Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is the "maxi" skirt]

Back and Front alike

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade M, cast on 140/148/156/164 stitches and, starting with a knit row, work 7 rows stocking stitch, increasing 5 stitches evenly across the last row.
[145/153/161/169 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): knit, thus forming ridge for hem-line.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows stocking stitch.

** Join in contrast yarn C and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work rows 1 - 22 inclusive from chart A.

Repeat the 8 pattern stitches across, with the last stitch on knit rows and the first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows instocking stitch in C. Break C. **

Work 10 rows straight.

1st decrease row: (k 10/11/12/13, k2togtbl) twice, knit to last 24/26/28/30 stitches, (k2tog, k 10/11/12/13) twice.
Work 9 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: as 1st. [137/145/153/161 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 9 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **.

*** Work 4 rows straight.
Next decrease row: as 1st.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows twice, then the decrease row once more. ***
121/129/137/145 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 17 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **, then work from *** to ***.
[105/113/121/129 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 25 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

**** Join in C. and work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 needles and work rows 1 - 14 inclusive from chart B.

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch in C.
Break C. ****

Work from *** to ***.
[89/97/105/113 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 31¾ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from **** to ****.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Next decrease row: as1st.
Work 3 rows straight.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0/1/1/2 times more.

Next decrease row: as1st. [81/85/93/97 sts]

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 36½ /37/37/37½ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p 7/10/8/12, (p2tog, p 11/19/13/22) 5/3/5/3 times, p2tog, p 7/10/8/11. [75/81/87/93 sts]

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work in rib as follows
1st row(right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.

Repet the last 2 rows until belt measures 30/32/34/36 inches or the required length.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Special Note: Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for sewing, taking care that the yarn remains twisted during making up.

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join side seams.
Fold hem at ridge to wrong side and slip stitch the hem loosely in position all round.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew inside waist ribbing, using herringbone stitch over the elastic to form a casing.
Press seams.
Make a backing for the belt with the petersham and attach the buckle to one end.

Materials

10/11/12/12 (1 oz) balls double knitting yarn in main shade, chilli, and
4/5/5/6 in contrast shade, pink.

Pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm), 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist.
Buckle and length of petersham for belt.

Tension

23sts and 30 rows to 4 inches using No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit:
34 / 36 / 38 / 40 inch hips;
Length: 37½ / 38 / 38 / 38½ inches.

Abbreviations:

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops, (or "ssk": slip, slip, knit).

M = main colour
C = contrast

A Word on the Wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small [Medium, Large].

Front

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 92 [102, 112] stitches and work 7 rows in kl/pl rib.
Next row (hemline row): Knit to end.

Commence Pattern.

1st row (right side facing)): k17 [20, 23]; p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times; p1, knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle, then knit first stitch - called T2R -, p1; (k1, p1, k1 into the next stitch, p3) 4 times; p1, knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle tbl, then knit first stitch - called T2L -, p1; k1tbl (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times; p2, k6, p2, k17 [20, 23].
2nd Row: p17 [20, 23]; k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (p3tog, k3) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2; p17 [20, 23].
3rd Row: k17 [20, 23]; p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, T2R, p1, (p3, then k1 p1, k1 into the next stitch) 4 times, p1, T2L, p1, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, k6, p2, k17 [20, 23].
4th Row: p17 [20, 23]; k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (k3, p3tog) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2, p17 [20, 23].
5th Row: as 1st row.
6th Row: as 2nd row.
7th Row: p17 [20, 23], p2, slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 from cable needle - called C6B -, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, T2R, p1, (p3, then k1, p1, k1 into the next stitch) 4 times, p1, T2L, p1, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at front of work, k3 stitches then k3 from cable needle - called C6F -, p2, p17 [20, 23].
8th Row: p17 [20, 23], k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (k3, p3tog) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, k2, p6, k2, p17 [20, 23].

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Keeping pattern correct, decrease one stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until 80 [88, 96] stitches remain.

Continue without shaping until works measures 11½ [13, 15½] inches from hemline, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape armholes: by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease one stitch at each end of the next 3 [4, 5] rows, then at each end of the following alternate row. 64 [70, 76] stitches.

Continue without shaping until armhole measures 3 [3½, 4] inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape neck:
Next Row: pattern 20 [22, 24]. Turn.
Leave remaining stitches on a holder or spare needle.
Complete this side first, by decreasing one stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following alternate row until 16 [18, 20] stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and following alternate row 4 [5, 6] stitches once and 12 [13, 14] stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 24 [26, 28] stitches on to a holder for the centre front neck, and rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches. Complete to match the first side, reversing shaping.

Back

Work as given for the Front until armhole shaping is completed.
Continue without shaping until armholes measure the same as the front to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and every row 4 [5, 6] stitches twice, and then 12 [13, 14] stitches twice.
Leave the remaining 32 [34, 36] stitches on a holder for centre back neck.

Sleeves

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 34 [36, 40] stitches.
Work 17 rows k1/p1 rib, increasing one stitch at the end of the last row on the 2nd size only: 34 [37, 40] stitches.

Next Row k1, * increase in next stitch, rib 2; repeat from * to end:
45 [49, 53] stitches.

Commence working the pattern.

1st Row (right side facing): k9 [10, 11], p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, k6, p2, k9 [10, 11].
2nd Row: p9 [10, 11], k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2, p9 [10, 11].

Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

7th Row: p9 [10, 11], p2, C6B, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, C6F, p2, p9 [10, 11].
8th Row: as 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern. Keeping the pattern correct, increase one stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 49 [55, 61] stitches.

Change to No 8 (4m) needles.
Continue without shaping until sleeve measures 8½ [10, 11½] inches from the beginning, ending with the same wrong side pattern row as on the Front and Back at the underarm.

Shape top:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and every row 4 stitches twice, one stitches 6 times, 2 stitches 10 [12, 14] times, and 15 [17, 19] stitches once.

Polo neck

Join right shoulder seam.
Using No 10 needles, and with right side of work facing, begin at the left front shoulder and knit up 10 stitches down left front neck, knit across 24 [26, 28] stitches on the holder for the front neck, knit up 10 stitches up the right front neck; then knit across 32 [34, 36] stitches on the holder for the back neck: 76 [80, 84]

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 8 needles and work 18 rows k1, p1,rib.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Do not press.
Join left shoulder seam.
Set in sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn hem at lower edge to wrong side and slip stitch in place.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 40g balls -
6 [6, 7]

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch

Size matters

To fit chest:
22 [24, 26] inches;
length to shoulder: 16 [18, 21] inches; sleeve seam: 8½ [10, 11½] inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit through back loops
T2R: twist 2 stitches right - knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle, then knit first stitch
T2L: twist 2 stitches left - knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle tbl, then knit first stitch
C6B: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 from cable needle
C6F: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 from cable needle
p3tog: purl 3 stitches together.
[Editor's note: This is part of the "trinity" or "blackberry" stitch pattern for the centre panel, where you increase twice in a stitch on the knit rows and then purl those three stitches together on the purl rows, thus making a bobble; the positioning of the bobbles is alternated over a 4 row pattern repeat.]

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard synthetic double knitting crepe yarn. Possibly about 100m per 40g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

One Size only.
Note: Carry colours not in use loosely up side of work.
B: Main shade (blue); G: 1st contrast (grey); W: 2nd contrast (white).

Left Side

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade Blue (B), cast on 116 stitches and noting that 1st row is a wrong side row, work 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).

Change to No 7 (4½mm ) needles and continue in garter stitch and stripes of 6 rows 1st Contrast Grey (G), 4 rows 2nd Contrast White (W) and 8 rows main shade Blue (B), until work measures 7 inches, ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping continuity of stripes, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 66 stitches remain.

Work 2 rows.
Cast off.

Right Side

Work as for Left Side but shaping the armhole by decreasing at the end of the rows instead of the beginning.

Making up and borders

Do not press.
Using a flat seam, join the straight side edges to form the centre back seam.

Arm Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles
and B, knit up 84 stitches along the shaped edges.
Work 6 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Fold Arm Borders in half (right sides inside) so that the short side edges meet the cast-off edges.
Join these edges together with a fine back-stitch seam.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting yarn, 25% wool , 75% acrylic. For this pattern it's loosely knitted on 4½mm needles.

Materials

DK 50g balls:
3 in main shade
2 in 1st contrast
1 in 2nd contrast

One pair each of No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 28 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 108 (114, 120) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work in twisted stocking stitch thus:
1st Row: knit across all stitches through back loop (ktbl).
2nd Row: purl.
These 2 rows form twisted stocking stitch ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch until work measures 16 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 80 (84, 88) stitches remain ★★.

Continue straight until work measures 23 (23½, 24) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 6 (7, 8) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 36 (38, 40) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the back neck.

Jumper Front

Work as for the back up to ★★.
Continue straight until work measures 21 (21½, 22) inches, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: ktbl 29 (30, 31) stitches; turn.
Continue on these stitches only.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows.
Work 8 rows straight.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches.

With right side facing, slip the centre 22 (24, 26) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Complete the other side of the neck to match.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 11 needles, cast on 44 (46, 48) stitches.
Work as for the back to ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 72 (78, 84) stitches
Continue straight until work measures 17 inches.

To shape the top cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 stitches remain; then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 10 rows.
Cast off.

Jumper Polo Collar

Join the right shoulder.
With right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 18 stitches down the left side of the neck, ktbl the stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 18 stitches up the right side of the neck, ktbl
the stitches from the back neck. [94 (98, 102) sts]

Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 9 needles and rib a further 3½ inches.
Cast off loosely ribwise.

Sleeveless Cardigan Back

Using No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 115 (123, 131) stitches.

Moss Stitch row: k1, (p1, k1) to end.

Editors note: Moss stitch - or "seed stitch" - is worked by alternating knit and purl stitches on every row - like ribbing. However, unlike ribbing, you do not align the knit and purl stitches vertically above each other but do the exact opposite; so, as you view the stitches, you will knit a stitch showing a purl "bump" from the previous row, and purl into a knit stitch.
"Double moss stitch" (not seen in this pattern) is usually where you do 2 rows of apparent rib with the stitches aligned vertically, then for the next two "rib" rows you misalign them with the previous two rows - and so on.
The row given above works up into moss stitch when repeated on an odd number of stitches.

Repeat the Moss Stitch row row 9 times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st Row: with main shade M, k1, (sl1 purlwise, k3) to the last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, k1.
2nd Row: with M, p1, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p1.
3rd Row: join in first contrast (O), (sl1 purlwise, k3) to end.
4th Row: with O, p3, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to end.
5th and 6th Rows: with 2nd contrast (R) work as 1st and 2nd rows.
7th and 8th Rows: with 3rd contrast (G) work as 3rd and 4th rows.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Pattern until work measures 21 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 83 (87, 91) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Work as for the back of the sweater.
Leave the remaining 39 (41, 43) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Editors note: Although the original pattern explicitly states to leave these stitches, I do not see why you would not cast them off at this point - given that you are not required to pick them up again at any point later on, and the edging band is designed to be sewn all around the fronts and back neck.

Sleeveless Cardigan Right Front

Using No. 11 needles and M cast on 59 (63, 67) stitches.
Work as for the back up to the armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Armhole and Front Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 (10, 11) rows, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row; then continue shaping front edge only, until 22 (23, 24) stitches remain.
Work 5 rows.

Shoulder Shaping :
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches

Sleeveless Cardigan Left Front

Work as for the right front, reversing shapings.

Sleeveless Cardigan Bands

Join shoulders.
Using No 11 needles and main shade cast on 9 stitches.
Work 2 inches in moss stitch.

Next Row (make buttonhole): moss stitch 3, cast off 3, moss stitch 3.
Next Row: moss stitch 3, cast on 3, moss stitch 3.
Continue in moss stitch, making further buttonholes 2½ inches apart (measure from base of previous buttonhole) until there are 8 in all.
Continue until band, when slightly stretched, fits all around both fronts
and across back neck.
Cast off.

Work the armbands in the same way, omitting the buttonholes.

Skirt (Back and Front Alike)

Using No 11 needles and colour M, cast on 147 (155, 163) stitches.
Work 10 rows in moss stitch.
Change to No 8 needles and working in pattern as for the sleeveless cardigan, decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row until 101 (109, 117 ) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 20 (20½, 21) inches.

Change to No 11 needles, and using M, work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row with "p1".
Cast off loosely ribwise.

Making Up

Press or block work according to yarn type.

Sweater:
Join the left shoulder and polo collar seams.
Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Sleeveless Cardigan:
Join the side seams.
Sew on the front band.
Join the cast-on and cast-off edges of the armbands.
Sew on the armbands with the seam placed at the underarms.
Sew on the buttons.

Skirt:
Join the side seams.
Join the elastic in a ring and attach to the wrong side of the waist with a herringbone casing.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 1 oz balls:
Jumper:
16 (17, 18)
Sleeveless cardigan:
5 (5, 6) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours
Skirt:
3 (3, 3) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 9 (3¾mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

8 buttons for cardigan.
Waist-length elastic for skirt

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over twisted stocking stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

24 sts x 40 rows measured over Pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34, (36, 38) inches; hips 36 (38, 40) inches.

