Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets. If there is only one set of figures, it applies to both sizes.

Three separate panel pattern stitches are described below, and the overall instructions tell you about the shape and construction, and how you combine the panels together to make up the back, front, and sleeves.

Pattern 1: basic half fisherman's rib

[Editor's note: Whether or not you are familiar with fisherman's rib or brioche, it should be quite easy to pick up this half fisherman's rib from the instructions below.
However, you always have to be careful when increasing and decreasing, in that the stitch and the yarn-over that you purl together on the right side rows, always count as only one stitch.]

Worked over an odd number of stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1st Row (right side): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd Row (wrong side): * slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn over needle, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn over
needle.
3rd Row (right side): knit the first stitch together with the yarn over needle; * p1, knit next stitch together with yarn over needle, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows to form the pattern.

Patter 2: basic cable pattern

Worked over 9 stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1st Row (right side): p2, k5, p2,
2nd Row: k2, p5, k2.
3rd Row: p2; cross 5 stitches to the right by slipping 3 stitches on to the cable needle and leaving at the back of the work, k2, then k3 stitches from cable needle - or alternatively cross 5 stitches to the
left by slipping 2 stitches on to the cable needle and leaving at the front of the work, k3, then k2 stitches from cable needle; p2.
[Editor's Note: The cables cross the the right on one side of the sweater and to the left on the other.]
4th Row: as 2nd row.
5th Row: as 1st row.
6th Row: as 2nd row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Pattern 3: cables with half fisherman's rib pattern

Worked over 27 stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.
Stagger the pattern at the right side to the right, and at left side to the
left, (mirror images).

Rows 1-12: 9 stitches as per the cable pattern , 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib, 9 stitches as per the the cable.
Rows 13-16 (right half): 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib, then 9 stitches for the cable - or -
Rows 13-16 (left half): 9 stitches for the cable, then and 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib.
Rows 17-51: stagger the cable pattern on every alternate row by 1 stitch to the right or to the left as follows:

To the right: Purl the first purl stitch of the cable together with preceding stitch of the half fisherman's rib, and after the 5 knit stitches of the cable, increase 1 stitch purlwise, inserting the right-hand needle into the loop at the front of next stitch, p1, then work the last purl stitch of the cable in half fisherman's rib (starting with 1 purl stitch of the half fisherman's rib).
To the left: work the first purl stitch of the cable as a half fisherman's rib stitch, (starting with 1 purl stitch of the half fisherman's rib), p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, by inserting right-hand needle into the loop at the front of the next stitch. Purl the last stitch of the cable together with next stitch of the half fisherman's rib.

Rows 53 and 54 (right half): work 9 stitches for the cable, then 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib - or -
Rows 53 and 54 (left half): work 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib, then 9 stitches for the cable.

These 54 rows form pattern.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 100 (108) stitches and work 3¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 21 stitches evenly across the last row. [121 (129) sts]

Change to No 7 (4½ mm) needles and continue as follows for the foundation row:
Foundation row: K1 edge stitch, work 7 (11) stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 2), work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 27 stitches in pattern 3; then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 9 stitches for the cable, then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib (these 3 are the centre stitches) -
[Editor's Note: Now work the other half as a mirror image as below:]
- work 9 stitches for the cable; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 27 stitches in pattern 3; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 9 stitches for the cable, and finally 7 (11) stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); k1 edge stitch.

Cross straight cables and diagonal cables (pattern 3) on the right side to the right and on the left side to the left.
When work measures 15 inches, shape armholes: cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
[109 (117) sts]

Keeping in line with the patterns, continue straight until work measures 26 inches, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape neck:
Next row: work 40 (44) stitches in pattern.
Turn, and leaving the remaining stitches on a holder.
Complete this side first.

At the neck edge cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 alternate rows.
At the same time, shape shoulder: by casting off 12 (13) stitches at the armhole edge on every alternate row twice, then 12 (14) stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip first 29 stitches on to holder for centre back neck, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and work pattern to end.
Complete to match the first side, reversing shaping.

Front:

Proceed as for back until work measures 24 inches ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Shape neck:
Next row: work 45 (49) stitches in pattern.
Turn, and leaving the remaining stitches on a holder.
Complete this side first.

At the neck edge on every alternate row, cast off 3 stitches once, 2 stitches once, and 1 stitch 4 times.

When work measures 26 inches, shape shoulder, by casting off 12 (13) stitches at the armhole edge on every alternate row twice, then 12 (14) stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip first 19 stitches on to a holder for the centre front neck.
Rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and work in pattern to end.

Complete to match first side, reversing shaping.

Sleeves (both alike):

Cast on 45 stitches.
Work work 3¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 20 stitches evenly across the last row. [65 sts]

Continue in basic patterns as follows:

Foundation row: K1 edge stitch, work 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 3 - stagger this cable to the right), work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 2), then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib (these 3 are the centre stitches) -
[Editor's Note: Now work the other half as a mirror image as below:]
- work 9 stitches for the cable; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 9 stitches (pattern 3 - stagger this cable to the left); 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); k1 edge stitch.

Stagger cables at right side to the right, at left side to the left.

At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each of every 5th row 18 times, then 1 stitch on every 4th row 6 times [113 sts]

At first, increase the pattern 3 section to the sides, then work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib, 9 stitches for the cable, then remaining stitches in half fisherman's rib.
[Editor's Note: This is to give you sufficient stitches to continue to stagger the cables.]
When work measures 21 inches shape top, by casting off 4 stitches at each end of every alternate row 4 times.
Cast off remaining stitches

To make up:

Join all seams and sew sleeves in position.
Using the circular needle, pick up and knit about 100 stitches around the neck, and work 5 inches in rib pattern.
Fold band in half to the wrong side and sew in position.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:

8 (9) x 50g balls at 100m per ball
[Editor's Note: This is a fairly long yardage for this yarn weight.]

One pair each of Nos 11 (3mm) and 7 (4½mm) needles.
One 3mm x 40cm circular needle.

Tension

19sts x 24 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

20sts x 26 rows worked over pattern stitches on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

40-42 / 44-46 inches
[Actual size about
47 / 50 inches]

Abbreviations:

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together
p2tog: decrease by purling 2 stitches together

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a thickish but lofty tweed Aran weight yarn: 50% wool mix with acrylic and 15% flax. Approximately 100m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Back

Using 3 mm needles and white yarn, cast on 99 (105, 111) stitches and work in rib:
1st row (right side): p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 8½ (8¾, 9) inches [21 (22, 23) cm] from beginning, ending with a row 1 of rib pattern.

Next row (increase): Rib 4 (8, 10); [increase in the next stitch, rib 8 (10, 14)] 10 (8, 6) times; increase in the next stitch, rib 4 (8, 10).
[1110 (114, 118) sts]

Change to 4½ mm needles and blue colour yarn.
Working in stocking stitch (1 row plain, one row purl), beginning with a knit row, work 26 (28, 30) rows in blue, then work the striped pattern of * 26 rows white, 26 rows blue *.
Repeat from to * to * once, then work another 26 rows in white.
Now continue in blue until work measures 35 (36, 36½) inches, [89 (91, 93) cm ] from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
5th row: Cast off 8, knit until there are 11 (12, 13) stitches on the right needle, and leave these for the right back; cast off the next 40 (42, 44) stitches, knit to end.
Continue on these last 19 (20, 21) stitches which now remain at the end of the needle for left back.
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row and 3 stitches at neck edge on the following row.
Cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches to complete shoulder slope.

Rejoin the blue yarn to the neck edge of the right back stitches, and cast off 3; purl to end.
Cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches.

Front

Work as for back until 12 rows fewer have been worked than on back to beginning of shoulder shaping, thus ending with a purl row.

Next row: knit 46 (47, 48) and leave these stitches on a spare needle for the left front. Cast off the next 18 (20, 22) stitches, knit to end.

Continue working the right front on the 46 (47, 48) stitches now remaining on the needle and work 1 row.
** Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row; 2 stitches at the same edge on the next 4 alternate rows; and 1 stitch on next alternate
row.

Continue to decrease at the neck edge on next 2 alternate rows, but,
at the same time, cast off for the shoulder 8 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row then cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches.

Rejoin yarn to the neck edge of the left front stitches, and complete as for right front from to ** to end.

Sleeves

Using 4½ mm needles and white cast on 68 (72, 76) stitches, and begin working in stocking stitch (no rib welt).
Work 26 (28, 30) rows in white, and then 26 (28, 30) rows in blue.

Change to white and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row, 25 times, at same time continuing in the striped sequence of 26 rows white, 26 rows blue, and 26 rows white.
Cast off these 118 (122, 126) rows stitches.

Making up and neck border

Join the right shoulder seam.

Neck border:
With right side of work facing and using 3 mm needles and blue yarn, pick up and knit 60 (62, 64) stitches around front neck edge and 49
(51, 53) stitches across the back neck. [109 (113, 117) sts]
Beginning with a 2nd row, work in rib for 5 rows, then cast off loosely in rib.

Join the left shoulder seam and ends of neck border.
Pin cast-off edge of sleeves to sides of sweater placing the centre of the sleeve level with the shoulder seam and ensuring that the sides of the sleeves reach to the same position of the pattern at each side.
Sew in place and then join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes. Fold up the first stripe on the sleeve to the wrong side forming a deep hem and slip-stitch in place.

[Editor's note: You can see in the photo that the sleeve is worn rolled up to the right side, forming a cuff.]

Materials

DK equivalent cotton yarn, 50g balls:
9 (10, 11) in white
6 (7, 8) in navy blue

One pair each of No 11 (3mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 26 rows to 4 inches on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches;
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k: knit
p: purl
increase: knit twice into next stitch.
decrease: knit two stitches together.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a 100% cotton with a tension on the ball band indicating a light weight double knitting yarn. For this pattern it's more loosely knitted on 4½mm needles, giving more of an aran or worsted weight tension.
The quoted yardage was 100 meters, (110 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Three sizes - instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to all sizes.

