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Archive entry for March 2012

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March 2012

Norwegian-style Zippers

ZipperedJackets1.jpg

This pair of cool cats are really going places. (You can tell - they've got a map and goggles and a scooter and .... everything.
The jackets are plain stitch with a fair-isle yoke, and as the title suggests, a zip closure at the front. Sizes are not very large as the pattern seems to be intended to appeal to the youth of the day. (Small hope I fear).

"Gay Patterning for him and her in to-days fashion" [sic]

Instructions

Back and fronts are worked separately then joined to work the yoke. A simple pattern around the yoke is worked from the charts. The sleeves are set-in, not raglan.

Back:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 124 {136}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 6 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 10 {8}; repeat from * 10 {14} times; inc. in next st, rib to end. [135 {151}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures 12½ {13¾} ins from the beginning.

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of the next and every alternate row until 103 {113} sts remain. Work 10 {16} rows.

Shape Back Yoke as follows:

Next row: Work across 46 {49} sts, cast off 11{15}; work to end.

Continue on this group of 46 {49} sts as follows:
Cast off 2 sts at the neck edge on every alternate row until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts. until work measures 7½ {8¾} ins from beginning of armhole shaping. Cast off.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of sts, and complete to match the other side.

Right Front:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {70}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ {3¾} ins.

Next row: Rib 8 {5}, * inc. in next st, rib 11 {9}; repeat from * 4 {6} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [69 {77}sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the back up to the armhole, finishing at the side edge (at the end of a knit row).

Shape armholes by casting off 9 {12} sts at the beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next and every alternate row until 53 {58} sts remain.

Continue straight on these sts until work measures 2 {2½} ins from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at the front edge (after a purl row).

Shape Back Yoke by casting off 7 {9} sts at the beginning of the next row. Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of every alternate row at the neck (front) edge until 38 {41} sts remain; then cast off 3 sts on every alternate row until 20 {23} sts remain.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 12 {15} sts remain, then decrease on every alternate row at the neck edge until 3{6} sts. remain.

Continue on these sts until work measures the same as the back up to the cast off. Cast off.

Left Front:

Work to match Right Front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 64 {68}sts
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 {3} ins.

Next row: Rib 5 {6}, * inc. in next st, rib 5 {4}; repeat from * 9 {11} times; increase in the next st, rib to end. [74 {80} sts]

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch increasing 1 st at both ends of the next and every following 8th row until there are 104 {114} sts.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 {18½} ins from the beginning.

Shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next row 6 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next row 8 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 50 {60} sts remain; then decrease 1 st at both ends of every following 3rd row until 26 {36} sts remain.

Cast off 4 {6} sts sts at the beginning of the next row 4 rows.
Cast off.

Front Bands (work 2):

Using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, cast on 5 sts.

1st row: K2, p1, k2
2nd row: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 14½ {16½} ins from the beginning (when slightly stretched). Change to main contrast, Royal Blue {Brown} and continue in rib until Band measures 19 {21} ins, from the beginning (when slightly stretched), finishing at the end of a 2nd row. Slip thesse sts on to safety-pin and leave.
Do not break off wool on 2nd Front Band.

Yoke:

Join back to fronts at the (tiny) shoulder seams.

With right side of work facing, using No 13 (2¼mm) needles and main shade, knit up 289 {369} sts around the yoke, then turn and purl one row.

Work the 1st to 13th rows from Chart A.

Chart A - her colourway

Chart A - his colourway

From here ensure you work the decrease rows according to the size you are knitting.

14th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue p13; (p2tog, p7) 30 times; p6. [259 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p2; (p2 tog, p9) 3 times; (p2tog, p6) 37 times; p2tog; (p9, p2tog) 3 times; p3. [{325} sts].

15th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, klB.

Work the 16th to 23rd rows as rows 1 to 8 from Chart B.

Chart B
Left: her colourway.       Right: his colourway.


24th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p6; (p2tog, p3) 50 times; p3. [209 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p3; (p2 tog, p7) 5 times; (p2tog, p2) 57 times; p2tog; (p7, p2tog) 5 times; p2. [{257} sts].

25th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, klPy.

Work 26th to 37th rows as the 2nd to 13th rows from Chart A.

38th row:
(smaller size): Using Royal Blue, p6; (p2tog, p5) 3 times; (p2tog, p1) 51 times; (p2tog, p5) 4 times; p1. [151 sts]
(larger size): Using Brown, p4; (p2 tog, p3) 10 times; (p2tog, p1) 49 times; p2tog; (p3, p2tog) 10 times; p4. [{187} sts].

39th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1B, k1Py, repeat from * to last stitch, klB.

Work 40th to 47th rows as the 1st to 8th rows from Chart B.

