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Archive entry for June 2015

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June 2015

Holiday Jumper!


Very simple to knit, this open-air jumper, since the pattern is rib, broken by plain and purl rows at intervals. The attractive collar is just two triangular pieces knotted together at the centre front and centre back.

"A nicely casual affair with short sleeves and a scarf collar"


The overall pattern stitch as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit.
2nd row: k1, p1 rib
3rd row: k1, p1 rib
4th row: Purl
5th - 18th row: k1, p1 rib

[Editor's note: The ribbed stitch will have the effect of making the fabric pull in slightly.]


With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 120 stitches. Work 1½ inches in k1, p1 rib, then start pattern as given above.
On the 5th row change to No 10 needles; on the 11th row change to No 9 needles.

After completing first pattern (18 rows), increase once at each end of
every 7th row 9 times, making 138 stitches on the needle.

Continue straight on these sts until you have completed the 6th pattern from commencement (work should measure about 13 inches).

Armhole shapings:
Decrease at the beginning and end of every alternate row for the next 16 rows (that is, 8 decreased each side); then decrease at the beginning and end of every row until 30 sts remain.

Cast off.


With blue wool and No 12 needles, cast on 130 stitches.

Work exactly as for the back up to the armhole (148 stitches on the needles).
Cast off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease at each end of every alternate row 4 times (altogether 10 decreased each side).

Divide for neck-opening:

With right side facing, work 64, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continuing in the pattern on the 64 stitches, decrease at shoulder end on every row and at the same time at the neck end on every 3rd row until all are gone; fasten off.
Rejoin wool at the centre, and work the opposite shoulder side to correspond.


With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 72 stitches.

Work 1¼ inches in k1, p1 rib, then work in pattern, increasing at each end of every 3rd row, and during the first pattern changing to No 10 needles on the 5th row, and to No 9 needles on the 11th row.

When you have completed 2 whole patterns and 4 rows of the 3rd pattern (98 stitches on needle) shape for shoulder as follows:

Work in pattern to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches,
Continue thus, keeping continuity of pattern, until you have "turned" 8 times each end, each "turn" being 4 stitches before the previous one that side.
Work right to end of last row, knitting across the slipped stitches.

[Editor's note: You are working short rows here to provide shaping. When you slip the stitches and then pick them up again you can get small holes or discontinuities. You can live with these as part of the pattern (in this design they may well be hidden by the collar) or you can read more about short rows and wrapping stitches >>HERE<<.]

Cast off loosely 18 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every alternate row until 24 sts remain.
Cast off.

Work second sleeve in same way.


The collar is made up of two triangular pieces, knotted at the centre back and centre front.

Using blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 94 stitches.

Work 7 rows in k1, p1, rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row.

Changing to white wool, knit the next row plain, decreasing to 72 sts by knitting together every 4th and 5th stitches.

Continue in stocking stitch for 24 rows, decreasing on every alternate row at the opposite edge to the previous decreasings.
Purl next row.
This is the "ear" that is knotted in front.

Now start the edge that is stitched to the neck.
Cast off 10 stitches at shaped end, then decrease at this edge on every alternate row until 10 sts remain, keeping the other side straight.
Now decrease at same edge on every row until no sts remain.

With blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 108 stitches.
Work 7 rows in k1, p1 rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row; cast off.

Sew this blue strip along the straight edge of the white triangle, mitreing the decreased end carefully with the decreased end of the blue ribbing with which triangle was begun.

Repeat this triangle with colours reversed, and with shapings at opposite ends.

Making Up

Press only very lightly.
Sew up side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, taking care that the ridge rows of pattern meet at each shoulder seam.
Stitch each half of the collar half round the neck of jumper; knot the "ears" front and back, and stitch.


Beehive Fingering, 2 ply - original uses 4 oz in blue, and 1 oz in white.

One pair each No 12 (2¾mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.


36 sts to 4 inches, measured over unstretched rib on No 9 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 32-34 inches; length 18½ inches;
sleeve seam, 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is given as "2 ply" which it probably literally was; however the tension is more like a 3 or 4 ply yarn weight.

I would substitute with a 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).


In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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