Pattern of the Month

Instructions:

The pullover is worked sideways using the Fair-Isle technique. Strand the wools not in use loosely across the back of the work.

Back

Begin at the left side edge. Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade natural yarn cast on 84 stitches.
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across.

When the 10th row of the chart has been completed, continue in pattern, working armhole increasings as shown on the chart, and keeping the extra stitches in pattern as indicated.
At the beginning of the 24th row, cast on 50 stitches to complete the armhole. [147 sts]

Continue in pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the shoulder edge at the end of the 29th, 37th, 45th, and 53rd rows as indicated. [151 sts]
Work straight until the 78th row of the chart has been completed.
This brings you to the centre back.

For the second half of the back, work down from top of chart, that is: 77th, 76th, 75th, 74th rows, etc, still reading from right to left on knit rows and left to right on purl rows.
Remember on this half of the back to decrease 1 stitch at the shoulder edge on the 53rd, 45th, 37th and 29th rows, and to cast off 50 stitches at the beginning of the 24th row for the armhole, then to decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 84 stitches remain.

Work straight to the end of the chart, then purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Front

Begin at the right side and work exactly as for the first half of the back until the 57th row has been completed. [151 sts].

Divide for neck opening:
58th row: Cast off 15, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 9 purl rows as indicated on the chart. [91 sts]
Work 2 rows straight to the end of the 78th row of the chart.

For the second half of the front, work down from the top of the chart as before, casting on stitches at the neck edge to correspond with those cast off on the first half, and decreasing at the shoulder and armhole edges as indicated.

When the chart is complete, purl 1 row in natural.
Cast off.

Ribbed welt

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 140 stitches along the lower edge of the back.
Work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib: cast off in rib.

Work the front welt in the same way.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, beginning at the centre back, pick up and knit 88 stitches to centre front.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the centre front on alternate rows; cast off in rib.

Work the other half to correspond.

Armhole bands

With the right side of the work facing, using No 12 needles and main shade natural, pick up and knit 160 stitches round each armhole.

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts well under a damp cloth.
Join side seams.
Join neck ribbing at centre back and front.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 x 1oz balls of 4 ply fingering in main shade (natural), plus 1 oz each in 6 contrast colours: brown, yellow, blue, rust, emerald, white.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 39-41 inches.
Length: 23 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

For a pdf version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

Instructions.

Instructions for the larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.
Note that the two different sizes are achieved by using different needles sizes as well as different numbers of stitches.

Front

With No 13 (12) needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 18 times, then repeat the 1st row again.
40th row: p2tog, purl to end.

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows 7 times more. (80 rows).

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [98 sts]

7th row: As 7th pattern row.
Work the next 3 rows as 8th. 9th and 10th pattern rows to complete one pattern.
Work 4 more complete patterns of 10 rows each.

Shape Neck:
51st row: Work 38 stitches as 1st pattern row, ending k4, wo, k1.

Cast off 22 stitches, (1 stitch on the right-hand needle), pattern 37 stitches.
Work on this 2nd set of 38 stitches for right shoulder.

52nd row: purl 38 stitches.
53rd row: cast off 3 stitches, work in pattern to end.
54th row: purl 35 stitches.
55th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
56th row: purl 33 stitches.
57th row: cast off 2 stitches, work in pattern to end.
58th row: purl 31 stitches.
59th row: k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Keeping the pattern correct, work 10 rows on 30 stitches.

70th row: cast off 10 stitches; purl to end.
71st row: Work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: cast off 10 stitches, purl to end.
73rd row: As 71st row.
Cast off.

Left shoulder:
Join wool to neck edge of the remaining 38 stitches, and work to match the right shoulder.

Back

Work to match the front until 5 complete patterns have been worked from the beginning of the armhole shaping.

Divide for Back Opening:

51st row: work 49 stitches in pattern. Turn.
52nd row: increase into 1st stitch; purl to end.
Continue in pattern on these 50 stitches until 2 patterns are completed.

Shape Shoulder:
71st row: cast off 10 stitches, then work in pattern of 9th pattern row.
72nd row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Left Shoulder:
Cast on 3 stitches and join to centre back.
Work to match right shoulder, keeping the 3 extra stitches for underflap in garter stitch, and casting off 22 stitches for neck.

Sleeves:

With No. 13, (12) needles. cast on 87 stitches.
1st row: p3, * k3, p3; repeat from * to end.
Work in this rib for 8 more rows.

10th row: p3, * increase into next stitch, p8; repeat from to last 4 stitches, increase into next stitch, p3. [98 sts]

Change to No 11 (10) needles and pattern.
Work 3, (2) complete patterns.
If sleeve is wanted longer for larger size, then work a further complete pattern.

Shape Top:
Cast off 5 stitches twice, and then 4 stitches twice at the beginning of the next 4 rows, [80 sts]
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 44 stitches remain.
Purl one row (40 rows from the beginning of the shaping).
Now cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. (32 stitches remain).
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 20 stitches.

Neck Band

Back-stitch shoulder seams very neatly.
With No 13 (12) needles and right side of work facing, pick up and
knit 120 stitches evenly round neck.
Work in rib of k3, p3, for 9 rows.
Cast off in rib, using a No 11 (10) needle.

Making Up

Seam-stitch side and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves and back-stitch.
Catch down underflap.
Work a row of chain stitch down right side of back opening. turn and
make 4 buttonholes in chain stitch.

Make 4 buttons follows:
Make 8 chain and join in a circle. Work 6 dc into this circle. Work a second round of 6 dc then a round of 4 dc. Break off thread and pull through loop to secure. Stuff with a very small quantity of cotton wool and draw up tight.
Sew on buttons to match.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 (4) ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 13 or (2¼mm), and No 11 (3mm) needles for smaller size.

Pairs of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles for larger size.

A medium crochet hook.

Tension

7½ (7) sts x 10½ (10) rows to 1 inch on No 11 (10) needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34 (36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19) inches; side seam 12 (13) inches; sleeve seam 3½ (4) inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

dc: double crochet (that is English double crochet or US single crochet).

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

This jumper with the low neck is given only in one size.

Front

With No. 10 needles, cast on 123 stitches.

1st row: p3, * k3, p3, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k3, * p3, k3, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: As the 1st row.
4th row: k2tog, rib in pattern to end.

Change to pattern as follows:
[Editor's note: This pattern is the same as for thejumper with the high neck.]

1st row: k1, * k1, wo, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k4, wo; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, * wo, k3, sl1, k2tog. psso, k3, wo, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2, instead of k3.
5th row: k1, k2tog, * wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k1, wo, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to the last 11 stitches; wo, k1, wo, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2, wo, k3.
7th row: k1, * wo, sl1, k1, psso, k2, wo, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, wo, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: k2, * wo, sl1, k2tog , psso, wo, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Purl.
These 10 rows form the pattern and are repeated throughout.

Repeat the 10 pattern rows twice more. (3 complete patterns of 10 rows each).

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows.
[Editor's note: This is to make the shaping for the waist.]

Change back to No 10 needles and work 70 rows.

Shape Armhole:
Note: Great care must be taken to keep the pattern correct when decreasing for shaping. An increase must always be made to balance a decrease in the pattern even if it comes immediately after the cast off stitches.

Cast off 12 stitches. With 1 stitch on the right-hand needle, work as 1st pattern row to the last 12 stitches.
Cast off 12 stitches. Fasten off and break wool.

Cast on 24 stitches. Join to work. Purl 98 stitches, and cast on 24 stitches at the end of the row.
3rd row: k24 stitches and work as 3rd row of pattern to last 24 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: Purl 146 stitches.
5th row: As 5th pattern row.
Work 5 rows to complete the pattern, then work 30 rows.
(4 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping).

Neck Shaping:
1st row: Work 62 stitches as 1st pattern row.
Cast off 22 stitches.
Work on this last set of 62 stitches for right side of neck as follows:
With 1 stitch already on the right-hand needle, work as from * of 1st pattern row to end.
2nd and each alternate row: purl.
3rd row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows.
9th row: Keeping pattern correct, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of this and the following alternate row.
12th row: Purl 38 stitches.
Work 8 rows to complete 6 complete patterns from the beginning of the armhole shaping, then work the first 5 rows to start the 7th pattern repeat.

Shape Shoulder:
(6th pattern row). Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 26 stitches in pattern as for 7th pattern row.
Next row: Cast off 12 stitches; purl to end.
Next row: Work 14 stitches in pattern as for 9th pattern row.
Cast off 14 stitches.

