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Archive entry for 2014

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December 2014

Old Shale Angel

OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg

A really pretty top using the ubiquitous but nonetheless charming old shale (or old shell) stitch. Originally it was knitted in fine white cotton bands interspersed with a fine slightly fluffy yarn, giving it a summery feel. However - how charming it would be in red and white for a small person's party outfit at Christmas. I am not sure how I would arrange the colours for a winter version - I favour the dominant red colour for the plain garter stitch - but it might be interesting to have the white as the fluffy bands simulating fur trimming.

The pattern is for an entire outfit with pants, and some cute little cotton sandals (of dubious value...!).

Instructions for Angel Top

The angel top is worked in a combination garter stitch (every row knitted) and a Wave pattern using "old shale" (or shell) stitch.

When working the Wave pattern, carry the yarn not in use loosely up the side of the work.

Angel Top - main section

This section is worked in one piece up to the armhole.

Using 3mm needles and pink yarn (A) , cast on 192 sts and knit one row.

Continuing with yarn A begin Wave pattern as follows:

1st row (right side) : Knit.
2nd - 4th rows: Knit

Join in white yarn (B), working 5th - 14th rows in white:

5th row: Sl 1; * (k2tog) 3 times; (k1, yfwd) 6 times; k1; (k2tog) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
6th row:
Purl.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: Purl.
9th - 14th rows: Repeat rows 5-8 once, then rows 5 and 6 again.

These 14 rows form the pattern,

Repeat the pattern 3 (4) times more, then work the 1st to 3rd rows again.

Divide for armhole:

Next row (wrong side): K57, increase in the next 2 sts, k74, increase in the next st, and leave these 137 sts on a stitch holder; increase in the next st, knit to end.

Continue on these remaining 59 sts to make the Left Back. Work rows 5-14, break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K6; (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2) 7 times, k4. [45 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 24 (27½) cm, or 9½ (10¾) inches, ending with a right side row.

Cast off, placing a marker for the collar on the 26th stitch from the end.

With right side facing, rejoin white yarn B to sts on stitch holder and pattern 78 (as 5th row of Wave pattern); turn and leave remaining sts on stitch holder.

Continue in pattern on these 78 sts for Front and work rows 6-14.
Break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K4; (k2tog, k2) 18 times, k2. [60 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 20 (23½) cm, or 7¾ () inches, ending with a right side row.

Shape Neck:

Next row (wrong side): K27 and leave on a stitch holder; cast off 6 sts; knit to end.

Continue on remaining 27 sts for first side:

1st and every alternate row: Knit

2nd row (wrong side): cast off 3 sts, knit to end.
4th row: cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row:
cast off 1 st, knit to end.
8th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.
10th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.

Work a few rows on remaining 19 sts until Front matches Left Back to shoulder.
Cast off.


With right side facing, rejoin yarn A to 27 sts of front left on stitch holder and k27.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shaping.

With right side facing, rejoin white to 59 sts on stitch holder and pattern 59 (as 5th row of Wave pattern).
Finish Right Back to correspond with Left Back, reversing placing of marker for Collar.

Angel Top - sleeves

With 2½mm needles and yarn A, cast on 30 sts and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (wrong side): K1, (ml, k1) 29 times. [59 sts]

Change to 3mm needles, join in white yarn B and beginning with 5th row of the Wave pattern, work in pattern until sleeve measures approximately 11 (14½) cm, or 4¼ () inches, ending with a 14th pattern row.

Break off yarn B and continue in yarn A only.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a stitch holder.

Angel Top - collar

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 120 sts and work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn A, and join in yarn B.

1st row: Sl 1 , * k1, yfwd, k4, k2tog, sl 1, k1, psso, K4, yfwd; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: purl.

Rep these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: Sl 1 , * k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. [93 sts]
Cast off.

Angel Top - neck band

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 60 sts and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Making Up the Angel Top

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams.
Join sleeves to main part, unpicking contrast yarn and working stitch by stitch in back stitch on right side.
Sew Collar into neck opening, starting and ending at back markers.
Sew Neck Border over Collar, joining to Main Part in same way as the sleeves.
Make 2 buttonhole loops at Left Back and sew buttons on Right Back to correspond.

Materials

1 x 50g ball yarn A (pink),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (white)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Stitch holders.

2 buttons.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Yarn A: 25sts x 38 rows and yarn B: 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn A was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Yarn B was their 100% cotton "Perlé 5" yarn with a yardage of 219 yards (200 meters). I used a substitute Twilleys thread for this.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelOutfit.jpg


Instructions for Pants

The pants are worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted) in one piece, starting at the front waist, working down to the crotch, and then up the back, ending at the back waist.

Begin at front and with 2½mm needles cast on 48(56) sts and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 3mm needles and work 8(10) cms 3¼() inches in garter stitch, noting that 1st row you knitted is the right side, and ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for leg openings:

Next row: Knit 13(17) and leave on a stitch holder; k22, turn, and leave remaining 13 (17) sts on a stitch holder.

Continue on these centre 22 sts and work 9(10) cms 3½() inches in garter stitch,ending with a right side row.
Break yarn and leave 22 sts on a stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on first stitch holder and knit to end.
Continue on these 13(17) sts for left side of pants and work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a wrong side row.

** Begin shaping side by decreasing 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 6th(4th) row.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 4th row 2(1) times. [8(13) sts]
Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 1(2) alternate rows. [6(10) sts]
Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next and following 0(1) alternate rows. [4(6) sts]
Break yarn and leave these sts on a stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on 2nd stitch holder and knit to end. [13(17) sts]
Work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a right side row.

Shape Front Sides

Working right side of pants as left side from ** until 6(8) sts remain, ending at side edge.

Continue shaping sides and join all 3 parts to close leg openings:

Next row (wrong side): cast off 2 sts, k4(6) (including st left on needle after cast-off), k22 from centre, then k4(6) from left side. [30(34) sts]
Continue working across all stitches:

Next 2 rows: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 2 rows: Cast off 2(3) sts, knit to end
Next 2 rows: Cast Off 3(4) sts, knit to end.
Work 2 rows on remaining 16 sts.

Shape Back

2nd SIZE
Next 2 rows: Cast on 4 sts, knit to end.

BOTH SIZES
Next 2 rows: Cast on 3 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 rows: Cast on 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 (8) rows: Cast on 1 st, knit to end.
Work 3 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row 2 times. [46(56) sts]

1st SIZE
Work 5 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of the next row. [48 sts ]

BOTH SIZES
Continue straight until Back matches Front to start of rib.
Change to 2½mm needles and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pants

Leg Borders: With right side facing and using set of 4 needles, knit up 46(51) sts round each leg opening and work in rounds.

1st round: Purl
2nd round: Knit
Rep these 2 rows twice more.
Cast off loosely purlways.

Join side seams.

Materials

Pants: 1x 50g ball [suggested to be 257 yards / (235 meters]

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.
Set of 4, 2½mm (UK 12) needles with points at both ends.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

25sts x 38 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn used for the Pants was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelSandals.jpg

Instructions for Sandals

With 2mm hook make 20 chain foundation row.

SOLE

1st round: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 17ch, 3 dc in next ch, then back along other side of foundation: 1 ch: 1 dc in each of next 18 ch, 3 dc in next ch, sl st to join.

Work 2 more rounds, working 3 dc in stitch at each end of sole as before.

4th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 3 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice; sl st to join.

5th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 5 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts) twice; sl st to join. [66 sts]

Work 1 round dc on these 66 sts to complete sole and fasten off.

With right side facing, mark 33 sts round one end of sole and work back of sandal working back and forth in rows:

1st row: Rejoin yarn. 3 ch; miss 1 st; 1 tr in next st; (1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr in next st) 15 times, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch and tr on previous row. [33 sts]
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: 2 ch, 1 tr in each ch and tr on previous row.
5th row: As 1st row.
6th row: Without turning, work in crab stitch back across the row.

Fasten Off.

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right (assuming you are right handed and normally crochet from left to right). It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

TOE

Make 18 ch.
Foundation Row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end.
Mark centre st.
2nd row: work a row of dc, working 3 dc in centre stitch.
3rd row: work a row of dc, working 5 dc in centre stitch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along shaped edge.
Fasten off.

STRAPS for TOP of SANDAL

Make 26 ch and work Foundation Row as for Toe. [25 sts]

2nd and 3rd rows: 1 ch, 1 dc in each stitch to end.
Break yarn.

Miss 11 sts and rejoin yarn to next stitch 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches. [3 sts]

Work 3cms (1¼ inches) in dc on these 3 sts, then continue in crab stitch round all edges, making a buttonhole at each side of 3 dc strip,
and as close as possible to the tip.

To Make a Buttonhole

2 ch, miss 2 rows, 1 dc in next row.

ANKLE STRAP

Make 17 ch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along both sides.

