Home

Weblog

Knitalong

Pattern of
the Month

On the Needles
(...and Off the Needles)

Stitchcraft

Vintage Patterns

About the
Idle Hands


Category entries for Babies and little people

Return to main

September 2015

Classic School Pullover

ClassicSchoolPullover3.jpg

A classic sleeveless school pullover with instructions for 4ply fingering and double knitting.
[Illustrated on a rather serious classic school boy.]

Instructions:

The instructions are give for a 28 inch chest with 3 larger sizes in brackets.
Note that there are 2 sets of instructions given separately for a 4 ply and a Double Knitting version of the pullover.

Casting on

Cast on using cable method.
Using two needles make a loop and slip it on to left-hand needle (1 stitch made), insert needle through front of stitch, draw loop through and place on left-hand needle (2 stitches).
* Insert needle through space between the 2 stitches, yarn round, pull loop through and place on needle (3 stitches). Repeat from * until you have the required number of stitches


4 ply Pullover Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 98 [106; 112; 120] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 2 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [74; 80; 88] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6
[7; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

4 ply Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k43 [47; 50; 54] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.
Next row: Cast off 2 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 rows, and at the same time decrease. 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 16 [19; 21; 24] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.
With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

4 ply Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches up right side of neck, and 34 [36; 38; 40] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

4 ply Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 112 [120; 126; 132] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 10 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands.
Press seams.


Double Knitting Pullover Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 [90; 96; 102] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [72; 78; 84] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 58 [64; 70; 76] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then cast off 5 [7; 7; 7] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Double Knitting Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k36 [39; 42; 45] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the following 5 rows, then 1 stitch on the following 4 alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 15 [17; 19; 21] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue with armhole and neck shapings to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

Double Knitting Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches up right side of neck, and 28 [30; 32; 34] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

Double Knitting Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands. Press seams.

Materials

4 ply version: 5 [6; 7; 7] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

DK version: 7 [7; 8; 9] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

4 ply version:
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches

DK version:
24 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 26 [28; 30; 32] inches.
Length: 17½ [18½; 19½; 20½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometimes called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit/purl 2 slipped sts together through back loops).

p2togtbl: decrease by purling 2 sts together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The yarn in ounces.
A 50g ball of yarn is approximately 1¾ oz, or the other way around: 1oz is about 28g.

When substituting yarn, ideally you need to calculate using the yardage of the yarns - and with old patterns this is usually impossible, as the yardage is not given. So you need to be aware that in some cases, where the old yarn was synthetic or had a very good yardage, you may find that you use as much as one 50g ball for every 1 oz ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2015

Andy Pandy Romper

AndyPandyRomper.jpg

This is an adorable romper; the stripes are created by knitting garter stitch ridges sideways using contrast yarn. Pom-pom ties are used as fasteners at the shoulders.

After last months picture of the Andy Pandy puppet, how could I resist making this outfit.

Instructions

The romper is easy to knit, though - like exam questions - make sure you read the pattern and understand the pictures of the pieces clearly before you start.

Pattern stitches

Garter Stitch: every row knitted.
Stocking stitch: 1 row knit; 1 row purl.
Striped pattern: 4 rows in white in stocking stitch, 2 rows in blue in garter stitch (both rows knitted). Repeat these 6 rows to form the stripes.

Trouser legs

This section is worked sideways in one piece up to the armhole. Dotted lines in picture show the centre sides and the ankle borders.

Using 3mm needles and white yarn (A) , cast on 34 sts and knit 3 rows of striped pattern.

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [81 sts]

Continue in striped pattern, shaping waist by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 9th and every following 10th row until 77 sts remain.

Work straight until leg measures 23cm (9 inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is about 87 rows; 14 blue ridges ending on row 3 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [30 sts]

Work straight on these 30 sts for 2 cm (¾ inch) ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is about 9 rows; 2 more blue ridges ending on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [77 sts]

Work straight until section measures 36 cms (14¼ inches) from the beginning, ending with right side facing.

Start shaping the waist again by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 10th row until there are 81 sts.
[Editors note: From now on, you can judge where to start increasing and casting off by folding your piece at the centre and matching the stripes.]

Work straight until section measures 47 cms (18½ inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is finishing on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [34 sts]

Work 2 rows stocking stitch in white (A).
Cast off.

Ankle Borders

With 2½mm needles and white yarn A, knit up 70 sts along lower edge of leg.

Next row: K1; (k2tog) 34 times; k1. [36 sts]

Now work in garter stitch for 2 cm (¾ inch).
Cast off.

Left Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to end. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k2tog, psso, knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to end. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Rep these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K3, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k2. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Right Back

Work as for Left front.

Right Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Rep these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k3. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, k3tog, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, k3tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Left Back

Work as for Right front.

Making Up

Join centre back seam and leg seams.

Placing left front over right front and right back over left back, sew bodice pieces to trousers.
[Editors note: It's not altogether clear what is meant by "left" and "right" here - both in the instructions and in the making up. Convention says that it means from the point of view of the person (or baby) wearing it. However the pictures imply that it is as you are looking at the romper. It does not matter of course - do what you like best - but be consistent. ]

Make twisted cords and small pom-poms, and attach to shoulders for fastenings.
[Editors note: I actually used press studs - the sort that you apply with a gripper tool - and added the pom-poms just as a decoration (I didn't want to leave them out as I think they are pretty cute!).]

Materials

2 x 50g ball yarn A (white),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (blue)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Tension

22sts x 38 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch pattern on 3mm needles.

Use smaller or larger needles to obtain the correct tension.

Size matters

Instructions given for age 3 months.

Chest 42 cms,
(17 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog/k3tog: knit 2 or 3 sts together.

Sl 1: slip 1 stitch

Sl 1, k1/k2tog, psso: slip 1, knit 1/k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 or 2 sts).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard double knitting with good yardage of 126 yards (115 meters) - so you may need 3 balls of the main colour if substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2015

Ducks On Parade

DucksOnParade.jpg

A twin set with a duck motif for Easter. However, the biggest charmer here is in the photo. Not only is the girl cute and looking like she having a lovely day out, but we have a real star in the shape of an original Andy Pandy himself.

Even if the cardigan set does not appeal, these are cute little duckling motifs and the charts could be used for cushions or as cross stitch patterns.

Instructions:

The individual ducklings are worked intarsia style, but main shade is stranded loosely across back of work when not in use.
Eyes and beaks of ducklings, and water are embroidered afterwards.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

Cardigan Back

Begin by winding 4 balls each of Lemon (L) and Gold (G) wool.
With No 12 needles and main shade (M) wool, cast on 100 sts and work 2 inches k1, p1 rib, increasing 3 sts evenly across on last row. [103 sts].

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 30 pattern rows from chart B, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.
Join in separate balls of L and G for each duckling.

When the 30 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in main shade (M) only until back measures 9 inches. Then with right side facing, begin to shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 83 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 14½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches.

Left Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [51 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 42 pattern rows from chart C, reading odd and even rows as on back and joining in a separate ball of G for each bird.
Remember that the mother duck is in white (W) and the duckling in Lemon (L) as before. The mother duck's beak is knitted in, rather than embroidered afterwards.

When the 42 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M only until front measures 7 inches.

Here shape front edge:
Next row (right side facing): Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Work 3 rows straight.

Continue thus, decreasing 1 stitch at front edge on the next and every following 4th row. Meanwhile, when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 5 knit rows, after which you keep the armhole edge straight.
Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row as before until 24 sts remain.

Work straight until front matches back.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Right Front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.
When working pattern from chart, read rows backwards, so that ducks will face each other at front edges, that is, read odd rows knit from left to right and even rows purl from right to left.
[Editor's Note: In the pdf file of the charts I have provided a copy of Chart C in reverse in case you find that easier to work from.]

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 52 sts and work 2 inches in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th row until there are 74 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 11½ inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 46 sts remain, and then at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front Borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With No. 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 9 sts and work a strip in k1, p1 rib, (rows on the right side having a k1 at each end), long enough to go up right front, round back of neck and down left
front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along, and make 5 buttonholes in right border, first to come about ¼ inch from lower edge, and the 5th at the beginning of the front slope with the remainder at equal intervals in between.
Mark the position of the buttons on the left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row casting on 2 over those cast off.

Jumper Front:

**
Begin by winding 3 balls each of G and L.
With No 12 needles and M, cast on 96 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 sts on last row [98 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Continue in stocking stitch and work 26 pattern rows from chart A, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right. Join in separate balls of and G and L wools for each duckling.

When the 26 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M until front measures 9 inches. Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following knit row until 80 sts
remain. **

Work straight until front measures 12½ inches. Then, with right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row (right side facing): K30, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 31 sts , decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 27 sts remain. Then decrease on every alternate row
until 24 sts remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 14 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).
With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches on the spare needle. Slip the centre 16 sts on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 32 sts, k2tog knit to end. [31 sts]

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Jumper Back

Work as for front from ** to ** . [80 sts]

Work straight over all stitches until back measures 11½ inches.
Here divide for back opening: -

Next row (right side facing): K42, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: K4, purl to end. NEXT Row:
Next row: Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to end.
Continue straight on these 42 sts, keeping 4 sts at centre back in garter stitch throughout and the remainder in stocking stitch
and at the same time make 3 buttonholes up opening (the 4th comes in neckband later) - first to come in next row and the remaining 2 at ¾ inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, knit to last 3 sts, wool forward, k2tog, k1.