Lace Pattern

1st row: (p1, kb2) twice, p1, * k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wrn, p1, wb, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, (wf, k1) twice , k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb2) 5 times, p1; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb2) twice, p1.
2nd row: (k1, pb2) twice, k1, * p5, k1,p1,k1,p3,k1, p4 *, p20; repeat from * to *,(k1, pb2) 5 times, k1; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, (k1, pb2) twice, k1.
3rd row: Rib 7 as before, k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, wb, slip1, k2tog, psso, wf, k3, wf, k1 *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16 as before; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7 as before.
4th row:: Rib 7, p7, k1, p2, k1, p4 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
5th row: Rib 7, * (k1, wf) twice, slip1, k1, psso, p1, (k2tog) twice, wf, k5, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
6th row: Rib 7, * p8, k1, p1, k1, p5 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
7th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k3, wf, slip1, k2tog, psso, p1, won, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1 *, k1, (wf. k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
8th row: Rib 7 *, p4, k1, p. 3, k1, p7 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
9th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k5, wf, slip1, k1, psso, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
10th row: Rib 7, * p4, k1, p2, k1, p8 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
11th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wrn, p1, wb, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, (wf, k1) twice *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from to , k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
12th row: As 2nd row.
13th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, wb, slip1, k2tog, psso, wf, k3, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog. wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
14th row: As 4th row.
15th row: Rib 7, (k1, wf) twice, slip1, k1, psso, p1, (k2tog) twice, wf, k5, wf, k1 *, k1. (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
16th row: As 6th row.
17th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k3, wf, slip1, k2tog, psso, p1, won, k1, slip1 k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
18th row: As 8th row.
19th row: Rib 7, *k1, wf, k5, wf, slip1, k1, psso, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1*, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
20th row: As 10th row.

These 20 rows form the pattern.

Front and Back in One

With No 14 (2mm) needles cast on 141 (145, 149) stitches using two needle method but do not knit into the backs of the stitches.
Work l¼ inches k1/p1 rib, then change to stocking stitch and continue straight until work measures 2½ inches from the start, ending with a purl row.
Next row: Make hem by knitting 1 stitch from needle, together with 1 loop from the cast-on edge all across.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
Next row: p4 (6, 8), (k1, p2) twice, k1, p52, (k1, p2) 5 times, k1, p52, (k1, p2) twice, k1, purl twice in next stitch, p2 (4, 6). [142 (146, 150) sts]

With right side facing, change to lace pattern and keeping a panel of stocking-stitch at each end work as follows:

1st row: k4 (6, 8),work as on 1st row of lace pattern, k4 (6, 8).
2nd row: p4 (6, 8), work as 2nd row of lace pattern, p4 (6, 8).
3rd row: k4 (6, 8), work as 3rd row of lace pattern, k4 (6, 8).
4th row: p4 (6, 8). work as 4th row of lace pattern, p4 [6] “8”.

Continue thus repeating the 20 rows of the lace pattern throughout and shaping the sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 10th (8th, 6th) row, 6 (8, 10) times in all, taking the increased stitches into the stocking stitch panels as they are made.
[154 (162, 170) sts]

Continue straight in pattern until 5 complete patterns and up to the 8th row of the 6th pattern has been done from the start.
Then continue in pattern casting on 17 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the sleeves, thus finishing at the end of the 10th pattern row. [188 (196, 204) sts]

Here introduce a leaf pattern up each sleeve edge as follows:

Next row: k1; repeat from * to * as 11th row of lace pattern; p1, k9 (13, 17); then work in pattern to the last 27 (31, 35) stitches, k9 (13, 17), p1; repeat from * to * as 11th row of lace pattern, k1.
Next row: k1; repeat from * to * as 12th row of lace pattern, p1, p9 (13, 17); then work in pattern to the last 27 (31, 35) stitches, p9 (13, 17), p1; repeat from * to * as 12th row of lace pattern, k1.

Continue in pattern thus until sleeve edge measures 5 inches from cast-on stitches.

Next row: Pattern 81 (85, 89), cast off 26, pattern to end.
Continue in pattern on last 81 (85, 89) stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 73 (77, 81) stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight in pattern until sleeve edge measures 6½ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder as follows:
Next row: Pattern 33 (35, 37) stitches, cast off 13 (14, 14) stitches, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 27 (28, 30) stitches.
Next row: Cast off 13 (14, 15) stitches, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 14 (14, 15).
Cast off. Break yarn.

Right Shoulder and Back Neck: with right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 33 (35, 37) shoulder stitches, cast on 61 (63, 65) stitches for shoulder and back of neck.
Continue as follows on these 94 (98, 102) stitches for the back, keeping continuity of the lace pattern in the sleeve (the back is in plain stocking-stitch... [Editor's note: ...you will be relieved to hear] ...).

Next row (right side facing): knit to the last 18 stitches, p1, pattern 16, k1.
Next row: k1, pattern 16, p1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continue thus until work measures 4 inches from cast-on stitches for back of neck, (this forms the back opening), ending with right side facing. Break yarn.

Left Shoulder and Back Neck: with wrong side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 81 (85, 89) stitches for left shoulder, pattern to end.

Work to correspond with right half ending at end of back opening with a row on the right side.
Here join stitches for back together.
Cast on 1, work across 94 (98, 102) stitches of right side of back.
[189 (197, 205) sts]

Continue straight in stocking-stitch over all stitches with leaf pattern at each end until sleeve edges on back measure same as front.

With right side facing, cast off 17 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then work 54 (48, 50) rows straight in stocking stitch over all stitches.
Now shape the sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (8th, 6th) row, 6 (8, 10) times in all.

Work 5 (5, 5) rows straight, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the last row. [141 (145, 149) sts].

With right side facing, change to No 14 needles and work a further 1¼ inches straight in stocking-stitch, then work 1¼ inches straight in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Collar and Sleeve Edging

Join shoulder seams.

Collar: With right side facing and No 14 needles, starting 3 stitches away from centre stitch on front, pick up and knit 79 (79, 79) stitches round right half of neck to within 3 stitches of the back opening.

1st row: k1, * kb2, p1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; kb2, k1.
2nd row: k1, * pb2, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Increase in 1st stitch, * kb2, p1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, kb1, increase in next stitch, k1.

Keeping a knit stitch a each end of every row, continue in twisted rib, increasing thus at each end of every alternate row until there are 93 (93, 93) stitches.
Rib 1 row. Break yarn.

Starting at back opening, with right side of collar facing, pick up and knit 13 stitches along shaped edge, knit across stitches on needle, then pick up and knit 13 stitches along other side of collar. [119 (119, 119) sts]
Work 3 rows stocking stitch over all stitches, starting with a purl row; then work 3 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Work the other half of the collar to correspond.

Sleeves: with No 14 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 126 (126, 126) stitches along the edge of the sleeve.
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, then work 3 rows k1/p1 rib. Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press work very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth taking care not to spoil the lace pattern.
Fold under the 3 rows of rib round the collar and sleeves to wrong side and slip-hem.
Join side and underarm seams.
Fold under ribbing across lower edge of back and slip-hem in position, leaving sides of hem open for elastic. Thread elastic through hem, join ends neatly and sew up opening.

Sew zip in position down back opening.

Decorate front of jumper down centre of rib panel with pearl buttons in groups of three as in photograph.

Press seams.

Materials

4 (5, 5) oz 2ply
(in pale pink)

One pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 14 (2 mm ) needles.

4 inch zip fastener.
15 pearl buttons.
Elastic for waist.

Tension

36 stitches x 44 rows to 4 inches on 2¾mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
33-34 (35-36, 37-38) inches.
Length from top of shoulders 17 inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
kb/pb: knit/purl into back of stitch
k2/3tog: knit 2/3 stitches together to decrease one/two stitches.
wb: yarn to back.
won: yarn over needle.
wrn: yarn round needle.
wf: yarn to front.
slip1: slip the next stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard UK 2ply for which a baby 2ply or some kind of lace weight yarn could be substituted (always checking the tension).

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

One Size only.
Note: Carry colours not in use loosely up side of work.
B: Main shade (blue); G: 1st contrast (grey); W: 2nd contrast (white).

Left Side

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade Blue (B), cast on 116 stitches and noting that 1st row is a wrong side row, work 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).

Change to No 7 (4½mm ) needles and continue in garter stitch and stripes of 6 rows 1st Contrast Grey (G), 4 rows 2nd Contrast White (W) and 8 rows main shade Blue (B), until work measures 7 inches, ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping continuity of stripes, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 66 stitches remain.

Work 2 rows.
Cast off.

Right Side

Work as for Left Side but shaping the armhole by decreasing at the end of the rows instead of the beginning.

Making up and borders

Do not press.
Using a flat seam, join the straight side edges to form the centre back seam.

Arm Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles
and B, knit up 84 stitches along the shaped edges.
Work 6 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Fold Arm Borders in half (right sides inside) so that the short side edges meet the cast-off edges.
Join these edges together with a fine back-stitch seam.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting yarn, 25% wool , 75% acrylic. For this pattern it's loosely knitted on 4½mm needles.

Materials

DK 50g balls:
3 in main shade
2 in 1st contrast
1 in 2nd contrast

One pair each of No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 28 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 108 (114, 120) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work in twisted stocking stitch thus:
1st Row: knit across all stitches through back loop (ktbl).
2nd Row: purl.
These 2 rows form twisted stocking stitch ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch until work measures 16 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 80 (84, 88) stitches remain ★★.

Continue straight until work measures 23 (23½, 24) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 6 (7, 8) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 36 (38, 40) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the back neck.

Jumper Front

Work as for the back up to ★★.
Continue straight until work measures 21 (21½, 22) inches, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: ktbl 29 (30, 31) stitches; turn.
Continue on these stitches only.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows.
Work 8 rows straight.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches.

With right side facing, slip the centre 22 (24, 26) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Complete the other side of the neck to match.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 11 needles, cast on 44 (46, 48) stitches.
Work as for the back to ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 72 (78, 84) stitches
Continue straight until work measures 17 inches.

