Home

Weblog

Knitalong

Pattern of
the Month

On the Needles
(...and Off the Needles)

Stitchcraft

Vintage Patterns

About the
Idle Hands


Archive entry for 2018

« 2017 | Main

August 2018

The Master Touch

BoldColourSweater.jpg

A summer setting with summer colours for this man's sweater in double knitting. Original was knitted in pure wool but there are many cotton blend yarn options in exciting colours that you could use instead.
Perfect for that Indian summer.

Instructions.

Sweater is worked in intarsia technique using smaller balls of yarn wound onto bobbins. Instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 114/118/122 stitches, and work 15 rows k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of the knit stitches on every row to give a twisted rib.
Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Editors note: If you don't want to make this type of hem then just make the ribbed welt as long as you would like (15 rows or shorter - or longer) then do the increase row and start the pattern as below.

Next row: purl, increasing 6/8/10 stitches evenly across.
[120 / 126 / 132 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and winding 5 lengths of contrast B yarn
off on to bobbins for each stripe, work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K10 / 11 / 12 M; k4 B; * k20 / 21 / 22 M, k4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, k10 / 11 / 12 M.
2nd row: P10 / 11 / 12 M; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 M, p4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 M.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 4 times more, then 1st row again.
Break M and B yarns.

Join in yarn C, and working with 5 lengths of M yarn on bobbins for stripes, continue thus:

12th row: P10 / 11 / 12 C; p4 M; * p20 / 21 / 22 C, p4 M; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 C.
13th row: K10 / 11 / 12 C; k4 M; * k20 / 21 / 22 C, k4 M; repeat from * 3 times more, k10 / 11 / 12 C.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Break C and M yarns.

Join in yarn M, and using 5 bobbins of B yarn for stripes, continue thus:

20th row: as 2nd row.
21st row: as 1st. row.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Break M yarn.

Join in yarn W:

24th row: P10 / 11 / 12 W; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 W, p4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 W.
25th row: K10 / 11 / 12 W; k4 B; * k20 / 21 / 22 W, k4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, k10 / 11 / 12 W.

Break W yarn.

Rejoin M, and repeat 2nd then 1st rows in that order 6 times more.

Break M yarn.

Join in C.

38th row: P10 / 11 / 12 C; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 C, p4 B; repeat from * 3 times more, p10 / 11 / 12 C.

Break C yarn.

These 38 rows form the pattern. Join in M, and work straight continuing the pattern sequence to the end of the 32nd / 32nd / 36th row of the 3rd pattern.

Keeping pattern correct, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 100 / 104 / 108 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 25 / 25½ / 26 inches, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulders by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows, then 8 / 10 / 12 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave remaining 36 stitches on a stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Continue in pattern and work straight until front measures 22 / 22½ / 23 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: K37 / 39 / 41, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Working on first 37 / 39 / 41 stitches, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 32 / 34 / 36 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back ending at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and every following alternate row, until 8 / 10 / 12 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight. Cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre 26 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 37 / 39 / 41 stitches, work to end.

Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 60 stitches, and work 15 rows k1/p1 rib, as for back.

Next row: Purl, increasing 2 / 4 / 6 stitches evenly across the row.
[62 / 64 / 66 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and continue in pattern, joining in lengths of yarn B as required.

1st row: K5 M; k4 B; * k20 / 21 / 22 M, k4 B; repeat from * once more, k5 M.
2nd row: P5 M; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 M, p4 B; repeat from * once more, p5 M.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 4 times more, then 1st row again, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 8th row.
Break M yarn.

Join in C.

Next row: P5 C; p4 B; * p20 / 21 / 22 C, p4 B; repeat from * once more, p5 C.
Break C wool.

Join in M, and continue in pattern as for back, starting with 1st pattern row, and increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row from last increase until there are 90 / 92 / 94 stitches.

Work straight until 7 / 7 / 11 rows have been worked after 3rd W stripe.

Keeping pattern correct, shape top by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 52 / 48 / 52 remain. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 / 24 / 24 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neck Border:
With No 10 needles and main shade M, start at left shoulder on front and with right side facing, pick up and knit 27 stitches down left side of neck, k26 from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 27 stitches up right side of neck, k36 from stitch-holder. [116 sts]

Work 15 rows in twisted rib as given for welt on back.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder and neck ribbing. Fold neck ribbing in half to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position all round.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, matching patterns on all seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
15/16/16 x 1oz balls in blue main shade (M);
4/4/4 oz in cornflower blue (B);
4/5/5 oz in charcoal (C);
1/1/2 oz in white (W).

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Stitch holders and plastic bobbins

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
37-38/39-40/41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25½/26/26½ inches;
sleeve seam:
18/18½/19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
M: main blue colour
B: cornflower
C: charcoal
W: white

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons pure wool double knitting

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

July 2018

Colourful Kit Bag

KitBag3.jpg

Kit bags are yet another thing I have a weakness for; I still have and use a floral one I bought from the Gap at its flagship store in Richmond in the 1980s. I think it stems from when I was a little girl finding my Father's military kit bag in the attic with "Delhi" and "Bombay" stenciled* on it - conjuring all kind of exotic ideas and possibilities. [All us kids also used this kit bag for camping with the Scouts and Guides in those days].

Kit bags are a bit impractical for any activity other than that for which they were designed, but smaller ones can be used more successfully as hand bags. This one seems to be of a more useful size, and you can really make it to any size you feel like. If you use "any thickness" of yarn as suggested then even the size of the base is really up to you. Designed towards the end of WW2, in an era of extreme shortages - where even the manufacture of yarn was restricted never mind the rationing - it is made from "oddments" or "pulled back" wool. The paper the pattern was printed on is flimsy in the extreme and there are sympathetic references everywhere to the inability to source the materials required.

