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Archive entry for July 2012

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July 2012

Cooler Trend for Summer II

CoolTrend2c.jpg

For an even cooler trend for summer - which seems all too possible this year in the UK - another early sixties light woollen top with bracelet length sleeves (my favourite). This design seems very representative of the 1960s to me, with its plain simplicity and straight body-line, combined with heavier design work emphasising the sleeve.
"...decorative stitches and scooped necklines make pretty tops to wear on summer days..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 3 sizes with the larger sizes; where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back and Front alike.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 132/140/148 stitches loosely and work 24 rows in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.
Make a hem on the next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Purl back.

With right side facing, change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until work measures 14 ins. down centre, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes: by casting off' 7/5/9 stitches at beg. of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 96 stitches remain.

Shape neck:

Next row(right side facing): k2tog, k16, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: p2tog, purl to end.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain; p2, then k2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 60 stitches on a spare needle, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, k16, k2tog.

Next row: purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No. 11 needles, cast on 99/111/111 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: purl.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: knit.
6th row: * k4, wfd, k2tog; rep, from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
7th row: purl.
8th row: k1, * k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
9th row:
purl.
10th row:
k1, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, repeat from * to last 6 stitches; wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
11th row:
: purl.
12th row:
* k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; k2tog, wfd, K1.
These 12 rows form the lace pattern.
Repeat them 9 times more.
Next row: knit.

Shape top as follows:

1st row: cast off 9, purl to end.
2nd row:
cast off 9, knit to end.
**
3rd row:
p2tog, purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
4th row:
knit.
5th row:
k2tog, * k4, wI.fwd., K2tog; repfrom * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2tog, k1, k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
8th row:
purl.
9th row:
k2tog., k4, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k3; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, k2tog.
10th row: purl.
11th row:
k2tog, * k3, k2tog, wfd, k1; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, k2tog.
12th row:
knit.
13th row:
as 3rd row.
14th row:
knit. **
Repeat from ** to ** 2/3/3 times more: 45 stitches remain.
Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Yoke

Join raglan seams.

Stitches for yoke are arranged on the circular needle for easy working but pattern is worked backwards and forwards with a backopening.

Using a spare No 11 needle, divide 60 stitches at back onto 2 needles.

With right side facing and using the circular No 11 needle, knit 30 stitches from left side of back, pick up and knit 11 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of front, k60 stitches from spare needle, pick up and knit 10 stitches up shaped edge, purl 45 sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 11 stitches down shaped edge of back, then knit remaining 30 stitches: 253 stitches

Next row: knit.

Continue as follows:-

1st row: k6, * wfd, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: k4, * k2tog, wfd, k1, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k3, k2tog, * wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, wfd, k3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3.
6th row: purl.
7th row: k2, * k2tog, wfd, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2tog, wfd, k3.
8th row: knit.
9th row: purl.
10th row: knit.
11th row: purl.
12th row: * k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
24th row: * k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1-11 inclusive once.
36th row: * k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1: 145 stitches

Change to No 12 needles and work 20 rows stocking stitch, starting with a knit row. Cast off loosely.

Cuffs

With No 12 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 60/66/66 stitches along each sleeve edge. Work 37 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Fold neck border and cuffs in half to wrong side and slip-hem in position.
With No 12 needles and right side facing, pickup and knit 35 stitches along right side of back opening.
1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, k2tog, wfd, * k4, k2tog, wfd, repeat from * 4 times more, k2.
3rd row: knit.
Cast off.
Press all seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8/9/9 ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in Powder Blue.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles, and a circular No 11 needle for the yoke.

6 small buttons.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 32-33/34-35/36-37 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21/22/22 inches; sleeve seam: 12 inches all sizes.

Abbreviations

wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

sl1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

This is a good time to look for fine yarns as all the main companies seem to be offering them in a wider range of qualities and colours.

3 ply weight might be a bit harder to find (outside baby wools) - but I believe you could get the right tension by varying needle sizes and using the laceweight yarns such as Rowan Fine Lace (80% baby alpaca, 20% merino; 400m per 50g) or Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace (100% merino; 390m per 50g).
As yet I have not tried a vintage pattern with these yarns but the fine weight and texture makes them seem ideal. Unfortunately I cannot offer guidance on the yardage of the vintage wools, but from looking at the patterns designed for the modern yarns, it seems that 4 or 5 x 50g balls might be sufficient for an 8 or 9 oz sweater.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". .

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


CoolTrend1962-23.jpg

Cooler Trend for Summer I

CoolTrend1.jpg

Well we certainly have a cooler trend for summer here in the UK, so this early sixties short sleeved light woollen top might be just the right thing. For myself, I prefer either sleeveless or three-quarter sleeves, (which might prove a relatively simple adaptation), but I think the collar is a very pretty and original design.
"...designs for the warm spells use fine wools and feminine touches for trimming..."

Note: I have not knitted this pattern, so if you have a problem with it, then please let me know so I can try and help.

