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February 2017

French Connection

FrenchConnectionSweater.jpg

An expression of the era of safari suits and cravats* heralding a new "casual look" - where you could be smart without a lounge suit - like Brett Sinclair. [Having said that I can only find pictures of Brett with his safari jacket open necked or worn over a polo-neck, and his cravats worn conventionally with his suits; perhaps this was an expression of the character he was playing rather than fashion.]

If you overlook the styling - and maybe the colour - this is quite a nice sweater - and maybe cap if not all worn as an outfit. A shorter button-through neck would improve it for me.

* See gratuitous picture of Roger at the end of the instructions.

Sweater Instructions.

Back

**
With No. 7 needles, cast on 72/76/80/84 stitches

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): * Tw2R, k1 ; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * p1, Tw2L, p1 ; repeat from * to end.
4th row: purl.
5th row: k.3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
7th row: k1, p2, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, .
8th row: purl.
These 8 rows form pattern. Repeat them twice more.

Shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 24th row until there are 78/82/86/90 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until back measures 17 inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 58/60/62/64 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 26/26½/27/27½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Leave the remaining 26/26/28/28 stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work 2/1/2/1 rows straight.

Divide for front opening as follows:

Next row: pattern 26/27/28/29. Turn.
Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Work straight in pattern on these 26/27/28/29 stitches for first side until front measures 23/23/23½/23½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows, then on every alternate row until 16/17/17/18 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 5/6/6/6 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 6/5/5/6 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 6 stitches on a safety-pin; rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 7 needles, cast on 32/32/36/36 stitches and work 3 inches in rib as on lower edge of back increasing 4 stitches evenly across last row: 36/36/40/40 stitches.

Change to No 4 needles and pattern as on back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 6th row until there are 48/44/52/50 stitches.
Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 4th row until there are 62/64/66/70 stitches, taking increased stitches into pattern.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18/18/18½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 38/38/42/42 38/38/42/42 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 16 stitches remain.
Cast Off.

Left Front Border

With right side facing and No 7 needles, work across 6 centre stitches on front as follows:

1st row: k2, p1, m1, p1, k2 {7 sts}
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 3 times.
3rd row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2.

Repeat the last 2 rows until border, when slightly stretched, fits up left side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on .a safety-pin.
Using a flat seam, sew border in position.

Right Front Border

With No 7 needles, cast on 7 stitches and work in rib as for left front until border fits up right side of front to start of neck shaping, ending with right side facing.

Do not break yarn. Leave stitches on a safety pin.
Sew border in position.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly under a damp cloth or following the instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.

Collar

With right side facing and No 7 needles, rib 7 stitches from right front border, pick up and knit 16/18/20/22 up right side of neck, knit 26/26/28/28 from back, increase 1 stitch at centre, pick and knit 16/18/20/22 down left side, then rib 7 border stitches.
{73/77/83/87 sts}

Shape collar as follows:

1st row: k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches , k2.
3rd row: k1, p1, k1, m1, rib to last 3 stitches, m1, k1, p1, k1.
4th row: k2, p2, rib to last 4 stitches, p2, k2.
5th row: as 3rd.
6th row: rib 34/36/39/41, (m1, rib1, m1, rib3) twice, m1, rib1, m1, rib to end.
7th - 9th rows: as 3rd - 5th rows.

Now repeat rows 2 - 5 until collar measures 4 inches at centre back, ending with 2nd or 4th row.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for making up, noting that yarn must be twisted from time to time during make up so that it does not break.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Catch down border stitches at base of opening on wrong side.
Press seams.

Materials

17/18/19/20 x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

15st and 20 rows to four inches on No 4 needles over stocking stitch.
16st and 20 rows over pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest: 17/18/19/20 inches;
length from * top of shoulders: 26/26½/27/27½ ins;
sleeve seam:
18/18/18½/18½ ins

Abbreviations

Tw2R: k2tog, but do not slip stitches off needle; then knit first stitch again,
slipping both stitches off needle together
Editors note: although the "twist 2 left" method (below) is familiar to me, I would not normally do a "twist 2 right" in this fashion. I would normally knit the second stitch on the needle without slipping it off the needle, then knit the first stitch and slip both off together. However, I am not sure if this instruction is intentional to achieve a slightly different pattern.
Tw2L: miss first stitch and knit into back of second stitch, then knit first stitch, slipping both stitches off needle together.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Cap Instructions

Crown

With No, 4 needles, cast on 14 stitches and purl 1 row.