When back measures same as front, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge); leave remaining 18 sts on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 38 sts, cast on 4 sts for underlap.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl to the last 4 sts, k4.

Finish to correspond with right shoulder, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 63 sts, and work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 71 sts.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve measures 2¾ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 47 sts remain, and then decrease at each end of every row until 19 sts
remain.

Cast off.

Jumper Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and M, pick up and knit 87 sts all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work inch k1/p1 rib, making 4th buttonhole after inch has been done and remembering to keep 4 sts at each end in garter stitch as before.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Embroider eyes with single brown detached chain stitch as indicated
on Chart; embroider beaks in gold slanting satin stitch shapes as indicated by lines on chart. Finally, indicate water round feet with a few straight stitches of varying lengths in white.

Cardigan: embroider eyes and beaks of ducklings as for jumper.
Sew on buttons.
Press all Seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:
8 oz Powder Blue (main shade).
½ oz ball in Lemon; small balls (less than ½ oz each) of 3 ply in Gold and White.
Scraps of brown for eyes.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Four small buttons for jersey and 5 larger ones for cardigan.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches on No 11 (3mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 25 ins; on cardigan, 26 ins;
length from top of shoulders: on jumper, 14 ins; on cardigan 14½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2¾ ins and 11½ inches.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. You can find some nice 3 plies available to meet the tension specified.
Just for the lemon colour used for the ducklings the specified yarn was Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora which would make a nice effect if you could find some suitable fluffy 3 or 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2014

Old Shale Angel

OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg

A really pretty top using the ubiquitous but nonetheless charming old shale (or old shell) stitch. Originally it was knitted in fine white cotton bands interspersed with a fine slightly fluffy yarn, giving it a summery feel. However - how charming it would be in red and white for a small person's party outfit at Christmas. I am not sure how I would arrange the colours for a winter version - I favour the dominant red colour for the plain garter stitch - but it might be interesting to have the white as the fluffy bands simulating fur trimming.

The pattern is for an entire outfit with pants, and some cute little cotton sandals (of dubious value...!).

Instructions for Angel Top

The angel top is worked in a combination garter stitch (every row knitted) and a Wave pattern using "old shale" (or shell) stitch.

When working the Wave pattern, carry the yarn not in use loosely up the side of the work.

Angel Top - main section

This section is worked in one piece up to the armhole.

Using 3mm needles and pink yarn (A) , cast on 192 sts and knit one row.

Continuing with yarn A begin Wave pattern as follows:

1st row (right side) : Knit.
2nd - 4th rows: Knit

Join in white yarn (B), working 5th - 14th rows in white:

5th row: Sl 1; * (k2tog) 3 times; (k1, yfwd) 6 times; k1; (k2tog) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
6th row:
Purl.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: Purl.
9th - 14th rows: Repeat rows 5-8 once, then rows 5 and 6 again.

These 14 rows form the pattern,

Repeat the pattern 3 (4) times more, then work the 1st to 3rd rows again.

Divide for armhole:

Next row (wrong side): K57, increase in the next 2 sts, k74, increase in the next st, and leave these 137 sts on a stitch holder; increase in the next st, knit to end.

Continue on these remaining 59 sts to make the Left Back. Work rows 5-14, break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K6; (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2) 7 times, k4. [45 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 24 (27½) cm, or 9½ (10¾) inches, ending with a right side row.

Cast off, placing a marker for the collar on the 26th stitch from the end.

With right side facing, rejoin white yarn B to sts on stitch holder and pattern 78 (as 5th row of Wave pattern); turn and leave remaining sts on stitch holder.

Continue in pattern on these 78 sts for Front and work rows 6-14.
Break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K4; (k2tog, k2) 18 times, k2. [60 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 20 (23½) cm, or 7¾ () inches, ending with a right side row.

Shape Neck:

Next row (wrong side): K27 and leave on a stitch holder; cast off 6 sts; knit to end.

Continue on remaining 27 sts for first side:

1st and every alternate row: Knit

2nd row (wrong side): cast off 3 sts, knit to end.
4th row: cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row:
cast off 1 st, knit to end.
8th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.
10th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.

Work a few rows on remaining 19 sts until Front matches Left Back to shoulder.
Cast off.


With right side facing, rejoin yarn A to 27 sts of front left on stitch holder and k27.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shaping.

With right side facing, rejoin white to 59 sts on stitch holder and pattern 59 (as 5th row of Wave pattern).
Finish Right Back to correspond with Left Back, reversing placing of marker for Collar.

Angel Top - sleeves

With 2½mm needles and yarn A, cast on 30 sts and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (wrong side): K1, (ml, k1) 29 times. [59 sts]

Change to 3mm needles, join in white yarn B and beginning with 5th row of the Wave pattern, work in pattern until sleeve measures approximately 11 (14½) cm, or 4¼ () inches, ending with a 14th pattern row.

Break off yarn B and continue in yarn A only.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a stitch holder.

Angel Top - collar

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 120 sts and work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn A, and join in yarn B.

1st row: Sl 1 , * k1, yfwd, k4, k2tog, sl 1, k1, psso, K4, yfwd; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: purl.

Rep these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: Sl 1 , * k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. [93 sts]
Cast off.

Angel Top - neck band

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 60 sts and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Making Up the Angel Top

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams.
Join sleeves to main part, unpicking contrast yarn and working stitch by stitch in back stitch on right side.
Sew Collar into neck opening, starting and ending at back markers.
Sew Neck Border over Collar, joining to Main Part in same way as the sleeves.
Make 2 buttonhole loops at Left Back and sew buttons on Right Back to correspond.

Materials

1 x 50g ball yarn A (pink),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (white)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Stitch holders.

2 buttons.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Yarn A: 25sts x 38 rows and yarn B: 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn A was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Yarn B was their 100% cotton "Perlé 5" yarn with a yardage of 219 yards (200 meters). I used a substitute Twilleys thread for this.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelOutfit.jpg


Instructions for Pants

The pants are worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted) in one piece, starting at the front waist, working down to the crotch, and then up the back, ending at the back waist.

Begin at front and with 2½mm needles cast on 48(56) sts and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 3mm needles and work 8(10) cms 3¼() inches in garter stitch, noting that 1st row you knitted is the right side, and ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for leg openings:

Next row: Knit 13(17) and leave on a stitch holder; k22, turn, and leave remaining 13 (17) sts on a stitch holder.

Continue on these centre 22 sts and work 9(10) cms 3½() inches in garter stitch,ending with a right side row.
Break yarn and leave 22 sts on a stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on first stitch holder and knit to end.
Continue on these 13(17) sts for left side of pants and work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a wrong side row.

** Begin shaping side by decreasing 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 6th(4th) row.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 4th row 2(1) times. [8(13) sts]
Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 1(2) alternate rows. [6(10) sts]
Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next and following 0(1) alternate rows. [4(6) sts]
Break yarn and leave these sts on a stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on 2nd stitch holder and knit to end. [13(17) sts]
Work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a right side row.

Shape Front Sides

Working right side of pants as left side from ** until 6(8) sts remain, ending at side edge.

Continue shaping sides and join all 3 parts to close leg openings:

Next row (wrong side): cast off 2 sts, k4(6) (including st left on needle after cast-off), k22 from centre, then k4(6) from left side. [30(34) sts]
Continue working across all stitches:

Next 2 rows: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 2 rows: Cast off 2(3) sts, knit to end
Next 2 rows: Cast Off 3(4) sts, knit to end.
Work 2 rows on remaining 16 sts.

Shape Back

2nd SIZE
Next 2 rows: Cast on 4 sts, knit to end.

BOTH SIZES
Next 2 rows: Cast on 3 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 rows: Cast on 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 (8) rows: Cast on 1 st, knit to end.
Work 3 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row 2 times. [46(56) sts]

1st SIZE
Work 5 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of the next row. [48 sts ]

BOTH SIZES
Continue straight until Back matches Front to start of rib.
Change to 2½mm needles and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pants

Leg Borders: With right side facing and using set of 4 needles, knit up 46(51) sts round each leg opening and work in rounds.

1st round: Purl
2nd round: Knit
Rep these 2 rows twice more.
Cast off loosely purlways.

Join side seams.

Materials

Pants: 1x 50g ball [suggested to be 257 yards / (235 meters]

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.
Set of 4, 2½mm (UK 12) needles with points at both ends.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

25sts x 38 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn used for the Pants was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelSandals.jpg

Instructions for Sandals

With 2mm hook make 20 chain foundation row.

SOLE

1st round: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 17ch, 3 dc in next ch, then back along other side of foundation: 1 ch: 1 dc in each of next 18 ch, 3 dc in next ch, sl st to join.

Work 2 more rounds, working 3 dc in stitch at each end of sole as before.

4th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 3 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice; sl st to join.

