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Archive entry for June 2023

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June 2023

Cap-sleeve summer top

CapSleeveSummerTop.jpg

An understated casual top for summer from the 1950s. "Suits all sizes" - but only up to a 38 inch chest!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

Back

**
With No 13 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 114 (122 : 130) stitches and work 4 inches in k1/p1 rib, working into the backs of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted effect.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 15th and every following 6th row until there are 132 (140 : 148) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 11½ (12 : 12) inches, ending with a purl row.
**

Here shape the underarm by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 8 knit rows: [148 (156 : 164) sts]
Work straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ ( : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off he remaining 40 (40 : 44) stitches fairly loosely.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** : [132 (140 : 148) sts]
Continue straight until front measures 11½ inches from purl ridge.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k55 (59 : 63), turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for the first shoulder, increasing at the underarm at the beginning of the next 7 knit rows: [64 (68 : 72) sts].
Purl back.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping neck edge by knitting 2 stitches together at the end of the next and every following 6th row 10 (10 : 12) times in all. Work a few rows straight until sleeve edge measures 6½ ( : 7) inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 4 (8 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 10 (10 : 10) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows at the armhole edge

With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches, slip the centre 20 (20 : 20) stitches on a spare needle, knit to the last stitch, increase in the last stitch.
Work the right side to correspond with the left.

Collar

For all sizes: Join shoulder seams.

Right half: With No 11 needles k20 from spare needle at the front, increasing 1 stitch in the centre to 21 stitches, and work in moss stitch as follows:

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Next row: k2, (purl into the front then knit into the back of the next stitch), moss stitch to end.
Continue in moss stitch, increasing 1 stitch inside the 2 border stitches on the next 5 rows: [37 sts]
Continue in moss stitch,keeping garter stitch border as before, until piece fits up right side of neck to shoulder, then round to centre back of neck.
Cast off in moss.

Left half: With No 11 needles, cast on 21 stitches.

1st row: k1, (p1, k1) 9 times, k2.
2nd row: k2, (k1, p1) 9 times, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more, then finish to correspond with right half.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing. With right side facing and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 124 (124 : 128) stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Press facing.
Join side and underarm seams.
Turn facing to wrong side and slip-hem all round.
Join collar neatly at back of neck with a flat seam.
Sew cast-on stitches for left side of collar at back of right border at start of neck; pin centre of collar to centre back of neck, then sew neatly in position all round.
Press seams.


A Word on the Wool

3 ply weight might be a bit hard to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet, I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Susan Crawford offers a lovely range of bright colours in Fenella which is designed for use with 3 ply vintage patterns.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Materials

6 (6 : 7) ozs 3 ply crepe in "Flamingo"

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36 : 37-38) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 20 (20½ : 21) inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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