* As well as the destinations, there was also my Father's name, army number, and unit stenciled on his kit bag, and I remember being amazed that he could just recite it without thinking - when in fact his army days were not so very far distant then and of course the only thing you were ever obliged to reveal were "name, rank, and number" - so not so surprising other than to a tiny child who suddenly had a glimmer of an idea that her Father had a life before she existed.

Instructions.

The bag is really a free format design and quite simple to make. It's the details that can make it rather splendid.
The base is made as a reinforced cup shape (in leather or felt) with a base and short sides (border) - not so obvious but seen as blue in the picture.

Base:

[Editor's note: Since you are working to a non-specified tension, you might want to do the crochet part first and make the base to fit accordingly.]

Cut 2 circles of felt, one 8½ inches, the other 10 inches in diameter.
Cut 2 circles of cardboard, both 8½ inches in diameter.
Place both cardboard circles together on top of the large felt circle; turn felt over on to top of circle and stitch from one side to the other across centre, pulling stitches taut. Place second felt circle over this and slip-stitch in place.

Border

Cut a piece of felt 9 inches wide and 27 inches long; then a strip of cardboard 26 inches long and 4 inches wide.
Wrap felt round cardboard so as to cover both sides, oversewing the edges neatly and not touching the stiffening. Close the whole border to form a ring; place over base, and stitch firmly all round.

Crochet top

With double wool, make 140 chain and close to form a ring.

[Editor's note: Or *not* with double wool - as you prefer and depending on the thickness of the yarn you are using; in fact of you really are using scraps of different thicknesses you might use some of them double and some not. In the 1940s, sweaters were generally made in fingering (thin) yarn so the assumption would have been that this is what you would have had to work with.
Now would also be a good time to check out your tension - albeit in a free format kind of a way - does 140 chain look like it will go round your base? There is something to be said for maybe making your base after you have done the crochet top so you can make it to fit.]

1st round: Make 3 chain to form first treble, then work 1 chain, 1 treble all round, and link up with first treble.
2nd round
: 3 ch, then 1 treble in 1 treble all round, linking up with first treble.

Repeat 2nd round for about 8 or 9 inches, changing colour as required.

Now start decreasing by missing a tr 4 times evenly in round.
Continue to decrease, thus every round until 100 trebles remain.

Divide the work so that you have 36 trebles for back and front with 14 at each side. Work 12 rows of trebles on each of the 36 tr.
Finish off.

Turn down each of these 2 (36 treble) top hems and slip a piece of cardboard into each to stiffen before finally stitching.

Handles

With double wool make 70 chain and join to form a circle.
Work 3 rounds of trebles and fasten off.
Make another the same, then stitch each over a circle of old lengths of wool.

[Editor's note: You are essentially using the yarn as stuffing for the handles.]

To Make Up

Stitch crochet top to edge of base on inside of it, making it very firm. Sew handles firmly to stiffened tops.

Make a length of crochet chain with a small tassel at each end to thread through open sides at each side of handle.

Adaptations

ColourfulKitBag2.jpg

I was sufficiently smitten with this that I actually made one up for myself, with some adaptations of my own.

Firstly I did stick with the idea of using oddments I already had, but I used mostly chunky yarns so I did not have to work with the yarn doubled - which can be a bit of a nuisance when doing crochet, even though many old and new patterns seem to suggest it. As I selected my yarns based on colour, some of them were used double to achieve the thickness I wanted.

I also changed the stitch - I used a 4mm hook with my chunky yarn, and worked in double crochet (American single crochet) throughout instead of treble crochet in order to achieve a firmer fabric; trebles provide a moderately open fabric, which, even with a lining, was not the effect I wanted. If you want to do that yourself, bear in mind that working with dc is not as quick; however, I find crochet in general works up very quickly (as well as thicker) when compared with knitting.

[Editor's note: Worth noting here that although I settled on using chunky yarn, in my opinion, the original fingering (or 4 ply) yarn is about equivalent to an Aran or worsted weight yarn when used double; I say "in my opinion" as opinions do differ on this.

For the base, I used a rather thick leather (about 2mm) which was tough to work but made up surprisingly well. I bought it from leather4craft's selection of offcuts on eBay - but it did prove fairly expensive for all that. You could use a thin leather, or PVC, or recycled leather (which I found very easy to work with in the past) in which case you can treat it much like the felt although easing it may not be quite so easy.
If you choose thick enough leather, you might want to do away with the reinforcements of the cardboard, which is what I did, but I did line the inside of the whole bag with fabric.

ColourfulKitBag5.jpg

ColourfulKitBag3.jpg

I made the base to be an oval shape to suit the offcut of leather I had. I just took a rectangle about 12 by 8½ inches and rounded the corners (using a dinner plate as a guide), then attached the border in that shape; about ½ inch was used all round for the overlapping seam which gave a circumference fairly close to the original 9 inch circular base.
I made my crochet ring - in chunky yarn - to fit the shape (about 125-130 chain, or about 30 inches). The flattened circular shape actually matches the flattened effect of the top fastening and handles and I had to take that into account when positioning the handle flaps, for which I made rudimentary leather handles

Materials

Oddments of wool, any shade or ply.

A medium-sized crochet hook.
Corrugated paper or cardboard for base and handles.

Felt or leather for the base.
"Felt was used for the original, but it is scarce now."
("now" being 1944)

Tension

Dependent on the yarn and hook you use.

Size matters

The base of the bag is designed to be about 8½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

I used some tough carpet wools in combination with any chunky yarns I could find in the right colours. I used a relatively smaller hook than usual for chunky in order to keep the fabric firm - and carpet-like.