Left Side of Neck:
Join wool to neck edge of remaining 62 stitches.

Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of this and the 2 following alternate rows, then cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the 2 following alternate rows.
Work one complete pattern of 10 rows On these 38 stitches, then work 6 rows of 7th pattern from the beginning of the of armhole shaping.

Shape Shoulder as for right side of neck, beginning with a 7th pattern row.

Neck

With No 10 needles and right side of work facing, pick up and knit 98 stitches all round neck.

Purl 1 row.
Next row: As 9th pattern row.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more.

Change to No 12 needles.
Next row: P2tog, purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog. [96 sts]
Next row: k3, p3; repeat to end.
Work 4 rows in this k3/p3 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib, using the wool doubled.
[Editor's note: This make the edge stronger.]

Back

Work to match the front exactly.

Making Up

Run a thread along each of the cast on 24 stitches and gather to fit the 12 cast off stitches. Sew together very neatly on the wrong side.
Seam-stitch side seams, matching pattern exactly, and seam-stitch the neck on each shoulder.

Lay on a blanket or well padded board and press lightly on wrong side with a hot iron and damp cloth, omitting all ribbing.
Be careful not to over press or the raised pattern will be flattened and the lacy appearance lost.

Materials

3 ozs 2 ply.

Pairs of No 10 or (3¼mm), and No 12 (2¾mm) needles for smaller size.

Tension

7 sts x 10 rows to 1 inch on No 10 needles, measured over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 34-36 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

wo: wool over - bring the yarn over the needle so that when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool.

"2 ply" yarn is a very fine yarn equivalent to some kind of laceweight today - hence the very good yardage, needing only 3 ounces (84g).

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that might be suitable but the actual required yardage in any substitute can only be estimated.

The original yarn was "Golden Eagle Polynit" 2ply. In 2012 Susan Crawford found some vintage Polynit (3ply not 2ply) at Woolfest on Eliza's stand (I also love her stand) and although the name implies otherwise it is actually pure wool. Susan was pleased with the colour matching of her Excelana brand with these original wools - as I would have been in her shoes.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions for one size.
The pattern stitches are given below.
Try out a piece of the pattern for practice by casting on 24 stitches.

Pattern:

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl.
2nd row: * k2, p4, k1, p4; repeat from * ending row k2.
3rd row: p2, * k4, p1, k4, p2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: k1, * twist A, p3, k1, p3, twist B; repeat from *, ending k1.
5th row: p3, * k3, p1, k3, p4; repeat from * all along, ending p3.
6th row: * k2, twist A, p2, k1, p2, twist B; repeat from * ending k2.
7th row: p4, * k2, p1, k2, ending p6; repeat from *, ending row p4.
8th row: k3, * twist A, p1, k1, p1, twist B, k. 4; repeat from *, ending k3.
9th row: p5, * k1, p1, k1, p8; repeat from *, ending p5.
10th row: k4, * twist A, k1, twist B, k6, repeat from *, ending k4.
Change to white yarn.
11th row: purl.
12th row: knit.

Repeat these 12 rows throughout.

Back

The bolero is knitted sideways.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 90 stitches and work 5 rows of the pattern.

Now increase at the beginning of the next and end of every following row at this side until there are 108 stitches, and 23 rows are done.
On to the end of this row cast on 37 stitches to complete the armhole shaping.

Work straight until 2 more complete patterns are done, and then work 1 row of the next pattern, which brings you back to the top of the shoulder.
Cast off 16 stitches for the back neck insert (to be knitted later).
Finish this pattern and work 5 more patterns, and then 9 rows of 6th.

At the beginning of the 10th row cast on 16 stitches, and then finish the shoulder to correspond with first side, casting off 37 for the armhole and decreasing on every row thereafter until 90 stitches remain.

Finish off with 5 rows straight.

There are 15 patterns in total across the back, omitting the last 2-row white stripe.

Left front

Work as for back, but cast off 26 instead of 16 stitches on the shoulder.
Then work straight, finishing this pattern and 3 more, but omit the last white stripe.
Cast off.

Right front

Work to correspond with left front.

[Editor's note: They are assuming rather a lot here and expect you will work this out for yourself. You could continue to work the in the same sideways direction: as you have just cast off at the centre front, so you could cast on for the right front at the centre front which would mean casting on 119 stitches - then casting on 26 at the shoulder, and completing the shaping as you did for the back.
Or,
You could work exactly as you did for the left front but reversing all the shapings - so you would be doing the armhole increasing at the end of the rows and you would cast on the 37 stitches at the same edge and casting off the 26 stitches at this same edge.]

Neck Ribbing

Join back and front shoulder seams.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and front of work facing, pick up and knit 80 stitches across the back of the neck. Work in k1/p1 rib, decreasing at each end of every alternate row 5 times.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and continue in rib, decreasing as before until 48 stitches remain. Cast off fairly tightly in rib.

For each front section pick up and knit 44 stitches in the same way, and decrease 5 times on alternate rows at the side edge before changing to No 12 needles. Then decrease as before until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

For each shoulder piece pick up and knit 42 stitches across each shoulder and then shape as for back, casting off the remaining 10 stitches.

[Editor's note: It may or may not be obvious here but you are knitting on the sides of a rectangle here and decreasing towards the middle; when you sew these together you will have mitred corners - you can just see this in the photograph.]

Front Borders

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a length of k1/p1 rib long enough to go up the left front.
Work a piece the same for the right front, but make 3 buttonholes: one in the 3rd row from the top, and the remaining 2 at one inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5; on the next row cast on 3 over those cast off in the previous row.

Continue strip for the length required, then cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Worked sideways in pattern.

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 13.

1st row: Pattern to end.
2nd row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
3rd row: Cast on 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times more.

10th row: As 2nd.
11th row: Cast on 17, pattern to end.
12th row: Increase in 1st stitch, pattern to end.
13th row: Pattern to last stitch, work twice into this.

Repeat 12th and 13th rows 15 times more, then the 12th row again.
There are now 84 stitches on the needle and 44 rows have been done.
Work the next 42 rows straight in pattern.

87th row: Pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
88th row: k2tog, pattern to end.

Repeat 87th and 88th rows 15 times more, then 87th row again.
119 rows have now been done, and there are 51 stitches on the needle.

120th row: k2tog, pattern to end.
121st row: Cast off 17, pattern to end.
122nd row: k2tog , pattern to end.
123rd row: Cast off 4, pattern to end.

Repeat 122nd and 123rd rows 3 times more, leaving 13 stitches on the needle.
Work 1 row in pattern; cast off.

This finishes the 11th coloured stripe.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew together side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew on buttons.
Join ribbing at corners neatly before stitching front strips to edge.

Materials

3 ply yarn: 1 oz in main shade (M) plus 1oz each in 5 different shades of the same wool, or odd balls of different colours to make up this amount.

[Editor's note: Looking at the photo and instructions, presumably one of these colours needs to be white.]

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 33-35 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 18½ inches;
sleeve seam: 5½ inches.

Abbreviations

Twist A: Knit into back of 2nd stitch on left-hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch, drop both stitches off needle together.

Twist B: Knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch on left needle, slip both off together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Materials

4 ozs mixed shades fingering, 2-ply.
Any odd balls of bright colours will do.

[Editor's note: the "2ply" is probably literally two plies but in yarn weight perhaps more like a 3 ply going by the stated tension,]

A set of four No 11 (3mm ) needles.

Instructions.

Cast on 120 stitches, 40 on each of 3 needles.
Work in rounds of stocking-stitch, changing colour, every 1½ inches.

When 6 inches are done start to decrease very gradually.
To do this knit 2 together at the end of each needle. (3 stitches decreased).
On the next decrease row knit 2 together into the backs of stitches This prevents the cap twisting always in one direction. Make these decreases about every 4 inches until there are 102 stitches left.

When cap is desired length k2tog all round, then draw wool through remaining stitches and fasten off.
For a shorter cap make decreases every 2 inches.

Finish off the end with a multicoloured wool pom-pom, but don't make
it too thick.

You may need to run thread elastic round cast-on edge to keep cap firm on the head.

Tension

8 stitches to an inch.

Size matters

Original cap is 30 inches long but you could make one 18 inches long that is perhaps more suitable for every day wear.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

Instructions:

The jersey is worked in one size - stated as a 5 year old but remembering that children now tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid blue) cast on 84 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 85 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and changing from the main mid-blue wool to the pale blue as the background colour for the motifs, work the soldier pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

When 20 rows have been completed, change back to the mid-blue main shade and work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 8 inches.

Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of he next 2 rows. Then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 65 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 13¼ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until the first 2 rows of the armhole shaping have been done. [75 sts]

Now divide for the neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 35, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then keeping the armhole edge straight, and at the same time, decreasing at the neck edge on every following 3rd row until 24 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, armhole edge.

Join the wool to the remaining stitches, at the neck edge; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first half, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid-blue) cast on 48 stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 49 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work the 20 rows from the chart as for the back.

When these are done, change back to the main mid-blue wool and continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 63 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve measures 10½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and mid-blue main shade, pick up and knit 48 stitches down left front, 1 stitch from centre, 48 stitches up right front, and 18 stitches across back of neck.

Work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib; decreasing 1 stitch either side of centre front stitch on alternate rows.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.

Materials

3 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade (mid blue) and 1 oz in paler blue. Small balls in red and navy for the soldier motifs.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

30 sts and 38 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

One size - width all round chest 25 ins.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½ ins.
Sleeve seam: 10½ inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The bag is really a free format design and quite simple to make. It's the details that can make it rather splendid.
The base is made as a reinforced cup shape (in leather or felt) with a base and short sides (border) - not so obvious but seen as blue in the picture.

Base:

[Editor's note: Since you are working to a non-specified tension, you might want to do the crochet part first and make the base to fit accordingly.]

Cut 2 circles of felt, one 8½ inches, the other 10 inches in diameter.
Cut 2 circles of cardboard, both 8½ inches in diameter.
Place both cardboard circles together on top of the large felt circle; turn felt over on to top of circle and stitch from one side to the other across centre, pulling stitches taut. Place second felt circle over this and slip-stitch in place.

Border

Cut a piece of felt 9 inches wide and 27 inches long; then a strip of cardboard 26 inches long and 4 inches wide.
Wrap felt round cardboard so as to cover both sides, oversewing the edges neatly and not touching the stiffening. Close the whole border to form a ring; place over base, and stitch firmly all round.

Crochet top

With double wool, make 140 chain and close to form a ring.

[Editor's note: Or *not* with double wool - as you prefer and depending on the thickness of the yarn you are using; in fact of you really are using scraps of different thicknesses you might use some of them double and some not. In the 1940s, sweaters were generally made in fingering (thin) yarn so the assumption would have been that this is what you would have had to work with.
Now would also be a good time to check out your tension - albeit in a free format kind of a way - does 140 chain look like it will go round your base? There is something to be said for maybe making your base after you have done the crochet top so you can make it to fit.]

1st round: Make 3 chain to form first treble, then work 1 chain, 1 treble all round, and link up with first treble.
2nd round: 3 ch, then 1 treble in 1 treble all round, linking up with first treble.

Repeat 2nd round for about 8 or 9 inches, changing colour as required.

Now start decreasing by missing a tr 4 times evenly in round.
Continue to decrease, thus every round until 100 trebles remain.

Divide the work so that you have 36 trebles for back and front with 14 at each side. Work 12 rows of trebles on each of the 36 tr.
Finish off.

Turn down each of these 2 (36 treble) top hems and slip a piece of cardboard into each to stiffen before finally stitching.

Handles

With double wool make 70 chain and join to form a circle.
Work 3 rounds of trebles and fasten off.
Make another the same, then stitch each over a circle of old lengths of wool.

[Editor's note: You are essentially using the yarn as stuffing for the handles.]

To Make Up

Stitch crochet top to edge of base on inside of it, making it very firm. Sew handles firmly to stiffened tops.

Make a length of crochet chain with a small tassel at each end to thread through open sides at each side of handle.

Adaptations

I was sufficiently smitten with this that I actually made one up for myself, with some adaptations of my own.

Firstly I did stick with the idea of using oddments I already had, but I used mostly chunky yarns so I did not have to work with the yarn doubled - which can be a bit of a nuisance when doing crochet, even though many old and new patterns seem to suggest it. As I selected my yarns based on colour, some of them were used double to achieve the thickness I wanted.

I also changed the stitch - I used a 4mm hook with my chunky yarn, and worked in double crochet (American single crochet) throughout instead of treble crochet in order to achieve a firmer fabric; trebles provide a moderately open fabric, which, even with a lining, was not the effect I wanted. If you want to do that yourself, bear in mind that working with dc is not as quick; however, I find crochet in general works up very quickly (as well as thicker) when compared with knitting.

[Editor's note: Worth noting here that although I settled on using chunky yarn, in my opinion, the original fingering (or 4 ply) yarn is about equivalent to an Aran or worsted weight yarn when used double; I say "in my opinion" as opinions do differ on this.]

For the base, I used a rather thick leather (about 2mm) which was tough to work but made up surprisingly well. I bought it from leather4craft's selection of offcuts on eBay - but it did prove fairly expensive for all that. You could use a thin leather, or PVC, or recycled leather (which I found very easy to work with in the past) in which case you can treat it much like the felt although easing it may not be quite so easy.
If you choose thick enough leather, you might want to do away with the reinforcements of the cardboard, which is what I did, but I did line the inside of the whole bag with fabric.

I made the base to be an oval shape to suit the offcut of leather I had. I just took a rectangle about 12 by 8½ inches and rounded the corners (using a dinner plate as a guide), then attached the border in that shape; about ½ inch was used all round for the overlapping seam which gave a circumference fairly close to the original 9 inch circular base.
I made my crochet ring - in chunky yarn - to fit the shape (about 125-130 chain, or about 30 inches). The flattened circular shape actually matches the flattened effect of the top fastening and handles and I had to take that into account when positioning the handle flaps, for which I made rudimentary leather handles

Materials

Oddments of wool, any shade or ply.

A medium-sized crochet hook.
Corrugated paper or cardboard for base and handles.

Felt or leather for the base.
"Felt was used for the original, but it is scarce now."
("now" being 1944)

Tension

Dependent on the yarn and hook you use.

Size matters

The base of the bag is designed to be about 8½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

I used some tough carpet wools in combination with any chunky yarns I could find in the right colours. I used a relatively smaller hook than usual for chunky in order to keep the fabric firm - and carpet-like.

I have seen some crochet work for sale at Woolfest using Herdwick wool which I liked a lot. It was similarly firm, making self- supporting small boxes. [I was less keen to try that out myself as I felt it would be quite tough on the hands.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Again the materials are designed to be "make do and mend" oddments of old pulled-back knitting wool in any ply and any shade, worked with a medium-sized crochet hook.
You also need a piece of (faux or real) leather, felt or suitable material for the backing.

Each circle is made separately:
First collect together your most disreputable ends of wool and join them, a few strands at a time, to make the foundation over which the circles are crocheted.

Now make 6 chain and join into a circle closely.
1st round: Work 12 dc into ring, working over the foundation of the old wool.
2nd and 3rd rounds: 2 dc into 1 dc all round.
Pull this foundation from time to time to see that the circle keeps its proper shape and is flat.

Break foundation and working wool and finish off neatly.

[Editor's note: The intention here is to achieve a fairly solid roundel by working your stitches over a core of old yarn - as you might do in stumpwork embroidery or making a corded buttonhole. Obviously you can do as many rounds as you like to achieve the appropriate size.]

Arrange the 15 circles for front of belt as shown in photograph, and stitch to foundation material cut to shape.
Work 4 crosses in the centre spaces.
Six circles are used to belt round the back, and these are stitched to separate circles of foundation material and then stitched together so that they overlap.
Join another 6 for the second side, then make a hook-and-eye fastening at the back.

Instructions:

The waistcoat is worked in one piece and in one size - stated as a 3 year old but remembering that children tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s. As usual, you could probably increase the size successfully by using a heavier wool and larger needles.

Back and Fronts in one

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 145 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib - rows on the right side having k1 and each end.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work in pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 24 pattern stitches 6 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Carry MS wool across on each row but join in lengths of appropriate shades (or use bobbins) for each motif: work the required number of stitches for the motif colour, drop wool, then pick it up again on the return row.

Work the 52 rows once, then, continuing to work motifs from the chart, and with right side facing, divide for armholes thus:

Next row: pattern 36, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern on these 33 stitches for the right front, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 6 rows. [27 sts]

Work straight in pattern to the end of the 34th row of the chart.

With right side facing, continue in MS only, shaping neck by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at the neck edge on the next 5 rows.
Next row: Knit.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (armhole edge).

With right side facing, join wool to the remaining stitches.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 70, turn and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 67.

Continue on these 67 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 rows.

