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February 2017

French Connection

FrenchConnectionSweater.jpg

An expression of the era of safari suits and cravats* heralding a new "casual look" - where you could be smart without a lounge suit - like Brett Sinclair. [Having said that I can only find pictures of Brett with his safari jacket open necked or worn over a polo-neck, and his cravats worn conventionally with his suits; perhaps this was an expression of the character he was playing rather than fashion.]

If you overlook the styling - and maybe the colour - this is quite a nice sweater - and maybe cap if not all worn as an outfit. A shorter button-through neck would improve it for me.

* See gratuitous picture of Roger at the end of the instructions.

Sweater Instructions.

Back

**
With No. 7 needles, cast on 72/76/80/84 stitches

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): * Tw2R, k1 ; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * p1, Tw2L, p1 ; repeat from * to end.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k.3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
7th row: k1, p2, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, .
8th row: purl.
These 8 rows form pattern. Repeat them twice more.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 24th row until there are 78/82/86/90 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until back measures 17 inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 58/60/62/64 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 26/26½/27/27½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 26/26/28/28 stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work 2/1/2/1 rows straight.

Divide for front opening as follows:

Next row: pattern 26/27/28/29. Turn.
Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Work straight in pattern on these 26/27/28/29 stitches for first side until front measures 23/23/23½/23½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows, then on every alternate row until 16/17/17/18 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6/5/5/6 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 6 stitches on a safety-pin; rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 7 needles, cast on 32/32/36/36 stitches and work 3 inches in rib as on lower edge of back increasing 4 stitches evenly across last row: 36/36/40/40 stitches.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as on back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 6th row until there are 48/44/52/50 stitches.
Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 4th row until there are 62/64/66/70 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18/18/18½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 38/38/42/42 38/38/42/42 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 16 stitches remain.
Cast Off.

Left Front Border

With right side facing and No 7 needles, work across 6 centre stitches on front as follows:

1st row: k2, p1, m1, p1, k2 {7 sts}
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 3 times.
3rd row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2.

Repeat the last 2 rows until border, when slightly stretched, fits up left side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on .a safety-pin.
Using a flat seam, sew border in position.

Right Front Border

With No 7 needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in rib as for left front until border fits up right side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.

Do not break yarn. Leave stitches on a safety pin.
Sew border in position.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly under a damp cloth or following the instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar

With right side facing and No 7 needles, rib 7 stitches from right front border, pick up and knit 16/18/20/22 up right side of neck, knit 26/26/28/28 from back, increase 1 stitch at centre, pick and knit 16/18/20/22 down left side, then rib 7 border stitches.
{73/77/83/87 sts}

Shape collar as follows:

1st row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches , k2.
3rd row: k1, p1, k1, m1, rib to last 3 stitches, m1, k1, p1, k1.
4th row: k2, p2, rib to last 4 stitches, p2, k2.
5th row: as 3rd.
6th row: rib 34/36/39/41, (m1, rib1, m1, rib3) twice, m1, rib1, m1, rib to end.
7th - 9th rows: as 3rd - 5th rows.

Now repeat rows 2 - 5 until collar measures 4 inches at centre back, ending with 2nd or 4th row.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for making up, noting that yarn must be twisted from time to time during make up so that it does not break.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Catch down border stitches at base of opening on wrong side.
Press seams.

Materials

17/18/19/20 x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

15st and 20 rows to four inches on No 4 needles over stocking stitch.
16st and 20 rows over pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest: 17/18/19/20 inches;
length from * top of shoulders: 26/26½/27/27½ ins;
sleeve seam:
18/18/18½/18½ ins

Abbreviations

Tw2R: k2tog, but do not slip stitches off needle; then knit first stitch again,
slipping both stitches off needle together
Editors note: although the "twist 2 left" method (below) is familiar to me, I would not normally do a "twist 2 right" in this fashion. I would normally knit the second stitch on the needle without slipping it off the needle, then knit the first stitch and slip both off together. However, I am not sure if this instruction is intentional to achieve a slightly different pattern.
Tw2L: miss first stitch and knit into back of second stitch, then knit first stitch, slipping both stitches off needle together.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Cap Instructions

Crown

With No, 4 needles, cast on 14 stitches and purl 1 row.

Shape as follows:
1st row (right side facing): increase in first stitch, k1, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, Tw2R, increase in next stitch, k1.
2nd row: increase in first stitch, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, increase in next stitch, p1.
3rd row: increase in first stitch, k1, * p2, Tw2L; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch, p1.
4th row: increase in first stitch, purl to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, p1.
5th row: increase in first stitch, k3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last
2 stitches, increase in next stitch, k1.
6th row: increase in first stitch, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p1, increase in next stitch, k1.
7th row: increase in first stitch, p1, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,Tw2L, increase in next stitch, k1.
8th row:purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern, increase 1 stitch as before at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {34 sts}
Work 3 rows straight, then increase 1 stitch as before at each end of following row: {36 sts}
Work 9 rows straight. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row: {32 sts}
Work 1 row straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {26 sts}

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off

Brim

With No 7 needles, cast on 84 stitches.

1st row: (p2, increase in next stitch) 3 times, * p1, increase in next stitch, p2, increase in next stitch; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch p2. {116 sts}

Change to No 4 needles and work rows 1 - 8 of pattern as on back of sweater, then repeat rows 1 - 3 again. Cast off knitwise.

Peak

With right side facing and No 7 needles, pick up and knit 76 stitches along cast-on edge on the brim.
Knit 3 rows.

Shape as follows:
1st row: knit to last 19 stitches. Turn.
2nd row
: k2, increase in next stitch, (k1, increase in next stitch) 16 times, k3. Turn.
3rd and 4th rows: knit to last 21 stitches. Turn.
5th and 6th rows: knit to last 23 stitches. Turn.

Continue working short rows in this manner, working 2 stitches fewer on every 2 rows until the rows "knit to last 33 stitches. Turn" have been worked.

Next 2 rows: knit to last 36 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows
: knit to last 40 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows: knit to end, picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and knitting it together with next stitch to avoid a
hole. Knit 1 row.
Cast off knitwise.

Making Up

Block crown to a 9 inch circle by pinning out round edges, and press lightly under a damp cloth.
Block and press brim and peak.

Using a flat seam, join ends of brim.
Placing join to centre of cast-off edge of crown, oversew cast-off edge of brim neatly to edge of crown.

Materials

3x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

24st and 32 rows to four inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

"Average hat size".

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SaintSafariJacket.jpg

December 2016

Cosy Pram Cover - crochet

CrochetCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to crochet a simple cover if you can get over the lurid sixties colour schemes. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations which would be less traumatic for a baby].

Instructions

The crochet blanket is made up of a number of large motifs sewn together and then joined with smaller motifs which are integrated as you work.

Large Motif (make 24)

Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and DK in Light colour (L) make 6ch loosely and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 3 chain, work 23tr into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch. [24 sts].
Break L and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M work 5ch, 1tr in same stitch as slip stitch; 1ch, * miss 2 stitches, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * 6 times more; miss 2ch, and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 5ch.
Break M and join in Dark colour (D).
3rd round: In D work a slip stitch into first 2ch space, 3ch, (1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in same 2ch space; * 1dc in next 1ch space, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 2ch space; repeat from * 6 times more; 1dc into last 1ch space, and join with a slip stitch into top of 3ch, slip stitch into next tr.
Break D and rejoin in L.
4th round: In L work a slip stitch in first 2ch space, 3ch, (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same 2ch space; 1dc into next dc, * (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next 2ch space; 1dc in next dc; repeat from * 6 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch.
Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

To Make Up

Using L, join motifs by stitching centre stitches of each motif together, and making 6 rows of 4 motifs.
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant by centre stitches, I think they must mean the centre stitches of the last round. Clearly the motifs are attached at the sides as in the picture]

Work 15 small motifs to fill the spaces formed by the larger motifs and join together as follows:

Small Motif (make 15 - joining as you work)

The smaller motifs are worked in 4 ply.
Using No 9 (3½mm) hook and 4ply in Dark (D) make 8 chain loosely and join with a slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring.

1st round: 6 chain, work (1tr, 3ch) 7 times into the ring and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 6 ch.
Break D and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M slip stitch in first space; 3ch, 2tr, in same space; (slip stitch inserting hook from right side of large motif into centre treble of 3tr on large motif; 3tr in next chain space of small motif) 7 times; insert hook into centre treble of last petal, and at the same time insert hook into top of 3ch, joining with a slip stitch.
[Editor's note: This sounds more complex than it is - you need to be working it to understand. All you are doing is joining the small motif in between the larger ones as you work round 2]
Fasten off.

This completes the motif - work the other 14 in the same way.

Finishing

With right side facing, Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and M in DK, work 1 round of dc around scalloped edge of cover.
Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Cut the lining material to fit around the scalloped edges. Turn in the edges and catch down all around the scallops inside the dc border.

Materials

Double Knitting: 2 x 50g balls of Light, and 1 each of Medium and Dark.

4ply: 1 x 25g in each of Medium and Dark.

One No 7 (4½mm) and one No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

½ yard of washable lining material to match the dark colour.

Tension

Each motif is intended to measure 4½ inches.

Size matters

18 x 27 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.

Stylecraft have a good range of acrylics with equivalent colours available in DK and 4ply.


CrochetIsEasy.jpg

Cosy Pram Cover - knitted

KnittedCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to knit a simple cover if you can get over the dramatic sixties colour scheme. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations].

Instructions

The pattern uses DK weight yarn with 2 strands held together.

Motif (make 12)

Using main shade (M) cast on 96 stitches and work 11 rows in garter stitch (every row knit but slip the first stitch of every row).

Next row: Sl1, k7, slip these 8 stitches on to a thread; k4, increase in the next stitch, (k9, increase in next stitch) 7 times; k5; slip the next 8 stitches on to a thread (88 sts).

Joining in contrast (C) as required and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: Sl1, k2C, * k4M, k2C, repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
2nd row: Sl1, k2C; yft, * p4M, k2C, yft; repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
3rd row: In M sl1, knit to end.
4th row: In M sl1, purl to last stitch, k1.
5th row: Sl1, k3M, * k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end.
6th row: Sl1, p3M, * k2C, yft, p4M; repeat from * to last 6 stitches;
k2C, yft, p3M, kl M.
7th and 8th rows: As 3rd and 4th rows.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until main part measures approximately 26½ inches ending with a 2nd pattern row.
Break off contrast C.
Next row: K4, k2tog, (k9, k2tog) 7 times; k5. (80 sts)
Break off M. and slip stitches on to a length of yarn.

Borders and finishing

With wrong side facing, rejoin M to the 8 border stitches on left side and work in garter stitch until Border measures 26 inches from cast-on edge, ending with wrong side facing.
Break M and slip stitches on to a thread.
Sew in position, using a flat seam, slightly stretching it to fit edge of
main part.
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining border stitches and complete to correspond with first Border, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Sl1, k7, then on to same needle knit across stitches of main
part and first Border (96 sts).
Work 10 rows in garter stitch across all stitches.
Cast off evenly.

Sew remaining Border in position.
Pin out to measurements.
Press lightly on wrong side.

Materials

6 x 50g balls double knitting in main shade (M) and 2 in contrast (C).

Two No 4 (6mm) needles

Tension

18sts x 20 rows to 4 inches over pattern. [Yarn is used double throughout].

Size matters

22 x 27½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.
You could also consider knitting a single strand in a heavier weight yarn - Aran, worsted, even chunky. However you would need to knit a tension square in the pattern stitches.

September 2016

Plaid Pullover

PlaidSlipover.jpg

Pullover in a range of sizes, with an interesting plaid effect made by slipping stitches.
Joy first knitted it 35 years ago for her husband and he liked it so much he was always asking her to redo it. It took a while but she finally managed it - see her satisfied hubby at the end....

Instructions:

The instructions are given in 9 sizes with smallest size given first and the larger sizes in brackets.

Back


Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting yarn cast on 93 [99; 105; 111; 115; 121; 127; 133; 137] stitches.

1st row (right side): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end..
Repeat these rows 9 times more.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and commence pattern.

1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th sizes only

1st row: Purl
2nd row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, knit to end.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, purl to end.
4th row: Knit 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches, [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, knit to end.
5th row: Purl 6 [9; -; 4; 6; 9; -; 4; 6], * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 10 [13; -; 8; 10; 13; -; 8; 10], stitches; [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, purl to end.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

3rd and 7th sizes only
(Note: same instructions for both sizes)

1st row: Purl
2nd row: K4, purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k7, * [purl next stitch winding yarn 3 times round needle, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, purl next stitch, winding yarn 3 times round needle, k4.
3rd row: Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and yarn A bouclé, p4,yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops from previous row to fall, p7, * [yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yb, slip 1 purlwise, allowing the extra loops to fall, p4.
4th row: Knit 4, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k7 * [bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k2] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, bring yarn to front of work, slip l purlwise, k4.
5th row: Purl 4, yb, slip l purlwise, p7 * [yb, slip l purlwise, p2] twice, p5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches; yb, slip l purlwise, p4.
6th row: As 4th row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

All sizes

Continue in pattern ...

....until work measures 14 [14½; 14½; 15; 15; 15½; 15½; 16; 16] inches from the beginning , ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 69 [75; 79; 83; 87; 91; 95; 99; 101] stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 8¼ [; ; 9; ; ; ; 10; 10¼] inches from the commencement of the armhole shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as given for back from to until work measures 8 rows less than the Back to armhole shapings ending with a wrong side row.

Shape First side of neck
Next row (right side facing): Pattern , 43 [46; 49; 52; 54; 57; 60; 63; 65], p2tog, p1. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: Pattern to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to last 9 stitches, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Work 2 together, pattern to end.

††
Continue to decrease in this way at the neck edge on every 4th row, and at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every alternate row until there are 29 [32; 34; 35; 37; 39; 41; 43; 43] stitches remaining.
Keeping side edge straight, decrease at neck edge as before until 20 [22; 23; 25; 26; 28; 29; 30; 30] stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures the same as the Back to shoulder shaping, ending at the side edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 9; 9; 10; 10; 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [8; 7; 9; 8; 10; 9; 10; 10] stitches.
††

Return to the stitches on the spare needle on the other half of the front. Slip the centre stitch onto a safety pin.

Shape second side of neck:
Next row: Joining in yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches, p1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row:P1, p2tog, pattern to end.
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape Armhole:
Next row: Pattern 7, p2tog, pattern to end.
Next row: cast off 7 [7; 8; 8; 8; 8; 9; 10; 10] stitches; pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.
Next row: Pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 7, work 2 together, pattern to last 2 stitches, work 2 together.

Complete to match the first side, working from †† to ††.

Neckband

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches down left side of neck, knit centre from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread or stitch marker), pick up and knit 68 [70; 72; 74; 76; 78; 80; 82; 84] stitches up right side of neck, knit across the 29 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35; 37; 39; 41] stitches of back neck, increasing into last stitch: 167 [173; 179; 183; 189; 193; 199; 205; 211] stitches.

1st row: Work in k1/p1 rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch; slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at back of work, place stitch on right hand needle back onto
left hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle and p3tog; p1/k1 rib to end.
2nd row: Rib to 1 stitch before centre stitch slip next stitch onto right hand needle, slip next stitch onto cable needle and leave at front of work, slip next stitch onto right hand needle. Now place stitch on cable needle back onto left hand needle, then place both stitches on right hand needle back onto left hand needle and k3tog; rib to end.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more, then the first row once.
Cast off in rib, decreasing on this row as before.

Armbands

Using a back stitch and matching yarn, join left shoulder seam and Neckband. With right side of work facing, using No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and yarn B, pick up and knit 90 [94; 96; 100; 102; 104; 108; 110; 112] stitches evenly along armhole edge.
Work 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Pin out to correct measurements and steam very gently, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Using matching yarn, join side seams and armbands.

Materials

Yarn A - bouclé double knitting: 3 [3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5; 5; 5] x 50g balls
Yarn B standard (smooth) double knitting: 3 [3; 3; 3; 4; 4; 4; 4; 5] x 50g balls

A pair each No 10 (3¼mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.
Cable needle.

Tension

22sts to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest to fit: 32 [34; 36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48] inches.

Chest actual: 34 [36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46; 48; 50] inches.

Length: 23-27 ins.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

sl: slip

yb: yarn back

A word on the wool

You can see in the picture this is knitted in two different colours and textures of double knitting yarn.

Finding a substitute will not be impossible as DK yarns are fairly standard, though it might be trickier to find the bouclé.

The example shown, used Stylecraft double knitting yarn in just the one texture (no bouclé). It took 125g of the maroon colour and just under 100g of the grey (or silver).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PlaidSlipoverU.jpg

Joy's DH - doesn't he look pleased? (and only a little self-conscious...)

August 2016

Bags for Beach or Festivals

FestivalBagII.jpg

Summer season bags in crochet this time - for beach - or for festivals if you want the full seventies vibe. Easy to make using a single basic granny square motif.

Instructions.

The bags are made up by joining a number of the same basic "granny square" motif. If you are feeling adventurous you could make up your own version of the squares to approximately the same size or you could use a variety of colours (in the "granny square" tradition) to use up wool oddments.

Motif

With Gold (G) make 4 ch, join into ring with slip stitch (ss).

1st round: in G, 3 ch, 11 tr into ring. [12 sts]
2nd round: in Red (R), join with Ss to top of ch, (3 ch, 2 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr), all in next stitch, miss 2 stitches, * (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr,) all in next stitch, miss 2 stitches, repeat from * 3 times; join with Ss to top of ch
3rd round: in Cream (C), 3 ch, 2 tr, in space between last tr and ch of previous round, (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) all in next ch sp, * 3 tr in SP between 2 groups, (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) all in next ch SP, repeat from * 3 times; join with Ss to top of ch
Fasten off.


Handbag

Make 10 motifs.
Join motifs as follows: wrong sides to inside, place 2 motifs together.
With C, make loop round hook (as if starting a chain), insert hook through corner ch SP of each motif and draw loop through, then draw
loop through loop on hook (this fastens the yarn to the work). Insert hook through both loops of next stitch of each motif and draw loop through, (this joins the motifs together), and draw the loop through
loop on hook, (this completes the join - you are essentially slip stitching the motifs together).
Continue in this way, ending at ch SP at opposite corner.
Fasten off.

Join remaining motifs in the same way, thus having 5 strips made of 2 motifs each

Now make a square by joining 2 strips together using the slip stitch technique as before. Make another square the same.
You now have two squares made up of 4 motifs and one oblong made up of 2 motifs.

Handbag - main part

[Editor's note: In this section you make diagonal edgings for each side of the square sections of the bag. You end up with another square with the original 4 motifs set "on point" as you can see in the photo.]

With right side facing and Gold (G), join yarn to corner ch SP of one of the squares, and work along first side edge as follows :
1st row: in G, 3 ch, 2 tr in corner ch SP, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr in centre of joining row, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr in corner ch SP [7 groups].
Turn, 1 Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.

2nd row: in Red (R), 3 ch, 2 tr in 1st SP between first 2 groups, 3 tr in
each following SP [6 groups].
Turn, 1 Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.

3rd row: in Cream (C), as 2nd row [5 groups].

Alternating colours as before, work 4 more rows, thus ending 3 ch 2 tr in G worked in SP between 2 groups. [1 group].
Fasten off.

Joining yarn to corner ch SP already used, work along 2nd and 3rd sides of square in the same way, then work along 4th side starting
and ending with corner ch SP already used.

Work the other main part in the same way on the second 4-motif square.

Handbag - flap

[Editor's note: At this point you might think "flap" is an instruction - but it isn't - it' just the description of the piece you are making next. The instruction is "just keep calm and carry on". Crochet is always more difficult to read from a pattern than it is to actually do it.]

With right side facing and G, join yarn to corner ch SP at long side of remaining oblong strip and work as follows:

1st round: in G, 3 ch 2 tr in corner ch SP, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice; 3 tr in centre of joining row; (3 tr in SP between
next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr 1 ch 3 tr in next corner ch SP, (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr 1 ch 3 tr in next corner ch SP Continue in this way all round strip, ending 3 tr 1 ch, in 1st corner ch SP again. Join with Ss to top of ch at the beginning of the round.
2nd round: in R, 3 ch 2 tr in corner ch SP, then - as you did in 1st round - 3 tr in each SP between 2 groups, 3 tr 1 ch 3 tr in each corner ch SP, ending 3 tr 1 ch in 1st corner ch SP again. Join with Ss to top
of ch at beginning of round.
3rd round: in C as 2nd round.
Fasten off.

Handbag - gusset

With G, make 10 ch

1st row: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each following ch
Turn with 3 ch.
2nd row: miss 1st stitch, 1 tr in each following stitch Turn with 3 ch
[ 8 stitches, including turning ch of previous row which counts as 1 tr].

Repeat 2nd row until strip measures 24 inches (61 cm).
Fasten off.

Handbag - to make up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side.
Cut lining as for 2 squares and gusset, allowing ½ inch (1 cm) extra all round for turnings.
Pin gusset round 3 sides of each square; sew in position by stitching tip of each group of main part to edges of gusset .
Sew flap to remaining side of 1 square.
Using G, work 1 row dc, along 3 free sides of flap, working 3 dc in each corner and making a 10 ch loop at each end of long side approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in from the edge - these are the button loops (see photo).

Make twisted cord from 18 strands of remaining yarn, each strand 100 inches (254 cm) long (or however long you want the shoulder strap to be), and attach to top of gusset at each side of bag.

Join lining and place inside bag with seams to inside, turn in raw edges at top and inside flap, and slip hem neatly in position.

Sew on buttons.


Beach bag

Make 55 motifs.
Joining motifs as for handbag, making 11 strips of 5 motifs each

Beach bag - back

Join 6 strips together, thus having an oblong.

Point: With right side facing and using G, join yarn to corner ch SP of oblong and work along 1 short edge as follows:

1st row: in G, 3 ch 2 tr in corner ch SP, * (3 tr in SP between next 2 groups) twice, 3 tr in centre of joining row; repeat from * ending 3 tr in corner ch SP [16 groups].
Turn, Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.
2nd row: in R, 3 ch 2 tr in SP, between first 2 groups, 3 tr in each following SP [15 groups].
Turn, Ss in each of last 3 tr of previous row.
3rd row: in C , as 2nd row [14 groups].

