Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is the "maxi" skirt]

Back and Front alike

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade M, cast on 140/148/156/164 stitches and, starting with a knit row, work 7 rows stocking stitch, increasing 5 stitches evenly across the last row.
[145/153/161/169 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): knit, thus forming ridge for hem-line.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows stocking stitch.

** Join in contrast yarn C and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work rows 1 - 22 inclusive from chart A.

Repeat the 8 pattern stitches across, with the last stitch on knit rows and the first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows instocking stitch in C. Break C. **

Work 10 rows straight.

1st decrease row: (k 10/11/12/13, k2togtbl) twice, knit to last 24/26/28/30 stitches, (k2tog, k 10/11/12/13) twice.
Work 9 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: as 1st. [137/145/153/161 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 9 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **.

*** Work 4 rows straight.
Next decrease row: as 1st.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows twice, then the decrease row once more. ***
121/129/137/145 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 17 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **, then work from *** to ***.
[105/113/121/129 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 25 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

**** Join in C. and work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 needles and work rows 1 - 14 inclusive from chart B.

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch in C.
Break C. ****

Work from *** to ***.
[89/97/105/113 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 31¾ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from **** to ****.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Next decrease row: as1st.
Work 3 rows straight.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0/1/1/2 times more.

Next decrease row: as1st. [81/85/93/97 sts]

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 36½ /37/37/37½ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p 7/10/8/12, (p2tog, p 11/19/13/22) 5/3/5/3 times, p2tog, p 7/10/8/11. [75/81/87/93 sts]

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work in rib as follows
1st row(right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.

Repet the last 2 rows until belt measures 30/32/34/36 inches or the required length.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Special Note: Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for sewing, taking care that the yarn remains twisted during making up.

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join side seams.
Fold hem at ridge to wrong side and slip stitch the hem loosely in position all round.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew inside waist ribbing, using herringbone stitch over the elastic to form a casing.
Press seams.
Make a backing for the belt with the petersham and attach the buckle to one end.

Materials

10/11/12/12 (1 oz) balls double knitting yarn in main shade, chilli, and
4/5/5/6 in contrast shade, pink.

Pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm), 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist.
Buckle and length of petersham for belt.

Tension

23sts and 30 rows to 4 inches using No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit:
34 / 36 / 38 / 40 inch hips;
Length: 37½ / 38 / 38 / 38½ inches.

Abbreviations:

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops, (or "ssk": slip, slip, knit).

M = main colour
C = contrast

A Word on the Wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small [Medium, Large].

Front

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 92 [102, 112] stitches and work 7 rows in kl/pl rib.
Next row (hemline row): Knit to end.

Commence Pattern.

1st row (right side facing)): k17 [20, 23]; p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times; p1, knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle, then knit first stitch - called T2R -, p1; (k1, p1, k1 into the next stitch, p3) 4 times; p1, knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle tbl, then knit first stitch - called T2L -, p1; k1tbl (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times; p2, k6, p2, k17 [20, 23].
2nd Row: p17 [20, 23]; k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (p3tog, k3) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2; p17 [20, 23].
3rd Row: k17 [20, 23]; p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, T2R, p1, (p3, then k1 p1, k1 into the next stitch) 4 times, p1, T2L, p1, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, k6, p2, k17 [20, 23].
4th Row: p17 [20, 23]; k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (k3, p3tog) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2, p17 [20, 23].
5th Row: as 1st row.
6th Row: as 2nd row.
7th Row: p17 [20, 23], p2, slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 from cable needle - called C6B -, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, T2R, p1, (p3, then k1, p1, k1 into the next stitch) 4 times, p1, T2L, p1, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at front of work, k3 stitches then k3 from cable needle - called C6F -, p2, p17 [20, 23].
8th Row: p17 [20, 23], k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (k3, p3tog) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, k2, p6, k2, p17 [20, 23].

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Keeping pattern correct, decrease one stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until 80 [88, 96] stitches remain.

Continue without shaping until works measures 11½ [13, 15½] inches from hemline, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape armholes: by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease one stitch at each end of the next 3 [4, 5] rows, then at each end of the following alternate row. 64 [70, 76] stitches.

