern. [Note: Carry yarns loosely up side of work.]

Continue in pattern and work a further 12 rows straight.

Shape sides:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.
Repeat the last 12 rows until 70 (76 : 82) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 32 inches (81 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.
Place a marker at each end of last row.

Continue decreasing 2 stitches as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 38 (44 : 50) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30 : 32) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 46 (48 : 52) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 (3 : 3) m1, * rib 8 (7 : 9), m1 ; repeat from * to last 3 (3 : 4) stitches, rib 3 (3 : 4). [52 (55 : 58) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping side edge as follows:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to end.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 34 (37 : 40) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back to marker, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Now decrease 1 stitch as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Continue decreasing at the side edge on every 4th row from previous decrease, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 9 (13 : 16) stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the side edge as before, but on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time continue decreasing at neck edge on the next and following 1 (3 : 5) alternate rows. [5 (5 : 4) stitches remain].

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at side edge as before on following 2 (2 : 1) alternate rows. [3 sts]

Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, k2tog.
Next row: p2.
Next row:
k2tog.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'togtbl' when shaping side edge.

Side Panels (make 2)

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 80 (84 : 88) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 1 (3 : 5), m1, * rib 7, m1 ; repeat from * last 2 (4 : 6) stitches, rib 2 (4 : 6). [92 (96 : 100) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles, and stocking stitch, and starting with a knit row, work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping sides as follows:

Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2togtbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 56 (60 : 64) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until work matches back to markers, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Continue decreasing as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 28 (32 : 36) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 10 stitches remain all sizes.
Work 1 row straight.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Make a second side in the same way.

Left Front Border

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 9 sts.

1st rows (right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 4 times.

Repeat the last 2 rows until the strip fits up the left front to the start of the neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a safety-pin at the top and sew border in position.

Right Front Border

Work to correspond with the left border with the addition of 13 buttonholes. The first buttonhole is to come 4 inches (10 cm) up from the lower edge, and the 13th is 2 inches (5 cm) below the start of the neck shaping; the remainder are spaced evenly between.

First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.
Pin side panels to back; join panels up to markers matching stripes carefully, then join the remainder of the seam.

In the same way, join the front panels to side panels, leaving 9 inch (23 cm) slits for hands, bottom of slit to come 18½ inches (47 cm) up from the lower edge.
[Editor's note: If you are making a shorter cape you will need to work out where you need to put the slits for the arms.]

Right Slit Border:
With No 10 needles and M, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the front edge of the slit and work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Left slit border: work to correspond.

Neck Border:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and M, work as follows:

Rib 9 from right border, pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) stitches up right side of neck, k10 from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, 28 (30 : 32) stitches from back decreasing 3 stitches evenly, 10 stitches from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, then pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) down left side, and finally rib 9 from left border. [91 (95 : 99) stitches.

Work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows as before, then work 12 rows. Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows, then work 4 rows in rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Fold neck border in half to the wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position all round. Oversew loosely round double buttonhole.

Catch down short ends of slit borders neatly to main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

13 (13 : 14) 50g balls in a bouclé DK yarn M (Terrazo), and 3 (3 : 4) 50g balls each DK yarn D (Loam Brown) and yarn L (Red Earth).

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

14 buttons and 2 press studs

Tension

The tension is given as 20sts and 30 rows to 4 inches overall using the striped pattern on No 8 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 32-34 (34-38 : 40-42) inches or 81-86 (91-96 : 101-106) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 41½ (42 : 42½) inches or 105 (106 : 108) cm.

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarns were: Patons Totem - a standard double knitting using 4mm needles, and:
Patons Camelot (about which there is some misleading information on the web); it is a bouclé yarn knitted on 4mm needles with a stated tension of 19 sts to 4 inches - which makes it a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The pattern knits these yarns alternately in stripes and this overcomes their differences. In substituting I would look for any DK or worsted weight that I liked and experiment with needle sizes to get the stated tension.

I can't offer any insights on yardage for these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


WraparoundCape2.jpg

Trousers Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The trousers are worked in one colour.

Left Leg

**
With No 10 needles, cast on 86 (90 : 96 : 100 : 106 : 110) stitches, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 4 (6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 6), m1, * rib 11 (11 : 12 : 12 : 13 : 14), m1; repeat from * to last 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6) stitches, rib 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6). [94 (98 : 104 : 108 : 114 : 118) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until leg measures 25 (25 : 25½ : 25½ : 26 : 26) inches (63 (63 : 65 : 65 : 66 : 66) cm), ending with right side facing.

Shape leg as follows:

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 45 (47 : 50 : 52 : 55 : 57), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 47 (49 : 52 : 54 : 57 : 59), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 49 (51 : 54 : 56 : 59 : 61), m1, k1) twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 (100 : 106 : 110 : 116 : 120) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 74 (78 : 88 : 92 : 102 : 106) stitches remain; then on every following 6th row until 66 (70 : 76 : 80 : 86 : 90) stitches remain.
**

Work 1 row straight.

***

Shape back as follows:

1st row: k29, turn.
2nd row and every alternate row: purl to end.
3rd row: k24, turn.
5th row: k19, turn.
7th row: k14, turn.
9th row: k9, turn.
11th row: k4, turn.
13th row: knit across all stitches picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and working it together with the next stitch to avoid a hole.

Change to No. 10 needles and work 1 inch (2 cm) k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Right Leg

Work as for left leg from ** to **.
Then work from *** to end, reading 'p' for 'k' and 'k' for 'p'.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.

Joint front, back and inside leg seams.
Press seams.

Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew to the inside of the waist ribbing using herringbone-stitch over the over the elastic to form a casing.

Materials

10 (10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 12) 50g balls of bouclé double knitting yarn (colour Terrazo)

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist of Trousers.

Tension

19 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

The pattern is given in six sizes to fit hips:

34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches;
[86 (91 : 96 : 101 : 106 : 111) cm].
Length of inside leg seam:
28 (28 : 28½ : 28½ : 29 : 29) inches;
[71 (71 : 72 : 72 : 73 : 73) cm].

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2015

Classic School Pullover

ClassicSchoolPullover3.jpg

A classic sleeveless school pullover with instructions for 4ply fingering and double knitting.
[Illustrated on a rather serious classic school boy.]

Instructions:

The instructions are give for a 28 inch chest with 3 larger sizes in brackets.
Note that there are 2 sets of instructions given separately for a 4 ply and a Double Knitting version of the pullover.

Casting on

Cast on using cable method.
Using two needles make a loop and slip it on to left-hand needle (1 stitch made), insert needle through front of stitch, draw loop through and place on left-hand needle (2 stitches).
* Insert needle through space between the 2 stitches, yarn round, pull loop through and place on needle (3 stitches). Repeat from * until you have the required number of stitches


4 ply Pullover Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 98 [106; 112; 120] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 2 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [74; 80; 88] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6
[7; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

4 ply Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k43 [47; 50; 54] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.
Next row: Cast off 2 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 rows, and at the same time decrease. 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 16 [19; 21; 24] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.
With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

4 ply Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches up right side of neck, and 34 [36; 38; 40] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

4 ply Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 112 [120; 126; 132] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 10 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands.
Press seams.


Double Knitting Pullover Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 [90; 96; 102] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [72; 78; 84] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 58 [64; 70; 76] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then cast off 5 [7; 7; 7] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Double Knitting Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k36 [39; 42; 45] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the following 5 rows, then 1 stitch on the following 4 alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 15 [17; 19; 21] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue with armhole and neck shapings to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

Double Knitting Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches up right side of neck, and 28 [30; 32; 34] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

Double Knitting Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands. Press seams.

Materials

4 ply version: 5 [6; 7; 7] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

DK version: 7 [7; 8; 9] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

4 ply version:
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches

DK version:
24 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 26 [28; 30; 32] inches.
Length: 17½ [18½; 19½; 20½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometimes called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit/purl 2 slipped sts together through back loops).

p2togtbl: decrease by purling 2 sts together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The yarn in ounces.
A 50g ball of yarn is approximately 1¾ oz, or the other way around: 1oz is about 28g.

When substituting yarn, ideally you need to calculate using the yardage of the yarns - and with old patterns this is usually impossible, as the yardage is not given. So you need to be aware that in some cases, where the old yarn was synthetic or had a very good yardage, you may find that you use as much as one 50g ball for every 1 oz ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2015

Beach swim set

SwimSet.jpg

I have a weakness for blue and white so I find this very appealing. I note that they emphasise the firmness of the diamond stitch - whether this is for modesty or keeping its shape one cannot be certain.
I am not altogether sure of the relevance of the props - basket of grapefruit (tropical beaches?), an apparently woolly scarf ("gosh it's chilly in this photo studio"?).

Instructions.

Strand unused wool loosely across back of work.
L signifies Light yarn and D is Dark yarn.

Pattern rows as follows:
1st row: Knit, * 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 7L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
2nd row: Purl, 3D, * 4L, 1D,1L, 1D,1L, 1D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3D.
4th row: 3L, * 3D, 3L, (1D, 1L) 6 times, 2L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * 3L, 3D, 4L, (1D, 1L) 5 times, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3L.
6th row: 3L, * 3D , 5L, (1D, 1L) 4 times, 4L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * 3D, 3L , 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
8th row: 3D, * 3L, 3D, 4L , 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
9th row: As 7th.
10th row: As 6th.
11th row: As 5th.
12th row: As 4th.
13th row: As 3rd.
14th row: As 2nd.
15th row: As 1st.
16th row: 3L, * 2L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to end
17th row: * 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3L.
18th row: 3L * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
19th row: * (1D, 1L) 4 times, 2L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
20th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
21st row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 1D, 1L, 1D.
22nd row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 3L, (3D, 3L) 3 times; 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
23rd row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, (3D, 3L) 3 times, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
24th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, (3L, 3D) 3 times, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
25th row: As 21st.
26th row: As 20th.
27th row: As 19th.
28th row: As 18th.
29th row: As 17th.
30th row: As 16th.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

[Editor's note: You can see how the pattern looks in the photo and on the chart but the chart is an adapted version specially designed to be used for the top.]

Trunks (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 107 stitches and work 24 rows k1, p1 rib.
Purl 1 row
Change to No 10 needles and pattern in stocking stitch.
At the same time shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 8th row, 8 times, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made. [123 sts]

Work straight to the end of the 14th row of the 3rd pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping legs by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 6 sts at the beginning of the following 14 rows. [23 sts remain and 3 complete patterns have been worked].

Work 6 rows straight in L on these 23 sts.
Cast off.

Trunks (back)

Work waist ribbing exactly as for front.
Then work back shaping thus:
Next row: Rib 64, turn; rib 21, turn; rib 31, turn; rib 41, turn; rib 51, turn; rib 61, turn; rib 71; turn; rib 81, turn; rib to end.
Rib back over all stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and pattern and finish exactly as front.

Top (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 101 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and increase for bust thus:
Next row: p32, purl twice into each of next 9 sts, p19, purl twice into each of the next 9 sts, p32. [119 sts]

Continue straight in pattern, working from chart, and reading knit rows from right to left, purl rows from left to right. Your first 2 rows will read:
1st row: Knit, A to B, then (B to C) 4 times, then C to D.
2nd row: Purl, D to C, then (C to B) 4 times, then B to A.

Continue thus until 26th row of chart has been worked.

SwimSet.jpg

With right side facing, continue working chart, and at the same time shaping top by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 2, pattern 48, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first half of work, decreasing 1 stitch at centre
front on every row and casting off 2 sts at side edge at the beginning of every knit row until the 39th row of the chart has been worked and 24 sts remain.

Change to No 12 needles and continue in l.. wool only, casting off 3 sts
at the beginning of every row until all stitches are gone.

With right side facing join wool to remaining stitches at centre front; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first shoulder, reversing shapings.

Top (back)

Left Back:
With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 54 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and work 22 rows straight. With right side facing, shape back by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next 6 knit rows.

Right back: Work to correspond with left, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press all pieces well under a damp cloth.

TRUNKS: Join under-leg seam. With
L wool, right side facing, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 116 sts along each leg; work 1 inch k1, p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.
Join side seams.
Turn under 12 rows of the rib at the waist and hem to wrong side, leaving an opening for elastic.

TOP: With right side facing, L wool, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 54 sts along top of left back. Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off.
Work right back in the same way.

With right side facing, begin at left side of front and pick up and knit 45 sts to top of left point, 26 down to centre, 26 to top of right point and 45 sts down right side.
Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the top of each point on alternate rows.
Cast off.

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 9 sts and work 2 strips each 14 inches long in k1, p1 rib for ties. Sew in position, one at top
of each point.
Join side seams.
With right side facing and L wool, work 2 rows double crochet down each side of back opening, then a 3rd row down right
side, making 6 button loops.
Sew on buttons.
Press all seams.
Thread shirring elastic through ribbing round lower edge of top.

Materials

Patons Purple Heather Fingering
4 ply, 5 oz light shade and 3 oz dark shade.

A pair each Nos 10 (3¼mm), 12 (2¾mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.
No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

Six small buttons
Shirring elastic

Tension

34sts and 32 rows to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit 34 inch bust; 36 inch hips; length from waist to crutch, 13½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

1L or 1D: knit or purl in light or dark colour.

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

Patons Purple Heather was a standard 4 ply; however the stated tension seems rather tighter but may be taking account of the fair-isle pattern and stranding the wool across the back, which tends to make the work tight.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2015

Holiday Jumper!

HolidayJumper3.jpg

Very simple to knit, this open-air jumper, since the pattern is rib, broken by plain and purl rows at intervals. The attractive collar is just two triangular pieces knotted together at the centre front and centre back.

"A nicely casual affair with short sleeves and a scarf collar"

Instructions.

The overall pattern stitch as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit.
2nd row: k1, p1 rib
3rd row: k1, p1 rib
4th row: Purl
5th - 18th row: k1, p1 rib

[Editor's note: The ribbed stitch will have the effect of making the fabric pull in slightly.]

Back

With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 120 stitches. Work 1½ inches in k1, p1 rib, then start pattern as given above.
On the 5th row change to No 10 needles; on the 11th row change to No 9 needles.

After completing first pattern (18 rows), increase once at each end of
every 7th row 9 times, making 138 stitches on the needle.

Continue straight on these sts until you have completed the 6th pattern from commencement (work should measure about 13 inches).

Armhole shapings:
Decrease at the beginning and end of every alternate row for the next 16 rows (that is, 8 decreased each side); then decrease at the beginning and end of every row until 30 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front

With blue wool and No 12 needles, cast on 130 stitches.

Work exactly as for the back up to the armhole (148 stitches on the needles).
Cast off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease at each end of every alternate row 4 times (altogether 10 decreased each side).

Divide for neck-opening:

With right side facing, work 64, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continuing in the pattern on the 64 stitches, decrease at shoulder end on every row and at the same time at the neck end on every 3rd row until all are gone; fasten off.
Rejoin wool at the centre, and work the opposite shoulder side to correspond.

Sleeves

With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 72 stitches.

Work 1¼ inches in k1, p1 rib, then work in pattern, increasing at each end of every 3rd row, and during the first pattern changing to No 10 needles on the 5th row, and to No 9 needles on the 11th row.

When you have completed 2 whole patterns and 4 rows of the 3rd pattern (98 stitches on needle) shape for shoulder as follows:

Work in pattern to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches,
turn.
Continue thus, keeping continuity of pattern, until you have "turned" 8 times each end, each "turn" being 4 stitches before the previous one that side.
Work right to end of last row, knitting across the slipped stitches.

[Editor's note: You are working short rows here to provide shaping. When you slip the stitches and then pick them up again you can get small holes or discontinuities. You can live with these as part of the pattern (in this design they may well be hidden by the collar) or you can read more about short rows and wrapping stitches >>HERE<<.]

Cast off loosely 18 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every alternate row until 24 sts remain.
Cast off.

Work second sleeve in same way.

Collar

The collar is made up of two triangular pieces, knotted at the centre back and centre front.

Using blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 94 stitches.

Work 7 rows in k1, p1, rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row.

Changing to white wool, knit the next row plain, decreasing to 72 sts by knitting together every 4th and 5th stitches.

Continue in stocking stitch for 24 rows, decreasing on every alternate row at the opposite edge to the previous decreasings.
Purl next row.
This is the "ear" that is knotted in front.

Now start the edge that is stitched to the neck.
Cast off 10 stitches at shaped end, then decrease at this edge on every alternate row until 10 sts remain, keeping the other side straight.
Now decrease at same edge on every row until no sts remain.

With blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 108 stitches.
Work 7 rows in k1, p1 rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row; cast off.

Sew this blue strip along the straight edge of the white triangle, mitreing the decreased end carefully with the decreased end of the blue ribbing with which triangle was begun.

Repeat this triangle with colours reversed, and with shapings at opposite ends.

Making Up

Press only very lightly.
Sew up side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, taking care that the ridge rows of pattern meet at each shoulder seam.
Stitch each half of the collar half round the neck of jumper; knot the "ears" front and back, and stitch.

Materials

Beehive Fingering, 2 ply - original uses 4 oz in blue, and 1 oz in white.

One pair each No 12 (2¾mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

36 sts to 4 inches, measured over unstretched rib on No 9 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 32-34 inches; length 18½ inches;
sleeve seam, 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is given as "2 ply" which it probably literally was; however the tension is more like a 3 or 4 ply yarn weight.

I would substitute with a 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2015

Andy Pandy Romper

AndyPandyRomper.jpg

This is an adorable romper; the stripes are created by knitting garter stitch ridges sideways using contrast yarn. Pom-pom ties are used as fasteners at the shoulders.

After last months picture of the Andy Pandy puppet, how could I resist making this outfit.

Instructions

The romper is easy to knit, though - like exam questions - make sure you read the pattern and understand the pictures of the pieces clearly before you start.

Pattern stitches

Garter Stitch: every row knitted.
Stocking stitch: 1 row knit; 1 row purl.
Striped pattern: 4 rows in white in stocking stitch, 2 rows in blue in garter stitch (both rows knitted). Repeat these 6 rows to form the stripes.

Trouser legs

This section is worked sideways in one piece up to the armhole. Dotted lines in picture show the centre sides and the ankle borders.

Using 3mm needles and white yarn (A) , cast on 34 sts and knit 3 rows of striped pattern.

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [81 sts]

Continue in striped pattern, shaping waist by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 9th and every following 10th row until 77 sts remain.

Work straight until leg measures 23cm (9 inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editor's note: this is about 87 rows; 14 blue ridges ending on row 3 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [30 sts]

Work straight on these 30 sts for 2 cm (¾ inch) ending with wrong side facing.
[Editor's note: this is about 9 rows; 2 more blue ridges ending on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [77 sts]

Work straight until section measures 36 cms (14¼ inches) from the beginning, ending with right side facing.

Start shaping the waist again by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 10th row until there are 81 sts.
[Editor's note: From now on, you can judge where to start increasing and casting off by folding your piece at the centre and matching the stripes.]

Work straight until section measures 47 cms (18½ inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editor's note: this is finishing on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [34 sts]

Work 2 rows stocking stitch in white (A).
Cast off.

Ankle Borders

With 2½mm needles and white yarn A, knit up 70 sts along lower edge of leg.

Next row: K1; (k2tog) 34 times; k1. [36 sts]

Now work in garter stitch for 2 cm (¾ inch).
Cast off.

Left Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to end. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k2tog, psso, knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to end. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Repeat these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K3, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k2. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Right Back

Work as for Left front.

Right Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Rep these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k3. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, k3tog, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, k3tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Left Back

Work as for Right front.

Making Up

Join centre back seam and leg seams.

Placing left front over right front and right back over left back, sew bodice pieces to trousers.
[Editor's note: It's not altogether clear what is meant by "left" and "right" here - both in the instructions and in the making up. Convention says that it means from the point of view of the person (or baby) wearing it. However the pictures imply that it is as you are looking at the romper. It does not matter of course - do what you like best - but be consistent. ]

Make twisted cords and small pom-poms, and attach to shoulders for fastenings.
[Editor's note: You could use press studs here - the sort that you apply with a gripper tool - and add the pom-poms as the decoration (I actually sewed the shoulders together and adapted the leg opening - see below).]

Materials

2 x 50g ball yarn A (white),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (blue)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Tension

22sts x 38 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch pattern on 3mm needles.

Use smaller or larger needles to obtain the correct tension.

Size matters

Instructions given for age 3 months.

Chest 42 cms,
(17 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog/k3tog: knit 2 or 3 sts together.

yfwd, k2tog: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following 2 stitches together, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes an eyelet hole.

yrn, p2tog: yarn round needle - as yfwd but for purl stitches.

Sl 1: slip 1 stitch

Sl 1, k1/k2tog, psso: slip 1, knit 1/k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 or 2 sts).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard double knitting with good yardage of 126 yards (115 meters) - so you may need 3 balls of the main colour if substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

AndyPandyRomper2.jpg

Adapting the leg seams

I think it is very awkward to put a small baby into trousers in the conventional way. Many of these vintage baby patterns from the 1980s have leg openings which I think are much more practical, so I adapted this pattern. I chose buttons but you can apply press studs if you think that is safer.

Instead of sewing the inside leg seams I picked up 111 stitches all around each side and knitted a few rows in 3 x 3 rib, working as follows:
Row 1: K3, *P3, K3; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: P3, *K3, P3; repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat these last 2 rows once and cast off in rib

For the other side I inserted a button hole row:
Work rows 1 and 2 in rib as before.
Next (buttonhole) row: K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), K3, P3; (K1, yfwd, K2tog);* P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), K3, P3; (K1, yfwd, K2tog); repeat from * once, (6 buttonholes worked), then,
P3, (K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, (centre buttonhole worked), then,
(K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), * K3, P3, (K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog); repeat from * once, K3.

Work row 2 again, then row one, and cast off in rib.

April 2015

Ducks on Parade

DucksOnParade.jpg

A twin set with a duck motif for Easter. However, the biggest charmer here is in the photo. Not only is the girl cute and looking like she having a lovely day out, but we have a real star in the shape of an original Andy Pandy himself. Even if the cardigan set does not appeal, these are cute little duckling motifs and the charts could be used for cushions or as cross stitch patterns.

Instructions:

The individual ducklings are worked intarsia style, but main shade is stranded loosely across back of work when not in use.
Eyes and beaks of ducklings, and water are embroidered afterwards.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

Cardigan Back

Begin by winding 4 balls each of Lemon (L) and Gold (G) wool.
With No 12 needles and main shade (M) wool, cast on 100 sts and work 2 inches k1, p1 rib, increasing 3 sts evenly across on last row. [103 sts].

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 30 pattern rows from chart B, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.
Join in separate balls of L and G for each duckling.

When the 30 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in main shade (M) only until back measures 9 inches. Then with right side facing, begin to shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 83 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 14½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches.

Left Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [51 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 42 pattern rows from chart C, reading odd and even rows as on back and joining in a separate ball of G for each bird.
Remember that the mother duck is in white (W) and the duckling in Lemon (L) as before. The mother duck's beak is knitted in, rather than embroidered afterwards.

When the 42 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M only until front measures 7 inches.

Here shape front edge:
Next row (right side facing): Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Work 3 rows straight.

Continue thus, decreasing 1 stitch at front edge on the next and every following 4th row. Meanwhile, when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 5 knit rows, after which you keep the armhole edge straight.
Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row as before until 24 sts remain.

Work straight until front matches back.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Right Front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.
When working pattern from chart, read rows backwards, so that ducks will face each other at front edges, that is, read odd rows knit from left to right and even rows purl from right to left.
[Editor's Note: In the pdf file of the charts I have provided a copy of Chart C in reverse in case you find that easier to work from.]

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 52 sts and work 2 inches in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th row until there are 74 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 11½ inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 46 sts remain, and then at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front Borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With No. 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 9 sts and work a strip in k1, p1 rib, (rows on the right side having a k1 at each end), long enough to go up right front, round back of neck and down left
front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along, and make 5 buttonholes in right border, first to come about ¼ inch from lower edge, and the 5th at the beginning of the front slope with the remainder at equal intervals in between.
Mark the position of the buttons on the left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row casting on 2 over those cast off.

Jumper Front:

**
Begin by winding 3 balls each of G and L.
With No 12 needles and M, cast on 96 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 sts on last row [98 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Continue in stocking stitch and work 26 pattern rows from chart A, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right. Join in separate balls of and G and L wools for each duckling.

When the 26 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M until front measures 9 inches. Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following knit row until 80 sts
remain. **

Work straight until front measures 12½ inches. Then, with right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row (right side facing): K30, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 31 sts , decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 27 sts remain. Then decrease on every alternate row
until 24 sts remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 14 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).
With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches on the spare needle. Slip the centre 16 sts on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 32 sts, k2tog knit to end. [31 sts]

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Jumper Back

Work as for front from ** to ** . [80 sts]

Work straight over all stitches until back measures 11½ inches.
Here divide for back opening: -

Next row (right side facing): K42, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: K4, purl to end. NEXT Row:
Next row: Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to end.
Continue straight on these 42 sts, keeping 4 sts at centre back in garter stitch throughout and the remainder in stocking stitch
and at the same time make 3 buttonholes up opening (the 4th comes in neckband later) - first to come in next row and the remaining 2 at ¾ inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, knit to last 3 sts, wool forward, k2tog, k1.

When back measures same as front, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge); leave remaining 18 sts on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 38 sts, cast on 4 sts for underlap.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl to the last 4 sts, k4.

Finish to correspond with right shoulder, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 63 sts, and work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 71 sts.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve measures 2¾ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 47 sts remain, and then decrease at each end of every row until 19 sts
remain.

Cast off.

Jumper Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and M, pick up and knit 87 sts all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work inch k1/p1 rib, making 4th buttonhole after inch has been done and remembering to keep 4 sts at each end in garter stitch as before.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Embroider eyes with single brown detached chain stitch as indicated
on Chart; embroider beaks in gold slanting satin stitch shapes as indicated by lines on chart. Finally, indicate water round feet with a few straight stitches of varying lengths in white.

Cardigan: embroider eyes and beaks of ducklings as for jumper.
Sew on buttons.
Press all Seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:
8 oz Powder Blue (main shade).
½ oz ball in Lemon; small balls (less than ½ oz each) of 3 ply in Gold and White.
Scraps of brown for eyes.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Four small buttons for jersey and 5 larger ones for cardigan.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches on No 11 (3mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 25 ins; on cardigan, 26 ins;
length from top of shoulders: on jumper, 14 ins; on cardigan 14½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2¾ ins and 11½ inches.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. You can find some nice 3 plies available to meet the tension specified.
Just for the lemon colour used for the ducklings the specified yarn was Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora which would make a nice effect if you could find some suitable fluffy 3 or 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2015

Guernsey Socks

GuernseySocks5.jpg

One of my earliest POMs was for a "flag dishcloth" as I really like this traditional Guernsey pattern. These are 5ply socks which reflect this design on the upper part of the sock - the feet are knitted plain. This is a nice wool weight if you want a slightly thicker sock, and no need to be limited to navy or cream (nice though that is), as 5ply is generally available in a good range of colours.
It can also be a good way to use up left over 5 ply, especially if you bought the wool for a guernsey in large cones.

Instructions (work 2 alike).

Using No 11 needles, cast on 102sts.
Place 34sts on each of 3 needles and join in the round.
Place a stitch marker to show where the rounds start and finish.

First Round: * K2tog, k1, p2tog, p1. Repeat from * to end. [68 sts]

[Editor's note: Casting on 2 or 3 times the required stitches and then immediately decreasing on the first row provides a method of making sure you have a nice loose cast-on for the top of the sock. Otherwise chaps have a habit of yanking on their socks and right away breaking the first row of stitches, (ask me how I know...).]

Work 2 rounds in k2, p2 rib, then change to No 12 needles and work 8 more rounds in rib.

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round: Purl.
Next Round: Purl.

Change to No 11 needles and knit 1 round.

Flag Pattern

This pattern is worked down the leg as far as the ankle.

1st Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p2, k9; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * p3, k1, p5, k8, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p4, k7; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * p3, k1, p7, k6, repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p6, k5; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: * p3, k1, p9, k4, repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p8, k3; repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * p3, k1, p11, k2, repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p10, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * p3, k1, p13 repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 10 pattern rows 3 more times.
[Editor's note: You can, of course, repeat the 10 rows more times for a longer sock, but bear in mind you will need extra wool.]

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round (decrease): (p5, p2tog) to last 5 sts, p5. [59 sts]
Next Round (decrease): (k2tog, k18) twice; k2tog, k17. [56 sts].

Knit 3 rounds.

Divide for heel

Next Row: K14; turn.
1st Row: Slip 1; p27; turn.

Divide the remaining stitches on to two needles and leave to pick up later for the instep.

2nd Row: Slip 1; k27.
3rd Row: Slip 1; p27.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, 12 times more.

Turn Heel

Next Row: K18, slip 1, k1, psso (pass the slipped stitch over), turn.

Next Row: P9, p2tog, turn.
Next Row: K9, slip 1, k1, psso, turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all stitches are taken up and 10 sts remain, and (right side of work facing) knit across the 10 sts, then, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel.
Slip all instep sts on to one needle, and using 2nd needle knit across instep sts.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel, then knit 5 heel sts from the first needle, slipping them on the end of the 3rd needle to complete the round. [66 sts].

Shape instep:

Knit one round on all stitches.

Next round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 56 stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5½(6, 6½) inches, or desired length for foot.

Shape Toe:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

2nd round: Knit.
3rd round: Knit.

Repeat these 3 rounds until 28 sts remain.

Making Up

Knit stitches from 1st needle on to end of 3rd needle.
Graft or cast off the two sets of 14 sts together.

Materials

2 x 50g balls British Breeds Guersey 5ply

One set of 4 number 12 (2¾mm) needles, (or 2½mm if necessary), and,
one set of 4 number 11 (3mm) needles.

A stitch marker.

Tension

26sts and 32 rows to four inches on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit men's shoe sizes: 10 (10½, 11).

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: knit/purl 2 sts together.

SL 1: slip 1 stitch

SL 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

January 2015

Tweed Cardigan Coat

TweedCoat1.jpg

Wonderfully stylish mid-1950s tweed coat-style cardigan. I had to leave the background in the photo - indicating knitwear alla moda - and an exotic photo-shoot.

"Double-knitting and bouclet are worked together to produce this attractive tweed-knit fabric."

The style is simple enough to knit (all boxy shapes) and one feels could be adapted to larger sizes. However the real issue here will be choosing an appropriate yarn; the pattern indicates it is mostly knitted in a bouclé yarn knitted double and yet the resulting tension seems relatively fine (over the pattern stitch).

Instructions.

The DK is used singly throughout and the Bouclet is used double with either one ball of white together with one ball of black or two balls of black, as stated in the pattern instructions.

Back

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 142 sts fairly loosely and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in double boucle.
2nd row: Knit in double boucle.
3rd row: Join in DK.
* Slip 2 purlways, k3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: * Slip 2 purlways, p3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
5th row: As first row
6th row: As first row.
7th row: * k2 in DK, slip 3 purlways; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2 in DK.
8th row: * p2 DK; slip 3 purlways: repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2 DK.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ inches at centre. Place a coloured thread at each end of the row here to mark the start of the armholes as no actual shaping is done.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 24½ inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next 10 rows; cast off remainder.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet, cast on 32 sts and work about 2½, inches straight in pattern, ending with a row on the wrong side; leave sts on a spare needle. Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 82 sts and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with same pattern row as the pocket lining. Here start pocket opening.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts; (slip last 67 sts on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being); pattern across 32 sts of one of the pocket linings [47 sts]

Work 5½ inches straight in pattern on these 47 stitches, ending with a row on the right side of the work.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 32 fairly loosely and pattern to end; leave these 15 sts on a second spare needle or a needle holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining 67 sts.
Continue straight in pattern on these 67 sts for 5½ inches ending with same pattern row as the 15 sts on the spare needle.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts on spare needle, then on to the same needle pattern across the last 67 sts [82 sts]

Continue straight in pattern over all stitches until front matches back to
start of armholes. Thread a coloured marker as before. Continue straight in pattern until front measures 22 inches.
With wrong side facing, continue in pattern and shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next, and every following row, 32 times.

Then keep the neck edge straight, and at the same time, when front
matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge).

Right Front:

Work as for the left, reversing all shapings and making
5 buttonholes up the front edge. The first to come about 3 inches
from the lower edge, and the 5th about inch below front of neck shaping - the remainder evenly spaced between.
Mark the position of the buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, pattern 3, cast off 4, pattern to end.
On the next row pattern up to the cast off sts and cast on 4 over those cast off in previous row; pattern to end.

For the right front, your 1st row of the pocket shaping will read:

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 67 sts and slip on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being. With right side
facing, pattern across 32 sts of the remaining pocket lining, then pattern
across 15 sts from main work. [47 sts]

Finish to correspond with left front reversing the instructions in line with the above.

Sleeves:

With No 12 needles and double black bouclet, cast on 62 sts and work 1½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Break off 1 ball of black and join in 1 ball of white bouclet.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 136 sts , taking extra the extra sts into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 15½ inches.

Cast off right across fairly loosely.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, begin at right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 42 sts across back of neck, * turn and rib back, picking up and purling 4 sts from side of neck at end of row; turn and rib back, picking up and knitting 4 sts from
side of neck at end of row; repeat from * 6 times more. [98 sts]

Rib to end of row; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert sleeves neatly between markers.

Face both front edges on wrong side with ribbon, turning under 1 stitch of the knitting as you do so and taking care not to stretch the knitting. Cut holes in the ribbon to correspond with those in the knitting, then oversew around the holes with matching sewing cotton.

The original pattern intended for you to cover button moulds with rounds of single black bouclet in double crochet, drawing crochet
together at back of button. Otherwise use purchased buttons of an appropriate size.
Sew on buttons and press studs - one at neck, the other at lower edge.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, pick up and knit 26 sts down front piece of each pocket slit.
Cast off.
Catch down to main work at corners; catch down pocket linings.

Press all seams.

Materials

Double Knitting: 11 ozs in white;
Bouclet yarn: 13 ozs in black and 11 ozs white.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Five large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

2 press fasteners

11 yards 2 inch wide black ribbon.

Tension

24 stitches to 4 inches over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 35-37 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 25 inches; sleeve seam: 15½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The striking style of the coat is created using the yarn double with black and white together to create a tweed effect.
It is possible to get fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting. You could also substitute with a slightly fluffy yarn - Phildar and Pingouin used to do a slightly fuzzy 4 ply.

If you hate knitting double you might find a loopy tweed DK or worsted yarn which knits to the right tension. But you will need to find it in a solid version to match (because some parts of the pattern are knitted in black bouclet alone) - as well as the toning DK smooth yarn.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. The number of ounces of an obsolete yarn with no yardage provided is of little help.

Whatever you choose - knit a swatch!

TweedCoat2.jpg

December 2014

Old Shale Angel

OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg

A really pretty top using the ubiquitous but nonetheless charming old shale (or old shell) stitch. Originally it was knitted in fine white cotton bands interspersed with a fine slightly fluffy yarn, giving it a summery feel. However - how charming it would be in red and white for a small person's party outfit at Christmas. I am not sure how I would arrange the colours for a winter version - I favour the dominant red colour for the plain garter stitch - but it might be interesting to have the white as the fluffy bands simulating fur trimming.

The pattern is for an entire outfit with pants, and some cute little cotton sandals (of dubious value...!).

Below we have simply lovely photo from Sandy in Shellharbour, Australia, showing the complete outfit. She has added a of a little pair of bootees of her own design rather than the "sandals" supplied in the pattern.
Such a pretty colour!

SandysWork.jpg

Instructions for Angel Top

The angel top is worked in a combination garter stitch (every row knitted) and a Wave pattern using "old shale" (or shell) stitch.

When working the Wave pattern, carry the yarn not in use loosely up the side of the work.

Angel Top - main section

This section is worked in one piece up to the armhole.

Using 3mm needles and pink yarn (A) , cast on 192 sts and knit one row.

Continuing with yarn A begin Wave pattern as follows:

1st row (right side) : Knit.
2nd - 4th rows: Knit

Join in white yarn (B), working 5th - 14th rows in white:

5th row: Sl 1; * (k2tog) 3 times; (k1, yfwd) 6 times; k1; (k2tog) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
6th row:
Purl.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: Purl.
9th - 14th rows: Repeat rows 5-8 once, then rows 5 and 6 again.

These 14 rows form the pattern,

Repeat the pattern 3 (4) times more, then work the 1st to 3rd rows again.

Divide for armhole:

Next row (wrong side): K57, increase in the next 2 sts, k74, increase in the next st, and leave these 137 sts on a stitch holder; increase in the next st, knit to end.

Continue on these remaining 59 sts to make the Left Back. Work rows 5-14, break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K6; (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2) 7 times, k4. [45 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 24 (27½) cm, or 9½ (10¾) inches, ending with a right side row.

Cast off, placing a marker for the collar on the 26th stitch from the end.

With right side facing, rejoin white yarn B to sts on stitch holder and pattern 78 (as 5th row of Wave pattern); turn and leave remaining sts on stitch holder.

Continue in pattern on these 78 sts for Front and work rows 6-14.
Break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K4; (k2tog, k2) 18 times, k2. [60 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 20 (23½) cm, or 7¾ () inches, ending with a right side row.

Shape Neck:

Next row (wrong side): K27 and leave on a stitch holder; cast off 6 sts; knit to end.

Continue on remaining 27 sts for first side:

1st and every alternate row: Knit

2nd row (wrong side): cast off 3 sts, knit to end.
4th row: cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row:
cast off 1 st, knit to end.
8th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.
10th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.

Work a few rows on remaining 19 sts until Front matches Left Back to shoulder.
Cast off.


With right side facing, rejoin yarn A to 27 sts of front left on stitch holder and k27.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shaping.

With right side facing, rejoin white to 59 sts on stitch holder and pattern 59 (as 5th row of Wave pattern).
Finish Right Back to correspond with Left Back, reversing placing of marker for Collar.

Angel Top - sleeves

With 2½mm needles and yarn A, cast on 30 sts and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (wrong side): K1, (ml, k1) 29 times. [59 sts]

Change to 3mm needles, join in white yarn B and beginning with 5th row of the Wave pattern, work in pattern until sleeve measures approximately 11 (14½) cm, or 4¼ () inches, ending with a 14th pattern row.

Break off yarn B and continue in yarn A only.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a stitch holder.

Angel Top - collar

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 120 sts and work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn A, and join in yarn B.

1st row: Sl 1 , * k1, yfwd, k4, k2tog, sl 1, k1, psso, K4, yfwd; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: purl.

Rep these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: Sl 1 , * k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. [93 sts]
Cast off.

Angel Top - neck band

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 60 sts and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Making Up the Angel Top

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams.
Join sleeves to main part, unpicking contrast yarn and working stitch by stitch in back stitch on right side.
Sew Collar into neck opening, starting and ending at back markers.
Sew Neck Border over Collar, joining to Main Part in same way as the sleeves.
Make 2 buttonhole loops at Left Back and sew buttons on Right Back to correspond.

Materials

1 x 50g ball yarn A (pink),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (white)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Stitch holders.

2 buttons.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Yarn A: 25sts x 38 rows and yarn B: 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn A was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Yarn B was their 100% cotton "Perlé 5" yarn with a yardage of 219 yards (200 meters). I used a substitute Twilleys thread for this.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelOutfit.jpg


Instructions for Pants

The pants are worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted) in one piece, starting at the front waist, working down to the crotch, and then up the back, ending at the back waist.

Begin at front and with 2½mm needles cast on 48(56) sts and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 3mm needles and work 8(10) cms 3¼() inches in garter stitch, noting that 1st row you knitted is the right side, and ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for leg openings:

Next row: Knit 13(17) and leave on a stitch holder; k22, turn, and leave remaining 13 (17) sts on a stitch holder.

Continue on these centre 22 sts and work 9(10) cms 3½() inches in garter stitch,ending with a right side row.
Break yarn and leave 22 sts on a stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on first stitch holder and knit to end.
Continue on these 13(17) sts for left side of pants and work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a wrong side row.

** Begin shaping side by decreasing 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 6th(4th) row.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 4th row 2(1) times. [8(13) sts]
Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 1(2) alternate rows. [6(10) sts]
Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next and following 0(1) alternate rows. [4(6) sts]
Break yarn and leave these sts on a stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on 2nd stitch holder and knit to end. [13(17) sts]
Work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a right side row.

Shape Front Sides

Working right side of pants as left side from ** until 6(8) sts remain, ending at side edge.

Continue shaping sides and join all 3 parts to close leg openings:

Next row (wrong side): cast off 2 sts, k4(6) (including st left on needle after cast-off), k22 from centre, then k4(6) from left side. [30(34) sts]
Continue working across all stitches:

Next 2 rows: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 2 rows: Cast off 2(3) sts, knit to end
Next 2 rows: Cast Off 3(4) sts, knit to end.
Work 2 rows on remaining 16 sts.

Shape Back

2nd SIZE
Next 2 rows: Cast on 4 sts, knit to end.

BOTH SIZES
Next 2 rows: Cast on 3 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 rows: Cast on 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 (8) rows: Cast on 1 st, knit to end.
Work 3 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row 2 times. [46(56) sts]

1st SIZE
Work 5 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of the next row. [48 sts ]

BOTH SIZES
Continue straight until Back matches Front to start of rib.
Change to 2½mm needles and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pants

Leg Borders: With right side facing and using set of 4 needles, knit up 46(51) sts round each leg opening and work in rounds.

1st round: Purl
2nd round: Knit
Rep these 2 rows twice more.
Cast off loosely purlways.

Join side seams.

Materials

Pants: 1x 50g ball [suggested to be 257 yards / (235 meters]

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.
Set of 4, 2½mm (UK 12) needles with points at both ends.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

25sts x 38 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn used for the Pants was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelSandals.jpg

Instructions for Sandals

With 2mm hook make 20 chain foundation row.

SOLE

1st round: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 17ch, 3 dc in next ch, then back along other side of foundation: 1 ch: 1 dc in each of next 18 ch, 3 dc in next ch, sl st to join.

Work 2 more rounds, working 3 dc in stitch at each end of sole as before.

4th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 3 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice; sl st to join.

5th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 5 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts) twice; sl st to join. [66 sts]

Work 1 round dc on these 66 sts to complete sole and fasten off.

With right side facing, mark 33 sts round one end of sole and work back of sandal working back and forth in rows:

1st row: Rejoin yarn. 3 ch; miss 1 st; 1 tr in next st; (1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr in next st) 15 times, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch and tr on previous row. [33 sts]
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: 2 ch, 1 tr in each ch and tr on previous row.
5th row: As 1st row.
6th row: Without turning, work in crab stitch back across the row.

Fasten Off.

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right (assuming you are right handed and normally crochet from left to right). It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

TOE

Make 18 ch.
Foundation Row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end.
Mark centre st.
2nd row: work a row of dc, working 3 dc in centre stitch.
3rd row: work a row of dc, working 5 dc in centre stitch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along shaped edge.
Fasten off.

STRAPS for TOP of SANDAL

Make 26 ch and work Foundation Row as for Toe. [25 sts]

2nd and 3rd rows: 1 ch, 1 dc in each stitch to end.
Break yarn.

Miss 11 sts and rejoin yarn to next stitch 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches. [3 sts]

Work 3cms (1¼ inches) in dc on these 3 sts, then continue in crab stitch round all edges, making a buttonhole at each side of 3 dc strip,
and as close as possible to the tip.

To Make a Buttonhole

2 ch, miss 2 rows, 1 dc in next row.

ANKLE STRAP

Make 17 ch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along both sides.

TO MAKE UP

Sew Toe and Sandal Straps in place on sole, (see photo).
Join Ankle Strap to top of Sandal Back; pass through buttonholes worked on each side of the 3 dc strap.
Work buttonhole loop at end of Ankle Strap, and sew button to Sandal to correspond.
Work a row of crab stitch round outer edge of Sole.


Make a second sandal and reverse position of Ankle Strap and button.

Materials

1 ball cotton 3 ply - possible yardage: 219 yards (200 meters).

2mm crochet hook.

2 small buttons

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Equivalent tension of 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Phildar 100% cotton "Perlé 5" with a suggested yardage of 219 yards (200 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Notes on English Crochet Stitches

Double crochet:
draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble*:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble*:
pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble*:
pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

* not used in this pattern.


Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch - a picture painting a thousand words and so on.

November 2014

Poncho Capes - striped or plain...

PonchoCape1.jpg

Ponchos are being cited as a trend at the moment - and also apparently: fringes. So here you have the perfect combination. From the 1970s (of course) this is a rather good plain shape and very simple to knit all in garter stitch - if you like that kind of thing, or yearn to recreate a piece of history.

"See how cool I am with my striped poncho in natural earth tones..."
"Look! What's that over there?"
"Whatever you say, I'm not looking - you are merely trying to compensate for your lack of cool stripeyness."

Instructions.

Instructions given for striped version with pattern rows as follows:

1st - 16th rows: knit in main shade.
17th - 20th rows: knit in contrast.

These 20 rows form the stripe pattern.

The plain version is worked in exactly the same way but using only one colour.

Back and Front (alike)

(Worked sideways, starting at left side for Back and right side for Front).

With No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 58 stitches and joining in contrast (C) as required, work in garter stitch (every row knit) and stripe pattern throughout, starting with 2nd pattern row, shaping as follows:

1st and following alternate rows (wrong side): Knit.
2nd row: Cast on 5 stitches; knit these 5 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: As second row.
6th row: As second row.
8th row: Cast on 4 stitches; knit these 4 stitches, knit to end.
10th row: As 8th row.
12th row: As 8th row.
14th row: Cast on 3 stitches; knit these 3 stitches, knit to end.
16th row: Cast on 2 stitches; knit these 2 stitches, knit to end.
17th row: Knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, and at the same edge on every row until there are 106 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row, until there are 112 stitches.

Work 3 rows.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every 4th row, until there are 117 stitches, then at the beginning of every following 6th row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 113 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 108 stitches remain.

Work 34 rows.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 113 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every 6th row until 116 stitches remain, then at the end of every following 4th row until 111 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 106 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 90 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Work 1 row.

Now cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows.

Cast off the remaining 58 stitches.


Borders and Making Up

Do not press.

Back Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 needles and contrast colour, knit up 45 stitches all round the neck.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Front Neck Border:
Work as for Back Neck Border.

Using a flat seam, join shoulder seams leaving 3 inches open at each side of the neck.

Back shoulder opening borders:
With right side facing, No 3½mm hook and contrast colour, work 2 rows double crochet (American single crochet) along back shoulder openings.
Fasten off.

Front shoulder opening borders:
Work as for Back shoulder opening borders with the addition of 3 button loops evenly spaced on 2nd row.

To make a button loop: 3 chain, miss 2 dc, dc into next dc.

Neatly catch down the base of the borders, front over back.

Cut remaining yarn into 10 inch lengths and taking 4 strands together each time, knot all round outer edge, matching main shade to main shade and contrast to contrast, (as in the photo), to form a fringe.
Trim fringes.

Sew two sets of buttons in position as in photograph (1 button on back, the other to correspond on front).
[Editor's Note: I think the addition of the button to make a kind of sleeve is a good design feature - or would be if it were functional; however this version has a sleeve button that seems to be purely decorative, so I might choose to omit it altogether - thus saving on the investment in 4 extra buttons!]

Sew remaining 6 buttons on shoulders to correspond with button loops.

Press seams.

Materials

Pure wool striped version in superwash double knitting 15 x 50g balls in main shade; 4 in contrast;
Pure wool plain version in tweed double knitting: 19 x 50g balls.

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One 3½mm crochet hook.

10 buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4 mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is written to fit bust: 32-38 inches; length from top of shoulders (excluding fringe) 25 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2014

Honeycomb Cardigan

HoneycombCardiganC.jpg

I am very keen on this clever slip stitch method of making a honeycomb pattern. This cardigan is from the 1980s knitted in a bouclé chunky yarn. I thought it makes a good option if (as I do) you love a design in the latest Rowan magazine (56), but want something quicker and easier to knit. I have mocked up a colour scheme to show what it might look like, using 2 contrast spots instead of 6, making the sleeves plain and adding coloured bands; you could also make bracelet length sleeves (also a favourite of mine) but maybe less appropriate in a chunky weight cardigan.

One benefit of the design as it stands is that you could potentially use up left over yarn in the contrast spots - you could even have every set of spotted rows a different colour for a fun design.

Instructions.

The pattern is given in 3 sizes; the smallest size first and the 2nd and third sizes in brackets. Where only one number is given it applies to all 3 sizes.

Back

With Main (M) wool and No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 56 stitches. Work in k1/p1 rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (8, 0), * increase in the next stitch, rib 3 (3, 4); repeat from * to last 0 (0, 4) stitches. For 3rd size increase in next stitch rib 3. [69 (73, 77) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row. Now work in pattern thus:

1st row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
4th row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
5th row: with M, knit.
6th row: with M, purl.

7th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
8th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
9th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
10th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
11th and 12th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

13th to 16th rows - with 3rd contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
17th and 18th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

19th to 22nd rows - with 4th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
23rd and 24th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

25th to 28th rows - with 5th contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
29th and 30th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

31st to 34th rows - with 6th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
35th and 36th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

These 36 rows form the pattern, and are repeated throughout.

Note: you can carry yarns not in use loosely up the side of the work to avoid too many joins.

Continue until work measures 37 cm, 14½ inches, from beginning, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Armholes:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row until 53 (57, 61) stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 58 (59, 60) cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 4 (6, 5) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Slip remaining 25 (25, 27) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Left front

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 27 (31, 31) stitches. Work in k1/p1
rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, beginning alternate rows with p1, and finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: * Rib 3 (4, 4), increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 3 (1, 1) stitches; rib 3 (1, 1). [33 (37, 37) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.

Continue in pattern as for back and work straight until front is same length as back to armhole, finishing at side edge, with same patt row.

Shape Armhole:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge of the next 4 alternate rows. [25 (29, 29) sts]
Continue without further shaping until work measures 54cm, 21¼ inches, finishing at front edge.

Shape Neck:
Cast off 3 (4, 4) stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge on every row until 14 (16, 17) stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work is same length as back to shoulder, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row and the following alternate row. [4 (6, 5) sts]

Work one row.
Cast off

Right front

Work as for left front, reversing shaping.

Sleeves (both alike)

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 32 stitches.

Work in

Next row: Work in rib, increasing in every 6th stitch. [37 sts]

Change to 6mm needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.
Work as for the 19th to 36th rows of the back, at the same time increasing one stitch at each end of the 7th row and every following
8th row.

Then beginning with the 1st pattern row, continue in main pattern as for the back, still increasing on every 8th row until there are 53 stitches, working new stitches into the pattern as soon as possible.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 45cm, 17½ inches, finishing with the same pattern row as on the back at armhole shaping.

Shape Top:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of the next 8 (6, 6) rows. Then, decrease one stitch at each end of every 4th row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Do not press.
[Editor's note: That is an instruction for the boucle yarn as well as the pattern. For smooth yarns you can press lightly with a damp cloth.]
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.

Neckband:

With 4mm needles and M, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches up right neck, knit across stitches from back increasing 2 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches down left neck. [71 (73, 75) sts]
Work in k1 /p1 rib for 9 rows, beginning alternate rows with p1.
Cast off in rib.

Buttonband:

With 4 mm needles and M, cast on 7 stitches. Work in rib as for neckband until band is long enough, when slightly stretched, to fit up left front. Cast off in rib.

Mark positions for 8 buttons, the first and last to come about 1cm,
½ inch, from cast-on and cast-off edges, with the rest evenly spaced
between.

Buttonhole band:

Work as for buttonband, making buttonholes to match marked positions by casting off 3 centre stitches in one row and casting on 3 stitches in next row.

Set in sleeves, gathering top edge slightly to fit into armholes.
Sew on front bands. Press seams lightly.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

7 (7, 8) 50g balls in main colour. and 2 50g balls in each of 6 Contrasts.
One pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 4 (6mm) knitting needles.

8 buttons.

Tension

14 stitches and 22 rows to 10 centi-
metres (4 inches) measured over
pattern. using 6 mm needles.

Size matters

To fit 86 (91, 97) centimetre,34 (36,
38) inch, bust.
Length, 58 (59, 60)
cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches.
Sleeve seam, 45cm 17½ inches.