Alternating colours as before, work 13 more rows, thus ending 3 ch 2 tr in G, worked in SP between 2 groups. [1 group].
Fasten off.

Beach bag - flap

Working along opposite edge of oblong, work as for point.
In make a 10 ch loop into centre of last group (button loop).
Fasten off.

Beach bag - front

Join 5 strips together, thus making a square.
Work as for back, making one point for bottom of bag and omitting flap.

Beach bag - to make up

Press as for handbag.

Cut lining as for front and back, allowing ½ inch (1 cm) extra for turnings.
Place back and front together from points upwards, with wrong sides to inside. Using C, work joining row up one side, then work in
dc up side of extra motif of back.
Join second side in the same way.
Work 1 row dc along upper edge of front.
Fasten off.

Using a flat-stitch seam, join points by catching together tips of each group.

Make twisted cord as for handbag and attach to sides.
Line as for handbag.

Using 18 strands of remaining yarn, each strand 12 inches (30 cm) long, make tassel and attach to point.

Sew on button to match loop.

Materials

The yarn is an Aran or worsted weight in balls of 50g.

Handbag:
1 ball each in three colours: Cream, Lipstick Red, and Harvest Gold.
2 buttons.
½ yard lining fabric.

Beach bag:
4 in Cream, 3 in Lipstick Red and 2 in Harvest Gold.
1 buttons.
1 yard lining fabric.

One No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

Tension

One motif measures approximately
2¾ x 2¾ inches,
(7cm x 7cm)

Size matters

Hand bag:
About 8 inches (20cm) square.

Beach bag:
About 14 inches (36cm) wide and 20 inches (51cm) high.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
Ss: slip stitch
SP: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Capstan - an Aran weight yarn knitting to a tension of 18 sts to 4 inches. No clues as to the yardage but it was a fairly dense pure wool so I would not expect it to have a long yardage.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2016

The Fringe of Fashion

FringedWaistcoat.jpg

Fringes appeared everywhere last year so this may still have a place this summer. The seventies photo is delightful - a sophisticated peasant style making you long for an adventurous getaway to foreign climes - you can feel that heat.
However the editors haven't quite caught up in the ways of modern copy to match...
"... a dashing little crochet vest to wear in many ways."

Instructions.

The pattern is given in one size.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the underarm.

Back and Fronts

Using 2 balls of yarn and working with yarn doubled, make 128 ch

Foundation row: 1 dtr in 6th ch from hook, * miss 1 ch, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch; repeat from * to end.

1st row: 1 dc in 1st stitch, * miss next 3 stitches (that is: 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch), 8 ch, 1 dc in next stitch; repeat from * working last dc in 4th of 5 turning ch, turn with 10 ch (work into 3rd of 4 turning ch here on all following 1st pattern rows).
2nd row: 1 dc in 1st ch loop, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, 4 ch, make long stitch in last dc as follows: (yrh) 4 times, insert hook into last dc and draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through 2 loops on hook) 5 times.
[Editor's note: This long stitch is simpler than it looks - you make it in the same way you would a treble or double treble or triple treble - just start with 5 wraps on the hook as it tells you.]
3rd row: 1 dc in 1st stitch, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, turn with 4 ch.
4th row: 1 dtr in 1st ch sp, 1 ch, 1 dtr in 1st dc, * 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows form pattern.
Repeat them 3 times more, then rows 1 to 3 again.

Divide for armholes as follows:

Next row: 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, (1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc) 6 times, turn.

Continue for right front, shaping armhole and neck as follows :

**
1st row: as 1st pattern row, omitting turning ch.
2nd row: 1 ss in 1st dc, 1 Ss in 3 ch of next ch loop, 1 dc in same ch loop, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: 1 Ss in 1st dc, 1 Ss in first 3 ch of next ch loop, 1 dc in same loop, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch loop; repeat from * to end, turn with 4 ch.
4th row: as 4th pattern row.
**
Repeat the last 4 rows twice more, after which you have 5 stitches = 4 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr.
Fasten off.

Continue for back as follows:

Leaving 7 stitches unworked, rejoin double yarn to next dc, make 4 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, (1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc.) 12 times, turn.

Work the 4 rows as for right front from ** to ** then repeat these 4 rows twice more: after which you have 29 stitches = 4 ch, 1 dtr, (1 ch, 1 dtr) 13 times.
Fasten off.

Continue for left front as follows:

Leaving 7 stitches unworked, rejoin double yarn to next dc, make 4 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc, * 1 ch, 1 dtr in next ch SP, 1 ch, 1 dtr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

To prevent heavy pressing and use of a hot iron, either of which could be injurious to the fabric, light pressing may be suitable as follows:

Block each piece by pinning out round edges and press using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth.

Join shoulder seams.

With double yarn, work 1 row dc along front and neck edges.
Work 1 round dc along armhole edge.

For the front ties: Make two lengths of ch. 20 inches (51 cm) long and sew one to each side of front, level with armhole division.

Fringes: Cut remaining yarn into 12 inch (30 cm) strips and taking 6 strands together each time, knot through lower edge, placing
each fringe in a chain space.

Materials

6 50g balls DK in white with the yarn used double throughout (see A Word on the Wool)

Crochet hook No
5 (5½mm)

Tension

One pattern (4 rows) is 2½ inches (6cm).

Size matters

To fit chest:
34 - 37 inches, (86 - 94 cm);
length from top of shoulders, 21½ (54 cm) without fringes.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space
L: loop
yrh: yarn round
hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Patons marketed two different yarns called Promise in different eras both DK equivalents. This pattern, being crocheted and from the 1970s, is the earlier manifestation - a smooth yarn "with Tricel" sold in 50g balls. [The later yarn marketed in the 1980s was a fluffy acrylic with a good yardage, thus sold in 40g balls].
Potentially any double knitting quality can be used (knitting tension would be about 22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches or 10 cm). However, working with the yarn doubled can be difficult, especially in crochet, so I would be inclined to look for a chunky cotton type yarn to substitute and use it single strand - although the choice may be more limited.

June 2016

Anyone for Tennis?

TennisDress.jpg

This is a knitted dress with crochet insets.....
"... to line up the prettiest back view".

No denying the charm of this dress (and model) though sadly I need them to be a little less revealing these days. But in the words of my 82 year old aunt - at the height of the mini skirt fashion when I was 13 - "well if I had legs like yours I'd bloomin' well show 'em off!".

Instructions.

Special cluster stitch as follows:
[Editor's note: You will probably find this stitch easier to execute when you try it as opposed to how it appears on paper.]

Make Cluster:
(yrh) twice, insert hook in next tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice, * (yrh) twice, insert hook into same tr, yrh, draw loop through, (yrh, draw loop through first 2 loops on hook) twice *; repeat from * to * twice more, draw a loop through all 5 loops on hook.

Front

Using size 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 156 (164 : 172 : 180) stitches and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until front measures 1½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14) k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11: 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [132 (144 : 152 : 160) stitches ]

Next row: {k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice.
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 84 (92 : 100 : 104) stitches remain, ending with a decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only :
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: {k - (11 : 13 : -)}, k2togtbl, knit to last - (13 : 15 : -) stitches, k tog., k - (11 : 13 : -). [84 (90 : 98 : 104) stitches

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until front measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 114 (120 : 128 : 134) stitches, ending with an increase row.
Work 11 rows straight.

Shape armhole and divide for neck:

Next row: cast off 4, k 51 (54 : 58 : 61), k2tog, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.

Continue on these 52 (55 : 59 : 62) 52/55/59/62 stitches for the first side as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 37 (40 : 41 : 44) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 25 (26 : 27 : 28) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at neck edge on every alternate row until 21 (22 : 22 : 23) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight.

Now decrease at the neck edge on the next and every following 4th row until 16 stitches remain.

Work straight until armhole measures 7 ( : 8 : ) inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6 stitches.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches, k2tog, knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Left Back

With No 10 needles, cast on 61 (65 : 69 : 73) stitches, and starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until back measures 1½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows 5 (4 : 4 : 4) times more. [49 (55 : 59 : 63) sts]

Next row: knit to last 24 (26 : 30 : 32) stitches, {k2tog, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14)} twice. Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until 25 (29 : 33 : 35) stitches remain, ending with an decrease row.

2nd and 3rd sizes only: Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k. to the last - (11 : 13 : -) stitches, k2tog, k - (11 : 13 : -). 25 (28 : 32 : 35) sts]

ALL SIZES:
Work a few rows straight until back measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: knit to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, ml, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14). Work 3 rows straight.

Repeat the last 4 rows until there are 35 (38 : 42 : 45) stitches.
Work 3 rows straight.

Continue shaping bodice and at the same time shape back slope as follows:

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k 10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row
: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: k2tog , knit to end.
Work 1 row straight.

Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Work 2 rows straight.
Next row: k2tog , k. to last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14).
Work 2 rows straight.

Next row: purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: knit to the last 10 (11 : 13 : 14) stitches, m1, k.10 (11 : 13 : 14) [34 (37 : 41 : 44) sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at back slope on the next and every following
3rd row until 30 (33 : 37 : 40) stitches remain.

Continue shaping back slope and shape armhole as follows:

Next row: knit.
Next row: cast off 4, purl to end.

Continue decreasing at back slope on next and every following 3rd row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on every row until 14 (17 : 18 : 21) stitches remain.

Now decrease at the armhole edge on every alternate row and continue decreasing at back slope as before until 4 (5 : 6 : 8) stitches remain.

Keeping armhole edge straight, continue decreasing at back slope as before until 2 stitches remain.
Work 2 rows straight.
P2tog and fasten off.

Right Back

Work to correspond with the left back, reversing shapings.
Your 1st decrease row on the skirt will read:
{k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), k2togtbl} twice, knit to end.

Your increase row on bodice will read:
k 10 (11 : 13 : 14), m1, knit to end.

Crochet border

With No 11 (3mm) hook, make 340 (356 : 372 : 388) chain.

1st row (right side facing): 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, * 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, *1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 Cl. (CL = cluster - see start of instructions) in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 4 ch, {1 tr in next 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of last 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, {1 tr in next tr, 1 ch} twice; repeat from *, ending last repeat 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, {1 ch, 1 tr in next tr} twice, 1 ch; repeat from * ending last repeat, 1 ch, 1 tr in last tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

This completes lower edge border, do not break yarn.

Sewing in position as you go along, work left back border as follows:

1st row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, turn.
2nd row:: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 1 dc in top of CL, 1 dc in next 5 ch SP, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
3rd row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
4th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 CL in 2nd of 3 dc, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
5th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in top of CL, {1 ch, miss next ch, 1 tr in next ch} twice, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.
6th row: 4 ch, miss first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Rows 2 to 6 inclusive, form border pattern.

Continue in pattern until border fits up left back edge to top of slope, when slightly stretched.
Then continue in crochet pattern beyond the end of the knitted piece until back matches front at armhole edge (see photo), ending with 2nd, 4th or 5th pattern row.
Fasten off.

Work right back border as follows:

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to 9th stitch in from left-hand edge of bottom border and make 4 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 CL in next tr, 5 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd of 4 ch.

Finish to correspond with left border.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder and side seams, then join border to lower edge.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, work 1 round dc all round armhole.

Work picot edging as follows:
Next round: * 1 dc in next 3 dc, {ss, 4 ch, Ss} in next dc; repeat from * all round armhole, join with Ss in first dc Fasten off.

Neck, Back and Lower Edge Border: With right side facing and No 12 (2½mm) hook, start at left back lower edge and work 1 row dc up
left back, all round neck, down right back and along lower edge, increasing and decreasing to ease round corners as required.
Join with Ss in first dc.

Next round: Work in dc to a point level with the start of the back slope shaping, then work picot edging up to shoulder, all round neck and down right back to point level with the start of back slope shaping.

Then finish by working in dc to lower edge, working 16 button loops.
First mark the position of the buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond - the first is to come over next 2 stitches, and the 16th to come 2 inches above lower edge, and the remainder spaced evenly.

To make a button loop: Work 3 ch, miss 2 dc.

Now work picot edging along lower edge, join with Ss in first dc.
Fasten off.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 (5 : 6 : 6) x 50g balls of 4 ply crepe in white.

Pair No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Crochet hooks Nos
11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm) needles.

16 buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch.
Crochet Border: 2 pattern repeats measure 4¼ inches in width.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches, 81 (86 : 91 : 97) cm;
length from top of shoulders, 29 (29½ : 30 : 30½) inches, 74 (75 : 76 : 77) cm.

Abbreviations:

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

ch: chain
CL: make cluster (see instructions)
tr: treble crochet
dc: double crochet
yrh: double crochet
SP: space
Ss: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Limelight 100% acrylic - knits as 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


This is styled reminiscent of the astonishingly popular seventies photo depicting the back view of a female tennis player (or more accurately "a student in tennis whites").

FionaButler.jpg

And not forgetting, the year after this photo was taken, we were all inspired by British tennis as Virginia Wade won the 1977 ladies singles at Wimbledon (without having to reveal her bottom).

WadeWins.jpg

I was unable to watch the match as I was working during my student summer break - but in the evening at Victoria railway station - where they had only just installed the new electronic announcement boards - I read "Wade wins Wimbledon 4-6, 6-3, 6-1" demonstrating the sense of elation felt by all since this was a pretty unusual departure from the norm for good old British Rail at that time...

April 2016

Seafarers' Sweaters

This has to be a favourite for me, combining a boating theme with navy and white.
It is a pattern from the seventies but was quite a new idea - a forerunner of those drop shoulders and cowl neck designs which were so ubiquitous in the eighties - and seemingly popular now.

Instructions.

Instructions for six sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in two colours (dark and light) - Navy is represented by D (dark) and Cream represented by L (light).

Back

With No 9 needles and yarn D, cast on 84 (92 : 97 : 100 : 108 : 112) stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
2nd row:
k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows until rib measures 3 inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 5 needles and knit 1 row, increasing 1 stitch at centre:. [85 (93 : 97 : 101 : 109 : 113) sts]

Join in yarn L, and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: right side facing, in L, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4), sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, * k7, sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, k6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4).
2nd row: in L, knit.
3rd row: in D, k 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, * k9, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches, k7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5).
4th row: in D, knit.
5th-16th row: as 1st-4th rows worked 3 times.

17th row: in L, sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k7, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 4 times, k 7 ; repeat from * to last 7 (3 : 5 : 7 : 3 : 5) stitches , sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
18th row: : in L, knit.
19th row: in D, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times, k9, * sl1, {k1, sl1} 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 6 (2 : 4 : 6 : 2 : 4) stitches, {k1, sl1} 3 (1 : 2 : 3 : 1 : 2) times.
20th row: in D, knit.
21st-32nd rows: as 17th-20th rows worked 3 times.

These 32 rows form pattern. Repeat them until back measures 15 (15 : 15 : 16 : 16 : 16) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [75 (83 : 87 : 91 : 99 : 103) sts].

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until back measures 23 (23 : 24 : 25 : 26 : 26) inches, ending with right side facing

Shape shoulders by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 51 (59 : 63 : 67 : 75 : 79) stitches remain.
Cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 5 (5 : 4 : 6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Slip the remaining 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back to start of armhole shapings.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33), slip these stitches on a spare needle, cast off 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) stitches, pattern to end.

Continue on these last 23 (25 : 26 : 28 : 31 : 33) stitches for the first side and work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by decreasing 1 stitch at end of next row, then at the same edge on every row until 11 (13 : 14 : 16 : 19 : 21) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, then cast off 3 (4 : 5 : 5 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin appropriate yarn colour to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 9 needles and D, cast on 40 (40 : 44 : 44 : 48 : 48) stitches and work 3 inches in rib as for back, ending with wrong side facing.

Change to No 5 needles.
Next row: k2, m1, {k9 (9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 11), m1) 4 times, k2. [45 (45 : 49 : 49 : 53 : 53) sts].

Join in L and pattern 4 rows as for 2nd (2nd : 3rd : 3rd : 4th : 4th), size of back.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73 : 81 : 81 : 89 : 89) stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve measures 17½ (17½ : 18½ : 19 : 20 : 20) inches down centre, ending with right side facing.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 83 (83 : 91 : 91 : 99 : 99) stitches. Break L.

Change to No 9 needles.
Next row: in D, knit, increasing 5 stitches evenly across row. [88 (88 : 96 : 96 : 104 : 104) sts].

Work 7 rows rib as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side following instructions on the ball band and omitting ribbing.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar:

With right side facing, using the set of four (or circular) No 9 needles and D, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 29 (33 : 35 : 35 : 37 : 37) from back decreasing 1 stitch at centre, then pick up and knit 50 (50 : 55 : 55 : 60 : 60) stitches down left side of neck. [128 (132 : 144 : 144 : 156 : 156) sts].

Divide stitches evenly on 3 needles to facilitate working.
Work backwards and forwards, starting with 2nd row, and rib 42 (48 : 52 : 52 : 56 : 56) rows as for back.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew short edges of collar in position to cast-off stitches on front, overlapping right side on to left for Her sweater and left on to right for His.

Join side seams and sleeve seams up to rib.
Join side edge of rib to cast-off stitches at start of armholes on back and front, then sew cast-off edge of rib to armhole edges.
Press seams.

Materials

Aran weight yarn: 10 (11 : 12 : 13 : 14 : 15) 50g balls in Navy and 6 (7 : 7 : 8 : 8 : 9) in Cream.

A pair each of Nos 9 (3¾mm) and 5 (5½mm) needles.
A set of four No 9 (3¾mm) needles - or a circular needle.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 19 sts x 36 rows to 4 ins measured over pattern on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches, 86 (91 : 97 : 102 : 107 : 112) cm.
Length from top of shoulders: 25 (25 : 26 : 27 : 28 : 28) inches, 63 (63 : 66 : 69 : 71 : 71) cm.
Length of sleeve at centre: 19½ (19½ : 20½ : 21 : 22 : 22) inches, 49 (49 : 52 : 53 : 56 : 56) cm.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch purlwise with yarn at back.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Capstan - an Aran weight yarn knitting to a tension of 18 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch. No clues as to the yardage but it was a fairly dense pure wool so I would not expect it to have a long yardage

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2016

Duck Slippers for Easter

DucksSlippers.jpg

Cute little slippers with ducklings, or kittens.
Easy and quick to knit, with their very effective little pom-pom heads.
[I'm guessing that with a little adaptation you could close in the top of the slippers and stuff them to make tiny duckling toys - if you are feeling adventurous....?!]

Instructions

There are two sizes with instructions for the second size given in brackets.

Both versions:

Using either yellow (for duckling) or white (for kitten) and No 9 needles, cast on 20 (26) stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): sl1, k8(11), p2, k9(12)
2nd row: sl1, k9(12), m2 (1), k10(13)
3rd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k2(1), p1, k9(12)
4th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k2(1), m1, k10(13)
5th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k4(3), p1, k9(12)
6th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k4(3), m1, k10(13)
7th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k6(5), p1, k9(12)
8th row: sl1, k9(12), m1, k6(5), m1, k10(13)
9th row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(7), p1, k9(12). [28(33) sts]

2nd size only
10th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(7), m1, k-(13)
11th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(9), p1, k-(12)
12th row: sl1, k-(12), m1, k-(9), m1, k-(13)
13th row: sl1, k-(11), p1, k-(11), p1, k-(12). [28(37) sts]

Both sizes - continue as follows:

1st row: sl1, knit to end.
2nd row: sl1, k8(11), p1, k8(11), p1, k9(12).

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2½ (3) inches ending with a 1st row.

Next row: sl1, {m1, k3}, 2(3) times, m1, k2, p1, {k2, m1} 3(4) times, k 2(3), p1, k2, {m1, k3} 2(3) times, m1, k1. [37(49) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 4½ () inches ending with right side facing.

Next row: k1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 1(2) times,rib 5, {k2tog} 1(2) times, p1, k1 p1, {k2tog} 5(7) times, k1.

Next row: rib 1(2), {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, rib 1, {p2tog} twice, p1, {p2tog} 3(4) times, rib 1(2).

Next row: {k2tog} 3(2) times, {k3tog} 1(3) times, {k2tog} 3 times. [7(8) sts]

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches; draw up tightly and fasten off securely.
Join toe seam along to start of garter stitch. Fold cast-on edge in half and join heel seam.

Completing the Duckling version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining yellow yarn, each 1½ inches in diameter.
[Editor's note: You can see how to make pom-poms in one of my other entries in 2013.]

Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 small circles of blue felt for eyes and sew to each side of the heads, ensuring that the needle passes through the centre of each pom-pom to keep the eyes secure.
Cut 2 beaks of yellow felt, fold in half and oversew along fold. Sew the beak in position to the centre front of the pom-poms, pushing fold of beak in towards centre of pom-pom and sewing in place securely.

Completing the Kitten version:

Make 2 pom-poms with remaining white yarn each 1½ inches in diameter. Trim to neaten and sew one to the front of each slipper.
Cut 4 triangles of pink felt for ears and sew one to each side on top of the heads with one point upwards, ensuring needle passes through the centre of the pom-pom to make the ears secure.
Cut 4 small ovals of blue felt for eyes and sew in position.
Cut 2 very small triangles of pink felt for nose and sew to centre front of face.
Thread 2 Strands of pink yarn through pompon from side to side of
face for whiskers, and trim. (See photo).

Materials

Duckling version:
1 x 50g ball in yellow.
Kitten version:
1 x 50g ball in white with scraps of pink for whiskers.

Pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Scraps of yellow, pink, and blue felt.

Tension

23sts x 48 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit 5-5½ (6-6½) sock size.

Abbreviations:

sl1: slip a stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.
m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the back of it.
m2: make 2 stitches by picking up the loop lying before the next stitch and knitting into the front and back of it.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2016

Soft knit sash cardigan

SashCardigan.jpg

Cosy and snug wrap cardigan with a sash belt. I would probably knit it for myself as shown, but it may be more stylish if worn longer or over-sized and perhaps without pockets.

The original yarn was a soft heathered and slightly fluffy Shetland type. I think this would be lovely knitted in the hand-dyed yarn available from the Little Grey Sheep.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 4 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets.

