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March 2024

Brer Rabbit

BrerRabbit.jpg

Another delightfully plain and practical pram set for a little one, including leggings, a jumper, and a jaunty beret!

Instructions

Jumper Back

Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib for 1½ inches ending with a wrong side row.

Change to size 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Continue until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from to , until 42 (44, 44, 46) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: k2, p2tog , k10 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following alternate row until 5 stitches remain.
Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge until 2 stitches remain, working the decreases at the outer armhole edge when they can no longer be worked inside the border of 2 stitches.

Work 1 row; k2tog, and fasten off.

Slip the centre 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in the yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches; knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog , k2.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Sleeves

Using size 12 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) stitches and work in k1/ p1 rib for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 52 (56, 60, 64) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a flat stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open. With the right side of the work facing and using size 12 needles, knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 12 stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches at the centre; pick up and knit 12 stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on top of the Right Sleeve, and the 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches on the back neck.
[76 (84, 84, 92) sts.]

Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ inch.
Cast off in rib.


Leggings - right leg

Using size 12 needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 4, * yfwd., k2tog, rib 2. Repeat from * to end.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Change to size 10 needles and work as follows.

Shape Back

1st row: knit 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: knit 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: purl to end.
5th row: knit 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: purl to end.
7th row: knit 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: purl to end.

★★ Continue in stocking stitch, working across all stitches for 28 (32, 32, 34) rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 5th row until there are 88 (92, 96, 100) stitches on the needle, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 2 rows. [92 (96, 100, 104) sts]

Commence Leg Shaping by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 66 (72, 76, 80) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row until 38 (38, 42, 42) stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 16½ (17¼, 17¾, 18½) inches at the longest (back) edge, ending with a purl row. ★★

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 31 (31, 34, 34) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k3, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 29).
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k2, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28).
5th row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 27).
6th row: purl.
Cast off.

Leggings - left leg

Work as for Right Leg from to .

Shape Back

1st row: purl 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: knit to end.
3rd row: purl 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: knit to end.
5th row: purl 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: knit to end.
7th row: purl 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: knit to end.

Commencing with a purl row, follow the instructions for the Right Leg from ★★ to ★★.

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 20 (20, 22, 22) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k24 (26, 27, 29); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k3.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k23 (25, 26, 28); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k2.
5th row: k22 (24, 25, 27); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k1.
6th row: purl.
Cast off.


Beret

Using size 12 needles, cast on 132 (132, 136, 136) stitches and work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.

Next row (increase row): rib 7 (7, 9, 9). * work twice into the next stitch, rib 2; repeat from * to the last 8 (8, 10, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 7 (7, 9, 9).
[172 (172, 176, 176) sts]

Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Work 20 (20, 24, 24) rows.

Shape Crown
1st decrease row: k8 (8, 6, 6), * k2tog, k9 (9, 7, 7); repeat from * to last 10 (10, 8, 8) stitches; k2tog, k8 (8, 6, 6).
[157 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
2nd decrease row: * k9; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[131 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
3rd decrease row: * k7; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[105 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
4th decrease row: * k5; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[79 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
5th decrease row: * k3; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[53 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
6th decrease row: * k1; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[27 sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k3tog all along the row. [9 sts]

Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

To Make Up

Jumper
Sew in zip to left back raglan seam, then join the remainder of the seam.
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.

Leggings
Using a back stitch, join the back, front, leg and foot seams.
Thread elastic through eyelet holes at the waist.

Beret
Using a flat stitch, join the seam.
Sew a pompon to the top of the crown.
To make a pompon, cut wool into 3 inch lengths; tie securely in the centre; fluff out and trim to shape.

Materials

4 ply yarn 25g balls:
Jumper: 3 (3, 4, 5)
Leggings: 4 (4, 5, 5)
Beret: 2 (2, 2, 2)

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

4 inch zip fastener for jumper
Elastic for leggings waist

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
19 (20, 21, 22) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: work two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")
stocking stitch: alternate Rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a superwash wool. It appeared as 1 oz balls, then as per this pattern in 25g balls, and finally in 50g balls.

