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February 2018

Yellow Blazer

Blazer.jpg

I was told last autumn that red was definitely THE colour of the season, and then - after my wardrobe became impossibly bold - I was told that it was all about neutrals! Similarly last Spring I was told that yellow was the colour - just a splash or dash - and now apparently it is definitely THE colour for Spring.
Whatever you believe, this is a staple 50s jacket which you can knit in a single colour - entirely in yellow - or entirely without yellow. Whatever colour scheme you go for, make sure of those wonderful coordinating giant buttons before you start.

So: "Use a clear sharp sulphur yellow -- vivid contrast with white."

Instructions.

Instructions give for 2 sizes- larger size given in brackets thus ().
Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No 8 needles white yarn (W), cast on 104 (110) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch [that is: knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows throughout], ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): purl in the usual way.
These 2 rows mark the hemline.

With right side facing, continue straight in twisted stocking stitch until back measures 15 (15) inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of following 6 (8) knit rows. [82 (84) sts]

Work straight until back measures 23½ (23½) inches from hemline.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Cast off remaining 30 (32) stitches.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With white (W) yarn, cast on 24 (26) stitches and work about 3½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Purl, working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Cast on 35, p17, slip 1 purlways, purl to end. [79 (83) sts]

Continue in twisted stocking stitch as follows:
Next row: Knit to last 18 stitches, slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: purl. Rep. these 2 rows until front measures 5 inches from hemline ending with a purl row.

Introduce pocket as follows:
Next row: k15 (16), cast off 24 (26), k22 (23), slip 1 purlways, k17.
Next row: Purl, purling across 24 (26) stitches of one pocket lining in place of those stitches cast off in the previous row.

Now continue straight in twisted stocking-stitch as before until front measures 15 (15) inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.

Continue in pattern shaping armhole and increasing 6 stitches in the border after the slipstitch as follows:

Next row: Cast off 5, knit to last 18 stitches, Slip 1 purlways, [increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, k3] 5 times, increase 1 as before, k2.
Break W yarn

Next row (wrong side facing): join in yarn Y, (k1, wool forward, slip 1 purlways, wool over needle] 11 times, k1 in Y; rejoin W and purl to end in W.
Next row: K2tog, knit to the slip stitch in W, slip 1 purlways, then in Y, [p1, wool back, k2tog through back loops, wool forward] 11 times, p1.
Next row: in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1 in Y, purl to end in W.
Note: Twist the wools on the wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

Repeat the last 2 rows 5 (7) times more.
This completes armhole shaping.

Now continue straight until front measures 21½ inches from the hemline, keeping 23 stitches of border in twisted rib pattern in Y for revers as before.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 23 stitches in Y.
Break Y, then cast off 17 (19) stitches in W, purl to end in W.

Continue in twisted stocking stitch in W decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 (8) rows. [26 sts].
Work straight until front measures same as back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 (6) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 (5) stitches at the beginning of the following 4 alternate rows, at the armhole edge.

Right Front:

With No 8 needles and W, cast on 44 (48) stitches and work 1½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row (right side facing): Cast on 35, k17, slip 1 purlways, k17, p44 (48) working into the back of every stitch.
Next row (wrong side facing): Purl in the usual way.

Work to correspond with left front reversing shapings and with the addition of 3 double buttonholes. First to come 3½ inches up from lower edge and remaining 2 at 5-inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole:
Next row (right side facing): k5, cast off 7, k5, slip 1 purlways, k5, cast off 7, knit to end.
Next row: Purl, casting on 7 over those cast off.

Your pocket row will read: (right side facing), k17, slip 1 purlways, k22 (23), cast off 24 (26), k15 (16).

The increase row before start of armhole will read: (right side facing), k2, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, [k3, increase 1 as before] 5 times, slip 1 purlways, knit to end.

On the next row start armhole shaping and introduce fancy rib in Y. as follows:
Cast off 5, purl to last 23 stitches in W, join in Y, [k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways, won] 11 times, k1.