TO MAKE UP

Sew Toe and Sandal Straps in place on sole, (see photo).
Join Ankle Strap to top of Sandal Back; pass through buttonholes worked on each side of the 3 dc strap.
Work buttonhole loop at end of Ankle Strap, and sew button to Sandal to correspond.
Work a row of crab stitch round outer edge of Sole.


Make a second sandal and reverse position of Ankle Strap and button.

Materials

1 ball cotton 3 ply - possible yardage: 219 yards (200 meters).

2mm crochet hook.

2 small buttons

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Equivalent tension of 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Phildar 100% cotton "Perlé 5" with a suggested yardage of 219 yards (200 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Notes on English Crochet Stitches

Double crochet:
draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble*:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble*:
pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble*:
pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

* not used in this pattern.


Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch - a picture painting a thousand words and so on.

November 2014

Poncho Capes - striped or plain...

PonchoCape1.jpg

Ponchos are being cited as a trend at the moment - and also apparently: fringes. So here you have the perfect combination. From the 1970s (of course) this is a rather good plain shape and very simple to knit all in garter stitch - if you like that kind of thing, or yearn to recreate a piece of history.

"See how cool I am with my striped poncho in natural earth tones..."
"Look! What's that over there?"
"Whatever you say, I'm not looking - you are merely trying to compensate for your lack of cool stripeyness."

Instructions.

Instructions given for striped version with pattern rows as follows:

1st - 16th rows: knit in main shade.
17th - 20th rows: knit in contrast.

These 20 rows form the stripe pattern.

The plain version is worked in exactly the same way but using only one colour.

Back and Front (alike)

(Worked sideways, starting at left side for Back and right side for Front).

With No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 58 stitches and joining in contrast (C) as required, work in garter stitch (every row knit) and stripe pattern throughout, starting with 2nd pattern row, shaping as follows:

1st and following alternate rows (wrong side): Knit.
2nd row: Cast on 5 stitches; knit these 5 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: As second row.
6th row: As second row.
8th row: Cast on 4 stitches; knit these 4 stitches, knit to end.
10th row: As 8th row.
12th row: As 8th row.
14th row: Cast on 3 stitches; knit these 3 stitches, knit to end.
16th row: Cast on 2 stitches; knit these 2 stitches, knit to end.
17th row: Knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, and at the same edge on every row until there are 106 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row, until there are 112 stitches.

Work 3 rows.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every 4th row, until there are 117 stitches, then at the beginning of every following 6th row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 113 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 108 stitches remain.

Work 34 rows.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 113 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every 6th row until 116 stitches remain, then at the end of every following 4th row until 111 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 106 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 90 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Work 1 row.

Now cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows.

Cast off the remaining 58 stitches.


Borders and Making Up

Do not press.

Back Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 needles and contrast colour, knit up 45 stitches all round the neck.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Front Neck Border:
Work as for Back Neck Border.

Using a flat seam, join shoulder seams leaving 3 inches open at each side of the neck.

Back shoulder opening borders:
With right side facing, No 3½mm hook and contrast colour, work 2 rows double crochet (American single crochet) along back shoulder openings.
Fasten off.

Front shoulder opening borders:
Work as for Back shoulder opening borders with the addition of 3 button loops evenly spaced on 2nd row.

To make a button loop: 3 chain, miss 2 dc, dc into next dc.

Neatly catch down the base of the borders, front over back.

Cut remaining yarn into 10 inch lengths and taking 4 strands together each time, knot all round outer edge, matching main shade to main shade and contrast to contrast, (as in the photo), to form a fringe.
Trim fringes.

Sew two sets of buttons in position as in photograph (1 button on back, the other to correspond on front).
[Editor's Note: I think the addition of the button to make a kind of sleeve is a good design feature - or would be if it were functional; however this version has a sleeve button that seems to be purely decorative, so I might choose to omit it altogether - thus saving on the investment in 4 extra buttons!]

Sew remaining 6 buttons on shoulders to correspond with button loops.

Press seams.

Materials

Pure wool striped version in superwash double knitting 15 x 50g balls in main shade; 4 in contrast;
Pure wool plain version in tweed double knitting: 19 x 50g balls.

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One 3½mm crochet hook.

10 buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4 mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is written to fit bust: 32-38 inches; length from top of shoulders (excluding fringe) 25 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2014

Coolie Hat

CoolieHat.jpg

An amusing little tweed hat from the 1950s for you to crochet.
It uses the same yarn and technique as the tweed coat for January 2015.

Instructions.

Note: The Bouclet is used double throughout with one ball of white together with one ball of black.

Begin at the centre crown.

Make 4 chain, join into a ring with a slip stitch

1st round: 9 dc through centre of ring, join with a slip stitch
2nd round: 3 ch; * 2 half trebles in 1 dc, 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 3 times more; join with a slip stitch to top of 3 ch
All following half treble rounds are joined as in this round.
3rd round: 1 ch; * 2 dc in 1 htr, 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * 6 times more, join with a slip stitch to top of 1st ch
All following dc rounds are joined as in this round.

4th round: 3 ch; * 2 htr in 1 dc , 1 htr in l dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
5th round: 1 ch;* 2 dc in 1 htr, 2 dc in 2 htr; repeat from * 9 times more.
6th round: 3 ch; * 2 htr in 1 dc , 3 htr in 3 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
7th round:
1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
8th round:
3 ch; * 4 htr in 4 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc ; repeat from * 9 times more.
9th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
10th round:
3 ch, * 5 htr in 5 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc ; repeat from * 9 times more.
11th round:
1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
12th round: 3 ch; * 6 htr in 6 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
13th round:
1 ch;* 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
14th round:
3 ch; *7 htr in 7 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
15th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
16th round: 3 ch; * 8 htr in 8 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
17th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
18th round: 3 ch; * 9 htr in 9 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 9 times more.
19th round: 1 ch; * 1 dc in 1 htr; repeat from * all round.
20th round: 3 ch; * 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * all round.
21st round: As 19th round.
22nd round:
As 20th round.
23rd round: As 19th round.

Fasten off.

Brim

Make 100 ch, join into a ring with a slip stitch.

1st round: 100 dc in 100 ch.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th rounds: As 1st round.
5th round: 3 ch, * 1 htr in 1 dc, 2 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * 49 times more.
6th round: Lay wire along edge of round just worked and work over the wire with 1 dc in 1 htr all round.
Cut wire allowing it to overlap by about 2 inches.

7th round: 3 ch, * 1 htr in 1 dc; repeat from * all round, join with a slip stitch.
8th - 11th rounds: As 6th round but
working over wire.
Cut wire leaving about 2 inches.

Fasten off securely.

To Make Up

Sew over bare ends of wire with wool.
Join brim to crown by placing the right sides together and work a row of back stitching g-inch in from edge.
Place hat over a basin and press with warm iron and a damp cloth.

Materials

2 ozs each in black and white of "bouclet" yarn.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A No 10 (3¼mm ) crochet hook
[Editor's note: If you cannot get a 3¼mm hook then you can use 3½mm or equivaent to get the right tension]

Millinery wire

Tension

10dc measures 2 inches

Size matters

To fit "an average head"

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
htr: half treble

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet; htr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and 1 will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The orginal yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The tweed effect of the hat is created using the yarn double with black and white together.
It is possible to find fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting.

However, I think it is quite hard to work with yarn doubled at the best of times. I can only imagine that a bouclé would be even worse, and to crochet like this .... well you would need to be very determined. In defence of the original pattern, I think the bouclet specified was not a very loose loopy yarn; I believe it just has a gentle ripple in the spin.

So given that you have to find a substitute anyway, I would look for some kind of textured yarn which will give the right tension with a single strand - that would be a worsted or Aran weight - bearing in mind that the work is intended to have a tight tension to make a firm fabric suitable for a hat - even though you have some support with the wire.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. I have no yardage information to offer.

Whatever you choose - try out a swatch!

September 2014

Honeycomb Cardigan

HoneycombCardiganC.jpg

I am very keen on this clever slip stitch method of making a honeycomb pattern. This cardigan is from the 1980s knitted in a bouclé chunky yarn. I thought it makes a good option if (as I do) you love a design in the latest Rowan magazine (56), but want something quicker and easier to knit. I have mocked up a colour scheme to show what it might look like, using 2 contrast spots instead of 6, making the sleeves plain and adding coloured bands; you could also make bracelet length sleeves (also a favourite of mine) but maybe less appropriate in a chunky weight cardigan.

One benefit of the design as it stands is that you could potentially use up left over yarn in the contrast spots - you could even have every set of spotted rows a different colour for a fun design.

Instructions.

The pattern is given in 3 sizes; the smallest size first and the 2nd and third sizes in brackets. Where only one number is given it applies to all 3 sizes.

