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September 2017

Team Mates for Outdoors

TeamMatesForOutdoors.jpg

"Their woollies match - her warm button-up and his comfortable sweater"
But still so sad to have to say goodbye to the the lovely man.

Instructions.

Pattern rows used throughout:

1st row (wrong side facing): p3, * slip the next 2 stitches on to the cable needle and place to back of work, k2, k2 from cable needle (this will be called cable back), slip next 2 stitches on to cable needle to front of work, k2, k2 from cable needle (this will be
called cable front), p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, cable back, cable front, p3.
2nd row: k3, * (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k6, p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k3.
3rd row: p3, * (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p6, k8, p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p3.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 4 times more, then 2nd row again.

13th row: As 1st row.
14th row: k3, * p8, k6, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.
15th row: p3, * k8, p6, (k. l, p1) 3 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k8, p3.
Repeat 14th and 15th rows 4 times more, then 14th row again.

These 24 rows form the pattern.

Cardigan Back

With No. 12 needles cast on 98 stitches and work 3½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 25th and every following 6th row, 6 times (110 sts), taking increased stitches into reversed stocking-stitch.
Work straight until back measures 12½mm inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 20 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then cast off remaining stitches loosely.

Cardigan Left Front

With No 12 needles cast on 42 stitches and work 3½ inches
in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches , p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern, shaping side edge by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 25th and every following 6th row, 6 times, taking increased stitches into reversed stocking-stitch.

Work straight until front matches back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every row until
31 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 18½ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, then on the following 3 rows at this edge.

Work straight until front measures 20 inches, then, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Cardigan Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles cast on 50 stitches and work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k7, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 15 stitches, p8, k7.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern but keeping the 7 stitches at each end of the needle in reversed stocking stitch instead of 3.

Thus your 1st row will read:
p7, * cable back, cable front, p6; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.

Continue thus in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 64 stitches , taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made (you will now have 5 cable panels across sleeve).

Continue increasing as before on every 6th row until there are 78 stitches, taking the increased stitches into reversed stocking stitch.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 36 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 24 stitches remain; cast off.

Making Up the Cardigan

Using a warm iron and slightly damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting welts.

Join shoulder seams.

Front bands:
With No 12 needles cast on 13 stitches and work a strip in moss stitch, [ie, every row (k1, p1) 6 times, k1], to fit up the left front when slightly stretched. Sew in position as you go along and leave stitches on a spare needle or a stitch holder at the top.

Make a similar strip for the right front with the addition of 11 buttonholes, the first to come ¼-inch from lower edge, and the 11th about ½-inch from the top (allowing for 12th hole to come in the neckband later) and the remainder at equal intervals. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes on right front to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
Moss 5, cast off 3, moss to end and then work back, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder as before.

Neckband:
With right side facing and No 12 needles, moss 13 stitches from right front border, pick up and knit 67 stitches all round neck and moss remaining 13 stitches from left border.

Work 1 inch in moss-stitch, making 12th buttonhole after ¾-inch has been done; cast off in moss stitch.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew on buttons.


Pullover Back

With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 126 stitches and work 3½ inches
k1/p1 rib.

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; rep. from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and work straight in pattern, until back measures 14 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape armholes by casting oft 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 stitches remain.

Work straight until back measures 23 inches, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Pullover Front

Work exactly as for back to end of armhole shapings (96 stitches).

Work straight over all stitches until front measures 18½ inches at centre. Here divide for neck:
With right side facing, pattern 38, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continuing on first 38 stitches only, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following 3rd row until 30 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Now return to the remaining stitches. Slip the centre 20 on a spare needle or stitch holder, and rejoin the yarn to the last 38 stitches, at the neck edge, and work to correspond with first shoulder.

Sleeves

With No 11 needles cast on 64 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the last row (70 stitches).

Next row: k3, * p8, k6; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p8, k3.

Change to No 9 needles and working in pattern, increase 1 stitch at
each end of the 13th and every following 6th row until there are 88 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the reversed stocking stitch border.
Work straight until sleeve measures 19½ inches, or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 25 stitches remain. Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam, and with right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 120 stitches all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work 1 inch k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pullover

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

11oz for the cardigan and 13oz for the pullover.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm), No 11 (3mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
Cable needle.

12 buttons for the cardigan.

Tension

26 sts to 4 inches
(This must be measured over the pattern).

Size matters

Cardigan: To fit 33-34-inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 20½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18 inches.

Pullover: To fit 37-39 inch chest;
length from top of shoulders: 23½
inches;
sleeve seam, 19½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Pattern detail:

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Glengarry.
Originals colour "straw" No. 1037.

This yarn is described as a "medium weight sports yarn".

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2017

Beach Coat

BeachCoat1.jpg

Warm wrap for the beach with a hood - completely appropriate for a breezy British summer's day!.
The wrap is lined with towelling (optional) - and I think this is an excellent idea for a beach wrap. You will need to choose as fine (thin) a towelling fabric as you can because the wrap will already be fairly chunky even though it is made from a light weight quickknit or 5ply.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes with larger sizes given in brackets.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Navy Blue by B, Green by G, and Pink by P.

Back

With colour B, cast on 130 (138) stitches and work 3 inches straight.
Fold work in half and make a hem on the next row.
Continue straight in B until piece measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to G and work 4 inches Break G.
Change to W and work 6 rows. Break W.
Change to P and work 3 inches Break P.
Change to W and work straight until back measures 16 inches from
lower edge.
Continue in W and shape armholes by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Continue straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off stitches

Shape shoulders by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows. Work 8 rows straight on remaining 46 (46) stitches
Transfer these stitches on to a spare knitting needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Right Front

With Colour B, cast on 68 (72) stitches and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row : Purl, casting on 10 (10) stitches at end of row for facing front edge.

Continue straight in B until work measures 6 inches from lower edge. Break B.
Join in W and continue in striped pattern exactly as for back until stripe in P is done. Break P.

Continue in W until front measures 16 inches from lower edge,
ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next row for armhole, then work straight until armhole measures 9½ inches from cast-off
stitches ending at armhole edge.

Next row (wrong side facing): shape shoulder by casting off 8 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, (armhole edge).

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 10 (10) stitches at the front edge, then work 8 rows straight on remaining 26 (26) stitches.
Transfer these stitches on to a spare needle or stitch holder and leave for the time being.

Left Front

As for right front, cast on 68 (72) stitches in colour B, and work 3 inches straight.

Next row (right side facing): Fold work in half and make hem.
Next row (wrong side facing): cast on 10 (10) stitches for front edge facing, purl to end.

Work to correspond with right front reversing the shapings.
Editors note: the cast off for the armhole and shoulder are with right side facing, and the cast off for the front edge is with wrong side facing.

Sleeves

With colour B, cast on 80 (80) stitches and work 4 inches straight in stocking-stitch for facing. Break B.
Change to W and work straight for a further 4 inches

Continue in W and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 100 stitches, then at each end of every following 4th row until there are 120 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve measures 20 (20) inches down centre from start of W.
Cast off loosely right across.

Hood

First Half:
With wrong side of work facing, slip 26 stitches from right front and 23 stitches from back of neck on to one needle. [49 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): * p2; purl twice in next stitch; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [65 sts].

Continue in W and work 2 rows straight, then cast on 17 stitches at front edge for facing. Work 12½ inches straight.
Cast off.

Second Half:
Work to correspond with first half.

Facing:
Join back and top seam of hood.
With colour B, cast on 27 stitches and work a strip to fit all round front
edge of hood. Cast off.

To Make Up

Editors note: lining the coat with fine towelling is optional (as is the colour of the lining material). However, if you are planning to do so, it is a good idea to cut out the lining using the knitted pieces as a pattern guide, at this point - before you sew the coat together. Allow ¼-½ inch turnings for the seams.

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, pinning out each piece to shape and taking care not to stretch centre edges on fronts.
Join shoulder seams.
Pin cast-off edge of sleeves along armholes in between the 10 cast-off stitches at start, then pin side edges of sleeves to the cast-off stitches thus giving a square effect to sleeve top.
Sew in position.
Join sleeve and side seams, matching stripes carefully.

Fold under 10 facing stitches down front edges and slip-hem lightly in position; catch down neatly at neck and lower edge.
Fold under 4 inches of blue facing on sleeves and catch down lightly all round on wrong side.

Press lightly and turn back 2½ inches of facing on to right side for cuffs.
Sew the white facing ribbon all round neck on wrong side just below start of hood, inserting cord as you do so. With W wool, bind or knot cord 1 inch in from each end, then fringe ends for tassels.

Sew blue facing all round front of hood, right sides facing, and along cast-on stitches at each side; turn width of facing on to wrong side and press; catch down neatly all round so that stitches do not show through on right side. Fold back on to right side and catch down at sides to keep in position.

Press all seams.

Line back, fronts and hood with yellow towelling if required.

Materials

Quick-knit, 5ply, or light double knitting: 14(15) 1oz balls in White, 6(6)oz in Royal Blue, and 2(2)oz each in Carnival Pink, and Shannon Green.

A pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

2 yards of fine yellow towelling for the lining; 1 yard of white facing ribbon; 1¼ yards white cord.

Tension

26 sts to 4 ins on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35(36-39) inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 26 inches
Sleeve seam: 16 ins with cuff turned back.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Quickerknit Botany.
Note that 1 oz is about 28g.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality and available in wonderful range of colours. [Though if you really want to use it al lot on the beach you might want to look for a less luxurious fibre option].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Make a Hem

There are a number of tutorials on You tube about making an invisible hem as you knit.

This one shows you two ways - the first part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

This one shows you a number of ways to make a hem starting with just making the hem at the end when you sew up. The latter part of the tutorial applies to the type you need here.

BeachCoat2.jpg

April 2017

Sail Away - pullover

TabardPullover.jpg

I admit that including the word "tabard" in the description of a pattern is not so inspiring - for one such as I anyway, a teenager in an era where tabards were ubiquitous and possibly naff even then. However it was named prior to that time and is after all merely descriptive - and I love this pullover. Styled perfectly as shown, worn over a polo-neck - very glamorous, very European, very sixties.

Sail away on a windy day in this attractive tabard style overpull. Jaunty and gay in snug and wind-proof yarn -- heavier than double-knit, yet so light and crisp in feeling. Gold and dark blue colour bands stripe the lower edges and smart side slits, and note the special crew neckline, designed to slip easily over a polo sweater.

Instructions.

Instructions for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Gold by G and Navy Blue by B.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 7 needles and white yarn W, cast on 76/82/88 stitches and work straight in stocking stitch until piece measures 17/17/17½ ins,
ending with a purl row.

Shape neck:
Next row: knit 30/32/34. Turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare
needle, and work each side of the neck separately.
Next row: cast off 2, purl to end.
Next row:knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 18/20/22 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 /21 /21½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder by casting oft 6/6/8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6/7/7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
With right side facing, slip centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin wool to the remaining 30/32/34 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Next row: cast off 2, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles and blue yarn B, cast on 46/46/48 stitches, and work 8 rows in garter-stitch, (every row knit). Break off B.
Join in gold yarn G, and work a further 8 rows in garter-stitch. Break off G.
Join in W, Change to No 7 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 76/76/80 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18½/18½/19 inches.
Editors note: eagle-eyed among you may notice that you knit 18-19 inches here when the size quotes the sleeve seam as 2 inches shorter; this is because 2 inches of the length of the sleeve is sewn to the side panels - which will be clearer when you are making up and finishing.

Cast off loosely using a larger needle.

Borders

Front Neck: With right side facing, using yarn G, and No 8 needles, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round left side of neck, knit 16/18/20 from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round right side. {76/78/80 sts}

Next row: knit.
Next row: (k17, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k24, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k16, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Break off G.
Join in B. and knit 2 rows.
Next row: (k15, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row:
knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k20, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k13, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit. {58/60/62 sts}
Cast off evenly knitwise.

Back Neck: Work as for front neck

Lower Edge: With right side facing, No 8 needles and G, pick up and knit 76/82/88 stitches along lower edge of front.

Work 7 rows garter-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row.
Break G.

Join in B, and work 8 rows garter-stitch, increasing stitch at each end of every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.
Work the lower edge for the back in the same way.

Side edges:
Editors note: You are making a side panel here, knit sideways from the back and front pieces, so you need to do this 4 times - once each side of the two pieces. Refer to the photo which makes it clearer..
Measure 8/8/ ins. down from shoulders for armholes and place a marker at each side edge on back and front.
With right side facing, No 8 needles and G pick up and knit 66/66/66 stitches along white panel on each side edge, ie between markers and start of border at lower edge.
Knit 7 rows G, increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on the next and every alternate row. Break G.
Join in B, and knit 8 rows increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join mitred borders at each corner of lower edge with a flat seam, using a fine backstitch seam.
Join side seams leaving 5 inches open at lower edge for side slits.
Join shoulder seams, matching borders.
Join sleeve seams to within 2 inches of cast-off edge.
Pin the 2 inches of open seam along side borders on back and front, then pin cast-off edge all round armhole; sew in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn: 13/11/15 1oz balls in White and 3 1oz balls in each of Gold and Light Navy Blue.

A pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

20 sts x 25 rows to 4 ins on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
34-35/36-37/38-39 inches, worn loosely as an overblouse.
Length from top of shoulders: 23/23/23½ inches.
Sleeve seam: 16/16/16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Flair - one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight . As usual no clues as to the yardage, but it was 60% wool, 40% courtelle (acrylic).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2017

Snow Set: sweater

SnowSetSweater.jpg

Continental after-ski casuals - fifties style .

... even though my sporty friends tell me that even more recent items that I think of as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

"Hey look - over there - someone's wearing socks to match my sweater!"
[...and in case you were wondering - I think it's an orange she's holding.]

Instructions.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Black by B, and Red by R.
The colour panels are worked with separate balls of wool in the intarsia fashion. Twist the wools on the wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Front

With No 8 needles and white yarn W, cast on 99 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end, and ending with a wrong side row.

With right side facing, change to pattern introducing the fair-isle pattern (worked from the chart) in stocking-stitch and the red panel in red yarn (R) worked in rib up the centre.

Continue setting out the panels as follows:—
1st row: k15 W, p1 W; join in 1st ball of B, and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; join in R and k5; join in 2nd ball W and B and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; p1 W, k15 W.
2nd row: p15 W, k1 W; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; change to R, (p1, k1) twice, p1 R; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; k1 W, p15 W.
3rd row: k15 W, p1 W; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart; in R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart, p1 W, k15 W.

Keeping centre rib and pattern correct work 9 rows straight.

Next row: k12 W; k2tog W; pattern 31; k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it; p1 R, k1 R, p1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back of loops, k12 W.
Next row: p14 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2; pattern 31; k1 W, p14 W.
Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Next row: k11 W; k2tog W, k1 W, p1 W; pattern 31, k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it; using R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back loops, k11 W.
Next row: p13 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1 R; pattern 31; k1 W, p13 W.

Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Continue in pattern increasing the rib stitches in this way and decreasing in the White panel at each end, on the next and every following 16th row until work measures 13½ inches from the start, and ending with right side facing.

Shape sleeves as follows:
Continue shaping on every 16th row as before and at the same time shape for sleeves by casting on in W: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [265 sts]

This completes the sleeve shaping

Continue in pattern shaping on every 16th row as before until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: Work 124, rib the next 17 stitches, placing them on to a stitch-holder and leave for the time being; work 124 stitches to end.

Continue on the last 124 stitches only, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows.

Next row: Cast off 31, work to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, work to end.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work back, then cast off the remaining 9 stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining 124 stitches, work to end. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows, then finish to correspond with right shoulder.

Back

With No 8 needles and W yarn, cast on 95 stitches and
work 3 inches k1/p1 rib as for front.

Change to stocking-stitch, working in White throughout, and work straight until side edge measures same as front ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape for sleeves by casting on: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [261 sts]

Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing. Shape sleeves and shoulders by casting off 31 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [29 sts]
Leave remaining 29 stitches on a stitch-holder.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing, the set of No 10 needles and Black yarn B, starting at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 16
stitches up right side of neck, then knit 29 stitches across back of
neck. [78 sts]

Work in rounds of k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cuffs

With right side facing, using two No 10 needles and Black yarn B, pick up and knit 40 stitches along sleeve edge. Work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 13 oz in white (W), 3 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 8 (4mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

2 stitch holders.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 22 inches.
Sleeve seam: 16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

And here we see the whole splendid outfit.
[... and she's still holding on to that orange...]

SnowSetOutfit.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: slipper boots

SnowSetSlipperBoots1.jpg

Sports wear.... skiing!
... even though my sporty friends tell me that even the items I think of from more recent years as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

Anyway - to kick off in fifties style - "ankle-warm slipper boots".

Instructions

Make two socks alike.

Main body:

Using the pair of No 10 needles and red (R) yarn, cast on 51 stitches, and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, (k3, increase in next stitch) 6 times, k1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, k2. [57 sts]
Break red yarn (R).

Join in white (W) and purl 1 row.

Now introduce black yarn B and work the fair-isle pattern over the centre 31 stitches, using stocking stitch and reading from the chart, and keeping 13 stitches on either side in rib as before.
[x indicates black stitches].

Work rows 1 through 12 from the chart, 3 times in all, then 1st and 2nd rows again.

Next row: Rib 13 and slip these stitches on to a length of wool or a stitch holder for the time being, pattern across the next 31 stitches, slip the remaining 13 stitches on a length of wool as before.
Continue on the centre 31 stitches only, and continuing the pattern from the chart until the 6th row of the 7th pattern has been done from start.
Break black yarn B.

Next row: (k2, k2tog.) 7 times, k1, k2tog. [23 sts]
Next row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Adjust length of foot here:

For size 5 foot work 2 rows straight in stocking stitch;
for size 6 foot work 4 rows straight;
for size 7 foot work 6 rows straight.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping toe by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every knit row until 15 sts remain, then at each end of every row until 9 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To make heel:

Slip the 26 stitches left on spare wool or stitch holders on to one needle and with right side facing, join in W
[Editor's Note: you are making the heel here so you need to arrange the 2 sets of stitches so that the free ends of the knitting meet in the centre, and you start knitting at the edge of the centre panel you have just been knitting.]
and work as follows:

1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p2tog., (k1, p1) 5 times, k2.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Continue in rib for 2¼ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib, leaving last stitch on needle.

To shape instep, using needle with the 1 stitch remaining, pick up and knit 10 stitches along the side of the heel.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Next row: Knit to the last 3 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, pick up and knit 11 stitches along the other side of the heel and work to correspond.

Making up

Press the pattern parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join instep pieces to foot.
Using red yarn (|R) and the set of 4 No 10 needles, pick up and knit 134 stitches (for size 5), 138 stitches (for size 6), 142 stitches (for size 7), all round lower edge of slipper (where it will be sewn to the soles).
Work 4 rounds k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew zip fasteners in position down centre back, then join the rest of back the seam.

Stitch slipper firmly to sole.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 2 oz in white (W), 1 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Two 4 inch zip fasteners.

A pair of slipper soles.

Tension

24 st and 32 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

To fit UK women's size 5,6,7.
European: 37, 38, 39

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A slightly clearer picture of the boots, showing the snazzy back zip closing.

SnowSetSlipperBoots2.jpg

November 2016

Elegance for winter cocktails

BeadedTop.jpg

I admit this is clearly styled for summer but I always thought to make it in black with gold beads and perhaps a gold metallic yarn for the collar.
Either way it's a lovely flattering top in fine yarn.

This pattern offers you the option of beads - which are threaded on in advance and then knitted in - or "trimmmed with embroidery". I found a good alternative to pre-threading beads which is hooking them, where you can work them in as you go. I wrote about this technique in an earlier entry, and repeat the instructions here at the end of these pattern instructions.
I think beads would be lovely for a winter version and perhaps embroidery for summer.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. Instructions in square brackets also apply to both sizes.
For beaded version the instructions are the same, but to form the
pattern work "bead over next stitch" instead of p1 in the pattern
rows. The beads are knitted in on the right side of the work and to
work a "bead over next stitch" bring wool to front of work, push a
bead up wool close to front of work, slip 1 purlways, wool back; the
bead is now lying on top of the slipped stitch.

To thread beads on to the wool, make a needle with a 4-inch length of fuse wire by folding up 1½ inches of wire into a loop, slip the end of the wool through the loop, then twist the wire very tightly to form a smooth needle with the wool fixed firmly at the end.

[Editor's note: I wrote about threading beads in a previous article - go to this link to see some pictures.]

Back

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and pink wool, cast on 107 (113) stitches and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. With right side facing, change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows:

For bead version: break wool and thread 126 beads.

1st - 6th rows: Work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
7th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k5, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k29; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
8th row: Purl.
9th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k6, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k26; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
10th row: Purl.
11th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k7, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1]
3 times, k22; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
12th row: Purl.
13th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k8, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k21; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
14th row: Purl.
15th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k 9, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k14, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
16th row: Purl.
17th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k10, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
18th row: Purl.
19th (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k11, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k6; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
20th row: Purl.
21st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k14, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k4, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k7; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
22nd row: Purl.
23rd (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 or "bead over next stitch", k3, [p1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k8; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
24th row: Purl.
25th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k20, [p1, or "bead over next stitch", k1] 3 times, k9; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
26th row: Purl.
27th (pattern) row: k1 (4),* k19, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch," k1] 3 times, k10; repeat from * to last 1(4) stitches, k1 (4).
28th row: Purl.
29th (pattern) row: k1 (4), * k18, [p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k1] twice, k13; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4) .
30th row: Purl.
31st (pattern) row: k1 (4) , * k17, p1 1 or "bead over next stitch", k17; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).
32nd row: Purl.
33rd - 38th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.
39th - 44th rows: As 1st - 6th rows.

For bead version, break wool and thread 126 beads.

45th - 70th rows: As 7th to 32nd rows but reverse, motif by reading pattern rows (odd rows) backwards,for example 45th (7th) row will read:
45th row: k1 (4), * k29, p1 or "bead over next stitch" k5; repeat from * to last 1 (4) stitches, k1 (4).

71st - 76th rows: As 1st to 6th rows.

These 76 rows form pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until there are 125 (131) stitches, taking increased stitches into stocking stitch a few rows straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.
**

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 97 (99) stitches remain.

Continue straight in pattern until 5 lines of motifs have been done, then continue in stocking-stitch until back measures 22½ inches down centre. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 37 (39) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. Continue in pattern shaping armholes by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and following alternate row. [107 (113) sts]
Purl 1 row.

Now shape neck:

Next row: k2tog, pattern 45 (48), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or needle holder.
Next row:
Purl.
Next row: k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge, on the following 3 (5) alternate rows, then keep this edge straight, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following 4th row until 30 stitches remain.

Work straight in stocking-stitch until front matches back.

With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, shaping shoulder by casting off 10 (10) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows (the armhole edge).
With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, cast off centre 13, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: Purl.
Next row:
k2tog, pattern to last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Collar

Join shoulder seams. With No 11 needles and white (contrast) wool, cast on 31 (33) stitches.
1st row:* k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: Rib 1, rib2tog, rib to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, rib 1.
3rd row: Rib.

Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits comfortably all round neck. Cast off in rib; join short sides.

Making Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. With No. 11 needles, right side facing and pink wool, pick up and knit 110 (110) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 1 inch k1/p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Embroidered Jumper: With white wool embroider motifs in the pattern by working 6 diagonal lines of running stitches through the purl stitches of each motif all over back and front (see photo).

Join side seams.
Sew collar in position all round neck.
Press all seams and embroidery lightly.

Materials

7 (7) ozs Fingering 4 ply in "Radiant Pink", and 1 (l) oz in white.
For bead version:
white knit beads.

A pair each Nos 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 34-35 (36-37) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 22½ inches.

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

increase in next stitch: knit into the front and back of the stitch.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is a standard Patons 4 ply yarn. 1oz is about 28g, so 7oz is 4 50g balls; however I cannot offer any information on the yardage.

As usual with vintage patterns if you are substituting, you cannot rely on the quantities given in the instructions.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.


October 2016

Little Lumber Jacket

LittleLumberJacket.jpg

A delightful little child's jacket from the 1950s. Beryl knitted it for her grandson and it looks lovely on him - see pictures at the end. [She also gives useful feedback on the sizing].

Instructions:

Two sizes are given - see notes on sizing with the photos at the end. Larger size is shown in brackets, and where only one number is shown it applies to both sizes.

Pocket Flaps (make 2)

Using No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 13 stitches.

1st row: Purl.
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K2, (p1, k1) twice, wf, k2tog, (p1, k1) twice, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Break off wool and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1. .
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Work these two rows 8[9] times more, increasing one stitch the beginning of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}.

††
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, knitting the first stitch on every row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 8½[10] inches from the beginning, finishing at the side edge.