Sleeveless cardigan length: 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Skirt length:
21 (21½, 22) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit the stitch through the back loop (thus twisting the stitch)
k2tog/p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.

M - Gold
O - Orange
R - Red
G - Green

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a pure wool double knitting crepe.

The later yarn sold in 50g balls states a yardage of 123yds/112m per 50g.

Colours illustrated:
Sun Gold,
Mexican Orange,
Love Apple Red,
Woodland Green.
Suggested other combinations:
Ivory, Peach,
Roman Pink, and
Medoc - or -
White, Peacock.
Club Navy, and
Aubretia.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Jumper Back

★ Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib for 1½ inches ending with a wrong side row.

Change to size 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Continue until work measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows ★ until 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from ★ to ★, until 42 (44, 44, 46) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: k2, p2tog , k10 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following alternate row until 5 stitches remain.
Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge until 2 stitches remain, working the decreases at the outer armhole edge when they can no longer be worked inside the border of 2 stitches.

Work 1 row; k2tog, and fasten off.

Slip the centre 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in the yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches; knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog , k2.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Sleeves

Using size 12 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) stitches and work in k1/ p1 rib for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 52 (56, 60, 64) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a flat stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open. With the right side of the work facing and using size 12 needles, knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 12 stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches at the centre; pick up and knit 12 stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on top of the Right Sleeve, and the 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches on the back neck.
[76 (84, 84, 92) sts.]

Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ inch.
Cast off in rib.

Leggings - right leg

★ Using size 12 needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 4, * yfwd., k2tog, rib 2. Repeat from * to end.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Change to size 10 needles and work as follows. ★

Shape Back

1st row: knit 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: knit 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: purl to end.
5th row: knit 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: purl to end.
7th row: knit 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: purl to end.

★★ Continue in stocking stitch, working across all stitches for 28 (32, 32, 34) rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 5th row until there are 88 (92, 96, 100) stitches on the needle, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 2 rows. [92 (96, 100, 104) sts]

Commence Leg Shaping by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 66 (72, 76, 80) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row until 38 (38, 42, 42) stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 16½ (17¼, 17¾, 18½) inches at the longest (back) edge, ending with a purl row. ★★

Materials

4 ply yarn 25g balls:
Jumper: 3 (3, 4, 5)
Leggings: 4 (4, 5, 5)
Beret: 2 (2, 2, 2)

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

4 inch zip fastener for jumper
Elastic for leggings waist

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
19 (20, 21, 22) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: work two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")
stocking stitch: alternate Rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a superwash wool. It appeared as 1 oz balls, then as per this pattern in 25g balls, and finally in 50g balls.

Possible yardage based on the 50g ball information is 93 yards (85 metres) to 25g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Sweater Back and Front alike:

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 11 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).

Work 10 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row. *
Change to No 9 needles, join in C, and work the pattern from the chart. Work the odd rows as knit, reading the chart from right to left, and repeating the 12 stitches before the dotted line to the last stitch, then k1 stitch beyond the dotted line. Work the even rows as purl, reading the chart from left to right, purling the first stitch (before dotted line), and then repeating the 12 stitches beyond dotted line to end.

Continue until 3 complete patterns have been worked (or until work measures 16 inches from hemline), ending with a purl row.
Break off C.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch with MC.

Shoulder Shaping: Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Purl 1 row (hemline). Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row. Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 49 stitches.
Work as back to *.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for the back, increase 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there
are 61 stitches
Continue until the 26th row of the 2nd pattern has been worked (or until the sleeve measures 10 inches from the hemline).
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Trousers Right Leg:

Beginning at the ankle, with No 10 needles, and MC cast on 76 stitches. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch knit 1 row (hemline).
Change to No 9 needles and continue in stocking stitch until leg
measures 15 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.
Continue straight, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until there are 88 stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Mark each end of last row for the top of the leg.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until 68 stitches remain. Continue until work measures 24½ inches from hemline *, ending with a knit row. **

Shape back by working short rows thus:
Purl 12; turn, knit to end.
Purl 24; turn, knit to end.
Purl 36; turn, knit to end.
Purl 48; turn, knit to end.
Next row: Purl across all stitches.

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Trousers Left Leg:

Work as right leg to *, ending with a purl row.
Complete as right leg from ** but working knit instead of purl, and purl
instead of knit.

Hat:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 97 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row p1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back of sweater until one complete pattern from the chart has been worked (or until work measures 5½ inches), ending with a purl row.
Break off C and continue with MC only.

Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of 1st row. [96 sts].

Shape top thus:
Next row: (k2tog, k6); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k5); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k4); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 24 stitches remain. Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog); repeat to end. [12 sts]
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Mitts (make 2 alike):

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 39 stitches.
Work 2 inches rib as beginning of hat.
Change to No 9 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch.
Shape Thumb thus:
Next row: k19, pick up loop that lies before next stitch and knit it through back loop (referred to as make 1), k1, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k19, m1, k3, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Continue to increase in this way, working 2 stitches more between the increases on every alternate row until there are 51 stitches
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k32; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Next row: p14; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch on these 15 stitches
Next row: (k2tog, k 1) 5 times.
Next row: (p2tog) 5 times.
Break off wool, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and
fasten off securely.
Join thumb seam.

With right side facing and 32 stitches on right hand needle, rejoin yarn at the base of the thumb; pick up and knit 2 stitches at the base of thumb, knit the 6 stitches to the end of the row end. [40 sts].
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch on these stitches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k14, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k12, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: ( k2tog) across row to end.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press or block work.

Sweater: Join shoulder and neck facing seams.
Sew top of sleeves to sides, beginning and ending 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn in hems and catch-stitch in place.

Trousers: Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up hems and catch-stitch in place.
Join elastic in ring and attach to wrong side of waist with herringbone casing.

Hat: Join seam.
Make pompon and sew on top.

Mitts: Join seam.

Materials

Worked in a standard double knitting yarn (swatch as per tension given).

Sweater:
6 oz main colour, and 4 oz contrast.

Hat:
2 oz main colour, and 1 oz contrast.

Trousers:
9 oz main colour.

Mitts:
2 oz main colour.

Pair each of No 9 (3¾mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Waist length of elastic.

Tension

26sts to 4 inches over fair-isle, 24sts over stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

Sweater:
To fit 24 inch chest; length 16½ inches; sleeve: 10 inches.

Trousers:
Width around widest part 26 inches;
leg length 16½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

MC = main colour
C = contrast

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike:

With No 13 (2¼mm) needles cast on 112 / 120 / 128 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to end, finishing last repeat k3.
5th row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to end, ending last repeat k2.
7th row: as 3rd row.
9th row: knit
11th row: k7, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to last stitch, k1.
13th row: k5, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to last 3 stitches, k3.
15th row: as 11th row.
16th row: purl.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern and increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 128 / 136 / 144 stitches.
Then continue straight until work measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Armhole Shaping: Cast off 4 / 5 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Armhole Shaping:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 40, turn.
Continue on these stitches only, casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows; at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 7 rows.
Knit the last 2 stitches together and fasten off.

With right side facing, cast off the centre 28/ 32 / 36 stitches.
Complete to match the first side.

Frill (two pieces alike)

With No 12 needles and contrast edge colour, cast 168/ 184 / 200 stitches.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Break off contrast edge colour, join on main colour, and repeat the
16 pattern rows of the main part twice, then repeat 1st to 8th rows once more.
Next row: k 0 / 1 / 2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from * to end.
Change to No 13 needles. Beginning with a purl row, work 4 rows stocking stitch, then knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch for the casing.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press lightly.
Join side seams.

Armhole Edgings: With right side facing, using No 13 needles, pick up and k32 / 36 / 40 stitches around the armhole edge.
Knit 1 row. Cast off

Join side edges of frill. Fold cast-on edge to wrong side at hemline and sew down, leaving an opening to insert elastic.
Stitch centre of each "side" of the frill to the entire neck shaping of back and front, leaving remainder free at each side to complete armholes.
Thread elastic through casing; adjust to fit and join ends. Close opening.

Materials

Fingering 3 ply weight metallic yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 25g balls in main colour, and 1 ball for the edging detail.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm), and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to four inches

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 / 34 / 36 inches;
length: 18 / 18½ / 19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch [also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A Word on the Wool.

The original yarn was Twilleys Goldfingering - available in 25g balls with a yardage of 100m (109yds), 80% Viscose 20% Metallised Polyester.
Although the Twilleys company wound up in 2007, Goldfingering is currently still fairly widely available - and in some rather inspiring colours. At time of writing, for example, the colour 05 silver is on special offer here, (the picture shows the colour "pewter" with edging in "ebony").

Instructions.

Instructions are (unusually for this era) given for only one medium/small size.
This is originally a French pattern, and before you begin, I recommend you read through the instructions thoroughly, and refer to the photographs, in order to understand how the pattern progresses.

Vertical cable stitch:

Editors note: You begin working the diagonal pattern, and then gradually move to this vertical cable. So these instructions are incorporated into the diagonal pattern below.

Made over 4 stitches in stocking stitch:
On every 6th row, make a cable by slipping the first 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work, knitting the next 2 stitches, then knitting the 2 stitches from cable needle.

Diagonal pattern stitch:

1st row: Cast on 1 stitch, (edge stitch) then, * p6, k1, increase 1 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6.
Cast cast on 1 stitch (edge stitch)
2nd and every even numbered row: k1, (edge stitch); purl to the last stitch, k1, (edge stitch).
3rd row: k1, (edge stitch); * p5, slip the next 2 stitches on to the cable needle to the back of work: knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k1 (edge stitch).
5th row: knit twice into the first stitch, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, knit twice into the last stitch.
7th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p4, k1, p3, k1.
9th row: k1, p3, * Cross the Cable by slipping 3 stitches on to the cable needle, place to the back of the work, k2, then k2, p1 from cable needle; p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k2, p3, k1.
11th row: k1, p2, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k3, p3, k1.
13th row: k1, p1, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with k4, p3, k1.
15th row: k1, * Cross the Cable as in the 9th row, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p5, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
17th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k3, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p6, k4, p3, k1.
19th row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k2, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p7, k4, p3, k1.
21st row: k1, slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle to the back of the work, k1, then purl the stitch from the cable needle, * p4, Cross the Cable as in the 9th row *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p8, then a vertical cable on the next 4 stitches, p3, k1.
23rd row: k1, p5, * Cross5, p4 *; repeat from * to *, ending row with p9, k4, p3, k1.
25th row: k1 (edge stitch), * p4, Cross5 *; repeat from * to *, ending after the last oblique cable with p4, k1, p5, k4, p3, k1. This marks the beginning of a new vertical cable at 5 stitches from the first vertical cable as on the 7th row. Continue thus, forming new vertical cables in the same way as the work proceeds, with the oblique cables petering out at the right side edge.

Front:

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 94 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib (beginning first row p2), for 4 inches .
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in pattern (109 stitches at the completion of the 5th row).
When the work measures 11½ inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Armholes,by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; and 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 6 rows.

Continue to work in pattern until the work measures 15½ inches from the top of the ribbing, then Shape the Neck by casting off the centre 21 stitches, and then finish each side separately.
At the neck edge on alternate rows, cast off 4 stitches once, 2 stitches once, and 1 stitch 3 times. Continue to work in pattern until the armhole measures 7½ inches then Shape the Shoulders:
at the armhole edge on alternate rows, cast off 6 stitches 4 times.

Back:

With No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 94 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib (beginning first row p2), for 4 inches .
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in pattern, omitting to to work the increase at each side edge on the 1st and 5th rows, so at the completion of the 5th row there are 105 stitches on the needle.
Begin the 1st row with k1 (edge stitch), p5, k1, increase 1 etc...
and end it with p5, k1 (edge stitch).
Begin the 3rd row with k1 (edge stitch), p4, then cross the stitches, and end with p5, k1 (edge stitch)
Begin the 5th row with with k1 (edge stitch), p3, and end it with p5, k1 (edge stitch).

Continue the pattern, working 2 stitches fewer at the beginning and end of rows.

When the work measures 11½ inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Armholes,by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; and 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

When the work measures 18 inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape the Neck, by casting off the centre 23 stitches, and then finish each side separately.
At the neck edge on alternate rows, cast off 4 stitches once, 2 stitches twice, and at the same time Shape the Shoulders:
at the armhole edge on alternate rows, by casting off 6 stitches 4 times.

Sleeves:

With No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 48 stitches and work in k2, p2 rib for 4½ inches.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work in garter stitch (every row knitted), increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 16th row 6 times.

When the work measures 13 inches from the top of the ribbing,
Shape Top, by casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th rows twice.
Then cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 28 rows, 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and finally cast off the remaining 14 stitches.

Neckband:

With the No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 110 stitches, and work in garter stitch for 3 rows. Cast off.

