Home

Weblog

Knitalong

Pattern of
the Month

On the Needles
(...and Off the Needles)

Stitchcraft

Vintage Patterns

About the
Idle Hands


Category entries for 1930s

Return to main

June 2015

Holiday Jumper!

HolidayJumper3.jpg

Very simple to knit, this open-air jumper, since the pattern is rib, broken by plain and purl rows at intervals. The attractive collar is just two triangular pieces knotted together at the centre front and centre back.

"A nicely casual affair with short sleeves and a scarf collar"

Instructions.

The overall pattern stitch as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit.
2nd row: k1, p1 rib
3rd row: k1, p1 rib
4th row: Purl
5th - 18th row: k1, p1 rib

[Editor's note: The ribbed stitch will have the effect of making the fabric pull in slightly.]

Back

With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 120 stitches. Work 1½ inches in k1, p1 rib, then start pattern as given above.
On the 5th row change to No 10 needles; on the 11th row change to No 9 needles.

After completing first pattern (18 rows), increase once at each end of
every 7th row 9 times, making 138 stitches on the needle.

Continue straight on these sts until you have completed the 6th pattern from commencement (work should measure about 13 inches).

Armhole shapings:
Decrease at the beginning and end of every alternate row for the next 16 rows (that is, 8 decreased each side); then decrease at the beginning and end of every row until 30 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front

With blue wool and No 12 needles, cast on 130 stitches.

Work exactly as for the back up to the armhole (148 stitches on the needles).
Cast off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease at each end of every alternate row 4 times (altogether 10 decreased each side).

Divide for neck-opening:

With right side facing, work 64, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continuing in the pattern on the 64 stitches, decrease at shoulder end on every row and at the same time at the neck end on every 3rd row until all are gone; fasten off.
Rejoin wool at the centre, and work the opposite shoulder side to correspond.

Sleeves

With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 72 stitches.

Work 1¼ inches in k1, p1 rib, then work in pattern, increasing at each end of every 3rd row, and during the first pattern changing to No 10 needles on the 5th row, and to No 9 needles on the 11th row.

When you have completed 2 whole patterns and 4 rows of the 3rd pattern (98 stitches on needle) shape for shoulder as follows:

Work in pattern to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches,
turn.
Continue thus, keeping continuity of pattern, until you have "turned" 8 times each end, each "turn" being 4 stitches before the previous one that side.
Work right to end of last row, knitting across the slipped stitches.

[Editor's note: You are working short rows here to provide shaping. When you slip the stitches and then pick them up again you can get small holes or discontinuities. You can live with these as part of the pattern (in this design they may well be hidden by the collar) or you can read more about short rows and wrapping stitches >>HERE<<.]

Cast off loosely 18 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every alternate row until 24 sts remain.
Cast off.

Work second sleeve in same way.

Collar

The collar is made up of two triangular pieces, knotted at the centre back and centre front.

Using blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 94 stitches.

Work 7 rows in k1, p1, rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row.

Changing to white wool, knit the next row plain, decreasing to 72 sts by knitting together every 4th and 5th stitches.

Continue in stocking stitch for 24 rows, decreasing on every alternate row at the opposite edge to the previous decreasings.
Purl next row.
This is the "ear" that is knotted in front.

Now start the edge that is stitched to the neck.
Cast off 10 stitches at shaped end, then decrease at this edge on every alternate row until 10 sts remain, keeping the other side straight.
Now decrease at same edge on every row until no sts remain.

With blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 108 stitches.
Work 7 rows in k1, p1 rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row; cast off.

Sew this blue strip along the straight edge of the white triangle, mitreing the decreased end carefully with the decreased end of the blue ribbing with which triangle was begun.

Repeat this triangle with colours reversed, and with shapings at opposite ends.

Making Up

Press only very lightly.
Sew up side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, taking care that the ridge rows of pattern meet at each shoulder seam.
Stitch each half of the collar half round the neck of jumper; knot the "ears" front and back, and stitch.

Materials

Beehive Fingering, 2 ply - original uses 4 oz in blue, and 1 oz in white.

One pair each No 12 (2¾mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

36 sts to 4 inches, measured over unstretched rib on No 9 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 32-34 inches; length 18½ inches;
sleeve seam, 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is given as "2 ply" which it probably literally was; however the tension is more like a 3 or 4 ply yarn weight.

I would substitute with a 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2014

Snappy swim-suit

SnappySwimSuit.jpg

What every girl wants: sun.... sand.... and an oversized beach ball.
Continuing the red and white summer theme - the latest in swimwear for the 1930s.
[O - and did I mention? - it's very practical and fits marvellously, (provided you have a 33-34 inch bust), and we can all breathe easily as it has a REGULATION skirt].

"You couldn't find a swim-suit with more snap about it than this one! And it takes all the prizes on the practical side, too . . . . is simple to knit, fits marvellously and has the forethought to choose a stitch that doesn't stretch out of shape (bramble pattern, shown in detail on page 32, broken with bars of rib through which the belt is slotted). The suit is low at the back, and in front the shoulder straps slot through the amusing little striped revers to tie at the base of the neckline; it has, of course, the regulation skirt with brief, almost legless, trunks beneath."

Instructions.

These instructions are given in one size only for a sun-suit with skirt and integrated knickers.

Front

Start with the front of the KNICKERS.