I have seen some crochet work for sale at Woolfest using Herdwick wool which I liked a lot. It was similarly firm, making self- supporting small boxes. [I was less keen to try that out myself as I felt it would be quite tough on the hands.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Belt3.jpg

So by now I expect you are thinking "...but hey! - what about that extremely snazzy and attractive belt she is wearing? where can I buy that?".
Well - good news! it's not a purchased item at all - it's a one-of-a-kind hand-crafted item you can make yourself! Here's how:

Instructions.

Again the materials are designed to be "make do and mend" oddments of old pulled-back knitting wool in any ply and any shade, worked with a medium-sized crochet hook.
You also need a piece of (faux or real) leather, felt or suitable material for the backing.

Each circle is made separately:
First collect together your most disreputable ends of wool and join them, a few strands at a time, to make the foundation over which the circles are crocheted.

Now make 6 chain and join into a circle closely.
1st round: Work 12 dc into ring, working over the foundation of the old wool.
2nd and 3rd rounds: 2 dc into 1 dc all round.
Pull this foundation from time to time to see that the circle keeps its proper shape and is flat.

Break foundation and working wool and finish off neatly.

[Editor's note: The intention here is to achieve a fairly solid roundel by working your stitches over a core of old yarn - as you might do in stumpwork embroidery or making a corded buttonhole. Obviously you can do as many rounds as you like to achieve the appropriate size.]

Arrange the 15 circles for front of belt as shown in photograph, and stitch to foundation material cut to shape.
Work 4 crosses in the centre spaces.
Six circles are used to belt round the back, and these are stitched to separate circles of foundation material and then stitched together so that they overlap. J
Join another 6 for the second side, then make a hook-and-eye fastening at the back.

June 2018

Flower Power

SunHat3.jpg

Instructions

Note: Yarn is used double throughout, and the hats are made using a variation of double crochet:
Instead of working under the two loops at the top of each stitch as for
ordinary double crochet, insert the hook into the back loop only of the
stitch, ie, between the front and back loops at the top of the double crochet of the previous round, then into the top of the upright loop at the back and to the left of this double crochet, then complete the stitch as for an ordinary double crochet.

Basic Hat

Make 3 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch (ss) in 1st chain.
1st round: 1 ch, to count as first dc, work 5dc into circle. Join with ss to first ch. [6 sts]
2nd round: 1 ch, to count as first dc, 1 dc into same place, work 2 dc into each dc to end, remembering to work over the two separate threads. [12 sts]

Do not join after this round, but carry on working in continuous rounds, making a spiral. This will be easy if you mark the begninning of the next
round with a coloured thread so that you do not lose your place.
3rd round: Continue in pattern as given above, working (2 dc into next st, one dc into next st) to end. [18 sts]
4th round: Continue in pattern, working (2 dc into next st, one dc into each of the next 2 sts) to end. [24 sts]

Continue in pattern, increasing 6 stitches in every round in this way until there are 66 stitches.

Continue working in rounds of double crochet without shaping for a further 3½ inches (9cm).

For the basic hat - fasten off at this point. You can then decorate as required.

Daisies

Make one small and one large daisy to sew on the basic hat. You should use a smaller crochet hook (2½ -3mm) and a single strand of the 4ply yarn.

Small daisy:
Make 7ch.
Join with a ss to first ch to form circle.
1st round: 3ch, work 17tr into circle. Join with a ss to third of first 3ch.
[18tr]
2nd round: * 3ch, miss next 2tr of previous round, 1 ss into next tr, repeat from * 4 times more, 3ch. Join with a ss to first of first 3ch.
[6 loops].
3rd round: Into each 3ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 3tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.
[Editors note: This makes shell shapes for the petals..]

Fasten off.

Large daisy:

Make 11ch.
Join with a ss to first ch to form circle.
1st round: 3ch to count as first tr, work 31tr into circle. Join with a ss to 3rd of first 3ch. [32tr]
2nd round: * 4ch, miss 3tr of previous round, 1ss into next tr, repeat from * 6 times more, 4ch, miss 3tr. Join with a ss to first of first 4ch.
[8 loops]
3rd round: Into each 4ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 3tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.
[8 petals]
4th round: * 4ch, 1ss into back loop of st on second round between next 2 petals, repeat from * 7 times more, joining last ss into first of first 4ch.
[Editors note: This creates a double row of petals.]

5th round: Into each 4ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 5tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.

[Editors note: If you want to create a medium sized flower you can stop here and fasten off - otherwise continue with 2 more rounds.]

6th round: * 5ch, 1ss into back of st on 4th round between next 2 petals, repeat from * 7 times more, joining last ss into first of first 5ch.
7th round: Into each 5ch loop work (1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 5dtr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc). Join with a ss to first dc.
Fasten off.

White hat

This hat was made using raffia, using thread single throughout with a
No 5 (5½mm) crochet hook. The crown is worked as for the basic hat in double crochet. Instead of fastening off after working the 3½ inches (9cm), work a further round of eyelet holes to slot ribbon through:
work one treble into alternate double crochet with one chain between each.
Complete the hat with 2 double crochet worked into each chain space, and thread ribbon through the holes if desired.

Granny squares hat

Using a No 6 (5mm) crochet hook and double yarn, work crown as given for basic hat in double crochet pattern until there are 72 stitches. Fasten off.
Make 6 granny squares with 3 rounds in each, using the same crochet hook and having the yarn double throughout as follows:

Make 6 chain. Insert hook from front to back into first chain, yarn round hook and draw loop through chain and loop on hook in one movement. One slip stitch (ss) ss has been worked to join ch into a circle or ring.

1st round: 3ch to count as first tr, 2tr into circle working under ch, 2ch, work (3tr into circle, 2ch) 3 times. Join with ss to third of first 3ch.
2nd round: 2ch, work (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into first 2ch space to form the corner, * 1ch, work (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into next 2ch space, repeat from * twice more. Join with ss to second of first 2ch.