Continue without shaping until armhole measures 3 [3½, 4] inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape neck:
Next Row: pattern 20 [22, 24]. Turn.
Leave remaining stitches on a holder or spare needle.
Complete this side first, by decreasing one stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following alternate row until 16 [18, 20] stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and following alternate row 4 [5, 6] stitches once and 12 [13, 14] stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 24 [26, 28] stitches on to a holder for the centre front neck, and rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches. Complete to match the first side, reversing shaping.

Back

Work as given for the Front until armhole shaping is completed.
Continue without shaping until armholes measure the same as the front to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and every row 4 [5, 6] stitches twice, and then 12 [13, 14] stitches twice.
Leave the remaining 32 [34, 36] stitches on a holder for centre back neck.

Sleeves

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 34 [36, 40] stitches.
Work 17 rows k1/p1 rib, increasing one stitch at the end of the last row on the 2nd size only: 34 [37, 40] stitches.

Next Row k1, * increase in next stitch, rib 2; repeat from * to end:
45 [49, 53] stitches.

Commence working the pattern.

1st Row (right side facing): k9 [10, 11], p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, k6, p2, k9 [10, 11].
2nd Row: p9 [10, 11], k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2, p9 [10, 11].

Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

7th Row: p9 [10, 11], p2, C6B, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, C6F, p2, p9 [10, 11].
8th Row: as 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern. Keeping the pattern correct, increase one stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 49 [55, 61] stitches.

Change to No 8 (4m) needles.
Continue without shaping until sleeve measures 8½ [10, 11½] inches from the beginning, ending with the same wrong side pattern row as on the Front and Back at the underarm.

Shape top:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and every row 4 stitches twice, one stitches 6 times, 2 stitches 10 [12, 14] times, and 15 [17, 19] stitches once.

Polo neck

Join right shoulder seam.
Using No 10 needles, and with right side of work facing, begin at the left front shoulder and knit up 10 stitches down left front neck, knit across 24 [26, 28] stitches on the holder for the front neck, knit up 10 stitches up the right front neck; then knit across 32 [34, 36] stitches on the holder for the back neck: 76 [80, 84]

Work 10 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 8 needles and work 18 rows k1, p1,rib.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Do not press.
Join left shoulder seam.
Set in sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn hem at lower edge to wrong side and slip stitch in place.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 40g balls -
6 [6, 7]

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch

Size matters

To fit chest:
22 [24, 26] inches;
length to shoulder: 16 [18, 21] inches; sleeve seam: 8½ [10, 11½] inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit through back loops
T2R: twist 2 stitches right - knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle, then knit first stitch
T2L: twist 2 stitches left - knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle tbl, then knit first stitch
C6B: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 from cable needle
C6F: slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 from cable needle
p3tog: purl 3 stitches together.
[Editor's note: This is part of the "trinity" or "blackberry" stitch pattern for the centre panel, where you increase twice in a stitch on the knit rows and then purl those three stitches together on the purl rows, thus making a bobble; the positioning of the bobbles is alternated over a 4 row pattern repeat.]

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard synthetic double knitting crepe yarn. Possibly about 100m per 40g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

If you've never tried an Aran pattern before then a moderately straightforward bag might be a nice way in. It's not overly simple, but it does include enough basic techniques in cabling and texture for you to try out Aran in a "safe space".

Bag (main part):

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch.

Increase row: k2, (kfb, k2) twice, p1, pfb, p2, pfb, p1, (kfb, k1) 3 times, p2, k1, p2, (k1, kfb) 3 times, p1, pfb, p2, pfb, (k2, kfb) twice, k2. [59 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and pattern:

1st row (right side): (k1tbl, p1) 5 times, k8, p9, cross 5, p9, k8, (p1, k1tbl) 5 times.
2nd row: k10, p8, k9, p2, k1, p2, k9, p8, k10.
Continue keeping 10 stitches at each end of rows in rice stitch, as on these 2 rows. The stitches formed in the centre of the diamond are also in rice stitch.
3rd row: rs10, cable 4 back, cable 4 front, p8, c3r, k1tbl, c3l, p8, cable 4 back, cable 4 front, rs10.
4th row: k10, p8, k8, p2, k3, p2, k, p8, k10.
5th row: rs10, k8, p7, c3r, p1, k1tbl, p1, c3l, p7, k8, rs10.
6th row: k10, p8, k8, p2, k. 5, p2, k8, p8, k10.
7th row: rs10, cable 4 front, cable 4 back, p6, c3r, (k1tbl, p1) twice, k1tbl, c3l, p6, cable 4 front, cable 4 back, rs10.
8th row: k10, p8, k6, p2, k8, p2, k6, p8, k10.
These 8 rows form pattern for the double ribbon cables next to the rice stitch borders, so continue keeping these correct also as you start the diamond.

9th row: pattern 18, p5, c3r, rs7, c3l, p5, pattern 18.
10th row: k10, p8, k5, p2, k9, p2, k5, p8, k10.
11th row: pattern 18, p4, c3r, rs9, c3l, p4, pattern 18.
12th row: k10, p8, k4, p2, k11, p2, k4, p8, k10.
13th row: pattern 18, p4, k2, rs11, k2, p4, pattern 18.
14th row: As 12th.
The diamond now starts to close up.

15th row: pattern 18, p4, c3l, rs9, c3r, p4, pattern 18.
16th row: As 10th.
17th row: pattern 18, p5, c3l, rs7, c3r, p5, pattern 18.
18th row: As 8th.
19th row: pattern 18, p6, c3l, rs5, c3r, p6, pattern 18.
20th row: As 6th.
21st row: pattern 18, p7, c3l, p1, k1tbl, p1, c3r, p7, pattern 18.
22nd row: As 4th.
23rd row: pattern 18, p8, c3l, k1tbl, c3r, p8, pattern 18.
24th row: As 2nd.

These 24 rows form one pattern.

Continue until you have completed the 6th pattern, then repeat the 1st row again.
Decrease row: (k2, k2tog) twice, k2; p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1;
(k2tog, k1) 3 times; p2, k1, p2, (k1, k2tog) 3 times; p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1; (k2, k2tog) twice, k2. [45 sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Shoulder Straps

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 7 stitches.
1st row: k1, (p1, k1tbl) twice, p1, k1.
2nd row: purl.

[Editor's note: knitted straps can be very stretchy, so I might be inclined to purchase appropriate bag handles of leather, or PVU - otherwise I would try and line the handles with a strip of lining material or webbing.]

To make up the bag

Fold the bag in half with right sides inside and garter stitch edges level.
Backstitch along the side edges and press seams lightly.
Turn right side out.
Press the straps to prevent them from curling.
Fold the lining material in half and place the bag on it, making the fold level with the lower edge of the bag.
Cut out the lining in double material, using the bag as a guide and allowing ¾ inch for seams along each side.
Sew up the side seams taking ½ inch seams so that the lining will be
slightly full.
Fit the lining inside the bag, and turn under ½ inch at the top edges and slipstitch these folded edges to the last row of the pattern so that garter stitch borders are left free and unlined.
Pin the cast-on edges of the straps to the side seams of the bag placing straps inside the garter stitch edging allowing about ½ inch overlap. Sew very securely.
Lap the pointed ends of the straps one over the other with a 6 inch overlap and pin at centre. Sew on 2 press studs to hold the pointed ends of the straps in place.
Sew the two halves of another press stud to the lower ends of the straps so that pointed ends could be fastened here if a short strap is required. Sew the remaining press stud on to the centre of the garter stitch border at the top of the bag to hold it closed.

Beret

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, cast on 105 stitches, and work in garter stitch for 6 rows.

Increase row: k1, p1, pfb, p1; * (kfb) 4 times, p2, make 1 by picking up loop lying between needles and knit it through back loop, p2, (kfb) 4 times, (pfb, p1) twice, pfb; repeat from * 4 times more; (kfb) 4 times, p2, make 1 as before, p2, (kfb) 4 times, p1, pfb, p1, k1.
[176 sts].

