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Category entries for Babies and little people

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PlainBabyLayette.jpg
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CoronationTwinset.jpg
PlainBabyLayette.jpg
SnowBaby.jpg
SnugToddlerGown.jpg
BunnySlipovers.jpg
SmockTops75.jpg
ChristmasMorningSoldiers1.jpg
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KnittedCover.jpg
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AndyPandyRomper.jpg
DucksOnParade.jpg
OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg
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KnittedBootees.jpg
EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg
HeirloomShawlC.jpg
NurserySlippers.jpg
Florence.jpg
BabyShawletteFront.jpg
IsobelsBlanket.jpg
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MuffetDress.jpg
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Entry Listings below or return to top for gallery view.

March 2024

Brer Rabbit

BrerRabbit.jpg

Another delightfully plain and practical pram set for a little one, including leggings, a jumper, and a jaunty beret!

Instructions

Jumper Back

Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib for 1½ inches ending with a wrong side row.

Change to size 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Continue until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from to , until 42 (44, 44, 46) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: k2, p2tog , k10 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following alternate row until 5 stitches remain.
Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge until 2 stitches remain, working the decreases at the outer armhole edge when they can no longer be worked inside the border of 2 stitches.

Work 1 row; k2tog, and fasten off.

Slip the centre 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in the yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches; knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog , k2.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Sleeves

Using size 12 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) stitches and work in k1/ p1 rib for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 52 (56, 60, 64) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 5½ (6, , 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a flat stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open. With the right side of the work facing and using size 12 needles, knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 12 stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches at the centre; pick up and knit 12 stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on top of the Right Sleeve, and the 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches on the back neck.
[76 (84, 84, 92) sts.]

Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ inch.
Cast off in rib.


Leggings - right leg

Using size 12 needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 4, * yfwd., k2tog, rib 2. Repeat from * to end.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Change to size 10 needles and work as follows.

Shape Back

1st row: knit 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: knit 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: purl to end.
5th row: knit 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: purl to end.
7th row: knit 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: purl to end.

★★ Continue in stocking stitch, working across all stitches for 28 (32, 32, 34) rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 5th row until there are 88 (92, 96, 100) stitches on the needle, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 2 rows. [92 (96, 100, 104) sts]

Commence Leg Shaping by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 66 (72, 76, 80) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row until 38 (38, 42, 42) stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 16½ (17¼, 17¾, 18½) inches at the longest (back) edge, ending with a purl row. ★★

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 31 (31, 34, 34) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k3, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 29).
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k2, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28).
5th row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 27).
6th row: purl.
Cast off.

Leggings - left leg

Work as for Right Leg from to .

Shape Back

1st row: purl 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: knit to end.
3rd row: purl 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: knit to end.
5th row: purl 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: knit to end.
7th row: purl 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: knit to end.

Commencing with a purl row, follow the instructions for the Right Leg from ★★ to ★★.

Shape Foot

Next row: knit 20 (20, 22, 22) stitches and turn.
Next row: purl 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches and turn.

Work on the centre 13 (13, 14, 14) stitches for 1¾ (2, 2, ) inches, ending with a purl row. Break off yarn and join it to the inner edge of the 7 (7, 8, 8) stitches already knitted, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the first side of the instep; knit across the 13 (13, 14, 14) toe stitches, and then pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17) stitches along the other side of the instep; then knit the remaining 18 (18, 20, 20) stitches.
[ 64 (68, 72, 76) sts]

Commencing with a purl row, work 7 rows in stocking stitch.

1st row: k24 (26, 27, 29); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k27 (29, 30, 32), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k3.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k23 (25, 26, 28); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k.25 (27, 28, 30), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2) k2tog, k2.
5th row: k22 (24, 25, 27); sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k23 (25, 26, 28), sl1, k1, psso, k1 (1, 2, 2), k2tog, k1.
6th row: purl.
Cast off.


Beret

Using size 12 needles, cast on 132 (132, 136, 136) stitches and work 9 rows in k1/p1 rib.

Next row (increase row): rib 7 (7, 9, 9). * work twice into the next stitch, rib 2; repeat from * to the last 8 (8, 10, 10) stitches; work twice into the next stitch, rib 7 (7, 9, 9).
[172 (172, 176, 176) sts]

Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Work 20 (20, 24, 24) rows.

Shape Crown
1st decrease row: k8 (8, 6, 6), * k2tog, k9 (9, 7, 7); repeat from * to last 10 (10, 8, 8) stitches; k2tog, k8 (8, 6, 6).
[157 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
2nd decrease row: * k9; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[131 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
3rd decrease row: * k7; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[105 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
4th decrease row: * k5; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[79 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
5th decrease row: * k3; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[53 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.
6th decrease row: * k1; k3tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[27 sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Next row: k3tog all along the row. [9 sts]

Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

To Make Up

Jumper
Sew in zip to left back raglan seam, then join the remainder of the seam.
Using a back stitch, join side and sleeve seams.

Leggings
Using a back stitch, join the back, front, leg and foot seams.
Thread elastic through eyelet holes at the waist.

Beret
Using a flat stitch, join the seam.
Sew a pompon to the top of the crown.
To make a pompon, cut wool into 3 inch lengths; tie securely in the centre; fluff out and trim to shape.

Materials

4 ply yarn 25g balls:
Jumper: 3 (3, 4, 5)
Leggings: 4 (4, 5, 5)
Beret: 2 (2, 2, 2)

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

4 inch zip fastener for jumper
Elastic for leggings waist

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
19 (20, 21, 22) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: work two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")
stocking stitch: alternate Rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a superwash wool. It appeared as 1 oz balls, then as per this pattern in 25g balls, and finally in 50g balls.

Possible yardage based on the 50g ball information is 93 yards (85 metres) to 25g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

December 2023

Well wrapped up

WellWrapped.jpg

This is a pleasing and relatively simple set for a child, with a sweater and hat worked in a two-colour fair-isle pattern. To match, we have a plain coloured pair of mittens, and a simple pair of trousers - all in double knitting weight yarn.

Instructions

Sweater Back and Front alike:

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MC, cast on 85 stitches.
Work 11 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).

Work 10 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row. *
Change to No 9 needles, join in C, and work the pattern from the chart. Work the odd rows as knit, reading the chart from right to left, and repeating the 12 stitches before the dotted line to the last stitch, then k1 stitch beyond the dotted line. Work the even rows as purl, reading the chart from left to right, purling the first stitch (before dotted line), and then repeating the 12 stitches beyond dotted line to end.

WellWrappedChart.jpg

Continue until 3 complete patterns have been worked (or until work measures 16 inches from hemline), ending with a purl row.
Break off C.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch with MC.

Shoulder Shaping: Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Purl 1 row (hemline). Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row. Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 49 stitches.
Work as back to *.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for the back, increase 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there
are 61 stitches
Continue until the 26th row of the 2nd pattern has been worked (or until the sleeve measures 10 inches from the hemline).
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Trousers Right Leg:

Beginning at the ankle, with No 10 needles, and MC cast on 76 stitches. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch knit 1 row (hemline).
Change to No 9 needles and continue in stocking stitch until leg
measures 15 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row.
Continue straight, increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every alternate row until there are 88 stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Mark each end of last row for the top of the leg.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until 68 stitches remain. Continue until work measures 24½ inches from hemline *, ending with a knit row. **

Shape back by working short rows thus:
Purl 12; turn, knit to end.
Purl 24; turn, knit to end.
Purl 36; turn, knit to end.
Purl 48; turn, knit to end.
Next row: Purl across all stitches.

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Trousers Left Leg:

Work as right leg to *, ending with a purl row.
Complete as right leg from ** but working knit instead of purl, and purl
instead of knit.

Hat:

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 97 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row p1.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back of sweater until one complete pattern from the chart has been worked (or until work measures 5½ inches), ending with a purl row.
Break off C and continue with MC only.

Work 6 rows in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of 1st row. [96 sts].

Shape top thus:
Next row: (k2tog, k6); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k5); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog, k4); repeat to end.
Purl 1 row.

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 24 stitches remain. Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k2tog); repeat to end. [12 sts]
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Mitts (make 2 alike):

With No 10 needles and MC cast on 39 stitches.
Work 2 inches rib as beginning of hat.
Change to No 9 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch.
Shape Thumb thus:
Next row: k19, pick up loop that lies before next stitch and knit it through back loop (referred to as make 1), k1, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k19, m1, k3, m1, k19.
Purl 1 row.
Continue to increase in this way, working 2 stitches more between the increases on every alternate row until there are 51 stitches
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k32; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Next row: p14; turn and cast on 1 stitch.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch on these 15 stitches
Next row: (k2tog, k 1) 5 times.
Next row: (p2tog) 5 times.
Break off wool, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and
fasten off securely.
Join thumb seam.

With right side facing and 32 stitches on right hand needle, rejoin yarn at the base of the thumb; pick up and knit 2 stitches at the base of thumb, knit the 6 stitches to the end of the row end. [40 sts].
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch on these stitches, ending with a purl row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k14, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: (k1, k2tog, k12, k2togtbl, k1) twice.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: ( k2tog) across row to end.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press or block work.

Sweater: Join shoulder and neck facing seams.
Sew top of sleeves to sides, beginning and ending 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn in hems and catch-stitch in place.

Trousers: Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up hems and catch-stitch in place.
Join elastic in ring and attach to wrong side of waist with herringbone casing.

Hat: Join seam.
Make pompon and sew on top.

Mitts: Join seam.

Materials

Worked in a standard double knitting yarn (swatch as per tension given).

Sweater:
6 oz main colour, and 4 oz contrast.

Hat:
2 oz main colour, and 1 oz contrast.

Trousers:
9 oz main colour.

Mitts:
2 oz main colour.

Pair each of No 9 (3¾mm), and
No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Waist length of elastic.

Tension

26sts to 4 inches over fair-isle, 24sts over stocking stitch on 3¾mm needles.

Size matters

Sweater:
To fit 24 inch chest; length 16½ inches; sleeve: 10 inches.

Trousers:
Width around widest part 26 inches;
leg length 16½ inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch
p2tog: purl two stitches together to decrease one stitch
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

MC = main colour
C = contrast

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2023

Coronation Twinset

CoronationTwinset.jpg

Just to mark the occasion, for a child (from 3-4 years apparently): a cute little twin set with royal processional motifs.
Even if you don't make this twinset for the event, it has some cute military motifs, which cleverly catch the essence of the servicemen depicted despite the simplicity of the design.

This pattern was created to mark the Queen's coronation in 1953 and depicts the historic Gold State Coach; the latter will also be used by King Charles - but only for the somewhat shorter procession back to the Palace after his Coronation on May 6th. For the outward journey, the more modern and altogether more comfortable Diamond Jubilee Coach will be used.

Instructions:

Motifs may be worked in Fair Isle or embroidered when garment is completed.
When working Fair Isle use separate balls of the contrasting colours for each motif. Always twist the wools round each other when changing colour to avoid leaving a hole.
Knitters may find it easier to ensure a tight edge by knitting the first and last stitches on every purl row.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a full version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

THE JUMPER

Jumper Front

Using No 13 needles and gold (L) wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and white (W) wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 2 rows in white (W).
In the next row commence motif working the 43 rows from chart 1.

Work 1 row in white (W).
Join in gold (L).
**
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 7L, 1W.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
**
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
In the next row commence the motif working the first 14 rows from chart 2.

Shape the Armholes

Continuing to work from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work straight until the 39 rows of chart 2 are completed.
Work 4 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L.
*** Continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: * 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 4W, 1L 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * to the last 9 stitches, 3W, 3L, 3W.
***
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck
Next row: Knit 32, cast off 17, knit to end.

Now work on and finish each side separately:
Work 1 row.
Keeping arm edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then every alternate row until there are 27 stitches left, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Still decreasing 1 stitch on every alternate row at the neck edge, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are eliminated.

Rejoin the wool to the other side at the neck edge and complete to match the 1st side.

Jumper Back

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 106 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Work 46 rows.
Join in L.
Now work as Front from ** to **.
Cut L.
Work 17 rows in W.
Continue in W.

Shape the Armholes:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every knit row 6 times.
Work 16 rows in W.
Join in L.
Now work as for Front from *** to ***.
Cut L, and continue in W.
Work 12 rows.

Shape the Shoulders:
Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of every row until there are 33 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool, cast on 60 stitches.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Next row (increase row): Rib 4, * increase once in the next stitch, rib 3, repeat from * to end. [74 sts].
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.

Work until sleeve measures 2½ inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 54 stitches left, then 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 34 stitches left, and then 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 22 stitches left.
Cast off.

Jumper Neck Band

Join the right shoulder seam.
Using No 13 needles, with right side of work facing you, and using L wool, knit up 80 stitches round the neck.
Work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Making up the jumper

Press or block each piece separately with a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the collar and cuff of the Queens' robe in white, and the horses' reins in black.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side and sleeve seams.
Sew left shoulder seam for 1¼ inches from arm edge.
Set in sleeves.
With L wool work 2 rows of double crochet, (US: single crochet), along shoulder opening making, 3 small button loops on the front edge.
Sew on buttons to match.
Press seams.


THE CARDIGAN

Instructions have been given for a boys' cardigan.
If a girls' cardigan is required, the work buttonholes in the right front instead of the left front.

Cardigan Back

Work as for back of jumper.

Cardigan Right Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib to the last 14 stitches, put these 14 stitches on a safety pin for the front band.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) and W. wool.

Commence 1st panel:
Work 4 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the 36 rows from chart No. 3.

Work 6 rows in W.
Join in L.
Continue as follows:
1st row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L.

Commence 2nd panel:
Work 3 rows in W.
1n the next row start working the motif following the first 15 rows from chart No 4.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 35 rows of the motif are complete.
Work 8 rows in W, ending with a knit row.

Join in L and continue as follows:
1st row: 2W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
2nd row: 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
3rd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L.
4th row: 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L.
5th row: 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L.
6th row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, .3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W.
7th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
8th row: 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W.
9th row: 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W.
Cut L.
Continue in W, and work 2 rows.

Shape the Neck:
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches, work to end.
Work 1 row.
Now keeping armhole edge straight, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next row, and then on every alternate row until there are 27 stitches remaining, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape the Shoulder:
Continue to decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge, and at the same time, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of next and
alternate rows at the shoulder edge until all stitches are cast off.

Cardigan Left Front

With No 13 needles and L. wool cast on 62 stitches.
Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ of an inch.
In the next 2 rows make buttonholes as follows:
Next row: Rib 6, cast off 2, rib to end.
In the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off on the preceding row.

Continue in rib, making one more buttonhole 1½ inches from the 1st until work measures 3 inches from cast on edge ending at centre-front edge.
Next row: Rib 14 stitches and place on safety pin for the front band, rib to end.
Change to No 12 needles and work in stocking stitch using W wool.

Commence 1st panel.
Work 4 rows in W.
In the next row commence motif working the 36 rows from chart 5.
Work 6 rows in W.

Join in L, and continue as follows :
1st row: * 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W,
1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, repeat from * once more.
2nd row: * 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 1W; repeat from * once more.
3rd row: * 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, repeat from * once more.
4th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L; repeat from * once more.
5th row: * 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L; repeat from * once more.
6th row: * 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W; repeat from * once more.

7th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
8th row: * 7W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 4W; repeat from * once more.
9th row: * 3W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 6W; repeat from * once more.
Cut L
Commence 2nd panel.
Work 3 rows in W
In the next row start working the motif, working the first 14 rows from chart 6.

Shape the Armhole:
Still working from the chart, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and then decrease 1 stitch on every alternate row 6 times.
Work straight until the 36 rows of the motif are complete.

Work 7 rows in W ending with a knit row.
Join in L
Continue as follows:
1st row: 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 2W.
2nd row: 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 2W, 7L, 2W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 4W, 1L, 1W.
3rd row: 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 3L, 1W, 7L, 1W, 3L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W.
4th row: 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 5L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W.
5th row: 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 3L, 1W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 2W, 1L, 1W.
6th row: 2W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 1W, 1L, 3W, 1L, 1W.
7th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
8th row: 4W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 11W, 1L, 7W.
9th row: 6W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 9W, 3L, 3W.
Cut L.

Continue in W
Work 1 row.
Shape neck and complete to match the Right Front.

Cardigan Borders

Left front border:
Rejoin L wool to the stitches left on safety pin and using No 13 needles work in rib making 6 more buttonholes at 1½ inch intervals. Work a further ½ inch after the last buttonhole has been worked.
Cast off.
Work the right front border the same way omitting buttonholes.

[Editor's note: In case of tension variations, you may wish to make the plain border first - which will be the right border for a boy and the left border for a girl - so you can see how many rows you need to fit nicely up the front; you can then work out how best to place the buttonholes evenly up the other side.]

The Collar

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 137 stitches.
1st row: * k1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.
5th row: k1, p1, k2tog, rib to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, p1, k1.
Repeat, this decrease on every 4th row until there are
123 stitches left.
Work 3 rows.
Cast off in rib.

Cardigan Sleeves (both alike)

Using No 13 needles and L wool cast on 50 stitches.
Work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and W wool.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 74 stitches.
Work without further shaping until sleeve measures 10 inches from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.

Shape top as for jumper sleeve instructions.

Making up the cardigan

Press each piece separately with a warm iron and damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.
Embroider the horses reins in black, and the sailors collar and hat band in white as shown on the diagram.
Darn in all ends of wool.
Sew side, shoulder and sleeve seams.
Set in sleeves. Sew borders to fronts.
Sew cast off edge of collar round neck edge starting and finishing at centre front edges.
Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:

Jumper:
2oz White (W)
1oz Linga Gold (L)
Oddments in Scarlet, Black, Pink, and Light Grey.

Cardigan:
3oz white
2oz gold
Oddments in scarlet, black, pink, royal blue, yellow, and tan.
8 buttons.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.
1 "medium" crochet hook.

Tension

36sts and 48 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

Instructions for 3-4 years.
Chest 23 inches; length 13 inches; sleeve seam: 2¾ inches (jumper) or 10 inches (cardigan).

A word on the wool

Susan Crawford, who specialises in vintage knits, offers lovely Fenella wool which "knits up to that elusive vintage ‘3 ply’ tension".