3rd round: 3ch, 2tr into first ch space to the left of ss join of previous round, 1ch, * work (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into 2ch space, 1ch, 3tr into 1ch space, 1ch, repeat from * twice more, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) into last 2ch space, 1ch. Join with ss to third of first 3ch.
Break off yarn, and fasten off, (ie draw end through loop on hook and draw up tightly).

You can work the square in a single colour or in multiple different colours, fastening off one colour and starting another at the end of each round.

Join the 6 squares into a circle. With main colour work 72 dc along
one edge, then work another round in double crochet.
Sew this edge in place around the crown.
Complete the lower edge with 2 more rounds of double crochet.

To Make Up

Sew in ends and embellish as desired referring to the photos:

- sew daisies to hat, or,
- thread ribbon through eyelet holes, or,
- sew granny squares into a circular band and attach to hat crown, or,
- make a plait long enough to fit round lower edge of hat and sew in place. (Use oddments of 3 colours, taking about 20 strands of each).

Materials

75g in 4ply fingering yarn, used double.
[Plus oddments for any trimmings].

A No 2 (7mm ) crochet hook

Tension

10 stitches and 7 rows measures 2 inches (5cm) over brim pattern.

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
htr: half treble
tr: treble
dtr: double treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

SunHat5.jpg

May 2018

Day Blouse

DayBlouse.jpg

A pretty knitted "blouse" - spoken with a soft "s" as in "mouse" I suspect (maybe you pronounce it like that anyway). Presumably you could go wild and try wearing it other than in daylight hours.

Instructions.

Instructions for larger size is given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

**
Using the pair of No 13 (2¼mm) needles cast on 117 (127) stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side facing): * p2, k3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
2nd row: * k2, p3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 3 inches ending with 2nd row.

Now increase as follows:

Next row: * p1, pick up horizontal thread before next stitch and purl into back of it, p1, k3; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, pick up and purl horizontal thread as before, p1. [141 (153) sts]

Continue in k3, p3 rib until work measures 8 () inches from start. With right side facing, change to stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd (5th) and every following 6th row until there are 153 (163) stitches.
Continue straight until work measures 11½ (12) inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 9 (9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row until 121 (131) stitches remain.
Mark each end of the last row with a coloured thread.
**

Now continue straight in stocking stitch until armholes measure 6 () inches from markers. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (11) stitches at the beginning of the following 8 rows; cast off remaining 41 (43) stitches.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **. [121 (131) sts]

Next row: Purl.

With right side facing, divide for neck as follows:
Next row: knit 60 (65), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare
needle or stitch holder.
Continue on first 60 (65) stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following knit row until 40 (44) stitches remain.
Work straight until armhole measures 6 () inches from marker.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 (11) stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 61 (66) stitches, cast off centre stitch and knit to end.
Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Making Up

Press only the stocking stitch parts on the wrong side under a damp
cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

With the pair of No 13 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 148 (156) stitches all round each armhole.
Work 7 rows in k2/p2 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join side seams.

Collar:
Using the set of four No 13 needles, or circular needle to facilitate working, continue for collar as follows:
Start by casting on 30 (30) stitches for the bow, then on to the same needle and with right side facing, pick up and knit 70 (75) stitches up right side of neck; on to the 2nd needle pick up and knit 41 (43) stitches across the back of the neck; on to the 3rd needle pick up and knit 70 (75) stitches down left side of neck, then finally cast on 30 (30) stitches for the other end of the bow. [241 (253) sts]


Divide the stitches equally on the 3 needles and continue as follows:

Next row: Purl.

* Continue in stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the following 6 knit rows, then decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the following 6 knit rows*. Repeat from * to * once more.
Next row: Purl.
Cast off.

Fold the collar in half with right side inside, then join points and side edge of the cast-on stitches for bow. Turn right side out and press, then fold rest of collar in half all round neck to wrong side and slip-hem in position. Press seams and collar.

Slip ends of collar through scarf ring to form a bow as shown in photograph.

Altering the size

It would be feasible to increase the size by knitting in a thicker yarn - but you do need to make a swatch and do some arithmetic. Even changing to a 4 ply with 3¼mm needles could change your chest size from a modest 34 to over 40 inches.

Materials

6 (6) ozs 3 ply.

A pair of No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

A set of 4 No 13 (2¼mm) needles (or a circular) for the collar.

One scarf ring.

Tension

36 sts to 4 ins in garter stitch on No 13 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-36) inch chest; length from top of shoulders 18¾ (19¾) inches

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2018

Sweetheart Sweaters

SweetheartSweaters.jpg

Hearts and flowers in the bluebell season.

Instructions for Crew Neck Version.

Instructions for 5 sizes - larger sizes are shown in brackets.

Charts

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

The chart is included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 61 [65, 71, 77, 81] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 row for 5cm ending with a a first row (wrong side facing
for next row).

Next row: Rib 8 [4, 8, 10, 5] m1; (rib 15 [8, 11, 19, 10], m1) 3 [7, 5, 3, 7] times, rib to end. (65 [73, 77, 81, 89] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work 34 rows in pattern from the chart, working the first and last 8 [12, 14, 0, 4] stitches of each row as indicated for each size, and working the 16 stitch repeat pattern in between.

After completing the first 34 rows, work a further 6 [18, 26, 38, 40] rows in the pattern thus ending with a 6th [18th, 26th, 4th, 6th] pattern row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

3rd, 4th and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row.
( - [-, 65, 69, 77] sts).
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back until 37 [43, 45, 47, 49] stitches remain in raglan shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, divide for neck as follows:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 11 [13, 14, 14, 15], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 12 [14, 15, 15, 16] stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every alternate row until 6 [8, 8, 8, 7] stitches remain.