48th row:
(smaller size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p2, (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p4; (p2tog) 40 times; (p3, p2tog) 6 times; p5. [99 sts]
(larger size): Using Pale Yellow (Py), p11, (p2tog) 82 times; p12. . [{105} sts].

49th row (both sizes): Using Brown (B) and Pale Yellow (Py), * k1Py, k1B, repeat from * to last stitch, klPy.

50th row (both sizes): Using Royal Blue {Brown}, Purl.

Slip the 5 sts at the top of the Front Band where the wool was not broken off on to end of the needle containing the Yoke sts.

Proceed for Neckband as follows:

Using Royal Blue {Brown}, k2, p1, k1, p1 across these front band sts; knit across the Yoke sts; slip sts from top of 2nd Band on to empty needle, and p1, k1, p1, k1, k2 across these sts. [109 {115} sts]

1st row: * K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: K2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Rep. these 2 rows until work measures 2 {2} ins from beginning of neckband.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Using a flat seam for the ribbing and a back-stitch seam for the remainder, join side and sleeve seams.

Stitch Sleeves into position.

Flat stitch Front Bands into position.

Fold Neckband at centre and stitch down on wrong side of work. Stitch zip into position.

Press seams.

Materials

12 {14} oz balls in main shade and 2 oz of main contrast and "oddments" (about ½ oz) of each of 5 contrast colours, of 4-ply fingering yarn.

Pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

20 {22} inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length of the zip required.]

Colourways

Ground shade in oatmeal.

His: Brown, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Royal Blue.

Hers: Royal Blue, and oddments of Yellow, Pale yellow, Gold, Red, and Brown.

Tension

30sts x 38 rows to 4 ins on No 11 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-36 ins ("women") and 38-40 ins ("men").
Length at centre back: 21 {23} ins.
Sleeve seam: 18 {18½} ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Purple Heather 4-ply. In this pattern era it was probably pure wool - later they used Purple Heather as a brand for a blended yarn. (So check if you buy vintage on eBay).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Her colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets3.jpg

His colourway - detail:

ZipperedJackets4.jpg

March 2012

Simply Seventies Zip Jackets

ZipperedJackets1286.jpg

Another take on the zipped jacket from a later era. This design is easier than the Norwegian-style jacket in its construction, and uses a heavier (double knitting) weight yarn, which makes for a quicker knit. The patterning is simpler too - knitted straight, that is, without having to worry about incorporating increases and decreases into the design as you knit.

Instructions

Instructions are given for seven sizes - larger sizes indicated in brackets.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 73 [79 : 85 : 89 : 95 : 99 : 105] sts and work 14[14 : 14 : 18 : 18 : 18 : 18] rows in kl, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until work measures
11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, ending on right side. Break off main shade, (A), and join in first contrast, (B).

**
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end. Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * KlB, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * plC, klB repeat from * to last 2 sts, plC, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end. Break off yarn B, join in A.
**
5th row: Using yarn A knit to end.
Work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Break off yarn A, join in B.

Proceed as follows:
Joining in and breaking off colours as required, work from 1st to the 13th row from Chart A, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart A (see end for slightly larger view)

Break off yarn C, join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A kl. purl to last st, k1.
Next row: S1, knit to end. Break off yarn A.

Proceed as follows:
repeat from ** to ** once.
Next row: Knit to end.

Cont in stocking stitch until work measures 16½ [18½ : 20½ : 23 : 23 : 23 : 23] ins, ending on a wrong side.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts at the beginning of the next 4 [4 : 4 : 2 : 2 : 4 : 4] rows.
Cast off 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts at the beginning of the next 2 [2 : 2 : 4 : 4 : 2 : 2] rows.
Castoff rem 23 [23 :23 : 25 : 25 : 25 : 25] sts.

Left Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: S1, kl, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, kl, purl to last st, kl.

Keeping continuity of stocking stitch and garter stitch border throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the begining of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, k1C, * p1B, p1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, k1, purl to last stitch, kl.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge sts in garter stitch, and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th row from Chart B, working size required as indicated. The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart B


Break off yarn C, and join in A.

1st row: Using yarn A k2, purl to last stitch, k1.

2nd row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): S1, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): lncrease once in first stitch, knit to end.
37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes: Break off yarn A.

Shape Neck
1st row: Using yarn B, cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from *to last 3 sts, k1B, k2tog C.
3rd row: K2togB, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2sts, p1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts, knit to end.
4th row: S1, purl to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts.

Right Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 36 [40 : 42 : 44 : 48 : 50 : 52] sts.