5th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 5 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts) twice; sl st to join. [66 sts]

Work 1 round dc on these 66 sts to complete sole and fasten off.

With right side facing, mark 33 sts round one end of sole and work back of sandal working back and forth in rows:

1st row: Rejoin yarn. 3 ch; miss 1 st; 1 tr in next st; (1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr in next st) 15 times, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch and tr on previous row. [33 sts]
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: 2 ch, 1 tr in each ch and tr on previous row.
5th row: As 1st row.
6th row: Without turning, work in crab stitch back across the row.

Fasten Off.

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right (assuming you are right handed and normally crochet from left to right). It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

TOE

Make 18 ch.
Foundation Row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end.
Mark centre st.
2nd row: work a row of dc, working 3 dc in centre stitch.
3rd row: work a row of dc, working 5 dc in centre stitch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along shaped edge.
Fasten off.

STRAPS for TOP of SANDAL

Make 26 ch and work Foundation Row as for Toe. [25 sts]

2nd and 3rd rows: 1 ch, 1 dc in each stitch to end.
Break yarn.

Miss 11 sts and rejoin yarn to next stitch 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches. [3 sts]

Work 3cms (1¼ inches) in dc on these 3 sts, then continue in crab stitch round all edges, making a buttonhole at each side of 3 dc strip,
and as close as possible to the tip.

To Make a Buttonhole

2 ch, miss 2 rows, 1 dc in next row.

ANKLE STRAP

Make 17 ch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along both sides.

TO MAKE UP

Sew Toe and Sandal Straps in place on sole, (see photo).
Join Ankle Strap to top of Sandal Back; pass through buttonholes worked on each side of the 3 dc strap.
Work buttonhole loop at end of Ankle Strap, and sew button to Sandal to correspond.
Work a row of crab stitch round outer edge of Sole.


Make a second sandal and reverse position of Ankle Strap and button.

Materials

1 ball cotton 3 ply - possible yardage: 219 yards (200 meters).

2mm crochet hook.

2 small buttons

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Equivalent tension of 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Phildar 100% cotton "Perlé 5" with a suggested yardage of 219 yards (200 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Notes on English Crochet Stitches

Double crochet:
draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble*:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble*:
pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble*:
pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

* not used in this pattern.


Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch - a picture painting a thousand words and so on.

April 2014

Bunny suits

BunnySuits.jpg

Cute little sweaters with rabbit motifs. Also supplies a pattern for a skirt and little shorts.

"Small girls and boys will love these Bunny Rabbit sets. Hers has a cute flared skirt, and his, neat little trousers. We knitted them in vivid red and white for tough wear."

Instructions.

Instructions for one size given for jumper, cardigan, shorts, and skirt.

Jumper

Front

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 86 stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

[Editor's note: I used to work twisted rib a little differently to the one described here. I would knit into the back of the knit stitches on right side rows, and purl into the back of the purl stitches on wrong side rows. This leads to very rigidly defined columns of knit stitches on the right side. It looks very attractive but it is less elastic than normal ribbing. ]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) and, joining in contrast white (W), work the two clour pattern rows 1-4 as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.
**

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 4 rows stocking-stitch in R, starting with a knit row.
Before working the rabbit motifs, wind wool on to bobbins - 2 bobbins with W and 1 bobbin R. Join in a separate bobbin W for each rabbit and 1 R bobbin between.
Note: Twist wools on wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

[Editor's note: You might need a second bobbin of red here - if you read later on they suggest you work with 3 bobbins as above and two balls of red - it depends which you find easier..]

Continue in stocking-stitch working from chart over the centre 44 stitches, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.
Your first 2 rows will read :

1st row (right side facing): Knit 21 R.; work centre 44 stitches from chart thus: 4 R, join in W bobbin, 10 W, join in R bobbin, 16 R, join in 2nd bobbin W, 10W., join in a second ball R, 4 R; then knit remaining 21 R.
2nd row: Purl, 21 R; from chart 1R, 13W, 16R, 13W, 1R.; purl remaining 21R.
Continue in this way until 20th row of chart has been worked.
Break W.

With right side facing, continue in R over all stitches and work 4 rows stocking-stitch.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W and work the two-colour pattern rows 1-4 as before. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking-stitch in R, until front measures 8½ inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 11½ inches.

With right side facing, shape neck:

Next row: Knit 26; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 16 stitches remain. Work a few rows straight until front measures 13 ins.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the begining of the next row, then 5 stitches at the begining of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, slip the centre 14 stitches on to a spare needle.
Rejoin wool to remaining 26 stitches and finish to correspond with the first side.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 28 rows stocking-stitch in R, then change to No 0 (3¾mm) needles, and work two-colour rows 1-4 inclusive again. BreakW.
Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue straight in stocking-stitch in R until back matches front at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armholes as for front. [66 stitches]Work 2 rows straight.

With right side facing, divide for back opening.

Next row: Knit 33, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 33 stitches until back matches front at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Leave remaining 17 stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 44 stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W, and work two-colour pattern rows 1-4 inclusive again. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking- stitch in R, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 60 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 9 ins.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck border

Join shoulder seams.
Using the set of No 11 (3mm) needles - or a circular needle - to facilitate working and main wool (R) wool, start at left side of back opening and with right side facing, k17 from spare needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches down left side of front, k14 from spare needle at centre, pick up and k15 stitches up right side, k17 from spare needle. [78 sts].

Working backwards and forwards (not in the round), continue as follows:

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and two-colour pattern.

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 7 rows stocking stitch in R, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Fold neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Buttonhole Band
With No 11 (3mm) needles, R wool, and right side facing, pick up and knit 30 stitches down right side of back opening.
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: * k2, wool forward, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit.
Cast off loosely.
Work.a row of double crochet in R down left side of opening.
Catch down border neatly to main work at start of opening.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
With black wool embroider eye and nose of each rabbit as illustrated.
Press all seams and neck border lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Trousers

Right Half

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R), cast on 82 stitches loosely and work 12 rows stocking-stitch, starting with knit row.

Make a hem on the next row by folding the work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Next row: Purl.

With right side facing, shape back as follows using short row shaping:

Next 2 rows: K10, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K20, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K30, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K40, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K50, turn and purl back,
Next 2 rows: K60, turn and purl back.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and continue in stocking-stitch over all stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until there are 94 stitches.

Work straight until front seam (short edge) measures 8 ins.

With right side facing, shape leg by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 9 rows stocking-stitch. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Left Half

Work as for right half, reversing back shaping, i.e. having wrong instead of right side facing. Your first two rows will read :-
Purl 10, turn and knit back.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join back, front and leg seams, leaving waist hem open on back for elastic.
Turn back last 7 rows round each leg to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position.
Press all seams and hems lightly.
Thread elastic through waist and sew up opening neatly.

Skirt

Back and front alike

With No 11 (3mm) needles and R wool, cast on 154 stitches loosely, and work 6 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next 2 rows: Purl.
The last 2 rows form ridge for hemline.

Change to No 10 (3¼) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Make a hem on next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 st. from cast-on edge all along.

Next row: Purl, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [155 sts]

With right side facing, shape as follows:

Next row (1st decrease row): K14, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k28) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k14. [145 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Next row (2nd decrease row): K13, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k26) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k13. [135 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 10 stitches thus on next and every following 12th row until 6th decrease row has been worked, and 95 stitches remain.
Work 11 rows straight.

Now shape skirt by decreasing 10 stitches as before but on on next and following 6th row [75 sts].
Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 9½ inches down centre.
Next row (wrong side facing): P2tog, purl to end. [74 sts]

Change to k1/p1 rib and work 1 inch, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing at waistband.
Join side seams. Cut elastic to fit waist and join. Then sew in position inside waist ribbing using herring bone stitch for casing.
Press seams.

Materials

8ozs 4ply in Lipstick Red and 1oz in Snow White for either set.

Pair each No 11 (3mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Set of 4 each No 11 (3mm),and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

5 buttons

Length of ½-inch wide elastic to fit waist.

Small amount of black wool to embroider eyes and nose on motifs.

Bobbins for two-colour pattern. (For example EZ Bobs or make your own - instructions below)

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¼mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.
Jumper: To fit 23- 24 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 13 inches; sleeve seam 9 inches.
Shorts
: width round widest part, 27 inches; length of front seam 8 inches.
Skirt
: length, 10% inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Bunny Motif Chart


To Make a Bobbin

Cut shape from stiff cardboard as in the diagram above, 2.5 inches deep and 2.6 inches wide. Cut out the hole and cut a slit in the top. Wind the wool on to the bobbin as shown in the diagram on the right, and pass through the slit as many times as required.

August 2013

Pretty bolero for a toddler

PrettyBolero.jpg

The bolero as such a popular wardrobe accessory for women in the 1950s - it went with all those off-the-shoulder/strapless little numbers (see footnote **) which was the only way to make them respectable day-wear.
This toddler adaptation with its cute puffy sleeves was clearly intended for a little girl.

Instructions

The instructions are for two sizes - the larger size is given in bold blue in curly brackets thus: "Intended to fit 1{2} year old.".
Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No.10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 70 {76} sts and work straight in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until back measures 2¼ {} inches.