Possible yardage based on the 50g ball information is 93 yards (85 metres) to 25g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2024

Just add colour...

BrightChunky.jpg

Choose a colourful chunky knit to herald the Spring season to come.
It's still cold enough for a thicker woollen, but you can brighten up the dark days of February with this chunky sweater - which is also quick to knit!

Don't just stick with the naval theme - take inspiration from these Oliver Bonas knits: here, here, or here.

Instructions.

Back and Front (alike)

Using 4½mm needles, and W (white yarn), cast on 67 (71, 73, 77) stitches, and work 2 (2, , ) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 5 (7, 5, 7) * increase in next stitch; rib 7 (7, 8, 8); repeat from * to last 6 (8, 5, 7) stitches; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [75, 79, 81, 85 sts].

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Joining on and cutting off colours as required, proceed in pattern as follows, noting that stitches increased on Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 are decreased to the original number on Rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 14.

Row 1 (right side): knit with main shade W (white).
Row 2: Using W, p4 (6, 7, 9); [k 13, p5] 3 times; k13, p4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 3: Using W, k2 (4, 5, 7); [yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k1] 3 times; yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k2 (4, 5, 7).
Row 4: Using W, p5 (7, 8, 10), [k5, k3tog, k5, p7] 3 times; k5, k3tog, k5, p5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 5: Using W, k3 (5, 6, 8); [yfwd, k15, yfwd, k3] 3 times; yfwd, k15, yfwd. k3 (5, 6, 8).
Row 6: Using W, p6 (8, 9, 11); [k4, k3tog; k4, p9] 3 times; k4, k3tog, k4, p6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 7: Using W, k4 (6, 7, 9), [yfwd, k 13, yfwd, k5) 3 times, yfwd, k13, yfwd,. k4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 8: Using W, p7 (9, 10, 12), [k3, k3tog, k3, p11] 3 times, k3, k3tog, k3, p7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 9: Using R (red yarn), k5 (7, 8, 10); [yfwd, k11, yfwd, k7] 3 times, yfwd, k11, yfwd, k5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 10: Using R, p8 (10, 11, 13); [k2, k3tog, k2, p13) 3 times; k2, k3tog, k2, p8 (10, 11, 13).
Row 11: Using W, k6 (8, 9, 11); [yfwd, k9] 7 times; yfwd, k6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 12: Using W, p9 (11, 12, 14), [k1, k3tog, k1, p15] 3 times, k1, k3tog, k1, p9 (11, 12, 14).
Row 13: Using W, k7 (9, 10, 12), [yfwd, k7, yfwd, k11] 3 times, yfwd, k7, yfwd, k7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 14: Using W, p10 (12, 13, 15), [k3tog, p17] 3 times; k3tog, p10 (12, 13, 15).

Editors note: Now you repeat the same pattern sections but change the colours.

Rows 15 to 22: As Rows 1 to 8 but use R instead of W.
Rows 23 and 24
: As Rows 9 and 10 but use N instead of R.
Rows 25 to 28: As Rows 11 to 14 but use R instead of W.
Rows 29 to 36
: As Rows 1 to 8 but use N instead of W.
Rows 37 and 38
: As Rows 9 and 10 but use W instead of R.
Rows 39 to 42
: As Rows 11 to 14 but use N instead of W.

These 42 Rows form the pattern repeat them once more, then work Rows 1 to 14 again.
Now work Rows 1 to 14 once more. Cut off B and C.
Work 5 Rows in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Using 4½mm needles, and W, cast on 37 (37, 39, 39) stitches, and work 2 (2, , ) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 2; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 5 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 6 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; rib to end. [75, 75, 79, 79 sts]

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Following instructions for the 1st (1st, 2nd, 2nd) sizes work the 42 pattern rows as for the Back twice, then work rows 1 to 14 again.
Cast off.

