Gloves for a Lady I
A very early pattern to make these charming light weight gloves using fine 2ply yarn. You could also use a mercerised cotton for summer gloves, but (as the pattern encourages) check your tension carefully.
Note that these glove patterns are very elderly and thus you have to make allowances in the instructions. They talk about "plain knitting" and they don't give a lot of explanation about how you turn the work and pick up the stitches. Generally they expect you to fend for yourself; I have not tested this pattern so if you would like to double check what I have written or if you want a second opinion I'm happy to try and help.
Instructions:The gloves are worked in blackberry stitch (also known as trinity stitch)
on 2 needles. The nature of this stitch means that the number of stitches
can vary from row to row; this can seem a little puzzling as it means
the instructions for the right and left hand gloves seem not to be symmetrical
- but they should work out OK. Right-hand Glove:Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts. 1st row: k1, purl to last stitch,
k1. These 4 rows form the basic pattern. Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times. The Thumb Next row: k1, p32, k1. Turn Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1, p20, k1. Repeat 1st to 4th row three times. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog,
k1) twice, k1. Break off wool and run end through remaining sts.
First Finger Next row: k1, p34, increase once
in next stitch. Turn. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1, p17, k1. Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch in last row. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog,
k1) twice. Finish off as given for Thumb. Second Finger With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 2 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, k1. Turn. Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, cast on 4sts. Turn. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1, p19, k1. Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing
one stitch in last row. Third Finger With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p5, increase in the next stitch. Turn. Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) three times, p3tog, p1; cast on 4sts. Turn. Then work exactly as given for First Finger. Fourth Finger With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p5, k1. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch;
p3tog) four times; k1. Repeat from 1st to 4th row three times, then 1st row once. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog,
k1) twice. Finish off as given for First Finger. The Frill With wrong side of work facing, pick up 52 sts, from cast-on edge of glove. Join in wool. 1st row: k1, * k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1. Work 3 rows in plain knitting. 5th row: k1, *
increase once in next st, repeat from *
to last st, k1. [There should now be 52 sts. on needle]. Continue in this manner until there are 164 sts. on needle. Next row: k1, * p2, k8, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1. Cast off knitways. Left-hand Glove:Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts. Work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached. The Thumb Next row: k1, p31, cast on 11 sts.
Turn. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1, p20, k1. Repeat 1st to 4th row three times. Decrease and finish off as given for the Thumb of Right-hand Glove. Using needle containing 21 sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches
from 11 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; p21, k1 across remaining
stitches. First Finger Next row: k1, p35, cast on 5 sts.
Turn. Then work exactly is given for First Finger of of Right-hand Glove. Second Finger With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 5 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, cast on 4sts. Turn. Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog; k1. Turn. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1, p17, k1. Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing
one stitch at the end of the last row. Third Finger With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p6, cast on 3sts. Turn. Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1. Turn. Then proceed as follows:- 1st row: k1, p19, k1. Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing
one stitch in last row. Fourth Finger With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 3 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p6, k1. Then work exactly as given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove. Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove. Making Up:With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly. |
Materials1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply. One pair of No 12 (2¾ mm) needles. Tension3 patterns (12 sts) to 1 inch. Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension. Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch. Size mattersWidth all round above thumb, 5½ ins. [Editor's note: 5½ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!] Abbreviationswon: wool over needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row. p3tog: purl 3 stitches together (decrease 2) k1p1k1: knit and purl into front, then knit into back of next stitch (increase 2) k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease). k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts. A word on the woolAlthough it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight. Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me. The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to. So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects. They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight. I can't wait to experiment. Disclaimer
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