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

John Arbon has some wonderful laceweight that looks suitable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

January 2023

Plain Jane (or John) Layette

PlainBabyLayette.jpg

Delightfully plain and simple outfit for a new baby. Cardigans are (I am told) the most useful for small babies - trousers optional - and the bootees - well, they are always just impossibly cute aren't they? (even if they rarely stay attached to the baby!).

Instructions.

The cardigan is worked as one piece, starting with the two front, pieces worked separately, then joining them to complete the lower back

Cardigan left front:

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 34 stitches and knit 2 rows.

Shape front hem, by working short rows as given below, noting that after the first 8 rows in garter stitch (every row knitted), you start to work in stocking stitch (right-side rows knitted, wrong-side rows in purl) on the first 27 stitches, and keep the last 7 front edge stitches (the curved edge) in garter stitch to form the front band

Next row: k26. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k27. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k29. Turn, knit back to end.
[Editors note: this is where you start to work the stocking stitch section, keeping the front band in garter stitch.]

Next row: k30. Turn, work back to end.
Next row: k32. Turn, work back to end.
Next row: k34. Turn, work back to end.

Continue straight, with the 7 front edge stitches in garter stitch and the 27 side edge stitches in stocking stitch, until work measures 4¾ inches from the start of the stocking stitch, (about 46 rows), ending with a wrong side row.
Cast on 34 stitches at the side edge to create the left sleeve. [68 sts].
Now continue, but working 7 stitches in garter stitch at both edges...
[Editors note:this makes a garter stitch cuff at the sleeve end, and continues the front band.]
...until work measures 6¼ inches from the start of the stocking stitch, (about 62 rows), ending with a right side row.

Shape neck, by casting off stitches at the front edge as follows:

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 7 stitches at the front edge, work to end of row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. [54 sts]

Continue straight, as set, keeping the sleeve cuff in garter stitch, until work measures 7¾ inches (about 76 rows), ending with right side facing for the next row.
Break yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

Cardigan right front:

Work as for the left front, reversing all shapings, and placing 3 buttonholes at the front edge on the 4th, 30th, and 56th row of the stocking stitch.
[Editors note:they rather leave you to your own devices here with the buttonholes. I suggest creating eyelets in the garter stitch band, by knitting 3 stitches in from the edge, yarn over, k2tog, k2. You could choose to put the buttonholes on either the right or left front.]

When you have completed the 76 rows on the right front, join the two fronts together to knit the back:

Cardigan back

Next (joining) row (right side facing): knit 54 stitches from the left front; cast on 22 stitches for the back neck; knit 54 stitches from the right front. [130 sts].

Continue straight for 31 rows, keeping the 7 stitches at each end in garter stitch, for the two sleeve cuffs.

Cast off 34 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [62 sts].
Continue in stocking stitch for 46 rows (no garter stitch borders), then finish with 8 rows of garter stitch.
Cast off all stitches.

Collar

Using No 11 needles, cast on 11 stitches and knit 2 rows.

Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.

Shape collar:

Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Knit 8 rows across all 11 stitches.
Repeat the last 12 rows, 12 times more.

Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Knit 2 rows across all 11 stitches.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.

Cast off.

Making up the cardigan

Join side and sleeve seams.
Attach Collar to right side of cardigan using back stitch.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

4ply fingering yarn in 50g balls:
Cardigan: 2 balls.
Trousers: 1 ball.
Bootees: 1 ball

Nos 11 (3mm) needles.
3 buttons.
Elastic for trouser waistband.

Tension

28sts x 32 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit one size up to 3 months.
Chest: 18 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward" / "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1: slip one stitch.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a synthetic mix of acrylic and rayon (which gave it a ply of a silky thread), and a small percentage of wool.
Approximately 160m per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


Trousers Front

* Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 27 stitches, and work in garter stitch for 8 rows.
Then work 8 rows in stocking stitch, * and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

Make a second leg by repeating these instructions from * to *.

Then join the two legs by knitting across these 27 stitches from the second leg, cast on 8 stitches, and knit across the 27 stitches from the first leg. [62 sts]
**

Work straight on these 62 stitches in stocking stitch for 5½ inches ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: knit.
[Editors note:this makes a ridge to mark the fold line for creating the channel at the waist for the elastic.]

Starting with a knit row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch as before.
Cast off.

Trousers Back

Work as for Front from * to **.
Work straight in stocking stitch on these stitches for 5 inches ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by working as follows:

Next row: Work to the last 3 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 3 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 9 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 9 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 12 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 12 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 15 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 15 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 18 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 18 stitches. Turn.

Work 3 rows across all 62 stitches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: knit.
Starting with a knit row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Making up the trousers

Join side and leg seams.
Fold down the top of front and back to the wrong side, and slipstitch the hem in place
Insert the elastic.


Bootees

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 38 stitches, and work for 8 rows in garter stitch.
Then work 16 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: k2, * k2tog, yon; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: k24. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: p10. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 10 stitches for a further 16 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.
Break yarn and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn and knit 14 stitches from spare needle; knit up 12 stitches along the side of the rows just worked; knit across 10 stitches from spare needle; knit 12 stitches down the other side of the rows just worked; knit across 14 stitches from spare needle. [62 sts]

Work 8 rows in garter stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.
Break yarn.

Shape Sole:

Slip the first 26 stitches on to the right hand needle (or "working" needle if you are left handed), and rejoin yarn to work the centre 10 sole stitches; knit 9, k2tog, turn.
Next row: k9, k2tog, turn.
Repeat the last row, gradually decreasing stitches either side of the centre sole until 22 stitches remain.

Cast off.

Finishing:

Join back seam, and join sole at the back.

Make a cord by cast on 100 stitches; knit one row, then cast off.
Thread cord through eyelet holes in bootee.

Make a second bootee in the same way.

December 2022

Snow Baby

SnowBaby.jpg

Adorable winter coatigan and bonnet set for a child.

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets.

COAT

The body of the coat is made in one piece beginning at the bottom edge.

With larger size needles and white colour, cast on 186 (204) stitches, and, using the blue colour, work in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.
Now divide the piece to work the Back and Fronts separately from the armholes by placing 46 (50) stitches at each side on holders.

Coat Back

Continue on the centre 94 (104)stitches for the Back only.

Shape armholes by decreasing: for size 1: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row once, then the following 4th row once, then the following alternate row once, and finally the following 4th row once).
Place the remaining 86 (96) stitches on a holder.

Coat - Right Front:

With right side facing, pick up 46 (50) stitches for the on the right and shape the armhole.
Beginning at the armhole edge, for size 1: decrease 1 stitch on the next and every alternate row, 4 times, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch on the next row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following alternate row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once).
At the same time shape the neck edge beginning at 1st (5th) - knit - row, by leaving the last 22 (26) stitches unworked, turning and purling back, and then in the same way, leaving the last 5 stitches unworked on every alternate row 4 times.

Leave all 42 (46) stitches remaining on a holder.

Coat - Left Front:

Work the left front the same as the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (make 2):

With smaller size needles and blue colour, cast on 38 stitches and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to larger size needles, and work in stocking stitch, increasing 8 (10) stitches evenly spaced across the first row. [46 (48) sts]
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 8 times. [62 (64) sts]

Continue without shaping until work measures 6¾ () inches.
Shape top by decreasing for size 1: 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row, 1 stitch at each end of the following alternate row, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row).
Leave the remaining 54 (56) stitches on a stitch holder.

Yoke:

With larger size needles in blue colour, pick up the 278 (300) stitches from the holders: 42 (46) stitches from the right front, 54 (56) stitches from the right sleeve, 86 (96) stitches from the back, 54 (56) stitches from the left sleeve, and finally, 42 (46) stitches from the left front.

With right side facing, work 2 rows in stocking stitch decreasing 8 stitches at the armholes on the first row as follows:
Next row (decrease): k40 (44), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k82 (92), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k40 (44).
[270 (292) sts]
Next row: purl.

The next row decreases a number of stitches evenly across each section of the yoke - work the two sizes as follows:

SIZE 1 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 5 times, k1;
k1, (k3, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, k2tog, (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k3) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1) 5 times. [189 sts]

Next row: purl.

SIZE 2 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog) 15 times;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
k2tog, k2tog, (k1, k2tog) 29 times, k3tog;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
(k2tog, k1) 15 times.
[219 sts]

Next row: purl.

Now work the pattern sections in stocking stitch from the charts, with decreasing on plain rows in between as follows; note carefully that decrease rows are written separately for each of the two sizes:

Both sizes: work row 1-4 rows from chart 1 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k6, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 26 times, k1. [163 sts]
Next row 6: Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 22 times. [141 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k8, * k2tog, k6, repeat from * 26 times, k3. [193 sts]
Next row 6 : Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k1, * k2tog, k8, repeat from * 19 times, k2tog. [173 sts]

Both sizes: work 7 rows from chart 2 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k10, * k2tog, k3, repeat from * 25 times, k6. [116 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 27 times, k4. [146 sts]

Both sizes: work 2 rows from chart 3 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p2, * p2tog, p3, repeat from * 22 times, p2tog, p2. [93 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p10, * p2tog, p2, repeat from * 19 times, p7. [74 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p6, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 23 times, p2. [123 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p1, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 20 times, p2tog. [102 sts]

Both sizes: work 6 rows from chart 4 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 12 times, k2tog. [61 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k2, * k2tog, k2, repeat from * 25 times. [77 sts]

Both sizes: work 4 rows from chart 5 starting with a purl row.

Both sizes: purl 1 row in blue, decreasing one stitch at the centre of the work. [60 (76) sts]

Place the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Coat border:

Remove the strand of white at the bottom of the work, picking up the stitches as you go.
With the circular needle and blue colour, pick up and knit 436 (506) stitches around the edge of the coat, as follows:
60 (76) stitches around neck,
91 (109) stitches from each front,
186 (204) stitches from bottom edge.
Commence working in the round, increasing 2 stitches at the corners between each section.

Work 4 rounds of stocking stitch (every round knitted) and on the 2nd round on right front edge, make 3 buttonholes 2 stitches wide: cast off 2 stitches, then on the third round, cast on 2 stitches over the spaces.
Place the first buttonhole in line with the last row of Chart 1, of the yoke; space the others 8 stitches apart.

On the 5th round, work 1 round of eyelets:
5th round: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Work a further round, then make 3 buttonholes at same places as first 3 buttonholes. Work a further 2 rounds then cast off all stitches.

Finishing the coat:

Sew armhole and sleeve seams.
Fold border in half all around the coat and sew in place.
Sew around buttonholes.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:

Coat: 3 (4) x 50g balls in blue colour plus 1 ball in white.

Bonnet: 1 ball in each colour.

One pair each of 3mm and 3½mm (or 3¾mm) needles.

3½mm (or 3¾mm) circular needle.

Tension

23sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

1 / 2 years
[25 / 26 inch chest]

Abbreviations:

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together
p2tog: decrease by purling 2 stitches together
yo: yarn over needle to make an extra stitch (creates a decorative hole)

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting with 50/50 wool/acrylic mix and approximately 125m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


BONNET

With larger size needles and blue colour, cast on 89 stitches.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.

On the 5th row, work eyelets:
5th row: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches; k2. [90 sts]
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 1¼ inches, begin the fair-isle pattern following the 35 rows on the chart given at the end.

Then shape the back of the hat by casting off 30 stitches at each edge of next row. You now have 29 stitches.
[Editor's note: If I were knitting this I would cast off 30 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows and then continue on the centre 29 stitches only; this avoids having to break and rejoin the blue colour.]

Continue on the centre 29 stitches in blue colour, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 6 times.
Cast off the remaining 17 stitches.

Finishing the bonnet:

Fold the border along the row of eyelets to form the picot edge, and sew a hem.
Fold the T shaped knitting into a bonnet shape and sew the two back seams, so that the plain centre section forms the back of the head, and the picot edge frames the face.
With smaller size needles and blue colour, pick up and knit 64 stitches all around the bottom edge of the bonnet.

To make the chin strap, cast on 25 stitches (left side of work, right side of bonnet), and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. On the 2nd make 1 buttonhole 2 stitches wide, as on the coat, placing it 4 stitches from the end of the strap.
On the 5th row, cast off all stitches.
Sew a button on the other (left) side of the bonnet to attach the chin strap.

Bonnet Chart

November 2021

Snug Gown for Bedtime

SnugToddlerGown.jpg

The cutest hooded gown made in a soft chunky yarn - perfect for bedtime, (or other occasions, as it is described as a "coat"). The lower section has a design of kittens - and there is a cute toy cat to match.

Instructions

The pattern is given in 3 sizes: 12 (18 : 24) months. Where only one set of instructions is given it applies to all sizes.
The body of the gown is worked as one piece up to the armholes.

Sleeves

With 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 22 (24 : 26) stitches and work 3 (3 : 4) cm in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Work 1 row in purl increasing 7 stitches evenly across the row.
[29 (31 : 33) sts].

Now change to 6mm needles and stocking stitch following the Fair Isle colour pattern in the chart for the sleeve:

For the first size, begin with 1 stitch in black (B) then 1 in main shade (M); for the second size, begin with 1M, 1B, 1M; for the third size, begin with 4M, 1B, 1M, 1B, 1M.
Then follow the 16 stitch repeat shown in the chart.
At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 7th (8th : 10th) row 3 times, taking the stitches into the pattern.
[35 (37 : 39) sts].
Then work 3 (4 : 6) more rows, and then place a stitch marker or piece of coloured thread at each end of the row.

Continue in stocking stitch: for the smallest size, work the last 3 rows of the chart, then purl one row in main shade; for the second and third sizes work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Then for all sizes, change to 5mm needles and finish by working 4 rows in garter stitch.

Leave the stitches on a stitch holder or spare needle and work a second sleeve in the same way.

Body (knitted as a single piece)

Using size 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 113 (121 : 129) stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch.

Change to 6mm needles and work 2 (2 : 6) rows in stocking stitch.

Continue stocking stitch and follow the Fair-Isle pattern working from the charts.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 1, commencing with 1M, 1B, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, as indicated.

Now work the 19 rows of the cat pattern from Chart 2, 4 times across the row, placing 3 (5 : 7) stitches between each group, and working 2 (3 : 4) stitches in main shade before the first and after the last group.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 3, commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.
Next, work 10 (17 : 17) rows of Chart 4, commencing 1M, 1B, 5M, then repeating the 16 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, 5M, 1B, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 2 rows as in Chart 3, as before, (commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated).

Work 3 (2 : 2) rows in stocking stitch, and (wrong side facing) work 4 rows in garter stitch.

At this point you have completed 58 (64 : 68) rows and your work should measure 32 (35 : 38) cm.

Now you must divide the work and continue knitting the back and fronts separately.

Change to 5mm needles and work in k1/p1 rib as follows, casting off some stitches for the armholes, as well as decreasing across the row.

Next (right side facing, decrease) row: k2, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1; place these 23 (25, 27 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 23 (25, 27) stitches will form the right front.]

...and continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, k1; place these 47 (51, 55 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 47 (51, 55) stitches will form the back.]

And continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1.
[Editor's note: You are now going to continue to work on this last section of 23 (25, 27) stitches to complete the left front
.]

Upper Left Front

Next row (wrong side facing): p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With right side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Right Front

Rejoin yarn to the right front section at the front edge.

Next row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Back section

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches in the centre.
Next row (wrong side facing)
: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [47 (51 : 55) sts]

Work a further 26 (28 : 30) rows in k1/p1 rib.

Now shape shoulders and back neck by casting off 5 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib 15 (17 : 19) (including the stitch already on the needle), cast off 7 stitches, and rib to end.
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn, and work each side of the next separately.
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn.
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the right side of the Back neck.

Rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches at the neck edge and, right side facing, rib one row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the left side of the Back neck.

Button Band

Using 5mm needles, cast on 65 (71 : 77) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 5 rows, keeping the 2 stitches at each end of the row in stocking stitch - like this:

Next row: k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

And so on for 5 rows in all.

Purl one row, then knit 3 rows in stocking stitch using waste yarn of a different colour. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or holder.

Make a second (right hand) band in the same way, adding 3 button holes on the 4th row:

4th row: k2, p1, k1, cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib to end.
5th row: p2, then continue in rib as set, casting on 2 stitches over the 3 buttonholes where you cast off on previous row.
6th row: purl.

Complete with 3 rows of waste yarn as before.

Hood

Using 5mm needles, cast on 69 (73 : 75) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 8 rows.

Change to 6mm needles and work 11 (13 : 15) rows in stocking stitch.
With wrong side facing, cast off 6 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
[15 (17 : 19) sts]

Wrong side facing, continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 3 times. [21 (23 : 25) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.

Right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th (6th : 5th) row 3 (3 : 4) times. [15 (17 : 17) sts]
Work 9 (9 : 7) rows straight.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Sew shoulder and sleeve seams up to the coloured markers.
Fit the sleeves to the armholes, grafting the live stitches to the armhole edge, and sewing the sections of the sleeve seam left free to the stitches cast off at the armholes of the body.
[Editor's note: If grafting the stitches makes no sense to you, you can just cast these stitches off in the normal way and then sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole edge - and then sew the marked section of sleeve seam to the cast-off stitches of the body as instructed.
]

Sew the button band, stitch by stitch, to the right side of the work using back stitch, (undo the rows of waste yarn).

Sew up the sides of the hood. Fold the front edge in half inwards and sew round like a hem to make a channel to thread the cord through.
Sew the hood to the neck, making sure you leave the hem open at the ends.
Make a 150cm twisted cord and 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the hem of the hood. Attach the pompoms at each end.
Lightly iron the seams.

Finish the buttonholes with embroidery if desired, and sew on buttons.

Materials

Chunky or Bulky weight yarn in 50g approx 45m balls (see notes below):
7 (8 : 9) balls main pale blue shade (M) "Forget-Me-Not".
2 balls in dark blue/black (B) "Sloe".
2 balls in grey (G) "Mouse".
1 ball in Ecru. (E)

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

3 buttons..

Tension

13 sts and 18 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Chest size:
20 (22 : 24) inches,
52 (56 : 60) cm;

length from top of shoulders:
18 (19½ : 21) ins,
46 (50 : 54) cm;

sleeve seam:
7½ ( : 10) ins,
19 (21 : 25½) cm.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
garter stitch: knit every row.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original was knitted in a soft brushed chunky wool blend. Available information suggests it was sold in 50g balls with a yardage of about 45 metres per ball.