With red wool, cast on 32 stitches. Work in stocking stitch, always knitting into backs of cast-on stitches. After the first row, cast on 3 stitches at the end of every row until there are 116 on the needle.
[Editor's note: I always love these vintage patterns that get straight into 3 figures in the opening paragraph.]

Continue on these for 4 inches, ending with a knit row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row till 104 stitches remain.
Continue on these until the side seam edge measures 9 inches, ending with a purl row. Leave these stitches on spare needle..

Now start at lower edge of SKIRT.

With red wool, cast on 104 stitches. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib, then work in pattern as follows:-

1st row (right side facing): (k1, p1) 3 times; p20, (k1, p1) 4 times; p36, (k1, p1) 4 times, p20, (k1, p1) 3 times.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 3 times;
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 5 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 9 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch) 5 times, (k1, p1) 3 times.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: (k1, p1) 3 times;
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, (k1, p1) 4 times,
(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, (k1, p1) 3 times.

These four rows form pattern.

Repeat until work measures 13 inches from lower edge, ending with the 4th row of pattern.

Now place needle containing the knicker stitches right side towards you, behind needle containing skirt stitches, and knit in pattern, as first row, knitting together 1 stitch from each needle.
Complete this pattern, then work 4 more patterns.
[Editor's note: This means continue with 19 pattern rows ending on a 4th row..]

Keeping the continuity of pattern, shape for waist by decreasing 1 stitch at each end, in side ribbing, in every 4th row, until 2 stitches remain in rib at edges (4 stitches decreased each side).

Work 4 more rows in pattern, then make belt slots as follows:-

Next row: k1, p1, p20. Turn.
Work in pattern on these 22 stitches for 8 rows, then leave on spare needle.
Join in wool and work in k1, p1, rib on the next 8 stitches for 9 rows. Put these stitches on the spare needle, (next to the 22 sts from before).
Work in pattern on the next 36 stitches for 9 rows. Put these stitches on the spare needle.
Work in k1, p1, rib on the next 8 stitches for 9 rows. Put on the spare needle.
Work in pattern on the remaining 22 stitches for 9 rows.
Work the next row in the pattern, working all the stitches on to one needle again.

Continue in pattern, increasing 1stitch at each end in the 2nd and every following 4th row until there are 104 stitches.**
Work in pattern on these for 3 inches, ending with 4th row of pattern.
Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, p1) 5 times, p16, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p16, rib 10.
2nd row: rib 10, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 4 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 4 times, rib 10.
3rd row: rib 14, p12, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p12, rib 14.
4th row: Rib 14, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 3 times, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 3 times, rib 14.
5th row: rib 18, p8, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p8, rib 18.
6th row: rib 18, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) twice, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 8, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) twice, rib 18.
7th row: rib 22, p4, rib 8, p36, rib 8, p4, rib 22.
8th row: rib 22, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 8, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 8, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 22.
9th row: rib 34, p36, rib 34.
10th row: rib 34, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 9 times, rib 34.
11th row: rib 34, p36, rib 34.
12th row: rib 34, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 9 times, rib 34.
13th row: rib 38, p28, rib 38.
14th row: rib 38, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 7 times, rib 38.
15th row: rib 42, p20, rib 42.
16th row: rib 42, (k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog) 5 times, rib 42.
17th row: rib 46, p12, rib 46.
18th row: rib 46, (p3tog, then k1, p1, k1 into next stitch) 3 times, rib 46.
19th row: rib 50, p4, rib 50.
20th row: rib 50, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch, p3tog, rib 50.

Now continue to work all across in rib, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 92 stitches remain.

Next row: k2tog, rib 44. Turn, and work on these stitches, leaving remaining 46 stitches on a spare needle.

Next row: k2tog, rib to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: k2tog, rib to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Rejoin in wool at centre and work the other side to match.

Back

Work exactly as for front to end of waist shaping,
[Editor's note: I have to say I am not clear exactly where this is but I assume it to be after the increases back to 104 stitches which seems to be the number of stitches worked on thereafter in shaping the low back. I have marked this position **.]
then work 4 inches in pattern.

Work right across in rib for 4 rows.

Now begin to shape low back.
Next row: rib 20, cast off 64 (tightly) rib 20.
[Editor's note: You now work the 20 stitches on each side of the cast-off separately.]

Next row: Rib to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Next row: k2tog, rib to end.
Repeat last 2 rows until all stitches are cast off.
Join in wool at centre and work other side to match.

Revers

These are worked in stripes of 2rows red, 2 rows white.
Do not break off wool between stripes.

Start with LEFT REVER.

With red wool, cast on 26 stitches.

1st and 2nd rows: Knit (in red).
3rd row: Join in white wool, knit.
4th row: k2tog, knit to end.
5th row: pick up red, knit to end.
6th row: k2tog, knit to end.
7th row: pick up white, k2, cast off 8, knit to end.
8th row: k2tog, k12, cast on 8, k. 2.

9th row: pick up red, knit to end.
10th row: k2tog, knit to end.
11th row
: pick up white, knit to end.
12th row: k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat last 4 rows until 2 stitches remain.
Cast off.

For RIGHT REVER, work as follows:-

With red wool cast on 26 stitches.