A Word on the Wool

Sirdar Romano is a chunky bouclé yarn knitting to a tension of 14-16 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch - which is an average chunky weight. Check the yarn you substitute as chunky covers a fairly wide range of numbers, and adjust your needle size by knitting a swatch.
I have no information on yardage but from memory it was a light weight yarn thus may have had a good yardage - so you may need more than stated if using a different yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2014

Sun Jersey or Sun Top

SunJersey3a.jpg

By the sea in 1950 - a quick (ish) knit in fine yarn.
"This intriguing affair is knitted short for a sun top or as long as you like for a jumper.
For evening wear decorate the lattice ribs of the sun-ray yoke with sequins or beads.
"

Instructions.

These instructions are for a sun top - which is essentially a cropped top ending at the waist, and a "jersey" version which is slightly longer. In both versions the front and back are knitted separately in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl) and then joined to form a patterned yoke with intergral cap sleeve.

Sun Jersey Front

With No 11 needles cast on 112 stitches and work 16 rows in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping waist as follows:-
Next row: k2tog, k26, (k2tog) twice, k48, (k2tog) twice, k26, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k24, (k2tog) twice, k46, (k2tog) twice, k24, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k22, (k2tog) twice, k44, (k2tog) twice, k22, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k20, (k2tog) twice, k42, (k2tog) twice, k20, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row. [88 sts]
Purl one row.

Change to No 13 needles and work 1½ inches straight, ending with a purl row.

Change back to No 11 needles.

Next row: increase in 1st stitch, k27, increase in each of next 2 sts, k28, increase in each of next 2 sts, k27, increase in last stitch. [94 sts]
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 114 stitches.
Purl one row.

** With right side facing, divide for yoke as follows:-

Next row: k53; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 53 sts, working 3 more increasings at the side edge on every 6th row as before; then, keeping this edge straight, at the same time start to shape the yoke by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 7 purl rows, then 2 at beginning of following 4 purl rows.
[20 sts]

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row; then k2tog at this edge on next 6 knit rows, while at the same time continuing to shape the neck by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 purl rows and then p2tog at the beginning of the following 4 purl rows.

Fasten off.

Return to remaining stitches and slip centre 8 sts on a spare needle or safety pin.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 53 sts and work to correspond with first shoulder, reversing all shapings.

Sun Jersey Back

Work exactly as for front until there are 114 sts, then continue in stocking stitch, increasing at side edges on every 6th row as before until there are 118 sts.
Purl one row.

** With right side facing, divide for yoke as follows:-

Next row: k55; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 55 sts, working 1 more increase at side edge as before, then keep this edge straight, and at the same time shape yoke by casting off 4 sts. at beginning of next 5 purl rows. [36 sts]

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next row; then k2tog at this edge on next 7 knit rows, while at the same time continuing to shape the neck by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 10 purl rows.

Fasten off.

Return to remaining stitches and slip centre 8 sts on a spare needle or safety pin.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 55 sts and work to correspond with first back shoulder, reversing all shapings.

Yoke

Back: With No 11 needles, cast on 32 sts, then with right side facing, on to this needle, pick up and knit 40 sts down right side of back, k8 from spare needle, pick up and knit 41 sts up left back.
Turn. (wrong side now facing)
Cast on 32 sts.
Next row: Purl across 153 stitches.

Now work in pattern thus:-

1st row (right side facing): k3; * wfd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k6; repeat from * ending last repeat k3 instead of k6.
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit.
4th row: Purl.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Work 6 more rows.

Next row (decrease row on 3rd pattern row): k8, k2tog, * k7, k2tog; repeat from * to last 8 sts, k8. [137 sts]

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch in centre of each stocking stitch panel as laid out above on every following 8th row until 2 sts remain in each panel.
At the same time decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 15th and following 16th row, then keep shoulder edges straight [85 sts].

[Editor's note: This is one of those things that is easier to do with the knitting in front of you than to explain. Each decrease row reduces the number of sts by 16. So on the 7th row following your 4 initial pattern rows, you do your first set of decreases as above [137 sts]; your next decreases are on the 15th row where you also decrease one stitch at each end of the row as well as in the panels so this decreases 18 sts in the row [119 sts]; on the next 8th row you decrease 16 sts in the panels only [103 sts]; and finally on the next 8th row you decrease in the panels as well as each end - 18 sts [85 sts remain]. Note that you have to place your decreases in the stocking stitch panels by centering them by eye rather than counting.]

Now work straight until the yoke is 4 inches deep.
Change to No 13 needles and work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Castoff.

Front: With No. 11 needles, cast on 32 sts, then with right side facing, pick up and knit 54 sts. down left front, k8 from spare needle, pick up and knit 54 sts up right front.
Turn. (wrong side now facing)
Cast on 32 sts.
Next row: Purl across 180 stitches.

Finish exactly as for the back, but you will have 100 sts on needle at end of the decrease rows instead of 85.

[Editor's note: So - same sequence as on the back but this time each decrease row reduces the number of sts by 19. So on the 7th row following your 4 initial pattern rows, you do your first set of decreases using the same layout for the decrease row as given for the back [161 sts]; your next decreases are on the 15th row where you also decrease one stitch at each end of the row as well as in the panels so this decreases 21sts in the row [140 sts]; on the next 8th row you decrease 19 sts in the panels only [121 sts]; and finally on the next 8th row you decrease in the panels as well as each end - 21 sts - and voilà - 100 sts remain.]

Cropped Sun Top Front

With No 13 needles, cast on 102 sts and work 2½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and increase at each end of the 1st and every following 6th row until there are 114 sts.
Purl one row.

Now work as for Sun Jersey front from ** to end.

Cropped Sun Top Back

Work exactly as for front until there are 114 sts then continue in stocking stitch, increasing at side edges on every 6th row as before until there are 118 sts.
Purl one row.

Now work exactly as for the back of Sun Jersey from ** to end.

Cropped Sun Top Yoke

Work exactly as given for the Sun Jersey.

Making Up

Press pieces on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and shoulder seams.

Work a row of double crochet all round armholes and lower edge of the Jersey.
Thread shirring elastic through the ribbing of the Sun Top, and work double crochet round armholes.

Press seams.

Materials

6 ozs Patons Beehive Bouclet for sun jersey; 4 ozs for sun-top.

[Editor's note: When substituting with modern fibres you may need more than stated unless your chosen yarn has a particularly good yardage.]

One pair each
No 13 (2¼mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.
One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Shirring elastic for the sun top.

Tension

30sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

To fit 32-34 inch chest; length from top of shoulders, on jumper 19½ inches; on sun-top 13 inches.

Abbreviations

wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

The tension for this yarn implies it knits approximately as a 4 ply. Susan Crawford's Excelana 4 ply or Excelite 3ply yarn might work well here - or a fine cotton. Do check your tension with a swatch.

Using a slightly thicker yarn (I emphasis slightly) or a larger needle size might work well to increase the size range while still keeping the pattern in proportion. As usual do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this. An apparent slight move in tension from 30 sts to 28 sts for 4 inches potentially increases the chest size from 32-34 inches as stated in the pattern up to 36½ inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SunJersey2.jpg

June 2014

Snappy swim-suit

SnappySwimSuit.jpg

What every girl wants: sun.... sand.... and an oversized beach ball.
Continuing the red and white summer theme - the latest in swimwear for the 1930s.
[O - and did I mention? - it's very practical and fits marvellously, (provided you have a 33-34 inch bust), and we can all breathe easily as it has a REGULATION skirt].

"You couldn't find a swim-suit with more snap about it than this one! And it takes all the prizes on the practical side, too . . . . is simple to knit, fits marvellously and has the forethought to choose a stitch that doesn't stretch out of shape (bramble pattern, shown in detail on page 32, broken with bars of rib through which the belt is slotted). The suit is low at the back, and in front the shoulder straps slot through the amusing little striped revers to tie at the base of the neckline; it has, of course, the regulation skirt with brief, almost legless, trunks beneath."

Instructions.

These instructions are given in one size only for a sun-suit with skirt and integrated knickers.

Front

Start with the front of the KNICKERS.

With red wool, cast on 32 stitches. Work in stocking stitch, always knitting into backs of cast-on stitches. After the first row, cast on 3 stitches at the end of every row until there are 116 on the needle.
[Editor's note: I always love these vintage patterns that get straight into 3 figures in the opening paragraph.]

Continue on these for 4 inches, ending with a knit row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row till 104 stitches remain.
Continue on these until the side seam edge measures 9 inches, ending with a purl row. Leave these stitches on spare needle..

Now start at lower edge of SKIRT.

With red wool, cast on 104 stitches. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib, then work in pattern as follows:-

1st row (right side facing): (k1, p1) 3 times; p20, (k1, p1) 4 times; p36, (k1, p1) 4 times, p20, (k1, p1) 3 times.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 3 times;
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 5 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 9 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 5 times, (k1, p1) 3 times.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: (k1, p1) 3 times;
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, (k1, p1) 3 times.

These four rows form pattern.

Repeat until work measures 13 inches from lower edge, ending with the 4th row of pattern.

Now place needle containing the knicker stitches right side towards you, behind needle containing skirt stitches, and knit in pattern, as first row, knitting together 1 stitch from each needle.
Complete this pattern, then work 4 more patterns.
[Editor's note: This means continue with 19 pattern rows ending on a 4th row..]

Keeping the continuity of pattern, shape for waist by decreasing 1 stitch at each end, in side ribbing, in every 4th row, until 2 stitches remain in rib at edges (4 stitches decreased each side).

Work 4 more rows in pattern, then make belt slots as follows:-

Next row: k1, p1, p20. Turn.
Work in pattern on these 22 stitches for 8 rows, then leave on spare needle.
Join in wool and work in k1, p1, rib on the next 8 stitches for 9 rows. Put these stitches on the spare needle, (next to the 22 sts from before).
Work in pattern on the next 36 stitches for 9 rows. Put these stitches on the spare needle.
Work in k1, p1, rib on the next 8 stitches for 9 rows. Put on the spare needle.
Work in pattern on the remaining 22 stitches for 9 rows.
Work the next row in the pattern, working all the stitches on to one needle again.

Continue in pattern, increasing 1stitch at each end in the 2nd and every following 4th row until there are 104 stitches.**
Work in pattern on these for 3 inches, ending with 4th row of pattern.
Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, p1) 5 times, p16, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p16, rib 10.
2nd row: rib 10, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 4 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 4 times, rib 10.
3rd row: rib 14, p12, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p12, rib 14.
4th row: Rib 14, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 3 times, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 3 times, rib 14.
5th row: rib 18, p8, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p8, rib 18.
6th row: rib 18, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) twice, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) twice, rib 18.
7th row: rib 22, p4, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p4, rib 22.
8th row: rib 22, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 8, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 22.
9th row: rib 34, p36, rib 34.
10th row: rib 34, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 34.
11th row: rib 34, p36, rib 34.
12th row: rib 34, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 34.
13th row: rib 38, p28, rib 38.
14th row: rib 38, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 7 times, rib 38.
15th row: rib 42, p20, rib 42.
16th row: rib 42, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, rib 42.
17th row: rib 46, p12, rib 46.
18th row: rib 46, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 3 times, rib 46.
19th row: rib 50, p4, rib 50.
20th row: rib 50, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 50.

Now continue to work all across in rib, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 92 stitches remain.

Next row: k2tog, rib 44. Turn, and work on these stitches, leaving remaining 46 stitches on a spare needle.

Next row: k2tog, rib to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: k2tog, rib to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Rejoin in wool at centre and work the other side to match.

Back

Work exactly as for front to end of waist shaping,
[Editor's note: I have to say I am not clear exactly where this is but I assume it to be after the increases back to 104 stitches which seems to be the number of stitches worked on thereafter in shaping the low back. I have marked this position **.]
then work 4 inches in pattern.

Work right across in rib for 4 rows.

Now begin to shape low back.
Next row: rib 20, cast off 64 (tightly) rib 20.
[Editor's note: You now work the 20 stitches on each side of the cast-off separately.]

Next row: Rib to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: k2tog, rib to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until all stitches are cast off.
Join in wool at centre and work other side to match.

Revers

These are worked in stripes of 2rows red, 2 rows white.
Do not break off wool between stripes.

Start with LEFT REVER.

With red wool, cast on 26 stitches.

1st and 2nd rows: Knit (in red).
3rd row: Join in white wool, knit.
4th row: k2tog, knit to end.
5th row: pick up red, knit to end.
6th row: k2tog, knit to end.
7th row: pick up white, k2, cast off 8, knit to end.
8th row: k2tog, k12, cast on 8, k. 2.

9th row: pick up red, knit to end.
10th row: k2tog, knit to end.
11th row
: pick up white, knit to end.
12th row: k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat last 4 rows until 2 stitches remain.
Cast off.

For RIGHT REVER, work as follows:-

With red wool cast on 26 stitches.

1st and 2nd rows: Knit (in red).
3rd row: Join in white wool, knit.
4th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
5th row: pick up red, knit to end.
6th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
7th row: pick up white, knit to last 10 sts, cast off 8, k2.
8th row: k2, cast on 8, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

9th row: pick up red, knit to end.
10th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
11th row
: pick up white, knit to end.
12th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat last 4 rows until 2 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Belt

With white wool cast on 2 stitches. Work in k1, p1, rib, casting on 2 stitches at the end of every alternate row until there are 14 stitches on the needle. Work in rib on these stitches for 45 inches.
Shape end by casting off 2 stitches at beginning of every alternate row.

Shoulder straps (make 2)

With white wool cast on 2 stitches.
Work in k1, p1, rib, casting on 2 stitches at the end of every alternate row until there are 12 stitches on the needle. Continue on these stitches for 24 inches.
Cast off.
Make second piece to match.

To Make Up

Press all pieces well with damp cloth and hot iron.

Sew up side seams and knicker seams.
Work a row of double crochet round leg openings.

Place lower edge of slot in front trimming to top of the 10 cast off stitches at top of front. Sew along lower edge of this slot, then sew straight edge of trimming along edge of the V of front opening. Shaped edge of trimming is not fastened down.

Sew unshaped end of shoulder straps to back, draw through slot at front to required length, then stitch to the top of the slot and knot at bottom of V opening.

Draw belt through slots at waist and tie in bow, at back or front, as preferred.

Materials

13 ozs of "Diana" non-shrink 4ply [pictured costume uses 11ozs of Cavalcade red and 2 ozs white].
[Editor's note: When substituting with modern fibres you may need more than the quantities stated.
1 oz = 28 grams]

One pair No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

To fit 32-33 inch chest.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

p3tog: purl 3 sts together (decrease 2 stitches).

(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch): increases 2 stitches.

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

The Diana yarn is stated as a 4 ply with a tension consistent with that on a 3mm needle. [Not to be confused with Patons Diana brushed DK sold in the 1980s]

Internet search states a yardage of 209 but no ball weight given. 209 yards for a 1 oz ball would be quite high.

If you make this with a substitute yarn, perhaps a cotton would be nicest though cotton does tend to stretch, despite the reassurance that bramble stitch "doesn't stretch out of shape".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Close-up of bramble stitch and rib.

StitchDetail.jpg

May 2014

Pin-striped jumper

PinStripedJumper.jpg

"Cherry and white pin-stripes are used both up and down and across here. Wear this woolly as above, jumper fashion, or over a blouse."

I much admired this jumper some time ago but never got round to making it myself. However, here it is if you want to try it out. I think it would look nice in red and white as intended or with beige like This Attractive Affair **, knitted in Rowan's Cotton Glacé - but do read all the information about substituting the yarn before you decide how best to tackle this pattern!
In 2008 I made the Engaging Bouclé Top (also from the same 1935 feature). It worked out very well and I wear it quite often even now.

** This Attractive Affair is a 1930s pattern from A Stitch In Time Volume 2 by Susan Crawford and Jane Waller. You can purchase it at Susan's website or from Amazon.

Instructions.

The top and the lower part of the jumper are worked separately, and the ribbed welt added last of all. The pattern is twisted garter stitch, 2 rows red and 2 rows white, alternately.

For twisted garter stitch: knit every row plain, but work always into the backs of the stitches.

Back

Start with lower section, worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 10 stitches. Work as follows in the twisted garter stitch pattern explained above:

1st row: red.
2nd row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [20 sts]
3rd row: Change to white (do not break red wool) work to end.
4th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [30 sts]
5th row: red.
6th row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [40 sts]
7th row: white.
8th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [50 sts]
9th row: red.
10th row: red, cast on 14, work to end. [64 sts]

[Editor's note: This gradual addition of stitches makes waist shaping.]

Now continue in pattern on the 64 stitches on the needle till you have worked 41 red stripes at the casting-on end (the casting on at the beginning of 10th row will be the first of these stripes).

At the beginning of the second row of next red stripe, cast off 14, work to end. [50 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [40 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [30 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [20 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [10 sts]

Cast off remaining 10 stitches in red.

Next work Back Yoke. Hold right side of work towards you.
Using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 114 stitches along the top (wider) edge of lower back, starting at the 7th stripe, and finishing at the 7th stripe from the opposite end.
Working the first row in red, continue in pattern as before, working two rows white, then two rows red, knitting 2 together at each end of the first 8 rows, to shape the armholes.

Continue in pattern on the 98 stitches that remain till 55 red stripes have been completed.

Next row: white.
Next row: white, k32, cast off 3, k32.

Continue in pattern on on the latter 32 stitches for first shoulder.
Then with right side facing, cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row (that is: at the armhole edge) 3 times; cast off 8.

Join in red wool to the remaining 32 stitches at the neck-edge and work the other shoulder to correspond, beginning the casting off with the wrong side of the work facing.

Left front

As you did on the back, start with the lower section, which is worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 64 stitches (centre front edge). Work 2 rows red, 2 rows white, until you have completed the 23rd red stripe.
Cast off 14 at the waist end, work to end and back; cast off 10 at the beginning of the next and every alternate row 4 times; cast off 10.

[Editor's note: This gradual reduction of stitches makes waist shaping.]

For the yoke: with right side of work facing and using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 64 stitches along the top (wider) edge, starting at the 7th stripe.
Work back one row in red, then continuing the stripe sequence, two white, two red as before, k2tog at armhole edge in first 8 rows, then keep both edges straight till 4th white stripe from where stitches were knitted up has been completed.
K2tog at the neck edge in the next and every alternate row till 32 stitches remain.
Cast off 8 stitches from armhole edge 3 times, cast off 8.

Right front

Cast on and work lower section as for left front, but start the casting off at the beginning of the 2nd row in the 23rd red stripe, this bringing the shaping to opposite end of needle.

For the yoke: with the right side of work facing and using No 10 needles and red wool, knit up 64 stitches, finishing at the 7th stripe from under-arm edge. Work the yoke to correspond with left yoke, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and red wool, cast on 90 stitches.
Work in the pattern, straight, to the end of the 14th white stripe, then shape top by decreasing at each end of every row till 30 stitches remain; cast off.

White borders

For back waist ribbing:
Using No 13 needles and white wool, with right side facing, knit up 124 stitches across lower edge, and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib; cast off.

For each of the front waist ribbing:
Knit up 70 stitches across lower edge and rib to match the back.

For each cuff:
Using white wool and No 10 needles, cast on 16 stitches and work in twisted garter-stitch, all in white, until the cuff fits the edge of the sleeve.

The ribbed front border is worked all in one.
Using white wool and No 13 needles, cast on 18 stitches.
Work 8 rows in k1, p1 rib.

In the 9th row, start a buttonhole by working 6, casting off 6, working 6; in the next row finish it by casting on 6 to replace those cast off.

* Rib 16 rows, then make another buttonhole.
Repeat from * 6 times (8 buttonholes in all), then work straight until the border will reach round the neck and to the lower edge.

Making Up

Join side seams and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join each cuff into a ring, stitch round edge of sleeve and turn back.
Sew border neatly all round, overlapping edge of coat by about one stitch.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

Beehive Scotch Fingering 2 ply: 2 ozs in red, 3 ozs in white.

One pair each
No 13 (2¼mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

8 small square red buttons.

Tension

30sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 33 inches; length from top of shoulder: 18 inches; sleeve seam: 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

References on the web give Patons Beehive 2 ply Scotch Fingering a tension of 9 sts to the inch on 2mm needles and a yardage of 230 without a stated ball weight. This would equate more to a 3 ply weight yarn - but Patons did make this yarn in 2, 3 and 4 ply weights, so it is hard to make a judgement.

No clues much from the pattern either since the needle size used is larger than normal for this yarn and the stitches are twisted, making it tighter, and to cap it all - it's knitted sideways. The tension is stated without reference as to whether this is over stocking stitch or over the pattern.

I would substitute with a 3 or 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could instantly move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PinStripedJumper2.jpg

April 2014

Bunny suits

BunnySuits.jpg

Cute little sweaters with rabbit motifs. Also supplies a pattern for a skirt and little shorts.

"Small girls and boys will love these Bunny Rabbit sets. Hers has a cute flared skirt, and his, neat little trousers. We knitted them in vivid red and white for tough wear."

Instructions.

Instructions for one size given for jumper, cardigan, shorts, and skirt.

Jumper

Front

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 86 stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

[Editor's note: I used to work twisted rib a little differently to the one described here. I would knit into the back of the knit stitches on right side rows, and purl into the back of the purl stitches on wrong side rows. This leads to very rigidly defined columns of knit stitches on the right side. It looks very attractive but it is less elastic than normal ribbing. ]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) and, joining in contrast white (W), work the two clour pattern rows 1-4 as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.
**

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 4 rows stocking-stitch in R, starting with a knit row.
Before working the rabbit motifs, wind wool on to bobbins - 2 bobbins with W and 1 bobbin R. Join in a separate bobbin W for each rabbit and 1 R bobbin between.
Note: Twist wools on wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

[Editor's note: You might need a second bobbin of red here - if you read later on they suggest you work with 3 bobbins as above and two balls of red - it depends which you find easier..]

Continue in stocking-stitch working from chart over the centre 44 stitches, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.
Your first 2 rows will read :

1st row (right side facing): Knit 21 R.; work centre 44 stitches from chart thus: 4 R, join in W bobbin, 10 W, join in R bobbin, 16 R, join in 2nd bobbin W, 10W., join in a second ball R, 4 R; then knit remaining 21 R.
2nd row: Purl, 21 R; from chart 1R, 13W, 16R, 13W, 1R.; purl remaining 21R.
Continue in this way until 20th row of chart has been worked.
Break W.

With right side facing, continue in R over all stitches and work 4 rows stocking-stitch.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W and work the two-colour pattern rows 1-4 as before. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking-stitch in R, until front measures 8½ inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 11½ inches.

With right side facing, shape neck:

Next row: Knit 26; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 16 stitches remain. Work a few rows straight until front measures 13 ins.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the begining of the next row, then 5 stitches at the begining of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, slip the centre 14 stitches on to a spare needle.
Rejoin wool to remaining 26 stitches and finish to correspond with the first side.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 28 rows stocking-stitch in R, then change to No 0 (3¾mm) needles, and work two-colour rows 1-4 inclusive again. BreakW.
Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue straight in stocking-stitch in R until back matches front at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armholes as for front. [66 stitches]Work 2 rows straight.

With right side facing, divide for back opening.

Next row: Knit 33, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 33 stitches until back matches front at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Leave remaining 17 stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 44 stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W, and work two-colour pattern rows 1-4 inclusive again. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking- stitch in R, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 60 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 9 ins.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck border

Join shoulder seams.
Using the set of No 11 (3mm) needles - or a circular needle - to facilitate working and main wool (R) wool, start at left side of back opening and with right side facing, k17 from spare needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches down left side of front, k14 from spare needle at centre, pick up and k15 stitches up right side, k17 from spare needle. [78 sts].

Working backwards and forwards (not in the round), continue as follows:

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and two-colour pattern.

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 7 rows stocking stitch in R, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Fold neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Buttonhole Band
With No 11 (3mm) needles, R wool, and right side facing, pick up and knit 30 stitches down right side of back opening.
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: * k2, wool forward, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit.
Cast off loosely.
Work.a row of double crochet in R down left side of opening.
Catch down border neatly to main work at start of opening.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
With black wool embroider eye and nose of each rabbit as illustrated.
Press all seams and neck border lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Trousers

Right Half

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R), cast on 82 stitches loosely and work 12 rows stocking-stitch, starting with knit row.

Make a hem on the next row by folding the work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Next row: Purl.

With right side facing, shape back as follows using short row shaping:

Next 2 rows: K10, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K20, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K30, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K40, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K50, turn and purl back,
Next 2 rows: K60, turn and purl back.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and continue in stocking-stitch over all stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until there are 94 stitches.

Work straight until front seam (short edge) measures 8 ins.

With right side facing, shape leg by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 9 rows stocking-stitch. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Left Half

Work as for right half, reversing back shaping, i.e. having wrong instead of right side facing. Your first two rows will read :-
Purl 10, turn and knit back.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join back, front and leg seams, leaving waist hem open on back for elastic.
Turn back last 7 rows round each leg to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position.
Press all seams and hems lightly.
Thread elastic through waist and sew up opening neatly.

Skirt

Back and front alike

With No 11 (3mm) needles and R wool, cast on 154 stitches loosely, and work 6 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next 2 rows: Purl.
The last 2 rows form ridge for hemline.

Change to No 10 (3¼) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Make a hem on next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 st. from cast-on edge all along.

Next row: Purl, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [155 sts]

With right side facing, shape as follows:

Next row (1st decrease row): K14, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k28) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k14. [145 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Next row (2nd decrease row): K13, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k26) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k13. [135 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 10 stitches thus on next and every following 12th row until 6th decrease row has been worked, and 95 stitches remain.
Work 11 rows straight.

Now shape skirt by decreasing 10 stitches as before but on on next and following 6th row [75 sts].
Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 9½ inches down centre.
Next row (wrong side facing): P2tog, purl to end. [74 sts]

Change to k1/p1 rib and work 1 inch, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing at waistband.
Join side seams. Cut elastic to fit waist and join. Then sew in position inside waist ribbing using herring bone stitch for casing.
Press seams.

Materials

8ozs 4ply in Lipstick Red and 1oz in Snow White for either set.

Pair each No 11 (3mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Set of 4 each No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

5 buttons

Length of ½-inch wide elastic to fit waist.

Small amount of black wool to embroider eyes and nose on motifs.

Bobbins for two-colour pattern. (For example EZ Bobs or make your own - instructions below)

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¼mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.
Jumper: To fit 23- 24 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 13 inches; sleeve seam 9 inches.
Shorts
: width round widest part, 27 inches; length of front seam 8 inches.
Skirt
: length, 10% inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Bunny Motif Chart


To Make a Bobbin

Cut shape from stiff cardboard as in the diagram above, 2.5 inches deep and 2.6 inches wide. Cut out the hole and cut a slit in the top. Wind the wool on to the bobbin as shown in the diagram on the right, and pass through the slit as many times as required.

March 2014

Poncho Cape Sweater

BobbleCape1.jpg

Maybe sad to say, I am very smitten with the idea of this "Poncho Sweater" from the seventies. Picturing on location with a bicycle clinches it. It's knitted in a chunky pure wool from the era of back to nature fibres (after the decade with all that courtelle crepe).

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

Commence at top.
With 6½mm needles cast on 167 (171) sts.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K3, purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

7th row: K8 (10), MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 8(10) sts; knit to end.
8th row: As 2nd row.
9th - 12th rows: Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows twice.

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Work 12 more rows and then conunence side shaping.

1st row: K2tog tbl; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Continue to dec in this way at each of every 4th row until 151 (155) sts remain, and then every alternate row until 119 (123) sts remain.

Next row: K2tog tbl, k2, purl to the last 4 sts, k2, k2tog.
Next row: As 1st row.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 79 (83) sts remain, ending with a right side row.

Next row: P2 (4), P2tog, * p6, p2tog, repeat from * to the last 3 (5) sts, purl to end. [69 (73) sts].

Change to 5½mm needles.
1st row:. K2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to the last st, k1.
2nd row: * K1, p1, repeat from * to the last st, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows for 11 cm (4¼ inches).
Cast off in rib.

Front - Left side

With 6½mm needles cast on 70 (72) sts.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K3, purl to end.
3rd row: Increase in first stitch, knit to end.
4th row: K3, purl to the last stitch, increase in last stitch.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows once more.
7th row: Increase in first stitch, k4, MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 8(10) sts; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as set.
Increase 1st at the neck edge on the next 4 rows.
Work 13 rows without shaping.

Commence side shaping.
1st row: Knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Continue to decrease in this way at the end of every 4th row, until 74 (76) sts remain.
Work 1 row. Break yarn and leave sts on spare needle.

Front - Right side

With 6½mm needles cast on 70 (72) sts.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: Purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
3rd row: Knit to the last stitch, increase in the last stitch.
4th row: Increase in first stitch, purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows once more.
7th row: K8 (10), MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 5 sts; k4 increase in the last stitch.
Continue in pattern as set.
Increase 1st at the neck edge on the next 4 rows.
Work 13 rows without shaping.

Commence side shaping.
1st row: K2tog tbl; knit to end.
Continue to decrease in this way at the beginning of every 4th row, until 74 (76) sts remain.
Work 1 row.

Next row: Work to end of right side.
Cast on 9 sts for front opening.
Now work across stitches of left side. [157 (161) sts].

Complete exactly as for back.

Hood

With 5½ mm needles cast on 163 stitches.
Work 11 rows in garter-stitch (every row knit).

Next row: Cast off 28 stitches; knit to the last 28 stitches; cast off these stitches.
Break yarn.

Turn and rejoin yarn to remaining 107 stitches.
Change to 6½mm needles.
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.

Next row: K8, MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to the last 8 stitches; k8.
Continue in pattern as set. Work 22 more rows.

Next row: P38 stitches, cast off 31 stitches, purl to end.
Continue on the last set of stitches and work 10 rows.

Shape back.
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then the 4 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the 8 remaining stitches.
Rejoin yam to remaining stitches.
Work 11 rows.
Shape back to match first side.

To Make Up

Press each piece lightly with a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join top seams.
Join side edges of welt ribbing.
Join back seam on hood
Place this seam in the centre of the cast off stitches, and sew crown seam.
Sew hood to neck edge, and borders to front opening edges.
Join edges of borders together for 2 cm ( inch) from start of front opening.
Press all seams lightly.

Ties - make 2

Using 2 strands of yarn 66cm (26 inches) long, make a twisted cord and knot the end. Thread the folded end of he cord through the edge of the knitting at the neck, open up the cord, thread knotted end through cord and draw up.

Materials

24 (25) 50g Chunky yarn.

A pair each of Nos
5 (5½mm) and 3 (6½mm) needles.

Tension

15 sts and 20 rows to 4 inches over the pattern using 6½ mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 34-36 (36-38) inches; length from top of shoulders 26 inches.

Abbreviations

MB: Make bobble as follows: (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) into next stitch, turn; k5, turn; p5, turn; k2tog, k1, k2tog, turn; p3tog, completing bobble.

tog: together.

tbl: through back loops.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2014

Cross Season Jumper

CrossSeason1.jpg CrossSeason2.jpg

I thought this looked like highly wearable jumper with a very flattering neckline. From the picture it looks like it has bracelet length sleeves - which I very much favour - but the instructions imply they are full length; I like the look of the pushed-up sleeves in the photo so much that I think I would knit them shorter. There is shaping through the body but this could be omitted - you would need to cast on 106 (112) instead of 94 (100) and knit straight to the armhole.

The pattern suggests using a violet colour but I envisioned it in chartreuse.

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

‡‡

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 94 (100) stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k10, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, k10.

2nd row: p10, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, p10.

3rd row: p10, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, p10.

4th row: k10, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, k10.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

CrossSeason3.jpg

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 4 inches.
With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 st at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 106 (112) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 14½ (15) inches.

‡‡

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5(5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate rows until 86 (90) stitches remain.
Work straight until back measure 22½ (23) inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of next 4 rows, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 32 (34) stitches.

Front

Work as back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

With right side facing, shape armholes and divide for neck as follows:

Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern 47 (50).
Turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end, taking the 2 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [49 (52) sts]

Continue shaping armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on next and following 4 (5) alternate rows. [44 (46) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front opening measures 2 inches.

With wrong side facing, cast on 10 sts for collar, pattern to end, taking the 10 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [54 (56) sts]

Work straight until outside edge of collar measures 2 inches from the 10 cast-on stitches.
With wrong side facing, cast on a further 5 sts, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Continue straight on the remaining 32 (33) stitches for 2½ inches.
Cast off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 54 (57) sts, pattern to end.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 st at armhole edge on following 5 (6) alernate rows. [44 (46) sts].

Finish to correspond with first shoulder, with reversed shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 (50) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 2(3) sts evenly across last row.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern across as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, k6.

2nd row: p6, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, p6.

3rd row: p6, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, p6.

4th row: k6, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, k6.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern increasing 1 stitch at end of next and every following 8th row until there are 76 (79) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (17) inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 (4) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternat row until 30 (37) sts remain, then at each end of every row untl 14 (15) sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the ridge pattern.
Join collar at centre back neatly with a flat edge-to-edge seam.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew collar neatly along back of neck.
Catch down 2 cast-on stitches at start of neck opening on wrong side.
Press all seams.

Materials

20 (22) ozs. Patons Double Knitting, in Violet.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 35-36 (37-38) inches; length from top of shoulders, 22½ (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 16½ (17) ins.

Abbreviations

Cross2K: knit into back of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Cross2P: purl into front of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2014

Stormcheater

Stormcheater.jpg

Another scarf/hood combination from the 1940s that is the partner of last year's pattern. It has a firm headband to frame the face, and a pocket construction at the back (see photo below) to keep that forties hairdo in good shape. The scarf ties are double thickness.

The Back with elastic casing:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: Slip 1, k1, * wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat the 3rd row 4 times.
8th row: Slip 1, k2tog, wfd;* k1, wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back; repeat from * to the last 3sts; k1, wfd k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd Row 3 times.

12th row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Cast off.

The Head Piece:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:

1st row: K2tog, knit to the last 2sts k2tog.
2nd row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until 68sts remain.
Cast off.

The Border:

Cast on 120sts.
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 11 times; the 2nd row twice; then the 1st and 2nd rows 12 times.
Cast off.

To Make Up the Stormcheater

Press each piece separately on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew the cast on edge of the back to the cast on edge of the head piece.
Commencing at this seam, sew the shaped side edges together for 14½ inches.
Fold back the cast on edge of the border to the centre (the knit row on the wrong side of the work formed by the purl row on the right side of the work); place a roll of cotton wool under this fold then sew the cast on edge to the last purl row before the knit row.
Fold back the cast off edge, pad with cotton wool to form a second roll and sew in position to correspond.
Place the open end of one padded rollover the other open end and sew both ends together.
Sew this end of the roll to the edge of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the other ends of the padded rolls in the same manner and sew to the other side of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the shaped edge of the head piece to the seam of the padded rolls.
Thread elastic through the casing on the back and sew in position at the ends.
Sew the edges of the elastic casing to the seam at the ends of the padded rolls.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 ozs 3ply wool.

One pair No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles.

9½ inches elastic.
Cotton wool for padding.

Tension

Approx. 32sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

December 2013

Fireside Slippers

FiresideSlippers.jpg

A lovely old-fashioned pair of knitted slippers. Make them using a luxury yarn in a striking colour for a quickly knitted Christmas gift.

Instructions

Instructions in 3 sizes, each size separated by forward slash (/).

Both slippers are worked alike.

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 90/95/100 stitches and work 12 rows in garter stitch (that is: every row knitted).

Change to pattern as follows:

1st row: k4, * p2, k3; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p2, k4.
2nd row: k1, p3, * p3, k2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p3, k1.

3rd row: k1, * wfwd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, wrn, p2, * to last 4 stitches, wfwd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, wrn, k1.
4th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more, then rows 1-3 inclusive again: 19 pattern rows.

Work 5 rows in garter stitch.

Cast off.

Make a second slipper in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.

Fold foot pieces in half and join centre back and foot seams neatly with a flat seam.

Thread ties through holes made in 19th row of the patterning.
You can find information from Sirdar on making ties here.

Press seams.

Note:
You may like to cover the soles of the slippers with a non-slip material such as a washable non-slip liner available in limited colours from (for example) Wilkinsons in the UK.

Materials

3/3/3oz Double Knitting yarn.

One pair each No 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

22 stitches by 30rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 4mm needles

Size matters

To fit 3 sizes
small/medium/large.

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


....so.... speaking of quickly knitted gifts....

An extra Christmas gift just for you. Don't bother to thank me - it's priceless I think you'll agree.
Perfect if you are thinking of elf-themed fancy dress this Christmas - and I can recommend that you use any left-over felt to make a matching elfish pointy collar.

FiresideSlippers.jpg

They miss out the key instruction at the end of the making up section .... "Do not wear".
Joking apart, this method of threading ribbon or fabric strips through a crocheted mesh base is a good technique for creating an interesting textured fabric to work with. I have seen it used to good effect making, for example, an evening clutch bag, using more luxurious starting materials.

October 2013

Fancy Rib Jacket

FancyRibJacket.jpg

This is a lovely 1950s Autumn jacket which is defined as "chunky" though this means "not fine" in modern parlance, as the wool weight is a pretty standard double knitting.
I love this style and always meant to make for myself but have not yet done so - hence it is untested, and the original instructions are available in only one size. The instructions are not intended for a beginner - you need to keep your eye on right and wrong sides, and preserving the button band stitches - but having said that, I think it is fairly clearly explained.

Instructions.

Fancy rib pattern worked as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

These 2 rows form pattern.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 90 stitches loosely and work 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge all along

[Editor's note: Though not clear in the photo, it seems the back of the jacket is knitted plain up to the armholes, whereas the fronts have the pattern over the pockets as well.]

Next row: Purl, increasing 3 sts, evenly across the row [93 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7 inches from lower edge.

With right side facing continue in stocking-stitch, shaping waist as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k26, k2tog, k29; sl1, k1, psso; k26; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: k2tog, k25, k2tog, k27; sl1, k1, psso; k25; k2tog. [81 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing continue shaping as follows:
Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k25; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k29; increase 1 as before; k25; increase in last stitch [85 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k26; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k31; increase 1 as before; k26; increase in last stitch [89 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k27; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k33; increase 1 as before; k27; increase in last stitch [93 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k28; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k35; increase 1 as before; k28; increase in last stitch [97 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch [99 sts]
Work straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and the following 3 alternate rows. [79 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): P9; * purl twice in next stitch, p6; repeat from * to end [89 sts]

Next row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. [147 sts]

With wrong side facing. change to fancy rib pattern, starting with 1st pattern row and work straight until back measure 23½ inches down centre ending with 1st pattern row [89 sts]
With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib over all sts, and shape shoulders by casting off 9 sts at beginning of next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 35 stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 26 sts and work 6 inches in stocking stitch ending with a knit row.
Leave these sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make second pocket in the same way.

Left Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): purl to last 23 sts; k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Change to pattern with button border in stocking stitch and remainder in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): p23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 7 inches, ending with 1st pattern row [67 sts]
With right side facing, change to stocking stitch, inserting pocket as follows:

Next row: K5; increase 1, k4, cast off 26, k20 sl1 purlways, k11.

Next row: P32, pur1 across one set of 26 pocket stitches in place of those cast off; p10 [68 sts]


With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch slipping the centre stitch in border on right side rows throughout, and shape for waist as follows:

Next row: K2tog, k27. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k26. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k25. k2tog, knit to end. [62 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing, continue shaping as follows:

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 25, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 26, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 27, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 28, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to end [71 sts]

Work straight until front measures same as back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 4 alternate rows [61 sts]

Next row: Purl.

Next row: * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11. [85 sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in fancy rib pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): P23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2tog, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Continue decreasing thus inside the 23 border sts on the following 10 alternate rows. Pattern back (1st pattern row). [50sts]

Work a few rows straight in pattern, until back measures same as front ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib keeping stocking-stitch border as before, and shape shoulder by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows - armhole edge.

Leave remaining 23 sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11, purl to end.

Change to pattern as follows (button border in stocking stitch as before):

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 25sts; k2, p23.
2nd row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11; * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2sts; p2.

Repeat these 2 rows for 1½ inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, make double buttonhole in next 2 rows as follows: k4, cast off 3, k4, sl1, k4, cast off 3, k4, work to end and back, casting on 3 sts over those cast off

Finish as for left front reversing all shapings, making another 5 double buttonholes as above at 3-inch intervals.

Your pocket row will read:
k11, sl1, k20, cast off 26, k4, increase 1, k5.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 sts loosely and work 5 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking-stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at end of 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 78 sts.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 19½ inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 40 sts remain; then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press stocking-stitch parts only under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Turn under 2½ inches round each sleeve and slip-hem loosely on wrong side.
Catch down pocket linings to main work.

Now with No 8 needles, k23 border sts. from spare needle at top of right front and work straight on these sts, slipping centre stitch as before until border fits to centre back of neck. Cast off.
Work left front 23 border sts in the same way; join borders at centre back and sew to neck edge.
Turn under half the border sts up to the slipped stitch all round and slip-hem on wrong side.

Oversew round double buttonholes.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

20 ozs Patons Moorland Double Knitting in Cinnamon.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) "Beehive" needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

This rib pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust: 35-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23½ ins; sleeve seam 17 ins.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase.

Abbreviations

Increase 1: by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, according to pattern instructions - or - Increase in next stitch: by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
p3tog: (decrease) purl 3 sts together.

wrn: wool round needle

sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A word on the wool.

Patons Moorland is a double knitting weight yarn which knitted to a fairly standard DK tension.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2013

Pretty bolero for a toddler

PrettyBolero.jpg

The bolero as such a popular wardrobe accessory for women in the 1950s - it went with all those off-the-shoulder/strapless little numbers (see footnote **) which was the only way to make them respectable day-wear.
This toddler adaptation with its cute puffy sleeves was clearly intended for a little girl.

Instructions

The instructions are for two sizes - the larger size is given in bold blue in curly brackets thus: "Intended to fit 1{2} year old.".
Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No.10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 70 {76} sts and work straight in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until back measures 2¼ {} inches.

With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following alternate row until 58{64} sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 5¾ {} inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 {9} sts. at beginning of next 4 rows. Cast off remaining 26 {28} sts. loosely.

Left front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 18 {21} sts and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping the front edge by increasing 1 stitch at the end of the next row, then at this edge on every following row until there are 27 {30} sts.
Work straight until front matches back at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following alternate row until 21 {24} sts. remain.
Work 4 rows straight.
With wrong side facing, start to shape front edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, then at this edge on every following 3rd row until 16 {18} sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 {9} sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (the armhole edge).

Right front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 43 {43} sts and purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and increase 21 sts on next row thus:
k1, * increase in next stitch, k1; repeat from * to end. [64 {64} sts].
Work straight until sleeve measures 1¾ inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 sts remain.

Next row (right side facing): k2tog, across entire row.
Next row: p1, * p2tog; repeat from * to end.
Cast off remaining 10 sts.

Borders

Join shoulder seams.

Main border: With No. 12 needles and contrast yarn C, cast on 7 sts and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Using contrast C, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: k1, p1, k3, p1, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row.
4th row: as 2nd row.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: k1, p1, k1; now join in M and make bobble by working (k1, p1, k1, p1) all into next stitch; now slip 2nd, 3rd and 4th sts over 1st and off needle; leave M yarn hanging, and pick up the contrast yarn C, k1, p1, k1.
Twist yarns at back of work when changing colour to avoid a hole and carry M loosely up back of work.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until strip fits all round bolero edge from centre back of neck. Cast off.

Pin in position as you go along

Sleeve Borders: In the same way work a strip in the pattern to fit all round each sleeve edge.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts gently on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew main border in position, joining edges at back of neck.
Sew on sleeve borders, joining ends in line with sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 {2} ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in main shade (Beau Blue) and 1{1} oz in white.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Width all round at underarm. 18 {20} inches; length from top of shoulders, 6½ {7} ins; sleeve seam, 2½ {} ins.

A word on the wool.

I used some vintage 3 ply yarn which had no label (but I believe is wool) for the main shade, and some Patons pure wool 3ply in white for the contrast.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


**Footnote: Have you seen Dana Wynter's outfit at the start of Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1956)?? Here - take a peek - it did have a bolero but she immediately removed it on entering the room.

BoleroDress.jpg

All this for a visit to the dentist - ok,ok, he was her old boyfriend whom she was trying to impress....

July 2013

Crochet Bootees for a Special Baby

CrochetBootees.jpg

Well - it's so much talked about I could not let it pass without a little commemoration could I?
Just make sure you make them for your own special baby - I am sure the Palace is exploding with little woolly items (and in one of the hottest month's on record...).

This crochet pattern is a staggered shell, which I found a little tricky to follow, so use the detail photo at the end for guidance as to what it should look like.

Instructions.

Special pattern stitch:
Picot: make 5 ch, then work 1 dc into 2nd of these 5 ch

And a reminder of English crochet stitches:

Double crochet: draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble: pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble: (not used in this pattern) pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loopthrough first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

Bootees (make 2)

Beginning at the sole: make 15(17;20;23)ch loosely.

1st round: Miss 3 ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 d tr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 9 dtr in last ch.
Now, work along other side of ch, working 1 dtr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 4 tr in same place as first 3 tr; sl st into 3rd ch at beginning to join the round.

2nd round: 3 ch, "inc", 1 tr in next st, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) 4 times, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) twice, sl st in 3rd ch at beginning. You now have 46(50;56;62) tr, counting the initial 3 ch as 1 tr.

3rd round: Working into the back loops only (leaves a ridge to mark sole): 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beginning.

4th round: 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg.

Repeat the 4th round 0(0;1;1) time(s).

Shape Instep

You are now going to work back and forth across the instep in rows.

1st row: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 28(30;33;36) tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.
2nd row: Miss 2 sl sts, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.

Repeat the 2nd row 4(4;4;6) times.

Next row: Miss 2 sl st, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg of 1st row to rejoin the round. You now have 28(32;38;38) tr.

Next round: 4 ch, miss 1(1;2;2) tr, 1 tr in next tr, * 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, repeat from * to last 1(1;2;2) sts, miss last 1(1;2;2) sts, sl st in 3rd of 4 ch to join the round. You now have 14(16;18;18) holes.

Next round: 1 ch, 1 dc in same place as sl st, * 1 dc in next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in next tr, repeat from * to last ch sp, 1 dc in 1 ch sp, 1 dc in same place as first dc, DO NOT JOIN the round.
You now have 29(33;37;37) dc.

Turn, and work in rows as follows:

First size only:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc *; repeat from * to * (0;1;1) times; 3ch, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc (3;1;1) times; repeat from * to * (1;2;2) times, ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

All sizes: You now have 4(5;5;5) patterns.

2nd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first dc, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in last dc instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

3rd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Repeat the 3rd row 1(1;3;3) times.

Next row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, miss 1 sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Next row: (3 ch, 2 tr) in first tr, * miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * to last pattern, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, 3 tr in top of turning ch, "Picot". Fasten off.

Make Up

Using a flat seam, join back seam.
Thread ribbon through holes at ankle.
It is recommended not to press these bootees, owing to the crochet texture.

Materials

1 ball 3ply.

3mm crochet hook.

1m of ribbon

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes: length of sole 7(8;9;11) cm

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
htr: half treble
dtr: double treble

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;
inc: increase - work 2 tr in next tr
dec: decrease - (yoh, draw up a loop in next st, yoh and draw through first 2 loops on hook) twice, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Picture of pattern detail:

CrochetBootees.jpg

Knitted Bootees for a Special Baby

KnittedBootees.jpg

Well - it's so much talked about I could not let it pass without a little commemoration could I?
Just make sure you make them for your own special baby - I am sure the Palace is exploding with little woolly items (and in one of the hottest month's on record...).

This is the knitted set which is fairly plain with a discreet eyelet pattern, and should be quite simple to make.

Bootees (make 2)

With No 10 needles, cast on 33 sts. and knit 1 row.

1st - 4th rows: Knit.
5th row (eyelet row): K1; (yfwd., k2tog) 16 times.
6th - 8th rows: Knit.
9th row: Knit.
10th row (eyelet row): K1; (yfwd., k2tog) 16 times.
11th - 20th rows: as 1st to 10th rows inclusive.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

Next row: as 5th row.
Next row: as 10th row.
Next row: K23. Turn.
Next row: K1; p11; k1.

Work 14 rows in stocking stitch on these 13 sts.
Break off yarn.

Rejoin yarn to inside edge of 10 sts, then knit up 10 sts along side of foot; knit across 13 sts on needle, knit up 10 sts from other side of foot, finally knit across remaining 10 sts. [53 sts]
Knit 9 rows (garter stitch - every row knit).

Shape toe:

1st row: (k1, k2tog, k21, k2tog) twice; k1.
2nd row: K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog; k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2tog, k18, k2tog) twice; k1.
4th row: as 2nd row.

Cast off.

Make Up

Press lightly on wrong side. Join seam.
Using 2 lengths of twisted yarn 40 in. long, make a cord and thread through holes at ankle.
Sew a tassel to each end of cord.
Press seams.

Materials

1 25g ball Quickerknit - for example Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino

Pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

26sts x 34 rows to 4 inches on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2013

Cool summer lacy dress ...or...

CrochetDress.jpg

This is a lovely - and typical - dress from the burgeoning decade of the 1970s. Crafts and bohemian dress was the thing that defined the start of the era, (while Punk defined the end of it). Back to nature - self sufficiency - flowing maxi dresses and floppy hats - Golden Hands and all that followed (... quite a lot of macramé if I remember rightly).
Elaine made this version and Kate models it layered as a tunic - but with the weather we are being promised for the next few days** as Wimbledon comes to its climax, it might be just as appropriate to wear as originally designed - Grecian goddess style...

Instructions.

Special pattern stitches as follows:
[Editor's note: You will probably find these stitches easier to execute if you try them as opposed to how they appear on paper.]

Bar-st front (worked on right side rows): yarn over, then starting with hook at front of work insert hook from right to left behind stem of next st and through to front again, yarn over and draw loop through up to same height as shells, then complete tr in usual way.
Bar-st back (worked on wrong side rows): yarn over, then with hook at back of work insert hook from right to left in front of stem of next st and through to back again, yo and draw ioop through up to same height as shells, then complete tr in usual way.
Long bar-st: work as bar-st front or back but starting with yarn over twice and working a double tr instead of a tr.
Bodice shell: work 2 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr into same chain or space.
Skirt shell (small): work 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr into same chain or space.
Skirt shell (large): work 3 dtr, 1 ch, 3 dtr into same chain or space.

[Editor's note: Elaine made this dress more than once, and she made a small adjustment to the pattern which worked well. Instead of making the skirt back and front separately, she joined the bodice back and front together at the side seams, and then worked the skirt in the round. Just make the appropriate amount of chains (3 or 4) at the start of each round and join at the end with a slip stitch. It saves having to make a join all the way down the side of the skirt.]

Bodice Back

Using size 5 (5½mm) hook make 57(63:69) ch.

1st row (right side facing): Work a shell of [2 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr] into 6th ch from hook, * miss 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr into next ch, miss 2 ch, work 1 shell into next ch; repeat from * to last 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr into last ch. 9(10:11) shells.
2nd row: 3 ch, * 1 shell into space at centre of shell in row below, 1 bar-st back into tr; repeat from * to last shell, 1 shell into space, 1 tr into top ch at beginning of previous row.
3rd row: 3 ch, * 1 shell into space, 1 bar-st front into the bar-st back of row below; repeat from * to last shell, 1 shell into space, 1 tr into last tr.

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 3½ ins.

Shape Armholes

1st row (right side facing): Sl st across to space of first shell, 3 ch, 1 bar-st into bar-st, * 1 shell, 1 bar-st; repeat from * to last shell, 1 tr into space of last shell, turn.
2nd row: Sl st into top of bar-st, 3 ch, *1 shell, 1 bar-st; repeat from * to end, replacing last bar-st with a tr into bar-st at beginning of previous row. 7(8:9) shells remain.

Continue in pattern until armholes measure 3½(:4) inches.

Shape Neck

1st row (right side facing): Work in pattern until 2 shells have been worked. 1 bar-st, 1 tr into space of next shell, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch. work 1 shell into space of shell, work in pattern to end.
3rd row: Work 3 ch, 1 shell, 1 bar-st, 1 tr into space of next shell. Turn.
4th row: 3 ch, 1 shell, 1 tr into 3rd ch at beginning of row below. 1 shell remains.

Repeat the last row until armhole measures 6½(:7) ins measured straight. Fasten off.

Leave 1(2:3) shells at centre unworked and rejoin yarn to centre of next shell.
1st row (right side facing): 3 ch, 1 bar-st into bar-st, work in pattern to end. 2 shells worked.
Complete to match first side reversing shapings.

Bodice Front

Work as given for Back to . Continue in pattern until armholes measure 2½(:3) inches, ending with a right side row.
Complete as given for Back from to end.

