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Archive entry for February 2011

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February 2011

Jester Socks

JesterSocks1.jpg

These socks were adapted from a wonderful elderly pattern, and were lots of fun to knit, (and wear!). They make me think of those dusty Jester colours though - mustard yellow, a dull brick red, a saddened teal...

Instructions.

Cast on 128 stitches and start working in garter stitch - knit 4 rows.

5th row: increase in first stitch, k62, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K62, increase in last stitch.
6th row and every alternate row up to row 13: Knit
7th row: increase in first stitch, k64, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K64, increase in last stitch.
9th row: increase in first stitch, k66, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.
11th row: increase in first stitch, k68, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K68, increase in last stitch.
13th row: increase in first stitch, k70, increase in next stitch, increase in next stitch, K66, increase in last stitch.

Knit another 13 rows on these 148 stitches.
Now proceed in stocking stitch and shape by working short rows as follows:
27th row: K72, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
28th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn
29th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40, turn
30th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39, turn

Repeat 29th and 30th rows 14 times, thus completing 58th row.

59th row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k40.
60th row: P39, p2tog, p2togtbl, p39.
61st row: K38, k2togtbl, k2tog, k38.
62nd row: P37, p2tog, p2togtbl, p37.
63rd row: K36, k2togtbl, k2tog, k36.
64th row: P35, p2tog, p2togtbl, p35.
65th row: K34, k2togtbl, k2tog, k34.
66th row: P33, p2tog, p2togtbl, p33.
67th row: K32, k2togtbl, k2tog, k32.
68th row: P31, p2tog, p2togtbl, p31.

Make slots for ribbon on next row thus:
Slot row: K1, (k2tog, wfd, k2) to last 3 sts, k2tog, wfd, k1.
Next row: Purl.
Break off wool.
Now work the points as follows:
With right side of work facing you slip the first 11 sts onto a piece of thread; join wool to next stitch, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining sts. on a spare needle, continue only on these 21 sts, as follows:

2nd row (first point): P1, (k1, p1) 10 times.

Continue in rib but decrease 1 stitch at each ent of the next row and every alternate row until 3 sts. remain.
Knit 3 together and fasten off.

With right side of work facing you. join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle, then k1, (p1, k1) 10 times, turn, leaving the remaining 11 sts on the spare needle.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Join underfoot and back seam.

With right side of work facing you, join wool to inner end of sts on spare needle. (k1, p1) 5 times, then knit last stitch on spare needle together with first stitch on on the thread, after which (p1, k1) 5 times over remaining sts on thread.
Now work as first point, starting with its 2nd row.

Make another sock in the same way.

Run ribbon through slots at ankles.

Cuff Variation

You can see from the photo below that I added another layer of points to my sock.
I cast on 64 sts and worked 6 rows in rib. I then worked the points in moss stitch as given for the points on the main sock, but I decreased on every 3rd row instead of every alternate row to make the points longer. When I had finished I sewed the cuff to the inside of the sock matching the points on the second cuff to the gaps between the points on the sock. I attached the cuff just below the eyelet row.

JesterSocks3.jpg

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4ply
I used Cygnet 4ply colour 2041 (yellow)

A pair each of No
11 (3mm) needles.

A yard of narrow ribbon.
(I used a twisted cord of yarn).

Tension

32sts x 40 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Foot length about 9 inches, length down back about 5 inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
tbl: through back loops (also known as ssk).
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.

A word on the wool.

The original socks were knitted in "Wendy Family Wool 4ply". I chose to use Cygnet yarn not only because it is a good (75/25) blend for socks but also I wanted the lovely bright "Jester" yellow - and I was surprised that in the vast array of available yarns in my local John Lewis, I could not find any true yellows in any weight of wool - obviously not fashionable currently. The "brights" seem to be limited to cotton blends, which in my experience are not good for socks.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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