To Make Up:

Sew up the side and shoulder seams.
Sew the sleeve seams and set in the sleeves.
Join the neckband into a ring and sew it around the neck edge.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Double Knitting: 8 x 50g (synthetic fibre = 1000 metres)

A pair each No 8 (4mm), No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.
A cable needle.

Tension

23 sts x 48 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 34 inch bust.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.

Cross5: slip 1 stitch on to the cable needle, place at back of work, k4, then purl the stitch from the cable needle.

increase: increase by knitting twice into the next stitch.

decrease: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

stocking stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side (aka stockinette).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

The pullover is given in one (medium man's) size and is worked using the Fair-Isle technique, with colours not in use stranded loosely across back of work.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 175 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles, and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Continue in stocking stitch, working the pattern from the chart thus: reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right. Work the 87 pattern stitch repeat twice across.

Continue working rows from the chart until the 12th row of the 4th pattern repeat has been completed. **

Armhole shaping: cast off 13 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until the 18th row of the 6th pattern repeat has been completed.
Cast off.

Front

Work as for the back until **.

Armhole and neck Shaping:
Next row: cast off 13, pattern 74. Turn.
Purl back in pattern.
Continue on these 75 stitches only.
Next row: knit in pattern to last 4 stitches; k2tog, k2.
Next row: purl in pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 61 stitches remain, then decrease in the same way at the neck edge on every 4th row until 52 stitches remain.
Work 7 rows.
Cast off.

Join wool to inner (neck) edge of the remaining stitches.
Cast off 1 stitch, and complete to match the first side, working "sl1, k1, psso" instead of k2tog for the neck shaping.

Sleeves

Begin at the top of the sleeve.

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade yarn cast on 135 stitches. Knit one row.

Beginning with the 16th row of the chart (a purl row worked from left to right), work thus:
Work 1 stitch to the right of the dotted line, work the (next 6 stitches) 5 times, work the last stitch.

Continue in pattern as set, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 5th row until 87 stitches remain.
Continue straight until 4 complete patterns have been worked.
Work the first 3 rows again.

Continue with main shade only and work 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and work 3 inches in rib as for the back. Cast off ribwise.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade, pick up and knit 54 stitches down left front neck, 1 stitch from centre front, 54 stitches up right front neck, and 50 stitches across back neck. [159 sts]

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row, then work 10 rows k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front stitch on every row.
Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join the left shoulder and neckband seams.
Set in sleeves, joining 1½ inches of the sides of the sleeves to the cast off groups at the armhole.
Join the side and sleeve seams.
Fold the neckband in half to the wrong side and catch stitch in place.

Materials

Shetland 2 ply jumper weight (fingering yarn):
7 x 1oz balls in main shade plus 1 oz each in 9 contrast colours: green, grey/brown (light and dark), pink, yellow (light and dark), moss green, mauve, white.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Tension

32sts x 32 rows to 4 inches over Fair Isle stitch.
[This is basically a 4 ply equivalent]

Size matters

Chest to fit one size: 40-42 inches.
Length: 25½ inches.
Sleeve: 20½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

Original yarn "Real Shetland Knitting Wool 2 ply jumper weight" stated as available from a supplier in Edinburgh is likely to be the 2 ply jumper weight from Jamieson and Smith. It's a 4 ply equivalent specifically designed for Fair Isle knitting, and is available in 25g balls from a number of different suppliers in an extensive range of colours.
Editors note: Sadly you have to pay somewhat more than the 19p price per ball quoted for the original yarn in the 1970s!

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The basic dolls are identical, differing only in hair and clothing.

Girl Doll - head (2 pieces alike):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 12 stitches.
Working in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 rows, then increase stitch each end of the following 5 alternate rows. Then, increase 1 stitch each end of every 3rd row until there are 46 stitches.
Work 15 rows straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 3rd row
until 40 stitches remain.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the following 5 alternate rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 12 stitches remain. Cast off.

Make a second piece the same and join together, leaving cast-on edges open.
Stuff firmly.

Girl Doll - body (2 pieces alike):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 24 stitches.
Work 22 rows stocking stitch.
Then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 5 rows straight.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 5th row until there are 32 stitches.
Work 5 rows straight.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the following 3 alternate rows.
Work 3 rows straight.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 17 rows straight.
Cast off.

Make a second piece the same and join together, leaving cast-off edges open.
Stuff firmly and sew to head opening.

Girl Doll - legs (make 2):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 38 stitches.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch.

Next Row: k14, k2tog, k6, k2togtbl, k14.
Next Row: p13, p2togtbl, p6, p2tog, p13.
Continue decreasing as set on every row, working 1 stitch less at the beginning and end of the rows until 26 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 12 inches.
Cast off.

Join back and foot seams.
Stuff; close opening and sew to body.

Girl Doll - arms (make 2):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 25 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch until work measures 7 inches, ending after a purl row.

Next Row: k1, (m1, k11, m1, k1) twice.
Purl one row.
Next Row: k1, (m1, k13, m1, k1) twice.
Purl one row.
Next Row: k1, (m1, k15, m1, k1) twice.

Work 11 rows straight.
Next Row: k1, (k2togtbl, k13, k2tog, k1) twice.
Next Row: p1, (p2tog, p11, p2togtbl, p1) twice.

Continue to decrease as set on the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Join side and hand seams.
Stuff; close opening and sew to body.

Girl Doll - hair:

Cut brown yarn in 36 inch lengths. With centre of strands of yarn at centre of head, arrange evenly over head from front hairline to nape of neck, backstitching securely over centre for parting.
Smooth down to ear level, catch down, then plait ends, tie and trim.

Girl Doll - features:

Cut oval sections, as given in the diagram, for eyes, (white felt); centres (black), mouth (red); sew on as shown in picture.

Girl Doll - jumper:

BACK: With No 9 needles and Red yarn, cast on 48 stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. Break off red yarn, and join in Navy yarn.
*

** Continue in stocking-stitch until work measures 3¼ inches, ending with a purl row.

Next Row (make back opening): k26; turn.
Next Row: k4, purl to end.
Next Row: knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 5¼ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape the armhole by casting off 3 stitches at the armhole edge on the next 3 rows.
Continue until work measures 8 inches.
Cast off.

Rejoin yarn to the inner edge of the remaining stitches, cast on 4 stitches, and complete to match the other side.

FRONT: Work exactly as for BACK as far as *.
Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5¼ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next 3 rows.
**

Neck shaping:
Next Row: k12; turn.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows.
Cast off.

Slip the centre 12 stitches on to a stitch holder and work the other side of the neck to match.

SLEEVES: With No 9 needles and Red yarn, cast on 40 stitches, and work as for the BACK up to *.

Continue in stocking stitch, until work measures 2 inches, ending with a purl row.
To shape the top, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off.

NECKBAND: Join the shoulder seams.
With No 9 needles and Red yarn, starting and the centre back, pick up and knit 48 stitches around the neck, including the stitches on the holder.
Rib 3 rows, and cast off loosely in rib.

Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Sew on 3 press studs down the back opening.

CHERRIES: Cut two circles in red felt - about the size of a 1p piece. Sew on and embroider stems with white yarn as shown in the photo.

Girl Doll - trousers:

LEGS (2 pieces alike): With No 9 needles and Red yarn, cast on 42 stitches. Work in stocking stitch, until work measures 8 inches, ending with a purl row.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row.
Work 3 rows.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 3 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch, until work measures 12½ inches.
Cast off.

Make a second leg the same.

Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up ½ inch hems to right side on legs and catch stitch in place.
Turn in ½ inch hem at waist, enclosing a ring of elastic, and catch stitch in place.

Girl Doll - socks:

With No 9 needles and Green yarn, cast on 46 stitches.
Work 10 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: k17, k2tog, k8, k2togtbl, k17.
Next Row: p16, p2togtbl, p8, p2tog, p16.

Working in stripes of 2 rows Red, and and 2 rows Green, continue decreasing as set until 32 stitches remain.
Pattern 13 rows.
Still working in stripes, knit 1 row, then rib 3 rows, and cast off in rib.
Join leg and foot seam.

Girl Doll - shoes:

Cut out 4 upper sections and 2 soles from red felt, using the pattern given in the diagram.
Join heel and toe seams.
Sew the lower edge of the upper around the sole.

Boy Doll - head, body, legs, and arms:

Work exactly as for GIRL doll.

Boy Doll - hair:

Using a darning needle and 2 strands of dark brown yarn, work around hair line, then then fill centre thus:
Wind the yarn three times around 2 fingers of your left hand and back stitch these loops to the head. Stitch the next 3 loops close to the previous loops, and continue in this way, covering the head densely.

Boy Doll - features:

Exactly as the GIRL doll.

Boy Doll - jumper:

BACK: With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 48 stitches.
Work 8 rows in stocking-stitch.
Join in Light Blue yarn, and work 2 rows, then break off Light Blue.
Continue in Blue. ***

Complete the back as for the GIRL doll's jumper, starting from **.

FRONT: Work exactly as for BACK (above) as far as ***.
Then continue to work as for the GIRL's jumper as far as **.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next 3 rows.
**

Neck shaping:
Next Row (wrong side facing): p16; turn.
Next Row: k2, k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Cast off.

Rejoin the yarn to the inner edge of the remaining stitches, and work the other side to match, working k2togtbl, instead of k2tog.

SLEEVES: With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 40 stitches, and work as for the (Boy's) BACK up to ***.

Continue in stocking stitch, until work measures 2½ inches, ending with a purl row.
To shape the top, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off.

NECK INSET:
With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 3 stitches.
Work 2 rows in stocking stitch.
Working in stripes of 2 rows Light Blue and 2 rows Blue, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until there are 15 stitches.
Cast off knitwise.

COLLAR:
With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 36 stitches.
Working 1 stitch knit at each end of ever purl row, work as for the (Boy's) BACK up to ***.
Work 13 rows straight.
Next Row: k1, p11, cast off knitwise the next 12 stitches, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continue on these stitches only.
Still working the garter stitch edge as set, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until 2 stitches remain.
Knit 3 rows.
K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to inner edge of remaining stitches, and work other side to match.

Join shoulders.
Sew in inset.
Sew press studs to collar to points to fasten at centre front.
Sew on 3 press studs down the back opening.
Set in sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn under ½ inch hems at lower edge, collar and sleeves and catch stitch in place.

Boy Doll - trousers:

Work as for the GIRL doll's trousers but using Blue yarn, and turning all the hems to the wrong side.

Boy Doll - boots:

Cut out 4 upper sections and 2 soles from white felt, using the pattern given in the diagram.
Cut 4 circles in red felt about the size of a 10p piece, and sew on each side of the heel for decoration, as shown.
Join heel and toe seams of uppers, and sew around sole.
With white thread, work stitching line as shown by broken line.
Pierce eyelet holes and lace with Blue yarn.

Materials

Double knitting yarn in 20g balls:

Girl Doll:
• 6 balls in flesh colour;
• 4 balls in red;
• 4 balls in brown;
• 3 balls navy, and
• 1 ball in lime green.
• One 6-inch square of red felt and scraps of white and black felt for shoes, cherries and features.
• 3 press studs and a waist length of elastic.

Boy Doll:.
• 6 balls in dark blue;
• 4 balls dark brown;
• 1 ball in light blue.
• One 6-inch square of white felt and scraps of red and black felt for boots and features.
• 5 press studs and a waist length of elastic.

• A pair each of Nos 11 (3mm) and 9 (3¾mm) knitting needles
• Stuffing for each doll.

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 11 needles.
24sts x 32 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Height 24 inches.

Abbreviations

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops (also known as ssk - "slip, slip, knit")
p2tog: purl 2 sts together
p2togtbl: purl 2 sts together through back loops

A Word
on the Wool.

The original yarn was a courtelle bri-nylon standard double knitting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Pattern Diagram

This is the pattern for the felt pieces used for the features, shoes, and boots.
It is mapped on to a grid of 1 inch squares, (subdivided into eighths), originally designed for you to draw it out yourself on to a grid of 1 inch squares. You can download pdf files of printable graph paper from the web - you need 8 lines to the inch.

Instructions.

The socks are worked on two needles.

Right Leg

**

Using No 11 needles and colour A, cast on 80 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): p1, * k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 2 inches (5cm) from the start, ending with a wrong side row.

Join in colour B. Beginning with a knit row, continue in stocking stitch, (1 row knit, 1 row purl), working in striped sequence of 4 rows B, 2 rows A, 4 rows C, 2 rows A, 4 rows D, 2 rows A, 4 rows E and 2 rows A throughout.
Continue in pattern until work measures 5 inches (12½cm) from the start, ending with a purl row.

Shape leg:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches k2tog, k1.

Keeping striped sequence correct. Continue in this way, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 60 stitches remain.
Continue without shaping until work measures 13½ inches (34½ cm)
from the start, or required length, ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for heel and instep

With right side of work facing, slip the first 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the heel.
Keeping the striped sequence correct, knit the next 30 stitches for the instep; turn; slip the last 15 stitches on to a stitch holder for the other side of the heel.