1st row: S1, k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1.

repeat 1st and 2nd rows 6 [6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 8 : 8] times increasing once at the beginning of the last row for sizes 26, 30, 32, and 38ins only. 37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and and proceed as follows:-

1st row: S1, knit to end.
2nd row: S1, kl, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Keeping continuity of garter stitch border and stocking stitch throughout, continue until work measures 11½ [13½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins, (the same number of rows up to the same point on the Back must be worked at this point), ending on right side, increasing once at the end of the last row for sizes 28, 34, and 36 ins only. 37 [41 : 43 : 45 : 49 : 51 : 53] sts.

Break off main shade yarn A, and join in first contrast B.
1st row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: * K1B, k1C, repeat from * to last st, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1C, k1B.
Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B knit to end.
Break off yarn B, join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A k2tog, knit to end.
37 [40 : 43 : 45 : 48 : 50 : 53] sts.

For all 7 sizes
6th row: S1, knit to end.
7th row: S1, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Break off yarn A, join in B, and continue as follows:

Keeping the two front edge stitches in garter stitch, joining in and breaking off colours as required, work 1st to 13th rows from Chart C, working size required as indicated.
The odd numbered rows are knit, the even numbered rows are purl.

Chart C


Break off yarn C,and join in A.

Next row: Using yarn A kl, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Shape Neck

Next row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to end.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Cast off 6 sts, knit to last 2 sts, increase once in next stitch, k1.

For all 7 sizes
Break off yarn A.

1st row: Using yarn B, knit to end.
Join in yarn C.
2nd row: K2togC, * k1B, k1C, repeat from *to last stitch, k1B.
3rd row: K1B, * p1C, p1B, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1C, k2togB. Break off yarn C.
4th row: Using yarn B, k2tog, knit to end.
Break off yarn B, and join in A.

5th row:
(sizes 26, 30, 32, 38 ins): Using yarn A, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
(sizes 28, 34, 36 ins): Using yarn A, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

For all 7 sizes
Work 2 [2 : 2 : 3 : 3 : 3 : 3] rows in stocking stitch decreasing once at the neck edge in every row. 25 [28 : 31 : 32 : 35 : 37 : 40] sts.
Continue in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures the same as for the Back, ending after a right side row.

Shape Shoulder:
1st row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
2nd row: S1, knit to end.
3rd row: Cast off 8 [9 : 10 : 11 : 12 : 12 : 13] sts purlwise; purl to the last stitch, k1.
4th row: S1, knit to end.

Cast off remaining 9 [10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 13 : 14] sts purlwise.

Sleeves (both alike):

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on 41 [41 : 41 : 43 : 43 : 43 : 43] sts, and work 16 [16 : 16 : 20 : 20 : 20 : 20] rows in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing once at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th [10th : 8th : 6th : 6th : 6th : 6th] rows until there are 51 [51 : 53 : 63 : 63 : 53 : 53] stitches.
Then increase at each end of every following 6th [8th : 6th : 4th : 4th : 4th : 4th] row until there are 57 [57 : 63 : 73 : 73 : 79 : 79] stitches.
Continue without shaping until work measures 12½[14½ : 15½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½ : 17½] ins. ending after a wrong side row.

Shape Neck

Cast off 7 [7 : 8 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off 8 [8 : 9 : 9 : 9 : 10 : 10] sts at the beginning of the next 2rows.
Cast off remaining 13 [13 : 13 : 19 : 19 : 19 : 19] sts.

The Collar:

Using No 7 (4½mm) needles and yam A cast on 26 [26 : 25 : 29 : 29 : 29 : 29] sts.

1st row: S1, k1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to the last stitch, kl
2nd row: S1, * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
The 1st and’2nd rows form the rib pattern.
Keeping continuity of rib pattern throughout, cast on 8 [8 : 8 : 10 : 10 : 10 : 10] sts, at the beginning of the next 8 rows. 89 [89 : 89 : 109
109 : 109 : 109] sts.
Continue without shaping until side edges measure 4 [4 : 4 : 5 : 5 : 5 : 5] ins. ending on the wrong side.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press each piece lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

Sew up shoulder and sleeve seams. Sew up side seams leaving 6 [6 : 6½ : : 7½ : 8 : 8] ins free to form the armholes.
Sew in sleeves.
With right side of collar to wrong side of work, sew shaped edge of collar evenly all round neck edge.
Sew zip fastener in position.

Press seams.

Materials

7 / 9 / 11 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 x 25g balls in main shade (A) and 25g of each of 2 contrast colours (B and C), of double knitting.

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Open-ended zip of the required length.

Tension

21sts to 4 ins on No 7 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 (Actual Size: 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40)
Length: 16½ / 18½ / 20½ / 23 / 23/ 23 / 23 ins.
Sleeve seam: 12½ / 14½ / 15½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ / 17½ ins.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
s1: slip one stitch knitwise.

Stranding

When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a brushed (fluffy) double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Chart A (larger)

© Christina Coutts 2007

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