Sleeves:

With Y yarn, cast on 53 stitches.

1st row (wrong side facing): * k1, wfd., Slip 1 purlways,won; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, wool back, k2togtbl, wfd; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
These 2 rows form the fancy rib pattern.

Continue in fancy rib for 3 inches ending with 2nd pattern row.

Continuing in pattern start to increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 93 stitches
Note: As the pattern is a multiple of 2 stitches keep increased stitches in stocking stitch until you have an extra 2 at each end, then take
them into the pattern.

Work straight in pattern until sleeve seam measures 18 (19) inches from start of fancy rib pattern, ending with 2nd pattern row.

With wrong side facing, continue in pattern shaping top by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every alternate row until 59 stitches remain, then at each end of every row until 19 stitches remain.
Cast off in rib.

Collar

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing and yarn Y, pick up and k. 93 stitches all round neck, beginning and ending at the slipped-stitch of front borders.
Work 2½ inches in twisted stocking stitch, starting and ending with a purl row.
Shape by working short rows as follows:
Knit to the last 6 stitches, turn, purl to the last 6 stitches, turn; knit to last 10 stitches, turn; purl to last 10 stitches, turn; knit to last 14 stitches, turn; purl to last 14 stitches, turn; knit to last 18 stitches, turn; purl to last 18 stitches, turn.
Knit back to end picking up horizontal loop and knitting it together with
next stitch where work was turned to avoid a hole.

Next row: Purl, across all stitches, picking up horizontal loops in the same way.
Increase 28 stitches across next row as follows:
k5, increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and
knitting into back of it, k4, increase 1 as before, [k3, increase 1 as before] 25 times, k4, increase 1 as before, k5.
[121 (121) sts]
Now with wrong side facing, change to fancy rib pattern as for sleeves and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with 2nd pattern row.
Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Press stocking stitch parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Now make up double collar and double front borders as follows:
Fold collar and front borders in half with right side inside; join short sides of collar, then join cast-off edge of front facing to cast-off edge of collar on wrong side to form revers.
Turn right side out and press.
Now slip-hem inner edge of collar neatly all round neck on wrong side.

Slip-hem front facing in position on wrong side [note that the slipped stitch in the knitting marks the edge of the fold up the front edges].

Oversew loosely around the double buttonholes.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.

Turn under 1½ inches of stocking-stitch up to hemline all round lower
edge and slip-hem in position. Turn under 1½ inches all round
each sleeve and slip-hem on wrong side.

Catch down pocket linings, then with yarn W and (right side facing), pick up and knit 24 (26) stitches along cast-off edge of each pocket opening. Work 2 inches twisted stocking-stitch; cast off loosely.

Fold pocket tops in half to wrong side and slip-hem, then catch down sides of pocket tops to main work.

Press all seams and hems.
With crochet hook and yarn Y make 3 circles in dc to cover buttons. Sew circles firmly over buttons, then sew in position on left front.

Materials

Double Knitting:
11 (12) ozs in sulphur yellow (Y);
15 (16) ozs in white (W).

A pair each No 8 (4mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Three large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches over the twisted stocking stitch

Size matters

To fit 33-34 (35-37) inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 24 ins;
sleeve seam: 15½ (16½)inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

won: "wool over needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": bring the wool to the front of the work.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette")
twisted stocking stitch is a variation whereby you knit into the back of every stitch on the knit rows, and execute the purl rows as normal; this gives a texture to the knitting.

Crochet abbreviations:

dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Blazer2.jpg

It is interesting to note that this jacket is referenced as being a revamp of a previous model (which I have yet to find). This picture above is obviously how it was made up for the photo shoot - ie in a single colour. You can peer at the detail in the colour photo and pretty easily see that the yellow colour has been painted in after the event. I am keen on trying out changes to the photos - lightly tinting black and white pictures etc - but these changes would have been made by skillful application using a real air brush technique rather than Photoshop.

January 2018

Shetland folklore tunic

ShetlandFolkTunic.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn tunic in a double knitting weight yarn.