1st and 2nd rows: Knit (in red).
3rd row: Join in white wool, knit.
4th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
5th row: pick up red, knit to end.
6th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
7th row: pick up white, knit to last 10 sts, cast off 8, k2.
8th row: k2, cast on 8, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

9th row: pick up red, knit to end.
10th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
11th row
: pick up white, knit to end.
12th row: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat last 4 rows until 2 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Belt

With white wool cast on 2 stitches. Work in k1, p1, rib, casting on 2 stitches at the end of every alternate row until there are 14 stitches on the needle. Work in rib on these stitches for 45 inches.
Shape end by casting off 2 stitches at beginning of every alternate row.

Shoulder straps (make 2)

With white wool cast on 2 stitches.
Work in k1, p1, rib, casting on 2 stitches at the end of every alternate row until there are 12 stitches on the needle. Continue on these stitches for 24 inches.
Cast off.
Make second piece to match.

To Make Up

Press all pieces well with damp cloth and hot iron.

Sew up side seams and knicker seams.
Work a row of double crochet round leg openings.

Place lower edge of slot in front trimming to top of the 10 cast off stitches at top of front. Sew along lower edge of this slot, then sew straight edge of trimming along edge of the V of front opening. Shaped edge of trimming is not fastened down.

Sew unshaped end of shoulder straps to back, draw through slot at front to required length, then stitch to the top of the slot and knot at bottom of V opening.

Draw belt through slots at waist and tie in bow, at back or front, as preferred.

Materials

13 ozs of "Diana" non-shrink 4ply [pictured costume uses 11ozs of Cavalcade red and 2 ozs white].
[Editor's note: When substituting with modern fibres you may need more than the quantities stated.
1 oz = 28 grams]

One pair No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

To fit 32-33 inch chest.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

p3tog: purl 3 sts together (decrease 2 stitches).

(k1, p1, k1 all into next stitch): increases 2 stitches.

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

The Diana yarn is stated as a 4 ply with a tension consistent with that on a 3mm needle. [Not to be confused with Patons Diana brushed DK sold in the 1980s]

Internet search states a yardage of 209 but no ball weight given. 209 yards for a 1 oz ball would be quite high.

If you make this with a substitute yarn, perhaps a cotton would be nicest though cotton does tend to stretch, despite the reassurance that bramble stitch "doesn't stretch out of shape".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Close-up of bramble stitch and rib.

StitchDetail.jpg

May 2014

Pin-striped jumper

PinStripedJumper.jpg

"Cherry and white pin-stripes are used both up and down and across here. Wear this woolly as above, jumper fashion, or over a blouse."

I much admired this jumper some time ago but never got round to making it myself. However, here it is if you want to try it out. I think it would look nice in red and white as intended or with beige like This Attractive Affair **, knitted in Rowan's Cotton Glacé - but do read all the information about substituting the yarn before you decide how best to tackle this pattern!
In 2008 I made the Engaging Bouclé Top (also from the same 1935 feature). It worked out very well and I wear it quite often even now.

** This Attractive Affair is a 1930s pattern from A Stitch In Time Volume 2 by Susan Crawford and Jane Waller. You can purchase it at Susan's website or from Amazon.

Instructions.

The top and the lower part of the jumper are worked separately, and the ribbed welt added last of all. The pattern is twisted garter stitch, 2 rows red and 2 rows white, alternately.

For twisted garter stitch: knit every row plain, but work always into the backs of the stitches.

Back

Start with lower section, worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 10 stitches. Work as follows in the twisted garter stitch pattern explained above:

1st row: red.
2nd row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [20 sts]
3rd row: Change to white (do not break red wool) work to end.
4th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [30 sts]
5th row: red.
6th row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [40 sts]
7th row: white.
8th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [50 sts]
9th row: red.
10th row: red, cast on 14, work to end. [64 sts]

[Editor's note: This gradual addition of stitches makes waist shaping.]

Now continue in pattern on the 64 stitches on the needle till you have worked 41 red stripes at the casting-on end (the casting on at the beginning of 10th row will be the first of these stripes).

At the beginning of the second row of next red stripe, cast off 14, work to end. [50 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [40 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [30 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [20 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [10 sts]

Cast off remaining 10 stitches in red.

Next work Back Yoke. Hold right side of work towards you.
Using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 114 stitches along the top (wider) edge of lower back, starting at the 7th stripe, and finishing at the 7th stripe from the opposite end.
Working the first row in red, continue in pattern as before, working two rows white, then two rows red, knitting 2 together at each end of the first 8 rows, to shape the armholes.

Continue in pattern on the 98 stitches that remain till 55 red stripes have been completed.

Next row: white.
Next row: white, k32, cast off 3, k32.

Continue in pattern on on the latter 32 stitches for first shoulder.
Then with right side facing, cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row (that is: at the armhole edge) 3 times; cast off 8.

Join in red wool to the remaining 32 stitches at the neck-edge and work the other shoulder to correspond, beginning the casting off with the wrong side of the work facing.

Left front

As you did on the back, start with the lower section, which is worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 64 stitches (centre front edge). Work 2 rows red, 2 rows white, until you have completed the 23rd red stripe.
Cast off 14 at the waist end, work to end and back; cast off 10 at the beginning of the next and every alternate row 4 times; cast off 10.

[Editor's note: This gradual reduction of stitches makes waist shaping.]