Skirt Back

With right side of back facing rejoin yarn to lower edge and work across starting ch as follows:-
3 ch, 1 shell into same ch as first shell of bodice, * 1 bar-st front, 1 shell into same ch as next shell in bodice; repeat from * 7(8:9) times more, 1 tr into last ch. 9(10:11) shells.
Next row: 3 ch, * 1 shell into space, 1 bar-st front; repeat from * to last shell, 1 shell into space, 1 tr into 3rd ch at beginning of previous row.
Continue in pattern until skirt measures 6 ins.
Next row: 3 ch, * work a shell of [3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr] into space, 1 ch, 1 bar-st, 1 ch; repeat from * to last shell, [3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr] into space, 1 tr into 3rd ch at beginning of previous row.
Repeat the last row until skirt measures 12 ins.
Next row: 4 ch, * work a shell of [3 dtr, 2 ch, 3 dtr] into space, 1 ch, 1 long bar-st, 1 ch; repeat from * ending with 1 dtr into top ch at beginning of previous row.
Continue in pattern as on last row until skirt measures 181½ inches or required length, finishing with a wrong side row.
Next row: 4 ch, * work a shell of 9 dtr into space, 1 ch, 1 long bar-st, 1 ch; repeat from * replacing last long bar-st with 1 dtr into 4th ch at beginning of previous row.

Fasten off.

Skirt Front

Work as given for Skirt Back.

Finishing and Edging

Press pieces very gently with a damp cloth, (or just dampen and pin out to block).
Join side and shoulder seams.

Edgings:
With right side of work facing and using size 7 (4½mm) hook, work 120(136:152) dc evenly round neck edge, sl st to join.
Next round: 1 dc into first dc, * miss 3 dc, work a shell of 9 tr into next dc, miss 3 dc, 1 dc into next dc; repeat from * to last 7 dc, miss 3 dc, 1 shell into next dc, miss 3 dc, sl st into dc at beginning of round. Fasten off. 15(17:19) shells.
Using size 7 (4½mm) hook work 1 row of firm dc round each armhole.

Press seams and edgings.

Optional Belt:
Using size 5 (5½mm) hook and 3 strands of yarn make a chain 50 inches long for belt, fasten off. Thread through the holes formed along the starting ch of bodice.

Materials

14-17ozs. Winfield Trycel DK (see A Word on the Wool)

Crochet hook Nos
5 (5½mm) and 7 (4½mm).

Tension

One bar-st and one shell are 11 inches over pattern on size 5 hook.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 37) inches;
length from top of shoulders, 25½ (25¾ : 26) inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
tr: treble crochet
dtr: double treble
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Potentially any double knitting quality can be used (knitting tension would be about 22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches or 10 cm).

The recommended quantity of 13-17 ozs (1oz = 28g) is for a synthetic/nylon type yarn and the yardage on these tends to be 30-50% longer than pure wools or cottons, so be prepared to use up to twice as much weight in yarn as stated.

This would be good made in cotton as a summer dress (can't imagine it in nylon... or rather I probably can - though here are some good synthetics these days). If choosing cotton, a blend or soft cotton would probably be better to give it more drape.

Elaine used a pure lambswool double knitting yarn from Kingcraig, who have an eBay store, and Kate wears this version as a tunic.

1970 and 2012


** These idyllic 70s scenes of a beautiful natural life in the country, were usually shot abroad to ensure success in good weather. However, in 1976 we had the hot summer to end all summers - even Parisians had abandoned fashion with everyone in my sister's words "looking as though they were pregnant" wearing cheesecloth tents attached over the shoulder with ribbon straps.

"The temperature reached 26.7°C (80°F) every day between 22 June and 16 July. For 15 consecutive days from 23 June to 7 July inclusive, temperatures reached 32.2°C (90°F) somewhere in England. Furthermore, five days saw temperatures exceed 35°C (95°F). On 28 June, temperatures reached 35.6°C (96.1°F) in Southampton, the highest June temperature recorded in the UK. The hottest day of all was 3 July, with temperatures reaching 35.9°C (96.6°F) in Cheltenham, one of the hottest July days on record in the UK." - Wikipedia

May 2013

Mock Cable Cardigan

MockCableMay1957.jpg

Doesn't this picture have a wonderful fresh spring feel? As if summer is just around the corner. It looks just right with a summer dress, to fling casually over the shoulders for those cooler English summer breezes - or for a more formal look - buttoned up with a scarf plus a narrow tweed skirt (and possibly gloves!) to complete the outfit (see photo at the end).
This design has been calling to me for quite some time but as usual I have yet to find the time to try it out. So here it is untested.
"raglan armholes and and firm ribbed bands for this useful cardigan in white to go with everything"

Instructions.

Figures in bold blue given in brackets, refer to the larger size; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Back

With No 13 needles cast on 123 (133) stitches and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, starting the first row, k1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern thus:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p2; repeat from * to last stitch 3 sts, k3.
3rd row: * p3, k2tog, but do not slip these stitches off the needle, now knit into 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
4th row: as 2nd row

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 12½ (13) inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 103 (113) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulders as follows:
Cast off 3 (4) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, and 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off remaining 43 stitches.

Left Front

Left. With No 13 needles, cast on 58 (63) sts and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back. Work straight until front matches back at side edge up to the armholes.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every following alternate row until 48 (53) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½)inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulder and neck edge as follows:

Next row (armhole edge): cast off 3 (4) stitches; pattern to end.
Next row (neck edge): cast off 3 (3) stitches; pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 15 (15) rows, and at the same time shape at the shoulder edge by casting off 3 (4) stitches; at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, then 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 13 needles, cast on 59 (59) sts, and work 2½ inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 4sts evenly across on last row. [63 (63) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row, until there are 97 (97) sts, taking the eextra stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 16 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

**
Next row: p3 slip1, k1, psso; pattern to the last 5 sts, k2tog, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
Next row: p3, k1, pattern to the last 4 sts, k1, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
**

Repeat from ** to ** 3(5) times more: [85 (81) sts]
Now continue to decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 border stitches, as before, at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5(5) stitches remain.
Knit back.

Next row(right side facing): p2, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p1, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p3tog.
Fasten off.

Front Borders and Neckband

Pin sleeves into armholes - top of sleeve fits right across shoulders to neck edge. Sew carefully in position.

Front Borders: With No 13 needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a strip in k1/p1 rib to go up right front, round back of neck, and down left front.
Make 8 buttonholes up right front - first one to come ½ inch from lower edge, 8th about ½ inch below neck shaping, and remainder to be evenly spaced between.
To make a buttonhole: With right side facing, rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5, turn; rib 5. cast on 3, rib 5.

Sew border strip in position as you go along.
To turn corner at start of neck shaping on right front, work as follows: with right side facing, rib to last 3 sts., turn, rib back;
rib to last 6 stitches, turn, rib back;
rib to last 9 stitches, turn, rib back.
[Editor's note: You are working short rows to curve the knitting.]
Continue straight in rib over all stitches to start of neck shaping on left front, and then, with right side facing, turn corner in the same way.
Continue in rib until strip fits down left front.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts only very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.
Press all side seams.

Materials

14 (15) ozs. Patons Quickerknit Botany Patonised in white.

A pair each of Nos
13 (2¼mm) and 9 (3¾mm) "Beehive" needles.

8 white pearl buttons.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 26sts x 34 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 2 sizes to fit bust:
33-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of shoulders, 22 (22½) ins; and sleeve seam, 16 (16) inches.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase. Using a DK yarn with 4mm needles might increase the size to a range of 39-44 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Yarns called "quick knit" "quickerknit" and such variations evolved as a compromise for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply.

These days, there are quite a few yarns that might have a suitably similar tension as "light weight" double knits.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino ( 125m per 50g ball) is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge. If I were going to knit this cardigan, this is what I would use.

BUT - how much you might need is open to question. Most of the baby quick-knits were blended or completely synthetic and thus probably had a better yardage than pure wools. The name of the original yarn "Botany" implies it might have been a pure wool but who knows what "Patonised" implied and I have no idea of the yardage.
15oz is about 420g - so 9 x 50g balls sounds plausible for a medium sized cardigan with a textured stitch - but better to buy too much than too little.

The French manufacturer Phildar has traditionally offered ranges in this kind of yarn weight, but in practical wool/synthetic blends, currently for example: Laine Merino Alpaga, Phildar Partner 3.5, Fil Oxygene - all coming in at around 110-130m per 50g equivalent.

Bergere de France is a manufacturer whose yarns I know little of but they seem to have at least two suitable offerings eg: Annecy, Coton Fifty.

It was a bit of a surprise to me to find that I can't find much in the way of baby yarns with this designation any more.
Patons Quickerknit Baby is no more - though they currently produce Patons Beehive Baby Sport, which seems to be a kind of equivalent; Sirdar Snuggly Quick Knit is discontinued - relatively recently it seems. Both the above are acrylic and nylon mixes with a yardage of about 180m to 50g.

MockCable-2a.jpg

April 2013

Easter Baby Bonnet

EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg

This looks like a little Victorian cherub, though the pattern is much later. It uses a combination of smooth and fluffy 4 ply yarns in a relatively simple crochet motif.
I think the bonnet is particularly cute.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.


Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2013

Fair Isle for Spring to wear out when the sun shines

KnitForSpring.jpg

"Carefree and colourful sweater for him uses sparkling motif designs to wear out and about over the week-end when the sun shines" Carefree it may be.. but a double knitting fair-isle for Spring? That's a novel idea. However, I'm sure "a thick sweater to wear on a wet Spring weekend" is also a suitable maxim, so here we are.
[Editor's note: Here we are indeed.... I wrote this at the end of February - and now on March 11th we have sub-zero temperatures and blizzards raging in the South of England (and the Channel Islands). So this sweater choice.... "just perfick" for March.]

The main picture is a low resolution photo that does not quite show the pattern detail to the full; this is because I just had to include the wonderful backdrop to the sweater with record player and vinyl albums. These cool cats are from the early sixties but are listening to 1950s American jazz. You can see more clearly how the pattern looks in the chart at the end.

Instructions

Two sizes are given, with the larger size created by using a larger sized needle. Do check your tension with whatever yarn type you use, as the fair-isle patterning will tend to make the knitted fabric tighter than normal.

Back:

**
Using main colour Charcoal (C), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - for both sizes - cast on 126 stitches and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row: [127 stitches]
Next row: knit.
Next row: purl.

[Editor's note: The original instructions are written out line by line as reproduced below. I have created a chart which you can see at the end of the pattern.]

Change to No 8 (4mm) [7 (4½mm)] needles, join in white (W), and star pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit: 1W; * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: knit: * 1W, 5C, 3W, 1C, 3W, 5C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
4th row: purl: * 6C, 7W, 5C; rep, from * to last stitch, 1C
5th row: knit: * 2C, 4W, 3C, 1W, 3C, 4W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
6th row:: purl: * 3C, (3W, 2C) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
7th row: knit: * 4C, (2W, 1C) 3 times; 2W, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in Nasturtium Red (N).

8th row: purl: * 5N, 3W, 3N, 3W, 4N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.
Break N and rejoin C.

Repeat rows 7 through to 1 inclusive, in that order. (That is, the reverse of what you just knitted).
Break W.
Work 3 rows stocking-stitch in colour C.

Rejoin W and continue as follows:-

19th row: knit: , * 3C, 1W, 2C, repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
20th row: purl: * 2C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W, 1C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C
21st row: knit: 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
22nd row: purl: * 4W, 11C, 3 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
23rd row: , * 1W, (3C, 4W) twice, 3C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
24th row: purl: * 2W, 2C, 3W, 5C, 3W, 2C, 1 W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
25th row: knit: , * (1C, 2W.) twice, 7C, 2W, 1C, 2W.; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.

Break C and join in N
26th row: purl: * 2 N, 3W, 9 N, 3W, 1N; repeat from * to last stitch, 1N.

Break N and rejoin C repeat rows 26 - 19 inclusive in that order (that is, reversed as in previous sequence)
Break W.

Continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: purl.
2nd row: knit.
3rd row: purl.

Rejoin W
4th row: knit: 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break W
5th row:purl.
6th row: knit
7th row: purl.

Rejoin W
8th row: knit: *3C, 1W, 2C; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

Repeat the last 8 rows 5 [4 or 5] times more, then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Shape armholes:

Cast off 8 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Rejoin W.

1st row: k2tog W; knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
2nd row: purl: * 2W, 4C, 2W, 3C, 2W, 4C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1W.
3rd row: k2tog; knit: 4C, * 3W,1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last l3 stitches, 3W, 1C, 3W, 4C, k2tog.
4th row: purl:, 5C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 7W, 5C.
5th row: k2tog, knit: 3W, * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, 3W, k2tog.
6th row: purl:, 1C, * 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 5C; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 3W, (2C, 3W) twice, 1C.
7th row: k2tog C, knit: * 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 2W, (1C, 2W) 3 times, 1C, k2tog C.
Break C and rejoin N.

8th row: purl: 2N, * 3W, 3N, 3W, 9N; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3W, 3N, 3W, 2N.
Break N and rejoin C.

9th row: k2tog, knit: 1W, * (1C, 2W) 3 times, 7C, 2W; repeat from * to last 10 stitches, (1C, 2W) twice, 1C, 1W, k2tog.
10th row: purl:, 2W, * (2C, 3W) twice, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 9 stitches, 2C, 3W, 2C, 2W
11th row: k2tog W, knit: * 3C, 1W, (3C, 4W) twice; repeat from
* to last 9 stitches, 3C, 1W, 3C, k2tog W.
12th row: purl:, 1C, * 7W, 11C; repeat from * to last 8 stitches,7W, 1C.
13th row: k2tog, knit: 2W, * 1C, 3W, 5C, 1W, 5C, 3W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 1C, 2W, k2tog.
14th row: purl:, 2W, * 3C, 2W, 4C, 3W, 4C, 2W; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, 2W.
15th row: k2tog, knit: * 4C, 1W, 1C; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, 3C, k2tog.
Break W

16th row: purl.
17th row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
18th row: purl.
Rejoin W
Repeat the last 18 rows once more.

Next row: k2tog W, knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog W.
Break W.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog C, knit: 1W, * 5 C, 1W; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog C.
Break W

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog , knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Rejoin W
Next row: k2tog, knit: 1C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,
1W, 1C, k2tog.
**

Keeping continuity of pattern continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 47 stitches remain. Pattern back and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back from ** to **.
Pattern back.

Shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, k16, k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first 18 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every knit row until 2 stitches remain.

K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, return to remaining stitches, slip centre 25 stitches, on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 20 stitches, k2tog., pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and C, cast on 56 stitches and work 3 inches k1, p1 rib.

Next row: * k2, knit twice in next stitch, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, knit twice in last stitch. [75 sts]
Next row: purl.

Change to No. 8 [7] needles, join in W and continue in snowflake pattern as follows:-

1st row: knit: 1C, 1W, * 5C, 1W; repeat from * to last stitch, 1C.
Break W

2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit twice in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, knit twice in last stitch.
4th row: purl.
Join in W

5th row: knit: 5C, * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to end.
Break W

6th row: purl.
7th row: knit.
8th row: purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 109 stitches. Work straight until 13 complete patterns and 2 rows of 14th have been done from start.

Now shape top working as for back from to : 55 stitches remain.

Next row: purl.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.
Join In W
Next row: k2tog C, knit: * 1W, 5C; repeat from * to last 3 stitches,
1W, k2tog C.

Keeping continuity of snowflake pattern decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 5 stitches remain. Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join raglan seams on right sleeve, matching patterns carefully.
Join left sleeve raglan at front.
Neck Ribbing: With No 10 needles and main colour C, start at top of left sleeve and with right side facing. Knit 5 sleeve stitches, pick up and Knit 18 stitches down left side of neck, knit centre 25 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 18 stitches up right side of neck, knit 5 sleeve stitches, then knit 47 stitches from back: 118 stitches.
Work 15 rows k1, p1 rib.
Cast off very loosely in rib using a bigger needle.

Join remaining raglan seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Join neck ribbing neatly, then fold in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.

Press all seams, avoiding ribbing.

Materials


18[21]ozs Patons Double Quick Knitting in Charcoal; 5 [5] ozs in White and 1[1] oz Nasturtium.
[Editor's note: You really need very little of this red colour - enough for about 12 rows.]

Pair each No 8 [7] (4mm []), and No 10 [10] (3¼mm []).

Tension

24sts to 4 ins using No 8 needles for the smaller size, and 22½ sts to 4 ins using No 7 needles for the larger size, over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 38-40 (41-43)inches.

Length from top of shoulders, 25 (28 or 25½) ins;
sleeve seam, 18½(19½) ins.

Instructions for larger size given in brackets [bold blue]. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size indicate that any standard UK double knitting would work; in the US this yarn weight is probably considered a light worsted.
It's worth checking your tension as, even in the UK, the term double knitting covers a multitude of subtle variations.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.



Snowflake Pattern Chart

Chart of the first pattern section as given for the Back. This shows the pattern detail not fully visible in the main photo.

SnowflakeChart.jpg



Cool Cats and their American Jazz

From the original photo I can just make out the records in the foreground - the ones on the sofa behind the models defeat me...

DukeJordanTrio.jpg KrupaAndRich.jpg

The Duke Jordan Trio look like they are on the turntable (if not our model's companion is bending the vinyl in the sleeve to an ill-advised angle). The album was recorded on January 28th 1954. Tracks are: Jordu, Scotch Blues, Wait And See, Darn That Dream, Embraceable You, Just One Of Those Things, They Can't Take That Away From Me, and, Confirmation.
Next up for consideration (our model is reading the sleeve notes) is "Krupa and Rich" - both drummers - with an eponymous recording from 1956.
Examples of the music can be found on You Tube.



The record player

It has to be a Dansette doesn't it?
I have to admit I was totally ignorant about this famous brand until very recently. I can't exactly say they were before my time, as they were manufactured between 1952 and 1969, and we did have a record player in that era which was likely to have been a Dansette, but I cannot remember it well enough to say one way or the other.
As to the model in the picture - it looks a bit like the "Bermuda" shown on this fabulous site, though there are some differences. It seems likely as Julie says: "The Dansette Bermuda is by far the model we have the most of in all colours".

February 2013

Heirloom shawl

HeirloomShawlC.jpg

A lace baby shawl made in a 3 ply fingering weight, which makes it a bit more feasible to contemplate as a viable project than the traditional 2 ply, while yet remaining fine and lacey. Added to that, it is made up in sections, rather than a single piece which makes it easier to handle, with all the decreasing lace stitches.

Note added September 2018: since I first transposed this pattern I have had a number of queries so I have recently checked the pattern by knitting it myself from the instructions, and as a consequence corrected some scripting errors (random capital letters and typos), plus I have added the number of stitches after each alternate pattern row on the border pieces. I hope this will help, because despite the fact that the stitches overall are gradually decreasing, on some rows the stitch count increases.
I hope I have caught all the remaining issues, but, as ever, I always welcome anyone sharing any problems they may encounter while knitting it.

Instructions

The shawl is made in 5 pieces: first a centre square, and then 4 mitred borders that are sewn on each side of the centre.

Centre Square

With No 8 needles, cast on 162 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch), sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: k1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch); repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows until work measures 21 inches.
Cast off.

Borders (make 4)

With No 9 needles, cast on 206 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: knit.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows twice more [200 sts].

Change to pattern as follows:-

1st row: p2tog, p4, k2tog, wrn, p2, * (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2, p2tog. [186 sts]
2nd row: k5, p2, k2, * p7, (k1, p3)twice, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k3.
3rd row: p2tog, p3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p1, p2tog. [184 sts]
4th row: k4, p2, k2, * p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k2.
5th row: p2tog, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; rep, from * 5 times more, p2tog. [182 sts]
6th row: k3, p2, k2, * p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
7th row: p2tog, p1, * wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p1, p2tog. [180 sts]
8th row: k2, p2, k2, * p11, k1, p11, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
9th row:
p2tog, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 5 times more, p2tog. [178 sts]
10th row: k1, p2, * k2, p25, k2, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
11th row: k2tog, k1, * p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, k1, k2tog. [176 sts]
12th row: * p2, k2, p6, k1, p11, k1, p6, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2.
13th row: k2tog, * p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog. [174 sts]
14th row: * p1, k2, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, p7, k2, p1; repeat from * to end.
15th row: p2tog, p1, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, pl, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p1, p2tog. [172 sts]
16th row: * k2, p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, p8, k1,(p2, k1) twice, p8, k2.
17th row: p2tog, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2tog. [170 sts]
18th row: k1, * p9, k1,(p1, k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 4 times more, p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k1.
19th row: k2tog, wfd., k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k2tog. [168 sts]
20th row: p11, * k1, p11, k2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, p11.
21st row: k2tog, k8, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k9; repeat from * 4 times more, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k8, k2tog. [176 sts]
22nd row: p10, * p13, k2, p2, k2, p12; repeat from * 4 times more, p11.
23rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, * k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd., k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog. [174 sts]
24th row: p15, * k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k1, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, p4.
25th row: k2tog, k7, p1, * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k7, k2tog. [162 sts]
26th row: p8, k1, * p3, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k1, p3, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p8.
27th row: k2tog, k6, p1, * k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k6, k2tog. [160 sts]
28th row: p7, k1, * p2, k1, p8, k2, p2, k2, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * ending p7.
29th row: k2tog, k5, p1, * k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k5, k2tog. [158 sts]
30th row: p6, k1, * p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p6.
31st row: k2tog, k4, p1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, s1, k2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k4, k2tog. [156 sts]
32nd row: p5, k1, * p11, k2, p2, k2, p11, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p5.
33rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd., sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog. [164 sts]
34th row: p17, * k2, p2, k2, p25; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p2, k2, p17.
35th row: k2tog, k3, * wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, k2tog. [162 sts]
36th row: p4, * p5, k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6 k1, p6; repeat from * 4 times more, p3.

Cast off 162 stitches.

Make 3 more pieces the same.

To Make Up

Pin parts out and press very lightly under a damp cloth (so not to flatten the pattern stitches too much).
Join borders very neatly to centre square, then join corners of border.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3 ply Patons Baby Wool.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

In stocking stitch: 26 stitches. and 34 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles.
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

32 inches square.

Abbreviations

wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.


sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).


k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

The original pattern calls for Patons "Beehive" which is no longer available but Patons do a range of 3 ply baby wools.

Patons Dreamtime Fairytale is 100% wool available in 6 pastel shades; wash at 30°; 50g ball, 230m/252 yards.

They also make Fairytale 3 ply (not "Dreamtime"), which is a mix of acrylic and nylon in white only. Maybe not so perfect for an heirloom shawl.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2013

Fair-Isle Hooded Scarf

HoodedScarf3.jpg

A lovely warm idea that has never lost its popularity: a scarf/hood combination. This has an interesting construction with the scarf being double sided, and the hood being more a like a pocket with the intention that it should form soft folds when worn. [I'm more used to a pixie hood type design with a centre back seam].

Hood Scarf:

Using the main colour wool (MC) cast on 108 sts.

1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 9 times more.

** Join in the first contrast (B) and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).



Commencing with the 3rd, row proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off contrast B.

1st row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
3rd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice.

Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures 40 inches
from the beginning, ending on the wrong side of the work.
Repeat from ** to ** 3 times.

Work 18 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.
Press on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Fold the scarf in half lengthways. Sew up the seam for 16 inches, leave 16 inches open to form the hood, sew up the remainder of the seam.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a tube which you press flat to make a double thickness scarf, and the hood is formed by leaving the tube open, so the hood is single thickness.]

Hood Border:

Work a border along one 16 inch side of the hood opening as follows:
With the wrong side of the work facing, using the Main Colour wool and commencing 2 inches from the seam, pick up and knit 108 sts. evenly along the next 12 inches (ending 2 inches from the other seam).
[Editor's note: I know - it seems like you are knitting on the wrong side - but the border is folded back - so it's all OK.]

Next row (right side): Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Join in the second contrast B and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart, proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).

Commencing with the 3rd row, proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off first contrast (B)
Next row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Proceed as follows:
Next row: Slip 1, k1, * pl, k.l, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the this row once.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up the Scarf.

Sew the ends of the scarf together on the wrong side.
Place the corners of the border to the seam and sew the edges of the border to the 2-inch openings.
Turn back the border and catch-stitch in the centre to hold the border in position.
Using a No 12 Crochet Hook and main shade with the right side of the work facing, work 1 row of double crochet evenly along the other 16 inch side of the hood opening. Using the coloured wools make a mixed fringe at the ends of the scarf.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3ply in main shade plus "medium-sized" balls in each of four contrast colours eg blue, yellow, green and pink.

One pair No 9 (3¾ mm) knitting needles.
One No. 12 (2½ mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Approx. 30sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Width round face edge is 16 inches.
Length of scarf (excluding fringe) is 48 inches.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

December 2012

Nursery Slippers

NurserySlippers.jpg

Toddler slippers for a quickly knitted Christmas gift. The top of each slipper is knitted, and is designed to be attached to a purchased leather sole. You could make your own out of leather (but be prepared to line it - perhaps with quilt batting and fabric, fleece fabric, or a shaped piece of knitting. If you design your own knitted sole you can make it non-slip by sewing on sole-shaped cut-outs from cushioned fabric ("slip-a-grip"); various brand options can be purchased on a roll from kitchen suppliers, or you can buy specialist sewing fabrics for this purpose.
Below I've added a great You Tube link for instructions on how to make your own non-slip soles.

Instructions

Both slippers are worked alike. The following special abbreviation is used throughout the pattern, making a wide ribbed cable.

Tie 5: Insert right-hand needle between 5th and 6th stitches from point of left-hand needle, draw loop through and place on point of left-hand needle, then k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.


Both slippers are worked alike,

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.
Break wool.

Slip first and last 6 stitches on safety-pins for heel.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the centre 33 stitches and with No 9 needles continue in pattern for instep as follows:-

1st row: p4, (rib 5, p5) twice, rib 5, p4.
2nd row: k4, (rib 5, k5) twice, rib 5, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

5th row: p4, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p.4.
6th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

11th row: p4, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p4.
12th row: as 2nd row.

These 12 rows form pattern.

Repeat, them once more, then rows 1-6 inclusive again.

Continue in pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: 27 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 15 stitches remain. Cast off.

Join side edges of ribbing to form back seam.

For the heel:
Place the two sets of 6 stitches on a No 11 needle. With No 9
needles and right side facing, work in reversed stocking-
stitch as follows:-

Next row: p twice in 1st Stitch, p to last stitch, p twice in last stitch.
Next row: knit. Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 26 stitches ending with a knit row. Cast off.

Finishing

Pin out patterned part and heel of each slipper and press on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Sew slanting side edges of heel piece along side edge of instep piece as far as they will go without stretching; press seams.
Join back seam.

Pin tops to slipper soles and sew firmly in position.

Materials

2oz Double Knitting yarn in Lipstck Red.

One pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

A pair of size 8 soles (about 25 or 26 european size).
[Editor's note: You can try a search for "knitted slipper soles". I came up with this one.

Tension

23 stitches by 31 rows to 4 inches over stocking stich on 3¾mm needles

Size matters

Designed "for a toddler" with some flexibility as to the size of sole chosen. For a larger slipper, experiment with thicker yarn and fit to a larger sole.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn recommended was a standard double knitting. Despite the tension being very slightly tighter than usual due to the 3¾mm needles used, I think a slightly heavier weight - an Aran weight perhaps - would be quite acceptable. A tighter fabric for slippers is probably more desirable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2012

Reindeer jacket (for a small boy...or girl)

Florence.jpg

This looks so cute and would make a lovely Christmas cardigan for a toddler. The fair-isle design is not too challenging and hopefully you have plenty of time to knit for this year's festivities.
One size only I'm afraid, but you could increase it slightly by increasing the yarn weight and needle size.

This was beautifully knitted by Sara for her daughter, who also models it. The original (boy) model seen after the pattern instructions.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, k1 st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Chart C

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Chart D

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

Reindeer jacket (for a BIG boy...or girl)

P&BMoorlandJacket.jpg

Some 10 years after the entry for the child's version, I discovered an adult cardigan. Astonishingly, it is made using exactly the same instructions - practically word for word - just using a very thick wool.
They published it first as part of the Stitchcraft Moorland (DK) booklet, calling it a North American Indian Coat (pictured above), using 3 strands of the yarn held together, and later as a separate pattern leaflet "by special request" using the new Big Ben yarn, calling it a Western Frontier Jacket (pictured at the end). With such economy on a rewrite, it's still one (much bigger) size only.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

No 2 (7mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 stitches and work ribbed welt as follows:
1st row: k1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.

Continue using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.

The ribbed welt is now complete.

The remainder of Back and Fronts is worked in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side), breaking off and joining in colours as required.

[Editor's note: You may need to use a circular needle to contain this many stitches in bulky yarn, but you will still work back and forth as if on 2 needles.]

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart A, working 16 stitch repeat 7 times, plus the odd 15 stitches as marked, Read the chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

[Editor's note: After working Chart A the adult instructions call for a slightly longer length than the child's version.]

Then, starting with a knit row, work 3 rows in Light.
Using Medium colour, continue until work measures 11 inches from the beginning, finishing at the end of a purl row.
Work 2 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed to work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (21st row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light, cast off 11 stitches in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit 25 stitches in Light, knit 1 stitch in Dark, knit 26 sts in Light, cast off 11 stitches in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 stitches in Light.
Turn and proceed on the last group of 26 stitches only for Left Front.

[Editor's note: After dividing for back and fronts, the adult instructions again need a slightly longer length in the armhole,.

Left Front:

Shape armhole and commence to shape front slope:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl 2 in Dark, purl 24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of stitches on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light.
Next row: purl 26 in Light..
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Using Medium, work 3 rows.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [22stitches]

This completes the armhole shaping.
Continue to shape the front slope as follows:
Using Medium, work 3 rows.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Using Medium, work 1 row.
Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C, working the 4 stitch repeat 5 times, reading from left to right on purl rows and from right to left on knit rows.

Chart C

Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Using Light, work 2 rows.
Using Medium, work 1 row.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [18 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.

Front slope shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these stitches until the armhole measures 8½ ins, (that is 8½ ins from the 11 cast-off stitches), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 stitches back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl 24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: purl 53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the odd stitch as marked, then the 4 stitch repeat 12 times.

Chart D

Using Light work 3 rows.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 8½ ins, (that is 8½ ins from the 11 cast-off stitches), finishing at the end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 stitches on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 stitches back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed as for the Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl 24 in Light, p2 in Dark.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit 26 in Light.
Next row: Purl 26 in Light.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

...and then as stated above, complete as for Left front reversing shapings.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 stitches and work 8 rows in stocking stitch.

Continue in stocking stitch as follows:
Using Light, work 3 rows.
Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the odd stitch as marked, then the 4 stitch repeat 12 times across the row.
Then work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E, working the 16 stitch repeat 3 times, and the odd stitch as marked.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the 4 stitch repeat 12 times, and the odd stitch as marked.
Work 3 rows in Light, and 1 row in Medium.

Using Medium, work 1st and 2nd rows of rib as on the body.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.

Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Slip the 13 stitches from the Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on the welts, increasing 1 stitch at both ends of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 27 stitches on the needle.

Continue on these stitches until the rib measures 8 inches from the beginning.
Cast off in rib.

Sides of Collar

With right side of back collar facing, using Medium colour, knit up 24 stitches along one of the the increase edges, and proceed in garter stitch (every row knit), decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following alternate row until 2 stitches remain.

[Editor's note: The decrease edge is the one which will be sewn to the front slope to make the shawl collar. When the collar is folded over the ribbed section will be visible at the back of the jacket, and the garter stitch sides will be visible at the front of the jacket.]

Cast off.

Work the other side of the collar to match.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch Collar in position.

With right side facing, work 1 row of double crochet along each front edge where the zip is then stitched into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting version:
22 oz Medium (grey-main shade),
14oz Light (white),
6 oz. Dark.

Bulky yarn version:
12 hanks Medium,
8 hanks Dark,
4 hanks Light.
[Hank assumed to be 2oz]

Actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair of No 2 (7mm) needles, and/or a circular needle.
One No 7 (4½mm) crochet hook.

18-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

12sts x 16 rows to 4 ins on 7mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 42 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 25½ inches
Sleeve seam: 19 inches
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
k2tog: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland" double knitting using 3 strands held together - or -
"Big Ben" which was a very thick yarn used as a single strand.

Quantities are hard to predict and to be safe, I often allow one 50g ball for every 1oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

P&B1136s.jpg

October 2012

Cloche Cap

ClocheCap.jpg

Charming retro hat with decorative band and buckle.

I learned from the Debbie Bliss Magazine Autumn/Winter 2012 that one of my favourite designers, Louisa Harding, has been facing up, with her husband, to his challenge of being treated for lymphoma. In appreciation for the help of Macmillan nurses, Louisa is taking part in Macmillan's Nepal Hiking Challenge and seems well on her way to raising her goal of £5000.
To help achieve the target She has put together a series of seven knitting patterns called 'Himalayan Hiking Hats'. She will have her photo taken wearing each one of the hats on the first 6 days of the trek. The seventh hat pattern in the series will be knitted 'en route' and photographed on the 7th (last) trekking day.
Download the hat patterns from her site and show your support by sending a donation.

Instructions.

The main hat is knitted in reverse stocking stitch, with the band in garter stitch. The design is intended for a textured yarn.

Crown

Using the 5 No 10 needles, cast on 8 stitches, placing 2 stitches on each of 4 needles.

1st (and every alternate) round: purl
2nd round: knit twice into every stitch. [16 sts]
4th round: * k1 knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [24 sts]
Mark end of round with a contrast thread, or stitch marker.

6th round: * k2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [32 sts]
8th round: * k3, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * all round. [40 sts]

Continue increasing 8 stitches thus on every alternate round until there are 36 stitches on each needle. [144 stitches]
Work 7 rounds straight.

Next round: * k16, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [136 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k15, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [128 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k14, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [120 sts]
Work 2 rounds straight.
Next round: * k13, k2tog; repeat from * all round. [112 sts]
Work 5 rounds straight.

Cast off.

Band

Cast on 16 stitches, and work a strip in garter-stitch (every row knit) 22 inches long - or length required to fit round head with 3 inches to spare. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off. This forms a point.
Using the wool double, crochet all round the outer edge of the buckle to cover.
[Editor's note: I think this might be trickier than it sounds - either due to the bouclé nature of the yarn or the thickness of the hook you'd need to use. I might be tempted to try a blanket or button-hole stitch around the buckle using the yarn single and a large-eyed darning needle.]

Stitch the cast-on edge of the band to the buckle, then slot the shaped end through the buckle pulling it through until the band fits round the head snugly.
[Editor's note: Again a slight inconsistency in the instructions and the photo here. I don't think it matters if you have a buckle with or without a tongue. If the latter, arrange the size you need and just push the tongue through the knitting. You should catch stitch the band in place, ensuring that it looks as though the end is free, that is, as if you had not stitched it.]

To Make Up

Pin band in position evenly all round crown noting that the purl side of the crown is the right side.
Sew neatly in position stretching band slightly.
Press seam and crown very lightly under a damp cloth using a rolled towel inside hat to keep the shape.

Materials

3 ozs Patons Rimple double knitting in colour Harlequin 1572.

A set of five of No 10 (3¼mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

A 2½ inch buckle.

Crochet hook.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

An average hat size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

Patons Rimple was a softly textured bouclé yarn, (97% wool, 3% nylon), which knitted to a double knitting tension.

This hat is knitted on finer needles than usual so the knitted fabric will be denser and stiffer, giving the hat more body.

There are a few double knitting bouclé yarns available though many tend to be chunky weight. Debbie Bliss seems to have discontinued the Cashmerino Astrakhan but you can still obtain it at some outlets on the internet (and often discounted). Rowan have recently brought out a British Sheep Breeds "fine" bouclé but this still seems to knit up to a chunkier tension. You can try and obtain the right tension with finer needles - and I think this would produce an excellent knitted fabric for the hat - but be warned that knitting bouclé tightly on small needles is very hard work.

I cannot supply the yardage of Rimple, and can only guess that "Harlequin" was a multi-coloured tweed.

September 2012

Late summer man appeal

MansChequeredSweater.jpg

This is almost a guernsey style man's sweater. The "chequered pattern" is similar to the "Jacob's Ladder" in the guernsey tradition, although the raglan sleeve would not be traditional, and the double knitting yarn is a little heavier than the usual 5 ply.
I particularly like the change to to the ridged pattern for the yoke, and the raglan sleeves. I guess if you were up to a challenge, you could thread all the stitches for the yoke sections on one circular needle, and knit in the round as one piece, avoiding any potential bulky seaming. If I ever knit this, I may try that, but you do need to work it out first, as the decreasing for the sleeve sections is usually in a different sequence from the backs and fronts.

"...typical "man appeal" style that will make it a winner..."

Instructions

These 8 rows form ridge pattern:
1st row (right side facing): purl.
2nd and 3rd rows: knit.
4th and 5th rows: purl.
6th and 7th rows: knit.
8th row: purl.

Back:

Using No 10 (3¼mm)needles cast on 104(108)stitches and work 2½ inches in k2, p2 rib, increasing 10(12)stitches evenly across the last row: [114(120)stitches]

Change to No 8 (4mm)needles and pattern:

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: p7(12), k2, * p12, k2; repeat from * to last 7(12)stitches, p7(10).
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
7th row: p7(10), * k16, p12; rep. from * to last 23(26)stitches, k16, p7(10).
8th row: k9(12), * p12, k16; rep. from * to last 21(24)stitches, p12, k9(12).
9th-14th rows:
repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.
15th row: k9(12), p12, k16; repeat from * to last 21(24)stitches, p12, k9(12).
16th row: p7(10), * k16, p12; rep. from * to last 23(26)stitches, k16, p7(10).

These 16 rows form pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 15 inches, measuring work down the centre on wrong side.

With right side facing, shape raglans by casting off 5(5)stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 90(96)stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, change to ridge pattern as given at the beginning, and work 2 rows straight, then continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 76(86)stitches remain. Work 3 rows straight.
Continue in ridge pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 36(38)stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Front:

Work exactly as for the back until 54(56)stitches remain in raglan. Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, divide for neck as follows:-

Next row: k2tog, pattern 15(15), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work in pattern.
Continue shaping raglan on next and every alternate row as before and at the same time shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following 3rd row until 2 stitches remain; k2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 20(22)stitches on a spare needle, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and pattern to the last 2 stitches; k2tog. Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles, cast on 52(52)stitches and work 2½ inches k2, p2 rib, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the last row: [58 (58)stitches]

Change to No 8 needles and work in pattern.
Your first 2 rows will read for both sizes:-

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: p7, k2, * p12, k2; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p7.

Continue in pattern shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 86(86)stitches. Work straight until sleeve seam measures about 19½ inches, ending with same pattern row as you did when you started the raglan on the back.

With right side facing, shape raglan top by casting off 4(4)stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 64(64) stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.

With right side facing, change to ridge pattern as for back and work 2 rows straight, then continue decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 50(50) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 10(10) stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern, and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Neck Band:

Join raglan seams matching patterns carefully.

With the set of 4 No 10 needles and right side facing, start at left raglan seam on front and pick up and knit 18 stitches down left side of neck;
knit across 20(22) stitches on the spare needle, increasing as follows: k2(3), {pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it, knit 4} 4 times, pick up horizontal loop as before, k2(3);
pick up and k18 stitches up right side of neck;
k10 sleeve stitches;
k36(38) stitches from back increasing as follows: k6(7), {pick up and knit to back of horizontal loop as before, k4} 6 times, pick up and knit loop as before, k 6(7);
k10 sleeve stitches: [124 (128) stitches]

Work in rounds of k2, p2 rib for 2½ ins.
Cast off loosely in rib using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neckband in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

23(24)ozs Patons Double Quick Knitting in Golden Beige 6117

Pair each No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm), plus a set of four No 10 (3¼mm)needles, pointed both ends for neck-band.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to 4 ins using No 8 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 38-39(40-41)inches;
actual size seems to be 41/(43)inches.

Length from top of shoulders, 26/(26) inches; sleeve seam, 19½(19½)ins.

Instructions for larger size given in brackets (bold blue). Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size indicate that any standard UK double knitting would work; in the US this yarn weight is probably considered a light worsted.
It's worth checking your tension as, even in the UK, the term double knitting covers a multitude of subtle variations in yarn thickness.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MansChequeredSweaterStitch.jpg

July 2012

Cooler Trend for Summer II

CoolTrend2c.jpg

For an even cooler trend for summer - which seems all too possible this year in the UK - another early sixties light woollen top with bracelet length sleeves (my favourite). This design seems very representative of the 1960s to me, with its plain simplicity and straight body-line, combined with heavier design work emphasising the sleeve.
"...decorative stitches and scooped necklines make pretty tops to wear on summer days..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 3 sizes with the larger sizes; where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back and Front alike.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 132/140/148 stitches loosely and work 24 rows in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.
Make a hem on the next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Purl back.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until work measures 14 ins. down centre, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes: by casting off' 7/5/9 stitches at beg. of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 96 stitches remain.

Shape neck:

Next row(right side facing): k2tog, k16, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: p2tog, purl to end.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain; p2, then k2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 60 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, k16, k2tog.

Next row: purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No. 11 needles, cast on 99/111/111 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: knit.
6th row: * k4, wfd, k2tog; rep, from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
7th row: purl.
8th row: k1, * k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
9th row:
purl.
10th row:
k1, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, repeat from * to last 6 stitches; wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
11th row:
: purl.
12th row:
* k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; k2tog, wfd, K1.
These 12 rows form the lace pattern.
Repeat them 9 times more.
Next row: knit.

Shape top as follows:

1st row: cast off 9, purl to end.
2nd row:
cast off 9, knit to end.
**
3rd row:
p2tog, purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
4th row:
knit.
5th row:
k2tog, * k4, wI.fwd., K2tog; repfrom * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2tog, k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
8th row:
purl.
9th row:
k2tog., k4, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k3; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, k2tog.
10th row: purl.
11th row:
k2tog, * k3, k2tog, wfd, k1; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog.
12th row:
knit.
13th row:
as 3rd row.
14th row:
knit. **
Repeat from ** to ** 2/3/3 times more: 45 stitches remain.
Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Yoke

Join raglan seams.

Stitches for yoke are arranged on the circular needle for easy working but pattern is worked backwards and forwards with a backopening.

Using a spare No 11 needle, divide 60 stitches at back onto 2 needles.

With right side facing and using the circular No 11 needle, knit 30 stitches from left side of back, pick up and knit 11 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of front, k60 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 10 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of back, then knit remaining 30 stitches: 253 stitches

Next row: knit.

Continue as follows:-

1st row: k6, * wfd, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k4, * k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k3, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2, * k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, wfd, k3.
8th row: knit.
9th row: purl.
10th row: knit.
11th row: purl.
12th row: * k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
24th row: * k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
36th row: * k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1: 145 stitches

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows stocking stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off loosely.

Cuffs

With No 12 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 60/66/66 stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 37 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neck border and cuffs in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.
With No 12 needles and right side facing, pickup and knit 35 stitches along right side of back opening.
1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, k2tog, wfd, * k4, k2tog, wfd, repeat from * 4 times more, k2.
3rd row: knit.
Cast off.
Press all seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8/9/9 ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in Powder Blue.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles, and a circular No 11 needle for the yoke.

6 small buttons.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 32-33/34-35/36-37 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21/22/22 inches; sleeve seam: 12 inches all sizes.

Abbreviations

wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

This is a good time to look for fine yarns as all the main companies seem to be offering them in a wider range of qualities and colours.

3 ply weight might be a bit harder to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


CoolTrend1962-23.jpg

Cooler Trend for Summer I

CoolTrend1.jpg

Well we certainly have a cooler trend for summer here in the UK, so this early sixties short sleeved light woollen top might be just the right thing. For myself, I prefer either sleeveless or three-quarter sleeves, (which might prove a relatively simple adaptation), but I think the collar is a very pretty and original design.
"...designs for the warm spells use fine wools and feminine touches for trimming..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 2 sizes with the larger size given in brackets, (bold blue); where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Front

**
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 118 (124) sts and work 1½ (2½) inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 10 (12) sts evenly across the last row. [128 (136) sts]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P21 (25) * k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21 (25).
2nd row: K21 (25), *p2, k8, p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
3rd row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21(25).
4th row: k21 (25), *p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; p2, k21 (25).
5th row: p21 (25), * k2, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1, m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog., psso, k1, m1k, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts., k2, p21 (25).
6th row: k21 (25), * p2, k2, p3, k2, p5, k2, p3, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
7th row: p21 (25), * k2, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2 tog., m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1k, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
8th row: k21 (25), *p2, k1, p5, k1, p5, k1, p5, k1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
9th row: p21(25), * k2, p1, m1p, k7, slip 1, k2tog, psso k7, m1p, p1; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, k2, p21(25).
10th row: k.21 (25), * p2, k2, p15, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
11th row: p21(25), * k2, p2, m1p, k6, slip1, k2tog, psso, k6, m1p, p2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p2l (25).
12th row: k21 (25), * p2, k3, p13, k.3; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
13th row: p21 (15), * k2, p3, m1p, k5, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k5, m1p, p3; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
14th row: k21(25), * p2, k4, p11, k4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
15th row: p21(25) * k2, p4, m1p, k4, slip1, k2tog, psso, k4, m1p, p4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
16th row: k21(25, * p2, k5,p9, K 5; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
17th row: p21(25), * k2, p5, m1p, k3, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k3, m1p, p5; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
18th row: k21 (25), * p2, k6, p7, k6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
19th row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, m1p, k2, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k2, m1p, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
20th row: k21(25), * p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
21st row: p21 (25), * k2, p7, m1p, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1p, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
22nd row: k21 (25), * p2, k8; p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
23rd row: p2l (25), * k2, p8, m1p, slip 1, k2tog, psso, m1p, p8; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
24th row: k21(25), * p2, k19; rep, from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
25th row: p21(25), * k2, p19; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
26th row: as 24th.
27th -30th rows: as 25th and 26th rows worked twice.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until 3 patterns and 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at beg, of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch. at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 100 (104) sts remain. Work one more row in pattern.
**

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row: pattern 43 (45), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work in pattern.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30) sts remain.
Keeping continuity of pattern work straight until 5 patterns and 28 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 10 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 14 sts, pattern to end. Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

BACK SLEEVES

Back

Work as for front from ** to** ; [100 (104)] sts
Continue straight in pattern until back matches front at armhole edge. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9(10) sts at the beginning of the of next 4 rows, then 10 (10) sts at beg, of the next 2 rows. Cast off remaining 44 sts.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 80 (80) sts and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 4 sts evenly across on last row. [84(84) sts] Change to No 10 needles and pattern arranging stitches as follows:

1st row (right side facing): p20, [k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, P7] twice, k2, P20.
2nd row: k20, [p2, k8, p3, k8] twice, p2, k20. .

Continue thus keeping continuity of lace pattern until 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 38 sts remain. Work one row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 sts remain. Work one row and cast off.

Neck Frill

With No 12 needles, cast on 16 sts.

1st row (right side facing): k5, p6, k5.
2nd row: p5, turn, k5.
3rd row: p16.
4th row: k5, turn, p5.
5th and 6th rows: as 3rd and 4th rows.
7th row: k5, p6, k5.
8th row: p5, turn, k5.
9th row: k5, p1, cast off 4, p1, k5.
10th row: p5, turn, k5.
11th row: P6, cast on 4, p6.
12th row: k5, turn, p5.
13th row: p16.
14th row: k5, p6, k5.
15th - 18th rows: as 1st and 2nd rows twice.
19th row: p16.
20th row: k5, turn, p5.
21st - 28th rows: as l3th-20th rows.

Repeat rows 5-28 inclusive 16 times more, then rows 5-20 once. Cast off.

With No. 12 needles, cast on 5 sts and work 23 ins. k1, p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work very lightly under a damp cloth..
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join neck frill neatly; pin into position all round neck so that garter- stitch in the centre of the border and the frill overlap on to main work. Catch down neck edge just below top frill on wrong side, then catch down other edge to main work at garter-stitch border at back of lower frill, (so stitching is hidden by the frill). Thread ribbed strip through slots in neck border and join neatly.



Press all seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8 (9) ozs Patons Nylox Knitting 4-ply in "Palamino"
[Editor's note: I'm guessing a golden beige.]

A pair each Nos 12 and 10 (2¾mm and 3¼) needles.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34-35 (36-37) inches; length from top of shoulders: 20½ (21½) inches; sleeve seam: 3½ (3½) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

m1k: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

Patons Nylox was designed as a sock wool with 25% nylon as the name implies. It was quickly appropriated for children's items as it was hard wearing and fine weight. By the 1960s, nylon was the material of choice, producing almost indestructable knitwear in brilliant non-fade colours - so this versatile nylon-rich wool was an ideal choice for lighter-weight summer clothes.
[Editor's note: Nylon lost its glamour in the1970s when we all went back to nature - everything in moderation, I say.....]

Any standard 4ply yarn is suitable, and currently there are a lot of them about in a good range of colours for grown-ups, such as Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, Rowan Pure Wool 4ply, and Susan Crawford's Excelana 4ply aimed at vintage knitters.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


CoolTrend1962-13.jpg

June 2012

Baby Shawlette

BabyShawletteFront.jpg

This is so very easy to knit and looks so cute over a (Liberty?) cotton baby frock. No idea how practical it is to keep in place, but it has secure back fastening straps and is perfect as a gift or for that special summer baby occasion.

Instructions

The shawlette is worked in garter stitch (every row knitted) throughout. You start your knitting at the bottom of the back and work up towards the neck, where you divide and complete each front section separately. It is designed to cross over at the front, and button into place at the back.

Using No 12 needles, cast on 50 sts and work in garter stitch for ½ inch (approximately 8-9 rows).

Next row(make eyelets): K6; ** wrn, k2tog; repeat from ** to last 6 sts; k6.
Next row:
Knit.

Start to shape the back as follows:

1st row: K6, wrn; knit to last 6 sts; wrn, k6.
2nd row: Knit

Repeat these two rows, (increasing 2 sts on each alternate row), until there are 115 sts. Your work then measures approximately 5¾ inches from the beginning.

Now start to shape the right front, working each side of the neck separately.

Next row: K6, wrn, k40, turn.
Leave the remaining 69 sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, wrn, k2tog; knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, wrn, k3tog, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: Knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k2tog, k5").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches.

Next row (make buttonhole): K2, cast off 2, knit 2.
Next row: K2, cast on 2 over those cast off, knit 2.
Next row: K2tog, k2, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog and pull thread through to cast off.

Now pick up the sts left on the spare needle and join yarn to neck edge where you left off. Cast off 23 sts then, start to shape the left front, by knitting to the last 6sts, wrn, k6 [47 sts].

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to last 8sts; s1,k1,psso; wrn, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, s2,k1,pass 2 slipped sts over; wrn, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to end

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k5, s1,k1,psso").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches, and finishing with a buttonhole as for the right front.

To Make Up

Do not block or press.
Sew in all ends.
Sew buttons to back to attach front straps.

Materials

1 x 40g ball 4ply fingering yarn.

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm ) needles.

2 small buttons.

Tension

30sts x 58rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Size matters

To fit 3-6 months (18-19 inch chest).

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend.
You could use beautifully soft Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, or experiment to make a larger size using Baby Cashmerino (check out with a swatch for both needle size and drape).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here's a view showing you the back.

BabyShawletteBack.jpg

May 2012

Welly Socks

WellySocks1.jpg

It may seem unseasonal to feature thick woolley socks in May but it's been the wettest April for many decades apparently, so it seemed appropriate.
This is a useful pattern for a couple of reasons. One is that it's knitted in Aran weight yarn - though you need several balls so not exactly good for using up scraps; the other is that they are perfect socks for Wellingtons (see the photo - try not to be frightened by the model's excessive yet manly body hair!).
They should be hard wearing as they are knitted to a firm tension, and I have knitted a couple of highly successful pairs in the past (now given away as gifts, so not illustrated).

Instructions.

Cast on 60 sts, 20 on each of three needles.
1st round: * k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round for 5 inches,

Next round: * p3, k1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round until work measures 16 inches.

Shape ankle

1st round: Pattern 10, p2tog; pattern 8, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [58 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1, p4, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures l8 inches.

Next round: Pattern 5, p2tog; pattern 16, p2tog; pattern to end of round. [56 sts]
2nd round: (p3, k1) 3 times; * p4, k1, (p3, k1) twice; * p4, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Repeat last round until work measures 21 inches.

Slip the first 28 stitches on the first needle for the heel, and continue to work with these for the heel.

