Instructions
Sweater Back and Front alike:
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 11 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 10 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row. *
Change to No 9 needles, join in C, and work the pattern from the chart.
Work the odd rows as knit, reading the chart from right to left, and repeating
the 12 stitches before the dotted line to the last stitch, then k1 stitch
beyond the dotted line. Work the even rows as purl, reading the chart
from left to right, purling the first stitch (before dotted line), and
then repeating the 12 stitches beyond dotted line to end.
Continue until 3 complete patterns have been worked (or until work measures
16 inches from hemline), ending with a purl row.
Break off C.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch with MC.
Shoulder Shaping: Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the
next 6 rows. Purl 1 row (hemline). Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, beginning
with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row. Cast
off.
Sleeves:
With No 10 needles and MC cast on 49 stitches.
Work as back to *.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for the back, increase 1 stitch
at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there
are 61 stitches
Continue until the 26th row of the 2nd pattern has been worked (or until
the sleeve measures 10 inches from the hemline).
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.
Trousers Right Leg:
Beginning at the ankle, with No 10 needles, and MC cast on 76 stitches.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch knit 1 row (hemline).
Change to No 9 needles and continue in stocking stitch until leg
measures 15 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.
Continue straight, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate
row until there are 88 stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Mark each end of last row for the top of the leg.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row
until 68 stitches remain. Continue until work measures 24½ inches
from hemline *, ending with a knit
row. **
Shape back by working short rows thus:
Purl 12; turn, knit to end.
Purl 24; turn, knit to end.
Purl 36; turn, knit to end.
Purl 48; turn, knit to end.
Next row: Purl across all stitches.
Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.
Trousers Left Leg:
Work as right leg to *, ending with
a purl row.
Complete as right leg from ** but
working knit instead of purl, and purl
instead of knit.
Hat:
With No 10 needles and MC cast on 97 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row p1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back of sweater until one complete
pattern from the chart has been worked (or until work measures 5½ inches),
ending with a purl row.
Break off C and continue with MC only.
Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of 1st
row. [96 sts].
Shape top thus:
Next row: (k2tog, k6); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k5); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k4); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 24 stitches
remain. Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog); repeat to end.
[12 sts]
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten
off securely.
Mitts (make 2 alike):
With No 10 needles and MC cast on 39 stitches.
Work 2 inches rib as beginning of hat.
Change to No 9 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch.
Shape Thumb thus:
Next row: k19, pick up loop that lies
before next stitch and knit it through back loop (referred to as make
1), k1, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k19, m1, k3, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Continue to increase in this way, working 2 stitches more between the
increases on every alternate row until there are 51 stitches
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k32; turn and cast on 1
stitch.
Next row: p14; turn and cast on 1
stitch.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch on these 15 stitches
Next row: (k2tog, k 1) 5 times.
Next row: (p2tog) 5 times.
Break off wool, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and
fasten off securely.
Join thumb seam.
With right side facing and 32 stitches on right hand needle, rejoin
yarn at the base of the thumb; pick up and knit 2 stitches at the base
of thumb, knit the 6 stitches to the end of the row end. [40 sts].
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch on these stitches, ending with a purl
row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k14, k2togtbl,
k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k12, k2togtbl,
k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: ( k2tog) across row to end.
Cast off.
To Make Up
Press or block work.
Sweater: Join shoulder and neck facing seams.
Sew top of sleeves to sides, beginning and ending 5 inches from shoulder
seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn in hems and catch-stitch in place.
Trousers: Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up hems and catch-stitch in place.
Join elastic in ring and attach to wrong side of waist with herringbone
casing.
Hat: Join seam.
Make pompon and sew on top.
Mitts: Join seam.
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Materials
Worked in a standard double knitting yarn (swatch as per tension given).
Sweater:
6 oz main colour, and 4 oz contrast.
Hat:
2 oz main colour, and 1 oz contrast.
Trousers:
9 oz main colour.
Mitts:
2 oz main colour.
Pair each of No 9 (3¾mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.
Waist length of elastic.
Tension
26sts to 4 inches over fair-isle, 24sts over stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.
Size matters
Sweater:
To fit 24 inch chest; length 16½ inches; sleeve: 10 inches.
Trousers:
Width around widest part 26 inches;
leg length 16½ inches.
Abbreviations
k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease
one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")
MC = main colour
C = contrast
Disclaimer
(well...almost)
In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced,
in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please
and I will try and assist.
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