To shape the top cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 stitches remain; then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 10 rows.
Cast off.

Jumper Polo Collar

Join the right shoulder.
With right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 18 stitches down the left side of the neck, ktbl the stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 18 stitches up the right side of the neck, ktbl
the stitches from the back neck. [94 (98, 102) sts]

Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 9 needles and rib a further 3½ inches.
Cast off loosely ribwise.

Sleeveless Cardigan Back

Using No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 115 (123, 131) stitches.

Moss Stitch row: k1, (p1, k1) to end.

Editors note: Moss stitch - or "seed stitch" - is worked by alternating knit and purl stitches on every row - like ribbing. However, unlike ribbing, you do not align the knit and purl stitches vertically above each other but do the exact opposite; so, as you view the stitches, you will knit a stitch showing a purl "bump" from the previous row, and purl into a knit stitch.
"Double moss stitch" (not seen in this pattern) is usually where you do 2 rows of apparent rib with the stitches aligned vertically, then for the next two "rib" rows you misalign them with the previous two rows - and so on.
The row given above works up into moss stitch when repeated on an odd number of stitches.

Repeat the Moss Stitch row row 9 times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st Row: with main shade M, k1, (sl1 purlwise, k3) to the last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, k1.
2nd Row: with M, p1, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p1.
3rd Row: join in first contrast (O), (sl1 purlwise, k3) to end.
4th Row: with O, p3, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to end.
5th and 6th Rows: with 2nd contrast (R) work as 1st and 2nd rows.
7th and 8th Rows: with 3rd contrast (G) work as 3rd and 4th rows.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Pattern until work measures 21 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 83 (87, 91) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Work as for the back of the sweater.
Leave the remaining 39 (41, 43) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Editors note: Although the original pattern explicitly states to leave these stitches, I do not see why you would not cast them off at this point - given that you are not required to pick them up again at any point later on, and the edging band is designed to be sewn all around the fronts and back neck.

Sleeveless Cardigan Right Front

Using No. 11 needles and M cast on 59 (63, 67) stitches.
Work as for the back up to the armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Armhole and Front Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 (10, 11) rows, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row; then continue shaping front edge only, until 22 (23, 24) stitches remain.
Work 5 rows.

Shoulder Shaping :
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches

Sleeveless Cardigan Left Front

Work as for the right front, reversing shapings.

Sleeveless Cardigan Bands

Join shoulders.
Using No 11 needles and main shade cast on 9 stitches.
Work 2 inches in moss stitch.

Next Row (make buttonhole): moss stitch 3, cast off 3, moss stitch 3.
Next Row: moss stitch 3, cast on 3, moss stitch 3.
Continue in moss stitch, making further buttonholes 2½ inches apart (measure from base of previous buttonhole) until there are 8 in all.
Continue until band, when slightly stretched, fits all around both fronts
and across back neck.
Cast off.

Work the armbands in the same way, omitting the buttonholes.

Skirt (Back and Front Alike)

Using No 11 needles and colour M, cast on 147 (155, 163) stitches.
Work 10 rows in moss stitch.
Change to No 8 needles and working in pattern as for the sleeveless cardigan, decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row until 101 (109, 117 ) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 20 (20½, 21) inches.

Change to No 11 needles, and using M, work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row with "p1".
Cast off loosely ribwise.

Making Up

Press or block work according to yarn type.

Sweater:
Join the left shoulder and polo collar seams.
Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Sleeveless Cardigan:
Join the side seams.
Sew on the front band.
Join the cast-on and cast-off edges of the armbands.
Sew on the armbands with the seam placed at the underarms.
Sew on the buttons.

Skirt:
Join the side seams.
Join the elastic in a ring and attach to the wrong side of the waist with a herringbone casing.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 1 oz balls:
Jumper:
16 (17, 18)
Sleeveless cardigan:
5 (5, 6) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours
Skirt:
3 (3, 3) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 9 (3¾mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

8 buttons for cardigan.
Waist-length elastic for skirt

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over twisted stocking stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

24 sts x 40 rows measured over Pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34, (36, 38) inches; hips 36 (38, 40) inches.

Sleeveless cardigan length: 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Skirt length:
21 (21½, 22) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit the stitch through the back loop (thus twisting the stitch)
k2tog/p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.

M - Gold
O - Orange
R - Red
G - Green

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a pure wool double knitting crepe.

The later yarn sold in 50g balls states a yardage of 123yds/112m per 50g.

Colours illustrated:
Sun Gold,
Mexican Orange,
Love Apple Red,
Woodland Green.
Suggested other combinations:
Ivory, Peach,
Roman Pink, and
Medoc - or -
White, Peacock.
Club Navy, and
Aubretia.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Back and Front (alike)

Using 4½mm needles, and W (white yarn), cast on 67 (71, 73, 77) stitches, and work 2 (2, 2½, 2½) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 5 (7, 5, 7) * increase in next stitch; rib 7 (7, 8, 8); repeat from * to last 6 (8, 5, 7) stitches; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [75, 79, 81, 85 sts].

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Joining on and cutting off colours as required, proceed in pattern as follows, noting that stitches increased on Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 are decreased to the original number on Rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 14.

Row 1 (right side): knit with main shade W (white).
Row 2: Using W, p4 (6, 7, 9); [k 13, p5] 3 times; k13, p4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 3: Using W, k2 (4, 5, 7); [yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k1] 3 times; yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k2 (4, 5, 7).
Row 4: Using W, p5 (7, 8, 10), [k5, k3tog, k5, p7] 3 times; k5, k3tog, k5, p5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 5: Using W, k3 (5, 6, 8); [yfwd, k15, yfwd, k3] 3 times; yfwd, k15, yfwd. k3 (5, 6, 8).
Row 6: Using W, p6 (8, 9, 11); [k4, k3tog; k4, p9] 3 times; k4, k3tog, k4, p6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 7: Using W, k4 (6, 7, 9), [yfwd, k 13, yfwd, k5) 3 times, yfwd, k13, yfwd,. k4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 8: Using W, p7 (9, 10, 12), [k3, k3tog, k3, p11] 3 times, k3, k3tog, k3, p7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 9: Using R (red yarn), k5 (7, 8, 10); [yfwd, k11, yfwd, k7] 3 times, yfwd, k11, yfwd, k5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 10: Using R, p8 (10, 11, 13); [k2, k3tog, k2, p13) 3 times; k2, k3tog, k2, p8 (10, 11, 13).
Row 11: Using W, k6 (8, 9, 11); [yfwd, k9] 7 times; yfwd, k6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 12: Using W, p9 (11, 12, 14), [k1, k3tog, k1, p15] 3 times, k1, k3tog, k1, p9 (11, 12, 14).
Row 13: Using W, k7 (9, 10, 12), [yfwd, k7, yfwd, k11] 3 times, yfwd, k7, yfwd, k7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 14: Using W, p10 (12, 13, 15), [k3tog, p17] 3 times; k3tog, p10 (12, 13, 15).

Editors note: Now you repeat the same pattern sections but change the colours.

Rows 15 to 22: As Rows 1 to 8 but use R instead of W.
Rows 23 and 24: As Rows 9 and 10 but use N instead of R.
Rows 25 to 28: As Rows 11 to 14 but use R instead of W.
Rows 29 to 36: As Rows 1 to 8 but use N instead of W.
Rows 37 and 38: As Rows 9 and 10 but use W instead of R.
Rows 39 to 42: As Rows 11 to 14 but use N instead of W.

These 42 Rows form the pattern repeat them once more, then work Rows 1 to 14 again.
Now work Rows 1 to 14 once more. Cut off B and C.
Work 5 Rows in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Using 4½mm needles, and W, cast on 37 (37, 39, 39) stitches, and work 2 (2, 2½, 2½) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 2; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 5 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 6 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; rib to end. [75, 75, 79, 79 sts]

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Following instructions for the 1st (1st, 2nd, 2nd) sizes work the 42 pattern rows as for the Back twice, then work rows 1 to 14 again.
Cast off.

To Make Up

See the yarn ball band for washing and pressing details.

Join shoulder seams leaving approximately 9 (9½, 9½, 10) inches open at the centre for the neck.
Mark depth of armholes 8¾ (8¾, 9¼, 9¼) inches down from the shoulders on the back and front.
Set the sleeves in between the markers, then join the side and sleeve seams.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
6 (6, 6, 7) x 50g balls in main colour Snowdrop (white);
3 (3, 3, 3) balls in Grenadier (red); and
2 (3, 3, 3) balls in Navy (dark blue).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm) and No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Tension

17sts and 24 rows to 4 inches over pattern stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
35 (37, 38, 40) inches.
Editors note: This is intended to be a loose fit to suit a 32 - 38 inch chest size.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it.
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was:
65% Acrylic
20% Wool
15% Nylon - yardage not given

Note that chunky yarns can cover a wide variation in thickness so check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (right side): With B, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (right side): With A, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (wrong side): With B, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

• When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
• When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
• When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 85 (89, 93) stitches and work in single rib:
**
1st row (right side): K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches (8cm) from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.
**
Increase row: Rib 6 (8, 10), [double increase, rib 7] 9 times, double increase, rib 6 (8, 10). [105 (109, 113) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue until work measures 13½ (14, 15) inches from the beginning.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (29, 29) times.

Cast off remaining 31 stitches for back neck.

Front

Work as for back until 114 (120, 124) rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan shaping; 39 stitches remain for all sizes, ending with a decrease row.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: Pattern 13, and leave these stitches on a holder; cast off the next 13 stitches; pattern to end.
Continue on these last 13 stitches now remaining on the needle.

***
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 6 rows, and then at the same edge on the next 2 alternate rows, and at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows; then decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every following 4th row twice.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the other set of 13 stitches, and complete in the same way, from *** reversing shaping.

Note that the front is overall 4 rows shorter than the back.

Left Sleeve

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (55, 55) stitches and work as for back welt from ** to **.