Divide remaining stitches on two needles and leave for instep.

Shape heel

1st row: k27, turn.
2nd row: p26, turn.
3rd row: k25, turn.
4th row: p24, turn.

Continue thus, working one stitch less on every row until the row ‘p10, turn’ has been worked.

Next row: k10; pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and knit it together with the next stitch, turn.
Next row: p11, pick up the loop which lies immediately below the next stitch and purl it together with the next stitch, turn.

Continue thus working one stitch more on every row until all the stitches are worked onto one needle again. [28 sts]

Next row: k14, thus completing heel.
Mark this point, which is the back of the leg, and the marker for the start of each round.

Slip the instep stitches back onto one needle again, so you have the stitches distributed over the 3 needles 14/28/14, and you are ready to start he next round.
Keep the two lots of 14 stitches in stocking stitch (this will make the sole) and continue the rib pattern in rounds until work measures 6 inches from marked point. If you want to adjust the length of the foot, do so here by knitting more or fewer inches.

Shape toe

1st round (1st needle): knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (2nd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
1st round (3rd needle): k1, k2tog tbl, knit to the end of the round.
2nd round: knit.
Rep. these 2 rounds until 24 sts. remain.
Knit the stitches from first needle and then slip them on to the end of 3rd needle, (12 sts on each needle).

Making up

Graft or cast off the stitches from two needles together.
Sew in all ends.
Press lightly, or shape over a sock shaper.
Fold the ribbing at the top in half to the right side.

Materials

7 x 50g balls Aran weight yarn.

One set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

21sts x 29 rows to 4ins over stocking stitches.

Size matters

Length of foot: 11 inches (adjustable).
Length from top to base of heel: 21 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

k2tog tbl: knit 2 together through back loops (also known as "ssk"; or slip1, knit1, pass the slipped stitch over).

A Word
on the Wool.

Original yarn was Patons Capstan which was their standard Aran weight pure wool. I used a vintage Robin Tweed pure wool when I knitted my version.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WellySocks2.jpg

April 2012

Easter Bonnet

AliceBandBonnet3.jpg

This type of bonnet was very popular in the 1950s - at least it was much favoured by Paton and Baldwin, using their Fuzzy Wuzzy angora**. I think, following the 1940s roll, it went with the more modern shorter hairstyles, and was possibly the half-way house to what was essentially the demise of the hat for everyday wear. Anyway - I am sure they explored every possible variation on this basic style.

**Perhaps not the best marketing brand for today's knitters.... However, angora wool is very light weight and was sold in half ounce balls; this gives you the clue that it was relatively expensive, so a tiny little cap - or perhaps bolero - was ideally affordable. (And did I mention fluffy? even I - never allergic to anything - am prone to fits of sneezing when wearing angora).

Note that there are two versions of the bonnet for different yarn weights.

Instructions for the double knitting bonnet

Pattern stitch is worked over 6 rows:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k3, p3; leave wool forward (wfd), k2tog; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, k3, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
3rd row: * p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.

[Editor's note: The above pattern repeat of 6 rows is as given in the original instructions. If you compare the photo below with my version, you will see the eyelet arrangement is slightly different between the two. I worked (k2tog, wrn) and then (wrn, k2tog) alternately on the right side rows; this does not fit with the 6 row repeat of the mock cables. I have not written out my resulting 12 row repeat for you, but if you want to do this it is quite simple to keep track of the two patterns as you knit, one having a 4 row repeat, and the other, a 6 row repeat. Knit to the correct number of rows overall, and make sure you keep it consistent when you get to the decrease rows. ]

AliceBandBonnet.jpg

To Make:

Cast on cast on 64sts using the knit cast-on method to give a loose edge. Work 9 rows in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), ending with a knit row. Now make the hem for the hair-band casing as follows:

Hem row (purl side facing, which is the right side of the work): Fold the hem so that the cast on edge is aligned at the back of the needle containing your working sts; * knit one stitch on the needle with one loop from the cast on edge; repeat from * to end.
Next row(wrong side facing) : knit.

Now commence the pattern - work the 6 pattern rows five times.

Start the shaping:

31st row (first shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k3, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [56sts]
32nd row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
33rd row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p2, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
34th row: as 32nd row.
35th row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
36th row: as 32nd row.

37th row (second shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [48sts]
38th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
39th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p1, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
40th row: as 38th row.
41st row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p1, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
42nd row: as 38th row.

43rd row (third shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k3tog, k2, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [40sts]
44th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k1; * p4, k1; repeat from * twice more; p3, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
45th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wfd, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso; repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
46th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; purl to the last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.

Next row: Cast off 9sts; knit to the last 9sts; cast off 9 and fasten off.
Thread a strand of wool through the remiaing sts, draw up and fasten off.

To Complete

Pin out and press the work lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join the cast-off edges together to form the centre back seam.

With the right side of the bonnet facing you, join the wool to one side edge, at the inner edge of the hem (ie do not crochet the ends of the hem together, as you need to thread your plastic hair band into it), and work one row of double crochet all around the neck edge, finishing atthe same position on the opposite side of the front. Draw the edge in slightly as you work.
Turn the work and and work 1dc into each dc of the preceding row.
Run 4 rows of elastic thread through the wrong side of the dc edging and draw up the threads to measure about 11 inches, or more if necessary.

Slip the hair band through the front casing, and then seam the short ends to close it off.

Sew in and neaten all ends.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs double knitting wool.

One pair of No 7 (4½mm) needles. One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

1½ yards elastic thread.

A plastic hair band.

Tension

21 sts and 29 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit "an average head".
[Editor's note: I suggest that the fit will mainly be controlled by the size of the purchased head band, although I note from the photos that the DK version seems to fit more snugly than the 3-ply.]

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: knit two stitches together.
wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward
wtb: wool to back
s1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn Sirdar Majestic.

I used Phildar Partner 6 in a lovely red shade, (50% nylon, 25% wool, 25% acrylic).
The stated 2oz required is about 56g. A standard DK 50g ball is usually around 90-100m and this should be sufficient. Partner 6 has 66m/71yds per 50g and I needed more than one 50g ball.
Partner 6 is an Aran weight - almost even chunky - yarn.
Consequently I used No 8 (4mm) needles thinking this would still turn out slightly larger than intended. However this combination produced the required tension spot on - and actually I wish it were a shade larger. It is definitely the incorporated Alice Band that keeps this type of hat firmly on your head.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.



Here is the same bonnet in a finer yarn. Normally, I would say finer yarns make a better result, (I know: "it depends"...). However, I actually prefer the double knit version of this style which seems better proportioned.

AliceBandBonnet2.jpg

Instructions for the 3-ply bonnet

Pattern stitch is worked over 6 rows:

1st row (right side facing): * p5, k3, p5; leave wool forward (wfd), k2tog; repeat from * to last 13sts; p5, k3, p5.
2nd row: * k5, p1, k1, p1, k5, p2; repeat from * to last 13sts; k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
3rd row: * p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * to last 13sts; p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.

To Make:

Cast on cast on 103sts using the knit cast-on method to give a loose edge. Work 11 rows in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), ending with a knit row. Now make the hem for the hair-band casing as follows:

Hem row (purl side facing, which is the right side of the work): Fold the hem so that the cast on edge is aligned at the back of the needle containing your working sts; * knit one stitch on the needle with one loop from the cast on edge; repeat from * to end.
Next row(wrong side facing) : knit.

Now commence the pattern - work the 6 pattern rows eight times.

Start the shaping:

49th row (first shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p3, k3, p3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [93sts]
50th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k4, p1, k1, p1, k4; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
51st row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p4, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p4; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
52nd row: as 50th row.
53rd row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p4, k3, p4; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
54th row: as 50th row.

55th row (second shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p2, k3, p2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [83sts]
56th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
57th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
58th row: as 56th row.
59th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
60th row: as 56th row.

61st row (third shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k3, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [73sts]
62nd row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
63rd row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p2, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
64th row: as 62nd row.
65th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
66th row: as 62nd row.

67th row (fourth shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [63sts]
68th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
69th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p1, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
70th row: as 68th row.
71st row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p1, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
72nd row: as 68th row.

73rd row (fifth shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, k1, k3tog, k1; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [53sts]
74th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p3, k1; repeat from * to the last 16sts; p3, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
75th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso; repeat from * to the last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
76th row: as 74th row.
77th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.

Next row: Cast off 13sts; knit to the last 13sts; cast off 13 and fasten off.
Thread a double strand of wool through the remiaing sts, draw up and fasten off.

To Complete

Press and complete as for the double knitting version of the bonnet.

Materials

Original materials called for: 1oz of 3-ply fingering wool.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

1½ yards elastic thread.

A plastic hair band.

Tension

30 sts and 44 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit "an average head".
[Editor's note: From the photo this bonnet seems to work out larger than the DK version. That is: the gathering or "drawing in" at the neck edge seems to be more pronounced. Normally I would say that the "fine" knitting produces a nicer result than chunkier but I think I prefer the DK version in this case.]

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: knit two stitches together.
wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward
wtb: wool to back
s1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

dc: double crochet.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn Sirdar Majestic.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2012

Norwegian-style Zippers

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

This pair of cool cats are really going places. (You can tell - they've got a map and goggles and a scooter and .... everything.
The jackets are plain stitch with a fair-isle yoke, and as the title suggests, a zip closure at the front. Sizes are not very large as the pattern seems to be intended to appeal to the youth of the day. (Small hope I fear).

"Gay Patterning for him and her in to-days fashion" [sic]

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked separately then joined to work the yoke. A simple pattern around the yoke is worked from the charts. The sleeves are set-in, not raglan.

Back:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 124 {136}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 6 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 10 {8}; repeat from * 10 {14} times; inc. in next st, rib to end. [135 {151}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures 12½ {13¾} ins from the beginning.

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of the next and every alternate row until 103 {113} sts remain. Work 10 {16} rows.

Shape Back Yoke as follows:

Next row: Work across 46 {49} sts, cast off 11{15}; work to end.

Continue on this group of 46 {49} sts as follows:
Cast off 2 sts at the neck edge on every alternate row until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts. until work measures 7½ {8¾} ins from beginning of armhole shaping. Cast off.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of sts, and complete to match the other side.

Right Front:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {70}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 8 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 11 {9}; repeat from * 4 {6} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [69 {77}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the back up to the armhole, finishing at the side edge (at the end of a knit row).

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next and every alternate row until 53 {58} sts remain.

Continue straight on these sts until work measures 2 {2½} ins from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at the front edge (after a purl row).

Shape Back Yoke by casting off 7 {9} sts at the beginning of the next row. Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of every alternate row at the neck (front) edge until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts until work measures the same as the back up to the cast off. Cast off.

Left Front:

Work to match Right Front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {68}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 {3} ins.

Next row: Rib 5 {6}, * inc. in next st, rib 5 {4}; repeat from * 9 {11} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [74 {80} sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch increasing 1 st at both ends of the next and every following 8th row until there are 104 {114} sts.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 {18½} ins from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next row 6 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next row 8 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 50 {60} sts remain; then decrease 1 st at both ends of every following 3rd row until 26 {36} sts remain.

Cast off 4 {6} sts sts at the beginning of the next row 4 rows.
Cast off.

Front Bands (work 2):

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 5 sts.

1st row: K2, p1, k2
2nd row: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 14½ {16½} ins from the beginning (when slightly stretched). Change to main contrast, Royal Blue {Brown} and continue in rib until Band measures 19 {21} ins, from the beginning (when slightly stretched), finishing at the end of a 2nd row. Slip thesse sts on to safety-pin and leave.
Do not break off wool on 2nd Front Band.

Yoke:

Join back to fronts at the (tiny) shoulder seams.

With right side of work facing, using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, knit up 289 {369} sts around the yoke, then turn and purl one row.

Work the 1st to 13th rows from Chart A.

Chart A - her colourway

Chart A - his colourway

From here ensure you work the decrease rows according to the size you are knitting.

14th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue p13; (p2tog, p7) 30 times; p6. [259 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p2; (p2 tog, p9) 3 times; (p2tog, p6) 37 times; p2tog; (p9, p2tog) 3 times; p3. [{325} sts].

15th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, k1B.

Work the 16th to 23rd rows as rows 1 to 8 from Chart B.

Chart B
Left: her colourway.       Right: his colourway.


24th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p6; (p2tog, p3) 50 times; p3. [209 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p3; (p2 tog, p7) 5 times; (p2tog, p2) 57 times; p2tog; (p7, p2tog) 5 times; p2. [{257} sts].

25th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, k1Py.

Work 26th to 37th rows as the 2nd to 13th rows from Chart A.

38th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue, p6; (p2tog, p5) 3 times; (p2tog, p1) 51 times; (p2tog, p5) 4 times; p1. [151 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p4; (p2 tog, p3) 10 times; (p2tog, p1) 49 times; p2tog; (p3, p2tog) 10 times; p4. [{187} sts].

39th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, k1B.

Work 40th to 47th rows as the 1st to 8th rows from Chart B.

48th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p2, (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p4; (p2tog) 40 times; (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p5. [99 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p11, (p2tog) 82 times; p12. . [{105} sts].

49th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, k1Py.

50th row (both sizes): Using Royal Blue {Brown}, Purl.

Slip the 5 sts at the top of the Front Band where the wool was not broken off on to end of the needle containing the Yoke sts.

Proceed for Neckband as follows:

Using Royal Blue {Brown}, k2, p1, k1, p1 across these front band sts; knit across the Yoke sts; slip sts from top of 2nd Band on to empty needle, and p1, k1, p1, k1, k2 across these sts. [109 {115} sts]

1st row: * K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 2 {2} ins from beginning of neckband.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a flat seam for the ribbing and a back-stitch seam for the remainder, join side and sleeve seams.

Stitch Sleeves into position.

Flat stitch Front Bands into position.

Fold Neckband at centre and stitch down on wrong side of work. Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

12 {14} oz balls in main shade and 2 oz of main contrast and "oddments" (about ½ oz) of each of 5 contrast colours, of 4-ply fingering yarn.

Pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

20 {22} inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Ground shade in oatmeal.

His: Brown, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Royal Blue.

Hers: Royal Blue, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Brown.

Tension

30sts x 38 rows to 4 ins on No 11 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-36 ins ("women") and 38-40 ins ("men").
Length at centre back: 21 {23} ins.
Sleeve seam: 18 {18½} ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Purple Heather 4-ply. In this pattern era it was probably pure wool - later they used Purple Heather as a brand for a blended yarn. (So check if you buy vintage on eBay).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Her colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets3.jpg

His colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets4.jpg

March 2012

Simply Seventies Zip Jackets

ZipperedJackets1286.jpg

Another take on the zipped jacket from a later era. This design is easier than the Norwegian-style jacket in its construction, and uses a heavier (double knitting) weight yarn, which makes for a quicker knit. The patterning is simpler too - knitted straight, that is, without having to worry about incorporating increases and decreases into the design as you knit.

Instructions

Instructions are given for seven sizes - larger sizes indicated in brackets.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 73 [79 : 85 : 89 : 95 : 99 : 105] sts and work 14[14 : 14 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 18] rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until work measures
11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, ending on right side. Break off main shade, (A), and join in first contrast, (B).

**
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end. Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, k1B repeat from * to last 2 sts, p1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end. Break off yarn B, join in A.
**
5th row: Using yarn A knit to end.
Work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Break off yarn A, join in B.

Proceed as follows:
Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work from 1st to the 13th row from Chart A, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart A (see end for slightly larger view)

Break off yarn C, join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A k1. purl to last st, k1.
Next row: S1, knit to end. Break off yarn A.

Proceed as follows:
repeat from ** to ** once.
Next row: Knit to end.

Cont in stocking stitch until work measures 16½ [18½ : 20½ : 23 : 23 : 23 : 23] ins, ending on a wrong side.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts at the beginning of the next 4 [4 : 4 : 2 : 2 : 4 : 4] rows.
Cast off 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts at the beginning of the next 2 [2 : 2 : 4 : 4 : 2 : 2] rows.
Castoff rem 23 [23 :23 : 25 : 25 : 25 : 25] sts.

Left Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, k1, purl to last st, k1.

Keeping continuity of stocking stitch and garter stitch border throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the begining of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, k1C, * p1B, p1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge sts in garter stitch, and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th row from Chart B, working size required as indicated. The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart B


Break off yarn C, and join in A.

1st row: Using yarn A k2, purl to last stitch, k1.

2nd row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): S1, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): lncrease once in first stitch, knit to end.
37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes: Break off yarn A.

Shape Neck
1st row: Using yarn B, cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from *to last 3 sts, k1B, k2tog C.
3rd row: K2togB, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2sts, p1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
4th row: S1, purl to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts.

Right Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the beginning of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, k1, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Keeping continuity of garter stitch border and stocking stitch throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A k2tog, knit to end.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge stitches in garter stitch, joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th rows from Chart C, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart C


Break off yarn C, and join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A k1, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Shape Neck

Next row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to last 2 sts, increase once in next stitch, k1.

For all 7 sizes
Break off yarn A.

1st row: Using yarn B, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: K2togC, * k1B, k1C, repeat from *to last stitch, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1C, k2togB. Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, k2tog, knit to end.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a right side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: S1, knit to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: S1, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts purlwise.

Sleeves (both alike):

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on 41 [41 : 41 : 43 : 43 : 43 : 43] sts, and work 16 [16 : 16 : 20 : 20 : 20 : 20] rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing once at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th [10th : 8th : 6th : 6th : 6th : 6th] rows until there are 51 [51 : 53 : 63 : 63 : 53 : 53] stitches.
Then increase at each end of every following 6th [8th : 6th : 4th : 4th : 4th : 4th] row until there are 57 [57 : 63 : 73 : 73 : 79 : 79] stitches.
Continue without shaping until work measures 12½[14½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins. ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Neck

Cast off 7 [7 : 8 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 8 [8 : 9 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 2rows.
Cast off remaining 13 [13 : 13 : 19 : 19 : 19 : 19] sts.

The Collar:

Using No 7 (4½mm) needles and yam A cast on 26 [26 : 25 : 29 : 29 : 29 : 29] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to the last stitch, k1
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
The 1st and’2nd rows form the rib pattern.
Keeping continuity of rib pattern throughout, cast on 8 [8 : 8 : 10 : 10 : 10 : 10] sts, at the beginning of the next 8 rows. 89 [89 : 89 : 109
109 : 109 : 109] sts.
Continue without shaping until side edges measure 4 [4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 5] ins. ending on the wrong side.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Sew up shoulder and sleeve seams. Sew up side seams leaving 6 [6 : 6½ : : 7½ : 8 : 8] ins free to form the armholes.
Sew in sleeves.
With right side of collar to wrong side of work, sew shaped edge of collar evenly all round neck edge.
Sew zip fastener in position.

Press seams.

Materials

7 / 9 / 11 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 x 25g balls in main shade (A) and 25g of each of 2 contrast colours (B and C), of double knitting.

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Open-ended zip of the required length.

Tension

21sts to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 (Actual Size: 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40)
Length: 16½ / 18½ / 20½ / 23 / 23/ 23 / 23 ins.
Sleeve seam: 12½ / 14½ / 15½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
s1: slip one stitch knitwise.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a brushed (fluffy) double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart A (larger)

February 2012

For Weekend Rambles...

Sara-the-Mermaid.jpg

Sara, playing her part again as the ultimate 1950's sweater-girl. Unlike the original model (I'm guessing) Sara knitted this elegant creation herself. It's another shapely close-fitting design and has a deep twisted-rib welt which extends flatteringly high over the waist before the cable pattern begins.

Instructions

Instructions for medium size in round brackets thus (). Large size in square brackets thus []. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to all sizes.

Front:

Using No 11 needles, cast on 84 (88) [96] sts and work 6 inches k2, p2 rib. Change to No 10 needles and work a further 2 inches in rib, increasing (6) [8] sts. evenly across on last row of medium and large sizes only. {84 (94) [104] sts}
Change to No 8 needles and pattern.

1st row (right side facing): * k4, p2; then "twist 2" by knitting into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, and then into front of 1st stitch and slipping both sts off needle together; p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.

2nd row: * p 4, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; p4.
3rd row: As first row
4th row: As second row
5th row: As first row
6th row: As second row
7th row: * p1, twist 2, p2, k4, p1; repeat from * to last 4 sts; p1, twist 2, p1.
8th row: * k1, p2, k2, p4, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k1, p2, k1.
9th row: As seventh row.
10th row: As eighth row

These 10 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 96 (106) [116] sts, and incorporating the increased sts into the pattern as you go.

Work straight until front measures 13½ (14) [14] inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (6) [6] sts at beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 76 (82) [90] sts remain. Workstraight until front measures 18½ (19) [19½] inches at centre.

With right side facing, divide for neck:

Next row: Pattern 29 (32) [34], k2tog; turn and leave remaining sts on a spare needle. Continue on first 30 (33) [35] sts, decreasing 1 stitch at neck edge on alternate rows until 24 (27) [27] sts remain. Work straight until front measures 21 (21½) [22] inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 (9) [9] sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge). Fasten off.

Then return to the remaining sts on the spare needle, and slip the centre 14 (14) [18] sts on to a spare needle or stitch holder; rejoin the wool to the last 31 (34) [36] sts at the neck edge (right side facing), k2tog, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Back:

Work exactly as for front until armhole shapings have been completed: 76 (82) [90] sts Work straight in pattern over all sts until back measures same as front up to the shoulder.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 (9) [9] sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; leave the remaining sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves:

Using No 11 needles, cast on 52 (52) [56] sts and work 4 inches in k2/p2 rib. Change to No 10 needles and continue in rib until 8 inches have been worked from the start, increasing 2 (2) [8] sts. evenly across on the last row: 54 (54) [64] sts taking increased sts into the pattern as you go.
Work straight until sleeve measures 18 (18) [18] inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 (5) [6] sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 34 (34) [36] sts remain, then at each end of every row until 24 (24) [24] sts remain.

Cast off.

Neckband:

Join right shoulder seam. With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and k. 92 (92) [96] sts all round neck, including those on spare needle at front and back. Work 1 inch k2/p2 rib; change to No 11 needles and work a further inch in rib.

Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the pattern. Join side, left shoulder and sleeve seams; insert sleeves. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 15 (15) [16] ozs. Patons Moorland
Double Knitting in White. A pair each No. 8, No. 10

Example knitted in Posh Yarn Martha DK - just over 4 x 100g skeins.

1 pair each of No 8 (4mm), No 10 (3¼ mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 33-34 (35-36) [37-38] inch bust; length from top of shoulders, 21½ (22) [22½] inches; sleeve seam, 18 (18)
[18] inches.

Abbreviations

twist 2: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, and then into front of 1st stitch and slip both sts off needle together.
k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Moorland which is a double knitting, yarn. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

16oz is about 9 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

50smodel.jpg

December 2011

Sideways Stash Socks

HoneycombBedsocks.jpg

Father George: so fond of his bedsocks that they get worn out. [Since he is not bedridden I can only surmise he does not restrict their use to the bedroom!] Hence - by request - here are some more.

The patterned section of the sock is knitted sideways using a variation of a honeycomb stitch; it's an opportunity to use up really small amounts of double knitting yarn. I rotated 4 contrast colours but you could use a different colour for every set of rows; the key is to keep some consistency in the main colour.

Instructions.

The first section of these socks is knitted sideways making a "T" shape where the upright of the "T" is the upper foot, and the cross bar curls around the leg to form the cuff, meeting at the back seam.
The second section knits the heel and then sole of the sock. These two sections are worked on 2 needles.
Then for the toe, you pick up the stitches from the first 2 sections, and knit in the round on 4 needles, and finally you pick up stitches at the top of the sock and knit the welt, also in the round.

First section (knit 2)

Starting at the back leg seam, with main shade (M) cast on 23 sts on 2 needles and knit one row. Commence pattern.

Join in contrasts (C1, C2 etc):
1st row: Using C1, p3 * sl1, p3; repeat from * to end of row
2nd row: Using C1, k3 * sl1, k3; repeat from * to end of row
3rd row: As first row.
4th row: As second row.
5th row: Using main shade (M) purl across all sts.
6th row: Using C2, k1, sl1, * k3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
7th row: Using C2, p1, sl1, * p3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
8th row: As 6th row.
9th row: As 7th row.
10th row: Using main shade (M) knit across all sts.

Repeat rows 1-10 using different contrasts, once more.

Next row(wrong side facing): Cast on 40 sts, and then work across them and all sts, as for 1st row of pattern. [63sts]
[Editor's note: If you want a shorter or longer foot length cast on more or fewer stitches here. Reduce or add sts in multiples of 4, which is about ¾ of an inch]

Continue to work the pattern on these 63 sts, working rows 1-10 three times, and then rows 1-4.

Next row(wrong side facing): Using main shade, cast off 40 sts, and purl across remainder. [23sts]

Continue to work the pattern on these 23 sts, working rows 6-10, then rows 1-10 once, times, and then rows 1-4.
Cast off purlwise using main shade (centre back seam).

Second section (heel and sole).

The remainder of the socks are worked entirely in the main shade.

For the heel: with right side of the first section facing, oriented like an upside down "T" pick up 11 sts from each side of the instep:

Pick up and knit 11 sts from the left side first, ending at the cast on edge (which will be the centre back, and then turn the work over and bend round the second side, and pick up 11sts from the right side. The sock cuff now forms a circle with the back seams together, but not yet sewn.

Turn and purl 1 row across these 22 sts.

Next row(right side facing): * Sl1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more.

Turn the heel:

Next row: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.

Continue to work short rows and decrease in this way until all sts have been incorporated. [14sts].

Next row(right side facing): Sl1, k13, pick up and knit 13 sts down side of heel. Turn.
Next row: P27, pick up and purl 13 sts down other side of heel. Turn.

Now work the instep decreases and sole:

Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1. Turn.
Next row: Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 22 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you want to make the sock for a narrower foot circumference then decrease a few more sts here. About 6 sts for an inch.]

Continue to work a further 50 rows to make the sole - upper and lower foot sections should be about the same length.
[Editor's note: if you altered the sock length by casting on more of fewer than 40 sts, then adjust the number of rows you knit here. For every 4 sts different in the first section, allow 5 rows difference in the sole.]

Toe

Now we move to working in the round.

Knit 11 sts on first double-pointed needle, 11sts on second, then with right side facing, using third needle, pick up and knit 24 sts across the toe edge of the first section.
Complete the round, knitting 11 sts from first needle then 11 sts from second. Knit one more round.

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1. Complete the round by knitting the 11 sts on each of the first and second needles. [44 sts]

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1; on first needle, k1, sl1, k1 psso; knit to end; on second needle, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16sts remain.
Slip the sts from the second needle on to the first and graft the sts together with those on the third needle.

Making up

Sew seams on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Using double pointed needles and main shade, pick up 60-66 sts round top of sock and knit a k3/p3 rib for about 8 rows (or as long as you want), to form the welt. Cast off loosely.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of double knitting yarn, and a variety of left over DK colours.

One pair and one set of four No 8 (4mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

22 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (olive).
C are contrasts.

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used Phildar Oxygene in olive for the main colour, and a 4 other colours for the contrast - you could have every colour change (15 colours) different if you wanted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Fifties Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The third (and final) fair-isle design for November is a 1950s or early 60s cardigan in a double knitting weight yarn. No clues as to the original colour scheme here, and although for today it would seem appropriate to go with the grey palette, I am sure the original would have been more colourful.

Instructions

The Back and Fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Back and Fronts:

Using No. 10 (3¼mm) needles and light colour, cast on 146 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ ins.
Next row (wrong side): Rib 9; (increase in next stitch, rib 15) 8 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [155 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl
3rd row: K39, m1, k1, m1, k75, m1, k1, m1, k39.
4th row: Purl
5th and 6th rows: As 1st and 2nd
7th row: K40, m1, k1, m1, k77, m1, k1, m1, k40.
8th row: Purl
9th and 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd
11th row: K41, m1, k1, m1, k79, m1, k1, m1, k41.
12th row: Purl
13th and 14th rows: As 1st and 2nd

Continue increasing in this manner on next and every following 4th row until there are 183 sts.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 11½ ins, from beginning, finishing at end of a knit row.

Next row: P7, (increase in next stitch p12) 13 times, increase in next stitch, purlto end. [197 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 from Chart (odd rows knit, even rows purl), working bracketed repeat 7 times across row and odd stitch at end of
knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on Chart throughout.

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (17th row of chart): Pattern 44 cast, off 10, pattern 88 (there now being 89 sts. on needle after cast-off); cast off 10, pattern to end.
[Editor's note: So you have 3 groups of sts on the needle - 44 then 89 then 44]

Proceed on first group of 44 sts. for first front as follows:

Keeping pattern correct by working rows 18 to 30 inclusive of Chart, shape armhole by decreasing 1 st. at armhole edge on next and every alternate row until 39 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows, thus completing pattern from Chart.

Using darker colour for remainder of front, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5 ins, from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at front edge.

Shape neck: by casting off 4 sts. at beg. of next row.
Decrease 1 st. at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 30 sts. remain.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 7 ins, from beg. of armhole shaping, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next and every alt, row until all sts. are cast off.

Rejoin wool to next group of 89 sts. and proceed for Back as follows:

Keeping pattern correct from Chart, shape armholes by decreasing 1 st at both ends of next and every alternate row until 81sts remain. Continue on these sts. until work matches first front up to shoulder shaping.
Shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next 6 rows.
Cast off all remaining sts.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of 44 sts. and complete to match first front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No. 10 needles and Light, cast on 50 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 inches.
Next row: Rib 5; (increase in the next stitch, rib 9) 4 times; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [55 sts]

Change to No. 7 needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 st. at both ends of 5th and every following 9th row until there are 73 sts.
Continue on these sts until work measures 15½ ins, from beginning finishing at the end of a knit row.

Next row: P3; (increase in the next stitch, p5) 11times; increase in the next stitch; purl to end. [85 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 inclusive from the chart, noting that bracketed repeat is worked 3 times across row, and odd st. at end of knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on chart throughout.

Keeping pattern correct from chart until 30th row of chart has been completed, and working remainder of sleeve in dark colour, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 43 sts remain, and then on every alternate row until 33 sts remain, and then on every following 3rd row until 29 sts remain.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Right Front Band:

Using No. 10 needles and light colour, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: K2; (p1, k1) 4 times; k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times; k1.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row (make buttonhole): Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
6th row: Rib 4, cast on 3, rib to end.

Continue in rib working a buttonhole as on 5th and 6th rows on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole until 5 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Break off light colour and join in dark.
Still working buttonholes on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole as before, continue in Dark until 7 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Work 16 more rows.
Slip stitches on to a stitch holder.

Left Front Band:

Omitting buttonholes, work to match Right Front Band.

Neckband:

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulders of Back and Fronts.
Slip stitches from top of Right Front Band on to No 10 needle, with right side of work facing, using dark colour, k2, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1 across these sts., using same needle, knit up 71 sts round neck, slip sts. from top of Left Front Band on to No 10 needle, (p1, k1) 5 times across these sts, k1. [93 sts]

Next row: * k1, p1, rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: k2, * p1, k1, repeat, from * to last stitch k1.

Work 3 more rows in rib.
Make buttonhole on next 2 rows.
Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting k1/p1 rib, with wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges.
Omitting k1/p1 rib, press each piece very lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

"In order to preserve the lovely crepe appearance of Totem fabrics, these must be pressed very lightly as over-pressing will spoil the appearance of the finished fabric."

Using a flat seam for k1/p1 rib, and a back-stitch seam for remainder, join sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position. Flat stitch front bands into position.
Attach buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

12 oz in light colour and 6 oz in dark colour in double knitting yarn.

[Editor's note: 1oz = 28g.
See "a word on the wool".]

Two No 10 (3¼mm) and two No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

21sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 34-36 inch bust. Length from shoulder to lower edge, 21¼ ins. Sleeve seam, 18 ins.

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
m1p: make one st by picking up loop between sts and purl into back of it.
kb: knit into back of stitch
pb: purl into back of stitch
tog: together
tbl: through back loops
inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch
dec:decrease by working 2 sts. together

"Stranding" in Fair Isle

In working designs using two or more colours, you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
Do not strand colours over more than 5 sts. When a loose thread must pass over more than 5 sts. weave it over and under the colour in use at centre point of the sts. it passes over.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem, or Moorland which are
double knitting, yarns. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

12oz is about 7 x 50g balls and 6oz is about 4 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in a small size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Ski Slope Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The second nordic-style sweater for November in a slightly lighter weight yarn. Like the previous design it has a straight inset sleeve, as well as the bright ("modern") colour combination of the 1980s. The pattern includes instructions for plain leg warmers.

Instructions

This pattern uses 3 familiar stitch types:

Double Rib: repeated sequence of k2, p2 rib.
Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row.
Fair-isle stocking stitch, following the chart.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 86 / 90 / 94 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and stocking stitch, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [101/ 105/ 109 sts]. Continue joining in contrast (R) for dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as per the lower section of chart.
When work measures approximately 16¾ inches, change to No 6 (5mm) needles and beg the fair-isle motifs. When work measures 18 inches, shape the armholes by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When the fair-isle motif is complete, change back to No 7 needles and continue in dotted fair-isle until work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 8 at the beginning of the next 2 rows (all sizes).

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes), knit 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn leaving the remaining sts unworked but still on the needle to pick up in a moment, .
Purl back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts.

Return to the sts still on the needle for the neck and left side. Place the centre 43 sts on a stitch holder for the back neck, and then rejoin yarn to the remaining sts and knit 1 row.

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes) purlwise, purl 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn, knit back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts purlwise.

Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 90 / 94 / 98 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as for the back, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [105/ 109 / 113 sts].
Change to No 6 (5mm) needles when you work the fair-isle motifs just as you did on the back section.

When work measures 18 inches (same as back to armhole), shape the armholes by casting off 8 / 9 / 10 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When work measures 25½ / 26 / 26½ inches, shape neck:
leave centre 23 sts on spare needle and continue each side separately, casting off at neck edge on every alternate row as follows: 3 sts (once), 2 sts (twice) and 1 st (3 times) [23 / 24 / 25 sts].

When work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches, work shoulder shaping as you did for the back, casting off at armhole edge on every alternate row as follows: 8 sts (twice), 7 / 8 / 9 sts (once).

Sleeves:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 54 / 58 / 62 sts work 3½ inches in double rib.

Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle, increasing 17 sts evenly across first row [71 / 75 / 79 sts].

Increase 1 st at each end of every 8th row 9 times, [89 / 93 / 97 sts]. When work measures approximately 11½ / 12½ / 13½ inches, . (11 change to No 6 needles and work the fair-isle motifs.

Cast off when you have completed the second border pattern, before you start the dotted fair-isle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

Stitch one shoulder seam. Using No 9 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 98 / 102 / 106 sts evenly round neck. Work inches in double rib.
Cast off.

Stitch second shoulder seam and neck border seam.

Sew in sleeves.

Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Materials

13/14/15 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 4/5/6 balls contrast colour (red)/

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

18½sts and 21 rows to 4 ins using No 7 needles over dotted fair-isle stocking stitch (lower section of chart).

Size matters

The sweater has instructions for 3 sizes, which are intended to be for men or women as follows: man's to fit chest: 40/42/44 inches; woman's to fit: 34/36/38 inches (size 12/14/16 UK size).

Actual size seems to be 43/45½/47 inches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Pingouin Monsieur, or Sport yarn.

It was a synthetic Aran-type yarn knitting to a tension of 17sts and 23 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Charts:

This is the main chart showing the fair-isle design described in the pattern. It leaves a lot to work out yourself, showing the centre point and allowing you to work our where to start your row for each of the sizes.

Working it out yourself is made more difficult since the main panel pattern is a 34 stitch repeat, while the border above and below is a 6 stitch pattern repeat like the dotted body pattern. You can match up your first border with the dots, and use the chart below to see where to start and end your main panel pattern. Then match your second border spacing it the same as the first one.
This is the chart marked with start and end points for the back showing the 3 sizes, and the 34 stitch repeat. The front has 4 extra stitches up to the amhholes, so start 2 sts further out for the front.

This is a similar chart for the sleeve marking with start and end points for the 3 sizes.

[Editor's note: I worked out and drew the charts myself, and made lots of trivial errors before I was satisfied that they were right. So if you are having difficulty with the charts, or if you think there may be a mistake, please do let me know.]



Legwarmers

The legwarmers are worked in rib throughout.

Instructions

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade, cast on 62sts, and work in double rib for 4¾ inches.
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue until work measures 16½ inches.
Change back to No 11 needles and contrast colour, and work a further 2 inches.

Cast off loosely.

[Editor's note: You are working from the ankle upwards; you cast on for the bottom of the item and cast off at the top, so it needs to be loose.]

Stitch the seam using a flat seam technique.

Work a second legwarmer in the same way.

Materials

4 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 1 ball contrast colour (red)

Pair each No 11 (3mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

November 2011

Fashionable Fair-Isle

FamilyFairIsle.jpg

My title refers to the current season's fashion for nordic style sweaters - snowflake, as well as (astonishing to me) reindeer. This sweater's shape betrays its original design era, but that does make it simple to construct - and wear. Update to better reflect the current themes by choosing monochrome colour schemes, using black or greys with cream.
"Traditional motifs in cream make striking winter sweaters; simple easy styling, with straight necklines and drop shoulders, is easy to knit in thick soft yarn on big needles."

Instructions

T-shaped chunky sweater with simple snowflake pattern worked from the charts.

Back and Front alike:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 47 / 51 / 55 / 59 / 63 / 65 / 71 / 73 / 77 sts and work in K1/P1 rib for 2½ / / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / / 3½ inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row (wrong side): Rib 3 / 3 / 5 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6; m1; * rib 8 / 9 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 11 / 12 / 9 / 13; m1; repeat from * to last 4 / 3 / 5 / 5 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 5 / 6 sts; rib to end. [53 / 57 / 61 / 65 / 69 / 71 / 77 / 81 / 83 sts].

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until work measures 13½ / 14½ / 16 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 17½ / 18½ / 19½ inches, ending with a purl row.

1st to 3rd size: Join in contrast colour and work 2 rows.

All sizes:
Next row: Using main shade, knit.
Next row: Using main shade, purl 2 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3, ml; * purl 7 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 9 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 7, ml; rep from * to last 2 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 sts, purl to end. [61 / 65 / 69 / 73 / 77 / 81 / 87 / 91 / 95 sts]

1st to 3rd size: Work rows 1 to 24 from chart A, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 times across and working the first 0 / 2 / 4 sts and last 1 / 3 / 5 sts on knit rows and first 1 / 3 / 5 sts and last 0 / 2 / 4 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart A

4th to 9th size: Work rows 1 to 36 from chart B, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 times across and working first 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts and last 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts on knit rows and first 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts and last 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart B

All sizes: Break main shade, and complete in contrast.

Next 2 rows: Knit.

Next row: K3 / 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 5 / 4 / 2 / 4, k2tog, * k2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 / 2 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 5 / 3 / 6 sts, knit to end. [47 / 49 / 53 / 55 / 61 / 63 / 67 / 69 / 73 sts]

Next row: Knit

Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade cast on 25 / 27 / 27 / 29 / 29 / 31 / 31 / 33 / 33 sts and work in rib as on body sections for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by inc 1 stitch at each end of 3rd / 3rd / next / 7th / next / 5th / 3rd / 9th / 5th and every following 4th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 4th / 4th / 4th row until there are 51 / 51 / 55 / 55 / 59 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 69 sts.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins, ending with a purl row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting garter stitch and ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

When making up a chunky garment it may be easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing.
If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 30 inch lengths and a large needle, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join shoulder seams leaving 7 / / 8 / 9 / 9½ / / 10 / 10½ / 10½ ins open at centre for neck opening.
Join side seams leaving 7 / 7 / 7½ / / 8 / 8 / 9 / 9 / 9½ inches free for armholes.
Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

8 / 8 / 9 / 11 / 11 / 13 / 13 / 14 / 14 x 50g balls in main shade and 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 balls contrast colour.

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 inches; (66 / 71 / 76 / 81 / 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107 cm).
Length from top of shoulders: 20½ / 21½ / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 26½ / 27½ / 28½ ins; (52 / 54 / 58 / 61 / 63 / 66 / 67 / 70 / 72 cm).
Sleeve seam, 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins; (36 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 48 / 48 / 49 / 51 / 51 cm).

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which was a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.

A good substitute in texture and general ethos, might be Rowan's British sheep breeds chunky, which is specified as knitting to a tension of 13sts x 18 rows but on 7mm needles; it is available in a good range of monochrome colours which suit the fashion for the current take on fair-isle. Try a swatch with 6mm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

FamilyFairIsle2.jpg

October 2011

Jacob's Sleeping Bag of Many Colours

JacobsBag.jpg

This is a vintage baby-bag pattern probably intended for babies up to 3 months in age. It's very simple to knit and fastened around the edge with easy poppers. It's tempting to knit this in beautiful, soft, lofty yarns - however, it does need to be washable, if not so very hard wearing.
OK - maybe not so many colours - but so cute!

Instructions

The striped pattern is worked as follows:

1st row: Knit in main shade
2nd - 11th rows: Knit in first contrast
12th row:
Knit in main shade
13th - 22nd rows: Knit in second contrast

These 22 rows are repeated to form the striped pattern.

Body

The body is worked in one piece; you start off knitting short, shaped pieces for the back and front separately then join them both onto one needle. The pattern as written should work out that the stripes match up when you join them together - make sure they do - and you may want to use a circular needle for the 86 stitches in chunky yarn.

Back:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and second contrast (Pink), cast on 25 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 4 rows in pink, 1 row in main (White), 9 rows in first contrast (Sky Blue) and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.

Change to blue yarn for 9 rows:
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
13th row: Knit
14th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [45 sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th row: Knit.

Change to pink yarn and work in sts for 5 rows starting with a purl row.
Leave the sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.
[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Front:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast (Sky Blue), cast on 23 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 6 rows in blue contrast, 1 row in main (White), and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.

Change to pink yarn:
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Knit
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [41 sts]

[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Right side facing, continuing in pink yarn, knit 41sts from front, and then 45 sts from back (stitches on holder). [86 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 20 inches (51cm) - (measure the back segment), ending with a wrong side row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 96-98 rows from start of back. End after 5 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 6th row in blue.]

Right side facing, tie coloured thread or place marker, between the 41st and 42nd sts and between the 84th and 85th sts.

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4sts, work to end, and increase (cast on) 3 sts. [85sts]
Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the front, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Next row(right side facing and keeping striped sequence correct): Cast off 3 sts, k 33 (34sts on needle). Turn, leaving remaining 48sts on a spare needle.

2nd row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [32sts]
3rd row: Cast off 3sts, knit to end. [29sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [27sts]

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th row(and every following knit row up to and including row 13): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row(and every following purl row, up to and including row 14): Decrease 1 stitch, purl to end. [12sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th: Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [11sts]

Change to blue yarn for rest of front:
16th -23rd rows (every row): Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [3sts]
24th row (wrong side facing): Purl (no shaping).
25th row: Decrease 1 stitch, knit to end. [2sts]

The front should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Back raglan shaping:

With right side facing, take up 43sts of the back and leave the remaing 5 sts at the end of the row on a holder.
[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the back, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Keeping striped sequence correct work as follows: cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and one stitch at the beginning of the next 16 rows.
Cast off remaining 15 sts.

With right side facing, take up the remaining 5 sts on the holder, and keeping striped sequence correct work as follows:
[Editor's note: right side facing to begin 8th row of pattern in blue.]

1st row (right side facing): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
2nd row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th and every alternate row until row 13: Decrease 1 st, knit to end.
6th and every alternate row until row 12: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
14th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

Change to blue yarn to complete:
15th - 22nd row (every row): Decrease 1 st, work to end.
23rd row: Knit
24th row:
Decrease 1 st, purl to end.
25th row: Knit
26th row: Decrease 1 st, purl to end.

The work should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Here's a photo of what it looks like (Figure 1):

 

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 26sts. and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, ending with a wrong side row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and striped stocking stitch starting with 1 row of main shade (White). Then work in blue as follows:

2nd - 10th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
11th row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [28sts]

12th row: Purl one row in white.

13th - 20th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
21st row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [30sts]
22nd row: Purl one row in blue.

23rd row: Knit one row in white.

Work 7 rows straight in blue. Work measures 7ins (18cm), ending with right side facing to start raglan shaping.
[Editor's note: Make sure that the pattern sequence matches that of back and front at start of raglan shaping.]

Shape raglan by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1st at each end of every following 3rd row, twice, 6 sts remain.

Cast off.

Hood

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast, cast on 17 sts and work in striped pattern starting with 3 rows of the first contrast.
Continue following the striped sequence until work measures until work measures 6¾ins (17cm), ending with wrong side row, and 6 rows of second contrast.

Cast on 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [39 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 11½ins (29cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of second contrast.

Cast off 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [17 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 18ins (46cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of first contrast.

Cast off.

Here's a photo showing how the hood looks (Figure 2):

 

Front and Hood Band:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 211sts and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, arranged as follows:

1st row: K2 * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: P2 * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch; p1.

End with a wrong side row.

Next row: Knit and leave sts on a holder.

To Make Up

Sew up sleeve seams, and sew raglan seams together.
The left sleeve front seam is from F to Sl and the back seam is from G to Sl; the 6 cast-off sts of the sleeve head sits between F and G (refer back to Figure 1); likewise the right sleeve is set in H-Sr and A-Sr, and the right sleeve head sits between H and A.

Sew up hood seams, bringing together points G and H to make the hood shape as shown in Figure 2 and then sew the back of the hood to the back neck of the body between points G and H in Figure 1.
Sew the left side of the hood from G to F across top of sleeve head and then across to E ending about an inch away from the point E.
Sew the right side of the hood from H to A across top of sleeve head and then a further 2 inches or so down towards B.

With No 6 (5mm) hook and main shade work 2 rows dc along edge of sleeping bag back from E to D and all around to C (refer back to Figure 1), working tightly across the bottom of the back section so that it is slightly gathered and curls up to form the bottom of the bag.
[Editor's note: You also need to work tightly and gather up the corner between E and D near Sl in figure 1.]

Here's a photo of the bottom section of the back of the bag (Figure 3):

Sew on front and hood band stitch by stitch from C all around to A and then around edge of hood from A to E fitting the edge of the band into the corner by the edge of the hood, at point E.

Sew on snap fasteners evenly from C to D to E on right side of work and from A to B to C on wrong side edge of front.

Press all seams heartily. (That is: carefully with a damp cloth).

Sew on decorative buttons if required.

Materials

3 x 50g balls chunky yarn in main colour, (this is the colour of the edging and narrow stripes), and 4 balls each in 2 contrast collours.

A pair each of No 6 (5mm) and a No 4 (6mm) needles.
One No 6 (5mm) crochet hook.

10-12 x 17mm snap fasteners

9 optional decorative buttons.

Tension

13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round: 25 ins, (64cm); Length from back neck: 25½ ins (65cm).

Abbreviations

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The chunky yarn knits to a tension of tension 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.
You can substitute an Aran weight yarn knitted double throughout, (check your tension with a swatch).

I used King Cole Comfort Chunky (100g balls) - 2 balls of each in colours: soft pink, ice, and white.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

September 2011

Catkin Hoodie

A pattern from the mid 1970s, knitted in a bouclé wool called Jaeger Catkin. As it was a speciality wool, I decided to splash out and buy the recommended stuff to get the right effect. Originally, I "improved" the pattern by making bell shaped sleeves, which, I seem to remember, were highly fashionable at the time. I wore it like this, day after day throughout my year in Southampton University in 1977. In the 1980s, I unravelled the sleeves and reknitted them straight.... I can only assume I wore it again at that time.
Although I can still just squeeze into this sweater, it is really too small for me now - which some may consider a Good Thing - but I still love it.

Instructions.

The sleeves and yoke of this tunic are knitted from cuff to cuff and the back and front (knitted in the usual vertical manner) are sewn onto it at the armhole.

Back and Front alike.

Work 2 pieces as follows:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 65 [69 : 73 : 77] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit). Change to No 5 needles, and beginning with a knit row work 6 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Shaping:

Next row: K12 [13 : 13 : 14], k2tog tbl, knit to the last 14 [15 : 15 : 16]; k2tog; knit to end.
Work 17 rows in stocking stitch.
Rep the last 18 rows once more. 61 [65 : 69 : 73] sts.
Cont in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures 18½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Cast off.

Left Sleeve and Yoke

** Using No 8 needles and main shade (M), cast on 57 [61 : 61 : 65] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch. Break off M. Change to No 5 needles, and join in contrast colour (C). Beginning with a knit row continue in stocking stitch, until sleeve measures 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Place coloured marker at each end of last row.

Work a further 8 [8 : 10 : 10] rows in stocking stitch.


Shape shoulder:

Next row: K28 [30 : 30 : 32], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k28 [30 : 30 : 32]

Work 9 [9 : 11 : 11] rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: K29 [31 : 31 : 33], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k29 [31 : 31 : 33]. {61 [65 : 65 : 69] sts}

Work 13 [15 : 15 : 17] rows in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
**

Divide for neck:

Next row: K30 [32 : 32 : 34], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 15 [16 : 16 : 17] rows. Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining 21 [23 : 23 : 25] sts. Work a further 12 [12 : 12 : 14] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles, join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

Right Sleeve and Yoke

Work as given for left sleeve and yoke from ** to **.

Divide for neck:

Next row: K21 [23 : 23 : 25], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 11 [11 : 11 : 13] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles. Join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and work 16 [17 : 17 : 18] rows. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press the sleeve pieces very lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron on wrong side, omitting the 9 st borders. Join centre back yoke seam.

Neck border:
Using No 8 needles and M, with right side of work facing, beginning at the right front border, knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along right front, knit up one st from corner, (marking this stitch with coloured thread), knit across 10 sts from holder up right side, knit 18 [22 : 22 : 24] sts along back, knit across 10 sts from holder down left side, knit up one st from corner, (mark ing this stitch with coloured thread), then knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along left front. {58 [66 : 66 : 70] sts}
Work 4 rows in garter stitch, decreasing one stitch at each side of the marked sts on next and foil alternate row. {50 [58 : 58 : 62] sts}.

Hood:

Next row: K9 [12 : 12 : 12]; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; (m1, k1 [1 : 1 : 2]) 12 [2 : 2 : 10] times; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; m1; k9 [12 : 12 : 12]. {73 [77 : 77 : 79] sts}.

Change to No 5 needles.

1st row (right side): Knit to end.
2nd row: K4; purl to last 4 sts, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows until hood measures 11½ ins from beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: K4, slip these 4 sts on to a holder, cast off next 20 [21 : 21 : 22] sts; k25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts, (including stitch on needle); k4 and slip these 4 sts on to a holder.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to rem 25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts and beg with a purl row, cont in stocking stitch until side edge fits along cast off edge of hood to within 4 sts on holder. Cast off.

Sew cast off edges to side edge of centre piece.

Left border:
Using No 5 needles, and M, with wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to 4 sts on holder on left side of hood. Cont in g st until extra rows, when slightly stretched, fit across to centre of cast off sts at centre of hood.
Cast off.

Right border:
Work as given for left border.

Join borders and sew in position around hood.
Join side seams.
Join sleeve seams to markers.
Sew yoke edges to cast off edges of back and front.
Press seams.
Using M, make 2 twisted cords with a tassel at each end and sew in position to fasten at neck.

[Editor's note: I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

Materials

10 [11 : 11 : 12] x 50g balls Jaeger Catkin in main shade (M) and
8 [9 : 9 : 10] balls of contrast colour, (C)

[Editor's note: I have knitted the hood in the contrast yarn rather than as the instructions given here, where the hood is in the main shade. If you want to do this, it will alter the required amount of yarn.
Also, I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

A pair each of No 8 (4 mm) and No 5 (5½ mm) needles.

Tension

14 sts and 22 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inch bust.
Length to shoulder: 27 [27½ : 27½ : 28] inches.
Sleeve seam: 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches.

The figures in square brackets refer to the 34, 36 and 38 inch sizes respectively.

Abbreviations

m1: increase by picking up the loop lying before next st and knitting into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
k2tog tbl: (decrease) knit 2 sts together through back loops - also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

Jaeger Catkin was a lovely quality soft bouclé wool. There are a number of good choices for a substitute chunky bouclé these days, including options from Rowan. However, you might have to go with a single colour - which might be more sophisticated - unless you are into dying your own matching colour combination.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


You can see similar patterns - some with front pockets - in the vintage patterns section:


Sweater with hood and stripes


Pattern ID: Hayfield 1271

Mother and daughter tunics


Pattern ID: Hayfield 1241

July 2011

Miss Muffet Pinny

MuffetPinny.jpg

All dressed up in a charming pinafore, suitable for a spring or summer celebration, perhaps, in a lighter cotton-blend 4ply. Alternatively, try an angora or mohair blend for a more wintry festive feel.
The pattern for the dress underneath is also given, although, today, we seem to be fully equipped with central heating everywhere, so this combination may prove to be too hot for most children.