Be very careful in your choice of yarn and quantities when substituting though, as "big wool" can lead to big miscalculations - and needless to say - knit a swatch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Mittens

This is a pattern for a very simple little pair of mittens in matching colours. The mittens are attached to a cord which is threaded through the armholes of a coat so that they can hang free at the ends of the sleeves if removed (and thus don't get lost).

With 5mm needles and dark contrast colour (B), cast on 18 (18 : 20) stitches and work 3 cm in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 6mm needles and work 12 (12 : 14) rows in stocking stitch. Then work as follows:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, k1.
[14 (14 : 16) sts]
Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing, and thread it through the stitch and pull up.


To make up the mittens: sew up the sides.
In colour B, make a 130cm twisted cord and in main shade (M), make 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the sleeves of the coat - if you are making them to go with the pattern above, you can attach the cord to the neck - so it stays permanently in place. Attach the mittens at each end and attach a pompom to each mitten,

CatSleeveDiagram.jpg

CatBodyDiagram.jpg

CatHoodDiagram.jpg

April 2020

Bunny Slipovers

BunnySlipovers.jpg

Sweet little sleeveless jumpers for toddlers with Easter bunny motifs.

Instructions.

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Twist the yarns on wrong side of the work when changing colour to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

**
With No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 76 [84, 90] stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 [7, 10] (m1, rib 10) 7 times, m1, rib 3 [7, 10]:
84 [92, 98] sts.

Change to No 11 needles and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking-stitch until back measures 1½ [2, 2] inches, ending with right side facing.

Change to No 10 needles and joining in contrast colour (C) as required, work rows 1-20 inclusive from chart A [B, A]

.

Work the first 0 [1, 1] stitch on knit rows and last 0 [1, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated, repeating the 12 [13, 12] pattern stitches 7 [7, 8] times across - and the last 0 [0, 1] stitch on knit rows, and first 0 [0, 1] stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Break C.
[Editor's note: The charts are fairly easy to read but these instructions may make them seem more complicated than they are.
If this helps at all - rather than making it worse:
On the first size using chart A you just repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work with no extra stitches at either end (12 x 7 = 84).
On the third size chart A also, you repeat the 12 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at either end to make up the 98 stitches (12 x 8 = 96 plus 2).
On the second size chart B, you repeat the 13 stitch pattern across the work but you have one extra stitch at one end to make up the 92 stiches (13 x 7 = 91 plus 1).]

Change to No 11 needles and continue in M and stocking stitch until back measures 4½ [5, ]inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 54 [58, 64] stitches remain. Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 48 [52, 56] stitches remain. **

Continue straight until back measures 9 [10, 11] inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4 [5, 6] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Leave the remaining 30 [32, 34] stitches on a spare needle.

Front

Work as for Back from ** to ** .
Work 3 rows straight.

Shape neck as follows:

Knit 18 [19, 20], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 9 [10, 11] stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 12 [14, 16] stitches on a spare needle, rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and knit to end.

Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Making Up

Using a cool iron and a damp cloth for Baby Wool, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, start at the top of the left shoulder and work as follows:
Pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches down left side of neck, k12 [14, 16] from centre, pick up and knit 27 [29, 31] stitches up right side, then knit 30 [32, 34] from back :
96 [104, 112] sts.

Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Join left shoulder seam, then join neckband with a flat seam

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 13 needles and M, pick up and knit 86 [94, 102] stitches round each armhole and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.

Cast off evenly in rib.
Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

Baby 3 ply 25g balls: 2 in main colour and 1 contrast colour (all sizes).

Pair each No 13 (2¼mm), No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 40 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 20 [22, 24] inches;
length from top of
shoulders: 9 [10, 11] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Baby 3ply - a version of which is still available today.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2019

Smock Pinafores

SmockTops75.jpg

Pretty and easy to make knitted pinafores, providing a practical alternative to full knitted dresses which may be too warm for most centrally heated homes in this era.

Instructions.

This is the plain bodice, striped skirt, design in two colours.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (L); work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in L
2nd row: Purl in L
3rd row: Using D: k2, * sl2, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Using D: p2, * sl2, p2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Knit in L
6th row: Purl in L
7th row: Knit in D
8th row: Purl in D
9th row: Using L: sl2, * k2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
10th row: Using L: sl2, * p2, sl2; repeat from * to end.
11th row: Knit in D
12th row: Purl in D

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until back measures approximately 6½/8/9/10½ inches ending on the 11th pattern row.

Next row: Using D: purl 13/2/0/5 stitches; (p2tog, p0/1/1/1) 31/29/33/31 times; p2tog, purl 13/3/1/6
[58 / 64 / 68 / 74 sts]

Starting with a knit row, continue straight in stocking-stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 42/48/52/58 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 36/40/44/48 stitches remain.
**

Work straight until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 3/4/4/5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 22/24/26/28 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: knit 10/11/12/13; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 11/12/13/14 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 7/8/9/10 stitches remain.
Work straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 3/4/4/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 12/14/16/18 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, knit to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 12/14/16/18 stitches from the front, pick up and knit 18/19/20/21 up the right side; then knit 22/24/26/28 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seam and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
2/2/2/2 balls in the contrast colour

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

L: main shade (light)
D: contrast (dark)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 


Instructions.

This is the pinafore with the patterned bodice design in three colours.

Note: When working colour pattern from the chart, strand yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
When changing twist yarns on the wrong side to avoid a hole.
Read odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left
to right.

Back

**
With No 10 needles and contrast (D), cast on 84/88/96/100 stitches, and work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit).

Next row (increase row): knit 7/9/8/10 stitches; (m1, k14/14/16/16) 5 times; m1, knit 7/9/8/10.
[90 / 94 / 102 / 106 sts]

Break off colour D

Change to No 8 needles and join in main shade (M), and starting with a knit row, work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7///11 inches ending with a knit row.

Next row: purl 4/10/10/7 stitches; (p2tog, p2/2/2/3) 20/18/20/18 times; p2tog, purl 4/10/10/7
[69 / 75 / 81 / 87 sts]

Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart until back measures 8//11/12½ inches, ending with a purl row.

Note: Repeat the 6 pattern stitches 11/12/13/14 times across and last 3 stitches on knit rows and first 3 stitches on purl rows as indicated.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 47/53/59/65 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 43/47/51/55 stitches remain.
**

Work straight in pattern until back measures 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches ending with a purl row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 4/5/5/6 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 27/29/31/33 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for back from ** to ** .
Work 1 row straight.

Divide for neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 12/13/14/15; k2tog, turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continue on these 13/14/15/16 stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 8/9/10/11 stitches remain.
Work straight in pattern until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder: by casting off 4/4/5/5 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 4/4/5/5 stitches.

With right side facing, leave the centre 15/17/19/21 stitches on a spare needle, and rejoin appropriate colour yarn to the remaining stitches k2tog, pattern to end.

Finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly under a damp cloth on wrong side, omitting garter
stitch borders.
Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, starting at the left front shoulder, work as follows:
Pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 stitches down the left side of the neck, knit 15/17/19/21 stitches from the front decreasing 2 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 17/18/19/20 up the right side; then knit 27/29/31/33 stitches from the back. [70 / 76 / 82 / 88 sts]
Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).
Cast off.

Join left shoulder seams and neckband.
Armhole Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 needles and colour D, pick up and knot 50/56/62/68 stitches all round each armhole.
Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Join side seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:
2/2/2/3 x 50g balls in main shade;
1 balls in of the two the contrast colours.
Editor's note: Colour names to conjure with:
Aqua Gem, Gay Turquoise, Blue Slate and Wild Rose....

Pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Spare needles or stitch holders.

Tension

22sts and 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
20/22/24/26 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 12½/14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

M: main (aqua)
L: light (pink)
D: dark (blue)

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch)

m1: make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem double crepe.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

December 2018

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningSoldiers1.jpg

If your 5-year-old is getting a box of soldiers then make him this amusing matching jersey
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the soldier motifs.

Suitable for all 5 year olds who aren't expecting an iphone, (and who like to play out of season cricket).

Instructions:

The jersey is worked in one size - stated as a 5 year old but remembering that children now tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s.

Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid blue) cast on 84 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 85 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and changing from the main mid-blue wool to the pale blue as the background colour for the motifs, work the soldier pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 12 pattern stitches 7 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

When 20 rows have been completed, change back to the mid-blue main shade and work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 8 inches.

Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of he next 2 rows. Then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 65 stitches remain.
Work straight until back measures 13¼ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until the first 2 rows of the armhole shaping have been done. [75 sts]

Now divide for the neck:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 35, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 4 rows, then keeping the armhole edge straight, and at the same time, decreasing at the neck edge on every following 3rd row until 24 stitches remain.

Work straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, armhole edge.

Join the wool to the remaining stitches, at the neck edge; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first half, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (mid-blue) cast on 48 stitches and work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, increasing to 49 stitches on the last row.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work the 20 rows from the chart as for the back.

When these are done, change back to the main mid-blue wool and continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 63 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve measures 10½ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neckband

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and mid-blue main shade, pick up and knit 48 stitches down left front, 1 stitch from centre, 48 stitches up right front, and 18 stitches across back of neck.

Work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib; decreasing 1 stitch either side of centre front stitch on alternate rows.
Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Join left shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.

Materials

3 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade (mid blue) and 1 oz in paler blue. Small balls in red and navy for the soldier motifs.

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

30 sts and 38 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

One size - width all round chest 25 ins.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½ ins.
Sleeve seam: 10½ inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningSoldiers2.jpg

April 2018

Sweetheart Sweaters

SweetheartSweaters.jpg

Hearts and flowers in the bluebell season.

Instructions for Crew Neck Version.

Instructions for 5 sizes - larger sizes are shown in brackets.

Charts

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

The chart is included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 61 [65, 71, 77, 81] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 row for 5cm ending with a a first row (wrong side facing
for next row).

Next row: Rib 8 [4, 8, 10, 5] m1; (rib 15 [8, 11, 19, 10], m1) 3 [7, 5, 3, 7] times, rib to end. (65 [73, 77, 81, 89] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work 34 rows in pattern from the chart, working the first and last 8 [12, 14, 0, 4] stitches of each row as indicated for each size, and working the 16 stitch repeat pattern in between.

After completing the first 34 rows, work a further 6 [18, 26, 38, 40] rows in the pattern thus ending with a 6th [18th, 26th, 4th, 6th] pattern row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

3rd, 4th and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row.
( - [-, 65, 69, 77] sts).
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back until 37 [43, 45, 47, 49] stitches remain in raglan shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, divide for neck as follows:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 11 [13, 14, 14, 15], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 12 [14, 15, 15, 16] stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every alternate row until 6 [8, 8, 8, 7] stitches remain.

Work 1 [1, 0, 0, 1] rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge only on he next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Next row: k2tog, and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 11 [13, 13, 15, 15] stitches on a length of yarn or stitch holder, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Work to match first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 31 [31, 39, 39, 39] stitches and work in rib as on back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm, ending with a 1st row and wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: Rib 8 [8, 10, 10, 10] m1; rib 15 [15, 19, 19, 19], m1; rib to end. (33 [33, 41, 41, 41] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, and starting with a 19th row, work in pattern as for 1st [1st, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd] size of the Back at the same time shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [7th, 3rd, 7th, 3rd] and every following 6th [7th, 12th, 14th, 12th] row until there are 49 [49, 53, 53, 57] stitches, taking the increase stitches into the pattern.

Materials

50g balls DK in 3 colours: main shade (MS) plus 2 contrasts:
3 [4, 4, 5, 5] M;
1 [1, 1, 2, 2] C1*;
1 [1, 1, 1, 1], C2.
* may be only one ball of C1 required for all sizes if working the collared version.

Pair each No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 22 [24, 26, 28, 30] inches, (56 [61, 66, 71, 76]cm) actual measurement allows 1-2 inches of ease;
length from top of shoulders: 12 [14, 15½, 17½, 19] inches, (30 [36, 40, 45, 48]cm);
sleeve seam: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.


A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Moorland Tweed/Shetland double knitting. Moorland was 100% wool with a suggested yardage of 137 yds (125m) - although this was not printed on the ball bands at that time.

A similar substitute might be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Continue in pattern until sleeve seam measures: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm), ending with the same pattern row as on the Back at the start of the raglan shaping, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 4th row until [33, 37, 35, 37] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 7 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a safety pin.

Making Up and instructions for crew neck

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglans, leaving left back raglan open.

Make Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and MS, k7 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches down left side of neck, k11 [13, 13, 15, 15] from front, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches up right side of neck, k7 from right sleeve, then 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] from the Back, increasing 1 stitch at the centre.
(73 [77, 87, 91, 93] sts).

Starting with a 2nd row, work in rib as for the Back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm.
Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off loosely in rib.

Join remaining raglan and Crew Neck seam.
Fold Crew Neck in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Making Up and instructions for collar

Work as for Crew Neck Version but casting off stitches loosely at back of neck, front of neck, and top of sleeves.

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglan, side, and sleeve seams.

Make collar:
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 73 [77, 81, 85, 89] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more then the 1st row again.
Next row: Rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 4 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 6 stitches, turn.

Continue thus until the 2 rows "sl1, rib to last 16 stitches, turn" have been worked.
Next row: sl1, rib to end

Continue in rib across all stitches until Collar measures 3cm at the side edge.

Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off evenly in rib.
Sew cast-off edge of collar in position all round neck as in photograph.

Press seams.

December 2017

On Christmas morning

ChristmasMorningPlane1.jpg

A jolly little waistcoat for the lucky 3 year old who is having a new toy engine or or aeroplane.
... what little boy wouldn't be thrilled to receive this attractive woolly on Christmas morning, teaming up with his new toys. Quickly knitted in tough Fair Isle Fingering, and you can use up your odds and ends for the various motifs.

How far away those days seem - or actually "are"! Even in my era - as attested by James May in Top Toys - boys (not girls of course!) were fixated by rockets and action men - though Airfix was as popular as ever.
Nonetheless - a "jolly little waistcoat" - for retro 3 years olds and their retro parents.

Instructions:

The waistcoat is worked in one piece and in one size - stated as a 3 year old but remembering that children tend to be larger than they were in the early 1950s. As usual, you could probably increase the size successfully by using a heavier wool and larger needles.

Back and Fronts in one

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 145 stitches, and work 1½ inches in k1/p1 rib - rows on the right side having k1 and each end.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch, and work in pattern from chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.

Work the 24 pattern stitches 6 times across with last stitch on knit rows and first stitch on purl rows as indicated.
Carry MS wool across on each row but join in lengths of appropriate shades (or use bobbins) for each motif: work the required number of stitches for the motif colour, drop wool, then pick it up again on the return row.

Work the 52 rows once, then, continuing to work motifs from the chart, and with right side facing, divide for armholes thus:

Next row: pattern 36, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern to end.

Continue in pattern on these 33 stitches for the right front, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 6 rows. [27 sts]

Work straight in pattern to the end of the 34th row of the chart.

With right side facing, continue in MS only, shaping neck by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at the neck edge on the next 5 rows.
Next row: Knit.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (armhole edge).

With right side facing, join wool to the remaining stitches.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 70, turn and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Cast off 3, pattern 67.

Continue on these 67 stitches for back, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next 6 rows.

Work straight to end of the 34th row of the chart.

Change to MS only and work 8 rows straight, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

With right side facing, join wool to last 36 stitches, armhole edge, and cast off 3, pattern to end, then work to correspond with right front.

Ribbed Front Borders

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS) cast on 11 stitches and working in k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end, make a strip to go up the right front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along and leave the stitches on a safety pin at the top.

Make a similar strip for left front with the addition of 7 buttonholes, the first to come in the 3rd and 4th rows from the bottom edge, and the 7th about 1 inch from the top (allowing for 8th to be worked in the neckband later), and the remaining 5 at equal intervals.
Mark the position of the buttons with pins on right front to ensure even spacing then work holes to match.

To make a buttonhole:
Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end and then back, casting on 3 over those stitches cast off.

Neck Border

Join shoulder seams.

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), rib the 11 stitches from the right front border, pick up and knit 43 stitches all round the neck, then rib the remaining 11 stitches from the left front border. [65 sts]

Work ½ inch in k1/p1 rib making the 8th buttonhole after ¼ inch has been done. Cast off in rib.

Armhole Borders

With right side facing, using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), pick up and knit 89 stitches round each armhole.
Work ½ inch k1/p1 rib; cast off in rib.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully on wrong side using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

2 oz Fair Isle Fingering in main shade and 1 oz each in emerald and scarlet.
Oddments or small balls in brown and royal blue (see photo at the end).

A pair each No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

32 sts to 4 inches on No 10 (3¼mm) needles over Fair Isle pattern.

Size matters

One size - width all round under arm 22 inches.
Length from top of shoulders: 12 inches.

Abbreviations:

k1: knit 1.
p1: purl 1.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Fair Isle Fingering about which there is some information available on Ravelry. This pattern is in ounces but it seems the yarn stuck around for a while as some vintage stocks can be seen in 25g balls.
Measured by a user to be about 150m or 160 yards to a 1 oz ball, and the ball band states "4ply".

Jamiesons are Kings (or Queens) of Fair Isle and Shetland knitting - their Spindrift yarn sounds a good substitute: equivalent to a traditional 4ply; ideal for Fair Isle knitting; extensive colour pallet of over 220 colours; supplied in 25g Balls (105m); tension: 30sts x 32 rows on 3¼mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

ChristmasMorningPlane2.jpg

December 2016

Cosy Pram Cover - crochet

CrochetCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to crochet a simple cover if you can get over the lurid sixties colour schemes. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations which would be less traumatic for a baby].

Instructions

The crochet blanket is made up of a number of large motifs sewn together and then joined with smaller motifs which are integrated as you work.

Large Motif (make 24)

Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and DK in Light colour (L) make 6ch loosely and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 3 chain, work 23tr into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch. [24 sts].
Break L and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M work 5ch, 1tr in same stitch as slip stitch; 1ch, * miss 2 stitches, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next stitch, 1 ch; repeat from * 6 times more; miss 2ch, and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 5ch.
Break M and join in Dark colour (D).
3rd round: In D work a slip stitch into first 2ch space, 3ch, (1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in same 2ch space; * 1dc in next 1ch space, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 2ch space; repeat from * 6 times more; 1dc into last 1ch space, and join with a slip stitch into top of 3ch, slip stitch into next tr.
Break D and rejoin in L.
4th round: In L work a slip stitch in first 2ch space, 3ch, (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same 2ch space; 1dc into next dc, * (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next 2ch space; 1dc in next dc; repeat from * 6 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of 3ch.
Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

To Make Up

Using L, join motifs by stitching centre stitches of each motif together, and making 6 rows of 4 motifs.
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant by centre stitches, I think they must mean the centre stitches of the last round. Clearly the motifs are attached at the sides as in the picture]

Work 15 small motifs to fill the spaces formed by the larger motifs and join together as follows:

Small Motif (make 15 - joining as you work)

The smaller motifs are worked in 4 ply.
Using No 9 (3½mm) hook and 4ply in Dark (D) make 8 chain loosely and join with a slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring.

