Home

Weblog

Knitalong

Pattern of
the Month

On the Needles
(...and Off the Needles)

Stitchcraft

Vintage Patterns

About the
Idle Hands


Archive entry for November 2011

« October 2011 | Main | December 2011 »

November 2011

Fifties Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The third (and final) fair-isle design for November is a 1950s or early 60s cardigan in a double knitting weight yarn. No clues as to the original colour scheme here, and although for today it would seem appropriate to go with the grey palette, I am sure the original would have been more colourful.

Instructions

The Back and Fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Back and Fronts:

Using No. 10 (3¼mm) needles and light colour, cast on 146 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ ins.
Next row (wrong side): Rib 9; (increase in next stitch, rib 15) 8 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [155 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl
3rd row: K39, m1, k1, m1, k75, m1, kl, m1, k39.
4th row: Purl
5th and 6th rows: As 1st and 2nd
7th row: K40, m1, k1, m1, k77, m1, k1, m1, k40.
8th row: Purl
9th and 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd
11th row: K41, m1, k1, m1, k79, m1, k1, m1, k41.
12th row: Purl
13th and 14th rows: As 1st and 2nd

Continue increasing in this manner on next and every following 4th row until there are 183 sts.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 11½ ins, from beginning, finishing at end of a knit row.

Next row: P7, (increase in next stitch p12) 13 times, increase in next stitch, purlto end. [197 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 from Chart (odd rows knit, even rows purl), working bracketed repeat 7 times across row and odd stitch at end of
knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on Chart throughout.

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (17th row of chart): Pattern 44 cast, off 10, pattern 88 (there now being 89 sts. on needle after cast-off); cast off 10, pattern to end.
[Editors note: So you have 3 groups of sts on the needle - 44 then 89 then 44]

Proceed on first group of 44 sts. for first front as follows:

Keeping pattern correct by working rows 18 to 30 inclusive of Chart, shape armhole by decreasing 1 st. at armhole edge on next and every alternate row until 39 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows, thus completing pattern from Chart.

Using darker colour for remainder of front, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5 ins, from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at front edge.

Shape neck: by casting off 4 sts. at beg. of next row.
Decrease 1 st. at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 30 sts. remain.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 7 ins, from beg. of armhole shaping, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next and every alt, row until all sts. are cast off.

Rejoin wool to next group of 89 sts. and proceed for Back as follows:

Keeping pattern correct from Chart, shape armholes by decreasing 1 st at both ends of next and every alternate row until 81sts remain. Continue on these sts. until work matches first front up to shoulder shaping.
Shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next 6 rows.
Cast off all remaining sts.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of 44 sts. and complete to match first front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No. 10 needles and Light, cast on 50 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 inches.
Next row: Rib 5; (increase in the next stitch, rib 9) 4 times; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [55 sts]

Change to No. 7 needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 st. at both ends of 5th and every following 9th row until there are 73 sts.
Continue on these sts until work measures 15½ ins, from beginning finishing at the end of a knit row.

Next row: P3; (increase in the next stitch, p5) 11times; increase in the next stitch; purl to end. [85 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 inclusive from the chart, noting that bracketed repeat is worked 3 times across row, and odd st. at end of knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on chart throughout.

Keeping pattern correct from chart until 30th row of chart has been completed, and working remainder of sleeve in dark colour, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 43 sts remain, and then on every alternate row until 33 sts remain, and then on every following 3rd row until 29 sts remain.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Right Front Band:

Using No. 10 needles and light colour, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: K2; (p1, kl) 4 times; kl.
2nd row: (kl, p1) 5 times; kl.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row (make buttonhole): Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
6th row: Rib 4, cast on 3, rib to end.

Continue in rib working a buttonhole as on 5th and 6th rows on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole until 5 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Break off light colour and join in dark.
Still working buttonholes on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole as before, continue in Dark until 7 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Work 16 more rows.
Slip stitches on to a stitch holder.

Left Front Band:

Omitting buttonholes, work to match Right Front Band.

Neckband:

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulders of Back and Fronts.
Slip stitches from top of Right Front Band on to No 10 needle, with right side of work facing, using dark colour, k2, (p1, kl) 4 times, p1 across these sts., using same needle, knit up 71 sts round neck, slip sts. from top of Left Front Band on to No 10 needle, (p1, k1) 5 times across these sts, kl. [93 sts]

Next row: * k1, p1, rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: k2, * p1, kl, repeat, from * to last stitch kl.

Work 3 more rows in rib.
Make buttonhole on next 2 rows.
Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting k1/p1 rib, with wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges.
Omitting k1/p1 rib, press each piece very lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

"In order to preserve the lovely crepe appearance of Totem fabrics, these must be pressed very lightly as over-pressing will spoil the appearance of the finished fabric."

Using a flat seam for k1/p1 rib, and a back-stitch seam for remainder, join sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position. Flat stitch front bands into position.
Attach buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

12 oz in light colour and 6 oz in dark colour in double knitting yarn.