Instructions

The pinafore is worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Panel Pattern over 5 stitches:

1st row: k2, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k1
2nd and every alternate row: purl
3rd row: k1, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1
5th row: as first row
7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows: knit
16th row:as second row
These 16 rows form panel pattern.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 223/239/255 sts. and work 5 rows garter-stitch, that is: every row knit.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows :

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
5th row: k6, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
9th row: knit.
11th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
13th row: k2, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2.
15th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
16th row: as second row

Shape skirt and place panel pattern as follows:

1st decrease row: k5/13/5, (panel pattern 5 as 1st row, k5, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, panel pattern 5 as 1 st row, k5/13/5. [210/226/240 sts]

Keeping continuity of panel pattern, work 11/17/25 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5. [197/213/225 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k3) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5 [184/200/210 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

1st and 2nd sizes: Continue decreasing 13 sts thus on next and following 16th/18th row [158/174 sts].
3rd size: Continue decreasing 15sts thus on next row [195 sts].

All sizes:
Next row (wrong side facing): p18/14/6, p2tog, (p28/34/18, p2tog) 4/4/9 times, purl to end [153/169/185 sts].
Work a few rows straight in stocking-stitch until skirt measures 9½/11/12½ inches, ending with wrong side facing.

Divide for front and backs:
Next row: p21/23/25, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 21/23/25 stitches for right back until work measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 15/17/19 sts.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches from holder; cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole), p43/47/51, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 43/47/51 stitches for front until work measures 12/13½/15½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k8/9/10, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder .
Continue straight until left front measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

Work 1 row straight.

Cast off remaining 2/3/4 sts.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remainiing stitches, cast off centre 27/29/31, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches on holder, cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole) purl to end.

Finish to correspond with right back, reversing shapings.

Shoulder Frills:

With No 12 needles, cast on 103/111/119 sts. and work 3 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles and work rows 1-15 of pattern as for main part.
1st size: Next row: p5, p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 30 times, p6 [72sts].
2nd and 3rd sizes: Next row: p8/8, (p1, p2tog) 32/34 times, p7/9 [79/85 sts].
All sizes: Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.
Sew cast-off edge of shoulder frill along armhole edge, and sides of frill along cast-off edge at beginning of armhole shaping.

Make borders: With right side facing and 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc up left back, round neck and down right back. increasing and decreasing at corners as required.
Make 4 buttonloops on right back on 2nd row, first to come level with cast-off edge at armhole, 4th to come at neck edge, and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond.
To make a buttonloop: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3/3/4 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

4 small buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Eyelet pattern and sleeve frill detail:

MuffetPinnyDetail.jpg MuffetPinnyDetail2.jpg

... and the little dress

MuffetDress.jpg

This is the plain and simple dress designed to go under Miss Muffet's pinafore.

Instructions

This is an A-line dress, knitted completely plain, with a high round neck and long sleeves.

Back

**
With No 12 needles, cast on 114/120/128 stitches and work 5 rows in garter-stitch, that is, every row knit

Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows straight.

1st decrease row: k26/28/30, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k54/56/60, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k26/28/30. [110/116/124 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k25/27/29, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k25/27/29. [106/112/120 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k24/26/28, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k24/26/28. [102/108/116 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and every following 12th/14th/16th row until 82/88/96 sts; remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 12/13½/15 inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 62/68/72 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 56/60/64 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 14/16/17½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for back opening:
Next row: k28/30/32, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder.

Continue straight on first set of stitches until back measures 16½/18½/20½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 2/3/4 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Leaving remaining 14/15/16 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work straight until front measures 15/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k20/21/22, turn and leave remaining stitches on a stitch-holder.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 14/15/16 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight. Cast off remaining 2/3/4 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 40/44/46 sts. and work 7 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles.
Next row: k1/3/2, m1 , (k2, m1 ) 19/19/21 times, k1/3/2: [60/64/68 sts].
Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve measures 9½/10½/12 inches, ending with right side facing,

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing and No 12 needles, start at top of left back and work as follows:-
Knit 14/15/16 from left back, pick up and k12/14/14 down left side of neck, k16/18/20 from centre front. pick up and k12/14/14 up right side, knit across 14/15/16 stitches from right back [68/76/80 sts].
Work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Cast off.

Left Back Border: With 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc along left back edge.
Right Back Border: Work as for left with the addition of 3 button loops, first to come ½ inch above start of opening, third to come at centre of neckband, and 2nd spaced evenly between.
Mark positions and work loops: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.
Sew on buttons.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Run 1 row shirring elastic directly above garter-stitch cuff. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 4/4/5 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

3 small buttons.

Shirring elastic for cuffs.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 16½/18½/20½ inches; sleeve seam: 9½/10½/12 inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2011

Nautical top with buttoned vestee

NauticalTop2.jpg

Mid-fifities fashion in fresh blue and white summer colours. The stripes and buttoning give the design a slightly off-kilter nautical look. My version used a stronger blue than the original.
If you are tantalised by the ghostly image of the other sweater in the background then look at these instructions - it is not actually that very knitted top (the one in the background of the photo above has beads - you'll have to trust me on that), but it is very similar, and also dates from the summer of 1956.

My own version is now complete so the pattern is "checked out", and I hope to add a photo soon.

Instructions

Knitted in 2 pieces with a V-neck, and detachable vestee.
Since the vestee is detachable and the buttons are attached to it, you could have more than one colour scheme, by knitting alternative vestees.
[Editor's note: "Ringing the changes" is a common theme for vintage homemade clothes, which seems like it stems from the 1940s "make do and mend" era, though personally I think the concept of avoiding waste (and sweating your assets!) is a much older set of values - Victorian or earlier.]

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 138sts and work as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k2; (p2, k4) 22 times; p2, k2.
2nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 22 times; k2, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows for 4 inches.
[Editor's note: Because I lengthened the pattern at the shoulders by about 2 inches, I compensated by shortened the pattern here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue for a further 2 inches.

Start centre shaping:
1st row (right side facing): k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; m1p, p2, m1p; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
2nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k4; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
3rd row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p4; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p1, m1p, p2, m1p, p1, (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
6th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k6; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
7th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p6; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, m1k, p2, m1k, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
10th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p1, k2, p1, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
11th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k1, p2, k1, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k1, m1k, p2, m1k, k1, p2, (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
14th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
15th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k2, p2, k2, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
16th row: as 14th.
17th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k2, m1k, p2, m1k, k2, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
18th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p3, k2, p3, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
19th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k3, p2, k3, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
20th row: as 18th.
21st row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k3, m1k, p2, m1k, k3, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
22nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 12 times; k2; (p4, k2) 12 times; p2.
23rd row: k2; (p2, k4) 12 times; p2; (k4, p2) 12 times; k2.
24th row: as 22nd.

Continue thus, keeping continuity of rib and increasing 1 stitch at each side of centre 2 purl sts on next and every following 4th row until there are 180 sts, remembering that when increasing for purl sts to purl into back of loop and when increasing for knit sts to knit into back of loop,that is: the next 2 sets of increasings will be purl and the following 4 sets of increasings knit.
Continue the increasings in this way until 21 sets of increasings have been done in all and there are 180 sts on needle.
Work 3 rows straight.
Tie a contrast thread at each end of the row at this point to mark the start of the armholes.
Now continue centre increasings as before on next and every following 4th row, and at the same time shape armholes by k2tog at each end of next and every following 4th row, 15 times in all (you will still have 180 sts on needle).
Work 3 rows straight.

With right side facing, change to garter stitch, (that is, every row knit),
[Editor's note: I made an adaptation here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
and work 2 rows straight.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the pattern at this point to match the fronts where I created a deeper V - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]

Then, continuing in garter stitch, shape shoulders by casting off 4 sts at beginning of next 10 rows, then 12 sts at beginning of following 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until there are 172 sts.

Work 3 rows straight, then start to introduce the garter stitch at the centre as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Rib 82, k3, m1k, k2, m1k, k3, rib 82.
2nd row: Rib 80, k14, rib 80.
3rd row: Rib 80, m1k, k5; k2tog, wind yarn twice round needle, k2tog; k5, m1k, rib 80.
4th row: Rib 80, k7; (knit and purl into the two twists of wool to make a buttonhole), k7, rib 80.
5th row: Rib 80, k16, rib 80.
6th row: as 5th row.
7th row: Rib 80, m1k, k16, m1k, rib 80.
8th row: Rib 80, k18, rib 80.

Divide for neck:
Next row (right side facing): Rib 80, k9.
Turn, leaving remaining sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: K9, rib 80.
Next row: Rib 80, m1p, k9.
Next row: K9, rib 81
Next row: Rib 81, k9.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Next row: K9, rib 81

Put a coloured marker at the end of the row to mark the start of the armhole.

Continue in rib and garter stitch, shaping the armhole edge only by k2tog at the beginning of the next and every following 4th row, and at the same time make a buttonhole in the garter stitch border on the 2nd and every following 12th row until 5 in all are done, excluding first buttonhole at the centre front.

To make a buttonhole:- With wrong side facing, k2, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, k2tog, k3, rib to end. On the next row: knit and purl into the two twists as before.

When the 5 buttonholes are done, continue in rib and garter stitch, still continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every 4th row until 15 sts have been decreased at this edge, and 75sts remain.

Work 3 rows straight.

Change to garter stitch over all sts,
[Editor's note: I made an adaptation here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
and work 2 rows straight.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the pattern at this point to create a deeper V neck - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]

With right side facing, continue in garter stitch and shape the shoulder by casting off 4sts at the beginning of next and following 4 alternate rows, then 14sts at the beginning of following 3 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining 13 stitches.

With side facing, rejoin wool to remaining sts, and work, to correspond with first shoulder, reversing the shaping.

Vestee

With white wool and No 11 needles, cast on 10 sts and knit 4 rows.

5th row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end.
6th row: K4, p4, k4.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: K3, increase in next stitch, knit to last 4 sts, increase in next stitch, k3.

Work 3 rows straight in stocking stitch, keeping the 4sts at each end in garter-stitch throughout.

Repeat last 4 rows once more. Join in blue.

Next row (in blue, right side facing): K3, increase in next stitch, knit to last 4sts, increase in next stitch, k3.

Work 3 rows straight in blue with border as before.
Rejoin white.
Now continue in stocking-stitch in stripes of 6 rows white and 4 rows blue with border as before and increasing 1 stitch inside the border on next and every following 4th row until there are 42 stitches.

Next row (in white): K4, p34, k4.

This completes the 5th white stripe.

Break white, join in blue and knit 5 rows.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work very lightly taking care not to spoil rib.
Join shoulders with a backstitch seam.

Sleeve Edgings: With right side facing, No 11 needles and contrast yarn, pick up and knit 92 sts between markers on back and front.
[Editor's note: The number of stitches you pick up depends on how large you want to make the armhole; I advise you to pin the side seams together and try on the top before finally deciding where the markers should be.
Once decided, a
s a general rule, pick up sts on 2 out of every 3 row ends on rib section and pick up every alternate row end on the garter stitch section.]

Knit 8 rows; cast off.

Join side seams.
Neaten buttonholes with matching sewing cotton.
Press vestee, then sew on buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 7 ozs Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply in main shade (powder blue) and a small ball (less than 1oz) in white.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles.

11 small white buttons.

My version is knitted in 5 x 50g balls of Adriafil Avantgarde 3 ply using Nos 13 and 12 needles.

Tension

Ribbing is difficult to measure, but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 8 sts and 10 rows to an inch over stocking-stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

m1k: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

I have so many words on the wool I am not sure where to begin.
I started to knit this sweater using the Adriafil Avantgarde 3 ply. I bought 4 x 50g balls at 220 metres each but the back took more than 2 balls and so the project was on hold; I finally acquired another ball in a different dye lot, hence the huge delay in publishing as I had to make adaptations to blend it in. Luckily this will not be the case for you.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

I can suggest looking at Susan Crawford's new Excelana range from John Arbon textiles. I have great hopes of this venture solving my knitting issues in the future: 4 ply available now and hopefully 3 ply in the future.

I have not yet experimented with either of these two latter yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adaptations:

I made quite a few casual adaptations to "improve" the design for my figure - but as usual this had a knock-on effect in some other areas - so I describe what happened here.

Adaptation 1: When changing to garter stitch the ribbing pulls at the garter stitch section and causes puckering. You can see this happening slightly in the original photo. To compensate for this, on the first knit row of the garter stitch (right side facing) I knitted across the 4 knit sts and and the k2tog for the 2 purl sts. This changed the number of sts for the casting off.

So for the Front sections I worked k2tog 10 times on the p2 sections of the rib; I then shaped the shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of next and following 4 alternate rows, then 13sts at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then 12sts at the beginning the final 2 alternate rows.

For the Back, I worked it slightly differently without decreasing across the back of the neck. So I worked k2tog across the first 11 p2 sections of the rib, but incorporated the centre 7 p2 sections into the garter stitch as k2, then k2tog across the last 11 p2 sections of the rib.
For the shoulder shaping I cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 10 rows, then 12 sts at beginning of following 4 rows.

Adaptation 2: I lengthened the garter stitch sections by about 2 inches to make the V neck lower. This was to avoid "waist boobz" (please see Kate's blog, "needled" ** on the subject).

Adding 2 inches at the shoulder, lengthens the whole sweater, so I knitted 2 inches less at the start of the sweater - as it is not overly short in the first place.

Having done this, you may find the armhole markers are (up to 2 inches) too low, so check this before you do the sleeve edging and sewing up the side seams. In my case, I have chubby little arms so wanted the armhole slightly larger in any case.

** Unlike Kate I have a large bosom with a low bust point, so need no assistance in producing waist boobz - in fact I seek to reverse the effect.
Plunging V necks are very flattering for large busts - and this pattern has the advantage that the vestee ensures that the plunge does not lack the appropriate level of decorum for daywear - not that large and revealing bosoms ever seemed a problem in the 1950s - though thinking again I am probably way past the age when women were allowed out to flaunt their figures.

See Kate's lovely design "by-the-sea-shore" where she reverses the "waist boob" effect. It is also an off-kilter nautical design in a way so sits nicely with this entry.

Adapting the size:

The original pattern is for one size: 34-36 inch bust. The sweater is designed to fit snugly, but is ribbed which allows some leeway on the exact fit.

It is designed to be knitted in 3 ply at about 30 sts to 4 inches. I have used a 4 ply at about 28 sts to 4 inches, and the size would have been acceptable for me - a UK size 12 or "medium".

I think this may be suitable for using a thicker yarn with larger needles and getting a larger result.

April 2011

Gloves for a Lady I

LadyGloves1.jpg

A very early pattern to make these charming light weight gloves using fine 2ply yarn. You could also use a mercerised cotton for summer gloves, but (as the pattern encourages) check your tension carefully.
Note that these glove patterns are very elderly and thus you have to make allowances in the instructions. They talk about "plain knitting" and they don't give a lot of explanation about how you turn the work and pick up the stitches. Generally they expect you to fend for yourself; I have not tested this pattern so if you would like to double check what I have written or if you want a second opinion I'm happy to try and help.

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in blackberry stitch (also known as trinity stitch) on 2 needles. The nature of this stitch means that the number of stitches can vary from row to row; this can seem a little puzzling as it means the instructions for the right and left hand gloves seem not to be symmetrical - but they should work out OK.

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

1st row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch; repeat from * to last st, k1.
3rd row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

These 4 rows form the basic pattern.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p32, k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) twice, p3tog, cast on 12 sts, turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.

Break off wool and run end through remaining sts.
Draw up and fasten off securely.


With wrong side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 22 sts, join in wool and knit up 12 sts from 12 cast-on sts at the base of the thumb; p19, k1 across remaining sts.
Commencing at 2nd row, repeat pattern on these 54 sts., until work measures 4 ins, from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p34, increase once in next stitch. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, cast on 2sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch in last row.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p14, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice,

Finish off as given for Thumb.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 2 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p5, increase in the next stitch. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) three times, p3tog, p1; cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then work exactly as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p5, k1.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; k1.
4th row: k1, p16, k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row three times, then 1st row once.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p12, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

The Frill

With wrong side of work facing, pick up 52 sts, from cast-on edge of glove. Join in wool.

1st row: k1, * k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
[Editor's note: I think they may mean garter stitch here - every row knitted.]

5th row: k1, * increase once in next st, repeat from * to last st, k1. [There should now be 52 sts. on needle].
6th row: k1, * k2, p1, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
7th row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
8th row: k1, * k2, p2, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
9th row: k1, * p2, k3, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
10th row: k1, * k2, p3, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
11th row: k1, * p2, k4, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
12th row: k1, * k2, p4, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Continue in this manner until there are 164 sts. on needle.

Next row: k1, * p2, k8, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Cast off knitways.

Left-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

Work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p31, cast on 11 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1. Turn

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Decrease and finish off as given for the Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 21 sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 11 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; p21, k1 across remaining stitches.

Continue in pattern on these 54 sts until wont measures 4 ins from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p35, cast on 5 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog, k1. Turn.

Then work exactly is given for First Finger of of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 5 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p6, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 3 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p6, k1.

Then work exactly as given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 12 (2¾ mm) needles.

Tension

3 patterns (12 sts) to 1 inch. Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5½ ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 8½ ins.

[Editor's note: 5½ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won: wool over needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

p3tog: purl 3 stitches together (decrease 2)

k1p1k1: knit and purl into front, then knit into back of next stitch (increase 2)

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Gloves for a Lady II

LadyGloves2.jpg

From the same early pattern source as Gloves for a Lady I - slightly less lacy but still an open-work light weight design using fine yarn.
Note that these glove patterns are very elderly and thus you have to make allowances in the instructions. They talk about "plain knitting" and they don't give a lot of explanation about how you turn the work and pick up the stitches. Generally they expect you to fend for yourself; I have not tested this pattern so if you would like to double check what I have written or if you want a second opinion I'm happy to try and help.

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in an openwork ladder stitch created by working "yarn over needle" or eyelets on every row.
It reminds me of string-vest patterns from the 1960s (very healthy) - but don't let that put you off...

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 80 sts

Work 2 rows in plain knitting.
3rd row: k1, * p1, won, k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat this row five times.
9th row: * k15, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
19th row: * k12, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
29th row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, * (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of row.
30th row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 30th row 6 times, increasing 2 sts in last row.

Repeat 3rd row thirty-two times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eleven times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) three times; k1; cast on 10 sts loosely. Turn.

Working on these 20 sts, repeat 3rd row twenty-two times (length of
Thumb and Fingers may be varied to suit individual requirements).

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k3, k2tog, k2togtbl, k3) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k2, k2tog, k2togtbl, k2) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.


With right side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 25 sts, join in wool and knit up 10 sts from 10 cast-on sts at the base of the Thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1, won, k2 tog) four times, k1, across remaining 15 stitches.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k14, k2tog, k1.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern thirty times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-eight times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, k1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 14 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern eighteen times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2tog) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

Left-hand Glove:

Cast on 80 sts and work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eight times, p1, cast on 9 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) six times, k1. Turn.

Work on these 20 sts exactly as given for Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 15sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 9 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1,won, k2tog) 7 times, k1, across remaining 24 sts.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Second Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Third Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 14 sts, exactly is given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 13 (2¼ mm) needles.

Tension

10 sts to 1 inch over pattern (not stretched).
Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5 ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 9 ins.

[Editor's note: 5ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won/wfwd: wool over needle/wool forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

March 2011

Paris Line Cardigan

ParisLine1.jpg

Here we have Jill modeling her charming version of the Paris Line Cardigan from January 1955. It is so successful and comfortable to wear she is planning a second version for the summer.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

The Back

With No 9 needles cast on 106 (118) {126} stitches and work 10 rows in k2/p2 rib, starting and ending k2 on the first row, and increasing 7 (7) {11} stitches evenly across on last row by working twice into every 14th (16th) {11th} stitch. [113 (125) {137} sts]
Change to No 8 needles and pattern.

1st row (right side facing): k1, * p3, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1, * k1. p3; repeat from * to last 3 sts., k1, p1, k1.
6th row: k2, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last 3 sts.. p1, k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ (15) {15} inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 89 (97) {105} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 5 (5) {5} sts. evenly across on last row: [94 (102) {110} sts]

Next row (right side facing): * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., k2.
Next row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., p2.

Continue straight in rib until back measures 23 (23½) {23½} inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (11) {11} sts. at beginning of next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

Pocket Linings (make 2)

With No. 8 needles, cast on 26 (26) {30} sts. and work 4½ () {} inches stocking stitch ending with a purl row; leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work another piece the same.

Left Front

Left. With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row: * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more, and on last row increase 2 sts. as follows:
Increase row: k1, (p2, k2) 7 times, increase in next stitch, rib to last 4 sts, increase in next stitch, rib 3: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1; (p3, k1) 10 (12) {14} times; p1; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
2nd row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2, k1; (p1, k3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
6th row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2; (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

Repeat these 8 rows until work measures 5 (5) {5} inches from start.

Next row (insert pocket): Pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7}times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.
Next row: rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; (p2, k2) 6 (6) {7} times; p2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, then 1st row once.

Next row (wrong side facing): rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; cast off 26 (26) {30} in rib; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Next row: pattern 8 (12) {14}; pattern across 26 (26) {30} stitches of one of the pocket linings, in place of those cast off; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.

Continue in pattern with 23 sts. at front edge in rib until front measures same as back at side edge and ending with same pattern row.

Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at armhole edge on alternate rows until 53 (59) {65} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 6 (4) {2} sts. evenly across on patterned part of last row: [59 (63) {67} sts]

Now continue in rib over all stitches until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 (11) {11} stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge; leave remaining stitches on a spare needle for the time being.
[Editor's note: You continue on these stitches later when you make the collar.]

Right Front

With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts; p2, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows once more.
Make buttonhole over the next two rows thus: Rib 5, cast off 3, rib to end and back, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows in rib, increasing 2 sts on last row as follows:

Increase row: rib 3, increase in next stitch, rib to last 28sts, increase in next stitch, rib to end: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

Next row: k3, (p2, k2) 5 times; p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
Next row: k1, (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k1, p2; (k2, p2) 5 times; k1.

Finish to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings and making 4 more buttonholes as before up front edge, the last one to come about 1 inch below start of yoke ribbing, and the remaining 3 evenly spaced between. Mark position of buttons on left front with pins, then work holes to correspond.

The first row of pocket top will read:
With right side facing, rib 23, pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7} times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Sleeves

With No. 10 needles, cast on 54 (54) {54} sts. and work 3 inches k2/p2 rib, having a k2 at each end on the right side, and increasing 3 sts. evenly across on last row: 57 (57) {57} sts.

Change to No 8 needles and work 8 rows in pattern as for back.

Continue in pattern and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73) {73}sts, then on every following 4th row until there are 83 (83) {83}stitches, taking the extra stitches into pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts. at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 45 (45) {45} sts. remain, then at each end of every row until 25 (25) {25} sts. remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Roll Collar: On the left front, continue in rib on the remaining 29 (30) {34} sts. working short rows to provide shaping thus:

** Work ½ (½) {1} inch in rib, ending at the front edge.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib to last 9 sts; turn; rib to end.
Repeat from ** twice more.
Continue straight in rib until piece fits round to centre back of neck; cast off in rib.
Then on the rightfront. Work as for left but with right instead of wrong side facing when shaping.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join collar very neatly, matching ribs carefully; sew along back of neck.

Catch down pocket linings.
Sew on buttons.
Work a row of double crochet, then a row of slip-stitches up front edge and round back of neck.
Press seams.

Materials

Original uses Patons Double Quick Knitting,
in Jade Green.
21 (22) {23} ozs

[Jill used 11 x 50g balls Phildar Partner 3.5]

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 9 (3¾mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

5 buttons.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
33-34 (35-36) {37-38} inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23 (23½) {23½} inches; and
sleeve seam, 18 (18) {18} inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a vintage Bainin yarn.

Jill used Phildar Partner 3.5 (50% Nylon / 25% Wool / 25% Acrylic: 111m per 50g ball).

Jill's plan for the summer version: Phildar Cabotine (55% Cotton / 45% Acrylic: 124 metres per 50g ball)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Stitch Detail

January 2011

Life of Ease

LivingAran2.jpg

Well if you don't actually have the life of ease, this might help you attain it - firstly with the relaxation of knitting it, and then in the casual dress code it will encourage once completed.
This pattern is straight from the 1970s, but does seem to have that timeless quality* about it.
The Magpie Aran yarn is exactly the nutty brown tweed colour I always imagined for the cardigan, (yellow/cream Arans are not a good colour for me). However Magpie, though a very robust wool, soft it is not, and I think this design would be great in a lovely soft airy yarn; luckily there is plenty of choice these days in this kind of wool weight.

* I do admit that I hate that word "timeless"- it seems to be an unwritten rule that once said it will ensure the item to which it applies becomes dated and laughable even more quickly than other items of the same vintage. However, in this case I think it really does apply, and (if it's any comfort) I don't think it was high fashion even in the 1970s, which is probably why it took so long for me to be inspired to finally make it up.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

The Back

With No 9 needles cast on 98 (104 : 110: 116 : 122) sts.
1st row: P2, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: K2, (pbl, k2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then 1st row once, increasing 1st at both ends of last row on lst, 3rd and 5th sizes.

Increase row: K8 (10 : 14: 16: 20), kfb *p7, (k2, pfb) 6 times, k2, p7 *; (k1, p1, then k1, p1 in next st) 4 times, k2; repeat from * to *, kfb, knit to end. [118 (122 : 130 : 134: 142) sts]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * k7, (p2, k2) 6 times, p2. k7 *; p18; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: k10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); * p7, (k2, p2) 6 times, k2, p7 *; k1, (work k1, p1, k1 into next st, p3tog) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to *; knit to end.
3rd row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * cp7, (p2, k2) 6 times, p2, cp7 *; p18; repeat from * to *; (pl, kb1) to end.
4th row: k10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); repeat from * to * as 2nd row; k1, (p3tog, then into next st work k1, p1, k1) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to * as 2nd row; knit end.
5th row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * k7, p2, (c6L, p2) 3 times, k7 *; p18; repeat from * to *; (p1, kb1) to end.
6th row: As 2nd row.
7th row: As 3rd row.
8th row: As 4th row
9th row: As 1st row
10th row: As 2nd row
11th row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times, * cp7, p2, k2, p2, (c6R, p2) twice, k2, p2, cp7 *; p18; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb1) to end.
12th row: As 4th row

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in straight until work measures 20 ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 4 (5 : 6 : 6 : 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then cast off 4 (5: 6: 7: 8) sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows. [100 (100 : 104 : 106 : 110) sts]

Continue straight until armhole measures 7½ (7½ : 8: 8: 9) ins, ending after a wrong-side row.


Shape Shoulder and Neck:
Cast off 8 (8 : 10 : 11: 13) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Next row: Cast off 8, pattern until there are 25sts on the right-hand needle, cast off 18, pattern to end.

Continue on the last set of stitches.

Next row: Cast off 8, pattern to end.
Next row: Cast off 5, pattern to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Cast off the remaining sts.

Join yarn to neck edge of remaining sts and work to match lst side, reversing shapings.

Pocket linings (make 2)

[Editor's note: You may note from the photograph that I omitted pockets on my cardigan - actually I think it looks best with pockets, and I plan to add them in later, but if you don't want them, simply leave out these sections.]

With No 9 needles cast on 38sts.

1st row: K2, (p2, k2) to end.
2nd row: P2, (k2, p2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows for 5 inches, ending after 1st row.

Next row: P3, increase in the next stitch, rib to the last 4 sts, increase in the next stitch, p3.

Leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

The Right Front

With No 9 needles cast on 58 (61 : 64 : 67 : 70) sts.

1st row: K1, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: (k2, pbl) to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

Next row (buttonhole): Rib3, cast off 3, rib to end.
Next row: Work in rib, casting on 3sts over those cast off.

Work 3 more rows in rib, increasing 1st at the end of the last row on the 1st, 3rd and 5th sizes. [59 (61 : 65 : 67 : 71) sts]

Increase row: K8 (10 : 14: 16: 20), kfb; repeat from * to * as increase row on back; (k1, p1, then k1, p1 in next st) twice, k2; turn, leaving the remaining 8 sts on a safety-pin to work the buttonhole band later.

Change to No 7 needles and continue to work on 60 (62 : 66 : 68 : 72) sts as follows:

1st row: P10; repeat from * to * as 1st row of back, then (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: K10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); repeat from * to * as 2nd row of back; k1 (work k1, p1, k1 into next st., p3tog) twice, k1.

Keeping bramble stitch and cable pattern correct, decrease 1 stitch at the end of the following 21st row, then the following 12th row.
Work 1 row.

Next row (place pocket): P10, slip the next 40 stitches on to a stitch holder or spare needle;
work across the pocket lining stitches thus: k7, rib 26, k7;
then pattern across the remaining stitches.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at side edge on the following 10th row. Then continue straight on the remaining 57 (59 : 63 : 65 : 69) stitches until work measures 13 inches.
Increase 1 stitch at the side edge on the next row and following 18th row.
Then continue straight until work matches back to armhole, ending at side edge.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 4 (5 : 6 : 6 : 7) sts at the beginning of the next row, and then 4 (5 : 6 : 7 : 8) stitches on the following alternate row. Continue straight until armhole measures 5 (5 : 5½ : 5½ : 6) inches, ending at the front edge.

Shape Neck:
Cast off 9 sts at the beginning of the next row; 3 stitches on the following alternate row; and 2 stitches on the following 4 alternate rows.
Continue straight until armhole matches back to shoulder, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 (8 : 10 : 11: 13) stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 8 stitches on the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 7 stitches.

The Left Front

With No 9 needles cast on 58 (61 : 64 : 67 : 70) stitches.
1st row: (P2, kb1) to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, (pbl, k2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then 1st row once, increasing 1st at the beginning of the last row on the lst, 3rd, and 5th sizes.

Increase row: Rib 8 stitches, and leave these 8 stitches on a safety-pin to work the left front band later.
Continue the row: k2; (p1, k1, then p1, k1 in next st) twice; repeat from * to * as increase row on back; kfb; knit to end.
[60 (62 : 66 : 68 : 72) stitches]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern thus:

1st row: (Kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; repeat from * to * as 1st row of back, then p10.
2nd row: K1, (work k1, p1, k1 into next st., p3tog) twice, k1; repeat from * to * as 2nd row of back; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as now set, and complete to match right front, reversing shapings and the position of the pocket.

The Sleeves

With No 9 needles cast on 44 (44 : 50 : 50 : 50) sts.
Work 9 rows in rib as for the back welt, omitting the increases on the last row.

Increase row: ** (k2, kfb) once (once : twice : twice : twice),
k2 **; repeat from * to * as for the increase row on the back; then repeat from ** to **. [52 (52 : 60 : 60 : 60) sts]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: (Kb1, p1) 3 (3 : 5 : 5 : 5) times; repeat from * to * as for the 1st row of the back; (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: K6 (6 : 10 : 10) ; repeat from * to * as for the 2nd row of the back; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as now set, increasing 1 stitch at both ends of following 5th row and every following 5th (5th : 6th : 6th : 5th) row until you have 80 (80 : 86 : 86 : 92) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern as end panels.

Continue straight until work measures 17 (17 : 18 : 18 : 18) inches. For 1st, 2nd, and 3rd sizes, end with wrong side facing, and for 4th and 5th sizes end with right side facing to begin the next row.

Mark the ends of the last row (with a piece of coloured thread or a stitch marker).

Shape Top:
Cast off 3 (4: 4: 5: 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows;
4 (4 : 5 : 4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows;
and then 8 stitches at the beginning of the following 4 rows.
Cast off.

The Pocket Tops

With right side facing, slip the 40 stitches on the stitch holder for the left front pocket on to No 9 needles.

1st row: K1, (k2tog tbl, p2) twice; (kb1, p2) 8 times; k2tog tbl, p2, k2tog tbl, k1. [36 sts]

2nd row: K1, pb1, (k2, pb1) to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K1 (kb1, p2) to last 2 stitches, kb1, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Cast off in rib.

Repeat the process for the stitches on the stitch holder for the right front pocket.

The Front Bands

With wrong side facing, slip the 8 stitches of left front on the safety-pin back on to on to No 9 needles.

Work in rib as set, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the 1st row. [9 sts]. Continue in rib until band will fit front edge.

[Editor's note: I have found it difficult to judge the fit of front bands knitted in this way. My method now is that when I have knitted about the right length, I test the length against the main body by laying the work flat and totally relaxed with the front band laid in position up the front. When the front band is about ½ to 1 inch shorter than the main body it fits nicely into position very slightly stretched.]

Leave the stitches on a spare needle.
Mark the band with pins to indicate position of buttons; the first one should be 4 rows up from the beginning and then position 5 more evenly spaced between, allowing that top one will be in the neckband.

With wrong side facing, slip 8 stitches of right front on the safety-pin back on to on to No 9 needles.
Increase in 1st stitch, and rib to end. [9 sts]
Complete to match left front band, working buttonholes at pin positions thus:
1st row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd row: Rib 3, cast on 3, rib 3.

The Neck Band

Join shoulder seams.

With No 9 needles and right side facing, rib across the 9sts of the right band, pick up and knit 29 sts up right front neck, 37 sts round back neck, 29 sts down left front neck, and finally rib across 9sts of left front band.

Work 6 rows in rib matching in with the bands, making the last (top) buttonhole on the 4th and 5th rows.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Join side seams.
Sew in sleeves, sewing the rows above the markers to the cast off groups at the armholes.
Join sleeve seams.
Sew down pocket linings, and sides of pocket tops.
Sew on front bands and buttons.

Materials

9 (10 : 10 : 11: 11)
100g skeins Rowan Magpie Aran.

A pair each of Nos
7 (4½mm) and 9 (3¾mm) needles, and
2 cable needles.

7 buttons.
(I used wonderful smooth shiny leather buttons that look like conkers).

Tension

20sts to 4 ins in double moss stitch.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 5 sizes to fit chest:
32 (34 : 36: 38: 40) ins; length: 27 (27 : 27½: 27½: 28½) ins;
and sleeve seam:
17 (17 : 18 : 18 : 18) ins.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
kfb or pfb: knit or purl into front and back of stitch.
kb or pb: knit or purl into back of stitch.
tbl: through back loop
sl: slip

c6L: cross 6 left thus:
slip next 2sts on to cable needle, leave at front, slip next 2sts on to cable needle and leave at back, k2, then p2 from cable needle at back, k2 from cable needle at front.

c6R: cross 6 right thus: slip next 4sts on to cable needle, leave at back, k2, then pass 2 purl sts back on to left-hand needle, purl these 2sts, then k2 from cable needle.

cp7: claw pattern 7 thus: slip next 2sts on to cable needle, leave at back, k1, then k2 from cable needle, knit next st, slip next st on to cable needle, leave at front, k2, then knit st from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a vintage Bainin yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


LivingAran3.jpg

Afterthought Pockets

You can see two things from the photograph of my cardigan. One is - the sleeves look disproportionately short - what can I say? I have very short arms so knitted them shorter to fit me.

The second thing is that there are no visible pockets. The reason is that my yarn was restricted, so when I started the knitting, I always planned to add the pockets later if I had sufficient yarn left at the end.

It is very easy to add afterthought pockets, and sometimes - especially if making your own design - it allows you to judge their position a little better.

You decide where you want your pocket tops to begin, and mark the centre. Thread a lifeline (use a blunt needle and nylon or smooth mercerised cotton thread) through the stitches to either side of the marker as big as the pocket will be (in our case, 40 stitches).

[Editor's note: I know - this can be hard when you have a complicated cable pattern - all I can say is, try and choose one of the wrong side rows where you were not executing the cables - this is good advice from the point of view of the picking up of the stitches, as well as stylistically where you want the pocket to be positioned.]

On the row above the marker for the centre point (and above your lifeline) cut a stitch and unthread the sts to either side of the marker for 20 sts each side. You will have 2 loose ends that you darn in on the wrong side at the end.

Pick up the loose sts above the row you have undone - this will normally yield 41 or 39 sts. Transfer the sts to working needles and knit downwards to make the pocket lining which you then push to the inside and sew down.

Pick up the 40 live sts from your lifeline and knit up to make the pocket tops. (Pull out the lifeline).

If you are short of yarn, you can always make the pocket linings out of any other yarn you have as they do not show - though it's best to choose a toning colour, otherwise it looks very amateurish if the inside of your elegant grey cashmere cardigan is revealed to show red bri-nylon square patches.

December 2010

Winter Wonder Hat

WinterWonderHat6.jpg

This is a very flattering hat - speaking as one who has difficulty with hats, which always leads to sartorial dilemmas in weather such as we have in the UK at the moment. However, not only flattering and warm, but amazingly speedy to knit, which can be very useful at this time of year. I completed it in one afternoon.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is a simple six-row pattern where you increase at the beginning and decrease at the end of every alternate row to create the diagonal effect. At the same time you alternate 3-row bands of stocking stitch and reverse sticking stitch.

Side

Cast on 20sts.
[Editor's note: I cast on in waste wool, and when I had completed the 12 patterns (see below) I grafted the sts together instead of seaming.]

1st row: Knit
2nd row: P2tog, purl to the last stitch, purl twice in the last stitch.
3rd row: Knit
4th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.
5th row: Purl
6th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 12 complete patterns have been worked from the start. Cast off.
[Editor's note: I did not cast off but grafted the sts to the cast on row by removing the waste wool and unpicking my first knit row, using this yarn tail to graft. This makes a perfect join.]

Brim

With right side facing, pick up and knit 72sts along one edge of the side piece - that is 3 sts to each knit and purl stripe.
[Editor's note: As I had already seamed the side piece into a tube shape, I used a circular needle to pick up the 72sts and knit the brim.]

Work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, and then cast off in rib.

Join side piece and brim neatly with a flat seam.
[Editor's note: If you have not already grafted the side together.....]

Press seam lightly.

Crown

Cast on 14sts, and work in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row (this is right side of work), and increasing at each end of the first and every alternate row until there are 28 sts.

Knit one row.

Then continue, decreasing at each end of next and every following alternate row until 14sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Pin crown in position to side of hat on wrong side, so that purl side of crown is on the outside. Back stitch in position very neatly on wrong side with a tailored seam
Press seam lightly on the right side using a damp cloth.

Fold ribbed brim in half to wrong side and slip stitch in position round lower edge.

Place on head.
Admire.

Wrap in Christmas paper. Put under tree.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 (2 oz) hanks Patons Big Ben Knitting in white.
Sample shown uses some handspun yarn.

A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Tension

12 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

A word on the wool.

Big Ben was quite a novelty bulky wool in its time. There were no substitutes short of knitting several strands of thinner yarn together to make the right tension (as I did with my handspun).
These days we have a number of bulky wools to try; the hat is fairly forgiving as the knit and purl stripes are stretchy like ribbing.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WinterWonderHat5.jpg

Handspun Yarn

I bought some Spelsau fleece at Woolfest in 2009; there was a workshop on knitting direct from the fleece but I intended to spin my sample. I made a 2 ply yarn which was softer than I had expected, but kempy (as I had not attempted to remove the coarser fibres). There was only a small amount - I did not measure the yardage, but I started with 100g, the yarn was chunky weight, and I knitted 2 strands of yarn together by combining it with an aran-weight handspun merino/silk blend to achive the bulky weight required. As you can see, the fleece was a lovely combination of natural grey tones.
The 100g sample was sufficient to knit the side and brim of the hat, but not the crown - I spun some of the coarser fibre from my Leicester Longwool fleece and combined that with the merino/silk as before to get the right yarn weight and drape, (quite a firm knitted fabric).

The description of the Spelsau fleece is as follows (taken from the reference above):

The Spaelsau is a direct ancestor to the Old Norwegian Sheep.They were tough sheep supplying their masters with meat, milk, wool, skin - even the sails that carried the ships over the oceans were made of their wool. Today, a thousand years later, the wool of the Spaelsau still consists of a rough cover to protect against the wind and the rain, and under this a much softer layer close to the skin as protection against the cold.
The rocky Norwegian west coast is Spaelsau country. On a few isolated isles among the skerries off the coast you still find Old Norwegian Sheep living wild.

September 2010

Bridge Jumper

BridgeJumper.jpg

This is a wonderful period jumper from 1940. I often thought I might try and adapt it but never made a decision as to how. Recently a friend on the internet borrowed the pattern to make it "as is" - quite an undertaking with all that patterning. She wanted to make it for a local Poker Club - but, as I explained, this is a Bridge Jumper - no playing poker in it mind!
So here is the pattern as it appeared originally - I will include any notes and advice from our test knitter if and when they are forthcoming.

Instructions

These are the instructions as they appear in the original pattern. They are untested with modern yarn and needles.

Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (G) cast on cast on 108 stitches and work 4½ inches in Knit 2, Purl 2 rib, increasing at the end of the last row. Change to No. 10 needles, and work 2 rows stocking stitch; then, still in stocking stitch, change to coloured pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit 8 in main shade (G), * 3 in black (B), 13G, 1 in red (R), 13G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
2nd row: Purl 9G, * 1B, 14G, 1R, 14G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.
3rd row: Knit 9G, * 1B, 13G, 3R, 13G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.
4th row: Purl 6G, * 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 6G.
5th row: Knit 5G, * 3B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 3B, 8G, 5R, 8G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 3B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 3B, 5G.
6th row: Purl 5G, * 9 B, 8G, 5R, 8G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 9B, 5G.
7th row: Knit 5G, * 9B, 7G, 7R, 7G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 9B, 5G.
8th row: Purl 6G, * 7B, 7G, 9R, 7G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 7B, 6G.
9th row: Knit 6G, * 7B, 6G, 11R, 6G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 7B, 6G.
10th row: Purl 7G, * 5B, 7G, 11R, 7G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 5B, 7G.
11th row: Knit 7G, * 5B, 7G, 11R, 7G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 5B, 7G.
12th row: W: Purl 8G, * 3B, 8G, 4R, 3G, 4R, 8G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
13th row: Knit 8G, * 3B, 9G, 2R, 5G, 2R, 9G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
14th row: Purl 9G, * 1B, 29G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.

15th-20th rows: Work in stocking stitch in main shade only.

21st row: Increase in first stitch; knit 8G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1R, 8G, increase in last stitch.
22nd row:
Purl 10G, * 1R, 14G, 1B, 14G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 1R, 10G.
23rd row: Knit 9G, * 3R,13G, 1B, 13G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3R, 9G.
24th row: Purl 9G, * 3R, 9G, 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 9G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3R, 9G.
25th row: Knit 8G, * 5R, 7G, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 5R, 8G.
26th row: Purl 7G, * 7R, 6G, 11B, 6G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 7R, 7G.
27th row: Knit 6G, * 9R, 5G, 11B, 5G, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, 9R, 6G.
28th row: Purl 6G, * 9R, 5G, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, 9R, 6G.
29th row: Increase in first stitch; knit 6G, * 7R, 7G, 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 7R, 6G, increase in the last stitch.
30th row: Purl 9G, * 5R, 10G, 5B, 10G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 5R, 9 G.
31st row: Knit 10G, * 3R, 10G, 7B, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 3R, 10 G.
32nd row: Purl 10G, * 3R, 10G, 1B, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 3R, 10G.
33rd row: Knit 11G, * 1R, 12G, 5B, 12G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 1R, 11G.
34th row: Purl 11G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 1R, 11G.
35th-40th rows: Work in stocking-stitch in G only, increasing at each end of the 37th row [115 stitches].

These 40 rows form the pattern.
The chart shows the 40 rows written out above.


Continue in pattern, increasing at each end of every 6th row, until there are 125 stitches on the needle, and the 32nd row of the second pattern has been worked.

Shape armhole as follows:

Continuing in pattern, cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease at each end of the next 5 rows (105 stitches).
Continue in pattern without shaping until 3rd pattern is completed.

Shape neck as follows:

1st row: Knit 6G, 3B, 13G, 1R, 59G, 1R, 13G, 3B, 6G.
2nd row: Purl 7G, 1B, 14G, 1R, 59G, 1R, 14G, 1B, 7G.
3rd row: Knit 7G, 1B, 13G, 3R, 18G, (slip these stitches on to spare needle); cast off 21; knit 18G, 3R, 13G, 1B, 7G.

Working on these last 42 stitches:-

4th row: Purl 4G, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, 3R, 18G.

Continue in pattern, decreasing at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 36 stitches remain and the 15th pattern row has been worked.

Shape shoulder as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Cast off 10 stitches at armhole edge, purl to end.
2nd row: K2tog, knit to end.

Repeat these last 2 rows once. Cast off.
Return to stitches on the spare needle; join main shade wool at centre and work left shoulder to match right, shaping at opposite edges.

Back

Work as for the front until 3rd pattern is completed, then
divide for back opening as follows:

Next row: Knit 6G, 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, 3B, 14G, turn.

Work on these 53 stitches for the right shoulder (slip remaining stitches on to a spare needle or stitch holder).
Continue in pattern, omitting centre heart near back opening and keeping these stitches in main shade, until 4th row of 4th pattern has been worked.

Shape shoulder as follows: cast off 11 stitches at armhole edge on the next 3 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Return to stitches left on spare needle or stitch holder. Join main shade wool at centre, cast on 4 stitches for under-lap and work to match the right shoulder, shaping at opposite edges.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles and main shade wool, cast on 73 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch for 19 rows (starting with a purl row). Change to No 10 needles and work in pattern as follows:-

1st row: Knit 6G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * once, 1R, 6G.
2nd row: Purl 6G, * 1R, 14G, 1B, 14G, repeat from * once, 1R, 6G.
3rd row: Knit 5G, * 3R, 13G, 1B, 13G, repeat from * once, 3R, 5G.
4th row: Purl 5G, * 3R, 10G, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, repeat from * once, 3R, 5G.
5th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 3G, * 5R, 8G, 3B, 1G, 1B, 1 G, 3B, 8G, repeat from * once, 5R, 3G; increase in the last stitch.
6th row: Purl 5G, * 5R, 8G, 9B, 8G, repeat from * once, 5R, 5G.
7th row: Knit 4G, * 7R, 7G, 9B, 7G, repeat from * once, 7R, 4G.
8th row: Purl 3G, * 9R, 7G, 7B, 7G, repeat from * once, 9R, 3G.
9th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 1G, * 11R, 6G, 7B, 6G, repeat from * once, 11R, 1G; increase in the last stitch.
10th row: Purl 3G, * 11R, 7G, 5B, 7G, repeat from * once, 11R, 3G.
11th row: Knit 3G, * 11R, 7G, 5B, 7G, repeat from * once, 11R, 3G.
12th row: Purl 3G, * 4R, 3G, 4R, 8G, 3B, 8G, repeat from * once, 4R, 3G, 4R, 3G.
13th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 3G, * 2R, 5G, 2R, 9G, 3B, 9G, repeat from * once, 2R, 5G, 2R, 3G; increase in the last stitch.
14th row: Purl 24G, 1B, 29G, 1B, 24G.
15th-20th rows: Work in stocking stitch in main colour G, increasing at each end of the 17th row.
21st row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 8G, * 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, repeat from * once, 3B, 8G; increase in the last stitch.
22nd row: Purl 11G, * 1B, 14G, 1R, 14G, repeat from * once, 1B, 11G.
23rd row: Knit 11G, * 1B, 13G, 3R, 13G, repeat from * once, 1B, 11G.
24th row: Purl 7G, * 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 9G, 3R, 9G, repeat from * once, 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 7G.
25th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 5G, * 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G, 5R, 7G, repeat from * once, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G; increase in the last stitch.
26th row: Purl 7G, * 11B, 6G, 7R, 6G, repeat from * once, 11B, 7G.
27th row: Knit 7G, * 11B, 5G, 9R, 5G, repeat from * once, 11B, 7G.
28th row: Purl 7G, * 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G, 9R, 5G, repeat from * once, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G.
29th row: Increase in the first stitch, Knit 7G, * 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G, 7R, 7G, repeat from * once, 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G; increase in the last stitch.
30th row: Purl 11G, * 5B, 10G, 5R, 10G, repeat from * once, 5B, 11G.
31st row: Knit 10G, * 7B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * once, 7B, 10G.
32nd row: Purl 10G, * 7B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * once, 7B, 10G.
33rd row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 10G, * 5B, 12G, 1R, 12G, repeat from * once, 5B, 10G; increase in the last stitch.
34th row: Purl 13G, * 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, repeat from * once, 3B, 13 G.
35th and 36th rows: Work in stocking stitch in G [89 stitches].

Now shape top: work 4 rows in G stocking stitch, casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the first 2 rows, then decreasing at each end of the next 2 rows.
This completes one pattern. Repeat again from 1st row, being careful to place each "pip" directly over the one below (as shown in the chart), and at the same time shaping as follows:-

Work 2 rows straight, then decrease at the beginning of the next 4 rows. * Work 2 rows straight, then decrease at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Repeat from * once.
Work 16 rows straight, then decrease at each end of the next 2 alternate rows (69 stitches).
Work 2 rows straight; decrease at each end of the next row. Now decrease at each end of every following 4th row, but when commencing the 3rd pattern, omit the heart at either end and keep stitches in main shade; continue until 16th row has been worked (59 stitches). Continue in G stocking stitch, decreasing at each end of every alternate row until 49 stitches remain.
Next row: k2tog all along, ending k1.
Cast off.

Roll for neck and Sleeves

With No. 12 needles cast on 7 stitches in R and 7 stitches in B.
1st row: (p6, k1) in B, twist the threads, (k1, p6) in R.
2nd row: (k6, p1) R, twist the threads, (p1, k6) B.

Repeat these 2 rows until roll is required length. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press all parts except ribbing on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side, shoulder, and sleeve seams. Set in sleeves, arranging fullness at shoulder. Sew stocking-stitch roll about 2 rows in from neck and sleeve edges, sewing along centre of roll, leaving the edges to roll under. Press all seams on wrong side.

Make three crochet buttons thus:
Make 3 chain, join in a ring, work 6 dc into ring. Work 2 dc in each stitch of last row, work 2 rows without shaping. Work 1 dc in every alternate stitch of last row. Stuff button with wool. Fasten off. Work 1 row of dc round back opening, making three loop buttonholes on right side of opening. Sew the buttons in position. Sew press-stud at extreme top of opening.

Materials

Original materials called for: 12ozs Patons Super Bouclet.
[8ozs green (main colour) and 2 ozs each in black and red.]

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.

A press-stud.

Editor's note: The closure for the back opening uses 3 buttons and loops that are self-made using crochet, so you will need an equivalent size crochet hook for finishing.

Tension

28sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-35 inch bust; length from top of shoulder: 20 inches; sleeve seam: 6 inches.

Abbreviations

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

dc: double crochet - known as single crochet in the US.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size for this pattern imply a standard 4 ply yarn would work. Given that bouclé yarn tends to work up fairly firmly, it might be possible to substitute a double knitting yarn to make a larger size.

Editor's note: My experience of these vintage patterns leads me to suggest that you may need far more yarn than the quantities indicate. In some cases I have needed one 50g ball (which is actually 1¾ozs) to replace each 1oz ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2010

World Cup Fever

SportSocks.jpg

As the nail-biting tournament in South Africa dominates this month, here we have: 1940s sport socks.
I thought they were nicely in England's colours, but not exactly football socks -
I think they mean a nice decorous sport like tennis, don't you?
Red and white is the original colour scheme from the 1940s. (Possibly the original did not include quite such a Dayglo shade of red.) However, the pattern seems vaguely Scandinavian and wintery to me - I could see them perhaps in Christmas colours of a more muted red with green.

Meanwhile... Ingerland, Ingerland, Ingerland...

Instructions.