1st round: 6 chain, work (1tr, 3ch) 7 times into the ring and join with a slip stitch to 3rd of 6 ch.
Break D and join in Medium colour (M).
2nd round: In M slip stitch in first space; 3ch, 2tr, in same space; (slip stitch inserting hook from right side of large motif into centre treble of 3tr on large motif; 3tr in next chain space of small motif) 7 times; insert hook into centre treble of last petal, and at the same time insert hook into top of 3ch, joining with a slip stitch.
[Editor's note: This sounds more complex than it is - you need to be working it to understand. All you are doing is joining the small motif in between the larger ones as you work round 2]
Fasten off.

This completes the motif - work the other 14 in the same way.

Finishing

With right side facing, Using No 7 (4½mm) hook and M in DK, work 1 round of dc around scalloped edge of cover.
Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Cut the lining material to fit around the scalloped edges. Turn in the edges and catch down all around the scallops inside the dc border.

Materials

Double Knitting: 2 x 50g balls of Light, and 1 each of Medium and Dark.

4ply: 1 x 25g in each of Medium and Dark.

One No 7 (4½mm) and one No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

½ yard of washable lining material to match the dark colour.

Tension

Each motif is intended to measure 4½ inches.

Size matters

18 x 27 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.

Stylecraft have a good range of acrylics with equivalent colours available in DK and 4ply.


CrochetIsEasy.jpg

Cosy Pram Cover - knitted

KnittedCover.jpg

There maybe just enough time to knit a simple cover if you can get over the dramatic sixties colour scheme. [I'm sure you can choose your own combinations].

Instructions

The pattern uses DK weight yarn with 2 strands held together.

Motif (make 12)

Using main shade (M) cast on 96 stitches and work 11 rows in garter stitch (every row knit but slip the first stitch of every row).

Next row: Sl1, k7, slip these 8 stitches on to a thread; k4, increase in the next stitch, (k9, increase in next stitch) 7 times; k5; slip the next 8 stitches on to a thread (88 sts).

Joining in contrast (C) as required and work in pattern as follows:

1st row: Sl1, k2C, * k4M, k2C, repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
2nd row: Sl1, k2C; yft, * p4M, k2C, yft; repeat from * to last stitch, k1M.
3rd row: In M sl1, knit to end.
4th row: In M sl1, purl to last stitch, k1.
5th row: Sl1, k3M, * k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end.
6th row: Sl1, p3M, * k2C, yft, p4M; repeat from * to last 6 stitches;
k2C, yft, p3M, k1M.
7th and 8th rows: As 3rd and 4th rows.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until main part measures approximately 26½ inches ending with a 2nd pattern row.
Break off contrast C.
Next row: K4, k2tog, (k9, k2tog) 7 times; k5. (80 sts)
Break off M. and slip stitches on to a length of yarn.

Borders and finishing

With wrong side facing, rejoin M to the 8 border stitches on left side and work in garter stitch until Border measures 26 inches from cast-on edge, ending with wrong side facing.
Break M and slip stitches on to a thread.
Sew in position, using a flat seam, slightly stretching it to fit edge of
main part.
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining border stitches and complete to correspond with first Border, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Next row: Sl1, k7, then on to same needle knit across stitches of main
part and first Border (96 sts).
Work 10 rows in garter stitch across all stitches.
Cast off evenly.

Sew remaining Border in position.
Pin out to measurements.
Press lightly on wrong side.

Materials

6 x 50g balls double knitting in main shade (M) and 2 in contrast (C).

Two No 4 (6mm) needles

Tension

18sts x 20 rows to 4 inches over pattern. [Yarn is used double throughout].

Size matters

22 x 27½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl1: slip one stitch
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


A word on the wool.

The original yarn was bri-nylon - famous for its hard wearing properties and luminous colour ranges. Although "bri-nylon" is not very marketable now, modern acrylic yarns are a worthy replacement being soft yet robust with a wide choice of colours.
You could also consider knitting a single strand in a heavier weight yarn - Aran, worsted, even chunky. However you would need to knit a tension square in the pattern stitches.

October 2016

Little Lumber Jacket

LittleLumberJacket.jpg

A delightful little child's jacket from the 1950s. Beryl knitted it for her grandson and it looks lovely on him - see pictures at the end. [She also gives useful feedback on the sizing].

Instructions:

Two sizes are given - see notes on sizing with the photos at the end. Larger size is shown in brackets, and where only one number is shown it applies to both sizes.

Pocket Flaps (make 2)

Using No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 13 stitches.

1st row: Purl.
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K2, (p1, k1) twice, wf, k2tog, (p1, k1) twice, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Break off wool and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1. .
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Work these two rows 8[9] times more, increasing one stitch the beginning of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}.

††
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, knitting the first stitch on every row, work in stocking stitch until work measures 8½[10] inches from the beginning, finishing at the side edge.

Shape armhole by casting off 3[3] stitches the the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch the the armhole edge on every row until 26[28] stitches remain.
††

Work 3[4] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the side edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P5[7]; cast off 13, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P8[8]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.

††
Keeping yoke pattern correct as on last 6 rows,
[Editor's Note: the 1st row in the 6 row pattern is always purl all stitches.]
continue until work measures 12[14] inches from the beginning, finishing at the front edge.

Keeping yoke pattern correct, shape neck by casting off 5[6] stitches at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 17[18] stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5[]inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, finishing at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8[9] stitches, pattern to end.
2nd row: Pattern across all stitches.
Cast off.

Left Front

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 33[35] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times, increasing one stitch the end of the last row on the larger size only. {33[36] sts}

Work as for Right Front from †† to ††.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the front edge.

Place pocket flap:
Next row: P8[8]; cast off 13, purl to end.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): P5[7]; slip 13 pocket flap stitches on to left-hand needle, purl across these stitches; purl to end.
2nd and 3rd rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit.
5th and 6th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Complete as for right Front working from ††to end.

Back:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on 65[71] stitches. Work rows 1 and 2 of rib as on Right Front 9[10] times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures same as fronts up to the armhole shaping, finishing at the end of a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every row until 51[55] stitches remain.
Work 4[5] rows in stocking stitch thus finishing at the end of a purl row.

Proceed in yoke pattern as follows:

1st row (right side of work facing): Purl.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: Knit.
5th rows: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
6th row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.

Continue in yoke pattern as on these 6 rows until work measures same as fronts up to shoulder shaping.

Shape shoulder by casting off 8[9] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 9[9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off.

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 32[34] stitches and

Work 2¼[] inches in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 1[2], (increase in next stitch, rib 3) 7 times; increase in next stitch, rib to end. {40[42] sts}.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 10th[10th] row until there are 50[54] stitches.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 10½[12] inches from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3[3] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 14[16] stitches remain.

Cast off.

Collar:

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles, cast on 85[89] stitches.

1st row: K2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1..
2nd row: * K1, p1; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K1, k2togtbl, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, k2tog, k1.
4th row: K1, p1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1.
5th rows: K1, k2togtbl, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k2tog, k1.

Work rows 2-5 inclusive 3 times more, then the 2nd row once.

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
Cast off.

Pockets (make 2):

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 13 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch for 2½[] inches.
Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece carefully using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Using back stitch, join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Stitch Pockets into position on wrong side, stitching top of Pockets along inside of Pocket Flaps.
Stitch on Collar.
Attach buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
Stitch zip into position.
Press all seams.

Materials

7 [9] oz Double Knitting Yarn.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

12[14] inch open ended zip.
Two buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches on No 8 (4mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 23½[25½] inch chest.
Length from top of shoulders: 13½[15½] inches.
Sleeve seam: 10½[12] inches.

Abbreviations:

yf: yarn forward; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 sts together through back loops (aka "ssk" - slip slip knit, - slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit them together).
stocking stitch: 1 row knit, 1 row purl.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Moorland, Double Quick, or Totem DK.
Easily to find modern double knitting yarns but you will need to review the quantities.
Beryl used 2½ x 50g balls of Sirdar Snuggly - a synthetic yarn with a very good yardage (165m per ball). The original pure wools required 4-5 x 50g balls (which is consistent with my own "rule of thumb" of around 100 yards per 50g ball for pure wools).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LittleLumberJacket3.jpg

And here is a picture of the cardigan knitted by Beryl in a modern yarn: 2½ balls of Sirdar Snuggly Double Knitting:

LittleLumberJacket2.jpg

Beryl had some notes on the sizing. The original pattern was for 4-7 year olds; her grandson was only 20 months old and she left the length as it was written - she says: "he is a chunky littel chap" and previous feedback for the Little Raglan Reefer suggested the lengths of these old patterns works up a bit short for modern taste. The sleeves could have been shortened (for a 20 month old) as you can see the cuffs are turned back. Beryl found the zip a challenge and ended up using the sewing machine.
Her conclusion is that if the knitter does the length longer and leaves the sleeves as they are it would be more suitable for a 2-3 year old.

Beryl said: "I love the jacket on my grandson and I have recently found a picture of my brother wearing the same cardigan that my Mum made for him!"

Doug.jpg

[And needless to say this one is my personal favourite - how is it that all our brothers from that era have such wonderful cheeky grins? All of them "Just William".]

September 2015

Classic School Pullover

ClassicSchoolPullover3.jpg

A classic sleeveless school pullover with instructions for 4ply fingering and double knitting.
[Illustrated on a rather serious classic school boy.]

Instructions:

The instructions are give for a 28 inch chest with 3 larger sizes in brackets.
Note that there are 2 sets of instructions given separately for a 4 ply and a Double Knitting version of the pullover.

Casting on

Cast on using cable method.
Using two needles make a loop and slip it on to left-hand needle (1 stitch made), insert needle through front of stitch, draw loop through and place on left-hand needle (2 stitches).
* Insert needle through space between the 2 stitches, yarn round, pull loop through and place on needle (3 stitches). Repeat from * until you have the required number of stitches


4 ply Pullover Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 98 [106; 112; 120] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 2 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [74; 80; 88] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6
[7; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

4 ply Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k43 [47; 50; 54] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.
Next row: Cast off 2 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 rows, and at the same time decrease. 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 16 [19; 21; 24] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.
With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

4 ply Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches up right side of neck, and 34 [36; 38; 40] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

4 ply Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 112 [120; 126; 132] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 10 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands.
Press seams.


Double Knitting Pullover Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 [90; 96; 102] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [72; 78; 84] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 58 [64; 70; 76] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then cast off 5 [7; 7; 7] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Double Knitting Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k36 [39; 42; 45] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the following 5 rows, then 1 stitch on the following 4 alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 15 [17; 19; 21] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue with armhole and neck shapings to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

Double Knitting Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches up right side of neck, and 28 [30; 32; 34] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

Double Knitting Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands. Press seams.

Materials

4 ply version: 5 [6; 7; 7] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

DK version: 7 [7; 8; 9] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

4 ply version:
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches

DK version:
24 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 26 [28; 30; 32] inches.
Length: 17½ [18½; 19½; 20½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometimes called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit/purl 2 slipped sts together through back loops).

p2togtbl: decrease by purling 2 sts together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The yarn in ounces.
A 50g ball of yarn is approximately 1¾ oz, or the other way around: 1oz is about 28g.

When substituting yarn, ideally you need to calculate using the yardage of the yarns - and with old patterns this is usually impossible, as the yardage is not given. So you need to be aware that in some cases, where the old yarn was synthetic or had a very good yardage, you may find that you use as much as one 50g ball for every 1 oz ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2015

Andy Pandy Romper

AndyPandyRomper.jpg

This is an adorable romper; the stripes are created by knitting garter stitch ridges sideways using contrast yarn. Pom-pom ties are used as fasteners at the shoulders.

After last months picture of the Andy Pandy puppet, how could I resist making this outfit.

Instructions

The romper is easy to knit, though - like exam questions - make sure you read the pattern and understand the pictures of the pieces clearly before you start.

Pattern stitches

Garter Stitch: every row knitted.
Stocking stitch: 1 row knit; 1 row purl.
Striped pattern: 4 rows in white in stocking stitch, 2 rows in blue in garter stitch (both rows knitted). Repeat these 6 rows to form the stripes.

Trouser legs

This section is worked sideways in one piece up to the armhole. Dotted lines in picture show the centre sides and the ankle borders.

Using 3mm needles and white yarn (A) , cast on 34 sts and knit 3 rows of striped pattern.

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [81 sts]

Continue in striped pattern, shaping waist by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 9th and every following 10th row until 77 sts remain.

Work straight until leg measures 23cm (9 inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editor's note: this is about 87 rows; 14 blue ridges ending on row 3 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [30 sts]

Work straight on these 30 sts for 2 cm (¾ inch) ending with wrong side facing.
[Editor's note: this is about 9 rows; 2 more blue ridges ending on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [77 sts]

Work straight until section measures 36 cms (14¼ inches) from the beginning, ending with right side facing.

Start shaping the waist again by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 10th row until there are 81 sts.
[Editor's note: From now on, you can judge where to start increasing and casting off by folding your piece at the centre and matching the stripes.]

Work straight until section measures 47 cms (18½ inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editor's note: this is finishing on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [34 sts]

Work 2 rows stocking stitch in white (A).
Cast off.

Ankle Borders

With 2½mm needles and white yarn A, knit up 70 sts along lower edge of leg.

Next row: K1; (k2tog) 34 times; k1. [36 sts]

Now work in garter stitch for 2 cm (¾ inch).
Cast off.

Left Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to end. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k2tog, psso, knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to end. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Repeat these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K3, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k2. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Right Back

Work as for Left front.

Right Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Rep these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k3. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, k3tog, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, k3tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Left Back

Work as for Right front.

Making Up

Join centre back seam and leg seams.

Placing left front over right front and right back over left back, sew bodice pieces to trousers.
[Editor's note: It's not altogether clear what is meant by "left" and "right" here - both in the instructions and in the making up. Convention says that it means from the point of view of the person (or baby) wearing it. However the pictures imply that it is as you are looking at the romper. It does not matter of course - do what you like best - but be consistent. ]

Make twisted cords and small pom-poms, and attach to shoulders for fastenings.
[Editor's note: You could use press studs here - the sort that you apply with a gripper tool - and add the pom-poms as the decoration (I actually sewed the shoulders together and adapted the leg opening - see below).]

Materials

2 x 50g ball yarn A (white),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (blue)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Tension

22sts x 38 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch pattern on 3mm needles.

Use smaller or larger needles to obtain the correct tension.

Size matters

Instructions given for age 3 months.

Chest 42 cms,
(17 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog/k3tog: knit 2 or 3 sts together.

yfwd, k2tog: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following 2 stitches together, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes an eyelet hole.

yrn, p2tog: yarn round needle - as yfwd but for purl stitches.

Sl 1: slip 1 stitch

Sl 1, k1/k2tog, psso: slip 1, knit 1/k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 or 2 sts).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard double knitting with good yardage of 126 yards (115 meters) - so you may need 3 balls of the main colour if substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

AndyPandyRomper2.jpg

Adapting the leg seams

I think it is very awkward to put a small baby into trousers in the conventional way. Many of these vintage baby patterns from the 1980s have leg openings which I think are much more practical, so I adapted this pattern. I chose buttons but you can apply press studs if you think that is safer.

Instead of sewing the inside leg seams I picked up 111 stitches all around each side and knitted a few rows in 3 x 3 rib, working as follows:
Row 1: K3, *P3, K3; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: P3, *K3, P3; repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat these last 2 rows once and cast off in rib

For the other side I inserted a button hole row:
Work rows 1 and 2 in rib as before.
Next (buttonhole) row: K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), K3, P3; (K1, yfwd, K2tog);* P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), K3, P3; (K1, yfwd, K2tog); repeat from * once, (6 buttonholes worked), then,
P3, (K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, (centre buttonhole worked), then,
(K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), * K3, P3, (K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog); repeat from * once, K3.

Work row 2 again, then row one, and cast off in rib.

April 2015

Ducks on Parade

DucksOnParade.jpg

A twin set with a duck motif for Easter. However, the biggest charmer here is in the photo. Not only is the girl cute and looking like she having a lovely day out, but we have a real star in the shape of an original Andy Pandy himself. Even if the cardigan set does not appeal, these are cute little duckling motifs and the charts could be used for cushions or as cross stitch patterns.

Instructions:

The individual ducklings are worked intarsia style, but main shade is stranded loosely across back of work when not in use.
Eyes and beaks of ducklings, and water are embroidered afterwards.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

Cardigan Back

Begin by winding 4 balls each of Lemon (L) and Gold (G) wool.
With No 12 needles and main shade (M) wool, cast on 100 sts and work 2 inches k1, p1 rib, increasing 3 sts evenly across on last row. [103 sts].

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 30 pattern rows from chart B, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.
Join in separate balls of L and G for each duckling.

When the 30 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in main shade (M) only until back measures 9 inches. Then with right side facing, begin to shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 83 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 14½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches.

Left Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [51 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 42 pattern rows from chart C, reading odd and even rows as on back and joining in a separate ball of G for each bird.
Remember that the mother duck is in white (W) and the duckling in Lemon (L) as before. The mother duck's beak is knitted in, rather than embroidered afterwards.

When the 42 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M only until front measures 7 inches.

Here shape front edge:
Next row (right side facing): Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Work 3 rows straight.

Continue thus, decreasing 1 stitch at front edge on the next and every following 4th row. Meanwhile, when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 5 knit rows, after which you keep the armhole edge straight.
Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row as before until 24 sts remain.

Work straight until front matches back.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Right Front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.
When working pattern from chart, read rows backwards, so that ducks will face each other at front edges, that is, read odd rows knit from left to right and even rows purl from right to left.
[Editor's Note: In the pdf file of the charts I have provided a copy of Chart C in reverse in case you find that easier to work from.]