Increase row: Rib 4 (6, 6), [double increase, rib 13] 3 times, double increase, rib 4 (6, 6). [59 (63, 63) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 6 (8, 3) times, then every following 8th row 12 (10, 17) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.
[95 (99, 103) sts]

Continue straight until work measures 16 (16½, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a 3rd (5th, 5th) pattern row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 22 (23, 23) times; for all sizes 33 stitches remain, ending with a 5th pattern row.
****

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches for the back sleeve section on a spare needle; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for front section of sleeve.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 9 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 4 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for back sleeve section.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 5 times, then every following 4th row 3 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 5 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Note that front edge off sleeve is 4 rows shorter than back edge.

Right Sleeve

Work as for left sleeve to ****.

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches on a spare needle for front sleeve section; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for back section of right sleeve, and complete as for back section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for front sleeve section, and complete as for front section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Make Up and Neck Borders

Join front raglan seams and right back seam matching vertical stripes. With right side of work facing and using No 11 (3mm) needles, using main colour A, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the neck opening at the top of the left sleeve, 41 stitches round front neck edge, 15 stitches along neck opening at the top of the right sleeve and 32 stitches across the back neck.
Beginning with the 2nd row work in single rib as on the welt for 9 rows then cast off loosely ribwise.
Join left back raglan seam and the ends of the neck border.
Fold this border in half to the wrong side, and slip-stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.
Join side and sleeve seams.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - purple;
5 (6, 6) in contrast colour B - bright teal.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Sweater Back and Front alike:

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 11 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).

Work 10 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row. *
Change to No 9 needles, join in C, and work the pattern from the chart. Work the odd rows as knit, reading the chart from right to left, and repeating the 12 stitches before the dotted line to the last stitch, then k1 stitch beyond the dotted line. Work the even rows as purl, reading the chart from left to right, purling the first stitch (before dotted line), and then repeating the 12 stitches beyond dotted line to end.

Continue until 3 complete patterns have been worked (or until work measures 16 inches from hemline), ending with a purl row.
Break off C.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch with MC.

Shoulder Shaping: Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Purl 1 row (hemline). Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row. Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 49 stitches.
Work as back to *.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for the back, increase 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there
are 61 stitches
Continue until the 26th row of the 2nd pattern has been worked (or until the sleeve measures 10 inches from the hemline).
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Trousers Right Leg:

Beginning at the ankle, with No 10 needles, and MC cast on 76 stitches. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch knit 1 row (hemline).
Change to No 9 needles and continue in stocking stitch until leg
measures 15 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.
Continue straight, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until there are 88 stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Mark each end of last row for the top of the leg.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until 68 stitches remain. Continue until work measures 24½ inches from hemline *, ending with a knit row. **

Shape back by working short rows thus:
Purl 12; turn, knit to end.
Purl 24; turn, knit to end.
Purl 36; turn, knit to end.
Purl 48; turn, knit to end.
Next row: Purl across all stitches.

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Trousers Left Leg:

Work as right leg to *, ending with a purl row.
Complete as right leg from ** but working knit instead of purl, and purl
instead of knit.

Hat:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 97 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row p1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back of sweater until one complete pattern from the chart has been worked (or until work measures 5½ inches), ending with a purl row.
Break off C and continue with MC only.

Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of 1st row. [96 sts].

Shape top thus:
Next row: (k2tog, k6); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k5); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k4); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 24 stitches remain. Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog); repeat to end. [12 sts]
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Mitts (make 2 alike):

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 39 stitches.
Work 2 inches rib as beginning of hat.
Change to No 9 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch.
Shape Thumb thus:
Next row: k19, pick up loop that lies before next stitch and knit it through back loop (referred to as make 1), k1, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k19, m1, k3, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Continue to increase in this way, working 2 stitches more between the increases on every alternate row until there are 51 stitches
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k32; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Next row: p14; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch on these 15 stitches
Next row: (k2tog, k 1) 5 times.
Next row: (p2tog) 5 times.
Break off wool, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and
fasten off securely.
Join thumb seam.

With right side facing and 32 stitches on right hand needle, rejoin yarn at the base of the thumb; pick up and knit 2 stitches at the base of thumb, knit the 6 stitches to the end of the row end. [40 sts].
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch on these stitches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k14, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k12, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: ( k2tog) across row to end.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press or block work.

Sweater: Join shoulder and neck facing seams.
Sew top of sleeves to sides, beginning and ending 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn in hems and catch-stitch in place.

Trousers: Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up hems and catch-stitch in place.
Join elastic in ring and attach to wrong side of waist with herringbone casing.

Hat: Join seam.
Make pompon and sew on top.

Mitts: Join seam.

Materials

Worked in a standard double knitting yarn (swatch as per tension given).

Sweater:
6 oz main colour, and 4 oz contrast.

Hat:
2 oz main colour, and 1 oz contrast.

Trousers:
9 oz main colour.

Mitts:
2 oz main colour.

Pair each of No 9 (3¾mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Waist length of elastic.

Tension

26sts to 4 inches over fair-isle, 24sts over stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

Sweater:
To fit 24 inch chest; length 16½ inches; sleeve: 10 inches.

Trousers:
Width around widest part 26 inches;
leg length 16½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

MC = main colour
C = contrast

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike:

With No 13 (2¼mm) needles cast on 112 / 120 / 128 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to end, finishing last repeat k3.
5th row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to end, ending last repeat k2.
7th row: as 3rd row.
9th row: knit
11th row: k7, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to last stitch, k1.
13th row: k5, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to last 3 stitches, k3.
15th row: as 11th row.
16th row: purl.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern and increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 128 / 136 / 144 stitches.
Then continue straight until work measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Armhole Shaping: Cast off 4 / 5 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Armhole Shaping:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 40, turn.
Continue on these stitches only, casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows; at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 7 rows.
Knit the last 2 stitches together and fasten off.

With right side facing, cast off the centre 28/ 32 / 36 stitches.
Complete to match the first side.

Frill (two pieces alike)

With No 12 needles and contrast edge colour, cast 168/ 184 / 200 stitches.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Break off contrast edge colour, join on main colour, and repeat the
16 pattern rows of the main part twice, then repeat 1st to 8th rows once more.
Next row: k 0 / 1 / 2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from * to end.
Change to No 13 needles. Beginning with a purl row, work 4 rows stocking stitch, then knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch for the casing.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press lightly.
Join side seams.

Armhole Edgings: With right side facing, using No 13 needles, pick up and k32 / 36 / 40 stitches around the armhole edge.
Knit 1 row. Cast off

Join side edges of frill. Fold cast-on edge to wrong side at hemline and sew down, leaving an opening to insert elastic.
Stitch centre of each "side" of the frill to the entire neck shaping of back and front, leaving remainder free at each side to complete armholes.
Thread elastic through casing; adjust to fit and join ends. Close opening.

Materials

Fingering 3 ply weight metallic yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 25g balls in main colour, and 1 ball for the edging detail.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm), and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to four inches

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 / 34 / 36 inches;
length: 18 / 18½ / 19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch [also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A Word on the Wool.

The original yarn was Twilleys Goldfingering - available in 25g balls with a yardage of 100m (109yds), 80% Viscose 20% Metallised Polyester.
Although the Twilleys company wound up in 2007, Goldfingering is currently still fairly widely available - and in some rather inspiring colours. At time of writing, for example, the colour 05 silver is on special offer here, (the picture shows the colour "pewter" with edging in "ebony").

Instructions for Jacket and Skirt Suit

Jacket Back

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and B, cast on 80 / 84 / 88 / 92 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 10 / 12 / 4 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, * knit 4, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 9 / 11 / 3 / 5 stitches, knit 9 / 11 / 3 / 5.
[93 / 97 / 105 / 109 stitches]

With right side facing, change to No 7 (4½mm) needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: using D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: using D, * p2, with wool at front, slip 1 purlwise, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
3rd row: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: using B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1. 6th row: using B, * slip 1, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until back measures approximately 14 inches, ending with 8th pattern row.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until 69 / 73 / 79 / 83 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 6 / 2 / 5, p2tog, * p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last 4 / 5 / 3 / 4 stitches, purl 4 / 5 / 3 / 4.
[58 / 62 / 66 / 70 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until back measures 21 / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining 24 / 26 / 28 / 30 stitches.

Jacket Left Front

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row: knit 3 / 3 / 5 / 3, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 4 / 3 / 2 / 2, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 4 / 4 / 6 / 4 stitches, knit 4 / 4 / 6 / 4.
[45 / 49 / 53 / 57 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and diamond pattern, starting with 1st pattern row, and work straight until front matches back at side edge, ending with 8th pattern row.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Pattern back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next and every alternate row until 33 / 37 / 40 / 44 stitches remain. Break D.

Next row: in B, purl 3 / 4 / 3 / 1, p2tog, * purl 3 / 2 / 2 / 2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 3 / 3 / 3 / 1 stitches, purl 3 / 3 / 3 / 1.
[27 / 29 / 31 / 33 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch in B, starting with a knit row, until front measures 19½ / 20 / 20 / 20½ inches down centre.
With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at this edge on every row until 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

Jacket Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 40 / 42 / 42 / 44 stitches and work 11 rows garter stitch.
With right side facing, change to No 7 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th/7th/7th/5th and every following 8th row, until there are 56 / 60 / 60 / 64 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 22 / 24 / 20 / 22 stitches remain. Purl back.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 / 18 / 18 / 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Collar

Using No 10 needles and B, cast on 60 / 62 / 64 / 66 stitches and work in garter stitch, shaping collar by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 70 / 72 / 74 / 76 stitches
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 7 / 8 / 8 / 8, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 6 / 4 / 5 / 6 stitches; knit 6 / 4 / 5 / 6.
[78 / 80 / 82 / 84 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 7 / 4 / 5 / 6, knit twice in next stitch, knit 8 / 9 / 9 / 9, knit twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches; knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[86 / 88 / 90 / 92 sts]

Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit twice in the next stitch, knit 9 / 10 / 10 / 10, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 7 / 5 / 6 / 7 stitches, knit 7 / 5 / 6 / 7.
[ 94 / 96 / 98 / 100 sts]

Work 7 rows straight,
Next row: * knit 8 / 5 / 6 / 7, knit twice in the next stitch, * knit 10 / 11 / 11 / 11, knit twice in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 8 / 6 / 7 / 8 stitches, knit 8 / 6 / 7 / 8.
[102 / 104 / 106 / 108 sts]

Work 7 rows straight. Cast off.