Work 1 [1, 0, 0, 1] rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge only on he next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Next row: k2tog, and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 11 [13, 13, 15, 15] stitches on a length of yarn or stitch holder, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Work to match first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 31 [31, 39, 39, 39] stitches and work in rib as on back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm, ending with a 1st row and wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: Rib 8 [8, 10, 10, 10] m1; rib 15 [15, 19, 19, 19], m1; rib to end. (33 [33, 41, 41, 41] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, and starting with a 19th row, work in pattern as for 1st [1st, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd] size of the Back at the same time shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [7th, 3rd, 7th, 3rd] and every following 6th [7th, 12th, 14th, 12th] row until there are 49 [49, 53, 53, 57] stitches, taking the increase stitches into the pattern.

Materials

50g balls DK in 3 colours: main shade (MS) plus 2 contrasts:
3 [4, 4, 5, 5] M;
1 [1, 1, 2, 2] C1*;
1 [1, 1, 1, 1], C2.
* may be only one ball of C1 required for all sizes if working the collared version.

Pair each No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 22 [24, 26, 28, 30] inches, (56 [61, 66, 71, 76]cm) actual measurement allows 1-2 inches of ease;
length from top of shoulders: 12 [14, 15½, 17½, 19] inches, (30 [36, 40, 45, 48]cm);
sleeve seam: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.


A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Moorland Tweed/Shetland double knitting. Moorland was 100% wool with a suggested yardage of 137 yds (125m) - although this was not printed on the ball bands at that time.

A similar substitute might be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Continue in pattern until sleeve seam measures: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm), ending with the same pattern row as on the Back at the start of the raglan shaping, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 4th row until [33, 37, 35, 37] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 7 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a safety pin.

Making Up and instructions for crew neck

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglans, leaving left back raglan open.

Make Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and MS, k7 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches down left side of neck, k11 [13, 13, 15, 15] from front, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches up right side of neck, k7 from right sleeve, then 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] from the Back, increasing 1 stitch at the centre.
(73 [77, 87, 91, 93] sts).

Starting with a 2nd row, work in rib as for the Back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm.
Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off loosely in rib.

Join remaining raglan and Crew Neck seam.
Fold Crew Neck in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Making Up and instructions for collar

Work as for Crew Neck Version but casting off stitches loosely at back of neck, front of neck, and top of sleeves.

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglan, side, and sleeve seams.

Make collar:
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 73 [77, 81, 85, 89] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more then the 1st row again.
Next row: Rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 4 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 6 stitches, turn.

Continue thus until the 2 rows "sl1, rib to last 16 stitches, turn" have been worked.
Next row: sl1, rib to end

Continue in rib across all stitches until Collar measures 3cm at the side edge.

Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off evenly in rib.
Sew cast-off edge of collar in position all round neck as in photograph.

Press seams.

March 2018

Spring Cushions

LeafCushions.jpg

Simple yet effective cushions using stylised leaf motifs.
Cushions can be an opportunity to really give full rein to your creative side with little investment risk - in either time or materials. If (like me) you feel you lack a natural artistic streak of your own, you can find inspiration almost anywhere. Any small motifs from embroidery sources can be used for knitting - but make sure you check the tension you need to aim at as it will dictate the resulting size of the cushion.

Instructions.

These cushions are created using a limited colour palette and an intarsia technique. Only two colours are used where the motifs are worked, which is a good idea to start with - both stylistically and technically.

Assuming you are familiar with the idea of working from charts, as usual, the charts show the right, or knitted, side of the work, reading knit rows from right to left; every alternate row worked in purl and read from left to right. The yarn not in use is carried loosely across the back of the fabric all the time, so it will be taken behind the stitches on a knitted row and in front of them on a purled row.

Ideally you need to keep within a maximum of about five or six stitches in each colour so that you don't have to carry the yarn not in use across too many stitches at the back of the work. It is feasible to carry the yarn across a greater number of stitches as long as you don't pull the yarn so tightly that it puckers your work.
[Editors note: When you are making actual garments with motifs, it is not good practice to leave large loops of yarn at the back as they tend to catch on buttons etc as you pull sweaters on and off (ask me how I know). With cushions like this it is less important as the wrong side of the work is enclosed and unlikely to be pulled once finished.]

The completed size of a motif, (and the entire design), will depend on the tension at which you are working. For example: with a tension of 20 stitches and 28 rows to 4 inches (10 cm), a motif worked over 15 stitches and 21 rows will form a square measuring 3 inches (7.5cm) by 3 inches (7.5cm). So you can do some simple working out to adapt any motifs to a design measuring the size you want.

If you are not so familiar with working from charts, this might be a good project to start out with. For consistency, the charts show each motif on a 23 stitch grid; the actual pattern repeat across the cushion is 24 stitches: each set of stitches on the chart is separated by one background stitch. The overall spacing or layout of the motifs is given by a written set-up row for each cushion, which is the first row on the charts.

Cushion 1

Worked in two colours with the same motif repeated evenly all over the cushion.

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (A), cast on 99 stitches, and work in stocking stitch throughout.

Work 4 rows in main shade (A).
Join in contrast colour (B) and start the leaf motifs by working from Chart A - set up the repeats working across the next row as follows:

Next row: k1 stitch in A, k1 stitch in B, (k23 stitches in A, k1 stitch in B) 4 times finishing the row with k1 stitch in A.

There is half a leaf at each end of the row, plus an extra stitch at each end of the work which will be used for seaming. So now continue in pattern from the chart, starting with the seam stitch followed by the centre stitch of the leaf. The overall pattern repeat is 24 stitches, 13 stitches for the leaf and 11 stitches between the leaves at the widest point.

Work the 40 pattern rows, followed by 8 rows in A only, twice, then work the 40 row pattern again followed by 4 rows in A.
[144 rows in all].
Cast off.


Cushion 2

Worked in 8 colours with stripes of colour and repeated motifs in 8 colours (A-H).

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (A), cast on 121 stitches, and work in stocking stitch throughout.