Note: Where a number of stitches is given, this refers to the basic number and does not include those made in the pattern.

[Editor's note: I have copied the note above from the original pattern - it will make more sense when you start knitting as the the number of stitches you end up with at the end of each row increases and decreases as part of the pattern stitch.]

Back

With No 11 needles, cast on 112 (120 : 126 : 132) stitches, and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15), {ml, rib 14 (15 : 15 : 15)} 6 (5 : 6 : 6) times, ml, rib to end. [119 (126 : 133 : 139) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches , Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
3rd row:as 1st.
4th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, (k1, yfwd) twice, k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
5th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p5, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, p5, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
6th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, k2, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
7th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p7, k6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, p7, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
8th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, k3, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
9th row: k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p9, k6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches. p9, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
10th row: k 1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 13 (12 : 11 : 14) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
11th row: as 7th.
12th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 11 (10 : 9 : 12) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.
13th row: as 5th.
14th row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (8 : 7 : 10) stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

These 14 rows form pattern for back.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures approximately 18 inches, ending with 14th pattern row.

Keeping continuity of pattern shape armholes as follows:

Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), k4 (1 : 7 : 1), * p3, k6 repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), *
Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p4 (1 : 7 : 1), k 1
Next row: k5 (2 : 8 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 8 (5 : 11 : 5) stitches, p 3, k5 (2 : 8 : 2).

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Cast off remaining 39 (40 : 41 : 43) stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 9 needles, cast on 30 stitches and work 29 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row
Next row: k6, (ml, k6) 4 times. [34 stitches].
Leave these stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**
With No 11 needles, cast on 54 (58 : 62 : 64) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 9 (11 : 15 : 14), {ml, rib 12 (12 : 16 : 12)} 3 (3 : 2 : 3) times, ml, rib to end: [58 (62 : 65 : 68) stitches]
*
*

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k6 (2 : 6 : 6), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, p3, k4 (3 : 2 : 5).
2nd row: k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches , Tw3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work a further 27 rows, thus ending with 1st pattern row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of first pocket lining, pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22).

Continue straight in pattern until 14 rows less have been worked than on back to start of armhole shaping, thus ending with 14th pattern row.

Shape front edge as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k4 (9 : 4 : 4), pattern to end.
Next row: pattern to last 8 (13 : 8 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p4 (9 : 4 : 4), k1.
Work 2 rows straight.

Decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on the next and every following 4th row until 54 (58 : 61 : 64) stitches remain, keeping stitches at front edge in reverse stocking stitch as placed.

Work 1 row straight.

Next row: k11 (7 : 11 : 11), pattern to end.

Shape armhole as follows:
Next row: cast off 17 (19 : 21 : 21), p4 (1 : 7 : 1), * Tw3, p6 repeat from * to last 14 (10 : 14 : 14) stitches, Tw3 p10 (6 : 10 : 10), k1.

Keep armhole edge straight and continue to decrease 1 stitch at front edge on next and every following 4th row until 23 (24 : 25 : 27) stitches remain.

Note: When shaping at front edge do not continue panel pattern nearest this edge if there are insufficient stitches to work another complete pattern; instead take stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 (8 : 8 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 7 (8 : 9 : 9) stitches

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * k3, p 6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, k3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Next row (right side facing): k1, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9), stitches, k3, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), k1.

Now continue in pattern as for back Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row (wrong side facing): k4 (3 : 2 : 5), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (5 : 9 : 9) stitches, p3, k6 (2 : 6 : 6).
2nd row: k1, p5 (1 : 5 : 5), * Tw3, p6; repeat from * to last 7 (6 : 5 : 8) stitches, Tw3, p3 (2 : 1 : 4), k1.

Keeping continuity of pattern work a further 27 rows, thus ending after 1st pattern row, with right side facing for next row.

Place pocket lining as follows:

Next row: pattern 13 (18 : 22 : 22), slip next 34 stitches on a stitch-holder and in place of these, pattern across stitches of second pocket lining, pattern 11 (10 : 9 : 12).
Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles, cast on 46 (48 : 50 : 52) stitches and work 2 inches in k1/ p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (7 : 7 : 6), {ml, rib 8 (5 : 4 : 5)} 4 (7 : 9 : 8) times, ml, rib to end. [51 (56 : 60 : 61) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and place pattern panels as follows:

Next row (right side facing): k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * k3, p6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, k3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.
Now continue in pattern as for back. Your first 2 rows will read:

1st row: k6 (4 : 6 : 2), * p3, k6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, p3, k6 (4 : 6 : 2).
2nd row: k1, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), * Tw3, p 6; repeat from * to last 9 (7 : 9 : 5) stitches, Tw3, p5 (3 : 5 : 1), k1.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 12th (10th : 8th : 2nd), and then every following 4th row until there
are 101 (108 : 114 : 121),stitches , taking increased stitches into pattern.
Work straight until sleeve measures approximately 21 inches at centre, ending with 1st pattern row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Join shoulders, side and sleeve seams, leaving 2½ ( : 3 : 3), inches open at the top of sleeve seam; then insert the sleeves sewing rows left free at top along cast-off stitches on back and fronts at start of armholes.

Front Borders

Left: With No 11 needles, cast on 9 stitches and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front and round to centre back of neck, when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go
along. Cast off in rib.

Right: Work to correspond with left, with the addition of 7 buttonholes, first to come ½ inches up from lower edge, 7th at start of neck shaping and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left border with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end, then when knitting the next row back, cast on 3 over those cast off.

[Editor's note: If you are making an over-sized cardigan, you may wish to omit the buttonholes and just have the tie belt for closure.]

Pocket Tops

With right side facing and No 11 needles, k34 stitches from stitch holder, increasing 1 stitch in centre. [35 sts]
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib as for borders.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly on right side and pocket linings lightly on wrong side.

Belt

With No 11 needles, cast on 13 stitches, and work 52 (54 : 56 : 58) inches in rib as for front borders. Cast off evenly in rib.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

11 (12 : 12 : 13) x 50 gram balls Double Knitting in "Heather"

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

2 stitch-holders

7 buttons

Tension

27 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (36 : 38 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 25½ (26 : 26½ : 27) inches; sleeve seam: 21 inches for all sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

Tw3: twist 3 sts by knitting 3rd stitch on left needle, then knit 2nd stitch, then knit 1st stitch and slip all 3 stitches off the needle together.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona. This was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 100 yards per 50g.

It is a slightly heavier weight DK so a worsted might make a good substitute. "Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2016

Blanket Coat

Coatigan1.jpg

....or "coatigan" *.
Shown on a chap but I would like it for me... and let's face it - he looks pretty silly - even for 1976 as I remember it....
It's a very simple knit being made up of rectangles in garter stitch - if I had a loom wide enough I would actually like to have a go at weaving the fabric - but here is the knitted version - plus a man's vest or slipover which is illustrated with it.

[* I believe I am not the only one who hates this word - I am not sure it adds anything much to the meaning but .... it is the jargon of the moment]

Coat Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The original coat was knitted in coloured stripes of garter stitch using a tweedy yarn. The basic design is very simple made up of block rectangles and can easily be knitted in a single colour if preferred.

Left Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 45 (47 : 49) stitches and work 5 rows in garter stitch.

Continue with double yarn and garter stitch and work 2 rows A; 6 rows C. Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, working in stripes as follows:
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C

These 42 rows form the striped pattern. Repeat them 4 times more, then rows 1-24 inclusive again. **

Continue in pattern but shaping neck as follows:
Next row: knit to the last 3 stitches, cast off 3.
Break yarn.

Rejoin yarn at neck edge and keeping side edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge the next 3 rows, then on the following 4 alternate rows, ending at side edge.

Shape shoulder as follows:
1st row: cast off 4 (5 : 6), knit to end
Work one row straight.
3rd row: cast off 5, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Work 1 row straight
5th row: cast off 5, knit to end.
Work 1 row
7th row: as 3rd row.

Now cast of 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 6) stitches.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Next row: Cast off 3, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with left front reversing shapings.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles and using yarn C double, cast on 95 (99 : 103) stitches. Continue with double yarn and work 5 rows in C; 2 rows A; 6 rows C.
Break off C and one strand of A.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles and continue in garter stitch with single yarn, continue in garter stitch striped pattern as for left front.

Work straight until back measures same as front to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending with same row as left front.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 5 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, then 4 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 29 stitches.

Sleeves

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 105 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until sleeve measures 7 inches, ending with a 1st row.

Next row: k2 * k2tog, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k3. [90 sts]

Join in A and work in garter stitch striped pattern,a s given for Left Front, repeating the 42 rows 3 times in all, and then rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Cast off.

Right Border (for a man - left border for a woman)

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 15 stitches.

1st row (right side facing): k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until border fits up the front - when slightly stretched - to the start of the neck shaping, ending with a 2nd row.
Cast off in rib, and sew border in position.

Left Border (for a man - right border for a woman)

Work to correspond with right border, with the addition of 6 buttonholes, the first to come 6 inches up from the lower edge and the 6th to come ¾ inch below the start of the neck shaping and the rest spaced evenly in between.

First mark the positions of the buttons on the opposite border, and work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 6, cast off 3, rib to end. On the next row cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

Sew second border in position, taking care that the stripes are level with those on the opposite front.

Pockets (make 2)

With No 6 (5mm) needles and C, cast on 31 stitches and work in garter stitch stripes as follows:

5 rows C
2 rows A
6 rows C
6 rows A
2 rows B
6 rows A
6 rows B
2 rows C
6 rows B
6 rows C
2 rows A

Break off B and A.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and join in an extra strand of C - using C yarn double, knit a further 5 rows.
Cast off knitwise.

Make a second pocket in the same way.

Collar

With No 8 (4mm) needles single yarn C, cast on 113 stitches.

1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows for 7 inches, ending with 2nd row, and cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.
Place a marker at side edges on back and fronts 9 inches down from shoulder seams, then sew cast-off edge of sleeves between markers.
Join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes and reversing seam for cuffs. Turn back 4 inch cuffs and catch in position on sleeve
seam.
Sew cast-on edge of collar to neck edge, starting and ending in centre of front borders.
Fold collar in half to right side and oversew double edges neatly.

Pin pockets on fronts, lower edge of pocket to come at start of 3rd broad stripe in C, 1¼ inches from side seam.
Sew pockets neatly in position taking care to match stripes with main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons

Materials

5 (5 : 6) 50g balls in colour A (beige); 4 (4 : 5) in B (pink); 8 (9 : 9) in C (olive) worsted or DK.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 38 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 34½ ins or 88 cm, all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

A word on the wool.

The original yarns was Patons Bracken Tweed which was a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The original yarn I remember from the 1960s was almost certainly 100% wool; however it seems a later incarnation was with 40% acrylic and it is likely that this pattern refers to that yarn. I can't offer any insights on yardage for either of these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Coatigan2.jpg


Coatigan6.jpg

Here is a version of the coat that I made. I have written copious notes about its construction in a blog entry "The Age of Aquarius"!


CoatiganSlipover.jpg

Slipover Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The slipover is worked in one colour.

Front

**
With No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 103 (107 : 113) stitches.

1st row: k2 * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows for 4 inches, ending with a 2nd row.

Change to No 6 (5mm) needles.

Next row (right side facing): knit 5 (7 : 4), k2tog, * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 (8 : 5) stitches, knit to end. [87 (91 : 95) sts]

Continue in garter stitch and work straight until front measures 16 (16 : 16½) inches ending with right side facing.
**

Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 69 (71 : 73) stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Continue shaping armhole and shape neck as follows:

Next row: k2tog, k32 (33 : 34). Turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 33 (34 : 35) stitches only for the first side, and work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 27 (28 : 29) stitches remain.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 4th row until 16 (17 : 18) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 25 (25 : 25½) inches, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 4 (4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4 (4 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **.
Shape armholes by casting off 5 (6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 67 (69 : 71) stitches remain, and then on every following 4th row until 61 (63 : 65) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front to shoulder at armhole edge.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:
Cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 4, k11 (11 : 12), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

1st row: k2tog, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast off 4, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 4 (5 : 5) stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 23 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side.

To Make Up

Press as for coat. Join right shoulder seam.

Neck Border:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left side of neck, k1 from safety pin, (mark this stitch), pick up and knit 53 stitches up right side, then 5 down shaped edge of back, k23 from spare needle, increasing 4 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 5 up left edge of back neck. [145 sts].

1st row (wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of centre marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to within 2 stitches of marked stitch, p2tog, k1, p2tog tbl, k1 ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more, and then 1st row again.
Cast off in rib decreasing at centre stitch as before.

Join left shoulder seam and border.

Armhole Borders:
With No 8 (4mm) needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 116 (118 : 120) stitches all round each armhole.
Work in 7 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.

Press seams.

Materials

Materials

6 (6 : 7) 50g balls in colour A (beige) worsted or double knitting.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

The tension is given as 18sts and 32 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch using 5mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 30 (40 : 42) inches or 97 (102 : 107) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 25 (25 : 25½) inches or 63 (63 : 65) cm.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

garter stitch: every row knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2015

Santa Claus

Santa1.jpg

So is he a "Santa Claus" or is he a "Father Christmas"? I never thought much about this until my friend Louise (an American) suggested there was a difference; in the ensuing discussion, it seems my guess did not gel with her view. I think she told me that Father Christmas is the traditional old chap and that Santa Claus is one in red with the white trim.
Anyway - which ever he is, I'm sure he'll make a nice little seasonal knitted toy.
This example knitted by my friend Jennie, and if you live around Ewell in Surrey in the UK you can find her work for sale at local craft fares .

Instructions.

Note that: the body is knitted with the yarn doubled (2 strands held together), and the clothes are single.

Body

With white yarn (W) and 3mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 20 stitches and work 3½ inches in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).

Shape shoulders by casting Off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [10 sts].
Work 2 rows straight for neck.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 18 stitches.

Work 14 rows straight for back of head.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 8 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Make another piece the same using but changing to pink (C) for the neck and face.

Join the two halves together and stuff firmly.

Arms (Make 2)

With yarn C, cast on 14 stitches, and work 1 inch in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row. Break off C.

Join in W, and continue until work measures 2½ inches.
Cast off.

Fold in half lengthways and join seam, leaving top open for stuffing. Stuff and sew to body.

Legs (Make 2)

With yarn B, cast on 24 stitches, and work 1 inch in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row: k8, cast off 8, k8 [16 sts]

Work across these 16 stitches for 1 inch, leaving 8 cast-off stitches for toe of boot. Break off B.

Join in yarn W, and continue straight until work measures 3½ in.
Cast off.
Fold in half lengthways and join seams, leaving top open for stuffing. Stuff and sew to body.

Coat (Fronts)

For the left front: with yarn W, cast on 16 stitches, and knit 4 rows. Break off W.

Continue in red (R) and white (W) thus:
1st row: k14 R, k2 W.
2nd row: k2 W, p14 R.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 2½ inches, ending with 2nd row.

Cast on 10 stitches at the beginning of the next row for the sleeve, then work 1 inch straight on these 26 stitches, ending at the neck edge.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row and slip the remaining 19 stitches on a length of wool or stitch holder.

Work the right front to correspond, reversing all shaping.

Coat (Back)

With yarn R, p19 stitches from the from right front, cast on 10 stitches, then p19 from left front.

Continue in stocking stitch for l inch

Cast off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then work 2½ inches, finishing with 4 rows of garter stitch in white (W).

Join side and sleeve seams of coat and fit on body, then join the front edges in white from neck to waist.

Trousers (Make 2)

With yarn W, cast on 30 stitches and k4 rows. Break off W.

Join in yarn R, and work in stocking stitch until piece measures 2½ inches, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until there are 36 stitches.

Continue straight until work measures 5 inches from the start.
Cast Off.

Join seams and fit on body.

Attach garments to body stitching round neck, wrists, waist of trousers and top of boots.

Hood

With yarn W, cast on 36 stitches, and knit 4 rows.
Break off W.

Join in R, and work straight in stocking stitch until piece measures 3½ inches. Then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 4 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Fold in half lengthways and join seam from point to start of shaping.
Fit hood on the head and catch white border all round face; then stitch
the rest of the hood round the neck.

Embroider features

Taking photo as a guide use blue for eyes and black for eyebrows and nose. Make moustache and beard with loops of white, sewing in position.

Belt

With yarn B, cast on 4 stitches, and work 5 inches in garter stitch, (every row knit). Cast Off.
Sew belt in position around the waist.

Sack (not shown in photo)

With white (or any colour of your choosing), cast on 34 stitches and work 3 inches in stocking stitch. Cast off.
Fold in half, then join side and base.

With double yarn (or make a 2-ply twisted rope) gather up sack and sling round shoulder and under arm.

Materials

4ply fingering yarn:
2 oz red (R), 1 oz white (W), and small amounts of pink (C) and black (B); scrap of blue for eyes.

One pair 3mm
knitting needles.

Stuffing.

Tension

No tension is stated (as it's a toy so only consistency matters) but a classic 4ply knits to a tension of 22 sts x 28 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches).

Using the yarn double will produce more like a worsted tension of about 20 sts to 4 inches. However note that this pattern knits the doubled yarn on relatively fine needles to produce a dense fabric so the tension may come out tighter than that.

Size matters

Height 10 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

garter stitch: every row knit

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn specified was Patons Purple Heather 4ply. Depending on what era you purchased it in, it could be pure wool or a blend.

Acrylic yarns tend to have a wide colour range, robust qualities, and are reasonably priced, thus can be very suitable for hard working toys.

Robin make a Premium Acrylic available in 25g balls which can be useful for toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2015

Midi Cardigan

MidiCardigan2.jpg

The trend for the winter is layers of knitwear, including long sleeveless cardigans, worn over knitted dresses, (which I would personally find too warm in this era of stifling central heating in most public spaces). However, there are other ways to wear it especially "between seasons" - and this is a nice example from the seventies, (but not too dissimilar to those around at the moment).

I have seen examples where front and back are split up the sides, which would give it a modern edge; this design is knitted "all in one" up to the armholes but if you are a more experienced knitter you could work out how to make fronts and backs separate up to about mid thigh.

Cardigan Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.
If you want to separate the backs and fronts up to mid thigh, you can do this and knit the first section of the pattern on each piece up to the start of the side shaping. If you do this, you might keep 2 or 3 edge stitches at the sides in garter or moss stitch until they are joined.
Join the pieces on the first "shape sides" row.
Note that you need to ensure the yarn you are using has a suitable drape for this style ie the knitted fabric is not too firm, and you will have to work out how to place the pattern stitches to keep continuity, when you join them.

Pocket linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work 5½ inches in stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p2, m1p, (p6, m1p) 5 times, p2. [40 sts]

Leave stitches on a spare needle and make second pocket lining the same.

Back and Fronts

With No 10 needles, cast on 290 (308 : 326 : 344) stitches and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 8 needles.
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k 10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): pl, * (Tw2L, pl) twice, p6, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k8, pl, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, pl) twice, p4, (p1, Tw2R) twice; p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1, * (k2, p1) twice, k6, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, kl.
5th row: p1, * p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice, k1 : repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: pl, * p3, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p. l, Tw2R) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p.l.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p3, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R., p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: k1, * k3, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
11th row:p1, * p. 3, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p3; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: p1, * p3, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 8th.
15th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 6th.
17th row: p1,* p1, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: as 4th.
19th row: p1,* (p1, Tw2R) twice, p6, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 2nd.
21st row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p6, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
22nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
23rd row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p10, k1, p2, k1,repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
24th row: as 22nd.

Repeat the last 24 rows twice more, then rows 1 to 22 inclusive again.

[Editor's note: If you have knitted fronts and back separate to this point, join them here - on the last or the following row.]

Shape sides as follows:

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2 tog, p6, p2tog, k1,p. 2, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1. [258 (274 : 290 : 306) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p4, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, k 1: repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1,* p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, pl) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p2, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.
10th row: as 8th.
11th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 6th.
13th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 4th.
15th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 2nd.
17th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1 ) twice, p4, (p1 Tw2L) twice; repeat
from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
19th row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 18th.

Repeat the last 20 rows once more, then rows 1 to 12 inclusive again.

Place pocket linings as follows:

Next row: pattern 17, * slip next 40 stitches on a stitch-holder, and in place of these, pattern across 40 stitches of one pocket lining *, pattern to last 57 stitches, repeat from * to *, pattern last 17 stitches.

Work a further 7 rows straight in pattern, then work rows 1 to 18 inclusive again.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, p4, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [226 (240 : 254 : 268) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

**
Continue in pattern as follows:
1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1, * k1, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p1, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, pl.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: pl, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: as 4th.
11th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 2nd.
13th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: p1,* k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 14th.
**

Repeat the last 16 rows once more, then rows 1 to 14 inclusive again.

Next row: as 15th.
Next row: as 14th.

The last 2 rows form bodice pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 35 inches at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck and at the same time divide for fronts as follows:

Next row: cast off 7, pattern 49 (52 : 56 : 59), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for RIGHT FRONT, shaping armhole and neck as follows:
Next row: cast off 8, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 29 (32 : 32 : 35) stitches remain, then at each end of next and every alternate row until, 19 (22 : 22 : 25) stitches remain.

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at armhole edge on following 1 (3 : 2 : 4) alternate rows. [18 (19 : 20 : 21) sts]

Work straight until front measures 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches at centre, ending with wrong side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; cast off 8, pattern 106 (114 : 120 : 128), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a
spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for BACK, shaping armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row, until 86 (94 : 96 : 104) stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row, until 74 (78 : 82 : 86) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Leave remaining 38 (40 : 42 : 44) stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches for LEFT FRONT, cast off 8, pattern to end.

Next row: cast off 7, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Front Borders:

Left: With No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k2, (p1, k 1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k 1) 5 times.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front to start of neck shaping when slightly stretched, ending with 2nd row.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin at top and sew border neatly in position.

Right: Work to correspond with left border with the addition of 12 buttonholes. 1st to come 7½ inches above lower edge, and 12th to come 2¼ inches below start of neck shaping, with the remainder
spaced evenly between. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end; on the next row, cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing and taking care not to over-press and spoil the pattern.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and knit 116 (128 : 128 : 140) stitches round each armhole and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join shoulder seams.