[Editors note: 1oz = 28g.
See "a word on the wool".]

Two No 10 (3¼mm) and two No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

21sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 34-36 inch bust. Length from shoulder to lower edge, 21¼ ins. Sleeve seam, 18 ins.

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
m1p: make one st by picking up loop between sts and purl into back of it.
kb: knit into back of stitch
pb: purl into back of stitch
tog: together
tbl: through back loops
inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch
dec:decrease by working 2 sts. together

"Stranding" in Fair Isle

In working designs using two or more colours, you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
Do not strand colours over more than 5 sts. When a loose thread must pass over more than 5 sts. weave it over and under the colour in use at centre point of the sts. it passes over.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem, or Moorland which are
double knitting, yarns. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

12oz is about 7 x 50g balls and 6oz is about 4 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in a small size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2011

Ski Slope Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The second nordic-style sweater for November in a slightly lighter weight yarn. Like the previous design it has a straight inset sleeve, as well as the bright ("modern") colour combination of the 1980s. The pattern includes instructions for plain leg warmers.

Instructions

This pattern uses 3 familiar stitch types:

Double Rib: repeated sequence of k2, p2 rib.
Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row.
Fair-isle stocking stitch, following the chart.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 86 / 90 / 94 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and stocking stitch, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [101/ 105/ 109 sts]. Continue joining in contrast (R) for dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as per the lower section of chart.
When work measures approximately 16¾ inches, change to No 6 (5mm) needles and beg the fair-isle motifs. When work measures 18 inches, shape the armholes by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When the fair-isle motif is complete, change back to No 7 needles and continue in dotted fair-isle until work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 8 at the beginning of the next 2 rows (all sizes).

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes), knit 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn leaving the remaining sts unworked but still on the needle to pick up in a moment, .
Purl back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts.

Return to the sts still on the needle for the neck and left side. Place the centre 43 sts on a stitch holder for the back neck, and then rejoin yarn to the remaining sts and knit 1 row.

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes) purlwise, purl 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn, knit back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts purlwise.

Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 90 / 94 / 98 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as for the back, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [105/ 109 / 113 sts].
Change to No 6 (5mm) needles when you work the fair-isle motifs just as you did on the back section.

When work measures 18 inches (same as back to armhole), shape the armholes by casting off 8 / 9 / 10 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When work measures 25½ / 26 / 26½ inches, shape neck:
leave centre 23 sts on spare needle and continue each side separately, casting off at neck edge on every alternate row as follows: 3 sts (once), 2 sts (twice) and 1 st (3 times) [23 / 24 / 25 sts].

When work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches, work shoulder shaping as you did for the back, casting off at armhole edge on every alternate row as follows: 8 sts (twice), 7 / 8 / 9 sts (once).

Sleeves:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 54 / 58 / 62 sts work 3½ inches in double rib.

Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle, increasing 17 sts evenly across first row [71 / 75 / 79 sts].

Increase 1 st at each end of every 8th row 9 times, [89 / 93 / 97 sts]. When work measures approximately 11½ / 12½ / 13½ inches, . (11 change to No 6 needles and work the fair-isle motifs.

Cast off when you have completed the second border pattern, before you start the dotted fair-isle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

Stitch one shoulder seam. Using No 9 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 98 / 102 / 106 sts evenly round neck. Work inches in double rib.
Cast off.

Stitch second shoulder seam and neck border seam.

Sew in sleeves.

Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Materials

13/14/15 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 4/5/6 balls contrast colour (red)/

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

18½sts and 21 rows to 4 ins using No 7 needles over dotted fair-isle stocking stitch (lower section of chart).

Size matters

The sweater has instructions for 3 sizes, which are intended to be for men or women as follows: man's to fit chest: 40/42/44 inches; woman's to fit: 34/36/38 inches (size 12/14/16 UK size).

Actual size seems to be 43/45½/47 inches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Pingouin Monsieur, or Sport yarn.

It was a synthetic Aran-type yarn knitting to a tension of 17sts and 23 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Charts:

This is the main chart showing the fair-isle design described in the pattern. It leaves a lot to work out yourself, showing the centre point and allowing you to work our where to start your row for each of the sizes.

Working it out yourself is made more difficult since the main panel pattern is a 34 stitch repeat, while the border above and below is a 6 stitch pattern repeat like the dotted body pattern. You can match up your first border with the dots, and use the chart below to see where to start and end your main panel pattern. Then match your second border spacing it the same as the first one.
This is the chart marked with start and end points for the back showing the 3 sizes, and the 34 stitch repeat. The front has 4 extra stitches up to the amhholes, so start 2 sts further out for the front.

This is a similar chart for the sleeve marking with start and end points for the 3 sizes.

[Editor's note: I worked out and drew the charts myself, and made lots of trivial errors before I was satisfied that they were right. So if you are having difficulty with the charts, or if you think there may be a mistake, please do let me know.]