Work 2 rows using A, 1 row using B and 4 rows using A.

Motif stripe 1:
Start the first leaf pattern with a purl row following Chart B, set-up row as follows:

Next row: p12 stitches in A, (p1 stitch in B, p23 stitches in A) 4 times finishing the row with p1 stitch in B, p12 stiches in A.

Continue working from the Chart B until 38 rows have been completed.

Work plain stripes of 4 rows in A, 1 row in C, 1 row in D, and 4 rows in C.

Motif stripe 2:
Start the second leaf pattern with a purl row following Chart C, set-up row as follows:

Next row: p12 stitches in C, (p1 stitch in D, p23 stitches in C) 4 times finishing the row with p1 stitch in D, p12 stiches in C.

Continue working from Chart C until 33 rows have been completed.

Work plain stripes of 4 rows in C, 1 row in E, 1 row in F, and 4 rows in E.

Motif stripe 3:
Start the third leaf pattern with a knit row following Chart D, set-up row as follows:

Next row: k12 stitches in E, (k1 stitch in F, k23 stitches in E) 4 times finishing the row with k1 stitch in F, k12 stiches in E.

Continue working from Chart D until 30 rows have been completed.

Work plain stripes of 4 rows in E, 1 row in H, 1 row in E, and 4 rows in G.

Motif stripe 4:
Start the third leaf pattern with a knit row following Chart E, set-up row as follows:

Next row: k12 stitches in G, (k1 stitch in H, k23 stitches in G) 4 times finishing the row with k1 stitch in H, k12 stiches in G.

Continue working from Chart E until 37 rows have been completed.

Finally, work plain stripes of 4 rows in G, 1 row in H, 2 rows G.
[182 rows in all.]
Cast off.


Cushion 3

Worked in three colours (A-C) with different motifs repeated in bands across the cushion; the background and motif colours are constant, and the motif bands are separated by thin stripes of the third colour.

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and contrast colour C, cast on 99 stitches, and work in stocking stitch throughout.

Work 2 rows in contrast C, 4 rows in main shade A.

Motif stripe 1:
Start the first leaf pattern with a knit row following Chart F, set-up row as follows:

Next row: k2 stitches in B, (k23 stitches in A, k1 stitch in B) 4 times finishing the row with k1 stitch in B.

Here again there is half a leaf at each end of the cushion, so the pattern has been set to start with the centre stitch of a leaf, plus the seaming stitch at each end of the row.

Continue working from the Chart F until 38 rows have been completed.

Work plain stripes of 4 rows in A, 2 rows in C, and 4 rows in A.

Motif stripe 2:
Start the second leaf pattern with a knit row following Chart G, set-up row as follows (this set up row is exactly the same as for motif 1):

Next row: k2 stitches in B, (k23 stitches in A, k1 stitch in B) 4 times finishing the row with k1 stitch in B.

Again there is half a leaf at each end of the cushion, so the pattern has been set to start with the centre stitch of a leaf, plus the seaming stitch at each end of the row.

Continue working from the Chart G until the 27 rows of the pattern have been completed.

Work plain stripes of 4 rows in A, 2 rows in C, and 4 rows in A.

Motif stripe 3:
The third leaf pattern uses Chart D which is the same chart used in the second cushion printed above. So follow the Chart D BUT you start with a purl row and the set-up row has the half a leaf at each end of the cushion. So as for motifs 1 and 2 on this cushion, the pattern has been set to start with the centre stitch of a leaf, plus the seaming stitch at each end of the row. Set-up row is as follows:

Next row: p2 stitches in B, (p23 stitches in A, p1 stitch in B) 4 times finishing the row with p1 stitch in B.

Continue working from the Chart D until the 30 rows of the pattern have been completed.

Work plain stripes of 4 rows in A, 2 rows in C, and 4 rows in A.

Motif stripe 4:
The fourth pattern motif is the same one used in the first stripe of this cushion, so follow the same chart F that you used before. However this time you start the fourth leaf pattern with a purl row. Set-up row as follows:

Next row: p2 stitches in B, (p23 stitches in A, p1 stitch in B) 4 times finishing the row with p1 stitch in B.

Just as before, there is half a leaf at each end of the cushion, so the pattern has been set to start with the centre stitch of a leaf, plus the seaming stitch at each end of the row.

Continue working from the Chart F until 38 rows have been completed.

Work plain stripes of 4 rows in A, and 2 rows in C.
[175 rows in all].
Cast off.

Making up

All the cushions are made up of two identical pieces.
Sew two cushion pieces together on three sides.
Insert a cushion pad and sew up the fourth side.

Materials

Standard double knitting yarn in colours of your choice.

A pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Cushion 1:
200g in main shade; 100g in contrast.

Approximate size:
16 x 16 inches
(40 x 40cm)

Cushion 2:
100g in each of 8 colours.

Approximate size:
20 x 20 inches
(50 x 50cm)

Cushion 3:
200g in main shade; 100g in each of 2 contrast colours.

Approximate size:
16 x 19 inches
(40 x 48cm)

Tension

24sts x 36 rows to 4 inches (10cm) using No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Abbreviations:

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2018

Yellow Blazer

Blazer.jpg

I was told last autumn that red was definitely THE colour of the season, and then - after my wardrobe became impossibly bold - I was told that it was all about neutrals! Similarly last Spring I was told that yellow was the colour - just a splash or dash - and now apparently it is definitely THE colour for Spring.
Whatever you believe, this is a staple 50s jacket which you can knit in a single colour - entirely in yellow - or entirely without yellow. Whatever colour scheme you go for, make sure of those wonderful coordinating giant buttons before you start.

So: "Use a clear sharp sulphur yellow -- vivid contrast with white."

Instructions.