Instructions

Instructions are for 2 sizes with the larger size given in brackets, (bold blue); where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Front

**
With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 118 (124) sts and work 1½ (2½) inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 10 (12) sts evenly across the last row. [118 (124) sts]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P21 (25) * k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21 (25).
2nd row: K21 (25), *p2, k8, p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
3rd row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; k2, p21(25).
4th row: k21 (25), *p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts; p2, k21 (25).
5th row: p21 (25), * k2, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1, m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog., psso, k1, m1k, p1, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts., k2, p21 (25).
6th row: k21 (25), * p2, k2, p3, k2, p5, k2, p3, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
7th row: p21 (25), * k2, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2 tog., m1k, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1k, p2tog, m1k, k3, m1k, p2tog; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
8th row: k21 (25), *p2, kl, p5, kl, p5, k, p5, k1; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
9th row: p21(25), * k2, p1, m1p, k7, slip 1, k2tog, psso k7, m1p, p1; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, k2, p21(25).
10th row: k.21 (25), * p2, k2, p15, k2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
11th row: p21(25), * k2, p2, m1p, k6, slip1, k2tog, psso, k6, m1p, p2; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p2l (25).
12th row: k21 (25), * p2, k3, p13, k.3; repeat from * to last 23(27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
13th row: p21 (15), * k2, p3, m1p, k5, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k5, m1p, p3; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
14th row: k21(25), * p2, k4, p11, k4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
15th row: p21(25) * k2, p4, m1p, k4, slip1, k2tog, psso, k4, m1p, p4; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
16th row: k21(25, * p2, k5,p9, K 5; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21(25).
17th row: p21(25), * k2, p5, m1p, k3, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k3, m1p, p5; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
18th row: k21 (25), * p2, k6, p7, k6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
19th row: p21 (25), * k2, p6, m1p, k2, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k2, m1p, p6; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
20th row: k21(25), * p2, k7, p5, k7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
21st row: p21 (25), * k2, p7, m1p, k1, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k1, m1p, p7; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
22nd row: k21 (25), * p2, k8; p3, k8; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
23rd row: p2l (25), * k2, p8, m1p, slip 1, k2tog, psso, m1p, p8; repfrom * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21 (25).
24th row: k21(25), * p2, k19; rep, from * to last 23 (27) sts, p2, k21 (25).
25th row: p21(25), * k2, p19; repeat from * to last 23 (27) sts, k2, p21(25).
26th row: as 24th.
27th -30th rows: as 25th and 26th rows worked twice.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until 3 patterns and 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at beg, of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch. at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 100 (104) sts remain. Work one more row in pattern.
**

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row: pattern 43 (45), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: work in pattern.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30) sts remain.
Keeping continuity of pattern work straight until 5 patterns and 28 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 10 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 14 sts, pattern to end. Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

BACK SLEEVES

Back

Work as for front from ** to** ; [100 (104)] sts
Continue straight in pattern until back matches front at armhole edge. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9(10) sts at the beginning of the of next 4 rows, then 10 (10) sts at beg, of the next 2 rows. Cast off remaining 44 sts.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 80 (80) sts and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 4 sts evenly across on last row. [84(84) sts] Change to No 10 needles and pattern arranging stitches as follows:

1st row (right side facing): p20, [k2, p7, p2tog, m1k, k1, m1k, p2tog, P7] twice, k2, P20.
2nd row: k20, [p2, k8, p3, k8] twice, p2, k20. .

Continue thus keeping continuity of lace pattern until 20 rows have been completed.

With right side facing, continue in pattern and shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 38 sts remain. Work one row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 sts remain. Work one row and cast off.

Neck Frill

With No 12 needles, cast on 16 sts.

1st row (right side facing): k5, p6, k5.
2nd row: p5, turn, k5.
3rd row: p16.
4th row: k5, turn, p5.
5th and 6th rows: as 3rd and 4th rows.
7th row: k5, p6, k5.
8th row: p5, turn, k5.
9th row: k5, p1, cast off 4, p1, k5.
10th row: p5, turn, k5.
11th row: P6, cast on 4, p6.
12th row: k5, turn, p5.
13th row: p16.
14th row: k5, p6, k5.
15th - 18th rows: as 1st and 2nd rows twice.
19th row: p16.
20th row: k5, turn, p5.
21st - 28th rows: as l3th-20th rows.

Repeat rows 5-28 inclusive 16 times more, then rows 5-20 once. Cast off.

With No. 12 needles, cast on 5 sts and work 23 ins. k1, p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work very lightly under a damp cloth..
Join shoulder, side, and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Join neck frill neatly; pin into position all round neck so that garter- stitch in the centre of the border and the frill overlap on to main work. Catch down neck edge just below top frill on wrong side, then catch down other edge to main work at garter-stitch border at back of lower frill, (so stitching is hidden by the frill). Thread ribbed strip through slots in neck border and join neatly.



Press all seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 8 (9) ozs Patons Nylox Knitting 4-ply in "Palamino"
[Editor's note: I'm guessing a golden beige.]

A pair each Nos 12 and 10 (2¾mm and 3¼) needles.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34-35 (36-37) inches; length from top of shoulders: 20½ (21½) inches; sleeve seam: 3½ (3½) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

m1k: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

Patons Nylox was designed as a sock wool with 25% nylon as the name implies. It was quickly appropriated for children's items as it was hard wearing and fine weight. By the 1960s, nylon was the material of choice, producing almost indestructable knitwear in brilliant non-fade colours - so this versatile nylon-rich wool was an ideal choice for lighter-weight summer clothes.
[Editor's note: Nylon lost its glamour in the1970s when we all went back to nature - everything in moderation, I say.....]

Any standard 4ply yarn is suitable, and currently there are a lot of them about in a good range of colours for grown-ups, such as Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, Rowan Pure Wool 4ply, and Susan Crawford's Excelana 4ply aimed at vintage knitters.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


CoolTrend1962-13.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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