With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following alternate row until 58{64} sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 5¾ {} inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 {9} sts. at beginning of next 4 rows. Cast off remaining 26 {28} sts. loosely.

Left front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 18 {21} sts and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping the front edge by increasing 1 stitch at the end of the next row, then at this edge on every following row until there are 27 {30} sts.
Work straight until front matches back at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following alternate row until 21 {24} sts. remain.
Work 4 rows straight.
With wrong side facing, start to shape front edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, then at this edge on every following 3rd row until 16 {18} sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 {9} sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (the armhole edge).

Right front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 43 {43} sts and purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and increase 21 sts on next row thus:
k1, * increase in next stitch, k1; repeat from * to end. [64 {64} sts].
Work straight until sleeve measures 1¾ inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 sts remain.

Next row (right side facing): k2tog, across entire row.
Next row: p1, * p2tog; repeat from * to end.
Cast off remaining 10 sts.

Borders

Join shoulder seams.

Main border: With No. 12 needles and contrast yarn C, cast on 7 sts and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Using contrast C, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: k1, p1, k3, p1, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row.
4th row: as 2nd row.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: k1, p1, k1; now join in M and make bobble by working (k1, p1, k1, p1) all into next stitch; now slip 2nd, 3rd and 4th sts over 1st and off needle; leave M yarn hanging,and pick up the contrast yarn C, k1, p1, k1.
Twist yarns at back of work when changing colour to avoid a hole and carry M loosely up back of work.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until strip fits all round bolero edge from centre back of neck. Cast off.

Pin in position as you go along

Sleeve Borders: In the same way work a strip in the pattern to fit all round each sleeve edge.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts gently on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew main border in position, joining edges at back of neck.
Sew on sleeve borders, joining ends in line with sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 {2} ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in main shade (Beau Blue) and 1{1} oz in white.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Width all round at underarm. 18 {20} inches; length from top of shoulders, 6½ {7} ins; sleeve seam, 2½ {} ins.

A word on the wool.

I used some vintage 3 ply yarn which had no label (but I believe is wool) for the main shade, and some Patons pure wool 3ply in white for the contrast.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


**Footnote: Have you seen Dana Wynter's outfit at the start of Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1956)?? Here - take a peek - it did have a bolero but she immediately removed it on entering the room.

BoleroDress.jpg

All this for a visit to the dentist - ok,ok, he was her old boyfriend whom she was trying to impress....

July 2013

Crochet Bootees for a Special Baby

CrochetBootees.jpg

Well - it's so much talked about I could not let it pass without a little commemoration could I?
Just make sure you make them for your own special baby - I am sure the Palace is exploding with little woolly items (and in one of the hottest month's on record...).

This crochet pattern is a staggered shell, which I found a little tricky to follow, so use the detail photo at the end for guidance as to what it should look like.

Instructions.

Special pattern stitch:
Picot: make 5 ch, then work 1 dc into 2nd of these 5 ch

And a reminder of English crochet stitches:

Double crochet: draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble: pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble: (not used in this pattern) pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loopthrough first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

Bootees (make 2)

Beginning at the sole: make 15(17;20;23)ch loosely.

1st round: Miss 3 ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 d tr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 9 dtr in last ch.
Now, work along other side of ch, working 1 dtr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 4 tr in same place as first 3 tr; sl st into 3rd ch at beginning to join the round.

2nd round: 3 ch, "inc", 1 tr in next st, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) 4 times, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) twice, sl st in 3rd ch at beginning. You now have 46(50;56;62) tr, counting the initial 3 ch as 1 tr.

3rd round: Working into the back loops only (leaves a ridge to mark sole): 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beginning.

4th round: 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg.

Repeat the 4th round 0(0;1;1) time(s).

Shape Instep

You are now going to work back and forth across the instep in rows.

1st row: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 28(30;33;36) tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.
2nd row: Miss 2 sl sts, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.

Repeat the 2nd row 4(4;4;6) times.

Next row: Miss 2 sl st, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg of 1st row to rejoin the round. You now have 28(32;38;38) tr.

Next round: 4 ch, miss 1(1;2;2) tr, 1 tr in next tr, * 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, repeat from * to last 1(1;2;2) sts, miss last 1(1;2;2) sts, sl st in 3rd of 4 ch to join the round. You now have 14(16;18;18) holes.

Next round: 1 ch, 1 dc in same place as sl st, * 1 dc in next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in next tr, repeat from * to last ch sp, 1 dc in 1 ch sp, 1 dc in same place as first dc, DO NOT JOIN the round.
You now have 29(33;37;37) dc.

Turn, and work in rows as follows:

First size only:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc *; repeat from * to * (0;1;1) times; 3ch, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc (3;1;1) times; repeat from * to * (1;2;2) times, ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

All sizes: You now have 4(5;5;5) patterns.

2nd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first dc, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in last dc instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

3rd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Repeat the 3rd row 1(1;3;3) times.

Next row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, miss 1 sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Next row: (3 ch, 2 tr) in first tr, * miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * to last pattern, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, 3 tr in top of turning ch, "Picot". Fasten off.

Make Up

Using a flat seam, join back seam.
Thread ribbon through holes at ankle.
It is recommended not to press these bootees, owing to the crochet texture.

Materials

1 ball 3ply.

3mm crochet hook.

1m of ribbon

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes: length of sole 7(8;9;11) cm

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
htr: half treble
dtr: double treble

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;
inc: increase - work 2 tr in next tr
dec: decrease - (yoh, draw up a loop in next st, yoh and draw through first 2 loops on hook) twice, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Picture of pattern detail:

CrochetBootees.jpg

Knitted Bootees for a Special Baby

KnittedBootees.jpg

Well - it's so much talked about I could not let it pass without a little commemoration could I?
Just make sure you make them for your own special baby - I am sure the Palace is exploding with little woolly items (and in one of the hottest month's on record...).

This is the knitted set which is fairly plain with a discreet eyelet pattern, and should be quite simple to make.

Bootees (make 2)

With No 10 needles, cast on 33 sts. and knit 1 row.

1st - 4th rows: Knit.
5th row (eyelet row): K1; (yfwd., k2tog) 16 times.
6th - 8th rows: Knit.
9th row: Knit.
10th row (eyelet row): K1; (yfwd., k2tog) 16 times.
11th - 20th rows: as 1st to 10th rows inclusive.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

Next row: as 5th row.
Next row: as 10th row.
Next row: K23. Turn.
Next row: K1; p11; k1.

Work 14 rows in stocking stitch on these 13 sts.
Break off yarn.

Rejoin yarn to inside edge of 10 sts, then knit up 10 sts along side of foot; knit across 13 sts on needle, knit up 10 sts from other side of foot, finally knit across remaining 10 sts. [53 sts]
Knit 9 rows (garter stitch - every row knit).

Shape toe:

1st row: (k1, k2tog, k21, k2tog) twice; k1.
2nd row: K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog; k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2tog, k18, k2tog) twice; k1.
4th row: as 2nd row.

Cast off.

Make Up

Press lightly on wrong side. Join seam.
Using 2 lengths of twisted yarn 40 in. long, make a cord and thread through holes at ankle.
Sew a tassel to each end of cord.
Press seams.

Materials

1 25g ball Quickerknit - for example Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino

Pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

26sts x 34 rows to 4 inches on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2013

Easter Baby Bonnet

EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg

This looks like a little Victorian cherub, though the pattern is much later. It uses a combination of smooth and fluffy 4 ply yarns in a relatively simple crochet motif.
I think the bonnet is particularly cute.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.


Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2013

Heirloom shawl

HeirloomShawlC.jpg

A lace baby shawl made in a 3 ply fingering weight, which makes it a bit more feasible to contemplate as a viable project than the traditional 2 ply, while yet remaining fine and lacey. Added to that, it is made up in sections, rather than a single piece which makes it easier to handle, with all the decreasing lace stitches.

Instructions

The shawl is made in 5 pieces: first a centre square, and then 4 mitred borders that are sewn on each side of the centre.

Centre Square

With No 8 needles, cast on 162 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch), sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: k1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch); repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows until work measures 21 inches.
Cast off.

Borders (make 4)

With No 9 needles, cast on 206 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: knit.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows twice more [200 sts].