Starting at top with the cuff, using the main colour, cast on 64 stitches on three needles (21,22, 21).
[Editor's note: I recommend using one size larger needles than you use for the plain portion of the sock, as Fair Isle technique tends to pull the tension a little tighter.]
Join in a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches, and knit 2 rounds.
[Editor's note: To avoid the cuff curling up so much, I actually did one row purl then one row knit.]
Then work in the cuff pattern as follows (there is a chart at the end of the section):

3rd Round: * k1 contrast (C), k1 main (M); repeat from * to end of round.
4th Round: * k1 M, k1C; repeat from * to end of round.
5th and 6th Round: knit all round in M.
7th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C, k2M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
8th Round: k2C, * k2M, k2C, k2M, k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C; repeat from * all round, ending k1C.
9th Round: * k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k2M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
10th Round: k2M, *k2C, k2M, k2C, k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M; repeat from * all round, ending k1M.
11th - 14th Rounds: Repeat 7th to 10th rounds.
15th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k7M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
16th Round: as 8th round.
17th Round: * k1M, k2C, k4M, k3C, k4M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
18th Round: as10th round.
19th Round: * k1C, k4M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end of round.
20th Round: as 8th round.
21st Round: as 7th round.
22nd and 23rd Rounds: knit all round in M.
24th and 25th Rounds: repeat 3rd and 4th rounds.
26th and 27th Rounds: knit all round in M.

This completes the cuff.

Break colour C and continue in main colour only.
[Editor's note: Change to smaller needles here.]

Turn the work inside out to make a fold-over cuff and start to work the rounds in the opposite direction.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 3 inches [Editor's note: about 30 rows.], decreasing 8 stitches in the last round only, by knitting together every 7th and 8th stitch.

Next Round: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [54 stitches]

Now work in stocking-stitch (knit every round) for 2 inches.
[Editor's note: about 20 rows.]

Heel

Knit 13 stitches of first needle on to third needle (this is the heel needle), then turn and purl back 26 stitches; divide the remaining 28 stitches equally onto the other two needles. Work back and forth over heel needles as follows:

1st Row: slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit across remaining stitches.
2nd Row: slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl across remaining stitches.
Repeat these last 2 rows alternately until piece measures 2 inches.
[Editor's note: I recommend knitting 26 rows.]

Next Row (right side facing): knit across first 16 stitches, k2tog; turn.

Next Row: p7, p2tog; turn.
Next Row: k7, k2tog; turn.
Repeat the last 2 rows alternately until 8 stitches remain on heel needle.

Next Round: needle 1: knit across heel needle, then pick up 14 stitches down left side of heel; needle 2: knit across next two, needles (thus transferring these stitches on to one needle); needle 3: pick up 14 stitches across other side of heel and k4, from needle 1.

Hereafter, work in rounds of stocking stitch but, on every other round, k2tog at end of first needle, and (s1, k1, psso) at beginning of third needle until 54 stitches remain.

Work straight until piece measures 2 inches less than that required for overall foot length.

[Editor's note: This was about 50 rows for my UK size 4 foot. (EU 37, US 6½.]

Toe

There should be 13 stitches on first needle, 28 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle. End of round is centre of sole. Work 1 round, decreasing at each end of second needle, then one round straight.

Now there are 13 stitches on first needle, 26 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle.

Next Round: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1; on second needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to within last 3 stitches, then k2tog, k1; on third needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to end of round.
Work 1 round straight.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16 stitches remain.
Transfer the stitches on to two needles, having 8 stitches on each needle and divided so that sole lies flat.

Graft the stitches together.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

3ozs Patons Real Shetland Wool.
[2 ozs main shade and 1oz contrasting shade. Original uses white and scarlet].

A set of four No 11 needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

30 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (white).
C is contrast (red).

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops").

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Real Shetland Wool.

I used Cygnet Wool-Rich 4ply. I chose this yarn as it seemed fine enough to achieve the required tension. I worked mainly on No 12 needles (one size smaller than specified) using No 11s for the Fair Isle section. However I think a conventional 4 ply at 28sts to 4 inches would make a better fabric.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2010

All-year-round jumper

AllYearTop.jpg

Another beautifully crafted early 1950s recreation by Sara; a neat little design which so suits her figure. Instructions are for one size only, and Sara made hers using Posh Yarns Diana 2ply, which seems to match the tension of the original 3 ply yarn. You might achieve more flexibility in fit and yarn choice if you opt for a standard 4ply instead.

Front

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade cast on cast on 120 sts loosely and work 24 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
[Editor's note: To aid the fold of a hem, (which is what this is), a garter stitch row is sometimes inserted half way. So - you could knit 11 rows in stocking stitch, and then knit one row on the wrong side - then continue with the stocking stitch to 24 rows.]

Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge.
Purl back.

Change to No.11 needles and work 4 rows stocking stitch, then shape basque as follows:

Next row: k33, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k33
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k32, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k32
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k31, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k31
Work 5 rows straight.

Continue decreasing thus on next and every following 6th row until 108 sts. remain.
Work 5 rows straight.

Shape waist as follows:

Next row: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to last 8 sts, k8
Next row: *p8, increase in the next st; repeat from * to last 8 sts, p8. [108 sts]

Begin working the check pattern, introducing the two contrast colours C1 and C2.
[Editor's note: In the original pattern they plunge straight in with the 2 by 2 check, but I think Sara has framed her panel by starting and ending with a row of C1 (green), which I think looks rather smart.]

1st row (right side facing): * k2 C1, k2 C2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2 C2, p2 C1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * k2 C2, k2 C1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * p2 C1, p2 C2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern repeating the 4 rows as set above, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row. Incorporate the extra sts keeping the chack pattern correct.

When work measures 10 inches at centre....
[Editor's note: The check panel is approximately 50 rows, depending on your own tension.]
....change back to main shade and continue in stocking stitch, still increasing at side edge as before until there are 130 sts.
Work straight until front measures 13 inches at centre.

With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the sleeves, [150 sts].
Continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders and neck as follows:

Cast off 10, k50; turn and leave remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 10 rows; then, keep the neck edge straight, but at the same time cast off 5 sts on every alternate row at the armhole edge until all sts are gone.

Return to the remaining sts on the stitch holder; slip the centre 30 sts on to a stitch holder, and rejoin the wool to the remaining 60 sts.
Work to correspond with the first shoulder.

Back

Work as for the front to the end of the check pattern.

Work 2 rows in main shade, then divide for back opening.
Work on the first half of the stitches, leaving the remainder on a stitch holder.
Continue shaping side edge until there are 65 sts on needle, then work straight until side edge matches back to armhole.
With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then 5 sts on the following 8 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Rejoin the wool to the remaining stitches at the centre and work to correspond with the right half of the back.

To Make Up

Press work on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Neck: With right side facing, main shade, and No 12 needles, pick up and knit 90 sts all round the neck, including 30 sts from the stitch holder on the front.
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off very loosely using a bigger needle.
Fold neckband in half and catch down on wrong side; press.
[Editor's note: I have to say, I am not clear from these instructions whether you should work the neckband on 2 needles - hence the "starting with a purl row", or whether you are working on 4 needles, but in reverse stocking stitch - given that you are instructed to join (implies both) shoulder seams before you begin.
Sara's version uses conventional stocking stitch which matches the hem. If you work backwards and forewards on 2 needles, only join one shoulder seam, and join the second with the neckband when you have finished..]

Join side and under-arm seams; work 2 rows dc round each sleeve edge. Turn back 1 inch of sleeve to form a cuff and catch in position at shoulder and under-arm.

[Editor's note: Sara leaves the sleeves plain after this point - instructions below introduce additional trim.]
Make a chain to go round each sleeve edge, then work 1 row dc across this chain. Sew in position round sleeve just below crochet edgings.

Work 3 rows dc down left side of back opening, including neckband, then 3 rows down right side making 24 button loops in 3rd row.

Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 5 ozs Patons Beehive Fingering 3ply in main shade (lipstick red) and 1oz each of grey and white.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles.

A No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

24 small buttons.

Tension

8 sts and 10 rows to an inch.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-34 inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 20½ ins.

See "adapting the size".

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometime called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit 2 slipped sts together through back loops)

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

Sara used Posh Yarn Diana 2 ply - about 600 yards for the main colour, and about 90 yards for the green contrast. For the white she used Capricorn Yarns brushed mohair 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

As with many of these 50s patterns, only one size is given: 33-34 inch bust. The sweater is designed to fit snugly, but probably will not fit most of us.

It is designed to be knitted in 3 ply at about 30 sts to 4 inches. You can gain some leeway by changing the yarn - this is a simple shape so it should cope with that - you should check the length you want and adjust the inches you knit accordingly.

Sara cleverly converted the pattern to a top down knit on the fly, and this would be ideal to try that that if you are bold enough.

April 2010

Little Raglan Reefer

RaglanReefer.jpg

Here is a cute little knitted reefer for a small child (6-24months). It dates from pre 1960s where children's knitwear was not inspiring, but as soon as I saw this I wanted to make it - I am a sucker for any nautical theme, especially for kids (and dolls...)

Instructions.

This pattern is given for 2 size options - the instructions for the larger size are blue bold type in curly brackets.

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib as follows:
1st rib row: K2; *p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd rib row: *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times, then 1st row once.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 6) 7 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [63{69}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k11{13}; (p1, k4, ) twice, p1; k11{13}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2F, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2F, p1; p1, C2B, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2B, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until you have completed row 28{32}.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern as you work these rows).

[Editor's note: you should be about to begin Row 5 of the pattern sequence for the smaller size and Row 3 (a cable row) for the larger size.]

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [19{21}sts]
Cast off.

Front

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib for the first 11 rows as you did for the back.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 7) 6 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [62{68}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; (p1, k1, ) 8{9} times; k1.

Turn and continue working on these 40{44}sts to make the left front (these instructions are intended for a boy - see editor's note below) and slip remaining 22{24} sts on to a stitch holder and leave to work later.

[Editor's note: If you want to make this for a girl - maybe in white? - then you will perhaps want to reverse these instructions by working the first 22{24} sts, casting on 20sts and working on these 40{44} sts as written, omitting the button holes. Pick up the rest of the sts to work the right front - and don't forget to work the buttonholes on the right front!]

2nd row: (K1, p1) 9{10} times; purl to the last st, k1.

[Editor's note: The centre panel on each of the front pieces is worked in double moss stitch, and I found it convenient to put a stitch marker after I had worked the first 18{20} sts of row 2, to show the limit of this section.]

3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: K2, (p1, k1) 8{9} times; purl to the last st, k1.
5th row (on which buttonholes are worked): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; p2tog, yrn, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; yfwd, k2tog, k1.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k8{9}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch panel correct throughout, work 16{20} rows, working buttonholes as before on the 9th of these rows (row 21 for both sizes).

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end, and cast on 5 sts.
[Editor's note: This creates the jacket-style revere].

** Keeping continuity of the pattern, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 18{20} sts remain of the moss stitch panel.
Work a further 16{18} rows straight in moss stitch as set.
Cast off.

Completing the other side to make the right front:

Slip the sts from the stitch holder on to a No 10 needle, point facing centre of work (right side facing you), and cast on 18{20}sts. [40{44}sts].
Change to No 8 needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (p1, k1) 9{10} times.
3rd row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (k1, p1) 8{9} times; k2.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch correct throughout, work 17{21} more rows, thus finishing at side edge.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row (wrong side facing): Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]

Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end, cast on 5 sts.

Complete to match the left side of front, working from ** to end.

Right sleeve:

Using No 10 needles, cast on 32{34}sts. Work 13{15} rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 3{4}; (increase in next st, rib 4) 5 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [38{40}sts]

Change to No 8 needles and proceed in stocking stitch with cable panels set as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K3{3}; (p1, k4, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, k4, p1; k3{3}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K3{3}; (p1, C2B, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, C2B, p1; k3{3}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern as on last 6 rows, increasing 1 st at both ends of next and every following 6th row, until there are 50{54}sts; work the extra sts in stocking stitch.
Then work 3{7} rows straight before starting the raglan decreases.

Shape raglan by working rows as you did for the back:

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [6{6}sts]
Cast off.

Right sleeve:

Work as for the right sleeve, but working C2F instead of C2B.

[Editor's note: The sleeves are identical apart from the way the cables twist, and obviously you can choose to sew them into the Reefer in whatever orientation you prefer.]

To Make Up

Block each piece from the wrong side, pressing very lightly using a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.

Join side, raglan, and sleeve seams using a flat seam.
Stitch the collar into position across the sleeve tops and back of the neck, joining the 20 cast-off sts together at the centre back.

Stitch down the 20 cast-on stitches at the waist on the inside.
Attach buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3{4} ozs Patons Quickerknit Baby (wool or bri-nylon).
Sample shown (larger size) used 4 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in navy blue.

A pair each Nos 8 and 10 (4mm and 3¼mm) needles.

Four gold coloured buttons (mine are inexpensive plastic buttons with anchor design).

AnchorButton.jpg

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles. You may need to use a smaller needle to get the right tension using the Baby Cashmerino.

Size matters

Chest 20{22} ins. Length, 9½{10½} ins. Sleeve seam, 6¾{} ins.

Abbreviations

C2F: "cable 2 front". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at front of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

C2B: "cable 2 back". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at back of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: (decrease) slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, or "ssk", slip, slip, knit.

yrn/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn forward.
Makes an extra stitch which forms a buttonhole when knitted on the next row.

 

A word on the wool.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days there are many yarn weight variations without rigid adherence to specific tension schemes, and so light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge for baby knitwear.
I used the No 8 needles as specified in the pattern, and produced a fairly loose fabric; I think the yarn is better suited to No 9 or 10 needles (3¾ mm - 3¼ mm).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WilliaminReefer1.jpg

WilliaminReefer2.jpg

RaglanReeferB&W.jpg

February 2010

Fringed Yoke

Knitted in a light weight yarn and originally designed in the 1950s to wear under or over a sweater with a lower neckline. The original is a "fringed cable yoke" (in case you want to show it off over the sweater) but I have omitted the fringing; I wear it as a convenient alternative to a scarf. The yarn I used is more a 4ply than a 3ply weight so my version is very slightly bulkier and longer than the original.

Instructions.

Cables are worked as follows:

Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 7: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 6: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 5: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 4: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
Cable 3: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.

Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece.

Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P4, * k8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
2nd row: K4, * p8, k8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more.

9th row: P4, * cable8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
10th row: as 2nd row.
11th row: as 1st row.
12th row (decrease row): K4, * p8, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4. [271 sts]
13th row: P4, * k8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
14th row: K4, * p8, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.
15th and 16th rows: as 13th and 14th rows.
17th row: P4, * cable8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
18th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, p2tog, p3, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p3, k2tog, p3, k4. [253 sts]

Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

24th row (decrease row): K4, * p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts]
25th row: P4, * cable7, p6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, cable7, p4.

Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts]

Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4.

Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before.

Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end.

Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end.

Work a further 4 rows straight.

Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4.

Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib.

Cast off.

To work the buttonholes:
With crochet hook, work 3 rows of double crochet down left side of opening, then 3 rows down right side, making 8 small button loops in 3rd row. Fasten off.

Optional fringing:
Cut 2 strands of wool each 3 inches long, fold in half and knot through every alternate stitch of cast-on edge. Now take last 2 strands from one knot together with first 2 from next knot and knot these 4 together to form trellis fringe as shown in photograph. Trim fringe evenly. Sew on buttons. Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. **

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
[Editor's note: You can use a circular needle here but knit backwards and forwards.]
A cable needle.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
8 small buttons.

Tension

Original yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

One size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension.

Crochet

Double crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2010

Elegant Yoked Sweater

CableYokeSweater.jpg

Fabulous sweater-girl look from the 1950s created by Sara.
This is a close-fitting design with some negative ease. Sara created hers from the top down translating the instructions as she went along; she did not write down her adaptation, but it is far from impossible to convert it dynamically, as Sara did, with this type of design.
Instructions are provided for one size only, but some modifications are possible.

Instructions.

The cable over 6 sts is worked as follows:

Cable: Slip next 3 sts. onto a cable needle to back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.

Back and front alike:

With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 sts and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 102 sts.
Work straight until back measures 12 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 78 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work a second identical piece for the front.

Sleeves (make 2):

You have the option of log or short sleeves - work one or other set of intructions.

Long sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 48 sts and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 76 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 17 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 52 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on spare needle, or stitch holder.

Short sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 66 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 76 sts. Work straight until sleeve measures 4½ inches, then shape top as for long sleeve.

Yoke:

You should now have 2 identical pieces for the back and front, and two identical pieces for the sleeves, all on spare needles or stitch holders.

With right side facing and the set of No 10 needles.....
[Editor's note: The yoke is going to be pulled in by the cable pattern. Sara noticed that the yoke tends to ride up a little in her version, and this may be improved by increasing the needle size for the yoke section. Whatever needle size you chose for the main body, consider going up a size for the yoke.]
arrange stitches thus:-
place the 52 stitches of the left sleeve, and the first 40 stitches of the front on the first needle; the last 48 sts of the front and the 52 sts of the right sleeve on the second needle; and 78 stitches of the back onto the third needle. [260 sts].

[Editor's note: If you are using a circular needle, thread the stitches on in the order: sleeve, front, sleeve, back. Put a stitch marker to mark the beginning/end of the round, as front and back look the same. Also remember that the yoke decreases in size until it becomes the neck opening so you may wish to change between lengths of circular needle and finally move to 4 needles as the round becomes smaller.]

Work in rounds as follows:

1st round: K5, * k7, p2, k17; repeat from * ending last repeat k12 instead of k17.
2nd round: K5, * k6, p4, k16; repeat from * ending last repeat k11 instead of k16.
3rd round: K5, * k5, p6, k15; repeat from * ending last repeat k10.
4th round: K5, * k4, p8, k14; repeat from * ending last repeat k9.
5th round: K5, * k3, p10, k13; repeat from * ending last repeat k8.
6th round: K5, * k2, p12, k12; repeat from * ending last repeat k7.
7th round: K5, * k1, p14, k11; repeat from * ending last repeat k6.
8th round: K5, * p16, k10; repeat from * ending last repeat k5.
9th round: K4, * p18, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
10th round: K4, * p6, k6, p6, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
11th round: as 10th round.

12th round: K2tog, k2, * p6, cable, p6, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k4. [250 sts]
13th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k7; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th rounds: As 13th round.

18th round: K3, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog. [240 sts]
19th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k6; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
20th, 21st, 22nd, and 23rd rounds: As 19th round.

24th round: K2tog, k1, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 21sts, p6, cable, p6, k3. [230 sts]
25th round: K2, * p2tog, p4, k6, p4, p2togtbl, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3. [210 sts]
26th round: K2, * p5, k6, p5, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
27th, 28th, and 29th rounds: As 26th round.

30th round: K2, * p5, cable, p5, k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 19sts, p5, cable, p5, k1, k2tog. [200 sts]
31st round: K2, * p2tog, p3, k6, p3, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [180sts]
32nd round: K2, * p4, k6, p4, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
33rd, 34th, and 35th rounds: As 32nd round.

36th round: K2tog, * p4, cable, p4, k1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 16sts; p4, cable, p4, k2. [170sts]
37th round: K1, * p2tog, p2, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [150 sts
38th round: K1, * p3, k6, p3, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
39th, 40th, and 41st rounds: As 38th round.

42nd round: K1, * p3, cable, p3, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 14 sts; p3, cable, p3, k2tog. [140 sts]
43rd round: K1, * p2tog, p1, k6, p1, p2togtbl, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1. [120 sts]
44th round: K1, * p2, k6, p2, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1.
45th, 46th, and 47th rounds: As 44th round.

48th round: P2tog, * p1, cable, p2, k2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 10sts, pl, cable, p2, k.l. [110 sts]
49th round: * P2tog, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k1; repeat from * to end. [90 sts]
50th round: * P1, k6, p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
51st, 52nd, and 53rd rounds: As 50th round.

Divide stitches onto No 11 needles, 45 across front and 45 across back. Work 7 rows k1, p1 rib across front of neck; cast off in rib. Work back of neck in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams and right shoulder ribbing.
Sew 2 press-studs on left shoulder. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 14 ozs. for long sleeves, 11 ozs. for short sleeves of Patons Moorland Double Knitting**.

Example knitted in Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK - 8 x 50g balls - about 900m.

1 pair each of No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, and a set of 4 No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, or circular needle.[Editor's note: Please see the important notes about the wool used for the modern version, the consequent needle sizes used, and the sizing.]

A cable needle. Two press-fasteners.

Tension

Original yarn knits 24sts x 32 rows to four inches on No 10 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 22sts x 28 rows to four inches on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-35 inches; length from top of shoulders 20½ inches; sleeve seam: 17 or 4½ inches.

See "adapting the size".

**A word on the wool.

If you have some vintage Patons Moorland DK - you may like to note that I surmise they used this brand name for more than one version of this wool; I have some Moorland from the 1980s and I believe it is a relatively thick DK, which would be hard to contemplate knitting on No10 needles.

Sara used Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK, (120m per 50g ball), which knits as 22sts x 28 rows to 4ins on 4mm needles.
[Editor's note: This wool is ideal for felting, so be extra careful when washing it.]
If you use a needle size of No 8 (4mm) needles instead of the original needles, it will increase the nominal size of the sweater from 34 to 37 ins. This may be desirable.

See "adapting the size".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

The original pattern is for one size: 34-35 inch bust. The sweater is designed to be tightly fitting, and the nominal sweater size is just under 34 ins, so it intends there to be slight negative ease. The original wool and needle sizes indicate a "fine double knitting" wool with a tension of 24sts to 4 inches on 3¼mm (relatively fine) needles.

The sizing is a bit small for an average size these days, so moving to a conventional DK wool (22 sts to 4 ins on 4mm needles) makes a nominal size of about 36½ins, making the sweater suitable for up to a 37-38 ins bust. Also - whatever wool and needle size you opt for - note particularly the suggestion to move to a larger needle size when working the yoke.

If you increase the size by further gauge changes with thicker wool, you will find that the sweater may be less suited to the close fitting styling, and you lose the 50s "look".

CableYokeOriginal.jpg CableYokealaMode.jpg

December 2009

Matching Mittens

MatchingMittens.jpg

In need of an additional gift that you can speedily knit? - then this is for you. (Unless you live in the tropics, when it would probably never be for you).

I made these mittens to go with the beret Featherbed by Louisa Harding from her book Little Cake. I like Louisa's work, and yarns; however, I made her beret in Rowan Kid Classic as I needed a particular colour, and in consequence had sufficient left to make mittens, using a similar stitch pattern. Using Kid Classic was fine but made for an even more lightweight beret - I think I would like to try the recommended yarn for a slightly bulkier feel as intended.
The mittens are lovely and warm and .... feathery.

Instructions:

(Make two gloves alike)

Cast on 36 stitches, arrange evenly over 3 needles.
Join in a round, and begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * K3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
Repeat round 1 three more times.

5th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [30sts]
6th round: * K1, yon, k1, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
7th and 8th rounds: as 1st.

Repeat rounds 5 through 8 four times more times.

21st round: as 5th.
22nd round (increase): * K1, yon, k1, p1, yon, k1,p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

23rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
24th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
25th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
26th round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]
Repeat rounds 23 through 26 three times more times.

39th round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times.
Then: k3, p1, k1. Using waste yarn, knit the last 2 sts of the round.
Slip these 2 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn.

40th round: Begin the next round continuing with the waste yarn, and k5. Slip these 5 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn. Then finish the round as follows: k1, yon, p1; * k3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [43sts]

41st round: Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2tog, k1, p1; * slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [36sts]

42nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

Repeat rounds 23 through 26 twice more. Cast off 42 sts (not too tightly).

Work the thumb.

Go back to the waste yarn and carefully remove it, placing the resulting live sts on two double-point needles; there will be 7
sts below the opening, that look like normal sts, and aim to get 8 sts above - ensure you pick up all the loops.

Now set off working in a round; starting with the 7 sts below the opening, arrange the sts as follows: Place the first 2 sts on a needle and leave for the end of the round.

Join in the yarn and using another needle, k3, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 7 lower sts and the first of the 8 upper sts), yon, then purl the second stitch from the upper needle. This is "needle one" and has 7 sts.
Using another needle, k1, k2tog, k1. This is "needle two" and has 3 sts.
Using another needle, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 8 upper sts and the first of the two sts you left for the end of the round), p1. This is "needle three" and has 4sts. [14 sts]

1st round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [12sts]
2nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [14 sts]
3rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
4th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
5th round: as 1st.
6th round: as 2nd.

Cast off 14 thumb sts loosely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

1 x 50g ball Rowan Kid Classic.

Small length of waste yarn in contrasting colour, (something slippery like cotton preferably).

One set of 4 No. 8 (4 mm) needles.

Tension

Kid Classic knits to a tension of 18sts and 24 rows to 4 inches on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

Abbreviations

yon: yarn over needle - makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2009

Cosy cable socks

CosyCableSocks.jpg

Father George recently handed back his bedsocks as they had holes in the heels. I dutifully mended them, but thought this a good excuse to give him another pair.

These socks are one size, but easily stretch to fit comfortably around a man's foot, as well as fitting round my own foot (small lady's), albeit loosely. If you want cosy house socks for a female foot then simply adjust the length. These are intentionally short at the ankle, but again you can easily knit them longer for the size you need.

Instructions

With No. 9 needles, cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.

1st round: * K4, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
2nd-4th rounds: As first round.
5th (cable) round: * C4B, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
6th round: As first round.

These are the six basic pattern rounds.

Repeat these six rounds twice more, (or as many times as you need to lengthen the sock at the ankle), and then the first round once again.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be longer in the leg, then add more rows here.]

Divide for heel flap.

Next Row: Knit the first 28 sts of the round on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 32 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete cables across the 32 instep sts, starting and ending with p2.

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across the remaining 27 sts. [28 sts].
Next round: * Slip1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat the last 2 rows 12 times more.

Turn the heel.

Work short rows as follows:

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across 15sts, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k5, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1 p6, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k7, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn

Continue working in this way until all the sts have been incorporated [16sts], ending with a knit row, and right side facing.

Continuing to work onto the same needle (needle 1), pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Slip all the instep sts on to one needle, and using a 2nd needle knit across instep sts, in the cable pattern, starting at the second row.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Knit the first 8 sts from Needle 1, and slip these on to the end of Needle 3. [78 sts].

[Editor's note: I am not one to encourage a sloppy attitude to knitting, but...
When you pick up sts down the side of the heel flap for this design of sock it is not essential that you pick up exactly the number stated - you do not even have to pick up the same number down each side of the flap - I often find that I have one more on one side than the other (this is due to the way I make the heel flaps which we won't dwell on here!). Whatever you pick up, you must decrease to the right number as you do the shape the instep - it's not the number of decreases but the final number of sts that is important.
I would say though, that whatever you do on the first sock, try and remember to repeat it on the second sock - that's best...]

Shape the instep:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit, following the 6-row cable pattern as set. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 60sts remain (14 on the first needle, 32 on the second needle, 14 on the third needle).

Continue on these sts, (continuing the cable pattern on the upper foot as set), until you have completed 12 cable patterns from the very beginning of the work, or until work measures 2 inches less than the desired foot length.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be smaller or larger, alter the length here.]

Shape toe:

Continue in stocking stitch only (no more cables), as follows: knit the sts from Needle 1, then knit the first st from Needle 2 and put it on Needle 1. Knit 30 sts from Needle 2, then place the last st onto Needle 3. Knit across 15 sts on Needle 3.

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end. [56sts]
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 32 sts remain, ending with 1st round.

Then repeat round 1 twice more [24 sts].

Making up.

Knit the sts from needle one, break the thread leaving a long tail.
Slip the sts from needles 1 and 3 onto one needle.

Graft the two sets of 12 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting,otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

About 1 x 50g skein (139 metres) Phildar Oxygene, colour 38, Neptune.
[Editor's note: If you lengthen the sock at the ankle you will need more wool.]

One set of 4 No. 9 (3½mm) double- pointed needles.

Tension

23 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 9 (3½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.

Abbreviations

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
This cable is ideal to work using the method without a cable needle.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

 

October 2009

The Boyfriend Cardigan

BoyfriendCardigan.jpg

No - really - the boyfriend....

I say this as, had you seen the modelled photo from the 1970s, it may have led you to wonder. The orginal cerise colour in combination with the lacy pattern seems to be a bit feminine - but - hey! - we were looking at the beginnings of the "New Man" in the 1970s, right? (but it looks just perfect on my "old" man).
Sad to say, I think I possess the actual original yarn in the suggested (pink) colour for this pattern, but I chose to style it in an elegant pearl grey, using a practical superwash wool blend.

Obviously it could be made to suit a man or a woman.

Instructions.

This is a raglan cardigan, designed for a man and given in 3 sizes. Main size is given for a 40 inch chest and other 2 sizes are given in brackets.

Pattern:

The twisted rib pattern is worked over 24 rows as follows:

1st Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1,k1.
3rd Row: as first row
4th Row: as second row
5th Row: as first row
6th Row: as second row
7th Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2tog, yrn; repeat from * to last 4sts; p2, k2.
8th Row: S1, p1, * k2, k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
9th Row: S1, k1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; k2tog, yfwd, k1.
10th Row: S1, * k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to last st; k1.
11th Row: S1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2tog, yrn, p1, k1.
12th Row: S1, k1,* k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
13th Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
14th Row: S1, k1,* p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
15th Row: as 13th row
16th Row: as 14th row
17th Row: as 13th row
18th Row: as 14th row
19th Row: S1, p1,* yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; yon, s1, k1, psso, p1, k1.
20th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1tbl, k2; repeat from ,* to end.
21st Row: S1, p2, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso, k1.
22nd Row: S1, p1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k1tbl, k3.
23rd Row: S1, p3, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 2sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso.
24th Row: S1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Back:

Using No 12 needles, cast on 153 {161 : 169} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times; k1 * ;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 1{3 : 5} times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 1{3 : 5} times;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; p1, k1.
[174 {182 : 190} sts].

Change to No 10 needles.
Now work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again.

Next Row: S1, * k2tog, k7 *; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k2{6 : 10}; k2tog; k2{6 : 10}; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2. [153 {161 : 169} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

Continue in st-st until work measures 17 {17 : 18} inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 94 {86 : 78} rows decreasing once at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 43 {59 : 75} sts]
Then work a further 6 {14 : 22} rows decreasing once at each end of every row, until 31 sts remain (on all sizes).
Cast off.

Right Front.

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the right front on 78 {82 : 86} sts.

Change to No 10 needles, and work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again, as you did for the back.

Next Row: S1, (k2tog, k10) twice; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k10, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k2.
[71 {75 : 79} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

††

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a knit row, and wrong side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts purlwise; purl to last st, k1.

Work 82 {82 : 78} rows decreasing once at the front edge on the next and every following 10th row - and at same time decrease once at the armhole edge on the next and every alternate row.
[ 13 {17 : 24} sts]

For the largest 44 inch size, work 4 more rows, decreasing once at the front edge on the 3rd row and at the same time decrease once at the armhole edge on every row. [19 sts]

For the small (40 inch) and medium (42 inch) sizes, work 12 {4} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on the next and every alternate row. [7 {15}sts].

Then work a further 4 {12 : 16} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on every row. [ 3 {3 : 3} sts]

Next Row: S1, k2tog.
Next Row: K2tog, break off yarn, fasten off.

Left Front:

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows once, then the 1st row again.

6th Row (make buttonhole): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; continue in rib as set to end of row.
7th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 6 sts; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (k1, p1) twice, k2.
8th Row: as second.

Repeat the first and second rows 4 times more.

17th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 12 sts. Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the left front on 71 {75 : 79} sts.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Change to No 10 needles, and work exactly as given for the Right Front until †† is reached.

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a purl row, and right side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts knitwise; knit to end.

Complete as given for the right front, reversing all shapings.

 

Sleeves:

Using No 12 needles cast on 63 {63 : 67} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows 10 times.

Change to No 10 needles, and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 109 {109 : 113} sts on the needle.

Continue without further shaping until the work measures 19 inches, ending with right side facing for the next row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 44 {44 : 36} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every folowing 4th row. [ 71 {71 : 79} sts]

Then work 56 {56 : 64} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 15 {15 : 15} sts]

Cast off.

Making up:

Press pieces gently under a damp cloth according to the instructions on the yarn ball-band.
Sew up side and sleeve seams.
Placing seam to seam, sew decreased edges of the sleeve to the decreased edges of the body.

Right front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the right front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:

Next Row: Inc in the next stitch purlwise, k1; (p1, k1) 5 times.

Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts until border is of sufficient
length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Left front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the left front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With right side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:
Next Row: Inc in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times; k1.

Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts placing buttonholes at desired intervals as follows:
[Editor's note: I placed the buttonholes with about 28 rows between the pairs of buttonhole rows. This was about 3 inches apart. The topmost of the 5 buttons was about 4inches below the first front decreasing.]

Next Row (wrong side of work): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; (p1, k1) twice.
Next Row (right side of work): S1, k1, (p1, k1) twice; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Continue in rib until border is of sufficient length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Completion:

Sew ends of borders together. Sew borders to front edges. Sew on buttons to correspond with button holes.

Materials

4 ply: 9 : 10 : 11 50g balls [Editor's note: I used ony 7 balls of Luxe - see "Word on the Wool" below]

1 pair of No 10 (3¼mm) and 1 pair of No 12 (2¾mm) knitting needles.

5 buttons.

Tension

30 stitches to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 40:42:44 inch chest; actual size 41:43:45 inches.
Sleeve seam length: 19 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase in the next stitch by knitting (or purling) twice into it.

yrn/yon/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn over needle / yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k1tbl: knit through back loop of the stitch. This has the effect of twisting the yrn or yon stitch that you made, making it tighter.

s1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(s1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used a pale grey shade of Phildar Luxe, (85% acrilic, 15% wool) - very practical and soft, but now available in a lamentably small colour range. Luxe knits to a tension of 32 sts and 41 rows to 4 inches.
It is a fine synthetic at 217yards / 201metres per 50g ball, and I used only 7 balls.

I used plastic buttons (to go with the practical theme) from my collection.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here, George tries to emulate the original model's pose. Sadly, he is inhibited by the lack of a Hendrix hairstyle and droopy moustache.

1970sModel.jpg


July 2009

Dainty Bolero

DaintyBolero.jpg

I cannot do better than quote the original introduction from the 1940s.

"The charm of this little bolero is that it makes either a dainty bed-jacket, or attractive Angora coatee, for day or evening wear. The pretty shape makes it fit beautifully and you will find the openwork sleeves and border simple and quick to do."

I will add that you should choose your colours and styling carefully, otherwise its roots as a bed-jacket may be too obvious. When I knitted Rowan's Carolina by Sharon Miller in pale blue/grey - which is lovely in my opinion - I find myself unable to wear it as day wear and feel it needs to be in a more striking colour for evening wear. (Matches my pyjamas nicely though...)

Note that this pattern is untested, and reproduced here as per the original.

Instructions.

The body of the bolero is worked in fancy rib over 2 rows as follows:

1st Row: Knit.
2nd Row: (K1, p1) repeated across row.
[Editor's note: Keep the rib aligned as you increase and decrease to get the shape.]

Back

Cast on 84 stitches and work in ribbed pattern as above.
K keeping the continuity of the rib carefully, cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row until 44 sts remain.

Now cast off 1 stitch at beginning of every row till 16 sts remain.

Work 20 rows straight.

Continue to work in pattern but increase 1 st at each end of the next and every following 3rd row until there are 26 sts on the needle.
Cast off.

Side Pieces

Using three needles, pick up and knit 110 stitches up right side of back piece, then cast on 122 stitches. Arrange the sts as follows:
1st needle: 92 stitches; 2nd needle: 70 stitches; 3rd needle: 70 stitches.

Join into a round and work 20 rounds in pattern.

Next Round: * k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
Work 15 more rounds in pattern, beginning with a rib row.
Next Round: k2tog all round, casting off firmly at the same time.

Work second side to correspond.

Border

With five needles, using 2 strands of wool together, and right side facing, pick up and knit 42 stitches across lower edge of back, 60 stitches round right side, 13 across back of neck and 60 stitches round left side.

1st Round: Knit.
2nd Round: Purl.
3rd Round: Knit.
4th Round: Purl.
5th Round: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: Purl, dropping all the stitches wound round needle.
7th Round: Knit.
8th Round: Purl, increasing once in every 4th stitch.
9th Round: Knit.
10th Round: * P1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
11th Round: Knit, dropping all the stitches wound round needle. 12th Round: Purl.
13th Round: Knit.

Repeat 12th and 13th rounds, then 12th round again.
Now, with crochet hook, fasten off by working 1dc into each stitch as it comes off the needle, with 1 chain loosely in between.

Sleeves

Starting at the top with two needles and double wool, cast on 36 stitches and knit 4 rows garter stitch (every row knitted).


5th Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
7th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end.
8th Row: Knit.

Repeat from once, then 5th row again.

Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end.
Next Row: Knit.


Next Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.

Repeat from once, and then again omitting decreasings.
Knit 2 rows.
Cast off.

Making up

Press very lightly only.
Join sleeve seams and sew in sleeves.
Press back border round neck to form roll collar .

Materials

Original quoted 5ozs Beehive Non-Shrink Baby Wool 3ply.

Five No 7 (4½mm) double-pointed needles, or one pair of needles and a circular needle.

No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

[Alternative 9 (½ oz) balls Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora and five No 8 (4mm) needles]

Tension

28 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in back; 40 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in side pieces.

Size matters

To fit size 32-36 inch bust; length from top of shoulder to lower edge, 16 inches; sleeve seam, 4½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together (decrease).

dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US is referred to as single crochet.

ch: chain

A Word
on the Wool.

I have not made this up in a modern equivalent yarn so have no comments to offer from experience. From the tension, and the possible substitution of the angora yarn, it seems this would knit up with a modern 4 ply rather than 3 ply. Generally I refute the claim that old wools were thicker than modern ones - the bottom line is that in times past people patiently knitted much finer wools than we like today. However I have noticed that in the 1940s patterns there is no doubt that some of the 3 plys have tensions of 7 sts to the inch rather than the 8 or 9 that you expect with a 3 ply. I plan to knit this using handspun (hence not completed yet....)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

EveningCoatee.jpg


June 2009

Tennis Socks

TennisSocks.jpg

Early 1950s tennis socks originally knitted in crisp navy and white wool. I love cuffed socks but detect that some others (my sister) clearly do not. These have the design made specifically to fold down though - so there's no way out.

Instructions.

The pattern works the instep and the sole separately on two needles to enable you to work the fair isle pattern across the instep only. It is not possible to achieve this in the round. However, you join the two together as you knit.

Using No 12 needles with main shade (M), cast on 59 sts loosely and join in a round. Work 4 rounds in moss (also known as seed) stitch [every row k1 p1].

Next Round (increasing): K3; (m1, k8) 7 times. [66 sts]

Cuff border:

Change to No 11 needles and join in contrast (C) and work wave pattern border by repeating the 6 stitch pattern 10 times:

1st Round: * k3 contrast (C), k3 navy (N); repeat from * to end.
2nd Round:
* k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k1(C) ; repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k1N; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: Knit in N.
5th Round (decreasing): K31; k2tog; ssk2tog; k31. [64 sts]

Now continue with cuff diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times across one round:

6th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * k2(N), k1(C), k1(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * k1(N), k1(C), k3(N), k1(C), k2(N); repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k1(N) ; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
11th Round: As 9th.
12th Round: As 8th.
13th Round: As 7th.
14th Round: As 6th.

Now break off C and continue with N only; change to No 12 needles and work 7 rounds knitting.

Then turn the work so you are working the rounds in the other direction. This reverses the work to allow the cuff to fold over with the right side visible.

Work 8 more rounds knitting; at the end of the first round knit into the stitch below the first stitch of the round and knit it together with the last stitch of the round to avoid a small hole in the work.
Editor's note: Even if you don't understand how to do this, any tiny hole will not be visible as it is hidden under the cuff.

Join in C, working main diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times:

1st Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k2(N), ; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k2(C), k1(N), k1(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k1(C), k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * k2(C), k3(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
6th Round: As 4th.
7th Round: As 3rd.
8th Round: As 2nd.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Work rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Continue with N only and divide for the heel, however do not break off C.

Divide for heel

Next Row: Using navy wool only, knit the next 31 stitches on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 33 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete patterns across the 33 instep sts. Make sure that it looks like this (you will have just completed row 5, the middle row in the picture):

[ Editor's note: If it doesn't look like this... you can compensate by knitting more or fewer sts for the heel flap until you get to the pattern boundary. Then when you purl back on the row below, follow the instructions as set to get your 30 sts. You should have your instep sts set correctly as above. If you still haven't then there is likely a mistake in your fair isle pattern.]

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Purl back across 15 sts, p2 together, purl remaining 14 sts. [30 sts].

Heel flap

Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.
Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p29.
Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.

Repeat last 2 rows 13 times more.

Turn heel

Turn the heel by working short rows:

Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p16, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip1, k5, ssk, k1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, k7, ssk, k1; turn.

Continue in this way until all the sts have been incorporated in the row, ending with a knit row. [18 sts]

Turn. Purl one row.
Do not turn work, do not break wool.

Pick up and purl 16 sts down side of heel flap to bring the navy wool back to work the patterned instep. Leave these 16 sts along with the 18 heel sts, on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Upper foot panel

Take 33 sts left on needles 1 and 2, and slip them on to one needle.

Continue to use the navy yarn and pick up the contrast C, which should be waiting for you at the beginning of a purl side instep row (row 6 of the pattern). Begin working back and forth across these 33 sts, keeping the continuity of the pattern starting with a purl row and working from row 6 of the chart where you left off; work alternate rows in knit and purl.
Work the first 6 rows without slipping the first stitch and after that, slip the first stitch of every row.

Continue for 5½ inches or 4 inches less than overall desired foot length, ending with a knit row.
[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot. Each pattern is approximately 1 inch, and it is nicer if you can end your work after one complete pattern, which will be to the nearest half-inch, after knitting row 5 or row 1 of the pattern. If your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches you can still work to complete patterns, and compensate by adding a couple of rows when you work the toe.]

Break contrast yarn, and continue in navy only.

Turn the work and purl across 15 sts; p2tog; p16.

Continue with wrong side facing, using another No 12 needle, pick up and purl about 27sts from the slipped sts down the right side of the upper foot panel, and from the edges of the first 5 rows you knitted.
[ Editor's note: This is 27 sts, or more, or less, depending on how you adjusted the foot length. Also - when you pick up these sts you may want to work the sts through their back loops to keep them tight.]

Mark the stitch, by placing a piece of waste wool between the sts at this point. The waste wool should be about 6 inches long in an easily distinguished contrasting colour, and smooth, (for example cotton), as it will be woven between rows, and later pulled out.

Using the same No 12 working needle, pick up and purl 17 sts from side of heel flap, then purl 9 sts from the heel.

Using another No 12 working needle, purl the 9 remaining heel sts, and then purl the 16 sts you already picked up from the other side of the heel flap.

Mark the stitch with a piece of waste wool, as before.

Continuing with this needle, purl along the left side of the upper foot panel, picking up 27 sts from the edges of the first 6 rows you knitted and from the slipped edge sts.

The work is arranged on 3 needles. The picture shows the working needle in the process of knitting across the sole, and the waste wool markers in white.
[ Editor's note: This is where you need the needles to be long. I managed with 8 inch dpns but they really need to be longer to ensure you don't lose sts off the ends. While you are working and joining the sole, it might be prudent to put end stops on the two working needles.

Purl across the 32 sts at the top of the panel. Then using one of the spare needles, purl down the right side of the panel again, as far as the stitch marker.]
The marker is trapped between sts in the row below; pass the waste wool between the sts again before continuing, so that it will be trapped between the rows and continue to mark the sts for the sole section.

Do not turn the work.

Sole

Using the No 12 working needles, you are going to knit back and forth across the sole (between the markers) in stocking stitch, knitting the last stitch from each row together with one stitch from the upper foot panel.

1st Row: (Wrong side facing) Slip1, p24 from first needle, (16 sts up side of heel and 9 sts from heel flap), then purl 24 sts from second needle, up to 1 stitch before the stitch marker. Purl the last stitch of the sole section together with the first of the instep sts. [50sts between the markers]
Turn.
Continue to work sole on 3 needles, one working needle and the sts arranged evenly over the other 2.

2nd Row: (Right side facing) Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts before the marker; k2tog, ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.
3rd Row: Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, purl to the last stitch; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, shaping the sole by decreasing 2 sts on the knit rows, until 28 sole sts remain between the markers.

Then continue without shaping as follows (continuing to weave in the markers as before):

Next Row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch before the marker; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before.
Next Row: Slip 1, knit to the last st before the marker; ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all the sts from the sides of the upper foot have been joined to the sole. Do not join any of the sole sts to the 32 sts left on the 4th needle at the end of the panel.
End with a knit row. Do not turn.

Toe

Now you continue to work the sole and upper foot sts together in a round, as follows:

With right side facing, using your working needle (needle 1), knit across 32 sts from the upper foot. Knit the next 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 2), and knit the final 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 3).
Knit the first stitch from the upper foot panel on needle 1 and slip it on to the end of needle 3. Slip the last stitch from the upper foot panel on to the beginning of needle 2.

You have 60 sts arranged with 30 sts on needle 1, and 15 sts on each off needles 2 and 3.

Continue to work in rounds as follows:

[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot if your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches. Work a couple of extra plain rounds here before starting the decreasing.]

1st Round: Needle 1: k1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk2tog, knit to end.
Needle 3: knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1. [56 sts]
2nd Round: Knit.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain.
[ Editor's note: You can decrease further if you have pointed toes.]

Slip the sts from needles 1 and 2 on to one needle and graft together with the sts on needle 3.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

4 ply: 2 ozs navy, 1 oz contrast colour.

One set each of 4 double pointed needles (dpns) size 11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm).
The smaller (12) needles need to be 9 or more inches in length.

Tension

30 stitches and 32 rows to 4 inches over pattern.

Size matters

Length from top to bottom of heel, top turned down, 5 inches; length of foot 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

N is main shade (navy).
C is contrast (pink).

m1: make one by picking up the loop between sts and knitting into the back of it

ssk/ssk2tog: (slip, slip, knit) - or (slip1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over). Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops".

 

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Purple Heather Fingering, (which in this era was a pure wool 4 ply), in navy for the main shade and white for the contrast.

Example used Sunbeam St Ives Sock wool in navy and Jaeger Baby Merino 4 ply in pink (50g balls, each about 200yds) - almost all of one ball of the main, and about half of the contrast.
Both wools are now extinct I think but substitute 4ply sock wools are fairly easy to find.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Original photo from Stitchcraft April 1950, constructed using a different pattern on 2 needles with seam under sole. Generally, seams in socks are avoided so they are more comfortable to wear; a seam right under the ball of the foot cannot be ideal as sportswear. I imagine these socks were for visual impact rather than practicality.

May 2009

Polka Dots in wool and cotton

PolkaDotTop.jpg

I really liked the look of this vest top from the 1980s. I thought it would suit me, as it is sleeveless, and suitable to team with wide pants (as were popular in the eighties - and I am told are suitable for my current age and shape!).
The original was made in a flecked wool, and I did not notice that it was dotted all over. So having made the discovery of the dots, I like it even more.
The dots add to the complexity when knitting, but the shape is very simple and quick to knit.

Instructions.

This pattern is worked in several sections including intarsia techniques, (to insert the vertical colour for the cable stripes); and jaquard (to make the dots).

For the cables, and edge stitches, do not strand yarn across wrong side of work, but use separate balls: this will be 2 bobbins for the Navy cables and 2 bobbins for the Citron edge stitches. Twist the colours on wrong side where they meet to avoid a hole.

Use your main ball of wool for the centre section in Citron (main shade), again twisting it where it meets the navy cable bobbin.
When working the row of coloured dots join in and break off the navy at the beginning and end of the row.

Here is a picture of the wrong side of the work:

[ Editor's note: Yes this does mean you have to sew in all those ends ]    

Back:

With No 10 needles and contrast colour, cast on 70 [74, 78, 86, 90, 94, 102, 106, 114] sts and work in K2, P2 rib for 3 [3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] cm, (rows on right side having K2) at each end.

End with right side facing for next row and increase 1 st at end of last row (71 [75, 79, 87, 91, 95, 103, 107, 115] sts).
Change to No 8 needles and work in cables and colour pattern as follows:
1st Row: (Right side facing) K3 in main shade (M) from bobbin, k6 in contrast (C) from bobbin, knit in main shade ball to last 9 sts; k6 in C from bobbin, k3 in M from bobbin.
2nd Row: K3 in M, p6 in C; change to main shade ball M and k3, purl to last 12 sts; k3; p6 in C, k3, in M.
3rd Row: (Make row of dots) K3 in M, k6 in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p3 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again for your next purl stitch; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work) to last 15 sts, break off separate strand of contrast C; p3 in M, k3 in M, k6 in C, K3 in M.
4th Row: as second
5th Row: as first
6th Row: as second
7th Row: (Make row of dots and cable) K3 in M, C6F in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again p2 in M; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work as before) to last 15 sts; p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work, k1 in C, bring M forward again p1 in M; k3 in M, C6B in C, K3 in M.
8th Row: as second

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until back measures 34 [37, 41, 43, 46, 48, 49, 51, 51] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 13, 9, 10, 12, 11, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 rows, then cast off 12 [12,12, 10,10,10,12, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 [2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows.
Leave remaining 25 [27, 29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 37] sts on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back until front measures 26 [29, 33, 35, 37, 39, 39, 41,41] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of the pattern, divide for neck as follows:

Pattern 33 [35, 37, 41, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55] sts, k2tog, turn and leave remaining sts on a spare needle.

Continue on these 34 [36, 38, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52, 56] sts for first side, decrease 1 stitch at neck edge on every row until 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 40, 40, 42, 44 ] sts remain, then on every alt row until 23 [24, 25, 29, 30, 32, 35, 36, 39] sts remain.
Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.
Cast off 11 [12, 13, 9, 10, 12, 11, 12, 13] sts at beg of next row.
Work 1 row.

1st, 2nd, and 3rd sizes:
Cast off remaining 12 sts.

4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th sizes:
Cast off [10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 13]sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

All sizes:
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining sts, cast off centre st, k2tog, pattern to end.
Work to match first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Do not press.

Join right shoulder seam.

Left Neck Border:

With right side facing, using No 10 needles and Contrast, knit up 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42] sts down left side of neck and work 7 [7,9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] rows in p2, k2 rib, rows on wrong side having a p2 at each end. Cast off evenly in rib.

Right Neck Border:

With right side facing, using No 10 needles and Contrast, starting at centre front, knit up 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42] sts to shoulder. Knit across 25 [27, 29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 37] sts from back of neck increasing 3 [1, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 1, 3] sts evenly (58 [58, 62, 66, 70, 70, 78, 78, 82] sts).
Work 7 [7, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] rows in P2, K2 rib, rows on wrong side having P2 at each end. Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder, then sew border in position, placing right over left.
Join side seams leaving 14 [15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24] cm down from shoulder free for armhole.
[ Editor's note: This is how I have sewn the side seams, but I have noticed that some of the latest designs sew the side seams only at the welt, leaving most of the side open, with a view to wearing a top like this layered over a sleeveless summer dress.]

Press seams.

Sew on button at neck.
[ Editor's note: The button is decorative only and may be omitted if desired.]

Materials

Pure wool double knitting 50g balls: 2 [3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] in main shade, and, 1 [1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] in contrast.
A pair each of No 8 and 10 needles; (4mm and 3¼mm).

Cable needle.

1 button.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest/bust 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38,40] inches; length from top of shoulders 13½ [14½, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19½, 20, 20] inches.
The size I knitted is highlighted in bold red, and is close fitting on me (UK size 12).

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was a pure wool double knitting, yardage 120m per 50g ball.

I used Rowan Wool Cotton to make it more summery, but the yardage on wool cotton is somewhat less at 113m per 50g ball.

Main shade is 901 Citron, and, contrast is 909 French Navy.

Abbreviations:

C6F: slip next 3 sts on cable needle and leave at front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
C6B: slip next 3 sts on cable needle and leave at back of work, k3 then k3 from cable needle.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2009

Folk Cardigan for a little girl - or boy..

DucklingCardigan.jpg

Cute cardigan for a little girl with folk pattern of birds. Acceptable enough for a baby boy using a "masculine" colour (blue?!) and adapting the welts from their frilly form to a conventional rib.

Instructions:

The body of the cardigan is knitted in one piece. There are options for a plain welt as well as the frilled version - perhaps to better suit a boy.

Frilled welt:
Cast on 308 sts.

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P4, *m1, p5; repeat from *to end. [124 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 124 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

9th row: K31, place marker; k62, place marker; k31.

Duckling border:
Continue in stocking stitch.
Work the 15 rows from the chart, working left to right on the wrong side rows, and working right to left on the right side rows.

Starting with wrong side facing, set the 31 stitch pattern across the row as follows:
[Editor's note: Weave the unused colour in across the back as you knit. This tends to make the knitting rather tight so make sure you knit loosely - or - use needles one size larger while you knit these 15 rows.].

Row 1: *p1 in blue, p29 in white, p1 in blue*; p0; repeat from * to * twice; p0; repeat from * to *.