Neck Border: With right side facing and No10 needles, work as follows:
Rib 11 border stitches , pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 38 (40 : 42 : 44) from back decreasing 1 stitch in centre, pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) down left side, rib 11 from left border. [163 (173 : 175 : 185) sts]

Work 1 row k1/p1 rib as for border. Make 13th buttonhole in next 2 rows as before, then work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Tops:

With right side facing and No 10 needles, knit across each set of 40 pocket stitches, decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [39 sts]
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib as for border.
Cast off in rib.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

16 (17 : 19 : 20) 1oz balls in Tweed Grey double knitting yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

13 buttons.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in four sizes to fit chest: 32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches.
Length from top of shoulders 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

Tw2L: purl into back of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Tw2R: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona, which appeared in both 1oz and later 50g balls.It was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 104 yards per 50g.
Note that this pattern calls for 1oz balls (1oz is about 28g).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hat Instructions.

With No 10 needles, cast on 104 stitches, and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Next row: rib 1, m1p, * rib 2, m1p; repeat from * to last stitch, rib 1. [156 sts]

Change to No 8 needles.
1st row:
p1, * k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work 16 rows in pattern as for main part from ** to ** as given in cardigan instructions to make one diamond pattern panel (see photo).
Then repeat 1st and 2nd rows above, 7 times.

Shape crown as follows:
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [145 sts]

Keeping continuity of pattern, work 1 row straight.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch,
p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from last stitch, p1.
Work 1 .row straight. [123 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight. [101 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
[79 sts]
Work 1 row straight.

Change to stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and continue shaping as follows:

Next row: k3, k2tog, * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4 : 68 stitches Next row: purl.
Next row: k3, k2tog , * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches , k3.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, k2tog,* k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. [46 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k2; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from to end. [24 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [12 sts]

Break yarn. Thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly and fasten off.

Press work very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join centre back seam.
Press seam.

Materials

2 x 1 oz balls of double knitting yarn.

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size "to fit an average head".

Abbreviations

As given for cardigan above.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Wraparound Midi Cape

WraparoundCape.jpg

Capes being the thing of the moment (though maybe not quite like this one).
Styled "Edwardian" from the early 1970s - hence the floppy hat and slightly whimsical setting a la Laura Ashley - I might choose to make this somewhat shorter, plain rather than striped, and use a tweed or textured yarn of some sort.

So.... a midi cape - and if that were not wonderful enough... it comes with matching trousers! How great is that?!

Cape Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The cape is knitted in stripes of 3 different yarns - labelled Medium, Light and Dark - the Medium (or Main) colour is a bouclé and the Light (Red) and Dark (Brown) are smooth yarns.

Back

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 92 (98 : 104) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (3 : 6) m1, * rib 6 (7 : 7), m1 ; repeat from * to last 7 (4 : 7) stitches, rib 7 (4 : 7). [106 (112 : 118) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work in stripes as follows:

1st and 2nd rows: in D.
3rd to 6th rows:
in M.
7th and 8th rows: in L.
9th to 12th rows: in M.

These 12 rows form the striped pattern. [Note: Carry yarns loosely up side of work.]

Continue in pattern and work a further 12 rows straight.

Shape sides:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.
Repeat the last 12 rows until 70 (76 : 82) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 32 inches (81 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.
Place a marker at each end of last row.

Continue decreasing 2 stitches as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 38 (44 : 50) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30 : 32) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 46 (48 : 52) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 (3 : 3) m1, * rib 8 (7 : 9), m1 ; repeat from * to last 3 (3 : 4) stitches, rib 3 (3 : 4). [52 (55 : 58) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping side edge as follows:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to end.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 34 (37 : 40) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back to marker, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Now decrease 1 stitch as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Continue decreasing at the side edge on every 4th row from previous decrease, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 9 (13 : 16) stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the side edge as before, but on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time continue decreasing at neck edge on the next and following 1 (3 : 5) alternate rows. [5 (5 : 4) stitches remain].

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at side edge as before on following 2 (2 : 1) alternate rows. [3 sts]

Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, k2tog.
Next row: p2.
Next row:
k2tog.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'togtbl' when shaping side edge.

Side Panels (make 2)

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 80 (84 : 88) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 1 (3 : 5), m1, * rib 7, m1 ; repeat from * last 2 (4 : 6) stitches, rib 2 (4 : 6). [92 (96 : 100) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles, and stocking stitch, and starting with a knit row, work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping sides as follows:

Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2togtbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 56 (60 : 64) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until work matches back to markers, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Continue decreasing as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 28 (32 : 36) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 10 stitches remain all sizes.
Work 1 row straight.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Make a second side in the same way.

Left Front Border

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 9 sts.

1st rows (right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 4 times.

Repeat the last 2 rows until the strip fits up the left front to the start of the neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a safety-pin at the top and sew border in position.

Right Front Border

Work to correspond with the left border with the addition of 13 buttonholes. The first buttonhole is to come 4 inches (10 cm) up from the lower edge, and the 13th is 2 inches (5 cm) below the start of the neck shaping; the remainder are spaced evenly between.

First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.
Pin side panels to back; join panels up to markers matching stripes carefully, then join the remainder of the seam.

In the same way, join the front panels to side panels, leaving 9 inch (23 cm) slits for hands, bottom of slit to come 18½ inches (47 cm) up from the lower edge.
[Editor's note: If you are making a shorter cape you will need to work out where you need to put the slits for the arms.]

Right Slit Border:
With No 10 needles and M, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the front edge of the slit and work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Left slit border: work to correspond.

Neck Border:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and M, work as follows:

Rib 9 from right border, pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) stitches up right side of neck, k10 from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, 28 (30 : 32) stitches from back decreasing 3 stitches evenly, 10 stitches from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, then pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) down left side, and finally rib 9 from left border. [91 (95 : 99) stitches.

Work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows as before, then work 12 rows. Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows, then work 4 rows in rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Fold neck border in half to the wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position all round. Oversew loosely round double buttonhole.

Catch down short ends of slit borders neatly to main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

13 (13 : 14) 50g balls in a bouclé DK yarn M (Terrazo), and 3 (3 : 4) 50g balls each DK yarn D (Loam Brown) and yarn L (Red Earth).

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

14 buttons and 2 press studs

Tension

The tension is given as 20sts and 30 rows to 4 inches overall using the striped pattern on No 8 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 32-34 (34-38 : 40-42) inches or 81-86 (91-96 : 101-106) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 41½ (42 : 42½) inches or 105 (106 : 108) cm.

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarns were: Patons Totem - a standard double knitting using 4mm needles, and:
Patons Camelot (about which there is some misleading information on the web); it is a bouclé yarn knitted on 4mm needles with a stated tension of 19 sts to 4 inches - which makes it a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The pattern knits these yarns alternately in stripes and this overcomes their differences. In substituting I would look for any DK or worsted weight that I liked and experiment with needle sizes to get the stated tension.

I can't offer any insights on yardage for these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


WraparoundCape2.jpg

Trousers Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The trousers are worked in one colour.

Left Leg

**
With No 10 needles, cast on 86 (90 : 96 : 100 : 106 : 110) stitches, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 4 (6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 6), m1, * rib 11 (11 : 12 : 12 : 13 : 14), m1; repeat from * to last 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6) stitches, rib 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6). [94 (98 : 104 : 108 : 114 : 118) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until leg measures 25 (25 : 25½ : 25½ : 26 : 26) inches (63 (63 : 65 : 65 : 66 : 66) cm), ending with right side facing.

Shape leg as follows:

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 45 (47 : 50 : 52 : 55 : 57), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 47 (49 : 52 : 54 : 57 : 59), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 49 (51 : 54 : 56 : 59 : 61), m1, k1) twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 (100 : 106 : 110 : 116 : 120) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 74 (78 : 88 : 92 : 102 : 106) stitches remain; then on every following 6th row until 66 (70 : 76 : 80 : 86 : 90) stitches remain.
**

Work 1 row straight.

***

Shape back as follows:

1st row: k29, turn.
2nd row and every alternate row: purl to end.
3rd row: k24, turn.
5th row: k19, turn.
7th row: k14, turn.
9th row: k9, turn.
11th row: k4, turn.
13th row: knit across all stitches picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and working it together with the next stitch to avoid a hole.

Change to No. 10 needles and work 1 inch (2 cm) k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Right Leg

Work as for left leg from ** to **.
Then work from *** to end, reading 'p' for 'k' and 'k' for 'p'.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.

Joint front, back and inside leg seams.
Press seams.

Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew to the inside of the waist ribbing using herringbone-stitch over the over the elastic to form a casing.

Materials

10 (10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 12) 50g balls of bouclé double knitting yarn (colour Terrazo)

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist of Trousers.

Tension

19 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

The pattern is given in six sizes to fit hips:

34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches;
[86 (91 : 96 : 101 : 106 : 111) cm].
Length of inside leg seam:
28 (28 : 28½ : 28½ : 29 : 29) inches;
[71 (71 : 72 : 72 : 73 : 73) cm].

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2015

Festival Bag

FestivalBag2.jpg

Festival season is well under way so I am posting this a little early - too late for Glastonbury but in time for WOMAD if you are a fast knitter (or knit while you are there..!).and Cropredy.
You can use any stitch for the bag that appeals, taking the pattern as a basic shape. You could try a multicoloured honeycomb pattern, or you could combine stripes of different pattern textures. The simplest shape (on the left) is the type I remember with the tasselled handle continuing all down the sides.

Instructions.

Striped bag (left)

Using No 3 needles and main colour A, cast on 36 stitches.
The bag is worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted); begin by knitting 2 rows.
Now pick up your contrast colour B and * knit 2 rows with B, 2 rows with A, 2 rows with B, 6 rows with A, 2 rows with B, 4 rows with A, 2 rows with B.
Repeat from the point marked * * 5 times altogether.
Cast off all the stitches.

To make up the striped bag

If you want to line the bag, cut the lining to the size of the bag, allowing 6mm (½ inch) turnings.
With right sides of bag facing each other, join the side seams.
Join the lining side seams.
Insert the lining and stitch round the top opening of bag.

Cut 6 strands each of A and B into 178cm (70 inch) lengths. Divide the strands into 3 groups and plait together to form a handle, making an overhand knot at each end and leaving the ends to form a tassel.

Stitch the plait in position along the side seams of the bag, having a tassel at each lower edge and leaving the remainder to form the handle.

Sew on one button or bead to the centre of each side of the top edge of the bag.
Make a double figure of eight with yarn A, large enough to fasten over both buttons, and work round the figure with buttonhole stitch.

Shoulder bag (right)

To make this bag you can experiment any textured pattern.
The bag shown is made from a strip worked in bobble stitch

Cast on 62 stitches and start knitting in your chosen pattern.
[Editor's note: work out your tension with your chosen yarn in the pattern you are planning to use , and cast on enough stitches for the width of the bag that you want to make.]

Continue in pattern until the length is about 3 times the height you want the bag to be, allowing up to 2 inches additional for the bottom of the bag. The bag shown was knitted 76cm (30 inches) long.

For the strap, cast on 11 stitches and work 106cm (42") in single rib.

Finishing the shoulder bag

Sew together so that the strap makes a gusset at the sides of the bag. You can optionally line the bag and add a couple of buttons and loops as shown in the Picture.

Textured Pattern stitches

Bobble rib

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 6 plus 2.
1st row (right side): P2, * K1, P2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: K2, * P1, K2, repeat from * to end.
3rd row:. P2, * K1, P2, (P1, K1, P1, K1) all into next st, this is done without removing the stitch you are working into until the 4 stitches have been — called M4 — P2, repeat from * to end.
[Editor's note: try to make these stitches fairly loose.
4th row:. K2, * K6, P1, K2, repeat from * to end.
5th row: P2,* K1, P2, (P4 then turn both needles round as if you are starting a new row and knit these 4 sts, turn work round and P these 4 sts — called B4 —), P2, repeat from * to end.
6th row: K2, * bring yarn to front of work, and insert right hand needle through the next 4 sts on the left hand needle from right to left and purl these 4 sts tog—called P4tog — K2, P1, K2, repeat from * to end.
7th row: As 1st row.
8th row:
As 2nd row.
9th row:. P2, * M4, P2, K1, P2, repeat from * to end.
10th row:. K2, * P1, K8, repeat from * to end
11th row: P2, * B4, P2, K1, P2, repeat from * to end.
12th row:. K2,* P1, K2, P4tog, K2, repeat from * to end.
These 12 rows form the pattern.

Cane basket stitch

Cast on a number of sts divisible by 6 plus 2.

1st row (right side): K2, * P4, K2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P2, * K4, P2, repeat from * to end.
Rep 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: P3, * K2, P4, repeat from * to last 5 sts; K2, P3.
6th row:. K3, * P2, K4, repeat from * to last 5 sts; P2, K3.
Rep 5th and 6th rows once more.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Tassel stitch

Cast on a number of sts divisible by 6 plus 2.
1st row (right side): P2, * K4, P2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: K2,* P4, K2, repeat from * to end.
Rep 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: K2,* insert right hand needle from front to back between 4th and 5th sts on left hand needle, take yarn across back of sts and draw through a loose loop across front of 4 sts and leave on right hand needle, K1, P2, K3, repeat from * to end.
6th row: * P3, K2, bring yarn forward to front of work, insert right hand needle through next st and loop on left hand needle from right to left and purl these 2 sts together to decrease one st — called P2tog — repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
7th row: K3,* P2, K4, repeat from * to last 5 sts, P2, K3.
8th row: P3,* K2 P4, repeat from * to last 5 sts, K2, P3.
Rep 7th and 8th rows once more.
11th row: P2, K3, .* insert right hand needle from front to back between 4th and 5th sts on left hand needle, take yarn across back of sts and draw through a loose loop across front of 4 sts and leave on right hand needle, K1, P2, K3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, K1, P2.
12th row: K2, P4,* K2, P2tog, P3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2.
These 12 rows form the pattern.

You can find more textured stitches in these links:

A different basket stitch and blackberry stitch.

Honeycomb stitch in two colours

Materials

Striped Bag: 200gm (7oz) of uncut rug yarn in main shade A.
100gm (3½oz) in contrast colour B.
One pair No 3 (6½mm) needles.
Two wooden buttons or beads.
Optional lining: 30cm (12 inch) length of 90cm (36 inch) wide fabric.

Textured bag:
About 200gm (7 oz) of double knitting or worsted yarn.
One pair of No 8 (4mm) needles.
Optional lining fabric.

Tension

Striped bag:
About 12 sts to 4 inches

Textured bag:
22-26sts to 4 ins over pattern.

Size matters

Striped bag: 30cm (12 inches) by 25cm (10 inches)

Textured bag: About 25cm (10 inches) high by 23cm (9 inches) wide

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A Word on the Wool

The suggested use of rug wool is good for bags though can be hard on the fingers. Rug yarns are fairly thick - a chunky or bulky yarn equivalent.

Always check the tension and you can make a bag of the exact dimensions you want.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

These types of bag were very popular in the 1970s - I used one instead of a school satchel. Probably the striped bag on the left above is the most stylistically similar to the ones I remember - I might choose different colours!
My own bag - now long lost - was woven in a mixture of dark red and blue. Below is a genuine "gap year" cloth bag from the 1970s which made its way backpacking to the far east and back. It is a mail bag style like the knitted version pictured on the right above.

FestivalBag3.jpg

Below is a detail from the picture. The bag is woven of course but you could reproduce this pattern in knitting and easily add lots of tassels.

FestivalBag3-detail.jpg

The main bag has the stripes running vertically, and the flap has them horizontal. If you want this effect, as it's not easy to knit vertical stripes while keeping the integrity of the fabric, you could use this chart as written for the flap, and then use it to knit the front and bag in one piece from side to side. If you were feeling really confident you could knit front and back (sideways rectangle) then pick up the stitches from the side of the knitting and knit the flap.
So - to do this - before you start - work out your tension and then how large you want the bag to be. Lets say that it's 12 inches high and 10 inches wide. You need to cast on enough stitches to make 24 inches in the width of your knitting. Then knit stocking stitch in pattern for 10 inches and cast off. At the side of the knitting, pick up stitches for the flap. Usually this means picking up 2 stitches for every 3 rows to make a flat fabric without puckering. Then knit in the pattern for up to 12 inches to cover the front of the bag - if you are adding tassels you might want to knit as little as 4-6 inches.

FestivalBag-chart.jpg

Finally I'll leave you to extemporise on the handle and tassels. You might want to knit a plain handle about 2 inches wide and back it with some kind of webbing - then you would use it as the sides of the bag as you can see our original was made. Or you could just fold the bag without sides and apply a plaited cord handle as for the first bag on the left in these instructions.

You would probably need to use a 4 ply / DK / worsted on a smaller than usual needle to give a solid fabric, and it would be a good idea to line it with something firm.

I'm sure you could also make a simple bag from two woven panels (three for a mail bag) - perhaps made using a fairly crude home-made loom. I am planning to experiment with this in the near future. Watch this space (!).

February 2015

Nice and Easy ... hat and scarf

NiceNEasyHat2.jpg

This is the month for the Sailor's Society** "woolly hat week" (8th-14th February 2015). So I thought I would post this hat and scarf combination - easy to knit in 4 ply fingering weight knitting yarn - perhaps suitable for a sailor if you omit the pom-pom decoration!

You can find other patterns as well as where to send your hats on their website link above. Also see my previous POM from 2008 with other chunky hat patterns - including my all time favourite appropriately knitted in Fisherman's rib.

Here's what Hannah says: "Our international network of port chaplains and ship visitors give your amazing hats out to seafarers visiting port, while others are wrapped and included in the Christmas welfare parcels that are taken on board ship for the festive season. The need for more hats is ever-increasing! Drew, our Port Chaplain in Invergordon, has been known to give out 500 in a day on occasion!"

Instructions

Panels of moss stitch and flag stitch are used for this cosy scarf and pull on hat. The scarf is fringed and the hat trimmed with a large pom-pom.

Scarf

Cast on 72 sts
1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
2nd row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k6, p2; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
4th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k4, p4; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
6th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
8th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, p8; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until scarf measures 167½ cm (66 inches) from beginning, (or however long you want the scarf to be) ending with an 8th pattern row.

Cast off.

To make up the Scarf

Do not press.
Cut yarn into 30½ cm (12 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe into every alternate stitch along cast on and cast off edges.

Hat

Cast on 144 stitches.

Work in pattern as given for scarf, but without the moss stitch border on both sides. So set out your rows as follows:

1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * end.
2nd row: * k6, p2; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k4, p4; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to end.
6th row: * k2, p6; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p8; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.

Continue until work measures 25½ cm (10 inches) from beginning, ending with an 8th pattern row.

Shape crown

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, p2, ybk, sl 1, yfwd, p2tog, psso, p2; repeat from * to end of row. [126 sts]

Next row: * k4, p2, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k2, sl 1, p2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * to end of row. [108 sts]

Next row: * k1, p3, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [90 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 7, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [72 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [54 sts]

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 18 sts remain. Break off yarn, thread through sts, draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Do not press.
Join back seam reversing 7½ cm (3 inches) at lower edge.
Press seam lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron.
Turn back brim.

Trim with a large pom-pom.

Materials

7 x 50g balls 4 ply (fingering) yarn.

One pair 3¾ mm (UK 9) needles.
[Editors note: If you can't find 3¾ mm needles then you can use 3½ mm .]

Tension

26sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over moss stitch on 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 28 cm (11 inches) wide, by 167½ cm (66 inches) long, excluding fringe
Hat: to fit average adult head, width round crown 56 cm (22 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: purl 2 sts together.

ybk: put yarn to back of work.

yfwd: put yarn to front of work.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1 / k2tog / p2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 stitch).

sl 1, k2tog (p2tog), psso: slip 1, k2tog, (p2tog), pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 2 sts).

moss stitch: knit alternate sts k1/p1 but place the knit stitch over a purl in the row below and the purl stitch over a knit stitch. (Also called "seed stitch").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

NiceNEasyHat3.jpg

** Please note that the Sailors Society does seem to be a religious organisation, which I mention not through any disapproval on my part, but in case you would care to look at their website and ensure its aims do not go against anything you believe in.

November 2014

Poncho Capes - striped or plain...

PonchoCape1.jpg

Ponchos are being cited as a trend at the moment - and also apparently: fringes. So here you have the perfect combination. From the 1970s (of course) this is a rather good plain shape and very simple to knit all in garter stitch - if you like that kind of thing, or yearn to recreate a piece of history.

"See how cool I am with my striped poncho in natural earth tones..."
"Look! What's that over there?"
"Whatever you say, I'm not looking - you are merely trying to compensate for your lack of cool stripeyness."

Instructions.

Instructions given for striped version with pattern rows as follows:

1st - 16th rows: knit in main shade.
17th - 20th rows: knit in contrast.

These 20 rows form the stripe pattern.

The plain version is worked in exactly the same way but using only one colour.

Back and Front (alike)

(Worked sideways, starting at left side for Back and right side for Front).

With No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 58 stitches and joining in contrast (C) as required, work in garter stitch (every row knit) and stripe pattern throughout, starting with 2nd pattern row, shaping as follows:

1st and following alternate rows (wrong side): Knit.
2nd row: Cast on 5 stitches; knit these 5 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: As second row.
6th row: As second row.
8th row: Cast on 4 stitches; knit these 4 stitches, knit to end.
10th row: As 8th row.
12th row: As 8th row.
14th row: Cast on 3 stitches; knit these 3 stitches, knit to end.
16th row: Cast on 2 stitches; knit these 2 stitches, knit to end.
17th row: Knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, and at the same edge on every row until there are 106 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row, until there are 112 stitches.

Work 3 rows.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every 4th row, until there are 117 stitches, then at the beginning of every following 6th row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 113 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 108 stitches remain.

Work 34 rows.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 113 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every 6th row until 116 stitches remain, then at the end of every following 4th row until 111 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 106 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 90 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Work 1 row.

Now cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows.

Cast off the remaining 58 stitches.


Borders and Making Up

Do not press.

Back Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 needles and contrast colour, knit up 45 stitches all round the neck.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Front Neck Border:
Work as for Back Neck Border.