Instructions give for 2 sizes- larger size given in brackets thus ().
Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No 8 needles white yarn (W), cast on 104 (110) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch [that is: knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows throughout], ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): purl in the usual way.
These 2 rows mark the hemline.

With right side facing, continue straight in twisted stocking stitch until back measures 15 (15) inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of following 6 (8) knit rows. [82 (84) sts]

Work straight until back measures 23½ (23½) inches from hemline.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Cast off remaining 30 (32) stitches.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With white (W) yarn, cast on 24 (26) stitches and work about 3½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Cast on 35, p17, slip 1 purlways, purl to end. [79 (83) sts]

Continue in twisted stocking stitch as follows:
Next row: Knit to last 18 stitches, slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: purl. Rep. these 2 rows until front measures 5 inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Introduce pocket as follows:
Next row: k15 (16), cast off 24 (26), k22 (23), slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: Purl, purling across 24 (26) stitches of one pocket lining in place of those stitches cast off in the previous row.

Now continue straight in twisted stocking-stitch as before until front measures 15 (15) inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.

Continue in pattern shaping armhole and increasing 6 stitches in the border after the slipstitch as follows:

Next row: Cast off 5, knit to last 18 stitches, Slip 1 purlways, [increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, k3] 5 times, increase 1 as before, k2.
Break W yarn

Next row (wrong side facing): join in yarn Y, (k1, wool forward, slip 1 purlways, wool over needle] 11 times, k1 in Y; rejoin W and purl to end in W.
Next row: K2tog, knit to the slip stitch in W, slip 1 purlways, then in Y, [p1, wool back, k2tog through back loops, wool forward] 11 times, p1.
Next row: in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1 in Y, purl to end in W.
Note: Twist the wools on the wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Repeat the last 2 rows 5 (7) times more.
This completes armhole shaping.

Now continue straight until front measures 21½ inches from the hemline, keeping 23 stitches of border in twisted rib pattern in Y for revers as before.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 23 stitches in Y.
Break Y, then cast off 17 (19) stitches in W, purl to end in W.

Continue in twisted stocking stitch in W decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 (8) rows. [26 sts].
Work straight until front measures same as back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the following 4 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.

Right Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Cast on 35, k17, slip 1 purlways, k17, p44 (48) working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Purl in the usual way.

Work to correspond with left front reversing shapings and with the addition of 3 double buttonholes. First to come 3½ inches up from lower edge and remaining 2 at 5-inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole:
Next row (right side facing): k5, cast off 7, k5, slip 1 purlways, k5, cast off 7, knit to end.
Next row: Purl, casting on 7 over those cast off.

Your pocket row will read: (right side facing), k17, slip 1 purlways, k22 (23), cast off 24 (26), k15 (16).

The increase row before start of armhole will read: (right side facing), k2, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, [k3, increase 1 as before] 5 times, slip 1 purlways, knit to end.

On the next row start armhole shaping and introduce fancy rib in Y. as follows:
Cast off 5, purl to last 23 stitches in W, join in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1.

Sleeves:

With Y yarn, cast on 53 stitches.

1st row (wrong side facing): * k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways,won; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, wool back, k2togtbl, wfd; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
These 2 rows form the fancy rib pattern.

Continue in fancy rib for 3 inches ending with 2nd pattern row.

Continuing in pattern start to increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 93 stitches
Note: As the pattern is a multiple of 2 stitches keep increased stitches in stocking stitch until you have an extra 2 at each end, then take
them into the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 18 (19) inches from start of fancy rib pattern, ending with 2nd pattern row.

With wrong side facing, continue in pattern shaping top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 59 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 19 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing and yarn Y, pick up and k. 93 stitches all round neck, beginning and ending at the slipped-stitch of front borders.
Work 2½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, starting and ending with a purl row.
Shape by working short rows as follows:
Knit to the last 6 stitches, turn, purl to the last 6 stitches, turn; knit to last 10 stitches, turn; purl to last 10 stitches, turn; knit to last 14 stitches, turn; purl to last 14 stitches, turn; knit to last 18 stitches, turn; purl to last 18 stitches, turn.
Knit back to end picking up horizontal loop and knitting it together with
next stitch where work was turned to avoid a hole.

Next row: Purl, across all stitches, picking up horizontal loops in the same way.
Increase 28 stitches across next row as follows:
k5, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and
knitting into back of it, k4, increase 1 as before, [k3, increase 1 as before] 25 times, k4, increase 1 as before, k5.
[121 (121) sts]
Now with wrong side facing, change to fancy rib pattern as for sleeves and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with 2nd pattern row.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press stocking stitch parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Now make up double collar and double front borders as follows:
Fold collar and front borders in half with right side inside; join short sides of collar, then join cast-off edge of front facing to cast-off edge of collar on wrong side to form revers.
Turn right side out and press.
Now slip-hem inner edge of collar neatly all round neck on wrong side.

Slip-hem front facing in position on wrong side [note that the slipped stitch in the knitting marks the edge of the fold up the front edges].

Oversew loosely around the double buttonholes.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Turn under 1½ inches of stocking-stitch up to hemline all round lower
edge and slip-hem in position. Turn under 1½ inches all round
each sleeve and slip-hem on wrong side.

Catch down pocket linings, then with yarn W and (right side facing), pick up and knit 24 (26) stitches along cast-off edge of each pocket opening. Work 2 inches twisted stocking-stitch; cast off loosely.

Fold pocket tops in half to wrong side and slip-hem, then catch down sides of pocket tops to main work.

Press all seams and hems.
With crochet hook and yarn Y make 3 circles in dc to cover buttons. Sew circles firmly over buttons, then sew in position on left front.

Materials

Double Knitting:
11 (12) ozs in sulphur yellow (Y);
15 (16) ozs in white (W).