Change to pattern as follows:-

1st row: p2tog, p4, k2tog, wrn, p2, * (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k 1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2, p2tog
2nd row: k 5, p2, k2, * p7, (k1, p3)twice, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k3.
3rd row: p2tog, p3, wfd, SL1, k1, psso, p2, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p1, p2tog.
4th row: k 4, p2, k2, * p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k2.
5th row: p2tog, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, ,k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; rep, from * 5 times more, p2tog.
6th row: k 3, p2, k 2, * p9, k l, (p1,k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
7th row: p2tog, p1, * wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p1, p2tog.
8th row: k2, p2, k2, * p11, k1, p11, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
9th row:
p2tog, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, * k9, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 5 times more, p2tog.
10th row: k1, p2, * k2, p25, k2, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
11th row: k2tog, k1, * p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3,
wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, k l, k2tog.
12th row: * p2, k2, p6, k1, p11, k1, p6, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2.
13th row: k2tog, * p2, (k1, wlfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog
14th row: * p1, k2, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, p7, k2, p1; repeat from * to end.
15th row: p2tog, p1, * k1, wfd, k 3, wfd., kl, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, kl, pl, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, kI, psso, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, pl, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p1, p2tog
16th row: * k 2, p8, k1, (p2, kl) twice, p8, k2, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, p8, k1,(p2, k1) twice, p8, k2.
17th row: p2tog, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, at. 1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2tog.
18th row: k1, * p9, k1,(p1, k1) twice, p9, k2,
p2, k2; repeat from * 4 times more, p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k1.
19th row: k2tog, wfd., k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * p1, sl1, k2tog,
psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k2tog.
20th row: p11, * k 1, p11, k 2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, p11.
21st row: k2tog, k8, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k9; repeat from * 4 times more, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k8, k2tog.
22nd row: p10, * p13, k2, p2, k2, p12; repeat from * 4 times more, p11.
23rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, * k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd., k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog.
24th row: p15, * k l, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k1, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, p4.
25th row: k2tog, k7, p1, * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k7, k 2tog.
26th row: p8, k1, * p3, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k1, p3, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p8.
27th row: k2tog, k6, p1, * k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1. p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k6, k2tog.
28th row: p7, k1, * p2, k1, p8, k2, p2, k2,
p8, k1, p2, kl; repeat from * ending p7.
29th row: k2tog, k5, p1, * k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, pl; repeat from * 4 times more, k5, k2tog.
30th row: p6, k1, * p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p6.
31st row: k2tog, k4, p1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, s1, k2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k4, k2tog.
32nd row: p5, k1, * p11, k2, p2, k2, p11, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p5.
33rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd., sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog.
34th row: p17, * k2, p2, k2, p25; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p2, k2, p17.
35th row: k2tog, k3, * wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k l; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, k2tog.
36th row: p4, * p5, k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6 k1, p6; rep, from * 4 times more, p3.

Cast off 131 sts.

Make 3 more pieces the same.

To Make Up

Pin parts out and press under a damp cloth.
Join borders very neatly to centre square, then join corners of border. Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3 ply Patons Baby Wool.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

In stocking stitch: 26 stitches. and 34 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles.
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

32 inches square.

Abbreviations

wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.


sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).


k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

The original pattern calls for Patons "Beehive" which is no longer available but Patons do a range of 3 ply baby wools.

Patons Dreamtime Fairytale is 100% wool available in 6 pastel shades; wash at 30°; 50g ball, 230m/252 yards.

They also make Fairytale 3 ply (not "Dreamtime"), which is a mix of acrylic and nylon in white only. Maybe not so perfect for an heirloom shawl.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2012

Nursery Slippers

NurserySlippers.jpg

Toddler slippers for a quickly knitted Christmas gift. The top of each slipper is knitted, and is designed to be attached to a purchased leather sole. You could make your own out of leather (but be prepared to line it - perhaps with quilt batting and fabric, fleece fabric, or a shaped piece of knitting. If you design your own knitted sole you can make it non-slip by sewing on sole-shaped cut-outs from cushioned fabric ("slip-a-grip"); various brand options can be purchased on a roll from kitchen suppliers, or you can buy specialist sewing fabrics for this purpose.
Below I've added a great You Tube link for instructions on how to make your own non-slip soles.

Instructions

Both slippers are worked alike. The following special abbreviation is used throughout the pattern, making a wide ribbed cable.

Tie 5: Insert right-hand needle between 5th and 6th stitches from point of left-hand needle, draw loop through and place on point of left-hand needle, then k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.


Both slippers are worked alike,

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.
Break wool.

Slip first and last 6 stitches on safety-pins for heel.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the centre 33 stitches and with No 9 needles continue in pattern for instep as follows:-

1st row: p4, (rib 5, p5) twice, rib 5, p4.
2nd row: k4, (rib 5, k5) twice, rib 5, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

5th row: p4, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p.4.
6th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

11th row: p4, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p4.
12th row: as 2nd row.

These 12 rows form pattern.

Repeat, them once more, then rows 1-6 inclusive again.

Continue in pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: 27 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 15 stitches remain. Cast off.

Join side edges of ribbing to form back seam.

For the heel:
Place the two sets of 6 stitches on a No 11 needle. With No 9
needles and right side facing, work in reversed stocking-
stitch as follows:-

Next row: p twice in 1st Stitch, p to last stitch, p twice in last stitch.
Next row: knit. Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 26 stitches ending with a knit row. Cast off.

Finishing

Pin out patterned part and heel of each slipper and press on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Sew slanting side edges of heel piece along side edge of instep piece as far as they will go without stretching; press seams.
Join back seam.

Pin tops to slipper soles and sew firmly in position.

Materials

2oz Double Knitting yarn in Lipstck Red.

One pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

A pair of size 8 soles (about 25 or 26 european size).
[Editor's note: You can try a search for "knitted slipper soles". I came up with this one.

Tension

23 stitches by 31 rows to 4 inches over stocking stich on 3¾mm needles

Size matters

Designed "for a toddler" with some flexibility as to the size of sole chosen. For a larger slipper, experiment with thicker yarn and fit to a larger sole.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn recommended was a standard double knitting. Despite the tension being very slightly tighter than usual due to the 3¾mm needles used, I think a slightly heavier weight - an Aran weight perhaps - would be quite acceptable. A tighter fabric for slippers is probably more desirable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2012

Reindeer jacket (for a small boy...or girl)

Florence.jpg

This looks so cute and would make a lovely Christmas cardigan for a toddler. The fair-isle design is not too challenging and hopefully you have plenty of time to knit for this year's festivities.
One size only I'm afraid, but you could increase it slightly by increasing the yarn weight and needle size.

This was beautifully knitted by Sara for her daughter, who also models it. The original (boy) model seen after the pattern instructions.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, kl st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Chart C

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Chart D

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

June 2012

Baby Shawlette

BabyShawletteFront.jpg

This is so very easy to knit and looks so cute over a (Liberty?) cotton baby frock. No idea how practical it is to keep in place, but it has secure back fastening straps and is perfect as a gift or for that special summer baby occasion.

Instructions

The shawlette is worked in garter stitch (every row knitted) throughout. You start your knitting at the bottom of the back and work up towards the neck, where you divide and complete each front section separately. It is designed to cross over at the front, and button into place at the back.

Using No 12 needles, cast on 50 sts and work in garter stitch for ½ inch (approximately 8-9 rows).

Next row(make eyelets): K6; ** wrn, k2tog; repeat from ** to last 6 sts; k6.
Next row:
Knit.

Start to shape the back as follows:

1st row: K6, wrn; knit to last 6 sts; wrn, k6.
2nd row: Knit

Repeat these two rows, (increasing 2 sts on each alternate row), until there are 115 sts. Your work then measures approximately 5¾ inches from the beginning.

Now start to shape the right front, working each side of the neck separately.

Next row: K6, wrn, k40, turn.
Leave the remaining 69 sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, wrn, k2tog; knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, wrn, k3tog, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: Knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k2tog, k5").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches.

Next row (make buttonhole): K2, cast off 2, knit 2.
Next row: K2, cast on 2 over those cast off, knit 2.
Next row: K2tog, k2, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog and pull thread through to cast off.

Now pick up the sts left on the spare needle and join yarn to neck edge where you left off. Cast off 23 sts then, start to shape the left front, by knitting to the last 6sts, wrn, k6 [47 sts].

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to last 8sts; s1,k1,psso; wrn, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, s2,k1,pass 2 slipped sts over; wrn, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to end

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k5, s1,k1,psso").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches, and finishing with a buttonhole as for the right front.

To Make Up

Do not block or press.
Sew in all ends.
Sew buttons to back to attach front straps.

Materials

1 x 40g ball 4ply fingering yarn.

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm ) needles.

2 small buttons.

Tension

30sts x 58rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Size matters

To fit 3-6 months (18-19 inch chest).

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend.
You could use beautifully soft Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, or experiment to make a larger size using Baby Cashmerino (check out with a swatch for both needle size and drape).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here's a view showing you the back.

BabyShawletteBack.jpg

January 2012

Isobel's Little Blanket

IsobelsBlanket.jpg

This is small blanket or cot cover made from 12 crochet squares in chunky yarn (so quick to make). It's based the usual granny-square principle, but a very pretty example of it incorporating the central flower motif.

Instructions

There are a couple of new stitches used in this pattern, as well as basic chain, dc, and treble. There is a "cluster" used in making the central flower, and crab stitch for the edging.

Make cluster:

Working all into the same stitch, **yoh, draw through loop **; repeat from ** to ** 4 times (9 loops on hook); yoh, draw loop through all loops on hook; yoh, draw loop through stitch on hook.
[Editor's note: This last stitch is just "1 chain".]