Using a flat seam, join shoulder seams leaving 3 inches open at each side of the neck.

Back shoulder opening borders:
With right side facing, No 3½mm hook and contrast colour, work 2 rows double crochet (American single crochet) along back shoulder openings.
Fasten off.

Front shoulder opening borders:
Work as for Back shoulder opening borders with the addition of 3 button loops evenly spaced on 2nd row.

To make a button loop: 3 chain, miss 2 dc, dc into next dc.

Neatly catch down the base of the borders, front over back.

Cut remaining yarn into 10 inch lengths and taking 4 strands together each time, knot all round outer edge, matching main shade to main shade and contrast to contrast, (as in the photo), to form a fringe.
Trim fringes.

Sew two sets of buttons in position as in photograph (1 button on back, the other to correspond on front).
[Editor's Note: I think the addition of the button to make a kind of sleeve is a good design feature - or would be if it were functional; however this version has a sleeve button that seems to be purely decorative, so I might choose to omit it altogether - thus saving on the investment in 4 extra buttons!]

Sew remaining 6 buttons on shoulders to correspond with button loops.

Press seams.

Materials

Pure wool striped version in superwash double knitting 15 x 50g balls in main shade; 4 in contrast;
Pure wool plain version in tweed double knitting: 19 x 50g balls.

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One 3½mm crochet hook.

10 buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4 mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is written to fit bust: 32-38 inches; length from top of shoulders (excluding fringe) 25 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2014

Poncho Cape Sweater

BobbleCape1.jpg

Maybe sad to say, I am very smitten with the idea of this "Poncho Sweater" from the seventies. Picturing on location with a bicycle clinches it. It's knitted in a chunky pure wool from the era of back to nature fibres (after the decade with all that courtelle crepe).

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

Commence at top.
With 6½mm needles cast on 167 (171) sts.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K3, purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

7th row: K8 (10), MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 8(10) sts; knit to end.
8th row: As 2nd row.
9th - 12th rows: Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows twice.

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Work 12 more rows and then conunence side shaping.

1st row: K2tog tbl; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Continue to dec in this way at each of every 4th row until 151 (155) sts remain, and then every alternate row until 119 (123) sts remain.

Next row: K2tog tbl, k2, purl to the last 4 sts, k2, k2tog.
Next row: As 1st row.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 79 (83) sts remain, ending with a right side row.

Next row: P2 (4), P2tog, * p6, p2tog, repeat from * to the last 3 (5) sts, purl to end. [69 (73) sts].

Change to 5½mm needles.
1st row:. K2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to the last st, k1.
2nd row: * K1, p1, repeat from * to the last st, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows for 11 cm (4¼ inches).
Cast off in rib.

Front - Left side

With 6½mm needles cast on 70 (72) sts.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K3, purl to end.
3rd row: Increase in first stitch, knit to end.
4th row: K3, purl to the last stitch, increase in last stitch.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows once more.
7th row: Increase in first stitch, k4, MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 8(10) sts; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as set.
Increase 1st at the neck edge on the next 4 rows.
Work 13 rows without shaping.

Commence side shaping.
1st row: Knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Continue to decrease in this way at the end of every 4th row, until 74 (76) sts remain.
Work 1 row. Break yarn and leave sts on spare needle.

Front - Right side

With 6½mm needles cast on 70 (72) sts.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: Purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
3rd row: Knit to the last stitch, increase in the last stitch.
4th row: Increase in first stitch, purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows once more.
7th row: K8 (10), MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 5 sts; k4 increase in the last stitch.
Continue in pattern as set.
Increase 1st at the neck edge on the next 4 rows.
Work 13 rows without shaping.

Commence side shaping.
1st row: K2tog tbl; knit to end.
Continue to decrease in this way at the beginning of every 4th row, until 74 (76) sts remain.
Work 1 row.

Next row: Work to end of right side.
Cast on 9 sts for front opening.
Now work across stitches of left side. [157 (161) sts].

Complete exactly as for back.

Hood

With 5½ mm needles cast on 163 stitches.
Work 11 rows in garter-stitch (every row knit).

Next row: Cast off 28 stitches; knit to the last 28 stitches; cast off these stitches.
Break yarn.

Turn and rejoin yarn to remaining 107 stitches.
Change to 6½mm needles.
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.

Next row: K8, MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to the last 8 stitches; k8.
Continue in pattern as set. Work 22 more rows.

Next row: P38 stitches, cast off 31 stitches, purl to end.
Continue on the last set of stitches and work 10 rows.

Shape back.
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then the 4 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the 8 remaining stitches.
Rejoin yam to remaining stitches.
Work 11 rows.
Shape back to match first side.

To Make Up

Press each piece lightly with a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join top seams.
Join side edges of welt ribbing.
Join back seam on hood
Place this seam in the centre of the cast off stitches, and sew crown seam.
Sew hood to neck edge, and borders to front opening edges.
Join edges of borders together for 2 cm ( inch) from start of front opening.
Press all seams lightly.

Ties - make 2

Using 2 strands of yarn 66cm (26 inches) long, make a twisted cord and knot the end. Thread the folded end of he cord through the edge of the knitting at the neck, open up the cord, thread knotted end through cord and draw up.

Materials

24 (25) 50g Chunky yarn.

A pair each of Nos
5 (5½mm) and 3 (6½mm) needles.

Tension

15 sts and 20 rows to 4 inches over the pattern using 6½ mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 34-36 (36-38) inches; length from top of shoulders 26 inches.

Abbreviations

MB: Make bobble as follows: (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) into next stitch, turn; k5, turn; p5, turn; k2tog, k1, k2tog, turn; p3tog, completing bobble.

tog: together.

tbl: through back loops.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

July 2013

Cool summer lacy dress ...or...

CrochetDress.jpg

This is a lovely - and typical - dress from the burgeoning decade of the 1970s. Crafts and bohemian dress was the thing that defined the start of the era, (while Punk defined the end of it). Back to nature - self sufficiency - flowing maxi dresses and floppy hats - Golden Hands and all that followed (... quite a lot of macramé if I remember rightly).
Elaine made this version and Kate models it layered as a tunic - but with the weather we are being promised for the next few days** as Wimbledon comes to its climax, it might be just as appropriate to wear as originally designed - Grecian goddess style...

Instructions.

Special pattern stitches as follows:
[Editor's note: You will probably find these stitches easier to execute if you try them as opposed to how they appear on paper.]

Bar-st front (worked on right side rows): yarn over, then starting with hook at front of work insert hook from right to left behind stem of next st and through to front again, yarn over and draw loop through up to same height as shells, then complete tr in usual way.
Bar-st back (worked on wrong side rows): yarn over, then with hook at back of work insert hook from right to left in front of stem of next st and through to back again, yo and draw ioop through up to same height as shells, then complete tr in usual way.
Long bar-st: work as bar-st front or back but starting with yarn over twice and working a double tr instead of a tr.
Bodice shell: work 2 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr into same chain or space.
Skirt shell (small): work 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr into same chain or space.
Skirt shell (large): work 3 dtr, 1 ch, 3 dtr into same chain or space.

[Editor's note: Elaine made this dress more than once, and she made a small adjustment to the pattern which worked well. Instead of making the skirt back and front separately, she joined the bodice back and front together at the side seams, and then worked the skirt in the round. Just make the appropriate amount of chains (3 or 4) at the start of each round and join at the end with a slip stitch. It saves having to make a join all the way down the side of the skirt.]

Bodice Back

Using size 5 (5½mm) hook make 57(63:69) ch.

1st row (right side facing): Work a shell of [2 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr] into 6th ch from hook, * miss 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr into next ch, miss 2 ch, work 1 shell into next ch; repeat from * to last 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 tr into last ch. 9(10:11) shells.
2nd row: 3 ch, * 1 shell into space at centre of shell in row below, 1 bar-st back into tr; repeat from * to last shell, 1 shell into space, 1 tr into top ch at beginning of previous row.
3rd row: 3 ch, * 1 shell into space, 1 bar-st front into the bar-st back of row below; repeat from * to last shell, 1 shell into space, 1 tr into last tr.

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 3½ ins.

Shape Armholes

1st row (right side facing): Sl st across to space of first shell, 3 ch, 1 bar-st into bar-st, * 1 shell, 1 bar-st; repeat from * to last shell, 1 tr into space of last shell, turn.
2nd row: Sl st into top of bar-st, 3 ch, *1 shell, 1 bar-st; repeat from * to end, replacing last bar-st with a tr into bar-st at beginning of previous row. 7(8:9) shells remain.

Continue in pattern until armholes measure 3½(:4) inches.

Shape Neck

1st row (right side facing): Work in pattern until 2 shells have been worked. 1 bar-st, 1 tr into space of next shell, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch. work 1 shell into space of shell, work in pattern to end.
3rd row: Work 3 ch, 1 shell, 1 bar-st, 1 tr into space of next shell. Turn.
4th row: 3 ch, 1 shell, 1 tr into 3rd ch at beginning of row below. 1 shell remains.

Repeat the last row until armhole measures 6½(:7) ins measured straight. Fasten off.

Leave 1(2:3) shells at centre unworked and rejoin yarn to centre of next shell.
1st row (right side facing): 3 ch, 1 bar-st into bar-st, work in pattern to end. 2 shells worked.
Complete to match first side reversing shapings.

Bodice Front

Work as given for Back to . Continue in pattern until armholes measure 2½(:3) inches, ending with a right side row.
Complete as given for Back from to end.

Skirt Back

With right side of back facing rejoin yarn to lower edge and work across starting ch as follows:-
3 ch, 1 shell into same ch as first shell of bodice, * 1 bar-st front, 1 shell into same ch as next shell in bodice; repeat from * 7(8:9) times more, 1 tr into last ch. 9(10:11) shells.
Next row: 3 ch, * 1 shell into space, 1 bar-st front; repeat from * to last shell, 1 shell into space, 1 tr into 3rd ch at beginning of previous row.
Continue in pattern until skirt measures 6 ins.
Next row: 3 ch, * work a shell of [3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr] into space, 1 ch, 1 bar-st, 1 ch; repeat from * to last shell, [3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr] into space, 1 tr into 3rd ch at beginning of previous row.
Repeat the last row until skirt measures 12 ins.
Next row: 4 ch, * work a shell of [3 dtr, 2 ch, 3 dtr] into space, 1 ch, 1 long bar-st, 1 ch; repeat from * ending with 1 dtr into top ch at beginning of previous row.
Continue in pattern as on last row until skirt measures 181½ inches or required length, finishing with a wrong side row.
Next row: 4 ch, * work a shell of 9 dtr into space, 1 ch, 1 long bar-st, 1 ch; repeat from * replacing last long bar-st with 1 dtr into 4th ch at beginning of previous row.

Fasten off.

Skirt Front

Work as given for Skirt Back.

Finishing and Edging

Press pieces very gently with a damp cloth, (or just dampen and pin out to block).
Join side and shoulder seams.

Edgings:
With right side of work facing and using size 7 (4½mm) hook, work 120(136:152) dc evenly round neck edge, sl st to join.
Next round: 1 dc into first dc, * miss 3 dc, work a shell of 9 tr into next dc, miss 3 dc, 1 dc into next dc; repeat from * to last 7 dc, miss 3 dc, 1 shell into next dc, miss 3 dc, sl st into dc at beginning of round. Fasten off. 15(17:19) shells.
Using size 7 (4½mm) hook work 1 row of firm dc round each armhole.

Press seams and edgings.

Optional Belt:
Using size 5 (5½mm) hook and 3 strands of yarn make a chain 50 inches long for belt, fasten off. Thread through the holes formed along the starting ch of bodice.

Materials

14-17ozs. Winfield Trycel DK (see A Word on the Wool)

Crochet hook Nos
5 (5½mm) and 7 (4½mm).

Tension

One bar-st and one shell are 11 inches over pattern on size 5 hook.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
32 (34 : 37) inches;
length from top of shoulders, 25½ (25¾ : 26) inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
tr: treble crochet
dtr: double treble
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Potentially any double knitting quality can be used (knitting tension would be about 22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches or 10 cm).

The recommended quantity of 13-17 ozs (1oz = 28g) is for a synthetic/nylon type yarn and the yardage on these tends to be 30-50% longer than pure wools or cottons, so be prepared to use up to twice as much weight in yarn as stated.

This would be good made in cotton as a summer dress (can't imagine it in nylon... or rather I probably can - though here are some good synthetics these days). If choosing cotton, a blend or soft cotton would probably be better to give it more drape.

Elaine used a pure lambswool double knitting yarn from Kingcraig, who have an eBay store, and Kate wears this version as a tunic.

1970 and 2012


** These idyllic 70s scenes of a beautiful natural life in the country, were usually shot abroad to ensure success in good weather. However, in 1976 we had the hot summer to end all summers - even Parisians had abandoned fashion with everyone in my sister's words "looking as though they were pregnant" wearing cheesecloth tents attached over the shoulder with ribbon straps.

"The temperature reached 26.7°C (80°F) every day between 22 June and 16 July. For 15 consecutive days from 23 June to 7 July inclusive, temperatures reached 32.2°C (90°F) somewhere in England. Furthermore, five days saw temperatures exceed 35°C (95°F). On 28 June, temperatures reached 35.6°C (96.1°F) in Southampton, the highest June temperature recorded in the UK. The hottest day of all was 3 July, with temperatures reaching 35.9°C (96.6°F) in Cheltenham, one of the hottest July days on record in the UK." - Wikipedia

March 2012

Simply Seventies Zip Jackets

ZipperedJackets1286.jpg

Another take on the zipped jacket from a later era. This design is easier than the Norwegian-style jacket in its construction, and uses a heavier (double knitting) weight yarn, which makes for a quicker knit. The patterning is simpler too - knitted straight, that is, without having to worry about incorporating increases and decreases into the design as you knit.

Instructions

Instructions are given for seven sizes - larger sizes indicated in brackets.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 73 [79 : 85 : 89 : 95 : 99 : 105] sts and work 14[14 : 14 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 18] rows in kl, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until work measures
11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, ending on right side. Break off main shade, (A), and join in first contrast, (B).

**
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end. Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * KlB, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * plC, klB repeat from * to last 2 sts, plC, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end. Break off yarn B, join in A.
**
5th row: Using yarn A knit to end.
Work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Break off yarn A, join in B.

Proceed as follows:
Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work from 1st to the 13th row from Chart A, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart A (see end for slightly larger view)

Break off yarn C, join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A kl. purl to last st, k1.
Next row: S1, knit to end. Break off yarn A.

Proceed as follows:
repeat from ** to ** once.
Next row: Knit to end.

Cont in stocking stitch until work measures 16½ [18½ : 20½ : 23 : 23 : 23 : 23] ins, ending on a wrong side.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts at the beginning of the next 4 [4 : 4 : 2 : 2 : 4 : 4] rows.
Cast off 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts at the beginning of the next 2 [2 : 2 : 4 : 4 : 2 : 2] rows.
Castoff rem 23 [23 :23 : 25 : 25 : 25 : 25] sts.

Left Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: S1, kl, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, kl, purl to last st, kl.

Keeping continuity of stocking stitch and garter stitch border throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the begining of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, k1C, * p1B, p1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, k1, purl to last stitch, kl.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge sts in garter stitch, and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th row from Chart B, working size required as indicated. The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart B


Break off yarn C, and join in A.

1st row: Using yarn A k2, purl to last stitch, k1.

2nd row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): S1, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): lncrease once in first stitch, knit to end.
37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes: Break off yarn A.

Shape Neck
1st row: Using yarn B, cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from *to last 3 sts, k1B, k2tog C.
3rd row: K2togB, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2sts, p1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
4th row: S1, purl to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts.

Right Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the beginning of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, kl, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Keeping continuity of garter stitch border and stocking stitch throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A k2tog, knit to end.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge stitches in garter stitch, joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th rows from Chart C, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart C


Break off yarn C,and join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A kl, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Shape Neck

Next row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to last 2 sts, increase once in next stitch, k1.

For all 7 sizes
Break off yarn A.

1st row: Using yarn B, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: K2togC, * k1B, k1C, repeat from *to last stitch, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1C, k2togB. Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, k2tog, knit to end.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a right side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: S1, knit to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: S1, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts purlwise.

Sleeves (both alike):

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on 41 [41 : 41 : 43 : 43 : 43 : 43] sts, and work 16 [16 : 16 : 20 : 20 : 20 : 20] rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing once at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th [10th : 8th : 6th : 6th : 6th : 6th] rows until there are 51 [51 : 53 : 63 : 63 : 53 : 53] stitches.
Then increase at each end of every following 6th [8th : 6th : 4th : 4th : 4th : 4th] row until there are 57 [57 : 63 : 73 : 73 : 79 : 79] stitches.
Continue without shaping until work measures 12½[14½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins. ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Neck

Cast off 7 [7 : 8 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 8 [8 : 9 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 2rows.
Cast off remaining 13 [13 : 13 : 19 : 19 : 19 : 19] sts.

The Collar:

Using No 7 (4½mm) needles and yam A cast on 26 [26 : 25 : 29 : 29 : 29 : 29] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to the last stitch, kl
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
The 1st and’2nd rows form the rib pattern.
Keeping continuity of rib pattern throughout, cast on 8 [8 : 8 : 10 : 10 : 10 : 10] sts, at the beginning of the next 8 rows. 89 [89 : 89 : 109
109 : 109 : 109] sts.
Continue without shaping until side edges measure 4 [4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 5] ins. ending on the wrong side.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Sew up shoulder and sleeve seams. Sew up side seams leaving 6 [6 : 6½ : : 7½ : 8 : 8] ins free to form the armholes.
Sew in sleeves.
With right side of collar to wrong side of work, sew shaped edge of collar evenly all round neck edge.
Sew zip fastener in position.

Press seams.

Materials

7 / 9 / 11 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 x 25g balls in main shade (A) and 25g of each of 2 contrast colours (B and C), of double knitting.

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Open-ended zip of the required length.

Tension

21sts to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 (Actual Size: 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40)
Length: 16½ / 18½ / 20½ / 23 / 23/ 23 / 23 ins.
Sleeve seam: 12½ / 14½ / 15½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
s1: slip one stitch knitwise.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a brushed (fluffy) double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart A (larger)

November 2011

Fashionable Fair-Isle

FamilyFairIsle.jpg

My title refers to the current season's fashion for nordic style sweaters - snowflake, as well as (astonishing to me) reindeer. This sweater's shape betrays its original design era, but that does make it simple to construct - and wear. Update to better reflect the current themes by choosing monochrome colour schemes, using black or greys with cream.
"Traditional motifs in cream make striking winter sweaters; simple easy styling, with straight necklines and drop shoulders, is easy to knit in thick soft yarn on big needles."

Instructions

T-shaped chunky sweater with simple snowflake pattern worked from the charts.

Back and Front alike:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 47 / 51 / 55 / 59 / 63 / 65 / 71 / 73 / 77 sts and work in K1/P1 rib for 2½ / / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / / 3½ inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row (wrong side): Rib 3 / 3 / 5 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6; m1; * rib 8 / 9 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 11 / 12 / 9 / 13; m1; repeat from * to last 4 / 3 / 5 / 5 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 5 / 6 sts; rib to end. [53 / 57 / 61 / 65 / 69 / 71 / 77 / 81 / 83 sts].

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until work measures 13½ / 14½ / 16 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 17½ / 18½ / 19½ inches, ending with a purl row.

1st to 3rd size: Join in contrast colour and work 2 rows.

All sizes:
Next row: Using main shade, knit.
Next row: Using main shade, purl 2 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3, ml; * purl 7 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 9 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 7, ml; rep from * to last 2 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 sts, purl to end. [61 / 65 / 69 / 73 / 77 / 81 / 87 / 91 / 95 sts]

1st to 3rd size: Work rows 1 to 24 from chart A, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 times across and working the first 0 / 2 / 4 sts and last 1 / 3 / 5 sts on knit rows and first 1 / 3 / 5 sts and last 0 / 2 / 4 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart A

4th to 9th size: Work rows 1 to 36 from chart B, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 times across and working first 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts and last 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts on knit rows and first 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts and last 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart B

All sizes: Break main shade, and complete in contrast.

Next 2 rows: Knit.

Next row: K3 / 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 5 / 4 / 2 / 4, k2tog, * k2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 / 2 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 5 / 3 / 6 sts, knit to end. [47 / 49 / 53 / 55 / 61 / 63 / 67 / 69 / 73 sts]

Next row: Knit

Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade cast on 25 / 27 / 27 / 29 / 29 / 31 / 31 / 33 / 33 sts and work in rib as on body sections for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by inc 1 stitch at each end of 3rd / 3rd / next / 7th / next / 5th / 3rd / 9th / 5th and every following 4th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 4th / 4th / 4th row until there are 51 / 51 / 55 / 55 / 59 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 69 sts.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins, ending with a purl row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting garter stitch and ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

When making up a chunky garment it may be easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing.
If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 30 inch lengths and a large needle, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join shoulder seams leaving 7 / / 8 / 9 / 9½ / / 10 / 10½ / 10½ ins open at centre for neck opening.
Join side seams leaving 7 / 7 / 7½ / / 8 / 8 / 9 / 9 / 9½ inches free for armholes.
Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

8 / 8 / 9 / 11 / 11 / 13 / 13 / 14 / 14 x 50g balls in main shade and 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 balls contrast colour.

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 inches; (66 / 71 / 76 / 81 / 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107 cm).
Length from top of shoulders: 20½ / 21½ / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 26½ / 27½ / 28½ ins; (52 / 54 / 58 / 61 / 63 / 66 / 67 / 70 / 72 cm).
Sleeve seam, 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins; (36 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 48 / 48 / 49 / 51 / 51 cm).

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which was a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.

A good substitute in texture and general ethos, might be Rowan's British sheep breeds chunky, which is specified as knitting to a tension of 13sts x 18 rows but on 7mm needles; it is available in a good range of monochrome colours which suit the fashion for the current take on fair-isle. Try a swatch with 6mm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

FamilyFairIsle2.jpg

September 2011

Catkin Hoodie

A pattern from the mid 1970s, knitted in a bouclé wool called Jaeger Catkin. As it was a speciality wool, I decided to splash out and buy the recommended stuff to get the right effect. Originally, I "improved" the pattern by making bell shaped sleeves, which, I seem to remember, were highly fashionable at the time. I wore it like this, day after day throughout my year in Southampton University in 1977. In the 1980s, I unravelled the sleeves and reknitted them straight.... I can only assume I wore it again at that time.
Although I can still just squeeze into this sweater, it is really too small for me now - which some may consider a Good Thing - but I still love it.