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 52 sts and work 2 inches in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th row until there are 74 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 11½ inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 46 sts remain, and then at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front Borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With No. 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 9 sts and work a strip in k1, p1 rib, (rows on the right side having a k1 at each end), long enough to go up right front, round back of neck and down left
front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along, and make 5 buttonholes in right border, first to come about ¼ inch from lower edge, and the 5th at the beginning of the front slope with the remainder at equal intervals in between.
Mark the position of the buttons on the left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row casting on 2 over those cast off.

Jumper Front:

**
Begin by winding 3 balls each of G and L.
With No 12 needles and M, cast on 96 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 sts on last row [98 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Continue in stocking stitch and work 26 pattern rows from chart A, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right. Join in separate balls of and G and L wools for each duckling.

When the 26 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M until front measures 9 inches. Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following knit row until 80 sts
remain. **

Work straight until front measures 12½ inches. Then, with right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row (right side facing): K30, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 31 sts , decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 27 sts remain. Then decrease on every alternate row
until 24 sts remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 14 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).
With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches on the spare needle. Slip the centre 16 sts on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 32 sts, k2tog knit to end. [31 sts]

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Jumper Back

Work as for front from ** to ** . [80 sts]

Work straight over all stitches until back measures 11½ inches.
Here divide for back opening: -

Next row (right side facing): K42, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: K4, purl to end. NEXT Row:
Next row: Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to end.
Continue straight on these 42 sts, keeping 4 sts at centre back in garter stitch throughout and the remainder in stocking stitch
and at the same time make 3 buttonholes up opening (the 4th comes in neckband later) - first to come in next row and the remaining 2 at ¾ inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, knit to last 3 sts, wool forward, k2tog, k1.

When back measures same as front, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge); leave remaining 18 sts on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 38 sts, cast on 4 sts for underlap.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl to the last 4 sts, k4.

Finish to correspond with right shoulder, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 63 sts, and work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 71 sts.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve measures 2¾ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 47 sts remain, and then decrease at each end of every row until 19 sts
remain.

Cast off.

Jumper Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and M, pick up and knit 87 sts all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work inch k1/p1 rib, making 4th buttonhole after inch has been done and remembering to keep 4 sts at each end in garter stitch as before.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Embroider eyes with single brown detached chain stitch as indicated
on Chart; embroider beaks in gold slanting satin stitch shapes as indicated by lines on chart. Finally, indicate water round feet with a few straight stitches of varying lengths in white.

Cardigan: embroider eyes and beaks of ducklings as for jumper.
Sew on buttons.
Press all Seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:
8 oz Powder Blue (main shade).
½ oz ball in Lemon; small balls (less than ½ oz each) of 3 ply in Gold and White.
Scraps of brown for eyes.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Four small buttons for jersey and 5 larger ones for cardigan.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches on No 11 (3mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 25 ins; on cardigan, 26 ins;
length from top of shoulders: on jumper, 14 ins; on cardigan 14½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2¾ ins and 11½ inches.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. You can find some nice 3 plies available to meet the tension specified.
Just for the lemon colour used for the ducklings the specified yarn was Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora which would make a nice effect if you could find some suitable fluffy 3 or 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2014

Old Shale Angel

OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg

A really pretty top using the ubiquitous but nonetheless charming old shale (or old shell) stitch. Originally it was knitted in fine white cotton bands interspersed with a fine slightly fluffy yarn, giving it a summery feel. However - how charming it would be in red and white for a small person's party outfit at Christmas. I am not sure how I would arrange the colours for a winter version - I favour the dominant red colour for the plain garter stitch - but it might be interesting to have the white as the fluffy bands simulating fur trimming.

The pattern is for an entire outfit with pants, and some cute little cotton sandals (of dubious value...!).

Below we have simply lovely photo from Sandy in Shellharbour, Australia, showing the complete outfit. She has added a of a little pair of bootees of her own design rather than the "sandals" supplied in the pattern.
Such a pretty colour!

SandysWork.jpg

Instructions for Angel Top

The angel top is worked in a combination garter stitch (every row knitted) and a Wave pattern using "old shale" (or shell) stitch.

When working the Wave pattern, carry the yarn not in use loosely up the side of the work.

Angel Top - main section

This section is worked in one piece up to the armhole.

Using 3mm needles and pink yarn (A) , cast on 192 sts and knit one row.

Continuing with yarn A begin Wave pattern as follows:

1st row (right side) : Knit.
2nd - 4th rows: Knit

Join in white yarn (B), working 5th - 14th rows in white:

5th row: Sl 1; * (k2tog) 3 times; (k1, yfwd) 6 times; k1; (k2tog) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
6th row:
Purl.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: Purl.
9th - 14th rows: Repeat rows 5-8 once, then rows 5 and 6 again.

These 14 rows form the pattern,

Repeat the pattern 3 (4) times more, then work the 1st to 3rd rows again.

Divide for armhole:

Next row (wrong side): K57, increase in the next 2 sts, k74, increase in the next st, and leave these 137 sts on a stitch holder; increase in the next st, knit to end.

Continue on these remaining 59 sts to make the Left Back. Work rows 5-14, break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K6; (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2) 7 times, k4. [45 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 24 (27½) cm, or 9½ (10¾) inches, ending with a right side row.

Cast off, placing a marker for the collar on the 26th stitch from the end.

With right side facing, rejoin white yarn B to sts on stitch holder and pattern 78 (as 5th row of Wave pattern); turn and leave remaining sts on stitch holder.

Continue in pattern on these 78 sts for Front and work rows 6-14.
Break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K4; (k2tog, k2) 18 times, k2. [60 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 20 (23½) cm, or 7¾ () inches, ending with a right side row.

Shape Neck:

Next row (wrong side): K27 and leave on a stitch holder; cast off 6 sts; knit to end.

Continue on remaining 27 sts for first side:

1st and every alternate row: Knit

2nd row (wrong side): cast off 3 sts, knit to end.
4th row: cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row:
cast off 1 st, knit to end.
8th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.
10th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.

Work a few rows on remaining 19 sts until Front matches Left Back to shoulder.
Cast off.


With right side facing, rejoin yarn A to 27 sts of front left on stitch holder and k27.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shaping.

With right side facing, rejoin white to 59 sts on stitch holder and pattern 59 (as 5th row of Wave pattern).
Finish Right Back to correspond with Left Back, reversing placing of marker for Collar.

Angel Top - sleeves

With 2½mm needles and yarn A, cast on 30 sts and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (wrong side): K1, (ml, k1) 29 times. [59 sts]

Change to 3mm needles, join in white yarn B and beginning with 5th row of the Wave pattern, work in pattern until sleeve measures approximately 11 (14½) cm, or 4¼ () inches, ending with a 14th pattern row.

Break off yarn B and continue in yarn A only.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a stitch holder.

Angel Top - collar

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 120 sts and work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn A, and join in yarn B.

1st row: Sl 1 , * k1, yfwd, k4, k2tog, sl 1, k1, psso, K4, yfwd; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: purl.

Rep these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: Sl 1 , * k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. [93 sts]
Cast off.

Angel Top - neck band

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 60 sts and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Making Up the Angel Top

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams.
Join sleeves to main part, unpicking contrast yarn and working stitch by stitch in back stitch on right side.
Sew Collar into neck opening, starting and ending at back markers.
Sew Neck Border over Collar, joining to Main Part in same way as the sleeves.
Make 2 buttonhole loops at Left Back and sew buttons on Right Back to correspond.

Materials

1 x 50g ball yarn A (pink),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (white)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Stitch holders.

2 buttons.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Yarn A: 25sts x 38 rows and yarn B: 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn A was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Yarn B was their 100% cotton "Perlé 5" yarn with a yardage of 219 yards (200 meters). I used a substitute Twilleys thread for this.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelOutfit.jpg


Instructions for Pants

The pants are worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted) in one piece, starting at the front waist, working down to the crotch, and then up the back, ending at the back waist.

Begin at front and with 2½mm needles cast on 48(56) sts and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 3mm needles and work 8(10) cms 3¼() inches in garter stitch, noting that 1st row you knitted is the right side, and ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for leg openings:

Next row: Knit 13(17) and leave on a stitch holder; k22, turn, and leave remaining 13 (17) sts on a stitch holder.

Continue on these centre 22 sts and work 9(10) cms 3½() inches in garter stitch,ending with a right side row.
Break yarn and leave 22 sts on a stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on first stitch holder and knit to end.
Continue on these 13(17) sts for left side of pants and work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a wrong side row.

** Begin shaping side by decreasing 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 6th(4th) row.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 4th row 2(1) times. [8(13) sts]
Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 1(2) alternate rows. [6(10) sts]
Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next and following 0(1) alternate rows. [4(6) sts]
Break yarn and leave these sts on a stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on 2nd stitch holder and knit to end. [13(17) sts]
Work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a right side row.

Shape Front Sides

Working right side of pants as left side from ** until 6(8) sts remain, ending at side edge.

Continue shaping sides and join all 3 parts to close leg openings:

Next row (wrong side): cast off 2 sts, k4(6) (including st left on needle after cast-off), k22 from centre, then k4(6) from left side. [30(34) sts]
Continue working across all stitches:

Next 2 rows: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 2 rows: Cast off 2(3) sts, knit to end
Next 2 rows: Cast Off 3(4) sts, knit to end.
Work 2 rows on remaining 16 sts.

Shape Back

2nd SIZE
Next 2 rows: Cast on 4 sts, knit to end.

BOTH SIZES
Next 2 rows: Cast on 3 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 rows: Cast on 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 (8) rows: Cast on 1 st, knit to end.
Work 3 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row 2 times. [46(56) sts]

1st SIZE
Work 5 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of the next row. [48 sts ]

BOTH SIZES
Continue straight until Back matches Front to start of rib.
Change to 2½mm needles and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pants

Leg Borders: With right side facing and using set of 4 needles, knit up 46(51) sts round each leg opening and work in rounds.

1st round: Purl
2nd round: Knit
Rep these 2 rows twice more.
Cast off loosely purlways.

Join side seams.

Materials

Pants: 1x 50g ball [suggested to be 257 yards / (235 meters]

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.
Set of 4, 2½mm (UK 12) needles with points at both ends.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

25sts x 38 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn used for the Pants was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelSandals.jpg

Instructions for Sandals

With 2mm hook make 20 chain foundation row.

SOLE

1st round: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 17ch, 3 dc in next ch, then back along other side of foundation: 1 ch: 1 dc in each of next 18 ch, 3 dc in next ch, sl st to join.

Work 2 more rounds, working 3 dc in stitch at each end of sole as before.

4th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 3 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice; sl st to join.

5th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 5 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts) twice; sl st to join. [66 sts]

Work 1 round dc on these 66 sts to complete sole and fasten off.

With right side facing, mark 33 sts round one end of sole and work back of sandal working back and forth in rows:

1st row: Rejoin yarn. 3 ch; miss 1 st; 1 tr in next st; (1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr in next st) 15 times, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch and tr on previous row. [33 sts]
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: 2 ch, 1 tr in each ch and tr on previous row.
5th row: As 1st row.
6th row: Without turning, work in crab stitch back across the row.

Fasten Off.

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right (assuming you are right handed and normally crochet from left to right). It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

TOE

Make 18 ch.
Foundation Row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end.
Mark centre st.
2nd row: work a row of dc, working 3 dc in centre stitch.
3rd row: work a row of dc, working 5 dc in centre stitch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along shaped edge.
Fasten off.

STRAPS for TOP of SANDAL

Make 26 ch and work Foundation Row as for Toe. [25 sts]

2nd and 3rd rows: 1 ch, 1 dc in each stitch to end.
Break yarn.

Miss 11 sts and rejoin yarn to next stitch 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches. [3 sts]

Work 3cms (1¼ inches) in dc on these 3 sts, then continue in crab stitch round all edges, making a buttonhole at each side of 3 dc strip,
and as close as possible to the tip.

To Make a Buttonhole

2 ch, miss 2 rows, 1 dc in next row.

ANKLE STRAP

Make 17 ch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along both sides.

TO MAKE UP

Sew Toe and Sandal Straps in place on sole, (see photo).
Join Ankle Strap to top of Sandal Back; pass through buttonholes worked on each side of the 3 dc strap.
Work buttonhole loop at end of Ankle Strap, and sew button to Sandal to correspond.
Work a row of crab stitch round outer edge of Sole.


Make a second sandal and reverse position of Ankle Strap and button.

Materials

1 ball cotton 3 ply - possible yardage: 219 yards (200 meters).

2mm crochet hook.

2 small buttons

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Equivalent tension of 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Phildar 100% cotton "Perlé 5" with a suggested yardage of 219 yards (200 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Notes on English Crochet Stitches

Double crochet:
draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble*:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble*:
pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble*:
pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

* not used in this pattern.


Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch - a picture painting a thousand words and so on.

April 2014

Bunny suits

BunnySuits.jpg

Cute little sweaters with rabbit motifs. Also supplies a pattern for a skirt and little shorts.

"Small girls and boys will love these Bunny Rabbit sets. Hers has a cute flared skirt, and his, neat little trousers. We knitted them in vivid red and white for tough wear."

Instructions.

Instructions for one size given for jumper, cardigan, shorts, and skirt.

Jumper

Front

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 86 stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

[Editor's note: I used to work twisted rib a little differently to the one described here. I would knit into the back of the knit stitches on right side rows, and purl into the back of the purl stitches on wrong side rows. This leads to very rigidly defined columns of knit stitches on the right side. It looks very attractive but it is less elastic than normal ribbing. ]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) and, joining in contrast white (W), work the two clour pattern rows 1-4 as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.
**

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 4 rows stocking-stitch in R, starting with a knit row.
Before working the rabbit motifs, wind wool on to bobbins - 2 bobbins with W and 1 bobbin R. Join in a separate bobbin W for each rabbit and 1 R bobbin between.
Note: Twist wools on wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

[Editor's note: You might need a second bobbin of red here - if you read later on they suggest you work with 3 bobbins as above and two balls of red - it depends which you find easier..]

Continue in stocking-stitch working from chart over the centre 44 stitches, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.
Your first 2 rows will read :

1st row (right side facing): Knit 21 R.; work centre 44 stitches from chart thus: 4 R, join in W bobbin, 10 W, join in R bobbin, 16 R, join in 2nd bobbin W, 10W., join in a second ball R, 4 R; then knit remaining 21 R.
2nd row: Purl, 21 R; from chart 1R, 13W, 16R, 13W, 1R.; purl remaining 21R.
Continue in this way until 20th row of chart has been worked.
Break W.

With right side facing, continue in R over all stitches and work 4 rows stocking-stitch.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W and work the two-colour pattern rows 1-4 as before. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking-stitch in R, until front measures 8½ inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 11½ inches.

With right side facing, shape neck:

Next row: Knit 26; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 16 stitches remain. Work a few rows straight until front measures 13 ins.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the begining of the next row, then 5 stitches at the begining of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, slip the centre 14 stitches on to a spare needle.
Rejoin wool to remaining 26 stitches and finish to correspond with the first side.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 28 rows stocking-stitch in R, then change to No 0 (3¾mm) needles, and work two-colour rows 1-4 inclusive again. BreakW.
Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue straight in stocking-stitch in R until back matches front at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armholes as for front. [66 stitches]Work 2 rows straight.

With right side facing, divide for back opening.

Next row: Knit 33, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 33 stitches until back matches front at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Leave remaining 17 stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 44 stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W, and work two-colour pattern rows 1-4 inclusive again. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking- stitch in R, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 60 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 9 ins.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck border

Join shoulder seams.
Using the set of No 11 (3mm) needles - or a circular needle - to facilitate working and main wool (R) wool, start at left side of back opening and with right side facing, k17 from spare needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches down left side of front, k14 from spare needle at centre, pick up and k15 stitches up right side, k17 from spare needle. [78 sts].

Working backwards and forwards (not in the round), continue as follows:

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and two-colour pattern.

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 7 rows stocking stitch in R, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Fold neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Buttonhole Band
With No 11 (3mm) needles, R wool, and right side facing, pick up and knit 30 stitches down right side of back opening.
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: * k2, wool forward, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit.
Cast off loosely.
Work.a row of double crochet in R down left side of opening.
Catch down border neatly to main work at start of opening.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
With black wool embroider eye and nose of each rabbit as illustrated.
Press all seams and neck border lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Trousers

Right Half

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R), cast on 82 stitches loosely and work 12 rows stocking-stitch, starting with knit row.

Make a hem on the next row by folding the work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Next row: Purl.

With right side facing, shape back as follows using short row shaping:

Next 2 rows: K10, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K20, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K30, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K40, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K50, turn and purl back,
Next 2 rows: K60, turn and purl back.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and continue in stocking-stitch over all stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until there are 94 stitches.

Work straight until front seam (short edge) measures 8 ins.

With right side facing, shape leg by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 9 rows stocking-stitch. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Left Half

Work as for right half, reversing back shaping, i.e. having wrong instead of right side facing. Your first two rows will read :-
Purl 10, turn and knit back.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join back, front and leg seams, leaving waist hem open on back for elastic.
Turn back last 7 rows round each leg to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position.
Press all seams and hems lightly.
Thread elastic through waist and sew up opening neatly.

Skirt

Back and front alike

With No 11 (3mm) needles and R wool, cast on 154 stitches loosely, and work 6 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next 2 rows: Purl.
The last 2 rows form ridge for hemline.

Change to No 10 (3¼) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Make a hem on next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 st. from cast-on edge all along.

Next row: Purl, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [155 sts]

With right side facing, shape as follows:

Next row (1st decrease row): K14, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k28) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k14. [145 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Next row (2nd decrease row): K13, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k26) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k13. [135 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 10 stitches thus on next and every following 12th row until 6th decrease row has been worked, and 95 stitches remain.
Work 11 rows straight.

Now shape skirt by decreasing 10 stitches as before but on on next and following 6th row [75 sts].
Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 9½ inches down centre.
Next row (wrong side facing): P2tog, purl to end. [74 sts]

Change to k1/p1 rib and work 1 inch, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing at waistband.
Join side seams. Cut elastic to fit waist and join. Then sew in position inside waist ribbing using herring bone stitch for casing.
Press seams.

Materials

8ozs 4ply in Lipstick Red and 1oz in Snow White for either set.