Change to the No 7 (4½mm) circular needle working backwards and forwards in rows, and work in pattern as follows:
1st row: p1, * k1, p8, cross 5, p8, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p4, k8, p2, k1, p2, k8, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * cable 4 front, p7, c3r, k1tbl, c3l, p7, cable 4 back: repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
You will notice that, at the beginning and end of rows, the cables are separate; these will come together when the seam is joined, and along the row the two parts of the cable form the same double ribbon cable as on the bag.
4th row: k1, * p4, kfb, k6, p2, k3, p2, k6, kfb, p4; repeat
from * to last stitch, k1
5th row: p1, * k4, p7, c3r, p1, k1, k1tbl, p1, c3l, p7, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1, * p4, k7, p2, k5, p2, k7, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * cable 4 back, p6, c3r, rs5, c3l, p6, cable 4 front, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
8th row: k1, * p4, kfb, k5, p2, k7, p2, k5, kfb, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1,
9th row: p1, * k4, p6, c3r, rs7, c3l, p6, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: k1, * p4, k6, p2, k9, p2, k6, kfb, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1,
11th row: p1, * cable 4 front, p5, c3r, rs9, c3l, p5, cable 4 back; repeat from * to last stitch, p1,
12th row: k1, * p4, kfb, k4, p2, k11, p2, k4, kfb, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [212 sts]

The increases are now complete.
Continue without shaping with stitches as now set working the diamond and cable patterns the same as on bag until 20th row has been worked, then start to decrease.

21st row: p1, * k4, p2tog, p7, c3l, p1, k1tbl, p1, c3r, p7, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 3 rows in pattern without shaping to complete the 1st pattern.

Now start 2nd pattern:
1st row: p1, * k4, p2tog, p8, cross 5, p8, p2togtbl. k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 3 rows in pattern without shaping.

Keeping pattern correct, continue to decrease in these positions on the 5th, 9th, and 13th rows.
Work 3 rows after the last decrease row.

17th row: p1, * k4, p2tog, c3l, rs7, c3r, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Change to straight No 7 (4½mm) needles and continue to decrease in same positions on the 19th, 21st, and 23rd rows.

24th row: k1, * p4, k2togbl, p2, k1, p2, k2tog, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [92 sts]

Finish the top as follows:
1st row: p1, * k2, k2tog, p1, slip next 2 stitches on to the cable needle and leave at back, k2tog, k1, then k2tog, from cable needle, p1, k2togtbl, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p2tog, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, p2togtbl; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * k2togtbl, p1, k3tog, p1, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: p2tog, * slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, p2tog; repeat from * to end.

Break wool leaving half a yard, and thread this double through the remaining 13 stitches, draw up tightly and sew securely.
Join seam and press.

Materials

Aran Bainin:
Bag: 4 x 50g Beret: 4 x 50g
[7 balls may make both items]

One pair each No 7 (4½mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.
One No 7 (4½mm) circular needle.
Cable needle

¾ yard (70cm) lining fabric.

4 large press studs.

Tension

20sts x 26 rows to four inches over rice stitch

Size matters

Bag: Approx. 12 inches (30cm) long by 10 inches (25cm) wide.

Beret: Width across top of head 11½ inches - fits an "average" head.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

kfb/pfb: knit/purl in front and back of stitch (one stitch increased)

tbl: through back of loop(s)

cross 5: slip the next 2 stitches on to cable needle and leave at back of work; k2; pass the purl stitch from the other end of the cable needle back onto the left-hand needle, and bring the cable needle to the front of the work; p1 from the left-hand needle; k2 from the cable needle

c3l: cross 3 left: slip the next 2 stitches onto the cable needle and leave at front of work; p1; k2 from cable needle

c3r: cross 3 right: slip the next stitch onto the cable needle and leave at back of work; k2; p1 from cable needle

cable 4 back/front:
slip next
2 stitches onto cable needle and leave at back/front of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle

stocking stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side ("stockinette")

garter stitch: every row knitted

rs: rice stitch - knitted over 2 rows as described in the pattern

A Word on the Wool

The original wool is a standard Irish pure wool Aran - on the thicker side at 18 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.