Instructions.

The sleeves and yoke of this tunic are knitted from cuff to cuff and the back and front (knitted in the usual vertical manner) are sewn onto it at the armhole.

Back and Front alike.

Work 2 pieces as follows:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 65 [69 : 73 : 77] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit). Change to No 5 needles, and beginning with a knit row work 6 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Shaping:

Next row: K12 [13 : 13 : 14], k2tog tbl, knit to the last 14 [15 : 15 : 16]; k2tog; knit to end.
Work 17 rows in stocking stitch.
Rep the last 18 rows once more. 61 [65 : 69 : 73] sts.
Cont in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures 18½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Cast off.

Left Sleeve and Yoke

** Using No 8 needles and main shade (M), cast on 57 [61 : 61 : 65] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch. Break off M. Change to No 5 needles, and join in contrast colour (C). Beginning with a knit row continue in stocking stitch, until sleeve measures 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Place coloured marker at each end of last row.

Work a further 8 [8 : 10 : 10] rows in stocking stitch.


Shape shoulder:

Next row: K28 [30 : 30 : 32], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k28 [30 : 30 : 32]

Work 9 [9 : 11 : 11] rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: K29 [31 : 31 : 33], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k29 [31 : 31 : 33]. {61 [65 : 65 : 69] sts}

Work 13 [15 : 15 : 17] rows in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
**

Divide for neck:

Next row: K30 [32 : 32 : 34], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 15 [16 : 16 : 17] rows. Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining 21 [23 : 23 : 25] sts. Work a further 12 [12 : 12 : 14] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles, join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

Right Sleeve and Yoke

Work as given for left sleeve and yoke from ** to **.

Divide for neck:

Next row: K21 [23 : 23 : 25], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 11 [11 : 11 : 13] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles. Join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and work 16 [17 : 17 : 18] rows. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press the sleeve pieces very lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron on wrong side, omitting the 9 st borders. Join centre back yoke seam.

Neck border:
Using No 8 needles and M, with right side of work facing, beginning at the right front border, knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along right front, knit up one st from corner, (marking this stitch with coloured thread), knit across 10 sts from holder up right side, knit 18 [22 : 22 : 24] sts along back, knit across 10 sts from holder down left side, knit up one st from corner, (mark ing this stitch with coloured thread), then knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along left front. {58 [66 : 66 : 70] sts}
Work 4 rows in garter stitch, decreasing one stitch at each side of the marked sts on next and foil alternate row. {50 [58 : 58 : 62] sts}.

Hood:

Next row: K9 [12 : 12 : 12]; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; (m1, k1 [1 : 1 : 2]) 12 [2 : 2 : 10] times; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; m1; k9 [12 : 12 : 12]. {73 [77 : 77 : 79] sts}.

Change to No 5 needles.

1st row (right side): Knit to end.
2nd row: K4; purl to last 4 sts, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows until hood measures 11½ ins from beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: K4, slip these 4 sts on to a holder, cast off next 20 [21 : 21 : 22] sts; k25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts, (including stitch on needle); k4 and slip these 4 sts on to a holder.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to rem 25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts and beg with a purl row, cont in stocking stitch until side edge fits along cast off edge of hood to within 4 sts on holder. Cast off.

Sew cast off edges to side edge of centre piece.

Left border:
Using No 5 needles, and M, with wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to 4 sts on holder on left side of hood. Cont in g st until extra rows, when slightly stretched, fit across to centre of cast off sts at centre of hood.
Cast off.

Right border:
Work as given for left border.

Join borders and sew in position around hood.
Join side seams.
Join sleeve seams to markers.
Sew yoke edges to cast off edges of back and front.
Press seams.
Using M, make 2 twisted cords with a tassel at each end and sew in position to fasten at neck.

[Editor's note: I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

Materials

10 [11 : 11 : 12] x 50g balls Jaeger Catkin in main shade (M) and
8 [9 : 9 : 10] balls of contrast colour, (C)

[Editor's note: I have knitted the hood in the contrast yarn rather than as the instructions given here, where the hood is in the main shade. If you want to do this, it will alter the required amount of yarn.
Also, I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

A pair each of No 8 (4 mm) and No 5 (5½ mm) needles.

Tension

14 sts and 22 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inch bust.
Length to shoulder: 27 [27½ : 27½ : 28] inches.
Sleeve seam: 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches.

The figures in square brackets refer to the 34, 36 and 38 inch sizes respectively.

Abbreviations

m1: increase by picking up the loop lying before next st and knitting into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
k2tog tbl: (decrease) knit 2 sts together through back loops - also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

Jaeger Catkin was a lovely quality soft bouclé wool. There are a number of good choices for a substitute chunky bouclé these days, including options from Rowan. However, you might have to go with a single colour - which might be more sophisticated - unless you are into dying your own matching colour combination.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


You can see similar patterns - some with front pockets - in the vintage patterns section:


Sweater with hood and stripes


Pattern ID: Hayfield 1271

Mother and daughter tunics


Pattern ID: Hayfield 1241

July 2011

Miss Muffet Pinny

MuffetPinny.jpg

All dressed up in a charming pinafore, suitable for a spring or summer celebration, perhaps, in a lighter cotton-blend 4ply. Alternatively, try an angora or mohair blend for a more wintry festive feel.
The pattern for the dress underneath is also given, although, today, we seem to be fully equipped with central heating everywhere, so this combination may prove to be too hot for most children.

Instructions

The pinafore is worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Panel Pattern over 5 stitches:

1st row: k2, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k1
2nd and every alternate row: purl
3rd row: k1, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1
5th row: as first row
7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows: knit
16th row:as second row
These 16 rows form panel pattern.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 223/239/255 sts. and work 5 rows garter-stitch, that is: every row knit.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows :

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
5th row: k6, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
9th row: knit.
11th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
13th row: k2, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2.
15th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
16th row: as second row

Shape skirt and place panel pattern as follows:

1st decrease row: k5/13/5, (panel pattern 5 as 1st row, k5, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, panel pattern 5 as 1 st row, k5/13/5. [210/226/240 sts]

Keeping continuity of panel pattern, work 11/17/25 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5. [197/213/225 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k3) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5 [184/200/210 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

1st and 2nd sizes: Continue decreasing 13 sts thus on next and following 16th/18th row [158/174 sts].
3rd size: Continue decreasing 15sts thus on next row [195 sts].

All sizes:
Next row (wrong side facing): p18/14/6, p2tog, (p28/34/18, p2tog) 4/4/9 times, purl to end [153/169/185 sts].
Work a few rows straight in stocking-stitch until skirt measures 9½/11/12½ inches, ending with wrong side facing.

Divide for front and backs:
Next row: p21/23/25, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 21/23/25 stitches for right back until work measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 15/17/19 sts.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches from holder; cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole), p43/47/51, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 43/47/51 stitches for front until work measures 12/13½/15½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k8/9/10, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder .
Continue straight until left front measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

Work 1 row straight.

Cast off remaining 2/3/4 sts.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remainiing stitches, cast off centre 27/29/31, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches on holder, cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole) purl to end.

Finish to correspond with right back, reversing shapings.

Shoulder Frills:

With No 12 needles, cast on 103/111/119 sts. and work 3 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles and work rows 1-15 of pattern as for main part.
1st size: Next row: p5, p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 30 times, p6 [72sts].
2nd and 3rd sizes: Next row: p8/8, (p1, p2tog) 32/34 times, p7/9 [79/85 sts].
All sizes: Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.
Sew cast-off edge of shoulder frill along armhole edge, and sides of frill along cast-off edge at beginning of armhole shaping.

Make borders: With right side facing and 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc up left back, round neck and down right back. increasing and decreasing at corners as required.
Make 4 buttonloops on right back on 2nd row, first to come level with cast-off edge at armhole, 4th to come at neck edge, and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond.
To make a buttonloop: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3/3/4 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

4 small buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Eyelet pattern and sleeve frill detail:

MuffetPinnyDetail.jpg MuffetPinnyDetail2.jpg

MuffetPinny.jpg

... and the little dress

MuffetDress.jpg

This is the plain and simple dress designed to go under Miss Muffet's pinafore.

Instructions

This is an A-line dress, knitted completely plain, with a high round neck and long sleeves.

Back

**
With No 12 needles, cast on 114/120/128 stitches and work 5 rows in garter-stitch, that is, every row knit

Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows straight.

1st decrease row: k26/28/30, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k54/56/60, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k26/28/30. [110/116/124 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k25/27/29, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k25/27/29. [106/112/120 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k24/26/28, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k24/26/28. [102/108/116 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and every following 12th/14th/16th row until 82/88/96 sts; remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 12/13½/15 inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 62/68/72 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 56/60/64 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 14/16/17½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for back opening:
Next row: k28/30/32, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder.

Continue straight on first set of stitches until back measures 16½/18½/20½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 2/3/4 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Leaving remaining 14/15/16 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work straight until front measures 15/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k20/21/22, turn and leave remaining stitches on a stitch-holder.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 14/15/16 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight. Cast off remaining 2/3/4 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 40/44/46 sts. and work 7 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles.
Next row: k1/3/2, m1 , (k2, m1 ) 19/19/21 times, k1/3/2: [60/64/68 sts].
Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve measures 9½/10½/12 inches, ending with right side facing,

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing and No 12 needles, start at top of left back and work as follows:-
Knit 14/15/16 from left back, pick up and k12/14/14 down left side of neck, k16/18/20 from centre front. pick up and k12/14/14 up right side, knit across 14/15/16 stitches from right back [68/76/80 sts].
Work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Cast off.

Left Back Border: With 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc along left back edge.
Right Back Border: Work as for left with the addition of 3 button loops, first to come ½ inch above start of opening, third to come at centre of neckband, and 2nd spaced evenly between.
Mark positions and work loops: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.
Sew on buttons.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Run 1 row shirring elastic directly above garter-stitch cuff. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 4/4/5 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

3 small buttons.

Shirring elastic for cuffs.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 16½/18½/20½ inches; sleeve seam: 9½/10½/12 inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MuffetDress.jpg

June 2011

Cherry Ripe

CherryCosy.jpg

A jolly tea cosy to get you in the mood for the real cherry season.
I used brown for the main colour (more practical potential tea-stain colour for my partially sighted Aunt), and I used green for the stems and also crocheted the leaves. I did find making the little crochet bobbles slightly tedious and fiddly but they look so wonderful when you step back and admire the finished cosy.

Instructions

This cosy is made as 2 flat pieces which are then sewn together to make the hat-like shape. Although I prefer to avoid seaming wherever possible, this is perfect for a cosy as you can tailor the openings to fit your specific teapot. (I never realised this could be an issue until I made a cosy which did not fit my 1930s pot as the spout was set very high). The fancy rib fits snugly around most average pot sizes, making this an excellent design.

Main Cosy (make 2 pieces)


With No 8 needles and main colour M, cast on 47sts and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.

These 2 to rows form the pattern..
Continue in pattern until work measures 5ins ending with a 2nd row.


Shape top as follows:-
1st row: * k2tog, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [35 sts].
2nd row: k1, * p1, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: * k1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 2sts, k2. [24sts]
6th - 8th rows: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2sts, k2.
9th row: k1, * k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.[13sts]
10th row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
11th row: (k2tog) 6 times, k1. [7sts]

Break yarn and leave is on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Work another piece from to

Break yarn, leaving an end. Thread end through stitches on needle and 7sts from other piece left on holder; draw up tightly and fasten securely.

Cherries (make 12 in all)

With No. 8 crochet hook and red yarn (R), make 4 chain and join in a ring with a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into ring.
2nd round: 2 dc into each dc of previous round. [16sts]
3rd and 4th rounds: 1dc into each dc of previous round.
5th round: dec1, 8 times [8sts]

Fasten off.
Make 7 more in red (R) and 4 more in wine (W).

Stems

With No. 8 crochet hook and brown yarn (B), make 24 chain.
Fasten off.
Make 5 more stems the same.

To Make Up

Join sides of cosy together leaving an opening at each side for handle and spout.
Using same coloured yarn as cherries make small balls (for stuffing) and place inside each cherry.
Sew end of one stem to top of small ball in one cherry and other end to top of small ball in another cherry.
Draw up top of cherries and fasten securely.
Cut 4 felt leaves as illustrated.
Arrange cherries and leaves round top of cosy as in photograph and sew firmly in position.

Materials

1 x 50g ball double knitting yarn each in main cream colour (M), red (R), and wine (W) plus an oddment of brown (B).

A pair of No 8 (4mm) needles, and a No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

Green felt for the leaves, or green yarn to crochet leaves.

Tension

24sts x 34 rows to 4 ins over pattern.

Size matters

Width all round: 16ins, (41cm); height: 6ins (15cm).

Abbreviations

dec 1: crochet decrease one:- (insert hook in next st and draw loop through) twice, yarn round hook and draw through 3 loops on hook.

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Any standard double knit is suitable, knitting to a tension 22sts x 30rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

CherryCosy.jpg

January 2011

Life of Ease

LivingAran2.jpg

Well if you don't actually have the life of ease, this might help you attain it - firstly with the relaxation of knitting it, and then in the casual dress code it will encourage once completed.
This pattern is straight from the 1970s, but does seem to have that timeless quality* about it.
The Magpie Aran yarn is exactly the nutty brown tweed colour I always imagined for the cardigan, (yellow/cream Arans are not a good colour for me). However Magpie, though a very robust wool, soft it is not, and I think this design would be great in a lovely soft airy yarn; luckily there is plenty of choice these days in this kind of wool weight.

* I do admit that I hate that word "timeless"- it seems to be an unwritten rule that once said it will ensure the item to which it applies becomes dated and laughable even more quickly than other items of the same vintage. However, in this case I think it really does apply, and (if it's any comfort) I don't think it was high fashion even in the 1970s, which is probably why it took so long for me to be inspired to finally make it up.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

The Back

With No 9 needles cast on 98 (104 : 110: 116 : 122) sts.
1st row: P2, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: K2, (pbl, k2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then 1st row once, increasing 1st at both ends of last row on lst, 3rd and 5th sizes.

Increase row: K8 (10 : 14: 16: 20), kfb *p7, (k2, pfb) 6 times, k2, p7 *; (k1, p1, then k1, p1 in next st) 4 times, k2; repeat from * to *, kfb, knit to end. [118 (122 : 130 : 134: 142) sts]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * k7, (p2, k2) 6 times, p2. k7 *; p18; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: k10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); * p7, (k2, p2) 6 times, k2, p7 *; k1, (work k1, p1, k1 into next st, p3tog) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to *; knit to end.
3rd row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * cp7, (p2, k2) 6 times, p2, cp7 *; p18; repeat from * to *; (pl, kb1) to end.
4th row: k10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); repeat from * to * as 2nd row; k1, (p3tog, then into next st work k1, p1, k1) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to * as 2nd row; knit end.
5th row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * k7, p2, (c6L, p2) 3 times, k7 *; p18; repeat from * to *; (p1, kb1) to end.
6th row: As 2nd row.
7th row: As 3rd row.
8th row: As 4th row
9th row: As 1st row
10th row: As 2nd row
11th row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times, * cp7, p2, k2, p2, (c6R, p2) twice, k2, p2, cp7 *; p18; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb1) to end.
12th row: As 4th row

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in straight until work measures 20 ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 4 (5 : 6 : 6 : 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then cast off 4 (5: 6: 7: 8) sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows. [100 (100 : 104 : 106 : 110) sts]

Continue straight until armhole measures 7½ (7½ : 8: 8: 9) ins, ending after a wrong-side row.


Shape Shoulder and Neck:
Cast off 8 (8 : 10 : 11: 13) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Next row: Cast off 8, pattern until there are 25sts on the right-hand needle, cast off 18, pattern to end.

Continue on the last set of stitches.

Next row: Cast off 8, pattern to end.
Next row: Cast off 5, pattern to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Cast off the remaining sts.

Join yarn to neck edge of remaining sts and work to match lst side, reversing shapings.

Pocket linings (make 2)

[Editor's note: You may note from the photograph that I omitted pockets on my cardigan - actually I think it looks best with pockets, and I plan to add them in later, but if you don't want them, simply leave out these sections.]

With No 9 needles cast on 38sts.

1st row: K2, (p2, k2) to end.
2nd row: P2, (k2, p2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows for 5 inches, ending after 1st row.

Next row: P3, increase in the next stitch, rib to the last 4 sts, increase in the next stitch, p3.

Leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

The Right Front

With No 9 needles cast on 58 (61 : 64 : 67 : 70) sts.

1st row: K1, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: (k2, pbl) to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

Next row (buttonhole): Rib3, cast off 3, rib to end.
Next row: Work in rib, casting on 3sts over those cast off.

Work 3 more rows in rib, increasing 1st at the end of the last row on the 1st, 3rd and 5th sizes. [59 (61 : 65 : 67 : 71) sts]

Increase row: K8 (10 : 14: 16: 20), kfb; repeat from * to * as increase row on back; (k1, p1, then k1, p1 in next st) twice, k2; turn, leaving the remaining 8 sts on a safety-pin to work the buttonhole band later.

Change to No 7 needles and continue to work on 60 (62 : 66 : 68 : 72) sts as follows:

1st row: P10; repeat from * to * as 1st row of back, then (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: K10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); repeat from * to * as 2nd row of back; k1 (work k1, p1, k1 into next st., p3tog) twice, k1.

Keeping bramble stitch and cable pattern correct, decrease 1 stitch at the end of the following 21st row, then the following 12th row.
Work 1 row.

Next row (place pocket): P10, slip the next 40 stitches on to a stitch holder or spare needle;
work across the pocket lining stitches thus: k7, rib 26, k7;
then pattern across the remaining stitches.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at side edge on the following 10th row. Then continue straight on the remaining 57 (59 : 63 : 65 : 69) stitches until work measures 13 inches.
Increase 1 stitch at the side edge on the next row and following 18th row.
Then continue straight until work matches back to armhole, ending at side edge.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 4 (5 : 6 : 6 : 7) sts at the beginning of the next row, and then 4 (5 : 6 : 7 : 8) stitches on the following alternate row. Continue straight until armhole measures 5 (5 : 5½ : 5½ : 6) inches, ending at the front edge.

Shape Neck:
Cast off 9 sts at the beginning of the next row; 3 stitches on the following alternate row; and 2 stitches on the following 4 alternate rows.
Continue straight until armhole matches back to shoulder, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 (8 : 10 : 11: 13) stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 8 stitches on the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 7 stitches.

The Left Front

With No 9 needles cast on 58 (61 : 64 : 67 : 70) stitches.
1st row: (P2, kb1) to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, (pbl, k2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then 1st row once, increasing 1st at the beginning of the last row on the lst, 3rd, and 5th sizes.

Increase row: Rib 8 stitches, and leave these 8 stitches on a safety-pin to work the left front band later.
Continue the row: k2; (p1, k1, then p1, k1 in next st) twice; repeat from * to * as increase row on back; kfb; knit to end.
[60 (62 : 66 : 68 : 72) stitches]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern thus:

1st row: (Kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; repeat from * to * as 1st row of back, then p10.
2nd row: K1, (work k1, p1, k1 into next st., p3tog) twice, k1; repeat from * to * as 2nd row of back; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as now set, and complete to match right front, reversing shapings and the position of the pocket.

The Sleeves

With No 9 needles cast on 44 (44 : 50 : 50 : 50) sts.
Work 9 rows in rib as for the back welt, omitting the increases on the last row.

Increase row: ** (k2, kfb) once (once : twice : twice : twice),
k2 **; repeat from * to * as for the increase row on the back; then repeat from ** to **. [52 (52 : 60 : 60 : 60) sts]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: (Kb1, p1) 3 (3 : 5 : 5 : 5) times; repeat from * to * as for the 1st row of the back; (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: K6 (6 : 10 : 10) ; repeat from * to * as for the 2nd row of the back; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as now set, increasing 1 stitch at both ends of following 5th row and every following 5th (5th : 6th : 6th : 5th) row until you have 80 (80 : 86 : 86 : 92) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern as end panels.

Continue straight until work measures 17 (17 : 18 : 18 : 18) inches. For 1st, 2nd, and 3rd sizes, end with wrong side facing, and for 4th and 5th sizes end with right side facing to begin the next row.

Mark the ends of the last row (with a piece of coloured thread or a stitch marker).

Shape Top:
Cast off 3 (4: 4: 5: 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows;
4 (4 : 5 : 4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows;
and then 8 stitches at the beginning of the following 4 rows.
Cast off.

The Pocket Tops

With right side facing, slip the 40 stitches on the stitch holder for the left front pocket on to No 9 needles.

1st row: K1, (k2tog tbl, p2) twice; (kb1, p2) 8 times; k2tog tbl, p2, k2tog tbl, k1. [36 sts]

2nd row: K1, pb1, (k2, pb1) to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K1 (kb1, p2) to last 2 stitches, kb1, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Cast off in rib.

Repeat the process for the stitches on the stitch holder for the right front pocket.

The Front Bands

With wrong side facing, slip the 8 stitches of left front on the safety-pin back on to on to No 9 needles.

Work in rib as set, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the 1st row. [9 sts]. Continue in rib until band will fit front edge.

[Editor's note: I have found it difficult to judge the fit of front bands knitted in this way. My method now is that when I have knitted about the right length, I test the length against the main body by laying the work flat and totally relaxed with the front band laid in position up the front. When the front band is about ½ to 1 inch shorter than the main body it fits nicely into position very slightly stretched.]

Leave the stitches on a spare needle.
Mark the band with pins to indicate position of buttons; the first one should be 4 rows up from the beginning and then position 5 more evenly spaced between, allowing that top one will be in the neckband.

With wrong side facing, slip 8 stitches of right front on the safety-pin back on to on to No 9 needles.
Increase in 1st stitch, and rib to end. [9 sts]
Complete to match left front band, working buttonholes at pin positions thus:
1st row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd row: Rib 3, cast on 3, rib 3.