Shape as follows:
1st row (right side facing): increase in first stitch, k1, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, Tw2R, increase in next stitch, k1.
2nd row: increase in first stitch, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, increase in next stitch, p1.
3rd row: increase in first stitch, k1, * p2, Tw2L; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch, p1.
4th row: increase in first stitch, purl to last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, p1.
5th row: increase in first stitch, k3, * Tw2R, k2; repeat from * to last
2 stitches, increase in next stitch, k1.
6th row: increase in first stitch, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p1, increase in next stitch, k1.
7th row: increase in first stitch, p1, * Tw2L, p2; repeat from * to last 4 stitches,Tw2L, increase in next stitch, k1.
8th row:purl.

Keeping continuity of pattern, increase 1 stitch as before at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {34 sts}
Work 3 rows straight, then increase 1 stitch as before at each end of following row: {36 sts}
Work 9 rows straight. Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row: {32 sts}
Work 1 row straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: {26 sts}

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 14 stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off

Brim

With No 7 needles, cast on 84 stitches.

1st row: (p2, increase in next stitch) 3 times, * p1, increase in next stitch, p2, increase in next stitch; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, increase in next stitch p2. {116 sts}

Change to No 4 needles and work rows 1 - 8 of pattern as on back of sweater, then repeat rows 1 - 3 again. Cast off knitwise.

Peak

With right side facing and No 7 needles, pick up and knit 76 stitches along cast-on edge on the brim.
Knit 3 rows.

Shape as follows:
1st row: knit to last 19 stitches. Turn.
2nd row
: k2, increase in next stitch, (k1, increase in next stitch) 16 times, k3. Turn.
3rd and 4th rows: knit to last 21 stitches. Turn.
5th and 6th rows: knit to last 23 stitches. Turn.

Continue working short rows in this manner, working 2 stitches fewer on every 2 rows until the rows "knit to last 33 stitches. Turn" have been worked.

Next 2 rows: knit to last 36 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows
: knit to last 40 stitches. Turn.
Next 2 rows: knit to end, picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and knitting it together with next stitch to avoid a
hole. Knit 1 row.
Cast off knitwise.

Making Up

Block crown to a 9 inch circle by pinning out round edges, and press lightly under a damp cloth.
Block and press brim and peak.

Using a flat seam, join ends of brim.
Placing join to centre of cast-off edge of crown, oversew cast-off edge of brim neatly to edge of crown.

Materials

3x 50g balls chunky wool.

Pair each of No 4 (6mm) No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Tension

24st and 32 rows to four inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

"Average hat size".

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which as I recall was a pure wool chunky, and a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.
[Colour "Lichen" - and from my experience of lichen, a fairly good representation!]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

SaintSafariJacket.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: sweater

SnowSetSweater.jpg

Continental after-ski casuals - fifties style .

... even though my sporty friends tell me that even more recent items that I think of as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

"Hey look - over there - someone's wearing socks to match my sweater!"
[...and in case you were wondering - I think it's an orange she's holding.]

Instructions.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Black by B, and Red by R.
The colour panels are worked with separate balls of wool in the intarsia fashion. Twist the wools on the wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Front

With No 8 needles and white yarn W, cast on 99 stitches and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end, and ending with a wrong side row.

With right side facing, change to pattern introducing the fair-isle pattern (worked from the chart) in stocking-stitch and the red panel in red yarn (R) worked in rib up the centre.

Continue setting out the panels as follows:—
1st row: k15 W, p1 W; join in 1st ball of B, and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; join in R and k5; join in 2nd ball W and B and pattern 31 from 1st row of chart; p1 W, k15 W.
2nd row: p15 W, k1 W; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; change to R, (p1, k1) twice, p1 R; pattern 31 from 2nd row of chart; k1 W, p15 W.
3rd row: k15 W, p1 W; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart; in R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R; pattern 31 from 3rd row of chart, p1 W, k15 W.

Keeping centre rib and pattern correct work 9 rows straight.

Next row: k12 W; k2tog W; pattern 31; k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it; p1 R, k1 R, p1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and knit into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back of loops, k12 W.
Next row: p14 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2; pattern 31; k1 W, p14 W.
Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Next row: k11 W; k2tog W, k1 W, p1 W; pattern 31, k1 R; using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it; using R (k1, p1) twice, k1 R, using R pick up horizontal loop before next stitch and purl into the back of it, k1 R; pattern 31; p1 W, k1 W, k2tog W through back loops, k11 W.
Next row: p13 W, k1 W, pattern 31, in R, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1 R; pattern 31; k1 W, p13 W.

Keeping pattern and rib correct work 14 rows straight.

Continue in pattern increasing the rib stitches in this way and decreasing in the White panel at each end, on the next and every following 16th row until work measures 13½ inches from the start, and ending with right side facing.

Shape sleeves as follows:
Continue shaping on every 16th row as before and at the same time shape for sleeves by casting on in W: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [265 sts]

This completes the sleeve shaping

Continue in pattern shaping on every 16th row as before until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: Work 124, rib the next 17 stitches, placing them on to a stitch-holder and leave for the time being; work 124 stitches to end.