Instep

Work 6½ inches (16½cm) in the striped sequence for the instep, ending with 2 rows in colour A (wrong side row).

Editor's note: Now you need to decide if you want "normal" socks, or socks with separate toes - useful for bar-toe sandals! - and if you are knitting toes then you leave the stitches on a stitch holder at this point while you continue to knit the heel.

Shape instep top without toes ("normal" sock)

Next row: Using colour A throughout, k1,sl1, psso; knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Next row: purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Version including toes

Break off yarn and leave the stitches on a holder while you continue with the instructions to shape the heel.

Shape heel

Editor's note: heel shaping instructions for both versions of sock, with or without toes.

Slip the 30 stitches you previously left on holders on to the needle, placing the outside edges together in the middle.
Editor's note: you have curled the edges of the sock round to form a tube shape - but you continue to knit the heel just on these 30 stitches, back and forth using 2 needles.

Using colour A and with right side of work facing, shape the heel, working short rows as follows:

1st row (right side facing): sl1 knitwise, k28. Turn.
2nd row: sl1 purlwise, p27. Turn.
3rd row: sl1 knitwise, k26. Turn.
4th row: sl1 purlwise, p25. Turn.

Continue in this way, working one stitch less on every row until you have worked the row: "sl1 purlwise, p13. Turn." has been completed, leaving 8 stitches unworked at each side.

Next row: sl1 knitwise, k13. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and knit it together with the next stitch. Turn.
Next row: sl1 purlwise, p14. Pick up the loop lying between
the needles and purl it together with the next stitch. Turn.

Continue working one more stitch on every row until you have picked up all the stitches and there are 30 stitches.
Matching the striped sequence with that on the instep, knit the sole by continuing in stocking stitch without shaping until the sole measures the same as the instep.

Shape sole top without toes ("normal" sock)

Shape the top by working exactly the same as for the instep shaping.

**

Version including toes

Having completed the heel, return to the instep stitches that you left on a holder.

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across instep stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the sole. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Using A throughout, and working on these 24 stitches, work 16 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Second toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour B, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the big toe. K5 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using B throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 14 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: work as for 1st row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Third toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour C, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the second toe.
K5 stitches, turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p15. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [17 sts]

Using C throughout, and working on these 17 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the third toe shaping as given for second toe.

Fourth toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour D, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the third toe. K4 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: p13, turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [15 sts]

Using D throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 12 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape top:
1st row: k2tog all across the row to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog all across the row.
Break off yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.
Join seam to base of toe.

Little toe

With right side of work facing, using the right hand needle and colour E, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the fourth toe. Knit to end. Turn.
Next row: purl to end. [15 sts]

Using E throughout, and working on these 15 stitches, work 10 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete the little toe shaping as given for the fourth toe.

Left Leg

Work as for right leg from ** to **.
This completes the version without separate toes.

Version including toes

Set the position of the toes for the left foot as follows:

Big toe:

Next row: Using colour A, knit across the sole stitches, then knit 10 stitches from the instep. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: purl 22 stitches. Turn, and cast on 2 stitches. [24 sts]

Complete the big, second, third, fourth, and little toes, as given for the right leg.

Making up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly under a damp cloth with
a warm iron.
Sew seams down back of leg, and on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).
Sew in all ends.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

3 x 25g balls of 4 ply yarn in main shade (A) and 1 ball in each of 4 contrast colours (B, C, D, and E).

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
Stitch holders.

Tension

30 sts x 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit and "average" adult foot: 9/9½ inches (23/24cm). Length from top of heel: 13½ inches (34½ cm).

Abbreviations

sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a superwash 4ply. These days there is a huge choice of wool for socks, but I would recommend some nylon content.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The bag can be made in either of 2 sizes. Both designs are worked from the same instructions and the figures in brackets [ ] refer to the smaller bag where applicable.
[Editor's note: So the size difference is just the difference in tension from reducing the thread thickness and size of hook.]

Base - first section:

Using 1¾mm [1¼mm] hook make 5 chain and join with a ss to the first ch to form ring.
1st round: 3ch, (counts as first treble), 13tr into circle. Join with a slip stitch into 3rd of first 3ch. {14tr}
2nd round: ss into space before next tr, 3ch, (counts as first treble), 1tr into same place as ss, * 2tr into next stitch, repeat from * to end.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
3rd round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as ss (called increase 1) * 1tr into each of the next 3 sps, 2tr into next sp (called increase 1), repeat from * omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss into 3rd of 3ch.
4th - 6th rounds: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1tr into each sp to within next increase, 2tr into next increase, repeat from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
7th round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1tr into each of next 3 sps, increase in next sp, rep from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss into 3rd of first 3ch.
8th - 9th rounds: As 4th.
10th round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1tr into each of next 13 sps, increase over next increase, repeat from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss to 3rd of 3ch. Fasten off.

Base - second section:

Using 1¾mm [1¼mm] hook, rejoin yarn through elastic band, 3ch to form first tr, work 48 tr over band.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
2nd round: ss into sp before next tr, 3ch, 1tr into same place as last ss, * 1 tr into each of next 6 sps, increase in next sp, repeat from * to end, omitting the increase at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss into 3rd of 3ch.
3rd - 6th rounds: As 7th - 10th rounds of the first section.
Do not fasten off.

Main section

1st round: Place both sections together and join by working through both sections at the same time, 1dc into sp before next tr, * 1dc into each of next 2 sps, 9ch, 1dc into each of next 4 sps, 9ch, 1dc into next sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 9ch and 1dc at the end of the last repeat, 3ch, 1trtr into first dc.
2nd round: 3ch, 2tr into the loop just made, * 7ch, 3tr into next loop, repeat from * to end, ending with 3ch, 1dtr into 3rd of first 3ch.
Repeat the last round 28 times more.

Top band

1st round: 4dc into loop just made, * 4ch, 4dc into next loop, repeat from * ending with 4ch, ss into first dc.
2nd round: 3ch, 1tr into each of the next 3dc, * 4tr into next sp, 1tr into each of next 4dc, repeat from * to end, omitting 4tr at the end of the last repeat.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
3rd round: 3ch, 1tr into each tr.
Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch.
4th round: As 3rd.
5th round: 1dc into same place as ss, 1dc into each tr.
Join with a ss to first dc.
Fasten off.

Handle (make 2)

Using 1¾mm [1¼mm] hook, make 9ch.
1st row: Into 2nd ch from hook work 1dc, 1dc into each ch to end.
Turn.
2nd row: 3ch (counts as first tr), miss first dc, 1tr into each dc to end.
Turn.
3rd row: 1ch, 1dc into each tr to end.
Turn.
Repeat the last 2 rows 33 times more.
Do not turn at end of last row.
Work 1 row dc all round handle.
Join with a ss to first dc.

To make up

Damp and pin out to size.
Leave to dry.
Sew handles to top band on WS.

Materials

Large bag: 4 x 20g balls No 10 crochet cotton.
A 1¾ mm crochet hook.

Small bag: 2 x 25g balls No 20 crochet cotton.
A 1¼ mm crochet hook.

Elastic band or shirring elastic in a circle.

Tension

Large bag: 8sts and 4 rows to 1 inch over trebles worked on 1¾ mm crochet hook.

Small bag: 11sts and 5 rows to 1 inch over trebles worked on 1¼ mm crochet hook.

Size matters

Large bag: will carry 15lb (7 kilo)

Small bag: will carry 6½lb (3 kilo)

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
dtr: double treble
trtr: triple treble
ss: slip stitch
sp: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

Nos 10 and 20 crochet cotton are fairly standard and easy to obtain.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Basic instructions for 4 cushions as illustrated.
[Editor's note: The patchwork square will give you the most practice with the various stitches, and the plain square is the simplest (but less interesting!).]

Chevron cushion

Using B, make 68 chain.

Foundation row: using B, 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch, (decrease 2, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch) 3 times, decrease 2, 1 tr in each of next 6 ch, 2 tr in last ch. [65 sts - 3 ch at start of row counts as 1 stitch]

Joining in colours as required, work in pattern as follows:

1st row: using B, 3 ch, 1 tr in first stitch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 stitches, (decrease 2, 1 tr in each of the next 6 stitches, 3 tr in the next stitch, 1 tr in each of next 6 stitches) 3 times, decrease 2, 1 tr in each of the next 6 stitches, 2 tr in top of 3 ch
2nd and 3rd rows: in G as 1st row.
4th and 5th rows: in Y as 1st row.
6th row: in B as 1st row.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Repeat them 8 times more, then the 1st - 5th rows again.
Fasten off.

Making up the chevron cushion

Join starting and finishing edges using a flat seam.
Join 1 side edge. Slip in pad, and join remaining side.

Patchwork cushion

Make 2 of each of the following squares:

First Square (wide stripes):

Using B, make 33 chain.
Foundation row: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each remaining chain. [31 sts]
Next row: 3 ch, miss first stitch, 1 tr in each remaining stitch.

Continue repeating last row, working 1 row more in B, then 3 rows G, 3 rows Y, 3 rows B, 3 rows G, 3 rows Y: 18 rows in all.
Fasten off.

Second Square (mitred corner):

Work 18 rows as for first square, but working 1 row B, 1 row G, 1 row Y.

Third Square (wide stripes):

Using Y, make 4 chain.
Foundation row: Using Y, (1 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr), all 4th ch from hook.

1st row: Using Y, 3 ch, (3 tr, 1 ch 3 tr) all chain space, 1 tr in top of 3 starting chain. [3 ch counts as 1 stitch, 3 tr forms a group]

2nd row: Using G, 3 ch, 1 tr in space between first stitch and next group, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 2 tr in space between last group and 3 ch.
[2 groups with ch space at centre and half a group at each end.]

3rd row: Using G, 3 ch, 1 group in space between half group and next group, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in space between group and half group, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.
[4 groups with 3 ch and tr at each end.]

4th row: Using B, 3 ch, 1 tr in space between first stitch and group, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, 2 tr in space between last group and 3 ch.
[4 groups half a group at each end.]

5th row: Using B, 3 ch, 1 group in space between half group and group, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, 1 group in space between group and half group, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.
[6 groups.]

6th row: Using Y, 3 ch, 1 tr in space between first stitch and group, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, 2 tr in space between last group and 3 ch.

7th row: Using Y, 3 ch, 1 group in space between half group and group, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, (1 group, 1 ch, 1 group) in chain space, 1 group in each space between 2 groups, 1 group in space between last group and half group, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.

8th and 9th rows: Using G, as 6th and 7th rows.
10th and 11th rows: Using B, as 6th and 7th rows.
12th - 17th rows: as 6th - 11th rows. [18 groups]

Fasten off.

Fourth Square (squared circle):

** worked in rounds as follows:
Foundation: Using Y, make 4 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.

1st round: Using Y, 4 ch, (3 tr, 1 ch) 3 times into the ring, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain.

2nd round: Using G, slip stitch into first ch space (formed by top of starting chain of previous round), then 4 ch, 3 tr into that same ch space, (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch space) 3 times, 2 tr in first chain space again, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain.
[3 tr form a group]

3rd round: Using B, slip stitch into first ch space, then 4 ch, 1 group into that same ch space, (1 group in next space between 2 groups, 1 group, 1 ch , 1 group in next ch space) 3 times, 1 group in next space between 2 groups, 2 tr in first ch space, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain.

4th round: Using Y, slip stitch into first ch space, then 4 ch, 1 group into that same ch space, * 1 group in each space between 2 groups,1 group, 1 ch, 1 group in ch space; repeat from * but ending with 2 tr in first ch space, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd of the 4 starting chain, as on previous rounds.

5th round: Using G, work as 4th round.
6th round: Using B, work as 4th round.
**
7th - 9th rounds: work as 4th - 6th rounds.

Making up the patchwork cushion

Using a flat seam piece together the squares, to make two large squares each made up of 4 smaller squares, for the front and back of the cushion (see photograph).

Join 3 sides, slip in pad, and join remaining side.

Block cushion

The fourth square of the patchwork cushion is a squared-off circle - a form of the traditional "granny" square. The block cushion is a giant version of this square.
Work as for the fourth square of the patchwork cushion above from ** to **. Then repeat the 4th - 6th rounds 4 times more, then the 4th and 5th rounds once again.
Fasten off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Making up the block cushion

Join 3 sides, slip in pad, and join remaining side.

Plain cushion

Using a single colour throughout, make 62 chain.

Foundation row: 1 tr in 4th chain from hook, 1 tr in each remaining chain. [60 sts - 3 ch at start of row counts as 1 st]

Next row: 3 ch, miss first stitch, 1 tr in each remaining stitch.

Repeat the last row until cushion measures 16 inches (or to make the size you require).
Fasten off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Making up the plain cushion

Join 3 sides, slip in pad, and join remaining side.

Materials

Standard double knitting yarn in colours of your choice. As in photo, they are labeled B (blue), Y (yellow), and G (green).