Row 15: as row 1.
Break contrast yarn.

Next row: (right side facing) Knit in main shade.
Next row: (wrong side facing) Purl in main shade.

Continue with main shade only stocking stitch until work measures 6 inches, including the frill, ending with a purl row and right side facing for next row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 22 rows in main shade after you have finished the pattern rows.]

Divide for fronts and back:
Next row: (right side facing) S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit 29st; turn. Continue on these 30 sts to make the right front, leaving remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Next row: Purl.
Next row: Knit
Next row: Purl.
Next row: S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Continue without shaping until armhole edge measures 5 inches, ending with a purl row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 40 rows for the armhole.]
Break yarn, leaving sts on a holder for grafting.

Left front:
With right side facing, slip 31sts from the holder for the left front on to a working needle, rejoin the yarn at the armhole edge, and knit 1 row. Leave the centre 62 sts on the holder to pick up later for the back.
Next row: (wrong side facing) P2tog, purl 29; turn.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl
Next row: Knit.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Complete to match the right front, ending with a knit row.

Back:
With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining 62 sts on the holder, and knit across all sts.

Work straight in stocking stitch until back matches fronts at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.

Next row: K21, cast off 20, k21.
Break yarn, leaving two lots of shoulder sts on a holder for grafting.

Join shoulders.
Graft front and back shoulder sts together.

Sleeves (both alike):
Cast on 83 sts, and work frilled welt as follows:

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P1, *m1, p3; repeat from *to last stitch, m1, p1. [39 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 39 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Now join in contrast and work 3 rows as follows.
9th row: K1 in main shade, k2 contrast; * k2 main shade; k2 contrast; repeat from * to end, (stringing the unused yarns as before across the back of the work). Break main shade yarn.
10th row: Purl across row in contrast.
11th row: Rejoin main shade and work as row 9. Break contrast yarn.
12th row: Purl across row in main shade.

Continuing in main shade only, increase one stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row, until there are 61sts. Work straight until sleeve is 8 inches long (including the frill), or to required length.

Cast off loosely, using one size larger needle.

Work second sleeve the same.

Button border:
With right side facing, using the No 9 (3½mm) circular needle as before, commencing at the right front above the frill, pick up and knit 29 sts evenly along straight edge, 29 sts evenly along shaped edge, 20 sts across back neck, then 29 sts evenly along shaped edge of left front, and finally 29 sts evenly along straight edge of left front, ending at top of frill. [136 stitches].

[Editor's note: My method for picking up sts evenly is to pick up 2 sts for every 3 row ends. I use a double pointed needle and slip it into all the alternate row ends - the ones that tend to stick out more as little bumps. Then using my working needle, I knit into 2 bumps from the dpn and then pick up an extra stitch in between the bumps.
The number of stitches you pick up will depend on how many rows you knitted in the body, so if it's not quite 136 it does not matter; you can still follow the instructions below provided you end up with an even number of stitches .]

Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.
Next row: Slip the first stitch; k1, p1, * k2tog; yarn over needle; p1; (k1, p1) 3 times repeat from * twice more, then k2tog; yarn over needle; p1, to make the 4th buttonhole.
Continue in rib as set to end of row.
Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Work one more row in rib, then cast off loosely in rib, using a larger size needle if required.

Making up:
Fold sleeves in half lengthwise, then sew into armholes placing fold at grafted shoulder seam. Join sleeve seams.
Sew in all ends.

Press lightly with a damp cloth.
Sew 4 buttons in position to match buttonholes.

Materials

3 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (125m per 50g ball), in main shade (colour shown Lavender 605).
1 ball contrast.

One circular No 9 (3½mm) needle.

Tension

24sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 9 (3½mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Instructions for 6-12 months size.
Actual chest 22 inches; full length 11 inches; sleeve 8 inches (adjustable).

A word on the wool

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is a lovely yarn, (55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere).
I like the weight of this wool, which is a fine double knitting. It combines the best of optimizing a quick-knit tension with a light weight result, as well as being durable.
Perfect for kids (and adults!).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

DucklingCardigan.jpg


February 2009

Valentine Beaded Mittens

ValentineBeadMit1.jpg

I was inspired to make these mitten patterns by brightly coloured offerings from 1975. This is the posh version, even cuter than the intarsia version I think.
They are a close fit on my hands, but though my hands are small, I tend to have short fingers only; the measurement around my hand is just over 7 inches.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn. Cast on 48 stitches, using "backward loop method" as follows: loop 2, slide a bead up next to the loops; loop 4, slide next bead into place; slide next bead into place; and so on to the last bead and then end with loop 2 [48 loops].

Knit one row.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P1, k2, p1, k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P1, CB5 (cable over 5 sts "back" by slipping the next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the back of the work; k2, then (p1, k2) from cable needle), p2; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P1, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p2; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P1, k5, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K4; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k5; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Continue straight, working from the chart for the 9 rows, and completing the three hearts.

Row 10: K1, m1, k52, m1, k1. [56 sts]

Work 4 rows straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Knit 4 rounds on these 14 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn, cast on 48 stitches, and knit one row, as for right glove.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P2, k2, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P2, CF5 (cable over 5 sts "forward" by slipping the next 2sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the front of the work; k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle), p1; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P2, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p1; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P2, k5, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

You work the thumb gusset in the same way as you did for the right glove, but set the position of the thumb differently as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts; k5; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k4. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb and the bead hearts, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball Sunbeam St Ives 4 ply in cream 3103.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles. A tiny crochet hook for placing the beads.

66 beads size 6/0
[Sanctuary Beads]

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.
The cables on the wrist tend to pull in quite tightly without the same flexibility as rib. If you are concerned about this, you might use larger needles to complete the wrist welt, or even put in an extra stitch between each cable (cast on 54) just for the welt and then decrease back to 48 evenly across the last row of the cables. If you do this your pattern repeat will be
{P1, k2, p1, k2, p3}.
And you will need to place the beads on the cast-on row with 6 or 3 loops between beads instead of 4, and you may need a few extra beads to do this.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably go for Rowan 4 ply soft, perhaps in colour 376 "Nippy".

Beading

For those of you who think "Less is More" you might prefer to work a single bead heart, positioned on row 20, with the first bead on the 7th st from the edge.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Cast on loop method

Loop the working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind; repeat this movement to form the sts.


Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.

Valentine Heart Mittens

ValentineIntarsiaMit2.jpg

I was inspired to make these mitten patterns by brightly coloured offerings from 1975. By the time I had tried out a number of versions - and had many more examples of right-hand gloves than I want or need - my final designs differ substantially from the original. But they are cute aren't they?
They are a close fit on my hands, but though my hands are small, I tend to have short fingers only; the measurement around my hand is just over 7 inches.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Using contrast colour, cast on 48 stitches; purl one row, and join into a round.

Change to main colour and knit one row.
Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2 inches from start.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K28; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Work 2 rounds straight.

Cut 6 lengths of contrast wool, about 28 inches in length, and 6 of main shade; do not use bobbins, just the lengths of wool.
Work the first row of the pattern from the chart, as follows, joining in the lengths of wool as required, repeating the 9 pattern sts 6 times:
[Editor's note: You are now going to split the knitting and work back and forth in knit and purl rows. This is in order to insert the hearts nicely using the intarsia method. I tried the Fair Isle technique but the red contrast colour showed through the white, and did not look attractive. This method does mean a little more sewing in of ends but I think the result is worth it.
You will join the round up as you reach the end of each row.]

Row 1: K4 from the ball of main shade, k1 using first strand of contrast yarn, k8 using first strand of main shade, k1 contrast using second strand of contrast, k8 using second strand of main shade, and so on the the last 4 sts; k3 in last strand of main shade, slip the last st. Still using the last working needle, pick up the st below the first st of the round and knit into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.

[Editor's note: Use the pop-up from the above picture for more detailed photos of this technique.]

Row 2: P3 in main shade, p3 in contrast, p6 in main shade, and so on; use the intarsia method and twist the two yarns together when you change colour. Continue in this way until you get to the last stitch in the row, and slip this stitch. Still using the first working needle, pick up the st below the last st of the round and purl into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.
Continue until all 6 pattern rows have been worked from the chart.

Now go back to working in the round, and continue in main shade only, using the main ball of wool.
Next round: K1, m1; knit to last 2 sts, m1, k1. Work 3 more rounds straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18 sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Distribute the 14 sts evenly across 3 needles, and work 4 rounds.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles joining in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:
Work as for the right glove until you reach the working for the thumb gusset then work as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k28 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball 4 ply in main shade, and small amount of contast colour.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles.

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably try Rowan 4 ply soft.
You need so little of the contrast it hardly seems worth buying a whole ball.

Intarsia

Here is a nice little video clip about intarsia knitting. Don't be put off by her continental knitting method.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


ValentineIntarsiaMit3.jpg


Intarsia.

Text and Pictures taken from Ethknits "How to knit" page.

Hold the working yarn in your right hand and the yarn to be woven in your left.

Changing on a knit row: Knit with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to the left and wrap yarn B across the back of A as you knit the next stitch.

Changing on a purl row: Purl with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to left and wrap yarn B under A as you bring it across to purl the next stitch.

You can see from the purl row picture that the edge resembles a sideways knitted row as on each row you cross the yarns over. This way you should get no holes. Don't worry if you see holes where the yarn is loose in some places. When you finish your work you will have lots of ends to sew in and you can pull these tight and sew up any holes that still appear.

January 2009

Winter Waistcoat

WinterWaistcoat3.jpg

Speedy, speedy knitting from the 1970s. Flattering sleeveless top, warm and simple to knit.

Instructions.

The pattern is worked back and forth on circular needles, in 5 stitch repeats over four basic rows:

1st Row: Wrong side facing, {p3, k2}.
2nd Row: {K1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2}
3rd Row: As first.
4th Row: {K2tog, yfwd, k1, p2}

Body:

Note: The back and fronts are knitted as one piece up to the armholes.

With smaller circular needles cast on {100/110}120 stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch, noting that the first row is a wrong side row.

Next Row: (Wrong side facing, 1st pattern row), knit 4 and slip this 4 sts on to a safety pin or stitch holder. Change to larger circular needles and commence pattern thus: k2, *p3,k2; repeat from * to the last 4 sts. Turn, slipping the last 4 sts onto a safety pin, without knitting them. [{92/102}112 pattern sts]
[Editor's note: these 4 sts are to be knitted separately later on the smaller needles and then sewn on to form the front borders.]

Next Row: (2nd pattern row), p2, *k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to end.

Next Row: (3rd pattern row), as first pattern row.

Next Row: (4th pattern row), p2, *k2tog, yfwd, k1, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern for 10 inches (or desired length), ending with a 4th row pattern, and wrong side facing to begin the next row.
[Editor's note: I wanted my top a little longer and knitted 12½ inches here, which was 11 four-row pattern repeats in my version.]
Change back to smaller circular needles and knit 1 row plain, (garter stitch).

†† Leave the main work on the circular needles to one side now, still with wrong side facing - the row you have just knitted is not completed until after you make the front borders.

Front Borders:

At this point you need to go back to the 4sts you left on safety pins on each side of the work, to make the front borders.

Using the pair of smaller needles, and working each set of 4sts separately, rejoin the wool and continue to knit the borders; it is important you join the wool and start knitting from the correct side of each border to continue in the right sequence for garter stitch.

This means that, provided you have followed the instructions exactly as above, for both borders, you need to join the wool at the edge which will later be sewn to the main body.
So for the right front start working on the 4sts from the wrong side, with the main body to your right, every row knitted - (the right front border is on the left when the wrong side of the work is facing you).
And for the left front start working on the 4sts from the right side, with the main body again to your right, every row knitted - (the left front border is on the left when the right side of the work is facing you).

Work each border in garter stitch until, when very slightly stretched, the border fits the length of the main body that you have just knitted, finishing the left border on a wrong side row, and the right border on a right side row. For both borders the yarn end will be at the edge next to the main body. Break the yarn.
The borders should be about half an inch* shorter than the main body so that they will fit when very slightly stretched.
*[Editor's note: half an inch is about 2 rows with this gauge of wool. The right border should be relatively slightly shorter than the left.]

Now return to your main work, on the circular needle. With wrong side facing, take up your last row of plain knitting (see the marker above ††) and complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the right front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{96/106}116sts].

Turn the work (right side facing) and knit across all {96/106}116 sts and then complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the left front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{100/110}120sts].

Now divide for front and back, with wrong side facing, knit the first {25/29}32 sts (includes your extra 4 sts at front border) and place these sts on a stitch holder, to make the left front, later.

Continuing without turning, cast on 3 sts using the working yarn, knit these 3 sts, knit {46/52}56 sts cast on 3 sts. Leave the remaining 32 sts on a stitch holder, to make the right front, later. [{52/58}62 sts].
Turn and commence working back.

Back:

With right side facing, work straight in garter stitch (every row plain) for 8 inches (or the required length for the arm hole), ending with right side facing.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 42 rows].

Shape shoulders by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and {4/5}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and leave the remaining {18/20}22 sts on a stitch holder.

Left front:

With right side facing return to the left front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

  • you are working on the left front,
  • you have the right side facing,
  • you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
  • if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32. [{28/32}35 sts]. Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge with right side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

**
To shape the neck, knit to the last {8/9}10 sts; turn and place these {8/9}10 sts on a safety pin or stitch holder. Decrease 1 st at neck edge on every row, until {17/19}20 sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge, with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, then cast off the remaining {4/5}5 sts.
**

Right front:

With wrong side facing return to the right front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

  • you are working on the right front,
  • you have the wrong side facing,
  • you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
  • if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32 sts, [{28/32}35 sts].

Commence working in garter stitch and make buttonholes on the following 6th and 28th (wrong side) rows as follows:

Buttonhole row 1: (wrong side), knit to the last 6 sts, cast off 2, knit to end.
Buttonhole row 2: (right side), k4, cast on 2 over the cast off sts from previous row, knit to end.

Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the armhole edge, ending at the armhole edge with wrong side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

Work to complete the right front exactly as the left from ** to **.

Neck Border:

With right side facing and smaller needles, starting at the top of the right front border, k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder, pick up and k9 sts up right side of neck, k{18/20}22 sts from back neck, pick up and k9 sts down left side of neck, then k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder. [{52/56}60 sts].
Work 4 rows plain in garter stitch; cast off (from wrong side).

To Make Up

Press very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder seams, using a flat seam, (or by grafting, working from the wrong side and making a purl ridge on the right side).
Sew front borders neatly in place using a flat seam, and sew in all ends.
Sew 2 buttons in place to match the position of the buttonholes.

Materials

About 7 x 100g balls of a chunky or "big" wool that knits to the required tension on 7½mm needles.

No 2 (7mm), and No 1 (7½mm) circular needles.
A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Two 1½ inch buttons.

Tension

11sts x 16 rows to four inches measured over stocking stitch on 7½mm needles.

Size matters

I made the main size shown in black text, which is a slightly large on me (UK size 12-14, maximum size 38 inches). The original pattern was multi-sized, so I have included {2 smaller size options}, in red ink with curly brackets, as shown.

They are sized to fit {34/36}38 inches, and actual sizes more like {35/38}42 inches.

Length from top of shoulder in my version is approximately 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

A word on the wool.

I used a pure wool Aran knitted double throughout, and this was about 450m as if knitted with a single strand of bulky wool.

Original knitted in Patons Pablo.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole. "Yarn forward" or "yarn over needle" is often used in conjunction with knitting 2 sts together (so you avoid increasing the overall number of sts) in knitted lace patterns.


psso: pass the slipped stitch over - "s1, k1, psso" or "slip, slip, knit" ("ssk") is a method of knitting 2 sts together but into the backs of the sts rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts. When decreasing by knitting 2 sts together, the resulting stitch "points" either to the right, (k2tog) or to the left (s1, k1, psso). They are used in combination, for example, in lace knitting, or raglan sleeve decreasing, to create symmetrical decreases.

garter stitch: the simplest stitch pattern of all - every row is knittted, (when worked back and forth on two needles), and the back and the front of the work look the same. It makes a fabric that stretches vertically.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

I have checked and double checked, that I have written all the "right" and "wrong side" instructions correctly - despite this, I remain concerned that an error may still have crept in. If you have any doubts at all, please contact me as above.

Adapting the size:

Altering the size is fairly simple, as you are knitting a big rectangle, with the pattern being a 5 stitch repeat. Working to the required gauge, means that every addition of 5 sts gives you almost 2 inches extra room. Once you get to divide the work, you change to working garter stitch (no pattern), and can work it out so that half the sts go to make the back, leaving a quarter each for the two fronts. If you do not have stitches divisible exactly by four you can put the extra ones into the back, and incorporate them into the back neck.

WinterWaistcoat4.jpg

October 2008

Hug-Me-Tight

HugMeTight1.jpg

Snug winter accessory from 1953.
"Something new in waistcoats. A modern version of the old-fashioned knitted comforter".
Proves to be very flattering for most shapes, and not just for those twig-like 1950s post-war figures.

Instructions.

The overall pattern is four basic rows:

1st Row: Right side facing, purl.
2nd Row: Knit.
3rd Row: Knit.
4th Row: Purl.

These 4 rows form the ridged pattern.

Back:

With larger needles cast on 117 sts. and work 52 rows in pattern as given above. With right side facing, shape sides by increasing one stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until there are 153 sts.

Work straight until back measures 11 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape arm-holes by casting off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 127 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures l8¾ inches, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at beginning of next 8 rows.
Cast off remaining sts.

Right Front:

With larger needles cast on 82 sts and work in pattern as for back,
shaping cross-over flap by increasing one stitch at beginning of first and following 9 alternate rows [92 sts].

Work 12 rows straight in pattern.

With wrong side facing, decrease one stitch at end of next and following 9 alternate rows [82 sts].
Next Row: Right side facing, cast off 22, knit to end.
Next Row: In pattern.

With right side facing, continue in pattern, sloping front edge and shaping side edge as follows:
Next Row: p2tog, pattern to last stitch, increase in last stitch.

Continue in pattern, sloping front edge by decreasing one stitch at beginning of every following l0th row.
At the same time increase one stitch at side edge at end of every following 6th row, 17 times more; then, keep side edge straight until this edge matches back to armhole.

With wrong side facing, continue sloping front edge on every l0th row as before, and at the same time, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at beginning of next row, then k2 tog at this edge on next 7 rows.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue sloping front edge on every l0th row as before until 40 sts remain.
Work straight in pattern until front measures 18¾ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 sts at beginning of next and following 3 alternate tows, armhole edge.

Left Front:

With larger needles cast on 60 sts. and work 52 rows in pattern.
Next Row: Increase in first stitch; pattern to last 2 sts; p2tog.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Armhole borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit 180 sts. round armhole.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: Purl.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Two Rows: k2, p2 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Front Borders:

With right side facing and smaller circular needle, pick up and knit 172 sts from top of flap to centre back of neck.
Continue and pick up and knit 212 sts round rest of neck and down left front to lower edge. [384 sts].

Work 5 border rows as for armhole borders.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join side seams. Press seams. Fasten with pin or brooch as shown in photograph.

Materials

10 x 25g balls
Rowan Yorkshire Tweed 4 ply**,
100% pure wool. ; 110m/120 yards per ball.

1 pair each of No 11 (3mm) needles, and one long No 12 (2¾mm) circular needle.

Original knitted in a 3ply wool on numbers 14, and 13 (2mm and 2¼mm) needles.

Kilt pin to fasten.

Tension

Yarn knits 28sts x 40 rows to four inches on No 11 needles.

The original tension on thinner wool is 9 sts to the inch.

Note: Do not stretch pattern when
measuring length.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-34 inches; length from top of shoulders 19 inches.
This version in a slightly thicker yarn to fit 38-40 inch bust as shown in photo.

See "adapting the size".

**A word on the wool.

I used a Rowan Tweed 4ply, which is thicker than the original wool and made the item larger overall. The actual yarn I used is no longer available but you could choose Scottish Tweed 4ply instead.

Original: Paton's Beehive Fingering 3 ply in Lipstick Red.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

Knitting in 4-ply produces a bigger size than the original but I carefully checked my tension, experimented with needle sizes, and did the arithmetic. Changing from 9st per inch to 7st per inch makes a big change from a 34 inch bust to 42. However the wrap over style offers some flexibility, and it is easy to add or subtract a few sts throughout the pattern if you need to, or even alter the waist size that you start with, and do fewer increases up to the armhole, if you feel up to it.

This style is meant to be wrapped as tightly as you like to wear it, and seems to look flattering on a range of figure types.

I wanted to make the wrap for myself, I liked the style and tried on this one before sending it off to Alison. However, the 4ply tweed made up too big for me (even with my own ample bosom!). I purchased some 2 ply on-line - fine pure wool in a cone, intended for machine knitting - so one day when I feel like working with lots of tiny stitches, I might get round to it.... (It's a lovely red - "lipstick red" ...)

HugMeTight2.jpg


September 2008

Trekking Socks

LynsSocks1.jpg

My sister was going on a summer trekking holiday and wanted some suitable socks to wear in her riding boots. I have created these simple socks in soft wool/cotton double knitting to meet the needs for a thick summer sock. I can't say how well the wool/cotton will wear as a sock wool, but the double knitting weight means they take about 5 minutes to knit (OK maybe a bit longer...).
I made the largest size for my sister (UK shoe size 5 or 6) - the smaller sizes are intended for children. You can wear the tops extended if used under riding boots, or rolled down if, perhaps, wearing shorts with heavy hiking boots.

Instructions (work 2 alike).

Cast on 36 (40;44;48) stitches loosely; divide over 3 needles and join in a round.

Work 35 rounds in k2, p2 rib (or required length).

Next Round: K1, make 1 by picking up bar between sts and knitting into the back of it; knit to last st; make 1, k1. [38 (42;46;50) sts]

Knit 5 rounds straight.

Divide for heel

Next Round: K9 (10;11;12), and then slip the last 10 sts of the round onto the other end of the same needle - these 19 (21;23;25) sts are for the heel. Divide the remaining sts between two needles, and leave for the instep.

Commence Heel

1st Row: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end.

2nd Row: Slip 1 knitwise. * K1, keeping yarn at back of work, slip 1 purlwise; repeat from * to last 2 sts; k2.

Repeat these 2 rows 8 (9;10;11) times more, then the first row again.

Turn Heel

1st Row: K13 (14;15;16) sts, slip 1, k1, psso (pass the slipped stitch over), turn.

2nd Row: Slip 1, p7, p2tog, turn.

3rd Row: Slip 1, k7, slip 1, k1, psso, turn.

Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows 3 (4;5;6) times more, then the 2nd row once.

K5, thus completing the heel. 4 sts remain unworked on the left-hand needle.

Using spare needle, knit 4 heel sts, pick up and knit 10 (12;14;16) sts along side of heel. Slip all instep sts on to one needle, and using 2nd needle knit across instep sts. Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 10 (12;14;16) sts along side of heel, then knit 5 heel sts. [48 (54;60;66) sts].

Shape instep:

1st round: Knit.

2nd round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

Repeat these two rounds until 38 (42;46;50) sts remain.

Continue on these sts until work measures 4¼(5;5¾;6½) inches, or desired length, from where sts were knitted up at the heel.

Shape Toe:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 18 sts remain.

Making Up

Knit sts from 1st needle on to end of 3rd needle.
Graft sts together. Sew in ends. Press.

Materials

2 x 50g balls Rowan Wool Cotton , shade 930, "Riviera".

One set of 4 number 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

24st and 32 rows to four inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Length of foot approximately 7½(8½;9½;10½) inches (adjustable).

A word on the wool.

Wool Cotton is possibly my favourite Rowan yarn; a 50/50 blend of soft Merino wool and cotton. I am not sure how well it will stand up to wear and tear in a sock, but the cotton should improve durability.
However, my sister reports that although they were fine (soft and lovely) while riding, they "felt like walking on a string bag" - which I have noticed myself with other handknit cotton socks and probably these are worse being larger gauge. So - either wear a thin cotton inner sock, or stick with conventional DK sock wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

LynsSocks2.jpg

Here's a picture of the socks "in use". Left to right - my sister at the rear on the grey, Susanna, Liz, and leading on the palamino, Tom, the guide.

LynTrekking2.jpg

Llanthony Riding and Trekking is based at Court Farm, next to Llanthony Priory; here's the full picture (from which the detail above is taken) showing the fabulous scenery and environment in Wales. Lyn strongly recommends the bed and breakfast accommodation that she enjoyed at Pen-y-dre Farm

LynTrekking3.jpg

August 2008

Seaside Caps

CapPlain1.jpg CapPlain2.jpg

"Capped to catch the eye" in 1952. This cap can be "worn with a purpose on windy days for cliff-top walks or out at sea, or just for extra prettiness at any time". "Leave it plain or dot with beads" - and - "for teenagers only - roll up the brim in jaunty sailor style".
Luvvly.

Instructions.

Instructions are for 2 versions - one plain and one with striped brim.
Both crowns are worked the same.

Crown
Begin at centre crown. With number 11 hook, make 4 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch. Work 6 dc through centre of ring.
In all following rounds, work through the back loop only of each dc to get a ridged effect, and mark the start of each round with coloured thread to check increasings.
[Editor's note: You just weave a piece of coloured thread between the last and first sts of each round such that you can just pull it out when you have finished.]

1st Round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twice, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th Round: As 3rd round. [32 dc]

5th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) three times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [40 dc]
6th Round: As 5th round. [50 dc]

7th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) four times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [60 dc]
8th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) five times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [70 dc]
9th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) six times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [80 dc]
10th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) seven times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [90 dc]
11th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) eight times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [100 dc]

12th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 10 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) ten times. [106 dc]
13th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [113 dc]
14th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fifteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [120 dc]
15th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) nineteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [126 dc]
16th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [132 dc]
17th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 6 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) six times. [138 dc]
18th Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

19th-34th Round: As 18th round.

This completes the crown.

Striped Brim

With number 11 hook, and white yarn, make 23 chain, turn.

Miss 1 ch 1 dc in each of 22 ch.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

††

Join in contrast.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.Join in white.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
††

Continue repeating from †† to †† until strip fits all round the lower edge of the crown. Do not stretch this strip but allow it to fit comfortably. End with 2 rows of contrast colour. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Fasten off the crown section.
Join short ends of striped brim. Pin in position round edge of crown, right side of brim to right side of crown. Oversew neatly with matching cotton; fold brim in half, and slip stitch to edge of crown on wrong side.
Sew in ends.

Plain Brim

This is worked with the yarn doubled.
Join a second strand of yarn in with the crown section, and using a number 10 hook, work 9 rounds of dc, but always working through both front and back loops of each dc in the row below.
Finish off with a row of slip stitches, but take care not to do this too tightly or the brim will be too small.

Sew in ends and optionally embroider 5 rows of beads around the crown, as shown in the photograph.
[Editor's note: I omitted the beads. You can use any free format style here that you like - for example a collection of small buttons.]

Materials

Plain: 2 x 50g ball Phildar Phil Crochet, in white, (100% cotton, 201yards).
Optional assortment of coloured glass beads.

Striped: 1 x 50g ball
in main shade, (07 Veronese), with 1 x 50g ball of contrast (white).

3 balls (2 in white) made both hat versions.

Nos. 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) crochet hooks.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

7 dc to an inch. Check the tension and your head measurement carefully; the original was made in angora which is more stretchy than pure cotton.
Note: these are UK crochet instructions - to work a double crochet: insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through both loops.

Size matters

To fit "an average head". However, the hat size can vary quite a lot according to your tension.

A word on the wool.

Original specified 2 x ½oz balls of Patons Fuzzy Wuzzy Angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Striped-brim version, and modelled original:



I was so taken with the another seaside idea on the same page as the hat that I felt compelled to share it with you here as well.

Scarf on Holiday...


...to make a girl look prettier than ever




.....TIED AT THE BACK it makes a snug bolero....

As a change from the everlasting headsquare, buy a yard of rayon or silk - ours was a yard of spotted rayon at 5/6d,
[Editor's note: For you whipper snappers out there, that's 27½p or about 60 cents.]
but silk is best if you can afford it, as it's less slippery - cut it in half lengthways, join the short ends neatly, slip hem the long raw edges, and you have a manoueverable long stole, which can be worn in all sorts of ways and is so much prettier and smarter than a triangle tied under your chin.
[Editor's note: I'm with them on that one.]





AS A CARDIGAN - round your shoulders, ends tucked up and over your belt in two comfortable pockets.

Carry it around on holiday and it will be a godsend for those chilly moments, and less bother to carry than a cardigan. Tie it round tyour waist as a sash when you don't want to carry it.

July 2008

Engaging Bouclé Top

EngagingTop1.jpg

Cool summer top from 1935, knitted in bouclé cotton/linen mix, using an eyelet lace pattern for the body, and ribbing for the yoke. I have adapted the yoke slightly, and given a better fit to the sleeves.
"This engaging affair uses a fairly thick wool (quickly knitted!)".
Here I demonstrate its versatility - it could be worn as a smart top with a skirt - or in the garden with denim shorts!

Instructions.

The basic pattern for most of the top is two basic rows:

1st Round: * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from *
2nd Round: Knit if right side facing; purl if wrong side facing.

[Editor's note: If you are knitting in the round, the alternate rounds are knitted; if you are knitting back and front on 2 needles, for example, when you divide at the armholes, then the second row is purl.]

Main body:

The back and front are knitted together in the round.

Using a No 11 (3mm) circular needle, cast on 198 stitches.
Place stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round and at the half way mark (99 sts).
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib.

Change to a No 10 (3¼mmm) needle, and work in pattern as given above, for an inch. Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and continue in pattern for another inch, then to No 8 (4mm) needles and carry on with these until work measures 13 inches from commencement, ending with a plain knit row (2nd round of pattern), but cast off the last 8 sts of the round
[Editor's note: This is about 33 eyelet rows after the rib.]

Shape armhole:

Divide front and back and work each side separately as follows:

Cast off the first 8 sts of the round, then, with one stitch on the right hand needle, commence the pattern row, and work 9 pattern repeats; k1.

Cast off the next 16 sts; then, with one stitch on the right hand needle, commence the pattern row, and work 9 pattern repeats; k1.

You should have 83 sts to work for the back and front.

Back:

Turn the work and purl back across 83sts.

Continue working back and forth across these 83 sts in pattern as set, starting and ending each row, with one plain knitted stitch. Work 2 inches (about 6 more eyelet rows), ending with a purl row.
[Editor's note: This is about 39 eyelet rows after the rib.]

Here shape the neck.

Next Row: k1, * k2tog, k2, wool forward, k1, wool forward, k2, k2tog * ; put the next 63 stitches on to a spare needle; join in a second ball of wool, repeat from * to * once, k1. Continue on the latter 10 stitches till work measures 19½ inches from commencement. Cast off 9 stitches from armhole end.
[Editor's note: Or you can finish on row 1 of the pattern and leave the sts on a holder so you can graft the shoulders together, with a plain grafting stitch.]

Finish off the opposite shoulder to match.

Front:

Rejoin the yarn to other set of 83sts, with wrong side facing, and purl back across 83sts.

Complete the front exactly as you did the back.

Yoke:

Join the shoulders either by stitching or grafting.

Using the No 10 needles with points at both ends, or a circular needle, and with the right side of the work facing, knit up 236 stitches, starting at a shoulder seam as follows:
28sts down the side of the neck, from the shoulder seam, 63 across the front (from the spare needle), 55 up the right side of the neck, 63 across the back of the neck (from the spare needle), 27 up the side of the neck.
If you are using double pointed needles, divide the stitches as follows: 79 on the first and third, and 78 on the second, or if you are using a circular needle, place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round.

1st Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times; p2tog; p1, (k2, p2) fourteen times; k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2) thirteen times, k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2); fourteen times, k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2) seven times.
2nd Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times, p2tog, (k2, p2) fourteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) thirteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) fourteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) seven times.
3rd Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times, k2tog, k1, p2, (k2, p2) thirteen times; k1, k2tog, k2, (p2, k2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, (p2, k2) thirteen times; p2, k1, k2tog, (k2, p2) seven times.
4th Round: (k2, p2) six times; k2, k2tog, p2, (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k2; (p2, k2) twelve times; p2, k2, k2tog, (p2, k2) thirteen times; p2, k2tog; (k2, p2) seven times.
5th Round: (k2, p2) six times; k1, k2tog, p2; (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, p2; (k2, p2) 12 times, k1, k2tog, p2; (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, p2; (k2, p2) six times.
Continue decreasing in this manner until the yoke measures 3 inches from the commencement.

Cast off in pattern.

[Editor's note: It took me a while to work out the "continue decreasing in this manner" so at the end of the instructions I am including my explanation of the yoke decreasing. Rounds 2 through 5 are the four decreasing rows that are repeated.]

Sleeves:

With right side facing and using No 8 needles, pick up and knit 67 sts around the head of the sleeve, (leave the cast off armhole sts).

You will knit backwards and forwards in pattern across these sts, shaping the sleeve by knitting short rows.
Purl 1 row.

1st Row: K2, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
2nd Row: P2tog, purl to the last 2 sts, p2tog. [65sts].
3rd Row: K1 * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * 4 times more; wrap next stitch, by putting yarn forward, slipping the next st on the the right needle, putting the yarn back to the back of the work, and then slipping the slipped st back on to the left hand needle again; turn. [You turn with 19 sts left on the needle].
4th Row: P27, wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 19 sts left on the needle].
5th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * once; wrap next stitch; turn, [You turn with 28 sts left on the needle].
6th Row: P9, wrap next stitch; turn.
7th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * across all sts to last st, k1.
8th Row: Purl.
9th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * 5 times more; wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 10 sts left on the needle].
10th Row: P45, wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 10 sts left on the needle].
11th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * across all sts to last st, k1.
12th Row: Purl.
13th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * to the last st, k1.
14th Row: Purl.

Knit the next 3 rows.
Cast off (from wrong side) knitwise.

Making Up

Sew up sleeve seams under the arms, and sew in all ends.

Sew four buttons up each of the two front corners of yoke.

Materials

5 x 50g balls Stylecraft Sirocco 80% cotton, 20% linen; 98yds/90m per ball.

Numbers 8, 9, 10, and 11 (4, 3¾, 3¼ and 3mm) circular needles.

8 decorative buttons.

Tension

Yarn knits to 20st and 28 rows to four inches on No 8 needles.

One pattern = 1½ in on No 8 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34 inches; length 18 inches.
This version in a slightly thicker yarn fits 36-38 inch bust as shown in photo, and instructions are for a 20 inch length.

A word on the wool.

I wanted to knit this in a bouclé or slub cotton and just could not find what I wanted - there is the fabulous Debbie Bliss Astrakhan, but that is too wintry and thick. Then, in a local haberdashers, I found this Stylecraft yarn which is absolutely what I was looking for and has the benefit of being natural fibre and very good value!

Original: Paton's Super Brindle, which comes (came) in white flecked with colours. This was probably finer than Sirocco - more a straight DK at 22 sts per 4 inches I am guessing.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Additional Instructions for Yoke Decreasing:

These follow the foundation decreasing "Round 1". Instead of writing out every stitch, I have indicated the number of sts between the decreases; "rib" means k2 p2 rib, following the ribs as set out in the row below.

2nd Round: rib 26, p2tog, rib 58, p2tog, rib 54, p2tog, rib 58, p2tog, rib 28.
3rd Round: rib 26, k2tog, rib 56, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 56, k2tog, rib 28.
4th Round: rib 26, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 28.
5th Round: rib 25, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 52, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 27.

6th Round: rib 24, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 50, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 26.
7th Round: rib 24, p2tog, rib 52, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 52, p2tog, rib 26.
8th Round: rib 24, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 26.
9th Round: rib 23, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 48, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 25.

10th Round: rib 22, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 46, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 24.
11th Round: rib 22, k2tog, rib 48, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 48, k2tog, rib 24.
12th Round: rib 22, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 24.
13th Round: rib 21, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 44, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 23.

14th Round: rib 20, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 42, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 22.
15th Round: rib 20, p2tog, rib 44, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 44, p2tog, rib 22.
16th Round: rib 20, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 22.
17th Round: rib 19, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 40, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 21.

18th Round: rib 18, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 38, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 20.
19th Round: rib 18, k2tog, rib 40, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 40, k2tog, rib 20.
20th Round: rib 18, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 20.
21st Round: rib 17, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 36, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 19.

22nd Round: rib 16, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 34, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 18.
23rd Round: rib 16, p2tog, rib 36, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 36, p2tog, rib 18.
24th Round: rib 16, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 18.
25th Round: [Cast off in pattern as you go]; rib 15, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 32, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 17.

EngagingTop2.jpg EngagingTop3.jpg

June 2008

Trim crochet gloves

TrimGloves1.jpg

Chic summer gloves from 1955, worked in cotton crochet, though not lacy.
Elegant but not frilly - "these trim gloves are crisp and fresh". Definitely to be worn with pill-box hat and veil rather than Edwardian sunshade, (or in practice - neither - but you get the idea).
Original worked in white with black trim. Very Audrey Hepburn.

Instructions (both hands alike).

Beginning at the side edge with main colour, make 41 chain, turn.

Start with little finger
1st Row: Miss 1 ch., * 1 half treble in each ch.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch.
2nd Row: * 1 h.tr. in each h.tr.; repeat from * to end; break cotton and rejoin at other end.

Begin third finger
3rd Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 19 ch. for 3rd finger, 1 ch. to turn.

**
4th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each ch; 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.tr. to end, turn with 2 ch.
5th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch.
6th Row: Repeat last row once more.**

Begin middle finger
7th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 21 ch. for middle finger, 1 ch. to turn.
Repeat from ** to ** once.

Begin first finger
11th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 19 ch. for 1st finger, 1 ch. to turn.
Repeat from ** to ** once.

Begin thumb
15th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 19 h.trs., 14 ch. for thumb, 1 ch. to turn.
16th (short) Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in next 14 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn;
17th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 21 h.trs., turn with 2 ch.
18th (short) Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 24 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn.
19th Row: * 1 h.tr. in each h.tr.; repeat from * to end. Fasten off.

[Editor's note: You end here at the top of the thumb. One half of the glove is complete - this half covers the back of the hand.]

Now keeping same side of glove piece facing you, rejoin to beginning of row, and work 1 long row dc. up side of thumb and all round fingers, ending at top of little finger.

TrimGloves5.jpg

Now work down side of little finger to wrist thus:
[Editor's note: You are working the other half of the glove now - the palm side.]

Little finger
1st Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch. Repeat last row 4 times more, turning with 1ch on last row.

Third finger
††
6th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 13 h.trs., 19 ch. for next finger; 1 ch. to turn.
7th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of the 19 ch; 1 h.tr. in 13 h.tr. [that is 32 h.trs. in all], 1 dc in each 12 dc; turn with 2 ch.
8th Row: 1 h.trs.in each 12 dc, * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
9th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 1 ch. ††

Middle finger
10th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 13 h.trs., 21 ch. for middle finger, 1 ch. to turn.
11th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of the 21 ch; 1 h.tr. in 13 h.tr. [that is 34 h.trs. in all], 1 dc in each of 12 dc turn with 2 ch.
12th Row: 1 h.tr.in each of 12 dc, * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
13th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 1 ch.

First finger
Repeat from †† to †† once - as for third finger.

Thumb
18th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 14 ch. for thumb, 1 ch. to turn.
19th (short) Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in next 14 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn.
20th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 21 h.trs., turn with 2 ch.
21st (full) Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 24 h.trs., * 1dc into next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
22nd Row: 1 h.tr. into each stitch to top of thumb. Do not fasten off.

Continue with row, working a row of dc. down inner side of thumb and round all fingers, ending at top of little finger, where you finished your row of dc when working the other side; fasten off.

Make another glove in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts very carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join sides and fingers by oversewing.
[Editor's note: The original gloves were made in white, so the instructions here say to use with white sewing cotton. So either use a toning sewing cotton or do as I did and use the main yarn to sew up]

Remember to turn second glove inside out for other hand.
[Editor's note: The original gloves are made identically, but have a specific side for the palms, so you need to fold and sew them up opposite ways in order to create right and left hands.
If this helps: after you have sewn up the first glove and then turned it right side out, sew up the second glove to look exactly the same orientation as the first - then when you turn it right side out, it will be the reverse of the first glove.].

Cuffs

With main colour yarn, make 45 ch., turn.
[Editor's note: This strip is eased to fit bottom of the glove, but it does have to fit around your wrist, plus allowing for a little overlap - I found that although the glove fitted me, 45 chain were not sufficient to create the strap - so I used 51 chain.]

1st Row: Miss 1 ch., * 1 dc in each ch.; repeat from * to last ch., 2 dc in last ch.; turn with 1 ch.
2nd Row: 2 dc in first dc; * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 1 ch.
3rd Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 2 d.c. in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
4th Row: As 2nd row.
5th Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 1 slip st in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
6th Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 1 ch.
7th Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 1 slip st in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
8th Row: As 6th row. Fasten off.

With contrast yarn, work 1 row of dc all round cuff.
[Editor's note: As it's left to your own judgement, do not work too many dc across the short straight edge, or it will splay out and the curved edge will not cover it properly for the overlap.]

Sew cuff neatly round glove with contrast edging overlapping edge of main work and with opening in centre of back; rounded edge comes below 3rd finger and slightly overlaps straight short edge of cuff.
Sew press-studs to cuff to fasten invisibly.
[Editor's note: I used a non-sew fastener (9 or 10mm) - the kind you apply with pliers or a supplied tool. You need to apply this before you put on the decorative contrast circle.]

TrimGloves3.jpg

Work a small circle of dc in contrast and sew in position on top of cuff as shown in photograph.
[Editor's note: I used Coats No 20 crochet cotton worked double for my contrast navy - so for the circles I used the cotton singly with a much smaller hook. I made a ring and worked 7 dc into it; I then worked a second round of 2 dc into every dc. This wasn't quite big enough, so I work a round of slip sts to finish.]

TrimGloves4.jpg

Materials

1 x 50g ball Phildar Phil Crochet, shade 07 Veronese, (100% cotton, 201yards), with a small amount of navy blue for contrast.
One number 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.
Two press fasteners.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
h.tr = half treble
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

6 half trebles to an inch.
Note:
these are UK crochet instructions - to work a half treble: wool over hook, insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through all three loops.

Size matters

To fit "an average hand".

A word on the wool.

Original specified 2 x 1oz balls of Strutt's Milford Knitting Cotton No. 8 in white, with scraps of black 4-ply wool for edging.

The single 50g ball of Phil Crochet was only just enough at 201yds.

For winter gloves, they could be easily worked in wool instead of cotton for those who don't like to knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Your finished gloves.
Editor's note: "So what's all this messing about with a bunch of flowers?" - I was trying to emulate the original photo shoot, and found it surprisingly hard. I had to get George to take the photo and he did not seem focussed enough on (a) yes I did want the flowers in the photo not just a load of stems, (b) but it is supposed to be a centred around the gloves and not a bunch of flowers, and (c) o I wish I had slim elegant fingers, and maybe 4 arms so I could take the photo myself...

TrimGloves2.jpg


May 2008

Pretty Summer Woolley

PrettyWoolley1.jpg PrettyWoolley2.jpg PrettyWoolley3.jpg

Summer jacket from 1935 has an unusual design that is quite fun to work. It was given only in one nominal size, but has some flexibility for your own alterations. I simply love the way this has turned out; the bamboo yarn is so soft and comfortable. On finishing, I immediately wore it all the next day.

Diagonal Rib Pattern

Sleeves and lower part of jumper are knitted in a k2, p2 rib, with the rib carried one stitch sideways on each row.

The following 4 rows form the pattern, worked over an odd number of stitches.

Row 1: (k2, p2) repeated to centre stitch; knit centre stitch; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 2: p1, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 5 sts; k2, p1, purl centre stitch, p1, k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last st, p1.
Row 3: (p2, k2) repeated to centre stitch; purl centre stitch; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 4: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 7 sts; p2, k1, purl centre stitch, k1, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.

DiagonalRib.jpg

Cable Pattern

The yoke of the jumper is knitted in cable ribbing, where the stitch between the cables is subsequently dropped to form "ladders".
To work the 8-stitch cables twisting to the right, (cable "back" abbreviated to C4B), slip 4 sts on to a cable needle, and leave at back of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.
To work the 8-stitch cables twisting to the left, (cable "front" abbreviated to C4F), slip 4 sts on to a cable needle, and leave at front of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.

When the sts are dropped, pull them back to where you started the cables, above the diagonal rib, and secure the stitch by running a thread through and stitching on the inside.
[Editor's note: Be extra careful with the bamboo yarn; it is very slippery, the ladders run very easily, and the yarn splits, making it the devil to pick up a stitch dropped accidentally.]

Back

Using No. 12 needles and main colour (blue), cast on 104 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, (approximately 25 rows), increasing one stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No. 9 needles and purl one row. [105 sts]

Work the 4-row pattern 10 times, then the first two rows again, (42 rows).

[Editor's note: The origonal instructions were to work the 4-row pattern 14 times as it was intended for a thinner yarn. For my version, in the bamboo yarn, I worked 16 rows fewer up to the start of the cables, as well as 16 rows fewer in the armhole section (see notes below) which brought the welt up to sit on my hips as shown in the photo.]

Row 43: (p2, k2) repeated to centre stitch; knit centre stitch; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row. (ie pattern row 3 with 5 sts knitted in the middle).
Row 44: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 7 sts; p7 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1. (ie pattern row 4 with 5 sts knitted in the middle).
Row 45: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 9 sts; k9 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 46: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 11 sts; p11 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 47: p2, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 13 sts; k13 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 48: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 15 sts; p15 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 49: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 17 sts; k17 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 50: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 19 sts; p19 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 51: p2, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 21 sts; k21 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 52: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 23 sts; p23 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 53: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 25 sts; k25 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 54: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 27 sts; p27 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.

Now start the striped pattern:

Row 55: K38 sts in pattern as set in blue; join on white: k6, cable C4B, k1, cable C4F, k6; join on another ball of blue and finish row in pattern.
Row 56: Pattern 37 sts blue; purl 31 white; pattern k37 sts blue.
Row 57: Pattern 36 sts blue; knit 33 white; pattern 36 sts blue.

Continue as on last 2 rows. increasing number of white stitches for 5 more rows (i.e.. finally 31 blue; 43 white; 31 blue).

Row 63: Work in blue right across row: 30 sts in pattern; k5, (C4B, k1) twice, (C4F, k1) twice, k4; 30 sts in pattern.
Row 64: Pattern 29 sts; p47; pattern 29 sts.

Continue thus for 6 more rows in blue, still taking 2 more into stocking stitch in each row (23 pattern sts on each side).

Row 71: Pattern 22 sts blue; join on white: k4, (C4B, k1) 3 times, (C4F, k1) 3 times, k3; join on blue pattern 22 sts.
Row 72: Pattern 21 sts blue; purl 33 white; pattern 21 sts blue.

Continue thus for 6 more rows.

Row 79: Work in blue right across row: 14 sts in pattern; k3, (C4B, k1) 4 times, (C4F, k1) 4 times, k2; 14 sts in pattern.
Row 80: Pattern 13 sts; p79; pattern 13 sts.

Shape armhole:
Rows 81 & 82: Still taking one stitch more at each side of centre piece, cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Rows 83: k2tog at beginning and end of row.
Row 84-86: Work 3 rows in pattern without decreasing.
**
Row 87: Change to white: k4, (C4B, k1) 5 times, (C4F, k1) 5 times, k3.
Continue in stocking stitch for 7 rows.

Repeat from ** with alternate colours 4 times, then repeat row 87 row in blue.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the pattern 6 times here. I worked a shorter arm hole here which worked out for my own measurements - see section on sizing. You can work the armhole to a suitable length according to your size and your yarn; however, if you do make alterations, remember to work the same length on the fronts, and prepare to do some compensation on the sleeve decreasing.]

Work 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Row 131: Cast off 2, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; knit to end.
Row 132: Cast off 2 purlwise, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; purl to end.
Row 133: Cast off 7, drop 1 st, cast off 1 more very loosely as before; knit to end.
Row 134: As 149th row but purl.
Now cast off remaining sts, dropping stitches between cables.
[Editor's note: You may want to catch the all the dropped sts with safety pins at this point in the construction, until you are ready to sew up and secure the sts in the right place.]

Ladders.jpg

Right Front

Using No. 12 needles and main colour (blue), cast on 66 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, (approximately 30 rows), increasing one stitch at the end of the last row. [67 sts].
Change to No. 9 needles and purl one row.

Row 1: k15; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 2: p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last 14 sts; k1, p13..
Row 3: k. 13, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 4: k1; (p2, k2) repeated to last 14 sts; p14.
Row 5: k4; cable C4F; k3; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 6: p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last 14 sts; k1, p13.
Row 7: k. 13, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 8: k1; (p2, k2) repeated to last 14 sts; p14.

Repeat these 8 rows 4 times.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the pattern 6 times here. I worked a shorter length here to match the back]

Row 41: k15; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 42: As 2nd but purl last 16 stitches.
Row 43: k17; p2, (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 44: As 4th but purl last 18 stitches.
Row 45: k4; cable C4F; k7; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 46: As 2nd but purl last 20 stitches.
Row 47: k. 21; p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 48: As 4th but purl last 22 stitches.
Row 49: k.23; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 50: As 2nd but purl last 24 stitches.
Row 51: k25; p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 52: As 4th but purl last 26 stitches.
Row 53: Join in white: k4; cable C4F; k1; cable C4F; k6. Join in blue: (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 54: As 2nd. ending k. 2. Purl last 28 stitches in white.
Continue for 6 rows in pattern, working 1 more stitch in white on each row.

Row 61: All blue. K4, (C4F, k1) twice, C4F, k5; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue for 7 more rows as before, working 1 more stitch into stocking-stitch border in front on each row.

Row 69: Join in white: k4; (C4F, k1) 4 times, k3. Join in blue: (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue for 7 more rows as before.

Row 77: All blue. K4, (C4F, k1) 5 times, k2; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue as before for 4 more rows.

Shape armhole:
Row 82: Cast off 5, k1, p2. k2, purl to end.
Row 83: Knit to within 5 from end, p2, k1, k2tog.
Row 84: K2tog, k1, purl to end.

Row 85: Join on white: k4; (C4F, k1) 5 times; k9, k2tog.
Row 86: P2 tog, purl to end. [58 sts]
Row 87: Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [57 sts]
Row 88: P2 tog, purl to end. [56 sts]
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Row 93: All blue. K4; (C4F, k1) 5 times; k3. [52 sts]
Work 7 rows stocking stitch.

Work 2 more cable stripes alternately in white and blue, working only 3 rows in stocking stitch after the cable row on the second blue stripe.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the stripes 4 times here, working 3 rows on the 4th stripe. I worked a shorter armhole here to compensate for the heavier yarn weight as on the back - see sections on wool and sizing.]

Row 113: Cast off 2, break wool and pull through last stitch; drop 1. Join on again.
[Editor's note: You have effectively cast off 3 and dropped one stitch - so you are 4 sts fewer on the needle].
Continue pattern. decreasing 1 stitch every row at neck-edge, not forgetting to drop stitches between cable, until 33 stitches are left.
[Editor's note: You don't count the dropped sts as decreases]
Work 3 straight rows (i.e. you have done 4 rows of the 2nd blue cable after armhole decreasings).
[Editor's note: With the original pattern on thinner yarn you would have worked the 4th blue cable after the armhole decreasings]
Cast off shoulder to match back:
Row 129: Work 1 row straight to the armhole edge.
Row 130: Cast off 2 purlwise, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; purl to end.
Row 131: Knit
Row 132: Cast off 7 purlwise, drop 1 st, cast off 1 more very loosely as before; purl to end.
Row 133: Cast off remaining sts, dropping stitches between cables.

Left Front

Cast on and work in ribbing as for right front; change to No. 9 needles and purl one row on 67 sts.

Row 1: k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 2: p13, k1; (p2, k2) repeat to last st, p1.
Row 3: p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 4: p13, p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 5: k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last 13 sts, k1, cable C4B, k4.
Row 6: p13, k1; (p2, k2) repeat to last st, p1.
Row 7: p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 8: p13, p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.

Continue with these rows in pattern as set, reversing the shapings and making the two fronts correspond.

Sleeves (work 2 alike).

Cast on 62 stitches on No.12 needles.
Rib 10 rows, k1, p1, increasing once at end of last row.
Purl 1row on No.9 needles.[63 sts]
Work in pattern for 4 rows.

Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Work 7 rows pattern.
Keep continuity of pattern and repeat last 8 rows 7 times.
Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Work 2 more rows. [81 sts]

Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every row for 5 rows, then on every alternate row until 31 sts remain.
Decrease at each end of every row until 15 sts remain; cast off remaining 15 sts.