Continue on the last 124 stitches only, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows.

Next row: Cast off 31, work to last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Next row: k2tog, work to end.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work back, then cast off the remaining 9 stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining 124 stitches, work to end. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 2 rows, then finish to correspond with right shoulder.

Back

With No 8 needles and W yarn, cast on 95 stitches and
work 3 inches k1/p1 rib as for front.

Change to stocking-stitch, working in White throughout, and work straight until side edge measures same as front ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape for sleeves by casting on: 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 10 rows; 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [261 sts]

Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve edge measures 4 inches ending with right side facing. Shape sleeves and shoulders by casting off 31 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [29 sts]
Leave remaining 29 stitches on a stitch-holder.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing, the set of No 10 needles and Black yarn B, starting at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 16 stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 16
stitches up right side of neck, then knit 29 stitches across back of
neck. [78 sts]

Work in rounds of k1/p1 rib for 2½ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cuffs

With right side facing, using two No 10 needles and Black yarn B, pick up and knit 40 stitches along sleeve edge. Work 3 inches k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 13 oz in white (W), 3 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 8 (4mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

2 stitch holders.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 ins on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
32-35 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 22 inches.
Sleeve seam: 16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

And here we see the whole splendid outfit.
[... and she's still holding on to that orange...]

SnowSetOutfit.jpg

January 2017

Snow Set: slipper boots

SnowSetSlipperBoots1.jpg

Sports wear.... skiing!
... even though my sporty friends tell me that even the items I think of from more recent years as acceptable ski-wear have very quickly dated on the slopes.

Anyway - to kick off in fifties style - "ankle-warm slipper boots".

Instructions

Make two socks alike.

Main body:

Using the pair of No 10 needles and red (R) yarn, cast on 51 stitches, and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, (k3, increase in next stitch) 6 times, k1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, k2. [57 sts]
Break red yarn (R).

Join in white (W) and purl 1 row.

Now introduce black yarn B and work the fair-isle pattern over the centre 31 stitches, using stocking stitch and reading from the chart, and keeping 13 stitches on either side in rib as before.
[x indicates black stitches].

Work rows 1 through 12 from the chart, 3 times in all, then 1st and 2nd rows again.

Next row: Rib 13 and slip these stitches on to a length of wool or a stitch holder for the time being, pattern across the next 31 stitches, slip the remaining 13 stitches on a length of wool as before.
Continue on the centre 31 stitches only, and continuing the pattern from the chart until the 6th row of the 7th pattern has been done from start.
Break black yarn B.

Next row: (k2, k2tog.) 7 times, k1, k2tog. [23 sts]
Next row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Adjust length of foot here:

For size 5 foot work 2 rows straight in stocking stitch;
for size 6 foot work 4 rows straight;
for size 7 foot work 6 rows straight.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping toe by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every knit row until 15 sts remain, then at each end of every row until 9 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To make heel:

Slip the 26 stitches left on spare wool or stitch holders on to one needle and with right side facing, join in W
[Editor's Note: you are making the heel here so you need to arrange the 2 sets of stitches so that the free ends of the knitting meet in the centre, and you start knitting at the edge of the centre panel you have just been knitting.]
and work as follows:

1st row: k2, (p1, k1) 5 times, p2tog., (k1, p1) 5 times, k2.
2nd row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Continue in rib for 2¼ inches.
Cast off loosely in rib, leaving last stitch on needle.

To shape instep, using needle with the 1 stitch remaining, pick up and knit 10 stitches along the side of the heel.
Next row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
Next row: Knit to the last 3 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 2 stitches remain.
K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, pick up and knit 11 stitches along the other side of the heel and work to correspond.

Making up

Press the pattern parts lightly under a damp cloth.
Join instep pieces to foot.
Using red yarn (|R) and the set of 4 No 10 needles, pick up and knit 134 stitches (for size 5), 138 stitches (for size 6), 142 stitches (for size 7), all round lower edge of slipper (where it will be sewn to the soles).
Work 4 rounds k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.
Sew zip fasteners in position down centre back, then join the rest of back the seam.

Stitch slipper firmly to sole.

Materials

Original pattern calls for double knitting yarn: 2 oz in white (W), 1 oz in black (B), and 1 oz in "lipstick" red (R).

One pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles
One set of 4 double pointed No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Two 4 inch zip fasteners.

A pair of slipper soles.

Tension

24 st and 32 rows to 4 inches (10cm).

Size matters

To fit UK women's size 5,6,7.
European: 37, 38, 39

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A slightly clearer picture of the boots, showing the snazzy back zip closing.

SnowSetSlipperBoots2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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