Front Bands

Right: With No 10 needles and B, pick up and knit 107 / 109 / 109 / 111 stitches up right front to start of neck shaping.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Make 7 buttonholes in next 2 rows as follows:—
Next row: knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5, (cast off 3, knit 13) 6 times, cast off 3, knit 4/ 5 / 5 / 5.
Next row: knit, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Left: Work to correspond with right front band, omitting buttonholes.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Pin cast-on and increasing edge of collar all round neck, starting and ending in centre of front bands.
Sew neatly in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press stud under collar.

Skirt

First panel:
With No 10 needles and B, cast on 55 / 59 / 63 / 67 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch, (every row, knit).
Next row: knit, increasing 10 stitches evenly across.
[65 / 69 / 73 / 77 sts]

With right side facing, change to No 7 needles, join in D and work in pattern as follows:—
1st row: in D, * k1, with wool at back, slip 3 purlwise repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
2nd row: in D, * p2, slip 1 purlwise, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
3rd row: knit in D.
4th row: purl in D.
5th row: in B, * slip 2, k1, slip 1; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
6th row: * slip 1, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.
7th row: knit in B.
8th row: purl in B.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Work a further 4 / 8 / 10 / 16 rows straight in pattern.
Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 16th / 14th / 14th / 12th row until 51 / 53 / 57 / 59 stitches remain. **

Work 3 / 3 / 1 / 1 rows straight, then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until 31 / 33 / 35 / 37 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 20 / 20½ / 21 / 21½ inches down centre, ending with 8th pattern row.
Break D.

Change to No 10 needles, and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib in B.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Make 3 more panels the same, one for each side, and one more for back or front.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join seams.
Press seams.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join into a ring; sew inside top of skirt using herringbone stitch over elastic to form a casing.

Materials

Jacket:
15 / 16 / 17 / 18 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
4 / 4 / 5 / 5 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Skirt:
8 / 9 / 9 / 10 x 1oz balls balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")
6 / 4 / 6 / 6 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.
½ inch wide elastic to fit waist.
1 press stud.

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

18sts and 25 rows to 4 inches in tweed yarn on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Jacket:
To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22 / 22½ inches;
sleeve seam: 15 / 15½ / 15½ / 16

Skirt:
To fit hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length: 21/ 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches;

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed DK (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a finer yarn, and much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly, and the tension here aligns Bracken more towards being an Aran yarn rather than a DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for Dress

Skirt sections

Work panel as given for skirt above from ** to **.
[51 / 53 / 57 / 59 sts]

Work 9 / 9 / 7 / 13 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 10th row.
[47 / 49 / 53 / 55 sts]

Work a few rows straight until panel measures 16½ / 17 / 17½ / 18 inches down centre, ending with 4th pattern row, and increasing 1 stitch in the centre of this row for the 2nd and 4th sizes only.
[47 / 50 / 53 / 56 sts]

Break off B yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make another 3 panel sections the same, and number each panel 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Bodice back:

To make the bodice, arrange the stitches from the skirt panels as follows:—
Slip the first 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 and the last 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 on stitch holders.
With No 8 (4mm) needles, and right side facing, using D yarn knit the remaining 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 1, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 2, then knit remaining 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 3.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

*** Continue working back and forth in stocking stitch on these 94 / 100 / 106 / 112 stitches for the back, starting with a purl row and work 3 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 25 / 27 / 29 // 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, k2tog, k1 , k2togtbl, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, k2tog, k1, k2togtbl, knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 29.
[78 / 84 / 90 / 96 sts]
Work 15 rows straight.
Next row: knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30, increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitches and knitting into back of it, k1, increase 1 as before, knit 28 / 30 / 32 / 34, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 24 / 26 / 28 / 30.
[82 / 88 / 94 / 100 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 30 / 32 / 34 / 36, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 25 / 27 / 29 / 31.
[86 / 92 / 98 / 104 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 32 / 34 / 36 / 38, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 26 / 28 / 30 / 32.
[90 / 96 / 102 / 108 sts]
Work 7 rows straight.
Next row: knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 34 / 36 / 38 / 40, increase 1, k1, increase 1, knit 27 / 29 / 31 / 33.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work straight until bodice measures 12½ / 12½ / 12 / 12 inches from start.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain. ***

Work a few rows straight until bodice measures 15½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.
Here divide for back opening: -
Next row: knit 33 / 35 / 37 / 39.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue straight on these 33 / 35 / 37 / 39 stitches for first side until bodice measures 19½ inches down centre.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 7 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Purl back.
Leave the remaining 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side of back.

Bodice front:

With No 8 needles and right side facing, using D yarn, work as follows:—
knit 24 / 25 / 26 / 28 stitches of panel No 3 from the stitch holder, knit across 47 / 50 / 53 / 56 stitches of panel No 4, then knit 23 / 25 / 27 / 28 stitches of panel No 1 from the stitch holder.
[94 / 100 / 106 / 112 sts]

Work as for Bodice back from *** to ***.
66 / 70 / 74 / 78 stitches remain.
Continue straight on these stitches until bodice front measures 17½ inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Here divide for neck:-
Next row: knit 26 / 27 / 28 / 29.
Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue on these 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
[18 / 19 / 20 / 21 sts]
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder as given for back.

With right side facing, slip centre 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding garter stitch borders.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing, and using the set of No 10 needles, or circular needle, work in D yarn as follows:—
Knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from left side of back, increasing 2 stitches evenly; pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of front, knit 14 / 16 / 18 / 20 stitches from centre front increasing 4 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 16 stitches up right side of front, knit 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from right side of back increasing 2 stitches evenly across.
[84 / 88 / 92 / 96 sts]

Arranging the stitches evenly on 3 needles, or using circular needle, work backwards and forwards in garter stitch (every row knitted) for 3 rows.
Next row: knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8, k2tog, * knit 10 / 10 / 11 / 11, k2tog; repeat from to last 5 / 7 / 6 / 8 stitches, knit 5 / 7 / 6 / 8.
[77 / 81 / 85 / 89 sts]

Work a further 3 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Armbands: With right side facing, and using No 10 needles, work in D yarn as follows:—
Pick up and knit 76 / 76 / 84 / 84 stitches round each armhole.
Work 6 rows garter stitch. Cast off.

Join side seams and armbands with a flat seam.
Insert zip into back opening allowing edges to meet to conceal it.
Press all seams.

Materials

12 / 13 / 14 / 15 x 1oz balls in plain double knitting ("Amberglow")
6 / 7 / 7 / 8 x 1oz balls in tweed double knitting ("Peat Moss")

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles or a circular needle.

A 5 inch zip fastener for back of dress.
[Editor's note: probably better to check the measurement once the bodice is completed.]

Tension

16sts and 27 rows over 3 inches on 4½mm needles over diamond pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest:
32-33 / 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
hips: 34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 / 40-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 36 / 36½ / 37 / 37½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
garter stitch: every row knit.

D = plain double knitting colour
B = tweed double knitting colour

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Bracken combined with a plain DK.
Bracken originally came - as per this pattern - in 100% pure wool balls of 1oz (28g) balls. There's no indication of yardage for either this or the later version of the yarn (50g balls of 60% wool).
Tension is standard 22 sts to 4 inches on 4mm needles.

I would substitute with Rowan Felted Tweed (because I love it and there is a wonderful range of colours); however it's a much loftier and light weight yarn than Bracken, which knitted up quite firmly.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for woman's jacket

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 122 / 128 / 136 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on the middle size only. [122 / 129 / 136 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change to No 6 needles and repeat from 1st to 34th rows inclusive once, then 1st to 24th rows inclusive once.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. ***

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armholes by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work a further 6 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 6th rows.

Repeat the last 6 rows until 32 / 37 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

For the 2nd size: work 4 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and 3rd rows.

For the 3rd size: work 8 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the 1st and then alternate rows.

For all sizes: cast off the remaining 32 / 33 / 34 stitches, firmly.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 / 80 stitches, and work exactly as for back to ***.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, work in rib to end.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
** Work a further 6 rows decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 6th rows.
Repeat the last 6 rows until 46 / 51 / 57 stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

SHAPE NECK:
For the 1st size continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off.

For the 2nd and 3rd sizes: continue decreasing as before but at each end of the needle until 31 / 21 stitches remain.
Now continue decreasing at the armhole edge as before and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 10 / 14 stitches remain.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. Cast off. **

Right Front

Work exactly as for left front to the start of the armhole shaping, then work one more row in rib to end with the wrong side facing.

Now shape the armhole:

Next row: cast off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continuing on No 6 needles:
Work as for the left front from ** to **.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 40 / 40 / 42 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 5 / 5 / 10 stitches evenly across on the last row. [45 / 45 / 52 sts]

Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 2 / 2 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 89 / 91 / 98 stitches. Then continue straight until the 28th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape armhole exactly as for back until 43 / 43 / 48 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 9 / 5 / 6 stitches remain. Cast off.

Front Borders

Left: With No 7 needles, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows until border fits up edge of left front to the start of the neck shaping when slightly stretched.
Cast off evenly in rib. Sew in position.

Right: Work a similar strip for the right front, with the addition of 8 buttonholes; the first to come in the 5th and 6th rows up from the lower edge, and the 8th just below the start of the neck shaping, and the remaining 6 spaced evenly in between.
First mark the position of the buttons with pins on the left border to ensure even spacing and work the buttonholes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 4, cat off 3, rib 4; rib back, casting on 3 over those cast off.