Shape armhole by casting off 3[3] stitches the the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch the the armhole edge on every row until 26[28] stitches remain.
††

Work 3[4] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the side edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P5[7]; cast off 13, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P8[8]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.

††
Keeping yoke pattern correct as on last 6 rows,
[Editor's Note: the 1st row in the 6 row pattern is always purl all stitches.]
continue until work measures 12[14] inches from the beginning, finishing at the front edge.

Keeping yoke pattern correct, shape neck by casting off 5[6] stitches at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 17[18] stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5[]inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, finishing at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8[9] stitches, pattern to end.
2nd row: Pattern across all stitches.
Cast off.

Left Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times, increasing one stitch the end of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}

Work as for Right Front from †† to ††.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the front edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P8[8]; cast off 13, purl to end.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P5[7]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Complete as for right Front working from ††to end.

Back:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 65[71] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures same as fronts up to the armhole shaping, finishing at the end of a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every row until 51[55] stitches remain.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the end of a purl row.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): Purl.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Continue in yoke pattern as on these 6 rows until work measures same as fronts up to shoulder shaping.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8[9] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 9[9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off.

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 32[34] stitches and

Work 2¼[] inches in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 1[2], (increase in next stitch, rib 3) 7 times; increase in next stitch, rib to end. {40[42] sts}.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 10th[10th] row until there are 50[54] stitches.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 10½[12] inches from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 14[16] stitches remain.

Cast off.

Collar:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 85[89] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1..
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K1, k2togtbl, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, k2tog, k1.
4th row: K1, p1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
5th rows: K1, k2togtbl, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k2tog, k1.

Work rows 2-5 inclusive 3 times more, then the 2nd row once.

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Pockets (make 2):

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch for 2½[] inches.
Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Using back stitch, join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Stitch Pockets into position on wrong side, stitching top of Pockets along inside of Pocket Flaps.
Stitch on Collar.
Attach buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
Stitch zip into position.
Press all seams.

Materials

7 [9] oz Double Knitting Yarn.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

12[14] inch open ended zip.
Two buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 23½[25½] inch chest.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½[15½] inches.
Sleeve seam: 10½[12] inches.

Abbreviations:

yf: yarn forward; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 sts together through back loops (aka "ssk" - slip slip knit, - slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit them together).
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Moorland, Double Quick, or Totem DK.
Easily to find modern double knitting yarns but you will need to review the quantities.
Beryl used 2½ x 50g balls of Sirdar Snuggly - a synthetic yarn with a very good yardage (165m per ball). The original pure wools required 4-5 x 50g balls (which is consistent with my own "rule of thumb" of around 100 yards per 50g ball for pure wools).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LittleLumberJacket3.jpg

And here is a picture of the cardigan knitted by Beryl in a modern yarn: 2½ balls of Sirdar Snuggly Double Knitting:

LittleLumberJacket2.jpg

Beryl had some notes on the sizing. The original pattern was for 4-7 year olds; her grandson was only 20 months old and she left the length as it was written - she says: "he is a chunky littel chap" and previous feedback for the Little Raglan Reefer suggested the lengths of these old patterns works up a bit short for modern taste. The sleeves could have been shortened (for a 20 month old) as you can see the cuffs are turned back. Beryl found the zip a challenge and ended up using the sewing machine.
Her conclusion is that if the knitter does the length longer and leaves the sleeves as they are it would be more suitable for a 2-3 year old.

Beryl said: "I love the jacket on my grandson and I have recently found a picture of my brother wearing the same cardigan that my Mum made for him!"

Doug.jpg

[And needless to say this one is my personal favourite - how is it that all our brothers from that era have such wonderful cheeky grins? All of them "Just William".]

July 2015

Beach swim set

SwimSet.jpg

I have a weakness for blue and white so I find this very appealing. I note that they emphasise the firmness of the diamond stitch - whether this is for modesty or keeping its shape one cannot be certain.
I am not altogether sure of he relevance of the props - basket of grapefruit (tropical beaches?), an apparently woolly scarf ("gosh it's chilly in this photo studio"?).

Instructions.

Strand unused wool loosely across back of work.
L signifies Light yarn and D is Dark yarn.

Pattern rows as follows:
1st row: Knit, * 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 7L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
2nd row: Purl, 3D, * 4L, 1D,1L, 1D,1L, 1D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3D.
4th row: 3L, * 3D, 3L, (1D, 1L) 6 times, 2L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * 3L, 3D, 4L, (1D, 1L) 5 times, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3L.
6th row: 3L, * 3D , 5L, (1D, 1L) 4 times, 4L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * 3D, 3L , 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
8th row: 3D, * 3L, 3D, 4L , 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
9th row: As 7th.
10th row: As 6th.
11th row: As 5th.
12th row: As 4th.
13th row: As 3rd.
14th row: As 2nd.
15th row: As 1st.
16th row: 3L, * 2L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to end
17th row: * 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3L.
18th row: 3L * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
19th row: * (1D, 1L) 4 times, 2L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
20th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
21st row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 1D, 1L, 1D.
22nd row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 3L, (3D, 3L) 3 times; 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
23rd row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, (3D, 3L) 3 times, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
24th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, (3L, 3D) 3 times, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
25th row: As 21st.
26th row: As 20th.
27th row: As 19th.
28th row: As 18th.
29th row: As 17th.
30th row: As 16th.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

[Editor's note: You can see how the pattern looks in the photo and on the chart but the chart is an adapted version specially designed to be used for the top.]

Trunks (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 107 stitches and work 24 rows k1, p1 rib.
Purl 1 row
Change to No 10 needles and pattern in stocking stitch.
At the same time shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 8th row, 8 times, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made. [123 sts]

Work straight to the end of the 14th row of the 3rd pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping legs by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 6 sts at the beginning of the following 14 rows. [23 sts remain and 3 complete patterns have been worked].

Work 6 rows straight in L on these 23 sts.
Cast off.

Trunks (back)

Work waist ribbing exactly as for front.
Then work back shaping thus:
Next row: Rib 64, turn; rib 21, turn; rib 31, turn; rib 41, turn; rib 51, turn; rib 61, turn; rib 71; turn; rib 81, turn; rib to end.
Rib back over all stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and pattern and finish exactly as front.

Top (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 101 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and increase for bust thus:
Next row: p32, purl twice into each of next 9 sts, p19, purl twice into each of the next 9 sts, p32. [119 sts]

Continue straight in pattern, working from chart, and reading knit rows from right to left, purl rows from left to right. Your first 2 rows will read:
1st row: Knit, A to B, then (B to C) 4 times, then C to D.
2nd row: Purl, D to C, then (C to B) 4 times, then B to A.

Continue thus until 26th row of chart has been worked.

SwimSet.jpg

With right side facing, continue working chart, and at the same time shaping top by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 2, pattern 48, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first half of work, decreasing 1 stitch at centre
front on every row and casting off 2 sts at side edge at the beginning of every knit row until the 39th row of the chart has been worked and 24 sts remain.

Change to No 12 needles and continue in l.. wool only, casting off 3 sts
at the beginning of every row until all stitches are gone.

With right side facing join wool to remaining stitches at centre front; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first shoulder, reversing shapings.

Top (back)

Left Back:
With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 54 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and work 22 rows straight. With right side facing, shape back by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next 6 knit rows.

Right back: Work to correspond with left, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press all pieces well under a damp cloth.

TRUNKS: Join under-leg seam. With
L wool, right side facing, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 116 sts along each leg; work 1 inch k1, p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.
Join side seams.
Turn under 12 rows of the rib at the waist and hem to wrong side, leaving an opening for elastic.

TOP: With right side facing, L wool, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 54 sts along top of left back. Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off.
Work right back in the same way.

With right side facing, begin at left side of front and pick up and knit 45 sts to top of left point, 26 down to centre, 26 to top of right point and 45 sts down right side.
Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the top of each point on alternate rows.
Cast off.

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 9 sts and work 2 strips each 14 inches long in k1, p1 rib for ties. Sew in position, one at top
of each point.
Join side seams.
With right side facing and L wool, work 2 rows double crochet down each side of back opening, then a 3rd row down right
side, making 6 button loops.
Sew on buttons.
Press all seams.
Thread shirring elastic through ribbing round lower edge of top.

Materials

Patons Purple Heather Fingering
4 ply, 5 oz light shade and 3 oz dark shade.

A pair each Nos 10 (3¼mm), 12 (2¾mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.
No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

Six small buttons
Shirring elastic

Tension

34sts and 32 rows to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit 34 inch bust; 36 inch hips; length from waist to crutch, 13½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

1L or 1D: knit or purl in light or dark colour.

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

Patons Purple Heather was a standard 4 ply; however the stated tension seems rather tighter but may be taking account of the fair-isle pattern and stranding the wool across the back, which tends to make the work tight.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2015

Ducks On Parade

DucksOnParade.jpg

A twin set with a duck motif for Easter. However, the biggest charmer here is in the photo. Not only is the girl cute and looking like she having a lovely day out, but we have a real star in the shape of an original Andy Pandy himself.

Even if the cardigan set does not appeal, these are cute little duckling motifs and the charts could be used for cushions or as cross stitch patterns.

Instructions:

The individual ducklings are worked intarsia style, but main shade is stranded loosely across back of work when not in use.
Eyes and beaks of ducklings, and water are embroidered afterwards.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

Cardigan Back

Begin by winding 4 balls each of Lemon (L) and Gold (G) wool.
With No 12 needles and main shade (M) wool, cast on 100 sts and work 2 inches k1, p1 rib, increasing 3 sts evenly across on last row. [103 sts].

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 30 pattern rows from chart B, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.
Join in separate balls of L and G for each duckling.

When the 30 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in main shade (M) only until back measures 9 inches. Then with right side facing, begin to shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 83 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 14½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches.

Left Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [51 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 42 pattern rows from chart C, reading odd and even rows as on back and joining in a separate ball of G for each bird.
Remember that the mother duck is in white (W) and the duckling in Lemon (L) as before. The mother duck's beak is knitted in, rather than embroidered afterwards.

When the 42 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M only until front measures 7 inches.

Here shape front edge:
Next row (right side facing): Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Work 3 rows straight.

Continue thus, decreasing 1 stitch at front edge on the next and every following 4th row. Meanwhile, when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 5 knit rows, after which you keep the armhole edge straight.
Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row as before until 24 sts remain.

Work straight until front matches back.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Right Front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.
When working pattern from chart, read rows backwards, so that ducks will face each other at front edges, that is, read odd rows knit from left to right and even rows purl from right to left.
[Editor's Note: In the pdf file of the charts I have provided a copy of Chart C in reverse in case you find that easier to work from.]

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 52 sts and work 2 inches in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th row until there are 74 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 11½ inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 46 sts remain, and then at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front Borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With No. 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 9 sts and work a strip in k1, p1 rib, (rows on the right side having a k1 at each end), long enough to go up right front, round back of neck and down left
front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along, and make 5 buttonholes in right border, first to come about ¼ inch from lower edge, and the 5th at the beginning of the front slope with the remainder at equal intervals in between.
Mark the position of the buttons on the left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row casting on 2 over those cast off.

Jumper Front:

**
Begin by winding 3 balls each of G and L.
With No 12 needles and M, cast on 96 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 sts on last row [98 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Continue in stocking stitch and work 26 pattern rows from chart A, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right. Join in separate balls of and G and L wools for each duckling.

When the 26 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M until front measures 9 inches. Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following knit row until 80 sts
remain. **

Work straight until front measures 12½ inches. Then, with right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row (right side facing): K30, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 31 sts , decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 27 sts remain. Then decrease on every alternate row
until 24 sts remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 14 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).
With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches on the spare needle. Slip the centre 16 sts on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 32 sts, k2tog knit to end. [31 sts]

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Jumper Back

Work as for front from ** to ** . [80 sts]

Work straight over all stitches until back measures 11½ inches.
Here divide for back opening: -

Next row (right side facing): K42, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: K4, purl to end. NEXT Row:
Next row: Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to end.
Continue straight on these 42 sts, keeping 4 sts at centre back in garter stitch throughout and the remainder in stocking stitch
and at the same time make 3 buttonholes up opening (the 4th comes in neckband later) - first to come in next row and the remaining 2 at ¾ inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, knit to last 3 sts, wool forward, k2tog, k1.

When back measures same as front, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge); leave remaining 18 sts on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 38 sts, cast on 4 sts for underlap.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl to the last 4 sts, k4.

Finish to correspond with right shoulder, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 63 sts, and work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 71 sts.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve measures 2¾ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 47 sts remain, and then decrease at each end of every row until 19 sts
remain.

Cast off.

Jumper Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and M, pick up and knit 87 sts all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work inch k1/p1 rib, making 4th buttonhole after inch has been done and remembering to keep 4 sts at each end in garter stitch as before.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Embroider eyes with single brown detached chain stitch as indicated
on Chart; embroider beaks in gold slanting satin stitch shapes as indicated by lines on chart. Finally, indicate water round feet with a few straight stitches of varying lengths in white.

Cardigan: embroider eyes and beaks of ducklings as for jumper.
Sew on buttons.
Press all Seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:
8 oz Powder Blue (main shade).
½ oz ball in Lemon; small balls (less than ½ oz each) of 3 ply in Gold and White.
Scraps of brown for eyes.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Four small buttons for jersey and 5 larger ones for cardigan.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches on No 11 (3mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 25 ins; on cardigan, 26 ins;
length from top of shoulders: on jumper, 14 ins; on cardigan 14½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2¾ ins and 11½ inches.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. You can find some nice 3 plies available to meet the tension specified.
Just for the lemon colour used for the ducklings the specified yarn was Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora which would make a nice effect if you could find some suitable fluffy 3 or 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2015

Tweed Cardigan Coat

TweedCoat1.jpg

Wonderfully stylish mid-1950s tweed coat-style cardigan. I had to leave the background in the photo - indicating knitwear alla moda - and an exotic photo-shoot.

"Double-knitting and bouclet are worked together to produce this attractive tweed-knit fabric."

The style is simple enough to knit (all boxy shapes) and one feels could be adapted to larger sizes. However the real issue here will be choosing an appropriate yarn; the pattern indicates it is mostly knitted in a bouclé yarn knitted double and yet the resulting tension seems relatively fine (over the pattern stitch).

Instructions.

The DK is used singly throughout and the Bouclet is used double with either one ball of white together with one ball of black or two balls of black, as stated in the pattern instructions.

Back

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 142 sts fairly loosely and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in double boucle.
2nd row: Knit in double boucle.
3rd row: Join in DK.
* Slip 2 purlways, k3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: * Slip 2 purlways, p3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
5th row: As first row
6th row: As first row.
7th row: * k2 in DK, slip 3 purlways; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2 in DK.
8th row: * p2 DK; slip 3 purlways: repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2 DK.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ inches at centre. Place a coloured thread at each end of the row here to mark the start of the armholes as no actual shaping is done.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 24½ inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next 10 rows; cast off remainder.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet, cast on 32 sts and work about 2½, inches straight in pattern, ending with a row on the wrong side; leave sts on a spare needle. Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 82 sts and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with same pattern row as the pocket lining. Here start pocket opening.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts; (slip last 67 sts on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being); pattern across 32 sts of one of the pocket linings [47 sts]

Work 5½ inches straight in pattern on these 47 stitches, ending with a row on the right side of the work.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 32 fairly loosely and pattern to end; leave these 15 sts on a second spare needle or a needle holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining 67 sts.
Continue straight in pattern on these 67 sts for 5½ inches ending with same pattern row as the 15 sts on the spare needle.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts on spare needle, then on to the same needle pattern across the last 67 sts [82 sts]

Continue straight in pattern over all stitches until front matches back to
start of armholes. Thread a coloured marker as before. Continue straight in pattern until front measures 22 inches.
With wrong side facing, continue in pattern and shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next, and every following row, 32 times.

Then keep the neck edge straight, and at the same time, when front
matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge).

Right Front:

Work as for the left, reversing all shapings and making
5 buttonholes up the front edge. The first to come about 3 inches
from the lower edge, and the 5th about inch below front of neck shaping - the remainder evenly spaced between.
Mark the position of the buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, pattern 3, cast off 4, pattern to end.
On the next row pattern up to the cast off sts and cast on 4 over those cast off in previous row; pattern to end.

For the right front, your 1st row of the pocket shaping will read:

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 67 sts and slip on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being. With right side
facing, pattern across 32 sts of the remaining pocket lining, then pattern
across 15 sts from main work. [47 sts]

Finish to correspond with left front reversing the instructions in line with the above.

Sleeves:

With No 12 needles and double black bouclet, cast on 62 sts and work 1½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Break off 1 ball of black and join in 1 ball of white bouclet.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 136 sts , taking extra the extra sts into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 15½ inches.

Cast off right across fairly loosely.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, begin at right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 42 sts across back of neck, * turn and rib back, picking up and purling 4 sts from side of neck at end of row; turn and rib back, picking up and knitting 4 sts from
side of neck at end of row; repeat from * 6 times more. [98 sts]

Rib to end of row; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert sleeves neatly between markers.

Face both front edges on wrong side with ribbon, turning under 1 stitch of the knitting as you do so and taking care not to stretch the knitting. Cut holes in the ribbon to correspond with those in the knitting, then oversew around the holes with matching sewing cotton.

The original pattern intended for you to cover button moulds with rounds of single black bouclet in double crochet, drawing crochet
together at back of button. Otherwise use purchased buttons of an appropriate size.
Sew on buttons and press studs - one at neck, the other at lower edge.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, pick up and knit 26 sts down front piece of each pocket slit.
Cast off.
Catch down to main work at corners; catch down pocket linings.

Press all seams.

Materials

Double Knitting: 11 ozs in white;
Bouclet yarn: 13 ozs in black and 11 ozs white.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Five large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

2 press fasteners

11 yards 2 inch wide black ribbon.

Tension

24 stitches to 4 inches over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 35-37 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 25 inches; sleeve seam: 15½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The striking style of the coat is created using the yarn double with black and white together to create a tweed effect.
It is possible to get fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting. You could also substitute with a slightly fluffy yarn - Phildar and Pingouin used to do a slightly fuzzy 4 ply.

If you hate knitting double you might find a loopy tweed DK or worsted yarn which knits to the right tension. But you will need to find it in a solid version to match (because some parts of the pattern are knitted in black bouclet alone) - as well as the toning DK smooth yarn.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. The number of ounces of an obsolete yarn with no yardage provided is of little help.

Whatever you choose - knit a swatch!

TweedCoat2.jpg

July 2014

Sun Jersey or Sun Top

SunJersey3a.jpg

By the sea in 1950 - a quick (ish) knit in fine yarn.
"This intriguing affair is knitted short for a sun top or as long as you like for a jumper.
For evening wear decorate the lattice ribs of the sun-ray yoke with sequins or beads.
"

Instructions.

These instructions are for a sun top - which is essentially a cropped top ending at the waist, and a "jersey" version which is slightly longer. In both versions the front and back are knitted separately in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl) and then joined to form a patterned yoke with intergral cap sleeve.

Sun Jersey Front

With No 11 needles cast on 112 stitches and work 16 rows in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping waist as follows:-
Next row: k2tog, k26, (k2tog) twice, k48, (k2tog) twice, k26, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k24, (k2tog) twice, k46, (k2tog) twice, k24, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k22, (k2tog) twice, k44, (k2tog) twice, k22, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k20, (k2tog) twice, k42, (k2tog) twice, k20, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row. [88 sts]
Purl one row.

Change to No 13 needles and work 1½ inches straight, ending with a purl row.

Change back to No 11 needles.

Next row: increase in 1st stitch, k27, increase in each of next 2 sts, k28, increase in each of next 2 sts, k27, increase in last stitch. [94 sts]
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 114 stitches.
Purl one row.

** With right side facing, divide for yoke as follows:-

Next row: k53; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 53 sts, working 3 more increasings at the side edge on every 6th row as before; then, keeping this edge straight, at the same time start to shape the yoke by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 7 purl rows, then 2 at beginning of following 4 purl rows.
[20 sts]

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row; then k2tog at this edge on next 6 knit rows, while at the same time continuing to shape the neck by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 purl rows and then p2tog at the beginning of the following 4 purl rows.

Fasten off.

Return to remaining stitches and slip centre 8 sts on a spare needle or safety pin.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 53 sts and work to correspond with first shoulder, reversing all shapings.

Sun Jersey Back

Work exactly as for front until there are 114 sts, then continue in stocking stitch, increasing at side edges on every 6th row as before until there are 118 sts.
Purl one row.

** With right side facing, divide for yoke as follows:-

Next row: k55; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 55 sts, working 1 more increase at side edge as before, then keep this edge straight, and at the same time shape yoke by casting off 4 sts. at beginning of next 5 purl rows. [36 sts]

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next row; then k2tog at this edge on next 7 knit rows, while at the same time continuing to shape the neck by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 10 purl rows.

Fasten off.

Return to remaining stitches and slip centre 8 sts on a spare needle or safety pin.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 55 sts and work to correspond with first back shoulder, reversing all shapings.

Yoke

Back: With No 11 needles, cast on 32 sts, then with right side facing, on to this needle, pick up and knit 40 sts down right side of back, k8 from spare needle, pick up and knit 41 sts up left back.
Turn. (wrong side now facing)
Cast on 32 sts.
Next row: Purl across 153 stitches.

Now work in pattern thus:-

1st row (right side facing): k3; * wfd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k6; repeat from * ending last repeat k3 instead of k6.
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit.
4th row: Purl.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Work 6 more rows.

Next row (decrease row on 3rd pattern row): k8, k2tog, * k7, k2tog; repeat from * to last 8 sts, k8. [137 sts]

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch in centre of each stocking stitch panel as laid out above on every following 8th row until 2 sts remain in each panel.
At the same time decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 15th and following 16th row, then keep shoulder edges straight [85 sts].

[Editor's note: This is one of those things that is easier to do with the knitting in front of you than to explain. Each decrease row reduces the number of sts by 16. So on the 7th row following your 4 initial pattern rows, you do your first set of decreases as above [137 sts]; your next decreases are on the 15th row where you also decrease one stitch at each end of the row as well as in the panels so this decreases 18 sts in the row [119 sts]; on the next 8th row you decrease 16 sts in the panels only [103 sts]; and finally on the next 8th row you decrease in the panels as well as each end - 18 sts [85 sts remain]. Note that you have to place your decreases in the stocking stitch panels by centering them by eye rather than counting.]

Now work straight until the yoke is 4 inches deep.
Change to No 13 needles and work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Castoff.

Front: With No. 11 needles, cast on 32 sts, then with right side facing, pick up and knit 54 sts. down left front, k8 from spare needle, pick up and knit 54 sts up right front.
Turn. (wrong side now facing)
Cast on 32 sts.
Next row: Purl across 180 stitches.

Finish exactly as for the back, but you will have 100 sts on needle at end of the decrease rows instead of 85.

[Editor's note: So - same sequence as on the back but this time each decrease row reduces the number of sts by 19. So on the 7th row following your 4 initial pattern rows, you do your first set of decreases using the same layout for the decrease row as given for the back [161 sts]; your next decreases are on the 15th row where you also decrease one stitch at each end of the row as well as in the panels so this decreases 21sts in the row [140 sts]; on the next 8th row you decrease 19 sts in the panels only [121 sts]; and finally on the next 8th row you decrease in the panels as well as each end - 21 sts - and voilà - 100 sts remain.]

Cropped Sun Top Front

With No 13 needles, cast on 102 sts and work 2½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and increase at each end of the 1st and every following 6th row until there are 114 sts.
Purl one row.

Now work as for Sun Jersey front from ** to end.

Cropped Sun Top Back

Work exactly as for front until there are 114 sts then continue in stocking stitch, increasing at side edges on every 6th row as before until there are 118 sts.
Purl one row.

Now work exactly as for the back of Sun Jersey from ** to end.

Cropped Sun Top Yoke

Work exactly as given for the Sun Jersey.

Making Up

Press pieces on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and shoulder seams.

Work a row of double crochet all round armholes and lower edge of the Jersey.
Thread shirring elastic through the ribbing of the Sun Top, and work double crochet round armholes.

Press seams.

Materials

6 ozs Patons Beehive Bouclet for sun jersey; 4 ozs for sun-top.

[Editor's note: When substituting with modern fibres you may need more than stated unless your chosen yarn has a particularly good yardage.]

One pair each
No 13 (2¼mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.
One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Shirring elastic for the sun top.

Tension

30sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

To fit 32-34 inch chest; length from top of shoulders, on jumper 19½ inches; on sun-top 13 inches.

Abbreviations

wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

The tension for this yarn implies it knits approximately as a 4 ply. Susan Crawford's Excelana 4 ply or Excelite 3ply yarn might work well here - or a fine cotton. Do check your tension with a swatch.

