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Archive entry for May 2013

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May 2013

Mock Cable Cardigan

MockCableMay1957.jpg

Doesn't this picture have a wonderful fresh spring feel? As if summer is just around the corner. It looks just right with a summer dress, to fling casually over the shoulders for those cooler English summer breezes - or for a more formal look - buttoned up with a scarf plus a narrow tweed skirt (and possibly gloves!) to complete the outfit (see photo at the end).
This design has been calling to me for quite some time but as usual I have yet to find the time to try it out. So here it is untested.
"raglan armholes and and firm ribbed bands for this useful cardigan in white to go with everything"

Instructions.

Figures in bold blue given in brackets, refer to the larger size; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Back

With No 13 needles cast on 123 (133) stitches and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, starting the first row, k1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern thus:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p2; repeat from * to last stitch 3 sts, k3.
3rd row: * p3, k2tog, but do not slip these stitches off the needle, now knit into 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
4th row: as 2nd row

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 12½ (13) inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 103 (113) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulders as follows:
Cast off 3 (4) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, and 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off remaining 43 stitches.

Left Front

Left. With No 13 needles, cast on 58 (63) sts and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back. Work straight until front matches back at side edge up to the armholes.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every following alternate row until 48 (53) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½)inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulder and neck edge as follows:

Next row (armhole edge): cast off 3 (4) stitches; pattern to end.
Next row (neck edge): cast off 3 (3) stitches; pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 15 (15) rows, and at the same time shape at the shoulder edge by casting off 3 (4) stitches; at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, then 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 13 needles, cast on 59 (59) sts, and work 2½ inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 4sts evenly across on last row. [63 (63) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row, until there are 97 (97) sts, taking the eextra stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 16 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

**
Next row: p3 slip1, k1, psso; pattern to the last 5 sts, k2tog, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
Next row: p3, k1, pattern to the last 4 sts, k1, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
**

Repeat from ** to ** 3(5) times more: [85 (81) sts]
Now continue to decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 border stitches, as before, at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5(5) stitches remain.
Knit back.

Next row(right side facing): p2, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p1, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p3tog.
Fasten off.

Front Borders and Neckband

Pin sleeves into armholes - top of sleeve fits right across shoulders to neck edge. Sew carefully in position.

Front Borders: With No 13 needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a strip in k1/p1 rib to go up right front, round back of neck, and down left front.
Make 8 buttonholes up right front - first one to come ½ inch from lower edge, 8th about ½ inch below neck shaping, and remainder to be evenly spaced between.
To make a buttonhole: With right side facing, rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5, turn; rib 5. cast on 3, rib 5.

Sew border strip in position as you go along.
To turn corner at start of neck shaping on right front, work as follows: with right side facing, rib to last 3 sts., turn, rib back;
rib to last 6 stitches, turn, rib back;
rib to last 9 stitches, turn, rib back.
[Editor's note: You are working short rows to curve the knitting.]
Continue straight in rib over all stitches to start of neck shaping on left front, and then, with right side facing, turn corner in the same way.
Continue in rib until strip fits down left front.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts only very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.
Press all side seams.

Materials

14 (15) ozs. Patons Quickerknit Botany Patonised in white.

A pair each of Nos
13 (2¼mm) and 9 (3¾mm) "Beehive" needles.

8 white pearl buttons.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 26sts x 34 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 2 sizes to fit bust:
33-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of shoulders, 22 (22½) ins; and sleeve seam, 16 (16) inches.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase. Using a DK yarn with 4mm needles might increase the size to a range of 39-44 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Yarns called "quick knit" "quickerknit" and such variations evolved as a compromise for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply.

These days, there are quite a few yarns that might have a suitably similar tension as "light weight" double knits.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino ( 125m per 50g ball) is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge. If I were going to knit this cardigan, this is what I would use.

BUT - how much you might need is open to question. Most of the baby quick-knits were blended or completely synthetic and thus probably had a better yardage than pure wools. The name of the original yarn "Botany" implies it might have been a pure wool but who knows what "Patonised" implied and I have no idea of the yardage.
15oz is about 420g - so 9 x 50g balls sounds plausible for a medium sized cardigan with a textured stitch - but better to buy too much than too little.

The French manufacturer Phildar has traditionally offered ranges in this kind of yarn weight, but in practical wool/synthetic blends, currently for example: Laine Merino Alpaga, Phildar Partner 3.5, Fil Oxygene - all coming in at around 110-130m per 50g equivalent.

Bergere de France is a manufacturer whose yarns I know little of but they seem to have at least two suitable offerings eg: Annecy, Coton Fifty.

It was a bit of a surprise to me to find that I can't find much in the way of baby yarns with this designation any more.
Patons Quickerknit Baby is no more - though they currently produce Patons Beehive Baby Sport, which seems to be a kind of equivalent; Sirdar Snuggly Quick Knit is discontinued - relatively recently it seems. Both the above are acrylic and nylon mixes with a yardage of about 180m to 50g.

MockCable-2a.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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