Pair each No 11 (3mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Set of 4 each No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

5 buttons

Length of ½-inch wide elastic to fit waist.

Small amount of black wool to embroider eyes and nose on motifs.

Bobbins for two-colour pattern. (For example EZ Bobs or make your own - instructions below)

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¼mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.
Jumper: To fit 23- 24 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 13 inches; sleeve seam 9 inches.
Shorts
: width round widest part, 27 inches; length of front seam 8 inches.
Skirt
: length, 10% inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Bunny Motif Chart


To Make a Bobbin

Cut shape from stiff cardboard as in the diagram above, 2.5 inches deep and 2.6 inches wide. Cut out the hole and cut a slit in the top. Wind the wool on to the bobbin as shown in the diagram on the right, and pass through the slit as many times as required.

August 2013

Pretty bolero for a toddler

PrettyBolero.jpg

The bolero as such a popular wardrobe accessory for women in the 1950s - it went with all those off-the-shoulder/strapless little numbers (see footnote **) which was the only way to make them respectable day-wear.
This toddler adaptation with its cute puffy sleeves was clearly intended for a little girl.

Instructions

The instructions are for two sizes - the larger size is given in bold blue in curly brackets thus: "Intended to fit 1{2} year old.".
Where one set of figures is given, this applies to both sizes.

Back

With No.10 needles and main shade (M), cast on 70 {76} sts and work straight in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until back measures 2¼ {} inches.

With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following alternate row until 58{64} sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 5¾ {} inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 {9} sts. at beginning of next 4 rows. Cast off remaining 26 {28} sts. loosely.

Left front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 18 {21} sts and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Continue in stocking stitch, shaping the front edge by increasing 1 stitch at the end of the next row, then at this edge on every following row until there are 27 {30} sts.
Work straight until front matches back at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following alternate row until 21 {24} sts. remain.
Work 4 rows straight.
With wrong side facing, start to shape front edge by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, then at this edge on every following 3rd row until 16 {18} sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 {9} sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, (the armhole edge).

Right front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 43 {43} sts and purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and increase 21 sts on next row thus:
k1, * increase in next stitch, k1; repeat from * to end. [64 {64} sts].
Work straight until sleeve measures 1¾ inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 sts remain.

Next row (right side facing): k2tog, across entire row.
Next row: p1, * p2tog; repeat from * to end.
Cast off remaining 10 sts.

Borders

Join shoulder seams.

Main border: With No. 12 needles and contrast yarn C, cast on 7 sts and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Using contrast C, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: k1, p1, k3, p1, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row.
4th row: as 2nd row.
5th row: as 1st row.
6th row: k1, p1, k1; now join in M and make bobble by working (k1, p1, k1, p1) all into next stitch; now slip 2nd, 3rd and 4th sts over 1st and off needle; leave M yarn hanging, and pick up the contrast yarn C, k1, p1, k1.
Twist yarns at back of work when changing colour to avoid a hole and carry M loosely up back of work.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until strip fits all round bolero edge from centre back of neck. Cast off.

Pin in position as you go along

Sleeve Borders: In the same way work a strip in the pattern to fit all round each sleeve edge.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts gently on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Sew main border in position, joining edges at back of neck.
Sew on sleeve borders, joining ends in line with sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 {2} ozs Patons Beehive Fin-
gering 3-ply in main shade (Beau Blue) and 1{1} oz in white.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Width all round at underarm. 18 {20} inches; length from top of shoulders, 6½ {7} ins; sleeve seam, 2½ {} ins.

A word on the wool.

I used some vintage 3 ply yarn which had no label (but I believe is wool) for the main shade, and some Patons pure wool 3ply in white for the contrast.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


**Footnote: Have you seen Dana Wynter's outfit at the start of Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1956)?? Here - take a peek - it did have a bolero but she immediately removed it on entering the room.

BoleroDress.jpg

All this for a visit to the dentist - ok,ok, he was her old boyfriend whom she was trying to impress....

July 2013

Crochet Bootees for a Special Baby

CrochetBootees.jpg

Well - it's so much talked about I could not let it pass without a little commemoration could I?
Just make sure you make them for your own special baby - I am sure the Palace is exploding with little woolly items (and in one of the hottest month's on record...).

This crochet pattern is a staggered shell, which I found a little tricky to follow, so use the detail photo at the end for guidance as to what it should look like.

Instructions.

Special pattern stitch:
Picot: make 5 ch, then work 1 dc into 2nd of these 5 ch

And a reminder of English crochet stitches:

Double crochet: draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble: pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble: (not used in this pattern) pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loopthrough first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

Bootees (make 2)

Beginning at the sole: make 15(17;20;23)ch loosely.

1st round: Miss 3 ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 d tr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 9 dtr in last ch.
Now, work along other side of ch, working 1 dtr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 4 tr in same place as first 3 tr; sl st into 3rd ch at beginning to join the round.

2nd round: 3 ch, "inc", 1 tr in next st, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) 4 times, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) twice, sl st in 3rd ch at beginning. You now have 46(50;56;62) tr, counting the initial 3 ch as 1 tr.

3rd round: Working into the back loops only (leaves a ridge to mark sole): 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beginning.

4th round: 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg.

Repeat the 4th round 0(0;1;1) time(s).

Shape Instep

You are now going to work back and forth across the instep in rows.

1st row: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 28(30;33;36) tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.
2nd row: Miss 2 sl sts, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.

Repeat the 2nd row 4(4;4;6) times.

Next row: Miss 2 sl st, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg of 1st row to rejoin the round. You now have 28(32;38;38) tr.

Next round: 4 ch, miss 1(1;2;2) tr, 1 tr in next tr, * 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, repeat from * to last 1(1;2;2) sts, miss last 1(1;2;2) sts, sl st in 3rd of 4 ch to join the round. You now have 14(16;18;18) holes.

Next round: 1 ch, 1 dc in same place as sl st, * 1 dc in next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in next tr, repeat from * to last ch sp, 1 dc in 1 ch sp, 1 dc in same place as first dc, DO NOT JOIN the round.
You now have 29(33;37;37) dc.

Turn, and work in rows as follows:

First size only:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc *; repeat from * to * (0;1;1) times; 3ch, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc (3;1;1) times; repeat from * to * (1;2;2) times, ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

All sizes: You now have 4(5;5;5) patterns.

2nd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first dc, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in last dc instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

3rd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Repeat the 3rd row 1(1;3;3) times.

Next row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, miss 1 sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Next row: (3 ch, 2 tr) in first tr, * miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * to last pattern, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, 3 tr in top of turning ch, "Picot". Fasten off.

Make Up

Using a flat seam, join back seam.
Thread ribbon through holes at ankle.
It is recommended not to press these bootees, owing to the crochet texture.

Materials

1 ball 3ply.

3mm crochet hook.

1m of ribbon

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes: length of sole 7(8;9;11) cm

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
htr: half treble
dtr: double treble

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;
inc: increase - work 2 tr in next tr
dec: decrease - (yoh, draw up a loop in next st, yoh and draw through first 2 loops on hook) twice, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Picture of pattern detail:

CrochetBootees.jpg

Knitted Bootees for a Special Baby

KnittedBootees.jpg

Well - it's so much talked about I could not let it pass without a little commemoration could I?
Just make sure you make them for your own special baby - I am sure the Palace is exploding with little woolly items (and in one of the hottest month's on record...).

This is the knitted set which is fairly plain with a discreet eyelet pattern, and should be quite simple to make.

Bootees (make 2)

With No 10 needles, cast on 33 sts. and knit 1 row.

1st - 4th rows: Knit.
5th row (eyelet row): K1; (yfwd., k2tog) 16 times.
6th - 8th rows: Knit.
9th row: Knit.
10th row (eyelet row): K1; (yfwd., k2tog) 16 times.
11th - 20th rows: as 1st to 10th rows inclusive.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

Next row: as 5th row.
Next row: as 10th row.
Next row: K23. Turn.
Next row: K1; p11; k1.

Work 14 rows in stocking stitch on these 13 sts.
Break off yarn.

Rejoin yarn to inside edge of 10 sts, then knit up 10 sts along side of foot; knit across 13 sts on needle, knit up 10 sts from other side of foot, finally knit across remaining 10 sts. [53 sts]
Knit 9 rows (garter stitch - every row knit).

Shape toe:

1st row: (k1, k2tog, k21, k2tog) twice; k1.
2nd row: K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog; k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2tog, k18, k2tog) twice; k1.
4th row: as 2nd row.

Cast off.

Make Up

Press lightly on wrong side. Join seam.
Using 2 lengths of twisted yarn 40 in. long, make a cord and thread through holes at ankle.
Sew a tassel to each end of cord.
Press seams.

Materials

1 25g ball Quickerknit - for example Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino

Pair of No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

26sts x 34 rows to 4 inches on No 9 (3¾mm) needles

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together to decrease a stitch

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2013

Easter Baby Bonnet

EasterBonnetAndMitts.jpg

This looks like a little Victorian cherub, though the pattern is much later. It uses a combination of smooth and fluffy 4 ply yarns in a relatively simple crochet motif.
I think the bonnet is particularly cute.

Instructions:

The items are made by piecing together a basic motif:

Using blue colour (B), make 8 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
1st round: 3 ch, 15 tr into ring; join to top of 3 ch with ss.
Fasten off B.
2nd round: Join in white (W); (1 dc into top of tr, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr into next tr, 1ch, miss 1 tr) 4 times, join to 1 dc with ss.
Fasten off W.
3rd round: Join in B, and work 1 row dc all round.
Fasten off B.

Bonnet:

Make 14 motifs the same and join together as shown in diagram.


Back of bonnet:
Using colour B, make 29 ch.

1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each of next 27 ch
[28dc]

Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until there are 36 dc.
Continue straight until work measures 4 inches from the start.
Shape top of back piece by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 20 dc remain. Fasten off.

Making up the Bonnet:

Pin one edge of front piece up sides and all round top edge of back piece. With right side of work facing and B, crochet the 2 pieces together but working 4 dc into edge of back piece only between motifs Fasten off.
Using B, l work 2 rows dc along front edge of motifs.
Make 2 twisted cords in B about 8½ inches long, and sew one to each corner. Make 2 small tassels in W and sew to ends of cords.

Mitts:

Starting with the front of the mitts:

Using B, make 21 ch
1st row: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then 19 dc along other side of ch, turn.
2nd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc. [43 stitches]
3rd row: 18 dc in 18 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 18 dc in 18 dc.
4th row: 22 dc in 22 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc, 22 dc in 22 dc.
5th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
6th row: 21 dc in 21 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 5 dc in 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 21 dc in 21 dc.
7th row: 25 dc in 25 dc, 3 dc in 1 dc,.25 dc in 25 dc.
8th row: 24 dc in 24 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 24 dc in 24 dc.
9th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 7 dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
10th row: 23 dc in 23 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 9 dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc, 23 dc in 23 dc.
Fasten off.

Now work the back of the mitts:

Work 2 motifs as given for bonnet and join together as before.

With right side of motifs facing, start in corner and work along one long edge as follows:-
9 dc across 1st motif, 3 ch across space, 9 dc across 2nd motif.
Now work along top (short edge) work 5 dc, 3 dc into centre stitch, 5 dc
Continue down other side with 9 dc, 3 ch, 9 dc. [55 stitches]

Turn and work 9th and 10th rows as given for front of mitt.
Fasten off.

Thumb: Using B, make 2 ch.
1st row: 1 dc into 1st ch, 1 ch, turn.
2nd row: 1 dc into 1st dc, 2 dc into turning ch, 1 ch, turn. (3 dc)
Continue in dc increasing 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until there are 11 dc.
Work 2 rows in dc.
Mark last row with a coloured thread.
Continue straight in dc for a further 1 inch.
Shape top.
Next row: miss 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 dc all along. [5 dc]
Fasten off.

Join thumb seam from top down as far as marker.
Starting at cuff edge, stitch thumb gusset in position between front and back, then join rest of mitt together.

Cuff.
Using B, work 40 dc all round lower edge of mitt.
Next round: 1 dc in 1 dc all round.
Next row (make holes for cord): (2 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch, miss 2 dc) 10 times, join with ss. to 1st dc.
Work a further 6 rounds dc.
Fasten off.

Making up the mitts:

Make another mitt in the same way but inserting thumb on opposite side to first mitt when making up.
Using W, make 2 twisted cords; thread through holes round wrists to tie at back.

Materials

2 ozs 4 ply, in Powder Blue and
1 oz angora 4 ply in White

One No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each motif measures about 2 inches square. 6½ dc to an inch over plain dc.

Size matters

Bonnet: All round front edge measures 15½ inches.
Mitts: Length 5½ inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
ss: slip stitch

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Beehive 4ply and Fuzzy Wuzzy angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2013

Heirloom shawl

HeirloomShawlC.jpg

A lace baby shawl made in a 3 ply fingering weight, which makes it a bit more feasible to contemplate as a viable project than the traditional 2 ply, while yet remaining fine and lacey. Added to that, it is made up in sections, rather than a single piece which makes it easier to handle, with all the decreasing lace stitches.

Note added September 2018: since I first transposed this pattern I have had a number of queries so I have recently checked the pattern by knitting it myself from the instructions, and as a consequence corrected some scripting errors (random capital letters and typos), plus I have added the number of stitches after each alternate pattern row on the border pieces. I hope this will help, because despite the fact that the stitches overall are gradually decreasing, on some rows the stitch count increases.
I hope I have caught all the remaining issues, but, as ever, I always welcome anyone sharing any problems they may encounter while knitting it.

Instructions

The shawl is made in 5 pieces: first a centre square, and then 4 mitred borders that are sewn on each side of the centre.

Centre Square

With No 8 needles, cast on 162 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch), sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: k1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, (k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch); repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat the last 4 rows until work measures 21 inches.
Cast off.

Borders (make 4)

With No 9 needles, cast on 206 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
3rd row: knit.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows twice more [200 sts].

Change to pattern as follows:-

1st row: p2tog, p4, k2tog, wrn, p2, * (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2, p2tog. [186 sts]
2nd row: k5, p2, k2, * p7, (k1, p3)twice, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k3.
3rd row: p2tog, p3, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, p1, p2tog. [184 sts]
4th row: k4, p2, k2, * p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k2.
5th row: p2tog, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; rep, from * 5 times more, p2tog. [182 sts]
6th row: k3, p2, k2, * p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
7th row: p2tog, p1, * wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p1, p2tog. [180 sts]
8th row: k2, p2, k2, * p11, k1, p11, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
9th row:
p2tog, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 5 times more, p2tog. [178 sts]
10th row: k1, p2, * k2, p25, k2, p2; repeat from * 5 times more, k1.
11th row: k2tog, k1, * p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, k1, k2tog. [176 sts]
12th row: * p2, k2, p6, k1, p11, k1, p6, k2; repeat from * 5 times more, p2.
13th row: k2tog, * p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 4 times more, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, (p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog) twice, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog. [174 sts]
14th row: * p1, k2, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, p7, k2, p1; repeat from * to end.
15th row: p2tog, p1, * k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, pl, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p1, p2tog. [172 sts]
16th row: * k2, p8, k1, (p2, k1) twice, p8, k2, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, p8, k1,(p2, k1) twice, p8, k2.
17th row: p2tog, * k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2tog. [170 sts]
18th row: k1, * p9, k1,(p1, k1) twice, p9, k2, p2, k2; repeat from * 4 times more, p9, k1, (p1, k1) twice, p9, k1.
19th row: k2tog, wfd., k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, * p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * 4 times more, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k2tog. [168 sts]
20th row: p11, * k1, p11, k2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, p11.
21st row: k2tog, k8, * wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k9; repeat from * 4 times more, wfd, sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k8, k2tog. [176 sts]
22nd row: p10, * p13, k2, p2, k2, p12; repeat from * 4 times more, p11.
23rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, * k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd; repeat from * 4 times more, k1, wfd., k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog. [174 sts]
24th row: p15, * k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k1, p11; repeat from * 4 times more, p4.
25th row: k2tog, k7, p1, * sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k2, (wfd, k1) twice, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, (k1, wfd) twice, k2, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k7, k2tog. [162 sts]
26th row: p8, k1, * p3, k1, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k1, p3, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p8.
27th row: k2tog, k6, p1, * k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, wfd, k1, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k6, k2tog. [160 sts]
28th row: p7, k1, * p2, k1, p8, k2, p2, k2, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * ending p7.
29th row: k2tog, k5, p1, * k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k5, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, p2, k1, wfd, k5, wfd, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k5, k2tog. [158 sts]
30th row: p6, k1, * p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p6.
31st row: k2tog, k4, p1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k7, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k7, wfd, s1, k2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * 4 times more, k4, k2tog. [156 sts]
32nd row: p5, k1, * p11, k2, p2, k2, p11, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, p5.
33rd row: k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn, * p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd., sl1, k2tog, psso, wfd, k9, wfd, k1, p2, k2tog, wrn; repeat from * 3 times more, p2, k1, wfd, k9, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog. [164 sts]
34th row: p17, * k2, p2, k2, p25; repeat from * 3 times more, k2, p2, k2, p17.
35th row: k2tog, k3, * wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1, p2, wfd, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k1, wfd, k3, k2tog, p1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, wfd, k1; repeat from * 4 times more, k2, k2tog. [162 sts]
36th row: p4, * p5, k1, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6 k1, p6; repeat from * 4 times more, p3.

Cast off 162 stitches.

Make 3 more pieces the same.

To Make Up

Pin parts out and press very lightly under a damp cloth (so not to flatten the pattern stitches too much).
Join borders very neatly to centre square, then join corners of border.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3 ply Patons Baby Wool.

A pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

In stocking stitch: 26 stitches. and 34 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles.
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

32 inches square.

Abbreviations

wrn: "wool round needle"; make an extra stitch by winding the wool around the needle (which forms a small pattern hole when worked on the next row).
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.


sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).


k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A word on the wool.

The original pattern calls for Patons "Beehive" which is no longer available but Patons do a range of 3 ply baby wools.

Patons Dreamtime Fairytale is 100% wool available in 6 pastel shades; wash at 30°; 50g ball, 230m/252 yards.