Back

With Main (M) wool and No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 56 stitches. Work in k1/p1 rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (8, 0), * increase in the next stitch, rib 3 (3, 4); repeat from * to last 0 (0, 4) stitches. For 3rd size increase in next stitch rib 3. [69 (73, 77) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row. Now work in pattern thus:

1st row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
4th row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
5th row: with M, knit.
6th row: with M, purl.

7th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
8th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
9th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
10th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
11th and 12th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

13th to 16th rows - with 3rd contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
17th and 18th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

19th to 22nd rows - with 4th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
23rd and 24th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

25th to 28th rows - with 5th contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
29th and 30th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

31st to 34th rows - with 6th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
35th and 36th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

These 36 rows form the pattern, and are repeated throughout.

Note: you can carry yarns not in use loosely up the side of the work to avoid too many joins.

Continue until work measures 37 cm, 14½ inches, from beginning, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Armholes:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row until 53 (57, 61) stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 58 (59, 60) cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 4 (6, 5) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Slip remaining 25 (25, 27) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Left front

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 27 (31, 31) stitches. Work in k1/p1
rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, beginning alternate rows with p1, and finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: * Rib 3 (4, 4), increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 3 (1, 1) stitches; rib 3 (1, 1). [33 (37, 37) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.

Continue in pattern as for back and work straight until front is same length as back to armhole, finishing at side edge, with same patt row.

Shape Armhole:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge of the next 4 alternate rows. [25 (29, 29) sts]
Continue without further shaping until work measures 54cm, 21¼ inches, finishing at front edge.

Shape Neck:
Cast off 3 (4, 4) stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge on every row until 14 (16, 17) stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work is same length as back to shoulder, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row and the following alternate row. [4 (6, 5) sts]

Work one row.
Cast off

Right front

Work as for left front, reversing shaping.

Sleeves (both alike)

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 32 stitches.

Work in

Next row: Work in rib, increasing in every 6th stitch. [37 sts]

Change to 6mm needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.
Work as for the 19th to 36th rows of the back, at the same time increasing one stitch at each end of the 7th row and every following
8th row.

Then beginning with the 1st pattern row, continue in main pattern as for the back, still increasing on every 8th row until there are 53 stitches, working new stitches into the pattern as soon as possible.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 45cm, 17½ inches, finishing with the same pattern row as on the back at armhole shaping.

Shape Top:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of the next 8 (6, 6) rows. Then, decrease one stitch at each end of every 4th row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Do not press.
[Editor's note: That is an instruction for the boucle yarn as well as the pattern. For smooth yarns you can press lightly with a damp cloth.]
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.

Neckband:

With 4mm needles and M, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches up right neck, knit across stitches from back increasing 2 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches down left neck. [71 (73, 75) sts]
Work in k1 /p1 rib for 9 rows, beginning alternate rows with p1.
Cast off in rib.

Buttonband:

With 4 mm needles and M, cast on 7 stitches. Work in rib as for neckband until band is long enough, when slightly stretched, to fit up left front. Cast off in rib.

Mark positions for 8 buttons, the first and last to come about 1cm,
½ inch, from cast-on and cast-off edges, with the rest evenly spaced
between.

Buttonhole band:

Work as for buttonband, making buttonholes to match marked positions by casting off 3 centre stitches in one row and casting on 3 stitches in next row.

Set in sleeves, gathering top edge slightly to fit into armholes.
Sew on front bands. Press seams lightly.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

7 (7, 8) 50g balls in main colour. and 2 50g balls in each of 6 Contrasts.
One pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 4 (6mm) knitting needles.

8 buttons.

Tension

14 stitches and 22 rows to 10 centi-
metres (4 inches) measured over
pattern. using 6 mm needles.

Size matters

To fit 86 (91, 97) centimetre,34 (36,
38) inch, bust.
Length, 58 (59, 60)
cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches.
Sleeve seam, 45cm 17½ inches.

A Word on the Wool

Sirdar Romano is a chunky bouclé yarn knitting to a tension of 14-16 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch - which is an average chunky weight. Check the yarn you substitute as chunky covers a fairly wide range of numbers, and adjust your needle size by knitting a swatch.
I have no information on yardage but from memory it was a light weight yarn thus may have had a good yardage - so you may need more than stated if using a different yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2014

Topsy-Turvy Doll

TopsyTurvy2.jpg

I have a mysterious fascination with this type of doll. I have even gone as far as cutting two moulded porcelain dolls at the soft slip stage and sticking them together to create my own porcelain version. I think that this must have all started by my seeing one in the Worthing Museum when I was a small child even though I cannot precisely recall it. As a child I am not sure I would have been so keen to play with such a doll - I liked realistic dolls rather than novelty items. However, it left a lasting impression on me, and here is knitted version for you to try.

Instructions.

This design has two completely different dolls with different dresses - sometimes you even find Red Riding Hood and the Wolf in topsy-turvy form though I find that a bit horrific. However, I quite like the complete negative effect as I made for my bisque doll - one dress in white with red spots, and the other red with white spots - if that appealed then you could easily adapt this pattern by reversing the spot colour dress colours.

Doll Body Back
(Make one in cream and one in brown)

With 3¼ mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 31 sts. Beginning with a knit row, work 20 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows [15sts].
Work 6 rows in stocking stitch . **

Increase one stitch at each end of the next row and the following 2 alternate rows. Then, increase one stitch at each end of the next 5 rows [31 sts]

Work 26 rows in stocking stitch.

*** Decrease one stitch at each end of the next 5 rows [21 sts]

Next row: (p2tog) 3 times, p9, (p2tog) 3 times. [15 sts]
Next row: (k2tog) twice, k7, (k2tog) twice.
Next row: (p2tog) twice, p3, (p2tog) twice.

Cast off.

Doll Body Front
(Make one in cream and one in brown)

Work as for back to **.

Next row: K5, ml; * k1, ml, rep from * 4 times more; k5 [21 sts]
Next row: Purl
Next row: K17. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p12. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p13. Turn.
Cont thus, working one extra stitch on each row until all stitches are worked. Increase one stitch at each end of the next row.
Purl one row.
Increase one stitch at each end of the next 4 rows [31 sts]
Work 26 rows in stocking stitch.

Complete as for back from *** to end.

Doll Arms
(Make 2 in cream and 2 in brown)

With 3¼ mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 12 stitches. Beginning with a knit row, cont in stocking stitch. Increase one stitch at each end of the 3rd and 5th rows [16 sts].
Purl one row.

7th row: K7; increase in each of next 2 stitches, k 7
8th and every alt row: Purl
9th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k2, increase in next stitch, k7
11th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k4, increase in next stitch, k7
13th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k6, increase in next stitch, k7 [24 sts]
15th row: K8, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k8
17th row: K8, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k8

Work 37 rows.

Cast off.

To Make up the Dolls

With right sides together, join body and head, leaving bottom open.
Turn and stuff firmly.
Join dolls together round waist, putting in more stuffing if needed.
Join arms at sides. Stuff end of hand flat, then stuff remainder.
Stitch across tops, then stitch across shoulder, making middle of arm at shoulder seams - arms should drop both ways.
Tie yarn round wrists, and stitch 3 lines to mark fingers, and down the shaping for thumb.
On cream doll work eyebrows and eye shape in small back-stitch, using brown. Work blue satin stitch for eyes, with a black stitch in the centre.
Mark cheeks using rouge or blusher (or embroider if preferred).
On brown doll use black instead of brown and work in white round the eyes.
Work noses in self-colour satin-stitch, starting at top with small stitches, and getting larger, with 2 black dots for nostrils.
Work mouths in red.

Doll Hair

For cream doll, use single brown yarn.
With 3¾ mm needles cast on 22 stitches.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K1; * work loop stitch thus:- insert needle into next stitch knitways; with first finger of left hand under point of right needle wind yarn round finger and needle twice, then round needle once more, draw all loops through stitch and slip them on to left needle, knit together all loops and the stitch and slip off needle together, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row: As 1st row, increasing one stitch at each end.

Repeat the 2nd to 5th rows twice more, then the 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times [28 sts]
Next row: k1; (loop stitch, k2tog) 9 times.
Cast off.

Join cast-on edge to top of face. Fold cast-off edge and join, then shape hair round face and stitch round face and back of head.

For brown doll, work hair in same way, using black yarn double and 3¾ mm needles.

Doll Dress (with spot pattern)

With 3¾ mm Twin Pin (circular needle) and red (R), cast on 202 stitches. Knit 5 rows, then purl one row.
Join in white (W) and continue in stocking stitch, working in pattern thus:-
1st row: Knit 4R, * 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, 2W, 4R.
2nd row: Purl 3R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, rep from * to lastitch 3 stitches, 3R.
3rd row: Knit 3R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, rep from * to lastitch 3 stitches, 3R.
4th row: Purl 4R, * 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, 2W, 4R.
5th to 8th row: Work in R.
9th row:  * Knit 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2W.
10th row: Purl 3W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W.
11th row: Knit 3W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W.
12th row: * Purl 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2W.
13th to 16th row: Work in R.