Work straight to end of the 34th row of the chart.

Change to MS only and work 8 rows straight, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

With right side facing, join wool to last 36 stitches, armhole edge, and cast off 3, pattern to end, then work to correspond with right front.

Ribbed Front Borders

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 11 stitches and working in k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end, make a strip to go up the right front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along and leave the stitches on a safety pin at the top.

Make a similar strip for left front with the addition of 7 buttonholes, the first to come in the 3rd and 4th rows from the bottom edge, and the 7th about 1 inch from the top (allowing for 8th to be worked in the neckband later), and the remaining 5 at equal intervals.
Mark the position of the buttons with pins on right front to ensure even spacing then work holes to match.

To make a buttonhole:
Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end and then back, casting on 3 over those stitches cast off.

Neck Border

Join shoulder seams.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), rib the 11 stitches from the right front border, pick up and knit 43 stitches all round the neck, then rib the remaining 11 stitches from the left front border. [65 sts]

Work ½ inch in k1/p1 rib making the 8th buttonhole after ¼ inch has been done. Cast off in rib.

Armhole Borders

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), pick up and knit 89 stitches round each armhole.
Work ½ inch k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

2 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade and 1 oz each in emerald and scarlet.
Oddments or small balls in brown and royal blue (see photo at the end).

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

32 sts to 4 inches on No 10 (3¼mm) needles over Fair Isle pattern.

Size matters

One size - width all round under arm 22 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 12 inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

The Back with elastic casing:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: Slip 1, k1, * wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat the 3rd row 4 times.
8th row: Slip 1, k2tog, wfd;* k1, wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back; repeat from * to the last 3sts; k1, wfd k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd Row 3 times.

12th row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Cast off.

The Head Piece:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:

1st row: K2tog, knit to the last 2sts k2tog.
2nd row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until 68sts remain.
Cast off.

The Border:

Cast on 120sts.
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 11 times; the 2nd row twice; then the 1st and 2nd rows 12 times.
Cast off.

To Make Up the Stormcheater

Press each piece separately on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew the cast on edge of the back to the cast on edge of the head piece.
Commencing at this seam, sew the shaped side edges together for 14½ inches.
Fold back the cast on edge of the border to the centre (the knit row on the wrong side of the work formed by the purl row on the right side of the work); place a roll of cotton wool under this fold then sew the cast on edge to the last purl row before the knit row.
Fold back the cast off edge, pad with cotton wool to form a second roll and sew in position to correspond.
Place the open end of one padded rollover the other open end and sew both ends together.
Sew this end of the roll to the edge of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the other ends of the padded rolls in the same manner and sew to the other side of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the shaped edge of the head piece to the seam of the padded rolls.
Thread elastic through the casing on the back and sew in position at the ends.
Sew the edges of the elastic casing to the seam at the ends of the padded rolls.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 ozs 3ply wool.

One pair No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles.

9½ inches elastic.
Cotton wool for padding.

Tension

Approx. 32sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Hood Scarf:

Using the main colour wool (MC) cast on 108 sts.

1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 9 times more.

** Join in the first contrast (B) and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).

Commencing with the 3rd, row proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off contrast B.

1st row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
3rd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice.

Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures 40 inches
from the beginning, ending on the wrong side of the work.
Repeat from ** to ** 3 times.

Work 18 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.
Press on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Fold the scarf in half lengthways. Sew up the seam for 16 inches, leave 16 inches open to form the hood, sew up the remainder of the seam.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a tube which you press flat to make a double thickness scarf, and the hood is formed by leaving the tube open, so the hood is single thickness.]

Hood Border:

Work a border along one 16 inch side of the hood opening as follows:
With the wrong side of the work facing, using the Main Colour wool and commencing 2 inches from the seam, pick up and knit 108 sts. evenly along the next 12 inches (ending 2 inches from the other seam).
[Editor's note: I know - it seems like you are knitting on the wrong side - but the border is folded back - so it's all OK.]

Next row (right side): Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Join in the second contrast B and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart, proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).

Commencing with the 3rd row, proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off first contrast (B)
Next row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Proceed as follows:
Next row: Slip 1, k1, * pl, k.l, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the this row once.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up the Scarf.

Sew the ends of the scarf together on the wrong side.
Place the corners of the border to the seam and sew the edges of the border to the 2-inch openings.
Turn back the border and catch-stitch in the centre to hold the border in position.
Using a No 12 Crochet Hook and main shade with the right side of the work facing, work 1 row of double crochet evenly along the other 16 inch side of the hood opening. Using the coloured wools make a mixed fringe at the ends of the scarf.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3ply in main shade plus "medium-sized" balls in each of four contrast colours eg blue, yellow, green and pink.

One pair No 9 (3¾ mm) knitting needles.
One No. 12 (2½ mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Approx. 30sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Width round face edge is 16 inches.
Length of scarf (excluding fringe) is 48 inches.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in blackberry stitch (also known as trinity stitch) on 2 needles. The nature of this stitch means that the number of stitches can vary from row to row; this can seem a little puzzling as it means the instructions for the right and left hand gloves seem not to be symmetrical - but they should work out OK.

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

1st row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch; repeat from * to last st, k1.
3rd row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

These 4 rows form the basic pattern.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p32, k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) twice, p3tog, cast on 12 sts, turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.

Break off wool and run end through remaining sts.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

With wrong side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 22 sts, join in wool and knit up 12 sts from 12 cast-on sts at the base of the thumb; p19, k1 across remaining sts.
Commencing at 2nd row, repeat pattern on these 54 sts., until work measures 4 ins, from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p34, increase once in next stitch. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, cast on 2sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch in last row.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p14, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice,

Finish off as given for Thumb.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 2 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p5, increase in the next stitch. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) three times, p3tog, p1; cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then work exactly as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p5, k1.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; k1.
4th row: k1, p16, k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row three times, then 1st row once.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p12, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

The Frill

With wrong side of work facing, pick up 52 sts, from cast-on edge of glove. Join in wool.

1st row: k1, * k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
[Editor's note: I think they may mean garter stitch here - every row knitted.]

5th row: k1, * increase once in next st, repeat from * to last st, k1. [There should now be 52 sts. on needle].
6th row: k1, * k2, p1, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
7th row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
8th row: k1, * k2, p2, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
9th row: k1, * p2, k3, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
10th row: k1, * k2, p3, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
11th row: k1, * p2, k4, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
12th row: k1, * k2, p4, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Continue in this manner until there are 164 sts. on needle.

Next row: k1, * p2, k8, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Cast off knitways.

Left-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

Work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p31, cast on 11 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1. Turn

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Decrease and finish off as given for the Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 21 sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 11 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; p21, k1 across remaining stitches.

Continue in pattern on these 54 sts until wont measures 4 ins from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p35, cast on 5 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog, k1. Turn.

Then work exactly is given for First Finger of of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 5 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p6, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 3 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p6, k1.

Then work exactly as given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 12 (2¾ mm) needles.

Tension

3 patterns (12 sts) to 1 inch. Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5½ ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 8½ ins.

[Editor's note: 5½ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won: wool over needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

p3tog: purl 3 stitches together (decrease 2)

k1p1k1: knit and purl into front, then knit into back of next stitch (increase 2)

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in an openwork ladder stitch created by working "yarn over needle" or eyelets on every row.
It reminds me of string-vest patterns from the 1960s (very healthy) - but don't let that put you off...

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 80 sts

Work 2 rows in plain knitting.
3rd row: k1, * p1, won, k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat this row five times.
9th row: * k15, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
19th row: * k12, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
29th row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, * (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of row.
30th row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 30th row 6 times, increasing 2 sts in last row.

Repeat 3rd row thirty-two times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eleven times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) three times; k1; cast on 10 sts loosely. Turn.

Working on these 20 sts, repeat 3rd row twenty-two times (length of
Thumb and Fingers may be varied to suit individual requirements).

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k3, k2tog, k2togtbl, k3) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k2, k2tog, k2togtbl, k2) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

With right side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 25 sts, join in wool and knit up 10 sts from 10 cast-on sts at the base of the Thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1, won, k2 tog) four times, k1, across remaining 15 stitches.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k14, k2tog, k1.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern thirty times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-eight times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, k1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 14 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern eighteen times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2tog) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

Left-hand Glove:

Cast on 80 sts and work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eight times, p1, cast on 9 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) six times, k1. Turn.

Work on these 20 sts exactly as given for Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 15sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 9 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1,won, k2tog) 7 times, k1, across remaining 24 sts.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Second Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Third Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 14 sts, exactly is given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 13 (2¼ mm) needles.