When border is finished, cast off evenly in rib, and sew in position.

Collar

With No 7 needles, cast on 139 / 141 / 145 stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib as given for left front border, until collar measures 4 inches. Cast off 24 / 25 / 27 stitches at he beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join raglan, side and sleeve seams, matching patterns carefully.
Sew collar in position, placing ends to centre of front borders.
Press seams as above.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
14 / 14 / 15 x 2oz balls in snow white.

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

8 buttons.

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
35-36 / 37-38 / 39-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 / 25½ / 26 inches;
sleeve seam: 17 inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for man's zipped jacket

Note: instructions are given for 2 sizes.
Use No 6 (5mm) needles for cables and No 7 (4½mm) needles for the ribbing after the welt.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 136 / 142 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 stitches evenly across on the last row. [143 / 150 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: k1, p2, * k4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; k4, p2, k1.
2nd row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.

**
3rd row: k1, p2, * cable4, p3; repeat from * to last 7 sts; cable4, p2, k1.
4th row: k3, * p4, k3; repeat from * to end.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: as 2nd row.
7th row: as 1st row.
8th row: as 2nd row.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice more, then repeat the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st rows once more, in that order.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles.

24th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.
34th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

These 34 rows form the pattern.

Change back to No 6 needles and continue in pattern until 3 complete patterns have been completed from the start.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 103 / 98 stitches remain. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 41 / 42 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: rib 21 / 28 and slip these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder, cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape as follows:
Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [27 / 27 sts]
Break yarn and leave these stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the last 21 / 28 stitches; cast on 3, and rib to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Continue in pattern, casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 46 / 53 stitches, taking the cast on stitches into the pattern as they are made, and ending at the side edge.

Now continue in pattern over all stitches, until front matches back at side edge, ending with wrong side facing.

Keeping pattern correct and changing needles as before, shape raglan armhole:

Next row: cast off 4, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 / 22 rows. [59 / 54 sts]
Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge at the beginning of every alternate row until 36 / 37 stitches remain, thus ending with right side facing.

Shape neck:

Next row: cast off 12 / 13, pattern to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain. P2. Cast off.

Left Front

With No 8 needles cast on 66 / 72 stitches, and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, increasing 7 / 8 stitches evenly across on the last row. [73 / 80 sts]

12th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Change to No 6 needles and pattern as given for the back.
Work 29 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing,

Here divide for pocket.

Next row: pattern 52 / 52 and slip the remaining 21 / 28 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: cast off 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.

Next row: cast off 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 27 stitches remain, ending at the front edge.

Break yarn and leave these 27 stitches onto a spare needle or stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to last 21 / 28 stitches.
Next row: cast on 3, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end.
Next row: work in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more. [46 / 53 sts]. Break wool.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn at front edge, and continue in pattern over all stitches, and finish to correspond with right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles cast on 48 / 52 stitches, and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 11 / 14 stitches evenly across on the last row. [59 / 66 sts]

Change to No 6 needles and cable pattern, as for the back, and work
2 / 6 rows.

Continue working in cable and rib pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 109 / 110 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Then continue straight until the 34th row of the 3rd pattern has been completed - that is, finishing on on the same row as the back before the start of the armhole shaping.

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 18 rows. [65 / 66 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5 / 6 stitches remain, ending with right side facing. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Collar

Join raglan seams, matching patterns.
With No 7 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 28 stitches round right side of neck, knit the 5 / 6 sleeve stitches, knit 41 /42 from
back increasing 8/5 stitches evenly across as you go, knit 5/6 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 28 stitches round left side of neck.
[115 / 115 sts.]

Next row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more

Next row (increases): rib 4, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it; rib to last 4 stitches, pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knit into the back of it, rib 4.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Repeat the last 4 rows until the collar is 5 inches deep at the centre back, taking the increased stitches into the rib pattern.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Linings an Borders

Linings: With No 6 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 32 stitches along top slope of each pocket and work 4 inches in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off.
Borders: With No 7 needles, pick up and knit 34 stitches along lower slope of each pocket and work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib,
Cast off evenly in rib.

To Make Up

Pin out the pieces to sizes required and block or press according to the instructions for the wool you are using (usually given on the ball band).
Join side and sleeve seams matching patterns.
Catch down pocket linings and borders to main work.
Work a row of double crochet (US = single crochet) along the edge of each front.
Insert zip fastener into front opening, allowing crochet edging to
meet over zip to conceal it.
Press all seams as before.

Materials

Aran yarn:
18 / 19 x 2oz balls in in gendarme blue

Pair each of No 6 (5mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

A zip fastener (double-ended - suitable for a jacket).
[Editor's note: no length is suggested for the zip, and probably better to measure, or monitor the length as you make the jacket.]

Tension

19sts and 24 rows to four inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
39-40 / 41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 27½ / 27½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18½ / 18½ inches (all sizes).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
cable4: slip next 2 stitches on to a cable needle to front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Ariel designed for outer wear with a slightly rough texture. It was one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never really caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight. It came in 2oz (57g) balls at 89m/97yards, 80% wool, 20% man-made fibres.
Really do try a swatch for this one as Arans and worsteds cover a wide range of tensions on a variety of needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for Tunic

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 121 / 121 / 127 stitches, and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Break off W.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 18 / 18 / 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [130 / 130 / 136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [121 / 121 / 127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 9 needles and work 42 / 46 / 50 rows straight in stocking stitch in main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 8 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 9 needles and work 1 / 3 / 5 rows in stocking stitch, in W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 9 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [111 / 111 / 117 sts].

When the neck shapings are complete, work 34 / 38 / 42 rows straight in stocking stitch using W, starting with a knit row.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 8 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

Ribbed Border

Front: with right side facing, using W wool and No 9 needles, pick up and knit 114 / 120 / 126 stitches evenly along the lower edge.
Work 10 / 14 / 10 rows in k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.
Work the back ribbed border in the same way.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth, avoiding the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.

Turn with 1 chain, and work a further 3 rows dc, turning with 1 chain
at the end of every row.
Fasten off.

Join the left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armholes: Measure 6¼ / 6¾ / 7¼ inches from the top of the shoulder down the side edge on the back and front, and mark with pins.
With right side facing, W wool and crochet hook, work a row of dc between the pins. Work a further 3 rows dc, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row. Fasten off.
Work the other armhole in the same way.

Join side and border seams; press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
2 / 2 / 2 oz in each of green (G) and red (R);
1 / 2 / 2 oz in blue (B);
1 / 1 / 1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

23sts and 31 rows to four inches on 3¾mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
33-34 / 35-36 / 37-38 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21½ / 22 / 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: green
R: red
B: blue
Y: yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for Poncho

Instructions are given for 3 sizes, and the tunic is knitted sideways, following the chart.
Carry unused wool loosely behind work to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and main shade (W), cast on 127 stitches, and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and with right side facing, work the Fair Isle pattern from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

On knit rows, first work section A, then repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times. On purl rows, repeat the 6 pattern stitches 19 times, then work section A, as indicated.

Thus your first 2 rows will read :
1st row (right side facing): knit in green (G).
2nd row: purl, * 1G, 1Y; repeat from * to last stitch, 1G.

Continue working from chart until 36th pattern row has been completed, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every
following 4th row for shoulder as indicated : [136 sts].

Shape back of neck by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the following 6 rows as indicated: [127 sts].
Work 1 row straight to complete the Fair Isle panel.
Break off B.

Change back to No 7 needles and work 26 rows straight in stocking stitch using main shade W, starting with a knit row.
Change to No 6 needles, join in B, and work the Fair Isle panel for the left side.
To reverse the pattern, read the chart as before, but work down the chart, starting with the 44th row.
When you are working backwards, even rows are knit, and odd rows, purl.
So the first 2 rows will read:
44th row (right side facing): knit 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W, * 2W, 1B, 3W; repeat from * to end.
43rd row: purl, * 3W, 1B, 2W; repeat from * to last 13 stitches; 3W, 1B, 5W, 1B, 3W.

Finish to correspond with chart, increasing for neck and decreasing for shoulder as indicated.
When the 44 rows of chart are done, break G.

Change to No 7 needles and work 6 rows in stocking stitch, using W, starting with a knit row.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for back, shaping neck by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 37th row, then decreasing as indicated, and changing to No 7 needles when the 44 rows of the Fair Isle panel have been completed: [117 sts].
Break off B.

When the neck shapings are complete, work 18 rows straight in stocking stitch using W.
Now, reading chart in reverse as before, work 4 more rows in W, shaping the neck as indicated.
Change to No 6 needles, and Fair Isle pattern, and finish as for the back, shaping neck and shoulder as before.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on the wrong side, under a damp cloth.

Neck edging front: with right side facing, using W and crochet hook, start at the left side of the neck on the front, and work a row of double crochet (English = double crochet, American= single crochet) evenly round neck edge.
Turn with 1 chain.
Work a 2nd row of dc.
Fasten off.
Neck edging back: work as for front.

In the same way, neaten the side edgings by working a row of dc down the right side of the front, along the lower edge, and up the other side; turn with one chain, and work a 2nd row.
Fasten off.

Work a crochet edging on the back in the same way.

Join shoulder seams.
Press seams and edgings.

Make ties: with 3 strands of W, or contrast yarn, make 4 lengths of crochet chain, about 20 inches long. Sew one length to each side of front and back, about 3½ inches in from the side and 10 inches up from the lower edge.
Tie as shown in the photo.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:
10 x 1oz balls in main shade (W), snow white;
3 oz in green (G);
2 oz in tangerine (R);
2 oz in blue (B);
1 oz in yellow (Y).

Pair each of No 6 (5mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.
No 10 (3¼mm) crochet hook.

Tension

20sts and 25 rows to four inches on 4½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width across front measured flat:
22 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
W: main white
G: lime green
R: tangerine
B: royal blue
Y: sun yellow

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a blend of wool and acrylic, making it so-called "light weight", though it's an Aran or worsted weight yarn.
A cotton blend might be pleasanter for the beach.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets
The top is made up by joining a number of crocheted square motifs.