For the yoke: with right side of work facing and using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 64 stitches along the top (wider) edge, starting at the 7th stripe.
Work back one row in red, then continuing the stripe sequence, two white, two red as before, k2tog at armhole edge in first 8 rows, then keep both edges straight till 4th white stripe from where stitches were knitted up has been completed.
K2tog at the neck edge in the next and every alternate row till 32 stitches remain.
Cast off 8 stitches from armhole edge 3 times, cast off 8.

Right front

Cast on and work lower section as for left front, but start the casting off at the beginning of the 2nd row in the 23rd red stripe, this bringing the shaping to opposite end of needle.

For the yoke: with the right side of work facing and using No 10 needles and red wool, knit up 64 stitches, finishing at the 7th stripe from under-arm edge. Work the yoke to correspond with left yoke, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and red wool, cast on 90 stitches.
Work in the pattern, straight, to the end of the 14th white stripe, then shape top by decreasing at each end of every row till 30 stitches remain; cast off.

White borders

For back waist ribbing:
Using No 13 needles and white wool, with right side facing, knit up 124 stitches across lower edge, and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib; cast off.

For each of the front waist ribbing:
Knit up 70 stitches across lower edge and rib to match the back.

For each cuff:
Using white wool and No 10 needles, cast on 16 stitches and work in twisted garter-stitch, all in white, until the cuff fits the edge of the sleeve.

The ribbed front border is worked all in one.
Using white wool and No 13 needles, cast on 18 stitches.
Work 8 rows in k1, p1 rib.

In the 9th row, start a buttonhole by working 6, casting off 6, working 6; in the next row finish it by casting on 6 to replace those cast off.

* Rib 16 rows, then make another buttonhole.
Repeat from * 6 times (8 buttonholes in all), then work straight until the border will reach round the neck and to the lower edge.

Making Up

Join side seams and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join each cuff into a ring, stitch round edge of sleeve and turn back.
Sew border neatly all round, overlapping edge of coat by about one stitch.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

Beehive Scotch Fingering 2 ply: 2 ozs in red, 3 ozs in white.

One pair each
No 13 (2¼mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

8 small square red buttons.

Tension

30sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 33 inches; length from top of shoulder: 18 inches; sleeve seam: 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

References on the web give Patons Beehive 2 ply Scotch Fingering a tension of 9 sts to the inch on 2mm needles and a yardage of 230 without a stated ball weight. This would equate more to a 3 ply weight yarn - but Patons did make this yarn in 2, 3 and 4 ply weights, so it is hard to make a judgement.

No clues much from the pattern either since the needle size used is larger than normal for this yarn and the stitches are twisted, making it tighter, and to cap it all - it's knitted sideways. The tension is stated without reference as to whether this is over stocking stitch or over the pattern.

I would substitute with a 3 or 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could instantly move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PinStripedJumper2.jpg

July 2008

Engaging Bouclé Top

EngagingTop1.jpg

Cool summer top from 1935, knitted in bouclé cotton/linen mix, using an eyelet lace pattern for the body, and ribbing for the yoke. I have adapted the yoke slightly, and given a better fit to the sleeves.
"This engaging affair uses a fairly thick wool (quickly knitted!)".
Here I demonstrate its versatility - it could be worn as a smart top with a skirt - or in the garden with denim shorts!

Instructions.

The basic pattern for most of the top is two basic rows:

1st Round: * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from *
2nd Round: Knit if right side facing; purl if wrong side facing.

[Editor's note: If you are knitting in the round, the alternate rounds are knitted; if you are knitting back and front on 2 needles, for example, when you divide at the armholes, then the second row is purl.]

Main body:

The back and front are knitted together in the round.

Using a No 11 (3mm) circular needle, cast on 198 stitches.
Place stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round and at the half way mark (99 sts).
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib.

Change to a No 10 (3¼mmm) needle, and work in pattern as given above, for an inch. Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and continue in pattern for another inch, then to No 8 (4mm) needles and carry on with these until work measures 13 inches from commencement, ending with a plain knit row (2nd round of pattern), but cast off the last 8 sts of the round
[Editor's note: This is about 33 eyelet rows after the rib.]

Shape armhole:

Divide front and back and work each side separately as follows:

Cast off the first 8 sts of the round, then, with one stitch on the right hand needle, commence the pattern row, and work 9 pattern repeats; k1.

Cast off the next 16 sts; then, with one stitch on the right hand needle, commence the pattern row, and work 9 pattern repeats; k1.

You should have 83 sts to work for the back and front.

Back:

Turn the work and purl back across 83sts.

Continue working back and forth across these 83 sts in pattern as set, starting and ending each row, with one plain knitted stitch. Work 2 inches (about 6 more eyelet rows), ending with a purl row.
[Editor's note: This is about 39 eyelet rows after the rib.]

Here shape the neck.

Next Row: k1, * k2tog, k2, wool forward, k1, wool forward, k2, k2tog * ; put the next 63 stitches on to a spare needle; join in a second ball of wool, repeat from * to * once, k1. Continue on the latter 10 stitches till work measures 19½ inches from commencement. Cast off 9 stitches from armhole end.
[Editor's note: Or you can finish on row 1 of the pattern and leave the sts on a holder so you can graft the shoulders together, with a plain grafting stitch.]

Finish off the opposite shoulder to match.

Front:

Rejoin the yarn to other set of 83sts, with wrong side facing, and purl back across 83sts.

Complete the front exactly as you did the back.