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right. It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

Motif (make 12)

Starting at the centre of the square: using 7mm hook and first contrast, (plum), make 6ch and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
2nd round: **1 cluster in first dc, 3ch; 1 cluster in next dc, 1ch **; repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first st.
Change to second contrast (cream).
3rd round: Insert hook in first 3-chain space and make 2 chain for first treble; **2tr in same space, 3ch; 3tr in same space, 1ch; 3tr in next 1-chain space, 1ch; 1tr in next 3-chain space, ** repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, omitting the very last tr in the repeated sequence, and join with a slip stitch to top of first chains.
Change to third contrast (lime).
4th round: 1 dc **1dc over each of next 3tr, 3dc into next 3-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space;**. Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.

Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

IsobelsBlanket_detail.jpg

To Make Up

Make 12 squares altogether.

With 7mm hook and 3rd contrast (lime), join 2 squares together; hold right sides together and slip stitch through the back loop of each dc, leaving the front loops exposed as a decorative ridge on the right side (see photos).
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant here, try experimenting. There is a loop on each side of a crochet stitch; usually when placing a stitch on top on the next row, you push your hook through both loops, but for some decorative sts, you are asked to use either only the back or only the front loops in order to create a ridge, Whatever you end up doing, just make sure you are consistent, so that you get a nice consistent pattern emerging.]

Join 3 squares in a row, then join the 4 rows together.

Finally, using first contrast (plum) and right side facing, work a row of dc all around the blanket, and work 2 or 3sts into the 4 corner sts, to make it curve properly. Then, keeping the right side facing you, change to a 6mm hook and go back the way you came, working one row of crab stitch right to left.

Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of chunky in each of first and second contrast and 1 ball in third contrast.


One No 2 (7mm) and one No 4 (6mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each square is intended to measure 4¾ inches.

Size matters

To fit cot, pram, or Moses basket.

Abbreviations

yoh: yarn over hook.
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original yarn produces a tension of 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch. You can substitute an Aran weight yarn worked double throughout, though this is less easy to work with for crochet patterns.

I used Patons Pompero a chunky yarn, knitting to a tension of 16sts x 22 rows to 4 ins, which is thinner, though I used a 7mm hook with it.

Result of my yarn choice is a smaller blanket, requiring only one ball in each colour.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch,
(a picture painting a thousand words and so on).

October 2011

Jacob's Sleeping Bag of Many Colours

JacobsBag.jpg

This is a vintage baby-bag pattern probably intended for babies up to 3 months in age. It's very simple to knit and fastened around the edge with easy poppers. It's tempting to knit this in beautiful, soft, lofty yarns - however, it does need to be washable, if not so very hard wearing.
OK - maybe not so many colours - but so cute!

Instructions

The striped pattern is worked as follows:

1st row: Knit in main shade
2nd - 11th rows: Knit in first contrast
12th row:
Knit in main shade
13th - 22nd rows: Knit in second contrast

These 22 rows are repeated to form the striped pattern.

Body

The body is worked in one piece; you start off knitting short, shaped pieces for the back and front separately then join them both onto one needle. The pattern as written should work out that the stripes match up when you join them together - make sure they do - and you may want to use a circular needle for the 86 stitches in chunky yarn.

Back:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and second contrast (Pink), cast on 25 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 4 rows in pink, 1 row in main (White), 9 rows in first contrast (Sky Blue) and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.

Change to blue yarn for 9 rows:
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
13th row: Knit
14th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [45 sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th row: Knit.

Change to pink yarn and work in sts for 5 rows starting with a purl row.
Leave the sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.
[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Front:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast (Sky Blue), cast on 23 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 6 rows in blue contrast, 1 row in main (White), and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.

Change to pink yarn:
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Knit
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [41 sts]

[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Right side facing, continuing in pink yarn, knit 41sts from front, and then 45 sts from back (stitches on holder). [86 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 20 inches (51cm) - (measure the back segment), ending with a wrong side row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 96-98 rows from start of back. End after 5 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 6th row in blue.]

Right side facing, tie coloured thread or place marker, between the 41st and 42nd sts and between the 84th and 85th sts.

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4sts, work to end, and increase (cast on) 3 sts. [85sts]
Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the front, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Next row(right side facing and keeping striped sequence correct): Cast off 3 sts, k 33 (34sts on needle). Turn, leaving remaining 48sts on a spare needle.

2nd row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [32sts]
3rd row: Cast off 3sts, knit to end. [29sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [27sts]

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th row(and every following knit row up to and including row 13): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row(and every following purl row, up to and including row 14): Decrease 1 stitch, purl to end. [12sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th: Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [11sts]

Change to blue yarn for rest of front:
16th -23rd rows (every row): Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [3sts]
24th row (wrong side facing): Purl (no shaping).
25th row: Decrease 1 stitch, knit to end. [2sts]

The front should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Back raglan shaping:

With right side facing, take up 43sts of the back and leave the remaing 5 sts at the end of the row on a holder.
[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the back, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Keeping striped sequence correct work as follows: cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and one stitch at the beginning of the next 16 rows.
Cast off remaining 15 sts.

With right side facing, take up the remaining 5 sts on the holder, and keeping striped sequence correct work as follows:
[Editor's note: right side facing to begin 8th row of pattern in blue.]

1st row (right side facing): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
2nd row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th and every alternate row until row 13: Decrease 1 st, knit to end.
6th and every alternate row until row 12: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
14th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

Change to blue yarn to complete:
15th - 22nd row (every row): Decrease 1 st, work to end.
23rd row: Knit
24th row:
Decrease 1 st, purl to end.
25th row: Knit
26th row: Decrease 1 st, purl to end.

The work should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Here's a photo of what it looks like (Figure 1):

 

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 26sts. and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, ending with a wrong side row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and striped stocking stitch starting with 1 row of main shade (White). Then work in blue as follows:

2nd - 10th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
11th row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [28sts]

12th row: Purl one row in white.

13th - 20th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
21st row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [30sts]
22nd row: Purl one row in blue.

23rd row: Knit one row in white.

Work 7 rows straight in blue. Work measures 7ins (18cm), ending with right side facing to start raglan shaping.
[Editor's note: Make sure that the pattern sequence matches that of back and front at start of raglan shaping.]

Shape raglan by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1st at each end of every following 3rd row, twice, 6 sts remain.

Cast off.

Hood

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast, cast on 17 sts and work in striped pattern starting with 3 rows of the first contrast.
Continue following the striped sequence until work measures until work measures 6¾ins (17cm), ending with wrong side row, and 6 rows of second contrast.

Cast on 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [39 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 11½ins (29cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of second contrast.

Cast off 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [17 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 18ins (46cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of first contrast.

Cast off.

Here's a photo showing how the hood looks (Figure 2):

 

Front and Hood Band:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 211sts and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, arranged as follows:

1st row: K2 * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: P2 * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch; p1.

End with a wrong side row.

Next row: Knit and leave sts on a holder.

To Make Up

Sew up sleeve seams, and sew raglan seams together.
The left sleeve front seam is from F to Sl and the back seam is from G to Sl; the 6 cast-off sts of the sleeve head sits between F and G (refer back to Figure 1); likewise the right sleeve is set in H-Sr and A-Sr, and the right sleeve head sits between H and A.

Sew up hood seams, bringing together points G and H to make the hood shape as shown in Figure 2 and then sew the back of the hood to the back neck of the body between points G and H in Figure 1.
Sew the left side of the hood from G to F across top of sleeve head and then across to E ending about an inch away from the point E.
Sew the right side of the hood from H to A across top of sleeve head and then a further 2 inches or so down towards B.

With No 6 (5mm) hook and main shade work 2 rows dc along edge of sleeping bag back from E to D and all around to C (refer back to Figure 1), working tightly across the bottom of the back section so that it is slightly gathered and curls up to form the bottom of the bag.
[Editor's note: You also need to work tightly and gather up the corner between E and D near Sl in figure 1.]

Here's a photo of the bottom section of the back of the bag (Figure 3):

Sew on front and hood band stitch by stitch from C all around to A and then around edge of hood from A to E fitting the edge of the band into the corner by the edge of the hood, at point E.

Sew on snap fasteners evenly from C to D to E on right side of work and from A to B to C on wrong side edge of front.

Press all seams heartily. (That is: carefully with a damp cloth).

Sew on decorative buttons if required.

Materials

3 x 50g balls chunky yarn in main colour, (this is the colour of the edging and narrow stripes), and 4 balls each in 2 contrast collours.

A pair each of No 6 (5mm) and a No 4 (6mm) needles.
One No 6 (5mm) crochet hook.

10-12 x 17mm snap fasteners

9 optional decorative buttons.

Tension

13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round: 25 ins, (64cm); Length from back neck: 25½ ins (65cm).

Abbreviations

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The chunky yarn knits to a tension of tension 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.
You can substitute an Aran weight yarn knitted double throughout, (check your tension with a swatch).

I used King Cole Comfort Chunky (100g balls) - 2 balls of each in colours: soft pink, ice, and white.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

July 2011

Miss Muffet Pinny

MuffetPinny.jpg

All dressed up in a charming pinafore, suitable for a spring or summer celebration, perhaps, in a lighter cotton-blend 4ply. Alternatively, try an angora or mohair blend for a more wintry festive feel.
The pattern for the dress underneath is also given, although, today, we seem to be fully equipped with central heating everywhere, so this combination may prove to be too hot for most children.