Tension

10 sts to 1 inch over pattern (not stretched).
Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5 ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 9 ins.

[Editor's note: 5ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won/wfwd: wool over needle/wool forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions.

Patterns for the outfit as shown, plus the option of a skirt instead of trousers if preferred.

Beret:

With blue wool and crochet hook, make 4 ch, and join into ring with slip-stitch, then work 8 double crochet into ring.

1st Round: 2 ch, then 2 dc on each stitch (join with slip stitch to top of 2 ch at end of each round).
2nd Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first stitch, 1 dc on next, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first stitch, 1 dc on each of next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end.
4th Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first stitch, 1 dc on each of next 3 stitches, repeat from * to end.
5th Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first ch, 1 dc on each of the next 4 stitches, repeat from * to end.

Continue in this manner, working an extra stitch between increasings each time until work measures 5½ inches across at widest part (17 rounds). Now decrease thus:-

1st Round: 2 ch, * miss 1 stitch, 17 dc, repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: 2 ch, * miss 1 stitch, 16 dc, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: 2 ch, * miss 1 stitch, 15 dc, repeat from * to end. Continue thus, decreasing 1 stitch in each section in every row, until 7 stitches remain.
Next Round: 1 dc on each stitch all round. Fasten off.

Jumper:

FRONT: With white wool and No 12 needles, cast on 36 stitches and work ½ inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and continue in stocking-stitch until work measures 2 inches. Shape armholes by casting off 2 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next 2 rows.
Work straight until piece measures 3½ inches, then shape neck.
Next Row: k11, cast off 6 loosely, knit to end. Continue on last 11 stitches only, decreasing at neck edge on every row until 7 remain.
Work 4 rows straight, then cast off.
Work the other 11 stitches to correspond reversing the shaping.

BACK: Work exactly as for front to completion of armhole shapings, then continue straight until length equals that of front to shoulders. Cast off straight across.

SLEEVES: With blue wool and No 12 needles, cast on 22 stitches and work ½ inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and white wool, and continue in stocking stitch, increasing at each end of 5th and every following 6th row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Work straight until sleeve measures 3½ inches, then shape the top by casting off 3 at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 16 remain. Cast off loosely.

COLLAR: With No 10 needles and blue wool, cast on 38 stitches and knit 8 rows garter stitch, (every row knit), slipping the first stitch of each row.
Now continue in stocking stitch with a border of 4 garter stitches at each side until work measures 2 inches.
Next Row: k12, cast off 14 stitches loosely, knit to end.
Work on the last 12 sts only, keeping the garter stitch border at the outer edge, and decreasing at the inside (neck) edge on every alternate row until 9 sts remain; now decrease on every 3rd row until 4sts remain. Continue in garter stitch for ½ inch, then cast off.

Work the remaining 12 stitches to correspond reversing the shaping.

Skirt

With No 10 needles and blue wool, cast on 183 stitches.

1st Row: k3, * p8, k5, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p. 8, k. 3.
2nd Row: In rib, as set out in row 1, working k8, p5.

Repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch, then decrease as follows:-

Next Row: (right side facing): k3, * p2tog, p4, p2tog, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row: Rib.
Continue in p6, k5 rib until work measures 2 inches from start, then decrease again.

Next Row: k3, * p2tog, p2, p2tog, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row: Rib. Continue in p4, k5 rib until work measures 2¾ inches, then decrease again.

Next Row: k. 3, * (p2tog) twice, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row: Rib. Continue in p2, k5 rib until work measures 3½ inches.

Next Row: k. 3, * p2tog, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row: Rib. Work 3 more rows in p1, k5 rib.
Next Row: p3, * p2tog, p4, repeat from *, ending p2.

Change to No 12 needles and work in k1, p1 rib until work measures 4½ inches, then cast off in rib.

Trousers (front and back alike)

With No 10 needles and blue wool, cast on 23 stitches for right leg, and work 6 rows garter stitch. Change to stocking stitch and decrease at beginning of every following 8th row (outside edge) until 18 stitches remain.
Work straight until piece measures 6 inches from start, ending with a purl row, then leave on a spare needle.
Make another piece to correspond for left leg, reversing shapings, then join the legs together by putting both sets of sts on one needle and working across all 36 stitches.

[ Editor's note: Make sure you have right side facing you for both legs and that they are arranged so that the shapings are on the outside edges.]

Continue in stocking stitch for another 2½ inches, then change to No 12 needles and work 3 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next Row: (make holes for elastic): rib 2, * wfwd, k2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, rib 2.
Rib 2 more rows, then cast off in rib.

Work a second piece in the same way.

To make up

Press all pieces lightly with a damp cloth.
Jumper: Catch shoulder seams together at armhole edges, then insert sleeves flat; join side and sleeve seams in one. Fasten each shoulder with a press-stud, then stitch centre of collar along back of neck. Make a blue crochet chain of 8 loops and stitch to front, then slip ends of collar through it.
Skirt: Join seam, then run 3 rounds of shirring elastic or similar through inside of waist ribbing.
Trousers: Join leg and side seams, then thread elastic through holes at waist.
Beret: Make a white pom-pom and stitch to centre of crown.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

Original yarn requirements:
3ozs Patons Rose, or White Heather, fingering 3 ply.
[2ozs bright blue and 1oz white shade, makes both skirt and trousers - if only one is required then 1 oz blue is sufficient.]

A pair each of No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
Two press-studs.
Fine thread elastic for skirt, and narrow flat elastic for trousers.

Tension

30 sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Designed to fit a 16-inch doll.
Jumper: Width all round, 9½ inches.
Skirt:
Length 4½ inches.
Trousers:
Length, 9 inches.
Beret: All round inside edge, 11 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US this stitch is referred to as single crochet.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together
p2tog: purl 2 sts together
wfwd: wool forward to making an extra stitch

A Word
on the Wool.

The pattern is sized for a 16 inch doll and needs a fine yarn that knits to a tension of 30 sts to 4 inches on 3¼mm needles.

You will have difficulty finding these fine yarns in a good range of colours. Some possibilities might be: you might look at machine knitting yarns on cones though these are usually sold in larger quantities; you might consider knitting in a crochet cotton to obtain the required gauge; you might consider trying a fine 4 ply and experimenting with finer needles to obtain the right gauge - or accept the outfit to fit a larger doll.

Be wary of the original quantities suggested - you will almost always need more than stated.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

These are the instructions as they appear in the original pattern. They are untested with modern yarn and needles.

Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (G) cast on cast on 108 stitches and work 4½ inches in Knit 2, Purl 2 rib, increasing at the end of the last row. Change to No. 10 needles, and work 2 rows stocking stitch; then, still in stocking stitch, change to coloured pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit 8 in main shade (G), * 3 in black (B), 13G, 1 in red (R), 13G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
2nd row: Purl 9G, * 1B, 14G, 1R, 14G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.
3rd row: Knit 9G, * 1B, 13G, 3R, 13G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.
4th row: Purl 6G, * 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 6G.
5th row: Knit 5G, * 3B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 3B, 8G, 5R, 8G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 3B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 3B, 5G.
6th row: Purl 5G, * 9 B, 8G, 5R, 8G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 9B, 5G.
7th row: Knit 5G, * 9B, 7G, 7R, 7G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 9B, 5G.
8th row: Purl 6G, * 7B, 7G, 9R, 7G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 7B, 6G.
9th row: Knit 6G, * 7B, 6G, 11R, 6G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 7B, 6G.
10th row: Purl 7G, * 5B, 7G, 11R, 7G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 5B, 7G.
11th row: Knit 7G, * 5B, 7G, 11R, 7G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 5B, 7G.
12th row: W: Purl 8G, * 3B, 8G, 4R, 3G, 4R, 8G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
13th row: Knit 8G, * 3B, 9G, 2R, 5G, 2R, 9G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
14th row: Purl 9G, * 1B, 29G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.

15th-20th rows: Work in stocking stitch in main shade only.