The Neck Band

Join shoulder seams.

With No 9 needles and right side facing, rib across the 9sts of the right band, pick up and knit 29 sts up right front neck, 37 sts round back neck, 29 sts down left front neck, and finally rib across 9sts of left front band.

Work 6 rows in rib matching in with the bands, making the last (top) buttonhole on the 4th and 5th rows.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Join side seams.
Sew in sleeves, sewing the rows above the markers to the cast off groups at the armholes.
Join sleeve seams.
Sew down pocket linings, and sides of pocket tops.
Sew on front bands and buttons.

Materials

9 (10 : 10 : 11: 11)
100g skeins Rowan Magpie Aran.

A pair each of Nos
7 (4½mm) and 9 (3¾mm) needles, and
2 cable needles.

7 buttons.
(I used wonderful smooth shiny leather buttons that look like conkers).

Tension

20sts to 4 ins in double moss stitch.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 5 sizes to fit chest:
32 (34 : 36: 38: 40) ins; length: 27 (27 : 27½: 27½: 28½) ins;
and sleeve seam:
17 (17 : 18 : 18 : 18) ins.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
kfb or pfb: knit or purl into front and back of stitch.
kb or pb: knit or purl into back of stitch.
tbl: through back loop
sl: slip

c6L: cross 6 left thus:
slip next 2sts on to cable needle, leave at front, slip next 2sts on to cable needle and leave at back, k2, then p2 from cable needle at back, k2 from cable needle at front.

c6R: cross 6 right thus: slip next 4sts on to cable needle, leave at back, k2, then pass 2 purl sts back on to left-hand needle, purl these 2sts, then k2 from cable needle.

cp7: claw pattern 7 thus: slip next 2sts on to cable needle, leave at back, k1, then k2 from cable needle, knit next st, slip next st on to cable needle, leave at front, k2, then knit st from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a vintage Bainin yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


LivingAran3.jpg

Afterthought Pockets

You can see two things from the photograph of my cardigan. One is - the sleeves look disproportionately short - what can I say? I have very short arms so knitted them shorter to fit me.

The second thing is that there are no visible pockets. The reason is that my yarn was restricted, so when I started the knitting, I always planned to add the pockets later if I had sufficient yarn left at the end.

It is very easy to add afterthought pockets, and sometimes - especially if making your own design - it allows you to judge their position a little better.

You decide where you want your pocket tops to begin, and mark the centre. Thread a lifeline (use a blunt needle and nylon or smooth mercerised cotton thread) through the stitches to either side of the marker as big as the pocket will be (in our case, 40 stitches).

[Editor's note: I know - this can be hard when you have a complicated cable pattern - all I can say is, try and choose one of the wrong side rows where you were not executing the cables - this is good advice from the point of view of the picking up of the stitches, as well as stylistically where you want the pocket to be positioned.]

On the row above the marker for the centre point (and above your lifeline) cut a stitch and unthread the sts to either side of the marker for 20 sts each side. You will have 2 loose ends that you darn in on the wrong side at the end.

Pick up the loose sts above the row you have undone - this will normally yield 41 or 39 sts. Transfer the sts to working needles and knit downwards to make the pocket lining which you then push to the inside and sew down.

Pick up the 40 live sts from your lifeline and knit up to make the pocket tops. (Pull out the lifeline).

If you are short of yarn, you can always make the pocket linings out of any other yarn you have as they do not show - though it's best to choose a toning colour, otherwise it looks very amateurish if the inside of your elegant grey cashmere cardigan is revealed to show red bri-nylon square patches.

August 2010

Autumn Afghan

AutumnAfghan.jpg

I love the rich autumn colours in this simple 1970s throw. Don't spurn the simple crochet motif; while not technically challenging, they do make an ideal handbag project for your holiday or your commute to work. You may think it's a bit early to think about autumn but there are just under 200 motifs make up the full size blanket... so maybe in time for Autumn 2011!

Crochet abbreviations:

ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
dc =double crochet
tr = treble crochet
2 tr tog = two treble together - as follows:
Yarn round hook (yrh), insert hook in space and draw through a loop as you would for a normal treble - you have 3 loops on the hook;
yrh and draw through 2 loops continuing as for a normal treble - you have 2 loops on the hook.
Now it becomes a little different. You leave the 2 loops - do not finish the stitch but start a second treble: yrh, insert hook in next space and draw through a loop - you have 4 loops on the hook; yrh and draw through 2 loops - you have 3 loops on the hook; finish the stitch by yrh and draw through remaining 3 loops.
[Editor's note: This is a method of "decreasing" in crochet although that's not why we are doing it in this motif.]

Remember the above are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Editor's note: While writing this I found a simply excellent free form crochet site from James Walters which reflects his own work alongside Sylvia Cosh and has - among other things - some great crochet information. As the author states - the information was originally intended as worksheets for their students - however I found they do offer useful guidance (available in both what I will call "English" as well as "US English"!)

Instructions

Make 4 ch and join with a ss to make a ring.

1st round: 3ch; 11 tr into ring; ss to 3 ch.

2nd round: 3ch; 1 tr into same place as ss; * 2ch, 2tr into next tr, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch, ss to 3rd of 3ch.

3rd round: 3ch; 2tr into first 2ch space; * 2ch, 1tr into same space, work 2 tr tog (see abbreviations) with first leg in the same space and second leg in the next space, 1tr into same space, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch 1tr into same space, ss to 3rd of 3ch.
[Editor's note: I found this a bit confusing. see if this helps you: in one individual space, you start with the 2nd leg of a "2 tr tog" followed by 1 tr, 2ch, 1 tr, then the 1st leg of a "2 tr tog" - the 2nd leg moves you into the next space.]

4th round: * 1ch, 5tr in space, 1ch, 1dc into 2 tr tog, repeat from * to end, finishing with ss into ss of previous round.

Fasten off.

This completes your first motif.

Make 7 for the centre and then 48, 44, 44, and 46 in the other colours.

Here's a close-up picture of one of the motifs. Hopefully it will help you see how they should look.

Motif.jpg

Making up

Join 2 shells to each adjacent motif, using the following pattern as a guide to placement. It is a good idea to sew this together gradually as you go along - you can stop any time you feel it's big enough, leave the throw as a circular shape, or continue with the pattern to make a rectangle.

Sew in all ends.
Press lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron and a damp cloth.

Materials

4ply/Fingering yarn in 5 autumnal colours. You will need about 1 ball for the centre and about 8 balls for each of the other 4 colours.

One number 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

Tension

One motif measures about 4 inches in diameter.

Size matters

Approximately 52 by 60 inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

October 2009

The Boyfriend Cardigan

BoyfriendCardigan.jpg

No - really - the boyfriend....

I say this as, had you seen the modelled photo from the 1970s, it may have led you to wonder. The orginal cerise colour in combination with the lacy pattern seems to be a bit feminine - but - hey! - we were looking at the beginnings of the "New Man" in the 1970s, right? (but it looks just perfect on my "old" man).
Sad to say, I think I possess the actual original yarn in the suggested (pink) colour for this pattern, but I chose to style it in an elegant pearl grey, using a practical superwash wool blend.

Obviously it could be made to suit a man or a woman.

Instructions.

This is a raglan cardigan, designed for a man and given in 3 sizes. Main size is given for a 40 inch chest and other 2 sizes are given in brackets.

Pattern:

The twisted rib pattern is worked over 24 rows as follows:

1st Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1,k1.
3rd Row: as first row
4th Row: as second row
5th Row: as first row
6th Row: as second row
7th Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2tog, yrn; repeat from * to last 4sts; p2, k2.
8th Row: S1, p1, * k2, k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
9th Row: S1, k1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; k2tog, yfwd, k1.
10th Row: S1, * k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to last st; k1.
11th Row: S1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2tog, yrn, p1, k1.
12th Row: S1, k1,* k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
13th Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
14th Row: S1, k1,* p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
15th Row: as 13th row
16th Row: as 14th row
17th Row: as 13th row
18th Row: as 14th row
19th Row: S1, p1,* yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; yon, s1, k1, psso, p1, k1.
20th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1tbl, k2; repeat from ,* to end.
21st Row: S1, p2, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso, k1.
22nd Row: S1, p1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k1tbl, k3.
23rd Row: S1, p3, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 2sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso.
24th Row: S1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Back:

Using No 12 needles, cast on 153 {161 : 169} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times; k1 * ;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 1{3 : 5} times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 1{3 : 5} times;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; p1, k1.
[174 {182 : 190} sts].

Change to No 10 needles.
Now work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again.

Next Row: S1, * k2tog, k7 *; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k2{6 : 10}; k2tog; k2{6 : 10}; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2. [153 {161 : 169} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

Continue in st-st until work measures 17 {17 : 18} inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 94 {86 : 78} rows decreasing once at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 43 {59 : 75} sts]
Then work a further 6 {14 : 22} rows decreasing once at each end of every row, until 31 sts remain (on all sizes).
Cast off.

Right Front.

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the right front on 78 {82 : 86} sts.

Change to No 10 needles, and work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again, as you did for the back.

Next Row: S1, (k2tog, k10) twice; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k10, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k2.
[71 {75 : 79} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

††

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a knit row, and wrong side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts purlwise; purl to last st, k1.

Work 82 {82 : 78} rows decreasing once at the front edge on the next and every following 10th row - and at same time decrease once at the armhole edge on the next and every alternate row.
[ 13 {17 : 24} sts]

For the largest 44 inch size, work 4 more rows, decreasing once at the front edge on the 3rd row and at the same time decrease once at the armhole edge on every row. [19 sts]

For the small (40 inch) and medium (42 inch) sizes, work 12 {4} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on the next and every alternate row. [7 {15}sts].

Then work a further 4 {12 : 16} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on every row. [ 3 {3 : 3} sts]

Next Row: S1, k2tog.
Next Row: K2tog, break off yarn, fasten off.

Left Front:

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows once, then the 1st row again.

6th Row (make buttonhole): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; continue in rib as set to end of row.
7th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 6 sts; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (k1, p1) twice, k2.
8th Row: as second.

Repeat the first and second rows 4 times more.

17th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 12 sts. Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the left front on 71 {75 : 79} sts.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Change to No 10 needles, and work exactly as given for the Right Front until †† is reached.

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a purl row, and right side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts knitwise; knit to end.

Complete as given for the right front, reversing all shapings.

 

Sleeves:

Using No 12 needles cast on 63 {63 : 67} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows 10 times.

Change to No 10 needles, and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 109 {109 : 113} sts on the needle.

Continue without further shaping until the work measures 19 inches, ending with right side facing for the next row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 44 {44 : 36} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every folowing 4th row. [ 71 {71 : 79} sts]

Then work 56 {56 : 64} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 15 {15 : 15} sts]

Cast off.

Making up:

Press pieces gently under a damp cloth according to the instructions on the yarn ball-band.
Sew up side and sleeve seams.
Placing seam to seam, sew decreased edges of the sleeve to the decreased edges of the body.

Right front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the right front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:

Next Row: Inc in the next stitch purlwise, k1; (p1, k1) 5 times.

Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts until border is of sufficient
length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Left front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the left front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With right side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:
Next Row: Inc in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times; k1.

Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts placing buttonholes at desired intervals as follows:
[Editor's note: I placed the buttonholes with about 28 rows between the pairs of buttonhole rows. This was about 3 inches apart. The topmost of the 5 buttons was about 4inches below the first front decreasing.]

Next Row (wrong side of work): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; (p1, k1) twice.
Next Row (right side of work): S1, k1, (p1, k1) twice; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Continue in rib until border is of sufficient length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Completion:

Sew ends of borders together. Sew borders to front edges. Sew on buttons to correspond with button holes.

Materials

4 ply: 9 : 10 : 11 50g balls [Editor's note: I used ony 7 balls of Luxe - see "Word on the Wool" below]

1 pair of No 10 (3¼mm) and 1 pair of No 12 (2¾mm) knitting needles.

5 buttons.

Tension

30 stitches to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 40:42:44 inch chest; actual size 41:43:45 inches.
Sleeve seam length: 19 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase in the next stitch by knitting (or purling) twice into it.

yrn/yon/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn over needle / yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k1tbl: knit through back loop of the stitch. This has the effect of twisting the yrn or yon stitch that you made, making it tighter.

s1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(s1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used a pale grey shade of Phildar Luxe, (85% acrilic, 15% wool) - very practical and soft, but now available in a lamentably small colour range. Luxe knits to a tension of 32 sts and 41 rows to 4 inches.
It is a fine synthetic at 217yards / 201metres per 50g ball, and I used only 7 balls.

I used plastic buttons (to go with the practical theme) from my collection.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here, George tries to emulate the original model's pose. Sadly, he is inhibited by the lack of a Hendrix hairstyle and droopy moustache.

1970sModel.jpg


February 2009

Valentine Heart Mittens

ValentineIntarsiaMit2.jpg

I was inspired to make these mitten patterns by brightly coloured offerings from 1975. By the time I had tried out a number of versions - and had many more examples of right-hand gloves than I want or need - my final designs differ substantially from the original. But they are cute aren't they?
They are a close fit on my hands, but though my hands are small, I tend to have short fingers only; the measurement around my hand is just over 7 inches.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Using contrast colour, cast on 48 stitches; purl one row, and join into a round.

Change to main colour and knit one row.
Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2 inches from start.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K28; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Work 2 rounds straight.

Cut 6 lengths of contrast wool, about 28 inches in length, and 6 of main shade; do not use bobbins, just the lengths of wool.
Work the first row of the pattern from the chart, as follows, joining in the lengths of wool as required, repeating the 9 pattern sts 6 times:
[Editor's note: You are now going to split the knitting and work back and forth in knit and purl rows. This is in order to insert the hearts nicely using the intarsia method. I tried the Fair Isle technique but the red contrast colour showed through the white, and did not look attractive. This method does mean a little more sewing in of ends but I think the result is worth it.
You will join the round up as you reach the end of each row.]

Row 1: K4 from the ball of main shade, k1 using first strand of contrast yarn, k8 using first strand of main shade, k1 contrast using second strand of contrast, k8 using second strand of main shade, and so on the the last 4 sts; k3 in last strand of main shade, slip the last st. Still using the last working needle, pick up the st below the first st of the round and knit into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.

[Editor's note: Use the pop-up from the above picture for more detailed photos of this technique.]

Row 2: P3 in main shade, p3 in contrast, p6 in main shade, and so on; use the intarsia method and twist the two yarns together when you change colour. Continue in this way until you get to the last stitch in the row, and slip this stitch. Still using the first working needle, pick up the st below the last st of the round and purl into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.
Continue until all 6 pattern rows have been worked from the chart.

Now go back to working in the round, and continue in main shade only, using the main ball of wool.
Next round: K1, m1; knit to last 2 sts, m1, k1. Work 3 more rounds straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18 sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Distribute the 14 sts evenly across 3 needles, and work 4 rounds.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles joining in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:
Work as for the right glove until you reach the working for the thumb gusset then work as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k28 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball 4 ply in main shade, and small amount of contast colour.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles.

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably try Rowan 4 ply soft.
You need so little of the contrast it hardly seems worth buying a whole ball.

Intarsia

Here is a nice little video clip about intarsia knitting. Don't be put off by her continental knitting method.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


ValentineIntarsiaMit3.jpg


Intarsia.

Text and Pictures taken from Ethknits "How to knit" page.

Hold the working yarn in your right hand and the yarn to be woven in your left.

Changing on a knit row: Knit with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to the left and wrap yarn B across the back of A as you knit the next stitch.

Changing on a purl row: Purl with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to left and wrap yarn B under A as you bring it across to purl the next stitch.

You can see from the purl row picture that the edge resembles a sideways knitted row as on each row you cross the yarns over. This way you should get no holes. Don't worry if you see holes where the yarn is loose in some places. When you finish your work you will have lots of ends to sew in and you can pull these tight and sew up any holes that still appear.

January 2009

Winter Waiscoat

WinterWaistcoat3.jpg

Speedy, speedy knitting from the 1970s. Flattering sleeveless top, warm and simple to knit.

Instructions.

The pattern is worked back and forth on circular needles, in 5 stitch repeats over four basic rows:

1st Row: Wrong side facing, {p3, k2}.
2nd Row: {K1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2}
3rd Row: As first.
4th Row: {K2tog, yfwd, k1, p2}

Body:

Note: The back and fronts are knitted as one piece up to the armholes.

With smaller circular needles cast on {100/110}120 stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch, noting that the first row is a wrong side row.

Next Row: (Wrong side facing, 1st pattern row), knit 4 and slip this 4 sts on to a safety pin or stitch holder. Change to larger circular needles and commence pattern thus: k2, *p3,k2; repeat from * to the last 4 sts. Turn, slipping the last 4 sts onto a safety pin, without knitting them. [{92/102}112 pattern sts]
[Editor's note: these 4 sts are to be knitted separately later on the smaller needles and then sewn on to form the front borders.]

Next Row: (2nd pattern row), p2, *k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to end.

Next Row: (3rd pattern row), as first pattern row.

Next Row: (4th pattern row), p2, *k2tog, yfwd, k1, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern for 10 inches (or desired length), ending with a 4th row pattern, and wrong side facing to begin the next row.
[Editor's note: I wanted my top a little longer and knitted 12½ inches here, which was 11 four-row pattern repeats in my version.]
Change back to smaller circular needles and knit 1 row plain, (garter stitch).

†† Leave the main work on the circular needles to one side now, still with wrong side facing - the row you have just knitted is not completed until after you make the front borders.

Front Borders:

At this point you need to go back to the 4sts you left on safety pins on each side of the work, to make the front borders.

Using the pair of smaller needles, and working each set of 4sts separately, rejoin the wool and continue to knit the borders; it is important you join the wool and start knitting from the correct side of each border to continue in the right sequence for garter stitch.

This means that, provided you have followed the instructions exactly as above, for both borders, you need to join the wool at the edge which will later be sewn to the main body.
So for the right front start working on the 4sts from the wrong side, with the main body to your right, every row knitted - (the right front border is on the left when the wrong side of the work is facing you).
And for the left front start working on the 4sts from the right side, with the main body again to your right, every row knitted - (the left front border is on the left when the right side of the work is facing you).

Work each border in garter stitch until, when very slightly stretched, the border fits the length of the main body that you have just knitted, finishing the left border on a wrong side row, and the right border on a right side row. For both borders the yarn end will be at the edge next to the main body. Break the yarn.
The borders should be about half an inch* shorter than the main body so that they will fit when very slightly stretched.
*[Editor's note: half an inch is about 2 rows with this gauge of wool. The right border should be relatively slightly shorter than the left.]

Now return to your main work, on the circular needle. With wrong side facing, take up your last row of plain knitting (see the marker above ††) and complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the right front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{96/106}116sts].

Turn the work (right side facing) and knit across all {96/106}116 sts and then complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the left front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{100/110}120sts].

Now divide for front and back, with wrong side facing, knit the first {25/29}32 sts (includes your extra 4 sts at front border) and place these sts on a stitch holder, to make the left front, later.

Continuing without turning, cast on 3 sts using the working yarn, knit these 3 sts, knit {46/52}56 sts cast on 3 sts. Leave the remaining 32 sts on a stitch holder, to make the right front, later. [{52/58}62 sts].
Turn and commence working back.

Back:

With right side facing, work straight in garter stitch (every row plain) for 8 inches (or the required length for the arm hole), ending with right side facing.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 42 rows].

Shape shoulders by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows,and {4/5}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and leave the remaining {18/20}22 sts on a stitch holder.

Left front:

With right side facing return to the left front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

  • you are working on the left front,
  • you have the right side facing,
  • you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
  • if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32. [{28/32}35 sts]. Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge with right side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

**
To shape the neck, knit to the last {8/9}10 sts; turn and place these {8/9}10 sts on a safety pin or stitch holder. Decrease 1 st at neck edge on every row, until {17/19}20 sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge, with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, then cast off the remaining {4/5}5 sts.
**

Right front:

With wrong side facing return to the right front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

  • you are working on the right front,
  • you have the wrong side facing,
  • you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
  • if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32 sts, [{28/32}35 sts].

Commence working in garter stitch and make buttonholes on the following 6th and 28th (wrong side) rows as follows:

Buttonhole row 1: (wrong side), knit to the last 6 sts, cast off 2, knit to end.
Buttonhole row 2: (right side), k4, cast on 2 over the cast off sts from previous row, knit to end.

Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the armhole edge, ending at the armhole edge with wrong side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

Work to complete the right front exactly as the left from ** to **.

Neck Border:

With right side facing and smaller needles, starting at the top of the right front border, k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder, pick up and k9 sts up right side of neck, k{18/20}22 sts from back neck, pick up and k9 sts down left side of neck, then k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder. [{52/56}60 sts].
Work 4 rows plain in garter stitch; cast off (from wrong side).

To Make Up

Press very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder seams, using a flat seam, (or by grafting, working from the wrong side and making a purl ridge on the right side).
Sew front borders neatly in place using a flat seam, and sew in all ends.
Sew 2 buttons in place to match the position of the buttonholes.

Materials

About 7 x 100g balls of a chunky or "big" wool that knits to the required tension on 7½mm needles.

No 2 (7mm), and No 1 (7½mm) circular needles.
A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Two 1½ inch buttons.

Tension

11sts x 16 rows to four inches measured over stocking stitch on 7½mm needles.

Size matters

I made the main size shown in black text, which is a slightly large on me (UK size 12-14, maximum size 38 inches). The original pattern was multi-sized, so I have included {2 smaller size options}, in red ink with curly brackets, as shown.

They are sized to fit {34/36}38 inches, and actual sizes more like {35/38} 42 inches.

Length from top of shoulder in my version is approximately 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

A word on the wool.

I used a pure wool Aran knitted double throughout, and this was about 450m as if knitted with a single strand of bulky wool.