Using a slightly thicker yarn (I emphasis slightly) or a larger needle size might work well to increase the size range while still keeping the pattern in proportion. As usual do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this. An apparent slight move in tension from 30 sts to 28 sts for 4 inches potentially increases the chest size from 32-34 inches as stated in the pattern up to 36½ inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SunJersey2.jpg

February 2014

Cross Season Jumper

CrossSeason1.jpg CrossSeason2.jpg

I thought this looked like highly wearable jumper with a very flattering neckline. From the picture it looks like it has bracelet length sleeves - which I very much favour - but the instructions imply they are full length; I like the look of the pushed-up sleeves in the photo so much that I think I would knit them shorter. There is shaping through the body but this could be omitted - you would need to cast on 106 (112) instead of 94 (100) and knit straight to the armhole.

The pattern suggests using a violet colour but I envisioned it in chartreuse.

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

‡‡

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 94 (100) stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k10, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, k10.

2nd row: p10, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, p10.

3rd row: p10, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, p10.

4th row: k10, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, k10.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

CrossSeason3.jpg

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 4 inches.
With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 st at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 106 (112) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 14½ (15) inches.

‡‡

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5(5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate rows until 86 (90) stitches remain.
Work straight until back measure 22½ (23) inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of next 4 rows, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 32 (34) stitches.

Front

Work as back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

With right side facing, shape armholes and divide for neck as follows:

Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern 47 (50).
Turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end, taking the 2 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [49 (52) sts]

Continue shaping armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on next and following 4 (5) alternate rows. [44 (46) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front opening measures 2 inches.

With wrong side facing, cast on 10 sts for collar, pattern to end, taking the 10 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [54 (56) sts]

Work straight until outside edge of collar measures 2 inches from the 10 cast-on stitches.
With wrong side facing, cast on a further 5 sts, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Continue straight on the remaining 32 (33) stitches for 2½ inches.
Cast off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 54 (57) sts, pattern to end.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 st at armhole edge on following 5 (6) alernate rows. [44 (46) sts].

Finish to correspond with first shoulder, with reversed shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 (50) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 2(3) sts evenly across last row.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern across as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, k6.

2nd row: p6, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, p6.

3rd row: p6, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, p6.

4th row: k6, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, k6.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern increasing 1 stitch at end of next and every following 8th row until there are 76 (79) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (17) inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 (4) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternat row until 30 (37) sts remain, then at each end of every row untl 14 (15) sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the ridge pattern.
Join collar at centre back neatly with a flat edge-to-edge seam.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew collar neatly along back of neck.
Catch down 2 cast-on stitches at start of neck opening on wrong side.
Press all seams.

Materials

20 (22) ozs. Patons Double Knitting, in Violet.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 35-36 (37-38) inches; length from top of shoulders, 22½ (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 16½ (17) ins.

Abbreviations

Cross2K: knit into back of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Cross2P: purl into front of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2013

Fireside Slippers

FiresideSlippers.jpg

A lovely old-fashioned pair of knitted slippers. Make them using a luxury yarn in a striking colour for a quickly knitted Christmas gift.

Instructions

Instructions in 3 sizes, each size separated by forward slash (/).

Both slippers are worked alike.

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 90/95/100 stitches and work 12 rows in garter stitch (that is: every row knitted).

Change to pattern as follows:

1st row: k4, * p2, k3; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p2, k4.
2nd row: k1, p3, * p3, k2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p3, k1.

3rd row: k1, * wfwd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, wrn, p2, * to last 4 stitches, wfwd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, wrn, k1.
4th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more, then rows 1-3 inclusive again: 19 pattern rows.

Work 5 rows in garter stitch.

Cast off.

Make a second slipper in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.

Fold foot pieces in half and join centre back and foot seams neatly with a flat seam.

Thread ties through holes made in 19th row of the patterning.
You can find information from Sirdar on making ties here.

Press seams.

Note:
You may like to cover the soles of the slippers with a non-slip material such as a washable non-slip liner available in limited colours from (for example) Wilkinsons in the UK.

Materials

3/3/3oz Double Knitting yarn.

One pair each No 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

22 stitches by 30rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 4mm needles

Size matters

To fit 3 sizes
small/medium/large.

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


....so.... speaking of quickly knitted gifts....

An extra Christmas gift just for you. Don't bother to thank me - it's priceless I think you'll agree.
Perfect if you are thinking of elf-themed fancy dress this Christmas - and I can recommend that you use any left-over felt to make a matching elfish pointy collar.

FiresideSlippers.jpg

They miss out the key instruction at the end of the making up section .... "Do not wear".
Joking apart, this method of threading ribbon or fabric strips through a crocheted mesh base is a good technique for creating an interesting textured fabric to work with. I have seen it used to good effect making, for example, an evening clutch bag, using more luxurious starting materials.

November 2013

Traditional Cosy Set

TraditionalCosySet.jpg

The archetypal cosy design (maybe with a few too many pom-poms for historical verisimilitude but who's counting?). And - no idea why the British are quite so obsessed with hats for their eggs, but it does seem that there is always a matching egg cosy* to complete the set.

* I think with very fine wool and a bit of adaptation these could become knitted hats for the Big Knit - a campaign from Innocent Smoothies, who are again putting knitted hats on their bottles this year in aid of Age UK (helping older folk face the winter). The advertising says "knit a hat this November" however unfortunately the deadline for knitting is past as the campaign aims to have the hats in place during November - so maybe next year....
However, you can still join in by designing your own virtual hat and sharing on Facebook (10p donation from Innocent), or by buying a smoothie with a hat (25p donation by Innocent), or with a direct donation. Have a look on their website - there are free mini-hat patterns!

Instructions

The pleats are formed by each colour being drawn up across the back of the colour just used and keeping all the strands to the wrong side of the work throughout.

Tea Cosy (make 2 pieces)

With No 8 needles and light colour (L), cast on 98sts and knit 5 rows.

Join in Dark colour (D) and proceed in pattern as follows:

1st row: k1L, k6D; * k7L, k7D; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k6L, k1D.
[Editor's note: Remember you are pulling the unused colour across the back of the knitting to draw up the pleats as you work - this is the reverse of the effect you are usually trying to achieve when you strand colours across the back.]
2nd row: k1D, k6L; * k7D, k7L; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k6D, k1L.
3rd-6th rows: Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
7th row: k1D, k6L; * k7D, k7L; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k6D, k1L.
8th row: k1L, k6D; * k7L, k7D; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k6L, k1D.
9th-12th rows: Repeat 7th and 8th rows twice.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows until work measures 6 inches from beginning finishing at the end of 2nd row.

Shape top as follows:
1st row: k2togL, k3D, k2togD, * k2togL, k3L, k2togL, k2togD, k3D, k2tog.D; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k2togL, k3L, k2togD

2nd row: klD, k4L, * k5D, k5L; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k4D, k1L.
3rd row: k2togL, k1D, k2togD, * k2togL, k1L, k2togL, k2tog.D, klD, k2togD; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2togL, k1L, k2togD.
4th row: klD, k2L, * k3D, k3L; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2D, k1L.
5th row: k2togL, k1D, * k2togL, k1L,k2tog.D, klD; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2togL, k1D.
6th row: klD, k1L, * k2D, k2L; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1D, k1L.
7th row: (k2togL) twice, * k2tog.D, k2togL; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, (k2togD) twice.

Break off wool, thread end of Light colour through the remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Make another piece in same manner.

To Make Up the Tea Cosy

Stitch side and top seams leaving openings for handle and spout.
Using Light colour make make 3 pom-poms and attach to top of cosy. With 2 strands of Dark, crochet a chain and arrange loops on top of cosy as in photograph.


Egg Cosy (make 1 piece)

With No 10 needles and light colour (L) in 3 ply, cast on 72sts and knit 3 rows.

Join in Dark colour (D) and proceed in pattern as follows:

1st row: k1L, k5D; * k6L, k6D; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k5L, k1D.
[Editor's note: Remember you are pulling the unused colour across the back of the knitting to draw up the pleats as you work - this is the reverse of the effect you are usually trying to achieve when you strand colours across the back.]
2nd row: k1D, k5L; * k6D, k6L; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k5D, k1L.
3rd-4th rows: Repeat 1st and 2nd rows.
5th row: k1D, k56L; * k6D, k6L; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k5D, k1L.
6th row: k1L, k5D; * k6L, k6D; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k5L, k1D.
7th-8th rows: Repeat 5th and 6th rows.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows until work measures 2¾ inches from beginning finishing at the end of 2nd row.

Shape top as follows:
1st row: k1L, k2togD, k3D, * k2togL, k4L, k2togD, k4D; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k2togL, k3L, k1D

Work from to as on Tea Cosy.

To Make Up the Egg Cosy

Stitch side seam.
Using Light colour make a pom-pom and attach to top of cosy. With 2 strands of Dark, crochet a chain and arrange loops on top of cosy as in photograph.

Materials

Tea Cosy: 3oz light colour (L) and 2oz dark (D) Double Knitting Yarn

Egg Cosy: 1oz light colour (L) and 1oz dark (D) 3ply yarn

A pair of No 8 (4mm) needles for the tea cosy and No 10 (3¼mm) needles for the egg cosy plus crochet hook.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins for the tea cosy and
30sts x 38 rows to 4 ins for the egg cosy over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit "a large sized teapot".
[Editor's note: Egg cosy size not specified!]

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

For information on making pom-poms
click here
to see a previous entry on this site.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

CherryCosy.jpg

October 2013

Fancy Rib Jacket

FancyRibJacket.jpg

This is a lovely 1950s Autumn jacket which is defined as "chunky" though this means "not fine" in modern parlance, as the wool weight is a pretty standard double knitting.
I love this style and always meant to make for myself but have not yet done so - hence it is untested, and the original instructions are available in only one size. The instructions are not intended for a beginner - you need to keep your eye on right and wrong sides, and preserving the button band stitches - but having said that, I think it is fairly clearly explained.

Instructions.

Fancy rib pattern worked as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

These 2 rows form pattern.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 90 stitches loosely and work 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge all along

[Editor's note: Though not clear in the photo, it seems the back of the jacket is knitted plain up to the armholes, whereas the fronts have the pattern over the pockets as well.]

Next row: Purl, increasing 3 sts, evenly across the row [93 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7 inches from lower edge.

With right side facing continue in stocking-stitch, shaping waist as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k26, k2tog, k29; sl1, k1, psso; k26; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: k2tog, k25, k2tog, k27; sl1, k1, psso; k25; k2tog. [81 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing continue shaping as follows:
Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k25; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k29; increase 1 as before; k25; increase in last stitch [85 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k26; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k31; increase 1 as before; k26; increase in last stitch [89 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k27; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k33; increase 1 as before; k27; increase in last stitch [93 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k28; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k35; increase 1 as before; k28; increase in last stitch [97 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch [99 sts]
Work straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and the following 3 alternate rows. [79 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): P9; * purl twice in next stitch, p6; repeat from * to end [89 sts]

Next row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. [147 sts]

With wrong side facing. change to fancy rib pattern, starting with 1st pattern row and work straight until back measure 23½ inches down centre ending with 1st pattern row [89 sts]
With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib over all sts, and shape shoulders by casting off 9 sts at beginning of next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 35 stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 26 sts and work 6 inches in stocking stitch ending with a knit row.
Leave these sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make second pocket in the same way.

Left Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): purl to last 23 sts; k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Change to pattern with button border in stocking stitch and remainder in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): p23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 7 inches, ending with 1st pattern row [67 sts]
With right side facing, change to stocking stitch, inserting pocket as follows:

Next row: K5; increase 1, k4, cast off 26, k20 sl1 purlways, k11.

Next row: P32, pur1 across one set of 26 pocket stitches in place of those cast off; p10 [68 sts]


With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch slipping the centre stitch in border on right side rows throughout, and shape for waist as follows:

Next row: K2tog, k27. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k26. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k25. k2tog, knit to end. [62 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing, continue shaping as follows:

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 25, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 26, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 27, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 28, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to end [71 sts]

Work straight until front measures same as back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 4 alternate rows [61 sts]

Next row: Purl.

Next row: * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11. [85 sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in fancy rib pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): P23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2tog, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Continue decreasing thus inside the 23 border sts on the following 10 alternate rows. Pattern back (1st pattern row). [50sts]

Work a few rows straight in pattern, until back measures same as front ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib keeping stocking-stitch border as before, and shape shoulder by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows - armhole edge.

Leave remaining 23 sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11, purl to end.

Change to pattern as follows (button border in stocking stitch as before):

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 25sts; k2, p23.
2nd row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11; * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2sts; p2.

Repeat these 2 rows for 1½ inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, make double buttonhole in next 2 rows as follows: k4, cast off 3, k4, sl1, k4, cast off 3, k4, work to end and back, casting on 3 sts over those cast off

Finish as for left front reversing all shapings, making another 5 double buttonholes as above at 3-inch intervals.

Your pocket row will read:
k11, sl1, k20, cast off 26, k4, increase 1, k5.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 sts loosely and work 5 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking-stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at end of 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 78 sts.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 19½ inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 40 sts remain; then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press stocking-stitch parts only under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Turn under 2½ inches round each sleeve and slip-hem loosely on wrong side.
Catch down pocket linings to main work.

Now with No 8 needles, k23 border sts. from spare needle at top of right front and work straight on these sts, slipping centre stitch as before until border fits to centre back of neck. Cast off.
Work left front 23 border sts in the same way; join borders at centre back and sew to neck edge.
Turn under half the border sts up to the slipped stitch all round and slip-hem on wrong side.

Oversew round double buttonholes.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

20 ozs Patons Moorland Double Knitting in Cinnamon.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) "Beehive" needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

This rib pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust: 35-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23½ ins; sleeve seam 17 ins.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase.

Abbreviations

Increase 1: by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, according to pattern instructions - or - Increase in next stitch: by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
p3tog: (decrease) purl 3 sts together.

wrn: wool round needle

sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A word on the wool.

Patons Moorland is a double knitting weight yarn which knitted to a fairly standard DK tension.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2013

Pretty bolero for a toddler

PrettyBolero.jpg

The bolero as such a popular wardrobe accessory for women in the 1950s - it went with all those off-the-shoulder/strapless little numbers (see footnote **) which was the only way to make them respectable day-wear.
This toddler adaptation with its cute puffy sleeves was clearly intended for a little girl.

Instructions

The instructions are for two sizes - the larger size is given in bold blue in curly brackets thus: "Intended to fit 1{2} year old.".
Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No.10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 70 {76} sts and work straight in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until back measures 2¼ {} inches.

With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following alternate row until 58{64} sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 5¾ {} inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 {9} sts. at beginning of next 4 rows. Cast off remaining 26 {28} sts. loosely.

Left front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 18 {21} sts and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping the front edge by increasing 1 stitch at the end of the next row, then at this edge on every following row until there are 27 {30} sts.
Work straight until front matches back at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following alternate row until 21 {24} sts. remain.
Work 4 rows straight.
With wrong side facing, start to shape front edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, then at this edge on every following 3rd row until 16 {18} sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 {9} sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (the armhole edge).

Right front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 43 {43} sts and purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and increase 21 sts on next row thus:
k1, * increase in next stitch, k1; repeat from * to end. [64 {64} sts].
Work straight until sleeve measures 1¾ inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 sts remain.

Next row (right side facing): k2tog, across entire row.
Next row: p1, * p2tog; repeat from * to end.
Cast off remaining 10 sts.

Borders

Join shoulder seams.

Main border: With No. 12 needles and contrast yarn C, cast on 7 sts and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Using contrast C, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: k1, p1, k3, p1, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row.
4th row: as 2nd row.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: k1, p1, k1; now join in M and make bobble by working (k1, p1, k1, p1) all into next stitch; now slip 2nd, 3rd and 4th sts over 1st and off needle; leave M yarn hanging,and pick up the contrast yarn C, k1, p1, k1.
Twist yarns at back of work when changing colour to avoid a hole and carry M loosely up back of work.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until strip fits all round bolero edge from centre back of neck. Cast off.

Pin in position as you go along

Sleeve Borders: In the same way work a strip in the pattern to fit all round each sleeve edge.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts gently on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew main border in position, joining edges at back of neck.
Sew on sleeve borders, joining ends in line with sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 {2} ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in main shade (Beau Blue) and 1{1} oz in white.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Width all round at underarm. 18 {20} inches; length from top of shoulders, 6½ {7} ins; sleeve seam, 2½ {} ins.

A word on the wool.

I used some vintage 3 ply yarn which had no label (but I believe is wool) for the main shade, and some Patons pure wool 3ply in white for the contrast.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


**Footnote: Have you seen Dana Wynter's outfit at the start of Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1956)?? Here - take a peek - it did have a bolero but she immediately removed it on entering the room.

BoleroDress.jpg

All this for a visit to the dentist - ok,ok, he was her old boyfriend whom she was trying to impress....

May 2013

Mock Cable Cardigan

MockCableMay1957.jpg

Doesn't this picture have a wonderful fresh spring feel? As if summer is just around the corner. It looks just right with a summer dress, to fling casually over the shoulders for those cooler English summer breezes - or for a more formal look - buttoned up with a scarf plus a narrow tweed skirt (and possibly gloves!) to complete the outfit (see photo at the end).
This design has been calling to me for quite some time but as usual I have yet to find the time to try it out. So here it is untested.
"raglan armholes and and firm ribbed bands for this useful cardigan in white to go with everything"

Instructions.

Figures in bold blue given in brackets, refer to the larger size; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Back

With No 13 needles cast on 123 (133) stitches and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, starting the first row, k1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern thus:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p2; repeat from * to last stitch 3 sts, k3.
3rd row: * p3, k2tog, but do not slip these stitches off the needle, now knit into 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
4th row: as 2nd row

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 12½ (13) inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 103 (113) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulders as follows:
Cast off 3 (4) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows, and 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows.
Cast off remaining 43 stitches.

Left Front

Left. With No 13 needles, cast on 58 (63) sts and work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib as before.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back. Work straight until front matches back at side edge up to the armholes.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on every following alternate row until 48 (53) stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 20 (20½)inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Now with right side facing, shape shoulder and neck edge as follows:

Next row (armhole edge): cast off 3 (4) stitches; pattern to end.
Next row (neck edge): cast off 3 (3) stitches; pattern to end.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 15 (15) rows, and at the same time shape at the shoulder edge by casting off 3 (4) stitches; at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, then 3 (3) stitches at the beginning of the following 5 alternate rows.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 13 needles, cast on 59 (59) sts, and work 2½ inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 4sts evenly across on last row. [63 (63) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and work pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row, until there are 97 (97) sts, taking the eextra stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 16 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

**
Next row: p3 slip1, k1, psso; pattern to the last 5 sts, k2tog, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
Next row: p3, k1, pattern to the last 4 sts, k1, p3.
Next row: k3, p1, pattern to the last 4 sts, p1, k3.
**

Repeat from ** to ** 3(5) times more: [85 (81) sts]
Now continue to decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 border stitches, as before, at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 5(5) stitches remain.
Knit back.

Next row(right side facing): p2, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p1, p2tog, p1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: p3tog.
Fasten off.

Front Borders and Neckband

Pin sleeves into armholes - top of sleeve fits right across shoulders to neck edge. Sew carefully in position.

Front Borders: With No 13 needles, cast on 13 stitches and work a strip in k1/p1 rib to go up right front, round back of neck, and down left front.
Make 8 buttonholes up right front - first one to come ½ inch from lower edge, 8th about ½ inch below neck shaping, and remainder to be evenly spaced between.
To make a buttonhole: With right side facing, rib 5, cast off 3, rib 5, turn; rib 5. cast on 3, rib 5.

Sew border strip in position as you go along.
To turn corner at start of neck shaping on right front, work as follows: with right side facing, rib to last 3 sts., turn, rib back;
rib to last 6 stitches, turn, rib back;
rib to last 9 stitches, turn, rib back.
[Editor's note: You are working short rows to curve the knitting.]
Continue straight in rib over all stitches to start of neck shaping on left front, and then, with right side facing, turn corner in the same way.
Continue in rib until strip fits down left front.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts only very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.
Press all side seams.

Materials

14 (15) ozs. Patons Quickerknit Botany Patonised in white.

A pair each of Nos
13 (2¼mm) and 9 (3¾mm) "Beehive" needles.

8 white pearl buttons.

Tension

This cable pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 26sts x 34 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 2 sizes to fit bust:
33-35 (36-37) inches;
length from top of shoulders, 22 (22½) ins; and sleeve seam, 16 (16) inches.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase. Using a DK yarn with 4mm needles might increase the size to a range of 39-44 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool.

Yarns called "quick knit" "quickerknit" and such variations evolved as a compromise for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply.

These days, there are quite a few yarns that might have a suitably similar tension as "light weight" double knits.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino ( 125m per 50g ball) is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge. If I were going to knit this cardigan, this is what I would use.

BUT - how much you might need is open to question. Most of the baby quick-knits were blended or completely synthetic and thus probably had a better yardage than pure wools. The name of the original yarn "Botany" implies it might have been a pure wool but who knows what "Patonised" implied and I have no idea of the yardage.
15oz is about 420g - so 9 x 50g balls sounds plausible for a medium sized cardigan with a textured stitch - but better to buy too much than too little.

The French manufacturer Phildar has traditionally offered ranges in this kind of yarn weight, but in practical wool/synthetic blends, currently for example: Laine Merino Alpaga, Phildar Partner 3.5, Fil Oxygene - all coming in at around 110-130m per 50g equivalent.

Bergere de France is a manufacturer whose yarns I know little of but they seem to have at least two suitable offerings eg: Annecy, Coton Fifty.

It was a bit of a surprise to me to find that I can't find much in the way of baby yarns with this designation any more.
Patons Quickerknit Baby is no more - though they currently produce Patons Beehive Baby Sport, which seems to be a kind of equivalent; Sirdar Snuggly Quick Knit is discontinued - relatively recently it seems. Both the above are acrylic and nylon mixes with a yardage of about 180m to 50g.

MockCable-2a.jpg

April 2013

Easter Baby Bonnet

EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg

This looks like a little Victorian cherub, though the pattern is much later. It uses a combination of smooth and fluffy 4 ply yarns in a relatively simple crochet motif.
I think the bonnet is particularly cute.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.


Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2013

Heirloom shawl

HeirloomShawlC.jpg

A lace baby shawl made in a 3 ply fingering weight, which makes it a bit more feasible to contemplate as a viable project than the traditional 2 ply, while yet remaining fine and lacey. Added to that, it is made up in sections, rather than a single piece which makes it easier to handle, with all the decreasing lace stitches.

Instructions

The shawl is made in 5 pieces: first a centre square, and then 4 mitred borders that are sewn on each side of the centre.

Centre Square

With No 8 needles, cast on 162 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch), sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: k1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch); repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows until work measures 21 inches.
Cast off.

Borders (make 4)

With No 9 needles, cast on 206 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: knit.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows twice more [200 sts].

Change to pattern as follows:-

1st row: p2tog, p4, k2tog, wrn, p2, * (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k 1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2, p2tog
2nd row: k 5, p2, k2, * p7, (k1, p3)twice, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k3.
3rd row: p2tog, p3, wfd, SL1, k1, psso, p2, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p1, p2tog.
4th row: k 4, p2, k2, * p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k2.
5th row: p2tog, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, ,k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; rep, from * 5 times more, p2tog.
6th row: k 3, p2, k 2, * p9, k l, (p1,k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
7th row: p2tog, p1, * wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p1, p2tog.
8th row: k2, p2, k2, * p11, k1, p11, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
9th row:
p2tog, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 5 times more, p2tog.
10th row: k1, p2, * k2, p25, k2, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
11th row: k2tog, k1, * p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3,
wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, k l, k2tog.
12th row: * p2, k2, p6, k1, p11, k1, p6, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2.
13th row: k2tog, * p2, (k1, wlfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog
14th row: * p1, k2, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, p7, k2, p1; repeat from * to end.
15th row: p2tog, p1, * k1, wfd, k 3, wfd., kl, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, kl, pl, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, kI, psso, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, pl, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p1, p2tog
16th row: * k 2, p8, k1, (p2, kl) twice, p8, k2, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, p8, k1,(p2, k1) twice, p8, k2.
17th row: p2tog, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, at. 1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2tog.
18th row: k1, * p9, k1,(p1, k1) twice, p9, k2,
p2, k2; repeat from * 4 times more, p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k1.
19th row: k2tog, wfd., k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * p1, sl1, k2tog,
psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k2tog.
20th row: p11, * k 1, p11, k 2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, p11.
21st row: k2tog, k8, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k9; repeat from * 4 times more, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k8, k2tog.
22nd row: p10, * p13, k2, p2, k2, p12; repeat from * 4 times more, p11.
23rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, * k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd., k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog.
24th row: p15, * k l, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k1, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, p4.
25th row: k2tog, k7, p1, * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k7, k 2tog.
26th row: p8, k1, * p3, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k1, p3, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p8.
27th row: k2tog, k6, p1, * k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1. p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k6, k2tog.
28th row: p7, k1, * p2, k1, p8, k2, p2, k2,
p8, k1, p2, kl; repeat from * ending p7.
29th row: k2tog, k5, p1, * k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, pl; repeat from * 4 times more, k5, k2tog.
30th row: p6, k1, * p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p6.
31st row: k2tog, k4, p1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, s1, k2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k4, k2tog.
32nd row: p5, k1, * p11, k2, p2, k2, p11, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p5.
33rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd., sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog.
34th row: p17, * k2, p2, k2, p25; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p2, k2, p17.
35th row: k2tog, k3, * wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k l; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, k2tog.
36th row: p4, * p5, k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6 k1, p6; rep, from * 4 times more, p3.