Repeat these 16 rows 4 times more, then first 14 rows again.

Next row(continue in red): K1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, rep from * to end [68 sts]
Change to 3¼ mm needles. Knit 4 rows. Cast off.

Spot Dress Sleeves (both alike)

With 3¼ mm needles and R, cast on 22 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Join in white (W). Change to 3¾ mm needles.
Next row: With W, knit twice into every stitch [44 sts]
Beginning with purl row, work 3 rows stocking stitch.

Now start pattern rows:-

1st row: Knit 1W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
2nd row: Purl 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to end
3rd row: Knit 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to end
4th row: Purl 1W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
5th to 8th row: Work in white in stocking stitch.
9th row: Knit 5W, * 2R, 6W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2A, 5B
10th row: Purl 4W,, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to end
11th row: Knit 4W,, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to end
12th row: Purl 5W, * 2R, 6W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2A, 5B
13th to 16th row: Work in white in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 16 rows of pattern once more. Break off red and continue in white only.
Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave remaining 34 stitches on a spare needle.

Spot Dress Bodice

With 3¾ mm needles and W, cast on 82 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Join in R and continue in stocking stitch, with garter stitch border, thus:

5th row: Knit 2W, yfd, k2togW, 4W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to lastitch 8 stitches, 8W.
6th row:-Knit 5W, then purl 2W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, purl 2W, knit 5W.
7th row: Knit 7W, 4R, * 4W, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, knit 7W.
8th row: K5W, then purl 3W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, purl 3W, knit 5W
9th to 12th row: - With white, work in stocking stitch.
13th row: Knit 2W, yfd, k2togW, 1W, 1R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 6W, 1R, 5W.
14th row: Knit 5W, then purl 2R, 4W * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, purl 2R, knit 5W
15th row: Knit 5W, 2R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2R, 5W
16th row:-Knit 5 B, then purl 1R, 6W, 2R, 3W, with W cast off next 10 stitches, weaving R loosely across stitches; then with 1 white stitch on needle after casting off, purl 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * twice more, purl 1W, cast off 10 sts as before, purl 3W including stitch on needle, 2R, 6W, 1R, knit 5W. Break off red.
Leave stitches on spare needle.

Spot Dress Yoke (all in white)

With right side of bodice facing, using 3¾ mm needles and using white yarn, knit 17 stitches from first side of back, (k2tog) 17 times across top of sleeve, k28 across front of bodice, (k2tog) 17 times across top of second sleeve, k17 across second side of back [96 sts]

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
2nd row: Knit
3rd and every alternate row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
4th row: K2, yfd, k2tog, k7, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, * k10, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k11 [84 sts]
6th row: Knit
8th row: K10, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k10
10th row: K9, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k6; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k9
12th row: K8, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8 [48 sts]
13th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Break off white and work last rows in red.
14th row: In red (R) k2, yfd, k2tog, knit to end.
Knit 4 rows.
Cast off.

Second Doll Dress (with stripe pattern)

With 3¾ mm Twin Pin (circular needle) and lilac (L), cast on 202 stitches. Knit 5 rows.

Beginning with a purl row, work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Continue in stocking stitch, joining in colours as required:

1st and 2nd rows: work in white (W)
3rd and 4th rows: work in claret (C)
5th and 6th rows: work in white (W)
7th row: Knit 3W, * 2R, 2W, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3R
8th row: Purl 3R, * 2W, 2R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W
8th row: Knit 3R, * 2W, 2R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W
7th row: Purl 3W, * 2R, 2W, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3R
11th to 16th row: As 1st to 6th rows.
17th to 20th rows: work in lilac (L)
21st and 22nd rows: work in claret (C)
23rd to 26th rows: work in lilac (L)

Rep these 26 rows twice more, then rep the 1st to 16th rows again.

Continue with lilac (L) only, breaking off other colours.

Next row(continue in lilac): K1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, rep from * to end [68 sts]
Change to 3¼ mm needles. Knit 4 rows. Cast off.

Stripe Dress Sleeves (both alike)

With 3¼ mm needles and lilac (L), cast on 23 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Change to 3¾ mm needles.
Next row: With W, knit twice into every stitch [46 sts]
Purl one row.

Work 1st to 16th rows of skirt pattern; decrease one stitch at each end of the last row [44 sts].

Break off colours, and continue working in lilac (L) only.
Work 20 rows stocking stitch.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 34 sts on a spare needle.

Stripe Dress Bodice

With 3¾ mm needles and lilac (L), cast on 82 stitches. Knit 4 rows.

Continue using lilac only and work exactly as you did for the first dress, keeping the garter stitch border correct.

Leave stitches on spare needle.

Stripe Dress Yoke (all in lilac)

With right side of bodice facing, using 3¾ mm needles and using lilac yarn, knit 17 stitches from first side of back, (k2tog) 17 times across top of sleeve, k28 across front of bodice, (k2tog) 17 times across top of second sleeve, k17 across second side of back [96 sts]

Work the first 7 rows as for the first dress:

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
2nd row: Knit
3rd and every alternate row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
4th row: K2, yfd, k2tog, k7, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, * k10, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k11 [84 sts]
5th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
6th row: Knit
7th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Join in white:
8th row (in white): K10, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k10
9th row (in white): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
Join in claret:
10th row (in claret): K9, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k6; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k9
11th row (in claret): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
Break off claret and continue in white for 2 rows:
12th row (in white): K8, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8 [48 sts]
13th row (in white): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Break off white and work last rows in lilac only:
14th row: In red (R) k2, yfd, k2tog, knit to end.

K 4 rows. Cast off.

Making Up the Dresses

Join sleeves of spot dress up to cast-off edges.
Join cast-off edges to cast-off edges on bodice.
Finish off ends.
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes.
Join bottom of bodice to waist of doll.

Make top of stripe dress the same and join at waist, meeting other top.

Join back seams of skirts.
Put both skirts on to doll and join to tops at waistline.

Starting at back seam, with crochet hook and white, work * 1 dc through bottom edges of dresses, working through both skirts at once, miss 1 stitch, 3 tr into next st. miss 1 st, rep from * to end.

Fasten off.

Materials

Robin Reward Double Knitting:
Dolls: 3 x 50g brown, 2 x 50g cream, 1 x 50g black and small amounts of blue and white for eyes and red for mouths.
Dresses: 3 x 50g in each of white and red, 2 x 50g in lilac, and 1 x 50g in claret.

8 small buttons.


One pair each 3¼mm and 3¾ mm
knitting needles.

3¾ mm Twin-Pin, 60 cm, (24 inches), long.

Medium crochet hook.

Stuffing.

Tension

22 sts x 28 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches), measured over stocking stitch, using 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

About 54 cm,
(21 inches), high.

Abbreviations

m1:- make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.
yfd: yarn forward; bring the yarn to the front of the work and pass it over the needle when knitting the next stitch; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

Find instructions for crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

Robin Reward was a nylon budget double knitting.

You can buy a Robin double knitting today, 100% acrylic in 100g balls at very low cost. Its wide colour range, robust qualities, and reasonable price could make it very suitable for hard working toys.
Robin Premium Acrylic is also available in 25g balls which is useful for making toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


My porcelain version of a topsy turvy doll.

TopsyTurvy3.jpg

July 2014

Sun Jersey or Sun Top

SunJersey3a.jpg

By the sea in 1950 - a quick (ish) knit in fine yarn.
"This intriguing affair is knitted short for a sun top or as long as you like for a jumper.
For evening wear decorate the lattice ribs of the sun-ray yoke with sequins or beads.
"

Instructions.

These instructions are for a sun top - which is essentially a cropped top ending at the waist, and a "jersey" version which is slightly longer. In both versions the front and back are knitted separately in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl) and then joined to form a patterned yoke with intergral cap sleeve.

Sun Jersey Front

With No 11 needles cast on 112 stitches and work 16 rows in stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping waist as follows:-
Next row: k2tog, k26, (k2tog) twice, k48, (k2tog) twice, k26, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k24, (k2tog) twice, k46, (k2tog) twice, k24, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k22, (k2tog) twice, k44, (k2tog) twice, k22, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row.
Next row: k2tog, k20, (k2tog) twice, k42, (k2tog) twice, k20, k2tog.
Work 7 rows straight, starting with a purl row. [88 sts]
Purl one row.

Change to No 13 needles and work 1½ inches straight, ending with a purl row.

Change back to No 11 needles.

Next row: increase in 1st stitch, k27, increase in each of next 2 sts, k28, increase in each of next 2 sts, k27, increase in last stitch. [94 sts]
Purl one row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 114 stitches.
Purl one row.