Legwarmers

The legwarmers are worked in rib throughout.

Instructions

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade, cast on 62sts, and work in double rib for 4¾ inches.
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue until work measures 16½ inches.
Change back to No 11 needles and contrast colour, and work a further 2 inches.

Cast off loosely.

[Editor's note: You are working from the ankle upwards; you cast on for the bottom of the item and cast off at the top, so it needs to be loose.]

Stitch the seam using a flat seam technique.

Work a second legwarmer in the same way.

Materials

4 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 1 ball contrast colour (red)

Pair each No 11 (3mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

November 2011

Fashionable Fair-Isle

FamilyFairIsle.jpg

My title refers to the current season's fashion for nordic style sweaters - snowflake, as well as (astonishing to me) reindeer. This sweater's shape betrays its original design era, but that does make it simple to construct - and wear. Update to better reflect the current themes by choosing monochrome colour schemes, using black or greys with cream.
"Traditional motifs in cream make striking winter sweaters; simple easy styling, with straight necklines and drop shoulders, is easy to knit in thick soft yarn on big needles."

Instructions

T-shaped chunky sweater with simple snowflake pattern worked from the charts.

Back and Front alike:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 47 / 51 / 55 / 59 / 63 / 65 / 71 / 73 / 77 sts and work in K1/P1 rib for 2½ / / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / / 3½ inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row (wrong side): Rib 3 / 3 / 5 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6; m1; * rib 8 / 9 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 11 / 12 / 9 / 13; m1; repeat from * to last 4 / 3 / 5 / 5 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 5 / 6 sts; rib to end. [53 / 57 / 61 / 65 / 69 / 71 / 77 / 81 / 83 sts].

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until work measures 13½ / 14½ / 16 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 17½ / 18½ / 19½ inches, ending with a purl row.

1st to 3rd size: Join in contrast colour and work 2 rows.

All sizes:
Next row: Using main shade, knit.
Next row: Using main shade, purl 2 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3, ml; * purl 7 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 9 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 7, ml; rep from * to last 2 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 sts, purl to end. [61 / 65 / 69 / 73 / 77 / 81 / 87 / 91 / 95 sts]

1st to 3rd size: Work rows 1 to 24 from chart A, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 times across and working the first 0 / 2 / 4 sts and last 1 / 3 / 5 sts on knit rows and first 1 / 3 / 5 sts and last 0 / 2 / 4 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart A

4th to 9th size: Work rows 1 to 36 from chart B, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 times across and working first 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts and last 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts on knit rows and first 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts and last 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts on purl rows as indicated.

Chart B

All sizes: Break main shade, and complete in contrast.

Next 2 rows: Knit.

Next row: K3 / 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 5 / 4 / 2 / 4, k2tog, * k2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 / 2 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 5 / 3 / 6 sts, knit to end. [47 / 49 / 53 / 55 / 61 / 63 / 67 / 69 / 73 sts]

Next row: Knit

Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade cast on 25 / 27 / 27 / 29 / 29 / 31 / 31 / 33 / 33 sts and work in rib as on body sections for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by inc 1 stitch at each end of 3rd / 3rd / next / 7th / next / 5th / 3rd / 9th / 5th and every following 4th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 4th / 4th / 4th row until there are 51 / 51 / 55 / 55 / 59 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 69 sts.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins, ending with a purl row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting garter stitch and ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

When making up a chunky garment it may be easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing.
If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 30 inch lengths and a large needle, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join shoulder seams leaving 7 / / 8 / 9 / 9½ / / 10 / 10½ / 10½ ins open at centre for neck opening.
Join side seams leaving 7 / 7 / 7½ / / 8 / 8 / 9 / 9 / 9½ inches free for armholes.
Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

8 / 8 / 9 / 11 / 11 / 13 / 13 / 14 / 14 x 50g balls in main shade and 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 balls contrast colour.

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 inches; (66 / 71 / 76 / 81 / 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107 cm).
Length from top of shoulders: 20½ / 21½ / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 26½ / 27½ / 28½ ins; (52 / 54 / 58 / 61 / 63 / 66 / 67 / 70 / 72 cm).
Sleeve seam, 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins; (36 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 48 / 48 / 49 / 51 / 51 cm).

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which was a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.

A good substitute in texture and general ethos, might be Rowan's British sheep breeds chunky, which is specified as knitting to a tension of 13sts x 18 rows but on 7mm needles; it is available in a good range of monochrome colours which suit the fashion for the current take on fair-isle. Try a swatch with 6mm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

FamilyFairIsle2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

Helpful Stuff

Pattern Archive

Categories

Yarn Links

Fabric etc

Stuff to do

  • Little rabbits
  • Bayerische sock
  • V&A 1940s Patterns
  • Darlek Toy
  • Cashmere Cowl
  • Monkey Socks
  • Necktie Bag
  • Posh Gloves
  • Criss-cross coasters
  • Yesterknits
    (free patterns)