They also make Fairytale 3 ply (not "Dreamtime"), which is a mix of acrylic and nylon in white only. Maybe not so perfect for an heirloom shawl.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2012

Nursery Slippers

NurserySlippers.jpg

Toddler slippers for a quickly knitted Christmas gift. The top of each slipper is knitted, and is designed to be attached to a purchased leather sole. You could make your own out of leather (but be prepared to line it - perhaps with quilt batting and fabric, fleece fabric, or a shaped piece of knitting. If you design your own knitted sole you can make it non-slip by sewing on sole-shaped cut-outs from cushioned fabric ("slip-a-grip"); various brand options can be purchased on a roll from kitchen suppliers, or you can buy specialist sewing fabrics for this purpose.
Below I've added a great You Tube link for instructions on how to make your own non-slip soles.

Instructions

Both slippers are worked alike. The following special abbreviation is used throughout the pattern, making a wide ribbed cable.

Tie 5: Insert right-hand needle between 5th and 6th stitches from point of left-hand needle, draw loop through and place on point of left-hand needle, then k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1.


Both slippers are worked alike,

Slipper (make 2)

With No 11 needles, cast on 45 stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.
Break wool.

Slip first and last 6 stitches on safety-pins for heel.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the centre 33 stitches and with No 9 needles continue in pattern for instep as follows:-

1st row: p4, (rib 5, p5) twice, rib 5, p4.
2nd row: k4, (rib 5, k5) twice, rib 5, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

5th row: p4, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p.4.
6th row: as 2nd row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice more.

11th row: p4, rib 5, p5, tie 5, p5, rib 5, p4.
12th row: as 2nd row.

These 12 rows form pattern.

Repeat, them once more, then rows 1-6 inclusive again.

Continue in pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and following 2 alternate rows: 27 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 15 stitches remain. Cast off.

Join side edges of ribbing to form back seam.

For the heel:
Place the two sets of 6 stitches on a No 11 needle. With No 9
needles and right side facing, work in reversed stocking-
stitch as follows:-

Next row: p twice in 1st Stitch, p to last stitch, p twice in last stitch.
Next row: knit. Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 26 stitches ending with a knit row. Cast off.

Finishing

Pin out patterned part and heel of each slipper and press on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Sew slanting side edges of heel piece along side edge of instep piece as far as they will go without stretching; press seams.
Join back seam.

Pin tops to slipper soles and sew firmly in position.

Materials

2oz Double Knitting yarn in Lipstck Red.

One pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

A pair of size 8 soles (about 25 or 26 european size).
[Editor's note: You can try a search for "knitted slipper soles". I came up with this one.

Tension

23 stitches by 31 rows to 4 inches over stocking stich on 3¾mm needles

Size matters

Designed "for a toddler" with some flexibility as to the size of sole chosen. For a larger slipper, experiment with thicker yarn and fit to a larger sole.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn recommended was a standard double knitting. Despite the tension being very slightly tighter than usual due to the 3¾mm needles used, I think a slightly heavier weight - an Aran weight perhaps - would be quite acceptable. A tighter fabric for slippers is probably more desirable.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2012

Reindeer jacket (for a small boy...or girl)

Florence.jpg

This looks so cute and would make a lovely Christmas cardigan for a toddler. The fair-isle design is not too challenging and hopefully you have plenty of time to knit for this year's festivities.
One size only I'm afraid, but you could increase it slightly by increasing the yarn weight and needle size.

This was beautifully knitted by Sara for her daughter, who also models it. The original (boy) model seen after the pattern instructions.

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately at the armholes.

Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.

Back and Fronts:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 sts.
1st row: K1, * p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: Pl, * k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue in rib, working stripes as follows:
6 more rows Medium (8 in total from start),
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
2 rows Medium.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work remainder of Back and Fronts in stocking stitch, (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive. from Chart A, reading chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.

Chart A

Starting with a knit row, work:
3 rows Light,
11 rows Medium,
2 rows Light.

Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right- hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how this is supposed ot work out. You are starting with a right side knit row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]

Chart B (slightly larger picture at end)

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (2lst row of Chart B): K26 in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light; (1st left on needle after cast-off), k25sts in Light, k1 st in Dark, k26 sts in Light, cast off 11 sts in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off), knit remaining 25 sts in Light.

Turn and proceed on the first group of 26 sts. for Left Front, shaping the armhole and front slope as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P2 in Dark, p24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of sts. on to length of wool, spare needles, or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.

Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit to end.

Work 8 rows in Medium, decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the 4th row.

Shape neck as follows:
Next row: Using Medium, p2tog, purl to end.

Work 3 rows in Light, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row. [20 sts]

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [19 sts]

Chart C

Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [18 sts]

Neck shaping is now complete.

Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these sts. until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.

Back:

Slip the group of 53 sts back on to the working needles, and with wrong side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): P24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): k26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: P53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [51sts]

Work 3 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. [49sts]

Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.

Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.

Chart D

Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole measures 5 ins, (that is 5 ins from the 11 cast-off sts), finishing at end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining 13 sts on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave to pick up later.

Right Front:

Slip remaining 26 sts back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and with wrong side of work facing proceed for Right Front as for Left Front, reversing all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:

Next row (22nd row of Chart B): Purl 24 in Light, 2 in Dark.
Work 2 rows Light.
Next row: Using Light, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Sleeves

[Editor's note: The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or repairs).]

Using No 7 needles and Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 sts.
Working in stocking stitch. knit 8 rows in Medium and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.

Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E.

Chart E

Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.


Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D.
Work 3 rows in Light, 6 rows in Medium.

Next row: Using Medium, (p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog) 7 times. [35 sts]

Change to No 8 needles, and commence the cuff, working stripes in rib as for back and fronts welt as follows:
2 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
4 rows Medium,
2 rows Light,
8 rows Medium.
Cast off in rib.

Back Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium slip 13 sts. from Back neck on to the working needles, and with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on welts, increasing 1 st. at both ends of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 33sts.
Cast off in rib.

Right part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
3rd row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
4th - 9th rows: Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows. [11 sts]
10th row: Knit
11th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: K12, turn.
19th row: Knit
20th row: Knit
21st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
22nd row: Knit
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

Left part of Collar

Using No. 8 needles and Medium, cast on 2 sts.

1st row: Increase in the 1st stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, increase in the next stitch, k1.
3rd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
4th row: Knit to the last 2 sts, increase in next stitch, k1.
5th - 8th rows: Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows.
9th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
10th row: Knit
11th row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
12th - 17th rows: Repeat the 10th and 11th rows. [15 sts]
18th row: Knit
19th row: K12, turn.
20th row: Knit
21st row: Knit
22nd row: Increase in the 1st stitch, knit to end.
23rd row: Knit

Repeat the last 6 rows 3 times. [19 sts]

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position.

Using a flat seam, stitch cast-off edge of Right Portion of Collar to shaped edge of Back Collar noting that turnings should be placed nearest to neck edged. Stitch side of Collar into position.
Complete left portion to match.

Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

Double knitting yarn: 4-5 oz Medium (main shade), 3-4oz Light, 1-2 oz. Dark; actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.

One pair each of No 8 (4mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

12-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual shade not specified.

Tension

22sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 24 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 15 ins
Sleeve seam: 12 ins
Instructions are given for one size only.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland", "Double Quick", or "Totem" brands - all double knittings.

Moorland was a heavier weight DK, but nonetheless I often allow one 50g ball for every oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1 oz is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Chart B

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

June 2012

Baby Shawlette

BabyShawletteFront.jpg

This is so very easy to knit and looks so cute over a (Liberty?) cotton baby frock. No idea how practical it is to keep in place, but it has secure back fastening straps and is perfect as a gift or for that special summer baby occasion.

Instructions

The shawlette is worked in garter stitch (every row knitted) throughout. You start your knitting at the bottom of the back and work up towards the neck, where you divide and complete each front section separately. It is designed to cross over at the front, and button into place at the back.

Using No 12 needles, cast on 50 sts and work in garter stitch for ½ inch (approximately 8-9 rows).

Next row(make eyelets): K6; ** wrn, k2tog; repeat from ** to last 6 sts; k6.
Next row:
Knit.

Start to shape the back as follows:

1st row: K6, wrn; knit to last 6 sts; wrn, k6.
2nd row: Knit

Repeat these two rows, (increasing 2 sts on each alternate row), until there are 115 sts. Your work then measures approximately 5¾ inches from the beginning.

Now start to shape the right front, working each side of the neck separately.

Next row: K6, wrn, k40, turn.
Leave the remaining 69 sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, wrn, k2tog; knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, wrn, k3tog, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: Knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k2tog, k5").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches.

Next row (make buttonhole): K2, cast off 2, knit 2.
Next row: K2, cast on 2 over those cast off, knit 2.
Next row: K2tog, k2, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog and pull thread through to cast off.

Now pick up the sts left on the spare needle and join yarn to neck edge where you left off. Cast off 23 sts then, start to shape the left front, by knitting to the last 6sts, wrn, k6 [47 sts].

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to last 8sts; s1,k1,psso; wrn, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, s2,k1,pass 2 slipped sts over; wrn, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to end

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k5, s1,k1,psso").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches, and finishing with a buttonhole as for the right front.

To Make Up

Do not block or press.
Sew in all ends.
Sew buttons to back to attach front straps.

Materials

1 x 40g ball 4ply fingering yarn.

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm ) needles.

2 small buttons.

Tension

30sts x 58rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Size matters

To fit 3-6 months (18-19 inch chest).

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend.
You could use beautifully soft Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, or experiment to make a larger size using Baby Cashmerino (check out with a swatch for both needle size and drape).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here's a view showing you the back.

BabyShawletteBack.jpg

January 2012

Isobel's Little Blanket

IsobelsBlanket.jpg

This is small blanket or cot cover made from 12 crochet squares in chunky yarn (so quick to make). It's based the usual granny-square principle, but a very pretty example of it incorporating the central flower motif.

Instructions

There are a couple of new stitches used in this pattern, as well as basic chain, dc, and treble. There is a "cluster" used in making the central flower, and crab stitch for the edging.

Make cluster:

Working all into the same stitch, **yoh, draw through loop **; repeat from ** to ** 4 times (9 loops on hook); yoh, draw loop through all loops on hook; yoh, draw loop through stitch on hook.
[Editor's note: This last stitch is just "1 chain".]

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right. It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

Motif (make 12)

Starting at the centre of the square: using 7mm hook and first contrast, (plum), make 6ch and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
2nd round: **1 cluster in first dc, 3ch; 1 cluster in next dc, 1ch **; repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first st.
Change to second contrast (cream).
3rd round: Insert hook in first 3-chain space and make 2 chain for first treble; **2tr in same space, 3ch; 3tr in same space, 1ch; 3tr in next 1-chain space, 1ch; 1tr in next 3-chain space, ** repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, omitting the very last tr in the repeated sequence, and join with a slip stitch to top of first chains.
Change to third contrast (lime).
4th round: 1 dc **1dc over each of next 3tr, 3dc into next 3-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space;**. Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.

Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

IsobelsBlanket_detail.jpg

To Make Up

Make 12 squares altogether.

With 7mm hook and 3rd contrast (lime), join 2 squares together; hold right sides together and slip stitch through the back loop of each dc, leaving the front loops exposed as a decorative ridge on the right side (see photos).
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant here, try experimenting. There is a loop on each side of a crochet stitch; usually when placing a stitch on top on the next row, you push your hook through both loops, but for some decorative sts, you are asked to use either only the back or only the front loops in order to create a ridge, Whatever you end up doing, just make sure you are consistent, so that you get a nice consistent pattern emerging.]

Join 3 squares in a row, then join the 4 rows together.

Finally, using first contrast (plum) and right side facing, work a row of dc all around the blanket, and work 2 or 3sts into the 4 corner sts, to make it curve properly. Then, keeping the right side facing you, change to a 6mm hook and go back the way you came, working one row of crab stitch right to left.

Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of chunky in each of first and second contrast and 1 ball in third contrast.


One No 2 (7mm) and one No 4 (6mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each square is intended to measure 4¾ inches.

Size matters

To fit cot, pram, or Moses basket.

Abbreviations

yoh: yarn over hook.
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original yarn produces a tension of 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch. You can substitute an Aran weight yarn worked double throughout, though this is less easy to work with for crochet patterns.

I used Patons Pompero a chunky yarn, knitting to a tension of 16sts x 22 rows to 4 ins, which is thinner, though I used a 7mm hook with it.

Result of my yarn choice is a smaller blanket, requiring only one ball in each colour.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch,
(a picture painting a thousand words and so on).

October 2011

Jacob's Sleeping Bag of Many Colours

JacobsBag.jpg

This is a vintage baby-bag pattern probably intended for babies up to 3 months in age. It's very simple to knit and fastened around the edge with easy poppers. It's tempting to knit this in beautiful, soft, lofty yarns - however, it does need to be washable, if not so very hard wearing.
OK - maybe not so many colours - but so cute!

Instructions

The striped pattern is worked as follows:

1st row: Knit in main shade
2nd - 11th rows: Knit in first contrast
12th row:
Knit in main shade
13th - 22nd rows: Knit in second contrast

These 22 rows are repeated to form the striped pattern.

Body

The body is worked in one piece; you start off knitting short, shaped pieces for the back and front separately then join them both onto one needle. The pattern as written should work out that the stripes match up when you join them together - make sure they do - and you may want to use a circular needle for the 86 stitches in chunky yarn.

Back:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and second contrast (Pink), cast on 25 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 4 rows in pink, 1 row in main (White), 9 rows in first contrast (Sky Blue) and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.

Change to blue yarn for 9 rows:
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
13th row: Knit
14th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [45 sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th row: Knit.

Change to pink yarn and work in sts for 5 rows starting with a purl row.
Leave the sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.
[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Front:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast (Sky Blue), cast on 23 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 6 rows in blue contrast, 1 row in main (White), and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.

Change to pink yarn:
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Knit
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [41 sts]

[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Right side facing, continuing in pink yarn, knit 41sts from front, and then 45 sts from back (stitches on holder). [86 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 20 inches (51cm) - (measure the back segment), ending with a wrong side row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 96-98 rows from start of back. End after 5 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 6th row in blue.]

Right side facing, tie coloured thread or place marker, between the 41st and 42nd sts and between the 84th and 85th sts.

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4sts, work to end, and increase (cast on) 3 sts. [85sts]
Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the front, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Next row(right side facing and keeping striped sequence correct): Cast off 3 sts, k 33 (34sts on needle). Turn, leaving remaining 48sts on a spare needle.

2nd row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [32sts]
3rd row: Cast off 3sts, knit to end. [29sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [27sts]

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th row(and every following knit row up to and including row 13): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row(and every following purl row, up to and including row 14): Decrease 1 stitch, purl to end. [12sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th: Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [11sts]

Change to blue yarn for rest of front:
16th -23rd rows (every row): Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [3sts]
24th row (wrong side facing): Purl (no shaping).
25th row: Decrease 1 stitch, knit to end. [2sts]

The front should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Back raglan shaping:

With right side facing, take up 43sts of the back and leave the remaing 5 sts at the end of the row on a holder.
[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the back, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Keeping striped sequence correct work as follows: cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and one stitch at the beginning of the next 16 rows.
Cast off remaining 15 sts.

With right side facing, take up the remaining 5 sts on the holder, and keeping striped sequence correct work as follows:
[Editor's note: right side facing to begin 8th row of pattern in blue.]

1st row (right side facing): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
2nd row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th and every alternate row until row 13: Decrease 1 st, knit to end.
6th and every alternate row until row 12: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
14th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

Change to blue yarn to complete:
15th - 22nd row (every row): Decrease 1 st, work to end.
23rd row: Knit
24th row:
Decrease 1 st, purl to end.
25th row: Knit
26th row: Decrease 1 st, purl to end.

The work should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Here's a photo of what it looks like (Figure 1):

 

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 26sts. and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, ending with a wrong side row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and striped stocking stitch starting with 1 row of main shade (White). Then work in blue as follows:

2nd - 10th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
11th row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [28sts]

12th row: Purl one row in white.

13th - 20th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
21st row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [30sts]
22nd row: Purl one row in blue.

23rd row: Knit one row in white.

Work 7 rows straight in blue. Work measures 7ins (18cm), ending with right side facing to start raglan shaping.
[Editor's note: Make sure that the pattern sequence matches that of back and front at start of raglan shaping.]

Shape raglan by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1st at each end of every following 3rd row, twice, 6 sts remain.

Cast off.

Hood

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast, cast on 17 sts and work in striped pattern starting with 3 rows of the first contrast.
Continue following the striped sequence until work measures until work measures 6¾ins (17cm), ending with wrong side row, and 6 rows of second contrast.

Cast on 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [39 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 11½ins (29cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of second contrast.

Cast off 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [17 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 18ins (46cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of first contrast.

Cast off.

Here's a photo showing how the hood looks (Figure 2):

 

Front and Hood Band:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 211sts and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, arranged as follows:

1st row: K2 * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: P2 * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch; p1.

End with a wrong side row.

Next row: Knit and leave sts on a holder.

To Make Up

Sew up sleeve seams, and sew raglan seams together.
The left sleeve front seam is from F to Sl and the back seam is from G to Sl; the 6 cast-off sts of the sleeve head sits between F and G (refer back to Figure 1); likewise the right sleeve is set in H-Sr and A-Sr, and the right sleeve head sits between H and A.

Sew up hood seams, bringing together points G and H to make the hood shape as shown in Figure 2 and then sew the back of the hood to the back neck of the body between points G and H in Figure 1.
Sew the left side of the hood from G to F across top of sleeve head and then across to E ending about an inch away from the point E.
Sew the right side of the hood from H to A across top of sleeve head and then a further 2 inches or so down towards B.

With No 6 (5mm) hook and main shade work 2 rows dc along edge of sleeping bag back from E to D and all around to C (refer back to Figure 1), working tightly across the bottom of the back section so that it is slightly gathered and curls up to form the bottom of the bag.
[Editor's note: You also need to work tightly and gather up the corner between E and D near Sl in figure 1.]

Here's a photo of the bottom section of the back of the bag (Figure 3):

Sew on front and hood band stitch by stitch from C all around to A and then around edge of hood from A to E fitting the edge of the band into the corner by the edge of the hood, at point E.

Sew on snap fasteners evenly from C to D to E on right side of work and from A to B to C on wrong side edge of front.

Press all seams heartily. (That is: carefully with a damp cloth).

Sew on decorative buttons if required.

Materials

3 x 50g balls chunky yarn in main colour, (this is the colour of the edging and narrow stripes), and 4 balls each in 2 contrast collours.