** With right side facing, divide for yoke as follows:-

Next row: k53; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 53 sts, working 3 more increasings at the side edge on every 6th row as before; then, keeping this edge straight, at the same time start to shape the yoke by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 7 purl rows, then 2 at beginning of following 4 purl rows.
[20 sts]

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row; then k2tog at this edge on next 6 knit rows, while at the same time continuing to shape the neck by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 purl rows and then p2tog at the beginning of the following 4 purl rows.

Fasten off.

Return to remaining stitches and slip centre 8 sts on a spare needle or safety pin.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 53 sts and work to correspond with first shoulder, reversing all shapings.

Sun Jersey Back

Work exactly as for front until there are 114 sts, then continue in stocking stitch, increasing at side edges on every 6th row as before until there are 118 sts.
Purl one row.

** With right side facing, divide for yoke as follows:-

Next row: k55; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 55 sts, working 1 more increase at side edge as before, then keep this edge straight, and at the same time shape yoke by casting off 4 sts. at beginning of next 5 purl rows. [36 sts]

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next row; then k2tog at this edge on next 7 knit rows, while at the same time continuing to shape the neck by casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 10 purl rows.

Fasten off.

Return to remaining stitches and slip centre 8 sts on a spare needle or safety pin.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 55 sts and work to correspond with first back shoulder, reversing all shapings.

Yoke

Back: With No 11 needles, cast on 32 sts, then with right side facing, on to this needle, pick up and knit 40 sts down right side of back, k8 from spare needle, pick up and knit 41 sts up left back.
Turn. (wrong side now facing)
Cast on 32 sts.
Next row: Purl across 153 stitches.

Now work in pattern thus:-

1st row (right side facing): k3; * wfd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k6; repeat from * ending last repeat k3 instead of k6.
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Knit.
4th row: Purl.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Work 6 more rows.

Next row (decrease row on 3rd pattern row): k8, k2tog, * k7, k2tog; repeat from * to last 8 sts, k8. [137 sts]

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch in centre of each stocking stitch panel as laid out above on every following 8th row until 2 sts remain in each panel.
At the same time decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 15th and following 16th row, then keep shoulder edges straight [85 sts].

[Editor's note: This is one of those things that is easier to do with the knitting in front of you than to explain. Each decrease row reduces the number of sts by 16. So on the 7th row following your 4 initial pattern rows, you do your first set of decreases as above [137 sts]; your next decreases are on the 15th row where you also decrease one stitch at each end of the row as well as in the panels so this decreases 18 sts in the row [119 sts]; on the next 8th row you decrease 16 sts in the panels only [103 sts]; and finally on the next 8th row you decrease in the panels as well as each end - 18 sts [85 sts remain]. Note that you have to place your decreases in the stocking stitch panels by centering them by eye rather than counting.]

Now work straight until the yoke is 4 inches deep.
Change to No 13 needles and work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Castoff.

Front: With No. 11 needles, cast on 32 sts, then with right side facing, pick up and knit 54 sts. down left front, k8 from spare needle, pick up and knit 54 sts up right front.
Turn. (wrong side now facing)
Cast on 32 sts.
Next row: Purl across 180 stitches.

Finish exactly as for the back, but you will have 100 sts on needle at end of the decrease rows instead of 85.

[Editor's note: So - same sequence as on the back but this time each decrease row reduces the number of sts by 19. So on the 7th row following your 4 initial pattern rows, you do your first set of decreases using the same layout for the decrease row as given for the back [161 sts]; your next decreases are on the 15th row where you also decrease one stitch at each end of the row as well as in the panels so this decreases 21sts in the row [140 sts]; on the next 8th row you decrease 19 sts in the panels only [121 sts]; and finally on the next 8th row you decrease in the panels as well as each end - 21 sts - and voilà - 100 sts remain.]

Cropped Sun Top Front

With No 13 needles, cast on 102 sts and work 2½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and increase at each end of the 1st and every following 6th row until there are 114 sts.
Purl one row.

Now work as for Sun Jersey front from ** to end.

Cropped Sun Top Back

Work exactly as for front until there are 114 sts then continue in stocking stitch, increasing at side edges on every 6th row as before until there are 118 sts.
Purl one row.

Now work exactly as for the back of Sun Jersey from ** to end.

Cropped Sun Top Yoke

Work exactly as given for the Sun Jersey.

Making Up

Press pieces on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and shoulder seams.

Work a row of double crochet all round armholes and lower edge of the Jersey.
Thread shirring elastic through the ribbing of the Sun Top, and work double crochet round armholes.

Press seams.

Materials

6 ozs Patons Beehive Bouclet for sun jersey; 4 ozs for sun-top.

[Editor's note: When substituting with modern fibres you may need more than stated unless your chosen yarn has a particularly good yardage.]

One pair each
No 13 (2¼mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.
One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Shirring elastic for the sun top.

Tension

30sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

To fit 32-34 inch chest; length from top of shoulders, on jumper 19½ inches; on sun-top 13 inches.

Abbreviations

wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.
sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

The tension for this yarn implies it knits approximately as a 4 ply. Susan Crawford's Excelana 4 ply or Excelite 3ply yarn might work well here - or a fine cotton. Do check your tension with a swatch.

Using a slightly thicker yarn (I emphasis slightly) or a larger needle size might work well to increase the size range while still keeping the pattern in proportion. As usual do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this. An apparent slight move in tension from 30 sts to 28 sts for 4 inches potentially increases the chest size from 32-34 inches as stated in the pattern up to 36½ inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

SunJersey2.jpg

June 2014

Snappy swim-suit

SnappySwimSuit.jpg

What every girl wants: sun.... sand.... and an oversized beach ball.
Continuing the red and white summer theme - the latest in swimwear for the 1930s.
[O - and did I mention? - it's very practical and fits marvellously, (provided you have a 33-34 inch bust), and we can all breathe easily as it has a REGULATION skirt].

"You couldn't find a swim-suit with more snap about it than this one! And it takes all the prizes on the practical side, too . . . . is simple to knit, fits marvellously and has the forethought to choose a stitch that doesn't stretch out of shape (bramble pattern, shown in detail on page 32, broken with bars of rib through which the belt is slotted). The suit is low at the back, and in front the shoulder straps slot through the amusing little striped revers to tie at the base of the neckline; it has, of course, the regulation skirt with brief, almost legless, trunks beneath."

Instructions.

These instructions are given in one size only for a sun-suit with skirt and integrated knickers.

Front

Start with the front of the KNICKERS.

With red wool, cast on 32 stitches. Work in stocking stitch, always knitting into backs of cast-on stitches. After the first row, cast on 3 stitches at the end of every row until there are 116 on the needle.
[Editor's note: I always love these vintage patterns that get straight into 3 figures in the opening paragraph.]

Continue on these for 4 inches, ending with a knit row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row till 104 stitches remain.
Continue on these until the side seam edge measures 9 inches, ending with a purl row. Leave these stitches on spare needle..

Now start at lower edge of SKIRT.

With red wool, cast on 104 stitches. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib, then work in pattern as follows:-

1st row (right side facing): (k1, p1) 3 times; p20, (k1, p1) 4 times; p36, (k1, p1) 4 times, p20, (k1, p1) 3 times.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 3 times;
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 5 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 9 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 5 times, (k1, p1) 3 times.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: (k1, p1) 3 times;
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, (k1, p1) 3 times.

These four rows form pattern.

Repeat until work measures 13 inches from lower edge, ending with the 4th row of pattern.

Now place needle containing the knicker stitches right side towards you, behind needle containing skirt stitches, and knit in pattern, as first row, knitting together 1 stitch from each needle.
Complete this pattern, then work 4 more patterns.
[Editor's note: This means continue with 19 pattern rows ending on a 4th row..]

Keeping the continuity of pattern, shape for waist by decreasing 1 stitch at each end, in side ribbing, in every 4th row, until 2 stitches remain in rib at edges (4 stitches decreased each side).

Work 4 more rows in pattern, then make belt slots as follows:-

Next row: k1, p1, p20. Turn.
Work in pattern on these 22 stitches for 8 rows, then leave on spare needle.
Join in wool and work in k1, p1, rib on the next 8 stitches for 9 rows. Put these stitches on the spare needle, (next to the 22 sts from before).
Work in pattern on the next 36 stitches for 9 rows. Put these stitches on the spare needle.
Work in k1, p1, rib on the next 8 stitches for 9 rows. Put on the spare needle.
Work in pattern on the remaining 22 stitches for 9 rows.
Work the next row in the pattern, working all the stitches on to one needle again.