Special instructions: make cluster

This is a 3 dtr cluster made by working 3 dtr together as follows:

* yoh twice, insert hook into stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * twice more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

When working a cluster at the beginning of the round, work as follows:

3ch (counts as first dtr), * yoh twice, insert hook into same stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * once more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

Basic Motif

Make 6 ch, close circle with 1 slip stitch.
Work in rounds.
1st round: work 12 dc into the centre of the circle, joining to first dc with a slip stitch.
2nd round: make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch; (make cluster, 3ch) 11 more times. Join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.
3rd round: slip stitch into the next chain space, make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch, make cluster into the same ch space, * (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch; (make cluster, 3 ch, make cluster) all in next chain space; repeat from * twice more.
End with (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch, and join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.

Make 298 (332) identical motifs. These are then joined in strips of various lengths in order the build up the cardigan shape.

Joining motifs

Make sure the motifs are all the same side up when you start to join them. Work as follows: join to the corner of the second completed motif, then make 2 ch, then 1dc into the loop on the corner of previous motif. Continue thus, with 2 ch, 1 dc into each of the following loops, alternating between each of the two motifs.

Below is an example of the motifs with the joining stitches shown in a different colour.

Lower edge of cardigan (back and fronts)

Make 7 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 7 motifs which is the back and fronts worked together up to the armholes).

Back (top and sleeves)

Make 5 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 5 motifs which is the back and sleeves worked together from the armholes up to the shoulders).

Right front (top and sleeves)

Make 3 strips of 9 (10) motifs and then join them.
Make 2 strips of 7 (8) motifs and then join them to the previous piece,
staggering them 2 motifs to the left for the front neck.

Left front (top and sleeves)

Work in the same way,the opposite way round.

Putting it all together

The assembly diagram below shows the smaller size, which requires you to join the bottom of the cardigan to the top sections centred across an uneven number of squares (9) - so involves joining a "half square". The larger size has an even number (10).
All the motifs are made in the same colour - the colour coding below is just to help understand how the sections are joined together.

Join the lower section to the top, joining the centre 9 (10) motifs for the back - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (b) -
and join the 4½ (5) motifs at each end for the fronts - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (c) for the right front and (b) and (d) for the left front.

Join the top of garment across the shoulders and tops of sleeves. (There are 7 (8) motifs each side.)

Iron lightly on wrong side of work.

Stitch the sleeve seams - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (g) for the right sleeve and (b) and (h) for the left sleeve.

Work 5 rows of dc all round the sweater, working a little tighter round
the neckline.
Work 5 rows of dc around each sleeve edge.

Sew in all ends. (I would advise sewing in ends on each motif as you go since this can be a rather daunting task if they are all left to the end).

A Word on the Wool

This is made using cotton 8, which is fine but not that fine.
For comparison, the sort of cotton you would use to make doilies would have been typically (Coats) cotton 20 - and the bigger the number the finer the thread.

You can find cotton 8 on line as rather expensive fine crochet cotton by the likes of DMC, or in more budget versions from bulk distributors such as Hobbii.

The key criteria to look for (even if it's called cotton No 8) is a knitting gauge - often printed on a ball band - of 39 sts x 59 rows to 10 cm square on 2mm needles; and a yardage of something like 285 meters to 50g.
After that you should experiment making a motif or two using a 1½mm hook, and then varying the hook size if necessary to get the right size.

If you want to make this in a fine wool then laceweights would probably suit (again be sure to try a motif). I implied above that the yardage could be used as an indication of suitable thickness when substituting, but not if you are substituting with wool because it has a different density to cotton. You can use the yardage as a guide to how much yarn to purchase to make this garment, but not for any indication of suitable thickness.

Materials

7 (8) x 50g balls cotton No 8 in colour "Heliotrope".

1.5 mm crochet hook

Tension

Each motif measures 5cm, (2 inches)

Size matters

10-12 / 14-16
[32 - 34 / 36 - 38 inch chest]

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
yoh: yarn over hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back

**
With No 13 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 114 (122 : 130) stitches and work 4 inches in k1/p1 rib, working into the backs of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted effect.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 15th and every following 6th row until there are 132 (140 : 148) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 11½ (12 : 12) inches, ending with a purl row.
**

Here shape the underarm by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 8 knit rows: [148 (156 : 164) sts]
Work straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ (6½ : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off he remaining 40 (40 : 44) stitches fairly loosely.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** : [132 (140 : 148) sts]
Continue straight until front measures 11½ inches from purl ridge.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k55 (59 : 63), turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for the first shoulder, increasing at the underarm at the beginning of the next 7 knit rows: [64 (68 : 72) sts].
Purl back.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping neck edge by knitting 2 stitches together at the end of the next and every following 6th row 10 (10 : 12) times in all. Work a few rows straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ (6½ : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows at the armhole edge

With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches, slip the centre 20 (20 : 20) stitches on a spare needle, knit to the last stitch, increase in the last stitch.
Work the right side to correspond with the left.

Collar

For all sizes: Join shoulder seams.

Right half: With No 11 needles k20 from spare needle at the front, increasing 1 stitch in the centre to 21 stitches, and work in moss stitch as follows:

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Next row: k2, (purl into the front then knit into the back of the next stitch), moss stitch to end.
Continue in moss stitch, increasing 1 stitch inside the 2 border stitches on the next 5 rows: [37 sts]
Continue in moss stitch,keeping garter stitch border as before, until piece fits up right side of neck to shoulder, then round to centre back of neck.
Cast off in moss.

Left half: With No 11 needles, cast on 21 stitches.

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more, then finish to correspond with right half.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing. With right side facing and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 124 (124 : 128) stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Press facing.
Join side and underarm seams.
Turn facing to wrong side and slip-hem all round.
Join collar neatly at back of neck with a flat seam.
Sew cast-on stitches for left side of collar at back of right border at start of neck; pin centre of collar to centre back of neck, then sew neatly in position all round.
Press seams.

A Word on the Wool

3 ply weight might be a bit hard to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet, I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Susan Crawford offers a lovely range of bright colours in Fenella which is designed for use with 3 ply vintage patterns.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Materials

6 (6 : 7) ozs 3 ply crepe in "Flamingo"

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36 : 37-38) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 20 (20½ : 21) inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

Motifs may be worked in Fair Isle or embroidered when garment is completed.
When working Fair Isle use separate balls of the contrasting colours for each motif. Always twist the wools round each other when changing colour to avoid leaving a hole.
Knitters may find it easier to ensure a tight edge by knitting the first and last stitches on every purl row.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a full version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

THE JUMPER

Jumper Front

Using No 13 needles and gold (L) wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and white (W) wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 2 rows in white (W).
In the next row commence motif working the 43 rows from chart 1.

Work 1 row in white (W).
Join in gold (L).
**
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
**
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
In the next row commence the motif working the first 14 rows from chart 2.

Shape the Armholes

Continuing to work from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work straight until the 39 rows of chart 2 are completed.
Work 4 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L.
*** Continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: * 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
***
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck
Next row: Knit 32, cast off 17, knit to end.

Now work on and finish each side separately:
Work 1 row.
Keeping arm edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then every alternate row until there are 27 stitches left, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Still decreasing 1 stitch on every alternate row at the neck edge, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are eliminated.

Rejoin the wool to the other side at the neck edge and complete to match the 1st side.

Jumper Back

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Work 46 rows.
Join in L.
Now work as Front from ** to **.
Cut L.
Work 17 rows in W.
Continue in W.

Shape the Armholes:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work 16 rows in W.
Join in L.
Now work as for Front from *** to ***.
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 12 rows.

Shape the Shoulders:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of every row until there are 33 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool, cast on 60 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Next row (increase row): Rib 4, * increase once in the next stitch, rib 3, repeat from * to end. [74 sts].
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.

Work until sleeve measures 2½ inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 54 stitches left, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 34 stitches left, and then 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 22 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Neck Band

Join the right shoulder seam.
Using No 13 needles, with right side of work facing you, and using L wool, knit up 80 stitches round the neck.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up the jumper

Press or block each piece separately with a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the collar and cuff of the Queens' robe in white, and the horses' reins in black.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side and sleeve seams.
Sew left shoulder seam for 1¼ inches from arm edge.
Set in sleeves.
With L wool work 2 rows of double crochet, (US: single crochet), along shoulder opening making, 3 small button loops on the front edge.
Sew on buttons to match.
Press seams.

THE CARDIGAN

Instructions have been given for a boys' cardigan.
If a girls' cardigan is required, the work buttonholes in the right front instead of the left front.

Cardigan Back

Work as for back of jumper.

Cardigan Right Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib to the last 14 stitches, put these 14 stitches on a safety pin for the front band.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) and W. wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 4 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the 36 rows from chart No. 3.

Work 6 rows in W.
Join in L.
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the first 15 rows from chart No 4.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 35 rows of the motif are complete.
Work 8 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L and continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
2nd row: 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L.
4th row: 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L.
6th row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, .3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
8th row: 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
Cut L.
Continue in W, and work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches, work to end.
Work 1 row.
Now keeping armhole edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then on every alternate row until there are 27 stitches remaining, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Continue to decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge, and at the same time, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and
alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are cast off.

Cardigan Left Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ of an inch.
In the next 2 rows make buttonholes as follows:
Next row: Rib 6, cast off 2, rib to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off on the preceding row.

Continue in rib, making one more buttonhole 1½ inches from the 1st until work measures 3 inches from cast on edge ending at centre-front edge.
Next row: Rib 14 stitches and place on safety pin for the front band, rib to end.
Change to No 12 needles and work in stocking stitch using W wool.

Commence 1st panel.
Work 4 rows in W.
In the next row commence motif working the 36 rows from chart 5.
Work 6 rows in W.