A 5mm (UK 6) crochet hook.

Chevron cushion:
2 (50g) balls in each of 3 colours.

Patchwork cushion:
2 (50g) balls in each of 3 colours.

Block cushion:
2 (50g) balls in each of 2 colours.

Plain cushion:
4(50g) balls.

Tension

14sts x 8½ rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size Matters

Approximate size: 16 x 16 inches
(41 x 41cm)

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
tr: treble crochet
sp: space
sl: slip stitch
gr: group
decrease 2: (yarn round hook, draw loop through next stitch, draw loop through 2 loops on hook) repeat 3 times, draw loop through all 4 loops on hook
dc: double crochet
dc: double crochet
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The scarf is worked on 4 needles in the round to make a tube, which is then flattened; the result is a flat scarf with two layers of knitted fabric, and means you don't have to worry about seeing the "wrong side" of the knitting. This is a standard way to make - especially commercial - scarves. Although often seen made in the round, both the hat and the gloves are worked flat on two needles, with a seam making them into the required round shape. It would be simple enough to adapt this pattern and make the hat in the round, especially as you have the method given for the scarf. If this is your first attempt at gloves, however, making them flat may be a good way to start.

Scarf

Using the set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or the circular needle - cast on 112 sts in Main Shade (A).
Work in rounds of stocking stitch (every round knit).

Pattern as follows:

**
1st and 2nd rounds: using B knit.
3rd and 4th rounds: using A knit.
5th and 6th rounds: using C knit.
7th and 8th rounds: using D knit.
9th and 10th rounds: using E knit.
11th - 23rd rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 1.
24th - 33rd rounds: repeat rows 1-10.
**
34th - 46th rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 2.

These 46 rounds form the pattern.
Repeat these rounds 10 times more, then the 1st to the 33rd rounds again.

Cast off using A.

To make up the Scarf

Darn in all ends on the wrong side.
Press gently under a damp cloth using a warm iron.
Turn the scarf right side out.
Cut yarn A into 20½ cm (8 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe through both thicknesses of both short ends at 1½ cm (½ inch) intervals.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a knitted tube, and you are now flattening it (to make the scarf double thickness); you then attach the fringe to each straight end, through both edges - which also serves to close the ends of the tube instead of sewing them together (but you might want to sew them anyway).]
Trim the fringe.

Hat

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on loosely 144 stitches. Work 20 rows K1/P1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [145 sts]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles. Continue in stocking stitch with the same pattern as given for the scarf but knitting back and forth in rows, not in the round. Work from ** to **, with every alternate row being purl. Then continue, repeating rows 1 - 10 only throughout.

Continue in pattern until work measures 18cm (7 inches) from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape the crown

Decrease for the crown, keeping the continuity of the striped pattern:
1st decrease row: k5, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k9) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k5. [121 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
2nd decrease row: k4, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k7) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k4. [97 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
3rd decrease row: k3, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k5) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k3. [73 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
4th decrease row: k2, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k3) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k2. [49 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
5th decrease row: (k2tog, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog) 7 times. [21 sts]
Purl one row.
Next row: (sl1, k2tog, psso) 7 times.
Break off yarn, and thread through remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Press as given for the scarf.
Join the centre back seam, taking care to reverse the seam on brim (which folds back).
Fold the brim in half to the right side.

Gloves

Note: When working the gloves, use separate balls of yarn for the palm and thumb, twisting the yarns at the back of the work when changing colours.

Right hand glove

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 56 stitches.
Work 26 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 11 (3 mm) needles, and beginning with a knit row work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Start thumb shaping:

1st row: using first ball of B, k28; using A, increase one stitch in each of the next 2 stitches, k1; using a 2nd ball of B, k25.
2nd row: using B, p25; using A, p5; using B, p28.
3rd row: using A, knit to end.
4th row: using A, purl to end.
5th row: using C, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k2, increase in the next stitch, k1; using C, K25.
6th row: using C, p25; using A, p7; using C, p28.
7th row: using D, k28; using A, k7; using D, k25.
8th row: using D, p25; using A, p7; using D, p28.
9th row: using E, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k4, increase in the next stitch, k1; using E, k25.
10th row: using E, p25; using A, p9; using E; p27, increase in the last stitch. [63 sts including 9 thumb sts]

Continue in pattern as given for chart, increasing the thumb stitches as before on the 3rd and then every foil 4th row until the 24th row has been completed, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.

Thumb:

Next row: using B, k28; using A, k16 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches. [20 sts]
***
Beginning with a knit row, work 18 rows in stocking stitch.

[Editor's note: For this method you keep all the stitches on the needles as you work the thumb and each finger separately. At this point for the thumb, you keep 28 stitches unworked on the right hand needle, and 25 stitches unworked on the left hand needle, while you work on the centre 16 stitches (which you have increased to 20 by casting on 2 extra stitches on each side. You knit the thumb flat, back and forth up to the tip, then you fasten off and sew it up into the thumb shape.]

Shape top:
Next row: (k2tog, k2) 5 times.
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 7 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
Join seam.

With right side of work facing and using B, knit up 4 stitches from the base of the thumb, knit to end. [57 sts]
[Editor's note: With right side facing, you have 28 stitches already on the right hand needle; you rejoin the yarn at the centre where the thumb is, and start by picking up the 4 stitches that you cast on, which are now wrapped round to meet at the base of the thumb. You then knit the 25 stitches on the left hand needle. Don't worry if you end up with small holes showing at the base of the thumb, (or, later, the fingers) as you can pull them in later when you sew in the ends from the join.]
Beginning with a purl row work one row in B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows D, 2 rows E and 4 rows A, ending with a purl row.
Continue in A only.

Divide for fingers:

1st finger
Next row: k36, turn and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows in stocking stitch on these 18 stitches.

Shape top:
**
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 4 times, k2. [14 sts]
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2 tog) 7 times.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
**
Join seam.

2nd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 1st finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 28 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete to match first finger, working from ** to **.
Join seam.

3rd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 2nd finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Complete to match 2nd finger.
Join seam.

4th finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 3rd finger, k6.
Beginning with a purl row, continue in stocking stitch across all remaining stitches for 19 rows.

Shape top
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 5 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
***

Left hand glove

Work as given for right hand glove, reversing the pattern and the position of thumb as follows:

1st row: using 1st ball of B, k25; using A, increase one stitch in each of
the next 2 stitches, k1; using 2nd ball of B, k28.

Continue as given for right hand glove until 24th row of pattern has been completed.

Thumb

Next row: using B, k24; using A, k16, turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18, turn and cast on 2 stitches.

Complete as given for right hand glove working from *** to ***.

To make up

Press as given for scarf.
Join side seam and 4th finger seam.

Materials

25g balls of 4 ply (fingering) yarn:

Scarf: 4 balls in main shade A
5 balls in contrast B
4 balls in contrast C
2 balls in contrast D
2 balls in contrast E

One set of 4 3¼mm (UK 10) double pointed needles (dpn), or a circular needle.

Hat and gloves:
3 balls in main shade A
1 ball in each of the contrast colours B, C, D, and E.

One pair of 3mm (UK 11), and one pair of 2¾mm (UK 12) needles

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on 3¼ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 20½ cm (8 inches) wide, by 183cm (72 inches) long, excluding the fringe
Hat: to fit an average adult head.
Gloves: to fit an average adult hand.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply superwash wool; about 92 yards (84 m) per 25g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - larger sizes given in brackets up to a 40 inch chest. The design is intended for women or men (albeit men of presumably modest proportions).

Back

With No 11 needles, and main shade (M) cast on 108 (118 : 126) stitches, and work 5 inches in k2/p2 rib, beginning the second row "p2" for second and third sizes, and increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row for all sizes.
[109 (119 : 127) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and work Fair-Isle from Chart thus:

For 1st and 3rd sizes, repeat the 18 stitches between the red lines to the last the last stitch then work the 1st stitch beyond the line.

For 2nd size, work 5 stitches before the red line, then repeat the 18
stitches between the red lines to the last 6 stitches, then work 6 stitches beyond the red line.

Continue until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves, or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the sleeveless slipover, ending with a
wrong-side row.

Armholes shaping:

Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 77 (85 : 91) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and then 5 (7 : 9) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off 37 (41 : 43) stitches.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 11 (11¾ : 12) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 12 (12¾ : 13½) inches for the slipover.

Front shaping:
Next row: pattern 54 (59 : 63) stitches; turn.

Continue on these stitches only.

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and ever following 4th row until work measures 12 (13 : 14) inches for the sweater with sleeves or 13 (14 : 15) inches for the slipover, ending at the side edge.

Armholes shaping:
Still decreasing at the centre front edge on every 4th row as before, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 5 (6 : 7) alternate rows.

Continue with centre front edge shaping until until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 (22½ : 24) inches, ending at the side edge.

Shoulder shaping:

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. Work 1 row. Cast off 5 (7 : 9) stitches and break yarn.

With right side facing, slip the centre front stitch on to a safety pin.
Join yarn to inner edge of the the remaining stitches and complete the other side of the front to match, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 56 (66 : 74) stitches and work 3½ inches in k2/p2 rib, as for the Back,and decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the last row for all sizes.
[55 (65 : 73) sts]

Change to No 9 needles and working from the Chart as for the Back, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 10th row until there are 75 (83 : 89),stitches.
Continue straight until work measures 17 (17½ : 18) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

To shape the top cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 43 (49 : 53) stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 (8 : 10) rows.
Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Neckband:

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches down left side of neck, increase in the stitch from the safety pin, pick up and knit 64 (68 : 72) stitches up right side of neck, and then knit 36 (40 : 44) stitches from the Back neck.

1st row wrong side facing): * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.

Decreasing 1 stitch each side of the centre front 2 stitches on every row, rib 9 more rows as set.
Cast off ribwise.

Join left shoulder and neckband seam.

Armbands for Slipover:

With right side facing, using No 11 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 118 (130 : 142) stitches round each armhole.
Work 9 rows in k2, p2 rib beginning the second row "p2".

Cast off ribwise.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Sweater with sleeves: Set in sleeves. Join side and sleeve seams.
Slipover: Join side and armband seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn in 25g balls:
Sweater:
9 (11 : 12) main colour (charcoal);
7 (7 : 8) in white;
5 balls in light grey for all sizes.
Slipover:
7 (8 : 11) main colour (white);
5 in contrast charcoal all sizes;
3 (3 : 4) in contrast yellow.

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 9 needles

Size matters

To fit chest 34 (37 : 40) inches; length from top of shoulders: 21 (22½ : 24) inches; sleeve seam: 17 (17½ : 18) inches.

Abbreviations

increase: increase 1 stitch by knitting twice into the next stitch.

decrease: decrease 1 stitch by knitting two stitches together.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Robin Vogue DK which was 90% wool. It appeared as both 25g and 1 oz balls depending on the era, and may have been pure wool at one time.

Some information indicates a yardage of 112m for 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Outfit includes coat and beret in double knitting wool; dress in 3 ply; and vest, pants and socks in 3 ply.

Coat - back

Cast on 48 stitches work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: purl (this marks the hem- line).

Continue in stocking stitch beginning with a purl row, and decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row until 38 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 5½ inches from hemline.

Raglan Shaping: Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 16 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Coat - right front

Cast on 28 stitches. Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: purl (this marks the hem- line).
Next Row: p26, k2.
Next Row: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows throughout, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the 4th row and every following 6th row until 23 stitches remain, at the same time, when work measures 2 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row at the bordered edge, work buttonhole as follows:

Next Row: k2, cast off 2, knit to end.
Next Row: purl to the last 2 stitches, cast on 2, k2.

Make 2 more buttonholes at the front edge, 1½ inches apart.
Work until front measures 5½ inches from hemline, ending with a knit row.

Raglan Shaping: Making 4th buttonhole 1½ inches from 3rd, cast off 2 stitches at beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning with of every alternate row until 16 stitches remain, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 6 stitches, knit to end.
Continue raglan shaping and decrease 1 stitch at neck edge on the next 4 rows. Continue raglan shaping only until 1 stitch remains. Fasten off.

Coat - left front

As right front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

Coat - sleeves

Cast on 26 stitches and knit 4 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the first row, until work measures 3 inches.
Shape top as you did for the back raglan until 6 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Coat - collar

Join raglan seams.
Pick up and knit 42 stitches around neck edge, omitting borders.
Knit 4 rows.
Cast off.

Coat - mock pockets

Cast on 10 stitches and knit 2 rows.
Cast Off.

Coat - making up

Press work.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn up hem and catch-stitch on wrong side.
Sew on pockets, 4 ins. from lower edge.
Sew on 4 buttons.

Beret

Cast on 68 stitches and knit 4 rows.

Next Row: (k3, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row.
Next Row: (k4, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Work 6 rows stocking stitch.
Next Row: (p33, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Next Row: (k13, k2tog), repeat to end.
Next Row and every alternate row: purl.
Next Row: (k12, k2tog) repeat to end.
Continue to decrease in this way on every alternate row until 28 stitches remain.
Next Row: (k2tog), repeat to end.