21st row: Increase in first stitch; knit 8G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1R, 8G, increase in last stitch.
22nd row: Purl 10G, * 1R, 14G, 1B, 14G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 1R, 10G.
23rd row: Knit 9G, * 3R,13G, 1B, 13G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3R, 9G.
24th row: Purl 9G, * 3R, 9G, 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 9G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3R, 9G.
25th row: Knit 8G, * 5R, 7G, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 5R, 8G.
26th row: Purl 7G, * 7R, 6G, 11B, 6G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 7R, 7G.
27th row: Knit 6G, * 9R, 5G, 11B, 5G, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, 9R, 6G.
28th row: Purl 6G, * 9R, 5G, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, 9R, 6G.
29th row: Increase in first stitch; knit 6G, * 7R, 7G, 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 7R, 6G, increase in the last stitch.
30th row: Purl 9G, * 5R, 10G, 5B, 10G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 5R, 9 G.
31st row: Knit 10G, * 3R, 10G, 7B, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 3R, 10 G.
32nd row: Purl 10G, * 3R, 10G, 1B, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 3R, 10G.
33rd row: Knit 11G, * 1R, 12G, 5B, 12G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 1R, 11G.
34th row: Purl 11G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 1R, 11G.
35th-40th rows: Work in stocking-stitch in G only, increasing at each end of the 37th row [115 stitches].

These 40 rows form the pattern.
The chart shows the 40 rows written out above.

Continue in pattern, increasing at each end of every 6th row, until there are 125 stitches on the needle, and the 32nd row of the second pattern has been worked.

Shape armhole as follows:

Continuing in pattern, cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease at each end of the next 5 rows (105 stitches).
Continue in pattern without shaping until 3rd pattern is completed.

Shape neck as follows:

1st row: Knit 6G, 3B, 13G, 1R, 59G, 1R, 13G, 3B, 6G.
2nd row: Purl 7G, 1B, 14G, 1R, 59G, 1R, 14G, 1B, 7G.
3rd row: Knit 7G, 1B, 13G, 3R, 18G, (slip these stitches on to spare needle); cast off 21; knit 18G, 3R, 13G, 1B, 7G.

Working on these last 42 stitches:-

4th row: Purl 4G, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, 3R, 18G.

Continue in pattern, decreasing at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 36 stitches remain and the 15th pattern row has been worked.

Shape shoulder as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Cast off 10 stitches at armhole edge, purl to end.
2nd row: K2tog, knit to end.

Repeat these last 2 rows once. Cast off.
Return to stitches on the spare needle; join main shade wool at centre and work left shoulder to match right, shaping at opposite edges.

Back

Work as for the front until 3rd pattern is completed, then
divide for back opening as follows:

Next row: Knit 6G, 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, 3B, 14G, turn.

Work on these 53 stitches for the right shoulder (slip remaining stitches on to a spare needle or stitch holder).
Continue in pattern, omitting centre heart near back opening and keeping these stitches in main shade, until 4th row of 4th pattern has been worked.

Shape shoulder as follows: cast off 11 stitches at armhole edge on the next 3 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Return to stitches left on spare needle or stitch holder. Join main shade wool at centre, cast on 4 stitches for under-lap and work to match the right shoulder, shaping at opposite edges.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles and main shade wool, cast on 73 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch for 19 rows (starting with a purl row). Change to No 10 needles and work in pattern as follows:-

1st row: Knit 6G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * once, 1R, 6G.
2nd row: Purl 6G, * 1R, 14G, 1B, 14G, repeat from * once, 1R, 6G.
3rd row: Knit 5G, * 3R, 13G, 1B, 13G, repeat from * once, 3R, 5G.
4th row: Purl 5G, * 3R, 10G, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, repeat from * once, 3R, 5G.
5th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 3G, * 5R, 8G, 3B, 1G, 1B, 1 G, 3B, 8G, repeat from * once, 5R, 3G; increase in the last stitch.
6th row: Purl 5G, * 5R, 8G, 9B, 8G, repeat from * once, 5R, 5G.
7th row: Knit 4G, * 7R, 7G, 9B, 7G, repeat from * once, 7R, 4G.
8th row: Purl 3G, * 9R, 7G, 7B, 7G, repeat from * once, 9R, 3G.
9th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 1G, * 11R, 6G, 7B, 6G, repeat from * once, 11R, 1G; increase in the last stitch.
10th row: Purl 3G, * 11R, 7G, 5B, 7G, repeat from * once, 11R, 3G.
11th row: Knit 3G, * 11R, 7G, 5B, 7G, repeat from * once, 11R, 3G.
12th row: Purl 3G, * 4R, 3G, 4R, 8G, 3B, 8G, repeat from * once, 4R, 3G, 4R, 3G.
13th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 3G, * 2R, 5G, 2R, 9G, 3B, 9G, repeat from * once, 2R, 5G, 2R, 3G; increase in the last stitch.
14th row: Purl 24G, 1B, 29G, 1B, 24G.
15th-20th rows: Work in stocking stitch in main colour G, increasing at each end of the 17th row.
21st row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 8G, * 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, repeat from * once, 3B, 8G; increase in the last stitch.
22nd row: Purl 11G, * 1B, 14G, 1R, 14G, repeat from * once, 1B, 11G.
23rd row: Knit 11G, * 1B, 13G, 3R, 13G, repeat from * once, 1B, 11G.
24th row: Purl 7G, * 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 9G, 3R, 9G, repeat from * once, 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 7G.
25th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 5G, * 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G, 5R, 7G, repeat from * once, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G; increase in the last stitch.
26th row: Purl 7G, * 11B, 6G, 7R, 6G, repeat from * once, 11B, 7G.
27th row: Knit 7G, * 11B, 5G, 9R, 5G, repeat from * once, 11B, 7G.
28th row: Purl 7G, * 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G, 9R, 5G, repeat from * once, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G.
29th row: Increase in the first stitch, Knit 7G, * 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G, 7R, 7G, repeat from * once, 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G; increase in the last stitch.
30th row: Purl 11G, * 5B, 10G, 5R, 10G, repeat from * once, 5B, 11G.
31st row: Knit 10G, * 7B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * once, 7B, 10G.
32nd row: Purl 10G, * 7B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * once, 7B, 10G.
33rd row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 10G, * 5B, 12G, 1R, 12G, repeat from * once, 5B, 10G; increase in the last stitch.
34th row: Purl 13G, * 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, repeat from * once, 3B, 13 G.
35th and 36th rows: Work in stocking stitch in G [89 stitches].

Now shape top: work 4 rows in G stocking stitch, casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the first 2 rows, then decreasing at each end of the next 2 rows.
This completes one pattern. Repeat again from 1st row, being careful to place each "pip" directly over the one below (as shown in the chart), and at the same time shaping as follows:-

Work 2 rows straight, then decrease at the beginning of the next 4 rows. * Work 2 rows straight, then decrease at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Repeat from * once.
Work 16 rows straight, then decrease at each end of the next 2 alternate rows (69 stitches).
Work 2 rows straight; decrease at each end of the next row. Now decrease at each end of every following 4th row, but when commencing the 3rd pattern, omit the heart at either end and keep stitches in main shade; continue until 16th row has been worked (59 stitches). Continue in G stocking stitch, decreasing at each end of every alternate row until 49 stitches remain.
Next row: k2tog all along, ending k1.
Cast off.

Roll for neck and Sleeves

With No. 12 needles cast on 7 stitches in R and 7 stitches in B.
1st row: (p6, k1) in B, twist the threads, (k1, p6) in R.
2nd row: (k6, p1) R, twist the threads, (p1, k6) B.

Repeat these 2 rows until roll is required length. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press all parts except ribbing on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side, shoulder, and sleeve seams. Set in sleeves, arranging fullness at shoulder. Sew stocking-stitch roll about 2 rows in from neck and sleeve edges, sewing along centre of roll, leaving the edges to roll under. Press all seams on wrong side.

Make three crochet buttons thus:
Make 3 chain, join in a ring, work 6 dc into ring. Work 2 dc in each stitch of last row, work 2 rows without shaping. Work 1 dc in every alternate stitch of last row. Stuff button with wool. Fasten off. Work 1 row of dc round back opening, making three loop buttonholes on right side of opening. Sew the buttons in position. Sew press-stud at extreme top of opening.

Materials

Original materials called for: 12ozs Patons Super Bouclet.
[8ozs green (main colour) and 2 ozs each in black and red.]

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.

A press-stud.

Editor's note: The closure for the back opening uses 3 buttons and loops that are self-made using crochet, so you will need an equivalent size crochet hook for finishing.

Tension

28sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-35 inch bust; length from top of shoulder: 20 inches; sleeve seam: 6 inches.

Abbreviations

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

dc: double crochet - known as single crochet in the US.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size for this pattern imply a standard 4 ply yarn would work. Given that bouclé yarn tends to work up fairly firmly, it might be possible to substitute a double knitting yarn to make a larger size.

