Instructions.
3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).
Jumper Back
Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 108 (114,
120) stitches and work 2½ inches in
k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work in twisted stocking stitch
thus:
1st Row: knit across all stitches
through back loop (ktbl).
2nd Row: purl.
These 2 rows form twisted stocking stitch ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch until work measures 16 inches.
Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 5 (6, 7)
stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 80 (84,
88) stitches remain ★★.
Continue straight until work measures 23 (23½,
24) inches.
Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 6 (7,
8) stitches at the beginning of the following
2 rows.
Leave the remaining 36 (38, 40)
stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the back neck.
Jumper Front
Work as for the back up to ★★.
Continue straight until work measures 21 (21½,
22) inches, ending with a purl row.
Neck Shaping:
Next Row: ktbl 29 (30,
31) stitches; turn.
Continue on these stitches only.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows.
Work 8 rows straight.
Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate
row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8)
stitches.
With right side facing, slip the centre 22 (24,
26) stitches on to a stitch-holder.
Complete the other side of the neck to match.
Jumper Sleeves
Using No 11 needles, cast on 44 (46,
48) stitches.
Work as for the back to ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of
the next and every following 6th row until there are 72 (78,
84) stitches
Continue straight until work measures 17 inches.
To shape the top cast off 5 (6,
7) stitches at the beginning of the next
2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 stitches
remain; then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 10 rows.
Cast off.
Jumper Polo Collar
Join the right shoulder.
With right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 18 stitches
down the left side of the neck, ktbl the stitches from stitch-holder,
pick up and knit 18 stitches up the right side of the neck, ktbl
the stitches from the back neck. [94 (98,
102) sts]
Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 9 needles and rib a further 3½ inches.
Cast off loosely ribwise.
Sleeveless Cardigan Back
Using No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 115 (123,
131) stitches.
Moss Stitch row: k1, (p1, k1) to
end.
Editors note: Moss
stitch - or "seed stitch" - is worked by alternating knit and
purl stitches on every row - like ribbing. However, unlike ribbing, you
do not align the knit and purl stitches vertically above each other but
do the exact opposite; so, as you view the stitches, you will knit a stitch
showing a purl "bump" from the previous row, and purl into a
knit stitch.
"Double moss stitch" (not seen in this pattern) is usually where
you do 2 rows of apparent rib with the stitches aligned vertically, then
for the next two "rib" rows you misalign them with the previous
two rows - and so on.
The row given above works up into moss stitch when repeated on an odd
number of stitches.
Repeat the Moss Stitch row row 9 times.
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:
1st Row: with main shade M, k1, (sl1
purlwise, k3) to the last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, k1.
2nd Row: with M, p1, (sl1 purlwise,
p3) to last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p1.
3rd Row: join in first contrast (O),
(sl1 purlwise, k3) to end.
4th Row: with O, p3, (sl1 purlwise,
p3) to end.
5th and 6th Rows: with 2nd contrast
(R) work as 1st and 2nd rows.
7th and 8th Rows: with 3rd contrast
(G) work as 3rd and 4th rows.
These 8 rows form the pattern.
Pattern until work measures 21 inches.
Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 7 (8, 9)
stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 83 (87,
91) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 29½ (30,
30½) inches.
Shoulder Shaping:
Work as for the back of the sweater.
Leave the remaining 39 (41, 43)
stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Editors note: Although the original pattern explicitly states to leave
these stitches, I do not see why you would not cast them off at this point
- given that you are not required to pick them up again at any point later
on, and the edging band is designed to be sewn all around the fronts and
back neck.
Sleeveless Cardigan Right Front
Using No. 11 needles and M cast on 59 (63,
67) stitches.
Work as for the back up to the armhole shaping, ending with a right side
row.
Armhole and Front Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 7 (8,
9) stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches,
p2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 (10,
11) rows, at the
same time, decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th
row; then continue shaping front edge only, until 22 (23,
24) stitches remain.
Work 5 rows.
Shoulder Shaping :
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate
row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8)
stitches
Sleeveless Cardigan Left Front
Work as for the right front, reversing shapings.
Sleeveless Cardigan Bands
Join shoulders.
Using No 11 needles and main shade cast on 9 stitches.
Work 2 inches in moss stitch.
Next Row (make buttonhole): moss
stitch 3, cast off 3, moss stitch 3.
Next Row: moss stitch 3, cast on 3,
moss stitch 3.
Continue in moss stitch, making further buttonholes 2½ inches apart
(measure from base of previous buttonhole) until there are 8 in all.
Continue until band, when slightly stretched, fits all around both fronts
and across back neck.
Cast off.
Work the armbands in the same way, omitting the buttonholes.
Skirt (Back and Front Alike)
Using No 11 needles and colour M, cast on 147 (155,
163) stitches.
Work 10 rows in moss stitch.
Change to No 8 needles and working in pattern as for the sleeveless cardigan,
decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row until 101 (109,
117 ) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 20 (20½,
21) inches.
Change to No 11 needles, and using M, work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning
the 2nd row with "p1".
Cast off loosely ribwise.
Making Up
Press or block work according to yarn type.
Sweater:
Join the left shoulder and polo collar seams.
Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Sleeveless Cardigan:
Join the side seams.
Sew on the front band.
Join the cast-on and cast-off edges of the armbands.
Sew on the armbands with the seam placed at the underarms.
Sew on the buttons.
Skirt:
Join the side seams.
Join the elastic in a ring and attach to the wrong side of the waist with
a herringbone casing.
Press seams.
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Materials
Double Knitting yarn, 1 oz balls:
Jumper:
16 (17, 18)
Sleeveless cardigan:
5 (5, 6)
main colour
3 (3, 3)
in each of 3 contrasting colours
Skirt:
3 (3, 3)
main colour
3 (3, 3)
in each of 3 contrasting colours
One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 9 (3¾mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.
8 buttons for cardigan.
Waist-length elastic for skirt
Tension
24 sts to 4 inches measured over twisted stocking stitch on No 9 (3¾mm)
needles.
24 sts x 40 rows measured over Pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.
Size matters
To fit chest 34, (36, 38)
inches; hips 36 (38, 40)
inches.
Sleeveless cardigan length: 29½ (30,
30½) inches.
Skirt length:
21 (21½, 22)
inches.
Abbreviations:
k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit the stitch through the back loop (thus twisting the
stitch)
k2tog/p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.
M - Gold
O - Orange
R - Red
G - Green
A Word on the Wool
The original yarn was a pure wool double knitting crepe.
The later yarn sold in 50g balls states a yardage of 123yds/112m per
50g.
Colours illustrated:
Sun Gold,
Mexican Orange,
Love Apple Red,
Woodland Green.
Suggested other combinations:
Ivory, Peach,
Roman Pink, and
Medoc - or -
White, Peacock.
Club Navy, and
Aubretia.
Disclaimer
(well...almost))
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced,
in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please
and I will try and assist.
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