Although this pattern is from the seventies, it evokes a much earlier era to me. I remember my friend Sara having a cardigan just like this, (in colour and pom-poms), knitted by her Mother in the 1960s. I have had cardigan envy ever since. However - I am sure a tunic would suit me even better!

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the yoke pattern from the chart, strand yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 241 [249, 257, 265] stitches and work as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): (k1, p1) 23 times; k1, p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch with a coloured thread); p2togtbl, k1; (p1, k1) 68 [72, 76, 80] times; p2tog, p1 (mark this stitch as before); p2togtbl, k1; (p1. k1) 23 times.
2nd row: * p1, k1; rep from * to within 2 stitches of first marked st; sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to within 2 stitches of 2nd marked stitch, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, rib to end.
Keeping continuity of rib, continue to decrease in this way working in stripes of a further 2 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D.

Next row: In D, cast off 38 stitches evenly in rib; in M, p9 [11, 12, 13] (including stitch on needle after cast off), p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 32 [34, 36, 38] times, p10 [10, 11, 12]; then in D, cast off remaining stitches in rib. [84 [90, 96, 102] sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and with M, work in stocking stitch starting with a knit row until back measures 6 inches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: Cast on 8, knit these stitches, knit to end, cast on 8. [100, 106, 112, 118].
Continue on these stitches and work 11 rows.

Shape sides as follows:
Next row: k9, k2togtbl, knit to last 11 stitches, k2tog, k9.
Work 11 rows.
Repeat the decrease row once more. [100, 102, 108, 114 sts].
Work straight until Back measures 17 inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
‡‡

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more. [90, 94, 98, 102 sts].

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 86 stitches remain, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 0 [2, 4, 6] times more. [92 sts].

Shape neck by working short rows as follows:
1st row: k2tog, k28, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
2nd row: Cast off 8, purl to end.
3rd row: k2tog, knit to end.
4th row: Cast off 7, purl to end.
5th row: k2tog, knit to end.
6th row: Cast off 5, purl to end. [7 sts].

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and following alternate row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows. [2 sts].
Next row: p2tog and fasten off.
Leave centre 32 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder, and with
right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and M, cast on 42 [44, 46, 48] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib and stripes of 4 rows M, 2 rows D, 2 rows L, 2 rows M, 2 rows D. [12 rows]

Continue in M until rib measures 3 inches, increasing across last row as follows : (rib 2, m1) 7 times; (rib 1, m1) 16 [18, 20, 22] times; (rib 2, m1) 5 times; rib 2. [70, 74, 78, 82 sts].

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work straight until sleeve measures 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches measured at centre, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by casting off 1 [2, 3, 4] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 3 rows.

Repeat the last 4 rows 1 [2, 3, 4] times more. [64 sts]

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following alternate row. [60 sts]
Work 1 row.
Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Yoke

With right side facing, slip first 43 stitches of back on a length of yarn.

With circular or set of No 8 (4 mm) needles and M, knit the remaining 43 stitches from back, marking first of these stitches as the start of the rounds; knit 60 from sleeve, knit up 31 down left side of neck, knit 32 from front, knit up 31 up right side of neck, knit 60 from second sleeve, then finally knit 43 from length of yarn (or stitch holder). [300 sts]

Divide these stitches evenly on 3 of the set of needles.

Joining in D and L as required work the 50 rounds from the chart, repeating the 20 pattern stitches 15 times in each round and decreasing where indicated.
Work all rounds knit, reading chart from right to left.

On completion of the above rounds the number of stitches remaining will be:
17th round: 270 stitches.
21st round: 240 stitches.
31st round: 210 stitches.
35th round: 180 stitches.
45th round: 150 stitches.
49th round: 120 stitches.

Next round: in M, decrease 8 [8, 4, 4] stitches evenly. [112, 112, 116, 116 sts]

Make holes as follows:
Next round: In M, yfwd, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Work 1 round.
Break M.

Change to set of No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and in L, work 3 rounds.
Work holes as before for picot edging.
Work 2 rounds.
Cast off loosely.