Yoke:

Join the shoulders either by stitching or grafting.

Using the No 10 needles with points at both ends, or a circular needle, and with the right side of the work facing, knit up 236 stitches, starting at a shoulder seam as follows:
28sts down the side of the neck, from the shoulder seam, 63 across the front (from the spare needle), 55 up the right side of the neck, 63 across the back of the neck (from the spare needle), 27 up the side of the neck.
If you are using double pointed needles, divide the stitches as follows: 79 on the first and third, and 78 on the second, or if you are using a circular needle, place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round.

1st Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times; p2tog; p1, (k2, p2) fourteen times; k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2) thirteen times, k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2); fourteen times, k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2) seven times.
2nd Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times, p2tog, (k2, p2) fourteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) thirteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) fourteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) seven times.
3rd Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times, k2tog, k1, p2, (k2, p2) thirteen times; k1, k2tog, k2, (p2, k2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, (p2, k2) thirteen times; p2, k1, k2tog, (k2, p2) seven times.
4th Round: (k2, p2) six times; k2, k2tog, p2, (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k2; (p2, k2) twelve times; p2, k2, k2tog, (p2, k2) thirteen times; p2, k2tog; (k2, p2) seven times.
5th Round: (k2, p2) six times; k1, k2tog, p2; (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, p2; (k2, p2) 12 times, k1, k2tog, p2; (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, p2; (k2, p2) six times.
Continue decreasing in this manner until the yoke measures 3 inches from the commencement.

Cast off in pattern.

[Editor's note: It took me a while to work out the "continue decreasing in this manner" so at the end of the instructions I am including my explanation of the yoke decreasing. Rounds 2 through 5 are the four decreasing rows that are repeated.]

Sleeves:

With right side facing and using No 8 needles, pick up and knit 67 sts around the head of the sleeve, (leave the cast off armhole sts).

You will knit backwards and forwards in pattern across these sts, shaping the sleeve by knitting short rows.
Purl 1 row.

1st Row: K2, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
2nd Row: P2tog, purl to the last 2 sts, p2tog. [65sts].
3rd Row: K1 * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * 4 times more; wrap next stitch, by putting yarn forward, slipping the next st on the the right needle, putting the yarn back to the back of the work, and then slipping the slipped st back on to the left hand needle again; turn. [You turn with 19 sts left on the needle].
4th Row: P27, wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 19 sts left on the needle].
5th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * once; wrap next stitch; turn, [You turn with 28 sts left on the needle].
6th Row: P9, wrap next stitch; turn.
7th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * across all sts to last st, k1.
8th Row: Purl.
9th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * 5 times more; wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 10 sts left on the needle].
10th Row: P45, wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 10 sts left on the needle].
11th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * across all sts to last st, k1.
12th Row: Purl.
13th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * to the last st, k1.
14th Row: Purl.

Knit the next 3 rows.
Cast off (from wrong side) knitwise.

Making Up

Sew up sleeve seams under the arms, and sew in all ends.

Sew four buttons up each of the two front corners of yoke.

Materials

5 x 50g balls Stylecraft Sirocco 80% cotton, 20% linen; 98yds/90m per ball.

Numbers 8, 9, 10, and 11 (4, 3¾, 3¼ and 3mm) circular needles.

8 decorative buttons.

Tension

Yarn knits to 20st and 28 rows to four inches on No 8 needles.

One pattern = 1½ in on No 8 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34 inches; length 18 inches.
This version in a slightly thicker yarn fits 36-38 inch bust as shown in photo, and instructions are for a 20 inch length.

A word on the wool.

I wanted to knit this in a bouclé or slub cotton and just could not find what I wanted - there is the fabulous Debbie Bliss Astrakhan, but that is too wintry and thick. Then, in a local haberdashers, I found this Stylecraft yarn which is absolutely what I was looking for and has the benefit of being natural fibre and very good value!

Original: Paton's Super Brindle, which comes (came) in white flecked with colours. This was probably finer than Sirocco - more a straight DK at 22 sts per 4 inches I am guessing.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Additional Instructions for Yoke Decreasing:

These follow the foundation decreasing "Round 1". Instead of writing out every stitch, I have indicated the number of sts between the decreases; "rib" means k2 p2 rib, following the ribs as set out in the row below.

2nd Round: rib 26, p2tog, rib 58, p2tog, rib 54, p2tog, rib 58, p2tog, rib 28.
3rd Round: rib 26, k2tog, rib 56, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 56, k2tog, rib 28.
4th Round: rib 26, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 28.
5th Round: rib 25, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 52, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 27.

6th Round: rib 24, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 50, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 26.
7th Round: rib 24, p2tog, rib 52, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 52, p2tog, rib 26.
8th Round: rib 24, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 26.
9th Round: rib 23, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 48, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 25.

10th Round: rib 22, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 46, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 24.
11th Round: rib 22, k2tog, rib 48, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 48, k2tog, rib 24.
12th Round: rib 22, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 24.
13th Round: rib 21, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 44, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 23.

14th Round: rib 20, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 42, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 22.
15th Round: rib 20, p2tog, rib 44, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 44, p2tog, rib 22.
16th Round: rib 20, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 22.
17th Round: rib 19, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 40, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 21.

18th Round: rib 18, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 38, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 20.
19th Round: rib 18, k2tog, rib 40, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 40, k2tog, rib 20.
20th Round: rib 18, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 20.
21st Round: rib 17, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 36, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 19.