Beret - making up

Thread wool through remaining stitches and secure.
Press work.
Join back seam.
Sew button to centre top.

Dress - back

Cast on 49 stitches and work 6 rows in moss stitch.
Work 6 rows stocking stitch, 2 rows moss stitch
These 8 rows form the pattern.
Repeat the pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 6th row until 39 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 5½ ins.

Sleeve Shaping. Cast on 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then continue until work measures 8 ins.
Cast off.

Dress - right front

Cast on 27 stitches.
Work 4 rows moss stitch.
Next Row: Pattern 2, wfd, k2tog, pattern to end.
Next Row: Moss stitch.
Continue in pattern as for back, but working 5 stitches at front edge in moss stitch for front border, and working a buttonhole as before on the 1st row of each moss stitch stripe.
At the same time, when 8 rows of pattern have been worked, decrease 1 stitch at the side edge on the next and every following 6th row until 22 stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 5½ inches, ending at side edge.

Sleeve Shaping.
Cast on 9 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Continue until work measures 7 inches, ending at front edge.

Neck Shaping.
Next Row: Moss stitch 5, and slip these 5 stitches on to a safety pin, cast off 4 stitches, pattern to end.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
Pattern 2 rows.
Cast off.

Dress - left front

As right front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

Dress - neckband

Join shoulder seams.
Slip border stitches from safety pin on to a needle, pick up and knit 39 stitches around neck, pattern 5 border stitches from other safety pin.
Work 4 rows moss stitch, making 10th buttonhole on the 2nd row.
Cast off.

Dress - sleeve border

Pick up and k. 33 stitches along sleeve edge.
Work 3 rows moss stitch.
Cast off.

Dress - making up

Press work.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Sew on buttons.

Vest - back and front alike

With No 10 needles cast on 36 stitches.
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib.

Armhole Shaping.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Pattern 3 rows

Neck Shaping.
Next Row: Rib 6, cast off 14 stitches, pattern to end.
Work 12 rows.
Cast off.
Complete Other side to match.

Vest - making up

Join side and shoulder seams.
With crochet hook join wool to neck edge:
(3 chain, miss ¼ inch, 1dc in edge) all around neck.
Fasten off.

Pants - back and front alike

With No 10 needles cast on 34 stitches and knit 2 rows.
Next Row: (k2, wfd, k2tog); repeat to last 2 stitches, k2.
Knit 2 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 3 inches.

Leg Shaping.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Work 3 rows straight.
Cast Off.

Pants - making up

Press work.
Join crotch and side seams.
Thread elastic through holes at waist and secure.
With crochet hook work border as for neck of vest around leg openings.

Socks

With No 11 needles, cast on 28 stitches

1st row: increase in first stitch, k12, (increase in next stitch) twice, k12, increase in last stitch.
2nd and alternate rows: purl.
3rd row: increase, k14, (increase in next stitch) twice, k14, increase.
5th row: increase, k16, (increase in next stitch) twice, k16, increase.
7th row: increase, k18, (increase in next stitch) twice, k18, increase.
8th row: purl.
Next row: k26, k2tog, turn.
Next row: p9, p2tog, turn.
Next row: k9, k2tog , turn.
Continue decrease 1 stitch each side of centre stitches until 36 stitches remain altogether.
Work 2 inches in stocking stitch over all stitches.
Work 6 rows k2, p2, rib.
Cast off ribwise.

Socks - making up

Press work.
Join back and foot seam.

Materials

Coat and Beret: 3ozs Double Knitting
5 buttons
No 9 (3¾mm) knitting needles

Dress: 1oz 3 ply
10 buttons
No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles

Vest, Pants and Socks: 2ozs 3 ply
12 inches of elastic
No 10 (3¼mm) and No 11 (3mm) knitting needles
No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.
[This would be the DK yarn tension]

Size matters

Designed to fit a 20-inch doll.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US this stitch is referred to as single crochet.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together
p2tog: purl 2 sts together
moss stitch: repeat k1, p1 on an odd number of stitches so that a previous row's knit stitch is purled and vice versa. (Also known as seed stitch).
wfd: wool forward to making an extra stitch by passing the yarn over the needle when you knit the following stitch. [This also creates an eyelet hole which can be for for decoration or a small buttonhole]

A Word on the Wool.

The pattern is sized for a 20 inch doll which may suit "Our Generation", "American Girl" or vintage Pedigree dolls.

3 ply yarn can be easily found as baby wool in white which would be fine for the vest/pants/socks but for the dress you may be challenged to find more interesting colours.

1 ounce (oz) is approximately 28g.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
Work from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 106 [114, 120, 128] stitches and work in K1/P1 for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 1 [5, 4, 4] * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 1 [5, 4, 4] stitches, m1, rib 1 [5, 4, 4].
(133 [141, 149, 159] sts).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work in pattern from the chart, joining in and breaking off colours as required, working the first 4 [1, 5, 3] and last 3 [0, 4, 2] stitches on knit rows, and the first 3 [0, 4, 2], and the last 4 [1, 5, 3] stitches on purl row as indicated, and working the 14 stitch repeat pattern 9 [10, 19, 11] times across in between.

Continue until back measures 14½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.

**

Shape Armholes:
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, then at each end of every alternate row until 95 [99, 105, 109] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until back measures 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 9 [8, 10, 9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
(45 [47, 49, 51] sts).

Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back up to **.

Shape Armholes and Neck:

Next row: keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches, and pattern until 60 [64, 68, 73] stitches are on the right hand needle; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on first set of stitches only.
Work one row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, and then on every alternate row, at the same time, decrease 1 stitches at the neck edge on the next row, and every alternate row until 38 [39, 41, 42] stitches remain.

Then continue to decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every alternate row until 32 [34, 37, 39] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every following 3rd row until 25 [26, 28, 29] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until front matches back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
(9 [8, 10, 9] sts).

Work one row, and then cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 66 [70, 74, 79], and pattern to end.

Work to match the first side, reversing the shaping.

Making Up

Press lightly using a cool iron and dry cloth - or as instructed on the ball band - omitting the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches down left neck, knit stitch from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread), pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches up right neck, then knit 45 [47, 49, 51] stitches from Back, decreasing 3 stitches evenly.
(187 [197, 203, 213] sts).

1st row wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.

2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl, k1; ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Cast off evenly in rib, decreasing at marked stitch as before.
Join left shoulder and neckband.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 118 [124, 132, 138], stitches round each armhole.

Work in k1/p1 rib for 9 rows.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4 ply in each of the three colours (all sizes).

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 32 rows to 4 ins (10cm) measured over pattern using 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches;
length: 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

p2togtbl: purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Clansman 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Filet Crochet

The crochet stitches used in filet crochet are very simple, consisting of "tall" stitches which in this patter are trebles, and chain stitches combined together to create a mesh of "spaces"; some of these spaces are filled in with "blocks" of the tall stitches, hence the pattern can be represented with a chart, that shows you how the spaces and blocks are arranged. You will see how this works as I explain below.

In these examples the "tall" stitches are shown as trebles.

Spaces (sp)

Spaces are made by making 2 chain, missing 2 (or the same as the number of chain) stitches, then "tall" stitch into the next stitch.
The picture shows making 2 chain, missing 2 stitches and making the tall stitches trebles. You are left with a square hole which is the "space".

Blocks (blk)

To make a block you fill in the space with tall stitches.
In our example you put 2 stitches into what would have been the space; this replaces the chains and missed stitches and creates a "block" of 4 tall stitches: two that would have been part of the mesh of spaces and 2 that fill in the space.

The picture shows making 1 treble into each of the next 4 stitches (starting 3 chain counts as 1 treble), 2 chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 treble into the next stitch, 1 treble into the next 3 stitches (makes a block of 4).

As you continue in a pattern, you should ensure that your basic mesh is preserved, so that the trebles that make the framework of the spaces all sit evenly above one another, not offset like brickwork (unless of course that is part of the pattern!). In general the pattern is created by the blocks, rather like giant pixels making an overall picture.
This method of working is in fact very simple; you just need patience.

Instructions

The vertical (side) edging is worked first, from the bottom, starting with shaping the mitred corner as shown in the chart; then work on upwards to the required length, after which you fasten off. Next, you pick up at the mitred corner at the bottom of the side panel and work short rows across the mitre until al the stitches are incorporated, and you are working the horizontal (bottom) panel at 90 degrees to the side edging - also as shown in the chart. Work to the require width of your curtain, then fasten off.

Vertical Side Panel

Begin at lower outer corner, make 11 chain, work 1 tr in 8th chain from hook, 1 tr in 3 chain, turn.

1st row (right side): 3 chain, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in 3 tr, 2 chain, 1 tr in 3rd chain, turn.

2nd row: 10 chain, 1 tr in 8th chain from hook; (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in 2 tr, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.

3rd row: 3 chain, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in 3 tr; (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr), twice, 2 chain, 1 tr in 3rd chain.

Working bracketed instructions twice more on every repeat, repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times more.

Begin filet pattern thus:

10th row: 10 chain, 1 tr in 8th chain from hook, 2 chain, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in chain space, 1 tr in next tr, (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr) 8 times, 1 tr in 2 tr, 1 tr in top of 3 chain.

11th row:—3 chain, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in 3 tr, (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr) 8 times, 1 tr in next 2 tr, (l tr in next tr, 2 chain) twice, 1 tr in 3rd chain.

12th row: 8 chain, 1 tr in 4th chain from hook, 1 tr in next 2 chain, (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 tr in chain space, 1 tr in next 4 tr, (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr) 8 times, 1 tr in 2 tr, 1 tr in 3rd chain.

Beginning with 13th row, continue working from chart (each square marked in blue worked by 2 tr in 2-chain space or previous trs as given on 10th, 11th and 12th rows) until 40th row is worked, and the mitre shaping is complete.
Continue working from chart until 73rd row is completed.
* Working chart rows in reverse by reading even rows from left to right and odd rows from right to left, work from 74th to 123rd row. Repeat from * until shorter edge of border is length required to fit your curtain.
Fasten off.

Horizontal Lower Panel

With wrong side of vertical panel facing, join cotton to outer corner.
Make 8 chain, 1 tr in 4th chain from hook, 1 tr in 4 chain, slip stitch in base of 4th tr of foundation of vertical panel; slip stitch along 2 chain of foundation, turn.
[Editor's note: You are creating the mitred corner shaping, and joining to the side panel at the same time.]

1st row (right side): 2 chain, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in 3 tr, 1 tr in top of 3 chain, turn.
2nd row: 3 chain, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in 3 tr, * 2 chain, 1 tr in top of slip stitch, 2 chain, 1 tr in same chain as 1 tr of vertical panel, 2 chain, slip stitch in base of tr, slip stitch along 2 chain, turn *.
3rd row: (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in 2 tr, 1 tr in top of 3 chain, turn.
4th row: chain, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in 3 tr, (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr), twice, repeat from * to * of 2nd row.

Working bracketed instructions twice more on every repeat, repeat 3rd and 4th rows 4 times, then repeat 3rd row again.

14th row: 3 chain, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in 3 tr, (2 chain, 1 tr in next tr) 12 times, 2 chain, 1 tr in top of slip stitch, 2 tr in chain space, 1 tr in same chain as tr, 2 tr around bar of tr, slip stitch in base of tr, turn.

Turn chart sideways and continue working from chart, beginning with 15th row, still shaping corner as set until 41st row is completed.

42nd row: Pattern to 1 tr in top of slip stitch, 3 tr in end tr of 40th row of side panel, turn.

Continue working from chart until 94th row is completed.
Repeat 67th to 94th rows until shorter inner edge is length required less 19 cm or 7½, inches.
Then work from 95th to 125th to finish off.
Fasten off.

Making Up:

Pin out work a section at a time and block.
Sew around your curtain or fabric.

Materials

One ball of Twilleys Twenty will make approximately 26½cm or 10½ inches of border.
[Editor's note:This is a No 20 cotton which came in 20g balls approximately 100m in length.]

2mm crochet hook.

Ready-made curtains, or a length of voile or appropriate fabric to make your own.

Tension

8 holes (spaces) to 2 inches or 5cm.

Size matters

Length as required.
Width: 10½ inches.
[Editor's note:Make sure you check this out if you decide to change the thread and hook sizes.]

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
sp: space - work 2 ch, miss 2 sts, work 1 tr into next st.
tr: treble.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The pattern panel for the dress is worked over 5 stitches as follows:

1st row: yfwd, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, yfwd.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k1, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1.
4th row: purl.

Back

**
Using No 7 (4½mm) needles, cast on 135 stitches and knit one row.

Work in Pattern A as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 5 times, k3, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, k3; repeat from * to last 11 stitches; (yfwd, k2togtbl) 5 times, k1.

2nd row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1

3rd row: k2, * (k2tog, yfwd) 5 times, k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 5 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

4th row: as 2nd.