Cast off 131 sts.

Make 3 more pieces the same.

To Make Up

Pin parts out and press under a damp cloth.
Join borders very neatly to centre square, then join corners of border. Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3 ply Patons Baby Wool.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

In stocking stitch: 26 stitches. and 34 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles.
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

32 inches square.

Abbreviations

wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.


sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).


k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

The original pattern calls for Patons "Beehive" which is no longer available but Patons do a range of 3 ply baby wools.

Patons Dreamtime Fairytale is 100% wool available in 6 pastel shades; wash at 30°; 50g ball, 230m/252 yards.

They also make Fairytale 3 ply (not "Dreamtime"), which is a mix of acrylic and nylon in white only. Maybe not so perfect for an heirloom shawl.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2012

Nursery Slippers

NurserySlippers.jpg

Toddler slippers for a quickly knitted Christmas gift. The top of each slipper is knitted, and is designed to be attached to a purchased leather sole. You could make your own out of leather (but be prepared to line it - perhaps with quilt batting and fabric, fleece fabric, or a shaped piece of knitting. If you design your own knitted sole you can make it non-slip by sewing on sole-shaped cut-outs from cushioned fabric ("slip-a-grip"); various brand options can be purchased on a roll from kitchen suppliers, or you can buy specialist sewing fabrics for this purpose.
Below I've added a great You Tube link for instructions on how to make your own non-slip soles.

Instructions

Both slippers are worked alike. The following special abbreviation is used throughout the pattern, making a wide ribbed cable.

Tie 5: Insert right-hand needle between 5th and 6th stitches from point of left-hand needle, draw loop through and place on point of left-hand needle, then k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.


Both slippers are worked alike,

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.
Break wool.

Slip first and last 6 stitches on safety-pins for heel.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the centre 33 stitches and with No 9 needles continue in pattern for instep as follows:-

1st row: p4, (rib 5, p5) twice, rib 5, p4.
2nd row: k4, (rib 5, k5) twice, rib 5, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

5th row: p4, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p.4.
6th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

11th row: p4, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p4.
12th row: as 2nd row.

These 12 rows form pattern.

Repeat, them once more, then rows 1-6 inclusive again.

Continue in pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: 27 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 15 stitches remain. Cast off.

Join side edges of ribbing to form back seam.

For the heel:
Place the two sets of 6 stitches on a No 11 needle. With No 9
needles and right side facing, work in reversed stocking-
stitch as follows:-

Next row: p twice in 1st Stitch, p to last stitch, p twice in last stitch.
Next row: knit. Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 26 stitches ending with a knit row. Cast off.

Finishing

Pin out patterned part and heel of each slipper and press on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Sew slanting side edges of heel piece along side edge of instep piece as far as they will go without stretching; press seams.
Join back seam.

Pin tops to slipper soles and sew firmly in position.

Materials

2oz Double Knitting yarn in Lipstck Red.

One pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

A pair of size 8 soles (about 25 or 26 european size).
[Editor's note: You can try a search for "knitted slipper soles". I came up with this one.

Tension

23 stitches by 31 rows to 4 inches over stocking stich on 3¾mm needles

Size matters

Designed "for a toddler" with some flexibility as to the size of sole chosen. For a larger slipper, experiment with thicker yarn and fit to a larger sole.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn recommended was a standard double knitting. Despite the tension being very slightly tighter than usual due to the 3¾mm needles used, I think a slightly heavier weight - an Aran weight perhaps - would be quite acceptable. A tighter fabric for slippers is probably more desirable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2012

Easter Bonnet

AliceBandBonnet3.jpg

This type of bonnet was very popular in the 1950s - at least it was much favoured by Paton and Baldwin, using their Fuzzy Wuzzy angora**. I think, following the 1940s roll, it went with the more modern shorter hairstyles, and was possibly the half-way house to what was essentially the demise of the hat for everyday wear. Anyway - I am sure they explored every possible variation on this basic style.

**Perhaps not the best marketing brand for today's knitters.... However, angora wool is very light weight and was sold in half ounce balls; this gives you the clue that it was relatively expensive, so a tiny little cap - or perhaps bolero - was ideally affordable. (And did I mention fluffy? even I - never allergic to anything - am prone to fits of sneezing when wearing angora).

Note that there are two versions of the bonnet for different yarn weights.

Instructions for the double knitting bonnet

Pattern stitch is worked over 6 rows:

1st row (right side facing): * p3, k3, p3; leave wool forward (wfd), k2tog; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, k3, p3.
2nd row: * k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
3rd row: * p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * to last 9 sts; p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.

[Editor's note: The above pattern repeat of 6 rows is as given in the original instructions. If you compare the photo below with my version, you will see the eyelet arrangement is slightly different between the two. I worked (k2tog, wrn) and then (wrn, k2tog) alternately on the right side rows; this does not fit with the 6 row repeat of the mock cables. I have not written out my resulting 12 row repeat for you, but if you want to do this it is quite simple to keep track of the two patterns as you knit, one having a 4 row repeat, and the other, a 6 row repeat. Knit to the correct number of rows overall, and make sure you keep it consistent when you get to the decrease rows. ]

AliceBandBonnet.jpg

To Make:

Cast on cast on 64sts using the knit cast-on method to give a loose edge. Work 9 rows in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), ending with a knit row. Now make the hem for the hair-band casing as follows:

Hem row (purl side facing, which is the right side of the work): Fold the hem so that the cast on edge is aligned at the back of the needle containing your working sts; * knit one stitch on the needle with one loop from the cast on edge; repeat from * to end.
Next row(wrong side facing) : knit.

Now commence the pattern - work the 6 pattern rows five times.

Start the shaping:

31st row (first shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k3, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [56sts]
32nd row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
33rd row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p2, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
34th row: as 32nd row.
35th row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
36th row: as 32nd row.

37th row (second shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [48sts]
38th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to last 11sts; p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
39th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wrn, p1, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
40th row: as 38th row.
41st row: p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k2tog, p1, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3.
42nd row: as 38th row.

43rd row (third shaping row): p3, k3, p3; * leave wfd, k3tog, k2, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 11sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3. [40sts]
44th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k1; * p4, k1; repeat from * twice more; p3, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.
45th row: p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; * k2tog, wfd, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso; repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3.
46th row: k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; purl to the last 9 sts; k3, p1, k1, p1, k3.

Next row: Cast off 9sts; knit to the last 9sts; cast off 9 and fasten off.
Thread a strand of wool through the remiaing sts, draw up and fasten off.

To Complete

Pin out and press the work lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join the cast-off edges together to form the centre back seam.

With the right side of the bonnet facing you, join the wool to one side edge, at the inner edge of the hem (ie do not crochet the ends of the hem together, as you need to thread your plastic hair band into it), and work one row of double crochet all around the neck edge, finishing atthe same position on the opposite side of the front. Draw the edge in slightly as you work.
Turn the work and and work 1dc into each dc of the preceding row.
Run 4 rows of elastic thread through the wrong side of the dc edging and draw up the threads to measure about 11 inches, or more if necessary.

Slip the hair band through the front casing, and then seam the short ends to close it off.

Sew in and neaten all ends.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs double knitting wool.

One pair of No 7 (4½mm) needles. One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

1½ yards elastic thread.

A plastic hair band.

Tension

21 sts and 29 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit "an average head".
[Editor's note: I suggest that the fit will mainly be controlled by the size of the purchased head band, although I note from the photos that the DK version seems to fit more snugly than the 3-ply.]

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: knit two stitches together.
wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward
wtb: wool to back
s1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn Sirdar Majestic.

I used Phildar Partner 6 in a lovely red shade, (50% nylon, 25% wool, 25% acrylic).
The stated 2oz required is about 56g. A standard DK 50g ball is usually around 90-100m and this should be sufficient. Partner 6 has 66m/71yds per 50g and I needed more than one 50g ball.
Partner 6 is an Aran weight - almost even chunky - yarn.
Consequently I used No 8 (4mm) needles thinking this would still turn out slightly larger than intended. However this combination produced the required tension spot on - and actually I wish it were a shade larger. It is definitely the incorporated Alice Band that keeps this type of hat firmly on your head.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.



Here is the same bonnet in a finer yarn. Normally, I would say finer yarns make a better result, (I know: "it depends"...). However, I actually prefer the double knit version of this style which seems better proportioned.

AliceBandBonnet2.jpg

Instructions for the 3-ply bonnet

Pattern stitch is worked over 6 rows:

1st row (right side facing): * p5, k3, p5; leave wool forward (wfd), k2tog; repeat from * to last 13sts; p5, k3, p5.
2nd row: * k5, p1, k1, p1, k5, p2; repeat from * to last 13sts; k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
3rd row: * p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * to last 13sts; p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.

To Make:

Cast on cast on 103sts using the knit cast-on method to give a loose edge. Work 11 rows in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), ending with a knit row. Now make the hem for the hair-band casing as follows:

Hem row (purl side facing, which is the right side of the work): Fold the hem so that the cast on edge is aligned at the back of the needle containing your working sts; * knit one stitch on the needle with one loop from the cast on edge; repeat from * to end.
Next row(wrong side facing) : knit.

Now commence the pattern - work the 6 pattern rows eight times.

Start the shaping:

49th row (first shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p3, k3, p3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [93sts]
50th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k4, p1, k1, p1, k4; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
51st row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p4, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p4; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
52nd row: as 50th row.
53rd row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p4, k3, p4; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
54th row: as 50th row.

55th row (second shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p2, k3, p2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [83sts]
56th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
57th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p3, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p3; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
58th row: as 56th row.
59th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p3, k3, p3; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
60th row: as 56th row.

61st row (third shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k3, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [73sts]
62nd row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
63rd row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p2, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
64th row: as 62nd row.
65th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2, k3, p2; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
66th row: as 62nd row.

67th row (fourth shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p2tog, k3, p2tog; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [63sts]
68th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to last 15sts; p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
69th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, p1, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * to last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
70th row: as 68th row.
71st row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, p1, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.
72nd row: as 68th row.

73rd row (fifth shaping row): p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, k1, k3tog, k1; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5. [53sts]
74th row: k5, p1, k1, p1, k5; * p3, k1; repeat from * to the last 16sts; p3, k5, p1, k1, p1, k5.
75th row: p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5; * k2tog, wrn, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso; repeat from * to the last 15sts; k2tog, wrn, p5, wtb, sl1, inc in next st, k1, psso, p5.
76th row: as 74th row.
77th row: p5, k3, p5; * leave wfd, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 15sts; leave wfd, k2tog, p5, k3, p5.

Next row: Cast off 13sts; knit to the last 13sts; cast off 13 and fasten off.
Thread a double strand of wool through the remiaing sts, draw up and fasten off.

To Complete

Press and complete as for the double knitting version of the bonnet.

Materials

Original materials called for: 1oz of 3-ply fingering wool.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles.
One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

1½ yards elastic thread.

A plastic hair band.

Tension

30 sts and 44 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit "an average head".
[Editor's note: From the photo this bonnet seems to work out larger than the DK version. That is: the gathering or "drawing in" at the neck edge seems to be more pronounced. Normally I would say that the "fine" knitting produces a nicer result than chunkier but I think I prefer the DK version in this case.]

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: knit two stitches together.
wrn: wool round needle
wfwd: wool forward
wtb: wool to back
s1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

dc: double crochet.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn Sirdar Majestic.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2012

Norwegian-style Zippers

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

This pair of cool cats are really going places. (You can tell - they've got a map and goggles and a scooter and .... everything.
The jackets are plain stitch with a fair-isle yoke, and as the title suggests, a zip closure at the front. Sizes are not very large as the pattern seems to be intended to appeal to the youth of the day. (Small hope I fear).

"Gay Patterning for him and her in to-days fashion" [sic]

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked separately then joined to work the yoke. A simple pattern around the yoke is worked from the charts. The sleeves are set-in, not raglan.

Back:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 124 {136}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 6 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 10 {8}; repeat from * 10 {14} times; inc. in next st, rib to end. [135 {151}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures 12½ {13¾} ins from the beginning.

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of the next and every alternate row until 103 {113} sts remain. Work 10 {16} rows.

Shape Back Yoke as follows:

Next row: Work across 46 {49} sts, cast off 11{15}; work to end.

Continue on this group of 46 {49} sts as follows:
Cast off 2 sts at the neck edge on every alternate row until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts. until work measures 7½ {8¾} ins from beginning of armhole shaping. Cast off.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of sts, and complete to match the other side.

Right Front:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {70}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 8 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 11 {9}; repeat from * 4 {6} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [69 {77}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the back up to the armhole, finishing at the side edge (at the end of a knit row).

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next and every alternate row until 53 {58} sts remain.

Continue straight on these sts until work measures 2 {2½} ins from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at the front edge (after a purl row).

Shape Back Yoke by casting off 7 {9} sts at the beginning of the next row. Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of every alternate row at the neck (front) edge until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts until work measures the same as the back up to the cast off. Cast off.

Left Front:

Work to match Right Front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {68}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 {3} ins.

Next row: Rib 5 {6}, * inc. in next st, rib 5 {4}; repeat from * 9 {11} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [74 {80} sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch increasing 1 st at both ends of the next and every following 8th row until there are 104 {114} sts.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 {18½} ins from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next row 6 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next row 8 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 50 {60} sts remain; then decrease 1 st at both ends of every following 3rd row until 26 {36} sts remain.

Cast off 4 {6} sts sts at the beginning of the next row 4 rows.
Cast off.

Front Bands (work 2):

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 5 sts.

1st row: K2, p1, k2
2nd row: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 14½ {16½} ins from the beginning (when slightly stretched). Change to main contrast, Royal Blue {Brown} and continue in rib until Band measures 19 {21} ins, from the beginning (when slightly stretched), finishing at the end of a 2nd row. Slip thesse sts on to safety-pin and leave.
Do not break off wool on 2nd Front Band.

Yoke:

Join back to fronts at the (tiny) shoulder seams.

With right side of work facing, using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, knit up 289 {369} sts around the yoke, then turn and purl one row.

Work the 1st to 13th rows from Chart A.

Chart A - her colourway

Chart A - his colourway

From here ensure you work the decrease rows according to the size you are knitting.

14th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue p13; (p2tog, p7) 30 times; p6. [259 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p2; (p2 tog, p9) 3 times; (p2tog, p6) 37 times; p2tog; (p9, p2tog) 3 times; p3. [{325} sts].

15th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, klB.

Work the 16th to 23rd rows as rows 1 to 8 from Chart B.

Chart B
Left: her colourway.       Right: his colourway.


24th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p6; (p2tog, p3) 50 times; p3. [209 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p3; (p2 tog, p7) 5 times; (p2tog, p2) 57 times; p2tog; (p7, p2tog) 5 times; p2. [{257} sts].

25th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, klPy.

Work 26th to 37th rows as the 2nd to 13th rows from Chart A.

38th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue, p6; (p2tog, p5) 3 times; (p2tog, p1) 51 times; (p2tog, p5) 4 times; p1. [151 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p4; (p2 tog, p3) 10 times; (p2tog, p1) 49 times; p2tog; (p3, p2tog) 10 times; p4. [{187} sts].

39th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, klB.

Work 40th to 47th rows as the 1st to 8th rows from Chart B.

48th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p2, (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p4; (p2tog) 40 times; (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p5. [99 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p11, (p2tog) 82 times; p12. . [{105} sts].

49th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, klPy.

50th row (both sizes): Using Royal Blue {Brown}, Purl.

Slip the 5 sts at the top of the Front Band where the wool was not broken off on to end of the needle containing the Yoke sts.

Proceed for Neckband as follows:

Using Royal Blue {Brown}, k2, p1, k1, p1 across these front band sts; knit across the Yoke sts; slip sts from top of 2nd Band on to empty needle, and p1, k1, p1, k1, k2 across these sts. [109 {115} sts]

1st row: * K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 2 {2} ins from beginning of neckband.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a flat seam for the ribbing and a back-stitch seam for the remainder, join side and sleeve seams.

Stitch Sleeves into position.

Flat stitch Front Bands into position.

Fold Neckband at centre and stitch down on wrong side of work. Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

12 {14} oz balls in main shade and 2 oz of main contrast and "oddments" (about ½ oz) of each of 5 contrast colours, of 4-ply fingering yarn.

Pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

20 {22} inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Ground shade in oatmeal.

His: Brown, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Royal Blue.

Hers: Royal Blue, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Brown.

Tension

30sts x 38 rows to 4 ins on No 11 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-36 ins ("women") and 38-40 ins ("men").
Length at centre back: 21 {23} ins.
Sleeve seam: 18 {18½} ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Purple Heather 4-ply. In this pattern era it was probably pure wool - later they used Purple Heather as a brand for a blended yarn. (So check if you buy vintage on eBay).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Her colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets3.jpg

His colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets4.jpg

February 2012

For Weekend Rambles...

Sara-the-Mermaid.jpg

Sara, playing her part again as the ultimate 1950's sweater-girl. Unlike the original model (I'm guessing) Sara knitted this elegant creation herself. It's another shapely close-fitting design and has a deep twisted-rib welt which extends flatteringly high over the waist before the cable pattern begins.

Instructions

Instructions for medium size in round brackets thus (). Large size in square brackets thus []. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to all sizes.

Front:

Using No 11 needles, cast on 84 (88) [96] sts and work 6 inches k2, p2 rib. Change to No 10 needles and work a further 2 inches in rib, increasing (6) [8] sts. evenly across on last row of medium and large sizes only. {84 (94) [104] sts}
Change to No 8 needles and pattern.

1st row (right side facing): * k4, p2; then "twist 2" by knitting into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, and then into front of 1st stitch and slipping both sts off needle together; p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.

2nd row: * p 4, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; p4.
3rd row: As first row
4th row: As second row
5th row: As first row
6th row: As second row
7th row: * p1, twist 2, p2, k4, p1; repeat from * to last 4 sts; p1, twist 2, p1.
8th row: * k1, p2, k2, p4, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k1, p2, k1.
9th row: As seventh row.
10th row: As eighth row

These 10 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping sides by increasing 1stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until there are 96 (106) [116] sts, and incorporating the increased sts into the pattern as you go.

Work straight until front measures 13½ (14) [14] inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (6) [6] sts at beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 76 (82) [90] sts remain. Workstraight until front measures 18½ (19) [19½] inches at centre.

With right side facing, divide for neck:

Next row: Pattern 29 (32) [34], k2tog; turn and leave remaining sts on a spare needle. Continue on first 30 (33) [35] sts, decreasing 1 stitch at neck edge on alternate rows until 24 (27) [27] sts remain. Work straight until front measures 21 (21½) [22] inches at centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 (9) [9] sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge). Fasten off.

Then return to the remaining sts on the spare needle, and slip the centre 14 (14) [18] sts on to a spare needle or stitch holder; rejoin the wool to the last 31 (34) [36] sts at the neck edge (right side facing), k2tog, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Back:

Work exactly as for front until armhole shapings have been completed: 76 (82) [90] sts Work straight in pattern over all sts until back measures same as front up to the shoulder.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 (9) [9] sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; leave the remaining sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Sleeves:

Using No 11 needles, cast on 52 (52) [56] sts and work 4 inches in k2/p2 rib. Change to No 10 needles and continue in rib until 8 inches have been worked from the start, increasing 2 (2) [8] sts. evenly across on the last row: 54 (54) [64] sts taking increased sts into the pattern as you go.
Work straight until sleeve measures 18 (18) [18] inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 5 (5) [6] sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 34 (34) [36] sts remain, then at each end of every row until 24 (24) [24] sts remain.

Cast off.

Neckband:

Join right shoulder seam. With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and k. 92 (92) [96] sts all round neck, including those on spare needle at front and back. Work 1 inch k2/p2 rib; change to No 11 needles and work a further inch in rib.

Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the pattern. Join side, left shoulder and sleeve seams; insert sleeves. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 15 (15) [16] ozs. Patons Moorland
Double Knitting in White. A pair each No. 8, No. 10

Example knitted in Posh Yarn Martha DK - just over 4 x 100g skeins.

1 pair each of No 8 (4mm), No 10 (3¼ mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 33-34 (35-36) [37-38] inch bust; length from top of shoulders, 21½ (22) [22½] inches; sleeve seam, 18 (18)
[18] inches.

Abbreviations

twist 2: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, and then into front of 1st stitch and slip both sts off needle together.
k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Moorland which is a double knitting, yarn. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

16oz is about 9 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in DK.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

50smodel.jpg

December 2011

Sideways Stash Socks

HoneycombBedsocks.jpg

Father George: so fond of his bedsocks that they get worn out. [Since he is not bedridden I can only surmise he does not restrict their use to the bedroom!] Hence - by request - here are some more.

The patterned section of the sock is knitted sideways using a variation of a honeycomb stitch; it's an opportunity to use up really small amounts of double knitting yarn. I rotated 4 contrast colours but you could use a different colour for every set of rows; the key is to keep some consistency in the main colour.

Instructions.

The first section of these socks is knitted sideways making a "T" shape where the upright of the "T" is the upper foot, and the cross bar curls around the leg to form the cuff, meeting at the back seam.
The second section knits the heel and then sole of the sock. These two sections are worked on 2 needles.
Then for the toe, you pick up the stitches from the first 2 sections, and knit in the round on 4 needles, and finally you pick up stitches at the top of the sock and knit the welt, also in the round.

First section (knit 2)

Starting at the back leg seam, with main shade (M) cast on 23 sts on 2 needles and knit one row. Commence pattern.

Join in contrasts (C1, C2 etc):
1st row: Using C1, p3 * sl1, p3; repeat from * to end of row
2nd row: Using C1, k3 * sl1, k3; repeat from * to end of row
3rd row: As first row.
4th row: As second row.
5th row: Using main shade (M) purl across all sts.
6th row: Using C2, k1, sl1, * k3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
7th row: Using C2, p1, sl1, * p3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
8th row: As 6th row.
9th row: As 7th row.
10th row: Using main shade (M) knit across all sts.

Repeat rows 1-10 using different contrasts, once more.

Next row(wrong side facing): Cast on 40 sts, and then work across them and all sts, as for 1st row of pattern. [63sts]
[Editor's note: If you want a shorter or longer foot length cast on more or fewer stitches here. Reduce or add sts in multiples of 4, which is about ¾ of an inch]

Continue to work the pattern on these 63 sts, working rows 1-10 three times, and then rows 1-4.

Next row(wrong side facing): Using main shade, cast off 40 sts, and purl across remainder. [23sts]

Continue to work the pattern on these 23 sts, working rows 6-10, then rows 1-10 once, times, and then rows 1-4.
Cast off purlwise using main shade (centre back seam).

Second section (heel and sole).

The remainder of the socks are worked entirely in the main shade.

For the heel: with right side of the first section facing, oriented like an upside down "T" pick up 11 sts from each side of the instep:

Pick up and knit 11 sts from the left side first, ending at the cast on edge (which will be the centre back, and then turn the work over and bend round the second side, and pick up 11sts from the right side. The sock cuff now forms a circle with the back seams together, but not yet sewn.

Turn and purl 1 row across these 22 sts.

Next row(right side facing): * Sl1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more.

Turn the heel:

Next row: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.

Continue to work short rows and decrease in this way until all sts have been incorporated. [14sts].

Next row(right side facing): Sl1, k13, pick up and knit 13 sts down side of heel. Turn.
Next row: P27, pick up and purl 13 sts down other side of heel. Turn.

Now work the instep decreases and sole:

Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1. Turn.
Next row: Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 22 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you want to make the sock for a narrower foot circumference then decrease a few more sts here. About 6 sts for an inch.]