22nd Round: rib 16, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 34, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 18.
23rd Round: rib 16, p2tog, rib 36, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 36, p2tog, rib 18.
24th Round: rib 16, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 18.
25th Round: [Cast off in pattern as you go]; rib 15, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 32, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 17.

EngagingTop2.jpg EngagingTop3.jpg

May 2008

Pretty Summer Woolley

PrettyWoolley1.jpg PrettyWoolley2.jpg PrettyWoolley3.jpg

Summer jacket from 1935 has an unusual design that is quite fun to work. It was given only in one nominal size, but has some flexibility for your own alterations. I simply love the way this has turned out; the bamboo yarn is so soft and comfortable. On finishing, I immediately wore it all the next day.

Diagonal Rib Pattern

Sleeves and lower part of jumper are knitted in a k2, p2 rib, with the rib carried one stitch sideways on each row.

The following 4 rows form the pattern, worked over an odd number of stitches.

Row 1: (k2, p2) repeated to centre stitch; knit centre stitch; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 2: p1, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 5 sts; k2, p1, purl centre stitch, p1, k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last st, p1.
Row 3: (p2, k2) repeated to centre stitch; purl centre stitch; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 4: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 7 sts; p2, k1, purl centre stitch, k1, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.

DiagonalRib.jpg

Cable Pattern

The yoke of the jumper is knitted in cable ribbing, where the stitch between the cables is subsequently dropped to form "ladders".
To work the 8-stitch cables twisting to the right, (cable "back" abbreviated to C4B), slip 4 sts on to a cable needle, and leave at back of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.
To work the 8-stitch cables twisting to the left, (cable "front" abbreviated to C4F), slip 4 sts on to a cable needle, and leave at front of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.

When the sts are dropped, pull them back to where you started the cables, above the diagonal rib, and secure the stitch by running a thread through and stitching on the inside.
[Editor's note: Be extra careful with the bamboo yarn; it is very slippery, the ladders run very easily, and the yarn splits, making it the devil to pick up a stitch dropped accidentally.]

Back

Using No. 12 needles and main colour (blue), cast on 104 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, (approximately 25 rows), increasing one stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No. 9 needles and purl one row. [105 sts]

Work the 4-row pattern 10 times, then the first two rows again, (42 rows).

[Editor's note: The origonal instructions were to work the 4-row pattern 14 times as it was intended for a thinner yarn. For my version, in the bamboo yarn, I worked 16 rows fewer up to the start of the cables, as well as 16 rows fewer in the armhole section (see notes below) which brought the welt up to sit on my hips as shown in the photo.]

Row 43: (p2, k2) repeated to centre stitch; knit centre stitch; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row. (ie pattern row 3 with 5 sts knitted in the middle).
Row 44: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 7 sts; p7 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1. (ie pattern row 4 with 5 sts knitted in the middle).
Row 45: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 9 sts; k9 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 46: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 11 sts; p11 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 47: p2, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 13 sts; k13 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 48: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 15 sts; p15 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 49: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 17 sts; k17 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 50: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 19 sts; p19 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 51: p2, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 21 sts; k21 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 52: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 23 sts; p23 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 53: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 25 sts; k25 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 54: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 27 sts; p27 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.

Now start the striped pattern:

Row 55: K38 sts in pattern as set in blue; join on white: k6, cable C4B, k1, cable C4F, k6; join on another ball of blue and finish row in pattern.
Row 56: Pattern 37 sts blue; purl 31 white; pattern k37 sts blue.
Row 57: Pattern 36 sts blue; knit 33 white; pattern 36 sts blue.

Continue as on last 2 rows. increasing number of white stitches for 5 more rows (i.e.. finally 31 blue; 43 white; 31 blue).

Row 63: Work in blue right across row: 30 sts in pattern; k5, (C4B, k1) twice, (C4F, k1) twice, k4; 30 sts in pattern.
Row 64: Pattern 29 sts; p47; pattern 29 sts.

Continue thus for 6 more rows in blue, still taking 2 more into stocking stitch in each row (23 pattern sts on each side).

Row 71: Pattern 22 sts blue; join on white: k4, (C4B, k1) 3 times, (C4F, k1) 3 times, k3; join on blue pattern 22 sts.
Row 72: Pattern 21 sts blue; purl 33 white; pattern 21 sts blue.

Continue thus for 6 more rows.

Row 79: Work in blue right across row: 14 sts in pattern; k3, (C4B, k1) 4 times, (C4F, k1) 4 times, k2; 14 sts in pattern.
Row 80: Pattern 13 sts; p79; pattern 13 sts.

Shape armhole:
Rows 81 & 82: Still taking one stitch more at each side of centre piece, cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Rows 83: k2tog at beginning and end of row.
Row 84-86: Work 3 rows in pattern without decreasing.
**
Row 87: Change to white: k4, (C4B, k1) 5 times, (C4F, k1) 5 times, k3.
Continue in stocking stitch for 7 rows.

Repeat from ** with alternate colours 4 times, then repeat row 87 row in blue.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the pattern 6 times here. I worked a shorter arm hole here which worked out for my own measurements - see section on sizing. You can work the armhole to a suitable length according to your size and your yarn; however, if you do make alterations, remember to work the same length on the fronts, and prepare to do some compensation on the sleeve decreasing.]