Making Up

Omitting cuffs, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Use 30 inch lengths of yarn and a large sewing needle for make up, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.
Join armhole and sleeve seams.
Using a flat seam, sew side borders neatly in position catching border edges to cast-on stitches.
Join side seams to within 5½ inches of lower edge.
Fold picot hem at row of holes to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

In M, make 2 pompons.

Make Cord: Using 6 strands of M, make a twisted cord 45 in long. Thread through row of holes at neck. Sew a pompon to each end of cord.

Materials

6 [7, 7, 8] 50g balls Shetland DK in main shade (M) "Ocean Deep", plus 1 ball each in 2 contrasts:
"Heatherette" (D) and
"Snow White" (L)

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Sets of 4 each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or circulars.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97] cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 26 [26½,
27, 27½] inches, (66 [67, 69, 70] cm);
sleeve seam: 18½ [18½, 19, 19] inches, (47 [47, 48, 48] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

k2togtbl or p2togtbl: knit or purl 2 stitches together through back loops.
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker than that but the tension given here suggests slightly thinner!

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2017

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningPlane1.jpg

A jolly little waistcoat for the lucky 3 year old who is having a new toy engine or or aeroplane.
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the various motifs.

How far away those days seem - or actually "are"! Even in my era - as attested by James May in Top Toys - boys (not girls of course!) were fixated by rockets and action men - though Airfix was as popular as ever.
Nonetheless - a "jolly little waistcoat" - for retro 3 years olds and their retro parents.

Instructions:

The waistcoat is worked in one piece and in one size - stated as a 3 year old but remembering that children tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s. As usual, you could probably increase the size successfully by using a heavier wool and larger needles.

Back and Fronts in one

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 145 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib - rows on the right side having k1 and each end.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work in pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 24 pattern stitches 6 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Carry MS wool across on each row but join in lengths of appropriate shades (or use bobbins) for each motif: work the required number of stitches for the motif colour, drop wool, then pick it up again on the return row.

Work the 52 rows once, then, continuing to work motifs from the chart, and with right side facing, divide for armholes thus:

Next row: pattern 36, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern on these 33 stitches for the right front, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 6 rows. [27 sts]

Work straight in pattern to the end of the 34th row of the chart.

With right side facing, continue in MS only, shaping neck by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at the neck edge on the next 5 rows.
Next row: Knit.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (armhole edge).

With right side facing, join wool to the remaining stitches.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 70, turn and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 67.

Continue on these 67 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 rows.

Work straight to end of the 34th row of the chart.

Change to MS only and work 8 rows straight, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

With right side facing, join wool to last 36 stitches, armhole edge, and cast off 3, pattern to end, then work to correspond with right front.

Ribbed Front Borders

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 11 stitches and working in k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end, make a strip to go up the right front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along and leave the stitches on a safety pin at the top.

Make a similar strip for left front with the addition of 7 buttonholes, the first to come in the 3rd and 4th rows from the bottom edge, and the 7th about 1 inch from the top (allowing for 8th to be worked in the neckband later), and the remaining 5 at equal intervals.
Mark the position of the buttons with pins on right front to ensure even spacing then work holes to match.

To make a buttonhole:
Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end and then back, casting on 3 over those stitches cast off.

Neck Border

Join shoulder seams.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), rib the 11 stitches from the right front border, pick up and knit 43 stitches all round the neck, then rib the remaining 11 stitches from the left front border. [65 sts]

Work ½ inch in k1/p1 rib making the 8th buttonhole after ¼ inch has been done. Cast off in rib.

Armhole Borders

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), pick up and knit 89 stitches round each armhole.
Work ½ inch k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

2 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade and 1 oz each in emerald and scarlet.
Oddments or small balls in brown and royal blue (see photo at the end).

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

32 sts to 4 inches on No 10 (3¼mm) needles over Fair Isle pattern.

Size matters

One size - width all round under arm 22 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 12 inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningPlane2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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