Continue to work a further 50 rows to make the sole - upper and lower foot sections should be about the same length.
[Editor's note: if you altered the sock length by casting on more of fewer than 40 sts, then adjust the number of rows you knit here. For every 4 sts different in the first section, allow 5 rows difference in the sole.]

Toe

Now we move to working in the round.

Knit 11 sts on first double-pointed needle, 11sts on second, then with right side facing, using third needle, pick up and knit 24 sts across the toe edge of the first section.
Complete the round, knitting 11 sts from first needle then 11 sts from second. Knit one more round.

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1. Complete the round by knitting the 11 sts on each of the first and second needles. [44 sts]

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1; on first needle, k1, sl1, k1 psso; knit to end; on second needle, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16sts remain.
Slip the sts from the second needle on to the first and graft the sts together with those on the third needle.

Making up

Sew seams on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Using double pointed needles and main shade, pick up 60-66 sts round top of sock and knit a k3/p3 rib for about 8 rows (or as long as you want), to form the welt. Cast off loosely.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of double knitting yarn, and a variety of left over DK colours.

One pair and one set of four No 8 (4mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

22 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (olive).
C are contrasts.

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used Phildar Oxygene in olive for the main colour, and a 4 other colours for the contrast - you could have every colour change (15 colours) different if you wanted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Fifties Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The third (and final) fair-isle design for November is a 1950s or early 60s cardigan in a double knitting weight yarn. No clues as to the original colour scheme here, and although for today it would seem appropriate to go with the grey palette, I am sure the original would have been more colourful.

Instructions

The Back and Fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Back and Fronts:

Using No. 10 (3¼mm) needles and light colour, cast on 146 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ ins.
Next row (wrong side): Rib 9; (increase in next stitch, rib 15) 8 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [155 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl
3rd row: K39, m1, k1, m1, k75, m1, kl, m1, k39.
4th row: Purl
5th and 6th rows: As 1st and 2nd
7th row: K40, m1, k1, m1, k77, m1, k1, m1, k40.
8th row: Purl
9th and 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd
11th row: K41, m1, k1, m1, k79, m1, k1, m1, k41.
12th row: Purl
13th and 14th rows: As 1st and 2nd

Continue increasing in this manner on next and every following 4th row until there are 183 sts.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 11½ ins, from beginning, finishing at end of a knit row.

Next row: P7, (increase in next stitch p12) 13 times, increase in next stitch, purlto end. [197 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 from Chart (odd rows knit, even rows purl), working bracketed repeat 7 times across row and odd stitch at end of
knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on Chart throughout.

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (17th row of chart): Pattern 44 cast, off 10, pattern 88 (there now being 89 sts. on needle after cast-off); cast off 10, pattern to end.
[Editors note: So you have 3 groups of sts on the needle - 44 then 89 then 44]

Proceed on first group of 44 sts. for first front as follows:

Keeping pattern correct by working rows 18 to 30 inclusive of Chart, shape armhole by decreasing 1 st. at armhole edge on next and every alternate row until 39 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows, thus completing pattern from Chart.

Using darker colour for remainder of front, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5 ins, from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at front edge.

Shape neck: by casting off 4 sts. at beg. of next row.
Decrease 1 st. at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 30 sts. remain.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 7 ins, from beg. of armhole shaping, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next and every alt, row until all sts. are cast off.

Rejoin wool to next group of 89 sts. and proceed for Back as follows:

Keeping pattern correct from Chart, shape armholes by decreasing 1 st at both ends of next and every alternate row until 81sts remain. Continue on these sts. until work matches first front up to shoulder shaping.
Shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next 6 rows.
Cast off all remaining sts.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of 44 sts. and complete to match first front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No. 10 needles and Light, cast on 50 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 inches.
Next row: Rib 5; (increase in the next stitch, rib 9) 4 times; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [55 sts]

Change to No. 7 needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 st. at both ends of 5th and every following 9th row until there are 73 sts.
Continue on these sts until work measures 15½ ins, from beginning finishing at the end of a knit row.

Next row: P3; (increase in the next stitch, p5) 11times; increase in the next stitch; purl to end. [85 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 inclusive from the chart, noting that bracketed repeat is worked 3 times across row, and odd st. at end of knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on chart throughout.

Keeping pattern correct from chart until 30th row of chart has been completed, and working remainder of sleeve in dark colour, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 43 sts remain, and then on every alternate row until 33 sts remain, and then on every following 3rd row until 29 sts remain.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Right Front Band:

Using No. 10 needles and light colour, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: K2; (p1, kl) 4 times; kl.
2nd row: (kl, p1) 5 times; kl.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row (make buttonhole): Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
6th row: Rib 4, cast on 3, rib to end.

Continue in rib working a buttonhole as on 5th and 6th rows on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole until 5 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Break off light colour and join in dark.
Still working buttonholes on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole as before, continue in Dark until 7 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Work 16 more rows.
Slip stitches on to a stitch holder.

Left Front Band:

Omitting buttonholes, work to match Right Front Band.

Neckband:

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulders of Back and Fronts.
Slip stitches from top of Right Front Band on to No 10 needle, with right side of work facing, using dark colour, k2, (p1, kl) 4 times, p1 across these sts., using same needle, knit up 71 sts round neck, slip sts. from top of Left Front Band on to No 10 needle, (p1, k1) 5 times across these sts, kl. [93 sts]

Next row: * k1, p1, rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: k2, * p1, kl, repeat, from * to last stitch kl.

Work 3 more rows in rib.
Make buttonhole on next 2 rows.
Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting k1/p1 rib, with wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges.
Omitting k1/p1 rib, press each piece very lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

"In order to preserve the lovely crepe appearance of Totem fabrics, these must be pressed very lightly as over-pressing will spoil the appearance of the finished fabric."

Using a flat seam for k1/p1 rib, and a back-stitch seam for remainder, join sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position. Flat stitch front bands into position.
Attach buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

12 oz in light colour and 6 oz in dark colour in double knitting yarn.

[Editors note: 1oz = 28g.
See "a word on the wool".]

Two No 10 (3¼mm) and two No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

21sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 34-36 inch bust. Length from shoulder to lower edge, 21¼ ins. Sleeve seam, 18 ins.

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
m1p: make one st by picking up loop between sts and purl into back of it.
kb: knit into back of stitch
pb: purl into back of stitch
tog: together
tbl: through back loops
inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch
dec:decrease by working 2 sts. together

"Stranding" in Fair Isle

In working designs using two or more colours, you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
Do not strand colours over more than 5 sts. When a loose thread must pass over more than 5 sts. weave it over and under the colour in use at centre point of the sts. it passes over.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem, or Moorland which are
double knitting, yarns. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

12oz is about 7 x 50g balls and 6oz is about 4 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in a small size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2011

Nautical top with buttoned vestee

NauticalTop2.jpg

Mid-fifities fashion in fresh blue and white summer colours. The stripes and buttoning give the design a slightly off-kilter nautical look. My version used a stronger blue than the original.
If you are tantalised by the ghostly image of the other sweater in the background then look at these instructions - it is not actually that very knitted top (the one in the background of the photo above has beads - you'll have to trust me on that), but it is very similar, and also dates from the summer of 1956.

My own version is now complete so the pattern is "checked out", and I hope to add a photo soon.

Instructions

Knitted in 2 pieces with a V-neck, and detachable vestee.
Since the vestee is detachable and the buttons are attached to it, you could have more than one colour scheme, by knitting alternative vestees.
[Editor's note: "Ringing the changes" is a common theme for vintage homemade clothes, which seems like it stems from the 1940s "make do and mend" era, though personally I think the concept of avoiding waste (and sweating your assets!) is a much older set of values - Victorian or earlier.]

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 138sts and work as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k2; (p2, k4) 22 times; p2, k2.
2nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 22 times; k2, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows for 4 inches.
[Editor's note: Because I lengthened the pattern at the shoulders by about 2 inches, I compensated by shortened the pattern here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue for a further 2 inches.

Start centre shaping:
1st row (right side facing): k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; m1p, p2, m1p; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
2nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k4; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
3rd row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p4; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p1, m1p, p2, m1p, p1, (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
6th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k6; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
7th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p6; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, m1k, p2, m1k, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
10th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p1, k2, p1, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
11th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k1, p2, k1, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k1, m1k, p2, m1k, k1, p2, (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
14th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
15th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k2, p2, k2, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
16th row: as 14th.
17th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k2, m1k, p2, m1k, k2, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
18th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p3, k2, p3, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
19th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k3, p2, k3, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
20th row: as 18th.
21st row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k3, m1k, p2, m1k, k3, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
22nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 12 times; k2; (p4, k2) 12 times; p2.
23rd row: k2; (p2, k4) 12 times; p2; (k4, p2) 12 times; k2.
24th row: as 22nd.

Continue thus, keeping continuity of rib and increasing 1 stitch at each side of centre 2 purl sts on next and every following 4th row until there are 180 sts, remembering that when increasing for purl sts to purl into back of loop and when increasing for knit sts to knit into back of loop,that is: the next 2 sets of increasings will be purl and the following 4 sets of increasings knit.
Continue the increasings in this way until 21 sets of increasings have been done in all and there are 180 sts on needle.
Work 3 rows straight.
Tie a contrast thread at each end of the row at this point to mark the start of the armholes.
Now continue centre increasings as before on next and every following 4th row, and at the same time shape armholes by k2tog at each end of next and every following 4th row, 15 times in all (you will still have 180 sts on needle).
Work 3 rows straight.

With right side facing, change to garter stitch, (that is, every row knit),
[Editor's note: I made an adaptation here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
and work 2 rows straight.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the pattern at this point to match the fronts where I created a deeper V - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]

Then, continuing in garter stitch, shape shoulders by casting off 4 sts at beginning of next 10 rows, then 12 sts at beginning of following 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until there are 172 sts.

Work 3 rows straight, then start to introduce the garter stitch at the centre as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Rib 82, k3, m1k, k2, m1k, k3, rib 82.
2nd row: Rib 80, k14, rib 80.
3rd row: Rib 80, m1k, k5; k2tog, wind yarn twice round needle, k2tog; k5, m1k, rib 80.
4th row: Rib 80, k7; (knit and purl into the two twists of wool to make a buttonhole), k7, rib 80.
5th row: Rib 80, k16, rib 80.
6th row: as 5th row.
7th row: Rib 80, m1k, k16, m1k, rib 80.
8th row: Rib 80, k18, rib 80.

Divide for neck:
Next row (right side facing): Rib 80, k9.
Turn, leaving remaining sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: K9, rib 80.
Next row: Rib 80, m1p, k9.
Next row: K9, rib 81
Next row: Rib 81, k9.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Next row: K9, rib 81

Put a coloured marker at the end of the row to mark the start of the armhole.

Continue in rib and garter stitch, shaping the armhole edge only by k2tog at the beginning of the next and every following 4th row, and at the same time make a buttonhole in the garter stitch border on the 2nd and every following 12th row until 5 in all are done, excluding first buttonhole at the centre front.

To make a buttonhole:- With wrong side facing, k2, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, k2tog, k3, rib to end. On the next row: knit and purl into the two twists as before.

When the 5 buttonholes are done, continue in rib and garter stitch, still continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every 4th row until 15 sts have been decreased at this edge, and 75sts remain.

Work 3 rows straight.

Change to garter stitch over all sts,
[Editor's note: I made an adaptation here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
and work 2 rows straight.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the pattern at this point to create a deeper V neck - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]

With right side facing, continue in garter stitch and shape the shoulder by casting off 4sts at the beginning of next and following 4 alternate rows, then 14sts at the beginning of following 3 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining 13 stitches.

With side facing, rejoin wool to remaining sts, and work, to correspond with first shoulder, reversing the shaping.

Vestee

With white wool and No 11 needles, cast on 10 sts and knit 4 rows.

5th row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end.
6th row: K4, p4, k4.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: K3, increase in next stitch, knit to last 4 sts, increase in next stitch, k3.

Work 3 rows straight in stocking stitch, keeping the 4sts at each end in garter-stitch throughout.

Repeat last 4 rows once more. Join in blue.

Next row (in blue, right side facing): K3, increase in next stitch, knit to last 4sts, increase in next stitch, k3.

Work 3 rows straight in blue with border as before.
Rejoin white.
Now continue in stocking-stitch in stripes of 6 rows white and 4 rows blue with border as before and increasing 1 stitch inside the border on next and every following 4th row until there are 42 stitches.

Next row (in white): K4, p34, k4.

This completes the 5th white stripe.

Break white, join in blue and knit 5 rows.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work very lightly taking care not to spoil rib.
Join shoulders with a backstitch seam.

Sleeve Edgings: With right side facing, No 11 needles and contrast yarn, pick up and knit 92 sts between markers on back and front.
[Editor's note: The number of stitches you pick up depends on how large you want to make the armhole; I advise you to pin the side seams together and try on the top before finally deciding where the markers should be.
Once decided, a
s a general rule, pick up sts on 2 out of every 3 row ends on rib section and pick up every alternate row end on the garter stitch section.]

Knit 8 rows; cast off.

Join side seams.
Neaten buttonholes with matching sewing cotton.
Press vestee, then sew on buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 7 ozs Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply in main shade (powder blue) and a small ball (less than 1oz) in white.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles.

11 small white buttons.

My version is knitted in 5 x 50g balls of Adriafil Avantgarde 3 ply using Nos 13 and 12 needles.

Tension

Ribbing is difficult to measure, but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 8 sts and 10 rows to an inch over stocking-stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

m1k: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

I have so many words on the wool I am not sure where to begin.
I started to knit this sweater using the Adriafil Avantgarde 3 ply. I bought 4 x 50g balls at 220 metres each but the back took more than 2 balls and so the project was on hold; I finally acquired another ball in a different dye lot, hence the huge delay in publishing as I had to make adaptations to blend it in. Luckily this will not be the case for you.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

I can suggest looking at Susan Crawford's new Excelana range from John Arbon textiles. I have great hopes of this venture solving my knitting issues in the future: 4 ply available now and hopefully 3 ply in the future.

I have not yet experimented with either of these two latter yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adaptations:

I made quite a few casual adaptations to "improve" the design for my figure - but as usual this had a knock-on effect in some other areas - so I describe what happened here.

Adaptation 1: When changing to garter stitch the ribbing pulls at the garter stitch section and causes puckering. You can see this happening slightly in the original photo. To compensate for this, on the first knit row of the garter stitch (right side facing) I knitted across the 4 knit sts and and the k2tog for the 2 purl sts. This changed the number of sts for the casting off.

So for the Front sections I worked k2tog 10 times on the p2 sections of the rib; I then shaped the shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of next and following 4 alternate rows, then 13sts at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then 12sts at the beginning the final 2 alternate rows.

For the Back, I worked it slightly differently without decreasing across the back of the neck. So I worked k2tog across the first 11 p2 sections of the rib, but incorporated the centre 7 p2 sections into the garter stitch as k2, then k2tog across the last 11 p2 sections of the rib.
For the shoulder shaping I cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 10 rows, then 12 sts at beginning of following 4 rows.

Adaptation 2: I lengthened the garter stitch sections by about 2 inches to make the V neck lower. This was to avoid "waist boobz" (please see Kate's blog, "needled" ** on the subject).

Adding 2 inches at the shoulder, lengthens the whole sweater, so I knitted 2 inches less at the start of the sweater - as it is not overly short in the first place.

Having done this, you may find the armhole markers are (up to 2 inches) too low, so check this before you do the sleeve edging and sewing up the side seams. In my case, I have chubby little arms so wanted the armhole slightly larger in any case.

** Unlike Kate I have a large bosom with a low bust point, so need no assistance in producing waist boobz - in fact I seek to reverse the effect.
Plunging V necks are very flattering for large busts - and this pattern has the advantage that the vestee ensures that the plunge does not lack the appropriate level of decorum for daywear - not that large and revealing bosoms ever seemed a problem in the 1950s - though thinking again I am probably way past the age when women were allowed out to flaunt their figures.

See Kate's lovely design "by-the-sea-shore" where she reverses the "waist boob" effect. It is also an off-kilter nautical design in a way so sits nicely with this entry.

Adapting the size:

The original pattern is for one size: 34-36 inch bust. The sweater is designed to fit snugly, but is ribbed which allows some leeway on the exact fit.

It is designed to be knitted in 3 ply at about 30 sts to 4 inches. I have used a 4 ply at about 28 sts to 4 inches, and the size would have been acceptable for me - a UK size 12 or "medium".

I think this may be suitable for using a thicker yarn with larger needles and getting a larger result.

March 2011

Paris Line Cardigan

ParisLine1.jpg

Here we have Jill modeling her charming version of the Paris Line Cardigan from January 1955. It is so successful and comfortable to wear she is planning a second version for the summer.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

The Back

With No 9 needles cast on 106 (118) {126} stitches and work 10 rows in k2/p2 rib, starting and ending k2 on the first row, and increasing 7 (7) {11} stitches evenly across on last row by working twice into every 14th (16th) {11th} stitch. [113 (125) {137} sts]
Change to No 8 needles and pattern.

1st row (right side facing): k1, * p3, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1, * k1. p3; repeat from * to last 3 sts., k1, p1, k1.
6th row: k2, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last 3 sts.. p1, k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ (15) {15} inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 89 (97) {105} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 5 (5) {5} sts. evenly across on last row: [94 (102) {110} sts]

Next row (right side facing): * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., k2.
Next row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., p2.

Continue straight in rib until back measures 23 (23½) {23½} inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (11) {11} sts. at beginning of next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

Pocket Linings (make 2)

With No. 8 needles, cast on 26 (26) {30} sts. and work 4½ () {} inches stocking stitch ending with a purl row; leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work another piece the same.

Left Front

Left. With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row: * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more, and on last row increase 2 sts. as follows:
Increase row: k1, (p2, k2) 7 times, increase in next stitch, rib to last 4 sts, increase in next stitch, rib 3: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1; (p3, k1) 10 (12) {14} times; p1; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
2nd row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2, k1; (p1, k3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
6th row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2; (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

Repeat these 8 rows until work measures 5 (5) {5} inches from start.

Next row (insert pocket): Pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7}times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.
Next row: rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; (p2, k2) 6 (6) {7} times; p2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, then 1st row once.

Next row (wrong side facing): rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; cast off 26 (26) {30} in rib; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Next row: pattern 8 (12) {14}; pattern across 26 (26) {30} stitches of one of the pocket linings, in place of those cast off; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.

Continue in pattern with 23 sts. at front edge in rib until front measures same as back at side edge and ending with same pattern row.

Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at armhole edge on alternate rows until 53 (59) {65} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 6 (4) {2} sts. evenly across on patterned part of last row: [59 (63) {67} sts]

Now continue in rib over all stitches until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 (11) {11} stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge; leave remaining stitches on a spare needle for the time being.
[Editor's note: You continue on these stitches later when you make the collar.]

Right Front

With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts; p2, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows once more.
Make buttonhole over the next two rows thus: Rib 5, cast off 3, rib to end and back, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows in rib, increasing 2 sts on last row as follows:

Increase row: rib 3, increase in next stitch, rib to last 28sts, increase in next stitch, rib to end: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

Next row: k3, (p2, k2) 5 times; p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
Next row: k1, (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k1, p2; (k2, p2) 5 times; k1.

Finish to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings and making 4 more buttonholes as before up front edge, the last one to come about 1 inch below start of yoke ribbing, and the remaining 3 evenly spaced between. Mark position of buttons on left front with pins, then work holes to correspond.

The first row of pocket top will read:
With right side facing, rib 23, pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7} times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Sleeves

With No. 10 needles, cast on 54 (54) {54} sts. and work 3 inches k2/p2 rib, having a k2 at each end on the right side, and increasing 3 sts. evenly across on last row: 57 (57) {57} sts.

Change to No 8 needles and work 8 rows in pattern as for back.

Continue in pattern and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73) {73}sts, then on every following 4th row until there are 83 (83) {83}stitches, taking the extra stitches into pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts. at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 45 (45) {45} sts. remain, then at each end of every row until 25 (25) {25} sts. remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Roll Collar: On the left front, continue in rib on the remaining 29 (30) {34} sts. working short rows to provide shaping thus:

** Work ½ (½) {1} inch in rib, ending at the front edge.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib to last 9 sts; turn; rib to end.
Repeat from ** twice more.
Continue straight in rib until piece fits round to centre back of neck; cast off in rib.
Then on the rightfront. Work as for left but with right instead of wrong side facing when shaping.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join collar very neatly, matching ribs carefully; sew along back of neck.

Catch down pocket linings.
Sew on buttons.
Work a row of double crochet, then a row of slip-stitches up front edge and round back of neck.
Press seams.

Materials

Original uses Patons Double Quick Knitting,
in Jade Green.
21 (22) {23} ozs

[Jill used 11 x 50g balls Phildar Partner 3.5]

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 9 (3¾mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

5 buttons.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
33-34 (35-36) {37-38} inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23 (23½) {23½} inches; and
sleeve seam, 18 (18) {18} inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a vintage Bainin yarn.

Jill used Phildar Partner 3.5 (50% Nylon / 25% Wool / 25% Acrylic: 111m per 50g ball).

Jill's plan for the summer version: Phildar Cabotine (55% Cotton / 45% Acrylic: 124 metres per 50g ball)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Stitch Detail

February 2011

Jester Socks

JesterSocks1.jpg

These socks were adapted from a wonderful elderly pattern, and were lots of fun to knit, (and wear!). They make me think of those dusty Jester colours though - mustard yellow, a dull brick red, a saddened teal...

Instructions.

Cast on 128 stitches and start working in garter stitch - knit 4 rows.

5th row: increase in first stitch, k62, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K62, increase in last stitch.
6th row and every alternate row up to row 13: Knit
7th row: increase in first stitch, k64, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K64, increase in last stitch.
9th row: increase in first stitch, k66, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.
11th row: increase in first stitch, k68, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K68, increase in last stitch.
13th row: increase in first stitch, k70, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.

Knit another 13 rows on these 148 stitches.
Now proceed in stocking stitch and shape by working short rows as follows:
27th row: K72, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
28th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn
29th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
30th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn

Repeat 29th and 30th rows 14 times, thus completing 58th row.

59th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40.
60th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39.
61st row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k38.
62nd row: P37, p2tog, p2togtbl, p37.
63rd row: K36, k2togtbl, k2tog, k36.
64th row: P35, p2tog, p2togtbl, p35.
65th row: K34, k2togtbl, k2tog, k34.
66th row: P33, p2tog, p2togtbl, p33.
67th row: K32, k2togtbl, k2tog, k32.
68th row: P31, p2tog, p2togtbl, p31.

Make slots for ribbon on next row thus:
Slot row: K1, (k2tog, wfd, k2) to last 3 sts, k2tog, wfd, k1.
Next row: Purl.
Break off wool.
Now work the points as follows:
With right side of work facing you slip the first 11 sts onto a piece of thread; join wool to next stitch, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining sts. on a spare needle, continue only on these 21 sts, as follows:

2nd row (first point): P1, (k1, p1) 10 times.

Continue in rib but decrease 1 stitch at each ent of the next row and every alternate row until 3 sts. remain.
Knit 3 together and fasten off.

With right side of work facing you. join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining 11 sts on the spare needle.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Join underfoot and back seam.

With right side of work facing you, join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle. (k1, p1) 5 times, then knit last stitch on spare needle together with first stitch on on the thread, after which (p1, k1) 5 times over remaining sts on thread.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Make another sock in the same way.

Run ribbon through slots at ankles.

Cuff Variation

You can see from the photo below that I added another layer of points to my sock.
I cast on 64 sts and worked 6 rows in rib. I then worked the points in moss stitch as given for the points on the main sock, but I decreased on every 3rd row instead of every alternate row to make the points longer. When I had finished I sewed the cuff to the inside of the sock matching the points on the second cuff to the gaps between the points on the sock. I attached the cuff just below the eyelet row.

JesterSocks3.jpg

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4ply
I used Cygnet 4ply colour 2041 (yellow)

A pair each of No
11 (3mm) needles.

A yard of narrow ribbon.
(I used a twisted cord of yarn).

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Foot length about 9 inches, length down back about 5 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
tbl: through back loops (also known as ssk).
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.

A word on the wool.

The original socks were knitted in "Wendy Family Wool 4ply". I chose to use Cygnet yarn not only because it is a good (75/25) blend for socks but also I wanted the lovely bright "Jester" yellow - and I was surprised that in the vast array of available yarns in my local John Lewis, I could not find any true yellows in any weight of wool - obviously not fashionable currently. The "brights" seem to be limited to cotton blends, which in my experience are not good for socks.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2010

All-year-round jumper

AllYearTop.jpg

Another beautifully crafted early 1950s recreation by Sara; a neat little design which so suits her figure. Instructions are for one size only, and Sara made hers using Posh Yarns Diana 2ply, which seems to match the tension of the original 3 ply yarn. You might achieve more flexibility in fit and yarn choice if you opt for a standard 4ply instead.