Continue in pattern, increasing 1stitch at each end in the 2nd and every following 4th row until there are 104 stitches.**
Work in pattern on these for 3 inches, ending with 4th row of pattern.
Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, p1) 5 times, p16, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p16, rib 10.
2nd row: rib 10, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 4 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 4 times, rib 10.
3rd row: rib 14, p12, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p12, rib 14.
4th row: Rib 14, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 3 times, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 3 times, rib 14.
5th row: rib 18, p8, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p8, rib 18.
6th row: rib 18, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) twice, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) twice, rib 18.
7th row: rib 22, p4, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p4, rib 22.
8th row: rib 22, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 8, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 22.
9th row: rib 34, p36, rib 34.
10th row: rib 34, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 34.
11th row: rib 34, p36, rib 34.
12th row: rib 34, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 34.
13th row: rib 38, p28, rib 38.
14th row: rib 38, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 7 times, rib 38.
15th row: rib 42, p20, rib 42.
16th row: rib 42, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, rib 42.
17th row: rib 46, p12, rib 46.
18th row: rib 46, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 3 times, rib 46.
19th row: rib 50, p4, rib 50.
20th row: rib 50, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 50.

Now continue to work all across in rib, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 92 stitches remain.

Next row: k2tog, rib 44. Turn, and work on these stitches, leaving remaining 46 stitches on a spare needle.

Next row: k2tog, rib to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: k2tog, rib to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Rejoin in wool at centre and work the other side to match.

Back

Work exactly as for front to end of waist shaping,
[Editor's note: I have to say I am not clear exactly where this is but I assume it to be after the increases back to 104 stitches which seems to be the number of stitches worked on thereafter in shaping the low back. I have marked this position **.]
then work 4 inches in pattern.

Work right across in rib for 4 rows.

Now begin to shape low back.
Next row: rib 20, cast off 64 (tightly) rib 20.
[Editor's note: You now work the 20 stitches on each side of the cast-off separately.]

Next row: Rib to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: k2tog, rib to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until all stitches are cast off.
Join in wool at centre and work other side to match.

Revers

These are worked in stripes of 2rows red, 2 rows white.
Do not break off wool between stripes.

Start with LEFT REVER.

With red wool, cast on 26 stitches.

1st and 2nd rows: Knit (in red).
3rd row: Join in white wool, knit.
4th row: k2tog, knit to end.
5th row: pick up red, knit to end.
6th row: k2tog, knit to end.
7th row: pick up white, k2, cast off 8, knit to end.
8th row: k2tog, k12, cast on 8, k. 2.

9th row: pick up red, knit to end.
10th row: k2tog, knit to end.
11th row
: pick up white, knit to end.
12th row: k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat last 4 rows until 2 stitches remain.
Cast off.

For RIGHT REVER, work as follows:-

With red wool cast on 26 stitches.

1st and 2nd rows: Knit (in red).
3rd row: Join in white wool, knit.
4th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
5th row: pick up red, knit to end.
6th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
7th row: pick up white, knit to last 10 sts, cast off 8, k2.
8th row: k2, cast on 8, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

9th row: pick up red, knit to end.
10th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
11th row
: pick up white, knit to end.
12th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat last 4 rows until 2 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Belt

With white wool cast on 2 stitches. Work in k1, p1, rib, casting on 2 stitches at the end of every alternate row until there are 14 stitches on the needle. Work in rib on these stitches for 45 inches.
Shape end by casting off 2 stitches at beginning of every alternate row.

Shoulder straps (make 2)

With white wool cast on 2 stitches.
Work in k1, p1, rib, casting on 2 stitches at the end of every alternate row until there are 12 stitches on the needle. Continue on these stitches for 24 inches.
Cast off.
Make second piece to match.

To Make Up

Press all pieces well with damp cloth and hot iron.

Sew up side seams and knicker seams.
Work a row of double crochet round leg openings.

Place lower edge of slot in front trimming to top of the 10 cast off stitches at top of front. Sew along lower edge of this slot, then sew straight edge of trimming along edge of the V of front opening. Shaped edge of trimming is not fastened down.

Sew unshaped end of shoulder straps to back, draw through slot at front to required length, then stitch to the top of the slot and knot at bottom of V opening.

Draw belt through slots at waist and tie in bow, at back or front, as preferred.

Materials

13 ozs of "Diana" non-shrink 4ply [pictured costume uses 11ozs of Cavalcade red and 2 ozs white].
[Editor's note: When substituting with modern fibres you may need more than the quantities stated.
1 oz = 28 grams]

One pair No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

To fit 32-33 inch chest.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

p3tog: purl 3 sts together (decrease 2 stitches).

(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch): increases 2 stitches.

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

The Diana yarn is stated as a 4 ply with a tension consistent with that on a 3mm needle. [Not to be confused with Patons Diana brushed DK sold in the 1980s]

Internet search states a yardage of 209 but no ball weight given. 209 yards for a 1 oz ball would be quite high.

If you make this with a substitute yarn, perhaps a cotton would be nicest though cotton does tend to stretch, despite the reassurance that bramble stitch "doesn't stretch out of shape".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Close-up of bramble stitch and rib.

StitchDetail.jpg

May 2014

Pin-striped jumper

PinStripedJumper.jpg

"Cherry and white pin-stripes are used both up and down and across here. Wear this woolly as above, jumper fashion, or over a blouse."

I much admired this jumper some time ago but never got round to making it myself. However, here it is if you want to try it out. I think it would look nice in red and white as intended or with beige like This Attractive Affair **, knitted in Rowan's Cotton Glacé - but do read all the information about substituting the yarn before you decide how best to tackle this pattern!
In 2008 I made the Engaging Bouclé Top (also from the same 1935 feature). It worked out very well and I wear it quite often even now.

** This Attractive Affair is a 1930s pattern from A Stitch In Time Volume 2 by Susan Crawford and Jane Waller. You can purchase it at Susan's website or from Amazon.

Instructions.

The top and the lower part of the jumper are worked separately, and the ribbed welt added last of all. The pattern is twisted garter stitch, 2 rows red and 2 rows white, alternately.

For twisted garter stitch: knit every row plain, but work always into the backs of the stitches.

Back

Start with lower section, worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 10 stitches. Work as follows in the twisted garter stitch pattern explained above:

1st row: red.
2nd row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [20 sts]
3rd row: Change to white (do not break red wool) work to end.
4th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [30 sts]
5th row: red.
6th row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [40 sts]
7th row: white.
8th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [50 sts]
9th row: red.
10th row: red, cast on 14, work to end. [64 sts]

[Editor's note: This gradual addition of stitches makes waist shaping.]

Now continue in pattern on the 64 stitches on the needle till you have worked 41 red stripes at the casting-on end (the casting on at the beginning of 10th row will be the first of these stripes).

At the beginning of the second row of next red stripe, cast off 14, work to end. [50 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [40 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [30 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [20 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [10 sts]

Cast off remaining 10 stitches in red.

Next work Back Yoke. Hold right side of work towards you.
Using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 114 stitches along the top (wider) edge of lower back, starting at the 7th stripe, and finishing at the 7th stripe from the opposite end.
Working the first row in red, continue in pattern as before, working two rows white, then two rows red, knitting 2 together at each end of the first 8 rows, to shape the armholes.

Continue in pattern on the 98 stitches that remain till 55 red stripes have been completed.

Next row: white.
Next row: white, k32, cast off 3, k32.

Continue in pattern on on the latter 32 stitches for first shoulder.
Then with right side facing, cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row (that is: at the armhole edge) 3 times; cast off 8.

Join in red wool to the remaining 32 stitches at the neck-edge and work the other shoulder to correspond, beginning the casting off with the wrong side of the work facing.

Left front

As you did on the back, start with the lower section, which is worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 64 stitches (centre front edge). Work 2 rows red, 2 rows white, until you have completed the 23rd red stripe.
Cast off 14 at the waist end, work to end and back; cast off 10 at the beginning of the next and every alternate row 4 times; cast off 10.

[Editor's note: This gradual reduction of stitches makes waist shaping.]

For the yoke: with right side of work facing and using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 64 stitches along the top (wider) edge, starting at the 7th stripe.
Work back one row in red, then continuing the stripe sequence, two white, two red as before, k2tog at armhole edge in first 8 rows, then keep both edges straight till 4th white stripe from where stitches were knitted up has been completed.
K2tog at the neck edge in the next and every alternate row till 32 stitches remain.
Cast off 8 stitches from armhole edge 3 times, cast off 8.

Right front

Cast on and work lower section as for left front, but start the casting off at the beginning of the 2nd row in the 23rd red stripe, this bringing the shaping to opposite end of needle.

For the yoke: with the right side of work facing and using No 10 needles and red wool, knit up 64 stitches, finishing at the 7th stripe from under-arm edge. Work the yoke to correspond with left yoke, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and red wool, cast on 90 stitches.
Work in the pattern, straight, to the end of the 14th white stripe, then shape top by decreasing at each end of every row till 30 stitches remain; cast off.