Instructions

The pinafore is worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Panel Pattern over 5 stitches:

1st row: k2, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k1
2nd and every alternate row: purl
3rd row: k1, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1
5th row: as first row
7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows: knit
16th row:as second row
These 16 rows form panel pattern.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 223/239/255 sts. and work 5 rows garter-stitch, that is: every row knit.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows :

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
5th row: k6, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
9th row: knit.
11th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
13th row: k2, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2.
15th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
16th row: as second row

Shape skirt and place panel pattern as follows:

1st decrease row: k5/13/5, (panel pattern 5 as 1st row, k5, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, panel pattern 5 as 1 st row, k5/13/5. [210/226/240 sts]

Keeping continuity of panel pattern, work 11/17/25 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5. [197/213/225 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k3) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5 [184/200/210 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

1st and 2nd sizes: Continue decreasing 13 sts thus on next and following 16th/18th row [158/174 sts].
3rd size: Continue decreasing 15sts thus on next row [195 sts].

All sizes:
Next row (wrong side facing): p18/14/6, p2tog, (p28/34/18, p2tog) 4/4/9 times, purl to end [153/169/185 sts].
Work a few rows straight in stocking-stitch until skirt measures 9½/11/12½ inches, ending with wrong side facing.

Divide for front and backs:
Next row: p21/23/25, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 21/23/25 stitches for right back until work measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 15/17/19 sts.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches from holder; cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole), p43/47/51, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 43/47/51 stitches for front until work measures 12/13½/15½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k8/9/10, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder .
Continue straight until left front measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

Work 1 row straight.

Cast off remaining 2/3/4 sts.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remainiing stitches, cast off centre 27/29/31, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches on holder, cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole) purl to end.

Finish to correspond with right back, reversing shapings.

Shoulder Frills:

With No 12 needles, cast on 103/111/119 sts. and work 3 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles and work rows 1-15 of pattern as for main part.
1st size: Next row: p5, p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 30 times, p6 [72sts].
2nd and 3rd sizes: Next row: p8/8, (p1, p2tog) 32/34 times, p7/9 [79/85 sts].
All sizes: Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.
Sew cast-off edge of shoulder frill along armhole edge, and sides of frill along cast-off edge at beginning of armhole shaping.

Make borders: With right side facing and 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc up left back, round neck and down right back. increasing and decreasing at corners as required.
Make 4 buttonloops on right back on 2nd row, first to come level with cast-off edge at armhole, 4th to come at neck edge, and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond.
To make a buttonloop: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3/3/4 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

4 small buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Eyelet pattern and sleeve frill detail:

MuffetPinnyDetail.jpg MuffetPinnyDetail2.jpg

MuffetPinny.jpg

... and the little dress

MuffetDress.jpg

This is the plain and simple dress designed to go under Miss Muffet's pinafore.

Instructions

This is an A-line dress, knitted completely plain, with a high round neck and long sleeves.

Back

**
With No 12 needles, cast on 114/120/128 stitches and work 5 rows in garter-stitch, that is, every row knit

Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows straight.

1st decrease row: k26/28/30, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k54/56/60, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k26/28/30. [110/116/124 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k25/27/29, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k25/27/29. [106/112/120 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k24/26/28, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k24/26/28. [102/108/116 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and every following 12th/14th/16th row until 82/88/96 sts; remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 12/13½/15 inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 62/68/72 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 56/60/64 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 14/16/17½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for back opening:
Next row: k28/30/32, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder.

Continue straight on first set of stitches until back measures 16½/18½/20½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 2/3/4 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Leaving remaining 14/15/16 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work straight until front measures 15/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k20/21/22, turn and leave remaining stitches on a stitch-holder.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 14/15/16 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight. Cast off remaining 2/3/4 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 40/44/46 sts. and work 7 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles.
Next row: k1/3/2, m1 , (k2, m1 ) 19/19/21 times, k1/3/2: [60/64/68 sts].
Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve measures 9½/10½/12 inches, ending with right side facing,

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing and No 12 needles, start at top of left back and work as follows:-
Knit 14/15/16 from left back, pick up and k12/14/14 down left side of neck, k16/18/20 from centre front. pick up and k12/14/14 up right side, knit across 14/15/16 stitches from right back [68/76/80 sts].
Work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Cast off.

Left Back Border: With 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc along left back edge.
Right Back Border: Work as for left with the addition of 3 button loops, first to come ½ inch above start of opening, third to come at centre of neckband, and 2nd spaced evenly between.
Mark positions and work loops: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.
Sew on buttons.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Run 1 row shirring elastic directly above garter-stitch cuff. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 4/4/5 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

3 small buttons.

Shirring elastic for cuffs.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 16½/18½/20½ inches; sleeve seam: 9½/10½/12 inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

MuffetDress.jpg

April 2010

Little Raglan Reefer

RaglanReefer.jpg

Here is a cute little knitted reefer for a small child (6-24months). It dates from pre 1960s where children's knitwear was not inspiring, but as soon as I saw this I wanted to make it - I am a sucker for any nautical theme, especially for kids (and dolls...)

Instructions.

This pattern is given for 2 size options - the instructions for the larger size are blue bold type in curly brackets.

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib as follows:
1st rib row: K2; *p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd rib row: *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times, then 1st row once.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 6) 7 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [63{69}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k11{13}; (p1, k4, ) twice, p1; k11{13}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2F, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2F, p1; p1, C2B, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2B, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until you have completed row 28{32}.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern as you work these rows).

[Editor's note: you should be about to begin Row 5 of the pattern sequence for the smaller size and Row 3 (a cable row) for the larger size.]

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [19{21}sts]
Cast off.

Front

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib for the first 11 rows as you did for the back.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 7) 6 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [62{68}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; (p1, k1, ) 8{9} times; k1.

Turn and continue working on these 40{44}sts to make the left front (these instructions are intended for a boy - see editors note below) and slip remaining 22{24} sts on to a stitch holder and leave to work later.

[Editor's note: If you want to make this for a girl - maybe in white? - then you will perhaps want to reverse these instructions by working the first 22{24} sts, casting on 20sts and working on these 40{44} sts as written, omitting the button holes. Pick up the rest of the sts to work the right front - and don't forget to work the buttonholes on the right front!]

2nd row: (K1, p1) 9{10} times; purl to the last st, k1.

[Editor's note: The centre panel on each of the front pieces is worked in double moss stitch, and I found it convenient to put a stitch marker after I had worked the first 18{20} sts of row 2, to show the limit of this section.]

3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: K2, (p1, k1) 8{9} times; purl to the last st, k1.
5th row (on which buttonholes are worked): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; p2tog, yrn, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; yfwd, k2tog, k1.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k8{9}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch panel correct throughout, work 16{20} rows, working buttonholes as before on the 9th of these rows (row 21 for both sizes).

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end, and cast on 5 sts.
[Editor's note: This creates the jacket-style revere].

** Keeping continuity of the pattern, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 18{20} sts remain of the moss stitch panel.
Work a further 16{18} rows straight in moss stitch as set.
Cast off.

Completing the other side to make the right front:

Slip the sts from the stitch holder on to a No 10 needle, point facing centre of work (right side facing you), and cast on 18{20}sts. [40{44}sts].
Change to No 8 needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (p1, k1) 9{10} times.
3rd row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (k1, p1) 8{9} times; k2.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch correct throughout, work 17{21} more rows, thus finishing at side edge.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row (wrong side facing): Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]

Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end, cast on 5 sts.

Complete to match the left side of front, working from ** to end.

Right sleeve:

Using No 10 needles, cast on 32{34}sts. Work 13{15} rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 3{4}; (increase in next st, rib 4) 5 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [38{40}sts]

Change to No 8 needles and proceed in stocking stitch with cable panels set as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K3{3}; (p1, k4, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, k4, p1; k3{3}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K3{3}; (p1, C2B, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, C2B, p1; k3{3}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern as on last 6 rows, increasing 1 st at both ends of next and every following 6th row, until there are 50{54}sts; work the extra sts in stocking stitch.
Then work 3{7} rows straight before starting the raglan decreases.

Shape raglan by working rows as you did for the back:

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [6{6}sts]
Cast off.

Right sleeve:

Work as for the right sleeve, but working C2F instead of C2B.

[Editor's note: The sleeves are identical apart from the way the cables twist, and obviously you can choose to sew them into the Reefer in whatever orientation you prefer.]

To Make Up

Block each piece from the wrong side, pressing very lightly using a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.

Join side, raglan, and sleeve seams using a flat seam.
Stitch the collar into position across the sleeve tops and back of the neck, joining the 20 cast-off sts together at the centre back.

Stitch down the 20 cast-on stitches at the waist on the inside.
Attach buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3{4} ozs Patons Quickerknit Baby (wool or bri-nylon).
Sample shown (larger size) used 4 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in navy blue.

A pair each Nos 8 and 10 (4mm and 3¼mm) needles.

Four gold coloured buttons (mine are inexpensive plastic buttons with anchor design).