Front

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade cast on cast on 120 sts loosely and work 24 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
[Editor's note: To aid the fold of a hem, (which is what this is), a garter stitch row is sometimes inserted half way. So - you could knit 11 rows in stocking stitch, and then knit one row on the wrong side - then continue with the stocking stitch to 24 rows.]

Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge.
Purl back.

Change to No.11 needles and work 4 rows stocking stitch, then shape basque as follows:

Next row: k33, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k33
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k32, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k32
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k31, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k31
Work 5 rows straight.

Continue decreasing thus on next and every following 6th row until 108 sts. remain.
Work 5 rows straight.

Shape waist as follows:

Next row: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to last 8 sts, k8
Next row: *p8, increase in the next st; repeat from * to last 8 sts, p8. [108 sts]

Begin working the check pattern, introducing the two contrast colours C1 and C2.
[Editor's note: In the original pattern they plunge straight in with the 2 by 2 check, but I think Sara has framed her panel by starting and ending with a row of C1 (green), which I think looks rather smart.]

1st row (right side facing): * k2 C1, k2 C2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2 C2, p2 C1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * k2 C2, k2 C1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * p2 C1, p2 C2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern repeating the 4 rows as set above, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row. Incorporate the extra sts keeping the chack pattern correct.

When work measures 10 inches at centre....
[Editor's note: The check panel is approximately 50 rows, depending on your own tension.]
....change back to main shade and continue in stocking stitch, still increasing at side edge as before until there are 130 sts.
Work straight until front measures 13 inches at centre.

With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the sleeves, [150 sts].
Continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders and neck as follows:

Cast off 10, k50; turn and leave remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 10 rows; then, keep the neck edge straight, but at the same time cast off 5 sts on every alternate row at the armhole edge until all sts are gone.

Return to the remaining sts on the stitch holder; slip the centre 30 sts on to a stitch holder, and rejoin the wool to the remaining 60 sts.
Work to correspond with the first shoulder.

Back

Work as for the front to the end of the check pattern.

Work 2 rows in main shade, then divide for back opening.
Work on the first half of the stitches, leaving the remainder on a stitch holder.
Continue shaping side edge until there are 65 sts on needle, then work straight until side edge matches back to armhole.
With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then 5 sts on the following 8 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Rejoin the wool to the remaining stitches at the centre and work to correspond with the right half of the back.

To Make Up

Press work on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Neck: With right side facing, main shade, and No 12 needles, pick up and knit 90 sts all round the neck, including 30 sts from the stitch holder on the front.
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off very loosely using a bigger needle.
Fold neckband in half and catch down on wrong side; press.
[Editor's note: I have to say, I am not clear from these instructions whether you should work the neckband on 2 needles - hence the "starting with a purl row", or whether you are working on 4 needles, but in reverse stocking stitch - given that you are instructed to join (implies both) shoulder seams before you begin.
Sara's version uses conventional stocking stitch which matches the hem. If you work backwards and forewards on 2 needles, only join one shoulder seam, and join the second with the neckband when you have finished..]

Join side and under-arm seams; work 2 rows dc round each sleeve edge. Turn back 1 inch of sleeve to form a cuff and catch in position at shoulder and under-arm.

[Editor's note: Sara leaves the sleeves plain after this point - instructions below introduce additional trim.]
Make a chain to go round each sleeve edge, then work 1 row dc across this chain. Sew in position round sleeve just below crochet edgings.

Work 3 rows dc down left side of back opening, including neckband, then 3 rows down right side making 24 button loops in 3rd row.

Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 5 ozs Patons Beehive Fingering 3ply in main shade (lipstick red) and 1oz each of grey and white.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles.

A No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

24 small buttons.

Tension

8 sts and 10 rows to an inch.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-34 inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 20½ ins.

See "adapting the size".

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometime called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit 2 slipped sts together through back loops)

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

Sara used Posh Yarn Diana 2 ply - about 600 yards for the main colour, and about 90 yards for the green contrast. For the white she used Capricorn Yarns brushed mohair 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

As with many of these 50s patterns, only one size is given: 33-34 inch bust. The sweater is designed to fit snugly, but probably will not fit most of us.

It is designed to be knitted in 3 ply at about 30 sts to 4 inches. You can gain some leeway by changing the yarn - this is a simple shape so it should cope with that - you should check the length you want and adjust the inches you knit accordingly.

Sara cleverly converted the pattern to a top down knit on the fly, and this would be ideal to try that that if you are bold enough.

April 2010

Little Raglan Reefer

RaglanReefer.jpg

Here is a cute little knitted reefer for a small child (6-24months). It dates from pre 1960s where children's knitwear was not inspiring, but as soon as I saw this I wanted to make it - I am a sucker for any nautical theme, especially for kids (and dolls...)

Instructions.

This pattern is given for 2 size options - the instructions for the larger size are blue bold type in curly brackets.

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib as follows:
1st rib row: K2; *p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd rib row: *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times, then 1st row once.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 6) 7 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [63{69}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k11{13}; (p1, k4, ) twice, p1; k11{13}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2F, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2F, p1; p1, C2B, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2B, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until you have completed row 28{32}.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern as you work these rows).

[Editor's note: you should be about to begin Row 5 of the pattern sequence for the smaller size and Row 3 (a cable row) for the larger size.]

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [19{21}sts]
Cast off.

Front

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib for the first 11 rows as you did for the back.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 7) 6 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [62{68}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; (p1, k1, ) 8{9} times; k1.

Turn and continue working on these 40{44}sts to make the left front (these instructions are intended for a boy - see editors note below) and slip remaining 22{24} sts on to a stitch holder and leave to work later.

[Editor's note: If you want to make this for a girl - maybe in white? - then you will perhaps want to reverse these instructions by working the first 22{24} sts, casting on 20sts and working on these 40{44} sts as written, omitting the button holes. Pick up the rest of the sts to work the right front - and don't forget to work the buttonholes on the right front!]

2nd row: (K1, p1) 9{10} times; purl to the last st, k1.

[Editor's note: The centre panel on each of the front pieces is worked in double moss stitch, and I found it convenient to put a stitch marker after I had worked the first 18{20} sts of row 2, to show the limit of this section.]

3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: K2, (p1, k1) 8{9} times; purl to the last st, k1.
5th row (on which buttonholes are worked): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; p2tog, yrn, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; yfwd, k2tog, k1.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k8{9}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch panel correct throughout, work 16{20} rows, working buttonholes as before on the 9th of these rows (row 21 for both sizes).

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end, and cast on 5 sts.
[Editor's note: This creates the jacket-style revere].

** Keeping continuity of the pattern, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 18{20} sts remain of the moss stitch panel.
Work a further 16{18} rows straight in moss stitch as set.
Cast off.

Completing the other side to make the right front:

Slip the sts from the stitch holder on to a No 10 needle, point facing centre of work (right side facing you), and cast on 18{20}sts. [40{44}sts].
Change to No 8 needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (p1, k1) 9{10} times.
3rd row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (k1, p1) 8{9} times; k2.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch correct throughout, work 17{21} more rows, thus finishing at side edge.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row (wrong side facing): Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]

Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end, cast on 5 sts.

Complete to match the left side of front, working from ** to end.

Right sleeve:

Using No 10 needles, cast on 32{34}sts. Work 13{15} rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 3{4}; (increase in next st, rib 4) 5 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [38{40}sts]

Change to No 8 needles and proceed in stocking stitch with cable panels set as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K3{3}; (p1, k4, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, k4, p1; k3{3}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K3{3}; (p1, C2B, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, C2B, p1; k3{3}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern as on last 6 rows, increasing 1 st at both ends of next and every following 6th row, until there are 50{54}sts; work the extra sts in stocking stitch.
Then work 3{7} rows straight before starting the raglan decreases.

Shape raglan by working rows as you did for the back:

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [6{6}sts]
Cast off.

Right sleeve:

Work as for the right sleeve, but working C2F instead of C2B.

[Editor's note: The sleeves are identical apart from the way the cables twist, and obviously you can choose to sew them into the Reefer in whatever orientation you prefer.]

To Make Up

Block each piece from the wrong side, pressing very lightly using a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.

Join side, raglan, and sleeve seams using a flat seam.
Stitch the collar into position across the sleeve tops and back of the neck, joining the 20 cast-off sts together at the centre back.

Stitch down the 20 cast-on stitches at the waist on the inside.
Attach buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3{4} ozs Patons Quickerknit Baby (wool or bri-nylon).
Sample shown (larger size) used 4 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in navy blue.

A pair each Nos 8 and 10 (4mm and 3¼mm) needles.

Four gold coloured buttons (mine are inexpensive plastic buttons with anchor design).

AnchorButton.jpg

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles. You may need to use a smaller needle to get the right tension using the Baby Cashmerino.

Size matters

Chest 20{22} ins. Length, 9½{10½} ins. Sleeve seam, 6¾{} ins.

Abbreviations

C2F: "cable 2 front". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at front of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

C2B: "cable 2 back". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at back of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: (decrease) slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, or "ssk", slip, slip, knit.

yrn/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn forward.
Makes an extra stitch which forms a buttonhole when knitted on the next row.

 

A word on the wool.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days there are many yarn weight variations without rigid adherence to specific tension schemes, and so light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge for baby knitwear.
I used the No 8 needles as specified in the pattern, and produced a fairly loose fabric; I think the yarn is better suited to No 9 or 10 needles (3¾ mm - 3¼ mm).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WilliaminReefer1.jpg

WilliaminReefer2.jpg

RaglanReeferB&W.jpg

February 2010

Fringed Yoke

Knitted in a light weight yarn and originally designed in the 1950s to wear under or over a sweater with a lower neckline. The original is a "fringed cable yoke" (in case you want to show it off over the sweater) but I have omitted the fringing; I wear it as a convenient alternative to a scarf. The yarn I used is more a 4ply than a 3ply weight so my version is very slightly bulkier and longer than the original.

Instructions.

Cables are worked as follows:

Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 7: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 6: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 5: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 4: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
Cable 3: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.

Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece.

Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P4, * k8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
2nd row: K4, * p8, k8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more.

9th row: P4, * cable8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
10th row: as 2nd row.
11th row: as 1st row.
12th row (decrease row): K4, * p8, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4. [271 sts]
13th row: P4, * k8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
14th row: K4, * p8, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.
15th and 16th rows: as 13th and 14th rows.
17th row: P4, * cable8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
18th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, p2tog, p3, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p3, k2tog, p3, k4. [253 sts]

Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

24th row (decrease row): K4, * p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts]
25th row: P4, * cable7, p6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, cable7, p4.

Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts]

Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4.

Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before.

Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end.

Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end.

Work a further 4 rows straight.

Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4.

Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib.

Cast off.

To work the buttonholes:
With crochet hook, work 3 rows of double crochet down left side of opening, then 3 rows down right side, making 8 small button loops in 3rd row. Fasten off.

Optional fringing:
Cut 2 strands of wool each 3 inches long, fold in half and knot through every alternate stitch of cast-on edge. Now take last 2 strands from one knot together with first 2 from next knot and knot these 4 together to form trellis fringe as shown in photograph. Trim fringe evenly. Sew on buttons. Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. **

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
[Editor's note: You can use a circular needle here but knit backwards and forwards.]
A cable needle.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
8 small buttons.

Tension

Original yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

One size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension.

Crochet

Double crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2010

Elegant Yoked Sweater

CableYokeSweater.jpg

Fabulous sweater-girl look from the 1950s created by Sara.
This is a close-fitting design with some negative ease. Sara created hers from the top down translating the instructions as she went along; she did not write down her adaptation, but it is far from impossible to convert it dynamically, as Sara did, with this type of design.
Instructions are provided for one size only, but some modifications are possible.

Instructions.

The cable over 6 sts is worked as follows:

Cable: Slip next 3 sts. onto a cable needle to back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.

Back and front alike:

With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 sts and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 102 sts.
Work straight until back measures 12 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 78 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work a second identical piece for the front.

Sleeves (make 2):

You have the option of log or short sleeves - work one or other set of intructions.

Long sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 48 sts and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 76 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 17 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 52 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on spare needle, or stitch holder.

Short sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 66 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 76 sts. Work straight until sleeve measures 4½ inches, then shape top as for long sleeve.

Yoke:

You should now have 2 identical pieces for the back and front, and two identical pieces for the sleeves, all on spare needles or stitch holders.

With right side facing and the set of No 10 needles.....
[Editor's note: The yoke is going to be pulled in by the cable pattern. Sara noticed that the yoke tends to ride up a little in her version, and this may be improved by increasing the needle size for the yoke section. Whatever needle size you chose for the main body, consider going up a size for the yoke.]
arrange stitches thus:-
place the 52 stitches of the left sleeve, and the first 40 stitches of the front on the first needle; the last 48 sts of the front and the 52 sts of the right sleeve on the second needle; and 78 stitches of the back onto the third needle. [260 sts].

[Editor's note: If you are using a circular needle, thread the stitches on in the order: sleeve, front, sleeve, back. Put a stitch marker to mark the beginning/end of the round, as front and back look the same. Also remember that the yoke decreases in size until it becomes the neck opening so you may wish to change between lengths of circular needle and finally move to 4 needles as the round becomes smaller.]

Work in rounds as follows:

1st round: K5, * k7, p2, k17; repeat from * ending last repeat k12 instead of k17.
2nd round: K5, * k6, p4, k16; repeat from * ending last repeat k11 instead of k16.
3rd round: K5, * k5, p6, k15; repeat from * ending last repeat k10.
4th round: K5, * k4, p8, k14; repeat from * ending last repeat k9.
5th round: K5, * k3, p10, k13; repeat from * ending last repeat k8.
6th round: K5, * k2, p12, k12; repeat from * ending last repeat k7.
7th round: K5, * k1, p14, k11; repeat from * ending last repeat k6.
8th round: K5, * p16, k10; repeat from * ending last repeat k5.
9th round: K4, * p18, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
10th round: K4, * p6, k6, p6, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
11th round: as 10th round.

12th round: K2tog, k2, * p6, cable, p6, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k4. [250 sts]
13th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k7; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th rounds: As 13th round.

18th round: K3, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog. [240 sts]
19th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k6; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
20th, 21st, 22nd, and 23rd rounds: As 19th round.

24th round: K2tog, k1, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 21sts, p6, cable, p6, k3. [230 sts]
25th round: K2, * p2tog, p4, k6, p4, p2togtbl, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3. [210 sts]
26th round: K2, * p5, k6, p5, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
27th, 28th, and 29th rounds: As 26th round.

30th round: K2, * p5, cable, p5, k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 19sts, p5, cable, p5, k1, k2tog. [200 sts]
31st round: K2, * p2tog, p3, k6, p3, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [180sts]
32nd round: K2, * p4, k6, p4, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
33rd, 34th, and 35th rounds: As 32nd round.

36th round: K2tog, * p4, cable, p4, k1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 16sts; p4, cable, p4, k2. [170sts]
37th round: K1, * p2tog, p2, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [150 sts
38th round: K1, * p3, k6, p3, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
39th, 40th, and 41st rounds: As 38th round.

42nd round: K1, * p3, cable, p3, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 14 sts; p3, cable, p3, k2tog. [140 sts]
43rd round: K1, * p2tog, p1, k6, p1, p2togtbl, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1. [120 sts]
44th round: K1, * p2, k6, p2, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1.
45th, 46th, and 47th rounds: As 44th round.

48th round: P2tog, * p1, cable, p2, k2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 10sts, pl, cable, p2, k.l. [110 sts]
49th round: * P2tog, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k1; repeat from * to end. [90 sts]
50th round: * P1, k6, p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
51st, 52nd, and 53rd rounds: As 50th round.

Divide stitches onto No 11 needles, 45 across front and 45 across back. Work 7 rows k1, p1 rib across front of neck; cast off in rib. Work back of neck in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams and right shoulder ribbing.
Sew 2 press-studs on left shoulder. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 14 ozs. for long sleeves, 11 ozs. for short sleeves of Patons Moorland Double Knitting**.

Example knitted in Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK - 8 x 50g balls - about 900m.

1 pair each of No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, and a set of 4 No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, or circular needle.[Editor's note: Please see the important notes about the wool used for the modern version, the consequent needle sizes used, and the sizing.]

A cable needle. Two press-fasteners.

Tension

Original yarn knits 24sts x 32 rows to four inches on No 10 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 22sts x 28 rows to four inches on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-35 inches; length from top of shoulders 20½ inches; sleeve seam: 17 or 4½ inches.

See "adapting the size".

**A word on the wool.

If you have some vintage Patons Moorland DK - you may like to note that I surmise they used this brand name for more than one version of this wool; I have some Moorland from the 1980s and I believe it is a relatively thick DK, which would be hard to contemplate knitting on No10 needles.

Sara used Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK, (120m per 50g ball), which knits as 22sts x 28 rows to 4ins on 4mm needles.
[Editor's note: This wool is ideal for felting, so be extra careful when washing it.]
If you use a needle size of No 8 (4mm) needles instead of the original needles, it will increase the nominal size of the sweater from 34 to 37 ins. This may be desirable.

See "adapting the size".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

The original pattern is for one size: 34-35 inch bust. The sweater is designed to be tightly fitting, and the nominal sweater size is just under 34 ins, so it intends there to be slight negative ease. The original wool and needle sizes indicate a "fine double knitting" wool with a tension of 24sts to 4 inches on 3¼mm (relatively fine) needles.

The sizing is a bit small for an average size these days, so moving to a conventional DK wool (22 sts to 4 ins on 4mm needles) makes a nominal size of about 36½ins, making the sweater suitable for up to a 37-38 ins bust. Also - whatever wool and needle size you opt for - note particularly the suggestion to move to a larger needle size when working the yoke.

If you increase the size by further gauge changes with thicker wool, you will find that the sweater may be less suited to the close fitting styling, and you lose the 50s "look".

CableYokeOriginal.jpg CableYokeOriginal.jpg

August 2009

Beaded Doilies

Doilies2009.jpg

Knitted doilies from the early 1960s

These were frequently used when I was a child, as everyone had a milk jug to protect - and often as not, no refrigerator. I need to point our here, (just to be clear), that I did not come into the world during the era when milk was delivered daily straight from a churn into your own jug - ours did come in bottles.
Actually, I exaggerate our level of refinement "chez nous" - we did not have our milk in a jug as the norm. Mrs Blake did though, and I remember her lovely hand-made beaded doilies, to which I even now aspire - even though my milk is safe in a carton in the fridge.

I also remember camping with the Girl Guides, and protecting our dishes of jam with net cloths - only to find them later covered in wasps, munching away, having casually sliced their way through the netting with their sharp little mandibles! [Not members of the saw-fly family for nothing].

Larger doily

Start with 10ch, join with slip stitch to form a ring.

Pass loops on to knitting needle thus:
* insert hook into next ch and pull loop through, pass loop on to knitting needle; repeat from * 8 times more, dividing the 10 sts over three needles (3 on each of two needles and 4 on one).

1st Round: Knit.
2nd Round (and every alternate up to the 14th round):
knit.
The instructions give one repeat of the pattern stitches only and this is repeated 9 times more on every round (10 times in all).

3rd Round: Yfwd, k1.
5th Round: Yfwd, k2.
7th Round: Yfwd, k3.
9th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k1, k2tog.
11th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, k2tog.
13th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, k2tog.
15th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, yfwd, k2, k2tog.
16th Round: K7, k2tog.
17th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, yfwd, k3, k2tog.

Rep 16th and 17th rounds until 41 st round is completed, having one knit stitch more before k2tog at end of each repeat. [220 sts]

42nd Round (and all even rounds unless otherwise stated): knit

From now on one repeat of pattern stitches is given and is repeated 19 times more (20 times in all).

43rd Round: K10, yfwd, k1, yfwd.
45th Round: K10, yfwd, k3, yfwd.
47th Round: K10, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
49th Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k6, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k3, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
51st Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k4, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
53rd Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k2, ( k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3, yfwd, (slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
55th Round: Slip2, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) 3 times.
57th Round: K1, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3, (yfwd, slip1, k1, psso) 3 times.
59th Round: Slip the last st of each right needle on to left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd) 3 times.

61st Round: K1, (k2tog,yfwd) 3 times, k1, k twice into next st, k1, (yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso) 3 times.
62nd Round: Slip the last stitch of each right needle on to left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, (k3, yfwd) twice, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso.

63rd Round: K8, k5 sts into next st, k7.

65th Round: Slip the last stitch of each right needle on to left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k2tog, yfwd, k4, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd, k4, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso.

67th Round: Slip last stitch of each right needle on left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k5, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k3, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd, k5.
69th Round: K1, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, k1,
(k2tog, yfwd) twice, k5, (yfwd, slip1, k1, psso) twice, k1, k2tog, yfwd.

71st Round: K2, yfwd, slip1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1.
73rd Round: K1, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, (yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso) twice.

74th Round: Knit.

Crochet Edging

75th Round: Slip last stitch of each right needle on to left needle. Insert hook into place near stitch just transferred and pull working thread through, * (insert hook into next 3 sts as if to knit, thread over and pull through, thread over and pull through 2 loops - dc made - slip the 3 worked sts from needle, 3ch) twice;
(insert hook into next 2 sts and make a dc as before, 7ch) twice;
insert hook into next 3 sts and make a dc as before;
(7ch, insert hook into next 2 sts and make a dc as before) twice;
3ch, insert hook into next 3 sts and make a dc as before, 3ch.
Repeat from *, ending with 1 slip stitch into first dc.
Fasten off.

[Editor's note: This final crochet row does take a long time - it is fiddly and took me well over an hour and a half of fiddling. However, you can be encouraged by the fact that this is your very last step to finishing - once completed, it's all over.]

Smaller doily

Start with 8ch, join with slip stitch to form a ring. Pass loop on to knitting needle and continue as for larger doily, noting that repeat is worked 7 times more (8 times in all) instead of 9.

Divide the 8 sts, 3 on 2 needles and 2 on 1.

Work as for larger doily until 29th round is completed.

30th Round: K14, k2tog.
From now on one rep is given and is repeated 11 times more.
31st Round: K9, yfwd, k1, yfwd.
32nd Round: (and all even rounds unless otherwise stated) Knit.
33rd Round: K9, yfwd, k3, yfwd.
35th Round: K9, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
37th Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k5, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k3, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
39th Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k3, ( k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
41st Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
43rd Round: Slip1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) 3 times.

Continue as for larger doily starting from 57th round to end.

Making up

Sew in all ends.
Dampen and pin out to measurements.

Sew beads around edges - or make a set for your side table....

Materials

Coats Mercer Crochet Cotton No 40 (20 gram), 2 balls in selected colour.

1.00 mm (or No 4) steel crochet hook.

Set of four double pointed No 13 (2¼mm).
[Editor's note: these need to be long needles - I managed the larger doily on 8 inch but these were not long enough. You increase from 10 sts to over 400 and it is heart breaking to lose sts at the needles ends - it is essentially not recoverable with a lace pattern like this.]

Size matters

13 inch diameter for larger and 9½ inch for smaller.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
yfwd: yarn forward, or "yarn over"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over
dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US is referred to as single crochet.

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended cotton was Coats Mercer Crochet 40. You need a fine thread to get the right drape - not necessarily insect proof but keep extra leaves out of the salad bowl (ones you haven't put in there intentionally...).

Example used Crochet cotton 40 in white for the smaller doily and Anchor Leinen 20 (colour 392, 50g ball: 430m) - a fine linen thread made in Germany. In either English or German websites I can only find the thicker No 10 referenced.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern there is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. This is particularly annoying with a fine lace pattern.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Doily1.jpg

Doily2.jpg


June 2009

Tennis Socks

TennisSocks.jpg

Early 1950s tennis socks originally knitted in crisp navy and white wool. I love cuffed socks but detect that some others (my sister) clearly do not. These have the design made specifically to fold down though - so there's no way out.

Instructions.

The pattern works the instep and the sole separately on two needles to enable you to work the fair isle pattern across the instep only. It is not possible to achieve this in the round. However, you join the two together as you knit.

Using No 12 needles with main shade (M), cast on 59 sts loosely and join in a round. Work 4 rounds in moss (also known as seed) stitch [every row k1 p1].

Next Round (increasing): K3; (m1, k8) 7 times. [66 sts]

Cuff border:

Change to No 11 needles and join in contrast (C) and work wave pattern border by repeating the 6 stitch pattern 10 times:

1st Round: * k3 contrast (C), k3 navy (N); repeat from * to end.
2nd Round:
* k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k1(C) ; repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k1N; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: Knit in N.
5th Round (decreasing): K31; k2tog; ssk2tog; k31. [64 sts]

Now continue with cuff diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times across one round:

6th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * k2(N), k1(C), k1(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * k1(N), k1(C), k3(N), k1(C), k2(N); repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k1(N) ; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
11th Round: As 9th.
12th Round: As 8th.
13th Round: As 7th.
14th Round: As 6th.