White borders

For back waist ribbing:
Using No 13 needles and white wool, with right side facing, knit up 124 stitches across lower edge, and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib; cast off.

For each of the front waist ribbing:
Knit up 70 stitches across lower edge and rib to match the back.

For each cuff:
Using white wool and No 10 needles, cast on 16 stitches and work in twisted garter-stitch, all in white, until the cuff fits the edge of the sleeve.

The ribbed front border is worked all in one.
Using white wool and No 13 needles, cast on 18 stitches.
Work 8 rows in k1, p1 rib.

In the 9th row, start a buttonhole by working 6, casting off 6, working 6; in the next row finish it by casting on 6 to replace those cast off.

* Rib 16 rows, then make another buttonhole.
Repeat from * 6 times (8 buttonholes in all), then work straight until the border will reach round the neck and to the lower edge.

Making Up

Join side seams and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join each cuff into a ring, stitch round edge of sleeve and turn back.
Sew border neatly all round, overlapping edge of coat by about one stitch.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

Beehive Scotch Fingering 2 ply: 2 ozs in red, 3 ozs in white.

One pair each
No 13 (2¼mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

8 small square red buttons.

Tension

30sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 33 inches; length from top of shoulder: 18 inches; sleeve seam: 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

References on the web give Patons Beehive 2 ply Scotch Fingering a tension of 9 sts to the inch on 2mm needles and a yardage of 230 without a stated ball weight. This would equate more to a 3 ply weight yarn - but Patons did make this yarn in 2, 3 and 4 ply weights, so it is hard to make a judgement.

No clues much from the pattern either since the needle size used is larger than normal for this yarn and the stitches are twisted, making it tighter, and to cap it all - it's knitted sideways. The tension is stated without reference as to whether this is over stocking stitch or over the pattern.

I would substitute with a 3 or 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could instantly move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PinStripedJumper2.jpg

April 2014

Bunny suits

BunnySuits.jpg

Cute little sweaters with rabbit motifs. Also supplies a pattern for a skirt and little shorts.

"Small girls and boys will love these Bunny Rabbit sets. Hers has a cute flared skirt, and his, neat little trousers. We knitted them in vivid red and white for tough wear."

Instructions.

Instructions for one size given for jumper, cardigan, shorts, and skirt.

Jumper

Front

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 86 stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

[Editor's note: I used to work twisted rib a little differently to the one described here. I would knit into the back of the knit stitches on right side rows, and purl into the back of the purl stitches on wrong side rows. This leads to very rigidly defined columns of knit stitches on the right side. It looks very attractive but it is less elastic than normal ribbing. ]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) and, joining in contrast white (W), work the two clour pattern rows 1-4 as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.
**

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 4 rows stocking-stitch in R, starting with a knit row.
Before working the rabbit motifs, wind wool on to bobbins - 2 bobbins with W and 1 bobbin R. Join in a separate bobbin W for each rabbit and 1 R bobbin between.
Note: Twist wools on wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

[Editor's note: You might need a second bobbin of red here - if you read later on they suggest you work with 3 bobbins as above and two balls of red - it depends which you find easier..]

Continue in stocking-stitch working from chart over the centre 44 stitches, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.
Your first 2 rows will read :

1st row (right side facing): Knit 21 R.; work centre 44 stitches from chart thus: 4 R, join in W bobbin, 10 W, join in R bobbin, 16 R, join in 2nd bobbin W, 10W., join in a second ball R, 4 R; then knit remaining 21 R.
2nd row: Purl, 21 R; from chart 1R, 13W, 16R, 13W, 1R.; purl remaining 21R.
Continue in this way until 20th row of chart has been worked.
Break W.

With right side facing, continue in R over all stitches and work 4 rows stocking-stitch.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W and work the two-colour pattern rows 1-4 as before. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking-stitch in R, until front measures 8½ inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 11½ inches.

With right side facing, shape neck:

Next row: Knit 26; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 16 stitches remain. Work a few rows straight until front measures 13 ins.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the begining of the next row, then 5 stitches at the begining of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, slip the centre 14 stitches on to a spare needle.
Rejoin wool to remaining 26 stitches and finish to correspond with the first side.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 28 rows stocking-stitch in R, then change to No 0 (3¾mm) needles, and work two-colour rows 1-4 inclusive again. BreakW.
Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue straight in stocking-stitch in R until back matches front at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armholes as for front. [66 stitches]Work 2 rows straight.

With right side facing, divide for back opening.

Next row: Knit 33, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 33 stitches until back matches front at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Leave remaining 17 stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 44 stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W, and work two-colour pattern rows 1-4 inclusive again. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking- stitch in R, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 60 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 9 ins.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck border

Join shoulder seams.
Using the set of No 11 (3mm) needles - or a circular needle - to facilitate working and main wool (R) wool, start at left side of back opening and with right side facing, k17 from spare needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches down left side of front, k14 from spare needle at centre, pick up and k15 stitches up right side, k17 from spare needle. [78 sts].

Working backwards and forwards (not in the round), continue as follows:

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and two-colour pattern.

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 7 rows stocking stitch in R, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Fold neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Buttonhole Band
With No 11 (3mm) needles, R wool, and right side facing, pick up and knit 30 stitches down right side of back opening.
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: * k2, wool forward, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit.
Cast off loosely.
Work.a row of double crochet in R down left side of opening.
Catch down border neatly to main work at start of opening.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
With black wool embroider eye and nose of each rabbit as illustrated.
Press all seams and neck border lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Trousers

Right Half

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R), cast on 82 stitches loosely and work 12 rows stocking-stitch, starting with knit row.

Make a hem on the next row by folding the work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Next row: Purl.

With right side facing, shape back as follows using short row shaping:

Next 2 rows: K10, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K20, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K30, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K40, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K50, turn and purl back,
Next 2 rows: K60, turn and purl back.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and continue in stocking-stitch over all stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until there are 94 stitches.

Work straight until front seam (short edge) measures 8 ins.

With right side facing, shape leg by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 9 rows stocking-stitch. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Left Half

Work as for right half, reversing back shaping, i.e. having wrong instead of right side facing. Your first two rows will read :-
Purl 10, turn and knit back.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join back, front and leg seams, leaving waist hem open on back for elastic.
Turn back last 7 rows round each leg to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position.
Press all seams and hems lightly.
Thread elastic through waist and sew up opening neatly.

Skirt

Back and front alike

With No 11 (3mm) needles and R wool, cast on 154 stitches loosely, and work 6 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next 2 rows: Purl.
The last 2 rows form ridge for hemline.

Change to No 10 (3¼) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Make a hem on next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 st. from cast-on edge all along.

Next row: Purl, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [155 sts]

With right side facing, shape as follows:

Next row (1st decrease row): K14, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k28) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k14. [145 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Next row (2nd decrease row): K13, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k26) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k13. [135 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 10 stitches thus on next and every following 12th row until 6th decrease row has been worked, and 95 stitches remain.
Work 11 rows straight.

Now shape skirt by decreasing 10 stitches as before but on on next and following 6th row [75 sts].
Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 9½ inches down centre.
Next row (wrong side facing): P2tog, purl to end. [74 sts]

Change to k1/p1 rib and work 1 inch, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing at waistband.
Join side seams. Cut elastic to fit waist and join. Then sew in position inside waist ribbing using herring bone stitch for casing.
Press seams.

Materials

8ozs 4ply in Lipstick Red and 1oz in Snow White for either set.

Pair each No 11 (3mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Set of 4 each No 11 (3mm),and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

5 buttons

Length of ½-inch wide elastic to fit waist.

Small amount of black wool to embroider eyes and nose on motifs.

Bobbins for two-colour pattern. (For example EZ Bobs or make your own - instructions below)

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¼mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.
Jumper: To fit 23- 24 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 13 inches; sleeve seam 9 inches.
Shorts
: width round widest part, 27 inches; length of front seam 8 inches.
Skirt
: length, 10% inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Bunny Motif Chart


To Make a Bobbin

Cut shape from stiff cardboard as in the diagram above, 2.5 inches deep and 2.6 inches wide. Cut out the hole and cut a slit in the top. Wind the wool on to the bobbin as shown in the diagram on the right, and pass through the slit as many times as required.

March 2014

Poncho Cape Sweater

BobbleCape1.jpg

Maybe sad to say, I am very smitten with the idea of this "Poncho Sweater" from the seventies. Picturing on location with a bicycle clinches it. It's knitted in a chunky pure wool from the era of back to nature fibres (after the decade with all that courtelle crepe).

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

Commence at top.
With 6½mm needles cast on 167 (171) sts.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K3, purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

7th row: K8 (10), MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 8(10) sts; knit to end.
8th row: As 2nd row.
9th - 12th rows: Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows twice.