A pair each of No 6 (5mm) and a No 4 (6mm) needles.
One No 6 (5mm) crochet hook.

10-12 x 17mm snap fasteners

9 optional decorative buttons.

Tension

13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round: 25 ins, (64cm); Length from back neck: 25½ ins (65cm).

Abbreviations

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The chunky yarn knits to a tension of tension 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.
You can substitute an Aran weight yarn knitted double throughout, (check your tension with a swatch).

I used King Cole Comfort Chunky (100g balls) - 2 balls of each in colours: soft pink, ice, and white.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

July 2011

Miss Muffet Pinny

MuffetPinny.jpg

All dressed up in a charming pinafore, suitable for a spring or summer celebration, perhaps, in a lighter cotton-blend 4ply. Alternatively, try an angora or mohair blend for a more wintry festive feel.
The pattern for the dress underneath is also given, although, today, we seem to be fully equipped with central heating everywhere, so this combination may prove to be too hot for most children.

Instructions

The pinafore is worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Panel Pattern over 5 stitches:

1st row: k2, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k1
2nd and every alternate row: purl
3rd row: k1, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1
5th row: as first row
7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows: knit
16th row:as second row
These 16 rows form panel pattern.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 223/239/255 sts. and work 5 rows garter-stitch, that is: every row knit.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows :

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
5th row: k6, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
9th row: knit.
11th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
13th row: k2, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2.
15th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
16th row: as second row

Shape skirt and place panel pattern as follows:

1st decrease row: k5/13/5, (panel pattern 5 as 1st row, k5, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, panel pattern 5 as 1 st row, k5/13/5. [210/226/240 sts]

Keeping continuity of panel pattern, work 11/17/25 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5. [197/213/225 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k3) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5 [184/200/210 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

1st and 2nd sizes: Continue decreasing 13 sts thus on next and following 16th/18th row [158/174 sts].
3rd size: Continue decreasing 15sts thus on next row [195 sts].

All sizes:
Next row (wrong side facing): p18/14/6, p2tog, (p28/34/18, p2tog) 4/4/9 times, purl to end [153/169/185 sts].
Work a few rows straight in stocking-stitch until skirt measures 9½/11/12½ inches, ending with wrong side facing.

Divide for front and backs:
Next row: p21/23/25, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 21/23/25 stitches for right back until work measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 15/17/19 sts.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches from holder; cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole), p43/47/51, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 43/47/51 stitches for front until work measures 12/13½/15½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k8/9/10, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder .
Continue straight until left front measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

Work 1 row straight.

Cast off remaining 2/3/4 sts.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remainiing stitches, cast off centre 27/29/31, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches on holder, cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole) purl to end.

Finish to correspond with right back, reversing shapings.

Shoulder Frills:

With No 12 needles, cast on 103/111/119 sts. and work 3 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles and work rows 1-15 of pattern as for main part.
1st size: Next row: p5, p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 30 times, p6 [72sts].
2nd and 3rd sizes: Next row: p8/8, (p1, p2tog) 32/34 times, p7/9 [79/85 sts].
All sizes: Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.
Sew cast-off edge of shoulder frill along armhole edge, and sides of frill along cast-off edge at beginning of armhole shaping.

Make borders: With right side facing and 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc up left back, round neck and down right back. increasing and decreasing at corners as required.
Make 4 buttonloops on right back on 2nd row, first to come level with cast-off edge at armhole, 4th to come at neck edge, and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond.
To make a buttonloop: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3/3/4 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

4 small buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Eyelet pattern and sleeve frill detail:

MuffetPinnyDetail.jpg MuffetPinnyDetail2.jpg

... and the little dress

MuffetDress.jpg

This is the plain and simple dress designed to go under Miss Muffet's pinafore.

Instructions

This is an A-line dress, knitted completely plain, with a high round neck and long sleeves.

Back

**
With No 12 needles, cast on 114/120/128 stitches and work 5 rows in garter-stitch, that is, every row knit

Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows straight.

1st decrease row: k26/28/30, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k54/56/60, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k26/28/30. [110/116/124 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k25/27/29, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k25/27/29. [106/112/120 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k24/26/28, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k24/26/28. [102/108/116 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and every following 12th/14th/16th row until 82/88/96 sts; remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 12/13½/15 inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 62/68/72 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 56/60/64 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 14/16/17½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for back opening:
Next row: k28/30/32, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder.

Continue straight on first set of stitches until back measures 16½/18½/20½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 2/3/4 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Leaving remaining 14/15/16 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work straight until front measures 15/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k20/21/22, turn and leave remaining stitches on a stitch-holder.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 14/15/16 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight. Cast off remaining 2/3/4 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 40/44/46 sts. and work 7 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles.
Next row: k1/3/2, m1 , (k2, m1 ) 19/19/21 times, k1/3/2: [60/64/68 sts].
Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve measures 9½/10½/12 inches, ending with right side facing,

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing and No 12 needles, start at top of left back and work as follows:-
Knit 14/15/16 from left back, pick up and k12/14/14 down left side of neck, k16/18/20 from centre front. pick up and k12/14/14 up right side, knit across 14/15/16 stitches from right back [68/76/80 sts].
Work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Cast off.

Left Back Border: With 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc along left back edge.
Right Back Border: Work as for left with the addition of 3 button loops, first to come ½ inch above start of opening, third to come at centre of neckband, and 2nd spaced evenly between.
Mark positions and work loops: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.
Sew on buttons.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Run 1 row shirring elastic directly above garter-stitch cuff. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 4/4/5 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

3 small buttons.

Shirring elastic for cuffs.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 16½/18½/20½ inches; sleeve seam: 9½/10½/12 inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2010

Little Raglan Reefer

RaglanReefer.jpg

Here is a cute little knitted reefer for a small child (6-24months). It dates from pre 1960s where children's knitwear was not inspiring, but as soon as I saw this I wanted to make it - I am a sucker for any nautical theme, especially for kids (and dolls...)

Instructions.

This pattern is given for 2 size options - the instructions for the larger size are blue bold type in curly brackets.

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib as follows:
1st rib row: K2; *p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd rib row: *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times, then 1st row once.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 6) 7 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [63{69}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k11{13}; (p1, k4, ) twice, p1; k11{13}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2F, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2F, p1; p1, C2B, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2B, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until you have completed row 28{32}.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern as you work these rows).

[Editor's note: you should be about to begin Row 5 of the pattern sequence for the smaller size and Row 3 (a cable row) for the larger size.]

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [19{21}sts]
Cast off.

Front

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib for the first 11 rows as you did for the back.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 7) 6 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [62{68}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; (p1, k1, ) 8{9} times; k1.

Turn and continue working on these 40{44}sts to make the left front (these instructions are intended for a boy - see editor's note below) and slip remaining 22{24} sts on to a stitch holder and leave to work later.

[Editor's note: If you want to make this for a girl - maybe in white? - then you will perhaps want to reverse these instructions by working the first 22{24} sts, casting on 20sts and working on these 40{44} sts as written, omitting the button holes. Pick up the rest of the sts to work the right front - and don't forget to work the buttonholes on the right front!]

2nd row: (K1, p1) 9{10} times; purl to the last st, k1.

[Editor's note: The centre panel on each of the front pieces is worked in double moss stitch, and I found it convenient to put a stitch marker after I had worked the first 18{20} sts of row 2, to show the limit of this section.]

3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: K2, (p1, k1) 8{9} times; purl to the last st, k1.
5th row (on which buttonholes are worked): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; p2tog, yrn, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; yfwd, k2tog, k1.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k8{9}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch panel correct throughout, work 16{20} rows, working buttonholes as before on the 9th of these rows (row 21 for both sizes).

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end, and cast on 5 sts.
[Editor's note: This creates the jacket-style revere].

** Keeping continuity of the pattern, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 18{20} sts remain of the moss stitch panel.
Work a further 16{18} rows straight in moss stitch as set.
Cast off.

Completing the other side to make the right front:

Slip the sts from the stitch holder on to a No 10 needle, point facing centre of work (right side facing you), and cast on 18{20}sts. [40{44}sts].
Change to No 8 needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (p1, k1) 9{10} times.
3rd row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (k1, p1) 8{9} times; k2.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch correct throughout, work 17{21} more rows, thus finishing at side edge.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row (wrong side facing): Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]

Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end, cast on 5 sts.

Complete to match the left side of front, working from ** to end.

Right sleeve:

Using No 10 needles, cast on 32{34}sts. Work 13{15} rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 3{4}; (increase in next st, rib 4) 5 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [38{40}sts]

Change to No 8 needles and proceed in stocking stitch with cable panels set as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K3{3}; (p1, k4, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, k4, p1; k3{3}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K3{3}; (p1, C2B, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, C2B, p1; k3{3}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern as on last 6 rows, increasing 1 st at both ends of next and every following 6th row, until there are 50{54}sts; work the extra sts in stocking stitch.
Then work 3{7} rows straight before starting the raglan decreases.

Shape raglan by working rows as you did for the back:

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [6{6}sts]
Cast off.

Right sleeve:

Work as for the right sleeve, but working C2F instead of C2B.

[Editor's note: The sleeves are identical apart from the way the cables twist, and obviously you can choose to sew them into the Reefer in whatever orientation you prefer.]

To Make Up

Block each piece from the wrong side, pressing very lightly using a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.

Join side, raglan, and sleeve seams using a flat seam.
Stitch the collar into position across the sleeve tops and back of the neck, joining the 20 cast-off sts together at the centre back.

Stitch down the 20 cast-on stitches at the waist on the inside.
Attach buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3{4} ozs Patons Quickerknit Baby (wool or bri-nylon).
Sample shown (larger size) used 4 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in navy blue.

A pair each Nos 8 and 10 (4mm and 3¼mm) needles.

Four gold coloured buttons (mine are inexpensive plastic buttons with anchor design).

AnchorButton.jpg

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles. You may need to use a smaller needle to get the right tension using the Baby Cashmerino.

Size matters

Chest 20{22} ins. Length, 9½{10½} ins. Sleeve seam, 6¾{} ins.

Abbreviations

C2F: "cable 2 front". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at front of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

C2B: "cable 2 back". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at back of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: (decrease) slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, or "ssk", slip, slip, knit.

yrn/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn forward.
Makes an extra stitch which forms a buttonhole when knitted on the next row.

 

A word on the wool.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days there are many yarn weight variations without rigid adherence to specific tension schemes, and so light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge for baby knitwear.
I used the No 8 needles as specified in the pattern, and produced a fairly loose fabric; I think the yarn is better suited to No 9 or 10 needles (3¾ mm - 3¼ mm).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

WilliaminReefer1.jpg

WilliaminReefer2.jpg

RaglanReeferB&W.jpg

April 2009

Folk Cardigan for a little girl - or boy..

DucklingCardigan.jpg

Cute cardigan for a little girl with folk pattern of birds. Acceptable enough for a baby boy using a "masculine" colour (blue?!) and adapting the welts from their frilly form to a conventional rib.

Instructions:

The body of the cardigan is knitted in one piece. There are options for a plain welt as well as the frilled version - perhaps to better suit a boy.

Frilled welt:
Cast on 308 sts.

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P4, *m1, p5; repeat from *to end. [124 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 124 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

9th row: K31, place marker; k62, place marker; k31.

Duckling border:
Continue in stocking stitch.
Work the 15 rows from the chart, working left to right on the wrong side rows, and working right to left on the right side rows.

Starting with wrong side facing, set the 31 stitch pattern across the row as follows:
[Editor's note: Weave the unused colour in across the back as you knit. This tends to make the knitting rather tight so make sure you knit loosely - or - use needles one size larger while you knit these 15 rows.].

Row 1: *p1 in blue, p29 in white, p1 in blue*; p0; repeat from * to * twice; p0; repeat from * to *.

Row 15: as row 1.
Break contrast yarn.

Next row: (right side facing) Knit in main shade.
Next row: (wrong side facing) Purl in main shade.

Continue with main shade only stocking stitch until work measures 6 inches, including the frill, ending with a purl row and right side facing for next row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 22 rows in main shade after you have finished the pattern rows.]

Divide for fronts and back:
Next row: (right side facing) S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit 29st; turn. Continue on these 30 sts to make the right front, leaving remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Next row: Purl.
Next row: Knit
Next row: Purl.
Next row: S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Continue without shaping until armhole edge measures 5 inches, ending with a purl row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 40 rows for the armhole.]
Break yarn, leaving sts on a holder for grafting.

Left front:
With right side facing, slip 31sts from the holder for the left front on to a working needle, rejoin the yarn at the armhole edge, and knit 1 row. Leave the centre 62 sts on the holder to pick up later for the back.
Next row: (wrong side facing) P2tog, purl 29; turn.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl
Next row: Knit.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Complete to match the right front, ending with a knit row.

Back:
With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining 62 sts on the holder, and knit across all sts.

Work straight in stocking stitch until back matches fronts at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.

Next row: K21, cast off 20, k21.
Break yarn, leaving two lots of shoulder sts on a holder for grafting.

Join shoulders.
Graft front and back shoulder sts together.

Sleeves (both alike):
Cast on 83 sts, and work frilled welt as follows:

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P1, *m1, p3; repeat from *to last stitch, m1, p1. [39 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 39 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Now join in contrast and work 3 rows as follows.
9th row: K1 in main shade, k2 contrast; * k2 main shade; k2 contrast; repeat from * to end, (stringing the unused yarns as before across the back of the work). Break main shade yarn.
10th row: Purl across row in contrast.
11th row: Rejoin main shade and work as row 9. Break contrast yarn.
12th row: Purl across row in main shade.

Continuing in main shade only, increase one stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row, until there are 61sts. Work straight until sleeve is 8 inches long (including the frill), or to required length.

Cast off loosely, using one size larger needle.

Work second sleeve the same.

Button border:
With right side facing, using the No 9 (3½mm) circular needle as before, commencing at the right front above the frill, pick up and knit 29 sts evenly along straight edge, 29 sts evenly along shaped edge, 20 sts across back neck, then 29 sts evenly along shaped edge of left front, and finally 29 sts evenly along straight edge of left front, ending at top of frill. [136 stitches].

[Editor's note: My method for picking up sts evenly is to pick up 2 sts for every 3 row ends. I use a double pointed needle and slip it into all the alternate row ends - the ones that tend to stick out more as little bumps. Then using my working needle, I knit into 2 bumps from the dpn and then pick up an extra stitch in between the bumps.
The number of stitches you pick up will depend on how many rows you knitted in the body, so if it's not quite 136 it does not matter; you can still follow the instructions below provided you end up with an even number of stitches .]

Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.
Next row: Slip the first stitch; k1, p1, * k2tog; yarn over needle; p1; (k1, p1) 3 times repeat from * twice more, then k2tog; yarn over needle; p1, to make the 4th buttonhole.
Continue in rib as set to end of row.
Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Work one more row in rib, then cast off loosely in rib, using a larger size needle if required.

Making up:
Fold sleeves in half lengthwise, then sew into armholes placing fold at grafted shoulder seam. Join sleeve seams.
Sew in all ends.

Press lightly with a damp cloth.
Sew 4 buttons in position to match buttonholes.

Materials

3 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (125m per 50g ball), in main shade (colour shown Lavender 605).
1 ball contrast.

One circular No 9 (3½mm) needle.

Tension

24sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 9 (3½mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Instructions for 6-12 months size.
Actual chest 22 inches; full length 11 inches; sleeve 8 inches (adjustable).

A word on the wool

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is a lovely yarn, (55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere).
I like the weight of this wool, which is a fine double knitting. It combines the best of optimizing a quick-knit tension with a light weight result, as well as being durable.
Perfect for kids (and adults!).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

DucklingCardigan.jpg


March 2008

Easter Bunnies - slippers

BunnySlippers.jpg

A charming pattern from Alison for a pair of child's slippers, first knitted for her niece, Nancy.

©Alison Pate 2007

Instructions

Work two slippers the same as follows:

Sole and foot - Cast on 28 sts in white
Knit in stockinette for 4.5 inches ( this is the length of the foot from the back of the heel to start of toes)

At start of toes k1p1 rib for 2 inches

Next row: p2 tog across entire row (14 sts)
Next row: repeat: p2 tog across entire row (7 sts)

Draw thread through remaining stitches and secure, leaving a long thread. Sew up the edges of the ribbed section to form the toe. The seam is centred along the top of the foot and will be covered later by the head.

Heel - Pick up 10 stitches from middle of cast on row, leaving 18sts (9 on each side of the 10 you have picked up). You will pick up and incorporate these 18 sts as you work the back of the heel.

Work 15 rows on these 10 sts in stockinette as follows:

Row 1: K9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and knit it together with the last st of the row. Turn.
Row 2: P9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and purl it together with the last st of the row. Turn

Continue in this way for 12 rows in all.

Row 13: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, knitting the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 14: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, purling the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 15: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, and K2 tog repeated across the row.

Bind off remaining 6 stitches.

In sewing the toe centre seam, and working the heel you have pulled up the sides to form the slipper shape.

[Editor's note: If the 'cuff' of the slipper is loose you can work a row of single crochet around the edge of the slipper and pull in the shape a little. I used the pink for this.].

Head - knit 2 in white.

Cast on 10 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [20 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1.5 inches.
Next row: K2tog across the row [10 sts].
Bind off leaving long tail.

Using spare yarn, embroider a pink nose, and crescent shapes for closed eyes, using the picture as a guide.

Loosely stuff head and use long tail to sew around edge and pull in making a small flat ball.

Ears - knit 4 in white and 4 in pink

Cast on 2 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [4 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1 inch.
Next row: K2tog across the row [2 sts].
K2tog and bind off.

Sew a white to a pink ear using blanket stitch.

Finishing - Sew ears firmly to back of head at jaunty angle.
Sew head to slippers covering the seam on the toe section.

Tail - (optional) make 2 small pompoms and attach to heels of slipper.

Materials

Dishcloth cotton - white and pink (Lily Sugar n'Cream cotton.).
I used just over one ball of white and a scrap of pink.

1 pair 5mm needles. .

Tension

20 sts and 26 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles.

Size matters

Fits feet 7" long (age 4 or so).
To adjust the length - knit the plain stockinette section for longer.
To adjust for width cast on more stitches, make sure you increase the heel pick up stitches in proportion.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

© Christina Coutts 2007

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