To Make Up

See the yarn ball band for washing and pressing details.

Join shoulder seams leaving approximately 9 (, , 10) inches open at the centre for the neck.
Mark depth of armholes 8¾ (, , ) inches down from the shoulders on the back and front.
Set the sleeves in between the markers, then join the side and sleeve seams.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
6 (6, 6, 7) x 50g balls in main colour Snowdrop (white);
3 (3, 3, 3) balls in Grenadier (red); and
2 (3, 3, 3) balls in Navy (dark blue).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm) and No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Tension

17sts and 24 rows to 4 inches over pattern stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
35 (37, 38, 40) inches.
Editors note: This is intended to be a loose fit to suit a 32 - 38 inch chest size.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it.
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was:
65% Acrylic
20% Wool
15% Nylon - yardage not given

Note that chunky yarns can cover a wide variation in thickness so check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2024

Beautiful Brioche

BeautifulBrioche

Wonderfully cosy raglan sweater stitched in two vibrant colours. Fisherman's rib - or brioche as it now seems to be called, (no link to French bread as far as I can see) - is fantastically squishy and lovely - well worth the effort.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (right side): With B, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (right side): With A, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (wrong side): With B, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

  • When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
  • When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
  • When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 85 (89, 93) stitches and work in single rib:
**
1st row (right side)
: K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches (8cm) from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.
**
Increase row: Rib 6 (8, 10), [double increase, rib 7] 9 times, double increase, rib 6 (8, 10). [105 (109, 113) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue until work measures 13½ (14, 15) inches from the beginning.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (29, 29) times.

Cast off remaining 31 stitches for back neck.

Front

Work as for back until 114 (120, 124) rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan shaping; 39 stitches remain for all sizes, ending with a decrease row.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: Pattern 13, and leave these stitches on a holder; cast off the next 13 stitches; pattern to end.
Continue on these last 13 stitches now remaining on the needle.


***
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 6 rows, and then at the same edge on the next 2 alternate rows, and at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows; then decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every following 4th row twice.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the other set of 13 stitches, and complete in the same way, from *** reversing shaping.

Note that the front is overall 4 rows shorter than the back.

Left Sleeve

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (55, 55) stitches and work as for back welt from ** to **.

Increase row: Rib 4 (6, 6), [double increase, rib 13] 3 times, double increase, rib 4 (6, 6). [59 (63, 63) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 6 (8, 3) times, then every following 8th row 12 (10, 17) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.
[95 (99, 103) sts]

Continue straight until work measures 16 (16½, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a 3rd (5th, 5th) pattern row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 22 (23, 23) times; for all sizes 33 stitches remain, ending with a 5th pattern row.
****

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches for the back sleeve section on a spare needle; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for front section of sleeve.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 9 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 4 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for back sleeve section.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 5 times, then every following 4th row 3 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 5 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Note that front edge off sleeve is 4 rows shorter than back edge.

Right Sleeve

Work as for left sleeve to ****.

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches on a spare needle for front sleeve section; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for back section of right sleeve, and complete as for back section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for front sleeve section, and complete as for front section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Make Up and Neck Borders

Join front raglan seams and right back seam matching vertical stripes. With right side of work facing and using No 11 (3mm) needles, using main colour A, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the neck opening at the top of the left sleeve, 41 stitches round front neck edge, 15 stitches along neck opening at the top of the right sleeve and 32 stitches across the back neck.
Beginning with the 2nd row work in single rib as on the welt for 9 rows then cast off loosely ribwise.
Join left back raglan seam and the ends of the neck border.
Fold this border in half to the wrong side, and slip-stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.
Join side and sleeve seams.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - purple;
5 (6, 6) in contrast colour B - bright teal.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BeautifulBriocheDiagram

© Christina Coutts 2007

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