Now break off C and continue with N only; change to No 12 needles and work 7 rounds knitting.

Then turn the work so you are working the rounds in the other direction. This reverses the work to allow the cuff to fold over with the right side visible.

Work 8 more rounds knitting; at the end of the first round knit into the stitch below the first stitch of the round and knit it together with the last stitch of the round to avoid a small hole in the work.
Editor's note: Even if you don't understand how to do this, any tiny hole will not be visible as it is hidden under the cuff.

Join in C, working main diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times:

1st Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k2(N), ; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k2(C), k1(N), k1(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k1(C), k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * k2(C), k3(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
6th Round: As 4th.
7th Round: As 3rd.
8th Round: As 2nd.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Work rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Continue with N only and divide for the heel, however do not break off C.

Divide for heel

Next Row: Using navy wool only, knit the next 31 stitches on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 33 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete patterns across the 33 instep sts. Make sure that it looks like this (you will have just completed row 5, the middle row in the picture):

[ Editor's note: If it doesn't look like this... you can compensate by knitting more or fewer sts for the heel flap until you get to the pattern boundary. Then when you purl back on the row below, follow the instructions as set to get your 30 sts. You should have your instep sts set correctly as above. If you still haven't then there is likely a mistake in your fair isle pattern.]

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Purl back across 15 sts, p2 together, purl remaining 14 sts. [30 sts].

Heel flap

Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.
Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p29.
Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.

Repeat last 2 rows 13 times more.

Turn heel

Turn the heel by working short rows:

Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p16, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip1, k5, ssk, k1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, k7, ssk, k1; turn.

Continue in this way until all the sts have been incorporated in the row, ending with a knit row. [18 sts]

Turn. Purl one row.
Do not turn work, do not break wool.

Pick up and purl 16 sts down side of heel flap to bring the navy wool back to work the patterned instep. Leave these 16 sts along with the 18 heel sts, on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Upper foot panel

Take 33 sts left on needles 1 and 2, and slip them on to one needle.

Continue to use the navy yarn and pick up the contrast C, which should be waiting for you at the beginning of a purl side instep row (row 6 of the pattern). Begin working back and forth across these 33 sts, keeping the continuity of the pattern starting with a purl row and working from row 6 of the chart where you left off; work alternate rows in knit and purl.
Work the first 6 rows without slipping the first stitch and after that, slip the first stitch of every row.

Continue for 5½ inches or 4 inches less than overall desired foot length, ending with a knit row.
[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot. Each pattern is approximately 1 inch, and it is nicer if you can end your work after one complete pattern, which will be to the nearest half-inch, after knitting row 5 or row 1 of the pattern. If your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches you can still work to complete patterns, and compensate by adding a couple of rows when you work the toe.]

Break contrast yarn, and continue in navy only.

Turn the work and purl across 15 sts; p2tog; p16.

Continue with wrong side facing, using another No 12 needle, pick up and purl about 27sts from the slipped sts down the right side of the upper foot panel, and from the edges of the first 5 rows you knitted.
[ Editor's note: This is 27 sts, or more, or less, depending on how you adjusted the foot length. Also - when you pick up these sts you may want to work the sts through their back loops to keep them tight.]

Mark the stitch, by placing a piece of waste wool between the sts at this point. The waste wool should be about 6 inches long in an easily distinguished contrasting colour, and smooth, (for example cotton), as it will be woven between rows, and later pulled out.

Using the same No 12 working needle, pick up and purl 17 sts from side of heel flap, then purl 9 sts from the heel.

Using another No 12 working needle, purl the 9 remaining heel sts, and then purl the 16 sts you already picked up from the other side of the heel flap.

Mark the stitch with a piece of waste wool, as before.

Continuing with this needle, purl along the left side of the upper foot panel, picking up 27 sts from the edges of the first 6 rows you knitted and from the slipped edge sts.

The work is arranged on 3 needles. The picture shows the working needle in the process of knitting across the sole, and the waste wool markers in white.
[ Editor's note: This is where you need the needles to be long. I managed with 8 inch dpns but they really need to be longer to ensure you don't lose sts off the ends. While you are working and joining the sole, it might be prudent to put end stops on the two working needles.

Purl across the 32 sts at the top of the panel. Then using one of the spare needles, purl down the right side of the panel again, as far as the stitch marker.]
The marker is trapped between sts in the row below; pass the waste wool between the sts again before continuing, so that it will be trapped between the rows and continue to mark the sts for the sole section.

Do not turn the work.

Sole

Using the No 12 working needles, you are going to knit back and forth across the sole (between the markers) in stocking stitch, knitting the last stitch from each row together with one stitch from the upper foot panel.

1st Row: (Wrong side facing) Slip1, p24 from first needle, (16 sts up side of heel and 9 sts from heel flap), then purl 24 sts from second needle, up to 1 stitch before the stitch marker. Purl the last stitch of the sole section together with the first of the instep sts. [50sts between the markers]
Turn.
Continue to work sole on 3 needles, one working needle and the sts arranged evenly over the other 2.

2nd Row: (Right side facing) Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts before the marker; k2tog, ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.
3rd Row: Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, purl to the last stitch; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, shaping the sole by decreasing 2 sts on the knit rows, until 28 sole sts remain between the markers.

Then continue without shaping as follows (continuing to weave in the markers as before):

Next Row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch before the marker; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before.
Next Row: Slip 1, knit to the last st before the marker; ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all the sts from the sides of the upper foot have been joined to the sole. Do not join any of the sole sts to the 32 sts left on the 4th needle at the end of the panel.
End with a knit row. Do not turn.

Toe

Now you continue to work the sole and upper foot sts together in a round, as follows:

With right side facing, using your working needle (needle 1), knit across 32 sts from the upper foot. Knit the next 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 2), and knit the final 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 3).
Knit the first stitch from the upper foot panel on needle 1 and slip it on to the end of needle 3. Slip the last stitch from the upper foot panel on to the beginning of needle 2.

You have 60 sts arranged with 30 sts on needle 1, and 15 sts on each off needles 2 and 3.

Continue to work in rounds as follows:

[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot if your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches. Work a couple of extra plain rounds here before starting the decreasing.]

1st Round: Needle 1: k1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk2tog, knit to end.
Needle 3: knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1. [56 sts]
2nd Round: Knit.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain.
[ Editor's note: You can decrease further if you have pointed toes.]

Slip the sts from needles 1 and 2 on to one needle and graft together with the sts on needle 3.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

4 ply: 2 ozs navy, 1 oz contrast colour.

One set each of 4 double pointed needles (dpns) size 11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm).
The smaller (12) needles need to be 9 or more inches in length.

Tension

30 stitches and 32 rows to 4 inches over pattern.

Size matters

Length from top to bottom of heel, top turned down, 5 inches; length of foot 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

N is main shade (navy).
C is contrast (pink).

m1: make one by picking up the loop between sts and knitting into the back of it

ssk/ssk2tog: (slip, slip, knit) - or (slip1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over). Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops".

 

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Purple Heather Fingering, (which in this era was a pure wool 4 ply), in navy for the main shade and white for the contrast.

Example used Sunbeam St Ives Sock wool in navy and Jaeger Baby Merino 4 ply in pink (50g balls, each about 200yds) - almost all of one ball of the main, and about half of the contrast.
Both wools are now extinct I think but substitute 4ply sock wools are fairly easy to find.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Original photo from Stitchcraft April 1950, constructed using a different pattern on 2 needles with seam under sole. Generally, seams in socks are avoided so they are more comfortable to wear; a seam right under the ball of the foot cannot be ideal as sportswear. I imagine these socks were for visual impact rather than practicality.

October 2008

Hug-Me-Tight

HugMeTight1.jpg

Snug winter accessory from 1953.
"Something new in waistcoats. A modern version of the old-fashioned knitted comforter".
Proves to be very flattering for most shapes, and not just for those twig-like 1950s post-war figures.

Instructions.

The overall pattern is four basic rows:

1st Row: Right side facing, purl.
2nd Row: Knit.
3rd Row: Knit.
4th Row: Purl.

These 4 rows form the ridged pattern.

Back:

With larger needles cast on 117 sts. and work 52 rows in pattern as given above. With right side facing, shape sides by increasing one stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until there are 153 sts.

Work straight until back measures 11 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape arm-holes by casting off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 127 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures l8¾ inches, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at beginning of next 8 rows.
Cast off remaining sts.

Right Front:

With larger needles cast on 82 sts and work in pattern as for back,
shaping cross-over flap by increasing one stitch at beginning of first and following 9 alternate rows [92 sts].

Work 12 rows straight in pattern.

With wrong side facing, decrease one stitch at end of next and following 9 alternate rows [82 sts].
Next Row: Right side facing, cast off 22, knit to end.
Next Row: In pattern.

With right side facing, continue in pattern, sloping front edge and shaping side edge as follows:
Next Row: p2tog, pattern to last stitch, increase in last stitch.

Continue in pattern, sloping front edge by decreasing one stitch at beginning of every following l0th row.
At the same time increase one stitch at side edge at end of every following 6th row, 17 times more; then, keep side edge straight until this edge matches back to armhole.

With wrong side facing, continue sloping front edge on every l0th row as before, and at the same time, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at beginning of next row, then k2 tog at this edge on next 7 rows.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue sloping front edge on every l0th row as before until 40 sts remain.
Work straight in pattern until front measures 18¾ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 sts at beginning of next and following 3 alternate tows, armhole edge.

Left Front:

With larger needles cast on 60 sts. and work 52 rows in pattern.
Next Row: Increase in first stitch; pattern to last 2 sts; p2tog.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Armhole borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit 180 sts. round armhole.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: Purl.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Two Rows: k2, p2 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Front Borders:

With right side facing and smaller circular needle, pick up and knit 172 sts from top of flap to centre back of neck.
Continue and pick up and knit 212 sts round rest of neck and down left front to lower edge. [384 sts].

Work 5 border rows as for armhole borders.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join side seams. Press seams. Fasten with pin or brooch as shown in photograph.

Materials

10 x 25g balls
Rowan Yorkshire Tweed 4 ply**,
100% pure wool. ; 110m/120 yards per ball.

1 pair each of No 11 (3mm) needles, and one long No 12 (2¾mm) circular needle.

Original knitted in a 3ply wool on numbers 14, and 13 (2mm and 2¼mm) needles.

Kilt pin to fasten.

Tension

Yarn knits 28sts x 40 rows to four inches on No 11 needles.

The original tension on thinner wool is 9 sts to the inch.

Note: Do not stretch pattern when
measuring length.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-34 inches; length from top of shoulders 19 inches.
This version in a slightly thicker yarn to fit 38-40 inch bust as shown in photo.

See "adapting the size".

**A word on the wool.

I used a Rowan Tweed 4ply, which is thicker than the original wool and made the item larger overall. The actual yarn I used is no longer available but you could choose Scottish Tweed 4ply instead.

Original: Paton's Beehive Fingering 3 ply in Lipstick Red.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

Knitting in 4-ply produces a bigger size than the original but I carefully checked my tension, experimented with needle sizes, and did the arithmetic. Changing from 9st per inch to 7st per inch makes a big change from a 34 inch bust to 42. However the wrap over style offers some flexibility, and it is easy to add or subtract a few sts throughout the pattern if you need to, or even alter the waist size that you start with, and do fewer increases up to the armhole, if you feel up to it.

This style is meant to be wrapped as tightly as you like to wear it, and seems to look flattering on a range of figure types.

I wanted to make the wrap for myself, I liked the style and tried on this one before sending it off to Alison. However, the 4ply tweed made up too big for me (even with my own ample bosom!). I purchased some 2 ply on-line - fine pure wool in a cone, intended for machine knitting - so one day when I feel like working with lots of tiny stitches, I might get round to it.... (It's a lovely red - "lipstick red" ...)

HugMeTight2.jpg


August 2008

Seaside Caps

CapPlain1.jpg CapPlain2.jpg

"Capped to catch the eye" in 1952. This cap can be "worn with a purpose on windy days for cliff-top walks or out at sea, or just for extra prettiness at any time". "Leave it plain or dot with beads" - and - "for teenagers only - roll up the brim in jaunty sailor style".
Luvvly.

Instructions.

Instructions are for 2 versions - one plain and one with striped brim.
Both crowns are worked the same.

Crown
Begin at centre crown. With number 11 hook, make 4 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch. Work 6 dc through centre of ring.
In all following rounds, work through the back loop only of each dc to get a ridged effect, and mark the start of each round with coloured thread to check increasings.
[Editor's note: You just weave a piece of coloured thread between the last and first sts of each round such that you can just pull it out when you have finished.]

1st Round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twice, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th Round: As 3rd round. [32 dc]

5th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) three times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [40 dc]
6th Round: As 5th round. [50 dc]

7th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) four times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [60 dc]
8th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) five times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [70 dc]
9th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) six times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [80 dc]
10th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) seven times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [90 dc]
11th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) eight times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [100 dc]

12th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 10 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) ten times. [106 dc]
13th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [113 dc]
14th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fifteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [120 dc]
15th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) nineteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [126 dc]
16th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [132 dc]
17th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 6 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) six times. [138 dc]
18th Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

19th-34th Round: As 18th round.

This completes the crown.

Striped Brim

With number 11 hook, and white yarn, make 23 chain, turn.

Miss 1 ch 1 dc in each of 22 ch.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

††

Join in contrast.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.Join in white.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
††

Continue repeating from †† to †† until strip fits all round the lower edge of the crown. Do not stretch this strip but allow it to fit comfortably. End with 2 rows of contrast colour. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Fasten off the crown section.
Join short ends of striped brim. Pin in position round edge of crown, right side of brim to right side of crown. Oversew neatly with matching cotton; fold brim in half, and slip stitch to edge of crown on wrong side.
Sew in ends.

Plain Brim

This is worked with the yarn doubled.
Join a second strand of yarn in with the crown section, and using a number 10 hook, work 9 rounds of dc, but always working through both front and back loops of each dc in the row below.
Finish off with a row of slip stitches, but take care not to do this too tightly or the brim will be too small.

Sew in ends and optionally embroider 5 rows of beads around the crown, as shown in the photograph.
[Editor's note: I omitted the beads. You can use any free format style here that you like - for example a collection of small buttons.]

Materials

Plain: 2 x 50g ball Phildar Phil Crochet, in white, (100% cotton, 201yards).
Optional assortment of coloured glass beads.

Striped: 1 x 50g ball
in main shade, (07 Veronese), with 1 x 50g ball of contrast (white).

3 balls (2 in white) made both hat versions.

Nos. 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) crochet hooks.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

7 dc to an inch. Check the tension and your head measurement carefully; the original was made in angora which is more stretchy than pure cotton.
Note: these are UK crochet instructions - to work a double crochet: insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through both loops.

Size matters

To fit "an average head". However, the hat size can vary quite a lot according to your tension.

A word on the wool.

Original specified 2 x ½oz balls of Patons Fuzzy Wuzzy Angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Striped-brim version, and modelled original:



I was so taken with the another seaside idea on the same page as the hat that I felt compelled to share it with you here as well.

Scarf on Holiday...


...to make a girl look prettier than ever




.....TIED AT THE BACK it makes a snug bolero....

As a change from the everlasting headsquare, buy a yard of rayon or silk - ours was a yard of spotted rayon at 5/6d,
[Editor's note: For you whipper snappers out there, that's 27½p or about 60 cents.]
but silk is best if you can afford it, as it's less slippery - cut it in half lengthways, join the short ends neatly, slip hem the long raw edges, and you have a manoueverable long stole, which can be worn in all sorts of ways and is so much prettier and smarter than a triangle tied under your chin.
[Editor's note: I'm with them on that one.]





AS A CARDIGAN - round your shoulders, ends tucked up and over your belt in two comfortable pockets.

Carry it around on holiday and it will be a godsend for those chilly moments, and less bother to carry than a cardigan. Tie it round tyour waist as a sash when you don't want to carry it.

June 2008

Trim crochet gloves

TrimGloves1.jpg

Chic summer gloves from 1955, worked in cotton crochet, though not lacy.
Elegant but not frilly - "these trim gloves are crisp and fresh". Definitely to be worn with pill-box hat and veil rather than Edwardian sunshade, (or in practice - neither - but you get the idea).
Original worked in white with black trim. Very Audrey Hepburn.

Instructions (both hands alike).

Beginning at the side edge with main colour, make 41 chain, turn.

Start with little finger
1st Row: Miss 1 ch., * 1 half treble in each ch.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch.
2nd Row: * 1 h.tr. in each h.tr.; repeat from * to end; break cotton and rejoin at other end.

Begin third finger
3rd Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 19 ch. for 3rd finger, 1 ch. to turn.

**
4th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each ch; 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.tr. to end, turn with 2 ch.
5th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch.
6th Row: Repeat last row once more.**

Begin middle finger
7th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 21 ch. for middle finger, 1 ch. to turn.
Repeat from ** to ** once.

Begin first finger
11th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 19 ch. for 1st finger, 1 ch. to turn.
Repeat from ** to ** once.

Begin thumb
15th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 19 h.trs., 14 ch. for thumb, 1 ch. to turn.
16th (short) Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in next 14 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn;
17th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 21 h.trs., turn with 2 ch.
18th (short) Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 24 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn.
19th Row: * 1 h.tr. in each h.tr.; repeat from * to end. Fasten off.

[Editor's note: You end here at the top of the thumb. One half of the glove is complete - this half covers the back of the hand.]

Now keeping same side of glove piece facing you, rejoin to beginning of row, and work 1 long row dc. up side of thumb and all round fingers, ending at top of little finger.

TrimGloves5.jpg

Now work down side of little finger to wrist thus:
[Editor's note: You are working the other half of the glove now - the palm side.]

Little finger
1st Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch. Repeat last row 4 times more, turning with 1ch on last row.

Third finger
††
6th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 13 h.trs., 19 ch. for next finger; 1 ch. to turn.
7th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of the 19 ch; 1 h.tr. in 13 h.tr. [that is 32 h.trs. in all], 1 dc in each 12 dc; turn with 2 ch.
8th Row: 1 h.trs.in each 12 dc, * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
9th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 1 ch. ††

Middle finger
10th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 13 h.trs., 21 ch. for middle finger, 1 ch. to turn.
11th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of the 21 ch; 1 h.tr. in 13 h.tr. [that is 34 h.trs. in all], 1 dc in each of 12 dc turn with 2 ch.
12th Row: 1 h.tr.in each of 12 dc, * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
13th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 1 ch.

First finger
Repeat from †† to †† once - as for third finger.

Thumb
18th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 14 ch. for thumb, 1 ch. to turn.
19th (short) Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in next 14 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn.
20th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 21 h.trs., turn with 2 ch.
21st (full) Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 24 h.trs., * 1dc into next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
22nd Row: 1 h.tr. into each stitch to top of thumb. Do not fasten off.

Continue with row, working a row of dc. down inner side of thumb and round all fingers, ending at top of little finger, where you finished your row of dc when working the other side; fasten off.

Make another glove in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts very carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join sides and fingers by oversewing.
[Editor's note: The original gloves were made in white, so the instructions here say to use with white sewing cotton. So either use a toning sewing cotton or do as I did and use the main yarn to sew up]

Remember to turn second glove inside out for other hand.
[Editor's note: The original gloves are made identically, but have a specific side for the palms, so you need to fold and sew them up opposite ways in order to create right and left hands.
If this helps: after you have sewn up the first glove and then turned it right side out, sew up the second glove to look exactly the same orientation as the first - then when you turn it right side out, it will be the reverse of the first glove.].

Cuffs

With main colour yarn, make 45 ch., turn.
[Editor's note: This strip is eased to fit bottom of the glove, but it does have to fit around your wrist, plus allowing for a little overlap - I found that although the glove fitted me, 45 chain were not sufficient to create the strap - so I used 51 chain.]

1st Row: Miss 1 ch., * 1 dc in each ch.; repeat from * to last ch., 2 dc in last ch.; turn with 1 ch.
2nd Row: 2 dc in first dc; * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 1 ch.
3rd Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 2 d.c. in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
4th Row: As 2nd row.
5th Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 1 slip st in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
6th Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 1 ch.
7th Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 1 slip st in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
8th Row: As 6th row. Fasten off.

With contrast yarn, work 1 row of dc all round cuff.
[Editor's note: As it's left to your own judgement, do not work too many dc across the short straight edge, or it will splay out and the curved edge will not cover it properly for the overlap.]

Sew cuff neatly round glove with contrast edging overlapping edge of main work and with opening in centre of back; rounded edge comes below 3rd finger and slightly overlaps straight short edge of cuff.
Sew press-studs to cuff to fasten invisibly.
[Editor's note: I used a non-sew fastener (9 or 10mm) - the kind you apply with pliers or a supplied tool. You need to apply this before you put on the decorative contrast circle.]

TrimGloves3.jpg

Work a small circle of dc in contrast and sew in position on top of cuff as shown in photograph.
[Editor's note: I used Coats No 20 crochet cotton worked double for my contrast navy - so for the circles I used the cotton singly with a much smaller hook. I made a ring and worked 7 dc into it; I then worked a second round of 2 dc into every dc. This wasn't quite big enough, so I work a round of slip sts to finish.]

TrimGloves4.jpg

Materials

1 x 50g ball Phildar Phil Crochet, shade 07 Veronese, (100% cotton, 201yards), with a small amount of navy blue for contrast.
One number 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.
Two press fasteners.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
h.tr = half treble
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

6 half trebles to an inch.
Note:
these are UK crochet instructions - to work a half treble: wool over hook, insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through all three loops.

Size matters

To fit "an average hand".

A word on the wool.

Original specified 2 x 1oz balls of Strutt's Milford Knitting Cotton No. 8 in white, with scraps of black 4-ply wool for edging.

The single 50g ball of Phil Crochet was only just enough at 201yds.

For winter gloves, they could be easily worked in wool instead of cotton for those who don't like to knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Your finished gloves.
Editor's note: "So what's all this messing about with a bunch of flowers?" - I was trying to emulate the original photo shoot, and found it surprisingly hard. I had to get George to take the photo and he did not seem focussed enough on (a) yes I did want the flowers in the photo not just a load of stems, (b) but it is supposed to be a centred around the gloves and not a bunch of flowers, and (c) o I wish I had slim elegant fingers, and maybe 4 arms so I could take the photo myself...

TrimGloves2.jpg


January 2008

Boudoir Bedroom Boots

Boudoir_boots.jpg

Second pattern this month from an "Oddments" leaflet for "using up old Scraps of Wool", dating anywhere between the 1930s and the 1950s. Described originally as Lady's Bedsocks*, I hope they will prove to be the perfect partner for Boudoir Bedjacket.

*One of the other patterns was called "Bedroom Boots" and I couldn't resist the alliteration; however, this pattern described here makes footwear that is much more elegant than either "bedsocks" or "boots" implies. They look at their best when on the feet, (as opposed to just after you have knitted them, when they look like a pair of unattractive caterpillars). It is hard for me to date the design, as many patterns were reproduced out of their true era; possibly an expert on publishing could be more accurate.

Instructions

Each sock is worked in one piece. Make two alike.

Commence at the front edge. Using No. 12 needles, cast on 64 stitches, and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No. 6 needles.

**
Row 1: (right side) Knit twice into every stitch. [128 sts].
Row 2: Sl.1, purl to the last st, k1.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch (k 1 row, p 1 row).
Row 7: *K2tog; repeat from * to end of row. [64 sts].
Work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib. **
This completes a 12 row pattern.
Repeat from ** to ** twice and then from ** until you have completed the 7th pattern row.

Change to No. 12 needles. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up - Press each piece lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Join the cast on and cast off edges together, then continue the seam, stitching up one end for the toe.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, work a picot edge all around the top of each of the socks, as follows:

One slip st to secure the yarn to the top front edge.
*3ch, 1dc into the first of these chain, miss 1 st, 1 slip st into the next st. Repeat from * around each top.

Embroidery
Using the contrasting wool, work pairs of chain stitches, (or a kind of "lazy daisy" stitch) in a "V" shape down each front seam.
[Editor's note: The link above is to Sharon Boggon's lovely site "In a minute Ago". She is an artist who is interested in the connections between textiles and digital technology, and has created a wonderful site, full of interesting information (and a blog!)]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2oz of 4ply, and a small quantity of contrast for embroidery.
Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, in colour 007.

One pair each of number 12, an No 6 needles.

Tension

20st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 6 (5mm) needles.

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

Baby Cashmerino is heavier than a 4ply, knitting to a tension of 25st and 34 rows to 4 inches. Thus I used more yarn than the original pattern. Each 50g is 125m, and I used 90g.