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Work 12 more rows and then conunence side shaping.

1st row: K2tog tbl; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Continue to dec in this way at each of every 4th row until 151 (155) sts remain, and then every alternate row until 119 (123) sts remain.

Next row: K2tog tbl, k2, purl to the last 4 sts, k2, k2tog.
Next row: As 1st row.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 79 (83) sts remain, ending with a right side row.

Next row: P2 (4), P2tog, * p6, p2tog, repeat from * to the last 3 (5) sts, purl to end. [69 (73) sts].

Change to 5½mm needles.
1st row:. K2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to the last st, k1.
2nd row: * K1, p1, repeat from * to the last st, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows for 11 cm (4¼ inches).
Cast off in rib.

Front - Left side

With 6½mm needles cast on 70 (72) sts.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K3, purl to end.
3rd row: Increase in first stitch, knit to end.
4th row: K3, purl to the last stitch, increase in last stitch.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows once more.
7th row: Increase in first stitch, k4, MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 8(10) sts; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as set.
Increase 1st at the neck edge on the next 4 rows.
Work 13 rows without shaping.

Commence side shaping.
1st row: Knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Continue to decrease in this way at the end of every 4th row, until 74 (76) sts remain.
Work 1 row. Break yarn and leave sts on spare needle.

Front - Right side

With 6½mm needles cast on 70 (72) sts.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: Purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
3rd row: Knit to the last stitch, increase in the last stitch.
4th row: Increase in first stitch, purl to the last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows once more.
7th row: K8 (10), MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to
the last 5 sts; k4 increase in the last stitch.
Continue in pattern as set.
Increase 1st at the neck edge on the next 4 rows.
Work 13 rows without shaping.

Commence side shaping.
1st row: K2tog tbl; knit to end.
Continue to decrease in this way at the beginning of every 4th row, until 74 (76) sts remain.
Work 1 row.

Next row: Work to end of right side.
Cast on 9 sts for front opening.
Now work across stitches of left side. [157 (161) sts].

Complete exactly as for back.

Hood

With 5½ mm needles cast on 163 stitches.
Work 11 rows in garter-stitch (every row knit).

Next row: Cast off 28 stitches; knit to the last 28 stitches; cast off these stitches.
Break yarn.

Turn and rejoin yarn to remaining 107 stitches.
Change to 6½mm needles.
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.

Next row: K8, MB, * k9, MB, repeat from * to the last 8 stitches; k8.
Continue in pattern as set. Work 22 more rows.

Next row: P38 stitches, cast off 31 stitches, purl to end.
Continue on the last set of stitches and work 10 rows.

Shape back.
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then the 4 following alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the 8 remaining stitches.
Rejoin yam to remaining stitches.
Work 11 rows.
Shape back to match first side.

To Make Up

Press each piece lightly with a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join top seams.
Join side edges of welt ribbing.
Join back seam on hood
Place this seam in the centre of the cast off stitches, and sew crown seam.
Sew hood to neck edge, and borders to front opening edges.
Join edges of borders together for 2 cm ( inch) from start of front opening.
Press all seams lightly.

Ties - make 2

Using 2 strands of yarn 66cm (26 inches) long, make a twisted cord and knot the end. Thread the folded end of he cord through the edge of the knitting at the neck, open up the cord, thread knotted end through cord and draw up.

Materials

24 (25) 50g Chunky yarn.

A pair each of Nos
5 (5½mm) and 3 (6½mm) needles.

Tension

15 sts and 20 rows to 4 inches over the pattern using 6½ mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 34-36 (36-38) inches; length from top of shoulders 26 inches.

Abbreviations

MB: Make bobble as follows: (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) into next stitch, turn; k5, turn; p5, turn; k2tog, k1, k2tog, turn; p3tog, completing bobble.

tog: together.

tbl: through back loops.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2014

Cross Season Jumper

CrossSeason1.jpg CrossSeason2.jpg

I thought this looked like highly wearable jumper with a very flattering neckline. From the picture it looks like it has bracelet length sleeves - which I very much favour - but the instructions imply they are full length; I like the look of the pushed-up sleeves in the photo so much that I think I would knit them shorter. There is shaping through the body but this could be omitted - you would need to cast on 106 (112) instead of 94 (100) and knit straight to the armhole.

The pattern suggests using a violet colour but I envisioned it in chartreuse.

Instructions.

Instructions for large size given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes.

Back

‡‡

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 94 (100) stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k10, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, k10.

2nd row: p10, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, p10.

3rd row: p10, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2K, p10.

4th row: k10, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 12 stitches, cross2P, k10.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

CrossSeason3.jpg

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 4 inches.
With right side facing, shape sides by increasing 1 st at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 106 (112) stitches.
Work straight until back measures 14½ (15) inches.

‡‡

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5(5) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate rows until 86 (90) stitches remain.
Work straight until back measure 22½ (23) inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of next 4 rows, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 32 (34) stitches.

Front

Work as back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

With right side facing, shape armholes and divide for neck as follows:

Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern 47 (50).
Turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: cast on 2, pattern to end, taking the 2 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [49 (52) sts]

Continue shaping armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on next and following 4 (5) alternate rows. [44 (46) sts]

Work a few rows straight until front opening measures 2 inches.

With wrong side facing, cast on 10 sts for collar, pattern to end, taking the 10 cast-on stitches into the ridge pattern. [54 (56) sts]

Work straight until outside edge of collar measures 2 inches from the 10 cast-on stitches.
With wrong side facing, cast on a further 5 sts, pattern to end.

Continue straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 (9) sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, then 9 (10) sts at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Continue straight on the remaining 32 (33) stitches for 2½ inches.
Cast off.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 54 (57) sts, pattern to end.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5) stitches, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 st at armhole edge on following 5 (6) alernate rows. [44 (46) sts].

Finish to correspond with first shoulder, with reversed shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 (50) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 2(3) sts evenly across last row.

Change to No 9 needles and pattern across as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k6, * cross2K, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, k6.

2nd row: p6, * cross2P, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, p6.

3rd row: p6, * cross2K, p10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2K, p6.

4th row: k6, * cross2P, k10 (11), repeat from * to last 8 stitches, cross2P, k6.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern increasing 1 stitch at end of next and every following 8th row until there are 76 (79) stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 16½ (17) inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 (4) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternat row until 30 (37) sts remain, then at each end of every row untl 14 (15) sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, taking care not to spoil the ridge pattern.
Join collar at centre back neatly with a flat edge-to-edge seam.
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew collar neatly along back of neck.
Catch down 2 cast-on stitches at start of neck opening on wrong side.
Press all seams.

Materials

20 (22) ozs. Patons Double Knitting, in Violet.

A pair each of Nos
9 (3¾mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to a basic tension of 23sts x 31 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in two sizes to fit bust: 35-36 (37-38) inches; length from top of shoulders, 22½ (23) ins.; sleeve seam, 16½ (17) ins.

Abbreviations

Cross2K: knit into back of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Cross2P: purl into front of 2nd stitch on left hand needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2014

Stormcheater

Stormcheater.jpg

Another scarf/hood combination from the 1940s that is the partner of last year's pattern. It has a firm headband to frame the face, and a pocket construction at the back (see photo below) to keep that forties hairdo in good shape. The scarf ties are double thickness.

The Back with elastic casing:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: Slip 1, k1, * wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat the 3rd row 4 times.
8th row: Slip 1, k2tog, wfd;* k1, wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back; repeat from * to the last 3sts; kl, wfd k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd Row 3 times.

12th row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Cast off.

The Head Piece:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:

1st row: K2tog, knit to the last 2sts k2tog.
2nd row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until 68sts remain.
Cast off.

The Border:

Cast on 120sts.
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 11 times; the 2nd row twice; then the 1st and 2nd rows 12 times.
Cast off.

To Make Up the Stormcheater

Press each piece separately on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew the cast on edge of the back to the cast on edge of the head piece.
Commencing at this seam, sew the shaped side edges together for 14½ inches.
Fold back the cast on edge of the border to the centre (the knit row on the wrong side of the work formed by the purl row on the right side of the work); place a roll of cotton wool under this fold then sew the cast on edge to the last purl row before the knit row.
Fold back the cast off edge, pad with cotton wool to form a second roll and sew in position to correspond.
Place the open end of one padded rollover the other open end and sew both ends together.
Sew this end of the roll to the edge of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the other ends of the padded rolls in the same manner and sew to the other side of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the shaped edge of the head piece to the seam of the padded rolls.
Thread elastic through the casing on the back and sew in position at the ends.
Sew the edges of the elastic casing to the seam at the ends of the padded rolls.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 ozs 3ply wool.

One pair No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles.

9½ inches elastic.
Cotton wool for padding.

Tension

Approx. 32sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

© Christina Coutts 2007

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