[Editor's note: The instructions above are as I worked the sleeve but are completely different fom the original. Below are the original instructions in case you are working in the fine fingering weight wool.]

Here are the original instructions for the 3 ply weight yarn:
Cast on 80 stitches on No.12 needles.
Rib 10 rows, k1, p1, increasing once at end of last row.
Purl 1 row on No. 9 needles.

Work 7 rows in pattern.
Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Keep continuity of pattern and repeat last 8 rows 4 times.
Work 4 more rows.
Decrease once at each end of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

[My sleeve length is to the elbow. The original sleeve was made much shorter and a different shape.]

Collar

On No. 12 needles, pick up 104 stitches round neck: 33 sts from each front and side neck, and 38 sts across the back.
Work in k1, p1, ribbing for 10 rows, change to No. 9 needles and rib 10 more rows, (approximaterly 2½ inches).
Cast off loosely in rib, using a larger sized needle if necessary, (for example No. 8).
[Editor's note: Original instructions picked up 170 sts for the collar (50 each side, 70 across back).]

Making Up

Drop stitches between cables. Catch these stitches (and sew in) on the wrong side to prevent running into the diagonally ribbed pattern.
Press with damp cloth and hot iron.
Match cables at shoulder seams and darn ends across holes formed.
Join side seams and sew in sleeves.
Work 4 rows of double crochet down left front (work rather tightly and then stretch under iron, to prevent sagging in wear).
[Editor's note: I picked up two thirds of the row ends across the welt (approximately 20dc) and every alternate row end up the rest of the front (approximately 57dc) . I worked the crochet very loosely up the main body of the band, and more tightly when working the part across the side of the welt.
You have some flexibility here to increase the bust size slightly by working additional rows.]

Sew on 7 white buttons down front.
Work 3 rows of double crochet down right front, then a 4th row with loops of 8 chain opposite buttons.
[Editor's note: My loops were 8 chain positioned on the 11th dc with 10 dc between them. To work the loops: (1dc into next dc; chain 8; 1 slip st into same dc; 10 dc into next 10 dc) repeat. However it's a good idea to sew on the buttons evenly first, and work the loops to match the positions.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 6oz of main and 1oz white in "3 ply".
Example shown is knitted in 12 x 50g balls Rowan Bamboo Soft in main shade (colour: Cambria 109) and 2 x 50g balls in white.

One pair each of numbers 12 (2¾mm) and 9 (3¾mm) needles. One cable needle. One No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

Seven buttons, approximately 1 inch. The original shows rather larger buttons as part of the styling.

Tension

Original states 32st to an inch over diagonal rib on No 9 needles.

Size matters

No size given originally - knitted example measured 36-38 inches. My version is knitted with fewer rows than stated in the original pattern (my deviations noted in red); this is - as intended - to keep the cardigan waist length like the original, but with longer sleeves. The result is a good fit for me (a chubby UK size 12), shaped to be fitted around the bust, under the arms, and into the waist, but with a good degree of ease.

See the section on sizing.

A word on the wool.

Rowan Bamboo Soft, is a light weight DK which knits to a tension of 25sts and 30 rows to 4 inches; 102m/112yds to 50g.
This is a dense yarn, and thicker than the vintage yarn, so requires a lot more yarn than specified in the original pattern.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Sizing and yarn choices

The original pattern seems to be intended as a neat fitting jacket in a fine yarn, knitted on larger needles.

I calculated the chest size (one size only given) as working out to only 28 inches, which even for the era seemed a bit small, so I felt confident in moving to a thicker yarn, based on the needle size. What I had failed to take into account, is that when you drop the stitches between the cable, the chest size expands a lot. Purely guessing I would say the original size using fine yarn was intended for a 33 to 35 inch bust.

The design of the cables and ladders, means that the cardigan is in fact self-shaping. In my version, the measurement for the back just above the welt is about 16 inches, and this increases to about 18 inches by the time you get to armholes. This gives you a nominal 36-38 inch bust size as the fronts are slightly larger and you can choose, within limits, to have fewer or more rows of crochet to form the front closure bands.

To increase the length of the cardigan, you can follow the areas marked in red where I have altered the rows. Preferably stick with adding or subtracting in chunks of 8 for simplicity.

To make tweaks to the bust size you can add in crochet rows at the front. To make a significant alteration is slightly more difficult; in order to keep the symmetry of the cables you really need to add in two cables on the back and one each on the front, which would make a difference of 36 sts, and in the yarn I used this would be about 5½ inches.
But please note: This cardigan fits me well, and still looks as shown in the pictures; however the bamboo yarn has eased considerably with wear - I now think I could easily have removed an even 4 cable patterns (5½ inches) and still have a nicely fitting cardigan.

Finally, you can of course make overall size changes by using substitute yarns of other weights. This design is pretty tolerant of such changes, as I discovered, but you risk ending up with a different look - anything from the tiny figure-hugging waist length jacket of the original to a longer altogether looser cardigan style. If you are up to it, you can of course check your tension and work it all out beforehand, but remember the effect of the ladders is to much increase the finished size above that implied by the tension.

Here is a popup of the original picture for comparison with my version:


March 2008

Easter Bunnies - slippers

BunnySlippers.jpg

A charming pattern from Alison for a pair of child's slippers, first knitted for her niece, Nancy.

©Alison Pate 2007

Instructions

Work two slippers the same as follows:

Sole and foot - Cast on 28 sts in white
Knit in stockinette for 4.5 inches ( this is the length of the foot from the back of the heel to start of toes)

At start of toes k1p1 rib for 2 inches

Next row: p2 tog across entire row (14 sts)
Next row: repeat: p2 tog across entire row (7 sts)

Draw thread through remaining stitches and secure, leaving a long thread. Sew up the edges of the ribbed section to form the toe. The seam is centred along the top of the foot and will be covered later by the head.

Heel - Pick up 10 stitches from middle of cast on row, leaving 18sts (9 on each side of the 10 you have picked up). You will pick up and incorporate these 18 sts as you work the back of the heel.

Work 15 rows on these 10 sts in stockinette as follows:

Row 1: K9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and knit it together with the last st of the row. Turn.
Row 2: P9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and purl it together with the last st of the row. Turn

Continue in this way for 12 rows in all.

Row 13: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, knitting the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 14: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, purling the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 15: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, and K2 tog repeated across the row.

Bind off remaining 6 stitches.

In sewing the toe centre seam, and working the heel you have pulled up the sides to form the slipper shape.

[Editor's note: If the 'cuff' of the slipper is loose you can work a row of single crochet around the edge of the slipper and pull in the shape a little. I used the pink for this.].

Head - knit 2 in white.

Cast on 10 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [20 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1.5 inches.
Next row: K2tog across the row [10 sts].
Bind off leaving long tail.

Using spare yarn, embroider a pink nose, and crescent shapes for closed eyes, using the picture as a guide.

Loosely stuff head and use long tail to sew around edge and pull in making a small flat ball.

Ears - knit 4 in white and 4 in pink

Cast on 2 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [4 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1 inch.
Next row: K2tog across the row [2 sts].
K2tog and bind off.

Sew a white to a pink ear using blanket stitch.

Finishing - Sew ears firmly to back of head at jaunty angle.
Sew head to slippers covering the seam on the toe section.

Tail - (optional) make 2 small pompoms and attach to heels of slipper.

Materials

Dishcloth cotton - white and pink (Lily Sugar n'Cream cotton.).
I used just over one ball of white and a scrap of pink.

1 pair 5mm needles. .

Tension

20 sts and 26 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles.

Size matters

Fits feet 7" long (age 4 or so).
To adjust the length - knit the plain stockinette section for longer.
To adjust for width cast on more stitches, make sure you increase the heel pick up stitches in proportion.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2008

Mittens for the Forces

Forces_mittens.jpg

These are double layered mittens which have suddenly become popular again (probably more the height of fashion a year or so ago - as well as half a century ago). This pattern is from February 1940. Here the thumb is left free; in some designs of this era, the thumb and forefinger are left free - your "trigger finger " I assume.
"The glove mitts are a sensible idea, ensuring both warmth and freedom of movement. Instructions are given for both men's and women's sizes".
The different sizes are achieved by using different wool weights and needles.

Instructions (both hands alike)

Using No. 14 (2mm) needles cast on 48 stitches, and work in k2, p2 rib in rounds for 2½ inches.

Next row: Knit twice into every stitch.

Now slip every alternate stitch (ie every "made" stitch) on to No 12(11) needles and leave the original 48 sts on the No14 needles on the outside of the work.

[Editor's note: The original instructions expect you to continue to knit on the larger needles, leaving the outer sts on the No 14 needles. I found this very awkward; I thought it would improve as I got further up the glove but it did not.
So I took the trouble, after I had slipped the sts as shown, to thread the outer sts onto waste yarn (slippery yarn, as the Tweed wool is felty), and then when I had finished the inner glove, rethread them back on to the 14 needles.]

Continue on the No 12(11) needles, on the "made" sts, in rounds of plain knitting, and work 2 rows straight.

3rd round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last st, knit twice into it.
Knit 2 rounds.

6th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 2sts, knit twice into next st, k1.
Knit 2 rounds.

9th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 3sts, knit twice into next st, k2.
Knit 2 rounds.

Continue in this way, increasing on every 3rd row at either side of the thuumb, until there are 66 sts on the needles.

Divide for thumb
Next round: K8; leave next 50 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 8 sts of round. [20sts]

Continue on these 20 sts for 22 rounds.
Next round: K2tog all round.
Next round: Knit
Next round: K2tog all round.
Draw thread through remaining sts and fasten off.

Rejoin wool to continue with the main part of the mitten:
remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base of the thumb, then knit the 50 sts from the holder. [54sts]

Work 18 rounds straight on these 54 sts.

Divide for fingers
Next round (forefinger): K10; leave leave next 38 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 6sts of round. [20sts]

Work 3 rounds straight on these 20 sts, then work 4 rounds k1, p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Next round (middle finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base forefinger. Knit first 6 sts from holder; cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; slip the last 6 sts on holder onto a needle and knit them. [20sts]

Complete as for forefinger.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base third finger, and knit the remaining 14 sts from holder. [18sts]

Work as before over these 18 sts.

Over-mitten
Now return to sts left on the No 14 needles at the wrist.
[Editor's note: Or - thread the sts on the spare wool back on to the No 14 needles.]
Join in the wool at the beginning of the round, (base of the thumb), and with No 11 (10) needles, work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), for 5 inches.

Next row (right side facing): K2tog; k21; k2tog; k21; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.
7th row: K2tog; knit to centre; k3tog; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.

Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing as for 7th row on every 6th row until 37 sts remain.
Work 3 rows straight.
Then decrease in the same way on every row until 9 sts remain.
Cast off.

Making up
Press stocking-stitch portions with a damp cloth. Darn in all ends. Insert zip down side of outer mitten, starting at top and ending with the pull just above the thumb; join the remainder of seam across top of fingers. The edges of the outer mitten should fit nicely round the thumb; finish these with a row of double crochet.

Mit_zips.jpg

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 25g balls Rowan 4ply Tweed.

Set of 4 each of numbers 14, 12 and 11 (UK size) needles for the smaller size, and 14, 11 and 10 for the larger size.
A number 12 crochet hook.

Two 4-inch zip fasteners.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 1 inch

Rowan 4ply tweed tension: 28st and 40rows to 4 inches (10cm) using No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit size 6¼-7, or 7½-8½ inch hand.

A word on the wool.

Original calls for 2oz 3 ply for girl's size [sic] and 3oz 4ply for man's size.
I have often read that older 3 or 4 ply wools were thicker than 3 or 4 plies of today; I have not really noticed that before in practice - however I think a large man's mitten could be knitted in guernsey 5ply or a light weight DK, like Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 



Balaclava.jpg
This 'good old Balaclava helmet' was included in the item "More Knitteds for the Forces".
I know - they are nice and warm - and they can be useful on the slopes - but I'm given to understand that beanies are more the thing currently, so I have spared you the details!
Let me know if, (your imagination no doubt fired by the hunk on the left), you want to knit it.

I'm afraid I also have to report that George says these are the silliest mittens he has ever had. Good thing he was not called upon to be in the Home Guard 50 or more years ago, eh?.

February 2008

Chunky Honeycomb Scarf

Honeycomb_scarf2.jpg

"Reversible scarf for the cold days ahead". This is a very pleasing pattern from October 1963, and is a suggestion for "pre-Christmas plans". The pattern is the same on both sides, so great for a scarf, and can be knitted in basically any wool weight; ensure you use needles a couple of sizes larger than normal for whichever weight you choose, and do a proportional calculation on the gauge, so your scarf is not too wide.

Instructions

Cast on 73 stitches.

First row: K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat this row for the moss stitch border 8 times more.

10th (increase) row: Moss 8, (increase in the next st, moss 6) 8 times; increase in the next st, moss 8. [82 sts]

Change to pattern rows as follows:

1st row: moss 5, p3, *k6, p6; repeat from * to last 14sts; k6, p3, moss 5.
2nd row: moss 5, k3, *p6, k6; repeat from * to last 14sts; p6, k3, moss 5.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

11th row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
12th row: as first.
13th row: as second.
14th row: as first.
Repeat the 13th and 14th rows 4 times more.

23rd row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
24th row: as second.

These 24 rows form the pattern. Continue straight until the work measures 46 ins, ending with a 12th or 24th pattern row.

detail

Next (decrease) row: moss 8 *k2tog; (p1, k1) 3 times; p2tog, repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog; (p1, k1) 4 times. [73sts].

Work 9 rows moss stitch over all stitches.
Cast off.

Finishing - Press work very lighty, taking care not to spoil th texture of the patttern. Cut the remainig wool into 7½ inch lengths; take 3 lengths of wool together each time, fold in half, and, with a crochet hook, knot through short ends to make a fringe. Trim fringe.

Substituting the wool - I used a vintage wool, Phildar Brisants. This is a fine double knitting, which is normally knitted on no. 9 (3¾mm) needles. The cabling make for a tighter tension, and the recommended needles (UK No 6) are 2 sizes larger than usual for a DK. I went with no. 8 needles, instead of 9s, but should have gone larger I think.
My scarf measures less than the 12 inches wide of the original; I knitted to the length I wanted.

If you want to use chunkier wool, then decrease the number of sts proportionally. The pattern is worked over 12sts.

Materials

Original call for 9oz of Patons Moorland Double Knitting

Example shown is knitted in Phildar Brisants.

One pair of No. 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to 20st and 26rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width: 12 inches
Length: 46 inches

A word on the wool.

This pattern is for double knitting wool, and from memory Moorland DK was slightly heavy-weight.
You can knit a scarf in anything you want - obviously - see "Substituting the wool".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Honeycomb_scarf.jpg

December 2007

Sparkling Stole

SparklingStole.jpg

Adapted from an original idea for sleepwear, this has transformed itself into a glamorous stole.
Whether or not it sparkles obviously depends on the type of wool you choose. I used a fabulous Italian yarn, which was a bit brighter once knitted up, than I had imagined from the ball, but has made a lovely item. The original pattern (from the 1970s but probably revamped from a much earlier design) called for 4 ply wool - about 8 ounces - but my version is not only in much lighter weight man-made fibres with a consequent good yardage, but also designed to be shorter than the original.
I think you could feasibly wear this in the evening with a skimpy evening top or as a decorative addition over a plain black roll-neck sweater.
[Note: we noticed that this colourway works particularly well with dark brown].

Instructions

Using No. 6 (5mm) needles cast on 72 stitches, and work 6 rows k1, p1 rib.

Increase row: K5, * m1 (make one st by picking up the loop between the stitches and knitting into the back of it), k4; repeat from * to the last 6sts, m1, k5. [88 sts].

**
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), starting with a purl row.

Right side of work facing, change to No. 3 (6½mm) needles and commence pattern.

Next pattern row: * K1, k1b; repeat from * to end.
[k1b = knit 1 below: insert needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch to be knitted, and knit off both stitches at the same time.]

Work 25 rows in the pattern.
[Editor's note: The pattern consists of this one row repeated on both sides of the work - for 25 rows. On an even number of stitches this produces a fisherman rib like stitch, which looks the same on both sides of the work.]

Change to number 6 (5mm) needles and work 3 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
**

Increase row: K6, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 6sts, m1, k6. [108 sts].

Make a second pattern band by repeating from ** to **.

Increase row: K4, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 4sts, m1, k4. [134 sts].

Make a third pattern band by repeating from ** to **, but omit the final three st st rows, and, on this last segment, continue on the No. 3 needles and knit a further 5 pattern rows.

Cast off very loosely using a large gauge needle.

End panels - Using No. 7 (4½mm) needles, and wrong side of work facing, pick up and knit 56 sts purlwise.

Next row: (right side facing) K6, *k2tog, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6. [34 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K15, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K15 [32 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K14, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K14 [30 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K14, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K14 [28 sts].

Continue to decrease at the centre in this way until 6 sts remain.
Cast off tightly.

Repeat for the other side.

Finishing - Press the stocking-stitch end pieces lighty on the wrong side, using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew in ends, and sew on fastener.
Swan around looking glamorous.

[Editor's notes: The original pattern had 5 segments. If you want to do that, work in the same way, with each pattern band at 25 rows and the following additional increase rows:

Increase row for fourth pattern band: K5, * m1, k5; repeat from * to the last 4sts, m1, k4. [160 sts].
Increase row for fifth pattern band: K3, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 2sts, m1, k2. [192 sts].

..and for the side panels pick up and knit 80 sts instead of 56, and decrease to 50 sts in the first decrease row.]

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g balls of an S. Charles Collezione yarn "Ritratto" - shade 64

One pair each of numbers 3, 6 and 7 (UK size) needles.

Fancy clasp available on the web from TextileGarden, or Purlescence, or Nordic Fiber Arts.

Tension

Approx. 16st and 32rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over pattern using No 3 (6½mm) needles.

Size matters

Width around lower edge: 60 inches
Depth: 15 inches

A word on the wool.

"Ritratto" is a man-made fibre with 28% mohair; knits 22sts to 10cm on No 6 (5mm) needles; 50g ball is 198 yards and I used about 1½ balls for the project.

I think this would work out well using Rowan Kidsilk Haze (or Night or Splash), or in Rowan Damask, which has a slightly shiny silk thread running through the yarn.
Original pattern called for a 4 ply wool weight.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SparklingStole3.jpg

October 2007

Cool-cat cable beret

cable_beret.jpg

Hats are not my thing but I am fond of berets. Here is an irresistible 1970's two-tone design - the original in two glaring shades of gold and yellow. Consider also making it in orange with a strawberry or coffee contrast - I can vouch for this as a popular contemporary combination and you can view it as part of Southwest airlines hostess uniforms from the same period (although the colour of the uniforms is possibly not as striking as the hot pants and knee boots of the period...).
Alternatively just stick with more reserved single colour in traditional white Aran, understated and letting the pattern speak for itself.

Cable Pattern

Row 1: P3, k6, p3.
Row 2: K3, p6, k3.
Rows 3-8: Repeat first and second rows 3 times.
Row 9: P3, c3f, p3. [c3f = cable 3 front by working across 6 sts as follows: slip next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leave at front of work, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3sts from the cable needle].
Row 10: K3, p6, k3.

These 10 rows form the pattern.

Special note: Wind 5 small balls of yarn in each colour. Use a separate ball for each cable and panel, and twist the colours where they meet to avoid gaps in work ("intarsia method").

Instructions

Using No. 10 needles and medium colour (M), cast on 106 stitches, and work 9 rows k1, p1 rib.

[Editor's note: If you work the beret in 2 colours then work over 2 needles as described. If you work in a single colour, you could work this in the round, reversing knit and purl sts on wrong side rows.]

Next row: (p1, p into front and back of next st) twice, * p2, p into front and back of next st, p1, p into front and back of next st; repeat from * to the last 7sts, (p1, p into front and back of next st) 3 times; p into front and back of last st. [150 sts].

Change to No 7 needles.

Next row: (right side) * k22 in M; join in light (L), k2, (k into front and back of next st) 4 time, k2; repeat from * to end. [170 sts].
Next row: (wrong side) * k3, p6, k3, (2nd row of cable pattern) in L; p22 in M; repeat from * to end.

Continue in stocking stitch and cable pattern, until work measures 5½ inches from beginning, finishing with right side facing for the next row.

Shape crown as follows:

Next row: * (k2tog, k7, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [150 sts].
Next row: * pattern 12 in L; P18 in M; repeat from * to end.
Next row: * (k2tog, k5, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [130 sts].
Next row: * pattern 12 in L; P14 in M; repeat from * to end.
Next row: * (k2tog, k3, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [110 sts].
Work 1 row.
Next row: * (k2tog, k1, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [90 sts].
Work 1 row.
Next row: * k3tog, k3tog tbl twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [70 sts].
Break off M.

Next row: K3, * p6, k2, (p2tog) twice, k2; repeat from * to last 11sts; p6, k2, p3tog. [60 sts].
Next row: * p2tog, p1, pattern 6, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to end. [50 sts].
Next row: * p2tog, p6, p2tog; repeat from * to end. [40 sts].
Next row: * k2tog, k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [30 sts].
Next row: Purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [15 sts].

Break off wool leaving end. Thread end through remaining sts and draw up tightly. Fasten off securely.

Making up - Press lighty on the wrong side, using a warm iron and a damp cloth. Join seam, using a fine back stitch. Press seam.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 3oz of medium colour and 1oz light in an Aran weight yarn.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of a heavy vintage DK from Phildar.

One pair each of numbers 10 and 7 needles.

Tension

20st and 25 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

Instructions to fit an "average" head (!).

A word on the wool.

I used Phildar yarns Oxygene (a DK) which knits 23st to 4 inches; and Frénésie (a heavy DK) which knits 19st to 4 inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

1970s and colour

Yet another object of my admiration is Southwest airlines. They don't really have any visibility outside the US, so I was suitably surprised on my first journey with them. (It was the night of October 31st flying to Tucson in 1994, and they sure had some fun with us passengers...). I have also been impressed at their impromptu organisation of party games to try and occupy a hot and fractious plane load of souls during an hours delay at LA. (See the wikipedia entry: "Southwest is known for colourful boarding announcements and crews that burst out in song. The singing is unusual, and is quite popular among customers, but has been noted by some travel critics as being offensive and intrusive." huh - what do they know?!)
They had their 25th anniversary in 1996, and had an exhibition that I must have caught somewhere (perhaps a magazine article) which showed their uniform designs over the years. Sadly I can't find any trace of this on the web now - just these photos:

sw-airlines-1970s.jpg orange200.jpg

August 2007

Yacht Club Chic

YachtingSweater.jpg

Casual sailing sweater, (designed in Italy, apparently), for that 1950s holiday mood. I think this is an outfit for the boathouse, or for the yacht where the chap does all the sailing stuff! I can't say how it would look covered in a life jacket, but it really is a delightful little sweater. The fit (smaller size) is excellent on me (a chubby UK size 12, US size 6), and it looks great despite the rules about short people and horizontal striping.

Instructions

Back and front are mainly knitted alike, but there is some additional detail on the welt at the front.
[Editor's note: So make sure you read the welt instructions for the front before just casting on the same as for the back.... and then have frog it and start again - as I did!].

Back

With No. 12 needles, cast on 112 (120) stitches in navy, and work 2 inches (20 rows) in k1, p1 rib.

**
Change to stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row, and work straight until back measures 5 inches from start, ending with a purl row (30 rows st st).

Join in white and continue in st st stripes as follows:

Row 1: right side facing, knit in white. Do not turn the work, but slip the sts back to other end of the needle.
Row 2: right side facing, knit in navy. Turn the work as normal.
Row 3: wrong side facing, purl in navy. Do not turn the work, but slip the sts back to other end of the needle.
Row 4: wrong side facing, purl in white. Turn the work as normal.
Row 5: right side facing, knit in navy. Turn the work as normal.
Row 6: wrong side facing, purl in navy. Turn the work as normal.

Continue in the striped pattern, and shape the sides by increasing 1 st at each end of the next and every following 6th row, until there are 134 (142) sts.
Meanwhile, when 17 navy stripes have been completed, continue in the striped pattern but use red instead of navy.
When the increasings are complete, continue in red and white until back measures 13 (13) inches down centre from the start.

Shape armholes as follows:
With right side facing, and continuing with red and white striped pattern, cast off 3 (4) sts at the beginning of the next two rows. Then, k2tog at each end of the next and every following 6th row until 122 (128) sts remain.
Work straight in striped sequence until 18 red stripes have been done in all, and ending with a white stripe, (right side facing for the next row).
Change to st st in navy and work straight for 16 rows. With right side facing, shape the armhole outwards, now, by increasing 1st at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 132 (138) sts. Change to number 11 (or the larger) needles and work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Shape shoulder as follows (right side facing):
[Editor's note: At this point for the front, I adapted the front neck to give it some additional shaping. See "Adapting the Front Neck" section]
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 4 sts, turn; rib to the last 4 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 8 sts, turn; rib to the last 8 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 12 sts, turn; rib to the last 12 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 16 sts, turn; rib to the last 16 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 20 sts, turn; rib to the last 20 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 24 sts, turn; rib to the last 24 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 28 sts, turn; rib to the last 28 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 32 sts, turn; rib to the last 32 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 36 sts, turn; rib to the last 36 sts, turn.

Next row: Rib to end, picking up loop where row was turned each time and knitting it together with the the next st to avoid a hole
Next row: Rib back across all sts, picking up loop where row was turned each time and knitting it together with the the next st as before.

Cast off right across very loosely in rib.

Front

With No. 12 needles, cast on 140 (148) stitches in navy, and work 2 inches (20 rows) in k1, p1 rib.
Next row: Rib first 14 (14) sts and slip onto a safety pin; rib to the last 14 (14) sts, turn, slipping the last 14 (14) sts onto another safety pin. Continue on the centre 112 (120) sts.

Work as for back from ** to **.

[Editor's note: I adapted the front neck to give it some additional shaping. See "Adapting the Front Neck" section]

To make up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth. With navy wool and number 12 needles, continue in rib on each of the sets of 14 sts on safety pins until piece measures 5 inches from start. Cast off in rib. Join these ribbed pieces to sides of front.
Now join sides of main work, leaving ribbed pieces free to fold over to back, then sew in position with 2 large pearl buttons, as shown in the photograph. Catch down overlaps to main work along lower edge.
Face armholes on wrong side with bias binding.

[Editor's note: This is to stop the edges of the armholes from curling over, as there is no additional knitted edging.]

Now fold neck edge of front over to back along shoulder edges by ½ inch. Sew two buttons on each shoulder through double thickness to secure shoulders. Press seams.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 4oz of 3ply in light navy and 1 oz each in lipstick red and white.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of navy 4ply cotton and 1 ball each of red and white.

One pair of No 12 double pointed needles (or a circular needle) and one pair No 11 needles.

8 large pearl buttons and bias binding.

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 12 (2½ mm) needles, using the 4 ply wool. (original pattern calls for No 11 needles and 3ply).

Size matters

Instructions for two slim fitting sizes: 34-35 (36-37) inch bust; length from top of shoulders 20½ (20½) inches.

A word on the wool.

For the navy and white I used a vintage Hayfield soft cotton 4ply, and for the red I used Jaeger Sienna (also a pure cotton 4ply). I used 11 and 12 needles which are a size smaller needles than stated in the original pattern, and with these I managed to achieve the required tension.
[Editor's note: I only just had enough wool for this project (smaller size): 3 balls of Navy at 165.5m (181yds), and one of Sienna at 140m (153 yards). It was a VERY close run thing; I had only inches left.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Adapting the front neck

The original pattern is a slash neck, the same at the back as the front. I adapted the front neck to lower it slightly and add shaping. [Editor's note: This adaptation used slightly less wool that the slash neck version where I had only inches left, knitting the smaller size. Adapting the neckline left me with just enough to sew up!]

FrontNeck.jpg

Replace the shoulder shaping section for the front as follows:

Shape shoulder (front adaptation) as follows (right side facing):
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 4 sts, turn; rib to the last 4 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 8 sts, turn; rib to the last 8 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 12 sts, turn; rib to the last 12 sts, turn.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: Rib 40(42) sts; turn and leaving the rest of the sts on a spare needle. Complete each side of the neck separately.
Next row: K2tog; rib to the last 16 sts, turn.
Next row: Rib to the last 2sts; k2tog; turn.
Next row: K2tog; rib to the last 20sts, turn.
Next row: Rib to the last 2sts; k2tog; turn.
Next row: K2tog; rib to the last 24sts, turn.

Continue thus, turning 4 stitches short of the shoulder edge each time as for the back, and decreasing at neck edge on every row, until you complete the row:
Next row: Rib to the last 36 sts, turn. Then:
Next row: Rib to the last 2sts; k2tog; break wool.

Rejoin the wool to the sts on the spare needle at centre neck. Rib across all sts on spare needle to the last 16 sts, turn.
Next row: Rib 38(40) sts, k2tog; turn, and complete this side of the neck separately, leaving the centre 28 (30) sts on a spare needle.
Next row: K2tog; rib to the last 20sts, turn.
Next row: Rib to the last 2sts; k2tog; turn.
Next row: K2tog; rib to the last 24sts, turn.

Continue thus, turning 4 stitches short of the shoulder edge each time as for the back, and decreasing at neck edge on every row, until you complete the row:
Next row: Rib to the last 36 sts, turn. Then:

Next row: (wrong side facing) rib across right shoulder to the last 2sts; k2tog; do not break wool.

Pick up and rib all sts across the neck: pick up the approximately 12 sts** down right side of neck, rib across centre 28 (30) sts, pick up approximately 12 sts** up left hand side of neck; then rib across all sts of right shoulder, picking up loop where row was turned each time and knitting it together with the the next st to avoid a hole.
[**Editor's note: make sure you pick up the right number of sts down sides of neck to ensure continuity if the k1 p1 rib - that is and even or an odd number.]
Next row: Rib back across all sts, picking up loop where row was turned each time and knitting it together with the the next st as before, across the right shoulder..

Cast off right across very loosely in rib.

Adapting the size

I have not tried this myself, but it seems to me that it would be moderately easy to adapt the size by simply adding stitches. To adjust the length, make additional stripes in the navy and the red striped sections evenly, both above and below the armhole decreasing, as required. To gauge how much to increase, you can use a sleeveless top that fits you well and measure the overall length, as well as the length of the armhole.

July 2007

Happi robe

happi_robe.jpg

A fun coverall that can be worn as a dressing robe or on the beach. This is a 1970s take on the Japanese design for happi coats, which originated as Japanese over coats traditionally worn by shop keepers. The family crest, shop name or emblem was printed on the back of the coat. Today, happi coats are still used by some shop keepers in Japan, but are also widely used elsewhere for festivals, parties and so on.

I realised while writing these instructions that they are not really for the novice seamstress. You will understand them better if you have used a paper pattern before. Having said that, this is a very simple shape; there is no real tailoring and if you are not a perfectionist, you can obtain a very pleasing result without much skill. If you are a perfectionist, then I expect you will make a high quality item in spite of my sketchy instructions....

Instructions

Using the dressmakers paper, make a paper pattern from the graphs (Figs 1 and 2) and, using fabric scraps, or fat quarters, cut patches at least approximately 4 inches by 4 inches, according to the patch shapes you have chosen. Lay the patchwork pieces out on a table until there are enough to make a Back, two Fronts, two Sleeves and two Pockets. Remember to evenly distribute the colours so you don't run out of one particular fabric.

Join the patches together by hand or (preferably) machine. Make the area of fabric required for each pattern piece.
[Editor's note: This pattern allows for half inch seams throughout.]

For the sleeves, make two pieces of patchwork, each 22 inches by 15½ inches. For the back make one piece, 35½ inches by 26 inches, and, for the fronts, two pieces, each 36 inches by 12½ inches. For the pockets make two pieces, each 9 inches by 8½ inches. Pin the pattern pieces to the patchwork, and cut: one back on the fold; two sleeves; two fronts (remember these must be a left and right mirror image of each other); and two pockets. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the lining fabric and cut out the same pieces.
[Editor's note: Patchwork is better lined unless it is something small like a toy.]

Pockets: Place the pocket linings against right sides of pockets, and machine stitch around 3 sides, leaving the top open. Turn the pockets and press, (3 edges are enclosed in the lining). Cut two pocket facings from the facing fabric, each 9 inches by 4 inches. Turn in the short edges of the facings so that they are the same width as the pockets. Place one longer (raw) facing edge to the top raw edge of the pocket and sew in place. Turn facing to inside, tuck raw edge under and stitch. Repeat with the other pocket. Pin pockets to robe fronts in positions indicated on the graph, and top stitch in place.

Sewing up: Tack the patchwork fronts to the lining fronts, wrong sides together. Tack and machine stitch the patchwork layer of the back only to the fronts along the shoulder seams and down the side seams, working on the wrong side. Machine the back lining to the shoulder seams, enclosing all the raw edges, and hem down the side seams. Sew the patchwork sleeve seams, with the raw edges on the wrong side, as usual, and then with right side to right side, ease the sleeves into the armholes; pin, tack and sew. Sew sleeve lining seams, wrong side to wrong side, and hem into place. Tack lining to patchwork all around the edges of the garment.

Facings: From the facing fabric, cut one belt 78 inches by 5 inches, two belt slots, each 3 inches by 2½ inches, two front facings each 39 by 4 inches, one hem 52 inches by 5 inches, and two cuffs, each 21 inches by 5 inches.
[Editor's note: For the facings, I cut binding strips 1½in wide on the straight grain of the fabric except for the neck edge as this is curved; here, I cut a strip on the bias and applied it separately, all around the back neck and extending just beyond the shoulder seam. If you don't feel up to making your own binding then you can purchase ready-made bias binding.]
Pin, tack and sew the edge of the facings to the edges of the coat. Turn facings to wrong side, fold under raw edges and hand sew to finish. Finish off cuffs in the same way.
Make up the belt by folding the piece in half lengthwise, and seam along one edge, leaving one end open. Turn the belt so the the seams are on the inside, and press the belt flat. Finish the open end by turning the raw edges inside, and slip stitch in place.
Make up the belt slots and stitch into place at the waist. Pull the belt through the belt slots.

Materials

2½m (112cm width) plain lining fabric.

Fabric scraps, or about 10 fat quarters quilt fabric (usually 112cm or 44 inches wide).

2m cotton fabric for facings (or bias binding).

Dressmaker's squared paper - 1 inch grid (I found only in centimetre grids on the web - 2ins=5cm)

Size matters

One size fits all. However for my version, I altered the pattern below to make it slightly smaller (to fit me); however, as a wrap, it can be worn over-size.

A word on the design

I used floral hexagons for my robe. The original was shown with rectangular patches. See "adaptations".

Adaptations

You can make the robe by cutting the basic design from a plain fabric, which you can use as a conventional lining, or you can apply your patches directly to the lining as a backing, depending on how free form you want to be with your patchwork. You can use any patchwork techniques; I have used a conventional shape, but applied the patches directly on to the backing, overlapping them like roof tiles, and top stitching in place. This method allowed for minor inaccuracies in sizing the patches. I chose the shape of the patch to suit my floral fabric.

happi3.jpg The original robe was a rather pleasing design made of uneven rectangles in geometric and spotted fabrics in 1970s oranges, yellows, and browns. However, I was seduced by the lovely red poppy fabrics in my local quilt shop in Dorking (The Quilt Room) - in consequence I chose a hexagonal shape which I thought better suited the floral effect. I like the effect but also feel that it is a little reminiscent of a table cloth.

scales.jpg I would like to experiment with the fish-scale (or clam-shell) patch in beautiful pale blues and sea-greens to make a bath robe. There are some lovely "watery" batik fabrics available in packs. You could even introduce silvers, and gauzy effects. The fish-scale design can be used as patches, or as a quilting pattern, and is well-suited to the overlapping appliqué method (to better emulate scales).

Whatever you choose, remember to use big patches, otherwise it will be a 20 year project. You could even cheat and choose a fabric with a patchwork pattern, or indeed just decide to use some fabric that pleases you with no patchwork at all!

I wanted to keep the robe as light weight as possible, but you could put in an interlining and then quilt, for a heavier weight padded robe.

Figure 1
happi1.jpg

Figure 2
happi2.jpg

June 2007

Cocktail top

Cocktail_top.jpg

A pretty, low-cut, jewelled cocktail jumper for evenings, dating from 1957. Originally knitted in Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply, this version uses a fine vintage Phildar yarn in sunshine yellow. The original colour suggestion was pale pink, with black embroidery, (which I omitted altogether for my version to avoid looking like a bee as much as possible). I think it would be very pretty in pink.
My pose above is in imitation of the orginal model, which is in itself quite a challenge despite the air-brushing techniques available for digital photographs....

Lace Pattern

Row 1: (right side) k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1.
Row 2: k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts: p3, k1.
Row 3: k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k2tog, wfwd, k2.
Row 4: k1, purl to the last st, k1.
Row 5: k2, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts: wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2.
Row 6: k1, p2, [k1, p1] into made loops, * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * to last 3sts: p2, k1.
Row 7: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, wfwd, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Row 8: k1, purl to the last st, k1.

Instructions

Back and front alike.

With No. 13 needles, cast on 114 (126) stitches, and work 4 inches in k1, p1 rib.
With right side facing, change to No. 11 needles, and commence working in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row. Increase at each end of the 11th and every following 6th row, until there are 132 (144) sts. Then increase at each end of the following 4th row: 134 (146) sts. Next row: purl.

[Editor's note: I worked both sides together in the round, (so every round knit) up to the start of the armhole pattern, when I split the work, and continued each side separately. Mark the sides with st markers to aid placement of the increases.]

Introduce lace pattern at the centre:
Next row: k60 (66), pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern, k60 (66).
Next row: p60 (66), pattern 14sts as 2nd row of lace pattern, p60 (66).
Continue in lace pattern and stocking stitch thus for a further 6 rows, increasing 1 st at each end of the next and following 4th row, [138 (150) sts].

Next row: Inc in 1st st, k55 (61), pattern 26sts as 1st row of lace pattern, k55 (61), Inc in last st.
Work a further 7 rows in lace pattern and stocking stitch thus, increasing 1 st at each end of every alternate row, [146 (158) sts].

Introduce lace pattern at sleeve edges:
[Editor's note: If you are working in the round, then you need to split the work at this point and continue each side separately.]

Next row: pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern; k40 (46); pattern 38sts as 1st row of lace pattern; k40 (46); pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern.
Work a further 7 rows in lace pattern and stocking stitch.

Divide for neck as follows:

Row 1: pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern; k34 (40); k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more, k1, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining sts on a spare needle.
Row 2: k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * twice more, p3, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 3: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 2 sts: k2tog.
Row 4: k1, p21, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 5: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k2, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * twice more: k1.
Row 6: k1, * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * twice more: p2, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 7: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, wfwd, k1; repeat from * once more: k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k1.
Row 8: k1, p19, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 9: pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern, k28 (34); k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more, k1, k2tog, wfwd, k2tog.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1st at neck edge on every alternate row, and at the same time, taking an extra 6 sts into lace pattern at neck edge on every following 1st pattern row until 49 (51) sts remain, ending with right side facing for next row. At this point 9 (10) complete patterns have been done from the start of the lace pattern.

Now work over all stitches in pattern, still decreasing 1 st at neck edge on next and following 3 alternate rows. [45 (47) sts]
Next row: in pattern.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the armhole here, kntting one further 8-row pattern to make the armhole measure 7 inches over my tension on the smaller size (actually I think I should have knitted the larger size); I did not decrease at the neck edge on these additional rows. Lengthening the armhole is fine but remember you are also lowering the V neck when you add rows here, and if you do it too much you may end up turning "pretty low-cut style for evenings" into something far more racy!.]

Shape shoulder as follows (right side facing):

Next row: Cast off 12 (14) sts, pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: in pattern.
Next row: Cast off 6 sts, pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Now, keeping the neck edge straight, continue to shape the shoulder by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. Fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin the wool to the remaining sts and work the other side of the neck as follows:

Row 1: k2tog, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more; k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1; k34 (40); pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern.
Row 2: pattern 14sts, p34 (40); k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts: p1, k1.
Row 3: k2tog, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * twice more; k2tog, wfwd, k2; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 4: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p21, k1.
Row 5: k2tog, k3, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * once more; wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 6: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p2, [k1, p1] into made loops; * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * once more: p4, k1.
Row 7: k2tog, k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog,wfwd, k1; repeat from * once more; k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 8: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p19, k1.
Row 9: k2tog, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, k28 (34), pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern.

Finish to correspond with the other side of the neck.

Making up - Press stocking stitch parts only on the wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder and side seams. Press seams.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, work a row of double crochet (US single crochet) all round neck and sleeve edges.

Embroidery - Using 2 strands of stranded cotton, embroider 4 petal loop stitch flowers in centre of diamonds round neck edge and sleeves, as shown in the photograph, then add a jewel or sequin to the centre of each flower.
[Editor's note: I omitted the embroidery and used 28 (a whole packet) of Gutermann beads distributed around the neck at the front.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 5oz of 3-ply.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of vintage 3ply.
See "substituting the wool"

One pair each of numbers 13 and 11 needles. Number 12 crochet hook.

Jewels (5mm) or sequins and stranded cotton for embroidery.

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

Instructions for two slim fitting sizes: 33-35 (36-38) inch bust; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19¼) inches.

A word on the wool.

I used an old Phildar yarn (Loisirs) which knits 30st to 4inches; Phildar Luxe is a quality fine yarn in a fair range of colours - but both these yarns are mixed fibres with only 15% wool.
See "substituting the wool"

Disclaimer

(well...almost a disclaimer...)
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this lace pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Substituting the wool
The recommended yarn is a 3-ply. Knitting these old patterns makes you think "gosh - I'd forgotten how fine 3-ply was" and "gosh - how small and dainty people were in the 1950s".

In addition to the issues with size and tension, 3-ply is a very fine (fingering) yarn which is now really restricted to baby wools, assuming you can find it at all. The baby ranges usually offer it in white only, and tend to be "easy care" - or as we know it: synthetic. I have not done exhaustive research, but there does not seem to be any of the standard bread-and-butter brands in this wool weight. I imagine that some of the heavier crochet cottons may knit up to these kinds of tensions, but the texture of the knitting may be a little stiff.
You can aquire some vintage 3-plys on eBay (for example, Jaeger 3ply Botany, or even Patons Nylox, which is 80% wool and not entirely restricted to mens sock colours). I notice also there are very fine yarns available in cones intended for use with knitting machines, but often content and weights are not clearly defined.

The good news is there has been quite an opening up of the 4-ply wool weights* which I think is due to the popularity of sock knitting now. There are some lovely colour ranges, and Rowan, for example, offer several 4-ply ranges including suitable cottons. This top has turned out to be very pretty, and I would have much preferred it in a cotton or soft woollen yarn.

Knitting in 4-ply will help you with producing a bigger size but check your tension carefully, experiment with smaller needles, and do your arithmetic. Changing from 8st per inch to 7st per inch makes a small 35 inch bust leap to 40. This style is meant to be tight, and don't necessarily be put off if you have an ample figure - as long as it goes in and out in the right proportion!
If you want to change the number of stitches to alter the size then you need to add or subtract 12 at a time. You can alter the length up to the arm easily enough, and also lengthen the armhole by simply knitting more of the lace pattern before you start shaping the shoulder, (as I did).

*The "quickerknit", or fine double knitting yarns, seem to be offered in many more ranges now as well ; at one time this too was relegated to the baby wool shelves only, and it is one of my favourite weights to knit with.

May 2007

Cobweb Fichu

fichu.jpg

Pattern from 1955 described as a "lacy head scarf for evening wear". This is a charming fichu, for evening, or indeed day wear, depending on your choice of yarn type.

I don't know about you, but I try not to wear head scarves in the evening; in fact I try not to wear them ever. I took against them in the 1970s - something to do with the image of the Royal Family - o, and they make me look like an extra from an Edinburgh Fringe production of Mother Courage.
Hopefully, however, this one will make us all look like Grace Kelly.

Instructions

Begin at the widest part. With No. 11 (the larger) hook make 260 chain, very loosely.

Row 1: Miss 1ch, * 1dc in next ch, 7ch, miss 5ch; repeat from * to last chain; 1dc in last ch; turn.
Row 2: 4slip sts in next 4ch, * 7ch, 1dc in centre of next 7ch loop; repeat from* to end, turn.

Continue, repeating 2nd row, thus decreasing one trellis pattern on every row, until only one trellis pattern remains to be worked in the centre.
Fasten off.

flower.jpg Flower border - With No. 12 (the smaller) hook make 12 chain, and join in a ring with a slip st.

First round: 3ch. (this counts as one dbl tr), work 26 dbl trs through centre of ring, and join to top of he 3ch with a slip st.
Second round: * 16ch, 1ss into 10th ch from hook, 6ch, miss 2 dbl trs, 1 ss into next dbl tr. Repeat from * to end. Fasten off.
[Editor's note: Don't forget this is a UK crochet pattern, and these are UK dbl trs; if in doubt, link to "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Make 14 more in the same way.

Making up - Press lighty on the wrong side under a damp cloth.

Make a long strip of flowers by joining (sewing) the tip of one petal of one flower to the adjoining tip of petal of another flower.

Join this strip to sloping sides of main part - seven petals along each side, and one at the top of the triangle; catch the tips of two petals of each flower to the main work to secure the border.

Give a final press, pinning out the flower points.

[Editor's note: I experimented, adding a pearlised bead suspended in the centre of each of the flowers; it looks very pretty and follows the current fashion for applied beading - however the "nude" versions retain a certain delicacy without further adornment.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for a ½oz ball of "Fine Ply".

Example in hand-painted cobweb lace wool (100m skeins about 9g) purchased from Alchemy Fibre Arts eBay shop.

Numbers 11 (3mm) and 12 (2.5mm) crochet hooks.

Tension

One trellis pattern measures ¾in on no. 11 hook.

Size

Approximately 36 inches at the widest part.

A word on the wool.

There were quite a few patterns for very fine scarves and shawls in cobweb wools, and as their name suggests they are very fine gauge.
You could knit this in other yarn weights - for example, Rowan Kidsilk Haze - and simply produce a fichu of a different (larger) size.

Now you have the taste for chic yet casual evening wear in adaptable crochet, I expect you'll want to embark on a larger project (such as the one below) to extend your skills. Let me know if you need the pattern.

retro_outfit.gif

March 2007

Big Sister’s evening cape

capelet.jpg

A true gem of a pattern described as an "angora tippet" from the early 1950s. Originally knitted in Patons Beryl Angora 4ply wool, this version uses a mixed fibre mohair yarn which knits to a 4ply tension.

Instructions

With No. 8 needles, cast on 338 stitches loosely, and work 4 rows stocking stitch starting with a knit row.

**Next (eyelet) row: K2 *wool forward, K2tog.; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2.
Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.**

Make hem - on next row by knitting 1st from the needle together with 1st from the cast-on edge. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Repeat sections from ** to ** once more.
Make another hem on the next row, but this time instead of knitting the sts together with the cast on row, you pick up and knit into a previous row as follows:- taking a spare double pointed (or circular) needle, pick up 338 sts along back of work, 4 rows below the row of eyelet holes; now knit 1st from the needle together with 1st from the spare needle.
[Editor's note: this can be tough as the picked up sts are very tight. I used one double pointed needle and picked up the 338 sts in sections as I went along the row].

Next row: wrong side facing, K4, * P30, K30; repeat from * to last 34 sts; P30, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat these 2 rows 6 times more and then the 1st row again.
[Editor's note: If you need to lengthen the cape, here would be the time to consider it].

Start shaping
Next row: right side facing, K4, (K2tog, K13) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P28, K28) 5 times, P28, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (316 sts).

Next row: K4, (K2tog, K12) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P26, K26) 5 times, P26, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (294 sts).

Next row: K4, (K2tog, K11) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P24, K24) 5 times, P24, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (272 sts).

Continue in this way, decreasing 22 sts on next and every following 6th row, (remembering you will be working 1st fewer after the K2tog on each decrease row) until 96 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you need to lengthen the cape, consider it again throughout these decreases; instead of decreasing every 6th row you could decrease on the 8th row a couple of times - adding 4 exra rows - or as many times as you need.].
Change to No. 11 (smaller) needles and work 8 rows in pattern;
[Editor's note: another chance to lengthen the cape if you have a swan-like neck!].
break wool and leave sts on a spare needle.

Neckband
With No. 11 needles, cast on 96 stitches, and work 4 rows stocking stitch starting with a knit row.
**Next (eyelet) row: K2 *wool forward, K2tog.; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2. Work 5 rows straight in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.**
Make a hem on the next row, exactly as given for the first hem on the lower edge.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Repeat sections from ** to ** once more.
Now make a second hem on the next row, exactly as given for the second hem round the lower edge.
Next row: wrong side facing, K4, (P8, K8) 5 times; P8, K4.
Next row: knit.

Join neckband and main body

Place the needle with the neck sts and the spare needle with the body sts together, with right sides (facing each other) together, and cast off the two sets of stitches together.
[Editor's note: to cast off together, you knit together 1 st from one needle, and one from the other, and pass the knitted sts on the RH needle over each other as usual for casting off].

Making up
Press the cape only very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
[Editor's note: you don't want to flatten out the pattern sts or the wool texture].
Work a row of double crochet (that is, US single crochet) up both front edges, then a row of slip sts, taking care to leave the picot hems free.
Sew on hook and eye below the hems at the neck edge on the wrong side of the work. Sew on two decorative buttons at the neck edge, as seen in the photograph.

capelet.jpg


The detail shows the mixture of stocking stitch and garter stitch gored panels, which gives the shoulder cape such a perfect drape. The hem is formed by a double folded picot edging, which is reproduced at the neck.


Materials

Original pattern calls for 2 oz angora wool.
This equates to just over 50g.

One pair each of number 8 and number 11 needles.
One crochet hook, number 13.

Two decorative gold buttons, and hook and eye for fastening at the neck.

Tension

28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size fits all! However - I did lengthen the cape by about one inch overall, as I found that although the tension was as stated in sts per inch, the length seemed shorter than depicted.

A word on the wool

I used a vintage wool from Pingouin called Volutes (80% acrylic 20% mohair), which I chose from my stash mainly for its rich colour. It knits to a tension of 23sts x 34rows on No. 11-12 (3-2½mm) needles, thus I knitted the cape on smaller needles than the pattern stated to achieve the right tension. I think the cape really needs to be knitted in a true luxury yarn, such as angora, or cashmere. Rowan's Kidsilk Haze could be suitable but the smallest tension on No. 10 needles is quoted as 25sts to 4in.

capelet_original.jpg

January 2007

Boudoir Bedjacket.

bedjacket.jpg

Knitted in a combination of wools, ribbon, and a linen yarn, of various weights using the basic shape of a double knitting pattern. The length is short to allow for sitting in bed.

Instructions

Knitted to a basic shape as follows:

Back - cast on 88 sts. Knit in your own pattern for 7 or 8 inches.
Cast off 10 stitches at each side for the armhole.
Knit until armhole measures 8 inches.
Cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Cast off remaining sts.

Right front - cast on 36 sts. Knit to pattern increasing 1st at the beginning of every alternate row until there are 44 sts. (This forms a curved front edge).
Continue to knit for 7 or 8 inches to match the back ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 sts at the beginning of the next wrong side row.
Knit until armhole measures 6 inches, (about 12 rows fewer than the back), ending with right side facing. Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of next row (the neck edge); then decrease 1 st at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 23 sts remain, ending at the armhole edge.
With wrong side facing, cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work one row and then cast off remaining sts.

Left front - work to match the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves - cast on 56 sts and work for 2 inches, then increase 1 st at each end of next and every following 6th row to 76 sts. Work straight to 15 inches from beginning. Cast off.

Crochet border - a simple row of double crochet and then a crochet shell pattern (1 dc; miss 2; 5 tr into next stitch; miss 2; then repeat).

Make up - sew shoulders and side seams. Set sleeves into the armholes, placing 2 ins at the sleeve top to the cast off sts at the underarm, and sewing up the sleeve seams.
Crochet a border all around front edges and cuffs.
Attach a cord or ribbon to the neck edge to tie.

Materials

Self-styled free form pattern, knitting a mixture of rows in plain and purl, using wools from 4ply through to a chunky boucle and including ribbon yarn.

Tie made from twisted cord or ribbon.

Size matters

Tension (average over different yarn weights):
22st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 8 (4mm) needles.
The instructions knit up to approximately a 32/34inch chest.

Close up of the pattern detail:

pattern detail.jpg


© Christina Coutts 2007

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