Boudoir_boots2.jpg

As a variation (or to "use up old scraps of wool") you might choose to make the picot edging in the contrast colour to match the embroidery - I believe this would work better if the contrast were darker than the main colour.
Alternatively, if you are not confident in your embroidery skills (I found it harder than I had imagined) you could stick with a single colour and embroider in the main yarn; this provides a more sophisticated look - if indeed a bedsock can be said in any way to contribute to a sophisticated look!

Feather-light Boudoir Slippers - from only one ounce of wool

Third and final pattern is totally untested, from a magazine dated November 1968 [ "Ideas for Gifts"]. They really are called "boudoir slippers" which, apart from any other consideration, makes me feel that the pattern dates from longer ago than 1968. As a teenager, I would have found these indescribably awful; however, luckily, I did not have relatives who were handy with the old needles.
Likely to remain untested as a girl can have only so many bedsocks.
[Should any readers admit to making this pattern, please submit a photo of the result for me to display here!]

Instructions

Each sock is worked in one piece. Make two alike.

Cast on 76 stitches, and work as follows:

Row 1: k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2: k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.

Repeat these rows for 6½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Change to No. 12 needles. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up - Fold cast-on edge to cast-off edge and join side seams. (Seams form heel and toe).

Crochet edging - Starting at the heel, crochet eyelets all around the edge as follows: - 3ch, * 1dc in next stitch, 1ch, miss next st; repeat from * all round. Join with slip stitch to 3ch at the beginning.

Then work a row of picots thus: - * 3ch, 1 slip st into the first of these chain, 1 slip st into the 1ch space of the previous round; repeat from * all round. Fasten off

With wool double, crochet a chain cord for each sock and thread through holes; make and sew a small tassel to each end.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 1 (1oz) ball of Patons Beehive Baby Wool in 3ply.

One pair of number 11 needles.
Crochet hook

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

One size fits all.

A word on the wool.

It is fairly easy to acquire 3ply Baby wool to knit up to this tension.

November 2007

Cosy covers - Fifties retro

Cosy_cover_red.jpg

This is a pattern from 1956 "reversible bottle-cover" (sic) - though why the quotes, why the hyphen, and why the description reversible, I really am not sure. Originally a cover for a hot-water bottle, I have adapted it to fit a microwavable pad. The knitting turned out to be an interesting shape, and in consequence made for an interesting pattern, (probably not as intended). I used a bright red and white combination, which reminded me of a 1950s accessory set. The original recommended colours were "powder blue and white".
In the days when pattern illustrations were not in colour, the colour names were much more vivid and descriptive; modern names tend to try and evoke an emotion rather than a colour. I do love reading these old patterns with the colours - "lipstick red" "primrose yellow" "mimosa" "frosty lime" - you could just eat them - a feast for the mind's eye.

Instructions

First piece - with No. 11 needles and first colour, cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: Inc in every st (8 sts)
Row 2: K3, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K3 (10 sts)
Row 3: Inc, K3, inc in next 2 sts, K3, inc. (14 sts)
Row 4: K6, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K6 (16 sts)
Row 5: Inc, K6, inc in next 2 sts, K6, inc. (20 sts)
Row 6: K9, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K9 (22 sts)

With the right side facing for row 7 place a row marker on this side of the work, to mark it as the right side of the work.

Then continue working as before, increasing at both ends of the row, and in the middle, on odd (right side) rows; increase only in the middle on even (wrong side) rows.

After a while, the stitches will become crowded and the shape hard to manage on just 2 needles. At this point, spread the sts evenly across two needles, discarding the centre st marker; continue to work back and forth across the needles using a third needle.

The work will take on a triangular, or arrow shape.
[Editor's note: The original pattern is intended to form a triangle, I could not make this happen - the wool I used may have a different rows:sts ratio than the one recommended. This shape and resulting cover is flexible and should suit whatever wool you use.]

Continue working until you have 105 sts on each side of the centre.
Leave the completed piece to one side without casting off. Do not break off the wool.
[Editor's note: The original pattern was intended for a hot water bottle. They advised to knit until there are 139sts with the 3 ply wool. The base of the triangle has to be long enough to wrap around your hot water bottle or heated pad; you can choose to stop knitting when you feel it is wide enough.]

Second piece - work a second triangle (or arrow) in the contrast colour.

Lay the pieces out with the point of one arrow to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below).

Continue working with one of the available colours (I used the red). Cast off the two rows of knitting together, using a "three-needle cast off"(see picture below), fairly tightly.

[Editor's note: You put your working needle into the first st on the front needle and the first st on the second needle behind; you pull your loop through and knit both sts off the needles together. You have one st on your working (usually right hand) needle. You repeat so there are two sts on your working needle. You pass the first st you knitted over the second; continue casting off in this way.]

This is how it looks half way through; ideally the work should lie flat at the cast off edge:

Next you put the other two edges together - again the point of one arrow is next to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below):

Cast off the two rows together. You are left with a sort of tube; turn it so that the cast off edges are inside. The next picture shows a hot water bottle placed in the tube.

The arrow points are arranged centre front and back.

Fold up one of the ends and sew the diagonal seams in place from the wrong side. (I sewed the tip of my white arrow for the closed end). At the other end, make a chain using the crochet hook and sew in place as a loop for the button at the (red) arrow tip.
Place your "replacement core" in the cover and fold over the top of the cover to an appropriate position and mark the place for the closing button.
Make a crochet flower to act as a button, and sew in place.
[Editor's note: You know ho to make a crochet flower without instructions don't you?
O, all right then; this is what I did...]

Crochet flower - begin by making a slip loop with your first colour as if you were starting a crochet chain, and crochet into this loop for your first round. Ensure that the loop "slips" (can be tightened) from the tail end of your work, not the working end.

Round 1: using the first colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: chain 3, (1 htr 1ch) into each of the 8 dc then ss join to the first 3ch.
Round 3: 1dc into first chain space, (3ch, 1dc into next ch sp) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Make a second flower in the second colour.

Round 1: using the second colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: ss into first dc, (3ch, ss into next 1dc) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Place second flower on top of first, and sew through both layers, onto the cover at the marked position for the button.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2 oz each of two contrast colours in 3ply.
Example shown is knitted in 4 ply - 1 x 50g ball of each colour.

One pair of number 11 needles, with a spare pair (or set or 4) to aid in the construction.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

One hot water bottle "replacement core", (available to order on the web).

Tension

Garter stitch is difficult to measure but the wool should knit to a basic tension over st st of 28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

A word on the wool.

I used an acrylic 4ply; not ideal, but these covers can take some wear and tear.

June 2007

Cocktail top

Cocktail_top.jpg

A pretty, low-cut, jewelled cocktail jumper for evenings, dating from 1957. Originally knitted in Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply, this version uses a fine vintage Phildar yarn in sunshine yellow. The original colour suggestion was pale pink, with black embroidery, (which I omitted altogether for my version to avoid looking like a bee as much as possible). I think it would be very pretty in pink.
My pose above is in imitation of the orginal model, which is in itself quite a challenge despite the air-brushing techniques available for digital photographs....

Lace Pattern

Row 1: (right side) k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1.
Row 2: k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts: p3, k1.
Row 3: k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k2tog, wfwd, k2.
Row 4: k1, purl to the last st, k1.
Row 5: k2, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts: wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2.
Row 6: k1, p2, [k1, p1] into made loops, * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * to last 3sts: p2, k1.
Row 7: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, wfwd, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Row 8: k1, purl to the last st, k1.

Instructions

Back and front alike.

With No. 13 needles, cast on 114 (126) stitches, and work 4 inches in k1, p1 rib.
With right side facing, change to No. 11 needles, and commence working in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row. Increase at each end of the 11th and every following 6th row, until there are 132 (144) sts. Then increase at each end of the following 4th row: 134 (146) sts. Next row: purl.

[Editor's note: I worked both sides together in the round, (so every round knit) up to the start of the armhole pattern, when I split the work, and continued each side separately. Mark the sides with st markers to aid placement of the increases.]

Introduce lace pattern at the centre:
Next row: k60 (66), pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern, k60 (66).
Next row: p60 (66), pattern 14sts as 2nd row of lace pattern, p60 (66).
Continue in lace pattern and stocking stitch thus for a further 6 rows, increasing 1 st at each end of the next and following 4th row, [138 (150) sts].

Next row: Inc in 1st st, k55 (61), pattern 26sts as 1st row of lace pattern, k55 (61), Inc in last st.
Work a further 7 rows in lace pattern and stocking stitch thus, increasing 1 st at each end of every alternate row, [146 (158) sts].

Introduce lace pattern at sleeve edges:
[Editor's note: If you are working in the round, then you need to split the work at this point and continue each side separately.]

Next row: pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern; k40 (46); pattern 38sts as 1st row of lace pattern; k40 (46); pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern.
Work a further 7 rows in lace pattern and stocking stitch.

Divide for neck as follows:

Row 1: pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern; k34 (40); k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more, k1, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining sts on a spare needle.
Row 2: k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * twice more, p3, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 3: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 2 sts: k2tog.
Row 4: k1, p21, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 5: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k2, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * twice more: k1.
Row 6: k1, * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * twice more: p2, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 7: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, wfwd, k1; repeat from * once more: k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k1.
Row 8: k1, p19, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 9: pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern, k28 (34); k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more, k1, k2tog, wfwd, k2tog.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1st at neck edge on every alternate row, and at the same time, taking an extra 6 sts into lace pattern at neck edge on every following 1st pattern row until 49 (51) sts remain, ending with right side facing for next row. At this point 9 (10) complete patterns have been done from the start of the lace pattern.

Now work over all stitches in pattern, still decreasing 1 st at neck edge on next and following 3 alternate rows. [45 (47) sts]
Next row: in pattern.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the armhole here, kntting one further 8-row pattern to make the armhole measure 7 inches over my tension on the smaller size (actually I think I should have knitted the larger size); I did not decrease at the neck edge on these additional rows. Lengthening the armhole is fine but remember you are also lowering the V neck when you add rows here, and if you do it too much you may end up turning "pretty low-cut style for evenings" into something far more racy!.]

Shape shoulder as follows (right side facing):

Next row: Cast off 12 (14) sts, pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: in pattern.
Next row: Cast off 6 sts, pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Now, keeping the neck edge straight, continue to shape the shoulder by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. Fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin the wool to the remaining sts and work the other side of the neck as follows:

Row 1: k2tog, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more; k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1; k34 (40); pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern.
Row 2: pattern 14sts, p34 (40); k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts: p1, k1.
Row 3: k2tog, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * twice more; k2tog, wfwd, k2; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 4: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p21, k1.
Row 5: k2tog, k3, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * once more; wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 6: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p2, [k1, p1] into made loops; * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * once more: p4, k1.
Row 7: k2tog, k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog,wfwd, k1; repeat from * once more; k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 8: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p19, k1.
Row 9: k2tog, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, k28 (34), pattern 14sts as 1st row of lace pattern.

Finish to correspond with the other side of the neck.

Making up - Press stocking stitch parts only on the wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder and side seams. Press seams.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, work a row of double crochet (US single crochet) all round neck and sleeve edges.

Embroidery - Using 2 strands of stranded cotton, embroider 4 petal loop stitch flowers in centre of diamonds round neck edge and sleeves, as shown in the photograph, then add a jewel or sequin to the centre of each flower.
[Editor's note: I omitted the embroidery and used 28 (a whole packet) of Gutermann beads distributed around the neck at the front.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 5oz of 3-ply.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of vintage 3ply.
See "substituting the wool"

One pair each of numbers 13 and 11 needles. Number 12 crochet hook.

Jewels (5mm) or sequins and stranded cotton for embroidery.

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

Instructions for two slim fitting sizes: 33-35 (36-38) inch bust; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19¼) inches.

A word on the wool.

I used an old Phildar yarn (Loisirs) which knits 30st to 4inches; Phildar Luxe is a quality fine yarn in a fair range of colours - but both these yarns are mixed fibres with only 15% wool.
See "substituting the wool"

Disclaimer

(well...almost a disclaimer...)
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this lace pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Substituting the wool
The recommended yarn is a 3-ply. Knitting these old patterns makes you think "gosh - I'd forgotten how fine 3-ply was" and "gosh - how small and dainty people were in the 1950s".

In addition to the issues with size and tension, 3-ply is a very fine (fingering) yarn which is now really restricted to baby wools, assuming you can find it at all. The baby ranges usually offer it in white only, and tend to be "easy care" - or as we know it: synthetic. I have not done exhaustive research, but there does not seem to be any of the standard bread-and-butter brands in this wool weight. I imagine that some of the heavier crochet cottons may knit up to these kinds of tensions, but the texture of the knitting may be a little stiff.
You can aquire some vintage 3-plys on eBay (for example, Jaeger 3ply Botany, or even Patons Nylox, which is 80% wool and not entirely restricted to mens sock colours). I notice also there are very fine yarns available in cones intended for use with knitting machines, but often content and weights are not clearly defined.

The good news is there has been quite an opening up of the 4-ply wool weights* which I think is due to the popularity of sock knitting now. There are some lovely colour ranges, and Rowan, for example, offer several 4-ply ranges including suitable cottons. This top has turned out to be very pretty, and I would have much preferred it in a cotton or soft woollen yarn.

Knitting in 4-ply will help you with producing a bigger size but check your tension carefully, experiment with smaller needles, and do your arithmetic. Changing from 8st per inch to 7st per inch makes a small 35 inch bust leap to 40. This style is meant to be tight, and don't necessarily be put off if you have an ample figure - as long as it goes in and out in the right proportion!
If you want to change the number of stitches to alter the size then you need to add or subtract 12 at a time. You can alter the length up to the arm easily enough, and also lengthen the armhole by simply knitting more of the lace pattern before you start shaping the shoulder, (as I did).

*The "quickerknit", or fine double knitting yarns, seem to be offered in many more ranges now as well ; at one time this too was relegated to the baby wool shelves only, and it is one of my favourite weights to knit with.

May 2007

Cobweb Fichu

fichu.jpg

Pattern from 1955 described as a "lacy head scarf for evening wear". This is a charming fichu, for evening, or indeed day wear, depending on your choice of yarn type.

I don't know about you, but I try not to wear head scarves in the evening; in fact I try not to wear them ever. I took against them in the 1970s - something to do with the image of the Royal Family - o, and they make me look like an extra from an Edinburgh Fringe production of Mother Courage.
Hopefully, however, this one will make us all look like Grace Kelly.

Instructions

Begin at the widest part. With No. 11 (the larger) hook make 260 chain, very loosely.

Row 1: Miss 1ch, * 1dc in next ch, 7ch, miss 5ch; repeat from * to last chain; 1dc in last ch; turn.
Row 2: 4slip sts in next 4ch, * 7ch, 1dc in centre of next 7ch loop; repeat from* to end, turn.

Continue, repeating 2nd row, thus decreasing one trellis pattern on every row, until only one trellis pattern remains to be worked in the centre.
Fasten off.

flower.jpg Flower border - With No. 12 (the smaller) hook make 12 chain, and join in a ring with a slip st.

First round: 3ch. (this counts as one dbl tr), work 26 dbl trs through centre of ring, and join to top of he 3ch with a slip st.
Second round: * 16ch, 1ss into 10th ch from hook, 6ch, miss 2 dbl trs, 1 ss into next dbl tr. Repeat from * to end. Fasten off.
[Editor's note: Don't forget this is a UK crochet pattern, and these are UK dbl trs; if in doubt, link to "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Make 14 more in the same way.

Making up - Press lighty on the wrong side under a damp cloth.

Make a long strip of flowers by joining (sewing) the tip of one petal of one flower to the adjoining tip of petal of another flower.

Join this strip to sloping sides of main part - seven petals along each side, and one at the top of the triangle; catch the tips of two petals of each flower to the main work to secure the border.

Give a final press, pinning out the flower points.

[Editor's note: I experimented, adding a pearlised bead suspended in the centre of each of the flowers; it looks very pretty and follows the current fashion for applied beading - however the "nude" versions retain a certain delicacy without further adornment.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for a ½oz ball of "Fine Ply".

Example in hand-painted cobweb lace wool (100m skeins about 9g) purchased from Alchemy Fibre Arts eBay shop.

Numbers 11 (3mm) and 12 (2.5mm) crochet hooks.

Tension

One trellis pattern measures ¾in on no. 11 hook.

Size

Approximately 36 inches at the widest part.

A word on the wool.

There were quite a few patterns for very fine scarves and shawls in cobweb wools, and as their name suggests they are very fine gauge.
You could knit this in other yarn weights - for example, Rowan Kidsilk Haze - and simply produce a fichu of a different (larger) size.

Now you have the taste for chic yet casual evening wear in adaptable crochet, I expect you'll want to embark on a larger project (such as the one below) to extend your skills. Let me know if you need the pattern.

retro_outfit.gif

March 2007

Big Sister’s evening cape

capelet.jpg

A true gem of a pattern described as an "angora tippet" from the early 1950s. Originally knitted in Patons Beryl Angora 4ply wool, this version uses a mixed fibre mohair yarn which knits to a 4ply tension.

Instructions

With No. 8 needles, cast on 338 stitches loosely, and work 4 rows stocking stitch starting with a knit row.

**Next (eyelet) row: K2 *wool forward, K2tog.; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2.
Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.**

Make hem - on next row by knitting 1st from the needle together with 1st from the cast-on edge. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Repeat sections from ** to ** once more.
Make another hem on the next row, but this time instead of knitting the sts together with the cast on row, you pick up and knit into a previous row as follows:- taking a spare double pointed (or circular) needle, pick up 338 sts along back of work, 4 rows below the row of eyelet holes; now knit 1st from the needle together with 1st from the spare needle.
[Editor's note: this can be tough as the picked up sts are very tight. I used one double pointed needle and picked up the 338 sts in sections as I went along the row].

Next row: wrong side facing, K4, * P30, K30; repeat from * to last 34 sts; P30, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat these 2 rows 6 times more and then the 1st row again.
[Editor's note: If you need to lengthen the cape, here would be the time to consider it].

Start shaping
Next row: right side facing, K4, (K2tog, K13) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P28, K28) 5 times, P28, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (316 sts).

Next row: K4, (K2tog, K12) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P26, K26) 5 times, P26, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (294 sts).

Next row: K4, (K2tog, K11) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P24, K24) 5 times, P24, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (272 sts).

Continue in this way, decreasing 22 sts on next and every following 6th row, (remembering you will be working 1st fewer after the K2tog on each decrease row) until 96 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you need to lengthen the cape, consider it again throughout these decreases; instead of decreasing every 6th row you could decrease on the 8th row a couple of times - adding 4 exra rows - or as many times as you need.].
Change to No. 11 (smaller) needles and work 8 rows in pattern;
[Editor's note: another chance to lengthen the cape if you have a swan-like neck!].
break wool and leave sts on a spare needle.

Neckband
With No. 11 needles, cast on 96 stitches, and work 4 rows stocking stitch starting with a knit row.
**Next (eyelet) row: K2 *wool forward, K2tog.; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2. Work 5 rows straight in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.**
Make a hem on the next row, exactly as given for the first hem on the lower edge.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Repeat sections from ** to ** once more.
Now make a second hem on the next row, exactly as given for the second hem round the lower edge.
Next row: wrong side facing, K4, (P8, K8) 5 times; P8, K4.
Next row: knit.

Join neckband and main body

Place the needle with the neck sts and the spare needle with the body sts together, with right sides (facing each other) together, and cast off the two sets of stitches together.
[Editor's note: to cast off together, you knit together 1 st from one needle, and one from the other, and pass the knitted sts on the RH needle over each other as usual for casting off].

Making up
Press the cape only very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
[Editor's note: you don't want to flatten out the pattern sts or the wool texture].
Work a row of double crochet (that is, US single crochet) up both front edges, then a row of slip sts, taking care to leave the picot hems free.
Sew on hook and eye below the hems at the neck edge on the wrong side of the work. Sew on two decorative buttons at the neck edge, as seen in the photograph.

capelet.jpg


The detail shows the mixture of stocking stitch and garter stitch gored panels, which gives the shoulder cape such a perfect drape. The hem is formed by a double folded picot edging, which is reproduced at the neck.


Materials

Original pattern calls for 2 oz angora wool.
This equates to just over 50g.

One pair each of number 8 and number 11 needles.
One crochet hook, number 13.

Two decorative gold buttons, and hook and eye for fastening at the neck.

Tension

28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size fits all! However - I did lengthen the cape by about one inch overall, as I found that although the tension was as stated in sts per inch, the length seemed shorter than depicted.

A word on the wool

I used a vintage wool from Pingouin called Volutes (80% acrylic 20% mohair), which I chose from my stash mainly for its rich colour. It knits to a tension of 23sts x 34rows on No. 11-12 (3-2½mm) needles, thus I knitted the cape on smaller needles than the pattern stated to achieve the right tension. I think the cape really needs to be knitted in a true luxury yarn, such as angora, or cashmere. Rowan's Kidsilk Haze could be suitable but the smallest tension on No. 10 needles is quoted as 25sts to 4in.

capelet_original.jpg

December 2006

Father George’s slippersocks

Men's slippersocks in 2 colours. I have also knitted a 3 colour version to use up wool oddments. I did try to knit these completely in the round to avoid seams but found it almost impossibly complex to do the fair-isle over only half the round - so I would stick to the instructions as given

Instructions

With No. 12 needles and main shade (M) cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.
Work in k3, p3 rib for 8 rows.
Change to number 10 needles.

Commence pattern as follows:

Rnd 1: Change to contrast colour (C) and knit all sts.
Rnds 2-8: Work in k3, p3 rib, as set.
Rnd 9: Change to colour M and knit all sts.
Rnds 10-12: Work in k3, p3 rib, as set.
Rnd 13: Joining in colour C, *k1 M, k1 C; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 14: *k1 C, k1 M; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 15-16: Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Rnd 17: Continue with M only, *k3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * to end. [Editor's note: this strange row is a k3 p3 rib avoiding purl sts while changing colour].
Rnds 18-20: Work in k3, p3 rib, as previously set.

These 20 Rows form the pattern.

Work top of foot as follows:

Break off M and slip the first 16 sts of the round on to a spare dpn, and slip the last 13 sts on to a second spare dpn. [Editor's note: these can be your No. 12 needles if required].
Continue knitting on the centre 31 sts over 2 No. 10 needles in shade C; commence the pattern rows as before, adjusting the pattern as follows:

Row 1: Using C knit all sts.
Row 2: p2, * k3, p3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: k3, p2.
Row 3: k2, * p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: p3, k2.
Row 4: as row 2.
Continue with the rib, working a single knit row every time you change colour. Set the fair-isle pattern as follows:
Row 13: Join in C, *k1 M, k1 C; repeat from * to last st, k1 M.
Row 14: *p1 C, p1 M; repeat from * to last st, p1 C.
Rows 15-16: Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Row 17: Using M only: k1, p1, *k3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 sts: k3, p1, k1.
Row 18: k2, * p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts: p3, k2.
Work 2 more rib rows in M to complete the 20 row pattern.

Now work one more pattern set of 20 rows, and then the first 8 rows again, decreasing 1st at the end of the last row, (30 sts).
[Editor's note: make any measurement adjustments here].

Shape toe:

Using M only, continue in stocking stitch, (one row knit, one row purl), decreasing 1 st (k2 tog) at each end of the next, and every alternate row, until 14 sts remain. Leave these sts on a safety pin.

Make the heel:

Return to the remaining 29sts; place both sets together on one needle, and continue to work on them in st st, using colour M.
Next row: k2tog tbl, k12, inc in next st, k12, k2tog. (28 sts)
[Editor's note: this instruction increases a stitch by knitting into the front and back of a st. This produces a tiny bar, visible across the newly created st. If you want an invisible increase then you "make 1" by picking up the strand between two sts and knitting into the back of it - this twists the strand and keeps the new st tight. This type of increase is often used for berets or tams as it is completely invisible; you cannot hide a decrease in the same way. If you use this method here then the row above will read:
Next row: k2tog tbl, k12, make 1 st, k13, k2tog. (28 sts)].

Next row: purl.
Continue decreasing one st at each end of every alternate row, until 14 sts remain.
Now begin to increase one st at each end of every alternate row, until there are 30 sts.

Continue in st st until the foot is the same length as the top.
[Editor's note: remember any measurement adjustments you made before].
Shape toe as given for the top.

Making up.

Graft the two sets of 14 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting, otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Press the work lightly with a hot iron using a damp cloth.
Sew up the heel seams and the seams on the sides of the foot.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

2 x 50g skeins of main shade and 1 x 50g contrast in double knitting wool.

Two sets of 4 double pointed needles, Nos. 10 and 12.

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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