These 4 rows form Pattern A.

Repeat them until back measures 15 inches, ending with 4th pattern row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k1, (k2tog) twice, (yfwd, k2tog) 3 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, sl1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, sl1, k2tog, psso repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k2togtbl, k1. [111 sts]

Continue in Pattern B as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

2nd row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 4 times, k3, *(yfwd. k2togtbl) 3 times, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3; repeat from * to last 9 stitches, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k1.

3rd row: as 1st row.

4th row: k2, * (k2tog. yfwd) 4 times. k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 4 rows form Pattern B.

Repeat them until back measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape as follows:

Next row: k1, (k2tog) twice, (yfwd, k2tog) twice, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, sl1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last 9 stitches , (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k2togtbl, k1. [87 sts]

Continue in Pattern C as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

2nd row: k1, (k2tog , yfwd) 3 times, k3, * (yfwd, k2togtbl) twice, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k3; repeat from * to last 7 stitches; (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k1

3rd row: as 1st row.

4th row: k2, * (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, (yfwd, k2togtbl) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 4 rows form Pattern C.

Repeat them until back measures 22 inches.

Place a marker at each end of last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in Pattern C until back measures 4 inches from markers, ending with right side facing.

Next row: cast off 21, k8 (this includes the stitch on the needle from casting off), slip these 8 stitches on a safety-pin, cast off 29, k8, slip these 8 stitches on a safety-pin, cast off remaining 21 stitches.

Work shoulder strap as follows:
With wrong side facing and No 10 needles, rejoin yarn to 8 stitches on safety-pin and work in stocking-stitch, starting with a p. row, until strap measures 16 inches. Cast off.
Work 2nd strap in the same way.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.

Next row: cast off 44, place a marker in the last of these stitches, cast off remaining stitches.

Join side seams of skirt.

Bodice

With No. 10 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work in rib as follows:

Next row: k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

This row forms rib pattern. Repeat it until strip, when slightly stretched, fits along upper edge of skirt from outer side of shoulder straps to marker at centre front.
Place a marker in "k3." edge of strip.
Rib 4 more rows.
Place a 2nd marker in opposite end.

Now continue in rib until length from 2nd marker matches length from cast-on edge to 1 st marker.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Starting at outer side of shoulder strap, sew first half of bodice strip in position, first marker matching centre marker of front.
Now fold under upper edge of strip, bringing 2nd marker also to centre marker of front, thus twisting the strip, then sew 2nd half of strip in position, ending at outer edge of other strap (thus leaving back edge between straps free).
Sew side edges Of bodice strips to approximately 4 inches of shoulder straps, then sew straps to front. Face straps with ribbon on wrong side
[Editor's Note: The bodice only goes around the front of the dress; it might be easier to see how you are intended to sew it to the straps if you look at the picture of the back of the dress below.]

Cut lining the full width of skirt but 2 inches longer than skirt when lying flat. Allow ½ inches for seams and 1 inch for hem.
Join side seams, then catch top of lining in position all round top of skirt.

Pin hem in position, then try dress on before stitching, to be certain lining is the correct length.

Materials

Dress: 6 x 50g balls of a light weight double knitting. (See"a word on the wool").

Pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1¼ yards (about 1.2m) of 1 inch (2.5cm) wide facing ribbon.

1¾ yards (about 1.6m) of 36 inch (90cm) wide lining material in a matching shade.

Tension

25 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern on No 7 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust 34 - 36 inches. Length (excluding shoulder strap) measured flat is 30 inches. (The dress drops to 32 inches when worn)

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward
sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Kismet which which was 80% acrylic and 20% mohair; it was a fairly light weight yarn, and it was the fluffiness that caused it to knit to something like a DK equivalent (on the right needles).

This pattern emphasises the light weight nature of the yarn with an open-work pattern knitted on large needles.

The other thing to note is that it had an exceptional yardage - about 225m to 50g which is about double that of a normal DK, so you need to take all that into account when considering substituting.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.
[Editor's Note: The cardigan is made up of a series of narrow crochet strips which are then sewn together lengthways; the colours in the strips are offset from one another to make the chevron pattern, and they are made shorter to make the armholes and sleeve shaping.]

Main Part

1st Band: With 4mm hook and main shade (A) make 8 chain.
Foundation row: —Miss 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch to end. {7 dc}
1st Row: l ch, 1 dc in each dc.
Repeat 1st row for pattern.
Continue in pattern working 2 row stripes of the 5 contrasts (B, C, D, E, F) and main shade (A) until 40 [42 : 44 : 46] stripes are completed, ending with D [F : B : D] stripe; mark this stripe with contrast thread for centre back.
Beginning with C [E : A : C] stripe work sequence in reverse from F to A for 39 [41 : 43 : 45] more stripes, ending with A stripe.
Fasten off.

2nd Band: Make as the 1st band , but beginning and ending with contrast colour B and with centre back stripe of E [A : C : E].
Join to 1st band.

3rd Band: As 1st, but beginning and ending with contrast colour C and with centre back stripe of F [B : D : F].
Join to 2nd band.

Continue in this way, beginning and ending with next stripe of colour sequence, until the 9th band is complete.

Right Front

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour E and work 16 [17 : 18 : 19] stripes. Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Next Band: Begin with A and work 14 [15 : 16 : 17] stripes. Omit one stripe at each end of the previous band; join.

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour C and work 12 [13 : 14 : 15] stripes. Join as previous band.

Next Band: Begin with contrast colour E and work 11 [12 : 13 : 14] stripes. Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Shape shoulders:

Next Band: With A make 7 [8 : 10 : 11] chain. Work the foundation row and the 1st row as you did in the first band. {6 [7 : 9 : 10] dc}.
Work 2 stripes.
* Next Row: l ch, (insert hook in next dc) twice, yrh and draw through 3 loops - decrease worked - 1 dc in each dc to end.

Continue in stripes, decreasing 1 stitch at eh beginning of every 4th row until 2 dc remain. Work 1 row. Fasten off.
Omit the first stripe of the previous band; join.

Back

Reversing stripes at centre as given for main part continue thus:

Next Band: Beginning and ending B [C : D : E] work 35 [37 : 39 : 41] stripes. Omit 5 stripes of 9th band of main part for armhole; join.

Next Band: Beginning and ending D [E : F : A] work 33 [35 : 37 : 39] stripes. Omit 1 stripe at each end of previous band ; join.

Next Band: Beginning and ending F [A : B : C] work 31 [33 : 35 : 37] stripes. Join on as last band.

Next Band: As last but beginning and ending A [B : C : D]; join.

Shape shoulders:

With B [C : D : E] ** make 3 [3 : 5 : 5] chain. Work the foundation row and the 1st row as you did in the first band. {2 [2 : 4 : 4] dc}.

Next Row: l ch, 2 dc in next dc - increase worked - 1 dc in each dc to end.
Continue in stripe pattern, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every 4th row until there are 6 [7 : 9 : 10] dc,
Work 1 row. **
Work 16 [14 : 16 : 14] stripes, reversing stripes after 8th [7th : 8th : 7th] of these stripes. Complete as right front shoulder from *.
Sew on.

Left Front

As right front to shoulder shaping, reversing stripes and shapings, and missing 5 stripes of last band of main part for armhole.

Shape shoulders:

Beginning D [E : F : A], work as shoulder shaping of back from ** to ** . Work 2 [1 : 2 : 1] stripes. Fasten off. Sew on.

Sleeves

1st Band: beginning with A, work as for 1st band of main part, repeating 6 stripes of A, B, C, D, E and F until there are 22 [22 : 24 : 24] stripes.

2nd Band: beginning with B, work as 1st band.
Sew on.

3rd Band: beginning with B, work 24 [24 : 26 : 26] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end sew on to 2nd band.

4th Band: beginning with C, work as for 3rd band. Sew on.

5th Band: beginning with C, work 26 [26 : 28 : 28] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end, sew on.

6th Band: beginning with D, work as for 5th band. Sew on.

7th Band: beginning with D, work 28 [28 : 30 : 30] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end, sew on.

8th Band: beginning with E, work as 7th band. Sew on.

9th Band: beginning with E, work 30 [30 : 32 : 32] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe at each end, sew on.

10th Band: beginning with F, work as 9th band.

Now shape top:
11th Band: beginning with D, work 24 [24 : 26 : 26] stripes. Omitting 3 stripes at each end of previous band and sew on.

12th Band: beginning with F, work 22 [22 : 24 : 24] stripes. Omitting 1 stripe each end of previous band and sew on.

13th Band: beginning with B, work 20 [20 : 22 : 22] stripes. Sew on as last band.

Making Up

Press work lightly.
Join shoulder and sleeve seams.
Set in Sleeves.

Edging:
Using the 3½mm hook join A to centre back at lower edge.

1st Round: l ch, 1 dc in end of each row or dc around entire outer edge, working 3 dc in the corners; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
2nd Round (make buttonholes): 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to corner; 3 dc in corner dc, 1 dc in 23 dc, (3 ch, miss 2 dc, 1 dc in 10 dc) 4 times, 1 dc in each dc to end, working 3 dc in centre dc of left corner; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
3rd Round: 1 ch, now working in reverse from left to right work 1 dc in each dc and ch; slip stitch to 1st ch at the beginning of the round.
Fasten off.

With main shade A work around sleeve edges to match.
Sew on buttons. Press seams.

Materials

5 [6 : 7 : 8] (25 gram) balls double knitting yarn in the main colour, plus,
4 [5 : 6 : 7] balls in each of 5 contrast colours.
[Editor's Note: Crochet works up quickly but does rather eat up the yarn; this cardigan needs a total of up to 24 x 50g balls of DK. The yarn used in the original was an acrylic with a yardage of approximately 150m or 164yards per 50g.]

4mm and 3½mm crochet hooks.

Tension

Pattern strip is 1¾ inches wide and 18 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inches;
length: 23 [23 : 23½ : 23½] inches;
sleeve: 18 inches all sizes.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Twist the yarns on wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

**
With No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 76 [84, 90] stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 [7, 10] (m1, rib 10) 7 times, m1, rib 3 [7, 10]:
84 [92, 98] sts.

Change to No 11 needles and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking-stitch until back measures 1½ [2, 2] inches, ending with right side facing.

Change to No 10 needles and joining in contrast colour (C) as required, work rows 1-20 inclusive from chart A [B, A]

.

Work the first 0 [1, 1] stitch on knit rows and last 0 [1, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated, repeating the 12 [13, 12] pattern stitches 7 [7, 8] times across - and the last 0 [0, 1] stitch on knit rows, and first 0 [0, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Break C.
[Editor's note: The charts are fairly easy to read but these instructions may make them seem more complicated than they are.
If this helps at all - rather than making it worse:
On the first size using chart A you just repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work with no extra stitches at either end (12 x 7 = 84).
On the third size chart A also, you repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at either end to make up the 98 stitches (12 x 8 = 96 plus 2).
On the second size chart B, you repeat the 13 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at one end to make up the 92 stiches (13 x 7 = 91 plus 1).]

Change to No 11 needles and continue in M and stocking stitch until back measures 4½ [5, 5½]inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 54 [58, 64] stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 48 [52, 56] stitches remain. **

Continue straight until back measures 9 [10, 11] inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4 [5, 6] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Leave the remaining 30 [32, 34] stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for Back from ** to ** .
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape neck as follows:

Knit 18 [19, 20], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 9 [10, 11] stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 12 [14, 16] stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Making Up

Using a cool iron and a damp cloth for Baby Wool, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, start at the top of the left shoulder and work as follows:
Pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches down left side of neck, k12 [14, 16] from centre, pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches up right side, then knit 30 [32, 34] from back :
96 [104, 112] sts.

Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join left shoulder seam, then join neckband with a flat seam

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, pick up and knit 86 [94, 102] stitches round each armhole and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.

Cast off evenly in rib.
Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

Baby 3 ply 25g balls: 2 in main colour and 1 contrast colour (all sizes).

Pair each No 13 (2¼mm), No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 40 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 20 [22, 24] inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 9 [10, 11] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Baby 3ply - a version of which is still available today.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

This is the plain bodice, striped skirt, design in two colours.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (L); work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in L
2nd row: Purl in L
3rd row: Using D: k2, * sl2, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Using D: p2, * sl2, p2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Knit in L
6th row: Purl in L
7th row: Knit in D
8th row: Purl in D
9th row: Using L: sl2, * k2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Using L: sl2, * p2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
11th row: Knit in D
12th row: Purl in D

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until back measures approximately 6½/8/9/10½ inches ending on the 11th pattern row.

Next row: Using D: purl 13/2/0/5 stitches; (p2tog, p0/1/1/1) 31/29/33/31 times; p2tog, purl 13/3/1/6
[58 / 64 / 68 / 74 sts]

Starting with a knit row, continue straight in stocking-stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until back measures 8/9½/11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 42/48/52/58 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 36/40/44/48 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 3/4/4/5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 22/24/26/28 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 10/11/12/13; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 11/12/13/14 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 7/8/9/10 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 3/4/4/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 12/14/16/18 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 12/14/16/18 stitches from the front, pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 up the right side; then knit 22/24/26/28 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
2/2/2/2 balls in the contrast colour

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

L: main shade (light)
D: contrast (dark)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

This is the pinafore with the patterned bodice design in three colours.