Work 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Row 131: Cast off 2, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; knit to end.
Row 132: Cast off 2 purlwise, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; purl to end.
Row 133: Cast off 7, drop 1 st, cast off 1 more very loosely as before; knit to end.
Row 134: As 149th row but purl.
Now cast off remaining sts, dropping stitches between cables.
[Editor's note: You may want to catch the all the dropped sts with safety pins at this point in the construction, until you are ready to sew up and secure the sts in the right place.]

Ladders.jpg

Right Front

Using No. 12 needles and main colour (blue), cast on 66 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, (approximately 30 rows), increasing one stitch at the end of the last row. [67 sts].
Change to No. 9 needles and purl one row.

Row 1: k15; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 2: p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last 14 sts; k1, p13..
Row 3: k. 13, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 4: k1; (p2, k2) repeated to last 14 sts; p14.
Row 5: k4; cable C4F; k3; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 6: p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last 14 sts; k1, p13.
Row 7: k. 13, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 8: k1; (p2, k2) repeated to last 14 sts; p14.

Repeat these 8 rows 4 times.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the pattern 6 times here. I worked a shorter length here to match the back]

Row 41: k15; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 42: As 2nd but purl last 16 stitches.
Row 43: k17; p2, (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 44: As 4th but purl last 18 stitches.
Row 45: k4; cable C4F; k7; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 46: As 2nd but purl last 20 stitches.
Row 47: k. 21; p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 48: As 4th but purl last 22 stitches.
Row 49: k.23; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 50: As 2nd but purl last 24 stitches.
Row 51: k25; p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 52: As 4th but purl last 26 stitches.
Row 53: Join in white: k4; cable C4F; k1; cable C4F; k6. Join in blue: (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 54: As 2nd. ending k. 2. Purl last 28 stitches in white.
Continue for 6 rows in pattern, working 1 more stitch in white on each row.

Row 61: All blue. K4, (C4F, k1) twice, C4F, k5; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue for 7 more rows as before, working 1 more stitch into stocking-stitch border in front on each row.

Row 69: Join in white: k4; (C4F, k1) 4 times, k3. Join in blue: (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue for 7 more rows as before.

Row 77: All blue. K4, (C4F, k1) 5 times, k2; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue as before for 4 more rows.

Shape armhole:
Row 82: Cast off 5, k1, p2. k2, purl to end.
Row 83: Knit to within 5 from end, p2, k1, k2tog.
Row 84: K2tog, k1, purl to end.

Row 85: Join on white: k4; (C4F, k1) 5 times; k9, k2tog.
Row 86: P2 tog, purl to end. [58 sts]
Row 87: Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [57 sts]
Row 88: P2 tog, purl to end. [56 sts]
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Row 93: All blue. K4; (C4F, k1) 5 times; k3. [52 sts]
Work 7 rows stocking stitch.

Work 2 more cable stripes alternately in white and blue, working only 3 rows in stocking stitch after the cable row on the second blue stripe.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the stripes 4 times here, working 3 rows on the 4th stripe. I worked a shorter armhole here to compensate for the heavier yarn weight as on the back - see sections on wool and sizing.]

Row 113: Cast off 2, break wool and pull through last stitch; drop 1. Join on again.
[Editor's note: You have effectively cast off 3 and dropped one stitch - so you are 4 sts fewer on the needle].
Continue pattern. decreasing 1 stitch every row at neck-edge, not forgetting to drop stitches between cable, until 33 stitches are left.
[Editor's note: You don't count the dropped sts as decreases]
Work 3 straight rows (i.e. you have done 4 rows of the 2nd blue cable after armhole decreasings).
[Editor's note: With the original pattern on thinner yarn you would have worked the 4th blue cable after the armhole decreasings]
Cast off shoulder to match back:
Row 129: Work 1 row straight to the armhole edge.
Row 130: Cast off 2 purlwise, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; purl to end.
Row 131: Knit
Row 132: Cast off 7 purlwise, drop 1 st, cast off 1 more very loosely as before; purl to end.
Row 133: Cast off remaining sts, dropping stitches between cables.

Left Front

Cast on and work in ribbing as for right front; change to No. 9 needles and purl one row on 67 sts.

Row 1: k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 2: p13, k1; (p2, k2) repeat to last st, p1.
Row 3: p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 4: p13, p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 5: k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last 13 sts, k1, cable C4B, k4.
Row 6: p13, k1; (p2, k2) repeat to last st, p1.
Row 7: p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 8: p13, p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.

Continue with these rows in pattern as set, reversing the shapings and making the two fronts correspond.

Sleeves (work 2 alike).

Cast on 62 stitches on No.12 needles.
Rib 10 rows, k1, p1, increasing once at end of last row.
Purl 1row on No.9 needles.[63 sts]
Work in pattern for 4 rows.

Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Work 7 rows pattern.
Keep continuity of pattern and repeat last 8 rows 7 times.
Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Work 2 more rows. [81 sts]

Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every row for 5 rows, then on every alternate row until 31 sts remain.
Decrease at each end of every row until 15 sts remain; cast off remaining 15 sts.

[Editor's note: The instructions above are as I worked the sleeve but are completely different fom the original. Below are the original instructions in case you are working in the fine fingering weight wool.]