Join in L, and continue as follows :
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W,
1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W; repeat from * once more.

7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L
Commence 2nd panel.
Work 3 rows in W
In the next row start working the motif, working the first 14 rows from chart 6.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from the chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 36 rows of the motif are complete.

Work 7 rows in W ending with a knit row.
Join in L
Continue as follows:
1st row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W.
3rd row: 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
5th row: 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W.
9th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
Cut L.

Continue in W
Work 1 row.
Shape neck and complete to match the Right Front.

Cardigan Borders

Left front border:
Rejoin L wool to the stitches left on safety pin and using No 13 needles work in rib making 6 more buttonholes at 1½ inch intervals. Work a further ½ inch after the last buttonhole has been worked.
Cast off.
Work the right front border the same way omitting buttonholes.

[Editor's note: In case of tension variations, you may wish to make the plain border first - which will be the right border for a boy and the left border for a girl - so you can see how many rows you need to fit nicely up the front; you can then work out how best to place the buttonholes evenly up the other side.]

The Collar

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 137 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.
5th row: k1, p1, k2tog, rib to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, p1, k1.
Repeat, this decrease on every 4th row until there are
123 stitches left.
Work 3 rows.
Cast off in rib.

Cardigan Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 50 stitches.
Work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 74 stitches.
Work without further shaping until sleeve measures 10 inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape top as for jumper sleeve instructions.

Making up the cardigan

Press each piece separately with a warm iron and damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the horses reins in black, and the sailors collar and hat band in white as shown on the diagram.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side, shoulder and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves. Sew borders to fronts.
Sew cast off edge of collar round neck edge starting and finishing at centre front edges.
Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:

Jumper:
2oz White (W)
1oz Linga Gold (L)
Oddments in Scarlet, Black, Pink, and Light Grey.

Cardigan:
3oz white
2oz gold
Oddments in scarlet, black, pink, royal blue, yellow, and tan.
8 buttons.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.
1 "medium" crochet hook.

Tension

36sts and 48 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

Instructions for 3-4 years.
Chest 23 inches; length 13 inches; sleeve seam: 2¾ inches (jumper) or 10 inches (cardigan).

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Instructions are given for 3 sizes.
Carry wool loosely behind slip stitches in pattern to keep even tension and elasticity.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 120 / 128 / 132 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1 / p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [121 / 129 / 133 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl). Leave yarn M hanging and join in turquoise yarn (T).

1st row (right side facing): in T, k1, * slip 3 purlwise, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: in T, p2, * sl1 purlwise, p3; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p2.
3rd row: knit in T.
4th row: purl in T.
Leave T wool hanging; join in white yarn (W).
5th-8th rows: as 1st to 4th rows in W.
Leave W wool hanging.
9th-12th rows: as 1st to 4th rows in teal blue colour (M).

These 12 rows form pattern. **

Carrying wools loosely up the side of the work, continue in pattern and work straight until back measures 16 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 91 / 95 / 99 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 24 / 24½ / 25 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 7 / 7 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, then 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 37 / 39 / 41 stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Continue in straight in pattern until front measures 9 inches at centre.

Here divide for front opening:

Next row: right side facing, pattern 54 / 58 / 60, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work straight until front measures the same as the back at the side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole and neck edge as follows:

Next row: cast off 6 / 7 / 8, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: work in pattern.

Now continue to shape armhole edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 8 / 9 / 8 alternate rows, and at the same time shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the 5th row, then at this edge on every following 6th row.

When the armhole shapings are done, keep this edge straight but continue to decrease at the neck edge on every 6th row as before until 27 / 28 / 29 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 7 / 7 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder. Cast off the centre 13 stitches, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 52 / 56 / 60 stitches, and work 2 inches twisted k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
[53 / 57 / 61 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl). Leave yarn M hanging, join in turquoise yarn (T), and work 12 rows in pattern as for back.
Continue in pattern and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 87 / 91 / 95 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18 inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 37 / 37 / 37 stitches remain.
Next row (should be a wrong side row): in pattern.

Now (right side facing) cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and 4 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 19 stitches.

Front Border

Join shoulder seams.
Using No 10 needles and M wool, cast on 20 stitches and work 1 inch in twisted k1/p1 rib.

Make a buttonhole in next 2 rows thus:
Next row: rib 7, cast off 6, rib to end.
Next row: work back in rib, casting on 6 over those cast off.
Continue in rib, working a further 2 buttonholes as before at 3-inch intervals.
Work straight until border fits up right front, round back of neck and down left front when slightly stretched; sew in position as you go along.
Cast off in rib.

Collar

Begin by winding off a small ball each of M and T yarns.
Using No 10 needles and M yarn, cast on 196 stitches, and work 6 rows in twisted rib.
Next row: rib 10 M, join in main ball of T and knit to the last 10 stitches in T, join in 2nd ball of M, and rib 10 in M.
Editors note: You are using an intarsia technique here, where the colour changes are joined vertically, so make sure you wind the threads around each other when you start a new colour, to avoid holes.

Next row: rib 10 M, rib 176 in T, rib 10 M.
Repeat the last row 4 times more.
Next row: rib 10 M., rib 10 T, join in W and knit to the last 20 stitches in W; join in 2nd small ball of T, rib 10 T, rib 10 M.
Next row: rib 10 M, rib 10 T, rib 156 W, rib 10 T, rib 10 M.
Repeat the last row until work measures 6 inches.

In rib and using appropriate colours, cast off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.

Join side and sleeve seams ; insert sleeves.
Sew lower edges of front border neatly in position to main work, right edge over left.
Pin cast off edge of collar in position on wrong side of work on seam of ribbed border and main part, making sure ends are level on fronts.
Sew in position.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
11 / 11 / 12 x 1oz balls in main shade (M), teal blue;
7 / 8 / 8 oz in gay turquoise (T);
4 / 5 / 5 oz in snow white (W).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

3 large buttons.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 24½ / 25 / 25½ inches;
sleeve seam:
18 / 18 / 18 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
M: main teal blue
T: turquoise
W: white

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

**
With No 10 needles cast on 100 / 106 / 110 stitches, and work 2 inches in k1 / p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row on 2nd and 3rd sizes. [10 / 107 / 111 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl), and work straight until back measures 15 inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then k2tog at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 76 / 79 / 83 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 19 / 19½ / 20 inches at centre.

With right side facing, divide for back opening:

Next row: right side facing, pattern 38 / 39 / 41, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work straight until back measures 22½ / 23 / 23½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Purl 1 row and leave remaining 15 / 15 / 16 stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder. For 2nd and 3rd sizes only, cast off the centre stitch, then knit to end for all sizes. [38 / 39 / 41 sts]
Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Continue in straight in pattern until front measures 21 / 21½ / 22 inches at centre.

With right side facing divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 30 / 31 / 32, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Then with wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row; then decrease 1 stitch at this (neck) edge on the following 3 rows. [23 / 24 / 25 sts]

Work a few rows straight until front measures the same as the back at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 6 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then cast off the remaining 5 / 6 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, slip the centre 16 / 17 / 18 stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder, rejoin the wool to the remaining 30 / 31 / 32 stitches on the spare needle or stitch holder, and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 10 needles, cast on 62 / 66 / 70 stitches, and work 1 inch in twisted k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 stitches evenly across the last row.
[64 / 68 / 72 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, then 1 row purl), and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 70 / 74 / 78 stitches.

Work a few rows until until sleeve measures 3½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 / 6 / 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 / 34 / 34 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.

Now (right side facing) cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and 4 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 16 stitches.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Neckband:
With right side facing, and No 10 needles, knit across 15 / 15 / 16 stitches from back neck, pick up and knit 20 stitches down left side of neck, knit 16 / 17 / 18 stitches from centre front, and pick up and knit 20 stitches up right side of neck. Then knit across the 15 / 15 / 16 stitches at the back neck. [86 / 87 / 91 sts].
Work 1½ inches in twisted k1/p1 rib stitch; cast off in rib.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew zip into position at the back.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
12 / 13 / 14 oz in snow white

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

6 inch zip.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-40 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 23 / 23½ / 24 inches;
sleeve seam: 3½ inches, all sizes

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions are (unusually for this era) given for only one medium/small size.
This is originally a French pattern, and before you begin, I recommend you read through the instructions thoroughly, and refer to the photographs, in order to understand how the pattern progresses.

Vertical cable stitch:

Editors note: You begin working the diagonal pattern, and then gradually move to this vertical cable. So these instructions are incorporated into the diagonal pattern below.

Made over 4 stitches in stocking stitch:
On every 6th row, make a cable by slipping the first 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work, knitting the next 2 stitches, then knitting the 2 stitches from cable needle.

Diagonal pattern stitch:

1st row: Cast on 1 stitch, (edge stitch) then, * p6, k1, increase 1 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6.
Cast cast on 1 stitch (edge stitch)
2nd and every even numbered row: k1, (edge stitch); purl to the last stitch, k1, (edge stitch).
3rd row: k1, (edge stitch); * p5, slip the next 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work: knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k1 (edge stitch).
5th row: knit twice into the first stitch, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, knit twice into the last stitch.
7th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p4, k1, p3, k1.
9th row: k1, p3, * Cross the Cable by slipping 3 stitches on to the cable needle, place to the back of the work, k2, then k2, p1 from cable needle; p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k2, p3, k1.
11th row: k1, p2, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k3, p3, k1.
13th row: k1, p1, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k4, p3, k1.
15th row: k1, * Cross the Cable as in the 9th row, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p5, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
17th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k3, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k4, p3, k1.
19th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k2, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p7, k4, p3, k1.
21st row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k1, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross the Cable as in the 9th row *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p8, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
23rd row: k1, p5, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p9, k4, p3, k1.
25th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending after the last oblique cable with p4, k1, p5, k4, p3, k1. This marks the beginning of a new vertical cable at 5 stitches from the first vertical cable as on the 7th row. Continue thus, forming new vertical cables in the same way as the work proceeds, with the oblique cables petering out at the right side edge.