A pair each No 8 (4mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Three large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches over the twisted stocking stitch

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-37) inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 24 ins;
sleeve seam: 15½ (16½)inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

won: "wool over needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": bring the wool to the front of the work.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")
twisted stocking stitch is a variation whereby you knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows, and execute the purl rows as normal; this gives a texture to the knitting.

Crochet abbreviations:

dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Blazer2.jpg

It is interesting to note that this jacket is referenced as being a revamp of a previous model (which I have yet to find). This picture above is obviously how it was made up for the photo shoot - ie in a single colour. You can peer at the detail in the colour photo and pretty easily see that the yellow colour has been painted in after the event. I am keen on trying out changes to the photos - lightly tinting black and white pictures etc - but these changes would have been made by skillful application using a real air brush technique rather than Photoshop.

January 2018

Shetland folklore tunic

ShetlandFolkTunic.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn tunic in a double knitting weight yarn.

Although this pattern is from the seventies, it evokes a much earlier era to me. I remember my friend Sara having a cardigan just like this, (in colour and pom-poms), knitted by her Mother in the 1960s. I have had cardigan envy ever since. However - I am sure a tunic would suit me even better!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the yoke pattern from the chart, strand yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 241 [249, 257, 265] stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): (k1, p1) 23 times; k1, p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch with a coloured thread); p2togtbl, k1; (p1, k1) 68 [72, 76, 80] times; p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch as before); p2togtbl, k1; (p1. k1) 23 times.
2nd row: * p1, k1; rep from * to within 2 stitches of first marked st; sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to within 2 stitches of 2nd marked stitch, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to end.
Keeping continuity of rib, continue to decrease in this way working in stripes of a further 2 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D.

Next row: In D, cast off 38 stitches evenly in rib; in M, p9 [11, 12, 13] (including stitch on needle after cast off), p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 32 [34, 36, 38] times, p10 [10, 11, 12]; then in D, cast off remaining stitches in rib. [84 [90, 96, 102] sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and with M, work in stocking stitch starting with a knit row until back measures 6 inches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: Cast on 8, knit these stitches, knit to end, cast on 8. [100, 106, 112, 118].
Continue on these stitches and work 11 rows.

Shape sides as follows:
Next row: k9, k2togtbl, knit to last 11 stitches, k2tog, k9.
Work 11 rows.
Repeat the decrease row once more. [100, 102, 108, 114 sts].
Work straight until Back measures 17 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
‡‡

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more. [90, 94, 98, 102 sts].

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 86 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 0 [2, 4, 6] times more. [92 sts].

Shape neck by working short rows as follows:
1st row: k2tog, k28, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
2nd row: Cast off 8, purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.
4th row: Cast off 7, purl to end.
5th row: k2tog, knit to end.
6th row: Cast off 5, purl to end. [7 sts].

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following alternate row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows. [2 sts].
Next row: p2tog and fasten off.
Leave centre 32 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, and with
right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and M, cast on 42 [44, 46, 48] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib and stripes of 4 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D. [12 rows]

Continue in M until rib measures 3 inches, increasing across last row as follows : (rib 2, m1) 7 times; (rib 1, m1) 16 [18, 20, 22] times; (rib 2, m1) 5 times; rib 2. [70, 74, 78, 82 sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work straight until sleeve measures 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches measured at centre, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.

Repeat the last 4 rows 1 [2, 3, 4] times more. [64 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row. [60 sts]
Work 1 row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke

With right side facing, slip first 43 stitches of back on a length of yarn.

With circular or set of No 8 (4 mm) needles and M, knit the remaining 43 stitches from back, marking first of these stitches as the start of the rounds; knit 60 from sleeve, knit up 31 down left side of neck, knit 32 from front, knit up 31 up right side of neck, knit 60 from second sleeve, then finally knit 43 from length of yarn (or stitch holder). [300 sts]

Divide these stitches evenly on 3 of the set of needles.

Joining in D and L as required work the 50 rounds from the chart, repeating the 20 pattern stitches 15 times in each round and decreasing where indicated.
Work all rounds knit, reading chart from right to left.

On completion of the above rounds the number of stitches remaining will be:
17th round: 270 stitches.
21st round: 240 stitches.
31st round: 210 stitches.
35th round: 180 stitches.
45th round: 150 stitches.
49th round: 120 stitches.

Next round: in M, decrease 8 [8, 4, 4] stitches evenly. [112, 112, 116, 116 sts]

Make holes as follows:
Next round: In M, yfwd, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Work 1 round.
Break M.

Change to set of No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and in L, work 3 rounds.
Work holes as before for picot edging.
Work 2 rounds.
Cast off loosely.

Making Up

Omitting cuffs, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Use 30 inch lengths of yarn and a large sewing needle for make up, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.
Join armhole and sleeve seams.
Using a flat seam, sew side borders neatly in position catching border edges to cast-on stitches.
Join side seams to within 5½ inches of lower edge.
Fold picot hem at row of holes to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

In M, make 2 pompons.

Make Cord: Using 6 strands of M, make a twisted cord 45 in long. Thread through row of holes at neck. Sew a pompon to each end of cord.

Materials

6 [7, 7, 8] 50g balls Shetland DK in main shade (M) "Ocean Deep", plus 1 ball each in 2 contrasts:
"Heatherette" (D) and
"Snow White" (L)

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Sets of 4 each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or circulars.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97] cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 26 [26½,
27, 27½] inches, (66 [67, 69, 70] cm);
sleeve seam: 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches, (47 [47, 48, 48] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker than that but the tension given here suggests slightly thinner!

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

Helpful Stuff

Pattern Archive

Categories

Yarn Links

Fabric etc

Stuff to do

  • Little rabbits
  • Bayerische sock
  • V&A 1940s Patterns
  • Woven Knitting
  • Monkey Socks
  • Necktie Bag
  • Posh Gloves
  • Criss-cross coasters