Here are the original instructions for the 3 ply weight yarn:
Cast on 80 stitches on No.12 needles.
Rib 10 rows, k1, p1, increasing once at end of last row.
Purl 1 row on No. 9 needles.

Work 7 rows in pattern.
Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Keep continuity of pattern and repeat last 8 rows 4 times.
Work 4 more rows.
Decrease once at each end of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

[My sleeve length is to the elbow. The original sleeve was made much shorter and a different shape.]

Collar

On No. 12 needles, pick up 104 stitches round neck: 33 sts from each front and side neck, and 38 sts across the back.
Work in k1, p1, ribbing for 10 rows, change to No. 9 needles and rib 10 more rows, (approximaterly 2½ inches).
Cast off loosely in rib, using a larger sized needle if necessary, (for example No. 8).
[Editor's note: Original instructions picked up 170 sts for the collar (50 each side, 70 across back).]

Making Up

Drop stitches between cables. Catch these stitches (and sew in) on the wrong side to prevent running into the diagonally ribbed pattern.
Press with damp cloth and hot iron.
Match cables at shoulder seams and darn ends across holes formed.
Join side seams and sew in sleeves.
Work 4 rows of double crochet down left front (work rather tightly and then stretch under iron, to prevent sagging in wear).
[Editor's note: I picked up two thirds of the row ends across the welt (approximately 20dc) and every alternate row end up the rest of the front (approximately 57dc) . I worked the crochet very loosely up the main body of the band, and more tightly when working the part across the side of the welt.
You have some flexibility here to increase the bust size slightly by working additional rows.]

Sew on 7 white buttons down front.
Work 3 rows of double crochet down right front, then a 4th row with loops of 8 chain opposite buttons.
[Editor's note: My loops were 8 chain positioned on the 11th dc with 10 dc between them. To work the loops: (1dc into next dc; chain 8; 1 slip st into same dc; 10 dc into next 10 dc) repeat. However it's a good idea to sew on the buttons evenly first, and work the loops to match the positions.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 6oz of main and 1oz white in "3 ply".
Example shown is knitted in 12 x 50g balls Rowan Bamboo Soft in main shade (colour: Cambria 109) and 2 x 50g balls in white.

One pair each of numbers 12 (2¾mm) and 9 (3¾mm) needles. One cable needle. One No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

Seven buttons, approximately 1 inch. The original shows rather larger buttons as part of the styling.

Tension

Original states 32st to an inch over diagonal rib on No 9 needles.

Size matters

No size given originally - knitted example measured 36-38 inches. My version is knitted with fewer rows than stated in the original pattern (my deviations noted in red); this is - as intended - to keep the cardigan waist length like the original, but with longer sleeves. The result is a good fit for me (a chubby UK size 12), shaped to be fitted around the bust, under the arms, and into the waist, but with a good degree of ease.

See the section on sizing.

A word on the wool.

Rowan Bamboo Soft, is a light weight DK which knits to a tension of 25sts and 30 rows to 4 inches; 102m/112yds to 50g.
This is a dense yarn, and thicker than the vintage yarn, so requires a lot more yarn than specified in the original pattern.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Sizing and yarn choices

The original pattern seems to be intended as a neat fitting jacket in a fine yarn, knitted on larger needles.

I calculated the chest size (one size only given) as working out to only 28 inches, which even for the era seemed a bit small, so I felt confident in moving to a thicker yarn, based on the needle size. What I had failed to take into account, is that when you drop the stitches between the cable, the chest size expands a lot. Purely guessing I would say the original size using fine yarn was intended for a 33 to 35 inch bust.

The design of the cables and ladders, means that the cardigan is in fact self-shaping. In my version, the measurement for the back just above the welt is about 16 inches, and this increases to about 18 inches by the time you get to armholes. This gives you a nominal 36-38 inch bust size as the fronts are slightly larger and you can choose, within limits, to have fewer or more rows of crochet to form the front closure bands.

To increase the length of the cardigan, you can follow the areas marked in red where I have altered the rows. Preferably stick with adding or subtracting in chunks of 8 for simplicity.

To make tweaks to the bust size you can add in crochet rows at the front. To make a significant alteration is slightly more difficult; in order to keep the symmetry of the cables you really need to add in two cables on the back and one each on the front, which would make a difference of 36 sts, and in the yarn I used this would be about 5½ inches.
But please note: This cardigan fits me well, and still looks as shown in the pictures; however the bamboo yarn has eased considerably with wear - I now think I could easily have removed an even 4 cable patterns (5½ inches) and still have a nicely fitting cardigan.

Finally, you can of course make overall size changes by using substitute yarns of other weights. This design is pretty tolerant of such changes, as I discovered, but you risk ending up with a different look - anything from the tiny figure-hugging waist length jacket of the original to a longer altogether looser cardigan style. If you are up to it, you can of course check your tension and work it all out beforehand, but remember the effect of the ladders is to much increase the finished size above that implied by the tension.

Here is a popup of the original picture for comparison with my version:


© Christina Coutts 2007

Helpful Stuff

1930s entries:

Other Categories

Pattern Archive

Yarn Links

Fabric etc

Stuff to do

  • Little rabbits
  • Bayerische sock
  • V&A 1940s Patterns
  • Darlek Toy
  • Cashmere Cowl
  • Monkey Socks
  • Necktie Bag
  • Posh Gloves
  • Criss-cross coasters
  • Yesterknits
    (free patterns)