AnchorButton.jpg

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles. You may need to use a smaller needle to get the right tension using the Baby Cashmerino.

Size matters

Chest 20{22} ins. Length, 9½{10½} ins. Sleeve seam, 6¾{} ins.

Abbreviations

C2F: "cable 2 front". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at front of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

C2B: "cable 2 back". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at back of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: (decrease) slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, or "ssk", slip, slip, knit.

yrn/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn forward.
Makes an extra stitch which forms a buttonhole when knitted on the next row.

 

A word on the wool.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days there are many yarn weight variations without rigid adherence to specific tension schemes, and so light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge for baby knitwear.
I used the No 8 needles as specified in the pattern, and produced a fairly loose fabric; I think the yarn is better suited to No 9 or 10 needles (3¾ mm - 3¼ mm).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WilliaminReefer1.jpg

WilliaminReefer2.jpg

RaglanReeferB&W.jpg

April 2009

Folk Cardigan for a little girl - or boy..

DucklingCardigan.jpg

Cute cardigan for a little girl with folk pattern of birds. Acceptable enough for a baby boy using a "masculine" colour (blue?!) and adapting the welts from their frilly form to a conventional rib.

Instructions:

The body of the cardigan is knitted in one piece. There are options for a plain welt as well as the frilled version - perhaps to better suit a boy.

Frilled welt:
Cast on 308 sts.

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P4, *m1, p5; repeat from *to end. [124 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 124 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

9th row: K31, place marker; k62, place marker; k31.

Duckling border:
Continue in stocking stitch.
Work the 15 rows from the chart, working left to right on the wrong side rows, and working right to left on the right side rows.

Starting with wrong side facing, set the 31 stitch pattern across the row as follows:
[Editor's note: Weave the unused colour in across the back as you knit. This tends to make the knitting rather tight so make sure you knit loosely - or - use needles one size larger while you knit these 15 rows.].

Row 1: *p1 in blue, p29 in white, p1 in blue*; p0; repeat from * to * twice; p0; repeat from * to *.

Row 15: as row 1.
Break contrast yarn.

Next row: (right side facing) Knit in main shade.
Next row: (wrong side facing) Purl in main shade.

Continue with main shade only stocking stitch until work measures 6 inches, including the frill, ending with a purl row and right side facing for next row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 22 rows in main shade after you have finished the pattern rows.]

Divide for fronts and back:
Next row: (right side facing) S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit 29st; turn. Continue on these 30 sts to make the right front, leaving remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Next row: Purl.
Next row: Knit
Next row: Purl.
Next row: S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Continue without shaping until armhole edge measures 5 inches, ending with a purl row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 40 rows for the armhole.]
Break yarn, leaving sts on a holder for grafting.

Left front:
With right side facing, slip 31sts from the holder for the left front on to a working needle, rejoin the yarn at the armhole edge, and knit 1 row. Leave the centre 62 sts on the holder to pick up later for the back.
Next row: (wrong side facing) P2tog, purl 29; turn.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl
Next row: Knit.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Complete to match the right front, ending with a knit row.

Back:
With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining 62 sts on the holder, and knit across all sts.

Work straight in stocking stitch until back matches fronts at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.

Next row: K21, cast off 20, k21.
Break yarn, leaving two lots of shoulder sts on a holder for grafting.

Join shoulders.
Graft front and back shoulder sts together.

Sleeves (both alike):
Cast on 83 sts, and work frilled welt as follows:

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P1, *m1, p3; repeat from *to last stitch, m1, p1. [39 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 39 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Now join in contrast and work 3 rows as follows.
9th row: K1 in main shade, k2 contrast; * k2 main shade; k2 contrast; repeat from * to end, (stringing the unused yarns as before across the back of the work). Break main shade yarn.
10th row: Purl across row in contrast.
11th row: Rejoin main shade and work as row 9. Break contrast yarn.
12th row: Purl across row in main shade.

Continuing in main shade only, increase one stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row, until there are 61sts. Work straight until sleeve is 8 inches long (including the frill), or to required length.

Cast off loosely, using one size larger needle.

Work second sleeve the same.

Button border:
With right side facing, using the No 9 (3½mm) circular needle as before, commencing at the right front above the frill, pick up and knit 29 sts evenly along straight edge, 29 sts evenly along shaped edge, 20 sts across back neck, then 29 sts evenly along shaped edge of left front, and finally 29 sts evenly along straight edge of left front, ending at top of frill. [136 stitches].

[Editor's note: My method for picking up sts evenly is to pick up 2 sts for every 3 row ends. I use a double pointed needle and slip it into all the alternate row ends - the ones that tend to stick out more as little bumps. Then using my working needle, I knit into 2 bumps from the dpn and then pick up an extra stitch in between the bumps.
The number of stitches you pick up will depend on how many rows you knitted in the body, so if it's not quite 136 it does not matter; you can still follow the instructions below provided you end up with an even number of stitches .]

Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.
Next row: Slip the first stitch; k1, p1, * k2tog; yarn over needle; p1; (k1, p1) 3 times repeat from * twice more, then k2tog; yarn over needle; p1, to make the 4th buttonhole.
Continue in rib as set to end of row.
Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Work one more row in rib, then cast off loosely in rib, using a larger size needle if required.

Making up:
Fold sleeves in half lengthwise, then sew into armholes placing fold at grafted shoulder seam. Join sleeve seams.
Sew in all ends.

Press lightly with a damp cloth.
Sew 4 buttons in position to match buttonholes.

Materials

3 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (125m per 50g ball), in main shade (colour shown Lavender 605).
1 ball contrast.

One circular No 9 (3½mm) needle.

Tension

24sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 9 (3½mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Insructions for 6-12 months size.
Actual chest 22 inches; full length 11 inches; sleeve 8 inches (adjustable).

A word on the wool

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is a lovely yarn, (55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere).
I like the weight of this wool, which is a fine double knitting. It combines the best of optimizing a quick-knit tension with a light weight result, as well as being durable.
Perfect for kids (and adults!).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

DucklingCardigan.jpg


March 2008

Easter Bunnies - slippers

BunnySlippers.jpg

A charming pattern from Alison for a pair of child's slippers, first knitted for her niece, Nancy.

©Alison Pate 2007

Instructions

Work two slippers the same as follows:

Sole and foot - Cast on 28 sts in white
Knit in stockinette for 4.5 inches ( this is the length of the foot from the back of the heel to start of toes)

At start of toes k1p1 rib for 2 inches

Next row: p2 tog across entire row (14 sts)
Next row: repeat: p2 tog across entire row (7 sts)

Draw thread through remaining stitches and secure, leaving a long thread. Sew up the edges of the ribbed section to form the toe. The seam is centred along the top of the foot and will be covered later by the head.

Heel - Pick up 10 stitches from middle of cast on row, leaving 18sts (9 on each side of the 10 you have picked up). You will pick up and incorporate these 18 sts as you work the back of the heel.

Work 15 rows on these 10 sts in stockinette as follows:

Row 1: K9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and knit it together with the last st of the row. Turn.
Row 2: P9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and purl it together with the last st of the row. Turn

Continue in this way for 12 rows in all.

Row 13: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, knitting the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 14: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, purling the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 15: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, and K2 tog repeated across the row.

Bind off remaining 6 stitches.

In sewing the toe centre seam, and working the heel you have pulled up the sides to form the slipper shape.

[Editor's note: If the 'cuff' of the slipper is loose you can work a row of single crochet around the edge of the slipper and pull in the shape a little. I used the pink for this.].

Head - knit 2 in white.

Cast on 10 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [20 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1.5 inches.
Next row: K2tog across the row [10 sts].
Bind off leaving long tail.

Using spare yarn, embroider a pink nose, and crescent shapes for closed eyes, using the picture as a guide.

Loosely stuff head and use long tail to sew around edge and pull in making a small flat ball.

Ears - knit 4 in white and 4 in pink

Cast on 2 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [4 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1 inch.
Next row: K2tog across the row [2 sts].
K2tog and bind off.

Sew a white to a pink ear using blanket stitch.

Finishing - Sew ears firmly to back of head at jaunty angle.
Sew head to slippers covering the seam on the toe section.

Tail - (optional) make 2 small pompoms and attach to heels of slipper.

Materials

Dishcloth cotton - white and pink (Lily Sugar n'Cream cotton.).
I used just over one ball of white and a scrap of pink.

1 pair 5mm needles. .

Tension

20 sts and 26 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles.

Size matters

Fits feet 7" long (age 4 or so).
To adjust the length - knit the plain stockinette section for longer.
To adjust for width cast on more stitches, make sure you increase the heel pick up stitches in proportion.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

© Christina Coutts 2007

Helpful Stuff

Babies and little people entries:

Other Categories

Pattern Archive

Yarn Links

Fabric etc

Stuff to do

  • Little rabbits
  • Bayerische sock
  • V&A 1940s Patterns
  • Darlek Toy
  • Cashmere Cowl
  • Monkey Socks
  • Necktie Bag
  • Posh Gloves
  • Criss-cross coasters
  • Yesterknits
    (free patterns)