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Archive entry for October 2013

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October 2013

Fancy Rib Jacket

FancyRibJacket.jpg

This is a lovely 1950s Autumn jacket which is defined as "chunky" though this means "not fine" in modern parlance, as the wool weight is a pretty standard double knitting.
I love this style and always meant to make for myself but have not yet done so - hence it is untested, and the original instructions are available in only one size. The instructions are not intended for a beginner - you need to keep your eye on right and wrong sides, and preserving the button band stitches - but having said that, I think it is fairly clearly explained.

Instructions.

Fancy rib pattern worked as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

These 2 rows form pattern.

Back

With No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 90 stitches loosely and work 4 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge all along

[Editor's note: Though not clear in the photo, it seems the back of the jacket is knitted plain up to the armholes, whereas the fronts have the pattern over the pockets as well.]

Next row: Purl, increasing 3 sts, evenly across the row [93 sts]

Work straight in stocking stitch until back measures 7 inches from lower edge.

With right side facing continue in stocking-stitch, shaping waist as follows:
Next row: k2tog, k26, k2tog, k29; sl1, k1, psso; k26; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: k2tog, k25, k2tog, k27; sl1, k1, psso; k25; k2tog. [81 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing continue shaping as follows:
Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k25; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k29; increase 1 as before; k25; increase in last stitch [85 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k26; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k31; increase 1 as before; k26; increase in last stitch [89 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k27; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k33; increase 1 as before; k27; increase in last stitch [93 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k28; increase 1 by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it; k35; increase 1 as before; k28; increase in last stitch [97 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch [99 sts]
Work straight until back measures 15 inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and the following 3 alternate rows. [79 sts]

Next row (wrong side facing): P9; * purl twice in next stitch, p6; repeat from * to end [89 sts]

Next row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. [147 sts]

With wrong side facing. change to fancy rib pattern, starting with 1st pattern row and work straight until back measure 23½ inches down centre ending with 1st pattern row [89 sts]
With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib over all sts, and shape shoulders by casting off 9 sts at beginning of next 6 rows.
Cast off remaining 35 stitches.

Pocket Linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 26 sts and work 6 inches in stocking stitch ending with a knit row.
Leave these sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Make second pocket in the same way.

Left Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): purl to last 23 sts; k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Change to pattern with button border in stocking stitch and remainder in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): p23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 7 inches, ending with 1st pattern row [67 sts]
With right side facing, change to stocking stitch, inserting pocket as follows:

Next row: K5; increase 1, k4, cast off 26, k20 sl1 purlways, k11.

Next row: P32, pur1 across one set of 26 pocket stitches in place of those cast off; p10 [68 sts]


With right side facing, continue in stocking stitch slipping the centre stitch in border on right side rows throughout, and shape for waist as follows:

Next row: K2tog, k27. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k26. k2tog, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: K2tog, k25. k2tog, knit to end. [62 sts]
Work 9 rows straight.

With right side facing, continue shaping as follows:

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 25, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 26, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 27, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, k 28, increase 1, knit to end.
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: Increase in 1st stitch, knit to end [71 sts]

Work straight until front measures same as back at side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 4 alternate rows [61 sts]

Next row: Purl.

Next row: * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11. [85 sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in fancy rib pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): P23; * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2
2nd row (right side facing): * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Repeat these 2 rows until front measures 20 inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

Shape neck as follows:

Next row: * p2, wool round needle, p1, wool round needle; repeat from * to last 25 sts; p2tog, k11, sl1 purlways, k11.

Continue decreasing thus inside the 23 border sts on the following 10 alternate rows. Pattern back (1st pattern row). [50sts]

Work a few rows straight in pattern, until back measures same as front ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, continue in p2/k1 rib keeping stocking-stitch border as before, and shape shoulder by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows - armhole edge.

Leave remaining 23 sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front

With No 8 needles, cast on 95sts and work as follows:

Next row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11, purl to end.

Change to pattern as follows (button border in stocking stitch as before):

1st row (wrong side facing): * k2, p3tog; repeat from * to last 25sts; k2, p23.
2nd row (right side facing): K11, sl1 purlways, k11; * p2, wrn, p1, wrn; repeat from * to last 2sts; p2.

Repeat these 2 rows for 1½ inches, ending with 1st pattern row.

With right side facing, make double buttonhole in next 2 rows as follows: k4, cast off 3, k4, sl1, k4, cast off 3, k4, work to end and back, casting on 3 sts over those cast off

Finish as for left front reversing all shapings, making another 5 double buttonholes as above at 3-inch intervals.

Your pocket row will read:
k11, sl1, k20, cast off 26, k4, increase 1, k5.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles, cast on 48 sts loosely and work 5 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

With right side facing, change to No 8 needles and continue in stocking-stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at end of 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 78 sts.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 19½ inches from start, (or required length).

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 40 sts remain; then k2tog at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press stocking-stitch parts only under a damp cloth.

Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Turn under 2½ inches round each sleeve and slip-hem loosely on wrong side.
Catch down pocket linings to main work.

Now with No 8 needles, k23 border sts. from spare needle at top of right front and work straight on these sts, slipping centre stitch as before until border fits to centre back of neck. Cast off.
Work left front 23 border sts in the same way; join borders at centre back and sew to neck edge.
Turn under half the border sts up to the slipped stitch all round and slip-hem on wrong side.

Oversew round double buttonholes.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

20 ozs Patons Moorland Double Knitting in Cinnamon.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) "Beehive" needles.

6 buttons.

Tension

This rib pattern is difficult to measure but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size to fit bust: 35-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23½ ins; sleeve seam 17 ins.

My only suggestion about adapting the size is to increase the yarn weight and needle size. Always knit a swatch and calculate the potential size increase.

Abbreviations

Increase 1: by picking up horizontal thread before next stitch and knitting into back of it, according to pattern instructions - or - Increase in next stitch: by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
p3tog: (decrease) purl 3 sts together.

wrn: wool round needle

sl1: slip one stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A word on the wool.

Patons Moorland is a double knitting weight yarn which knitted to a fairly standard DK tension.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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