Original knitted in Patons Pablo.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole. "Yarn forward" or "yarn over needle" is often used in conjunction with knitting 2 sts together (so you avoid increasing the overall number of sts) in knitted lace patterns.


psso: pass the slipped stitch over - "s1, k1, psso" or "slip, slip, knit" ("ssk") is a method of knitting 2 sts together but into the backs of the sts rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts. When decreasing by knitting 2 sts together, the resulting stitch "points" either to the right, (k2tog) or to the left (s1, k1, psso). They are used in combination, for example, in lace knitting, or raglan sleeve decreasing, to create symmetrical decreases.

garter stitch: the simplest stitch pattern of all - every row is knittted, (when worked back and forth on two needles), and the back and the front of the work look the same. It makes a fabric that stretches vertically.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

I have checked and double checked, that I have written all the "right" and "wrong side" instructions correctly - despite this, I remain concerned that an error may still have crept in. If you have any doubts at all, please contact me as above.

Adapting the size:

Altering the size is fairly simple, as you are knitting a big rectangle, with the pattern being a 5 stitch repeat. Working to the required gauge, means that every addition of 5 sts gives you almost 2 inches extra room. Once you get to divide the work, you change to working garter stitch (no pattern), and can work it out so that half the sts go to make the back, leaving a quarter each for the two fronts. If you do not have stitches divisible exactly by four you can put the extra ones into the back, and incorporate them into the back neck.

WinterWaistcoat4.jpg

April 2008

Moss and Blackberry Stitch Hat

MossHat.jpg

A 1970s hat using blackberry stitch, with a moss stitch brim. George did not think this was very "manly", but I leave that artistic decision to you, [George has also had experience of "life on the ocean wave" and says that as long as it's warm it will be welcome].

Instructions

With No. 6 (5mm) circular needle cast on 89 stitches, and work in rounds of k1, p1, moss stitch for 3 inches. Increase 7sts evenly across the last row. [96 sts]

Change to No. 4 (6mm) circular needle and work pattern as follows:

[Editor's note: this pattern (blackberry stitch) is worked over groups of 4 sts, and the hat is knitted up from the wrong side throughout.]

1st round: (wrong side) Knit.
2nd round: * P3tog; (k1,p1,k1) into the next st. Repeat from * to end of round.
3rd round: as first
4th round: * (k1,p1,k1) into the next st; p3tog. Repeat from * to end of round.

These 4 rows form the pattern. Continue in pattern until work measures 8½ inches from the beginning, ending with round 4.

Shape Top as follows, keeping continuity of the pattern:

Next round: K1 *k2, k2tog. Repeat from * to last st., k1. [72 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds 2, 3 and 4.
[Editor's note: You can't keep the pattern bobbles in line with the previous work during the decreasings; just make the bobbles evenly across the rounds as before.]

Next round: *K2tog, k1. Repeat from * to end of round. [48 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds.
Next round: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. [24 sts]
Work 3 pattern rounds.
Next round: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. [12 sts]
Work 1 round.

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

Simply work out how many sts you need to cast on according to your own gauge eg divide the number of sts by 18 and multiply by the number of sts you knit to 4 inches.
To work in moss stitch, you need to use an odd number of sts and work k1,p1 on every round.

Do the same calculation when increasing for the blackberry stitch, taking note that your number of sts needs to be divisible by 4.

Example: I have a gauge of 18 sts to 4 inches on no UK 6 (5mm) needles.
You have a gauge of, say, 15 sts to 4 inches (that is: your wool is thicker than mine).

Cast on 89 sts becomes 89/18*15 = 74, and you cast on 75, as it needs to be an odd number.

Increase evenly to 96 sts becomes 96/18*15 = 80.
For this hat, you need the number of stitches picked up to be divisible by 4, and 80 is exactly divisible by 4 so you are OK.
If not add or subtract a couple of sts until you get a number divisible by 4.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2x 50g balls of vintage Richard Poppleton Emmerdale Chunky Tweed (an acrylic and wool blend).

Size 6 (5mm) and size 4 (6mm) circular needles - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 9st to 2 inches on No 6 needles.

Size matters

This hat worked out to about 22 inches head circumference. My estimate is that "to fit an average sized head" means 22/23 inches for a man's size and 20-22 inches for a woman's size.
See "altering the size" below.

A word on the wool.

Original pattern called for Patons Husky Chunky, which was, I think a pure wool chunky, somewhat bulkier than the one I used.
It knitted to a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches. However, the implied hat size was very large, so I have not altered the original pattern sts according to my gauge, but have allowed the hat to knit up slightly smaller than the original.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Cable Band Hat

CableBandHat.jpg

This 1970s style hat is constructed by knitting a cabled band and then picking up stitches to knit the rest of the hat - which in this example is ribbed. This version is is not intended to have a turned back brim; if you want one, then you must knit the rib section longer; you will not have to reverse any workings as the rib section is reversible, so could be worn either way out. The single layer construction is very economic on yarn; For my wool/acrylic blend, I used 58g.

Instructions

With No. 5 (5½mm) needles cast on 11 stitches, and work in cable pattern as follows:
[Editor's note: I cast on with waste wool, so I could remove it later and graft the ends of the band together.]

1st row: (wrong side) K3, p6, k2.
2nd row: P2, k6, p1, k2.
Repeat 1st and second rows twice more, then the 1st row again.

8th row: (right side facing) P2, cable 6 (slip the first 3 sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work; k3, then k3 from cable needle); p1, k2.

9th - 14th rows: Repeat 1st and second rows 3 times.

Repeat 1st - 14th rows 8 times more (9 patterns in all) ending with row 13. Graft the sts to the cast-on edge to form a circular band, [or cast off the 11 sts and sew the cast-on to the cast-off edge].

[Editor's note: If you want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, now is the time to do it. Lengthen or shorten this band to the circumference you want to achieve. See "altering the size" below.]

One edge of the band has a neat "finished" garter st edging and the other has a reverse stocking stitch edge, which you will use to continue knitting the hat in the round.
Change to number 6 (5mm) circular needle and, with right side of work facing, pick up 92 sts evenly around the reverse stocking stitch edge.

Work in rounds of k2, p2 rib for 5 inches (about 28) rows.

Shape Crown as follows:

1st round: *K2tog, p2. Repeat from * to end of round.
2nd round: *K1, p2. Repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat rounds 2 five times more.

8th round: *K1, p2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: *slip1, k2tog, pass the slipped st over; p1. Repeat from * to end of round.

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts; draw up and fasten off securely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Changing the hat size, or substituting the wool.

You may want to alter the size (circumference) of your hat, or compensate for a different gauge.

This pattern relies on making an even number of cables around the hat, so to lengthen or shorten the band, you can either add in whole or partial pattern repeats, or, if you feel up to it, you could alter the number of rows in the pattern repeat of the cable.

Test your gauge before you start and work out how many rows you need to make your chosen head circumference size. Start by dividing the number of rows you calculate by 14, and then try some other numbers, eg 12, 16, 13, or 15, until you are close to getting an exact number of patterns. [Note that if you choose to work to an uneven number of rows in the repeat, then you will end up doing your cable operations on purl rows, which is quite feasible, but approach with caution if your are a beginner in this field!]

If the above all sounds hopeless to you, then just knit until the band is the length you require, and just sew the ends of the band together rather than trying to graft it. You could even work the hat on two needles instead of in the round, by picking up the stitches from the band before you sew it up, - and then, when you have finished, you sew a side seam into the hat, including the band.

Finally if you are altering the size, or compensating for a different gauge, you will probably need to pick up a different number of stitches from the band. I usually pick up a number of stitches equal to three quarters of the number of rows I have knitted.
Example: I knitted 9 pattern repeats of 14 rows which equals 126 rows in total. Then 126*3/4 = 94.5.
For this hat, you need the number of stitches picked up to be divisible by 4, and I chose to pick up 92sts. I could equally have chosen 96.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2x 50g balls of vintage Richard Poppleton Emmerdale Chunky Tweed (an acrylic and wool blend).

Two size 5 (5½mm) needles and a size 6 (5mm) circular needle - short length suitable for a hat.

Tension

Approx. 9st to 2 inches on No 6 needles.

Size matters

This hat worked out to about 22 inches head circumference. My estimate is that "to fit an average sized head" means 22/23 inches for a man's size and 20-22 inches for a woman's size.
See "altering the size" below.

A word on the wool.

Original pattern called for Patons Double plus, which was a double knitting wool, and the instructions were to knit the yarn double, producing a tension of 7.5sts and 10 rows to 2 inches.
The hat was "unisex" but shown modelled on a woman.
I have compensated for changing the wool, and made the hat slightly larger - my own version is printed here, not the original.
The original instructions were to knit 8 pattern repeats for the band, and to pick up 86 sts for the hat, which was not knitted in the round.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

December 2007

Sparkling Stole

SparklingStole.jpg

Adapted from an original idea for sleepwear, this has transformed itself into a glamorous stole.
Whether or not it sparkles obviously depends on the type of wool you choose. I used a fabulous Italian yarn, which was a bit brighter once knitted up, than I had imagined from the ball, but has made a lovely item. The original pattern (from the 1970s but probably revamped from a much earlier design) called for 4 ply wool - about 8 ounces - but my version is not only in much lighter weight man-made fibres with a consequent good yardage, but also designed to be shorter than the original.
I think you could feasibly wear this in the evening with a skimpy evening top or as a decorative addition over a plain black roll-neck sweater.
[Note: we noticed that this colourway works particularly well with dark brown].

Instructions

Using No. 6 (5mm) needles cast on 72 stitches, and work 6 rows k1, p1 rib.

Increase row: K5, * m1 (make one st by picking up the loop between the stitches and knitting into the back of it), k4; repeat from * to the last 6sts, m1, k5. [88 sts].

**
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), starting with a purl row.

Right side of work facing, change to No. 3 (6½mm) needles and commence pattern.

Next pattern row: * K1, k1b; repeat from * to end.
[k1b = knit 1 below: insert needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch to be knitted, and knit off both stitches at the same time.]

Work 25 rows in the pattern.
[Editor's note: The pattern consists of this one row repeated on both sides of the work - for 25 rows. On an even number of stitches this produces a fisherman rib like stitch, which looks the same on both sides of the work.]

Change to number 6 (5mm) needles and work 3 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
**

Increase row: K6, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 6sts, m1, k6. [108 sts].

Make a second pattern band by repeating from ** to **.

Increase row: K4, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 4sts, m1, k4. [134 sts].

Make a third pattern band by repeating from ** to **, but omit the final three st st rows, and, on this last segment, continue on the No. 3 needles and knit a further 5 pattern rows.

Cast off very loosely using a large gauge needle.

End panels - Using No. 7 (4½mm) needles, and wrong side of work facing, pick up and knit 56 sts purlwise.

Next row: (right side facing) K6, *k2tog, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6. [34 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K15, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K15 [32 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K14, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K14 [30 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K14, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K14 [28 sts].

Continue to decrease at the centre in this way until 6 sts remain.
Cast off tightly.

Repeat for the other side.

Finishing - Press the stocking-stitch end pieces lighty on the wrong side, using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew in ends, and sew on fastener.
Swan around looking glamorous.

[Editor's notes: The original pattern had 5 segments. If you want to do that, work in the same way, with each pattern band at 25 rows and the following additional increase rows:

Increase row for fourth pattern band: K5, * m1, k5; repeat from * to the last 4sts, m1, k4. [160 sts].
Increase row for fifth pattern band: K3, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 2sts, m1, k2. [192 sts].

..and for the side panels pick up and knit 80 sts instead of 56, and decrease to 50 sts in the first decrease row.]

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g balls of an S. Charles Collezione yarn "Ritratto" - shade 64

One pair each of numbers 3, 6 and 7 (UK size) needles.

Fancy clasp available on the web from TextileGarden, or Purlescence, or Nordic Fiber Arts.

Tension

Approx. 16st and 32rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over pattern using No 3 (6½mm) needles.

Size matters

Width around lower edge: 60 inches
Depth: 15 inches

A word on the wool.

"Ritratto" is a man-made fibre with 28% mohair; knits 22sts to 10cm on No 6 (5mm) needles; 50g ball is 198 yards and I used about 1½ balls for the project.

I think this would work out well using Rowan Kidsilk Haze (or Night or Splash), or in Rowan Damask, which has a slightly shiny silk thread running through the yarn.
Original pattern called for a 4 ply wool weight.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SparklingStole3.jpg

October 2007

Cool-cat cable beret

cable_beret.jpg

Hats are not my thing but I am fond of berets. Here is an irresistible 1970's two-tone design - the original in two glaring shades of gold and yellow. Consider also making it in orange with a strawberry or coffee contrast - I can vouch for this as a popular contemporary combination and you can view it as part of Southwest airlines hostess uniforms from the same period (although the colour of the uniforms is possibly not as striking as the hot pants and knee boots of the period...).
Alternatively just stick with more reserved single colour in traditional white Aran, understated and letting the pattern speak for itself.

Cable Pattern

Row 1: P3, k6, p3.
Row 2: K3, p6, k3.
Rows 3-8: Repeat first and second rows 3 times.
Row 9: P3, c3f, p3. [c3f = cable 3 front by working across 6 sts as follows: slip next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leave at front of work, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3sts from the cable needle].
Row 10: K3, p6, k3.

These 10 rows form the pattern.

Special note: Wind 5 small balls of yarn in each colour. Use a separate ball for each cable and panel, and twist the colours where they meet to avoid gaps in work ("intarsia method").

Instructions

Using No. 10 needles and medium colour (M), cast on 106 stitches, and work 9 rows k1, p1 rib.

[Editor's note: If you work the beret in 2 colours then work over 2 needles as described. If you work in a single colour, you could work this in the round, reversing knit and purl sts on wrong side rows.]

Next row: (p1, p into front and back of next st) twice, * p2, p into front and back of next st, p1, p into front and back of next st; repeat from * to the last 7sts, (p1, p into front and back of next st) 3 times; p into front and back of last st. [150 sts].

Change to No 7 needles.

Next row: (right side) * k22 in M; join in light (L), k2, (k into front and back of next st) 4 time, k2; repeat from * to end. [170 sts].
Next row: (wrong side) * k3, p6, k3, (2nd row of cable pattern) in L; p22 in M; repeat from * to end.

Continue in stocking stitch and cable pattern, until work measures 5½ inches from beginning, finishing with right side facing for the next row.

Shape crown as follows:

Next row: * (k2tog, k7, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [150 sts].
Next row: * pattern 12 in L; P18 in M; repeat from * to end.
Next row: * (k2tog, k5, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [130 sts].
Next row: * pattern 12 in L; P14 in M; repeat from * to end.
Next row: * (k2tog, k3, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [110 sts].
Work 1 row.
Next row: * (k2tog, k1, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [90 sts].
Work 1 row.
Next row: * k3tog, k3tog tbl twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [70 sts].
Break off M.

Next row: K3, * p6, k2, (p2tog) twice, k2; repeat from * to last 11sts; p6, k2, p3tog. [60 sts].
Next row: * p2tog, p1, pattern 6, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to end. [50 sts].
Next row: * p2tog, p6, p2tog; repeat from * to end. [40 sts].
Next row: * k2tog, k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [30 sts].
Next row: Purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [15 sts].

Break off wool leaving end. Thread end through remaining sts and draw up tightly. Fasten off securely.

Making up - Press lighty on the wrong side, using a warm iron and a damp cloth. Join seam, using a fine back stitch. Press seam.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 3oz of medium colour and 1oz light in an Aran weight yarn.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of a heavy vintage DK from Phildar.

One pair each of numbers 10 and 7 needles.

Tension

20st and 25 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

Instructions to fit an "average" head (!).

A word on the wool.

I used Phildar yarns Oxygene (a DK) which knits 23st to 4 inches; and Frénésie (a heavy DK) which knits 19st to 4 inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

1970s and colour

Yet another object of my admiration is Southwest airlines. They don't really have any visibility outside the US, so I was suitably surprised on my first journey with them. (It was the night of October 31st flying to Tucson in 1994, and they sure had some fun with us passengers...). I have also been impressed at their impromptu organisation of party games to try and occupy a hot and fractious plane load of souls during an hours delay at LA. (See the wikipedia entry: "Southwest is known for colourful boarding announcements and crews that burst out in song. The singing is unusual, and is quite popular among customers, but has been noted by some travel critics as being offensive and intrusive." huh - what do they know?!)
They had their 25th anniversary in 1996, and had an exhibition that I must have caught somewhere (perhaps a magazine article) which showed their uniform designs over the years. Sadly I can't find any trace of this on the web now - just these photos:

sw-airlines-1970s.jpg orange200.jpg

July 2007

Happi robe

happi_robe.jpg

A fun coverall that can be worn as a dressing robe or on the beach. This is a 1970s take on the Japanese design for happi coats, which originated as Japanese over coats traditionally worn by shop keepers. The family crest, shop name or emblem was printed on the back of the coat. Today, happi coats are still used by some shop keepers in Japan, but are also widely used elsewhere for festivals, parties and so on.

I realised while writing these instructions that they are not really for the novice seamstress. You will understand them better if you have used a paper pattern before. Having said that, this is a very simple shape; there is no real tailoring and if you are not a perfectionist, you can obtain a very pleasing result without much skill. If you are a perfectionist, then I expect you will make a high quality item in spite of my sketchy instructions....

Instructions

Using the dressmakers paper, make a paper pattern from the graphs (Figs 1 and 2) and, using fabric scraps, or fat quarters, cut patches at least approximately 4 inches by 4 inches, according to the patch shapes you have chosen. Lay the patchwork pieces out on a table until there are enough to make a Back, two Fronts, two Sleeves and two Pockets. Remember to evenly distribute the colours so you don't run out of one particular fabric.

Join the patches together by hand or (preferably) machine. Make the area of fabric required for each pattern piece.
[Editors note: This pattern allows for half inch seams throughout.]

For the sleeves, make two pieces of patchwork, each 22 inches by 15½ inches. For the back make one piece, 35½ inches by 26 inches, and, for the fronts, two pieces, each 36 inches by 12½ inches. For the pockets make two pieces, each 9 inches by 8½ inches. Pin the pattern pieces to the patchwork, and cut: one back on the fold; two sleeves; two fronts (remember these must be a left and right mirror image of each other); and two pockets. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the lining fabric and cut out the same pieces.
[Editors note: Patchwork is better lined unless it is something small like a toy.]

Pockets: Place the pocket linings against right sides of pockets, and machine stitch around 3 sides, leaving the top open. Turn the pockets and press, (3 edges are enclosed in the lining). Cut two pocket facings from the facing fabric, each 9 inches by 4 inches. Turn in the short edges of the facings so that they are the same width as the pockets. Place one longer (raw) facing edge to the top raw edge of the pocket and sew in place. Turn facing to inside, tuck raw edge under and stitch. Repeat with the other pocket. Pin pockets to robe fronts in positions indicated on the graph, and top stitch in place.

Sewing up: Tack the patchwork fronts to the lining fronts, wrong sides together. Tack and machine stitch the patchwork layer of the back only to the fronts along the shoulder seams and down the side seams, working on the wrong side. Machine the back lining to the shoulder seams, enclosing all the raw edges, and hem down the side seams. Sew the patchwork sleeve seams, with the raw edges on the wrong side, as usual, and then with right side to right side, ease the sleeves into the armholes; pin, tack and sew. Sew sleeve lining seams, wrong side to wrong side, and hem into place. Tack lining to patchwork all around the edges of the garment.

Facings: From the facing fabric, cut one belt 78 inches by 5 inches, two belt slots, each 3 inches by 2½ inches, two front facings each 39 by 4 inches, one hem 52 inches by 5 inches, and two cuffs, each 21 inches by 5 inches.
[Editors note: For the facings, I cut binding strips 1½in wide on the straight grain of the fabric except for the neck edge as this is curved; here, I cut a strip on the bias and applied it separately, all around the back neck and extending just beyond the shoulder seam. If you don't feel up to making your own binding then you can purchase ready-made bias binding.]
Pin, tack and sew the edge of the facings to the edges of the coat. Turn facings to wrong side, fold under raw edges and hand sew to finish. Finish off cuffs in the same way.
Make up the belt by folding the piece in half lengthwise, and seam along one edge, leaving one end open. Turn the belt so the the seams are on the inside, and press the belt flat. Finish the open end by turning the raw edges inside, and slip stitch in place.
Make up the belt slots and stitch into place at the waist. Pull the belt through the belt slots.

Materials

2½m (112cm width) plain lining fabric.

Fabric scraps, or about 10 fat quarters quilt fabric (usually 112cm or 44 inches wide).

2m cotton fabric for facings (or bias binding).

Dressmaker's squared paper - 1 inch grid (I found only in centimetre grids on the web - 2ins=5cm)

Size matters

One size fits all. However for my version, I altered the pattern below to make it slightly smaller (to fit me); however, as a wrap, it can be worn over-size.

A word on the design

I used floral hexagons for my robe. The original was shown with rectangular patches. See "adaptations".

Adaptations

You can make the robe by cutting the basic design from a plain fabric, which you can use as a conventional lining, or you can apply your patches directly to the lining as a backing, depending on how free form you want to be with your patchwork. You can use any patchwork techniques; I have used a conventional shape, but applied the patches directly on to the backing, overlapping them like roof tiles, and top stitching in place. This method allowed for minor inaccuracies in sizing the patches. I chose the shape of the patch to suit my floral fabric.

happi3.jpg The original robe was a rather pleasing design made of uneven rectangles in geometric and spotted fabrics in 1970s oranges, yellows, and browns. However, I was seduced by the lovely red poppy fabrics in my local quilt shop in Dorking (The Quilt Room) - in consequence I chose a hexagonal shape which I thought better suited the floral effect. I like the effect but also feel that it is a little reminiscent of a table cloth.

scales.jpg I would like to experiment with the fish-scale (or clam-shell) patch in beautiful pale blues and sea-greens to make a bath robe. There are some lovely "watery" batik fabrics available in packs. You could even introduce silvers, and gauzy effects. The fish-scale design can be used as patches, or as a quilting pattern, and is well-suited to the overlapping appliqué method (to better emulate scales).

Whatever you choose, remember to use big patches, otherwise it will be a 20 year project. You could even cheat and choose a fabric with a patchwork pattern, or indeed just decide to use some fabric that pleases you with no patchwork at all!

I wanted to keep the robe as light weight as possible, but you could put in an interlining and then quilt, for a heavier weight padded robe.

Figure 1
happi1.jpg

Figure 2
happi2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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