Fringed Yoke
Knitted in a light weight yarn and originally designed in the 1950s to wear under or over a sweater with a lower neckline. The original is a "fringed cable yoke" (in case you want to show it off over the sweater) but I have omitted the fringing; I wear it as a convenient alternative to a scarf. The yarn I used is more a 4ply than a 3ply weight so my version is very slightly bulkier and longer than the original.
Instructions.Cables are worked as follows: Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable
needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle. Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece. Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows: 1st row (right side facing): P4,
* k8, p8; repeat from *
to last 12 sts, k8, p4. Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more. 9th row: P4, *
cable8, p8; repeat from * to last
12 sts, cable8, p4. Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern. 24th row (decrease row): K4, *
p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to
last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts] Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern. 30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts] Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern. 33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4. Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before. Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end. Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end. Work a further 4 rows straight. Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4. Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib. Cast off. To work the buttonholes: Optional fringing: To Make UpSew in all ends. |
MaterialsOriginal materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. ** A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles. TensionOriginal yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles. Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles. Size mattersOne size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe. **A word on the wool.I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension. CrochetDouble crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar. Disclaimer
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