Editor's note: My experience of these vintage patterns leads me to suggest that you may need far more yarn than the quantities indicate. In some cases I have needed one 50g ball (which is actually 1¾ozs) to replace each 1oz ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Starting at top with the cuff, using the main colour, cast on 64 stitches on three needles (21,22, 21).
[Editor's note: I recommend using one size larger needles than you use for the plain portion of the sock, as Fair Isle technique tends to pull the tension a little tighter.]
Join in a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches, and knit 2 rounds.
[Editor's note: To avoid the cuff curling up so much, I actually did one row purl then one row knit.]
Then work in the cuff pattern as follows (there is a chart at the end of the section):

3rd Round: * k1 contrast (C), k1 main (M); repeat from * to end of round.
4th Round: * k1 M, k1C; repeat from * to end of round.
5th and 6th Round: knit all round in M.
7th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C, k2M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
8th Round: k2C, * k2M, k2C, k2M, k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C; repeat from * all round, ending k1C.
9th Round: * k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k2M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
10th Round: k2M, *k2C, k2M, k2C, k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M; repeat from * all round, ending k1M.
11th - 14th Rounds: Repeat 7th to 10th rounds.
15th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k7M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
16th Round: as 8th round.
17th Round: * k1M, k2C, k4M, k3C, k4M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
18th Round: as10th round.
19th Round: * k1C, k4M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end of round.
20th Round: as 8th round.
21st Round: as 7th round.
22nd and 23rd Rounds: knit all round in M.
24th and 25th Rounds: repeat 3rd and 4th rounds.
26th and 27th Rounds: knit all round in M.

This completes the cuff.

Break colour C and continue in main colour only.
[Editor's note: Change to smaller needles here.]

Turn the work inside out to make a fold-over cuff and start to work the rounds in the opposite direction.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 3 inches [Editor's note: about 30 rows.], decreasing 8 stitches in the last round only, by knitting together every 7th and 8th stitch.

Next Round: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [54 stitches]

Now work in stocking-stitch (knit every round) for 2 inches.
[Editor's note: about 20 rows.]

Heel

Knit 13 stitches of first needle on to third needle (this is the heel needle), then turn and purl back 26 stitches; divide the remaining 28 stitches equally onto the other two needles. Work back and forth over heel needles as follows:

1st Row: slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit across remaining stitches.
2nd Row: slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl across remaining stitches.
Repeat these last 2 rows alternately until piece measures 2 inches.
[Editor's note: I recommend knitting 26 rows.]

Next Row (right side facing): knit across first 16 stitches, k2tog; turn.

Next Row: p7, p2tog; turn.
Next Row: k7, k2tog; turn.
Repeat the last 2 rows alternately until 8 stitches remain on heel needle.

Next Round: needle 1: knit across heel needle, then pick up 14 stitches down left side of heel; needle 2: knit across next two, needles (thus transferring these stitches on to one needle); needle 3: pick up 14 stitches across other side of heel and k4, from needle 1.

Hereafter, work in rounds of stocking stitch but, on every other round, k2tog at end of first needle, and (s1, k1, psso) at beginning of third needle until 54 stitches remain.

Work straight until piece measures 2 inches less than that required for overall foot length.

[Editor's note: This was about 50 rows for my UK size 4 foot. (EU 37, US 6½.]

Toe

There should be 13 stitches on first needle, 28 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle. End of round is centre of sole. Work 1 round, decreasing at each end of second needle, then one round straight.

Now there are 13 stitches on first needle, 26 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle.

Next Round: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1; on second needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to within last 3 stitches, then k2tog, k1; on third needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to end of round.
Work 1 round straight.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16 stitches remain.
Transfer the stitches on to two needles, having 8 stitches on each needle and divided so that sole lies flat.

Graft the stitches together.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

3ozs Patons Real Shetland Wool.
[2 ozs main shade and 1oz contrasting shade. Original uses white and scarlet].

A set of four No 11 needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

30 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (white).
C is contrast (red).

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops").

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Real Shetland Wool.

I used Cygnet Wool-Rich 4ply. I chose this yarn as it seemed fine enough to achieve the required tension. I worked mainly on No 12 needles (one size smaller than specified) using No 11s for the Fair Isle section. However I think a conventional 4 ply at 28sts to 4 inches would make a better fabric.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The body of the bolero is worked in fancy rib over 2 rows as follows:

1st Row: Knit.
2nd Row: (K1, p1) repeated across row.
[Editor's note: Keep the rib aligned as you increase and decrease to get the shape.]

Back

Cast on 84 stitches and work in ribbed pattern as above.
K keeping the continuity of the rib carefully, cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row until 44 sts remain.

Now cast off 1 stitch at beginning of every row till 16 sts remain.

Work 20 rows straight.

Continue to work in pattern but increase 1 st at each end of the next and every following 3rd row until there are 26 sts on the needle.
Cast off.

Side Pieces

Using three needles, pick up and knit 110 stitches up right side of back piece, then cast on 122 stitches. Arrange the sts as follows:
1st needle: 92 stitches; 2nd needle: 70 stitches; 3rd needle: 70 stitches.

Join into a round and work 20 rounds in pattern.

Next Round: * k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
Work 15 more rounds in pattern, beginning with a rib row.
Next Round: k2tog all round, casting off firmly at the same time.

Work second side to correspond.

Border

With five needles, using 2 strands of wool together, and right side facing, pick up and knit 42 stitches across lower edge of back, 60 stitches round right side, 13 across back of neck and 60 stitches round left side.

1st Round: Knit.
2nd Round: Purl.
3rd Round: Knit.
4th Round: Purl.
5th Round: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: Purl, dropping all the stitches wound round needle.
7th Round: Knit.
8th Round: Purl, increasing once in every 4th stitch.
9th Round: Knit.
10th Round: * P1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
11th Round: Knit, dropping all the stitches wound round needle. 12th Round: Purl.
13th Round: Knit.

Repeat 12th and 13th rounds, then 12th round again.
Now, with crochet hook, fasten off by working 1dc into each stitch as it comes off the needle, with 1 chain loosely in between.

Sleeves

Starting at the top with two needles and double wool, cast on 36 stitches and knit 4 rows garter stitch (every row knitted).

†
5th Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
7th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end.
8th Row: Knit.

Repeat from † once, then 5th row again.

Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end.
Next Row: Knit.

†
Next Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.

Repeat from † once, and then again omitting decreasings.
Knit 2 rows.
Cast off.

Making up

Press very lightly only.
Join sleeve seams and sew in sleeves.
Press back border round neck to form roll collar .

Materials

Original quoted 5ozs Beehive Non-Shrink Baby Wool 3ply.

Five No 7 (4½mm) double-pointed needles, or one pair of needles and a circular needle.

No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

[Alternative 9 (½ oz) balls Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora and five No 8 (4mm) needles]

Tension

28 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in back; 40 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in side pieces.

Size matters

To fit size 32-36 inch bust; length from top of shoulder to lower edge, 16 inches; sleeve seam, 4½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together (decrease).

dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US is referred to as single crochet.

ch: chain

A Word
on the Wool.

I have not made this up in a modern equivalent yarn so have no comments to offer from experience. From the tension, and the possible substitution of the angora yarn, it seems this would knit up with a modern 4 ply rather than 3 ply. Generally I refute the claim that old wools were thicker than modern ones - the bottom line is that in times past people patiently knitted much finer wools than we like today. However I have noticed that in the 1940s patterns there is no doubt that some of the 3 plys have tensions of 7 sts to the inch rather than the 8 or 9 that you expect with a 3 ply. I plan to knit this using handspun (hence not completed yet....)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Starting at the top make 37 chain.

1st row: Miss 2 ch; 35tr; turn with 2ch.
2nd row: 35tr, working into the front of each st; turn with 2ch.
3rd row: 35tr, working into the back of each st (right side facing); turn with 2ch.
4th row: as second, but make 5ch at the end of this row; pull through thread and fasten off. Cut the thread.
[Editor's note: This is the piece of work that fits into the metal frame. Your 35 treble need to be as wide as the handle frame and your 4 rows need to be as deep as the frame. My frame was roughly 5 x 2 inches; my width was OK but I needed to add in 2 rows to make the length, so I repeated rows 2 and 3 before moving on to row 4 as above, making 6 rows in all. Beware if you make a odd number of rows as there is a "right side" to this work - working into the front and back of the sts makes ribs on the right side.
I thought I would have to add width as well (the frame size stated as 5¾ins and my work was barely 5); however, once I got the frame it was clear that my work fitted perfectly as the insertion width was about 5¼ins plus you do need the work to be very slightly stretched, not relaxed.
My advice is get the frame in your hot little hand first and make the bag to fit.
Be careful if you do add chain to make the bag wider, as you will need to be able to make the shell pattern fit later on. I varied my crochet hook size until I got a satisfactory tension to achieve the right width, rather than adding in sts.]