Note: When working colour pattern from the chart, strand yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
When changing twist yarns on the wrong side to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left
to right.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Break off colour D

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (M), and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7/8½/9½/11 inches ending with a knit row.

Next row: purl 4/10/10/7 stitches; (p2tog, p2/2/2/3) 20/18/20/18 times; p2tog, purl 4/10/10/7
[69 / 75 / 81 / 87 sts]

Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart until back measures 8/9½/11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Note: Repeat the 6 pattern stitches 11/12/13/14 times across and last 3 stitches on knit rows and first 3 stitches on purl rows as indicated.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 47/53/59/65 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 43/47/51/55 stitches remain.
**

Work straight in pattern until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 27/29/31/33 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 12/13/14/15; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 13/14/15/16 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/9/10/11 stitches remain.
Work straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4/4/5/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 15/17/19/21 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin appropriate colour yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 15/17/19/21 stitches from the front decreasing 2 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 up the right side; then knit 27/29/31/33 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seams and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
1 balls in of the two the contrast colours.
Editor's note: Colour names to conjure with:
Aqua Gem, Gay Turquoise, Blue Slate and Wild Rose....

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

M: main (aqua)
L: light (pink)
D: dark (blue)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Instructions are for 4 sizes.

Back

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 79/83/87/91 stitches and work 7 rows in garter stitch, (ie every row knit).

Change to No 5 (5½mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.

These 8 rows form the pattern for the back.

Work a further 8 rows straight in pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until 71/75/79/83 stitches remain, then on every following 4th row until 67/71/75/79 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 18½ inches (47 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglans as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
2nd row: p3, pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd. [65/69/73/77 sts]

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 23/23/25/25 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Pocket linings (make 2)

Using No 5 needles, cast on 21 stitches and work 23 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle and make another one the same.

Left Front

**Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/37/39/41 stitches and work 7 rows garter-stitch. **

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
These 8 rows form pattern for left front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Continue in pattern, shaping side edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row. [33/35/37/39 sts].
Work 1 row straight.

Place pocket lining as follows:
1st row: knit 6/7/8/9, slip next 21 stitches on to a stitch holder and in place of these, knit across the stitches of one pocket lining, knit 6/7/8/9.
Work 3 rows straight in pattern, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following 6th row, then on every following 4th row until
29/31/33/35 stitches remain.

Keeping continuity of pattern, work straight until front matches back at the side edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape raglan as follows:
1st row: k2, k2togtbl, knit to end.
2nd row: pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: as 2nd.

Now repeat 1st and 2nd rows until 13/13/14/14 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.

Continue decreasing at raglan edge as before on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/8/6/6 stitches remain, then on every following alternate row until 4 stitches remain, all sizes.

Now keep the neck edge straight and work 1 more raglan decrease as before. [3 sts]..
1st row: purl.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl.
1st row: p2, turn; k2tog and fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front from ** to **.
Change to No 5 needles and pattern as follows:

1st and 3rd sizes:
Work 16 rows straight in pattern as for back.

2nd and 4th sizes:
Work pattern thus:
1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: p3, * L1, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, L1, p1.
5th-7th rows: as 1st - 3rd rows.
8th row: p1, * L1, p3; repeat from * to end.
These 8 rows form pattern for right front.
Work a further 8 rows straight.

All sizes: Finish to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'k2tog' when shaping raglan instead of 'k2togtbl'.

Sleeves

Using No 8 needles, cast on 35/35/39/39 stitches and work 7 rows garter stitch.

Change to No 5 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides as follows:
Increase 1 stitch at each end of 7th/5th/3rd/3rd and every following 10th/8th/8th/ 6th row until there are 49/53/47/47 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

3rd and 4th sizes: Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th/8th row until there are 55/59 stitches.

All sizes: Work a few rows straight until sleeve seam measures 16 inches (41 cm), ending with the right side facing.

Shape raglans as for back until 7 stitches remain all sizes.
1st row: in pattern.
1st row: k1, k2togtbl, k. 1, k2tog , k1. [5 sts]
1st row: in pattern.
Leave stitches on a safety pin.

Front Borders

Left: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work a strip in garter stitch to fit up left front to start of neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Sew in position as you go along.
For hooded version: Cast off.
Version without hood: Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Right: With No 8 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work 6 rows garter stitch. Work in loop pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * L1, k1; repeat from * to end.
1st row: knit.
1st row: k2, * L1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
1st row: knit.
These 4 rows form pattern. Finish to correspond with left border, but casting off in pattern for hooded version.

Neck Border for version without hood

Join raglan seams.
With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit 11 from right border, pick up and knit 10 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, 23/23/25/25 from back decreasing 2 stitches evenly, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 10 down left side of neck, knit 11 from left border. [73/73/75/75 sts]

1st row: k11, keeping continuity of loop pattern as for right border work to end.
Keeping 11 stitches of left border in garter stitch, work a further 15 rows straight in loop pattern.
Cast Off in loop pattern and garter stitch.

Hood

Join raglan seams.

With right side facing and No 8 needles, start at the centre of the right border and pick up and knit 5 stitches, pick up and knit 9 stitches up right side of neck, k5 from right sleeve, knit 23/23/25/25 from back, k5 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 9 down left side of neck, then k5 from left border to centre. [61/61/63/63 sts]

Work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

1st row: rib 4/4/1/1, m1, * rib 4, m1; repeat from * last 5/5/2/2 stitches, rib 5/5/2/2. [75/75/79/79 sts]

Change to No 5 needles.
1st row: p12, starting with 4th row, work in loop pattern as for back to last 12 stitches, p12.

Keeping 12 stitches at each end in stocking stitch, continue in loop pattern until work measures 11 inches (28 cm) from start of ribbing, ending with right side facing.

Cast off 24 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight in pattern for a further 3 in. (7 cm) on the remaining 27/27/31/31 stitches, then work a further 3 inches (7 cm) in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Hood Border

With No. 8 needles, cast on 103/103/107/107 stitches, and knit 2 rows, then work 16 rows in loop pattern as for right border, starting with 1st row.
Cast Off in loop pattern.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on wrong side, omitting loop and garter stitch borders and taking care not to spoil the pattern. Join side and sleeve seams.

Pocket Tops: With right side facing and No 8 needles, knit across each set of 21 pocket stitches decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [20 sts].
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Cast off knitwise.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Cut petersham the same length as right border plus 1 inch (2 cm) for turnings.
Mark position for 8 buttonholes on petersham, first to come 1½ in. (4 cm) up from lower edge, 8th 1 inch (2 cm) below top of neck border or below top of ribbing on hooded version, and remainder spaced evenly.
Cut buttonholes in petersham and buttonhole round them.
Pin petersham on wrong side of right border and sew along inner edge and along top and bottom edges, then catch firmly in centre between each buttonhole along outer edge.

Hooded Version: Join sides to top of hood.
Pin loop border on top of hood, cast-on edge to come level with outside edge.
Sew in position all round, sewing short edges level with short edges on front borders.
Both versions: Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

25/26/27/28 x 50g balls of chunky yarn.
Without hood:
20/21/22/23 x 50g balls.

Pair each No 5 (5½mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.

2 stitch-holders.

2 press studs.

2½ inch wide petersham for buttonhole border.

Tension

17 sts and 21 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes to fit bust:
32/34/36/38 inches, (81/86/91/96 cm);
length from top of shoulders, 27/27½/28/28½ inches, 69/70/71/72 cm);
sleeve seam, 16 inches, (41cm) all sizes.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

L1: knit next stitch, winding yarn over needle and first finger of left hand once, then over needle again, then place the 2 loops back on the left needle and knit them together with the stitch through back of loops.

A Word on the Wool:

Original knitted in Patons Doublet.
This is a chunky - stated to be "double double knitting" - so 2 times thicker than DK. Ravelry lists it as 60 yards to 50g which sounds reasonable but I am unable to confirm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The coat is worked in a number of repeated "patterns".

To make 1 pattern:
3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr

Motif Panel Pattern
(Worked over 6½ patterns)

1st row (wrong side facing): 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 4 patterns.
2nd row: 4 patterns, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
3rd row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, (1 tr in next tr, 2 ch) twice, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns.
4th row: 3 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, (1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp) twice, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
5th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns.
6th row: 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 11 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
7th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 11 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
8th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
9th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 8 tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
10th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in each of next 5 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, (1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
11th row: (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 12 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 5 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
12th row: 1 pattern, 1 tr in each of next 9 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr.
13th row: 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr, in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 12 tr, 1 pattern.
14th row: 1 pattern, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 16 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 1 tr in each of next 6 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
15th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 4 times, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 15 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 5 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern.
16th row: 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 5 times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 19 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
17th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) 3 times, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, (1 tr in next tr, 2 ch) twice, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch:, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 9 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 5 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
18th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) twice, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
19th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
20th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, (2 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, (2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr) twice, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
21st row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch, sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
22nd row: 2 ch, 3 tr in next 5 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 13 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
23rd row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 5 tr, 1 tr in each of next 1 0 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
24th row: 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 5 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
25th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
26th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
27th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 tr in next 2 ch sp, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
28th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of next 7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.
29th row: 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in each of next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 patterns.
30th row: 2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, miss 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr.

These 30 rows form the panel pattern.

Back and Fronts
(worked in one piece to armhole)

Foundation row (wrong side facing): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each remaining ch. [385/385/409/409 sts]
Next row: 1 ch, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each remaining stitch. Repeat the last row once more.

Change to No 9 (3½ mm) hook and work as follows:
Foundation row (right side facing): 1 dc in first stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, * 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in next stitch, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch, 5 ch, miss 5 stitches, 1 tr in next stitch; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc in last stitch.
[31½/31½/33½/33½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end].

Place motif panel patterns as follows:
1st row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, work 1/1/2/2 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr * , work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, 1 pattern, repeat from * to * once, work 1st row of motif panel pattern across next 6½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.
2nd row: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * work 2nd row of motif panel pattern, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 1/1/2/2 patterns, work 2nd row of motif panel pattern, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, * work 1 pattern, repeat from * to * once, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch.

Continue working thus until 30 rows of motif panel pattern have been worked.
Next row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 31/31/33/33 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.

1st, 2nd and 4th sizes:
Next row: 1 dc in first st, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 31 /31 /33 patterns, 3 ch, miss 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch

4th size:
Next row: 6 ch, 1 tr in next tr, work 33 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 dtr in first dc of previous row.

All sizes: Keeping continuity of pattern, shape as follows:
lst row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7½/7½/8/8 patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 15½/15½/16½/16½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
2nd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7½/7½/8/8 patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 15½/15½/16½/16½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
3rd row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7/7½/7½ patterns, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr * , pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
4th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7/7½/7½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over next 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
5th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7/7½/7½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
6th-9th rows: in pattern.
10th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7/7½/7½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
11th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 7/7/7½/7½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 14½/14½/15½/15½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
12th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½/6½/7/7 patterns, * 3 ch 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr *, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
13th row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½/6½/7/7 patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
14th row:pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 6½/6½/7/7 patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 13½/13½/14½/14½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
15th-18th rows: in pattern.

Continue decreasing thus until 72/63/72/63 shaping rows have been worked:
15½/17½/17½/19½ patterns plus ¼ pattern at each end. 2nd and 4th sizes:
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 4/4½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern over 8½/9½ patterns, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 4/4½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next stitch, pattern over 8½/9½ patterns, 1 ch, 1 tr in next stitch, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 3½/4 patterns, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in in next tr *, pattern over 7½/8½ patterns, repeat from * to * once, pattern to end.
[15½/17½ patterns, plus ¾ pattern at each end]

Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 3½/4 patterns, (5 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over 7½/8½ patterns, (5 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern over ¼ pattern, then pattern over 3½/4 patterns, (3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern over 7½/8½ patterns, (3 ch, 1 dc in next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr) twice, pattern to end.

These last 2 rows form the pattern.

All sizes: Continue straight in pattern until work measures 39/40/40/41 inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for right front as follows:
Next row: pattern over 1/4 pattern, then pattern over 2¾/3/3/3 patterns, turn.

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes:
Next row: 8 ch, 1 tr in next tr, pattern to end.
Next row: in pattern, ending 3 ch, 1 dc in last ch sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in 3rd ch.

All sizes: Continue in pattern on these patterns for right front until work measures 5/6/6/6 inches from where work was divided, ending with right side facing.
Fasten off.

Shape neck as follows:
With right side facing leave ¼ pattern unworked, then leave next 1¼/1½/1½/1½ patterns unworked, rejoin yarn in next dc/tr/tr/tr and pattern to end. [1½ patterns]. Work a few rows straight until neck measures 2 inches.
Fasten off.