Now make a second piece exactly the same, and at the end of the final row, make 5ch, and then join the two pieces together by working across the first piece to end of 5ch in slipstitch, then slipstitch across 2nd piece, making a round.

Now change to pattern and work backwards and forwards in rows,
[Editor's note: This confused me at first - but you are "working backwards and forwards" and slip stitching at the end of each row to join the round.]
working into the back of each stitch as follows:

1st row: 1ch; 3dc into 3rd of 5 ch; 3dc into first space * miss 2 spaces; 3 dc into next space; repeat from * across all trebles; then 3dc into 3rd of 5 ch; work across the other side as for the first [27 groups]. Slipstitch into the middle of 3dc made on the 5ch. Turn.

2nd row: (1dc, 1tr, 1dc) into middle of each group of 3dc. Turn with a slipstitch to the next treble.

3rd row: 1dc into same treble as slipstitch, * (1dc, 3tr, 1dc) into next group, 1dc into centre of next group, * repeat from * to * once.
Work a group of (1dc, 3tr, 1dc) into each of the next 3 groups; repeat from * to * twice.
Work a group of (1dc, 3tr, 1dc) into each of the next 2 groups.
[Editor's note: This completes one "side"; it seems asymmetrical as you have one shell group designed to sit on the side of the bag.]
Work the other side of the bag to correspond.
There should now be 18 shell groups of (1dc, 3tr, 1dc) in all.
Turn with a slipstitch into second treble.

4th row: (1dc, 5tr, 1dc) into the middle of each group; turn with a slipstitch into second treble.
5th row: As 4th.

6th row: (1dc, 7tr, 1dc) into the middle of each group; turn with a slipstitch into second treble.
7th row-10th row: As 6th.

Now pinch the two sides of the bag together at the bottom edge and slipstitch across from one side to the other, taking two outside scallops together, to join. The scallops that were on the "side" of the bag are twisted slightly to accomplish this, joining 9 full scallops and avoiding a half-scallop at the sides of this edge.
Fasten off.

Making up:

Sew in all ends.
Sew bag to frame. You are intended to "draw up the work at the sides" so that it fits over the hinges, but as my work was lightly stretch over the frame - and I think due to the design of the frame - I could not make this work, and the hinges are exposed in the finished bag.
[Editor's note: Some frames have no holes in them for sewing and you are intended to glue the fabric in place; check carefully before you purchase.]
Make a fabric lining; I used a fine corded velvet (a remnant) in black.

If your frame has fasteners designed for a cord handle, make a cord or buy a fine chain to form the handle. I made a kumihimo cord, as this is a current interest of mine.

Materials

Example shown is made from 2 balls of Twilleys Goldfingering.

Bag handles from Bags of Handles
[see under 'frames'].
I used this one.

One No. 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

Fabric remnant for lining.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
tr = treble crochet
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

No tension given - my 37 treble worked out to 5 inches when not eased out on frame.

Size matters

Fits 5¼ inch width handle.
My advice is get the frame first and make the bag to fit, by varying the hook size or adding stitches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions (both hands alike)

Using No. 14 (2mm) needles cast on 48 stitches, and work in k2, p2 rib in rounds for 2½ inches.

Next row: Knit twice into every stitch.

Now slip every alternate stitch (ie every "made" stitch) on to No 12(11) needles and leave the original 48 sts on the No14 needles on the outside of the work.

[Editor's note: The original instructions expect you to continue to knit on the larger needles, leaving the outer sts on the No 14 needles. I found this very awkward; I thought it would improve as I got further up the glove but it did not.
So I took the trouble, after I had slipped the sts as shown, to thread the outer sts onto waste yarn (slippery yarn, as the Tweed wool is felty), and then when I had finished the inner glove, rethread them back on to the 14 needles.]

Continue on the No 12(11) needles, on the "made" sts, in rounds of plain knitting, and work 2 rows straight.

3rd round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last st, knit twice into it.
Knit 2 rounds.

6th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 2sts, knit twice into next st, k1.
Knit 2 rounds.

9th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 3sts, knit twice into next st, k2.
Knit 2 rounds.

Continue in this way, increasing on every 3rd row at either side of the thuumb, until there are 66 sts on the needles.

Divide for thumb
Next round: K8; leave next 50 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 8 sts of round. [20sts]

Continue on these 20 sts for 22 rounds.
Next round: K2tog all round.
Next round: Knit
Next round: K2tog all round.
Draw thread through remaining sts and fasten off.

Rejoin wool to continue with the main part of the mitten:
remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base of the thumb, then knit the 50 sts from the holder. [54sts]

Work 18 rounds straight on these 54 sts.

Divide for fingers
Next round (forefinger): K10; leave leave next 38 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 6sts of round. [20sts]

Work 3 rounds straight on these 20 sts, then work 4 rounds k1, p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Next round (middle finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base forefinger. Knit first 6 sts from holder; cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; slip the last 6 sts on holder onto a needle and knit them. [20sts]

Complete as for forefinger.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base third finger, and knit the remaining 14 sts from holder. [18sts]

Work as before over these 18 sts.

Over-mitten
Now return to sts left on the No 14 needles at the wrist.
[Editor's note: Or - thread the sts on the spare wool back on to the No 14 needles.]
Join in the wool at the beginning of the round, (base of the thumb), and with No 11 (10) needles, work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), for 5 inches.

Next row (right side facing): K2tog; k21; k2tog; k21; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.
7th row: K2tog; knit to centre; k3tog; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.

Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing as for 7th row on every 6th row until 37 sts remain.
Work 3 rows straight.
Then decrease in the same way on every row until 9 sts remain.
Cast off.

Making up
Press stocking-stitch portions with a damp cloth. Darn in all ends. Insert zip down side of outer mitten, starting at top and ending with the pull just above the thumb; join the remainder of seam across top of fingers. The edges of the outer mitten should fit nicely round the thumb; finish these with a row of double crochet.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 25g balls Rowan 4ply Tweed.

Set of 4 each of numbers 14, 12 and 11 (UK size) needles for the smaller size, and 14, 11 and 10 for the larger size.
A number 12 crochet hook.

Two 4-inch zip fasteners.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 1 inch

Rowan 4ply tweed tension: 28st and 40rows to 4 inches (10cm) using No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit size 6¼-7, or 7½-8½ inch hand.

A word on the wool.

Original calls for 2oz 3 ply for girl's size [sic] and 3oz 4ply for man's size.
I have often read that older 3 or 4 ply wools were thicker than 3 or 4 plies of today; I have not really noticed that before in practice - however I think a large man's mitten could be knitted in guernsey 5ply or a light weight DK, like Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Each sock is worked in one piece. Make two alike.

Commence at the front edge. Using No. 12 needles, cast on 64 stitches, and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No. 6 needles.

**
Row 1: (right side) Knit twice into every stitch. [128 sts].
Row 2: Sl.1, purl to the last st, k1.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch (k 1 row, p 1 row).
Row 7: *K2tog; repeat from * to end of row. [64 sts].
Work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib. **
This completes a 12 row pattern.
Repeat from ** to ** twice and then from ** until you have completed the 7th pattern row.

Change to No. 12 needles. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up - Press each piece lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Join the cast on and cast off edges together, then continue the seam, stitching up one end for the toe.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, work a picot edge all around the top of each of the socks, as follows:

One slip st to secure the yarn to the top front edge.
*3ch, 1dc into the first of these chain, miss 1 st, 1 slip st into the next st. Repeat from * around each top.

Embroidery
Using the contrasting wool, work pairs of chain stitches, (or a kind of "lazy daisy" stitch) in a "V" shape down each front seam.
[Editor's note: The link above is to Sharon Boggon's lovely site "In a minute Ago". She is an artist who is interested in the connections between textiles and digital technology, and has created a wonderful site, full of interesting information (and a blog!)]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2oz of 4ply, and a small quantity of contrast for embroidery.
Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, in colour 007.

One pair each of number 12, an No 6 needles.

Tension

20st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 6 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

Baby Cashmerino is heavier than a 4ply, knitting to a tension of 25st and 34 rows to 4 inches. Thus I used more yarn than the original pattern. Each 50g is 125m, and I used 90g.